Winestate Magazine November December 2016

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 WINESTATE VOL 39 ISSUE 6 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDECHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING PINOT NOIR HAWKES BAY, NZ NORTH EAST VICTORIA LIMESTONE COAST HUNTER HARNESSING Red RENAISSANCE DURIF’S POTENTAL The Revival of Red Fizz NE Vic shows how it’s done PRESTIGIOUS NewReleases Pinot 233 tasted NZ’s quest to conquer Burgundy C& hSpaamrklpinagg1n5e5tasted H AW K E S B AY 158 TASTEDPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 November/December 2016 Vol 39 Issue 6 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Pinot Noir • Champagne & Sparkling • Best Value Buys Under $20 • North East Victoria • Hunter Valley • Limestone Coast • Hawkes Bay (NZ)





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Like his name implies, Darwin is in a state of constant evolution – always moving and growing in new and exciting directions. From the Paspaley Pearling Company to the Menzies School of Health Research, Darwin is brimming with successful business ventures born from an inherent entrepreneurial spirit that affects all who meet him.So if you want to spark visionary thinking and rapid action,come and let Darwin inspire you. Think unconventionally meetdarwin.com.au Northern Territory, Australia

NO.279 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESAustralia & International 5 Star Winery - James Halliday Wine Companion 2015Peter Jackson, Winestate Publishing James Halliday Wine Companion - Top Ten Dark Horse Winery 2015Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Winery / Cellar DoorNew South Wales Jeanneret Road, Sevenhill, South Australia, Australia, 5453Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966 T: (+61) 8 8843 4308 F: (+61) 8 8843 4251Queensland E: [email protected] Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] Zealand PO Box 61 Sevenhill, South Australia, 5453Debbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] www.jeanneretwines.comFranceMr Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright2016byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 7

contentsNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016FEATURES R E G U L A R S32 IN HIS FATHER’S FOOTSTEPS 12 Briefs Pat Tocaciu might have been the 24 European Report with Sally Easton driving force behind the establishment of the family business, but now its up 26 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley to his son Luke to move Patrick of Coonawarra forward, writes Jeni Port. 28 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Tocaciu Sr passed away in 2012, leaving Luke with 81ha of vineyards 32 30 Wine History with Valmai Hankel in Coonawarra, Wrattonbully and a winery to oversee. In the intervening 38 RED RENAISSANCE 48 Grapevine years Luke has continued to build the BUBBLING AWAY 52 Wine Words family brand and has also steered it in a new direction toward Mount Gambier 54 What’s it Worth? and the production of pinot noir. Fortifieds might be the mainstay 36 for the Rutherglen faithful and now 56 Wine Investment & Collecting36 GOLDEN FUTURE FOR A there’s a growing legion of sparking 131 Subscription Form SURGING WHITE red enthusiasts who also are being 138 Aftertaste New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay has drawn to the district. Tucked away a long history of fine chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and in a remote regional corner, father syrah, and now there’s a new player on the bay - sauvignon blanc. In and daughter winemakers Howard his regional profile, Michael Cooper reports that NZ’s second-largest and Christobelle Anderson are W I N E T A S T I N G S wine region is moving quickly into driving a sparkling red revival, the production of premium sauvignon writes Michael Hince, based around 62 Pinot Noir blanc and this vintage it was the leading variety in terms of tonnage. their flagship red fizz - a shiraz with 66 Champagne & Sparkling a touch of durif. 78 Limestone Coast 42 HARNESSING DURIF’S 88 Hunter Valley POTENTIAL 96 North East Victoria It might have a checkered past in 102 Hawkes Bay, NZ Europe and North America, but durif continues to move into the Australian 110 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases mainstream. Loved for its fruit and feared for its tannins, writes Jenni Port, Australian durif production has been centred around the North East Victorian regional centre of Rutherglen since the early 1900s and enjoys a growing following. 46 PRESTIGIOUS PINOT Burgundy might be the recognised home of prestige pinot noir, but increasingly New Zealand is challenging the French enclave’s claim, writes Jane Skilton MW. In a 42 little over 25 years, NZ’s reputation for producing premium pinot noir that can stand alone on the world stage has gone from average to being ‘all the rage’. To match that reputation, 116 New Releases and plantings have jumped from 1000ha Best Value Buys under $20. in 2000 to a staggering 5500ha today. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 279 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2016 Cover photograph Jag_cz8 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

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editorialAS I WRITE THIS SPRING IS IN THE AIR, and as you read this spring is nearlyover and summer is approaching. Why do I say this? Maybe because after a wet and coldwinter our blood is now thinning, and for red wine drinkers we are looking forward to lighteror mid-weight reds. Like pinot noir.In this issue we have a nice pinot focus, including our annual judging of the variety and a lead-instory from Master of Wine, Jane Skilton, who writes on the rise of Kiwi pinots. It is an interestingmix in that we have three very different styles around the world, all from the same variety.First we have the well-trodden Burgundian path, of so called Old World wine. Here we see lightcoloured, acid intense wines that give a linear background to the flavours across their rangeof Village wines, Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories. Dry and savoury characters are moreimportant than overt fruit. (The term iron fist in a velvet glove is a good descriptor.) Needlessto say the higher you go in Burgundy category definition the more ripeness of fruit is involved,where sunshine and temperature in the region is at a premium. Interestingly, makers should alsonot be ignored. A Premier Cru from one maker can be better than a Grand Cru from another.New Zealand has come on to the pinot scene relatively recently, less than 50 years ago. It can be said that these are truly New Worldwines. Jane Skilton will elaborate on this in her article but for me the interesting thing is the depth of vibrant, ripe, juicy flavours that theSouth Island can achieve. In somewhat of a freak of nature the very cool climate, southern region of Central Otago also enjoys some ofthe highest sunshine hours in the country, making it a great place to grow the variety. (Other regions that do well are Martinborough andMarlborough.) These are definitely more fruit forward than what you see in Burgundies.For Australia the truth lies somewhere in between. Here the pinots don’t quite have the austere backbone that you see in many Burgundies(or the faults) and neither do they get the full varietal fruit intensity of a southern Kiwi example. However, there are still great examples fromMornington Peninsula, Tasmania and the Adelaide Hills. These wines are fresh, vibrant, well made and show good varietal fruit character.In judging circles it is generally accepted that the finest Burgundies are the yardstick that others aim to emulate (The Holy Grail – everyonetalks about it but no one has seen it). It is also generally accepted that you are going to have to pay high prices to see the best. At themiddle and value ends examples from New Zealand and Australia offer much greater value and certainty. What is rarely mentioned byFrancophile wine writers is the great number of Burgundies with serious winemaking faults or cork issues. These apparently have becomepart of the fabric of the wine to these critics who have grown up knowing nothing else.In our Winestate blind judging we tasted wines from each of the three countries. We did judge a dozen from Burgundy but these wereat the lower price ranges and unfortunately proved our point as none were recommended. To be fair, no higher priced examples wereshown so we can’t comment at this level. The majority of wines were from Australia and New Zealand judged within price categories.The judges did not know what they were tasting so the results are a true reflection of their scores.It is interesting to note that the judges again commented that too many wines were presented as “dry reds” rather than varietal pinots. Thisis about the third or fourth year that this has been mentioned. It seems that some winemakers have an aversion to producing lighter colouredwines and add a bit of schoinraszumorecrsabtheernsewtetoeMtbsoaporoskttsetthaeryecoeouiltohruewrr. aIitnlikteheesdltothoweetchropemriwcmeeodnretlfdnrod!mwhoenreejusdimgpel:e“,afrdedsh2 per cent shiraz to a pinot and youwill have a shiraz”. For varietal fruit is a feature and at thepointy end where winemakers know what they are doing. In the middle price ranges there are still a lot of issues around the dry-red mantra.As usual there are lots of judgings in thJmoiisisnsitoihsnestAouuVseterraolfinraaonimWn 2in0eo15Iundrusetrxy cExepollret anntd Bpueyeersr winemakers and trade judges, and lots of excellent winesreviewed for you to chase up. I should meVnintiitoalny 2i0f15yo– Vuerrolnoac, Iatally,d2o2-2e5sMna’rtchh2a0v15e a wine that you are interested in go straight to the producer formore information. I am sure that they can Thhee wlpor.ld’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-readyCheers! companies and for buyers sourcing international wines. Your wine, our ports. Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyers sourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western and Eastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America.Peter Simic The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne is AustraliaEditor/Publisher the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to Australian wine industry professionals attending the show: Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 - Space and stand bookings at preferential rates - Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona Equipment and Logistics - Logistics 1300 135 801 - Visitor registration Import Customer Service 1300 132 813Major Sponsors and Supporters ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact between New Zealand the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for Outbound - 0508 222 444 the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and Inbound - 0508 333 666 appointment agendas. For more information contact: No matter what. Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, www.hamburgsud-line.com Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsCAMP AMONG THE VINES FOILED BY A ‘SHOCKER’WINERIES are always looking for new ways to attract cellar door STEPHEN Henschke and his winemaking team tried their bestcustomers and one camper van company has come up with a new but they just could not come up with a wine worthy of the Hill ofdeal that allows guests to enjoy exclusive gourmet experiences and Grace label from the 2011 vintage. The vintage was a shockerpark their motorhomes among the vines. Maui Motorhomes recently and with Hill of Grace made using fruit from a single vineyardlaunched its Winery Havens experience, with both big-name and they were left with no option but to make a very difficult decisionboutique wineries in South Australia and Victoria on board. Maui’s that will doubtless disappoint collectors. There simply was noWinery Havens camper experience allows guests to sample regional fallback position. But lovers of Hill of Grace are not left withoutwines while tasting local produce at premier wineries like Hahndorf an option following the limited release of a two-bottle museumHill in the Adelaide Hills, Lake Breeze in Langhorne Creek, Rymill box set with its own book that contains Hill of Grace bottlesCoonawarra, Caudo Vineyard in the Riverland and Seppeltsfield from two outstanding vintages - 2005 and 2006. The box setin the Barossa. During the Winery Havens experience, travellers will set back well-heeled buyers $1795 or they can buy limitedspend their days enjoying the region’s wines, intimate cellar door re-releases of the 2005 for $925 or the 2006 for $870.experiences, meeting winemakers and sampling the local gourmetcheeses and meats. At night, guests are invited to park among the STYLE REVIVALvines and whip up a feast in their very own roving kitchen beforeretiring for the evening in their motorhome bed. Caudo Vineyard, ROSÉ is the fastest-growing wine style in Australia, with anwhich is on the banks of the Murray River, offers a tranquil setting increase of 20 per cent in sales over the past 12 months.for relaxed evenings in the vines. “Winter in the Riverland is a truly Jacob’s Creek has recognised the boom and released two newunique and magical experience,” says Zac Caudo, owner of Caudo rosé styles for the Australian market. La Petit Rosé is madeVineyard. “The Murray offers beautiful misty mornings teeming with in the Provencal style from a blend of pinot noir, grenachelocal wildlife and amazing scenery, and one of the best places to and mataro and is dry and crisp, and designed for the retailexperience this is on the bank of the Murray at our cellar door.” In trade. Barosé is made mainly from Barossa Valley grenacheVictoria, wineries involved include Feathertop, Brown Brothers, and is described as “a more structured style” that will featureCofield, Dal Zotto and St Leonards. Payment of a nightly supplement on-premise. “We want to offer both our on-trade partners andincludes a gourmet hamper for two, a bottle of wine courtesy of customers a completely new take on rosé to appeal to evolvingthe host vineyard and access to the winery's vintners (availability palates,” says Jacobs’s Creek chief winemaker Ben Bryant.dependent). Visit www.Maui.com.au/winery-havens.aspx or phone1300 363 800.12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

briefs winemaking at Roseworthy College, graduating with honours in 1975, then worked at Bleasdale and Hazelmere in McLaren Vale where he helped pioneer the concept of blending sauvignon blanc with semillon and was crowned McLaren Vale Bushing King in 1982. He then moved to the Hunter Valley to join Brokenwood. He was an inaugural board member of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia, chaired the Australian Winemakers’ Forum and began his formal involvement with the Sydney Royal Wine Show in 1990. Riggs is the third person to be awarded Legend of the Vine status in NSW. Previous recipients were David Lowe from Lowe Wines in 2014 and Rob Hirst from Fine Wine Partners last year.RIGGS WINS LEGEND STATUS NEW PLAYER IN THE SPIRIT WORLDIAIN Riggs, the driving force behind Brokenwood Wines in RUM and bitters house Angostura has launched a new product inthe Hunter Valley and one of the industry’s most passionate Australia - Amaro di Angostura, an award-winning spirit importedadvocates, has been named the 2016 NSW Legend of the Vine, by island2island. It is the first time in the Trinidad company’s longby Wine Communicators of Australia. The award was presented history that is has created an entirely new category of spirits. Amaroat the Sydney Royal Wine Show, appropriately as Riggs has been di Angostura is derived from the same bespoke process used ininvolved with the show for more than a quarter of a century and was creating the company’s iconic aromatic bitters. The house yeastchairman of judges for six years. “Legend is a frequently overused strain, cultivated by Angostura since the 1930s in Trinidad, combinedword these days but Iain really ticks all the boxes,” said WCA with the addition of other spices and neutral alcohol from its distillery,national chair Angus Barnes. “He is a winemaker, a wine judge, a has resulted in a new taste. As with Angostura bitters, the Amarowine educator and a true believer in our industry and its people. di Angostura recipe is a secret. “Angostura aromatic bitters, whichWhen he talks, others listen.” The Legend of the Vine award was serves as the base for Amaro di Angostura, has a devoted followingcreated in 2014 to acknowledge individuals who have not only in Australia,” says Allan Shearer, CEO of island2island. With 35made an outstanding contribution to the Australian wine industry per cent alcohol by volume, Amaro di Angostura is a dark amberbut who have also helped chart its course and take its message colour, with aromas and flavours of cinnamon, dark chocolate andto the world. Riggs has been Brokenwood’s chief winemaker and bitters. Something this exotic is certainly to have cocktail barmenmanaging director for more than 30 years. Born in Burra, just a and mixologists creating new drink combinations, although the newfew kilometres from the vineyards of the Clare Valley, he studied release can also be enjoyed solo or over ice. It is available through Dan Murphy’s and selected independent bottle shops for around $55 a bottle. Visit www.angosturabitters.com.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 13 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E

