Winestate Magazine November December 2015

WineState-Rolling-StripAdFA.pdf 1 31/08/2015 10:12 am IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine W ines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 E. Guigal La Turque 2005 $5,700 pulpitcellars.com.au Hermitage Shiraz 2006 $2,100 1990 $800 1990 $150 2007 $3,200  1991 $850  1991 $130 2008 $3,000 1992 $270 FREE 1992 $80 1993 $240 1993 $90 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1994 $120 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1995 $110  1990 $550 1990 $800 1996 $260 ENTRY 1996 $160 1993 $220 1991 $450 1997 $450  1997 $85  1994 $340 1993 $340 1998 $700 1998 $160  1995 $300 1994 $360 1999 $850  TO WIN A 1999 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2000 $420 2000 $80  1997 $450 1996 $540 2001 $520 2001 $100 1999 $340 1997 $490 2002 $450 ROBERT 2002 $150 2000 $340 1998 $400 2003 $850 2003 $100 2002 $300 1999 $520 2004 $560 OATLEY 2004 $120 2004 $240 2000 $600 2005 $600 2005 $130 2001 $900 2006 $750 7 BOTTLE 2006 $130 Chateau Mouton 2002 $500 2008 $120  Rothschild 2003 $600 Gaja Barbaresco 2009 $130 1990 $650  2004 $500 1990 $330 PACK 2010 $140  1991 $550 2005 $650 1991 $220 2011 $110 1992 $230 2008 $600 1992 Not Released 1993 $550  C 1994 $340 Domaine 1993 $210 1995 $520 de la Romanee 1994 $260 M 1996 $800  Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1997 $280 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 Y Para Liqueur 1998 $420 1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1878 $2,200  1999 $750  1992 $1,250 1998 $300 CM 1879 $2,500  2000 $1,150 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1880 $1,800  2001 $450 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  MY 1881 $1,800  2002 $500 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 CY 1882 $1,800  2003 $600 1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 1887 $1,200  2004 $850  1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released CMY 1893 $1,200  2005 $1,200 1998 $2,200 2004 $310 1899 $1,200  2006 $950  1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released K 1901 $700  2008 Not Released 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 1908 $600  2009 $2,000 2001 $2,000 1910 $500  2002 $3,800  Tenuta 1922 $350 Chateau Latour 2003 $2,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1925 $600 1990 $1,250 2004 $2,500 Ornellaia 1927 $290 1991 $600 2005 $5,500  1991 $320 INCLUDES A MAGNUM 1930 $140 1992 $350 2006 $1,700 1992 $105 OF ROLLING CAB MERLOT 1933 $140  1993 $440 2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90  1994 $460 2008 $2,400 1994 $130 1944 $80  1995 $1,200  2009 $5,000 1995 $130 PACK ALSO SOLD 1947 $75  1996 $1,400  1996 $180 ONLINE FOR A LIMITED 1997 $650  Domaine Armand 1997 $350  TIME FOR ONLY IMPORTED 1998 $520 Rousseau 1998 $350  $ 99 WINES 1999 $600 Chambertin 1999 $200 WAS 89 2000 $1,600 Clos de Beze 2000 $450  $ SEVEN 2001 $700 1990 $2,500  2001 $260 120 BOTTLE 2002 $600 1991 $200 2002 $280 PACK 2003 $1,700 1992 $220 2003 $150 2004 $600 1993 $700  2004 $280  PACK INCLUDES: 1x Rolling NSW Shiraz ‘13, Moet et Chandon 2005 $1,300 1994 $500 2005 $200  1x Taltarni T Series VIC Shiraz ’14, 1x Copia 2006 $220 Cuvee Dom 2006 $1,100 1995 $560 2007 $220 WA Cabernet Merlot ‘13, 1x The Lane Block Perignon 2007 $750 1996 $650 2008 $150 1980 $180  2008 $1,100 1997 $280 2009 $190 5 Adelaide Hills Shiraz ’13, 1x Wild Oats 1982 $280  1998 $400 Mudgee Shiraz ‘13, 1x Hancock & Hancock 1983 $190  Chateau Petrus 1999 $800 Vega Sicilia Unico McLaren Vale Shiraz Grenache ’14 PLUS 1x 1985 $200 1990 $5,500 2000 $320 Gran Reserva MAGNUM OF ROLLING CABERNET MERLOT 1988 $260 1991 Not Released 2001 $700  1990 $560 1990 $320  1992 $1,300 2002 $680 1991 $420 1992 $240 1993 $1,000 2003 $600 1994 $550 pulpitcellars.com.au 1993 $260 1994 $2,800 2004 $440 1995 $420 1995 $220 1995 $4,000  2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1996 $370  1996 $2,400 2006 $600 1998 $420 click blink drink 1998 $260 1997 $1,000 2007 Not Released 1999 $550  1999 $190 1998 $4,800  2009 $1,100 2000 $360 *COMPETITION DRAWN ON 30/12/15. 2000 $190  1999 $1,250 2010 $1,100 2002 $420 2002 $200 2000 $6,000 2003 $294 FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS AT 2003 $190 2001 $4,500  pulpitcellars.com.au/competitions 2004 $170 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 51

wine in v estment & collecting Mourvedre and the quirkily bottled 2009 Laurance Icon blend also cleared well. More recognisable brands like Jacob’s Creek, St Hugo and Centenary Hill, as well as 2005 and ’06 Moss Wood Cabernet, 2006 Rockford Basket Press, 2006 Shaw & Smith Shiraz, 2004 Wolf Blass Platinum and 1998 Wynns John Riddoch all cleared above expectation. McLaren Vale also caught buyer attention with good clearances for AUCTION DATES 2008 Kay Bros Block 6, a large offering of Marius Simpatico, Symposium and LANGTON’S FINE WINE Symphony, along with Hamilton 2013 AUCTIONS Centurion Shiraz. Clare chipped in with Nov 3-10: Finest & Rare Wine Auction good sales of 2003 and 2005 Wendouree Nov 5-12: Cellar Reload Value Auction Shiraz and a variety of the blends, while a Nov 10-17: Finest & Rare Wine Auction splendid offering of Wynns Coonawarra Nov 12-19: $5 Reserve Auction Single Vineyard wines such as Alex Nov 17-24: Finest & Rare Wine Auction 88, Davis, Glengyle and Messenger all Nov 19-26: Cellar Reload Value Auction cleared well. Nov 19-26: Women in Wine - Cancer With Aussie whites, buyers were taken Fundraiser by the multiple lots of mixed chardonnay, Nov 19-26: Classification VI Auction but also keen to bid on a number of Nov 24-Dec 1: Finest & Rare Wine lots of Oakridge Wine’s flagship 864 Auction ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Single Vineyard Chardonnay. The 2007 Nov 26-Dec 3: $5 Reserve Auction (MID-WINTER PREMIUM AUCTION Lehmann Wigan Riesling, little seen at Nov 26-Dec 3: Classic Penfolds Auction REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHT) auction, also cleared above expectation. Dec 1-8: Finest & Rare Wine Auction The July auction was as interesting as Penfolds stock remains in critical short Dec 1-8: Large Format & Sparkling it was intriguing. What little Grange we supply, but what was available cleared Dec 3-10: Cellar Reload Value Auction had, perfect and imperfect, just about very well, with buyers particularly Dec 3-10: Shiraz & Allies Auction sold out; buyers were very attracted focused on Bin 128, 28, 407 and Magill Dec 8-15: Finest & Rare Wine Auction to the classy chardonnays on offer; Estate. Australia’s other leading house of Dec 10-17: $5 Reserve Auction Beaujolais, in the form of the more wine, CA Henschke & Co, had a quieter Dec 15-22: Finest & Rare Wine Auction robust Morgan and Chablis, was flavour Dec 16-23: Cellar Reload Value Auction of the month with our imported buyers night with some buyer interest in Hill Dec 23-30: 5% Buyer’s Premium Sale and bidding wars were erupting on the of Grace and Mt Edelstone. I suspect a lack of supply of good condition wine most unlikely of Aussie reds. ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Top bids for the month included $1100 is the issue here. Of the imports, it Nov 4 (closes Oct 9) was all about France - namely, well- Dec 8 (closes Nov 13) for a magnum of 2006 Grange, $500 priced bordeaux, champagne, chablis, for a 1982 Chateau Leoville Las Cases beaujolais and red and white burgundy. GRAYSWINE and a rare Aussie single malt going for On to the Top 10 tables for July and Daily wine auctions, starting from $9 $451. The big surprise was the very keen while June’s story was all about the per case, with a 30-day money back bidding on Bleasdale’s 2008 The Powder lack of Grange presence in the Top 10 guarantee. Fine wine auctions end Monkey Shiraz, which went 64 per cent Hammer Prices, Australian Wine list, Monday-Tuesday-Thursday each week. above the top ends of the guides. Port and spirit auctions end on Buyers were also interested in a wide this month they made a clean sweep. Wednesdays. range of Australian reds and whites, The magnum of 2006 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz (in its original timber case) CRACKA WINES along with imported table wines. From mentioned above took pole position with Live wine auctions each day. the Australian table wine stable, buyers $1100, followed jointly by two ’71s - both were keen on the aforementioned fetching $751. One was VVHS with a STERLING WINE AUCTIONS Bleasdale offering, its rival - 2012 minor cellar scuffed label. The other - Auctions run every two weeks, back-to- Bremerton Old Adam Shiraz - and Red Wine Clinic 1994 - was minor cellar back, finishing on Wednesday evening. Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier from 2006 stained with a scuffed and marked label. (all dates subject to change without and 2008 - one of the modern greats. It was good to see magnum sales notice). Hewitson’s famed 2010 Old Garden improving at this sale. In the Top 10 52 WINES TATE November/December 2015

wine in v estment & collecting Non-Penfold/Henschke Hammer Prices This offering is as explosive as it is Barossa Valley Amontillado NV (Barossa list, the first three positions were all extraordinary. In second spot, achieving Valley Vintage Festival Auction 1981) secured by magnums. A 2004 and 2006 $200, was a one-litre boxed bottle of the fetching 33.3 per cent above the top Rockford Basket Press Shiraz fetched now-terminated Johnnie Walker Green end of guides. This offering was level at $200 and $181 respectively - both in Label 15-year-old Pure Malt Whisky. base of neck and had a weeping cork, but original timber cases - while a boxed In terms of how far our bidders were condition didn’t appear to be an issue. magnum of 2002 Leeuwin Estate Art willing to go to secure a lot, Bleasdale’s For more information visit www. Series Chardonnay achieved $170. If the ’08 The Powder Monkey Shiraz from oddbins.com.au. All prices quoted are buyer of the imperial of red wine (wax L anghorne Creek led the Top 10 exclusive of buyer’s premium. capsule) from an unknown producer is Australian Performers, Percentage reading, I’m keen to know what it tasted Above Top End of Guides list. In second like. The hammer price was $101. position, going 35 per cent above the top LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS It was a mix of superstars among end, was a 2005 Wild Duck Creek Estate (MARKET HIGHLIGHTS - JULY) July’s imported sales. Leading the Top Springflat Heathcote Shiraz. Langton’s mounted a full program of 22 10 Hammer Prices, Imported Wine list For the first time in ages our imported online auctions during July, including was the Leoville Las Cases 2me Cru buyers were quite prepared to put their three outstanding sales of private vendor St Julien (level into neck, cellar nicked hand up - mainly for wines out of the collections, in addition to our weekly capsule) from the famed 1982 vintage, Burgundy region. Heading up the Top 10 Finest and Rare Wine auctions. followed by a 1996 gift-boxed Krug Imported Wine Performers, Percentage Other themed auctions celebrated Champagne Brut which achieved $390 Above Top End of Guides list, at 28.7 Bastille Day and focused on top vintages and a 1982 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou per cent above, was a 2005 magnum from the decades of the 1990s and the 2me Cru St Julien (cellar scuffed label) of Domaine Francois Raveneau 1er Cru 2000s. at $319. A magnum of the breathtaking Montee De Tonnerre Chablis (weeping Supply for July was solid, with vendors 2009 Domaine Francois Raveneau 1er cork, wax capsule). chasing liquidity and/or reconfiguring Cru Butteaux Chablis (wax capsule) The situation was almost the complete their cellars to accommodate changing fetched $250. opposite with the Top 10 Fortified & tastes. There were bargains to be had I was pleased to see Heartwood’s Spirit Performers, Percentage Above via Langton’s fortnightly $5 Reserve Release The Beast Tasmania Single Top End of Guides list - with most auctions, including 2013 Head Old Vine Malt Whisky 65.4 per cent (distilled at buyers keeping their bids within the Krondorf Grenache ($19), 2013 Bird in Lark Distillery, matured in sherry casks) price guides. There were only four Hand Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) and heading the Top 10 Hammer Prices, exceptions, including a boxed bottle 2013 Woodlands Cabernet Merlot ($13). Fortified Wine & Spirits list with $451. of Seppelt DP116 Seppeltsfield Show Bordeaux was July’s regional favourite, Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Looking for Wine? Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Oddbins Wine Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Auctions - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 With over 30 years experience... Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 It’s What we do Best! Email: [email protected] November/December 2015 WINES TATE 53

wine in v estment & collecting with strong results for rare, aged ’98 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz ($551), top eight most wanted places. wines. Among the highlights were a 1970 Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz ($378), In the same vein, the only other bottle 1982 Chateau Margaux ($1223), 2005 a ’73 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz selling well below the $100 mark in the Chateau Mouton-Rothschild ($1223), ($327) and a 2007 Chris Ringland Dry Top 20, was the wine paradox that is the 1990 Chateau Cheval Blanc ($1048), Grown Barossa Ranges Shiraz ($758). 2012 St Hallett Blackwell. 12 bids drove 1989 and 1998 Chateau Petrus (both Prices include buyer’s premium and this humble giant killer with the amazing $3495) and 1990 Chateau Montrose are per 750ml bottle, unless otherwise critic scores, up to $32. ($757). stated. For more information and price Probably the most interesting curio in The real (Penfolds) Grange continued results please go to langtons.com.au. the top flight was a badly ullaged bottle to deliver robust results in July, with of 1974 Wynns Coonawarra Estate the following all good examples: 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon - a wine that hailed ($807), ’76 ($1340), ’90 ($714), ’98 STERLING WINE AUCTIONS from before 2011, the worst vintage in ($ 640), ’86 ($700), ’96 ($ 630) and (AUGUST MARKET REPORT, by living South Australian wine memory. 2002 ($583). LYNTON BARBER) Penfolds Grange dominated the top Sizzling demand for large-format The Sterling online wine auction ending order and pushed average bottle prices bottles continued, with imperials of in late July saw some surprises, with a up to over $100. The heaviest lifting was Henschke Hill of Grace changing hands few “miracle” budget wines stealing the done by an Imperial of 2010 Chateau for $10,718 (1990 and 2001) and $12,816 thunder of the immortals. The contest for Lafite Carruades Lafitte which sold for a (1998). the most bidders and the “most wanted” hammer fall of $2700. This was a bargain At the other end of the size spectrum, competition was for a 1980 Grange compared to the 2009 Lafite Imperial a run of 375ml bottles of Seppeltsfield Magnum (Penfolds recorking clinic and sold by Sterling in June for $18,500. 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawnies from signed by the winemaker). 42 bids drove There are many super premium wines 1880 to 1905 sold for $1393 per (half) the price up to a hammer fall of $901. in Australia and many are handled harshly bottle. Squeezed in among the Top 20 Most by a secondary market that treats high Top prices for the month were a Wanted wines in the auction - a list retail prices as a guide that needs to be magnum of 2004 Domaine de la Romanee dominated by Penfolds Grange, Henschke proven by real demand-driving market Conti La Tache ($6058), a magnum of Hill of Grace and Wynns John Riddoch - forces. Some super premiums suffer 1990 Chateau d’Yquem ( $1286 ), a was a six-pack of 2007 Cape Mentelle from contempt through familiarity. 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Shiraz. 15 bids and $41 a bottle saw these Maybe that’s boredom? Two players Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon ($616), a bottles, sold as singles, occupy six of the that have been around for over 100 Introducing GraysWine Join our community of wine lovers and growers. Discover a better way to buy and sell wine. Choose from 30 day 2000+ Wines Money-Back Quick Delivery Name your Price RIGHT TO YOUR WORTH EVERY GUARANTEE DOOR BID FROM JUST $9 FOR MOST CASES DROP Find out why selling and buying wine on GraysWine is worth every drop! Contact us: [email protected] 54 WINES TATE November/December 2015

wine in v estment & collecting years that should not be overlooked are GRAYSWINE feature on auction wines, video content Tahbilk 1860 Old Vine Shiraz and Best’s (AUGUST REPORT, by GREG and tasting panel picks. We have Thompson Family Shiraz. Both wines FITZSIMMONS) expanded the “buy now” range four- are made in tiny quantities by producers Since 2000 Graysonline has led the fold and offer a huge array of exclusive with an extreme sense of history and way in online wine sales. We have wines. We are also bringing together the promise that a bottle priced at over applied vision and innovation to the the many growers and winemakers who $100 must deliver. concept of wine-on-line and have been pour their passion for winemaking into It’s a similar story for Seppelt’s St rewarded with the patronage and loyalty every bottle they produce. This passion Peters. Maybe it’s a twist of fate that of Australia’s wine buyers. Throughout is evident in the increasing depth and has seen Sterling catalogues laden this period, Grays has continually refined quality of local wines, which come direct with good quantities of many vintages the way we go to market, allowing us to from the winery to the online buyer, at of St Peters that gives the impression meet and regularly exceed our customer prices consistently below cellar door. of softness in demand? The demand is expectations. From “auction” to “buy Look out for these “natives”, they are consistent enough and Sterling always now”, Graysonline delivers a full range worth every drop. moves good quantities. It is the price of wines, all the way through from top Central to Graysonline’s success over that demands attention. In my opinion, Bordeaux’s to bargain Barossa’s. Grays’ the years is our “$9 start” auctions, a wine of St Peters incredible quantity commitment to importing quality brands which, in combination with our “top and credentials deserves to be selling and passing them on at bargain prices, drops” auction starting at $109, remain much closer to $100 a bottle. I believe has seen our buyer base grow to over enormously popular. This range of Seppelt’s St Peters is one of the most 300,000 loyal customers. To prove auction categories positions Grays undervalued wines in the wine auction that Graysonline never stands still, we perfectly to meet both the expectations system. A touch of class? A touch of have just taken the next step in the of our suppliers and the demands of our confidence? The 2012 vintage St Peters evolution of online wine sales with the customers. has a distinctive decoration on the introduction of our new, standalone wine Within private cellar, the new site carton - “2012 Exceptional Vintage”. In website, GraysWine. www.GraysWine. offers improved customer interaction my experience, only “The Rare Chance”, com.au. and navigation, greater ease of use and used on the 2010 Rockford Basket This new site brings many of the more space to go to market. This has Press carton, can compete. For more features that have made Graysonline a had an immediate impact and the value information visit www.sterlingwine. house-hold name in the wine industry, of many of the wines has risen. Leading com.au. All prices quoted are hammer along with a range of new applications, this trend has been Penfolds Grange, fall, before BP. including our mobile App “buy now” with an 8 per cent lift on average sale November/December 2015 WINES TATE 55

wine in v estment & collecting price over the past few months. Take for Graysonline recently acquired a a crowd and return premium prices, example the 1957 (low shoulder) which wonderful aged cellar. Many of the with customers willing to pay that little sold for an astonishing $9420 and, in the wines are less than 15 years old and in bit extra for the perfect gift. Recent same sale, the unheralded 1972 vintage their optimum drinking window. I have sales saw a six-litre Redman cabernet which went for a whopping $819. The tasted and tested many of these fine sauvignon from Coonawarra reach a 1964 reached a very respectable $1109 wines (tough job, I know) and I can staggering $609 and a 1975 Penfolds Bin and the ’76 continues to set the bar, say with confidence that buyers will 128 reach $254. If you have any 1975s, over-achieving again at $945. Other be enthralled. The wines include 2008 ’65s, ’85s or, for the ultimate 21st, a Penfolds classics also sold above Cullen Diana Madeleine Cabernet Merlot 1994 wine, please contact me, as they expectations, including the seven-bottle (average $74), 2005-2006 Elderton are in strong demand for the remainder set of Penfolds Series One Bin Range Command Shiraz (average $82), 2002- of the year. 2003-2005 at $709, and the 1980 Bin 2004 Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz For great prices on an extraordinary 80A Cabernet Shiraz at $455. On the (average $85-95), 2006 James Irvine range of fine wines, followed by fast flip side, a few fell short of their full Grand Merlot ($43) and 2005 Torbreck and efficient service delivery, it doesn’t potential, including the 1966 Bin 620 RunRig Shiraz ($150). These wines are get better than the new GraysWine - it’s Cabernet Shiraz which fetched $549 packed in either threes or sixes and most worth every drop. For more information and the exceptionally rare 1962 Bin are still available on Grays Monday or visit www.GraysWine.com.au. 60A Cabernet Shiraz which escaped for Tuesday auctions, which means you can Prices listed don’t include buyer’s the relative bargain price of $3000 per be enjoying them with family and friends premium. bottle. The vendor was appropriately by a Friday night. compensated on this one. “You wine “Birthday wines”, those wines for some and you Toulouse some!” the year of birth, continue to draw 56 WINES TATE November/December 2015

