Winestate Magazine July August 2012

regional tastingTaylors St Andrews Clare Taylors St Andrews Clare Pauletts AndreasValley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Valley Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Premium Polish Hill RiverUpfront oak characters mingle A big, old-fashioned style - Shiraz 2008 HHHwith ripe raspberry and plum-like soft, sweet and very drinkable Oak driven style with maturefruit elements showing a lovely with great nutty development aromas and medium bodiedlift of spices and herbs. $60 evident. $60 spicy plum palate. $60Taylors Clare Valley Claymore Wines Walk on SWEET WHITESShiraz 2010 HHH1/2 the Wild Side Clare ValleyLong, well-structured deep Shiraz 2010 HHH 3 TASTEDpurple wine with lovely mulberry- A compote of intense and fresh 2 AWARDEDlike varietal fruit balanced by dark berry fruits on both thesome very nice oak. $19 nose and palate. $20 Two nice sweeties to finish off Annie’s Lane Vintage a pleasant meal.Knappstein Clare Valley Annie’s Lane Quelltaler Release Clare ValleyShiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Watervale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH Taylors WinemakingBig and powerful and very Cabernet 2010 HHH1/2 Good, stylish, berry fruit Project Clare Valleyyoung, and brimming over with Big, ripe, berry lift to the nose nose and lovely mouthfilling Botrytis Riesling 2011mulberry fruit and strawberry and excellent depth of youthful roundness on the palate. $20.99 (375ml) HHH1/2jam-like characters. $22 fruit flavours on the soft and La Bise Southern Flinders Lovely, honeyed/dried apricot-Skillogalee Take Two supple palate. $24.99 Shiraz 2008 HHH like botrytis characters on theClare Valley Shiraz Leasingham Tarry, jammy bouquet and huge, nose and the stylish palate withCabernet 2009 HHH1/2 Bin 61 Clare Valley maturing, oak-driven palate with lovely, citrussy notes. $22Rich, soft and very drinkable Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 powerful tannins. $19wine with good level of leafy, Great colour. Lovely rich Taylors Eighty Acres Reillys Dry Land Clareblackberry fruit balanced by fruit cake nose and big, Clare Valley Shiraz Valley Fortified Shiraznice, spicy oak. $22 flavoursome, ripe fruit palate. Viognier 2008 HHH 2008 (375ml) HHH Ready for drinking now. $22.99 Complex nose and soft and Simple young tawny with fleshy in the mouth, and full of lovely soft spirit and plumy, fruit tarry, menthol fruit. $15 characters. Needs time. $25BID ONLINE. BUY ONLINE. LEARN ONLINETry something new, something different, something boutique...Something exclusive... Grapescape Wines also offers a dedicated members area, where you can add andIntroducing Grapescape Wines - a new online marketplace for Australian boutique wines. share tasting notes with other membersQuality wines you won’t find on major sites or through more traditional outlets. and manage your online cellar andGrapescape Wines are offering only the best quality Australian wine through: purchase history. BID NOW live auctions where you can find a great deal or bid on limited releases BUY NOW browse listings of some of the best wine this country has to offer Next time you attend a dinner party or social engagement, make sureTo view our full range, visit: www.grapescapewines.com you bring along one of Australia’s best boutique wines from grapescapewines.comwww.grapescapewines.com July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 101

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINMcLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUEARTHY FAVOURS NIGEL ELBOWS IN NEW FOCUSVISITORS to McLaren Vale cellar doors THE Elbow Room restaurant is the new home ANGOVE is one of South Australia’sor the local visitors’ centre until the end of Chef Nigel Rich, who spent eight years as oldest family-owned and operated wineof July will be the only people able to try co-head chef at the iconic ‘d'Arry's Verandah’. producers, established by Dr Williamthe 28 new-release, 2010 single-block It is part of Producers of McLaren Vale, a Thomas Angove at Tea Tree Gully, at theshiraz wines that were recently unveiled vineyard/orchard/farm where Tori Moreton and foot of the Adelaide Hills, in 1886. But itunder the McLaren Vale Scarce Earth David Arbon make wine, olive oil, cheese and also has one of the lowest profiles of thebanner. Scarce Earth is a McLaren Vale hold food classes for gourmets. It’s a relatively wine industry’s major producers. Thatinitiative exploring and celebrating the small space with killer views overlooking the is all changing with the opening of thegeological, climatic and soil diversity vines and is only open for lunch Friday to company’s new, high-visibility cellar doorof the region and its flagship, shiraz. It Sunday, although dinners are available by in McLaren Vale – and the release of newhighlights the region’s best vineyards arrangement. After just a few months, the ranges of wines centred on its premiumreaching their full expression throughsingle-site wines contrasted by the sub- Elbow Room attracted a cracking review Warboys Vineyard, over which the newregions and soil geology profiles they from John Lethlean in The Australian – and is tasting facility looks. In conjunction withcome from. Each wine must meet the proving popular with locals and visitors alike. the cellar door opening, Angove Familyminimum requirements to be eligible and a The constantly changing menu has only four Winemakers has released several newpanel consisting of three local winemakers choices for each course. Starters may (or may premium wines – all made from McLarenand three independent experts assess not) include the likes of cold smoked venison Vale fruit and available for tasting. “Weeach wine to ensure that site is expressed with burnt onion aioli and braised mushrooms, have been quietly working hard on ourin the glass and the wine is free of overt or steamed cuttlefish with pickled radish, curly McLaren Vale portfolio in the winery overwinemaking influences. Wineries involved endive and ink dressing. Main choices can be the last 10 years and our cellar doorinclude familiar names like Chapel Hill, along the lines of goat braised in coconut milk launch includes new wines of which we ared’Arenberg, Geoff Merrill Wines and Wirra and lemon verbena with baby turnips, or confit particularly proud,” said fifth-generationWirra, as well as boutique producers like duck leg with kim chi and pickled carrot salad. winemaker Richard Angove. The newnewcomer Waygood Wines, Cradle of Hills, The food is serious, the prices less so, with cellar door is certainly worth stoppingShirvington, Batttle of Bosworth and Vigna Rich using local farm produce. With a wall of in on for anyone visiting the FleurieuBottin. Others involved include Halifax, windows, every table has a view and there is Peninsula. The bench tops and tablesHugh Hamilton, Shingleback, Vinrock, courtyard dining in summer and an open fire in have been crafted from re-cycled jarrahDowie Doole, Kangarilla Road, Serafino, winter. “The idea is of space,” Rich says. “You from the family’s 100-year-old storagePenny’s Hill and Primo Estate. Prices range look out on a great space, have space to dine vats. “Our aim is to provide a place wherefrom $30 a bottle to $132 for the Wirra Wirra and then its elbows on the table with space to people can come and experience all thePatritti Single Vineyard Shiraz and most of relax.” The Elbow Room is at 68 Branson Rd, things McLaren Vale has to offer,” Richardthe wines were made in small quantities McLaren Vale; phone (08) 8323 0060. www. Angove said. “Great wine, great food,– ranging from under 400 bottles to over theelbowroom.com.au. enviable lifestyle and hospitality, and a500 cases. The wines involved in the 2012Scare Earth program come from 14 of the19 geographical zones identified withinMcLaren Vale. “The idea is for the winesto reflect where they come from, ratherthan be tainted by oak or winemakingartefact,” said Drew Noon, of Noon Wines.The wines are only available at cellar doorsuntil the end of July to encourage peopleto visit the region. After that they will goon general sale – if any remain. For furtherinformation visit www.mclarenvale.infoor go to Facebook: www.facebook.com/mclarenvalescarceearthshiraz.102 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

travelbriefssuperb environment, combining countryand coast. We’ve created a destinationthat we hope will immerse visitors in theultimate McLaren Vale experience andoffer much more than your standard cellardoor.” The new Angove cellar door is openfrom 10am-5pm daily at 117 Chalk Hill Rd,McLaren Vale; phone (08) 8323 6900.www.angove.com.au.CROWING ABOUT a brewery and olive crushing (in season). STABLE OPTIONCHOOK’S TOURS All tours include a cheese platter and a light lunch prepared with seasonal local d’ARENBERG is among the most visitedCHOOK McCoy is a well-known Fleurieu produce. Prices vary depending on size cellar doors in McLaren Vale, in partPeninsula personality, taking customers of the group and the length of the tour, but because of the popularity of its restaurantof his Chook’s Little Winery Tour to some start from $90 per person. Phone 0414 922 and a portfolio of over 40 wines, but veryof the more interesting cellar doors in the 200. www.chookslittlewinerytours.com.au. few visitors take the time to check out theregion. Usually dressed in a colourful old stables on the property, which havewaistcoat and bow tie, Willunga-based FOOD VICTORY been converted to a gallery and interpretiveChook knows everyone who is anyone centre. The 19th-century stables are alsoin McLaren Vale and prides himself on A VISIT to The Victory Hotel at Sellicks used for private tastings, which take inoffering a very different experience for Beach is de rigueur for anyone visiting the winemaking process and techniqueshis guests. “A lot of people come to the Fleurieu Peninsula. Popular with such as foot treading and basket pressingMcLaren Vale with a list of wineries they winemakers, tourists and locals alike, The which are still used for some d’Arenbergwant to visit,” he said. “I take onboard Victory boasts superb views to the ocean, wines. Staff share the winery’s winemakingsome of their suggestions but also try superior pub grub and an excellent wine philosophies by exploring current and back list, as well as several beers on tap. The vintage wines across the range. A one-hourto take them to some places they might restaurant is open for lunch seven days a session costs $15 per person but advancenever have heard of before.” Tours are week from noon until 2:30pm and for dinner bookings are required; phone (08) 8329available for groups or individuals and from 6pm to 9pm, seating 60 inside and 40 4828. d’Arenberg this year celebrated itscan take in barrel tastings and vineyard outside, with the enclosed veranda area 100th birthday – and is about to releasewalks, and a standard full-day tour will providing a private area, with gas heating a set of a dozen individual vineyardinclude up to six wineries and pick up and available during the colder months. The shirazes priced at $99 a bottle. The cellardrop off in Adelaide or Glenelg if required. restaurant is licensed but also allows BYO door is unusual in that the entire rangeOptional extras or alternative stops include with corkage of $10 per bottle, while there can be tasted, including icon reds Thechocolate, glass and cheese producers, are over 8000 bottle options in the cellar, Dead Arm Shiraz, The Coppermine Road focusing on McLaren Vale but featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and The Ironstone icon wines from around the country – and Pressings Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre. an excellent selection by the glass. The The d’Arenberg cellar door and ‘d’Arry’s Victory has three serviced B&B cottages Verandah’ restaurant are open seven overlooking the vineyards and coastline, days a week at Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale. located on 67ha of private native woodland. www.darenberg.com. They cost from $165 per night, including breakfast. The Victory Hotel is at Main South Left: Angove’s cellar door. Rd, Sellicks Hill; phone (08) 8556 3083. Right: The Victory Hotel terrace. www.victoryhotel.com.au. Opposite page. d’Arenberg verandah restaurant. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 103