briefsSTAR ROLE FOR CIDER Riggs and long-term tutor Ian McKenzie. The Len Evans Tutorial was launched in 2001 by the late Len Evans OBE AO, himselfWHEREVER you go in the world you’ll find wine bars, cocktail a recipient of the O’Shea Award in 1991. His principal aim wasbars and bars devoted to artisan beers. Less common are bars to increase the knowledge and tasting ability of future winewith a cider focus like The Cidery Bar and Kitchen in Sydney. show judges. Since then, 180 elite scholars have been throughThe Cidery is one of the latest projects of plastic surgeon turned the program, including winemakers, viticulturists, retailers,hotelier Jerry Schwartz, who loves the idea of matching a range restaurateurs, sommeliers and wine writers. Held in the Hunterof ciders with different foods. The Cidery, a comfortable, laid back Valley, the annual five-day tutorial features a series of blindvenue, is located at Schwartz’s Rydges World Square Hotel and tastings, master classes and judging sessions. The program isis a real family affair as it highlights his brother-in-law Richard designed to define quality by exposing the 12 carefully selectedFeyn’s Sydney Cider range, which is produced in-house at the scholars to the great wine styles of the world, guided by thehotel. The new bar, which also serves beer, wines and cocktails, industry’s greatest palates. As a not-for-profit organisation,is focused on matching cider with food. In summer, it has an the LET relies on the support of the industry to run. For furtheroutdoor deck perfect for people watching. “I have been married information visit www.lenevanstutorial.com.au.for five years and my wife’s brother has been trying to let looseon the Australian market with his cider,” Schwartz said. “You don’t FOOD FOR THOUGHTneed as much space to make cider as you do to make beer, sothe area underneath World Square seemed perfect for launching PAIRED: Champagne &this idea. The response so far has been fantastic.” Feyn likes to Sparkling Wines, a newsee Sydney Cider served in a wine glass. “We think of it as apple book on wine and foodchampagne,” he says. “More and more people are enjoying cider, matching, by husband-just as they are enjoying craft beers.” Rydges World Square food and-wife team Fran Flynnand beverage manager Evan James says the chance to sample and David Stevens-Castro,several different cider brands with foods had proved popular with received a Best in the Worldboth hotel guests and workers from nearby offices. The Cidery, Award at the GourmandRydges World Square Hotel, 389 Pitt St, Sydney; phone (02) 8268 World Cook Book Awards1888 or visit www.theciderybar.sydney. in Yantai, China. The Australian book, recentlyRECOGNISING A SIGNIFICANT CONTRIBUTION published by Paired Media, also won two BestTHE McWilliam’s Maurice O’Shea Award, first presented in 1990, in Australia Gourmandacknowledges the significant contribution of an individual or awards earlier this yearcompany to the Australian wine industry. It pays homage to in the categories of Food/the legendary Hunter Valley winemaker Maurice O’Shea, who Wine Matching and French Wine, which qualified the book tohand-crafted distinctive dry red and dry white table wines at represent Australia in both categories at the Gourmand Awardsthe Mount Pleasant winery between 1923 and 1956. In 2016 World Event. It is the first in a series that provides instructions onthe award was given to the Len Evans Tutorial program at a how to easily match food and wine. It features recipes along withgala dinner in Adelaide on July 25. In attendance to receive approachable expert advice in a full colour, hard cover book.the award on behalf of the LET Trustees were Sally Evans, Iain Stevens-Castro is a wine expert and sommelier, originally from Chile but now based on the Gold Coast, and Flynn is a photographer and graphic designer. The matches covered include foods with champagne, prosecco, cava, new world sparkling, moscato, sparkling reds and sparkling rosés, making it a book with global potential. “This win is a fantastic achievement, especially since this self-published book is our first,” said Flynn. The couple is working on two follow-ups: Paired: Whites & Rosés and Paired: Reds. The initial book release costs $37.99 and can be ordered direct from www.paired-media.com. It is also available from good bookstores nationwide and internationally on www.amazon.com.14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

briefsLAPPING UP LA CULTURE such an impact, and the first year in Australia was soft, but then the brand took off. The Australians shared our sense of humour,HEADING for Los Angeles? If you enjoy wine and cocktails then as did the Dutch and the Canadians, and we are now the No.1the hottest place in town is the uber-cool new rooftop bar at imported brand in Italy. We may be big but we behave like realMama Shelter, which has already been written up by the likes of vignerons and respect our fruit.” French wine is now reclaimingVogue magazine. On the sixth floor of the hip Mama Shelter Hotel its place in the Australian market, growing at 9.1 per cent in salesin Hollywood, the bar serves drinks and snacks seven nights a since March 2015 while the overall wine category experiencedweek from 5pm.There are nightly movies and superb views in all a relatively flat 1 per cent growth in sales over the same period.directions. Sometimes there are barbecues or a guest DJ playing Today, the Arrogant Frog wine label alone sells close to 6 milliontunes. Want to check out the famous Hollywood sign, or the high- bottles a year around the world.rises of downtown LA while enjoying a sangria or glass of rosé?You've come to the right place. Mama Shelter, 6500 Selma Ave, LosAngeles; phone +1 323 785 6666 or visit www.mamashelter.com.FROG FUELS FRENCH REVIVAL EXPANDING THE EMPIREJUST over a decade ago a wine revolution occurred in Australian CASELLLA Wines has continued its Australian expansion with thesupermarkets. A Frenchman with a sense of humour started purchase of Dunvar, one of the biggest vineyards in New Southselling wines with critter labels to Dan Murphy’s and BWS stores. Wales. The buy follows Casella’s purchases of Brands Laira inFeaturing a cartoon frog on the label, the wines labelled Arrogant Coonawarra, Peter Lehmann in the Barossa and Morris WinesFrog took off in a major way. They were soon followed by another at Rutherglen from Pernod Ricard Winemakers. Dunvar, nearlabel from the same producer - Vignobles Paul Mas. The wines hit Darlington Point, comprises 902ha planted in 2002 to shiraz, pinota nerve with Australian buyers, offering French style at a bargain grigio and chardonnay. “There was extensive industry interest fromprice point. Even today, Arrogant Frog wines retail for $9.99 and existing and new players, with interest in viticulture and wine assetsPaul Mas wines for $7.99. The man behind the brands, and several having turned the corner,” CB Real Estate’s Col Medway said.others that have followed, has helped transform the reputation ofsouthern France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region. Jean-ClaudeMas, a suave, one time motor racer and global entrepreneur, is theFrenchman who has cracked several wine markets other Frenchproducers deemed too hard. Mas, a fourth-generation vintner, paved a new path for Frenchwinemakers, taking on the new world wines that were dominatingoverseas markets by adopting a fresh and fun approach to bothbrand and winemaking. That meant screw caps, fun labels and asustainable approach in the vineyards, where yields were slashedand quality elevated. “When new world wines started to kick us outof the market I knew there needed to be a change and we were inthe right place to do it,” Mas said. “We never expected to make November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsHIGH FLYERS named as one of the world’s top five wine consultants, recently hosted a meet-and-greet at Orana restaurant in Adelaide,IT is one of the most important annual wine tastings in Australia – showcasing wines from Bulgheroni’s impressive portfolio inbut the results are never published. Over 1400 wines were tasted Argentina, Uruguay, France, Italy and the US. The Bulgheronirecently by an eminent panel whose decision can bring an instant brands include Bodega Argento, well known for its malbecs, andboost to the bottom line of small wineries across the country. The Chianti Classico producer Dievole. Antonini was not given antasting is the private annual Qantas sommeliers tasting to choose easy ride by the media who queried the choice of the Barossawines for use in first, business and economy classes, and for the in the age of global warming, but he proved both well informedQantas Club and other lounges. Some wineries may offer as little as a about the Australian wine scene and full of enthusiasm for hishalf pallet to Qantas (enough, maybe, for two or three weeks on one new project. The former Antinori chief winemaker has a focusroute), others may offer huge volumes. Only Australian table wines on pure, terroir-driven wines. Greenock Farm has 12ha of vinesare chosen, with champagne for business and first class cabins. planted to shiraz, grenache, mataro and semillon, and there are plans to plant a further 18ha with the same varieties, while “We’d love to also use some sparkling wines from Tasmania, restoration work has already begun on the 150-year-old stonebut they simply are not available in big enough quantities,” says barns and farm buildings on the site. Fruit grown on the siteRockpool Group’s Neil Perry, who has 16 sommeliers from his was once sold to Peter Lehmann Wines and the vines will berestaurants around the country on call for the panel. The sommeliers farmed biodynamically. General manager Amelia Nolan saysmeet at the Qantas Centre of Service Excellence in Sydney to the project will include a 180-tonne winery, a cellar door andchoose not only the wines to be served over the next 12 months, possibly some high-end accommodation. The first vintage,but also to provide tasting notes. “We look for wines that will present under a label name that is still going through the internationalwell under flying conditions,” says Seb Crowther, one of only two trademarking process, is expected in 2018. “The Barossa hasmaster sommeliers working in Australia. Qantas is the third-largest great terroir and has built a great reputation but what I tastepurchaser of wine in Australia, behind only Woolworths and Coles, now is not what we think the Barossa is capable of delivering,”spending over $15 million annually. The tasting is conducted just Antonini said. “We will focus on the origin of the grapes, thelike a wine show, with the judges tasting a number of small style unique place, not the variety. Varieties are generic, but placesbrackets and is part of an arrangement between Perry and Qantas like the Barossa are unique.” Antonini says the Greenock Farmthat will next year mark its 20th anniversary. “While we are happy vineyard has the potential to produce “spectacular” wines butto showcase Australian wineries both large and small, all the wines will wait and see what the vineyard produces in 2017 beforethat are chosen have to have a real degree of deliciousness,” says deciding on whether to make varietal wines or a blend. “WePerry. Visit www.qantas.com. looked at a lot of different vineyards and like this place a lot,” he said. “This is a new venture with old bones.”TERROIR TALKSTAKE one multi-millionaire businessman from Argentina. Addone globally-renowned wine consultant from Italy and a 40-haproperty in the Barossa Valley and you have the key ingredientsfor one of Australia’s most exciting vineyard projects. Oil magnateAlejandro Bulgheroni last year purchased the Greenock Farmvineyard in the northern Barossa and appointed Alberto Antoninias his winemaking consultant. Antonini, who was last year16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