TASTE CULTURE Josef Hoffmann, Fauteuil Fledermaus ”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com Winestate Jugendstil Rot.indd 1 31.08.15 09:30

169 TASTED 88 AWARDED PINOT NOIR Another massive judging of pinots across all prices and styles. Trinity Hill Hawkes Bay Pinot Noir Arguably, Australia’s most competitive tasting of this varietal, 2013 HHH1/2 where we don’t give away prizes easily at Winestate. All wines A fragrant, spicy and earthy style; light-bodied recommended here have earned their stripes the hard way; judged and balanced with blind by their industry peers! Lots to choose from and lots to like! attractive plum fruit and good level of tannins. $22 Eradus Single Vineyard Awatere Valley Pinot Noir 2014 HHH PINOT NOIR Fern Ridge Haha Oakdene Bellarine Lovely earthy richness to the nose and a very UNDER $20 Marlborough Pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir generous and creamy Noir 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH 11 TASTED Great light fresh varietal Dark plum nose with palate. $21.99 NZ 5 AWARDED with lots of spices, stony cool notes. Great Trinity Hill NZ Pinot pepper and crunchy palate structure - very fresh acidity. 3-5 generous and chewier Noir 2014 HHH Some wines here $19.99 than nose suggests. Soft Smells of Cherry Ripe showed good varietal powdery tannins. $24 with dark herbal notes and big mouthwatering character but there were Ekhidna She Viper Jackson Estate flavour packed palate. Te Kairanga Adelaide Hills Pinot those that were verging Noir 2014 HHH Homestead 5+ $22 Martinborough Pinot on being just dry reds; Youthful Beaujolais style Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 HHHH an interesting contrast with intense raspberry/ Noir 2013 HHHH PINOT NOIR Rich warm and generous with intense varietal fruit cherry aromas and bright Attractive ripe raspberry of getting depth from fruit flavours. $19.95 aromas with floral notes. $25-$30 in the plumy blue fruit full fruit compared with Cool generous palate 33 TASTED spectrum with brown holding back for varietal PINOT NOIR that maintains the pinot 12 AWARDED wood spices and some 5+ $28 NZ heat. purity. Some good value $20-$25 fruit brightness with good oak use. $24 for money here. No great difference Wairau River 16 TASTED Mount Riley between this flight and Family Estate Matahiwi Mt Hector 7 AWARDED Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Wairarapa Pinot Noir Noir 2014 HHH1/2 the $20-$25 group. Noir 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 A mixed group with a Some obvious toasty oak Still a mixed bag with Lovely lifted cherry-like A deep, dark and rich present here but there the best showing fruit varietal fruit characters meatier style of pinot few “shockers\", said the is also excellent fruit generosity and early with some old oak exhibiting fresh and judges. \"Simplicity is the weight showing some elements and plenty of lively varietal fruit issue here rather than nice spiciness. $21.95 drinking appeal but there acidity. $25 intensity. $17.99 winemaking problems,\" were too many wines Invivo Central Giesen Vineyard said one judge. \"A Seville Estate showing faults such Otago Pinot Noir The Barber Yarra Selection few overdid the oak Valley Pinot Noir as oxidation, aldehydic 2013 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot but generally tannins 2014 HHH1/2 characters and volatility. Good focus of earthy, Noir 2014 HHH1/2 Lifted floral aromatics and beetroot and rhubarb- Pleasant sweet spicy were in balance. One long smooth palate with Stumpy Gully like pinot characters fruit nose and tight Burgundy wine didn't great berry fruit intensity Mornington layered with fine tannins palate with very good make the cut; too green and slightly dusty oak on Peninsula Pinot Noir and toasty wood notes. tannins and pinot floral the finish. $24 2014 HHHH 5+ $27.99 expression. $19.99 and hard!” Some simple licorice- like characters on the Paddy Borthwick Scotchman's Hill nose and a \"cool calm\" Paper Road Swan Bay Bellarine palate with good varietal Gladstone NZ Pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir fruit presence and firm Noir 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH tannins. 5+ $25 Savoury nose with hints Lifted fresh aromas with of bacon and a chewy jubey fruit characters complex dark fruit palate and drying tannins on with an oak influence on the palate. $18.50 the back palate. $26 58 WINES TATE November/December 2015

var ietal tasting Fern Ridge Ha Rockcliffe Third Te Kairanga Barwon Ridge Ha Reserve Reef Great Southern The Runholder Geelong Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir Martinborough Pinot 2013 HHH Noir 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH Noir 2014 HHHH Lifted fresh and bright Very ripe rich sweet Smells of cherries and Lovely layers of plums, with good level of oak toffee nose with sweet, chocolate. Up front acid beetroot and spices spiciness and fine creamy dark fruit on the on the palate carries the with a violet lift, good tannins. 5+ $33 palate. 5+ $22.99 fruit with fine tannins sweetness, dusty earthy sitting gently underneath. characters and grippy Giesen The Brothers Matahiwi Estate 5+ $30 tannin profile. 5+ Marlborough Pinot Wairarapa Pinot Noir $34 NZ Noir 2012 HHH 2014 HHH Very good violet-like Jubey strawberry and Singlefile Denmark florals on the nose and plum characters with Great Southern long well-textured palate; somewhat aggressive Pinot Noir clean fruit flavours. tannins and bright 2014 HHH1/2 5+ $32.99 acidity. 3-5 $25.99 Bright fresh raspberry fruit profile with nice Bream Creek Akarua Rua Central touch of earthiness and Tasmania Pinot Otago Pinot Noir some very firm grippy oak Noir 2011 HHH 2014 HHH tannins. 5+ $33 Light-bodied lolly-like Quite a savoury style; fruit with good spice lots of spicy dark fruit. Milton Tasmania fragrances and softly Big mid-sweetness Scarpantoni Pinot Noir balanced palate. with firm tannin McLaren Vale Pinot 2013 HHH1/2 5+ $34 completion. $28.50 Noir 2013 HHH An aromatic and spicy Cherry liqueur-like style of pinot exhibiting PINOT NOIR Mt Difficulty characters on the nose very attractive Roaring Meg Central and firm palate structure fleshy varietal fruit 2014 Otago Pinot Noir with high acidity. $25 expression. $34 2014 HHH $35-$40 Earthy stewed plum Centennial 13 TASTED nose. Sweet ripe PINOT NOIR Vineyards Reserve 7 AWARDED fruit freshness on the $30-$35 Single Vineyard palate. $29.99 Kings of Kangaroo Bowral Pinot Noir 24 TASTED Ground Yarra 2014 HHH A mixed group of the Silverwood Estate 13 AWARDED Valley Pinot Noir A nose of fruit compote nice \"babies in the Mornington 2014 HHHH layered with red licorice bottle\" and those that Peninsula Pinot Noir The message here is Dense, dark aromatics and great fruit intensity on 2013 HHH showing lovely the palate. 5+ $30 were prematurely ageing Savoury cedary aromas; drink these wines young earthiness and dark or had old barrel/brett nice undergrowth notes. with the 2014s doing cocoa-like flavours with The Wine Society issues. Rich creamy palate with very well. The better, gamey notes and very Directors Selection drying tannins. good oak balance. Tasmania Pinot Noir Foxeys Hangout 3-5 $27.99 older, wines had clarity 5+ $30 2014 HHH Mornington and were not overripe Red plum nose with Peninsula Pinot Noir Reillys Dry Land or stale. Awatere River by cherry notes. Good fruit 2014 HHHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Pinot Louis Vavasour density on the palate Nose described by one Noir 2012 HHH Marlborough Pinot with well-handled oak. judge as being \"purple, Clean dark fruit with Villa Maria Noir 2014 HHHH 3-5 $32.99 floral and spicy\". It has meaty/earthy touches, Cellar Selection Very attractive a very lightly fruited good length of spice and Marlborough Pinot complexity of ripe Scotchman's palate with good texture a ripe tannin structure. Noir 2012 HHHH strawberry jam and Hill Bellarine and driven by very 5+ $29 Light fragrant bouquet oak aromas and a very Peninsula Pinot with pleasant spicy classy and flavoursome Noir 2013 HHH good tannin and acid warmth. Sweetness to palate that's soft in the Caramel/plum bouquet elements. 5+ $35 the palate entry moving mouth. $31 NZ and sweet fruit palate on to dryness at the bright with acid and plenty finish. 5+ $34.90 of texture. 5+ $30 JUDGES - DAY 1 Travis Bush Steven Paul Mark O'Callaghan Winemaker, Greenstone Manager for Winemaker for Oatley Vineyards. Has judged at Oakdene Wines. Wines (Victoria). Former the Victorian wine show Completed AWRI winemaker/manager and Inland wine show. and WSET Advanced for Yarra Burn Winery. Has vintaged in Cataluna, Wine Assessment Completed the Len Spain; Rhone Valley, Certificates. Judge Evans Tutorial in 2007. France and Rhine Valley, at Victorian wine Panel chairman of the Germany. Locally has show and associate Victorian wine show. made wine in Yarra Valley at Geelong, Ballarat Associate judge at the and Strathbogie Ranges. and Cairns. Adelaide and National wine shows. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 59

PINOT NOIR Paddy Borthwick PINOT NOIR K1 by Geoff Hardy Sew & Sew Domain Road Gladstone NZ Pinot Adelaide Hills Pinot Adelaide Hills Pinot Vineyard Noir 2014 HHHH 2013 & OLDER Noir 2013 HHHH Noir 2013 HHH Bannockburn Perfect varietal fruit $35-$40 A sour cherry note to the Brooding fruit characters Central Otago Pinot ripeness with an nose with a hint of mint. with mossy/earthy Noir 2012 HHH attractive spicy oak 22 TASTED Big sweet varietal fruit touches, chocolaty oak A firmer style; influence and silky 13 AWARDED palate with a firm tannin and dusty tannins. interesting and complex smooth balance between structure and savoury 5+ $35 with rhubarb and forest the fruit, tannins and oak. oak. 5+ $35 floor elements. $38 5+ $35 A solid class still Staete Landt Paladin showing fruit vibrancy. Moorooduc Estate Marlborough Pinot PINOT NOIR Seville Estate Yarra The judges thought the Mornington Noir 2013 HHH Valley Pinot Noir best wines here showed Peninsula Pinot Noir Long firm pinot style $40-$50 2014 HHHH 2013 HHHH with cool fruit intensity 19 TASTED Sour cherry aromas; well-handled oak and A long firm style with and well settled tannins. some oak evident. savoury fruit. lots of good spicy oak, 5+ $35 8 AWARDED Palate firmly packed a nice background of with sweet dark berry perfumed varietal fruits Mount Riley A jump up in standard flavours and showing and balancing tannin Seventeen Valley here; some great good tannin/acid backbone. 5+ $38 Martinborough Pinot balance. $36 Noir 2013 HHH results. Wines showed Mount Riley Dark Christmas cake-like great vibrancy, texture Home Hill Estate Seventeen Valley fruit and spices with fine and balanced oak. Huon Valley Marlborough Pinot tannins. Drinking well Tasmania Pinot Noir Noir 2013 HHH1/2 now. 3-5 $36.95 However there were 2014 HHH1/2 A balanced and intense also some in this group A vibrant, fresh, bright style with lots of sweet Goaty Hill that were overblown magenta wine with toffee-like fruit, some Tasmania Pinot Noir jubey fruit showing spicy notes and showing 2013 HHH with overripe fruit and a herbal touch and good oak handling. Jubey sweet nose and excess oak - trying to layered with savoury oak 5+ $36.95 lightly fruited palate with justify the price but characters. $36 hints of earthy/forest overdoing it. Oakdene Peta's floor characters. $38 K1 by Geoff Hardy Bellarine Peninsula Adelaide Hills Pinot Pinot Noir Robert Oatley Craggy Range Noir 2014 HHH 2013 HHH Finisterre Te Muna Road Stewed plum nose with Cherry aromas with a Mornington Martinborough Pinot rhubarb notes and a floral lift which is echoed Peninsula Pinot Noir 2013 HHHHH perfumed lift. Similar on the palate. Good oak Noir 2012 HHH The nose has moss-like palate. Soft tannins. use. 5+ $35 Vibrant lifted toffee elements and cherry 5+ $35 Jackson Estate edged dark fruit with wood with a lovely lift Vintage Widow Rob Dolan Yarra mouthcoating tannins. of floral varietal fruit. Derwent Estate Marlborough Pinot Valley Pinot Noir More savoury in style. Long, firm palate with Tasmania Pinot Noir Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH $36.95 the fruit carrying across 2014 HHH Purple hues and slightly Bright spicy red fruit the whole length of the Big ripe style. Lots of subdued nose of crunchy nose and long, clean, Cockfighters palate. 5+ $42.95 dark cherry, dried fruit blueberry fruit with peaty nicely textured crunchy Ghost Reserve and licorice characters notes. Warming palate, red berry palate. $35 Tasmania Pinot with warming tannins. firmly structured, good Noir 2012 HHH 5+ $37 flavour persistence and Lifted sour cherry-like firm bright acidity. fruit characters. A leaner Soho Havana 5+ $36 style ready for drinking Marlborough Pinot now. $38 Noir 2014 HHH Cool crunchy red berry fruit with a fine tannin structure and a fresh acid drive. $37 NZ JUDGES - DAY 2 Travis Bush Steven Paul Sarah Fagan Winemaker, Greenstone Manager for Oakdene Winemaker, De Vineyards. Has judged at Wines. Completed AWRI Bortoli Wines, Yarra the Victorian wine show and WSET Advanced Wine Valley. Judged at and Inland wine show. Assessment Certificates. Royal Queensland, Has vintaged in Cataluna, Judge at Victorian wine Royal Melbourne and Spain; Rhone Valley, show and associate at Ballarat wine shows. France and Rhine Valley, Geelong, Ballarat and Completed the Len Germany. Locally has Cairns. Evans Tutorial. Vintaged made wine in Yarra Valley at Littorai, California; and Strathbogie Ranges. Joseph Leitz, Rheingau and G.D. Vajra, Piedmonte. 60 WINES TATE November/December 2015

var ietal tasting Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Intense spicy fruit nose and firmly structured palate with what one judge referred to as \"a clipped oak finish\". 5+ $49.99 McGuigan Cellar Select Hunter Valley Pinot Noir 2014 HHH Purple plum and dark fruit aromatics and a lively and tight plum fruit palate. Nice oak. $40 Hickinbotham Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Akarua Bannockburn Smells and tastes of Lowburn Ferry Central Otago Pinot chocolate caramels! Has Home Block Central Noir 2013 HHHHH texture, weight, length Otago Pinot Noir Restrained nose; some and interest. $45 2014 HHHH1/2 cigar-like oak and intense Smells of cranberries cherry fruit. The long, PINOT NOIR and cherries with a firm textured palate lovely lift of violets. The has lovely presence of $50-$60 light varietal fruit dances varietal fruit with the 14 TASTED across the palate with T E oak kept nicely in check. 10 AWARDED a firm but not grippy WINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING 5+ $42 tannin profile. 5+ $55 NZ Rockcliffe Single The best had lovely Site Denmark Great evenness of fruit and Lowburn Ferry Southern Pinot Noir Home Block Central 2014 HHHH1/2 tannins. Some of the Otago Pinot Noir Cool plum and unripe 2012s were already 2013 HHHH1/2 raspberry-like fruit losing fruit with the oak Bright cherry bouquet characters with a nice dominating. with a fragrant perfumed mix of old and new lift and some gamey oak and excellent Eldridge Estate of notes. Lovely choc/ persistence of the Red Hill Mornington cherry flavour profile tannins with a long oaky Peninsula Pinot Noir with fruit freshness and finish. 5+ $45 attractive oak finish. 2013 HHHHH 5+ $55 A lovely lifted spicy Wairau River cherry bouquet and a Reserve palate that is packed Margrain Reserve Marlborough Pinot with dense rich fruit Martinborough Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 flavours that flow Noir 2013 HHHH The plum and blueberry- through the palate and Sherbety lift to the plum/ like varietal fruit are layered with some cherry bouquet. Silky integrates smoothly with charry oak and fine smooth palate has good the lovely spicy oak. Nice tannins. 5+ $58 length of dark cherry violet lift to the nose with flavours and nice woody balanced juiciness to the Soho McQueen notes. $55 HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIE palate. $40 95 95 95 Central Otago Pinot Giesen Clayvin POINTS POINTS POINTS Noir 2014 HHHH1/2 Rockburn Central Bright perfumed nose Single Vineyard Otago Pinot Noir with lovely spicy Marlborough Pinot 2014 HHHH intensity. Palate densely Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Lifted perfumed fruit on packed with dark varietal Toasty oak nose with the nose which carries fruit, spices and cedary restrained fruity notes. through to the long oak offering a lovely Cherry fruit on the palate with firm tannins silky smooth flavour palate supported by and a mouthwatering persistence. fine tannins sitting finish. 5+ $49.99 underneath. $59.99 5+ $50 NZ November/December 2015 WINES TATE 61 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_FA.indd 127/04/2015 2:34 pm