321 TASTED193 AWARDEDMcLAREN VALE, LANGHORNECREEK & FLEURIEUA region that gives you a big “bang for your buck” d’Arenberg The Hermit Tapestry McLaren Valeacross the big blockbuster styles from McLaren Vale Crab McLaren Vale Viognier Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2to the more elegant mid-weight styles from Langhorne Marsanne 2010 HHH1/2 A fresh lifted and well-balancedCreek and southern Fleurieu. Lots of interest here in Fresh fruit sweetness on wine with lively fruit, creamythe unusual red and white Mediterranean varietals, the nose and a crisp, clean, malo, good level and balance ofwhich are getting attention, but shiraz is still king! crunchy palate. “Screaming for oak and acid. $18 full-flavoured food,” said one Red Knot By ShinglebackSPARKLING judge. $11.95 McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2011 HHH5 TASTED Richard Hamilton A lovely balance of stone fruit Mr V McLaren Vale characters, racy acidity and2 AWARDED Marsanne Rousanne well-handled oak. $14.95 Viognier 2011 HHH Shingleback McLaren ValeOne good red sparkling and one Spicy nose with a lavender lift Chardonnay 2011 HHHgood white sparkling on offer. and melons and peaches on the Fresh fig aromas with palate. Good acid length. $15.50 tropical esters. On the palateBlackbilly McLaren Vale the oak integrated well withSparkling Shiraz SB4 HHH Scarpantoni Estate the fruit. $18.95Dark caramel/fruit bouquet and McLaren Vale Sauvignon RockBare McLaren Valedark fruits on well-balanced Blanc 2011 HHH Chardonnay 2011 HHHpalate with fine tannins. $18 Obvious pungent varietal Intriguing “lemon drop” nose aromas and luscious, compact and simple, well-balanced,G. Patritti & Co Methode palate with tropical notes. $18 flinty, tropical palate. $39.95Traditionale McLaren Vale Hastwell & LightfootPinot Noir Chardonnay Vigna Bottin McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Chardonnay2006 HHH Vermentino 2011 HHH 2010 HHHVibrant, toasty, bottle-aged Herbaceous floral bouquet and Pome fruit fragrances andaromas with a crisp, fresh, clean, crisp, minerally lemon fleshy, crunchy palate withlemony palate. $14 palate. $22 loads of personality. $19.50OTHER Lone Tree Langhorne Creek CHARDONNAY By Jingo! SouthernWHITE VARIETALS Verdelho 2011 HHH1/2 & BLENDS Fleurieu Mendoza Clone& BLENDS Lifted vibrant lychee and paw paw Chardonnay 2009 HHH aromas with intense, tropical fruit 22 TASTED Nutty, aged, nose-rich, round21 TASTED presence on the palate. Good 8 AWARDED and well-balanced in the7 AWARDED acid backbone. $14.95 mouth. Very enjoyable. $42 Hand Crafted by Geoff “A consistent commercial class;The southern Rhone white Hardy Langhorne Creek good drinking but without greatvarieties of vermentino and Roussanne 2011 HHH1/2 highlights,” commented oneverdelho do well in this region. Blossoms and honey on the judge. “This region is safe for nose and nice balance of chardonnay, but is that enough!”Rosemount Estate marzipan, lemon and melonNursery Project characters on the more-ish Lake Breeze ReserveLanghorne Creek Fiano palate. $18 Langhorne Creek2011 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHGood spectrum of lifted fruit Stylish wine with stonefruitaromas and a nice palate aromas, tropical notes andweight with crisp and fresh some smoky oak. Full roundedlemony flavours and a long, palate with excellent balancelingering finish. $24.99 and length. $24 Richard Hamilton Almond Grove McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Smells of freshly baked bread with some floral overtones and with a complex and alluring stone fruit palate. $15.50104 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingROSÉ La Curio The Original Zin McLaren Vale Primitivo5 TASTED 2010 HHHH1/21 AWARDED Earthy licorice aromas with a lift of rose petals. Spicy oak-drivenA difficult vintage for this style palate but balanced by the porty/where the fruit quality didn’t fruit cake-like fruit. Long and silkycome up to expectations. smooth in the mouth. $21 La Curio New WorldBlackbilly McLaren Order McLaren ValeVale Tempranillo Sangiovese 2010 HHHHRosado 2011 HHH A strong and rich earthy/savourySpicy strawberry bouquet and nose with a warm, fuller-stylefull-flavoured, cherry/berry palate full of spicy flavours and apalate with good tannins. $18 drying framework of tannins. $21OTHER Pertaringa McLaren ValeRED VARIETALS Aglianico 2010 HHHH& BLENDS Complex assembly of raspberry, rhubarb and earthy26 TASTED aromas on the nose and a light bodied, meaty palate with firm,19 AWARDED ripe tannins. $30Very solid class with lots tolike. “The best stood out hereshowing great respect for thevariety,” noted one judge. Fat ‘n Skinny Picker’s Choice McLaren Vale Red 2009 HHHH Attractive fruit cake-like aromas with a nice, big, smoky oak lift. The powerful tannic palate is absolutely packed with flavour. $14Rusticana Langhorne Hand Crafted by GeoffCreek Durif 2009 HHHHH Hardy Langhorne CreekA massive brute of a wine Graciano 2009 HHHHbrimming over with earthy, Earthy, meaty nose with a hintplumy fruit and chocolaty oak, of strawberries. Sweet andand offering a huge mouthful savoury palate - quite warmof tannins. Interesting lift to the with some well-handled acidnose and bold, ripe flavours. $30 and firm tannins. $22Pertaringa McLaren Vale Dowie Doole G & TTannat 2009 HHHHH McLaren Vale GarnachaVery rural and brambly with Tempranillo 2011 HHH1/2licorice and fleshy blue fruits Beetroot and beetroot charactersaromas showing an oaky lift. on the nose with earthy, rhubarbLoads of varietal fruit on the flavours, green pepper notes andfirm, drying, tannic palate with silky tannins. $25new oak adding complexity. $30 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 105

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUPaxton McLaren Vale d’Arenberg The Twenty Vinrock McLaren ValeTempranillo 2010 HHH1/2 Eight Road McLaren Vale Grenache ShirazGamey nose with spicy plum Mourvedre 2009 HHH Mataro 2011 HHHnotes and cigar box oak leading Rich, spicy/earthy fruit, great Deep purple wine with licoriceyto a big, rich, fruit cake palate oak, firm tannins and lots of aromas and nicely structured,wrapped in firm tannins. $25 CD acid. $40 vibrant and complex palate. $25Hastwell & Lightfoot Rusticana Langhorne La Curio The Nubile Wirra WirraMcLaren Vale Cabernet Creek Zinfandel 2009 HHH McLaren Vale Grenache The AbsconderFranc 2009 HHH1/2 Berry compote with leathery Shiraz 2010 HHH McLaren Vale GrenacheComplex, meaty nose with a notes. “A big, bold, Zin style Developed gamey bouquet and 2010 HHHH1/2pretty herbal lift and a mature, that’s done well!” $25 savoury palate with fine grainy A gorgeous, savoury, complexslightly warm palate with a tannins and smoky oak. $21 and brooding style with licorice-long, savoury finish. $23 Hastwell & Lightfoot like aromas and rhubarb andd’Arenberg The Sticks McLaren Vale Tempranillo Di Fabio Estate McLaren cherry flavours on a weighty,& Stones McLaren Vale 2008 HHH Vale Grenache Shiraz well-structured and nicely-2008 HHH1/2 A big style with simple, sweet, 2010 HHH balanced palate. $65A mixed bag of fruit aromas licorice-like fruit and powerful Licorice nose with herbal touches Rosemount Estate Nurseryand a generously weighted drying tannins. $23 and complex, well-structured, Project McLaren Valepalate made in a lovely, rich, dark fruit palate. $23.99 Grenache 2010 HHHHold-fashioned style. $32 Pirramimma McLaren Vale A good European style.Rosemount Estate Petit Verdot 2008 HHH Pertaringa McLaren Vale Purple/crimson colour withNursery Project McLaren Toasty, jammy nose and some G.S.M. 2009 HHH licorice and violet aromas andVale Graciano Mataro mouthwatering, earthy/porty A classic blend with toffee a warm, savoury palate withGrenache 2011 HHH flavours. $25 CD aromas and a hot, hot palate soft tannins. $29.99Very complex aromas and rich, with intense fruit flavours. $30 Penny’s Hill Thepowerful, fruit-cake-like palate GRENACHE Experiment McLaren Valewith firm tannic spine. $29.99 & BLENDS d’Arenberg The Ironstone Grenache 2010 HHHHMorgan Simpson Pressings McLaren Nutty, caramelly aromas arePlan B McLaren Vale 10 TASTED Vale Grenache Shiraz followed by a big, bold, blackMataro 2010 HHH 8 AWARDED Mourvedre 2008 HHH cherry and licorice-like palatePlums mingle with earthy, spicy An intense, well-balanced wine with some very well-integratedaromas. Nice chocolaty palate Very solid class with great with spice infused fruit and tannins. $30with gravelly tannins. $18 blends for the region. supple tannins. $70 The Old Faithful SandhillHand Crafted by Geoff McLaren Vale GrenacheHardy Langhorne Creek Blackbilly McLaren Pirramimma Katunga 2009 HHH1/2Primitivo 2010 HHH Vale Grenache Shiraz McLaren Vale Grenache Rich, vibrant and dense. SmellsSmells of field mushrooms and Mourvedre 2010 HHHH Tannat Shiraz 2007 HHH of nougat and hazelnuts. Lively,cherries with a big, bold palate A beautifully layered and well- A dense, dark and well- layered, licorice/rhubarb palatebordering on porty. $22 focused style with some lovely, structured wine with plenty of has mouthpuckering tannins. $50Vigna Bottin McLaren Vale dark fruit characters showing flavour persistence. $20 CDSangiovese 2010 HHH slightly gamey elements. $20Earthy and gamey on the nose, GRENACHEand complex and savoury on the Rosemount Estate McLarenpalate with firm tannins. $25 Vale G.S.M. 2010 HHHH 17 TASTED Raspberry and licorice on the 7 AWARDED nose and a generous palate with intense juicy fruit, mouth Very solid class with great puckering tannins and drying blends for the region. “Don’t acidity. $34.99 try and make these more than they are,” said one judge.DAY 1 - JUDGES Mario Criado Mark Maxwell Winemaker for Serafino Owner and winemaker Michael Fragos Wines. Formerly of Maxwell Wines. Chief winemaker at winemaker for Boar’s Born and raised in the Chapel Hill winery. Rock, Ben Riggs & Villa McLaren Vale wine Formerly chief winemaker Tinto. Has vintaged region, Mark has been at Tatachilla winery. Dual overseas at Cazal-Viel in making wine since 1982. Bushing King for McLaren France & Golden State Vale’s best wine of show. vintage in California. Winestate winemaker of the Year 2003.106 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingThe Old Faithful Sandhill ADELAIDEMcLaren Vale Grenache2006 HHH1/2 WINEMAKERSA spicy, vibrant varietal with ahint of chocolate - very red in Proudly producing and representing:colour for a six-year-old and notshowing its age at all. $50Paragon McLaren ValeGrenache 2010 HHHDusty, cedary nose; somered berries and dark fruitsand cedary oak on the chewypalate. $22.99Chapel HillMcLaren Vale Bush VineGrenache 2010 HHHToasty, rhubarb aromas with asolid, sweet/sour palate. Juicyand charismatic wine. $35MERLOT & BLENDS Bremerton Tamblyn Please contact us for trade and Langhorne Creek distribution enquiry:5 TASTED Cabernet Shiraz Malbec Nick Haselgrove0 AWARDED Merlot 2010 HHHH [email protected] Meaty, juicy style with spicy, +61 419 383907CABERNET chocolaty aromas. Excellent www.adelaidewinemakers.com.auBLENDS concentration of blackberry fruit and cedary oak flavours and15 TASTED lovely, firm tannins. $1811 AWARDED Wolf Blass Silver Label Langhorne Creek Cabernet“Across the board there would Merlot 2010 HHH1/2be few wines here you could Hints of spices and roses onnot enjoy,” agreed the judges. the nose, and a blackcurrant“It is pleasing to see the lack of palate nicely balanced by theextraction issues that we saw oak and the tannins. $18in the past.” Pertaringa Understudy McLaren Vale CabernetMaxwell Little Demon Petit Verdot 2009 HHH1/2McLaren Vale Cabernet Inky, cassis nose with oakMerlot 2010 HHHH1/2 dominating the palate, forBright, lively, spicy/mocha now, with blackberry fruitbouquet with a slightly minty lurking beneath. Furtherlift. Palate has well-defined cellaring potential. $22tannin profile with ripe Paxton The Guesserblackcurrant fruit characters and McLaren Vale Cabernetsome classy oak. $15 Shiraz 2010 HHH Aromas of blackcurrant andRosemount Estate District spices and lively, spicy palateRelease McLaren Vale with fantastic oak. $15Traditional 2010 HHHH1/2 Dowie Doole SecondComplex varietal aromas - lots Nature McLaren Valeof cassis fruit and vanilla oak Cabernet Shiraz Merlotand a seamless integration 2010 HHHof fruit and oak flavours with A rich, Christmas cake nose andexcellent, firm tannins. Needs long, warming palate. Extractedtwo-three more years. $19.99 but not overdone. $18 Nardone BakerGeoff Merrill McLaren Vale CabernetPimpala Vineyard Merlot 2010 HHHMcLaren Vale Cabernet Reserved, earthy, spicy nose andMerlot 2004 HHHH1/2 spices and prunes on the creamy,A beautifully aged, earthy/ well-balanced palate. $18.95minty cabernet with an earthy,leathery nose and a palatethat’s holding up very well forits age, and still with somegreat tannins. $36 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 107