briefsTEA WITH A TWIST PRICES MOVING HIGHERTHE Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel in Sydney has partnered with award- THERE is good news for Australia’s beleaguered wine growerswinning local distillery Archie Rose Distilling Co, the first working with industry analysis of the 2016 vintage revealing increaseddistillery in Sydney since 1853, to create a new high tea with a grape prices achieved for the harvest. The average price paidtwist - the Distiller’s High Tea. Renowned for its three-tiered sweet for wine grapes grew by 14 per cent to $526 a tonne, the highestand savoury delights served with an array of beautiful teas, the average price since 2009. Wine Grape Growers Australia executiveRadisson Blu Sydney decided to “shake up” this traditional high director Andrew Weeks regarded the jump in average prices astea model and start with the beverages as the heroes. From there, reason for “cautious optimism”. “It is vital that this positive trendthey have matched the distinct flavour notes of each spirit with the continues,” he said. An increase was also recorded for the totalgourmet food offerings. The Distillers High Tea includes three of harvest, estimated at 1.81 million tonnes, a 6 per cent jump on theArchie Rose’s spirits range – Original Vodka, Signature Dry Gin previous year. However, the survey did reveal a continuing declineand White Rye. The Original Vodka is accompanied by a sweet in the amount of warmer region fruit contributing to the nationalpaprika, spinach and feta roll, juniper-infused smoked salmon on grape crush. The Murray-Darling-Swan Hill region decreased itstoast and a citrus tart; the Signature Dry Gin is matched with slow- 2016 grape crush by 2 per cent, the Riverina by 4 per cent. Thecooked veal pie, cucumber, dill and cream cheese sandwich and Riverland did a little better registering a 2 per cent increase. Growtha strawberry tart; and the White Rye is matched with a chicken was recorded in cooler, more temperate wine regions: Langhornecurry puff, spiced cake and a Belgian double chocolate slice. Creek (57 per cent), Tasmania (27 per cent), Margaret River (9 perGuests also will be able to try Radisson Blu’s own gin, Out of the cent) and the King Valley (2 per cent).Blu, which has been blended at the Archie Rose distillery and willbe introduced into the Distiller’s High Tea and also served at thehotel’s Fax lobby bar. The gin was created in a “stirring” blendingsession at the distillery by Radisson Blu’s general manager PeterTudehope, director of sales Terry Oomens and head chef OswinRibeiro. “We are delighted to be able to offer our guests somethingtruly unique – a new blend of gin that we have created just forthem and the Distiller’s High Tea, showcasing spirits from Sydney’smost up-and-coming distillery,” said Tudehope. The new Distiller’sHigh Tea is available in the hotel’s Fax Bar until December 31 andcosts $69 per person. Radisson Blu Plaza Sydney is a stylishfive-star hotel housed within a stunning heritage-listed buildingand features 336 guest rooms, 28 suites, the signature BentleyRestaurant and Bar and Fax lobby bar. www.radissonblu.com/en/plazahotel-sydney and www.archierose.com.au. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsBEHIND THE QUALITY REVOLUTION dam for a night’s rest. “We would either see the birds or a rainbow,” said Viv Snowden, property principal with husbandTWO grapes that are now considered the cornerstone of the Phil. “It was extremely colourful.” The couple, both 67 andAustralian sparkling wine industry – chardonnay and pinot noir – were graduate geologists, migrated from South Africa to Australiabarely known to our winemakers just 40 years ago. The adoption of in 1986. For the next 20 years they consulted to the WA miningthe two grapes together with the move to cooler-climate growing sites industry, buying their run-down vineyard in 2007 as part of awas responsible for a major quality revolution, according to multi- historic 32ha property, to take up the challenge of a completelyaward winning sparkling winemaker Ed Carr. In his recent address new industry – never having pruned a vine before while onlyto the Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference (AWITC), he consuming a handful of fine wines. But not being golfers,pointed out that plantings of chardonnay in 1972 totalled just 12ha bowlers or bridge players, they decided on the wine challengeand pinot noir 16ha. Today, chardonnay has 26,000ha in the ground, on their Denmark property, claimed by a third-generation localwhile there is 4000ha of pinot noir. The search by winemakers to to be one of the top three in the area. It had been used for cattleemulate the climate of Champagne, the benchmark for premium grazing, and potato and apple production. “After the intensivesparkling wine, was another powerful factor in the Australian mining-world pressure we needed a more peaceful, relaxedsparkling wine quality revolution. “One would expect regions with project,” said Phil. Initially they were shown how to prunesimilar indices (HDD or heat summation and GST or growing season but quickly decided on local expertise, employing viticulturalaverage temperature) to Champagne to be able to produce fruit contractors and winemaker Coby Ladwig – also a passionatesuitable for the production of premium sparkling wine,” he said. local – to produce the wines. And it wasn’t long before most ofThey have come close. the shiraz and all the merlot were pulled out – not considered up to the standard required – and their own small crop According to Carr the most significant cool-climate regions boosted by 80 per cent of fruit needs purchased from Greatfor premium sparkling wine in Australia are the Adelaide Hills, Southern growers for the 18 wines now in the Singlefile range.Tumbarumba, Orange, Yarra Valley, King Valley, Alpine Valleys, Chardonnay and cabernet are the flagships, already notchingMacedon Ranges, Strathbogie Ranges and Tasmania. up an impressive range of medals and trophies for such a young label. As well, they have high hopes for their home-grown pinotUNDERSTANDING THE LAND which takes pride of place on Ladwig’s dining table. “While chardonnay is fun to make, pinot is always a challenge butCOULD the Australian Aboriginal culture hold a valuable key to rewarding when you get it right,” he said.helping Australian winemakers better understand the land? SouthAustralian winemaker Sue Bell believes so. The oldest geology WAIT IS OVERand soils on earth together with 40 thousand years of humaninhabitance give Australian winemakers a huge advantage in the THE long-awaited cellar door for Eldorado Road Wines, thewine world, she says, if only they care to use it. The Coonawarra- family winemaking project for Baileys of Glenrowan winemakerbased winemaker, who has Aboriginal heritage, talks of the Paul Dahlenburg and his family, has opened in Beechworth.Aboriginal concept of “connection to land”. “Connection to land is Dahlenburg, his partner Lauretta Schulz and children leaseda fundamental pillar of indigenous identity,” she says. “The strong an old block of 1890s shiraz on Eldorado Rd, and over manyspiritual connection to country obliges Aboriginal people to look years of dedicated vineyard work have brought it back to healthafter cultural sites. The health of the land and water is central to and active productivity, with some of the most concentrated andall cultural activities. The land is your mother and you must care complex reds – not to mention a lone chardonnay of note – beingfor it.” Speaking at the 16th Australian Wine Industry Technical produced. The Italian grape nero d’Avola, planted on the site,Conference, Bell called for more soil and climate research work has been a revelation and Dahlenburg has high expectationsof the kind being undertaken in the Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, for North East Victorian speciality red grape durif. The firstMcLaren Vale and the Limestone Coast. And she called for vintage of durif will be from the 2015 vintage. “Durif has beenwine producers to make wine a “holistic, culturally immersive, quite a journey,” he says, “as we wanted an expression of theeducational experience”. “Make the taste, the experience, the food best available planting material and thankfully Stanton andand the place reflect your country and you,” she told winemakers. Killeen allowed us access to collect wood (off grapevines) from“Develop a deeper, respectful, spiritual connection to country.” their best durif block which was exactly what we wanted.” The Eldorado Road cellar door is located in Ford St, Beechworth.OVER THE RAINBOW More details on www.eldoradoroad.com.au.A WEARY look into the early night sky after a long day’s pruningprovided the inspiration for a new WA label – Singlefile Wines.Silhouetted on a hilltop against the fading light was a row ofgeese making their way one behind the other to the vineyard18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

briefsBUILDING A NEW FUTURE of his ambassadorial role with Tourism Australia, we’ve seen huge international interest in Kakadu following the 30th anniversary ofTHE Mornington Peninsula is set to enhance its food and wine Crocodile Dundee, and of course, our current aquatic and coastaltourism with two major hotel building developments planned. The campaign not only promotes the spectacular Nitmiluk National ParkRACV, which already runs one of the larger resorts on the Peninsula but also provides an exciting platform for local tourism operators withat Cape Schanck, has received council permission to go ahead the Northern Territory Government’s Million Dollar Fish campaign.”with a $135 million redevelopment of the site. The new five-storey #NTaustraliadevelopment includes 120 hotel rooms, a 140-seat restaurant anda large conference centre. The Mornington Peninsula Shire Councilexpects the centre will create many new jobs, keeping young peopleon the Peninsula longer and inject $117 million into the regionaleconomy. At Willow Creek Winery in Merricks North, which waspurchased by Chinese real estate development company KunmingConstruction Company (KCC) in 2013, a high-end, 39-room hotel iscoming together. The $10 million project is expected to create 30local jobs. The boutique hotel and restaurant will launch in January.CELEBRATING PINOT GRAHAM NORTON RETURNS TO HIS ROOTSTHE biennial Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noir He’s trod grapes on the set of his famous show and blendedCelebration returns in February, with pinots featuring from Australia Marlborough sauvignon blanc into an award-winning wine in a Londonand around the world. The 2017 Celebration will showcase important apartment. This year, though, top talk show host Graham Norton andBurgundy producers Meo Camuzet and Comte de Vogue, together winemakers Invivo headed to Graham’s own back yard to work theirwith producers from leading Australian makers and an in-depth look winemaking magic: Bantry House in County Cork, Ireland.into the 2015 vintage for pinot on the Peninsula. Keynote speaker willbe English wine writer Matthew Jukes. Tickets and more information Invivo cofounder Tim Lightbourne and winemaker Rob Cameronis available from the Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association. travelled over 20,000 kilometres to Norton’s summer home – completewww.mpva.com.au. with their precious cargo of six distinctive Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc pressings. Then, over an afternoon blending session the trioTOP PERFORMERS IN TOP END created Graham’s 2016 Sauvignon Blanc and new for 2016 a Graham Norton SA Shiraz, due to consumer demand for a Graham Norton red.The top performers in Australia’s tourism industry are set to berecognised in the Top End, with The Qantas Australian Tourism Awards Norton was well pleased with the result, but surprised the Invivo(QATAs) touching down in Darwin for the first time next year. crew by inviting a lucky handful of Cork locals to pass judgement on the blend. Their verdict? “Very drinkable…I could drink a lot of that” The premier event will draw more than 800 travel industry sponsors, and “absolutely lovely”.partners and state/territory tourism award winners, and will be held atthe Darwin Convention Centre on February 24, 2017. Graham Norton’s Own Sauvignon Blanc has been a great success for the winemaker and production has increased by 50% since 2015 to Chief Minister and Tourism Minister Adam Giles says: “This is very meet expected demand. Last year, the wine sold over 500,000 bottlesexciting news for the Territory and members of our tourism industry in Ireland, the UK, Australia and New Zealand. The UK’s Independentwho now have a chance to shine on the national stage right here in newspaper named the vintage number three in the top 15 sauvignonour own backyard.” blancs in the UK. Marie Claire magazine declared it, “One of the most successful celebrity wine collaborations ever”. The awards will feature 25 categories, with the winners of each State/Territory Award competing for Gold, Silver and Bronze recognition at Speaking about his new 2016 Sauvignon Blanc; “It is easy drinking.the national level. It's got all the grassiness and zest you expect from a new world sauvignon blanc but I like to think it has a bit of an old world finish. - Oh, Chair of the Australian Tourism Awards, Daniel Gschwind, says: “This and it's affordable!” And Norton adds after blending his new Southis our industry’s marquee event of the year and attracts wide media Australian shiraz, “I’m thrilled!”.coverage so it is always an exciting time for the host city. We’re lookingforward to taking the event to the Northern Territory for the second time;and first time in Darwin, after Alice Springs hosted the Awards in 2004.” Tourism Australia Managing Director, John O’Sullivan, adds: “We’vejust had Chris Hemsworth and his family visit the Red Centre as part November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 19

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneNEW BOSS CROSSROADS HEADS IN A NEW DIRECTIONSIMON Towns, 43, has been appointed managing director of AFTER 26 years, Crossroads - originally Cross Roads - is no longerthe largest exporter of NZ wine, US-owned Constellation Brands a specialist in Hawke’s Bay wines. “A large part of Crossroads’NZ, which controls such popular labels as Nobilo, Selaks, Kim success has come from its boutique, hand-crafted winemakingCrawford, Drylands and Monkey Bay. Previously US-based and small parcel sourcing within Hawke’s Bay,” acknowledgesas senior vice-president of strategy and development for Marlborough-based Yealands Wine Group, which purchasedConstellation, Towns has led growth strategies for several food Crossroads in 2011. Yealands is controlled by a local electricityand beverage brands. He represented NZ in hockey from 1992 distributor, Marlborough Lines. From now onwards, all of Yealands’to 2005, winning silver at the Manchester Commonwealth Games winemaking, including Crossroads, will be centralised at Yealandsin 2002, and was honoured with an MNZM in 2007 for services Estate Winery in the Awatere Valley, Marlborough. The companyto hockey. Constellation is currently doubling the capacity of its also plans to establish “a strong grower-sourcing model” forDrylands winery in Marlborough to cater for the surging demand for Crossroads in Hawke’s Bay “and other key growing regionsNZ wine in the US. Constellation has 40 per cent of the total New throughout New Zealand”.Zealand wine category in the US. In Australia, where its brandshave been represented by a third party, Constellation has just 2 FEAT OF CLAYper cent of the market for NZ wine. That will change. “It comesdown to controlling your own distribution channels and your own THE amphora is back. Heron’s Flight vineyard at Matakana northsales force,”says Towns. of Auckland has released NZ’s first red wine to be fermented and matured in a clay pot, just like the ancient Greeks and RomansGIESEN BUYS ARA did. Stefano Guidi, appointed winemaker at Heron’s Flight in late 2014, previously worked at the acclaimed Petrolo wineryTHE Ara brand, based on a sweeping vineyard in the lower in the Chianti zone of Tuscany. When Kiwi soprano Anna LeeseWaihopai Valley of Marlborough, has been purchased by one gave a concert at Petrolo in 2011, the pair discovered a mutualof NZ’s largest family-owned producers, Giesen. Ara, formerly love of wine and music. After marrying in early 2014, Guidi andowned by the Todd family - one of NZ’s wealthiest - produced its Leese visited Heron’s Flight. “I liked their approach of sustainablefirst wines in 2005. Earlier this year, Todd Corporation sold Ara’s viticulture and the wines,” recalls Guidi. “Anna and I really loved600ha of vines and 900ha of bare land to Indevin, a huge contract Matakana which is very similar to Tuscany with its hills, vines andwinemaking company, controlled by Blenheim-based Joe Wallace. olive trees.” David Hoskins, founder of Heron’s Flight in 1988Giesen says its acquisition of the Ara brand “allows us to gain a with wife Mary Evans wasn’t looking for a winemaker at the timelarger footprint overnight in the UK”. but kept in touch with Guidi. A key bond was their shared love of sangiovese - Italy’s most widely planted red-wine variety and theSAUVIGNON RULES great grape of Chianti. Sangiovese is still a rarity in NZ but not at Heron’s Flight where it is the major variety.THE bumper 2016 harvest - 34 per cent bigger than 2015 -underlines the extent to which the NZ wine industry still depends The amphora, made near Florence, came to NZ in a containeron a single variety. Sauvignon blanc accounted for over 72 per packed with Guidi’s household goods. The ancient vessel iscent of the vintage - dwarfing pinot noir (8.5 per cent), chardonnay coming back into fashion because it can protect wine from(6.9 per cent) and pinot gris (5.9 per cent). Marlborough enjoys oxidation which causes loss of freshness, minimising the need toa strong international profile for sauvignon blanc but the classic add sulphur-dioxide as a preservative. Amphorae also allow winesFrench grape was also the biggest yielder this year in several to breathe - like barrels - but without any pick-up of oak flavours.other regions normally associated with other varieties - Hawke’s Strikingly packaged, Heron’s Flight Amphora 2015 ($NZ120,Bay (where the sauvignon blanc crop was well ahead of merlot $A116) is dark and powerful, with ripe blackcurrant/plum flavours,and chardonnay), Wairarapa (where sauvignon blanc outstripped buried tannins, and lovely harmony and richness.pinot noir), Nelson (where sauvignon blanc was over half the totalharvest) and Canterbury (where the tonnage of sauvignon blancwas almost double that of riesling or pinot noir).20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016