PINOT NOIR Giesen Single Foxeys Hangout Spring Vale Cellar Domaine Geanet Vineyard Series Kentucky Road Release Freycinet Pansiot Gevrey Ridge Block 777 Mornington Coast Pinot Noir Chambertin Pinot Marlborough Pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 Noir 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 Ribena-like varietal A huge, powerful wine Savoury soy/black bean Lovely magenta hue. fruit characters with with dark cherry fruit, characters on the nose. Bright intense morello undergrowth complexity, well-handled savoury oak Drying spicy/floral palate cherry lifted fruit on mild spices and fine and bright acidity. Shows showing some spritz. the nose. Intensity, tannins to balance. an attractive minerally 5+ $59.99 freshness and texture 5+ $80 element and has a good dominate the palate tannin structure. Murdoch James 5+ $60 Domaine Epis 5+ $121.99 Blue Rock Macedon Ranges Martinborough Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Mornington 2014 HHH 2013 HHH Peninsula Pinot Noir Nose bright, minty and Stewed fruit nose 2013 HHHH1/2 chocolaty. Very fine, underscored with cedary Deep garnet wine sitting elegant palate with oak and has a nicely in the savoury spectrum. persistent savoury textured and well- Smoky meaty nose with flavours. $70 balanced palate. $50 a fine light tannic palate that has dark fruit good Domaine Geanet Chanson Bastion de oak handling and fresh Pansiot Pinot L'Oratoire Monthalie acid. $65 Sirromet Le Sauvage Fin Bourgogne Burgundy Pinot Noir The Wild Granite Burgundy Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Home Hill Kelly's Belt Pinot Noir 2012 HHH A nose of cherries, Reserve Huon Valley 2014 HHHHH Interesting mix of nettles and cigar box Tasmania Pinot Noir Gorgeous nose - stewed barnyardy, cherry and with a firm tannic palate 2014 HHHH1/2 rhubarb, roasted nuts violet aromas with and bright acidity. Intense lift of dark and delicate violets. similar characters on the 5+ $50 fruit fragrances and Good varietal fruit firm palate. $74.99 a textured and well- intensity opens up along Domaine Faiveley balanced palate with the length of the palate PINOT NOIR 1'er Cru Le Clos everything in check. It layered with fine tannins du Roy Mercurey has lovely cool restraint and caramel-like oak. $100 + Burgundy Pinot Noir of varietal fruit with a 5+ $89 4 TASTED 2012 HHH lean tannic spine. Domaine Faiveley Hints of menthol and 5+ $60 Craggy Range Aroha 4 AWARDED 1'er Cru La Combe tar on the nose. Firm Te Muna Road Aux Moines Gevrey balanced palate with Pooles Rock Martinborough Pinot A largely Burgundian Chambertin Pinot dense savoury/tar Tasmania Pinot Noir 2013 HHHHH line-up of iconic styles Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 flavours. $59.99 Noir 2011 HHH Leafy dark fruit bouquet Lovely deep garnet hues Warm and earthy with hints of toffee-like with compact acid and and a combo of blueberry PINOT NOIR with dark fruits, some notes. Big rich palate good tannin lines. One and barnyard-like aromas. The long firm palate has leathery notes and $60-$70 refreshing acidity. with excellent balance Aussie pinot matched it intense dense flavour between the lovely ripe with the best. 5 TASTED 5+ $65 fruit and well-handled profile and nicely textured tannins. $139.99 4 AWARDED oak and showing Spring Vale Family PINOT NOIR savoury bacon notes. Selection Freycinet Domaine Faiveley \"A strong class well $70-$100 5+ $99.95 Coast Pinot Noir 1'er Cru Les Porets 2013 HHHH1/2 worth the price,\" agreed 9 TASTED Seville Estate Old Beautiful spicy red fruit Saint Georges Nuits St Georges Pinot the judges. Excellent 6 AWARDED Vine Reserve Yarra fragrances with fine Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Valley Pinot Noir varietal character along 2013 HHHH spicy elements. Nicely Cherry-like fruit textured palate with ever with good fruit weight. A strong class without Dark fruit and toasty oak present sweet varietal characters nicely balanced by smoky/ These wines will reward fault. Some great on the nose and a very fruit. Nice line of acid and bacony oak and big palate with intense with cellaring. examples showing varietal fruit flavours, a fine tannin profile. $100 supported by a firm character and class. ripe tannins and firm tannin backbone. $121.99 oak. 5+ $70 62 WINES TATE November/December 2015



CHAMPA GNE & SPARKLING 163 TASTED 106 AWARDED CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING A very nice line-up of bubblies from the fresh and lively to the Arrogant Frog Syn Cuvee Blanc Lily Pad Pink McLaren Vale BEST complex and yeasty; a style for every palate. In the mix we also France Sparkling Coonawarra VALUE BUYS saw some excellent champagnes and Italian proseccos. Rosé NV HHH Chardonnay Pinot Lively lifted strawberry Noir NV HHH1/2 aromas and a fatter Stylish, complex citrus palate with good aromas with light melon yeastiness and sugar/ notes. Good balance acid balance. $9.90 between the acid, yeast and fruit on the palate. MOSCATO SPARKLING SPARKLING Yellowglen Pink $18 4 TASTED UNDER $10 ROSÉ South Eastern Australia Sparkling 2 AWARDED 8 TASTED 7 TASTED Rosé NV HHH 1 AWARDED 3 AWARDED Salmon pink wine with A sweet group for entry yeasty strawberry nose level drinkers with a Simple flight of A small mixed group and similar characters persisting on the palate. couple showing how it unbalanced wines where of wines with the best $14.99 can be done with a good sugar was substituted having more fruit and balance of acidity. for flavour. Only one balanced structure. NON- Mojo South good example. Some great vibrant VINTAGE Australia Moscato colours but the judges SPARKLING 2015 HHH Yellowtail Bubbles did expect more flavour Salmon pink wine with Sparkling White $10-$20 estery grape aromas and NV HHH than these wines 21 TASTED candy floss sweetness Lemony aromas with exhibited. on the palate. $15 floral hints. Lovely palate 8 AWARDED - very good chardonnay Yellowglen Perle Claire Creek South fruit characters. $9 South Eastern Overall good value from Eastern Australia Australia Vintage this group showing Moscato Rosa Rosé 2008 HHH1/2 NV HHH Complex aged complexity emerging, Musky sherbety nose strawberry aromas and a some style and better Jacob's Creek and sweet berry fruit somewhat sweet palate balance of fruit and acids. Trilogy South flavours with just the with good balance and Australia Cuvee Brut right amount of acidity. weight of fruit. $29.99 NV HHH1/2 $4.99 Yellowglen Yellow South Eastern Slightly honeyed Australia Sparkling characters to the nose. NV HHH1/2 Hints of strawberry Citrus aromas with hints flavours on the stylish of peaches. Very good palate with good level of balance and complexity to acidity. $16.49 the palate with excellent acidity. $14.99 JUDGES - DAY 1 Roger Harbord Nick Haselgrove Trina Smith Senior Winemaker Vinpac Winestate’s 2010 Senior sparkling International, responsible Australian Winemaker winemaker for Treasury for all contract sparkling of the Year. Winemaker/ Wine Group. Judged processes involving over Director of Adelaide at Royal Brisbane 30 wine companies. Winemakers. Former and Sydney wine Previously chief sparkling chief winemaker at shows along with winemaker Cockatoo Haselgrove Wines. A other regional shows. Ridge and Normans Wines. ‘flying winemaker’ from Previously at Master Has judged at Canberra 1993-95. Judge at Hobart Winemakers and wine show, and worked in for 3 years and associate Brown Bros. Has Champagne and California. judge at Adelaide in vintaged in California, 1996-97. Italy, South Africa and France. 64 WINES TATE November/December 2015

var ietal tasting Patrick of VINTAGE Coonawarra Mother of Pearl Coonawarra SPARKLING Chardonnay Pinot $10-$20 NV HHH1/2 Attractive aromatic lift 4 TASTED with some aged notes. 1 AWARDED Excellent balance and length to the palate with tart grapefruit notes. A small group with one $19 wine recommended. Yellowglen Vintage South Eastern Australia Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2013 HHH Smells like lime juice with good yeast complexity and a fine palate with balanced sugar/acid. $19.99 NON- VINTAGE SPARKLING $20-$30 9 TASTED 7 AWARDED \"These wines were right Trentham BEST on track,\" said one judge, Estate River VALUE \"showing good fruit BUYS Retreat Murray and well-made yeast Darling Chardonnay Pinot Noir autolysis creating a more NV HHH1/2 French-like character. Delicate melon bouquet There were a few that with strawberry notes. Good palate structure were overtly sweet\". with good fresh fruit and Overall a solid class. balancing acidity. $12 Mojo Adelaide Hills Veuve Amiot Chardonnay Pinot Saumur France Noir NV HHHH Brut NV HHH \"Old world charm,\" Citrussy aromas with according to one judge. floral notes. Good palate Developed nutty nose structure with some with hints of roses and stylish fruit. $12.50 delicious flavours that slide down the throat. Amber Rock $20 BEST Special Cuvee VALUE Victoria Brut BUYS Borambola VIII Reserve NV HHH Sparkling Gundagai A flowery lift to the Blanc de Blancs nose and quite a fruity NV HHHH palate with some nice Inviting wine. Good nuttiness. $13.99 bead, nicely integrated fragrant primary fruit St Hilaire with balanced acidity Blanquetbrut De and a toasty fragrant Limoux France Brut finish. Very more-ish. COCHET CONCEPT - EPERNAY - PHOTOS : L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, SACHEZ CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION. NV HHH 5+ $25 Pungent and citrussy www.champagne-jeeper.com on the nose and solid, balanced and somewhat complex in the mouth. $14.30 L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, CONSOMMEZ AVEC MODÉRATION November/December 2015 WINES TATE 65

CHAMPA GNE & SPARKLING Capel Vale VINTAGE Sidewood Isabella Cellar Exclusive Rose Adelaide Sassy Sparkling SPARKLING Hills Methode Pemberton $20-$30 Traditionnelle Chardonnay Pinot 2012 HHH1/2 NV HHHH 13 TASTED Has everything - fresh Beautiful yeast autolysis 11 AWARDED fruit, yeast complexity dancing above the and flavour intensity. tight earthy/strawberry It's an elegant yet fruit characters. \"Really Very consistent group 'confident' wine. $28 promising,\" said one of intense, powerful and judge. 5+ $26.99 'confident' wines with Bird in Hand good ageing potential. Adelaide Hills Callipari Blanc Pinot Noir de Blanc Murray Excellent value here! 2015 HHH Darling Chardonnay \"A Barbie pink\" wine with NV HHH1/2 a confectionery nose A good consumer style and sweet strawberries with loads of character. and cream palate. $28 It's rich and toasty with salivating acidity. Drinking well now. $25 BEST Hugo Cuvee VALUE Taltarni Vineyards Wicks Estate McLaren Vale BUYS Brut 2011 HHHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay NV HHH Subtle fruit bouquet but Chardonnay Pinot A light spicy style of powerful intensity of Noir 2011 HHHH sparkling with savoury flavours with some great Amazing floral overtones and some dosage and balancing strawberry aromas - minerally flintiness. acidity. \"Has a Tassie feel very youthful with a $20 to it,\" according to one refreshing, delicately judge. 5+ $24 flavoured, palate Fox Creek Arctic showing pleasant Fox McLaren Vale Blue Pyrenees creamy texture. Sparkling White Estate Vintage 5+ $25 NV HHH Brut Pyrenees An interesting powerful Chardonnay Pinot Preston Peak wine driven by fresh fruit Noir Pinot Meunier Granite Belt Pinot layered with whipped 2011 HHHH Noir Chardonnay honey! 3-5 $23 Bunnamagoo Estate Quite fruity with robust 2007 HHHH Central Ranges citrus aromas and a A rich complex wine Michelini Cuvee Sparkling Pinot long well-integrated layered with still fresh Alpine Valleys Pinot Noir Chardonnay palate with strong acid fruit flavours layered Chardonnay NV HHH 2011 HHHHH backbone. \"Still a pup,\" with lingering aged Cockfighter's Fresh aromas with some Very champagne-like said one. 5+ $26 honeyed notes and good Ghost Reserve yeast interest on the light, with a bold, commanding line of acid. $28 Orange Pinot Noir minerally palate. Aperitif buttery preserved citrus Salinger Henty Chardonnay style. 3-5 $25 nose and a charming Vintage Cuvee Wolf Blass Gold 2010 HHH toasty honeyed palate Label Adelaide Hills Golden wine with fine carried by zingy lime 2011 HHHH bubbles, subtle estery A lively fresh citrus nose Chardonnay Pinot sherbet-like acid line. with a certain elegance. Noir 2012 HHH1/2 aromas and a strong, silky 5+ $29.95 smooth palate. $26.50 Palate is like a fresh A well-made, plate of pears, melons developed, nutty style and lemons. Nice nougat with some citrus and notes. $29.99 elegant floral notes and crisp refreshing acidity. 5+ $24.99 JUDGES - DAY 2 Russell Johnson Stephen Brown Peta Baverstock CEO of Russell Johnson Former Winemaker Sparkling winemaker/ Consulting, for wine and Viticulturist for consultant. Has judged & spirit research and Padthaway Estates at Limestone Coast development. Formerly Sparkling winemakers. and Royal Adelaide wine division technical Has vintaged in wine shows. Previously manager of Beringer Champagne and has sparkling winemaker Blass Wine Estates. Eight completed Masters at Accolade Wines and years’ experience as of Winemaking in Domaine Chandon. production manager with Burgundy. Judged in Vintaged at La Crema in Seagram Spirits. Adelaide South Africa, New Sonoma and Bollinger wine show judge in the Zealand, France and (Champagne). Finalist in brandy class. Australia. the Vin de Champagne Award three times. 66 WINES TATE November/December 2015

var ietal tasting BEST Yellowglen Perle Syn Rouge VALUE South Eastern Coonawarra BUYS Australia Vintage Sparkling Shiraz 2009 HHH NV HHH Complexity of citrus, oak Slightly earthy/forest and honeyed fragrances. floor fragrances with Huge mouthful of sweet rich fruit cake-like flavour toasty flavours. $29.99 complexity. $18 NON- Jip Jip Rocks South Australia Sparkling VINTAGE Shiraz NV HHH SPARKLING A well-balanced aged wine with light marzipan, RED nut and raspberry characters. $20.95 14 TASTED 7 AWARDED Fox Creek Vixen McLaren Vale Sparkling Red \"A lot of oak dominance NV HHH here,\" noted one judge. Rich, complex, savoury \"Whilst there were and tannic style with others that lacked well-judged balance of sugar and acid. $23 structure; you don’t just make a red wine Mount Avoca Jack and add bubbles.\" Barry Pyrenees Victoria Sparkling Fortunately winemakers Shiraz NV HHH are pulling back on overt Simple aged shiraz with sweetness. well-balanced sweetness, proud tannic and Blue Pyrenees barnyardy notes. $37.95 Estate Pyrenees Sparkling Shiraz VINTAGE NV HHHH Dark, brooding and SPARKLING chocolaty. Nice RED mintiness on the nose and rich balanced palate 13 TASTED offering a mouthful of 6 AWARDED fruit cake flavours. $26 Bundaleer Southern Those recommended Flinders Sparkling had nice fruit, tannin Shiraz NV HHH1/2 and sugar/acid balance. Well balanced oak-driven The problems with the style with fruit cake-like characters. Savoury/ 2011 vintage continue in leathery tones and some the vintage red bubbles. sweetness. $22 \"To go vintage you need Swire & Noble Silver to have a cracker of a Collection South year,\" said one judge. Australia Sparkling \"You don’t have the Shiraz NV HHH A lovely complexity advantage of blending.\" of dark fruits layered with tar and licorice-like characters. Lots of oak. $15 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 67

CHAMPA GNE & SPARKLING Jones Winery & Bottega Vini Dei Clover Hill Vineyard Rutherglen Poeti Valdobbiadene Tasmanian Sparkling Shiraz Italy Prosecco Cuvee Tasmania 2012 HHH DOCG NV HHH Chardonnay Pinot Dusty red and blue Spicy nose with Noir Pinot Meunier fruit fragrances with honeyed notes. NV HHH nicely textured ripe Mouthfilling fresh lemon \"A fun wine - smells tannic palate and spicy flavours. Sweetness at like an English country flavours. $42 start and finish. $25.99 garden,\" thought one judge. Very pretty aperitif Peter Lehmann style. $32 Black Queen Barossa Sparkling Shiraz VINTAGE 2010 HHH Pleasant Marmite-like SPARKLING development layered with raspberry fruit. $30-$40 Simple but showing its 19 TASTED age well. $42 15 AWARDED PROSECCO A consistent class 8 TASTED offering, overall, good Buller Wines 4 AWARDED Verdun Park Wines drinkability. However Calliope Rutherglen Amelia Adelaide Sparkling Shiraz A clean group but too Hills Sparkling not many wines had 2001 HHHH1/2 NV HHHH1/2 the yeast autolysis you Beautifully aged wine many hard wines. Elegant and would expect to start with developed fruit- sophisticated with seeing in this price cake-like complexity complex inviting aromas on the nose and of primary fruit with well- bracket. well-structured, nicely integrated yeast. Very balanced, palate with flavoursome with nice more of the fruit cake- Bottega Vini Dei line of acid - very French- like characters. $42 Poeti Gold DOC like. 5+ $34.99 Valdobbiadene Italy Seppelts Original Prosecco NV HHH Akarua Victoria Sparkling Persistent bubbles, Bannockburn Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 green notes to the nose Central Otago Attractive estery jubey and smooth complex Brut NV HHHH blue fruit aromas and layers of flavours. $39.99 A lovely elegant wine flavours supported by with a fresh fragrant grainy tannins and with a NON- fruit bouquet and bright drying finish. $24.99 lively palate with citrussy VINTAGE tones and refreshing Barking Mad Cuvee SPARKLING acidity. $32.50 NZ Shiraz Clare Valley Sparkling Shiraz $30-$40 Palmer Sparkling 2013 HHH 5 TASTED Diamonds Private Chocolaty/licorice Collection Margaret aromas and very tannic 5 AWARDED River Sparkling palate but with good White NV HHHH fruit persistence. $18 Bottega Vini BEST A small, solid group A lighter style of VALUE Dei Poeti BUYS sparkling showing lovely Koonara Estate DOC Treviso Italy with good balance and layers of fruit freshness, The Golden Orb Prosecco as one judge described, toasty development Longview W. Wagtail Coonawarra NV HHH1/2 \"Complexity from being and some quite punchy Adelaide Hills Sparkling Shiraz Nashi pear aromas able to move parcels of acidity. $35 Chardonnay Pinot and a very varietal 2013 HHH green apple-like palate Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 A complexity of briary fruit around\". Gallagher Sparkling Described by one as a fruit and sweet licorice offering some refreshing Duet Canberra Pinot \"thoughtful wine\". Pretty with smooth balance of quaffing. $19.99 Noir Chardonnay floral fragrances and tannins and sugar. $25 NV HHH1/2 bright delicate palate Zonin Italy Prosecco Heaps of complexity layered with citrus fruit NV (187ml x3) HHH here with a lovely \"halo\" and yeast. \"A lovely Intense lifted candied of bubbles and some wine,\" concluded one lime bouquet and a delicate floral fruit with judge. 5+ $30 lemonade-like palate warming alcohol. $30 with good acid/sugar balance. $9.99 68 WINES TATE November/December 2015

