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Home Explore Winestate Magazine November December 2015

Winestate Magazine November December 2015

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PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR: Australia 7 issues (1yr) $A69 (includes $6.27 GST) take out a subscription and save! 14 issues (2yrs) $A128 (includes $11.64 GST) Price include GST, postage and handling. New Zealand Binders Price includes Airmail. Australian residents only SUBSCRIBE TO Your attractive binder Please mark X one option: easily holds 7 issues - handy 7 issues (1 year) $A79 for quick reference! OUR COMPLETE 14 issues (2 years) $A150 Please mark X one option: PACKAGE Asia, Pacific 1 Binder $A19.80 Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: 2 Binders $A33 7 issues (1 year) $A120 This includes hard-copy and digital 3 Binders $A49.50 Elsewhere (includes GST) versions plus full on-line access to Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: Winestate’s web site and reviews. 7 issues (1 year) $A130 Prices available for overseas on application. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au Mr / Mrs / Miss Address Suburb State Country THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually Post Code Phone ( ) E-mail AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ Your subscription will start from the next issue. OVER 500 TASTED Featuring Bird in Hand Penfolds Grange Paul Jaboulet Henschke Hill of Grace I enclose my cheque for $ Torbreck The Laird Gralyn Estate payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: JAPAN’S Emerging Mastercard Visa Wine Culture PINOT CENTRAL SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 5 World's greatest shiraz ChalleNge X seMilloN riVer regioNs Yarra YalleY & soUtherN ViCtoria otago, Nz Otago’s claim to fame September/October 2015 Vol 38 Issue 5 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 Life in the US $17.99 GBP £10.95 Name on card: EUR 9.95 China RMB100 spirit world HKD $120 CHF 15.00 The evolution of Cognac Signature Expires / 271_CoverFRONT216x297.indd 1 plus Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac Semillon & Blends 23/07/2015 3:06:55 PM Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria River Regions Otago (NZ) PRINT POST APPROVEd 100003663 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE GIFT SUBSCRIPTION State Country gift subscription? Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 Why not give a Recipient’s Name Address Suburb ( ) Phone Post Code Call us today on Please send a gift card to Me Recipient +61 8 8357 9277 or visit Also fill in your details in the section above. www.winestate.com.au November/December 2015 WINES TATE 101 Subscription form FPC ND15.indd 1 7/09/2015 2:19:21 PM

tra v el briefs WINSOR DOBBIN HAWKE'S BAY can be paired with a matching wine. Consider dishes like hoki ceviche marinated in coconut cream and fresh lime, spiced with Tabasco; panko-crumbed leg of lamb with creamed red lentils and cucumber or honey and lime anglaise, Anzac and coconut crumble, chocolate soil and butterscotch snow. The mood is beach bungalow casual and the prices absurdly reasonable for five courses. Pacifica Restaurant, 209 Marine Parade, Napier is open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner from 6pm; phone +64 6 833 6335. www. pacificarestaurant.co.nz. BOARDWALK EMPIRE THE NEW East Pier Hotel is located on HOT SPOT CIDER STAKES ITS CLAIM the hugely popular boardwalk in Napier’s seaside suburb of Ahuriri, a former port NEW Napier hot spot Emporium Eatery & HAWKE’S Bay has long had a reputation for area. The hotel has 21 boutique rooms, Bar is part bar, part club and part restaurant. producing fine red wines, but cider is also with a mixture of studios, family rooms Located in the Art Deco Masonic Hotel, staking a claim for attention. Edgebrook and one-bedroom suites, all of which offer Emporium puts an equal focus on food, Cider takes its name from a 75-year-old ocean views from both the rooms and wine and fun. There is a menu with dishes family orchard in the heart of the Hawke’s private patios. Each room is equipped designed for sharing and what is billed Bay apple-growing district. For years, with super king beds, 60-channel Sky TV, as “the most extensive beverage list Hawke’s Bay has been known as the “fruit air conditioning, free wifi, kitchenette and around”. Food is served from 11am until bowl of New Zealand”. The region has high all other mod cons. Downstairs there is an late. Small plates may include the likes sunshine hours, cool winters and fertile award-winning restaurant and bar that is of smoked ham hock, tomato and barley soils, and these factors combine to produce open from 6.30am each day until late. There soup with crusty garlic bread; prawn and luscious apples with intense flavour. Head to also is full room service. East Pier was built lemongrass laksa with Asian greens and the Hastings Farmers Market on Kenilworth on the site of an old fish factory in 1992 by its noodles or Penang chicken curry, lime leaf Rd, Waikoko Gardens, Hastings, on present owners to be a top quality waterfront arancini, crispy shallots and pickled chilli. Sundays from 8.30am-12.30pm to taste the bar and brasserie and it established itself The larger plates created by chef Damon local Edgebrook cider, buy it from the local as the area’s most popular venue. The McGinniss range from locally caught fish i-SITE or visit www.edgebrookcider.co.nz. hotel opened in May and rooms start from and chips, beer battered with tartare sauce around $150 per night. There are breakfast, lunch and dinner menus available in the and spring salad to Thai beef noodle salad FOCUS ON FRESHNESS brasserie-style restaurant. East Pier Hotel, with chilli, lime dressing, crunchy peanuts A MEAL at Pacifica in Napier is sure to 50 Nelson Quay, Ahuriri, Napier; phone and dried shrimp. Vegetarians might opt feature something intriguing on the menu +64 6 834 0035. www.eastpierhotel.co.nz. for cauliflower risotto with fennel-roasted - maybe some sea urchin, or perhaps beets, smoked mushroom and sheep’s milk asparagus tortellinis. Chef Jeremy Rameka feta. There are also pizzas available from serves French-accented Pacific fusion food HOMEGROWN FARE a wood-fired oven and wines by the glass in a casual ambience, with his focus on TWO-TIME New Zealand chef of the year feature names including Trinity Hill, Mount freshness and flavour. Guests pay $50 per Francky Godinho is the man behind the pans Difficulty and Te Whare Ra. Emporium is head for a choice between two five-course at St Georges Restaurant, a fine dining icon on the corner of Tennyson St and Marine degustations - one seafood focused. The with a French provincial feel in the Hawke’s Parade, Napier; phone +64 06 835 0013. menu can change daily depending on what Bay region. Godinho boasts that the vast www.emporiumbar.co.nz. ingredients are available and each course majority of produce used is grown, nurtured, 102 WINES TATE November/December 2015

tra v el briefs hand-picked by himself and his team, and the menu changes every four to six weeks to reflect what is available seasonally. Godinho has worked in the world’s only “seven-star” hotel, the Burj al-Arab. Lunch at St Georges is a relaxed experience. In the warmer months, relaxing in the two courtyards under a canopy of vines is popular. There are also a variety of dining areas inside. At lunch try starters like pan-roasted scallops with orange, apple and vanilla puree, young leaves and crispy cauliflower, or crumbed tiger prawns marinated in herbs. Mains may include panko-crumbed gurnard CASUAL BUT CLASSY shallot, sesame, compressed pear, nam jim fillet with chunky chips, tartare sauce and pickled radish. Enticing mains include and organic mixed salad, or slow-cooked The restaurant at Elephant Hill winery at glazed duck breast, salted cucumber, lamb shoulder with parsnip puree, green Te Awanga is a regular award winner that soft shell crab, persimmon and coriander; peas and huckleberries. At dinner, dishes is on the “must do” list of most visitors to Hereford beef fillet with artichoke, duck liver like confit duck leg, poached pear, potato Hawke’s Bay. The experience highlights paté and truffle porcini crumbs, or whitefish galette and baby vegetables may star, not only some of the best regional dining with verbena nage, broccolini, scampi, along with Silver Fern Farm reserve eye in New Zealand, but also spectacular enoki and salmon roe. Matched wines by the fillet with Te Mata mushroom bon bon, broad vineyard and ocean views of the Pacific glass are available for each dish. Elephant beans and peas, or venison short loin, and Cape Kidnappers. Everything here is Hill, 86 Clifton Rd, Te Awanga is open for parsnips puree, kumara fondant, beetroot, slick and modern, with chef Ashley Jones lunch and dinner seven days a week until Jerusalem artichoke and chocolate sauce. serving contemporary food with a nod to the end of March; phone +61 06 872 6060. St Georges Restaurant, 452 St Georges Rd, the classics. The vibe is casual but classy. www.elephanthill.co.nz. Akina, Havelock North, is open Thursday Maybe start with oxtail cannelloni, goats to Monday from 10am until late, and serves cheese, dates, olives and roast garlic; brunch, lunch and dinner; phone +64 6 beef tartare, wasabi ice cream, parmesan Left top: Chef Francky Godinho, St George's restaurant. Above: Elephant Hill restaurant and terrace. 877 5356. www.stgeorgesrestaurant.co.nz. crumb and celery leaf, or tuna, coriander, Opposite page right: Emporium Bar. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 103

178 TASTED 140 AWARDED HAWKES B AY This memorable tasting was Winestate’s best-ever of wines from New Vidal Legacy Hawke's Bay Zealand’s second-largest region, reflecting the exceptional quality of Chardonnay the 2013 and 2014 vintages. Chardonnay was the white-wine highlight, 2010 HHHHH Maturing very gracefully. yielding tightly structured, elegant, slowly evolving wines in 2013 Fairly youthful, and seductively rich, rounded wines in 2014. Both the merlot and light yellow colour, mouthfilling body and cabernet sauvignon classes featured many fragrant, well-ripened and rich, citrusy, complex flavours. Fine, elegant concentrated reds, while the top syrahs should flourish for a decade. and sweet-fruited, with an attractive maturity. Probably at its peak. $60 Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Villa Maria Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2014 HHHHH Fragrant bouquet, SPARKLING CHARDONNAY Esk Valley citrusy, nutty and smoky. 1 TASTED 43 TASTED Winemakers Reserve Powerful, weighty Hawke's Bay wine, still very youthful, 1 AWARDED 35 AWARDED Chardonnay with concentrated, ripe 2014 HHHHH grapefruit and nut flavours, Elephant Hill Black Barn Blanc de An outstanding class, This beauty shot showing excellent Reserve Hawke's Blancs 2010 HHHH reflecting the favourable straight to a five-star complexity, harmony and Bay Chardonnay This scented, citrusy 2014 and 2013 vintages rating from all judges. richness. $32 2013 HHHHH sparkling, from A generous, full-bodied Weighty, generous, chardonnay grapes hand- in Hawke's Bay. wine, with a fragrant, Esk Valley Hawke's creamy-smooth picked in the Havelock The notably sunny slightly flinty bouquet, Bay Chardonnay wine, estate-grown Hills, was disgorged and dry, but not hot, it has rich stonefruit 2014 HHHHH at Te Awanga and after nearly four years on flavours, seasoned with Classic regional style, barrel-fermented. its yeast lees. Showing 2013 growing season nutty oak and excellent with mouthfilling body Concentrated, peachy, considerable complexity, yielded vibrant, crisp complexity. $32 and strong peach, slightly toasty flavours, it is yeasty, very crisp chardonnays, likely to grapefruit and nut with excellent texture, and lively. $70 Trinity Hill Gimblett flavours, showing harmony and length. $45 be long-lived, while the Gravels Chardonnay excellent complexity and warmer 2014 season 2013 HHHHH harmony. Weighty, rich produced full-bodied, Classy, elegant wine and rounded, this is a with a fragrant bouquet, sweet-fruited, well- mingling ripe fruit and wonderful buy. $20 rounded wines, delicious smoky notes. Strong, in their youth. grapefruit-like flavours, with well-integrated nutty oak, good complexity and a long finish. $35 (A, UK) JUDGES - DAY 1 Michael Cooper Michael Ivicevich Kay Morganty Winestate’s New Zealand editor Chief winemaker for Winestate’s is the author of the internationally Oyster Bay Wines New Zealand acclaimed Wine Atlas of New and Delegat’s Wine administrator, Kay Zealand and the annual New Estate, Michael previously worked Zealand Wines: Michael Cooper’s is a senior judge in the wine trade Buyer’s Guide. In the 2004 New and panel leader and for many Year Honours, Michael was in New Zealand years has judged appointed an Officer of the competitions. His on magazine New Zealand Order of Merit for parents own West and competition services to wine writing. Brook Winery, based panels. in Auckland. 104 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Ash Ridge Vintner’s Craggy Range Sacred Hill Kidnapper Cliffs Reserve Hawke's Gimblett Gravels Riflemans Hawke's Hawke's Bay Bay Chardonnay Hawke's Bay Bay Chardonnay Chardonnay 2014 HHHH Chardonnay 2014 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 Pale, creamy-textured 2014 HHHH Fragrant, youthful Tightly structured, wine with rich, Elegant wine, fully wine with peachy, still-youthful wine with grapefruit-like flavours, barrel-fermented, with a citrusy, slightly smoky mouthfilling body and finely integrated oak, fragrant, mealy, slightly and biscuity flavours, very good depth of good complexity biscuity bouquet. a strong seasoning citrusy flavours, fresh and a long finish. Full-bodied and fresh, of oak and excellent and crisp. $55 Tightly structured and with vibrant, ripe fruit complexity. Well worth ageworthy. $35 flavours, a subtle oak cellaring. $70 Mills Reef Reserve influence and good Hawke's Bay Askerne Reserve length. $32 (A, UK) Te Awanga Estate Chardonnay Hawke's Bay Hawke's Bay 2014 HHH1/2 Chardonnay Pask Declaration Chardonnay Attractive, moderately 2014 HHHH Hawke's Bay 2014 HHHH complex wine with Fleshy and sweet- Chardonnay Elegant, youthful wine vibrant, peachy, citrusy fruited, with generous, 2014 HHHH with fresh, ripe, citrusy flavours, fresh and crisp, peachy flavours, finely Slightly oaky bouquet. flavours to the fore, and a gentle seasoning integrated oak and a Traditional regional style, nutty, mealy characters of biscuity oak. $25 rounded finish. $30 with substantial body adding complexity, and generous, ripe, and a well-rounded, Pask Gimblett Clearview Estate Black Barn Reserve peachy, slightly toasty harmonious finish. (From Road Hawke's Bay Reserve Hawke's Hawke's Bay flavours. ‘Yum,’ enthused Rod McDonald.) $25 (UK) Chardonnay Bay Chardonnay Chardonnay one judge. $40 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHHHH 2013 HHHH Vidal Legacy Finely balanced wine, Fragrant, complex, Still youthful, this fresh, Pask Small Hawke's Bay medium to full-bodied, slightly smoky bouquet. citrusy, strongly oak- Batch Wild Yeast Chardonnay with fresh acidity, citrusy, Concentrated, youthful, influenced wine shows Fermentation 2014 HHHH peachy flavours and grapefruit-like flavours, good concentration and Hawke's Bay Strong, smoky, ‘struck subtle, mealy, oaky notes woven with fresh acidity, complexity, with a rich, Chardonnay match’ aromas. Fresh, adding complexity. $22 a subtle oak seasoning rounded finish. $50 2014 HHHH grapefruit-like flavours, and good complexity. Fragrant, mouthfilling, with well-integrated nutty Satyr Kereru Elegant, tightly Clearview Gimblett Gravels wine oak and good complexity. Hawke's Bay structured wine, rated Beachhead Hawke's with ripe fruit flavours, Tight, focused and Chardonnay highly by all judges. $36 Bay Chardonnay impressive depth and lingering. $60 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHHH complexity, and a Mouthfilling, with fresh, Villa Maria Single Pale, youthful wine with lingering finish. $25 Villa Maria Cellar ripe, grapefruit-like Vineyard Keltern mouthfilling body, fresh, Selection Hawke's flavours, considerable Hawke's Bay citrusy fruit flavours, Quarter Acre Bay Chardonnay complexity and a slightly Chardonnay smoky, creamy notes Hawke's Bay 2014 HHHH creamy texture. (From 2014 HHHH1/2 adding complexity and Chardonnay Mouthfilling, ripely Sileni.) $31 Elegant, tight-knit wine a lingering, harmonious 2014 HHHH flavoured, peachy wine with a smoky bouquet, finish. $25 Creamy, smoky with fresh, balanced Vidal Hawke's Bay concentrated, ripe, bouquet. Mouthfilling, acidity, a subtle Chardonnay grapefruit-like flavours, Gunn Estate with generous, ripe seasoning of nutty oak 2014 HHH1/2 good complexity and a Reserve Hawke's fruit flavours, toasty oak and good weight, texture Mouthfilling, sustained finish. Well Bay Chardonnay adding complexity, and and length. Bargain- with moderately worth cellaring. $35 2014 HHHH a well-rounded, lingering priced. $18 concentrated, peachy, Slightly creamy bouquet. finish. (From Rod citrusy, slightly biscuit Weighty, with ripe, McDonald.) $35 (US) Te Awa Hawke's flavours and a fresh, stonefruit flavours, Bay Chardonnay crisp finish. $16 showing good depth, Sacred Hill 2014 HHHH and a finely-textured, Reserve Hawke's Tight, youthful, elegant Vidal Reserve lengthy finish. $20 Bay Chardonnay wine with ripe, citrusy Hawke's Bay 2014 HHHH flavours, showing Chardonnay Elegant, youthful, excellent complexity and 2014 HHH1/2 medium-bodied wine length. Best drinking Mouthfilling and fresh, in with fresh, ripe, sweet- mid-2016+. $30 a fruit-driven style with fruit flavours, gently a subtle twist of oak and seasoned with oak. Crossroads excellent balance for Simon Fell Finely balanced, with Winemakers early drinking. $20 The Auckland-based drink-young appeal. $25 Collection Hawke's winemaker for Bay Chardonnay Thornbury Wines, 2013 HHH1/2 owned by Villa Maria, Full-bodied wine from Simon frequently Mangatahi with ripe fruit judges on competition flavours, some barrel- and magazine panels. ferment complexity and very good depth. $40 (A, UK) November/December 2015 WINES TATE 105