c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERAGE DISCRIMINATION NO JOKEDO New Zealand white wines need cellaring? rare to find NZ winemakers who really enjoy Most Marlborough producers believe theirNot all, it seems. Moana Park last year old wines or attend tastings of them.” wines drink best in their first 18 months toreleased a Hawke’s Bay sauvignon blanc on two years, while still fresh, aromatic andApril 1 that had been picked in early March. Once a particular vintage of a top wine zesty. They can still mature solidly for severalWhen sent a press release about the launch, is sold out, even if it is still resting in cellars years, although not necessarily improving.some wine writers suspected an April Fool’s around the country and overseas, it will rarely In herbaceous, green-edged styles, theDay prank. be written about again. Hence the crucial emergence after a couple of years of importance of “vertical” tastings, which by asparagus and “canned peas” notes is seen Marlborough winemakers often stated examining the past enable us to predict the as undesirable.years ago that the region’s sauvignon blanc future with a fair degree of accuracy.should be “picked, pressed and pissed by Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc mellowsChristmas”. Improvements in grape quality People need to be able with time, developing a food-friendly, toasty,and winemaking techniques, coupled with bottle-aged complexity. Grown in Hawke’sthe widespread adoption of screw caps, to put wine into their Bay and fully barrel-fermented, Te Matahave changed that. But do any of the Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc typically drinkscountry’s white wine styles reward long-term cellars with confidence best at two to four years old, when the woodmaturation? is integrated and the ripe, passionfruit/lime and know that when they characters are still fresh and vibrant; top NZ is still, overwhelmingly, white-wine vintages can mature well for five to six years.country. In the 2016 vintage, white-wine pull them out they will bevarieties accounted for 88 per cent of Vertical tastings of NZ chardonnay showthe crop. Sauvignon blanc (72 per cent) a damn sight better than that the best South Island wines maturedominated the harvest, with chardonnay (7 at least as well as those from Hawke’sper cent), pinot gris (6 per cent) and riesling when they put them in. Bay, widely viewed as the top region for(1 per cent), the only other whites to reach chardonnay. Another revelation is that the1 per cent. In a vertical tasting, several - perhaps all wines from cooler vintages often mature - vintages of a wine are tasted side by side. better than those from warmer seasons. To gain international recognition, an For a winemaker, looking at his or her life’s Crisp, firmly structured chardonnays mayindustry has to be capable of making wines work strung out along the table, exposed be less seductive in their youth than fleshy,that improve with age. “That’s the ultimate to critical dissection, a vertical tasting can soft models, but they often perform betterquality factor,” stresses John Buck, co- be a nerve-wracking experience. But for over the long haul.founder of Te Mata Estate, in Hawke’s Bay, wine lovers, a vertical tasting offers anwhose Elston Chardonnay generally needs unparalleled opportunity to get to grips with As a rule of thumb, most of NZ’s topa minimum of three years to break into full a wine - its style, quality and longevity. chardonnays are at their peak (or on theirstride and then matures gracefully for several high plateau) at between three and fivemore years. “People need to be able to put Sometimes vertical tastings bring big years old. The country’s finest pinot griswine into their cellars with confidence and surprises. Some wines simply don’t mature are also at their best at three to five yearsknow that when they pull them out they will as well as expected. These may include old, while the top rieslings have a provenbe a damn sight better than when they put wines that, when young, performed well in ability to flourish, gaining in richness,them in,” he says. competitions, yet are clearly past their best complexity and harmony, for five to seven at only three or four years old. Conversely, years; often longer. However, too much emphasis is placed on wines that do blossom with age may not haveyoung wine in NZ, according to Geoff Kelly, a shone in their infancy because they were Since the 2001 vintage, most NZ wineriesWellington-based wine commentator, partly specifically crafted for cellaring. have switched from cork to screw capbecause many wine judges are winemakers. closures which is slowing their wines’“Generalising, winemakers speak most Sauvignon blanc is not usually viewed as development in the bottle. But cellarhighly of fresh and fruity smells and flavours a variety that needs much time to develop. conditions still vary. As Andre Simon, thein wine,” he says. “How else can they sell famous wine author, observed: “There aretheir young wines? Consequently, it is quite no great wines; only great bottles”. 22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 23

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWCHINESE JUST THE NEXT WAVE OF INVESTORSBORDEAUX is unarguably the world’s China was number one for volume and variously welcomed as an influx of renewalmost prestigious wine region. As such, a value, having nearly doubled its imports by and change.steady force of change in the 21st century both metrics. Then in 2012 China was stillhas been that of Chinese investment in the the biggest market by volume but dropped Despite the criticism, such foreignwine industry, notably, but not only, in this to number two by value as the UK regained investment is far from a new thing forregion. The last half a decade have seen Bordeaux. Bordeaux has a long history,a particular spike of purchases. Is this a Foreigners have invested hundreds of years, of focusing oncritical mass or just a drop in the ocean? international sales. Foreigners have in Bordeaux vineyards invested in Bordeaux vineyards before - the In 2009 there were only a couple of northern Europeans, notably Dutch, BritishBordeaux properties owned by Chinese before - the northern and Irish investors were early on the sceneinvestors. In 2012 Chateau Bellefont- in the late 1700s and 1800s. And despiteBelcier, a Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe, Europeans, notably being long gone, they have left their markbecame the first classed growth to be on the vinous landscape - not all thosebought. This is a rarity though. It is mainly Dutch, British and Irish famous chateaux names are French.small and medium-sized properties thathave been bought, on both right and investors were early on At that time they often arrived asleft banks, and they’ve been less well merchants and shippers of wine backrenowned properties. Of these, some of the scene in the late to the homeland. Buying property onlythe better-known names include Le Bon later. Irishman Thomas Barton arrived inPasteur (Pomerol), Loudenne (Medoc), 1700s and 1800s. Bordeaux in the early 1700s to ship wine.Listran (Medoc). Other investment has His descendent Hugh Barton later boughtlargely been in less prestigious Bordeaux the top slot. It was in 2013 that the Chinese a property in Ireland in the 1830s to retainappellations such as Fronsac, Cotes de government banned gifting as part of an his roots. This was after he had boughtBourg, Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux, anti-corruption drive, which saw exports Chateau Langoa (-Barton) in 1821 andLalande de Pomerol as well as the generic that year drop around 15 to 20 per cent but Leoville (-Barton) in 1826, both in St Julien.Bordeaux appellation. this has proved to be no more than a blip, as demand for Bordeaux wines picked up Another Irish Thomas – this time Lynch While this flurry of investment has again, and quickly. Despite the banning of – came to own Chateau Lynch-Bages inoccurred in the last five to six years at a gifting, the country’s prime position as top 1749 after his French wife’s brother died.rate that has given the impression of a destination market is undimmed. The 2015 There is evidence of further Irish influencerapid Chinese takeover of the Bordeaux export data show China is back to number at Chateau Phelan-Segur, a St Estephewine region, the reality is that the Chinese one market for both volume and value. property put together at the beginningnow own only a small handful, just more Last year $A406m worth of Bordeaux wine of the 1800s by Bernard Phelan, whosethan 100, of the nearly 7000 properties in went to China, some 40-odd per cent of all heritage was Irish. And Chateau KirwanBordeaux. Typically much of the production French wine imports to the country. (Margaux) takes its name from an Irishman.is exported back to China to satisfydemand there. Given such growth it makes sense to invest Scotsman (or possibly Englishman, directly at the point of production, though reputable sources are divided on this one) And demand has undeniably been huge. typically in Bordeaux such investment is John Lewis Brown was a serial investor inIn 2002, China was not even among the regularly viewed as something of a double- the 1800s. Records show he had boughttop 10 export destinations. By 2010 China edged sword, being variously criticised Chateau Brown in Pessac-Leognan in thehad become the number two destination as something untoward for the region and latter part of the 1700s. He followed upfor Bordeaux wines by volume (after this purchase with that of Chateau Boyd-Germany). It was third by value after Hong Cantenac, Margaux, in 1806 (and theKong and the UK. Just a year later, 2011, previous owner Boyd had Irish ancestry) and Chateau Cantenac Brown, also in Margaux.24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

Margaux was a popular appellation Yorke Peninsula’sfor the Brits. Chateau Palmer takes its award winningname from Englishman Charles Palmer vineyardwho bought the property in 1814. Hechanged its name from Chateau de Gasq,trebled the vineyard area and becamebankrupt within 30 years. It’s now ownedby a consortium of which the negociantsSichel has the major share. And in Pessac-Leognan, the Smith bit of Chateau SmithHaut-Lafitte derives from ScotsmanGeorge Smith, who owned the propertyin the early 1700s. Since 1991 it’s beendoing famously well under the aegis ofFrench Olympic ski team members Danieland Florence Cathiard. During the 1800s we see no such Britishor Irish investment on the right bank,despite some equally ancient estatesin Saint Emilion. Perhaps Libourne wassimply too far from the international portof Bordeaux at that time. And Pomerol’sascendancy is an altogether much morerecent phenomenon, really since WWII.Indeed, it is fewer than 100 years sincewhite grapes were banned from beinggrown in Pomerol. Between this first wave of foreigninvestment and the current wave ofChinese investment, the 20th centurysaw a smattering of other nationalitiesget involved, though perhaps nothing asfocusing to the mind as the Chinese, whonow own possibly around 1 per cent ofthe Bordeaux vineyard. It doesn’t seem solarge when it is weighed with that statistic.And the Bordeaux vineyard is a sizeablething, around 111,000ha. In Bordeaux, time will tell if, like investorsin previous centuries, Chinese ownerschange château names or append theirown to existing names. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 25

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY AGEING GRACEFULLYI HAD the privilege of taking overseas the grapes as well as the ageing process. hardly fermented before spirit is added.guests around Rutherglen recently and The key difference between the two wines So it’s a challenge.when they saw the aged barrels andthe dusty old wineries their concept of is the grape variety, as the winemaking is It’s more about balancing the richnessAustralia only being a hi-tech, mass practically identical. Muscat is made from and getting the flavour compounds outproduced, tank farm-driven industry was muscat blanc, a petit rouge or simply of the grapes. Drumm explains: “Toshattered. When they tasted the wines of brown muscat, while topaque is made achieve our signature style we use a verythe region they were lost for words as they from the muscadelle grape. The hot, dry extractive winemaking process. We useare beyond comparison to any other wine climatic conditions in North East Victoria a pre-fermentation ‘cold soak’ processin the world. I am, of course, talking about allow the grapes to ripen and go raisined in a rotary fermenter to ensure maximumthe fortified wines of North East Victoria on the vine before picking. flavour extraction, while also giving usand in particular the muscat and topaque the phenolic profile. A rotary fermenterwines of Rutherglen. Isabella has an is ideal for this as we can fully macerate the fruit while also keeping it as cold as How are these wines made? We don’t incredible average age possible. We add enzymes and SO2 toneed European comparisons, they are the must then macerate at 0-10C for aboutuniquely Australian, but I do like this of 50 years and some a week. We then allow the temperatureexplanation. Think of it this way: it’s a to rise and fermentation to commence.madeira, port and sherry rolled into one. parts are 70 years old. We do not press until at least 1 degreeThey have the sweetness of port and Baume of fermentation has occurred, asfermented in a similar manner, but far Stanton and Killeen make both wines the fermentation process also assists withsweeter. They have similarities to madeira and they have what is described as a flavour extraction.”where the wines are subjected to heat in high extraction style. Winemaker Andrewsome incredibly hot cellars over decades, Drumm explains: “fortified wines are all Some companies such as Baileys ofand they are matured in an Australian about balance - they obviously have Glenrowan don’t ferment at all and fortifyversion of a sherry solera system using plenty of grape sugar and fruit flavour the juice after a period of cold soak. Whileancient barrels. We add the term “liqueur” but this must be balanced by the ‘drying’ at Campbells they have a relatively shortto their title to indicate they have been effects of alcohol, acidity and (in our case) maceration of between 36 and 48 hoursfortified with grape spirit and that is where phenolics”. before it is pressed off and fortified. Allwe can start. Fortified styles have always these subtle differences produce variousbeen made in Rutherglen since the early Phenolic compounds are found in house styles.gold rush days and the hot, dry conditions and around the skins of the grapesuited the production of rich, sweet, and and the seeds. The most important The wines are then placed into oldwhat was regarded in those days as phenolic compounds in winemaking barrels of various sizes and stored“ladies” wines. are anthocyanins which contribute the for many years. Heat, oxidation and colour and tannins that give us that dry, evaporation concentrates the wines. They These incredibly complex wines are astringent mouth feel in red wines. But are blended in a Solera system in cellarsofficially described as a Vins Doux remember we are talking about white that can reach 50C in summer, so it is notNaturels. VDNs are fortified wines that grapes here and colour and tannin is not surprising that a balance of younger winehave high strength grape spirit added to something we normally talk about in white is mixed in to add some fresh fruit flavours,the partially fermented must to make a wines. Phenolics are usually extracted depending on the style. On average, thestrong (18 per cent alcohol) sweet wine. during fermentation but these wines are cask loses about 3-5 per cent of wineThey get their aromas and flavours from per year through evaporation and it’s during this time the wines develop what’s26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