var ietal tasting Coldstream Hills Sutherland Estate Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Yarra Valley Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay Pinot Noir Chardonnay Noir 2011 HHHH 2010 HHH Big, ripe and bold Subdued nose with hints and showing obvious of vanilla and spice and development with lovely well-integrated toasty/ long layers of flavours, citrus flavours. $35 good yeastiness and tight acidity. $32.99 Toppers Mountain Sparkling New Leura Park Vintage England Chardonnay Grande Blanc de Pinot Noir Blanc Geelong 2009 HHH Chardonnay A bold firm sparkling 2014 HHH1/2 showing some attractive A bright, clean and rich age development. fresh sparkling offering Dry on the finish. $38 a lovely mouthful of fresh fruit flavours underscored by a tight line of acidity. $30 AUSTRALIAN Mistletoe Petillant Audrey Wilkinson Chandon Prestige Blanc de Blanc Clairault Margaret Blanc de Blanc & NEW Yarra Valley Cuvée Hilltops Chardonnay River Sparkling Hunter Valley ZEALAND 2005 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay Chardonnay Impossibly youthful for A very strong wine 2013 HHH1/2 2011 HHH1/2 SPARKLING a 10 year-old! Smells with commanding and A light simple fruity style A beautiful wine - light of whipped toffee with complex aromas and that's still very youthful and easy - pretty and $40+ hints of the barnyard. a powerfully decadent and exhibiting some elegant. The floral-like 13 TASTED Upfront sweetness on palate with beautifully very well-integrated tight varietal fruit is edged 12 AWARDED the palate that's nicely integrated flavours. Loads primary fruit flavours. with yeasty toasty integrated with the of character here. $35 $35 CD notes. $36.50 toasty age. $89.50 CD The best had freshness Blue Pyrenees Ross Hill Vintage Seville Estate Estate Midnight Brut Orange and vibrancy rather Blanc De Blanc Yarra Cuvee Pyrenees Chardonnay Pinot than yeast complexity. Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 A consistently high 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 Complex honeyed nose A big bold style with Smells of mandarin and good fruit/yeast standard with a number subtle spicy yeasty peel with a light yeast integration on the palate showing cellaring aromas and some lovely presence and has showing a very nice potential. \"A credit minerality on the fruity powerful citrus flavours French influence. $30 to those who made palate with very more- with refreshing acidity. ish acidity. 5+ $45 5+ $32 Mount Avoca Lisa the effort to develop Marie Pyrenees an extended triage; Umamu Estate Mosquito Hill Blanc Victoria Chardonnay expensive exercise Margaret River de Blancs Southern 2012 HHH Sparkling Fleurieu Chardonnay A fruit focused that's disappearing.\" Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 European style - quite Akarua 2005 HHHH Nutty melon bouquet sherbety and still very Bannockburn \"Overwhelmingly with elegant refined youthful. $37.95 Central Otago intellectual\" was how fruit flavours nicely Vintage Brut one judge described punctuated by the Heemskerk Abels this wine. Smells of yeast autolysis and firm Tempest Tasmania 2010 HHHHH fig jam and berries acidity. $32 Chardonnay Pinot Beautiful yeast autolysis with complex layers of obvious on the nicely Noir 2011 HHH ageing nose. The creamy flavour. $63 Gallagher Blanc Smithbrook The Pungent nutty palate is showing some de Blanc Canberra Yilgarn Methode mushroomy nose upfront fruit sweetness Chandon Yarra Valley District Chardonnay Traditionelle with similar characters encapsulated by the Vintage Brut 2009 HHHH1/2 Blanc de Blancs echoed on the long yeasty developed 2011 HHHH Smart and well-made 2011 HHH1/2 palate. $34.99 characters. $45 NZ A light yeastiness on pretty citrus style of An aperitif style with the nose and palate sparkling with great lifted citrussy fruit, bright with nice sweet fruit generosity of fruit, acidity and hints of presence, good acidity elegant yeast autolysis, oyster shell minerality. and well-integrated nice toasty aged Shows lots of promise. toastiness Aperitif style. notes and crisp acid 5+ $35 5+ $40.99 backbone. $35 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 69

CHAMPA GNE & SPARKLING Heemskerk Chestnut Grove Coal River Manjimup Pinot Valley Tasmania Noir Chardonnay Chardonnay Pinot 2010 HHH Noir 2010 HHHH A nose reminiscent of Quite strong primary Bonox and Berocca! Big fruit obvious here. Nose smoky meaty palate opens up with yeasty/ with nice flintiness. $45 toasty aromas and it is soft and creamy in the Clover Hill Blanc mouth. 3-5 $59.99 de Blancs Pipers River Tasmania Lake Barrington Chardonnay Estate Alexandra 2010 HHH Tasmania Methode Quite an aged style - rich Champenoise and toasty with honeyed 2008 HHHH notes and some Toasty presence to the powerful acidity. $56 earthy citrussy aromas. Palate still very youthful CHAMPAGNE with good fruit weight and nice yeastiness ROSÉ evident. 5+ $45 6 TASTED Drappier Brut Perrier-Jouet Blason G.H Mumm Chandon Yarra Valley 6 AWARDED Nature No Dosage Rose Champagne Champagne France Blanc de Blancs Champagne France France Rosé Rosé Champagne 2012 HHH1/2 Stylistically driven Pinot Noir Rosé Champagne NV HHH1/2 A fine and elegant style group with rich depth NV HHHH1/2 NV HHHH A delightfully elegant - beautifully fresh with Pretty dusty pink with Lifted fruity aromas strawberry and cream a refreshing citrus acid of fruit and some a light vibrant bouquet with a palate that style with light toasty/ line running through a tannins evident. smelling of strawberries is quite masculine yeasty presence \"bakery of development\". and cream. The palate according to one and a hint of 5+ $40.99 Pol Roger is very elegant, dry judge; a complexity of sweetness. $89.99 Champagne Brut and well-balanced with primary and secondary Chandon Yarra Rosé 2006 HHHH1/2 bright well-integrated flavours. $109.99 Bessarat de Bellefon Valley Blanc de Lovely light fruit flavours. $60 Cuvee de Moines Noirs 2011 HHH1/2 fragrances with floral Champagne France Nose shows a nice overtones. Good depth Tendil et Lombardi Brut Rosé NV HHH combination of yeast, and length of sweet Cuvée Rosé Floral rose-like bouquet fruit and toasty age with red fruit flavours Champagne and quite a long citrussy lovely layers of flavour with excellent yeasty France Pinot Rosé palate with a good acid - not complex but very characters. \"A very NV HHHH backbone. $89.99 nice. $47.99 good wine,\" said one A youthful wine with judge. $155.99 strong creamy oak Yes Said The Seal influence, lovely Reserve Geelong strawberry-like fruit, Blanc de Blanc plenty of more-ish acid 2009 HHH1/2 and tannins evident. $88 A lightness of baked apple and honey on the nose and a beautifully tight, elegant, fruit focused palate. $40 GIVE A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION! A GIFT Do you know someone who would FOR YOU love Winestate Magazine as much as you do? Call us today on +61 8 8357 9277 or visit www.winestate.com.au 70 WINES TATE November/December 2015

var ietal tasting CHAMPAGNE Besserat de Tendil et Lombardi CHAMPAGNE NON- Bellefon Cuvee de Cuvée Blanc de NON- Noirs Champagne Moines Extra Brut VINTAGE Champagne France France Pinot Noir VINTAGE Chardonnay Pinot NV HHH UNDER $100 Noir Pinot Meunier Lifted floral and flinty OVER $100 11 TASTED NV HHHH1/2 on the nose. Sweet 3 TASTED and spicy in the mouth Complex developed 10 AWARDED style with plenty of with toasty yeasty 3 AWARDED character; a perfect undertones. $88 \"Lots of harmonious, marriage between These wines either seamless integration fresh lively citrus fruit CHAMPAGNE showed complexity or and developed yeast here,\" enthused one flavours underscored by VINTAGE vibrant youthfulness, judge. \"Good dosage and salivating acidity. $84.99 UNDER $100 depending on the acid balance however Pol Roger House style. a lack of 'personality' Champagne France 2 TASTED 2 AWARDED stopped a few from Brut NV HHHH getting higher scores.\" Fruity and floral on the nose and a very youthful A small but nice line-up palate with more of of quality champagnes those floral characters showing a touch more evident. Reasonable G.H Mumm Cordon yeastiness. $69.99 Rouge Champagne integration, balance and France Pinot Noir complexity. Besserat de Bellefon Chardonnay Pinot Cuvee de Moines Meunier NV HHH1/2 Besserat de Brut Champagne A light refreshing style; Bellefon Millesime France Chardonnay some spiciness on Champagne France Pinot Noir Pinot the nose and bright Brut 2006 HHHHH Meunier NV HHHH citrus flavours with Very toasty yeasty Good toasty yeasty crisp acidity and good complexity of aromas development seamlessly yeastiness. $69.99 and some hugely integrated with rich powerful flavours and honeydew melon fruit yet it exhibits great and refreshing line of elegance and restraint. citrussy acidity. $78 \"It's very feminine,\" thought one judge. $95 Deutz Classic Champagne France Charles Heidsieck Brut NV HHH1/2 Brut Reserve Showing good yeast Champagne Brut characters and a degree NV HHHHH Perrier-Jouet Grand of toasty age sitting on Very mature golden Brut Champagne top of ripe primary fruit wine showing beautiful France Chardonnay characters. $54 integration between fruit, Pinot Noir rich yeasty toastiness, Pinot Meunier Tendil et Lombardi honeyed age and lovely NV HHHH1/2 Cuvée Blanc de soft acidity. Offers a A very youthful Blanc Champagne lush creamy mouthful of France Chardonnay wine with minerally NV HHH1/2 flavours. $100 chardonnay fruit fragrances and powerful Nutty citrussy nose floral/peach flavours and very soft fruity layered with lovely sweet/floral palate with yeasty development. a hint of yeast and \"Still a pup,\" noted one layers of secondary judge. $79.99 toastiness. $77 Veuve Monsigny Brut Selection Besserat de Bellefon Champagne France Champagne France Brut NV HHH Blanc de Blancs Well-integrated, easy NV HHH1/2 to drink style with G.H Mumm Vintage Quite sweet upfront powerful sweet fruit Champagne - tasting of melons nicely balanced by the France Pinot Noir and peaches layered acidity. $24.99 Chardonnay with very good yeast 2006 HHHH autolysis and crisp A rich, complex and acidity. $89.99 inviting champagne with a broad developed base showing green fruit overtones and beautiful use of autolysis. $99.99 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 71

CHAMPA GNE & SPARKLING Besserat de Bellefon Pol Roger Extra Champagne France Cuvee de Reserve Chardonnay Pinot Champagne Blanc Noir Pinot Meunier de Blancs Brut NV HHHH 2004 HHHHH A well-integrated Rich creamy and sparkling with an spiritous experience inviting intoxicating with bright fruit and yeasty bouquet and driven by the yeast long robust stonefruit autolysis – one judge palate with hints of described it as, “A bit strawberries. $135 like having lunch with Stephen Fry – made CHAMPAGNE me feel intellectually inferior!” $159.99 VINTAGE OVER $100 Pol Roger Champagne 3 TASTED Brut Vintage 3 AWARDED 2004 HHHH1/2 Nose is a rich indulgence of honey, cream and You get what you pay toast. Rich, warm and Tendil et Lombardi for in vintage wines ripe in the mouth with Drappier Cuvee Cuvée Hyménée at this price level. great flavour integration Grande Sendree France Chardonnay and held up by a tight Champagne France Pinot Noir Amazing! line of acid. $141.99 Brut 2006 HHHH1/2 NV HHHH1/2 Another very elegant Quite a youthful elegant yet rich style showing citrus-driven style with a excellent complexity bright floral bouquet and on the nose with layers a refined cut pear palate of minerally citrussy with lively acidity. Lots aromas and lovely of cellaring potential flavours of citrus and here. $127 brioche. $105 72 WINES TATE November/December 2015

S TÉPHA N E L OMB ARD I Of Champagne Tendil & Lombardi What are the key values of Tendil & TENDIL ET LOMBARDI Lombardi? CUVÉE HYMÉNEE 92 Points Wine Spectator Above all, we hold a great respect for the Champagne appellation, and de- Open-knit and creamy, with delicate spite the fact that we’re the new kids acidity lending a mouthwatering im- on the block, we really appreciate and pression to the flavors of apple tart, want to propagate the rich tradition lemon zest, grated ginger and a hint feeding into that. It was important to of marzipan. Offers a smoky, mineral- us that our Champagnes reflect the tinged finish. Drink now through true character of the noble grapes of 2018. –AN the Champagne region. TENDIL ET LOMBARDI CUVÉE BLANC DE BLANCS Which of your Champagnes would 91 Points Wine Spectator you recommend for the Christmas and New Year festivities? Smoke and sea salt notes accent hints of quince, green plum, light toast and Well, I’m always dreaming of a white almond paste, and lemon curd in this Christmas, whether we spend it in France, or with my wife’s family in the minerally Champagne. Firm and well- balanced, with a fresh, lightly creamy US. So my pick for a Christmas Cham- finish. Drink now through 2016. -AN pagne would have to be our “Blanc de Blancs”, which is literally “white TENDIL ET LOMBARDI of whites” and is made from the first press juice of the white Chardonnay CUVÉE BLANC DE NOIRS 91 Points Wine Enthusiast grape. As for the New Year festivities, this is really the time when I see “la Blanc de Noirs, white Champagne only vie en rose”. So while we imagine the from red grapes, produces wines with New Year through rose colored glass- some weight, as here. It makes for a es, what better Champagne to drink rich, full-blooded Champagne, packed than our “Cuvée Rosé”. The beautiful with red fruits while also cut through pink color dances in the glass as we with intense acidity. The fruitiness gains ring in the New Year shape from a zesty texture. Roger Voss Cuvée Hyménée rated 4.5 stars by Winestate magazine w w w . t e ndile tlombar di.c om

tra v el briefs WINSOR DOBBIN LIMESTONE COAST enthusiast”. Rendezvous serves everything from pizzas to a selection from the a la carte menu with a difference, and guests can dine inside or on the new veranda. A selection of house-baked breads can be followed by dishes along the lines of crocodile chipolatas, sardines wrapped in preserved vine leaves or roasted shallot and tomato tart. Main courses may include marinated lamb cutlets, kangaroo mignon or a fragrant pork and peanut curry. There is also old-style hotel accommodation available on site, with three rooms; two with queen beds and one with two singles. All cost under $100 per night but bathrooms are shared. Rendezvous at the Bushman’s Inn, 114 Church St, Penola; phone (08) 8737 2365. www.rendezvousinn.com.au. MILLICENT ON THE MOVE SANDPIPER @ Millicent, formerly known as the Diplomat Motel, has undergone a complete refurbishment. Equidistant CITY SOPHISTICATION slaw. The tight but enticing menu also from Mount Gambier and the vineyards offers desserts like warm local quince and PIPERS of Penola, run by husband and brandy tart with tonka bean marscapone of Coonawarra, just a few minutes wife team Simon and Erika Bowen, adds a and salted caramel sauce, while the from the coast and short drive from the touch of city sophistication to the country wines by the glass range from Taittinger Tantanoola Caves, Millicent makes a good ambience of the Coonawarra wine region. to locals like Raidis Estate, Di Giorgio base for exploring the Limestone Coast Chef Simon Bowen, a member of one of and, of course, Bowen Estate, while the region, including Beachport and Robe. the region’s most famous winemaking bottles include a comprehensive selection The property has undergone significant families, crafts season al a carte menus of locals, imports and interstate gems like renovations and accommodation upgrades, using largely local produce, while his wife Home Hill and Freycinet from Tasmania. and offers newer rooms with new queen- is in charge of front of house. Both formerly Lovers of bordeaux will find names like sized beds, new carpets, LED TVs and worked at the Lake House in Daylesford Leoville-Barton and Chateau Clerc-Milon on wifi and a choice of continental or cooked and have together created one of the offer, and Reidel glassware is used. Pipers breakfasts. best restaurants in regional Australia, with of Penola, 58 Riddoch St, Penola is open The outdoor swimming pool is open for use serious food presented in comfortable but Tuesday-Saturday from 6pm and closed on between October and April, while the on-site relaxed surroundings. Here you can expect Sundays and Mondays; phone (08) 8737 entrees like seared scallops with truffled 3999.www.pipersofpenola.com.au. eatery, Bananatree @ Sandpipers, is open corn puree, broad beans, black vinegar for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, and cashews, or maybe veal carpaccio offering both Thai and more conventional with miso dressing, shaved Parmesan IT’S ALL ABOUT THE FOOD dishes. Start with the likes of salt and pepper cheese and pickled kohlrabi. Mains may LOOKING for casual dining in the squid or pork wontons, followed by 5-spice feature whole roasted flounder with braised Coonawarra district? Rendezvous at the pork or Massaman beef curry, or choose the cavolo nero with sprimp and tobiko sauce, Bushman’s Inn in Penola boasts that it likes of chicken schnitzel, or garlic prawns. or perhaps almond-crumbed smoked pork doesn’t feature “fine dining silver service Sandpipers @ Millicent, 51-57 Mount neck with garlic-braised brussels sprouts, for the elite; rather, it’s a fine example of Gambier Rd, Millicent; phone (08) 8733 apple fritters and pickled mustard seed how eating can and should be for the food 2211. www.sandpipersatmillicent.com.au. 74 WINES TATE November/December 2015

tra v el briefs REPUTATION FOR QUALITY PENOLA’S NEW POWERBASE ST MARY’S Wines is owned by the Mulligans, who have lived in the Penola community for RAIDIS Estate is one of the newest names over 100 years. The property is15km west of in the Coonawarra region, although the Penola, just outside the official Coonawarra Raidis family has been based in the boundaries, but the Mulligan family has built region for decades. Established in 2006 a formidable reputation for quality. In 1984, and run by Steven and Emma Raidis, the Barry and Glenys Mulligan researched estate has one of the closest cellar doors the possible establishment of a vineyard to Penola township and always features a on a section of the terra rossa ridge that warm welcome. In line with its sustainable runs through the property. The following principles, Raidis Estate is to be the first year, plantings of cabernet sauvignon, winery in Australia to provide a Tesla charger shiraz, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot for visitors arriving in an electric car. “We and pinot noir commenced. St Mary’s first don't have the big bucks to do everything vintage was in 1990, this year marking the we would like to do at once, but this fits in LUXURY IN THE COUNTRY 25th anniversary of production that includes with our thinking,” says Emma Raidis. IF YOU feel like combining a coastal break the use of only estate-grown grapes. Small- Raidis Estate, 15741 Riddoch Hwy, Penola, with wine tasting in Coonawarra, Padthaway batch ferments, open vats and traditional is open noon-6pm Thursday to Monday or Wrattonbully then the lovely port town of techniques are used to make the wines, all during summer; phone (08) 8737 2966. Robe is a good base, with beaches and of which are basket pressed, barrel matured www.raidis.com.au. all holiday facilities. Fayrefield House is and bottled at the on-site winery. Nestled a luxurious country home with exclusive among the vines is St Mary’s homestead accommodation just three minutes outside and cellar door, surrounded by 1.6ha of the Robe township. The house is built of local garden that has evolved and developed paddock rock and the original building, circa over 70 years. Drystone walls, paths, 1888, is believed to have been built by the borders and artworks sit among hundreds Chinese who landed on the beaches of Robe of rose bushes, flowers, shrubs and trees. and worked their way to the goldfields of St Mary’s garden has regularly featured Victoria. The property is now a working 113ha in the Australian Open Garden Scheme farm. The master suite features an oversize and is open for viewing from 10am to 4pm bathroom and walk-in robe with beautiful daily, except Good Friday and Christmas views to the countryside, lakes and sand Day. It is sometimes used for wedding dunes. The house has three bedrooms, two ceremonies, garden clubs and bus tours. bathrooms, formal dining room, commercial Adjacent St Mary’s Sanctuary is a 120ha kitchen and open fireplaces. Fayrefield area of pristine native vegetation set aside House sits on a hill among native trees and last century and protected by the Mulligan within easy striking distance of beaches, family. The sanctuary is home to and refuge national parks, golf course, restaurants, for a large variety of native animals and over galleries and cafes. Self-catering or hosted 100 species of birds, including the rare and accommodation is available and a chef endangered Glossy Backed Red Tailed can be engaged with prior notice. www. Black Cockatoo, Barking Owl, Peaceful fayrefield.com.au. Dove and Jacky Winter. St Mary’s Wines, Above top: St Mary's Wines Homestead. V&A Lane, Penola; phone (08) 8736 6070 Above right: Fayrefield House. Below: Raidis Estate cellar door. www.stmaryswines.com. Opposite page: Pipers of Penola exterior. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 75