HA WKES B AY Pukeora Ruahine PINOT GRIS SAUVIGNON Villa Maria Single Range Chardonnay Vineyard Ohiti 2012 HHH 8 TASTED BLANC 5 TASTED Gravels Hawke's Bay Grown on limestone 5 AWARDED 7 TASTED 3 AWARDED Arneis 2014 HHHH slopes in Central 4 AWARDED Pale and scented, this Hawke's Bay, this A solid class with no A solid but not is a medium-bodied, barrel-fermented wine spectacular class, in strongly varietal wine is crisp and slightly standouts, but several A good although not with fresh, vibrant pear minerally, with good medium-bodied, clearly memorable class, in which the best wines and slight lime flavours, depth of fresh, peachy varietal wines that which the panel found showed good varietal crisp, finely balanced flavours, showing some offer good, all-purpose character and lots of and lingering. $30 complexity. $26 several wines marrying drink-young appeal. drinking. ripe fruit flavours with Villa Maria Single Sileni Estate well-handled oak, Clearview Te Awanga Vineyard Ohiti Selection The Esk Valley Hawke's Gewurztraminer Gravels Hawke's Bay Lodge Chardonnay Bay Pinot Gris creating a style with 2015 HHHH Arneis 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHH 2015 HHH1/2 some complexity and Exotically perfumed, Crisp, refreshing, slightly Full-bodied wine with Clearly varietal wine with aging potential. with rose petal aromas, minerally wine with fresh, citrusy flavours, peach, pear and lychee this is a refined wine substantial body, ripe, gently seasoned flavours, showing very Black Barn Tuki Tuki with fresh, youthful citrusy fruit flavours and with nutty oak, and a good delicacy and depth, Sauvignon Blanc pear and spice flavours, a lingering finish. $30 slightly creamy texture. and a gently spicy, off-dry 2014 HHH1/2 showing good sugar/acid Enjoyable young. $31 finish. $20 Fragrant and sweet- balance. Strongly varietal, Villa Maria Cellar Selection Tiki Koro Hawke's Haha Hawke's fruited, with youthful, with good delicacy, it Hawke's Bay Arneis has obvious cellaring ripely herbaceous Bay Chardonnay Bay Pinot Gris flavours, a very subtle potential. $19 2014 HHH 2014 HHH 2015 HHH1/2 seasoning of oak and Crisp and dry, this is Slightly oaky bouquet. Vivacious, medium- good length. $26 Askerne Hawke's a lively, refreshing, Mouthfilling, with bodied style with an Bay Gewurztraminer medium-bodied wine citrusy, peachy, nutty attractive, aromatic Clearview Reserve 2014 HHH1/2 with citrusy, slightly flavours, showing a bouquet, crisp, lively Barrique Fermented Showing plenty of spicy flavours. $18 touch of complexity, pear and spice flavours Hawke's Bay personality, this pale gold, but oak-dominated in and an off-dry finish. Sauvignon Blanc mouthfilling wine was VIOGNIER its youth (fermented in Priced sharply. $16 2014 HHH1/2 hand-harvested and 15% French oak barriques, (A, US) Aromatic, full-bodied barrel-fermented. Peachy 5 TASTED 70% new). Worth wine with fresh, ripe, and spicy, it is dryish, 4 AWARDED cellaring. $35 Black Barn Single tropical fruit flavours, a with slightly gingery Vineyard Hawke's notes and lots of current- Tiki Single Vineyard Bay Pinot Gris subtle oak influence and drinking appeal. $22 A good class, although a crisp, dry finish. $25 Hawke's Bay 2014 HHH not exciting, with several Chardonnay Good all-purpose wine, Osawa Prestige Babich Family vividly varietal wines, 2014 HHH grown in the Havelock Collection Hawke's Estates Gimblett priced realistically (given Mouthfilling, barrel- Hills. Medium-bodied, Bay Sauvignon Gravels fermented wine with a with pear and gentle Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 Gewurztraminer the variety’s lack of slightly mealy bouquet spice flavours, fresh, Drinking well now, this 2014 HHH1/2 consumer impact). and peachy flavours, crisp and lively. $26 wood-aged style has Already very expressive, showing good ripeness melon, cut-grass and this mouthfilling wine Villa Maria Cellar and harmony. Vibrantly Overstone VALUE nut flavours, a minerally has ripe, peachy, slightly Selection Hawke's BEST fruity, with some Hawke's Bay BUYS streak, and good texture spicy flavours in a Bay Viognier elegance. $25 Pinot Gris and complexity. $42 strongly varietal style, 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH showing good body and Mouthfilling and Sileni Cellar Solid, dryish wine, Pask Gimblett Road fragrance. $25 rounded, this youthful BEST Selection VALUE medium-bodied, with Barrique Fermented wine has ripe apricot BUYS Hawke's Bay fresh acidity and Sauvignon Blanc and pear flavours, very Chardonnay ripe, peachy flavours, 2014 HHH1/2 ARNEIS fresh and lively, and a 2014 HHH balanced for easy Crisp, refreshing, 3 TASTED touch of complexity. It’s Fruit-driven style with drinking. Good value. medium-bodied wine 3 AWARDED still developing. Fine vibrant, ripe, peachy (From Sileni.) $13 (A) with ripe, tropical fruit value. $18 flavours to the fore and flavours to the fore, a plenty of drink-young Sileni Cellar BEST subtle seasoning of oak A traditional grape of Pask Gimblett appeal. $16 (US) Selection VALUE and a lingering finish. $22 Piedmont, in northern Road Hawke's Bay BUYS Hawke's Bay Viognier Pinot Gris Italy, arneis is very rare 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHH in New Zealand, but this Light and youthful Medium to full-bodied, small class suggests it in colour, this finely with a gentle splash of has potential in warmer textured wine is sweet- sweetness and good fruited, with fresh, dry depth of peach, pear and regions. pear, spice and slight nut spice flavours, balanced flavours. $22 for easy drinking. $16 (A, UK, US) 106 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Saint Clair Hawke's Alluviale Anobli Villa Maria Single Bay Viognier Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard Braided 2014 HHH1/2 2012 (375ml) HHHH Gravels Organic This pale, weighty wine Mature, gold/amber Merlot 2013 HHHHH was estate-grown in the blend from two Hawke's Bold, bright, youthful Gimblett Gravels. Floral, Bay sites, late-harvested colour. Rich, ripe plum/ it has pure apricot, pear and barrel-fermented. spice flavours, with and spice flavours, with a Honeyed bouquet, with fine-grained tannins. crisp, fully dry finish. $22 sweet, strong, apricot- Powerful, dense red, like flavours, showing sweet-fruited, soft and Babich Family a powerful botrytis long. Rated highly by all Estates Fernhill influence, and an oily, judges. $55 Viognier 2014 HHH rich texture. Ready. $40 This estate-grown wine (A, US) Villa Maria Cellar is mouthfilling and dry, Selection Hawke's with peach, pear and ROSÉ Bay Merlot Cabernet spice flavours, an oily 2013 HHHH1/2 texture, gentle acidity, 3 TASTED Dark, rich and smooth. and good delicacy and 2 AWARDED Weighty, with vibrant depth. $25 (UK) plum/spice flavours, a hint of herbs, finely Clearview Black OTHER Reef Blush integrated oak, good complexity and excellent WHITES 2014 HHH1/2 Church Road Elephant Hill ripeness, texture and Floral, pretty pink blend of 2 TASTED chambourcin and merlot, McDonald Series Reserve Merlot depth. $25 2 AWARDED fresh and crisp, with Hawke's Bay Merlot Cabernet Villa Maria Cellar berryish, slightly spicy 2013 HHHHH 2013 HHHHH Selection Organic flavours. Lively, fruity, Dark, fragrant, powerful Deeply coloured red Esk Valley Hawke's easy drinking. $19 wine with dense, ripe, with strong personality, Hawke's Bay Merlot Bay Chenin Blanc plummy, spicy flavours, a blended from merlot 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH Esk Valley Hawke's hint of coffee, and lovely (64%), cabernet Dark, with excellent Still youthful, this Bay Rosé softness and richness. sauvignon (35%) and depth of plum, spice refreshing, very finely 2015 HHH1/2 Praised by all judges, this malbec (1%), estate- and nut flavours, balanced wine is Bright pink, mouthfilling is a five-star red at a four- grown in the Gimblett finely textured and lively, with a sliver of and vibrantly fruity, star price. $27 Gravels (principally) harmonious. Soft, rich sweetness, appetising with dryish berry and and Bridge Pa Triangle. and elegant. $25 acidity, and pure apple, spice flavours, fresh and Powerful, with plummy, melon and peach strong. $20 slightly minty flavours, Alluviale Gimblett flavours showing very rich and smooth- Road Hawke's Bay good depth. $20 flowing. Weighty, fresh Merlot Cabernet MERLOT & and soft. $49 Sauvignon Esk Valley Gimblett BLENDS 2012 HHHH Gravels Verdelho Esk Valley Fresh, lively and savoury 2014 HHHH 34 TASTED Gimblett Gravels blend of merlot (88%) Still developing, this 27 AWARDED Merlot Cabernet and cabernet sauvignon fleshy, weighty wine has Sauvignon Malbec (12%), grown in the an attractive bouquet 2014 HHHHH Gimblett Gravels. and strong, tropical fruit A very strong class, Bold, youthful blend with Strong, ripe plum, flavours, crisp, slightly showing just why merlot concentrated, ripe plum, spice and nutty oak spicy, finely textured and is Hawke's Bay’s most spice and blackcurrant flavours, showing good lingering. $20 widely planted variety of flavours, oak complexity complexity and harmony. $33 (A, US) and a long finish. Dark SWEET all. The five-star wines and dense, with obvious Babich Winemakers’ potential. A top buy. $25 flowed from the two WHITES key sub-regions - the Reserve Hawke's Bay Merlot 1 TASTED Gimblett Gravels and Esk Valley 2013 HHHH Winemakers 1 AWARDED Bridge Pa Triangle - in Reserve Gimblett Mouthfilling, supple both the 2013 and 2014 Gravels Merlot Gimblett Gravels red with a spicy bouquet, vintages, and the four- Clearview Cape Cabernet Sauvignon very good depth of Kidnappers Hawke's 2013 HHHHH star wines include some Bay Merlot Malbec Dark, youthful blend ripe, plummy flavour, a great sub-$20 bargains. 2014 HHHHH with a slightly minty seasoning of nutty oak, Powerful, concentrated fragrance. Fresh, dense and a smooth, lengthy blend of merlot (81%), plum, spice and nutty finish. $30 malbec (13%) and oak flavours, showing cabernet franc (6%). excellent ripeness, Bold, plummy, spicy concentration and flavours, with nutty oak complexity, and a long, and fine-grained tannins. softly textured finish. $60 Rich, ripe and rounded. Great value. $20 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 107