called a rancio character. Rancio is bestdescribed as a nutty, walnut and toffeearoma or flavour.In Rutherglen, six producers (Stantonand Killeen, Morris, All Saints, Campbells,Pfeiffer wines and Rutherglen Estates)participate in a classification systemwhich has four levels. Rutherglen Muscatis the youngest style and shows somefresh fruit but is still intensely sweet.Classic Muscat has more cask ageflavours and the beginnings of a ranciocharacter, while Grand Muscat is richerand more concentrated with clearrancio flavours. At the top of the treeis Rare Muscat which has prolongedcask ageing and is extremely lusciousand concentrated with clear rancioflavours. The same four-tier classificationsystem applies to topaque as well. Theclassification is based on style and notsimply age. But at Stanton and Killeentheir Classic Topaque is drawn from anaverage of 12-year-old stock. The Grandis 15 to 20 years old and the Rare is over Thanks to our GH soil we finally have an authentic Italian variety from Campania in the Barossa!20 years old, to give you an idea. Produced by Winemaker Charlie Scalzi from Campania Italy! As some non red drinkersGenerally muscat is around 50g/litre & clients have said \"now I can drink red!\" Low alcohol and full of fruit flavour.higher in residual sugar than topaque.Muscat displays pure liquid raisincharacter when young moving throughfruit cake, coffee, caramel and eventuallytreacle with age. I’ve grown to appreciatetopaque more. It’s a little more savoury,with classic cold earl grey tea, fishoil, soya, malt and sweet balsamicnotes. Campbells’ Topaque Rare, calledIsabella, has an incredible average ageof 50 years and some parts are 70 years WE DO LUNCH BY PRIOR BOOKING & MAXIMUM 10 PEOPLEold. This is clearly a labour of love,holding wine this long must drive theaccountants insane. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 27

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING RESTORING SWISS GLORYZURICH isn’t normally associated Zurich is probably the only city in the tongue-twisting veau a la zurichoise. On itswith dropouts, starving artists and world where you can take a tuk-tuk and rest home turf, one of the best places to enjoyrevolutionaries. But 100 years ago Tristan assured that your safety is paramount. I’m this classic dish is the Zeughauskeller,Tzara, Hugo Ball and Francis Picabia not talking about the auto equivalent of a a 15th century armoury-turned-beer hallfounded the Dada art movement in the tin can on three wheels. The Swiss version that packs them in for its hearty food andcity now synonymous with bank accounts is the world’s first fondue tuk-tuk. A very free-flowing draught brews.identified by numbers rather than names. high fun factor is guaranteed is the claimThey also opened the Cabaret Voltaire and it’s on the money. A free bottle of white The recently opened Marktgasse Hotel,club. Unfortunately, the building was left wine and a Gruyere cheese fondue are a luxury boutique property, also nestlesto decay after a brief heyday as the funky included in the 90-minute city tour which is behind a 15th century facade. Swisshangout of its time. Finally, developers limited to four people because of the size specialities such as emince de veaucame calling in the early Noughties, of the vehicle. (patties in a cream sauce) - far morelooking to turn the historic premises into delicately presented - are the speciality ofluxury apartments. To prove that Zurich’s The views are textbook the hotel’s sleek Baltho Kuche and Bar. Butcitizens aren’t always ruled by their heads, to really prove that Zurich is not all abouta protest group took up residence to panoramic and there’s finance and hi-tech, the four branchesprevent the development. They succeeded of the St Jakob bakery employ staff withand the city fathers re-opened the Cabaret an outstanding lineup of disabilities to make and serve their award-Voltaire as a post-modern cultural space. winning bread, pastries and truffles.Better yet, entrance is free. craft beers and wines by One of my friends has a bucket list that You will have to pay for the drinks in the the glass. centres on the world’s highest bars. Innew Cafebar duDa, though. During the Zurich, the contender is Clouds Bar onday it’s a relaxing space amid Zurich’s If a freshly brewed local craft beer is more top of the 36-storey Prime Tower, the city’sAltstadt but at night it’s time to work to your taste, the Zurich Food Tour takes tallest building. The views are textbookyour way through a curated selection of you to Zurich-West, a former industrial panoramic and there’s an outstandingabsinthes - the once-notorious drink that district-gone-upmarket which triggered lineup of craft beers and wines by theinured artists to their poverty. A gin-based the city’s much-vaunted gastronomic glass. Coffee is just as revered in ZurichDada Sour, using a house-made thyme revolution. The tour operators tactfully warn as it is in Vienna and the place to sinksyrup infusion, has also become a star off teetotallers, vegetarians and people back and imagine you are James Joyce onattraction. Or why not sip a Manifestini - with allergies, as you thread through some holiday is the Conditorei Schober, a plushthe Cabaret Voltaire’s twist on a classic of Zurich’s top bars and trendy restaurants Belle Epoque cafe that offers a laundryBellini featuring organic prosecco. grazing on seafood, fish, meat, Swiss list of coffee variations and melt-in-the- wines and, of course, the local suds. mouth pastries. Mentioning the name of The on-site grill serves up Brutzel brote - the famous Irish author is no throwawaytwo thick slabs of bread from John Baker, For over 50 years the Chesa restaurant in line. Joyce, his wife Nora Barnacle, and thea bio-dynamic baker which claims its the Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong has been Nobel Prize-winning author Elias Canettiworkers put on some Marvin Gaye, light pulling in lovers of Swiss food, particularly are buried in Zurich’s Fluntern Cemetery.scented candles and allow the biocertified geschnetzeltes - succulent strips of vealyeast to reproduce in privacy. It works. with white wine, cream and mushroom Switzerland boasts 117 Michelin-starredThe bread is fantastic, especially topped sauce. It’s listed on the menu as the less restaurants. Six are in Zurich - Mesa,with the Cabaret Voltaire’s extensive Pavillon, Rigiblick, Sein, Maison Manesselineup of fillings. and EquiTable. The last two are the most recent inductees. Maison Manesse is the28 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

brainchild of chefs Fabien Spiguel andMiguel Ledesma and experimentationguides the menu. We’re talking eggcooked at 62.7 degrees and topped withpine nuts and broccolini on a purée ofvegetable cooked in pear wine. FabianFuchs reels them in at the two-starEquiTable where organic fine dining iselevated to fantasy level. The old town is a homage to Zurich’scommercial heritage, dating back to the14th century when the first freely electedmayor, Rudolf Brun, established the guildlaws. A political move that shifted theeconomic dominance of the church to thepowerful merchant community. The city ispeppered with historic zunfthauser (guildhalls) that constitute a picturesque walkingtour. The carpenters, builders, wainwrights,food and spice merchants showcased theirprofits on Limmatquai. The streets close tothe Rathaus (town hall) was the fiefdom ofthe silver and goldsmiths and tailors. Theweavers, saddle makers, painters andwinemakers preferred the other side of theriver on Munsterhof. Buy a bottle of wine from one ofthe world’s most unique wine shops- the Albert Reichmuth Wine Store onFeldstrasse - built from 1500 wine cratesused to transport mainly French wines.Over 570 wines await your perusal, soyou can toast the wealth of Zurich’s winemerchants and winemakers who lavishedtheir profits on two of the city’s mostsplendid guild houses. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 29

winehistory Application to participate in Vinitaly 2017 Tasting Express & Display ProgramName of Winery / Company WORDS VALMAI HANKELWine brand to be promoted ANDRE SIMON IN WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALANDContact PersonFRENCHMAN Andre Simon’s two-weeks- and brandy”. But another article talks of first and last time in my life sides of beeflong visCitotontNaecwt EZmeaalailnd was coming to his “emphasis on low-fat cuisine which and carcases of lamb not by the hundredsan end. On Sunday evening, February has made him a long-standing favourite but by the thousands, slowly moving on16, 1964, he and his two main NZ friends, among health-conscious cooks”. His endless chains along long distancesFrank TMhoorpbyilaendPhAolenxeCorban, enjoyed a career was considerably advanced by packed with men armed with murderousmemorable meal at Wellington’s The Lodge. the then unknown entertainment promoter great knives, each one of them taking hisThis luxury hotel housed arguably NZ’s Harry M Miller. Kerr still looks remarkably cut and throwing it on a wooden table to histUonpforretustDnaaoutreaylyno,tuaoghfaatihnveewdeaaaEyr,UeTnohoert UgMiKveeramngaaeindny.t? young on his website.) confederates, all of them equally expert at Next day, Monday, February 17, Kerr knife play”. But he was impressed by thedetails of what they ate and drank, only that and his wife drove Simon to Masterton, fact that the 500 to 600 men were paid byit was “an excellent dinner” consumed in 65km north of Wellington, where they results, not by time “which is why the teamSimon’sP“ascpkaacgioeusinscitltuindgersooHmA”L. FNePxatgdeayto beweprleaceendteirntaainlel dissauteas porfivWatienelusntcahtebMy agawzoirnkeis(JsAoNeUffiAciRenYt”2.017)Simon was collected by Wellington Wine local wine and food aficionados. On the On arriving in Masterton they visited notand Food Society president Graham Kerr way they stopped to visit a milk factory. a winery but a factory which producedand hisDwoifyeo. u(BnoernedinaLssoinsdtaonncien w19it3h4,artwork / graphic design? “shakes”. Shakes are powders which areKerr, chef and TV personality, had come I saw for the first and dropped in milk or water to give a taste of orange, lemon or anything else appropriateto NZ in 1958 after some time as a traineechaotteerlinmgWaandiallvgiyesoer ruatnoodtrhweyoaRsuoryaaaplgpNeoeinnwtteZbdeeaclaahtnietdef ndinlgaVsitnittaimly 2e01in7?my life sides and then shaken! That evening was a landmark occasion, although probablyAir Force. This gave him the opportunity to of beef and carcases no one appreciated its significance at themake an omelette on television, a simple of lamb not by the time. Simon dined with Kerr in his house. It was the first dinner to be eaten in Kerr’sand appNaaremntely insignificant act which wasso popular that it led to his first TV series, hundreds but by the new food studio which Simon described asEggs with Flight Lieutenant Kerr. This was “a very remarkable room with all the latestctoocnhteanntSgioegfnnToaVtt.uonHreliys Kerr’s life but also the thousands, slowly moving cooking utensils, gadgets and gimmicks career in TV began at one end”. The menu was small butseriously in 1959 when he started hosting on endless chains along good, and would surely have pleased theEntertaining with Kerr while, strangely, Frenchman. The five people present hoedfitwnhaeemeapiorgrinuohgsgtfDWardaaaaxahmtnyme+edsw6ni.lai1wLtcsaaeo8rstylmeol8-rukp3pKnno5lieeopf7ortwurrel9mnawd2r.ai1trnhsTe2ahttAtoeuoiutrrbbssneeootcrlmtodaooklmaoiWaouiel,ft isnaelsetsal@towewniMtgihnaegdmsatizsaientteena.,cn8oac1mreKm.asinuegpdWaicwllkiaitemhdRd, into a pate de foie gras from Strasbourg UnaalensdycAhaeUceSosTledRsAsaaLnlImAdo5fnr0uf6irto.1mTohrKisorreeap,aasst well was washed down with a Simon favourite - 1955NZ, the UK and US as probably the first murderous great knives. Perrier-Jouet.of the TV chefs. His program was the On Tuesday, February 18, his last fullforerunner of the dozens of cookery shows day in NZ, Simon accepted the invitationwhich*MmaoynboepsoulbisjeectotuorATUVD/sEUcrReeexnchsatnogdearayt.e varSiaitmioonn(uwntailsacicmoupnrtepsasidedin fbuyll).the expertise to Parliament House from deputy PMProba*b*lDyihscislamimoesr:t Winfilnueesntattiael,PTubhleishGinaglloPptyinLgtd ABNof56th0e88w2o2r6k4e1r1s daoneds naoltsaoccbepyt athnye li“albailtietystto anaynpderscoonmormpeerrcsoensmclianiimstinegr tJhaeyckhaMveabresehnall.Gourmmeistl,edraonr doencleyivferodmby1a9ny69matoter1ia9l7p1ubbliusht ed hsecreieinn.tWifiicnaelsltyatdeePvuibsleisdhinmg aPctyhLintdews iltlhmaatkteaekveery eNffoort, bsuutrlpikreiswiinthgallyl,traMdae rsshhowasllanwdaenvetentds, towas wdoaetcs hnoetdgubayranthteoeussaalensdosr ninewitdsistsrhibourttion aorruant goefmtheentsmwilikll arellsuthltaftroismbpeasrtticiinpaittioton minaVkineitaly k20n1o7w. Vwinhitaaltytihs erugn rbeyaEtnmteaAnuttohnooumgohpteor flehislife. KFeierrre’sdirVeecriopneas. vwiaeleredeal Llsaovorpou8b-li3s7h1e3d5 Verocnrae-aTmel.a0n4d5 8b2u9t8te1r11in- qFauxa0n4t5iti8e2s9b82e8y8o-nPd.IVthAeIT 002c3o3u7n50tr2y3’s1 wines and of the likely future ofin magazines and on radio. Confusingly, dreams of the greatest gourmands”. Later viticulture there. In the light of the growthone article about Kerr describes his style they stopped at Borthwick’s meat packing of the NZ wine industry over the next halfof cooking as “decadent,” including as it factory, “the largest of its kind in the world”. century it would be interesting to knowdid “recipes saturated with butter, cream Simon found it overwhelming: “I saw for the whatFSroinmt coonvesr pahidot.o cre dit: Fo to Ennevi-Veronafier30 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