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUJohn B Glaetzer Black Ingoldby McLaren Pirramimma Stock’s HillStonyfell Cabernet Shiraz Vale Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Cabernet2009 HHH 2010 HHHH Sauvignon 2010 HHHAromas in the jammy spectrum A long, well-balanced and deep Inky black wine with chocolatywith fleshy, porty flavours. Well purple wine with an abundance licorice characters, fine chewybalanced for the style. $26.99 of chocolaty and ripe berry tannins and warming alcohol. $16Geoff Merrill Fleurieu characters and fine, velvety Fern Hill EstateCabernet Shiraz 2008 HHH tannins. $20 McLaren Vale CabernetMinty, mocha nose and nice Sauvignon 2010 HHHfiggy flavours with silky tannins Shingleback Haselgrove Bella Vigna A classic style. Aromas andon a mature palate. $21 The Davey Estate McLaren Vale Cabernet flavours of blackberries and McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHHH red currants. Excellent use ofCABERNET Sauvignon 2010 HHHH The dark chocolaty nose has oak. $17SAUVIGNON “A soft, feminine and very well some subtle mintiness and has Richard Hamilton2011 - 2010 thought out wine,” said one a nicely textured, well-balanced Hut Block McLaren judge. Lovely vibrant red currant/ red fruit palate with fine dusty Vale Cabernet Sauvignon24 TASTED crushed ant aromas and delicate tannins. $25 2010 HHH17 AWARDED touch to the palate. $22.95 Chocolaty licorice nose andA solid class typical of the 2010 The Fox Creek Circle Haselgrove First Cut ripe, vibrant and intense darkvintage which produced more Single Vineyard McLaren McLaren Vale Cabernet berry palate. $18.50mid-weight wines with bright Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Penny’s Hill Edwardsvibrant fruit. “There were more 2010 HHHH Deep purple wine with lifted Road McLaren Valehere that were ripe rather than A pretty nose with subtle dark berry fruit, dusty oak Cabernet Sauvignongreen”, said one of the panel. chocolaty/licorice aromas and and chewy tannins. Has good 2010 HHH well-structured and complex length and texture. $18 Smells of eucalypt andVasarelli Family Reserve palate that’s quite savoury with cranberries. A flavoursomeMcLaren Vale Cabernet firm tannic spine. $28 Paxton The Vale McLaren palate with firm tannins andSauvignon 2010 HHHHH Vale Cabernet Sauvignon good acidity. $24A well-rounded, nicely structured 2010 HHH1/2 Songlines Estates Leylineswine - inky black in colour, lifted An excellent food wine with McLaren Vale Cabernetspicy nose and silky smooth dark, rich, fruit characters and Sauvignon 2010 HHHtannins and a long, flavoursome bold, chewy tannins. Offers good Lovely, rich, dark, fruitpalate with excellent, well- cellaring potential. 5+ $20 characters with fine chewyhandled, oak. $24.99 tannins and slightly warming Anvers Langhorne alcohol. $25 Creek Cabernet Mitolo Jester McLaren Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Vale Cabernet Sauvignon A juicy McLaren Vale style. 2010 HHH Smells of licorice and spice with A good, strong, earthy style with nicely layered dark fruit/spicy fine tannins, red/black berries palate showing firm tannins. $28 and warming alcohol. $28 Parson’s Paddock Shottesbrooke Langhorne Creek Cabernet Reserve Punch Sauvignon 2010 HHH McLaren Vale Cabernet Spicy marzipan-like characters Sauvignon 2010 HHH on the nose with good intensity Dusty oak aromas and hint of of oaky/fruit flavours. $14.95 bay leaves. Nice mouthfeel and texture to the palate. $44.99DAY 2 - JUDGES Shane Harris David Fleming Winemaker for Pertaringa Winemaker for Di Genders Wines. Formerly winemaker at Scarpantoni Wines. Winemaker for McLaren Vintners. Previously Has vintaged in California, Genders McLaren Park winemaker with Classic Italy, Canada and Hungary. Wines. Three years McLaren Wines for the past Formerly winemaker as associate judge four years. Has also completed at Seppeltsfield in the at the Adelaide Wine vintages in Queensland and Barossa Valley. Show. Seven years’ Victoria. Completed the AWRI winemaking experience advanced sensory course with Tolley’s Wines. and has associate judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show.108 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingLavina Grand Royale AntipodeanMcLaren Vale Cabernet Vintners Tilly DevineSauvignon 2010 HHH McLaren Vale CabernetGood concentration of varietal Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2fruit with nice spicy notes and a Interesting wine - smells andlick of oak. $120 tasted of blackberries and Five Spices with marzipan-CABERNET like elements. Needs moreSAUVIGNON time. 5+ $282009 & OLDER Scarpantoni Brothers’26 TASTED Block McLaren Vale13 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2A mixed group with some Cassis and chocolate on thevery good varietal wines with nose with attractive, freshgood vintage variations. “The varietal fruit flavours and nicelybest wines showed definition textured, savoury tannins. $30and were a touch savoury instructure,” said one judge. Genders Duncan Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2Lake Breeze Langhorne A simple, nicely aged wineCreek Cabernet between sweet and savoury withSauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 good concentration and focus ofExcellent, delicious, deep spicy/earthy elements. $50purple cabernet with brooding,alluring blackcurrant fruit Maxwell Lime Cavelayered with chocolaty/licorice McLaren Vale Cabernetcharacters and wrapped in firm, Sauvignon 2009 HHHchewy tannins. $24 Spiced, red fruit nose. Good complexity to the well- rounded, dark fruit and high acid palate. $40 Wirra Wirra The Angelus McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Inky purple wine with aromas of coffee and licorice and well- structured, mocha palate. $65 Dyson Wines Premium Reserve Clarice Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Classic “crushed ant” characters on the nose and syrupy rich in the mouth. $22 CDHastwell & LightfootMcLaren Vale CabernetSauvignon 2008 HHHHA well-made, commercialstyle of cabernet with densemeaty aromas and intense,dark currant flavours on thepowerful palate. $23Pirramimma Step Rd Langhorne CreekMcLaren Vale Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 2007 HHHLayers of dark berry fruits Nicely aged cabernet still vibrantand chocolate on both nose with well-rounded licorice andand palate. A long, well- current elements. $19.99balanced palate with fine, Tintara McLarenchewy tannins. $25 CD Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Herbs and licorice on the nose and a chunky, bright red fruit palate. $24.99 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 109