HA WKES B AY Haha Hawke's Bay Sileni Estate Gunn Estate CABERNET Coopers Creek SV Merlot 2014 HHHH Selection The Reserve Hawke's Gimblett Gravels Deeply coloured, Triangle Hawke's Bay Merlot Cabernet SAUVIGNON & Hawke's Bay mouthfilling, sweet- Bay Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon fruited red, from the hill 2013 HHHH Full-flavoured, plummy, Merlot 2013 HHHH country and Gimblett Ripe fruit aromas, spicy red, based almost 19 TASTED Full-coloured blend of Gravels. Aromatic, seasoned with sweet entirely (99%) on merlot. 18 AWARDED cabernet sauvignon with strong, plummy oak. Big, savoury, spicy Savoury, nutty notes add (73%), merlot (25%) and flavours, showing some wine, seasoned with nutty complexity, with a firm malbec (2%), showing complexity, and lots oak, and a finely textured, finish. $20 A consistently strong very good concentration of drink-young appeal. lengthy finish. $35 class, with many wines of plum, spice and slight $17 Mills Reef Reserve awarded four stars coffee flavours, with a Te Awa Single Hawke's Bay finely textured, lingering Mills Reef Elspeth Estate Merlot Merlot Malbec - but not higher. The finish. $29 Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH1/2 2013 vintage, although Hawke's Bay Merlot 2013 HHHH Full-coloured and sweet- favourably sunny and Mills Reef Elspeth 2013 HHHH Fragrant and full-bodied, fruited, with strong, ripe, dry, was not hot, so Cabernet Merlot Generous, full-coloured with rich, ripe plum plummy, spicy flavours, 2013 HHHH red with a floral bouquet, and spice flavours, some oak complexity probably suited earlier- Concentrated Hawke's showing a smoky, fresh, well-rounded and and a smooth finish. ripening red-wine Bay blend with rich spice toasty oak influence. lingering. $35 Enjoyable young. $25 varieties. and dried herb flavours, Mouthfilling body, with still youthful. Complex, strong berry and spice Thornbury Saint Clair Church Road Grand with firm tannins. $49 flavours, rich, savoury Hawke's Bay Merlot Hawke's Bay Merlot Reserve Hawke's and smooth. $49 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 Bay Cabernet Mills Reef Elspeth Offering concentrated Mouthfilling red, grown Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Moana Park Hawke's plum and spice flavours, mostly in the Gimblett 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH Bay Merlot Malbec this fragrant red shows Gravels and American Bold, dark red with Bold, dense colour. 2014 HHHH good power through oak-aged. Ripe plum concentrated, ripe Powerful, concentrated, Powerful, bold Gimblett the palate, with some and spice flavours, with blackcurrant, plum and softly structured red Gravels blend of merlot savoury complexity and fresh acidity and very spice flavours and a with lovely, vibrant (80%), malbec (15%) a firm finish. A great good depth. $25 (UK) smooth finish. Soft and blackcurrant, plum and and cabernet franc (5%), buy. (From Villa Maria.) elegant, showing good spice flavours. $49 barrel-aged for a year. $15 Satyr Three Roads weight, balance and Concentrated plum, Hawke's Bay Merlot length. $44 Mills Reef Reserve spice and herb flavours, Vidal Reserve 2013 HHH1/2 Hawke's Bay with smooth tannins. Hawke’s Bay Merlot Full-coloured, firm, spicy Clearview Hawke's Cabernet Merlot Sharply priced. $20 Cabernet Sauvignon and plummy, with some Bay Old Olive Block 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH development showing 2013 HHHH Savoury red with Sacred Hill Full-coloured and and savoury notes Fresh, vibrant and generous, ripe, red Brokenstone fragrant, with a sweet adding complexity. (From supple blend of cabernet berry and spice flavours, 2013 HHHH oak influence, strong, Sileni.) $35 (A) sauvignon (46%) and showing good freshness Deeply coloured, merlot- ripe plum and spice merlot (38%), with and complexity. $25 based, Gimblett Gravels flavours, showing Villa Maria Private smaller amounts of blend, with minor some complexity, and a Bin Hawke's Bay cabernet franc and Sacred Hill portions of malbec (6%), smooth finish. $20 Merlot 2014 HHH1/2 malbec. Concentrated Helmsman syrah (5%), cabernet Fresh, ripe, plummy blackcurrant, plum 2013 HHHH sauvignon (2%) and Askerne Reserve and spicy, with a hint of and spice flavours, Dark Gimblett Gravels cabernet franc (2%). Merlot Cabernet sweet oak, in a medium- seasoned with toasty blend of cabernet Strong blackcurrant, Sauvignon Cabernet bodied, vibrantly fruity oak, and good, savoury sauvignon (50%), plum and spice flavours, Franc Malbec style with very good complexity. $36 merlot and cabernet complex and savoury, 2013 HHH1/2 flavour depth. $16 franc, barrel-aged for 18 and good tannin Full-coloured, with very Coopers Creek months. Mouthfilling, backbone. $50 good depth of fresh Babich Hawke's Bay Reserve Hawke's it has blackcurrant and plum, spice, herb and Merlot Cabernet Bay Cabernet spice flavours, with hints Saint Clair Pioneer olive flavours and a firm 2014 HHH Sauvignon of herbs and coffee, Block 17 Plateau finish. $30 Nutty, spicy and 2013 HHHH fine-grained tannins, and Block Merlot flavoursome, in a This powerful, good complexity and 2013 HHHH Coopers Creek SV tightly structured style densely coloured red richness. $60 Dark Gimblett Gravels Metals and Gravels with fresh, ripe fruit is concentrated and red with a perfumed, Merlot Malbec characters and a firm tightly structured, Vidal Legacy sweetly oaked bouquet 2013 HHH1/2 finish. $22 with beautifully rich Hawke's Bay (American oak, 47% Vibrantly fruity blend blackcurrant, plum and Cabernet Sauvignon new). Vibrantly fruity, of merlot (79%) and spice flavours. Best Merlot 2013 HHHH with strong plum malbec (21%), with drinking 2018+. (One Smooth and and spice flavours, plum, spice and nut judge scored it five mouthfilling, with showing some savoury flavours, showing very stars.) $57 plum, berry, spice and complexity, and a well- good depth. $25 nut flavours, showing rounded finish. $38 good complexity and richness. $70 108 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Saint Clair Pioneer Trinity Hill Gimblett Block 17 Plateau Gravels The Gimblett Cabernet Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHHH Dark, youthful blend Estate-grown in the of cabernet sauvignon Gimblett Gravels, this (40%), merlot (30%), dark, vibrantly fruity cabernet franc (29%) blend of cabernet and petit verdot (1%). sauvignon (72%) and Plummy and spicy, with merlot (28%) was very good ripeness American oak-aged. It and depth and some is youthful, with gentle savoury complexity. $35 tannins and strong (A, UK, US) blackcurrant, red berry and spice flavours. $38 Moana Park Single Vineyard Reserve Villa Maria Reserve Merlot Cabernet Gimblett Gravels 2013 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Full-coloured, with a Merlot 2013 HHHH slightly leafy bouquet Fragrant and full- and good flavour depth. coloured, with rich, Generous but green- vibrant plum and spice edged, with a firm, dry flavours, showing finish. $40 good ripeness and concentration, finely Saint Clair Hawke's integrated oak and good Bay Cabernet Merlot complexity. $50 Malbec 2013 HHH Solid Gimblett Gravels Villa Maria Reserve blend of cabernet Gimblett Gravels sauvignon (38%), merlot Merlot 2013 HHHH (33%) and malbec Deeply coloured, floral (29%), matured in tanks and mouthfilling, with and American oak. Full- SHOWCASE YOUR BEST concentrated red berry, coloured, with fresh, plum and spice flavours, berryish, spicy flavours, seasoned with nutty showing some savoury South Australian wineries, oak. Rich, ripe and complexity. $27 smooth. $50 culinary creatives, producers, PINOT NOIR growers and brewers are all Babich The Patriarch invited to take part in the 2013 HHH1/2 9 TASTED This dark Gimblett 5 AWARDED largest wine and food festival Gravels blend of in South Australia, all under cabernet sauvignon, one roof in the heart of the merlot and malbec is A mixed bag, but the concentrated, with relatively cool, coastal CBD. vibrant blackcurrant, and inland, elevated plum and spice flavours, districts of Hawke's For expressions of interest ripe, nutty and savoury. (One judge scored it five Bay are yielding some contact stars.) $70 attractive - although not [email protected] exciting - pinot noirs. Mills Reef Elspeth Trust Vineyard Satyr Foothills Cabernet Sauvignon Hawke's Bay Pinot 2013 HHH1/2 Boldly coloured, with Noir 2014 HHHH Richly coloured and strong, ripe, plummy weighty, with strong flavours. Fruity, with plum/spice flavours, FEBRUARY good complexity and showing good soft tannins. $49 complexity, and a 2016 lengthy, finely textured Mills Reef Reserve finish. $35 ADELAIDE Hawke's Bay Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 Coopers Creek CONVENTION Floral, easy-drinking red Hawke's Bay Pinot with fresh, plummy, Noir 2013 HHH1/2 CENTRE spicy flavours in a Fresh and lively, with medium-bodied style generous, plummy, spicy with soft tannins. $25 flavours, gentle tannins www.cellardoorfestival.com and an inviting fragrance. Fine value. $18 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 109

HA WKES B AY Sileni Estate Villa Maria Cellar Babich Sacred Hill Selection The Selection Hawke's Winemakers’ Deerstalkers Plateau Hawke's Bay Bay Syrah 2013 Reserve Hawke's Hawke's Bay Syrah Pinot Noir HHHHH Bay Syrah 2013 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 Refined, gently oaked 2013 HHHH Dark, youthful red Ruby hued, fresh and wine with dense, inky Attractive, deeply with good weight supple, with attractive colour. Concentrated coloured Gimblett and concentrated berry/spice flavours, a plum and spice flavours, Gravels red, elegant blackcurrant, plum hint of herbs, savoury with fine-grained and savoury, with and spice flavours. notes adding complexity, tannins. Dense, ripe and concentrated plum/spice Dense, spicy and long, soft tannins and good long. A top buy. $25 flavours, hints of olives but needs time; best length. $35 and licorice, fine-grained drinking 2017+. $60 tannins and good Osawa Prestige complexity. $30 Vidal Legacy Series Collection Hawke's Gimblett Gravels Bay Pinot Noir Coopers Creek Hawke's Bay Syrah 2013 HHH Hawke's Bay Syrah 2013 HHHH Fresh and lively, with 2013 HHHH Dark, youthful red with ripe plum, spice, herb Dark, medium-bodied concentrated, strongly and nut flavours, style with strong, ripe, varietal, ripe plum/spice showing some plummy, well-spiced flavours, seasoned complexity, and a fairly flavours, gentle tannins with quality oak, and firm finish. $52 and good length. One firm, fine-grained Elephant Hill judge scored it five tannins. ‘Brooding,’ Overstone Reserve Hawke's stars. (14% malbec.) $21 noted one panellist. Hawke's Bay Bay Syrah Open 2017+. $80 BEST Pinot Noir VALUE 2013 HHHHH Coopers Creek BUYS 2014 HHH Dark, dense red, estate- SV Chalk Ridge Clearview Cape Bright ruby, mouthfilling grown in the Gimblett Hawke's Bay Syrah Kidnappers and supple red with Gravels (85%) and at 2013 HHHH Hawke's Bay Syrah fresh, lively, plummy, Te Awanga (15%). Very Dark and supple, with 2014 HHH1/2 slightly spicy flavours. rich, ripe plum/spice strong blackcurrant, Deeply coloured, clearly Fine value. (From Sileni.) flavours, in a powerful, plum and spice flavours varietal red with strong, $13 (A) tight, concentrated style and gentle tannins. Full- vibrant plum, spice and with a hint of coffee, bodied, sweet-fruited black pepper flavours. SYRAH Church Road good tannin support, and floral. Delicious Medium-bodied, supple McDonald Series wine with a floral young. $29 30 TASTED Hawke's Bay Syrah oak complexity (French, bouquet. $25 35% new), and obvious 22 AWARDED 2013 HHHHH cellaring potential. $49 Saint Clair Pioneer Bold, dark, powerful Block 17 Plateau Mills Reef Reserve red with dense, ripe Esk Valley Hawke's Bay Syrah Hawke's Bay Syrah Some of the most blackcurrant, plum and Winemakers Reserve 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 prestigious labels are black pepper flavours Hawke's Bay Syrah Poised, elegant, Mouthfilling, full- extremely youthful, and well-integrated 2013 HHHH1/2 Gimblett Gravels red, coloured red with good but Hawke's Bay oak. One judge wrote Dark, powerful, tightly medium-bodied and depth of ripe plum/ spice flavours, a sweet ‘brooding’; another supple. Floral, with ripe syrahs from the 2013 ‘super-charged’. A great structured red with plum and black pepper oak influence and some concentrated plum and vintage are packed with buy! $27 spice flavours, showing flavours, French oak complexity. $25 potential, revealing the Coopers Creek good varietal character, complexity (30% new), Pask Gimblett Road and lots of drink-young density and structure Reserve Hawke's hints of licorice and appeal. $38 (UK) Hawke's Bay Syrah black pepper, and a to mature for a decade; Bay Syrah floral bouquet. Still very 2013 HHH1/2 perhaps longer. The 2013 HHHHH youthful. $60 Esk Valley Hawke's Full-coloured, medium- bodied red with Bold, rich red, dark and Bay Syrah panel unearthed two strongly varietal, with Villa Maria 2013 HHHH satisfying depth of wonderful bargains, dense blackcurrant, Reserve Gimblett Fresh and full-bodied, plum, spice and black from Church Road and plum and black pepper Gravels Syrah with strongly varietal, ripe pepper flavours, and Villa Maria. flavours. Powerful, 2013 HHHH1/2 plum, spice and black gentle tannins. A very youthful wine, with ripe Dark, highly pepper flavours, gentle attractive, drink-young tannins and impressive concentrated red with tannins, and excellent style. $22 concentration and blackcurrant, plum and vigour and depth. Worth length. $57 black pepper flavours, cellaring. $25 Vidal Reserve very pure and youthful, Hawke's Bay Syrah finely integrated oak, Mills Reef Elspeth 2013 HHH1/2 and supple tannins. Syrah 2013 HHHH Deeply coloured, with Opulent and ageworthy. Elegant, ageworthy red, mouthfilling body and One judge scored it five full-coloured, with plum, very good depth of stars. $60 spice and black pepper plum, olive and black flavours, finely balanced pepper flavours. Fresh oak, and excellent and floral. $25 vibrancy and depth. $49 110 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Mills Reef Elspeth Church Road Villa Maria Cellar Trust Vineyard McDonald Series Selection Hawke's Hawke's Bay Syrah Hawke's Bay Bay Grenache 2013 HHH Tempranillo 2014 HHH1/2 Floral, medium to full- 2013 HHHH Full-coloured, with bodied style with ripe Powerful, deeply strong, vibrant plum/ plum/spice flavours, a coloured, savoury red spice flavours, showing sweet oak influence and with plum and spice some smoky, savoury gentle tannins. Highly flavours, showing good complexity, and a tight, approachable in its ripeness, density and finely textured finish. youth. $49 complexity, and very Worth cellaring. $25 Follow us and keep fine-grained tannins. Moana Park Single Youthful, ageworthy Crossroads up to date with all Vineyard Reserve wine, enjoyed by all Winemakers Hawke's Bay Syrah judges. $27 Collection Hawke's our latest wine info, 2013 HHH Bay Cabernet Franc Full-coloured Gimblett Coopers Creek 2013 HHH Gravels red with SV Saint John Attractive Gimblett tastings and events generous plum, spice Hawke's Bay Malbec Gravels red with plum, and herb flavours, 2013 HHHH spice and herb flavours, on facebook, twitter held back by a slight Dark, youthful, fragrant showing good depth, and lack of ripeness and red with sweet, a finely textured, smooth and instagram. roundness. $40 ‘coconut’ aromas and finish. $40 (A, UK) very good depth of Te Awa Single Estate vibrant plum/spice Hawke's Bay Syrah flavours. $29 2013 HHH Fresh and full-coloured, Mills Reef Elspeth in a medium-bodied Gimblett Gravels style with plummy, spicy Hawke's Bay flavours, a hint of herbs Cabernet Franc and a floral bouquet. $35 2013 HHHH Powerful, fragrant Tinpot Hut Hawke's red with fresh, strong Bay Syrah 2013 HHH plum, red berry and Smooth, full-coloured spice flavours, finely red with ripe, plummy, structured and youthful. slightly spicy flavours. Well worth cellaring. $49 Medium-bodied, finely textured wine with good Trinity Hill Gimblett depth. $28 (UK) Gravels Tempranillo 2013 HHHH OTHER REDS Youthful, fragrant, dark red with strong, ripe 9 TASTED blackcurrant, plum 8 AWARDED and spice flavours, showing some savoury Winestate Magazine complexity, and a A strong class, moderately firm finish. @WinestateEd demonstrating Hawke's Well worth cellaring. $35 Bay’s versatility and (A, UK) ability to produce classy Villa Maria Reserve reds not only from Gimblett Gravels traditional Bordeaux Hawke's Bay Malbec varieties, such as malbec 2013 HHHH Inky hued, very fresh and cabernet franc, but and lively red with also much rarer varieties, impressive density of including tempranillo and spicy, plummy flavours, grenache. firm tannins, and good ripeness and length. Powerful, tightly Crossroads Talisman structured wine, worth 2013 HHHHH cellaring. $60 This ‘mystery blend’ is powerful, dark and youthful, with a strong, smoky oak influence and rich, sweet-fruit flavours that linger well. Savoury, supple and harmonious. $55 (A) November/December 2015 WINES TATE 111