107 TASTED 84 AWARDED LIMESTONE CO AST Great to see the Limestone Coast back with a vengeance after a Patrick of CHARDONNAY Coonawarra quiet couple of years. Here we see an excellent line-up of some of The Caves Vineyard 4 TASTED Australia’s best cool climate reds, especially cabernets, but also fine, Wrattonbully 3 AWARDED Riesling elegant mid-weight shiraz examples. 2003 HHHHH Small flight of mid- Nicely aged aromas of weight cool climate toasty lime with hints of green apple. The palate wines without oak is complex, intense and dominance. long but still has lovely freshness to it. \"Very Hoggies Estate SPARKLING Patrick of SAUVIGNON good for such an old Coonawarra BEST BUYS 4 TASTED Coonawarra Mother wine!\" $45 Chardonnay VALUE of Pearl Coonawarra BLANC 2013 HHH1/2 3 AWARDED Chardonnay Pinot 6 TASTED Patrick of Earthy and spicy on Noir NV HHH 2 AWARDED Coonawarra Estate the nose followed by a Good examples of Light apple aromas with Wrattonbully lovely rich, full-bodied, cool climate Aussie a touch of fresh bread More quaffers than Coonawarra Riesling fruit-driven palate. and lively fruit flavours 2014 HHHH1/2 $14.50 sparklings. with good acid level. complex wines with Lots of lime and lemon $19 a couple here offering fragrances with a dash DiGiorgio Jip Jip Rocks good lunchtime drinking. of fresh herbs which Coonawarra are echoed on the long Chardonnay Padthaway persistent palate and 2014 HHH Sparkling Cuvee DiGiorgio Limestone mixed with green apple A big rich creamy NV HHH Coast Sauvignon skin characters. $25 oak-driven style with Smells of glace fruit with Blanc 2015 HHH vibrant floral/lemon fruit upfront citrus flavours Grassy asparagus Patrick of characters. $23 and hint of yeast. Plenty elements on the nose Coonawarra of acidity. $20.95 with a soft tropical fruit Aged Wrattonbully Morambro Creek palate $18 Riesling 2010 HHHH Padthaway Very intense aged toasty Chardonnay OTHER WHITE Giggling Goose lime bouquet with 2013 HHH VARIETALS Padthaway excellent persistence Nice integration of Sauvignon Blanc 4 TASTED 2015 HHH of the toasty citrus peach-like fruit with the characters on the long 1 AWARDED Light grassiness on the lingering palate. $39 spicy oak showing nice nuttiness to it. $34.95 nose, more herbaceous BEST A difficult region for on the palate with DiGiorgio VALUE ROSÉ persistent passionfruit alternative varieties notes. $18 Kongorong BUYS Mt Gambier Riesling 1 TASTED but carefully selected 2015 HHH1/2 0 AWARDED varieties can work RIESLING Citrussy lift to the floral Majella Coonawarra as shown by this 7 TASTED nose and good depth and persistence of Sparkling Shiraz vermentino. 5 AWARDED apple, citrus and herbal OTHER RED 2009 HHH flavours, high in acid. Creamy raspberry Tidswell Wines $19 VARIETALS bouquet - nice sweet Heathfield A solid class with both BEST 4 TASTED berry flavours with a hint Limestone Coast youthful and aged Hoggies Estate VALUE BUYS of nutmeg and gentle Vermentino examples showing fruit Coonawarra Riesling 4 AWARDED tannins. $30 2015 HHH Fresh citrus peel aromas expression and cellaring 2013 HHH A strong enjoyable group Good complexity of with simple light bodied potential. lemon aromas and of individual varieties and refreshing green nice fresh green apple apple palate. $19 flavours with slight showing the purity of chalky grip. $14.50 the fruit. 76 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Handcrafted Handcrafted Leconfield Lindeman's Herbert Vineyard by Geoff Hardy by Geoff Hardy Coonawarra Merlot Pyrus Coonawarra Cabernet Plus Mt Limestone Coast Limestone 2013 HHH Trio Coonawarra Gambier Cabernet Montepulciano Coast Lagrein Touch of earthiness to Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Merlot 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 the dark fruit aromas Cabernet Cabernet Franc Plumy nose shows Lifted spicy berry and quite a dry tannic Franc Malbec 2013 HHH1/2 earthy minerally bouquet with a touch palate with good fruit 2013 HHHH1/2 Minty leafy nose characters and has of licorice and some intensity. $26 Very deep purple/red showing leathery aged earthy plum flavours, very intense sweet fruit hues with a spicy berry notes. Nice persistence hint of earth and fine on the young tannic nose showing earthy of spicy fruit flavours drying tannins. Good palate. $30 elements. Fresh and with good tannin food wine. $30 vibrant palate with very support. $22 MERLOT & spicy red fruit flavours Majella The Musician and moderate level of BLENDS tannins. $59.99 Coonawarra 7 TASTED Leconfield Cabernet Shiraz 2014 HHH 5 AWARDED Coonawarra Young, very fresh Cabernet Sauvignon and simple drink-now Consistent class Merlot 2013 HHHH wine with lovely dark of mid-weight fruit A good fruit-driven style perfumed berry fruits. $18 with a lovely lifted nose wines without green and a medium weight overtones. Well done! palate with slightly Patrick of drying tannin and hints of Coonawarra Mother Quarisa Treasures nutmeg-like spice. $26 of Pearl Coonawarra Coonawarra Merlot Cabernet Merlot 2013 HHH Quarisa Treasures 2010 HHH Spicy plum nose with Coonawarra Nose showing nutty minty overtones which Cabernet Merlot leathery age with tarry, is echoed on the chewy 2012 HHHH leathery, earthy aged flavoursome palate. Good medium bodied characters on the palate. $14.99 Majella Coonawarra commercial style but with $19 Merlot 2013 HHH a nice elegance to it. The Banks Thargo A nose of cherries and intense dark fruit is well Redman Coonawarra Coonawarra Merlot vanilla with lovely oak/ balanced by very mocha- Cabernet Sauvignon Herbert Barrel 2013 HHH fruit integration on the like oak. $14.99 Merlot 2010 HHH Number 1 Mt Tarry leathery bouquet nice palate. $30 A touch of menthol to Gambier Pinot and lovely intense sweet Penley Estate the nose with sweet Noir 2013 HHHH fruit flavours with soft CABERNET Chertsey berry fruit flavours Plums and cherries on tannins. $18 Coonawarra balanced by the soft the nose with slight BLENDS Cabernet Blend tannins. $37 barnyardy edge and DiGiorgio Emporio 2012 HHHH some lovely strawberry Coonawarra Merlot 10 TASTED A cassis-like bouquet flavours on the light, Cabernet Sauvignon 8 AWARDED with a hint of mint pleasant palate. $37 Cabernet Franc and more of the mint 2013 HHH Solid class of nicely exhibited on the palate. Handcrafted Big and rich with intense Good plumy fruit length by Geoff Hardy spicy dark berry fruit, blended reds with dark and massive tannins. Limestone Coast some licorice notes and fruits and some showing $50.50 Lagrein 2012 HHHH creamy oak. $23 a touch of mint. Dark inky fruit with hints of earth, black pepper and a touch of leather with good chalky tannins to balance. $30 JUDGES Greg Tilbrook Lee Francis Daniel Redman Barossa based Sensory Research Winemaker, Redman winemaking consultant. Manager at the Wines. Judged Formerly senior Australian Wine at the Limestone winemaker Watson Wine Research Institute Coast wine show Group. Former winemaker (AWRI). On AWRI and Royal Adelaide. at Wynns Coonawarra Teaching Advisory Vintaged at Charles winery for five years. Panel and Technical Melton, Barossa and Previously winemaker at Quality Panel. Tahbilk, Nagambie Amberley Estate, Margaret Associate judge, and overseas at River for six years. Adelaide wine show. Sonoma Valley (US) Completed a vintage in and Okanogan Valley Languedoc, France. (Canada). November/December 2015 WINES TATE 77

LIMESTONE COAST CABERNET Lindeman's St SAUVIGNON George Vineyard Coonawarra 35 TASTED Trio Coonawarra 32 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHH1/2 An elegant wine with a Outstanding class of lovely nose that smells consistently good and of blackcurrant and milk great wines. \"Excellent chocolate. Excellent balance between the clean varietal expression varietal fruit and tannins across the board,\" said on the palate. A touch one judge. \"Lots of savoury. $59.99 regional blackcurrant/ cassis characters; lovely mid-weight balance of freshness, vibrancy and appropriate tannins.” DiGiorgio Family Patrick of Jacobs Creek Coonawarra Coonawarra Limited Double Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon Release Home Coonawarra 2013 HHHHH Block Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon A delightful big rich wine, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHH1/2 deep red colour with 2006 HHHHH A young wine with lots lovely purity of varietal Still an amazingly fresh of potential to grow. fruit. Earthy savoury wine with powerful dark The cassis nose is leafy notes on the nose and fruit aromas - no aged and minty; the well- plenty of upfront dark characters showing structured palate is berry flavours with very yet. Palate is an elegant complex and balanced good tannins and long seamless balance of with persistent fresh finish. $23 blackcurrants, creamy blackcurrant fruit. $24.99 oak and soft tannins. $65 Hamilton Block Patrick of Coonawarra Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 A seamlessly balanced Interesting complexity wine. Quite leafy and from the minty/eucalypt savoury on the nose nose with great balance Zema Estate with a creamy palate and length of creamy Family Selection brimming over with berry and menthol Coonawarra lovely leafy briary fruit flavours; plenty of Cabernet Sauvignon flavours and nice ripe tannins to match. $29 2010 HHHHH tannins. $21 Leathery tarry bouquet Orlando Jacaranda with some nice red Flint's Gammons Ridge Coonawarra berry fruit underneath. Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon Sweet palate; good Coonawarra 2009 HHHH1/2 balance between the Cabernet Sauvignon Great fresh fruitiness fruit, tannin and oak. 2013 HHHH1/2 here with no obvious Shows a hint of licorice A lean, obvious cool developed characters. with some spicy climate style of cabernet Smells of Cherry Ripe peppery notes. $45.95 with minty menthol with a minty lift and has aromas and a lovely good persistence of Bowen Estate lingering complexity Leconfield fruit flavours with drying Coonawarra of sweet dark berry Coonawarra tannins. $109.99 Cabernet Sauvignon flavours layered with Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHHH chocolate. $23 2013 HHHH1/2 Kemeny's Hidden Very deep red/purple Intense blackcurrant Label Reserve wine with incredibly aromas with a bright Coonawarra intense blackcurrant menthol lift. The palate Cabernet Sauvignon fruit fragrances and is brimming over with 2013 HHHH lovely palate structure upfront dark berry fruit A big ripe style of with excellent flavour flavours nicely matched by cabernet showing complexity backed by elegant creamy oak. $35 plenty of length of the creamy oak and savoury dark berry fruits well tannins. $33 balanced with plenty of oak and good tannins. $25 78 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Redman Coonawarra Morambro Cabernet Sauvignon Creek Padthaway 2013 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon DWPAR144121 \"A friendly drink,\" 2012 HHH1/2 said one judge. A Developed leathery blackcurrant bouquet aromas and good and cedary oak and persistence of sweet cassis fruit flavours blackberry-like flavours on quite an astringent on a gentle and soft palate. $35 palate. $34.95 Penley Estate Patrick of Reserve Coonawarra Coonawarra Home Cabernet Sauvignon Block Coonawarra 2012 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon A well-structured wine 2010 HHH1/2 with good weight of Quite complex sweet blackberry-like developed and fruit nicely balanced nutty with chocolaty by the creamy vanilla fragrances and an oak and chalky tannins. elegant cassis fruit- $50.50 driven palate. $39 Tempus Two Pewter Quarisa Treasures Label Coonawarra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH Lovely fruit-driven style Spicy and chocolaty on with lifted red fruits the nose with a tarry showing earthy notes savoury palate and an and medium weight of astringent tannic finish. tannins. $30 $14.99 Warner's Corner Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH Medium-bodied style; good balance and structure and great length of dark chocolaty fruit. $17 Jacobs Creek Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH A lovely easy drinking fruit-driven cabernet that is more savoury in style. $17.99 Mojo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH Cassis aromas with a Majella Coonawarra hint of mint and lovely Cabernet Sauvignon balanced tarry/chocolaty 2013 HHH1/2 palate. $18 Earthy tarry characters on the nose and Kemeny's 1960 Old medium-bodied palate Vine Front Twenty with upfront cassis fruit Block Coonawarra with quite astringent Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. $35 2013 HHH A rich upfront style with plenty of dark fruit characters layered with powdery tannins. $19 www.parous.com.au November/December 2015 WINES TATE 79

LIMESTONE COAST Penley Estate Malone Wines Jacobs Creek Phoenix Coonawarra Wrattonbully Double Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone Coast 2013 HHH 2012 HHH Shiraz Cabernet Attractive dark berry fruit Deep ruby wine with 2012 HHH with spicy/earthy notes savoury fruit aromas Lovely fruit here; lots and very astringent drying and flavours with of spiciness with tannins. $19.99 substantial tannins and upfront fruit sweetness lots of acid. $28 on a chalky textured palate. $24.99 Raidis Estate Billy Coonawarra SHIRAZ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 HHH 20 TASTED Earthy leathery aged 18 AWARDED aromas and long soft berry palate that's a touch drying. $28 Very strong class! \"Lovely concentrated Zema Estate elegance rather Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon than heavy weight. 2012 HHH Nice spiciness and Confectionery sweet sympathetic tannins,\" spicy chocolaty nose said one judge. with upfront sweet berry flavours. High tannins. $28.95 Penley Estate Tolmer Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Picarus Wrattonbully 2012 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Earthy menthol 2013 HHH bouquet with more of A delightful dark fruit- the menthol blending driven style with plenty with the sweet fruit of nutty oak and drying flavours. $50.50 tannins. $23.99 SHIRAZ Banks Thargo Coonawarra BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon 4 TASTED 2013 HHH Dark minty fruit bouquet 2 AWARDED and nice weight of leafy upfront flavours. Tannins \"Nice enough, but needs are a tad raw. $25 more fruit power,\" said McGuigan one judge. Wood Block Wines The Shortlist Single Vineyard Coonawarra Lindeman's Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone 2013 HHHHH 2013 HHH Ridge Vineyard Intense aromas - all Chocolaty berry bouquet Coonawarra Trio savoury, meaty and and a Cherry Ripe-like Coonawarra earthy and underscored palate with plenty of Shiraz Cabernet with berries and acid and tannins. $28.99 2013 HHH1/2 cherries. Lovely Berry and cream-like mouthfilling dark sweet Richmond Grove aromas with earthy fruit flavours with hints Coonawarra spicy touches. Well- of spice. Good acid/ Cabernet Sauvignon structured palate with tannin balance. $30 2012 HHH good length of spicy Fresh cassis aromas and fruit flavours. $59.99 some nice aged notes starting to develop on a highly astringent palate. $22.99 80 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Patrick of Koonara Angel's Coonawarra Joanna Peak Coonawarra Wrattonbully Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2003 HHHHH Quite an intense, A beautifully aged wine; medium-bodied, shiraz good drinking now. Has with lovely varietal fruit a complexity of earthy, showing some peppery licorice, peppery aromas notes and lots of grippy and lovely aged flavours tannins. $20 that still show fruit freshness. Excellent Flint's Rostrevor chalky tannins. $45 Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 HHHH Penley Estate Very intense Hyland concentration of Coonawarra Shiraz sweet blackberry fruit 2013 HHHH1/2 characters on both \"Smells like a blackberry the nose and palate pie,\" declared one judge. with plenty of oak and Some dusty earthiness savoury nutty notes. $23 on the nose and persistent leafy spicy fruit flavours on a medium bodied palate. Gentle Morambro Creek tannins. $19.99 Padthaway Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Nutty earthy development obvious on the nose with very intense concentration of sweet dark berry fruit flavours and a fine soft drying finish. Still quite youthful. $34.95 Jip Jip Rocks Padthaway Shiraz 2014 HHHH A soft, well-balanced, easy drinking shiraz Majella with a savoury meaty Coonawarra Shiraz element to the berry 2013 HHHH1/2 fruit characters and nice A lovely medium bodied chocolaty tannins. $20.95 shiraz with sweet blackberry aromas mixed Bowen Estate with tarry leathery notes Coonawarra Shiraz and an elegance of pure 2013 HHHH varietal fruit flavours Dark berry nose with with white pepper Zema Estate a peppery lift. Lovely notes. $30 Family Selection upfront varietal fruit Coonawarra Shiraz flavours supported by Patrick of 2010 HHHH1/2 big drying tannins and a Majella Wines Coonawarra Estate Big oak-driven style but good acid backbone. $33 Wrattonbully Shiraz there is plenty of lovely Lynn Road 2010 HHHH1/2 big red fruit to match. A lovely weighted There's a strong minty Coonawarra wine with the nose complexity on both nose South Australia 5263 and palate offering a and palate and it has a seamless balance of soft drying finish. $45.95 P : (+61)8 8736 3055 tarry aged characters, fresh plum fruit, cedary E : [email protected] oak and moderate sweet tannins. $29 www.majellawines.com.au November/December 2015 WINES TATE 81