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUAngus Plains Estate PJ’s d’Arenberg The Laughing Hardys Oomoo McLaren Wirra WirraLanghorne Creek Cabernet Magpie McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH Catapult McLaren ValeSauvignon 2008 HHH Shiraz Viognier 2008 HHHH Confectionery berry aromas Shiraz 2010 HHHHMedium weight wine - plenty Earthy, savoury bouquet with with a balanced, spicy fruit Gamey bouquet with elementsof oak, spicy varietal fruit and a touch of spice. Powerful and palate. $18.99 of plums and cherries with awell-rounded tannins. $25 fleshy in the mouth with “fruit generous palate that has well- from a good vineyard”, and SHIRAZ 2010 integrated elements of fruit andd’Arenberg The good use of oak. $32 $25 & UNDER tannins. $24Coppermine Road Gemtree BloodstoneMcLaren Vale Cabernet Metala Langhorne 31 TASTED McLaren ValeSauvignon 2008 HHH Creek Shiraz Cabernet 22 AWARDED Shiraz 2010 HHHHSlightly greenish varietal fruit 2010 HHHH A very solid and consistent A light, dry wine with somecharacters, nutty oak and lively A lovely, clean, clear, fruit- class. “There were some lovely, bacon bone characters on thetannins here. $70 driven style with nice touches pure, chunky, shiraz flavours,” nose and intense, rich, savoury of licorice and chocolate. The noted one of the judges. flavours layered with fineSHIRAZ BLENDS palate has good weight and “A bloody good vintage,” chewy tannins. $18 texture. $18 said another. “With lots of Dowie Doole McLaren20 TASTED well-balanced, wholesome Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH11 AWARDED Fox Creek McLaren wines well worth ageing.” Deep purple wine with a subtle Vale Shiraz Grenache Allspice-like bouquet. ElegantA more mixed group than the Mourvedre 2010 HHH Leconfield McLaren Vale palate with excellent balancecabernet blends with the 2010s Bonox/blackberry nose, spicy, Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 and a long, fine and lingeringbeing consistently good and fleshy, fruit palate with high A perfectly balanced, deep finish. $25the other vintages having some acid and warm alcohol. $17.50 purple shiraz that smells of Vinrock McLaren Valejewels among them. liqueur cherries and spices. The Shiraz 2010 HHHH Paxton AAA McLaren Vale palate is luscious with bright An intense, old-fashioned styleLake Breeze Bernoota Shiraz Grenache 2010 HHH and vibrant varietal fruit with of shiraz with a Christmas cake-Langhorne Creek Shiraz A lovely earthy/leafy style with long, chewy tannins. $24.95 like nose and rich, luscious,Cabernet 2009 HHHHH good balance between fruit, dark fruit palate filled withMasses of oak but also there’s oak and tannins. $20 Robert Oatley McLaren chewy tannins. $25an abundance of fruit to match. Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH Shottesbrooke McLarenHas peppery, spicy aromas and Fox Creek Lovely licorice, herbal and Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2rich, fruity/mocha palate with Shadow’s Run McLaren stewed plum aromas and A well-rounded, juicy, medium-great tannins. Best hold for Vale Shiraz Cabernet well-rounded, nicely-structured weight wine with dark fruit,another three-five years. $20 Sauvignon 2010 HHH palate with a complex licorice notes, generous Lots of oak sitting on top of concentration of flavour. $23.99 tannins and cedary oak. $19.99Maxwell Four Roads some very good fruit. Will settle Aramis Vineyards McLarenMcLaren Vale Shiraz nicely with time. $22.50 Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2Grenache 2010 HHHH1/2 Delicious, poised shirazBeautifully perfumed nose Meritus McLaren Vale that’s full of plums and darkwith an earthy character and a Shiraz Grenache 2010 HHH cherry fruit layered withgenerous mouthfeel to the palate, Spicy, gamey nose and long, savoury tannins and tight acidwith excellent density of oak and savoury palate with great oak backbone. $20fruit flavours and long finish. $18 and a spicy lift. $25 Ingoldby McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2Penny’s Hill The Killibinbin Blend A firm and friendly wine withSpecialized McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek Shiraz lovely, chunky, mulberry varietalShiraz Cabernet Merlot Cabernet 2008 HHH fruit, excellent use of oak, savoury2010 HHHH A very ripe, porty style with tannins and some heat. $20An attractive complexity of earthiness on the nose and Paxton MV McLaren Valesweet fruit and earthy spices soft, prune flavours. $25 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2on the nose and echoed on the Slight herbal note to the noserich, savoury palate that shows SHIRAZ 2011 and lively, fleshy palate loadednice texture. $22 with dark fruits and showing 5 TASTED good use of oak. $20Fox Creek JSM McLaren 2 AWARDEDVale Shiraz CabernetSauvignon Cabernet Franc Early beginnings here for the2009 HHHH new vintage. A couple of niceSmells of fruit cake with a drinks for those who like theirlovely, peppery, spicy lift. The wines young and fruit driven.palate is big and complex withslightly smoky and savoury Red Knot Byflavours. $22.50 Shingleback McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH Peppery, meaty nose and simple tannic palate - young and fruity. Needs time. $14.95110 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingBullant Langhorne Creek Songlines EstatesShiraz 2010 HHH Leylines McLaren ValeNose of dark berries and licorice Shiraz 2010 HHHwith similar characters echoed An “honest and reliable wine”.on the long, fine palate. $15 All dark plums, licorice andMr Riggs Maraschino cherries. $25The Truant McLaren ValeShiraz 2010 HHH SHIRAZ/SYRAHA chunky, rich shiraz. Dense, 2010brooding aromas and intense, OVER $25tannic palate. Will settle withtime. $17 25 TASTEDThomas Goss McLaren 23 AWARDEDVale Shiraz 2010 HHHFruit cake blends with soy “A great class,” agreed thesauce on the nose and has a judges, reflecting an excellentpalate full of intense, generous vintage for the region andflavours. $17 great attention to detail byG. Patritti & Co both the growers and theOld Gate McLaren Vale winemakers. “WonderfulShiraz 2010 HHH focus here,” said one judge.A powerful wine with goodfruit, a hint oak and somedrying, grippy tannins. $18Haselgrove First CutMcLaren ValeShiraz 2010 HHHA soft, easy-drinking style withdark spectrum of fruit and finelayered tannins. $18Richard Hamilton McLaren G. Patritti & Co JPBVale Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHHHA very pretty wine with dark Big and bold and veryfruit, tight acid and excellent flavoursome. “Glorious blackweight and texture. $18.50 mud,” suggested one judge.Blackbilly McLaren Vale Smoky bacon-like oak aromasShiraz 2010 HHH on top of the fruit. Palate hasInky, cassis aromas and a well- bucket loads of both elegantrounded and somewhat feisty, and generous flavours. $45black berry palate. $20Penny’s Hill CrackingBlack McLaren ValeShiraz 2010 HHHFunky, wild ferment aromas andripe and bright in the mouthwith firm, chewy tannins. $22Shingleback The DaveyEstate McLaren ValeShiraz 2010 HHHA classic McLaren Vale shiraz.Savoury, meaty aromas andnice balance of berry/plumflavours. $22.95Oenotria Vintners Land of Wirra Wirra RSW McLarenthe Vines McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHHHShiraz 2010 HHH Long, bold and seamless shirazA long, well-structured wine with with great earthy, spicy aromaslovely richness of sweet plums and a full-bodied, nutty/oakywrapped in firm tannins. $22.99 palate with a lovely, creamyGemtree Uncut McLaren mouthfeel. Has excellentVale Shiraz 2010 HHH texture and great flavourElements of maple syrup on persistence. $65the nose and a simple, syrupy,blackberry palate. $25 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 111

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUAramis Vineyards Single Shottesbrooke Reserve Rosemount EstateVineyard McLaren Vale Eliza McLaren Vale Shiraz Balmoral McLaren ValeShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 Syrah 2010 HHHHDense chocolaty nose with Nose has good concentration Bold, inky style, smelling ofsubdued oak aromas. A of inky, black fruit. The massive brambles and autumn leavespowerful “masculine” palate palate is “racy and slick”, with some powerful oak andwith gravely dark fruit flavours according to one judge with fruit flavours and nice nuttyshowing a good peppery/spicy well-focused, chocolaty/black complexity. $74.99lift. Lovely tannin profile. $28 fruit flavours. $44.99Heartland Directors’ Cut Dowie Doole Wirra Wirra McLaren Vale IIILanghorne Creek Shiraz Reserve McLaren Vale Woodhenge McLaren Vale Associates Reserve Squid2010 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Ink Shiraz 2010 HHHHA seamless, savoury wine - Another rich, full-bodied shiraz Lovely lift of chocolate, violetssmells of peat and chargrilled with a big hit of inky, tar-like and black fruit characters onbeetroot with a complex, fleshy aromas showing peppery nose and in the mouth. “Inpalate that has meaty, peppery elements. Palate has great another two years this will beflavours and a big hit of oak. $32 concentration and drive. Hold great” said one judge. $30Penny’s Hill for 10 years! $60Skeleton Key McLaren Penny’s HillVale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Footprint McLaren ValeSmells of Cherry Ripe with earthy Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2highlights and a big, powerful, Big, hot, plum pudding of asavoury palate with lots of chewy shiraz with some massivetannins and great oak. Cellar it - oak well matched by equallyshould mature well. $35 massive amount of fruit,Mr Riggs McLaren Vale intense peppery characters andShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 some great tannins. $65“Poised on the verge betweenGoliath and delicate”, suggested Some uncomplicated, earthy/one judge. Earthy, minty aromas fruit aromas with a palate thatand complex, savoury palate with is complex and interestinga long, grippy, tannic end. $50 offering rich oak and fruit flavours. Cellar it. 5+ $55112 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingChapel Hill Shingleback Shottesbrooke Single Bremerton Old AdamThe Vicar McLaren Vale Unedited McLaren Vale Vineyard McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek ShirazShiraz 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH 2009 HHHHHLovely, juicy, dark varietal fruit Confectionery fruit fragrances Perfumed confectionery Dark, brooding, chocolatysupported by some great oak. and lovely, inky, black jelly bean aromas and pleasant, full- aromas with a peppery lift andVery clean and well focused flavours showing a pleasant, bodied, fruity palate. $29.99 some peppermint notes. Thefor a big wine. Will improve spicy element. $69.95 mint carries through to thefurther. $75 McLaren Vale III Associates Normans McLaren Vale earthy/spicy palate. Lovely oak;Dowie Doole Reserve Giant Squid Ink Old Vine Shiraz 2010 HHH respectful of the fruit it framesCali Road McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Red fruit bouquet with leafy and balances. $50Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 An aromatic style with pretty, elements; similar palate with justInteresting inky, licorice leafy/spicy/peppery aromas a hint of earth and spice. $30characters on the nose and and a warm and fleshy, well-a warm, oaky palate with balanced oak/fruit palate. $216 Paxton Quandongplenty of acid and some lovely Anvers McLaren Vale Farm McLaren Valetannins. $35 Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHFox Creek Soft and earthy with subtle A clean simple savoury/spicyMcLaren Vale Old Vine boot polish nose and simple, shiraz well balanced by goodShiraz 2010 HHH1/2 tannic palate; some forest floor level of tannins. $30A huge wine - complex and notes. $28complete with earthy, beetroot- Fox Creek SHIRAZ 2009like aromas and a thick, gamey/ Short Row McLaren Valesavoury palate. $50 Shiraz 2010 HHH 32 TASTEDRichard Hamilton Vibrant, inky, chocolaty nose 25 AWARDEDCenturion McLaren Vale and big, rich, mature, sweet/Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 sour palate. $28.50 Quite a strong class but someA pleasant spicy varietal that’s tough tannins with some wineslong, rich and complex and needing further ageing. Othersloaded with sweet, ripe fruit showed some prematureand some great tannins. $65 development. Intense, but variable results but the best are great examples of the region. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 113

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUWyndham Estate George Lake Breeze ShinglebackWyndham Founder’s Section 54 Langhorne Haycutters McLaren ValeReserve Langhorne Creek Creek Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 A very well-made wine with Spicy berry nose with a pepperySweet, fruity and floral on the delightful fragrances of wild lift and a soft medium bodiednose - hints of lavender and rose flowers and violets. Lovely light palate with good balance of fruitpetals. More of the lavender on and shade to this sweet and and tannin. $16.95the palate layered with plums, savoury palate. $24cherries and chocolate. Quite Morgan Simpson Basket Brick Kiln McLaren Valecomplex. $21.59 Press McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHPertaringa Over 2009 HHH1/2 Brooding, savoury/spicy bouquetthe Top McLaren Vale Olive-like aromas with hints and slightly tannic palate withShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 of the sea but in the mouth it good fruit/oak balance. $25Lifted tarry bitumous nose and is sweet and fruity with lovelya monolithic palate. It’s hot and soft tannins. $22 Pirramimma McLaren Valeoaky for now but will improve Pertaringa Shiraz 2009 HHHwith cellaring. Exhibits good Undercover McLaren Vale Hints of rose petals on anregional characters. $39 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 otherwise savoury nose with a Savoury/leathery/bacony nose long, ”wild” palate. $25 CDPaxton Jones The Gate By Shingleback and a firm and fleshy palateBlock McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz offering what one judge called Minnow Creek McLarenShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2 “Good clean fun!”. $22 Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHA lovely, perfumed style. “Great A big, in your face, lift of James Haselgrove Developed, earthy style withwith strong fish,” thought attractive coffee grounds, red/ Futures McLaren Vale savory, spicy and smokyone judge. Has both ripe and black fruits and spicy aromas. Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 elements. $28underripe tones. Complex and Lovely palate - dominated by Nose is bright and fresh andcomplete. Medium weight but the oak for now but will settle smelling of cherries and spice. Scarpantonipowerful. $37 with cellaring. $34.95 Lean palate with spicy, blackberry Block 3 McLaren ValeKimbolton The Rifleman Tapestry flavours. Lots of oak. $40 Shiraz 2009 HHHLanghorne Creek Shiraz The Vincent McLaren Vale Maxwell Ellen Elegant, seductive and leaner2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Street McLaren Vale style with dried flower and redA dense, old-school style, An awesome, powerful wine Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 fruit characters. $30smells like a cherry cola. brimming over with flavour. Inky, lavender bouquetSeamless blackberry/eucalypt Complex leathery, peppermint with resinous lift. Excellent John’s Blend No. 15palate. Great length and power. bouquet. Seamless, highly concentration of meaty/savoury Margarete’s ShirazWarming alcohol but it’s in wound, aristocratic palate. flavours without alcohol heat. $40 2009 HHHbalance. $42 Needs time. $50 Lavina Grand A rich, full-bodied shiraz with G. Patritti & Co Royale McLaren Vale a Cherry Ripe nose and tasty, Old Gate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 sweet/sour palate. $34 Shiraz 2009 HHHH A big style that, according to the Incredible lift of violets judges, will become a classic Antipodean Vintners Tilly and spices on the savoury, after cellaring. Lots of black Devine McLaren Vale chocolaty nose followed by an olives and peppery notes. $120 Shiraz 2009 HHH intense, savoury palate with d’Arenberg A fresh lively style of shiraz earthy/meaty flavours. $18 The Footbolt McLaren with slightly porty-like fruit and Vale Shiraz 2009 HHH big savoury tannins. $35 STAR RATINGS  Very promising savoury style - quite Italian-like. Needs food Shingleback D BlockThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of and time in the cellar! $21.95 Reserve McLaren Valeexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Bremerton Selkirk Shiraz 2009 HHHAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Langhorne Creek Shiraz Some simple berry fruitprofessionals and are compared in peer 2009 HHH characters with musky notes andclasses by three judges. A well-structured, old-school an elegant tannic profile. $54.95CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, style of shiraz that’s maturinga major mail-order business. very nicely. $22 SHIRAZCD Cellar door price. Tintara McLaren Vale 2008 & OLDERCDO Cellar door only. Shiraz 2009 HHHSO Sold out. Confectionery berry nose and 32 TASTED$N/A Price not available at time of printing. earthy, savoury palate but has a 17 AWARDED sweet edge to it. $24.99 Contact information pg 160. Quite a consistent line-up of ‘07s; good ‘08s were harder to RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). find. “It’s a fine line between generous fruit weight and soft tannins and wines that lacked freshness or framework of oak and acids to hold the wines together. But some great drink now wines.”114 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