MICHAEL COOPER’S RECENT RELEASES Wines from Waiheke Island, including a syrah, a Bordeaux-style red Frenchmans Hill Brancott Estate Estate Waiheke Letter Series ‘F’ and – less predictably – a powerful, complex, oak-aged sauvignon Island Rock Earth Marlborough Pinot blanc – stand out in the latest batch of releases. The tasting also Syrah 2010 HHHHH Gris 2015 HHHH1/2 Set for a long life, this This powerful, full- featured the first Marlborough sauvignon blancs from the 2015 powerful, concentrated bodied wine (14.5 vintage, which look exceptionally aromatic and punchy. red is still youthful. per cent alcohol) is Grown in The 8 Vineyard sweet-fruited, with and matured for 16 concentrated stonefruit months in all-new and spice flavours, Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available oak barriques, it is showing excellent in export markets are shown as (A), (UK) and (US). deeply coloured and delicacy, harmony and muscular (15% alc/ depth. Richly varietal, vol), but not heavy, with with good complexity, dense blackcurrant, it’s delicious from the  Brancott Estate Expatrius Advenus black pepper and spice start, but well worth cellaring. $33 flavours, complex, Letter Series ‘O’ Waiheke Island Marlborough 2013 HHHHH savoury and firm. Best Chardonnay Delicious now, this 2018+. $75 Craggy Range 2014 HHHHH powerful, sweet-fruited Te Muna Road This highly refined, Waiheke Island wine is Yealands Estate Vineyard ageworthy wine is sauvignon blanc-based, Winemaker’s Martinborough mouthfilling, fleshy with some viognier, and Reserve Awatere Pinot Noir and sweet-fruited, with was fermented in tanks Valley Marlborough 2013 HHHH1/2 youthful stonefruit (75%) and new oak Pinot Noir Already delicious, this flavours, mealy, biscuity barrels (25%). A weighty, 2014 HHHHH enticingly floral and notes adding complexity, non-herbaceous style, This classy, powerful yet supple red was hand- a slightly creamy texture it is fragrant and sturdy, elegant red was estate- harvested at over 24 and excellent depth, with ripe tropical fruit grown on an elevated, brix, fermented with delicacy and harmony. flavours, impressively north-facing slope in indigenous yeasts and Open mid-2016+. $33 complex and rich. High- the Willowflat Vineyard matured for 10 months priced – but worth it. $48 and matured for a year in French oak barriques Crossroads in French oak barriques (25 per cent new). Bright Winemakers Frenchmans Hill (15% new). Deep ruby, ruby, it is sweet-fruited Collection Hawke's Estate Waiheke it is fleshy, concentrated and savoury, with cherry, Bay Chardonnay Island Blood Creek 8 and supple, with very plum and spice flavours, 2013 HHHHH 2012 HHHHH generous plum/spice showing excellent This powerful, youthful This highly concentrated flavours, complex complexity, fine-grained wine was grown in the red is a blend of eight and savoury. A rich, tannins, and good inland Kereru Vineyard, varieties, with a ‘core’ harmonious and very potential. Drink now or at Mangatahi, hand- of cabernet sauvignon ‘complete’ wine, it cellar. $43 (A, UK) Awatere River picked and fermented (35%), merlot (20%) and should be at its best by Louis Vavasour and lees-aged for 11 petit verdot (20%), plus 2017+. $40 (A, UK, US) Crossroads Marlborough months in French oak minor portions of syrah, Hawke's Bay Late Harvest barriques (25% new). cabernet franc, tannat, ½ Talisman Gewurztraminer Still very fresh and viognier and koler. 2013 HHHH1/2 2014 (375ml) vibrant, it has a fragrant, Matured for two years in This mystery blend HHHHH complex bouquet, all-new oak barriques, it Brancott Estate of unidentified grape This golden, honey- concentrated stonefruit is bold, deeply coloured, Letter Series ‘P’ varieties has bold, purple- sweet wine was picked flavours, enriched mouthfilling and firm, in Marlborough flushed colour. Barrique- in mid-May at over 40 with toasty oak, good a ‘masculine’ style with Gewurztraminer aged for 16 months, it brix, with an ‘extensive’ delicacy and a long dense, ripe blackcurrant, 2014 HHHH1/2 is mouthfilling, vibrant botrytis infection, and finish. Best drinking plum and spice flavours. This fleshy, youthful and supple, in a youthful barrel-fermented. The 2017+. $40 (A, UK) It should flourish for a wine is weighty, with but approachable style bouquet is perfumed, decade. $88 ripe, peachy, spicy with strong, plummy, honeyish and spicy; the flavours, showing spicy flavours, showing palate fresh and rich, excellent concentration good complexity, and a with peach, apricot and and complexity, and an rich, smooth finish. $50 spice flavours, good off-dry, finely balanced (A, UK) sugar/acid balance (213 finish. Best drinking mid- grams/litre residual 2016+. $33 sugar), and great drink- young appeal. $40 112 WINES TATE November/December 2015

recent releases Expatrius Waiheke Greystone Waipara Saint Clair Pioneer  Brancott Estate Island Syrah Valley Pinot Noir Block 11 Cell Terroir Series 2012 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH1/2 Block Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Already drinking well, Deep ruby, mouthfilling Chardonnay Awatere River by Gris 2015 HHHH this is a refined, supple and supple, this classy 2014 HHHH1/2 Louis Vavasour Delicious young, this red, matured for 16 young red was hand- This classy wine was Marlborough Awatere Valley wine is months in all-new oak picked, fermented grown at Dillons Point, Chardonnay scented, mouthfilling and barriques. Full-coloured, with indigenous yeasts in the lower Wairau 2014 HHHH vibrantly fruity, with ripe it is fragrant, with and matured for 11 Valley, and fermented This mouthfilling, high- pear, peach and spice ripe plum, spice and months in French oak and lees-aged for flavoured wine was flavours, showing clearcut nut flavours, showing barriques (28% new). 10 months in new fermented and matured varietal character, and excellent depth, Silky-textured, it has French oak barriques. in French oak casks a dryish, well-rounded roundness, complexity strong, ripe plum and Mouthfilling and (25% new). Already finish. $19.95 and harmony. $68 spice flavours, with a sweet-fruited, with drinking well but worth hint of dried herbs, oak fresh, biscuity oak cellaring, it has good Cliff Edge Awhitu Gillman complexity and good strongly in evidence, it concentration of fresh, Merlot Cabernet Cabernet Franc potential; open 2017+. has generous, peachy, peachy, toasty flavours, Franc 2009 HHHH Merlot Malbec $40 (A, UK) citrusy flavours, good a hint of butterscotch, Still on sale, this South 2009 HHHH1/2 mouthfeel and texture, and firm acid spine. Best Auckland red is maturing This savoury, complex Maori Point Central and a rich, rounded, drinking mid-2016+. $32 very gracefully. Like Matakana red is a blend Otago Pinot Noir long finish. Best mid- a decent Bordeaux, of cabernet franc, merlot 2013 HHHH1/2 2016+. $33 Awatere River by it is savoury, with and malbec. Full and still This single-vineyard, Louis Vavasour moderately rich plum, fairly youthful in colour, Cromwell Basin red Spy Valley Marlborough Pinot spice and nut flavours, it is distinctly Bordeaux- is full-bodied and rich. Marlborough Gris 2015 HHHH developing good like, with mouthfilling Matured for 16 months Chardonnay This elegant, youthful complexity. $33 body and very satisfying in French oak barrels 2014 HHHH1/2 wine was partly oak- depth of blackcurrant, (40 per cent new), and This fragrant, classy aged. Fleshy, with a Frenchmans Hill berry, spice and nut bottled unfined and young wine was hand- slightly creamy texture, Estate Waiheke flavours, seasoned with unfiltered, it has deep, picked, barrel-fermented it has good weight and Island Ted’s quality oak. Drink now or bright colour. Savoury, and oak-aged for nearly a depth of pear, lychee Chardonnay cellar. $70 with strong, ripe, year. Light lemon/green; and spice flavours, 2014 HHHH plummy, spicy flavours, it is tightly structured, showing a touch of oak- Light gold, with a toasty Glasnevin Limited good complexity, and a with impressive depth derived complexity, and bouquet, this Waiheke Release Waipara real sense of youthful of peachy, slightly excellent delicacy and wine was grown at Te Valley Pinot Noir vigour, it offers fine toasty flavours, showing harmony. $25 Rere Cove vineyard and 2014 HHHH1/2 value. Best drinking good complexity, and fermented and matured Full of youthful vigour, 2017+. $33 a lingering finish. Well Brancott Estate for a year in all-new this richly varietal red worth cellaring, it offers Letter Series ‘R’ French oak barriques. was hand-picked, Saint Clair Pioneer great value. $23 (A) Marlborough A powerful, full-bodied fermented with Block 10 Twin Sauvignon Gris wine, it is sweet-fruited, indigenous yeasts and Hills Marlborough Yealands Estate 2015 HHHH with rich, ripe, stonefruit matured for nine months Chardonnay Winemaker’s Instantly appealing, flavours, strongly in French oak barriques 2014 HHHH1/2 Reserve Gibbston this mouthfilling (14.5 seasoned with toasty (33 per cent new). Deep This stylish wine was Central Otago Pinot per cent alcohol) wine oak. It needs time; open ruby, it is mouthfilling, estate-grown in the Noir 2014 HHHH1/2 is very smooth, with mid-2016+. $58 vibrant and supple, with Omaka Valley and This classy young fresh, ripely herbaceous very good concentration fermented and lees- red was grown in the aromas and flavours, Invivo Sophie’s of fresh cherry, plum aged for 10 months in Holtzmann Vineyard, stonefruit notes, some Marlborough Rosé and spice flavours, French oak barrels (50% 320 metres above sea oak-derived complexity, 2015 HHHH finely integrated oak, new). Mouthfilling, it level at Gibbston, and and lots of youthful Delicious from the and obvious cellaring is still youthful, with matured for a year in impact. $33 start, this bright pink, potential. Best drinking concentrated, peachy, French oak barriques attractively scented 2017+. $35 citrusy, slightly biscuity (25 per cent new). Deep Brancott Estate wine was made from and smoky flavours, ruby, it is mouthfilling, Marlborough pinot noir. Full of vibrant, Greystone Waipara good complexity, with generous cherry, Sauvignon Blanc berryish flavour, with Valley Chardonnay balanced acidity and a plum and dried herb 2015 HHHH hints of plums and 2014 HHHH1/2 lingering finish. Best flavours, vibrant, supple, Highly aromatic, punchy watermelon and a hint This mouthfilling, drinking mid-2016+. $33 rich and flowing. $40 (A, bouquet. Crisp, incisive of sweetness, it’s fresh, elegant wine was hand- UK, US) melon, lime and green finely balanced and picked, fermented with capsicum flavours, in packed with youthful indigenous yeasts in an intensely varietal, charm. $19 (A, UK) French oak (20% new), exuberantly fruity style and given a full, softening with lots of youthful malolactic fermentation. impact. $17 Very fresh and finely balanced, it has rich, pure, citrusy, slightly peachy flavours, gently seasoned with oak, good complexity and a slightly buttery, lingering finish. $40 (A, UK) November/December 2015 WINES TATE 113

MICHAEL COOPER Kalex Central Otago Peter Yealands Saint Clair Godfrey’s Stoneleigh Riesling 2014 HHHH Marlborough Creek Reserve Rapaura Series Instantly appealing, Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot this light (9.5 per cent 2015 HHHH Gris 2014 HHHH Noir 2014 HHHH alcohol), gently sweet This punchy, intensely Made in a full-bodied, This deep ruby, sturdy, style was grown at varietal wine is a blend dry style (4.5 grams/ savoury wine is named Bendigo, in the Cromwell of Awatere Valley (70%) litre residual sugar), this after the Rapaura series Basin. Tangy, ripe, peachy and Wairau Valley (30%) single-vineyard, Brancott of soils, rather than the and slightly spicy, it has grapes. Crisp, tightly Valley wine was tank- district in the Wairau good concentration structured and slightly fermented and lees- Valley. A single-vineyard and harmony, in a minerally, it has fresh, aged. It is mouthfilling, red, it is full-bodied, very expressive style, strong melon and green with fresh, youthful with ripe plum and enjoyable young. $26 (UK) capsicum flavours, with pear, lychee and spice spice flavours, revealing the incisive, nettley notes flavours, showing very good complexity, and a Kalex Waipara typical of the Awatere good vigour and depth. moderately firm finish. Valley Chardonnay Valley. Priced sharply. It’s still unfolding; open It’s still very youthful; 2013 HHHH $16 (A, UK, US) 2016+. $31 open 2017+. $28 This high-flavoured wine was hand-picked, Renato Nelson Saint Clair Stoneleigh BEST fermented with Chardonnay Omaka Reserve Wild Valley VALUE BUYS indigenous yeasts 2014 HHHH Marlborough Marlborough and barrel-aged for a This sturdy, full-flavoured Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc year. Pale yellow, it wine was estate-grown 2014 HHHH 2015 HHHH is mouthfilling, with Mt Beautiful North at Kina, hand-picked and Still unfolding, this Showing lots of ripe, peachy, mealy Canterbury Pinot barrel-fermented. Pale partly hand-harvested personality, this great- flavours, hints of toast Gris 2014 HHHH straw, it is mouthfilling, wine was fermented value wine was ‘wild and butterscotch, and This fragrant, fleshy with peachy, slightly and lees-aged for 10 fermented by the impressive complexity, wine is powerful (14.5% biscuity flavours, months in American oak micro-flora that occur harmony and length. alcohol) and creamy- showing very good barrels (50% new) and naturally in the Rapaura Drink now or cellar. textured, in an Alsace depth and complexity, given a full, softening environment’. The $36 (UK) style with a sliver of a hint of butterscotch, malolactic fermentation. bouquet is punchy, with sweetness, balanced fresh acidity and some Full-bodied, it has rich, some complexity; the Maori Point Central acidity, and strong potential. Best drinking peachy, citrusy flavours, palate mouthfilling, very Otago Pinot Gris stonefruit and spice mid-2016+. $25 seasoned with sweet fresh and vibrant, with 2014 HHHH flavours. Drink now oak, and a well-rounded incisive, ripe, tropical Scented, mouthfilling onwards. $27 (UK, US) Saint Clair Godfrey’s finish. Best drinking mid- fruit flavours, crisp, dry and crisp, this single- Creek Reserve 2016+. $38 (A, UK) and lingering. $19 vineyard, Cromwell Paddy Borthwick Marlborough Basin wine was Left Hand New Gewurztraminer Saint Clair Pioneer Ten Sisters fermented in a 50/50 Zealand Pinot Noir 2014 (375ml) HHHH Block 4 Sawcut Single Vineyard split of tanks and 2011 HHHH Light gold, with a spicy, Marlborough Marlborough seasoned French barrels, Estate-grown in the honeyed bouquet, this Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc and bottled unfined Wairarapa, this rare is a single-vineyard 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH and unfiltered. Made wine (70 cases) gave wine, hand-picked in the Currently slightly oaky, This tangy, vivacious in an off-dry style, it is left-handed winemaker Wairau Valley. Delicious this youthful Ure Valley wine was grown in fresh and youthful, with Braden Crosby the young, it is medium to wine was hand-picked the Southern Valleys tightly structured peach, chance to express full-bodied, in a vividly and fermented and and aged on its yeast pear, lychee and spice his ‘logical, precise’ varietal style with lees-aged for 10 months lees. A crisp, medium- flavours, showing very approach. Bright, light abundant sweetness in French oak barriques bodied style, it is tightly good drive and length. ruby, it is a ‘feminine’ (161 grams/litre residual (25% new). It is structured, with ripe Best drinking 2016+. $24 style, with plum, sugar), gentle acidity and mouthfilling, with fresh, melon/lime flavours, cherry, spice and nut peachy, spicy flavours, citrusy, peachy, toasty hints of capsicums Paddy Borthwick flavours, showing good rich and soft. $29 flavours, strong, vibrant and gooseberries, and New Zealand Pinot complexity and harmony, and well-rounded. Open excellent purity and Gris 2014 HHHH and fine-grained tannins. Saint Clair Godfrey’s mid-2016+. $33 length. $20 (A, US) From Gladstone, in Drink now or cellar. $50 Creek Reserve the Wairarapa, this Marlborough Noble Stoneleigh Latitude Tiki Marlborough mouthfilling wine is Paddy Borthwick Pinot Gris 2014 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc peachy and dry, with New Zealand Pinot (375ml) HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2015 HHHH generous stonefruit Noir 2014 HHHH Already drinking well, 2015 HHHH Highly aromatic, with flavours, woven with This mouthfilling, this amber hued, single- From the north side of lots of youthful impact, fresh acidity, slightly generous and supple vineyard dessert wine the Wairau Valley, this is this Wairau Valley wine buttery notes and red was estate-grown was hand-picked and a classic Rapaura style, is vivacious, with good excellent body, texture in the Wairarapa. handled entirely in tanks. with ripe, tropical fruit body and fresh, crisp and harmony. Drink now Full, bright ruby, it A strongly botrytised aromas and flavours. melon/lime flavours, or cellar. $24 has strong, plummy, style, it is sweet but not Crisp and punchy, with showing excellent slightly herbal and super-sweet (97 grams/ good freshness, vigour intensity and harmony. nutty flavours, showing litre residual sugar), with and intensity, it should $20 (A, UK, US) good complexity, a nectareous bouquet, be in top form this and gentle tannins. good acid spine and summer. $23 Already enjoyable, it’s rich apricot and honey a drink-now or cellaring flavours. $29 proposition. $34 114 WINES TATE November/December 2015