The Best of Australia at Vinitaly 2017 Verona, Italy 9-12 April 201751° Edizione Winestate magazine will in 2017 again host ten Australian wineries at the Vinitaly Wine Exhibition. The World’s biggest International Wine Exhibition Bookings or enquiries contact: Peter Jackson 08 8357 9277 or [email protected]

those with long memories will appreciate the similarity to his father’s days at tollana and the remarkable reds he fashioned.32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

FIantHhis er’sFootsteps PAT TOCACIU MIGHT HAVE LAUNCHED PATRICK OF COONAWARRA ON TO THE WINE MARKET BUT NOW IT IS UP TO HIS SON TO TAKE THE BRAND FORWARD.JENI PORTPAT TOCACIU was the kind of man who cabernet sauvignon will spend just overcould embark upon a train journey, strike two years in oak and four years in bottleup a conversation with those around him before release.and end up with an order for his wine bythe time the train pulled into his destination. “Our Home Block is a three-year-old cabernet at release as well, so that style “Or a distribution agreement signed or a has certainly been continued. I call itnew contact,” laughs Pat’s son, Luke. the more traditional cabernet style, not chasing that real ripe fruit flavour that “He had a larger-than-life personality,” seems to be more common these days.he says of his late father. I’m definitely I want to go a little bit more savoury inmore quieter.” style, giving it that little bit extra age it deserves to show that side of things.” There are many ways in which the sonis different to the father. There are strong Those with long memories willsimilarities, too. appreciate the similarity to his father’s days at Tollana and the remarkable reds Pat Tocaciu had served a lifetime in he fashioned, in particular, the highlywine, notably with Penfolds and Tollana esteemed and awarded Bin TR333in the Barossa Valley, and at Hollick in shiraz cabernet.Coonawarra, when he struck out on hisown with Patrick T. - later renamed Patrick Luke also pursues an aged riesling,of Coonawarra (POC) - in 2004. a reminder of a time when riesling was celebrated for the complexity that Luke, joined him in 2010 after a long came with time in the bottle. It is slowlyapprenticeship making wine in the Barossa gaining attention, something Luke says isand Clare valleys and in California. heartening to see, especially its growing appeal with a younger wine drinking Luke got the POC philosophy right away. generation.“Certainly one of our hallmarks is deliveringwines that are a little bit older, a delayedrelease,” he says. “Our Grande Reserve November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 33

Pat Tocaciu succumbed to cancer in 2012, choosing to make his own style employingleaving his son with 81ha of vineyards in traditional winemaking rules.Coonawarra and neighbouring Wrattonbully,as well as a winery to oversee. Today he “I use different types of apples, fermentproduces 10,000 cases of wine and has with wine yeast, a champagne yeast andgrown the winemaking portfolio to include add acid,” he says. “I looked at it froma pinot noir from nearby Mount Gambier, a winemaking perspective rather than athe birthplace of his father and Australia’s cider maker’s perspective, which tries toyoungest, newest wine growing region. get more complexity by using different fermentation techniques.” His time in Sonoma, California, he says,built a lasting appreciation for pinot noir. What started out as a small batchWhen he returned to the family winery it was experiment is now a popular 4000-casehis first solo winemaking project but it soon brand sold nationally.became clear that a Coonawarra-sourcedpinot noir wasn’t going to happen. The current release Applelation Cider is a blend of three apple varieties from Western “I don’t think it’s suited to the grape,” Victoria and Limestone Coast, fermentedhe says. Mount Gambier, however, is a at low temperatures, just like a fine whitedifferent matter. “It’s a cooler region with a wine might be, to retain freshness andlot more coastal influence.” purity of flavour. Pinot noir in the area was originally The future of Patrick of Coonawarra willplanted for sparkling wine production but embrace Luke Tocaciu’s pet interests suchLuke also sees it highly suited to dry red. as pinot noir and cider but the legacy of hisHe hopes that wine drinkers will give the father remains ever present.new region a go. Yes, they shared some general winemaking “People know the town but many don’t philosophies about producing age-worthyrealise that grapes grow there. It has a wines and keeping to a relatively unfussedbright future.” approach to delivering wine into the hands of wine drinkers, but there were the odd Luke’s winemaking is relatively no-fuss in differences of winemaking opinion.nature. French and American hogsheadsfor his cabernet, old and new French “Dad was very much old school. He wouldbarriques for the pinot noir, new oak for taste a wine and then make a decisionthe shiraz and modest alcohols for all. His on what needed to be done,” he says. “Istyle looks to pinpoint structure and display came to it from a scientific approach, justelegant tannins, with sometimes a textural out of university, and looking at the pH andpoint of difference and sometimes intense the TA (acid) and saying, ‘Ahh no, I don’tflavour and spice. know about that’. And he would just shake his head and say, ‘Yes, I think we do,’ and Aside from his winemaking prowess, he overrule me, and at the end of the dayhas also broadened his skills to include the mix of the modern technology and thecider making. things that I could bring, and his knowledge and experience and taste was fantastic to “I love cider and I taste a lot of the cider have. The legacy he built is something thaton the market but many are commercially keeps me going.” produced,” he says. Previous page: Luke Tocaciu and his wine. He decided to go with a different tack, Left: Luke and Pat Tocaciu in the vineyard. Opposite page: Patrick of Coonawarra Estate exterior, Luke sampling his wine.34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 35

GOLDEN FUTUREFOR A SURGING We should MICHAEL COOPER have people coming here HAWKE’S Bay... think chardonnay, blends a Marlborough style but in a style of its because they of merlot and cabernet sauvignon, and own,” believes McDonald. “I was in the most recently syrah. Or should we? UK recently showing our 2015 which has love the wonderful aromatics, lime, passionfruit,character and New Zealand’s second-largest wine fennel, with similar flavours on the palate.”diversity of our region is changing - fast. This vintage its handcrafted leading variety by far, in terms of tonnage, Hawke’s Bay’s sturdy, ripe sauvignon was sauvignon blanc. blancs suit barrel ageing, creating a wines. weighty, rich and complex style. Rod The surging interest in sauvignon blanc Easthope, who replaced McDonald as reflects demand. “If there’s a variety chair of the region’s wine show, has that Hawke’s Bay is going to build an also predicted an intensifying focus on international brand with, it’s sauvignon sauvignon blanc. blanc,” says Rod McDonald, of Te Awanga Estate and Quarter Acre, who until recently John Buck, of Te Mata Estate - famous chaired the Hawke’s Bay A&P Bayleys Wine for its classy, long-lived caber net Awards. sauvignon merlot Coleraine - believes Hawke’s Bay’s fine-wine potential McDonald says local producers should is just starting to be fully exploited not be tempted to add a Marlborough because its winegrowers have only sauvignon blanc to their range. “It makes recently arrived at an understanding of no sense for a Hawke’s Bay company at its highly varied topography. It is “the the fine wine end to go to Marlborough to specific grape growing sites that matter, source grapes because it’s a disconnect rather than a bland, one-size-fits-all that means there is no story to tell about approach... pockets, slopes, aspects, their own vineyard,” he says. water permeability and so on all come into play,” he says. “It is this feature that Fortunately, Hawke’s Bay can make sauvignon blanc “extremely well, not in36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

enables Hawke’s Bay to grow such a and Gimblett Gravels districts - lengthen Oyster Bay, Pernod Ricard NZ (Churchrange of varieties and to vinify them in the season, giving the grapes more timedifferent styles.” to build their flavours while retaining fresh Road, Brancott Estate, Stoneleigh) and acidity. Sileni reports that Mangatahi, in Here’s a question for lovers of NZ pinot terms of heat during the growing season Constellation NZ (Kim Crawford, Nobilo,noir. Which region last year produced the and rain during the harvest months, ismost - Waipara, home to such star pinot almost identical to Dijon, capital of the Selaks), are entrenched in Hawke’s Baynoir producers as Pegasus Bay and Muddy Burgundy region, in France.Water, or Hawke’s Bay? but Jenny Dobson, a veteran winemaking Fast rivers, notably the Tutaekuri, Pinot noir has traditionally flourished from Ngaruroro and Tukituki, run west-east consultant, recently advocated a differentthe Wairarapa (notably Martinborough) from the mountains, arriving at the coastsouth, in regions classified by viticulturists just 4km apart. However, winegrowers are marketing strategy.as “cool climate”. The big news is that the currently worrying that their consents toproduction of pinot noir in Hawke’s Bay, draw irrigation water from the Ngaruroro “Hawke’s Bay should be the boutiquelong known for its merlot and cabernet River - for all of the Gimblett Gravelssauvignon-based reds, is soaring. Last vineyards and large parts of the Bridge wine region of New Zealand,” she says.year, Hawke’s Bay’s output of pinot noir Pa Triangle and Crownthorpe - are underapproached the Wairarapa’s, was the same “strong pressure from iwi (tribes) and the “We are not blessed by having a large cityas Nelson’s - and almost doubled Waipara’s. environmental sector... The effects of such changes as are being signalled (raising on our doorstep and for the average tourist, Sileni Estate produces half of Hawke’s the minimum flow levels at which water forBay’s pinot noir. At inland sites on the irrigation can be drawn off) would be to we are a bit out on a limb geographically.Crownthorpe and Mangatahi Terraces, render a large portion of the Hawke’s Bay100m above sea level, cool air funnels vineyard area uneconomic...” We should have people coming heredown from the Ruahine Ranges. Here, coldnight temperatures - compared to down Giant producers such as Delegat’s/ because they love the character andon the plains, in the Bridge Pa Triangle diversity of our handcrafted wines.” Dobson points out that most of the region’s 75 producers are small, with a slim staff, or are owner-operators. “That’s very hard because size is a challenge financially. You have to have drive and passion to survive.” Above: Sacred Hill’s vineyards in the cool, elevated, upper reaches of the Dartmoor Valley yield powerful yet elegant chardonnays with impressive intensity and cellaring potential. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 37

A father and daughter team is one of the driving forces behind the surge in sparkling reds.38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

RedRENAISSANCE BUBBLING AWAYMICHAEL HINCESUCH is Rutherglen’s renowned reputation long been an acquired taste, mostly amongfor fortifieds, especially its muscats, that ageing baby boomers.it’s easy to forget that it is also home tosome fine, big-hearted red table wines And for good reason, as many of thelike durif. Few regions reward cellar door earlier Aussie sparkling reds were anvisits more than Rutherglen, and for that execrable afterthought, crudely carbonatedmatter Victoria’s North East, as on offer is and sloppily made from inferior fruit.a stunning array of off-beat, exotic cellar They were invariably syrupy, full-on,door-only varietals and museum release overpowering, tannic, fizzy fruit bombs – aback vintages - it would make Francois de legacy from which the category has neverCastella proud. fully recovered. But this is but part of the story, as tucked Until now! Just as there’s been a roséaway unobtrusively on Chiltern Rd is revolution there is a subliminal sparkling redAnderson Winery, a mecca for sparkling renaissance in the wings led by the likes ofshiraz enthusiasts or “spurglers”, myself talented father and daughter team Howardincluded. Spurglers was a term coined in and Christobelle Anderson. The pair make1991 by wine scribe Ian Loftus, the creator some sublime, magnificently mouth-filling,of what was once known as National luxuriant “liquid red caviar” that wouldSparkling Red Day. satisfy the most fastidious palate. Maligned, marginalised and summarily Howard’s flagship red fizz is a “shiraz (withdismissed by serious critics and the wine a touch of durif) that is a serious sparkling,cognoscenti in much the same way as not just a sparkling that just happens to belocal sparkling wine and rosé once were, made from shiraz”– and there’s a world ofsparkling reds (think mainly shiraz) have difference. The Anderson 2002 Cellar Block and the current release 2009 Sparkling November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 39