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McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEU McLaren Vale Grape Wine & TourismWINERIES A B C D E F GH I J K LMNOP QR S T U V 1Australian Boutique Wines O15 2 The “Fleurieu Way”Battle of Bosworth* L24 3 Tourist Route 60Bent Creek N16 4 Shiraz TrailBraydun Hill Vineyard* J8 5 Dirt RoadChalk Hill Wines* K17 6 Railway LineChapel Hill Wines L11 7 Air eldChateau Reynella K1 8 Public LibraryCoriole Vineyards & Coterie L13 9d’Arenberg / d’Arry’s Verandah K15 10 Map Updated August 2009Dennis Wines L18 11Dogridge Wines Q15 12Dowie Doole L19 13Foggo Wines M17 14Fox Creek Wines K22 15Gemtree Vineyards L19 16Geo Merrill Wines M2 17Graham Stevens Wines P15 18Halifax Wines * M23 19Hardy Tintara J17 20Ho mann’s Wines P15 21Hugh Hamilton Wines L20 22Hugo Wines R15 23Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery Q17 24Kay Bros Amery Vineyard M13 25Lavina Wines J17 26Lazy Ballerina U24 27Lecon eld Wines K20 28Lloyd Brothers J15 29Maximus Wines* N16 30Maxwell Wines K16 31McLaren Vale Premium Wines J17 32Middlebrook Estate O18 33Noon Winery (cellar door seasonal) N21Olivers Tarranga Vineyards J14Oliverhill Winery J13Oxenberry Farm Wines K18Paper Eagle / Ekhidna Wines J18Parri Estate P16Paxton Wines H15Penny’s Hill & Mr. Riggs K22Pertaringa Wines O21Possums Vineyard* L23Potters Clay* L20Primo Estate L12Rosemount Estate L11Samuels Gorge O17Scarpantoni Estate Wines L18Sera no Wines J13Settlement Wines I16Shingleback Wine Q15Shottesbrooke Winery K16Tapestry Wines M19Wirra Wirra Vineyards P14Woodstock Winery & Coterie P14Yangarra Estate Vineyard J30Zimmermann Wines* Cellar Door by appointment onlyACCOMMODATION FOOD ATTRACTIONS3 Divas I17 3 Monkey’s Fine Food M26 Adelaide Biplanes F27Amande B&B H22 Awganix J17 Bella Cosa Gallery N17Amande at the Beach D19 Blessed Cheese J17 McLaren Vale Lavender M13Aunt Amandas Cottage U11 Christina’s on High M26 Medlow Confectionery J17Beachwoods Eco Tourist Park D22 d’Arry’s Verandah K15 & Fruchocs Showcase Q28Bellevue Bed & Breakfast J17 FINO L25 Magpie Springs L26Bethany Chapel B&B M20 Ho mann’s Currant Shed P15 Studio/Gallery/Cellar Door* N20Black Rabbit Cottage R16 Market 190 J17 Minko Wines K17Blushing Grape B&B K26 Middlebrook Estate O18 Red PolesChristina’s Cottage M26 Russell’s Pizza M26 The Chocolate BoxGui Al Mare D14 The Barn J16Hawthorne of Willunga B&B L25 The Kitchen Door Restaurant K22Ingleburn Homestead K22 at Penny’s Hill & Mr Riggs J15Linger Longer Vineyard H24 The Olive Grove D33Lot 7 Cottage N16 The Victory Hotel P14McLaren Vale Bed & Breakfast L19 Woodstock Winery & CoterieMcLaren Vale Lakeside Caravan Park K17McLaren Vale Motel & Apartments I17 McLaren Vale Grape Wine & TourismPeppermint Farm Cottage B&B N21 T. 08 8323 8999Rosebank Studio L18 E. [email protected] Vales B&B J16 www.mclarenvale.infoThe Blue Grape J30The Victory Hotel D33The Vintage I17Villa Grenache N16Wine & Roses I17116 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

Rosemount Estate Regional Paper Eagle regional tastingShowcase McLaren Vale Linchpin McLaren ValeShiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH ServiceLovely fresh lift of blackberries Spicy, earthy and smoky on the to savouron the nose and full-bodied nose and developed peppery/palate with great savoury prune palate. $40 CD (and a verybackbone and nicely focused Rosemount Estate District fine nose).varietal flavours. $19.99 Release McLaren ValePirramimma Shiraz 2008 HHHStock’s Hill McLaren Vale Powerful, savoury, meaty aromasShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 and a big oaky and tannic palate.Plums and spices lift off the Needs time. $19.95nose and the generous, plum 2 mates McLaren Valepalate has some nutty, earthy Shiraz 2008 HHHnotes with soft tannins. $16 CD Very approachable wineReynella Basket with simple juicy fruits, nicePressed McLaren Vale spiciness and long, tannicShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 finish. $27.50Big, rich, spicy wine with fleshy Angus Plains Estateplum/blackberry fruit; nice Special Reserve Langhornelicorice notes. Good level of Creek Shiraz 2008 HHHtannins. Just needs time. $51.99 A spicy shiraz with clean,Karanto 7A Langhorne bramble-like fruit seamlesslyCreek Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 balanced by the oak. $39.95Blackberry aromas with a goodoaky lift. Long and sweet in themouth and quite hot from thealcohol. Needs time. $22The Old Faithful Café Step Rd Langhorne CreekBlock McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHShiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Earthy, leathery nose andLeathery, bottle-age characters flavoursome, spicy palate withon the nose and palate with good length of tannins. $19.99good length and depth of soft, Wolf Blassrich, jammy fruit. $50 Grey Label McLaren ValeJacob’s Creek Shiraz 2008 HHHSt Hugo McLaren Vale Silky, smooth style withShiraz 2006 HHH1/2 savoury fruit, licorice notes,Attractive earthy style of shiraz big oak and drying tannins. $40with a spicy lift to the nose and Geoff Merrill Jacko’sshowing good tannin length on Blend McLaren Valethe palate. $38.99 Shiraz 2007 HHHRockBare Burvill McLaren Good lift of fresh varietal aromasVale Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 and some nice, sweet, shirazA pretty smart wine - still has fruit depth to the palate. $28freshness with a pepperybouquet and nice palate lengthwith a long, gamey finish. $39.95 The Old Faithful Top of Linking Australia with all coasts the Hill McLaren Vale of North and South America; Shiraz 2007 HHH the Caribbean; Northern Europe Subtle charcoal-like aromas and and the Mediterranean; Asia; spicy, tannic palate with attractive India; Pakistan; New Zealand bottle age developing. $50 and the Pacific Islands.Beresford The Old Faithful Café For more, visit us atHighwood McLaren Vale Block McLaren Vale www.hamburgsud.comShiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2006 HHHA pleasant dry red with spicy, Elegant and interesting wine. No matter what.earthy notes, soft tannins and Smells of the sea with earthy,long, savoury aftertaste. $14.99 bottle-aged flavours. $50 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 117

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINTASMANIAENCOURAGING salmon or locally raised Scotch fillet). CELEBRATE SUMMERWINE TOURISM The latest innovation at the cellar door is organised winery tours, tastings and a few THE hugely popular MONA complex hasAT A time when much of the Australian nibbles held each Sunday at 11am. The a new attraction – a market held everywine industry is going through tough times, price is $25 a head inclusive of tasting Saturday afternoon during summer. Theit is great to see two Tamar Valley Wine wines and food after the tour, with a 15 per market celebrates local craft, design andRoute properties making huge strides cent discount for wine club members and produce – and also features workshopswith new facilities that will encourage wine a cost of just $15 for those with Sunday and live music performances curated bytourism to Tasmania. The unveiling of the lunch bookings. Josef Chromy winery and former Violent Femmes founding membernew $5 million Josef Chromy Restaurant cellar door, 370 Relbia Rd, Relbia, open Brian Ritchie. Created by MONA ownerand Function Centre at Relbia and the seven days a week 10am-5pm; phone David Walsh’s partner, Kirsha Kaechele,imminent opening of the new Velo cafe (03) 6335 8700. www.josefchromy.com.au.and cellar door at Legana are both good the market is aimed at offering a relaxednews for visitors. The contemporary TASTE OF TASSIE environment in which food loversextension at Josef Chromy was built at can gather to find ripe soft cheeses,the rear of the existing 1880s homestead IF YOU want a taste of the real Tasmania, Japanese green tea, homemade iceon the Relbia property to house the new the Federal Group is doing a great job of cream, ethically-produced and expertlyfunction centre. “While it is a modern promoting Tasmanian wines and beers to cured meats and local fresh vegetableaddition to the Josef Chromy cellar door interstate and international tourists in its and fruit. The market is at MONA Plaza,and cafe, the function centre is not visible Pure Tasmania properties. The wine lists at MONA, 655 Main Rd, Berriedale, and willwhen approaching from the front garden, both Cradle Mountain Chateau and Strahan resume next summer.so visitors still experience the old world Village are heavily weighted towards cool-charm of the homestead when walking climate Tasmanian wines – and not justin past the 100-year-old oak trees in the the usual suspects. Visitors are given thepicnic grounds,” said Chromy CEO Dean opportunity to sample wines from smallerCocker. The renovated cellar door and labels, including Milton, Sharman, Velo,cafe features a modern tasting bar andcafe area with a passage leading past Pooley, Relbia Estate, Barringwood Park,an open kitchen into the new restaurant Holm Oak, Two Bud Spur and Leaningand function centre. The complex also Church that they may not come across inincludes a barrel room and micro winery bottle shops on the mainland. It’s also goodwhere short winemaking courses will be to see that Cradle Mountain Chateau offersheld; space for larger functions both inside a daily tasting of boutique Tasmanian beersand out, with extensive decks on three and local produce, and Strahan Village’ssides; movable glass walls and break out View 42 features daily wine and cheeserooms to accommodate smaller functions, matchings. www.puretasmania.com.au.conferences and seminars, an elevatedstage and two grass amphitheatres – onefor 800 people located at the back of thenew facility and the existing amphitheatrefor 6000 people where A Day on the Greenconcerts are held. The cooler months area good time to visit, with an open log fireand views of the surrounding vineyardsand landscaped gardens making thehomestead a welcoming place to lingerover lunch. The menu offers light lunches,gourmet platters and the chef’s specialties(think dishes like seasonal risotto, twice-cooked pork belly, slow-baked Tasmanian118 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