recent releases Toi Toi Reserve ½ Greystone Waipara Paddy Borthwick Supper Club Marlborough Valley Pinot Gris Right Hand New Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH1/2 Zealand Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2014 HHHH Awatere River by Medium-bodied style 2011 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 Drinking well now, Louis Vavasour with pear, lemon and This rare wine (70 cases) Offering good value, this blend of Awatere Marlborough Pinot spice flavours and a was estate-grown in the this is a blend of Valley and Wairau Valley Noir 2014 HHH1/2 touch of complexity from Wairarapa and made upper Awatere Valley grapes was partly barrel- This floral, supple red fermentation in tanks by Paddy Borthwick, (principally) and lower fermented. Mouthfilling was grown at three sites and oak puncheons. an ‘intuitive, impulsive’, Wairau Valley fruit, and smooth, it has in the Awatere Valley and Elegant, hand-picked right-handed vigneron. mostly handled in tanks, generous, ripely matured for nine months style, currently quite Showing light, slightly but 30 per cent barrel- herbaceous flavours, in French oak barriques youthful and restrained; developed colour, it fermented. Mouthfilling, with a hint of green (30% new). Light ruby, it open 2016+. $27 (A, UK) is fairly similar to its it has fresh, citrusy, capsicums, a very subtle is an elegant style with Left Hand stablemate peachy flavours to the oak influence, lees-aging moderately concentrated Leveret IQ (above), but slightly fore, with savoury, notes adding complexity berry, plum, spice and Rosé Methode more herbal, in a slightly buttery notes and good length. $22 dried herb flavours, Traditionnelle ‘feminine’ style with adding complexity, and (A, US) showing some savoury NV HHH1/2 cherry, dried herb and very good depth and complexity. Best This mature, light orange nut flavours, and gentle harmony. Best drinking drinking mid-2016+. $31 blend of chardonnay (44 tannins. Ready. $50 mid-2016+. $19 per cent), pinot noir (43 Black Cottage per cent), pinot meunier Renato Nelson Pinot Thistle Ridge Marlborough Pinot (8 per cent) and cabernet Noir 2014 HHH1/2 Waipara Pinot Noir Noir 2014 HHH1/2 franc (5 per cent) was This estate-grown wine 2014 HHH1/2 This sharply priced red grown in Hawke's Bay. was hand-harvested at Fine value North is ruby-hued, fresh and Crisp and lively, it has Kina and matured for Canterbury red, full- finely textured, with peach, strawberry and 11 months in French bodied, generous and cherry/plum flavours, spice flavours, showing oak barriques (25% smooth. Bright ruby, showing good delicacy good vigour and yeast- new). Bright ruby, it has with good depth of and harmony. Skilfully derived complexity. Drink good depth of cherry, cherry, plum, dried herb crafted, with a touch of now. $20 plum, spice and dried and spice flavours. Softly complexity, it’s already herb flavours, with textured, with some drinking well. $20 Mt Beautiful savoury notes adding complexity, it’s already (A, UK) North Canterbury complexity, and a enjoyable and should Chardonnay moderately firm finish. be at its best 2016+. Craggy Range 2014 HHH1/2 Open mid-2016+. $25 (From Limestone Creek, Te Muna Road This youthful, medium- owned by Greystone.) Vineyard bodied wine is citrusy, Spy Valley $22 (A) Martinborough slightly biscuity and Marlborough Riesling buttery, in a cool-climate Pinot Noir Rosé Toi Toi Clutha 2014 HHH1/2 style with fresh acidity 2015 HHH1/2 Central Otago Pinot Aromatic, fresh and and a creamy texture. Still very youthful, this Noir 2014 HHH1/2 Vavasour lively, this youthful, Best drinking mid-2016+. pale pink wine was Grown near Cromwell Marlborough Pinot light-bodied wine was $30 (UK, US) made from hand-picked and oak-aged for six Noir 2013 HHHH hand-picked at 19.8 brix grapes, with some use months, this ruby hued, This powerful red is and made in an off-dry Mt Beautiful North of barrel fermentation. mouthfilling red has full-coloured and sweet- style (7.3 grams/litre Canterbury Pinot Medium-bodied, it has generous, ripe cherry fruited, with strong, residual sugar). Racy, Noir 2014 HHH1/2 fresh, gentle strawberry, and plum flavours. A plummy, spicy flavours with very good depth Enjoyable young, this peach and spice moderately complex and finely balanced of lemon/lime flavours is a light ruby red, with flavours, showing a style with gentle acidity tannins. Full-bodied and and a slightly minerally moderately concentrated, touch of complexity, and and a smooth finish, it’s concentrated, it’s well thread, it’s well worth ripe cherry, plum and a crisp, dry finish. $23 a drink-now or cellaring worth cellaring. $31 (A, cellaring; open 2017+. spice flavours, a hint (A, UK) proposition. $27 (A, US) UK, US $27 (A, UK) of dried herbs, some savoury complexity, and a Stoneleigh Toi Toi BEST VALUE Goldwater Wairau well-rounded finish. $34 Marlborough Marlborough BUYS Valley Marlborough (UK, US) Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Noir 2014 HHH1/2 2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 Priced sharply, this is This tangy, medium- Still unfolding, this deep a mouthfilling, slightly bodied wine is very ruby, mouthfilling red creamy wine with fresh and lively, with has very good depth considerable complexity. melon/lime flavours of ripe plum and spice Still youthful, it has very showing very good flavours, showing some good depth of peachy, poise and depth. $18 nutty complexity, and citrusy, biscuity flavour (A, US) finely balanced tannins. and a finely balanced, Worth cellaring. $23 (A, smooth finish. $17 UK, US) November/December 2015 WINES TATE 115

MICHAEL COOPER  Peter Yealands Thistle Ridge Waipara Pinot Gris Marlborough Pinot Gris 2015 HHH 2014 HHH Brancott Estate THE WOLF BLASS Flight Waipara A good, all-purpose A drink-young style, this medium-bodied, white, full-bodied, FOUNDATION Riesling 2014 HHH fresh and rounded. vibrantly fruity wine has Crisp and lively, this Moderately priced, it has citrusy, slightly peachy Established 1994 light wine (9 per cent vibrant, peachy, slightly and spicy flavours, alcohol) is gently sweet, showing good depth. spicy flavours, well- with satisfying depth of balanced, smooth and (From Greystone.) $19 tangy, citrusy flavours, dry. $16 (A, UK, US) (A) showing a touch of bottle-aged complexity. Saint Clair Vicar’s Yealands Estate $17 Choice Marlborough Single Vineyard Merlot 2014 HHH Awatere Valley Dashwood Enjoyable young, this is Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot a vibrant, ‘fruit-driven’ Noir Rosé 2015 HHH Noir 2014 HHH style of red, grown in This lively wine is from Enjoyable young, this the Wairau Valley and young, estate-grown is a blend of Awatere seasoned with American vines in ‘New Zealand’s Valley and Wairau Valley oak. Still purple-flushed, most coastal vineyard’ grapes. Ruby hued, it it has fresh, berryish at Seaview, in the lower is mouthfilling, with flavours to the fore, Awatere Valley. Pink and cherry, plum, spice and with hints of plums and smooth, it has fresh, red herb flavours, showing a spices, gentle tannins berry flavours to the fore, touch of complexity, and and a smooth finish. hints of spices and herbs, a smooth finish. $20 $19.50 balanced acidity and a dry (A, UK, US) finish. $23 (A, UK) Stoneleigh BEST VALUE Giesen Classic Wild Valley BUYS Cuvée 2014 HHH Marlborough This fresh, crisp and Pinot Noir lively bubbly was made 2014 HHH from chardonnay, grown This ruby hued red in the Wairau Valley, was grown at Rapaura Marlborough. It’s a and fermented with stimulating aperitif, not indigenous yeasts complex, but citrusy and (hence the ‘Wild’ slightly sweet, in a very Valley). Mouthfilling and attractive, refreshing smooth, it has decent style. $20 (A) depth of fresh berry, plum and spice flavours, Giesen New Zealand showing some savoury Pinot Gris 2015 HHH complexity. Best This easy-drinking drinking mid-2016+. wine is a blend of $19 Marlborough and Hawke's Bay fruit. Supper Club Central Tank-fermented and Otago Pinot Noir lees-aged, it is fresh and 2014 HHH medium-bodied, with Enjoyable young, this citrusy, peachy, slightly regional blend was spicy flavours, slightly mostly grown in the sweet and crisp, and Cromwell Basin, with satisfying depth. Good smaller parcels from for this summer. $17 Gibbston and Alexandra. (A, UK, US) Hand-harvested and matured in French oak Paddy Borthwick barriques (15% new), New Zealand it is ruby hued, with Proudly Supporting Riesling 2014 HHH mouthfilling body, •Australian Wine Education, Grown at Gladstone, satisfying depth of •Viticultural, Oenological this single-vineyard plummy flavours, a hint Wairarapa wine is fresh Research & Development, and citrusy, in a youthful, of dried herb flavours, and a moderately firm •Wine & Health, slightly sweet style finish. $20 •Global Wine with lively acidity and good flavour depth. Best Industry Profile drinking mid-2016+. $22 phone +61 8 8232 5322 [email protected] 116 WINES TATE November/December 2015

CIAO ITALIA! Italy 2016 FOOD & WINE TOUR OF ITALY 17 September - 3 October 2016 - in conjunction with The Australian newspaper & Travelrite International. Hosted by Winestate editor/publisher, Peter Simic, and managing editor, Lara Simic, the 15-night tour from mid-September features fascinating and informative visits to Rome, Umbria (Orvieto) and fabulous Tuscany (Montalcino & Montepulciano) for Brunello and Chianti, with visits to Siena and Florence. Across the way we take in the food bowl of Italy at Palma and Bologna. After all that food a side trip to seaside Portafino (Santa Margherita) gives us a break, before we move on to the spectacular Piedmont wine region (Alba), for delicious Barolo and Barbarescos. We will sample the wines, meet the winemakers and enjoy local cuisine (some at hosted winery lunches) while exploring towns and villages in the best Italian tradition. We stay in quality hotels in Rome, Siena, Florence, Parma, Santa Margherita, Alba and Milan. Included in the tour are four superb Winestate Celebration dinners at starred Michelin restaurants. Peter Simic will open doors not normally available to tourists and ensure that you have a rewarding and exciting time in outstanding surroundings. Peter’s knowledgeable and caring leadership will make this one of our best ever Wine & Food holidays! AD_Tour of Italy 2016 FPC.indd 1 2/09/2015 11:31:32 AM

GRANGUSTO Developed to assist venues with their portion control, these all-purpose glasses assist to reduce the alcohol odours within the wine, allowing the pleasant characteristics of the wines aromas to rise to the opening. The aeration of the wine is properly balanced due to the triangular shape of the contact surface. Each glass features 3 discrete pour-lines allowing for the correct measure to the pour.

AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND the wine & spirit insider November/December 2015 Issue 144 COMPLIMENTARY COPY THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 SOUTH AUSTRALIA THE WINE STATE In this issue... New Releases & $ Best Value Buys Under 20 OPEN THE DOOR TO PREMIUM WINE