LIMESTONE COAST BEST VALUE Mt. Monster BUYS SWEET WHITE Limestone Coast Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 & FORTIFIED Easy drinking style with 1 TASTED quite intense fruit/oak 1 AWARDED aromas and lovely soft earthy fruit flavours with tight tannins. $16.95 One nice sweet white with balanced acid and Giggling Goose ripe botrytised fruit. Padthaway Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Reschke Mount \"A really friendly young Gambier Botrytis slurpable shiraz,\" Sauvignon thought one judge. Blanc 2010 Lifted confectionery (375ml) HHH1/2 fragrances and vibrant Smells of orange fruit flavours. $19.95 marmalade with intense tea-like elements. Similar Redman Coonawarra characters on the palate. Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 It's sweet but has the Earthy nutty age acid to balance. $26 developing on the nose Raidis Estate Wild with good integration Picarus Wrattonbully Goat Coonawarra of fruit, oak and bottle Shiraz 2013 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHHH age characters on the Blackcurrants on the STAR RATINGS HHHHH A big high acid wine palate. $23 nose and intense, long with lovely persistence and well-balanced Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of of blackberry, spice Zema Estate sweet/spicy blackberry excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. and fennel-like varietal Coonawarra Shiraz flavours. $23.99 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry characters. Moderate 2012 HHH professionals and are compared in peer tannin astringency. $28 Developing chocolaty classes by three judges. nose and grippy tannic Patrick of palate. Nice concentration CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Coonawarra of dark berry fruit a major mail-order business. Mother of Pearl flavours. $25.95 CD Cellar door price. Wrattonbully Shiraz CDO Cellar door only. 2012 HHHH SO Sold out. Lovely drinking here. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Subtle fruit nose with  Contact information pg 135-137. peppery notes; upfront RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). red fruit flavours, BEST VALUE for $20 & under. hints of spice and For a complete list of what we tasted mouthpuckering tannins. $19 please refer to www.winestate.com.au 82 WINES TATE November/December 2015



tra v el briefs WINSOR DOBBIN HUNTER VALLEY REVOLUTION CONTINUES NEWCASTLE has undergone something of a gourmet revolution over the past couple of years, reinventing itself as a destination for lovers of fine food, wine and craft beers. The CBD is shifting its focus westwards towards the major waterfront urban renewal area known as Honeysuckle and the West End, which was a wasteland of deserted buildings just a few years ago but is now home to trendy restaurants and funky late-night bars. Leading the way are two outstanding eateries - in contrasting styles - run by talented local chefs. First stop for any gourmet looking for dinner should be Subo, a contemporary bistro on the western VALLEY VETERAN IN Farm honey ice cream and dulce de leche edge of Hunter St. Chef Beau Vincent, who CHARGE for dessert. There is the option of an eight- has worked at Tetsuy’s and Bistro Guillaume, course dinner degustation matched with serves up five-course set menus in a buzzy, CHEF Emerson Rodriguez is something Hunter wines, while al a carte dishes can relaxed atmosphere and has earned two of a Hunter Valley veteran, but he’s really be served individually or to share. Every hats in the Sydney Morning Herald Good hit a groove at his latest home - Emerson’s plate is beautifully presented and the service Food Guide. Wife Suzie runs front of house. Cafe and Restaurant at Adina Vineyard here is bright, friendly and knowledgeable. Everything is top-notch, from the inventive in Lovedale. The chef patron has almost Emerson’s, 492 Lovedale Rd, Lovedale is food (think dishes like steamed snapper 20 years of experience and he and wife open for breakfast Saturday and Sunday: fillet with mushroom dashi, konbu, rye and Samantha focus on seasonal menus 8am-11am, lunch Wednesday-Sunday daikon, and roasted Galston spatchcock promoting locally sourced produce at 11am-3pm and dinner Thursday-Sunday with braised onions and bread sauce) to sensible prices. He enjoyed success at 6pm-10pm. www.emersonsrestaurant. the affable but knowledgeable service. Emerson’s at Pokolbin, but is shining even com.au. There’s a cleverly concise wine list with more brightly in the casual ambience of his just a couple of dozen wines, with most new venue overlooking the Adina vines and available by the glass. Very different in olive groves. The terrace is a lovely choice INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR style, but also run by an outstanding young in summer. His menu features dishes like FOR GATEWAY CITY chef, is Restaurant Mason at the other miso-cured Tasmanian salmon with pickled NEWCASTLE airport is the gateway to end of Hunter St, run by chef/patron Chris cucumber, soy jelly, seaweed dusted puffed Newcastle, Port Stephens and the Hunter Thornton, who has worked at London’s two rice and fresh horseradish cream, and a Valley, and it now has its own international- Michelin-starred The Ledbury. The dining duo of Berkshire pork with an ash-coated class hotel with the opening of the new $15 here is more traditional, with a plethora of pork fillet alongside a slow-roasted pork million, 95-room hotel Mercure Newcastle choices, but there are plenty of surprises. belly wrapped in braised savoy cabbage, Airport in August. All of the sound proofed Try dishes like miso-glazed kingfish with caramelised gala apple, date puree and guest rooms have high-speed wireless kimchi, togarichi spice and prawn cracker; crisp cavolo nero. Also try the sous vide- broadband, blackout blinds, iPod docking goat cheese tortellini with locally grown cooked duck supreme with duck hash, stations, Foxtel and smart TVs. The new vegetables, almond gazpacho, toasted carrot puree, split peas and crisp barley Mercure is the only hotel located in the grains and herb butter or caramelised pork with an orange glaze, and the roasted Newcastle airport precinct and gives the cheek with pickled red fruits. Don’t miss lamb rump and slow-cooked lamb shoulder Accor group five hotels in Newcastle and the crispy chicken wings with paté, bean with brussels sprouts, parsnip cream and 11 in the Newcastle/Hunter Valley/Central sprouts, pumpkin seeds, buckwheat and pickled onions. If it is on the menu don’t miss Coast region. Phone (02) 4033 8900 or visit jamon cream, which is also available on a the banana fritter, house-made Nulkaba www.accorhotels.com. five-course tasting menu. 84 WINES TATE November/December 2015

tra v el briefs The wine list covers Hunter Valley favourites like Scarborough and Andrew Thomas through to imports from New Zealand, France and Spain. Other good options include The Edwards in the upwardly mobile West End, Reserve Wine Bar and The Grain Store (for beer lovers). Wine lovers should try to get along to Inner City Winemakers, which is part winery, part art gallery and part wine bar. Late at night, try the cocktails at dark and moody Coal and Cedar, or recently opened speakeasy Koutetsu, which means “steel” in Japanese. KEEP THIS ON YOUR RADAR walking trails leading to a number of picnic techniques. “The philosophy behind my spots, lookouts and the mountain summit restaurant is on the experience,” Fawkner IF YOU are looking for comfortable mid- where you can take in views of Hunter Valley says. “EXP. is not just about the food and wine. priced Hunter accommodation with friendly It’s about every little thing - the service, music, service then Hermitage Lodge should be vines. For more serious hikers the Watagan art, painting, crockery, aromas, furniture and Trail is a challenging climb taking in some of on your radar. With 20 rooms in seven fit-out. It’s about every little thing that plays different styles and set in lovely gardens the best forest scenery and vantage points its part in creating something memorable for that the Watagans have to offer. Highlights on 10ha, Hermitage Lodge offers four-star along the trail include Wallis Creek Canyon customers. My food is very contemporary. boutique accommodation and is home to with its dramatic moss-covered walls and The name EXP. relates to the ‘experience’ the excellent Italian restaurant Il Cacciatiore. overhangs, and those views across the but it also is about being ‘experimental’, All rooms include continental breakfast Hunter Valley from the Hunter Lookout. To having ‘expertise’ and ‘exposure’ to tastes provisions, sunny decks overlooking receive a free copy of Lake Macquarie’s and textures.” Fawkner says diners should vineyards, comfortable armchairs or sofas, Walking Track Guide or to book a hiking not expect a traditional dining experience. reverse-cycle air conditioners, coffee and adventure visit www.visitlakemac.com.au “I’ve divided the menu into Food from the tea-making facilities, internet access, or free call 1800 802 044. Earth, Sea, Land and Sky, Cheese and stocked mini bars and satellite TV channels. Sweets,” he says. “There are no entrees, no Il Cacciatore specialises in northern Italian- mains. I want to give back the freedom of inspired cuisine and has long been a A NEW TAKE ON DINING choice to the customer.” Diners can choose favourite with visitors and locals. The Lodge FRANK FAWKNER rose to prominence as from a minimum of two courses ($45) to a is located in the heart of the Hunter Valley at the number-two to leading Hunter Valley seven-course extravaganza ($100 with an Pokolbin, 15 minutes from Cessnock. There chef Troy Rhoades-Brown of Muse fame. But extra $50 for matching Oakvale wines). are cellar doors within walking distance. Fawkner, 26, earlier this year struck out on his Think dishes like black garlic risotto with Hermitage Lodge, 609 McDonalds Rd, own with the launch of EXP. at the Oakvale cauliflower and Pyengana cheddar, Petuna Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 7639. www. ocean trout, potato gnocchi, citrus and hermitagelodge.com.au. cellar door. He began his cooking career at 15 at Mount Broke Wines Cafe, finishing fennel, or pan-fried sea scallops, pumpkin, his apprenticeship at the Crowne Plaza apple, malt and brown butter. The wine list STEPPING OUT Hunter Valley. He then moved to London, features the likes of Tinklers, Gundog Estate WHETHER you’re into strenuous treks or working under Tom Aikens as sous chef at and Scarborough in addition to Oakvale. EXP. Restaurant, 1596 Broke, Pokolbin; serene strolls, Lake Macquarie is home to To’s Kitchen. Returning home he worked phone (02) 4998 7264. www.exprestaurant. a range of excellent hiking trails, with two his way up the ranks at Muse and Muse com.au. of them offering spectacular views of the Kitchen to head chef. His food philosophy Hunter Valley. The Mount Sugarloaf tracks is based around sourcing the best produce, Above: Hikers on the Watagan Trail. feature panoramic views over the country’s highlighting its qualities while treating it with Opposite page largest coastal salt-water lake and there are respect and using the appropriate cooking Left: Food from Emerson's cafe and restaurant. Top: Restaurant Mason chef Chris Thornton. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 85

HUNTER VALLEY 88 TASTED 80 AWARDED HUNTER VALLEY A very consistent high strike rate of fine wines from this historically Pokolbin Estate James Estate Hunter Valley Reserve Fumé important wine region north of Sydney. Known for its world class Riesling 2013 HHHH Hunter Valley semillon wines, the region also produces excellent chardonnay and Some honeyed/kero age Semillon Sauvignon obvious on the nose Blanc 2012 HHH shiraz examples, with verdelho being the upfront crowd-pleaser. with a lovely balance A very balanced wine of lime flavours and with light green edge to minerally elements. the nose. Semillon fruit Good drinking. $25 dominates the palate. $30 SPARKLING Two Rivers Hidden Tempus Two Copper Topper's Mountain SEMILLON 2 TASTED Hive Hunter Series Hunter Valley Barrel Ferment New 2015 England Riesling Valley Verdelho Verdelho 2015 HHH 1 AWARDED 2014 HHHH Hints of figs and dates 2013 HHHH A golden wine with subtle on the nose. Palate light \"Very different,\" said one 6 TASTED One nice zingy fresh aromas and a light fresh and simple; needs time judge. Lots of pleasant 5 AWARDED surprises here. Creamy primary style here. fruity palate with well- to evolve. 3-5 $25 texture, peachy fruit and Very solid results from a retained acid. A simple style but good drinking. slight grippy oak. Fumé Gartelmann Blanc 3-5 $16 OTHER WHITE style. $30 difficult vintage but great de Blancs Hunter winemaking shows Valley Sparkling James Estate VARIETALS & Mistletoe Hunter BEST Chardonnay The Estate VALUE BLENDS Valley Fiano through. 2015 HHH Hunter Valley BUYS 2014 HHH Brokenwood Hunter Light lifted perfumed Verdelho 11 TASTED Fragrances of rose Valley Semillon green apple fragrances 2014 HHH1/2 9 AWARDED petals with a dash of 2015 HHHH1/2 with a lively crisp apple Very appealing spirited herbs and powerful A very youthful semillon palate. $35 punchy tropical nose. A wide variety of styles varietal flavours. Very style with pale lemon A good mix and length and blends with some Italian. $23 hues. Tight lime/green VERDELHO of tropical flavours with nice barrel ferment apple aromas and a Topper's Mountain 7 TASTED well-retained acidity. experimenting and smart Barrel Aged New tightly structured palate 3-5 $18 7 AWARDED with lovely length of winemaking. England Sauvignon varietal flavours showing Mistletoe Hunter Blanc 2014 HHH through. $25 A strong consistent Valley Verdelho Topper's Mountain Intense gooseberry/ class with excellent 2014 HHH1/2 Barrel Ferment passionfruit bouquet. Tempus Two Hunter Surprisingly rich and Smoky fruit aromas; varietal notes and some figgy nuances. New England soft in the mouth. Drink Valley Semillon Gewurztraminer 2015 HHHH weight and refreshing Slightly honeyed, well- 2014 HHHH1/2 now. $30 A riper, punter-friendly, acidity. textured, palate with Lovely fragrances of style of semillon good varietal characters. rose petals with an Topper's Mountain showing good varietal Tempus Two BEST 5+ $22 herbaceous lift. Palate Bricolage Blanc New characters, crunchy acid Hunter Valley VALUE powerfully fruity with England Sauvignon and with the potential to BUYS Verdelho Gartelmann nice texture and good Blanc 2013 HHH age well. 5+ $30 2015 HHHH Jessica Hunter BEST length of crisp acidity. Lifted tropical nose; VALUE Lovely bright looking Valley Verdelho BUYS Good drinking now but some citrus. Big, fat and McGuigan Bin Series wine with fresh tropical/ 2015 HHH also plenty of cellaring flavoursome in the mouth. 9000 New South melon aromas and very Very inviting flinty fruit potential. 5+ $35 Old school style. $35 Wales Semillon youthful upfront tropical salad bouquet. Nicely 2015 HHH1/2 palate. Shows plenty texture and flavours on Topper's Mountain Topper's Mountain A bright youthful style of promise. 3-5 the clean tight palate. New England New England with some passionfruit $17 3-5 $20 Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer hints to the nose. A 2014 HHHH 2013 HHH bit more flavour on Hungerford Hill Lovely nose - smells like Rich and powerful with the palate. Just needs Hunter Valley a rose garden with spicy tones of rich golden time. $12 Verdelho 2015 HHH lychee nuances. Gentle varietal fruit; lots Light lift of gooseberries fruit flavours on a dry of character, lots of and melons aromas. style of palate. Firm on appeal. $35 Some fruit on the the finish. $35 slightly sweet palate. 3-5 $22 86 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Gartelmann Audrey Wilkinson Bilgravia Estate James Estate Benjamin Hunter Winemaker's Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon Selection Hunter Semillon Valley Semillon 2015 HHH1/2 Valley Semillon 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH Tight lifted mineral/lime 2014 HHHHH Bright, lifted and tight Varietally sound with aromas. Tight palate Tight, lean and clean, aromas with a very fruit pastille aromas structure, good line of \"With ten plus years in tightly structured palate. that are echoed on the acid and hints of the it,\" thought one judge. Has the potential to be palate. Good now or for fruit power yet to come. Good fruit expression a classic aged Hunter ageing. 5+ $25 5+ $25 with lots more to come semillon. 5+ $26 and the real complexity Mistletoe Reserve Hungerford Hill still hiding. A great food Midnight's VALUE Hunter Valley BEST Hunter Valley wine. $35 Promise BUYS Semillon 2014 HHH Semillon 2015 HHH Unwooded Hunter Honeydew melon A very young tight, Two Rivers Stones Valley Semillon nose and powerful lighter style. Not a big Throw Hunter 2014 HHH1/2 varietal flavours with wine but well balanced Valley Semillon A pleasing tightly pronounced crisp acidity. with some ageing 2014 HHHH1/2 packed citrussy fruit 5+ $25 potential. 3-5 $27 Clean, fresh and package with lots appealing. Good apple- of promise but also Pokolbin Estate SEMILLON like varietal fruit aromas offering good drinking Phil Swannell 5+ right now. with promise of more to Hunter Valley 2014 come. Long tight palate. $18 Semillon 2014 HHH 13 TASTED Good acidity. A lovely Fruit Tingle nose and James Estate wine for drinking now or Ridgeview youthful fruity palate. 12 AWARDED for ageing. $16 Generations A good drink with Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon Reserve Hunter some ageing potential. 2009 HHHHH Excellent class from an Audrey Wilkinson Valley Semillon 3-5 $25 Stunning golden colour outstanding vintage for Hunter Valley 2014 HHH1/2 with great clarity. Very Semillon Tight varietal aromas the region. \"These are 2014 HHHH1/2 and bright flavoursome SEMILLON bright citrussy aromas and a very crunchy still babies,\" said one A slightly riper style with palate with good balance 2013 & OLDER palate brimming over judge. \"Great for ageing good green apple fruit between the acidity and 10 TASTED with fruit flavours. concentration and slight the fruit. $30 but offering delicious smoky-like characters. 10 AWARDED \"This is why I love aged Hunter semillons,\" said a drinking right now!\" Good crunchy citrus acid Lindemans Bin judge. $35 structure will become 1455 Hunter Valley Outstanding group of Cockfighter's Ghost a lovely rich Hunter Semillon 2014 HHH great aged wines. \"In Tempus Two Copper Reserve Hunter semillon. $22 Surprisingly rich aromas Series Zenith Hunter Valley Semillon for a young wine. both great years and Valley Semillon 2014 HHHHH McGuigan The Forward palate with difficult years semillon 2008 HHHH1/2 A lovely wine; very Shortlist Hunter good citrus underpinning. reigns supreme in the A delightful drink that powerful delivering loads Valley Semillon 3-5 $24 shows class and style. of varietal character with 2014 HHHH1/2 Hunter,\" commented Glorious golden colour, much more to come A delightful drink; lovely one judge. loads of flavour and in the future. Good fragrances of fresh good level of acidity. balance of green apple green apple juice. Crisp Still has a few years in it characters with good lively palate has pretty yet before it reaches its level of acidity. pronounced acidity peak. $35 3-5 $26.50 suggesting of a long life ahead of it yet. 5+ $35 JUDGES Denis Gastin Adrian Lockhart Stephen Knight Senior wine writer Commercial 20 years’ experience in the and author and former Trading Manager wine and hospitality industries Australian trade official in for the Hardy ranging from hands-on China and Japan, who has Wine Company. involvement in wineries, written extensively about Formerly senior experience as a state sales the Asian wine industry. winemaker for manager, managing wine He writes for wine and Haselgrove Wines retail stores, and setting up liquor industry publications and for Briar and running restaurants. He in Japan and South Ridge Vineyard in is at present a freelance wine Korea and for the official the Hunter Valley. consultant, wine educator, Australia Wine Japanese writer and presenter both in language website. Australia and overseas. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 87