travelbriefsPERFECT BASE FINDING HARMONY EURO VIBETHE Tamar Valley Wine Route has been named LOOKING for somewhere to detox, or simply WITH a Provence meets Tuscany vibe,as one of the best in the world – and it is still wind down, after visiting the cellar doors of the Villa Howden is a new luxury retreat onrelatively undiscovered by the masses. While Huon Valley and d’Entrecasteaux Channel? the shores of North West Bay. Boastingaccommodation among the vines is limited, A delightful alternative spa set in bushland beautifully manicured gardens and lovelythe good news is that Launceston, Tasmania’s south of Hobart might fit the bill. Harmony Hill, suites, Villa Howden is just 20 minutes southsecond city, is just a few minutes’ drive from a luxurious, Asian-themed, wellness retreat of Hobart on the way to the Huon Valleyseveral of the stand-out wineries. The perfect offers one, three, five and 10-day programs tourist route. With just 10 beautifully presentedbase from which to explore both the Tamar and treatments from specialists in iridology, suites, Villa Howden offers genuine boutiqueand Launceston’s attractions is TwoFourTwo, kinesiology, Ayurvedic medicine, chi energy accommodation – and has its own cocktail bar,a collection of extremely chic, self-catering healing, lymphatic drainage and nutrition. A piano bar and guest lounge. Local produceapartments that aim to showcase the best range of 60 and 90-minute massages, body and wines are a speciality. Afternoon high teasof Tasmanian boutique wines, local art and at weekends have proven particularly popular.contemporary furniture design. Nestled in the wraps and facials are also on the menu for Villa Howden, 77 Howden Rd, Howden; phoneheart of the Charles St strip, dotted with cafes, those with limited time. Resident therapists (03) 6267 1161. www.villahowden.com.restaurants, a patisserie and deli all within a Matthew and Julie Sajomon worked at theblock, TwoFourTwo offers peace and quiet but world-famous Ananda Spa in the Himalayas NEW HOTSPOTis just a stroll away from Launceston CBD. The and are both Ayurvedic practitioners. Co-accommodation manages the difficult trick of owner Ami Nakamura says the facility, which HOBART has a new night-time hotspot, tinybeing both stylish and comfortable and has has comfortable onsite accommodation, wine bar Sidecar, which opened in Aprilbeen furnished by designer Alan Livermore, focuses on alternative therapies to create a just around the corner from ultra-trendywho runs the complex with his wife Katie, a holistic health experience. She offers yoga, tai eatery, Garagistes, which is under the samefont of knowledge on all things local. Choose chi and meditation workshops in her extensive ownership. Sidecar has only seats and willfrom three apartments or a fully self-contained menu of programs. Harmony Hill is set on concentrate on boutique, largely “natural”townhouse, all thoughtfully equipped and 9.5ha, is less than half an hour from Hobart wine with a simple bar menu featuring disheseach with its own selection of local wines. and has five spa treatment rooms designed such as charcuterie plates. It is the perfectThe Studio and The Terrace are one-bedroom by Nakamura using Hexagon Feng Shui place to wait for a slot at popular no-bookingsapartments, while The Bakehouse and principals. The spa uses solar energy, rain Garagistes, and offers a selection of local andNumber 10 townhouse have two bedrooms. water collection and its own wetland to purify imported natural wines (many by the glass)Each has access to a guest laundry, private grey water and recycle it. Harmony Hill does and several interesting spirits. Sidecar, 3/129courtyards and barbecue facilities and there hotel/airport pick-up and return, individually Bathurst St, Hobart, is open seven nights ais also free off-street parking. TwoFourTwo, 242 tailored treatment programs and special week from 5pm; phone (03) 6231 1338.Charles St, Launceston; phone (03) 6331 9241. spa cuisine menus. Harmony Hill, 210 Oldwww.twofourtwo.com.au. Bernies Rd, Margate; phone (03) 6294 8177. Left: Harmony Hill spa suite. www.organicspa-retreat.com. Right: Villa Howden piano lounge.MARKET MOVE Opposite page. Above: Cradle Mountain Chateau restaurant. Below: Mona markets live performances.A NEW farmers market called HarvestLaunceston is being held each Saturdaymorning in the Cimitiere St car parkadjacent to Albert Hall and the Hotel GrandChancellor. The market features some ofTasmania’s best food and wine producersand conforms to Australian Farmers Marketscriteria and regulations. Farmers marketsguru Jane Adams flew in from Sydney toconsult to the organisers. Humbug Reach,Iron Pot Bay and Grey Sands are among thewineries offering tastings and sales. www.harvestmarket.org.au. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 119

78 TASTED62 AWARDEDTA SM AN I AAn excellent tasting of cool climate wines that the Pipers Brook Vineyard RIESLING/Apple Isle is renowned for. Here we see sparkling Ninth Island Tasmania TRAMINERand white wines at their finest, along with some great Pinot Noir Chardonnayelegant pinots and racy sweet whites. NV HHH 12 TASTED A complexity of sweet red 10 AWARDEDSPARKLING Spring Vale Salute fruits, aromas and a delicate and Freycinet Coast refreshing, fruit-driven palate. $28 A strong and consistent class12 TASTED Sparkling 2007 HHHH with genuine varietal characters10 AWARDED Smells of red apples and SAUVIGNON and fruit purity. “Many of these strawberries with a full- BLANC & BLENDS would be even greater withVery good consistency of quality flavoured, complex palate more time,” agreed the judges.here. “These provide subtle offering a big mouthful of flavour 5 TASTED “The contrast of styles showselegance and yet also exhibit and great line of acid. $28 4 AWARDED the wineries’ confidence withcomplexity,” noted one judge. Devils Corner this variety,” added another. Tasmania Sparkling Cuvee Encouraging future for this variety NV HHH1/2 in Tasmania. “There is a distinct Pressing Matters R9 Coal Attractive, rich and complex Tasmanian definition of delicate, River Valley Tasmania toasty/nutty aromas and nice floral characters shining through Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 depth of flavours on the palate here which offers a point of Fine floral fragrances - smells with a slightly warm finish. $24 difference from the mainland and of jasmine, with more of the New Zealand sauvignon blanc,” same characters obvious on thePipers Brook Vineyard Bay of Fires Tasmania said one judge. palate, balanced by very well-Pipers Tasmania Brut Cuvee NV HHH1/2 handled, mineral acidity. HasSparkling 2008 HHHHH Good nose with some apple- Moorilla Praxis Series length and complexity. $29Elegant, fine fruit aromas like characters and lovely, Tasmania Sauvignonand delicate flavours of fresh elegant, apple flavours with Blanc 2011 HHHH Moorilla Musestrawberries with some lingering acidity. $36.50 Subtle gooseberry and Tasmania Gewurztraminersecondary characters adding a Lake Barrington Estate asparagus-like aromas lift off 2011 HHHHsubtle complexity and a good Alexandra Tasmania the nose, and the delicate Intensely varietal, spicy, tropicalacid spine. $37 Chardonnay Pinot Noir palate has zesty acidity and a aromas with touches of roseBay of Fires Tasmania NV HHH1/2 long, lemony finish. $25 petals. A viscous palate withPinot Noir Chardonnay Smells like toast and flavoursome, Turkish Delight-Rose NV HHHH marmalade with a very Devils Corner like characters. $35Lifted musky-like fragrances flavoursome palate verging on Tasmania Sauvignonfollowed by a fuller style of caramel-like characters. Very Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 Bay of Fires Tasmaniapalate, very flavoursome, with complex. $40 Pungent tropical bouquet and Riesling 2011 HHHHgood complexity and lovely Cuvée Tasmania CT blend of very varietal, sweet Citrussy, mineral aromas and acreamy texture. $36.50 Tasmania Pinot Noir and sour flavours with plenty of zesty, fresh citrus/lime palateTaltarni Vineyards Chardonnay NV HHH mineral acidity. $19.95 with underlying phenolicsClover Hill Pipers River A pretty lifted raspberry and giving the wine balance andRosé Cuvee 2008 HHHH rose petal-like nose and simple, Pipers Brook Vineyard structure. $36.50Burnished bronze wine - fruit-driven palate. $23.99 Ninth Island Tasmaniaaromas of strawberries and Pirie Tasmania Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Swan Bay Vineyardcream with attractive berry and Cuvee NV HHH Sweet guava fragrances and Native Point Tasmaniabiscuity flavours that are both Cider-like bouquet and full- a soft, approachable, tropical Riesling 2010 HHHHcomplex and elegant. $54.99 flavoured, well-balanced palate. $22.50 A powerful, sherbety lime- palate with simple, appley like bouquet and a lovely flavours. $ 30 CD Bay of Fires Tasmania complexity of citrus and tropical Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH flavours on the finely textured Delicate pungency on the nose and balanced palate. $25 with flowery notes and slightly sweet, floral flavours. $36.50120 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingMoorilla Muse Tasmania Pipers Brook Vineyard CHARDONNAY Pipers Brook VineyardRiesling 2009 HHHH Ninth Island Tasmania Estate TasmaniaSpicy, preserved lemon Pinot Grigio 2011 HHHHH 12 TASTED Chardonnay 2008 HHHHaromas and intense fruit A lovely lift of floral and apple 10 AWARDED Very delicate, sweet honeysuckleflavours with aged characters blossom aromas on the nose, bouquet and interesting palate;adding complexity and and delicate, lifted and lively A strong class with the older hints of quinces and lemons,finishing warm. $29 flavours on the palate supported wines performing well. with cedary/spicy overtones and by slate-like acidity and with a A few had a surprising touch of lemony acidity. $34Holm Oak Vineyards very gentle finish. $22.50 obvious alcohol and need to be Freycinet VineyardRiesling TGR Tasmania Holm Oak chilled before serving. “Some Tasmania ChardonnayRiesling 2010 HHH1/2 Vineyards Tasmania excellent fruit and sophisticated 2010 HHH1/2Confectionery aromas and Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH winemaking,” said one judge. Pungent, vinous aromas andsweet, fruit palate with some Smells of pears with lifted, “This is one of the unsung elegant palate with intense,residual sugar balanced by sweet pear-like flavours heroes of Tassie.” white stonefruit flavours andgood level of acidity. $22 CD showing a hint of spice. An quite a hot finish. $30 CD elegant wine with impressive Tamar Ridge Kayena Dawson & James DObservatory Hill Vintners length and intensity. $25 Vineyard Tasmania Tasmania ChardonnayReserve Tasmania Riesling Bay of Fires Tasmania Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH 2010 HHH1/22008 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH A fine, refined and intense Rich, spicy and toasty oakGreat line of mineral, citrus Musky cinnamon aromas wine beautifully balanced mingles with ripe, fig-likefruit characters here showing and rich, rounded palate with with complex, flinty aromas characters and is wrapped insome sweetness and a lovely, long, intense, canned pear-like and very elegant, juicy lemon some lovely lemony acidity. $42elegant, palate structure. $24 varietal flavours. Some warmth flavours with delicate, spicy Josef Chromy Pepik on the finish. $36.50 notes coming from the well- Tasmania ChardonnayPressing Matters R0 Coal Last Horizon handled oak. $25 2011 HHHRiver Valley Tasmania East Coast Tasmania Sweet nectarine nose andRiesling 2011 HHH Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH Bay of Fires Tasmania extremely complex, charryIntense, tropical fruit nose and Bright green/gold wine with Chardonnay 2010 HHHH1/2 oak flavours on a creamyfull-flavoured, stonefruit palate; pretty floral aromas, and Elegant, spicy lemony, fruit palate. $20 CDcomplex and sophisticated. $29 sweet and toasty honeysuckle bouquet and some delicate, Spring Vale flavours with the hint of some citrus flavours with minerally Freycinet CoastWhite Rock Tasmania oak influence. $23.99 acidity showing flinty Chardonnay 2011 HHHRiesling 2011 HHH overtones. A simple wine but a Soft, peachy varietal fruit withSweet honeysuckle bouquet very nice one! $40.50 slight tropical notes evidentand sweet, herbaceous, fruit on both the nose and in theflavours. $22 Moorilla Praxis Series mouth. $22 Tasmania ChardonnayRiversdale Estate 2011 HHHHCoal River Valley Tasmania An elegance of oak mingles withRiesling 2011 HHH lemon curd-like fruit charactersElegant, citrus aromas and nice on the nose with very tight,citrussy flavours on a long, fresh, citrussy palate. Just needsfirmly-structured palate. $22.99 some more time. $30PINOT GRIS/ Stefano LubianaGRIGIO Primavera Tasmania Chardonnay 2010 HHHH9 TASTED A charming, complex wine.4 AWARDED Ripe stonefruit aromas show a hint of vanilla with soft,Some excellent examples of rounded, stonefruit palate and athis variety for Tasmania. Great creamy, custard-like finish. $33potential for the state, but siteselection is critical.Graeme Philips Fran Austin JUDGESFood and wine writer Co-owner and winemakerfor the Hobart Mercury of Delamere Vineyards, Greg Melickand Sunday Tasmanian. in Pipers Brook Tasmania. National Show judge forFormer chef/restaurateur Formerly site winemaker/ 20 years. Former chairmanin Hobart and regular manager for the Bay and current director of theWinestate’s Annual of Fires Winery. Has Wine Society. TasmanianTasmanian report vintaged in Burgundy, Vineyard owner. Has hadcorrespondant. Judge at Oregon, Yarra Valley and extensive wine travelTasmanian wine shows. the Adelaide Hills. experience to worldwide vineyards. Burgundy and riesling specialist. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 121