134 TASTED 76 AWARDED NEW RELEASES Another excellent new release line-up with the most consistent SAUVIGNON PINOT GRIS/ results coming from a resurgent chardonnay class, excellent BLANC & GRIGIO cabernets and signature 2013 shiraz showing the strength of the BLENDS 4 TASTED vintage. Some nice alternative varietals also. 8 TASTED 1 AWARDED 3 AWARDED One nice quaffer - the The judges thought rest lacked character and SPARKLING OTHER WHITE Heritage Wines these wines generally flavour. 6 TASTED VARIETALS & Granite Belt lacked fruit character Yarran Riverina Marsanne Pinot Grigio with movement away 2 AWARDED 2013 HHH1/2 BLENDS Fresh lifted varietal from 'grassiness' but 2015 HHH A nice quaffer with a A couple of good quality 11 TASTED fruit bouquet and overdoing it. clean simple fruit nose proseccos. Forget the 6 AWARDED excellent depth of Bird in Hand and fresh crunchy apple peaches and cream palate. $14 rest! flavours on the well- Adelaide Hills The best showed structured palate. $22.50 Sauvignon Blanc Dal Zotto varietal characters which 2015 HHH1/2 RIESLING BEST L'Immigrante King is what alternative Cirami VALUE Firm, full, long and 10 TASTED Valley Prosecco Riverland BUYS balanced wine with 6 AWARDED 2014 HHH1/2 varieties have to deliver Albarino 2015 HHH herbaceous fragrances Big estery nose with fruit to set themselves apart Interesting style with and fresh fruit flavours. salad-like aromas and a from the dry whites. rich ripe fruit complexity A drink now style. $25 Strong class of \"beautiful long clean palate with an enhanced with some wines\", said the judges. alert acid finish. $36 Sandalford Estate feral notes. $15 Jane Brook Estate \"The best value white Reserve Margaret Shovelgate Vineyard Dal Zotto Pucino River Verdelho Sandalford Margaret River wine on the market,\" Vintage King Valley 2015 HHHH Winemakers Sauvignon Blanc said one judge. Prosecco 2014 HHH Light lifted lychee Margaret River 2015 HHH1/2 Clean simple style with fragrances and a fresh Classic White Punchy and complex Bird in Hand some complexity on the fruity palate showing 2015 HHH with interesting Clare Valley Riesling nose and soft creamy good balance and weight Punchy tropical aromas herbaceous nose 2015 HHHH1/2 palate. $23 of fruit with a good acid and zesty lime palate and good varietal A very light perfumed backbone. $25 with some oak and a flavours with a hint of note to the citrussy firm finish. $15 sweetness. $23 aromas. It's elegant Grand Casino and flinty on the palate Barossa Valley Fiano Spring Vale Tasmania Sandalford Estate with zesty lime juice Reserve Margaret 2015 HHHH Gewurztraminer River Sauvignon and apple-like flavours. An attractive lift of 2015 HHH Just needs time to settle fruit salad-like aromas Delicate rose petal Blanc Semillon down. $25 with a good length of freshness to the nose 2015 HHH creamy apple and melon and very light varietal A light simple quaffer flavours showing a hint fruit palate. $28 with a pungent punch of herbs. $26 of aromas and a confectionery sweet palate. $25 JUDGES - DAY 1 Stephen John Marcus Hoffer Kate Giles Owner/winemaker of Cellar Manager for Lloyd Director, Claritas Stephen John Wines. Brothers Wine & Olive Marketing and More than 30 years’ Company. Has vintaged at Sales & Marketing winemaking experience. Coldstream Hills, Yarra Valley; Wine Consultant. Has judged at Adelaide, at Sirromet, Queensland; Has vintaged in National, and Barossa McLaren Vintners and Classic Italy and judged at wine shows. Regular McLaren Wines. Associate Tall Timbers wine Winestate panellist and judge at the Adelaide Hills show in Western chairman of judges at the wine show. Previously three Australia. Winestate Wine of the years on Dan Murphy’s Year Awards. judging panel. 120 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spir it insider tasting Crabtree Wines SEMILLON & Bird in Hand Grampians Estate PINOT NOIR Watervale Clare Adelaide Hills Mafeking Gold 10 TASTED Valley Riesling BLENDS Chardonnay Grampians 3 AWARDED 2015 HHHH1/2 5 TASTED 2014 HHHH Chardonnay A very classy wine with 3 AWARDED Very stylish number with 2014 HHH fresh lifted aromatics; all lots of oak. Toasty and Chablis-like with its Some good examples limes and lemons with a buttery on the nose, complexity of creamy here but they are few touch of spice. Excellent A small solid class creamy in the mouth fruit, light oak and crisp flavour depth and moving away from with a very complex acidity. $22 and far between. The showing lovely delicacy herbaceous characters. flavour profile. $42 good wines showed of varietal fruit. $26 Bellbrae Estate freshness, good varietal McPherson Wines Boobs Geelong Bird in Hand fruit and texture. The Bream Creek Two in the Bush Sunburnt Central Chardonnay Tasmania Riesling Adelaide Hills Victoria Chardonnay 2014 HHH rest were either over- 2014 HHHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignon 2014 HHHH A big \"Dolly Parton\" of extracted or lacked Lovely ripe lime juice Blanc 2015 HHHH1/2 Beautiful complexity to a chardonnay; a rich old depth of character. nose with toast and Very pale green hues the balanced fruit/oak Aussie style. $33 marmalade characters with lifted aromas of aromas. Great creamy Montara Jimmy developing. Loads of cut grass and tinned mouthfeel to the palate ROSÉ Black Grampians almond and apricot peas and hints of herbs. with good oak tannins Pinot Noir flavour on the elegant Palate has freshness and on the finish. $17.99 6 TASTED 2014 HHH1/2 palate with lots of fresh balance with excellent 3 AWARDED Spicy and elegant acidity to balance. $26 Taylors St Andrews grassy/herbal flavour Clare Valley with an excellent length. Great quaffer. $23 Some good quaffers to mix of raspberry and Crabtree Wines Chardonnay strawberry fruit, some Hilltop Vineyard Sandalford Margaret 2014 HHHH be had here. earthiness and lovely Clare Valley Riesling River Range Classic Attractive green hues texture. $20 2015 HHHH Dry White Margaret to this complex, yet Bird in Hand Lovely lift of lime and River Semillon elegant, chardonnay. Adelaide Hills Pinot St Erth Select lemon fragrances on Sauvignon Blanc Limes and oak on the Rosé 2015 HHH1/2 Vineyard Geelong the nose and a very nose and a long stylish Fresh, complex and Pinot Noir classy, firm, complex 2015 HHH oaky palate. $35 very interesting with a 2013 HHH Light and fruity on the and crunchy lime nose and fresh, softly strawberry bouquet and Advanced honeyed palate. $21.50 Heritage Wines fresh lively confectionery textured, green apple Reserve Granite fruit flavour profile. $25 aromas and a simple Robert Stein palate. $20 Belt Chardonnay lightweight palate showing some meaty Mudgee Riesling Shaw Vineyard 2014 HHH1/2 Yarrawood Tall Tales notes. $15 2015 HHH Estate Reserve Big complex barrel Yarra Valley Rosé Light, fresh and elegant Canberra District ferment style of 2015 HHH Bellbrae Estate Bird perfumed citrus style chardonnay with lovely An attractive, simple, Rock Geelong Pinot has some sweetness Semillon 2015 HHH aromas and offering dry style of wine with Noir 2013 HHH Broad complexity of with alert acid to tropical aromas with a huge mouthful of lots of fresh strawberry Huge herbal nose and a balance. $35 flavour. $36 characters. $19 tight, stylish appley long complex and spicy Montara Jimmy palate. Needs time. $35 Sandalford Margaret Howard Vineyard palate with a cola-like element. $36 Black Grampians River Range Picnic Adelaide Hills Riesling 2014 HHH CHARDONNAY Margaret River Rosé 2015 HHH Beautiful toasty 10 TASTED Chardonnay Very pale pink with a honeycomb-like aged 7 AWARDED 2015 HHH light confectionery nose characters with complex Simple tropical melon and clean simple palate; balance of sweetness bouquet with a fresh subtle flavours. $20 and acidity. $20 An excellent and exciting light and simple appley group. \"If you are after palate. $20 a great class of whites look at these again,\" enthused one judge. JUDGES - DAY 2 Stephen John Scott Rawlinson Mark Van Halderen Owner/winemaker of Senior winemaker Fleurieu Winemaker at Yalumba Stephen John Wines. Vintners & Boar’s Rock Wines. Formerly More than 30 years’ Winery. Former chief winemker in South Africa winemaking experience. winemaker Serafino for nine years plus French Has judged at Adelaide, Wines, McLaren Vale. vintage experience. National, and Barossa Previously winemaker with Judged at South wine shows. Regular Mildara at Jamieson’s Run African Veritas Show, Winestate panellist and and Wolf Blass. Associate Winemaker's Choice chairman of judges at judge at Canberra wine Awards, Wine Magazine the Winestate Wine of shows and vintaged in & Michelangelo Wine the Year Awards. Northern California. Awards. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 121

NEW RELEASES OTHER RED GRENACHE CABERNET Sandalford Margaret Taylors Clare Valley River Range VARIETALS & & BLENDS SAUVIGNON & Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH BLENDS 5 TASTED BLENDS Cabernet Merlot Very youthful and tannic 2014 HHHH1/2 with bright cassis fruit. 6 TASTED 2 AWARDED 13 TASTED An alert and classy Needs more time to 4 AWARDED 9 AWARDED number with an evolve. $19 The standouts showing attractive minty lift to A small but good class the excellence of Excellent class. the blackberry-like nose Montara Jimmy with some very powerful Black Grampians of Mediterranean grenache for blending, \"Cabernet is still king,\" varietal flavours on a very Cabernet Sauvignon varietals, and one French the others were just too said one judge. Both complex palate. $20 2013 HHH one, showing powerful, simple to rate. 2013 and 2014 are Bird in Hand Nest Complexity of rich fruit cake characters mixed well-handled flavours. Grampians Estate excellent vintages for Egg Adelaide Hills with blackberry jam and GST Grampians this variety and the Cabernet Sauvignon black pepper. Needs Bird in Hand Grenache Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 cellaring. $20 Adelaide Hills Tempranillo good fruit and good A wine with years ahead Nero D'Avola 2014 HHHH winemaking shows. of it. Great colour and Taylors St Andrews 2014 HHHH1/2 A fresh estery fruit Those that didn't make complex cedary/cigar Clare Valley Gorgeous dried fig and bouquet and a stylish the grade were too box nose. Super palate, Cabernet Sauvignon chocolate-like complexity palate that's complex, great structure, lots of 2012 HHH on the nose and light long and well-balanced. green and hard. oak but has quality fruit Hints of soy and spices cola/Sarsaparilla-like A great wine to serve at to balance it. $110 on the nose. Firm oaky characters on a palate lunch. $28 palate. Good food wine that's rich, long and for drinking now. $65 balanced with hints of Hemera Estate vanilla. $42 Single Vineyard SHIRAZ & Barossa Valley Bird in Hand G.S.M. 2013 HHHH BLENDS Adelaide Hills Big, rich fruit cake of a Montepulciano nose with a sweet and 30 TASTED 2014 HHHH1/2 spicy palate with soft 21 AWARDED An intense inky chocolaty flavours. $35 Christmas cake bouquet An outstanding class! and a complex tannic palate with great dark MERLOT & Great vintages from fruit flavours showing BLENDS 2013 and 2014 showing lovely spiciness and consistency across the freshness. \"Yummy,\" 4 TASTED was one comment. $42 2 AWARDED board with intensity of vibrant ripe fruit, Buller Wines great structure and Balladeer Rutherglen Small class with a complexity. Tempranillo couple of nice quaffers. 2014 HHH1/2 Dark strawberry bouquet Shaw Family Taylors Clare Valley with spicy/herbal notes Vintners Moonraker Montara Gold Shiraz 2014 HHHHH A beautiful wine offering and a lovely palate with McLaren Vale Merlot Rush Grampians Mollydooker excellent value for chocolaty plum flavours 2014 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon The Maitre'D money. A powerful and great tannins. $30 Fresh plum and spicy 2013 HHHHH McLaren Vale red berry fruit, hints of Rich ripe blackberry jam Cabernet Sauvignon and complex nose of Buller Wines leather and a dash of bouquet with nice touch 2014 HHHH classy blackcurrant fruit Balladeer Rutherglen white pepper. $17 of cedary oak. Beautifully Lovely brooding plum and great oak. Soft in the mouth with bright Cinsault 2014 HHH structured palate that and fresh oak bouquet. chocolaty fruit flavours. Light spicy berry fruit Taylors Clare Valley still shows excellent Beautiful chocolaty 5+ $19 aromas and a soft Merlot 2014 HHH freshness and great palate with great depth and uncomplicated Spicy and chocolaty on depth of classy varietal of the very rich varietal Currency Creek lightweight palate. $30 the nose with a simple fruit flavours. $25 fruit characters. $28 primary fruit palate. Estate Ostrich Hill $19 Taylors Jaraman Currency Creek Currency Creek Clare Valley Estate Eternal Shiraz 2014 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Springs Currency Rich, ripe and chocolaty 2013 HHHHH Creek Cabernet with hints of fruit salad- Intense red colour Blend 2014 HHHH like characters on the verging on black and Lovely lift of cabernet nose and obvious oak - all showing powerful cassis/ fruit aromas with sweet of which is echoed on the cedary aromas. Fresh oak and hints of violets. slightly raw palate. Shows and tight in the mouth The palate is firm and great potential. $30 with intense yet elegant flavoursome. Needs flavour profile. $29 more time to shine. $30 122 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spir it insider tasting Grampians Estate McPherson Wines Garden Gully Basilisk Central Vineyard Barrell Victoria Shiraz Block Grampians Mourvedre Shiraz 2013 HHHHH 2014 HHHH Complex nose with Amazing crimson/purple some great oak and hues with powerful elegant fruit aromas mulberry jam fragrances which is echoed on and great depth of the beautiful ripe rich flavour on an alert and chocolaty palate. This stylish palate. $17.99 is the complete “Best package. $50 McPherson Wines Don't Tell Gary McPherson Grampians Shiraz Barossa BEST Wines Curious VALUE 2014 HHHH BUYS South Eastern A full, firm and lengthy Australia Shiraz style of shiraz with Shiraz” 2014 HHHH1/2 lovely rich black and Excellent bright purple/ blue fruit characters red wine with a nose of and a well-structured rich ripe red berry fruits and very flavoursome and new oak. The well- palate. $23.99 structured palate has ripe red berry and tobacco Mistletoe Hilltops flavours. $14.99 Shiraz 2013 HHHH Strong wine with plenty of beautiful Cherry Ripe-like fruit layered with new oak. Complex aromas and flavours. Needs time. $24 Montara Gold Rush Grampians Shiraz 2013 HHHH Dense and peppery on the nose and a huge palate with plenty of sweet oak and rich fruit and barrel ferment complexity. $25 Grampians Estate Garden Gully Mals Vineyard Block 8 Pyrenees Shiraz 2013 HHHH Ripe rich cherry berry- like fruit layered with Mollydooker Two nut milk chocolate Left Feet McLaren characters and good oak Vale Shiraz Cabernet complexity. Good tannin Merlot 2014 HHHH structure. $35 Big rich chocolaty wine that has lots of Bellbrae Estate jubey blackcurrant fruit Bells Geelong characters, some nice Syrah 2013 HHHH spiciness and good A vanillin oak bomb of overall structure. $28 a wine that has barrel ferment complexity and Yarran Riverina some great varietal fruit. Heathcote Shiraz It is a soft and elegant 2014 HHHH shiraz. $36 A ripe black forest cake of a shiraz with fruit that is bright and fresh, the oak that is sweet and the tannins that are lovely and soft. $14 HEMERAESTATE.COM.AU The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 123

NEW RELEASES Mudgee Wines Old Bush Vine Mudgee Shiraz Cabernet 2013 HHH A simple wine with earthy notes, some green fruit and hints of herbs. Good tannin balance. $50 SWEET WHITES & FORTIFIEDS 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED Attractive solid class A new of sweet, after dinner, Aussie style wines. Australian Parous Barossa High Roller VALUE Mudgee Wines BEST Valley Shiraz Reserve South BUYS Durif Mudgee VP Australia Shiraz 2012 HHHH Colour looks mature and Grenache 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH Excellent purple wine. blend. it smells like a Cherry A well-made quaffer Lovely jammy nose and Ripe chocolate bar. The with simple lifted well-structured sweet flavoursome palate is confectionery fruit and and flavoursome palate. elegant and supple with tea leaf-like notes. $9 Drying finish. $20 DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, lovely texture. $40 yet refreshingly earthy new legal Bird in Hand “blend” created by the former Montara Chalambar Honeysuckle partners of the respected South Road Grampians Clare Valley Riesling Australian firms of Donaldson Walsh Shiraz 2010 HHHH 2015 HHH and Fox Tucker. A nose with leathery Simple citrus aromatics cigar-box-like aromas and a supple and simple Our bold new offering is built on a with a complex, oak- refreshing semi-sweet full-bodied foundation of vast general driven palate that is long palate. $25 commercial experience, yet overlaid and elegant. $70 with distinctive specialist expertise Hemera Estate K1 by Geoff Hardy in a number of key industries and Barossa Valley Adelaide Hills Autumn Harvest niche market sectors. Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Riesling 2015 HHH Lots of potential here Complex, rich and It’s a winning combination that with its great colour, allows every client who opens a intense ripe red berry honeyed aromas and an elegant, not overly “case” to get exactly what they fruit and spicy chocolaty sweet, palate with nice need. So whatever your business oak characters. $40 acidity. $20 or legal objectives, don’t hesitate to contact us. McPherson Wines McPherson BEST BUYS At DW Fox Tucker, every Family South VALUE client matters. Eastern Australia Shiraz 2014 HHH Parous McLaren An unusual style with Vale Shiraz Mataro a powerful toasty 2014 HHH oak nose and a solid Big jammy nose and a intensely flavoured tight palate loaded with L14, 100 King William Street palate. $10.99 very alert primary fruit flavours. $35 Adelaide SA 5000 Yarran Leopardwood p: +61 8 8124 1811 Heathcote Shiraz Montara Jimmy e: [email protected] 2014 HHH Black Grampians dwfoxtucker.com.au A simple but very Shiraz 2013 HHH attractive, one Stylish young wine with dimensional, wine with lovely rich Christmas COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE lots of ripe jammy fruit cake-like fruit and vanillin DISPUTES | INSOLVENCY | TAX | IP characters. $20 oak. Needs time. $20 EMPLOYMENT | WORKERS COMPENSATION SELF INSURANCE | PROPERTY 124 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