HUNTER VALLEY James Estate James Estate Reserve Hunter Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon Valley Semillon 2012 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH1/2 Fresh, lively and Intensely fruity and ripe youthful with light tropical wine with lovely honeyed notes and golden hues and light very concentrated honeyed age starting citrus and green apple to show. Drinking very characters showing well now but has many fantastic consistency. years left in it yet for Nearing its peak - drink cellaring. $35 soon. $35 VISIT US. EXPERIENCE THE Pokolbin Estate Phil Pokolbin Estate Swannell Hunter WHOLE RANGE. Ken Bray Hunter Valley Semillon Valley Semillon 2009 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH1/2 Golden hues, honeyed Developed honeyed lemony aromas and a nose with very ripe perfectly aged semillon intense fruit aromas. palate. Still has a lively Rich concentration of acid structure. \"Delivers tropical fruit flavours – delivers,\" enthused one www.gartelmann.com.au balanced with tight judge. At its peak. $40 701 Lovedale Road, Lovedale acid. Delivering perfect Hunter Valley, NSW 2320, Australia drinking right now! $28 88 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting BEST Midnight's VALUE The Wine Society McGuigan Personal Promise BUYS Tyrrell's Premium Reserve Hunter Unwooded Hunter Selection Hunter Ridge Hunter Valley Valley Semillon Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay 2013 HHH 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 Soft forward style with A young tight wine. Big oaky nose and some age developing. The nose is still a bit tight lean oaky palate Good fruit flavours. subdued and the palate with the fruit peeking Drink now or cellar. \"enclosed\" but will open through and some great 5+ $18 up with time. 3-5 underlying acid. $14.99 3-5 $35 Ridgeview Generations Reserve Two Rivers Audrey Wilkinson Hunter Valley Lightning Strike Reserve Hunter Semillon 2013 HHH Hunter Valley Valley Chardonnay Very young crisp Chardonnay 2013 HHH1/2 fresh style. Fruit still 2014 HHH1/2 Clean and lean with emerging. Needs time A savoury leesy style. poise and balance. to evolve. $30 Light oak aromas Butterscotch notes to and rich, powerfully the nose with good CHARDONNAY structured, palate with fruit expression on the complex flavours and palate. 5+ $36.50 15 TASTED crisp acidity. $16 James Estate 13 AWARDED James Estate Gartelmann Sarah BEST Reserve Hunter The Estate VALUE Audrey Wilkinson Elizabeth Hunter BUYS Valley Semillon A mixed, but consistent Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Valley Chardonnay 2013 HHHH class of good drinkers Chardonnay Chardonnay 2014 HHH A wine with great 2012 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 A savoury, consumer poise and balance with lovely primary fruit. A lean Chablis-like style Tight chalky nose and friendly style with oak and lovely lemon \"Some were a bit heavy of wine with typical lean and clean palate and melon characters fruit pastille-like fruit handed with the oak,\" chardonnay aromas and with good acid structure. and some residual aromas and flavours. flavours. \"Be great with Closed for now but sweetness. $30 A hint of honeyed age. noted one judge. seafood,\" thought one shows potential. 3-5 $25 judge. $18 3-5 $22 Mistletoe Reserve Two Rivers Reserve Hunter Valley Lindemans Reserve Hunter Valley Tempus Two Pewter Ridgeview Chardonnay Bin 1350 Hunter Chardonnay Series Poppys Impressions Hunter 2014 HHH Valley Semillon 2014 HHHH Block Hunter Valley Valley Chardonnay Appealing concentration 2013 HHHH An attractive wine with Chardonnay 2014 HHH1/2 of aromas and intense Buttery aromas and lots of good oak that 2015 HHH1/2 Sweet oak dominates tropical flavours. gentle impact on the tends to dominate the Good tropical and peach the nose with more oak Drinking well now. $32 palate with soft fruit varietal fruit. Some varietal characters with on the palate but has impression, crunchy acid pleasant savoury leesy good oak balance and some very attractive fruit and a powerful finish. A characters. $24 crisp acidity. Will age pushing through. $30 good drink. 3-5 $39 well. 3-5 $40 2011 Pokolbin Estate Reserve Shiraz Pokolbin Estate Vineyard is not only renown for world class Semillon. It is also a producer of exceptional Hunter Valley Shiraz. 298 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320 | Phone: +61 2 4998 7524 Email: [email protected] | www.pokolbinestate.com.au AD_Pokolbin Estate TPH ND15.indd 1 2/09/2015 2:25:57 PM November/December 2015 WINES TATE 89

A little of Bali in the vineyards of the Hunter Valley. If you’re into food and wine and looking for luxury accommodation in the Hunter Valley then Midnight’s Promise Estate is the place for you. Located in Lovedale – the home of the famous Long Lunch – the Estate offers self-contained cottages (2br and 3br respectively) for small groups all set in landscaped gardens and surrounded by vineyards. The self-contained cottages have large romantic air-conditioned bedrooms, generous living areas with log fire, TV, DVD and CD player and stylish décor throughout. There is a full gourmet kitchen and private barbeque area and wood fire pizza oven for your own use but onsite catering can be arranged. The wide elevated verandahs command spectacular views across the vineyards from which the Midnight’s Promise range of wines is produced. If you want to venture out you will find restaurants, vineyards and golf courses nearby. But if you’re looking for somewhere special to spend some special time with a special person there is Villa Janji – Villa of Promise – a romantic retreat for one couple. Secluded and tranquil the Villa overlooks tropical gardens and has its own plunge pool surrounded by a private deck with a Balinese gazebo. The Estate specialises in limited release wines (usually 250 dozen or less) from the traditional varieties of Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz supplemented by a miniscule planting of Viognier. The label name originates from Love’s Usury, the famous poem by John Donne in which he entreats his mythical mistress to “keep midnight’s promise” but is also an allusion to the practice of night 4.5 stars awarded in the harvesting which ensures a promising start to the Villa Janji - Villa of Promise :: a romantic retreat for one couple. September/October 2015 winemaking process. You too can be on a promise! Semillon & Blends Tasting. Midnight's Promise Estate + Wines and Villa Janji www.midnightspromise.com.au 300 Talga Rd, Lovedale NSW 2321 | Phone: +61 2 9235 3947 | Email: [email protected] Midnights Promise DPS ND15.indd 1 9/09/2015 9:31:22 AM

A little of Bali in the vineyards of the Hunter Valley. If you’re into food and wine and looking for luxury accommodation in the Hunter Valley then Midnight’s Promise Estate is the place for you. Located in Lovedale – the home of the famous Long Lunch – the Estate offers self-contained cottages (2br and 3br respectively) for small groups all set in landscaped gardens and surrounded by vineyards. The self-contained cottages have large romantic air-conditioned bedrooms, generous living areas with log fire, TV, DVD and CD player and stylish décor throughout. There is a full gourmet kitchen and private barbeque area and wood fire pizza oven for your own use but onsite catering can be arranged. The wide elevated verandahs command spectacular views across the vineyards from which the Midnight’s Promise range of wines is produced. If you want to venture out you will find restaurants, vineyards and golf courses nearby. But if you’re looking for somewhere special to spend some special time with a special person there is Villa Janji – Villa of Promise – a romantic retreat for one couple. Secluded and tranquil the Villa overlooks tropical gardens and has its own plunge pool surrounded by a private deck with a Balinese gazebo. The Estate specialises in limited release wines (usually 250 dozen or less) from the traditional varieties of Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz supplemented by a miniscule planting of Viognier. The label name originates from Love’s Usury, the famous poem by John Donne in which he entreats his mythical mistress to “keep midnight’s promise” but is also an allusion to the practice of night 4.5 stars awarded in the harvesting which ensures a promising start to the Villa Janji - Villa of Promise :: a romantic retreat for one couple. September/October 2015 winemaking process. You too can be on a promise! Semillon & Blends Tasting. Midnight's Promise Estate + Wines and Villa Janji www.midnightspromise.com.au 300 Talga Rd, Lovedale NSW 2321 | Phone: +61 2 9235 3947 | Email: [email protected] Midnights Promise DPS ND15.indd 1 9/09/2015 9:31:22 AM

HUNTER VALLEY Ridgeview OTHER RED Topper's Mountain Topper's Mountain Impressions Hunter Red Earth Child New Wild Ferment Valley Chardonnay VARIETALS & England Red Blend Pinotage Viognier 2013 HHH BLENDS 2012 HHH1/2 New England A simple style with Chocolaty nose with Pinotage & Blends greenish fruit and low 7 TASTED dark berry notes and 2012 HHH level of sweet vanillin 7 AWARDED interesting blend of Firm and grippy with a oak characters. $30 varietal flavours. High smoky meaty nose and level of acid and subtle big gamey palate. Quirky James Estate A small but wide variety tannins. $38 and very different! $32 Reserve Hunter of wines without any Valley Chardonnay major faults and offering James Estate James Estate BEST BEST 2012 HHH nice quaffing. The Estate VALUE The Estate VALUE BUYS A light expression of Hunter Valley Hunter Valley BUYS varietal fruit on the nose Topper's Mountain Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon and moderate flavour Wild Ferment New 2013 HHH 2011 HHH intensity. $30 Old world style bright Dense berry aromas and England Tempranillo with savoury fruit. Firm flavours layered with 2011 HHHH ROSÉ Spicy fruit nose with grippy palate with slight earthy notes and cigar box oak. $18 green edge. $18 1 TASTED slight mintiness. Intriguing palate; 1 AWARDED intense varietal flavours James Estate BEST James Estate BEST VALUE BUYS with some earthiness. The Estate BUYS The Estate VALUE Hunter Valley Petit Hunter Valley One refreshing dry style James Estate BEST \"Needs meat,\" said one. Verdot 2013 HHH Merlot 2011 HHH VALUE The Estate BUYS of rosé showing nice Hunter Valley Rosé 3-5 $32 True to style. Nice A lighter style with soft varietal character. 2013 HHHH aromas. Great palate merlot fruit aromas and Dry firm style of rosé structure and balance. earthy plum flavours. with very tight acidity Loads of tannins. $18 $18 holding down the fruit characters. Has some balanced tannins. Definitely a food wine. $18 Rediscover James Estate More than just a Winery... Family Owned Single Vineyard – 86 Hectares located in the picturesque Upper Hunter Most awarded Winestate Magazine 2015 Hunter Tasting For distribution opportunities please contact us jamesestatewines.com.au 1210 HERMITAGE ROAD, POKOLBIN PHONE (02) 4998 7992 951 BYLONG VALLEY WAY, BAERAMI PHONE (02) 6547 5168 92 JE-Winestate-03.indd 1 20/08/2015 1:48 pm WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting SHIRAZ Two Rivers Reserve 16 TASTED Hunter Valley Shiraz 2013 HHHHH 15 AWARDED A very young solid wine that one judge A strong class of very says needs \"10 years consistent regional plus!\" Lovely dark berry nose with licorice wines. \"These all show notes. Long balanced good structure and poise palate with soft elegant and will age gracefully,\" fruit and good tannin 5+ $28 support. said one judge. \"Tannins nicely balanced with McGuigan Reserve less extraction and Banton Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz appropriate oak.\" They 2014 HHHH1/2 offer good two way bets; Appealing violet/ drink now or cellar! purple hues here. Good concentration of plum- like fruit, some sweet spicy oak and angular tannins with slight BEST Midnight's Promise Pokolbin Estate alcohol heat on the James Estate VALUE BUYS Hunter Valley Shiraz Reserve Hunter finish. $50 The Estate Hunter 2013 HHHHH Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz \"A fantastic wine,\" said a 2011 HHHHH 2011 HHHH1/2 judge. Nose has upfront A beautifully concentrated Good old style Hunter berry aromas combined and brooding style of shiraz with smoky oak with good vanillin oak. shiraz. Nose shows some dominating the nose. Lots of tantalizing candied-like fruit aromas The palate is soft and fruit on the classically and there's great depth of elegant with berry structured palate. Good fruit flavours on the firm cherry flavours and a now, will become great. and grippy tannic palate. relatively soft finish. 5+ $28 5+ $60 3-5 $18 Discover: Pokolbin The heart of the Hunter. Audrey Wilkinson Cockfighter’s Ghost Cellar Door Cellar Door De Beyers Road, Pokolbin De Beyers Road, Pokolbin (02) 4998 1866 (02) 4998 3688 www.audreywilkinson.com.au www.cockfightersghost.com.au James Halliday Wine Companion James Halliday Wine Companion Winestate Ad_NovDec Issue.indd 1 7/09/2015 3:47:10 PM November/December 2015 WINES TATE 93

HUNTER VALLEY BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR Lindemans Reserve Midnight's Promise Cockfighter's Ghost Pokolbin Estate 2015 2015 2015 Bin 1300 Hunter Hunter Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 Plum and raspberry A very young solid red 2009 HHH \"Clerical\" purple colour aromas with hints needing time. Bright A very \"together\" wine. with spicy shiraz of licorice and some varietal fruit, soft tannins Nice minerality to the aromas and brooding delicious plum flavours and the acid pushing the nose. Richly textured UNFORGETTABLE fruit palate - very tannic layered with vanillin oak fruit forward. $36.50 palate. Plenty of life left. with firm acidity. Needs and firm acidity. 5+ $60 some age to show its 3-5 $28 Two Rivers best. 5+ $39 Thunderbolt Ridgeview Hunter Valley Ridgeview Impressions Hunter Shiraz 2014 HHH Impressions Valley Shiraz Lifted regional aromas Hunter Valley 2011 HHHH and balanced palate Shiraz 2013 HHHH Tight, youthful and with light oak and good Moderate fruit showing slightly closed nose. tannins. Smart wine. on the nose with a Light, well-structured, 3-5 $16 huge fruit/tannin palate, palate with good length lovely oak and good acid of flavour. Will shine Tempus Two structure. A very good with more age. Copper Series wine. 3-5 $40 5+ $50 Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 HHH Tempus Two Uno Hungerford Hill Mulberry-like aromas Hunter Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz and a firm tannic 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH palate with soft fruity An elegant savoury style \"Smells good\" - it's all flavours. Needs time. - slightly closed needing lifted berry fruit and 5+ $30 time to fill out. At the sweet oak. Lovely rich moment the vanillin oak palate with intriguing sits on top of the varietal fleshy melon characters fruit. $75 in the middle. $36 ALDI Liquor aldiliquor.com.au Feast your senses on a Australias Best Value Wine Ambassador Series River Cruise ’ LIQUOR RETAILER * Over 200 wine, beer and spirits are available at your Europe Wine Ambassador Cruises fingertips from our every day range and exciting special DEPARTURES buys. Order now on your smartphone, tablet or desktop APT is partnering with expert vintners from across 16 DAY CHARMS OF 8 DAY ROMANTIC SEINE for quality liquor delivered straight to your door. Australia to deliver complementary Wine Masterclass SOUTHERN FRANCE Paris return. Departs 22 July 2016 experiences on selected cruise departures in 2016. Arles to Lyon. Departs 24 June 2016 From $4,495* pp, twin share free delivery Hand-picked Wine Ambassadors will travel exclusively From $9,895* pp, twin share 8 DAY RHÔNE TREASURES on cruises in Central Europe, France and Portugal. when you spend over $200 † These hosts will oversee tastings of wonderful wine 9 DAY DOURO DELIGHTS Arles to Lyon or Lyon to Arles including specially selected wines from their own range, Porto to Madrid. Departs 4 July 2016 Departs 29 July, 5 Aug & 7 Oct 2016 Delivery charges are on a per case basis. lead excursions to wineries and vineyards, and explain From $5,445* pp, twin share From $5,395* pp, twin share †Excludes Beer, Cider and RTDs. This offer is valid for the nuances of traditional wine-making methods and 8 DAY GRAND BORDEAUX 15 DAY MAGNIFICENT EUROPE selected Eastern Seaboard Delivery locations only. European wine heritage and traditions. Bordeaux return. Amsterdam to Budapest. BOOK NOW FOR EARLYBIRD SUPERDEALS Departs 8 July 2016 Departs 16 July & 18 Nov 2016 From $4,495* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share INCLUDING FLY FREE* Visit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18. On line sales made pursuant to the Authority of packaged liquor licence no: LIQP770010278. *Roy Morgan Single Source (Australia), January 2013 – December 2013. n=8,460. Base: Australians 18+ who specified the store they usually purchase alcohol. *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Prices are correct as at 24 August 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. All offers are available until 31 October 2015 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings only. Prices based on EUFCR16W: 24 June 2016 (Cat. E), EUPDCR09W: 4 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUBC08W: 8 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUSC08W: 22 July 2016 (Cat. E) EUPC08W: 7 October 2016 (Cat. E) and EUMC15W: 18 November 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. All offers are available and are subject to availability, until sold out. Prices are inclusive of $200 or $400 Early Payment Discount, where applicable. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: $400 pp offer is applicable to rours 15 days or longer. $200 pp offer is applicable to tours between 8–14 days. 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp must be paid by 31 August 2015. Full payment due 10 months prior to tour departure. NO EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: A 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. 2nd deposit of 94 WINES TATE November/December 2015 $2,000 pp is due by 31 October 2015. Final payment due 100 days prior to departure. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT3040 ALC6870_WINESTATE_AD_178x135.indd 1 6/05/2015 4:30 pm APT3040_Winestate_WineSeries_24August15.indd 1 25/08/2015 4:10 pm

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015 UNFORGETTABLE Feast your senses on a Wine Ambassador Series River Cruise Europe Wine Ambassador Cruises DEPARTURES APT is partnering with expert vintners from across Australia to deliver complementary Wine Masterclass 16 DAY CHARMS OF 8 DAY ROMANTIC SEINE experiences on selected cruise departures in 2016. SOUTHERN FRANCE Paris return. Departs 22 July 2016 Arles to Lyon. Departs 24 June 2016 From $4,495* pp, twin share Hand-picked Wine Ambassadors will travel exclusively From $9,895* pp, twin share on cruises in Central Europe, France and Portugal. 8 DAY RHÔNE TREASURES 9 DAY DOURO DELIGHTS Arles to Lyon or Lyon to Arles These hosts will oversee tastings of wonderful wine including specially selected wines from their own range, Porto to Madrid. Departs 4 July 2016 Departs 29 July, 5 Aug & 7 Oct 2016 lead excursions to wineries and vineyards, and explain From $5,445* pp, twin share From $5,395* pp, twin share the nuances of traditional wine-making methods and 8 DAY GRAND BORDEAUX 15 DAY MAGNIFICENT EUROPE European wine heritage and traditions. Bordeaux return. Amsterdam to Budapest. BOOK NOW FOR EARLYBIRD SUPERDEALS Departs 8 July 2016 Departs 16 July & 18 Nov 2016 From $4,495* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share INCLUDING FLY FREE* Visit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Prices are correct as at 24 August 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. All offers are available until 31 October 2015 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings only. Prices based on EUFCR16W: 24 June 2016 (Cat. E), EUPDCR09W: 4 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUBC08W: 8 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUSC08W: 22 July 2016 (Cat. E) EUPC08W: 7 October 2016 (Cat. E) and EUMC15W: 18 November 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. All offers are available and are subject to availability, until sold out. Prices are inclusive of $200 or $400 Early Payment Discount, where applicable. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: $400 pp offer is applicable to rours 15 days or longer. $200 pp offer is applicable to tours between 8–14 days. 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp must be paid by 31 August 2015. Full payment due 10 months prior to tour departure. NO EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: A 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp is due by 31 October 2015. Final payment due 100 days prior to departure. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT3040 APT3040_Winestate_WineSeries_24August15.indd 1 25/08/2015 4:10 pm

tra v el briefs WINSOR DOBBIN NORTH EAST VICTORIA SETTING A NEW TONE they drink,” he says. “We wanted our thirsty Victoria where she is coaxing maximum local crowd to be able to discover wines that flavour out of fruit from several different OPENED at the start of the year, Thousand we love to drink and from wineries abroad vineyards, but her cellar door is in Bright, Pound, in Main St, Rutherglen, has quickly that we have a special affiliation with.” shared with local wineries Bushtrack and become a favourite with locals and visitors. Thousand Pound also has a small offering Mount Buff. The tasting room offers free The wine bar and store concept has been of local and imported cider, beers and tastings and wine by the glass, cheese developed by experienced restaurateur spirits. Housed in an original Victorian store and antipasto platters, and beers and Denis Lucey, of Bottega in Melbourne, in collaboration with his wife, Eliza Brown, front, the building has been renovated by ciders are also available. Don’t try to visit and her All Saints Estate siblings, Nick and Lucey and the All Saints team - and given during February or March, however. Billy Angela. A relaxed venue with bar seating, a spruce up in July. Chef’s Simon Arkless Button is a small operation and closes it sets a new tone for Rutherglen and has and Cait Mitchelhill from the hatted Terrace its cellar door during vintage. Billy Button already picked up awards for its wine list. Restaurant at All Saints Estate prepare cellar door, 2D Anderson St, Bright is open “After talking to the locals it seemed that simple bar food, including house-smoked 11am-5.30pm Friday-Sunday; phone (03) there was an opportunity to open a wine salmon and local marinated olives. 5755 5191. www.billybuttonwines.com. bar in the main street that was relaxed Thousand Pound, 82 Main St, Rutherglen, au. Marsh’s wines are also on sale at the and inviting enough to come in alone and is open Friday and Saturday 5pm- adjacent Birbante Pizzeria, which is open have a glass of wine at the bar or meet 11pm; phone (02) 6035 2222. www. Wednesday-Saturday from 5.30pm and is up with some friends,” Lucey says. “We thousandpound.com.au. fully licensed. feel that it gives the town a much needed meeting place for locals and tourists.” Nick TASTE OF THE HIGH TRIBUTE TO TRADITION Brown created the extensive wine list with COUNTRY family and friends in mind, and sourced it BAILEYS of Glenrowan is one of the “must predominantly from family-owned wineries BILLY BUTTON is the new label of talented visit” wineries in north east Victoria and and winemakers he admires, but the list also young former Seppelt and Feathertop it has a most impressive history. They’ve includes curios such as maotai (rice wine) winemaker Jo Marsh, who has an unusual been making wine since 1870 and some from China and Rutherglen wine cocktails problem for a young winemaker; many of her of Australia’s best fortifieds have been made from sherry. “We grew up in a family wines sell out within a few months. Marsh produced here, along with a range of macho that doesn’t judge a person on what wine is based in the Alpine Valleys of north east red wines. Winemaker Paul Dahlenburg, 96 WINES TATE November/December 2015