The pair make some sublime, magnificently mouth-filling,luxuriant ‘liquid red caviar’ thatwould satisfy the most fastidious palate.Shiraz are but two examples. then Seppelt in Rutherglen. He chose to Anderson Winery in 2005 after stints at Howard and Christobelle believe that put down roots in Rutherglen in his quest to Brown Brothers, Rutherglen Estates and make full-bodied reds and sparkling reds in overseas in Alsace and Champagne.many sparkling reds suffer from a lack of the old Seppelt Great Western style.varietal definition: “they are just bubbly With both his still and sparkling reds,red wines; our aim is to show the fruit’s In 1986 he was senior winemaker at Howard aims to get a full, rich mouthfeelinherent richness and character, and to add Jolimont Cellars, where Tuileries restaurant without high alcohols. Most Anderson redscomplexity via extended contact on lees”. and Rutherglen Estates cellar door now are. sit at 14-14.5 per cent which is comparable It was there he made a 1986 Sparkling Pinot to Heathcote’s, McLaren Vale’s and the The appeal of such wines lies in the Noir (white) and a 1986 Sparkling Cabernet Barossa’s counterparts. The recentlysavoury, spicy complexity that extended under the Jolimont label when no one in released 2010 Cellar Block Durif epitomisestime on lees and bottle age imparts, and Rutherglen, or north east Victoria (not even this philosophy.their rich, creamy, smooth, satisfying mouth Brown Brothers) made sparkling wines.feel. Visually in the glass, their mousse Anderson’s 8ha vineyard compriseslooks like liquid purplish, red caviar! After his stint at Jolimont Cellars there was plantings of shiraz, durif, petit verdot, chenin a brief partnership with Max Cofield in the blanc, viognier, tempranillo, muscat and Such bespoke, top-quality wines are late 1980s which saw a Cofield-Anderson the Georgian varietal saperavi. A sparklingmeticulously made from premium quality sparkling red. Then in 1992 Anderson saperavi is due for release in 2017.fruit and show inherent complexity, varietal Winery was born. Incidentally, Cofield’s soncharacter and finesse; however, at best, still Damien makes a mean sparkling shiraz There is something Cervantes-like aboutrepresent a niche market. of his own these days, as do many other making sparkling reds as those who do are Rutherglen vignerons. perceived as continuing to “tilt at windmills” Their provenance dates back to the and seem perennially caught in a Catchclassic Seppelt Great Westerns of the Significantly 2016 is the 30th anniversary 22 situation - wine show judges seldommid-1940s, namely a 1944 and ’46 Seppelt of the first sparkling wines being made in take sparkling reds seriously (hence manySparkling Burgundy (Shiraz) made by North East Victoria. These were made in producers avoid shows) while sommeliersthe famous Colin Preece in tandem with Rutherglen by none other than Howard either remain ignorant of their existence orthe talented Leo Hurley - which a young Anderson. Few would know this, as the obsessively pre-disposed to cool-climateHoward Anderson tasted in 1971. He was quiet, unassuming Howard hides his light wines. That’s despite them being veryinstantly enthralled. under a bushel, he prefers to let his wines food friendly. speak for themselves. As Christobelle says: “Dad was born in What better way for some Gen Ys and1946, so as a young 25-year-old winemaker, “Dad’s obsessed with quality, he respects millennials, currently drinking whites, liketasting a sparkling red the same age tradition yet paradoxically embraces new sweetish moscato or a drier prosecco, toas himself and one two years older, that ideas – he’s very thorough and if the best transition from whites into reds than via awere both still remarkably fresh, and like method is time consuming, difficult, fiddly well-made Anderson sparkling red. nothing else he’d had before…well, he still and unfashionably expensive, then so betalks about it, and that experience really it,” says Christobelle. Previous page: Anderson shiraz, Christobelle andswitched something on in his brain”. Howard Anderson. The savvy Christobelle graduated from Top: Storm over Anderson Winery, Rutherglen. Howard was senior winemaker at Seppelt Adelaide University’s Waite campus with Opposite page: Howard Anderson pruning, Barrels atGreat Western from 1971 to 1984 during honours in 2003 and joined her father at Anderson Winery, Howard Anderson pressing reds,which time he occasionally filled in at the Christobelle & Howard Anderson bottling.40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 41

HARNESSINGDURIF’SPOTENTAL

JENI PORTITS mother is peloursin, an ancient and they look to for benchmarking the style. But Like a number of her colleagues, Andersonlargely forgotten variety that enjoyed modest how do Rutherglen winemakers approach looks to present the grape in two guises: onesuccess in eastern France. Its father is their own benchmarking when their wines to drink now, one for the cellar.shiraz, which accounts for an immediate are virtually without comparison in the worldspark of tastebud recognition when drinkers of wine? Just launched is her Story Teller 2013first encounter the couple’s love child: durif. durif, medium bodied, tasty with sweet fruit. In France the grape retains a minor role, Meanwhile her Cellar Block Handpicked Durif is loved for its fruit and feared for while in California, where it is known as Basket Press 2008 durif reveals a dark,its tannin which possibly explains why not petite sirah, it enjoys success as a lower tier aged intensity, a taste familiar to those whoevery winemaker understands its needs or variety, but in Rutherglen, where the grape enjoy the grape’s dense, black spice andis able to harness its potential. has been grown since the early 1900s, it is tannic cut. well established as a national icon. Fortunately, in Winestate’s annual North Andrew Buller of the famous BullerEast Victoria wine tasting we are in the As it turns out, makers there are pretty winemaking family who recently set out onhome of durif in Australia and in the capable relaxed when it comes to technique. his own, is making durif a feature of his rangehands of eight successful producers - All of wines under Andrew Buller Wines fromSaints Estate, Anderson Winery, Andrew “We don’t try to push it into a style that his new 30.5ha Cannobie property outsideBuller Wines, Buller Wines, Morris Wines, isn’t what it naturally wants to be,” says Rutherglen.Rutherglen Estates, Scion Vineyard and St. Christobelle Anderson, winemaker atLeonards. Anderson Winery. “So, it’s going to be full “Due to durif’s ability to be versatile bodied. Our own palates are very much a over many wine styles,” he promises, As more Australian producers put the guide, too. We are aiming to make wines “we will continue to see a lot more of hergrape in the ground, it is Rutherglen that that we personally like to drink.” into the future.” November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 43

Traditionally, Morris Wines has been the gold standard, the one drinkers and other makers look to as the regional and national durif benchmark.44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

His own take is definitely on the generous done, a powerfully persuasive wine.side with the 2015 durif weighing in at 15.5 At the other extreme is Rutherglenper cent alcohol, a high reading to be surebut something some makers believe is Estates, one of the biggest vineyards innecessary to soften the grape’s ferocious Rutherglen with 358ha, treating the grapetannins. with great tenderness. So far, the 2013 Renaissance durif has taken four trophies Other producers choose to work the at Australian wine shows, its pretty, sweet-tannins once the grapes hit the winery fruited elegance clearly appealing torather than through extreme ripening. judges. Nick Brown at All Saints Estate and St. Another exciting alternate bent comesLeonard’s harvests the fruit as soon as from Rowland “Rowly” Milhinch at Scion, afull ripeness occurs and sets to work in young winemaker with a loose, rebelliousthe winery fermenting the grapes the old- streak when it comes to durif.school way, in open concrete fermenterswith hand plunging (gently, he emphasises) “Durif is developing into some excitingfollowed by one to two weeks’ maceration territory,” he offers. And, for his part, he’sand, finally, some equally gentle pressing leading the way in seeing what the grapeto break the tannins down. The All Saints can do not only as a dry table wine but asEstate 2014 durif is testament to his lighter a rosé, in a blend with white grape viogniertouch: spice to the fore, lingering aromatics, and as a semi-sweet fortified.licorice, black fruits, nevertheless with asolid structure. And now there’s a fifth element. “This year,” he says. “I’ve made a barrel Aromatics, with an idiosyncratic of 100 per cent whole bunch and stalksspearmint/eucalypt scent, are also a durif which is super interesting. I will dofeature of the new Balladeer 2015 durif from this again next year.Buller Wines, a company now enjoying a “There is still much to explore.” rebirth following its sale to Albury-basedB.E. Judd Holdings in 2013. Previous page 42 from left to right: Food from Terrace Restaurant, wine from Anderson wines strapped to a Traditionally, Morris Wines has been the bike, wine with friends at Chambers Rosewood, foodgold standard, the one drinkers and other platter from Lake Moodemere Estate, winemakers ofmakers look to as the regional and national Rutherglen durif tasting, and main street of Rutherglendurif benchmark. It continues thus, with its at dusk.wines easily capable of clocking up multipledecades in the cellar. The 2007 CHM durif Previous page 43 from top to bottom: Rutherglen(named in honour of the extraordinary vines, Rutherglen \"view from the wine bottle\".Charles Henry “Mick” Morris, father ofwinemaker David Morris) shows how it is Opposite page from left to right: Rutherglen visitor centre, couple enjoying a picnic, cycling on the Rail Trail and Rutherglen vineyards during Spring. Top: Beautiful Rutherglen sunset. Middle: Wicked Virgin Olives. Bottom: Wine selection from Thousand Pound wine bar and store.November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 45

In only a couple ofdecades, NZ pinot noirhas gone from being acuriosity to a wine ofpedigree and desire.46 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

PRESTIGIOUS PinotNew Zealand winemakers are showing theworld how to bottle premium pinot noir.JANE SKILTON MW emerging. At the top end winemakers pinot noir as a collective conscience.” are taking a more hands-off approach,THERE is nothing New Zealanders love more intervening only when necessary, but instead To reinforce its commitment to this mercurialthan a challenge but contesting Burgundy’s allowing the vineyard to express itself throughsupremacy as the best place to grow pinot the wine. grape, the NZ wine industry hosts a numbernoir? Though that would seem the biggestchallenge, it didn’t stop the plucky Kiwi Wairarapa, home to Martinborough, Te of celebrations that attract both trade andwinemakers from attempting to do just that. Muna and Gladstone produces wines that are restrained and structured, with long, fine consumers, many from overseas. In 2000 there was just over 1000ha of pinot tannins. Marlborough makes the biggestnoir planted but by the end of 2016 that range of pinot styles, from youthful and Ben Glover, group winemaker for Accoladefigure will be closer to 5500ha, making it NZ’s cherryish through to complex and intricatesecond most popular variety. with excellent ageing potential. Nelson is NZ, is the chairman of Pinot 2017. Why does home to fragrant, complex, and earthy wines Yet on my first visit to NZ in 1990 I tasted with rich, spicy, cherry and plum flavours, he think wine lovers are prepared to make thea pinot noir that was so slender as to be while Waipara pinot has a distinctive redalmost transparent. Working for an importer currant note, relatively full bodied with spice epic journey to NZ to attend?of burgundy, I was used to pinots of structure and structure. Finally Central Otago whoseand potential. I couldn’t see either attribute in range of macro-climates gives wines of clear “No other variety conjures up seduction bythe wine I tasted and decided there was little definition; Gibbston Valley with its lifted, racyfuture for the variety. ethereal character, alongside the fuller, more ‘sense of place’ like pinot noir,” he said. “It is tannic wines from Bannockburn. Fast forward 25 years and it seems I was to up to the Pinot Noir 2017 board to make surebe proved wrong. Today NZ pinot noir is all the Fraser McKenzie sales and marketingrage, a “must have” on many restaurant lists manager for Mt Difficulty Wines has worked in this magic still occurs in a wine world thatand a firm favourite among wine aficionados. both New York and Dubai, so given his global experience, why does he think NZ pinot noir unfortunately is falling into a sense of beige So why has NZ pinot become so popular? is so popular?Maybe because there are only a few regions and drab. The NZ pinot noir producers will bethat are capable of producing pinots of “NZ pinot noir has vine age (Martinborough),purity, delicacy and floridity. The climate the edge of extremity for grape growing ‘selling the sizzle’ of what makes them tick,favours the production of wines of elegance; (Central Otago) and emerging wine regionsdaytime summer temperatures can reach that hadn’t had much exposure before such where they farm, and why pinot noir is their30C but the nights are cool. The large diurnal as Waipara,” he said. “It also, at least in thedifference helps to preserve acidity and keep beginning, involved smaller companies, more life blood. The notion of Turangawaewae, afruit aromas vibrant and flavours pristine. personalities in the stories. Pinot noir has aWinemakers believe that the purity of UV light complex regional narrative, and producers ‘sense of place’ and the dynamics behind thismagnifies the effect of the sun’s rays leading that never, not that I’m aware of, said ‘weto riper tannins earlier in the season so grapes want to make burgundy’. The NZ wine expression sets this variety on fire and makescan be picked fully ripe yet with the fruit still industry followed its own path. There hasfresh and alive. Importantly, the riper fruit been a worldwide movement around craft and this event unique in telling our pinot noir story.”tannin structure offers excellent potential for artisanal production but does the NZ pinotthe wines to age well. noir peg fit these holes? Sure, but that only Though comparisons don’t tell the whole set us up to be a one hit, one article wonder. But perhaps the most important evolution in Instead, the NZ pinot noir story has resonated story, NZ pinot, with its brilliant colour andthe premium NZ pinot story is the emergence in a multi-faceted way; the wines are worldof true regional diversity. Whereas once class, with regional diversity, complexity, age vivid fruit profile, can seem more energeticthe particular clone, barrel manufacturer or ability and a passionate group of producersambition of the winemaker were the defining who are determined to grow the story of NZ than many Australian premium pinot noirs,features of much of the wine produced,nowadays there is a real sense of place the latter often seeming more structured and buttoned down. And what of Burgundy? Although maybe NZ is yet to reach the epic heights of the best grand crus, where it does excel is making superlative wines at much lower price points. Consumers who have experienced insipid, tart Bourgogne Rouge or skeletal Hautes Cotes (and who hasn’t?) find NZ pinot, with its abundance of soft red summer fruits and gentle soft tannins a much more welcome and consistent proposition. The youthfulness of the wine industry and the associated absence of winemaking tradition prevalent in more established regions has meant producers can progress more quickly than most. In only a couple of decades, NZ pinot noir has gone from being a curiosity to a wine of pedigree and desire. The future looks bright for our most enigmatic red wine. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 47