INVITATIONS NOW OPEN! The best of South Australia at the world’s biggest international wine exhibition 10 - 13 April 2016 Market your wines to the world! Join the Australian Wine Industry Export and Buyers mission to Verona in 2015 Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March 2015 The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready companies and for buyers sourcing international wines. Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyers sourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western and Eastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America. The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne is the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to Australian wine industry professionals attending the show: - Space and stand bookings at preferential rates - Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona - Logistics Winestate Magazine will host ten South Australian - Visitor registration wineries at Vinitaly 50th Edition 2016. ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for Contact [email protected] for further details. the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. For more information contact: Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Bottega Vini Dei Poeti Amber Rock Special Trentham Estate River Syn Cuvee Blanc McLaren DOC Treviso Italy Cuvee Victoria Brut Retreat Murray Darling Vale Coonawarra Prosecco NV Reserve NV Chardonnay Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV Brut NV Nashi pear aromas and a A flowery lift to the nose Stylish, complex citrus aromas very varietal green apple- and quite a fruity palate with Delicate melon bouquet with with light melon notes. Good like palate offering some some nice nuttiness. $13.99 strawberry notes. Good palate balance between the acid, yeast refreshing quaffing. $19.99 structure with good fresh fruit and fruit on the palate. $18 Winetrust Estates Pty Ltd and balancing acidity. $12 Festival City Wine Phone: +61 2 9949 9250 Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +61 8 8349 1200 Email: [email protected] Trentham Estate Phone: +61 8 8323 8830 Email: [email protected] Web: www.winetrustestates.com Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: [email protected] Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au E: [email protected] Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND TO QUALIFY Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are still available - remain 1 Wines must have first been recommended $20& UNDER will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or comprises the best wines currently available, from big- blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ 2 Wines from designated regional tastings from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate are eligible provided they are widely available. Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in the that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. more expensive cousins. 126 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Syn Rouge Coonawarra Cirami Estate Riverland Overstone Hawke's Bay Sileni Cellar Selection Sparkling Shiraz NV Albarino 2015 Pinot Gris 2014 Hawke's Bay Pinot Gris 2014 Slightly earthy/forest floor Interesting style with rich ripe Solid, dryish wine, fragrances with rich fruit cake- fruit complexity enhanced medium-bodied, with fresh Medium to full-bodied, with like flavour complexity. $18 with some feral notes. $15 acidity and ripe, peachy a gentle splash of sweetness flavours, balanced for easy and good depth of peach, Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd Cirami Estate drinking. Good value. $13 pear and spice flavours, Phone: +61 8 8323 8830 Phone: +61 8 8583 5366 balanced for easy drinking. $16 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Sileni Estate Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Web: www.ciramiestate.com.au Phone: +64 6 879 8768 Sileni Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 6 879 8768 Web: www.sileni.co.nz Email: [email protected] Web: www.sileni.co.nz The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 127

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Stoneleigh Wild Valley Toi Toi Marlborough Midnight's Promise James Estate The Wild Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Hunter Valley Estate Hunter Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Semillon 2014 Verdelho 2014 Blanc 2015 This tangy, medium-bodied wine is very fresh and lively, with A pleasing tightly packed Very appealing spirited Showing lots of personality. melon/lime flavours showing citrussy fruit package with lots of punchy tropical nose. A good The bouquet is punchy, with very good poise and depth. $18 promise but also offering good mix and length of tropical some complexity; the palate drinking right now. 5+ $18 flavours with well retained mouthfilling, very fresh Marlborough Wine Ltd t/a Toi Toi acidity. 3-5 $18 and vibrant, with incisive, Wines Midnight's Promise Estate & Wines ripe, tropical fruit flavours, Phone: +64 9 972 9498 Phone: +61 2 9235 3947 James Estate crisp, dry and lingering. $19 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Web: www.toitoiwines.co.nz Web: www.midnightspromise.com.au Email: [email protected] Pernod Ricard New Zealand Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Phone: +64 9 336 8368 E: [email protected] Web: www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com 128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Tempus Two Hunter Gartelmann Jessica James Estate The Hugo Estate Grown Valley Verdelho 2015 Hunter Valley Estate Hunter Valley McLaren Vale Cuvee NV Verdelho 2015 Chardonnay 2012 Lovely bright looking wine with A light spicy style of sparkling fresh tropical/melon aromas Very inviting flinty fruit A lean Chablis-like style of wine with savoury overtones and and very youthful upfront salad bouquet. Nice texture with typical chardonnay aromas some minerally flintiness. $20 tropical palate. Shows plenty and flavours on the clean and flavours. \"Be great with of promise. 3-5 $17 tight palate. 3-5 $20 seafood,\" thought one judge. $18 Hugo Wines Phone: +61 8 8383 0098 Australian Vintage Limited Gartelmann Wines James Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8172 8333 Phone: +61 2 4930 7113 Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Web: www.hugowines.com.au E: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.avl.com.au Web: www.gartelmann.com.au Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Hoggies Estate Sileni Cellar Selection Hoggies Estate DiGiorgio Family Coonawarra Hawke's Bay Coonawarra Riesling 2013 Kongorong Mt Gambier Chardonnay 2013 Chardonnay 2014 Riesling 2015 Good complexity of lemon Earthy and spicy on the nose Fruit-driven style with aromas and nice fresh Citrussy lift to the floral nose followed by a lovely rich, full- vibrant, ripe, peachy flavours green apple flavours with and good depth and persistence bodied, fruit-driven palate. $14.50 to the fore and plenty of slight chalky grip. $14.50 of apple, citrus and herbal drink-young appeal. $16 flavours, high in acid. $19 Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Phone: 0418 854102 Sileni Estate Phone: 0418 854102 DiGiorgio Family Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 6 879 8768 Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8736 3222 Web: www.hoggieswine.com Email: [email protected] Web: www.hoggieswine.com Email: [email protected] Web: www.sileni.co.nz Web: www.digiorgio.com.au We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au 130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER AD_Subscribe to Winestate (glasses) QPH.indd 1 11/11/2014 11:06:09 PM

James Estate The Estate James Estate The Estate James Estate The Estate James Estate The Estate Hunter Valley Rosé 2013 Hunter Valley Cabernet Hunter Valley Merlot 2011 Hunter Valley Petit Verdot Franc 2013 2013 Dry firm style of rose with A lighter style with soft very tight acidity holding Old world style bright with merlot fruit aromas and True to style. Nice aromas. down the fruit characters. savoury fruit. Firm grippy palate earthy plum flavours. $18 Great palate structure and Has some balanced tannins. with slight green edge. $18 balance. Loads of tannins. $18 Definitely a food wine. $18 James Estate James Estate James Estate James Estate Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au We have to wash SUBSCRIBE TO over 32,000 OUR COMPLETE wine glasses each year ... PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full so you don’t have to. on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au online order, www.winestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131 AD_Subscribe to Winestate (glasses) QPH.indd 1 11/11/2014 11:06:09 PM

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Overstone Hawke's Bay Stoneleigh Wild James Estate The Estate Mt. Monster Limestone Pinot Noir 2014 Valley Wild Fermented Hunter Valley Cabernet Coast Shiraz 2014 Marlborough Pinot Sauvignon 2011 Bright ruby, mouthfilling and Noir 2014 Easy drinking style with quite supple red with fresh, lively, Dense berry aromas and intense fruit/oak aromas and plummy, slightly spicy flavours. Mouthfilling and smooth, it has flavours layered with earthy lovely soft earthy fruit flavours Fine value. (From Sileni.) $13 decent depth of fresh berry, notes and cigar box oak. $18 with tight tannins. $16.95 plum and spice flavours, showing Sileni Estate some savoury complexity. James Estate Morambro Creek Wines Phone: +64 6 879 8768 Best drinking mid-2016+. $19 Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Phone: +61 8 8723 1065 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.sileni.co.nz Pernod Ricard New Zealand Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Web: www.mtmonster.com.au Phone: +64 9 336 8368 E: [email protected] Web: www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com PUBLIC TASTING Friday 15th January 2016 - 6pm - 8.30pm - Hyatt Regency Perth Tickets $50 - Subscribers contact: [email protected] to claim a FREE ticket or for further details. 132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

McPherson Wines Curious James Estate The Estate McPherson Wines Highroller Reserve South Eastern Australia Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 McPherson Family South Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2014 South Eastern Australia Grenache 2014 Good old style Hunter shiraz Shiraz 2014 Excellent bright purple/red with smoky oak dominating A well-made quaffer with wine with a nose of rich ripe the nose. The palate is soft An unusual style with a powerful simple lifted confectionery red berry fruits and new and elegant with berry cherry toasty oak nose and a solid fruit and tea leaf-like notes. $9 oak. The well structured flavours and a relatively intensely flavoured palate. $10.99 palate has ripe red berry and soft finish. 3-5 $18 Byrne Vineyards (SA) tobacco flavours. $14.99 McPherson Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +61 419 856 768 James Estate Phone: +61 3 92630200 Email: [email protected] McPherson Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Email: [email protected] Web: www.byrnevineyards.com.au Phone: +61 3 92630200 Email: [email protected] Web: www.mcphersonwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Web: www.mcphersonwines.com.au AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND the wine & spirit Issue 144 | November/December 2015 Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care is Managing Editor taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Administration Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. Lisa McPike E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Copyright 2015 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Tasting Coordinator This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, E-mail [email protected] Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any Website www.winestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

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contact det ails CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING Wicks Estate Wines Phone: +61 8 8389 9100 Email: [email protected] Agnew Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.wicksestate.com.au Phone: +61 2 4998 6776 Email: [email protected] Web: www.agnewwines.com.au HUNTER VALLEY Aldi Stores Web: www.aldiliquor.com.au Hungerford Hill Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +61 2 4998 7666 Buller Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 2 6032 9660 Web: www.hungerfordhill.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.bullerwines.com.au James Estate Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Bunnamagoo Estate Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 2 6373 3046 Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au E: [email protected] Web: www.bunnamagoowines.com.au Midnight’s Promise Estate & Wines Phone: +61 2 9235 3947 Champagne Drappier Email: [email protected] Phone: +33 (0)3 25 27 40 15 Web: www.midnightspromise.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.champagne-drappier.com Pokolbin Estate Vineyard Phone: +61 2 4998 7524 Domaine Chandon Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 3 9738 9219 Web: www.pokolbinestate.com.au E: [email protected] Web: www.chandon.com HAWKE’S BAY Festival City Wine Phone: +61 8 8349 1200 Email: [email protected] Clearview Estate (NZ) Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au Phone: +64 6 875 0150 Email: [email protected] Gallagher Wines Web: www.clearviewestate.co.nz Phone: +61 412 699 830 Email: [email protected] Elephant Hill Web: www.gallagherwines.com.au Phone: +64 6 873 0400 Email: [email protected] Longview Vineyard Web: www.elephanthill.co.nz Phone: +61 8 8388 9694 Email: [email protected] Pernod Ricard New Zealand Web: www.longviewvineyard.com.au Phone: +64 9 336 8368 Email: [email protected] Mistletoe Wines Web: www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com Phone: +61 2 4998 7770 Email: [email protected] Fine wine’s Web: www.mistletoe.com.au LIMESTONE COAST Pernod Ricard Australia favourite line. Phone: +61 2 8874 8354 Bowen Estate E: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8737 2229 Email: [email protected] Pernod Ricard Winemakers Pty Ltd Web: www.bowenestate.com.au Phone: +61 8 8131 2559 Australia’s top brands have a nose for Email: [email protected] DiGiorgio Family Wines Web: www.pernod-ricard-pacific.com Phone: +61 8 8736 3222 consistency and smoothness. And they Email: [email protected] Robert Oatley Vineyards Pty Ltd Web: www.digiorgio.com.au agree – the carrier of choice is Hamburg Süd. Phone: +61 2 9433 3255 Email: [email protected] Herbert Vineyard With our worldwide destinations, fixed-day Web: www.robertoatley.com.au Phone: +61 404 849 080 Email: [email protected] weekly services, schedule reliability, logistics Taltarni Vineyards Web: www.herbertvineyard.com.au Phone: +61 3 5459 7915 expertise and first class cargo care, our Email: [email protected] Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Web: www.taltarni.com.au Richard Hamilton service is exemplary. Phone: +61 8 8323 8830 Tendil & Lombardi Champagne Email: [email protected] Hamburg Süd. In a word, quality. Email: [email protected] Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Web: www.tendiletlombardi.com Majella Wines Trentham Estate Phone: +61 8 8736 3055 Phone: +61 3 5024 8888 Email: [email protected] E: [email protected] Web: www.majellawines.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au www.hamburgsud-line.com November/December 2015 WINES TATE 135

contact det ails Morambro Creek Wines Mt Beautiful Phone: +61 8 8723 1065 Phone: +64 3 319 2993 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.mtbeautiful.co.nz Web: www.mtmonster.com.au Web: www.jipjiprocks.com.au PINOT NOIR Patrick of Coonawarra Phone: +61 8 8737 3687 Email: [email protected] Akarua Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Phone: +64 3 445 0897 Email: [email protected] Pernod Ricard Winemakers Pty Ltd Web: www.akarua.com Phone: +61 8 8131 2559 Email: [email protected] Foley Family Wines Limited Web: www.pernod-ricard-pacific.com Phone: +64 2 7527 7338 Email: [email protected] Raidis Estate Web: www.foleyfamilywines.com Phone: +61 8 8737 2966 Email: [email protected] Jackson Estate NZ Web: www.raidis.com.au Phone: +64 3 572 9500 Email: [email protected] Winetrust Estates Pty Ltd Web: www.jacksonestate.co.nz Phone: +61 2 9949 9250 Email: [email protected] Kings of Kangaroo Ground Web: www.winetrustestates.com Phone: +61 3 9712 0666 Email: [email protected] Wood Block Wines Web: www.kkg.com.au Phone: +61 417 878 933 Email: [email protected] Lowburn Ferry Wines Web: www.woodblockwines.com.au Phone: +64 3 445 0846 Email: [email protected] Zema Estate Web: www.lowburnferry.co.nz Phone: +61 8 8736 3219 Email: [email protected] Negociants Australia Web: www.zema.com.au Phone: +61 8 8112 4200 Email: [email protected] Web: www.negociantsaustralia.com NEW RELEASES Scarpantoni Estate Wines Phone: +61 8 8383 0186 Mollydooker Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8323 6500 Web: www.scarpantoni-wines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.mollydookerwines.com.au Sirromet Wines Phone: +61 7 3822 0640 Montara Winery Email: [email protected] +61 3 5352 3868 Web: www.sirromet.com Email: [email protected] Web: www.montara.com.au BEST VALUE BUYS Parous Wines Australia Phone: +61 437 159 858 Email: [email protected] Australian Vintage Limited Web: www.parous.com.au Phone: +61 8 8172 8333 Email: [email protected] Web: www.avl.com.au NORTH EAST VICTORIA Byrne Vineyards (SA) Phone: +61 419 856 768 Rutherglen Estates Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 2 6032 7999 Web: www.byrnevineyards.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.rutherglenestates.com.au Cirami Estate Phone: +61 8 8583 5366 Email: [email protected] NEW ZEALAND RECENT RELEASE Web: www.ciramiestate.com.au DiGiorgio Family Wines Awatere River Wine Company Phone: +61 8 8736 3222 Phone: +64 3 575 7913 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] www.digiorgio.com.au Web: www.arwc.co.nz Festival City Wine Foley Family Wines Limited Phone: +61 8 8349 1200 Phone: +64 2 7527 7338 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au Web: www.foleyfamilywines.com 136 WINES TATE November/December 2015