TA S M A N I ASpring Vale Reserve Josef Chromy Tasmania Moorilla Craigie Knowe VineyardFreycinet Coast Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Praxis Series Tasmania Old Vines, New HandsChardonnay 2010 HHH Quite a restrained, cherry Pinot Noir 2011 HHH Tasmania CabernetA malty, rich, malo style with bouquet with a mid-weight Cinnamon and spice and all Sauvignon 2010 HHHHlovely pungent aromas and palate showing a nice balance things nice! A flavoursome and Some cassis aromas with awith plenty of flavour. $40 of varietal fruit and chalky well-balanced wine. $30 delicate, cinnamon-like lift. Fine tannins. $33 grain tannins coat the mouth andPINOT NOIR Pressing Matters Freycinet Vineyard elegant, varietal fruit fills it. $40 Coal River Valley Tasmania Pinot Noir20 TASTED Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Moorilla Muse Series18 AWARDED Tarry and jammy on the nose, “Sunshine in a bottle,” Tasmania Merlot Cabernet and thick and soft in the mouth according to one judge. 2009 HHHA controversial group of wines with good concentration of Plenty of smoky oak and Slight caramel bouquetwhere the judges differed in their some quite developed, ripe and sweet, plum fruit. $55 CD with chocolaty overtones.appreciation of youthful, fruit- sweet fruit characters. $49 Oak dominates the grippy,driven wines compared with the Devils Corner Tasmania Riversdale Estate balanced palate. $35savoury, aged styles. “This great Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Coal River Valleydiversity of character in these Floral/violet-like aromas with Pinot Noir 2010 HHH SWEET WHITEwines offers a lot of choices for oaky highlights. Palate has Dark, concentrated wine withconsumers,” said one judge. length and intensity of spicy, sweet fruit, brooding oak and 4 TASTED plum flavours and nice level of chewy tannins. $22.99 4 AWARDEDLast Horizon Tamar Valley complexity developing. $21Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 White Rock Tasmania Tamar Ridge Kayena A couple of barnstormersSlight leafiness adding Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH Vineyard Tasmania Pinot here, which just goes to showcomplexity to the delicate, Cedary, oak aromas with hints Noir 2010 HHH what cool-climate Tasmaniacherry fruit nose. Balanced of rhubarb. Dry, astringent A fuller, savoury style of pinot can deliver!palate showing great savoury tannins on the palate with some noir that’s textured and long,depth, mocha oak, firm caramel, fruit overtones. $25 with drying tannins. $30 Tamar Ridgetannins and developing, nice Spring Vale Melrose Tasmania Botrytiscomplexity. $23.99 Freycinet Coast Pinot Noir Swan Bay Vineyard Riesling 2010 HHHHH 2011 HHH1/2 Native Point Tasmania An excellent, intensely rich andRichard Meyman Wines Raspberry jam nose and jubey, Pinot Noir 2009 HHH complex wine with beautifulBersenbruck Tasmania red berry palate with some Confectionery, cherry nose and honeyed botrytis, apricot andPinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 pretty spicy layers. Nicely dark, concentrated, sweet/sour citrus characters. Great palateA solid, oak-dominated wine together for a young wine. $22 flavours with tight acidity. $35 length and balance, withwith sinewy tannins, but Bay of Fires Tasmania refreshing acidity. $26there is a great depth and Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Spring Vale Freycinet Coastconcentration of lovely black A complexity of berries on the Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Pressing Matters R139berry varietal fruit flavours nose with lovely, varietal fruit Cherry/violet nose, and soft Coal River Valley Lateunderneath. $32 flavours on the velvety, smooth and rounded palate with sweet Picked Riesling 2007 palate. $40.50 floral/licorice characters. $40 (375ml) HHHHHNocton Park Dawson & James Tasmania Great line of tight acid hereCoal River Valley Pinot Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Bass Strait Tasmania that cuts through the intenseNoir 2008 HHHH1/2 Red berry fruits mingle with Pinot Noir 2008 HHH richness and sweetness of theA lovely melange of powerful cigar box-like oak, creating Bright, lively wine, slightly varietal fruit characters, andbut elegant varietal fruit, well- complex flavours with developed fruit with attractive, showing some lean and greenhandled oak and firm, edgy attractive, spicy highlights. $48 forest floor characters. $24 herbaceous notes. $26tannins. Leafy complexity onthe nose and some licorice Pipers Brook Vineyard Nocton Parknotes on the palate. $28 Reserve Collection Dessert Tasmania Tasmania Pinot Noir Semillon 2010 HHHH STAR RATINGS  2006 HHH Smells of jasmine flowers with Interesting example of a a palate that exhibits a fineThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of complex, aged, Tassie pinot. and elegant balance betweenexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Lots of truffle and forest floor the fruit sweetness and crispAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry elements. $75 acidity. $20professionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges. OTHER Pressing Matters R69 CoalCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, RED VARIETALS River Valley Tasmaniaa major mail-order business. & BLENDS Riesling 2009 HHHHCD Cellar door price. A rich, botrytised-style withCDO Cellar door only. 4 TASTED sweet citrus aromas showingSO Sold out. 2 AWARDED a slight spritz character and$N/A Price not available at time of printing. intense, sweet apricot/botrytis- A struggling group with just like flavours. $29 Contact information pg 160. two wines making the grade. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).122 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

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travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINUPPER NORTH ISLANDHARBOUR HAVEN TASTE THE DIFFERENCE BUILDING ON SUCCESSAUCKLAND has a new five-star waterfront THE menu at The Tasting Shed in Kumeu, NEW Zealand chef Warren Turnbull hashotel: the Sofitel Viaduct Harbour (formerly 20 minutes from downtown Auckland, enjoyed huge success in Sydney withknown as the Westin Lighter Quay), which offers exactly what you would expect from eateries like Assiette and District Diningopened in April. Sofitel Auckland Viaduct the name: every plate is entree-sized and – and now he and partner Mimi GilmourHarbour is the second Sofitel hotel in New they are designed to be shared. Expect a have opened a second District DiningZealand, joining the pioneering Sofitel surprise on each visit because the dishes in Auckland’s trendy Britomart CharterQueenstown Hotel & Spa, which was the change seasonally, while the wine list Customs Building on Customs St East.first five-star hotel to launch in New Zealand’s offers a global selection, and everything The setting is brilliant: high ceilings,premier resort destination. Located in the is available by the glass. Diners can wooden floors and plenty of space, withheart of Auckland City, Viaduct Harbour is share items like marinated olives, smoked art from the owners’ private collectionthe city’s leading commercial, restaurant and paprika spiced almonds, lamb and pork on the walls.entertainment precinct with panoramic views meatballs, or steamed clams with chorizo, The food is designed for sharing andof Waitemata Harbour. All bedrooms and red onion and spiced chickpeas, or order influences range from Japan to Spainsuites at the property have private balconies, larger serves of dishes like braised and and the Middle East – there is also afloor-to-ceiling windows and oversized rolled pigs head with roast garlic puree, good range of wines available by thebathrooms with separate rain showers and carrot and cumin; scallops with pancetta- glass (think names like Misha’s Vineyard,deep soaking bathtubs. The hotel makes wrapped boudin blanc and roast cauliflower Wooing Tree and Miro’s Vineyard) and thethe most of its waterfront location, with its puree; or maybe Caesar salad with white service is warm and polished. The menuown pontoon for yachts and water taxis, anchovies, crisp egg and smoked speck. features snacks like crispy pig’s ears withwhile the hotel’s cafe and restaurant open on Desserts, too, are a specialty here; think Szechuan salt, chicken wings with chillito a waterfront esplanade. The new Sofitel creme caramel with caramel and semillon caramel and crisp school prawns with limealso has a luxury day spa with six treatment jelly, caramel sauce, caramel cream and mayonnaise. Choices for sharing includerooms offering a range of beauty and wellness bergamot ice cream, or churros with the likes of veal tongue with pickled turnipstreatments. Guests can also make use of chocolate. Run by Jo and Ranesh Gaj, The and salsa verde; sumac-crusted kinga sauna and steam room and adjacent Tasting Shed is a converted 1945 pear cider salmon with fennel salad and steak tartaregymnasium. A 20m indoor lap pool and spa shed, next to the Coopers Creek vineyard, with aioli, French fries and sourdough.pool are also available. General manager of turned into a relaxed eatery that has quickly There are also daily blackboard specialsthe Sofitel Queenstown Hotel and Spa, Wouter become popular with local gourmets. and a wine list of bottles, including olderde Graaf, has been appointed to the role of It is open 4-10pm on Wednesdays and vintages and some exciting imports. Districtgeneral manager of Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Thursdays and noon-11pm Friday- Dining, 54 Customs St East, Britomart,Harbour. He will be based in Auckland but will Sunday. The Tasting Shed, State Highway Auckland; phone (+64) 9 368 5315. www.oversee both hotels. Rates start from $299NZ 16, Kumeu; phone (+64) 9 412 6454. districtdining.co.nz.per room per night. www.sofitel.com. www.thetastingshed.co.nz. CHEESE, PLEASE THE Puhoi Valley Cheese factory, in a picturesque valley surrounded by native New Zealand bush, is just a short drive north of Auckland. Visitors are invited to view cheese production and there is a playground nearby for children and several attractive country walks to choose from. The on-site cafe offers a selection of delicious meals, coffees, ice creams and cheeses; and diners can catch a glimpse of the cheese making process through a viewing window. Puhoi Valley Cheese, 275 Ahuroa Rd, Puhoi; phone (+64) 9 422 0670. www.puhoivalley.co.nz.124 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