tra v el briefs who arrived from the Hunter Valley almost The Lake House, 7km from Rutherglen, is 20 years ago, has done a remarkable job nestled close to wineries and attractions. in turning around a fading producer. He At least six wineries can be accessed by and vineyard manager Chris Timms have foot, bicycle, or horse, along pretty country overseen vineyard expansion, a 2000-tonne- lanes, while golfers are spoilt for choice with capacity winery has been constructed and three championship golf courses within the cellar door boasts a heritage museum, a 30-minute drive. Those wishing not to art gallery and landscaped gardens. venture too far might spend time watching Dahlenburg also recently announced that, for platypus, or there are over 100 species as of the 2015 vintage, all estate-sourced of birds, including eagles, swans and table wines are being made under Australian pelicans on the property. Native wildlife Certified Organic principles. Dahlenburg such as echidnas and kangaroos are regular says the switch is “a tribute to the traditional visitors. A short walk along the bank of techniques used when the winery was Lake Moodemere and the vineyard leads first established”. Dahlenburg's research to the cellar door where guests may enjoy a revealed that Baileys’ founder, Richard relaxed lunch and private wine tasting, while Bailey, used a similar minimal intervention a walk around Lake Moodemere and along approach to winemaking in the 1870s, the Murray River will take about two hours. when he put Glenrowan on the map as Phone Lake Moodemere Wines on (02) one of Australia’s pioneering winemaking 6032 0449. www.moodemerewines.com.au. regions. Baileys of Glenrowan, 779 Taminick Gap Rd, Glenrowan, is open daily (except CUTTING-EDGE COMPLEX Christmas Day, Boxing Day and Good ALPINE ACTION Friday) from 10am to 5pm and the Old FIVE-STAR elegance has arrived in the CHRISMONT Wines in the King Valley, Block Cafe, open weekends from 11am- Victorian High Country in the form of owned by Arnie and Jo Pizzini, is poised to 3pm, highlights dishes from a much-loved recently launched Sebel Pinnacle Valley unveil a new, cutting-edge wine, food and wood-fired oven. The menu features pizzas, events complex at its Cheshunt vineyard house-made game pies, grazing platters Resort. Situated in picturesque Merrijig, a estate. The development was made and seasonal salads. Phone (03) 5766 1600. two-and-a-half-hour drive from Melbourne possible by a Victorian Government grant. www.baileysofglenrowan.com.au. and a 30-minute drive from the Mt Buller ski “Our new home will present a modern face resort, the new-look Sebel Pinnacle Valley of King Valley and take tourist’s regional Resort pays homage to European alpine ADULTS-ONLY ESCAPE style. A recent $4 million makeover has seen expectations and experiences to a new level,” says Arnie. “The catalyst for us ANYONE looking for an adults-only vineyard this Accor Vacation Club’s Sebel Pinnacle to develop our business this way was escape should consider Lake House at Lake Valley Resort morph from the much-loved a combination of our confidence in the Moodemere. The self-contained cottage Grand Mercure Pinnacle Valley into a region’s offering and potential, and our was the winery cellar door before they welcoming and luxurious alpine resort. The visitors’ responses to the beauty of its natural moved that to the nearby old Chambers revamped reception and Peaks restaurant landscape.” Incorporating a wine tasting family homestead. Owned by the Chambers and bar have a modern Tyrolean feel. The area, restaurant, larder, education and family, the cottage offers comfort, relaxation blue stone features fireplaces, chocolate wine sensory room, outdoor decking and and tranquillity, with a deck and living area Chester lounges and raw timber furnishings. meeting and event facilities, the complex overlooking Lake Moodemere, while the Guests can choose from studio rooms, one- bedroom faces the vineyard. bedroom suites or two-bedroom chalets all sits on top of a natural plateau, offering Children and pets are not allowed, making with separate lounge, dining and kitchen magnificent views over vineyards and into this a perfect destination for anyone seeking facilities. The resort is owned by Accor the heart of the valley, and towards Powers peace and quiet. A complimentary bottle Vacation Club, established in 2001 and now Lookout in the west and the Black Ranges of Lake Moodemere wine, provisions for a in the east. See www.chrismont.com for an cooked breakfast, and late check-out are with more than 31,000 members, which is opening date. included in the tariff. When in season, a a fully-owned subsidiary of Accor. Book large bowl of fresh oranges from the family's on (03) 5777 5788 or email reservations@ Above: Chrismont new development. orange grove is provided. pvr.com.au. Opposite page: Thousand Pound wine bar & store. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 97

76 TASTED 58 AWARDED NORTH EAST VICTORIA Victoria’s North East is more than just Australia’s finest fortified region Dal Zotto King Valley Pinot Grigio – that goes without question – it also offers a wide range of excellent 2014 HHH1/2 table wines, with Mediterranean varieties such as pinot grigio, arneis Very varietal with aromas and flavours and sangiovese also taking hold in the King Valley and surrounds. Also of clean, bright pears of merit are the power-packed durif and shiraz wines that lead into and almonds with some autolysis adding those fabulous fortifieds that we talked about. complexity. $19 John Gehrig Wines King Valley Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 Some toasty characters SPARKLING Morris Rutherglen Dal Zotto King developing on the 4 TASTED Sparkling Shiraz Valley Arneis minerally nose. Plenty 2015 HHHH1/2 Durif NV HHH of zesty acidity on the 3 AWARDED Developed brambly fruit Delightful food wine. flavoursome citrus characters on the nose Nose is clean with palate. $32 \"Interesting balanced and confectionery red varietal intensity of complexity with these berry flavours. $20 pears, apples, blossom Scion Fleur and subtle spiciness. Rutherglen White proseccos which you OTHER WHITE Dry, high acid, minerally 2014 HHH don’t normally see,\" palate with great 'pithy' Rutherglen Estate Very pleasant wine; commented one judge. VARIETALS & texture. $27 Rutherglen Fiano hints of apple blossom, BLENDS Boynton's 2014 HHHH apricot and citrus. Dal Zotto King Feathertop Alpine Dry and savoury. Lovely Creamy mouthfeel and Valley Prosecco 19 TASTED Valley Vermentino varietal baked apples warming finish. $22 NV HHH1/2 12 AWARDED and spicy aromas with Clean, crisp and 2014 HHHH more of the same on Scion Rutherglen Restrained varietal enjoyable with fine Those wines that were nose; subtle anise- the beautifully textured Viognier 2014 HHH persistent bubbles, like characters. Lively palate. $24 Subtle stonefruit aromas of apples and reviewed showed palate, more of the aromas with a creamy pears and a dry lively varietal definition and anise elements with Piano Piano ginger spice of a palate citrus palate. $20 some complexity. \"Nice herbaceous notes. Sophie's Block and alcohol nicely in check. $28 Beechworth Dal Zotto Pucino texture across the board 3-5 $25 Chardonnay King Valley showing the region's 2012 HHHH All Saints Estate Prosecco ability to produce these Robust full-bodied Family Cellar 2014 HHH1/2 style. Stonefruit aromas Rutherglen Pleasant green apple/ varieties,\" noted one somewhat dominated Marsanne 2014 HHH lemonade-like bouquet judge. by new oak. Generous Delicate citrus/ with good bead and palate; layers of ripe fruit, honeysuckle aromas enjoyably generous new oak and spice. $35 and dry, somewhat apple/pear flavours. $23 savoury palate. Herbaceous finish. $32 JUDGES Sarah Andrew Daniel Balzer Marc Scalzo Owner Selador Owner/winemaker at Senior winemaker at Wines. Certified Willem Kurt Wines, Rutherglen Estates. Sommelier; WSET Beechworth. Has judged Previously worked as Certified Educator. at Rutherglen, Cowra and winemaker for Brown Judged at the Victorian wine shows. Brothers Milawa Eltham/Daylesford Previously winemaker at Vineyard. wine show and this Gapsted Wines and Sam year Heathcote and Miranda, and has vintaged Cool Climate wine in Rheinpfalz, Germany. show. Formerly on premise work and retail in the UK. 98 WINES TATE November/December 2015

regional tasting Morris The Morris Bin 80 King River Estate Morris CHM SHIRAZ & Percheron Victoria Rutherglen Blue King Valley Merlot Rutherglen Durif Chardonnay Imperial 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH 2007 HHHH BLENDS 2013 HHH Vibrant dark plum and A generosity of plums, A fully developed deep 11 TASTED Delicate spicy green cherry aromas edged mocha and subtle spice dark earthy wine for 9 AWARDED fruit aroma profile and a with sweet spices and with a drying high acid drinking now. Toffee palate with true varietal confectionery notes. drive and long savoury mocha characters definition. $27.95 CDO Upfront sweet fruit on finish. $20 on the nose with The 2013s were the juicy palate. $25 developed fruit flavours. consistently very strong John Gehrig Wines Boynton's 5+ $30 with varietal definition, King Valley Chenin Dal Zotto King Feathertop Alpine Blanc 2012 HHH Valley Sangiovese Valley Tempranillo Rutherglen Estate length and balance. Spicy baked apple nose 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH Renaissance There were also a and interesting varietal Nose developing tar Tarry cherry nose; Rutherglen Durif couple of solid 2012s. expression on the nicely and rose characters brooding earthy 2013 HHH1/2 textured palate. $22 with earthy undertones. undertones and an Dark brooding bouquet Piano Piano Savoury palate; earthy red berry palate with obvious spicy oak Henry's Block Chambers brooding fruit profile with a tannic grip. $30 and drying tannic palate Beechworth Shiraz Rosewood Vineyard with well-integrated with warm sweet fruit 2013 HHHH1/2 Rutherglen Gouais tannins. $25 DURIF flavours true to the A lovely restrained 2005 HHH variety. $50 shiraz with aromas of Interesting! Prominent Dal Zotto King 6 TASTED plums, cherries, pepper development to the Valley Barbera 5 AWARDED CABERNET and spices and sweet nose and ageing toasty 2013 HHHH fruit flavours with notes flavours. Good food A nose of dark berries An icon variety of the SAUVIGNON & of spice and extended wine. $12 mixed with Christmas by the acid. Has time on cake spices. Juicy Rutherglen region. BLENDS its side. 3-5 $35 OTHER RED savoury style of palate \"Great restraint 6 TASTED with a long savoury VARIETALS & finish. A food wine. obvious here for this 2 AWARDED St Leonards Vineyard powerhouse variety BLENDS 3-5 $25 which shows excellent A couple of good Wahgunyah Rutherglen Shiraz 12 TASTED Dal Zotto King winemaking.” examples with dense 2013 HHHH 9 AWARDED Valley Nebbiolo fruit; good weight and Lovely intensity of 2012 HHHH St Leonards cherry and plum Lifted sweet spice, Vineyard Rutherglen balance. fragrances with hints A strong class of floral/tarry fruit aromas. Durif 2013 HHHH1/2 of licorice. Generous diverse wines; cool High acid/tannic palate Developing aromas Morris CHM dark fruit flavours with Rutherglen to warm climate and indicative of the variety dominated by spicy Cabernet Sauvignon very fine well-integrated with a highlight of sweet various varieties with fruit. 5+ $64 brambly characters. 2012 HHHH1/2 tannins. $27 Rich and opulent in excellent examples the mouth, as to be Vibrant cassis, Baileys of of good winemaking. Rutherglen expected with this blackcurrant fragrances Glenrowan Organic with underlying leathery Estate Rennaisance Some age-worthy Rutherglen variety. It has a long life notes. Good varietal Glenrowan Shiraz ahead of it yet. wines here agreed the Zinfandel 5+ $30 definition on the palate 2013 HHHH Oak-driven aromas judges. This shows the 2013 HHH1/2 with great fruit weight with sweet plum and and engaging tannins. value of the regions for Developing ripe cherry, Scion Rutherglen $50 CDO cherry fruit underneath. spice and licorice alternative varieties. aromas. Generous spicy Durif 2013 HHHH1/2 Complex palate with dry Very youthful wine tannic drive and deep ripe fruit flavours with with masses of opulent Morris Basket dark fruit flavours. $28 Morris GSM subtle herbal undertones. sweet fruit showing Press Rutherglen Rutherglen 3-5 $34 great varietal definition Cabernet Sauvignon All Saints Estate Grenache Shiraz and fruit freshness with 2012 HHHH Rutherglen Shiraz Mourvedre Jones Winery engaging acidity and Very varietal with 2014 HHHH1/2 & Vineyard drying tannins. $35 aromas of blackcurrant, 2013 HHHH Developing aromas with Almost candied-like fruit Rutherglen Malbec tobacco and leather. hints of pepper and and spice bouquet with 2013 HHH1/2 All Saints Estate Some subtle sweet spices. Generous those characters echoed A nicely focused dry Family Cellar development showing mouthfeel with dense on the juicy palate that's style of wine with Rutherglen Durif on the very varietal beetroot and dark berry nicely grounded by plenty of length and full 2012 HHHH palate. $20 flavours. $30 savoury tannins leading of brambly chocolaty Confectionery cooked to a long dry finish. fruit with sweet spicy fruit bouquet and palate 3-5 $25 notes. $35 has a complexity of sweet and savoury characters with tannins adding length. 3-5 $62 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 99

NOR TH EAST VICTORIA PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR: All Saints Estate Morris Cellar Morris Cellar One Morris Rutherglen Chambers Australia Family Cellar Reserve Grand Classic Liqueur Vintage Fortified Rosewood Vineyard 7 issues (1yr) $A69 (includes $6.27 GST) Rutherglen Shiraz Liqueur Rutherglen Rutherglen Muscat 2005 HHHH Old Vine Classic 2012 HHHH Tokay NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/2 Aromas reflective of Rutherglen Muscat 14 issues (2yrs) $A128 (includes $11.64 GST) Developing plum and \"Looks like molasses in Caramel and sweet age with dried fruit NV HHH Price include GST, postage and handling. cherry bouquet. Opulent the glass,\" said one judge. spice nose opens up to and spices and some Sweet spices dominate sweet fruit palate; Smells of prune juice and prune juice and dates. licorice. Lovely spicy the nose with more Binders upfront spiciness in dates with a delicious Warm and sticky muscat licorice flavours topped of the sweet spices New Zealand seamless harmony with warm complexity of fruit, toffee and caramel off with a crisp finish. engaging the taste Price includes Airmail. Australian residents only SUBSCRIBE TO acid and tannins. $52 spirity flavours. Excellent palate with lovely rancio 3-5 $25 CDO buds. 5+ $20 Your attractive binder - like a liquid fruit cake! complexity. $35 CDO Please mark X one option: easily holds 7 issues - handy Rutherglen Estate $50 CDO Morris Mia Pale Flor John Gehrig Wines 7 issues (1 year) $A79 for quick reference! OUR COMPLETE Rutherglen Shiraz Morris Black Label Apera Rutherglen North East Victoria 14 issues (2 years) $A150 2013 HHH1/2 Morris Cellar Old Rutherglen Apera NV HHH1/2 Muscat NV HHH Please mark X one option: Subtle spicy plum Reserve Grand Tawny NV HHHH Nose of apples and Beautifully developed PACKAGE aromas open in the Rutherglen Tawny Cooked fruits, baked almonds with flor notes bouquet all dried Asia, Pacific 1 Binder $A19.80 glass. Palate is dry and NV HHHHH pastry and sweet and a dry savoury palate fruit and spices with Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: tannic with a savoury Complexity of intense spices lift off the nose. with lively acid and a a warming, upfront, 2 Binders $A33 impression and lingering rancio aged characters Sweet and unctuous in long finish. 5+ spirity palate. $32 7 issues (1 year) $A120 This includes hard-copy and digital finish. 3-5 $22 on the nose and lovely the mouth with dense $19.95 CDO 3 Binders $A49.50 richness to the palate chocolaty flavours. 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Very WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ and tannins. $30 of molasses-like flavours. A developed toffee more-ish. $22 $50 CDO bouquet with hints of Your subscription will start from the next issue. OVER 500 TASTED Jones Winery & rose petals. Big, full- SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 5 World's greatest shiraz ChalleNge X seMilloN riVer regioNs Yarra YalleY & soUtherN ViCtoria otago, Nz Bird in Hand Featuring Vineyard Rutherglen Morris Old Premium bodied, sweet, dried Penfolds Grange Paul Jaboulet Shiraz 2012 HHH Rare Liqueur fruit palate with a long, I enclose my cheque for $ Henschke Hill of Grace Torbreck The Laird Brambly fruit opens up Rutherglen Muscat lingering finish. Gralyn Estate in the glass and has NV HHHHH 5+ $19.95 payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: brooding savoury fruit Excellent aromas of JAPAN’S flavours with matching prunes and Christmas Morris Classic Mastercard Visa Emerging Wine Culture tannins. $32 spices and a perfectly Liqueur Rutherglen STAR RATINGS HHHHH PINOT balanced and complete Muscat NV HHHH Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of CENTRAL Otago’s claim to fame FORTIFIED palate offering a A harmony of fruit cake excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. September/October 2015 Life in the Vol 38 Issue 5 mouthful of rich toffee aromas and flavour with $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 18 TASTED and caramel flavours creamy sweet mouthfeel, All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Name on card: PRINT POST APPROVEd 100003663 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 spirit world EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 The evolution of Cognac 18 AWARDED with coffee notes. $75 plenty of toffee/caramel professionals and are compared in peer plus Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac Semillon & Blends flavours and warming classes by three judges. Signature Expires / Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria River Regions Otago (NZ) Morris Old Premium alcohol. $22 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Fantastic world Rare Liqueur a major mail-order business. Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 271_CoverFRONT216x297.indd 1 23/07/2015 3:06:55 PM class flight - this is Rutherglen Topaque Morris Cellar One CD Cellar door price. the strength of the NV HHHHH Classic Liqueur CDO Cellar door only. region - a pleasure to Developed nose; all Rutherglen Topaque SO Sold out. GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Why not give a toffee, prunes and NV HHHH judge. \"Great depth dates. Generous and Fragrance of caramels, $N/A Price not available at time of printing. AUSTRALIA & NEW Recipient’s Name and luscious balance creamy in the mouth almonds and cooked  Contact information pg 135-137. ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Address gift subscription? RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). with poise and length,\" with lusciously sweet fruits with earthy BEST VALUE for $20 & under. undertones. Palate is spicy fruit flavours agreed the judges. layered with some lovely complex, flavoursome For a complete list of what we tasted Suburb State Country spiciness. 5+ $75 and developing nicely. please refer to www.winestate.com.au Post Code Phone ( ) $35 CDO Call us today on Please send a gift card to Me Recipient +61 8 8357 9277 or visit Also fill in your details in the section above. www.winestate.com.au 100 WINES TATE November/December 2015 Subscription form FPC ND15.indd 1 7/09/2015 2:19:21 PM