Gartelmann Wines Midnight’s Promise Estate & Wines Phone: +61 2 4930 7113 Phone: +61 2 9235 3947 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Certified www.gartelmann.com.au Web: www.midnightspromise.com.au Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Morambro Creek Wines Phone: +61 418 854 102 Phone: +61 8 8723 1065 Organic Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.mtmonster.com.au Hugo Wines Wine of the Phone: +61 8 8383 0098 Pernod Ricard New Zealand Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 9 336 8368 Web: www.hugowines.com.au Email: [email protected] Year www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com James Estate Phone: +61 2 6547 5168 Sileni Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 6 879 8768 Australia Web: www.jamesestatewines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.sileni.co.nz Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard 2016 Hamilton Trentham Estate Phone: +61 8 8323 8830 Phone: +61 3 5024 8888 Email: [email protected] E: [email protected] Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Marlborough Wine Ltd t/a Toi Toi Wines Winetrust Estates Pty Ltd Phone: +64 9 972 9498 Phone: +61 2 9949 9250 Proudly Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.toitoiwines.co.nz Web: www.winetrustestates.com sponsored by WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X McPherson Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +61 3 9263 0200 Email: [email protected] NASAA and Web: www.mcphersonwines.com.au Organic Times SHIRAZ & SHIRAZ & BLENDS BLENDS 2011 & OLDER 2013 $20-$25 $15-$20 32 TASTED 5 TASTED 21 AWARDED 0 AWARDED CONGRATULATIONS A group of concentrated, Disappointing, but powerful wines with lots WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X www.nasaa.com.au of tannin. “At this price $20-$25 expected. At this price bracket wines are made point the consumer CATEGORY WINNER to be consumed early, wants a lot!” said one not cellared. judge. “After 2011 the SHIRAZ & SHIRAZ & winemakers’ trend was BLENDS SHIRAZ & to go for bigger styles.” BLENDS BLENDS 2011 & OLDER 2013 $20-$25 Many of these will age very well. 32 TASTED $15-$20 2014 $20-$25 21 AWARDED 5 TASTED Mother of Pearl 4 TASTED Shingleback Jack Estate 0 AWARDED Wrattonbully Shiraz 2 AWARDED Davey Estate Coonawarra A group of concentrated, 2012 HHH Reserve McLaren Wrattonbully Shiraz powerful wines with lots Nice nose; all plums A couple of nice Vale Shiraz 2013 HHHH Disappointing, but and menthol. Lively acid examples showing purity 2013 HHHH1/2 Almost black, intensely of tannin. “At this price expected. At this price palate with slight meaty point the consumer A huge powerful shiraz; long savoury shiraz. bracket wines are made fruit characters. $19 of fruit not overtaken by very dark, very primary Delicate cherry and plum wants a lot!” said one to be consumed early, the oak. ripe stewed plum fruit aromas and a fruit cake Fifth Estate judge. “After 2011 the characters layered with palate. Fine tannins and not cellared. Geographe Shiraz Paxton MV black olive elements creamy oak. $22 winemakers’ trend was 2012 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz and with plenty of to go for bigger styles.” SHIRAZ & Elegant and composed 2014 HHH1/2 grippy mouthcoating Fox Creek JSM Many of these will age with an ‘honest’ flavour Nice plum and clove-like tannins. Needs time. James Stanley BLENDS profile and plenty of oak. bouquet and young 5+ $23.50 Malpas McLaren very well. $18.99 elegant palate with Jip Jip Rocks Vale Shiraz Cabernet 2014 $20-$25 Sauvignon Cabernet upfront fruit and grippy 4 TASTED Padthaway Shiraz Franc 2013 HHHH Jack Estate Shingleback Mother of Pearl Shanahans VALUE tannins. Needs time. * In the September October 2015 issue the $20-$25 category winner was incorrectly organictimes.com.au BEST 2 AWARDED Coonawarra Wrattonbully Shiraz Wines The Old BUYS 5+ $20 Davey Estate 2013 HHHH A real Aussie blend. stated as being the Shingleback Davey Brothers McLaren Vale Shiraz. Wrattonbully Shiraz 2012 HHH Dog Barossa Reserve McLaren Rose petal bouquet Deep purple hues, slight Nice nose; all plums Valley Shiraz Saltram 1859 Shiraz Vale Shiraz with some spiciness leathery aromas with 2013 HHHH A couple of nice November/December 2015 WINES TATE Almost black, intensely and menthol. Lively acid 2012 HHH 2014 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 and great power, subtle spicy notes. Long 137 examples showing purity long savoury shiraz. palate with slight meaty Toasty caramel nose Perfumed spicy/floral A huge powerful shiraz; concentration and and flavoursome fruit/ of fruit not overtak very dark, very primary Delicate cherry and plum fruit characters. $19 with lashings of oak en by aromas and pure Bellevue Estate weight of fruit with oak palate. $23 on the spicy stonefruit primary fruit flavours McLaren Vale Shiraz subtle oak support and aromas and a fruit cake ripe stewed plum fruit the oak. characters layered with palate. Fine tannins and Fifth Estate palate. $19.95 with subtle oak. Time! 2013 HHHH1/2 fine acid. $20.95 Wolf Blass Original BEST black olive elements Geographe Shiraz Paxton MV VALUE 5+ $22.99 A big, dark, generous creamy oak. $22 McLaren Vale Shiraz and with plenty of McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH Shanahans BUYS and well-crafted wine. Bremerton Selkirk 2013 HHHH Fox Creek JSM grippy mouthcoating Elegant and composed Wines The Perfect Dense ruby hues, sweet Langhorne Creek Good concentration of 2014 HHH1/2 James Stanley tannins. Needs time. with an ‘honest’ flavour Storm McLaren Vale fruit aromas with slightly Shiraz 2013 HHHH plum fruit and sweet oak Nice plum and clove-like Malpas McLaren Shiraz 2012 HHH 5+ $23.50 profile and plenty of oak. bouquet and young leafy notes and good A pretty and well- layered with spices and Vale Shiraz Cabernet $18.99 Subtle aromas and rich red fruit and licorice structured crowd pleaser floral notes. Some pretty elegant palate with grippy tannic palate with flavour profile. $20 that has nice delicate tannins. “A very polished Jip Jip Rocks Sauvignon Cabernet upfront fruit and grippy Shanahans BEST bright fruit and well- Padthaway Shiraz fruit characters, a wine.” $24 tannins. Needs time. Franc 2013 HHHH A real Aussie blend. Wines The Old VALUE handled oak. $19.95 2013 HHHH perfumed lift and some 5+ $20 BUYS Deep purple hues, slight Dog Barossa Rose petal bouquet very stylish oak. $22 Valley Shiraz Saltram 1859 Shiraz with some spiciness leathery aromas with 2012 HHH 2014 HHH and great power, subtle spicy notes. Long Toasty caramel nose judges - day 2 concentration and and flavoursome fruit/ Perfumed spicy/floral with lashings of oak aromas and pure Bellevue Estate weight of fruit with oak palate. $23 Andy La Nauze Greg Fitzsimmons on the spicy stonefruit primary fruit flavours McLaren Vale Shiraz subtle oak support and Nick Haselgrove Winemaker at Yalumba Private Cellar-Fine Wine palate. $19.95 with subtle oak. Time! 2013 HHHH1/2 fine acid. $20.95 Wolf Blass Original Winestate’s 2010 Australian McLaren Vale Shiraz A big, dark, generous BEST 5+ $22.99 Winery. Previously Manager, Graysonline. Former Winemaker of the Year. VALUE winemaker at Norfolk retailer at Theo’s Liquor, then Winemaker/Director of Shanahans BUYS and well-crafted wine. Bremerton Selkirk 2013 HHHH Good concentration of Dense ruby hues, sweet Langhorne Creek Wines The Perfect Rise, Robe and St Tucker Seabrook, Key Account Adelaide Winemakers. plum fruit and sweet oak Storm McLaren Vale Hallett, Barossa Valley. Management at Taylors Former chief winemaker at fruit aromas with slightly Shiraz 2013 HHHH Wines and State Manager leafy notes and good Shiraz 2012 HHH Has vintaged in Alsace A pretty and well- layered with spices and Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying of Craggy Range NSW. Greg rich red fruit and licorice Subtle aromas and and completed the structured crowd pleaser floral notes. Some pretty winemaker’ from 1993-95. has studied wine marketing flavour profile. $20 grippy tannic palate with AWRI (Australian Wine that has nice delicate tannins. “A very polished Judge at Hobart for 3 years and hospitality management. bright fruit and well- Research Institute) fruit characters, a wine.” $24 and associate judge at Currently completing the handled oak. $19.95 wine assessment perfumed lift and some Adelaide in 1996-97. course. very stylish oak. $22 WSET diploma. 78 WINES TATE September/October 2015 judges - day 2 Andy La Nauze Greg Fitzsimmons Nick Haselgrove Winemaker at Yalumba Private Cellar-Fine Wine Winestate’s 2010 Australian 271_Part_B_tastings.indd 78 21/07/2015 9:57:13 AM Winery. Previously Manager, Graysonline. Former Winemaker of the Year. winemaker at Norfolk retailer at Theo’s Liquor, then Winemaker/Director of Rise, Robe and St Tucker Seabrook, Key Account Adelaide Winemakers. Hallett, Barossa Valley. Management at Taylors Former chief winemaker at Has vintaged in Alsace Wines and State Manager Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying and completed the of Craggy Range NSW. Greg winemaker’ from 1993-95. AWRI (Australian Wine has studied wine marketing Judge at Hobart for 3 years Research Institute) and hospitality management. and associate judge at wine assessment Currently completing the Adelaide in 1996-97. course. WSET diploma. 78 WINES TATE September/October 2015 271_Part_B_tastings.indd 78 21/07/2015 9:57:13 AM

af ter taste ELISABETH KING PORTUGAL PLAYING UP ITS POTENTIAL WITH the huge surge in the popularity of recognition from international wine critics for Spanish wines over the past few years, the great price to quality ratio of Portuguese Portugal is stepping up to the plate to grab a wines. At the 2014 International Wine piece of the action from its Iberian neighbour. Challenge, Portugal won 12 trophies behind Portuguese table wines are usually shelved France (28) and Australia (19). Four went to next to those of Spain and the Portuguese non-fortified wines, including Passadoura are hoping for a flow-on effect similar to the Touriga Nacional 2011. way Argentine wines were carried along in Mateus Rosé remains the cash cow of the wake of the Chilean wine boom. Portuguese wines, of course, and still The year got off to a great start. Sogrape enjoys enormous popularity around the Vinhos, Portugal’s largest wine company, world. As popular with today’s younger Douro’s wines for freshness and elegance. was voted the best wine producer of 2015 generation as it was with their parents and At Quinta do Crasto winery the emphasis by the World Association of Writers and grandparents. But during the northern is on crisp, floral whites based on three Journalists of Wines and Spirits. Every year hemisphere summer Sogrape made one indigenous grapes - rabigato, viosinho and the association chooses the top 100 wine of the most radical changes in decades. verdelho. At Niepoort Vinhos, an hour’s drive producers in the world based on the number Following test-marketing in Poland, Canada, away, one of the most delectable wines is of trophies and medals they have won over Japan and Germany, the company switched charme, named after Charmes-Chambertin the year. Sogrape topped the list ahead of E the iconic pink wine from green glass to grand cru in Burgundy. & J Gallo and Vranken Pommery Monopole. clear bottles in June because the targeted Historically, the Alentejo region is known for Sogrape is best known as the maker markets experienced an average 15 per cork and wheat. The region was accorded of the global blockbuster Mateus Rosé cent increase in sales. DO status in 1989 and the construction of and Sandeman Port. Boasting an annual But Portugal wants to be known for more reservoirs in the region has seen a huge turnover of $314 million, the company than rosé. In January, ViniPortugal, the inter- increase in olive oil and wine production. exports to over 120 markets and produces professional association of the Portuguese Luis Duarte, one of only two winemakers to wines in Argentina, Chile, Spain and New wine industry, called for advertising and have been voted Portuguese Winemaker Zealand. Founded in 1942 by three families marketing tenders in Canada, the UK and of the Year twice, is one of Portugal’s most - the Guedes, the Carmo and the Correira the US to develop annual marketing plans famous wine consultants and advises 10 da Silva clans. The Guedes family now owns in each of the lucrative markets to promote wineries in the region. 80 per cent of Sogrape after beating off a Vinhos do Portugal through to 2017. The Alentejo has morphed into an exciting challenge from Jose Berardo, Portugal’s Table wines from the Douro Valley started wine touring destination, with picturesque ninth richest man, in 2012 to take over the to gain international recognition in the mid- villages, first-rate food and a UNESCO World company following a six-year legal battle. 1990s. Over the past 20 years, tinkering with Heritage-listed polyphonic singing style. The company has been instrumental in non-traditional varieties and style questions Duarte has become its chief cheerleader. driving sales of Portuguese varietals in have emerged as they have elsewhere. He’s famous for pointing out that if you want the UK and last February British supplier According to George Sandeman, head of a velvety and well-balanced wine at a good Stevens Garnier took the name of its parent public relations for Sogrape, DNA testing price; think Portugal. as Sogrape UK. Over the past year, sales has identified 248 Portuguese grape The wines of Chile and Argentina are too of Portuguese red wines to the UK have varieties. sweet, he declares. “Well we don’t use the jumped 11.7 per cent and whites have The hot climate and schist soils of the same grapes everyone else does. Many enjoyed a 12.9 per cent increase in sales Douro are tailor-made for big, bold reds. Yet are unique to us. We’ve also taken many and a huge 55.5 per cent increase in volume, a clutch of wineries has been championing French grapes and adapted them for our reports Nielsen. single grape varietals, notably touriga own use. The Alentejo has great potential Success that can be traced to plenty of nacional, to carve out a new reputation for and the future will be good.” The issue everyone looks forward to – Winestate’s Wine of the Year Awards – featuring the best of the best tasted throughout 2015. Plus, feature tastings of From the Producer, Queensland, riesling, pinot gris/grigio and ne xt issue: sauvignon blanc & blends. 138 WINES TATE November/December 2015



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Winestate Magazine November December 2015

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