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINA HOTEL licensed for up to 850 people Bianco, another Italian favourite in Kew - is in the 70-seater. The cooler months saw aopened in the middle of the year in the behind Massi. Named after Vargetto’s son mushroom and chestnut risotto with chevremiddle of Melbourne. The Garden State Massimo, it’s a stylish 50-seater dining fly out the door and the more comfortingHotel in Flinders Lane - where the once room, including stools around the bar and Western Plains pork cotoletta, fennel andiconic Rosati restaurant previously sat 30 at a combination of booths and tables. apple slaw keeps business folk, families- opened to much curiosity (over 14000 Take in an Aperol Spritz or Campari at the and hungry types sated. It’s Sibley onpeople went for a look, drink or meal in marble bar matched with some salumi from the pans, so be sure to plan for dessert,the first 16 days of operation) and for a the bright red meat slicer (also on the bar) perhaps the rhubarb and beurre noisettecity that doesn’t always embrace larger or sip on a cafe corretto with cannoli. You tart, rose and strawberry. Syracuse has longdining rooms, Melbourne has picked up the can also nestle in to a booth and take in the been known as a great wine bar with food toGarden State with both hands and is asking classic Italian dishes that have Vargetto’s support the list and changing wines-by-the-for more. Perhaps it’s because the hotel undeniably contemporary approach. Still- glass, but thanks to Sibley the food is nowhas been broken into different sections - warm focaccia is served in a gold-edged on equal billing. 23 Bank Place, Melbourne;creating individual areas - to accommodate calico bag, Spanish pork sausage stained phone (03) 9670 1777. different needs so you don’t feel like you’re with squid ink is a chewy salty additionsitting in a mess hall. In the main dining to the antipasti and pickled vegetables All above: Massi restaurant interior views.room, the Garden Grill Room, reminiscent zest up the meats. Vargetto’s squid inkof a New York Grill you’ll find great steaks, spaghettini already has the regularsa Raw Bar and a hefty selection of seafood demanding it never be removed from thedishes. On the basement level lies a saloon menu. The tangle of pasta given crunchcalled the Rose Garden where you can sip with toasty pangrattato is ample, with juicyon cocktails and sample bar snacks. The crab and clams,vibrant in a buttery seafoodfirst floor you will find the Balcony Dining reduction. If seafood isn’t your thing, try theRoom, a private dining room for up to 20 Cavatelli with slow-cooked pork shoulderpeople; there’s also the Public Bar and ragu and white beans - an earthy sweetThe Kiosk with toasted sandwiches and dish lifted by the vegetable protein butother foods-to-go. The Observatory is a ever so comforting (even in the warmersophisticated, light-filled space for up to weather) or the roast chicken stuffed with120 people with views to the beer garden cotechino and soft polenta is the stuff ofbelow and out into the city. The menus, by the Mother Country but taken to the NewAshly Hicks, formerly head chef of Circa World, pork sausage filling the bird with thein St Kilda, have been created to be flexible creamy polenta that binds the flavours. It’sand are built around good produce. He has very good.taken on a beast of a business - servingsalted snapper beignets and Sher Wagyu The wine list is also clever with the mostlyhotdogs in the Rose Garden to lamb ribs Italian selection and the appearance ofand market fish in the Public Bar as well as small boutique Australian makers. 445all the other outlets. The site of the venue Little Collins St, Melbourne; phone (03)that began 130 years ago as a textile mill, 9670 5347.made its mark as Rosati but is now oneof the more significant developments in Quite literally just around the corner fromthe city, bringing the spotlight back to that Massi is Syracuse on Bank Place. It’s apart of Flinders Lane. 101 Flinders Lane, former bank building replete with archways,Melbourne; phone (03) 8396 5777. wooden trimmings and enormous ceilings that has also been catering to the corporates You’d think we’d have enough good in this part of town for the last 20 years. TheItalian dining rooms in Melbourne; there’s owners, Richard and Nancy Moussi,Grossi Florentino, Ombra and Tipo 00 in bought the venue in 2011 and just thisthe CBD and Richmond’s Union Dining year employed Philippa Sibley - the highlyand Osteria la Passione. These are just regarded pastry chef and savoury chef - toa handful of venues in a city that loves run their tiny kitchen. They’ve given SibleyItalian food and it’s this love that has seen an open brief and it’s created a new canvasthe opening of Massi on Little Collins St for the much-loved dining room that hascelebrated by the corporate city crowd. ebbed and flowed in recent years. SibleyChef Joseph Vargetto - who owns Mr is French trained, with a modern sensibility that has made it more difficult to get a table48 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS house-made ice cream with espresso and almond biscotti. There’s an excellent wine list with plenty by the glass. Georges on Waymouth, 20 Waymouth St, Adelaide is open for breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday and dinner Tuesday-Saturday; phone (08) 8211 6960. From the outside Ballaboosta looks like an oversize garage - in fact it was once a laundromat - with customers spilling on to the street when the weather’s fine. But when the weather closes in, so do the foldaway doors and inside is one of the coziest dining spaces in town, sitting almost on top of the huge wood oven that fires much of the menu. Ballaboosta is a Yiddish term for aSMALL, independently-owned hotels can manager and co-owner Fiona Nairn, who mother who holds her family together withoften provide surprisingly good food and calls the dinners “my baby”, started themwine offerings, and the Caledonian Hotel, 13 years ago after running similar dinners at love and affection, and that’s the warmthon the edge of Adelaide’s CBD facing Woodstock winery. With her chefs she’s nowthe northern parklands, is one of them. worked out a repertoire of around 60 wine- that infuses this restaurant. Start with classicIts Bartons Restaurant has long held a friendly dishes, enabling them, she says, toreputation for an interesting menu and very “play with flavours”. Upcoming dinners in Lebanese mezes, salads such as a supersound cooking, and the current kitchen under November and December include wineshead chef Mark Johnson is no exception. from Tasmania and Mumm Champagne. crunchy fresh fatoush, a very traditionalThe restaurant is a pleasant room, filled with Not surprisingly, Barton’s has a good winelight through north-facing floor to ceiling list, especially strong in sparklings and reds. Lebanese dish, or brilliant little pastrieswindows, with outside tables available when Bartons Restaurant is open for lunch andthe weather is suitable. An adjacent cafe area dinner seven days and is at 219 O’Connell called sambousik, stuffed with minced beefprovides more than competent standard pub St, North Adelaide; phone (08) 8267 1375.grub. Johnson’s innovative menu consists and toasted pine nuts. There are heartyentirely of well-priced but smaller entree- The success of George Kasimatis atsized dishes, ranging from double-baked his eponymous Georges on Waymouth soups such as spicy lentil with rice andcheese souffle with garlic cream sauce to has seen his restaurant live on as one ofslow cooked beef cheek and mushroom Adelaide’s best places to mix business spinach, then main courses such as samakpie with sweet potato puree or prawn and with a first rate lunch right in the middle of acrab ravioli with fennel and seafood sauce. rapidly expanding CBD restaurant precinct. harra – literally hot fish, oven baked servedThere’s the added bonus that if hungry Kasimatis has the business community tapeddiners order two dishes they’ll get a third which is why the restaurant often doubles with tahini and chilli sauce, or a wood-firedcourse thrown in free. But what sets Bartons as a venue for informal business meetingsreally apart from the competition is its series throughout the day – some sit in the front warm chicken salad. Everything comes withof weekly wine dinners featuring leading window to be seen, while others choose morewine makers – even dinners matched with discrete spaces further back. There’s also a pillows of puffed up pita bread, straight fromcognac, beer, whisky and champagne. This fine upstairs private dining room. But whenmust be one of very few places in Australia it comes to lunch, the intent is serious, with the wood oven. The wine list features highlythat can manage a highly demanding wine- terrific antipasto and a short daily specialsmatched dinner at least once a week year menu. The regular menu is mostly based on individual local winemakers. With restaurantround. Generally priced at around $88, classic Italian dishes such as a tortellini ofthey include five or six courses matched osso bucco with green olive tapenade and owner Naj Moubayed’s mother, Betty, thewith up to 14 wines generally presented by crisp kale, or pressed lamb with pancettatheir winemakers. One recent such dinner, and mustard fruits, but then there is also “ballaboosta” in charge of the kitchen, this isfeaturing wines from Willunga 100, Yalumba extra variety in dishes such as maple-glazedand Running with Bulls, matched with up to beef brisket with horseradish puree and dill a recipe for homespun hospitality at its best.three wines per course, 13 in all. General pickles. Even lunchtime appetites usually stretch to concluding the meal with affogato, Ballaboosta, 289 Halifax St, Adelaide is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday- Saturday, breakfast and lunch Sunday; phone (08) 8232 1853. Top left: The Caledonian restaurant interior. Above: Ballaboosta restaurant interior. November/December 2016 W I N E S TAT E 49

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGSENIOR police officers must have wept when sections of the menu when perusing the share with Alpha, one of the finest modern GreekNSW Police Headquarters were relocated dishes. The grilled tongue, quince, anchovyfrom College St in the CBD to Parramatta in and endive was as startling as it sounds - in a restaurants in Sydney. His guiding hand is2003. No more million-dollar views of Hyde good way. Other major thumbs-ups included -Park and a quiet lunch listening to the birds. mussels, lemon myrtle, artichoke and dill, fried very apparent in the cocktail list and menu atThe Residence, a luxury apartment block, cuttlefish, egg and potato and cured sardines,took over the prized chunk of real estate. pickled cucumber and tomato. Sommelier Beta. Bar manager Nathan Cannon leads aAt the end of June, Sydney diners could at Annette Lacey has put together a wide-last enjoy the panoramic vista over Sydney's ranging wine list for connoisseurs, rather than team of movie-perfect bartenders who pump“green lung” once a major perk for the city’s budgeteers, to match Tordesillas’ inspiredfinest, thanks to the opening of The Resident. touch in the kitchen. Alsatian rieslings, red out Dirty Greek Martinis and Pisco Sours. IMaybe it was intentional. The sleek premises and white riojas and Italian pinot grigios mixfeature travertine flooring, leather finishes it with some of the finest Australian and Kiwi imagine some people might like to pop in forand - ahem - copper detailing. Synchronicity bottlings. For those who live each day as ifalso rears its head with the choice of chef, it was their last because one day it will be, a drink or two and some olives on the side.Spaniard Pedro Tordesillas, who originally there’s rarified French treats such as 2010studied law before discovering a passion Taupenot-Merme Charmes Chambertin Good luck to them. The share plates herefor food. He earned his Australian cooking Grand Cru. The charcoal grill choices arechops at Otto but is renowned as the former simply sensational from the duck livers, are a knockout and it’s hard not to over order.head chef of Ortiga, the Brisbane restaurant saltbush and salsify to the Spanish mackerel,which rose to national fame. The Resident is piperrada and watercress. No one had room Consider: sweetbread popcorn accompaniedowned by The Lotus Group, famed for its to tackle the kilo of beef, priced at a hefty $95,Chinese restaurants, including The Galeries. but the lamb breast, smen and Ord Valley by zhoug skordalia, oysters with cucumber,Tordesillas sticks to his Spanish roots but chickpeas were an exquisite meat substitute.avoids the word tapas, even though many Toss in a quartet of desserts that are worth the green olive, rose and sumac dressing and theof the share plates fit the description. For visit alone. Hot tips: the spaghetti pumpkinanyone fearful of going hungry, there’s no milhojas, an Iberian twist on millefeuille, and most innovative interpretation of Greek salad -chance of that with the star turn of the larger goats milk yogurt, orange and rosemary withdishes - 1kg dry aged rib eye, leaves and tiny flecks of brik pastry. That view of Hyde a layer of feta cheese pudding and a moundherbed desiree potatoes. The snacks are a bit Park? At night, its magical with the floodlitlike the building itself - traditional mixed with trees and monumental reliefs of the Anzac of iced horiataki (the proper name for themodern - veering from olives to escabeche Memorial. By day, it’s hard to believe you’re inof mussels and oysters topped with a granny the middle of a city closing in on a population universal salad) standing in for tomatoes andsmith and chardonnay granita. The wine by of five million. The Resident, 18 College St,the glass offerings are equally eclectic from Darlinghurst; phone (02) 8318 8618. cucumber. On a trip to Athens once, I mademuscadets from the Loire to tongue-twistingBasque wines such as 2014 Txomin Extaniz Comparisons are odious and frequently a list of the best modern Greek restaurants inTxaakoli. Keep in mind that you have to leave unfair. But I was reminded of the Baccaratroom for the char-grilled and larger plate Cristal Room restaurant in Paris when I walked the city. The main reason? To discover how up the stairs at Alpha Restaurant into Beta Bar. Paul Papadopoulos and the DS17 team they could reinvent moussaka. Conistis has have created a similar chic blend of exposed brick, plush furnishings and eye-catching already excelled in this area with his iconic lighting - albeit not as stratospherically priced as Baccarat crystal chandeliers. This eggplant, scallop and tarama moussaka. gorgeous space was meant to open last year, but it’s been worth the wait. Chef Peter At Beta Bar he does the same for the lamb Conistis continues to entice Sydney diners variety. Simply superb. Beta Bar, Level One, 238 Castlereagh St; phone (02) 8599 8970. I’m not a vegetarian but I am constantly in search of elegant, sophisticated food that just happens to be veggie. Earlier this year, Yellow, one of the trio of star restaurants run by Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt (the others are the Bentley and Monopole), started offering vegan and vegetarian tasting and a la carte menus. The splendid results would woo any dyed-in-the-wool meat lover. The menu listings might sound simple but leave any preconceptions at the door. Millennials mix it with Gen Xers and Baby Boomers to sink their teeth into kohlrabi, enoki mushroom and vegetable broth, young fennel, goat’s cheese and black garlic and baby potatoes, pepitas and king oyster mushrooms. Great food without any qualifications whatsoever. Yellow, 71A Macleay St, Potts Point; phone (02) 9360 4410. Top right: The Resident restaurant interior view. Bottom left: Food from The Resident restaurant, featuring WA octopus, ajo blanco, sumac and grapes.50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2016