travelbriefs TASTING TRIUMPH a world-class product is a huge achievement for us,” Heather said. “We have worked MATUA Valley, just 30 minutes out of hard to bring the lodge up to the highest Auckland, has a new cellar door at the standards, to give travellers from around the historic Hunting Lodge (which is just across world a relaxing, rejuvenating and memorable the car park from the old cellar door). Once stay.” Takatu Lodge and Vineyard is set in a restaurant, the Hunting Lodge has now the boutique village of Matakana in a region been refurbished to create a convivial known for its beautiful beaches, vineyards tasting facility. Tastings are free for groups and thriving art scene that is also making a of fewer than 10 with wines also sold by name for itself as a “slow food” destination. the glass for enjoyment in the grounds and The property is a working vineyard and the picnic areas – perhaps accompanied by a focus of the lodge – which has just four cheese platter. There is a range of cheeses, exclusive guest rooms – is on elegance andLUXURY ESCAPE meats and condiments on sale. Matua also comfort in a peaceful and picturesque setting. hosts regular blending sessions so visitors The Tatler travel guide had high praise forWAIHEKE Island, just a 30-minute ferry can learn about the winemaking process Takatu, saying: “This is a bright little lodge ofride from downtown Auckland, is home from the winemakers – and go home with soft beauty and delicate colours, a pocketto some of the best red wine producing their own blend and a Matua apron. The haven that’s dodged the real world”. Takatu’svineyards in New Zealand – and Delamore Matua cellar door is open daily 10am-5pm wines are also internationally successful –Lodge, a luxury escape perfect for except for major public holidays. It is at they are sold in Michelin-starred restaurantscouples. Every suite at the lodge opens Waikoukou Valley Rd, Waimauku; phone in London, Sydney and Melbourne, ason to a180-degree ocean view and deals (+64) 9 411 5501. www.matua.co.nz. well as in leading New Zealand chef Peterstart from $999 per night, including Gordon’s restaurants. Takatu Lodge offersaccommodation in a luxury suite, bubbles FIVE-STAR LUXURY extras like yoga mats, organic fruit juice,and a cheese/fruit platter on arrival, locally handcrafted organic chocolates,pre-dinner drinks and canapes, a four- TAKATU Lodge and Vineyard at Matakana, locally roasted coffee, tea (including organiccourse dinner, gourmet breakfast and an hour north of Auckland, was named as and herbal), fresh fruit and other provisionscomplimentary transfers from Waiheke one of the 101 best hotels in the world in the complimentary. Winter rates start fromFerry Terminal on arrival and departure. exclusive Tatler UK Travel Guide 2012. The $552 per room per night, including fullThe dinner menu highlights island five-star lodge and vineyard was one of only breakfasts and a bottle of wine. Takatu Lodge,produce, including Rangihoua Olive Oil, four New Zealand properties to be included in 518 Whitmore Rd, Matakana; phoneoysters from Te Matukua Bay, fish straight the prestigious guide, and the only one in the (+64) 9 423 0299. www.takatulodge.co.nz.from the boat and even olives directly from Auckland region. Takatu owners Heather andthe estate’s own olive grove. This winter John Forsman said they were thrilled to be Left: District Dining © Jeremy Toth.package offers savings of 20 per cent listed alongside properties like London’s Ritz Right: Delamore Lodge aerial view.and is valid until July 28 for Australian Hotel. “To be internationally acknowledged as Opposite page. Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Harbourand New Zealand residents only. There exterior & interior lounge.are over 30 vineyards on Waiheke: Seekout Goldwater Estate - pioneers of islandwinemaking, Stonyridge for tasting anddining amidst vines, olives and lavenderand Te Whau for outstanding foodand historic wines. Also try MudbrickVineyard and Restaurant and Man O’WarVineyard, whose beautifully situatedtasting room is now serving platters.Delamore Lodge; phone (+64) 9 3727372. www.delamorelodge.com. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 125

41 TASTED30 AWARDEDUPPER NORTH ISLANDA small tasting, reflecting the tiny, very challenging 2011 Karikari Estate Wild OTHER WHITESvintage in the north. However, the judges unearthed Chardonnay 2009 HHHHsome excellent Northland chardonnays, impressive Fleshy Northland wine with 3 TASTEDBordeaux-style blends from Auckland (especially Waiheke substantial body, strong, ripe 2 AWARDEDIsland) and top-flight syrah from Auckland and Northland. stone fruit flavours, nutty, savoury and complex, and a Soljans GisbornePrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. rounded finish. Drinking well GewurztraminerWines available in export markets are shown as now. $40 2010 HHHH(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Intensely varietal, with a floral, Coopers Creek Cee Vee spicy, gingery bouquet andSPARKLING Gisborne Chardonnay fresh, slightly sweet flavours Viognier 2010 HHH1/2 that linger well. Good drinking1 TASTED Fruit-driven style, fresh, peachy now. $21 (US) and creamy, with mouthfilling1 AWARDED body and very good flavour Coopers Creek SV The depth. Not complex but highly Little Rascal GisborneSoljans Fusion Sparkling Karikari Estate drinkable - and good value. $17 Arneis 2011 HHHMuscat NV HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH Pale, citrusy wine, fleshy andCharming, muscat-based bubbly Estate-grown in the Far Stone Bridge Gisborne dry, with lemony, appley,from Gisborne, modelled on the North, and fermented in tanks Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 slightly spicy flavours andvibrantly fruity, low alcohol Asti and French oak barriques, Peachy, slightly biscuity and balanced acidity. $20Spumante style. Floral, sweet this wine is maturing very creamy, with plenty of fresh,and crisp, in a light (8.5 per cent gracefully, unfolding complex ripe-fruit flavour, showing some ROSÉalcohol), simple but delicious flavours, mealy, nutty, savoury complexity. $25style, enjoyed by all judges. minerally and smooth. 1 TASTED$16.50 (US) A subtle style, it has excellent PINOT GRIS 1 AWARDED freshness and length. $32CHARDONNAY The Landing Chardonnay 4 TASTED Coopers Creek Huapai& BLENDS 2010 HHHH1/2 4 AWARDED Rosé 2011 HHH1/2 From a coastal Bay of Islands Bright pink, this west Auckland9 TASTED site, this wine enthused all the A solid class, in which the blend of merlot and malbec is5 AWARDED judges. The bouquet is fragrant wines showed the substantial lively, with strong, berryish, and toasty; the palate powerful, body, gentle acidity and ripe- slightly spicy flavours, showingA strong class, which is no with rich stone fruit and nutty fruit flavours typical of the north. good delicacy and freshness,surprise - chardonnay has long oak flavours, showing good and a well-rounded finish. $17dominated white wine plantings complexity. It’s an “upfront” Marsden Bay of Islandsin the upper North Island. style, but delicious. $28 Pinot Gris 2011 HHH1/2 CABERNETDespite Gisborne’s glowing Fleshy, with ripe stone fruit SAUVIGNONreputation for chardonnay, flavours, a sliver of sweetness, BLENDSNorthland wines from the and very good depth, harmonyexceptionally dry 2010 growing and personality. $27 3 TASTEDseason stole the show. 2 AWARDED Brick Bay Matakana Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Awaroa Requiem Waiheke Mouthfilling, with vibrant pear Island Cabernet Merlot and lychee flavours in a fresh, Malbec 2010 HHHH1/2 slightly sweet, easy-drinking Densely coloured blend with style. $32 real power through the palate. Strapping, with ripe blackcurrant Kapiro Vineyard Kerikeri and liquorice flavours, braced Pinot Gris 2011 HHH by firm tannins. Concentrated, Mouthfilling, creamy-textured structured red, likely to be long- Northland wine with ripe, slightly lived. $65 sweet, stone fruit flavours, balanced for easy drinking. One judge rated it very highly. $24 Stone Bridge Gisborne Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Fresh, pear-like aromas lead into an off-dry, medium-bodied wine, vibrantly fruity and smooth. $25126 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingAwaroa Cabernet Merlot Soho Revolver 2010 HHHH Marsden Bay of Islands PINOTAGEMalbec 2008 HHH Youthful, concentrated blend Vigot Syrah 2010 HHHHHWaiheke Island blend, drinking of merlot (72 per cent), Dark, concentrated Northland 4 TASTEDwell now. “Lean” style, malbec (20 per cent) and red in a full-bodied, “hot 4 AWARDEDaccording to two judges, but a splash of cabernet franc, climate” style (according to onesavoury and spicy, with good grown on Waiheke Island. judge) with deep, well-ripened, This underrated varietytannin support. $32 Deeply coloured, with strong plum/spice flavours, earthy thrives in the north, yielding blackcurrant, wild berry and notes and “chewy” tannins. characterful reds with loads ofMERLOT & BLENDS spice flavours, seasoned with Perfumed and complex. $38 plummy, spicy, earthy flavour. nutty French oak. Stylish,4 TASTED slightly earthy red, showing3 AWARDED good complexity and obvious cellaring potential. $38 (UK, US)Merlot is the most popular Soho White Collection Ti Point Matriarch Karikari Estate Pinotagered wine grape in the north, Menage 2010 HHH1/2 Matakana Coast Syrah 2010 HHHH1/2thriving in the region’s warm Spicy, fragrant, Waiheke 2010 HHHHH Highly concentrated butgrowing conditions and heavy Island merlot/cabernet blend, Boldly coloured, intensely approachable Northland red,clay soils. This was a small but supplemented with cabernet varietal red with a floral, peppery fleshy and dark, with rich fruitrewarding class. franc and malbec. Full-coloured, bouquet. Highly concentrated, flavours seasoned with nutty with firm, plummy, spicy with fresh, deep blackcurrant oak. Powerful wine with aTi Point One Merlot flavours, hints of mint and olives, and spice flavours, fine-grained strong presence. $29.50Cabernet Franc 2010 HHHH some savoury complexity, and tannins and a long, smooth Reef PointDark, fleshy blend of merlot (61 good potential. $30 (US) finish. Open 2013+. $45 Pinotage 2010 HHHHper cent) and cabernet franc, Karikari Estate Boldly coloured red fromgrown at Leigh, near Matakana. SYRAH & BLENDS Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 Waitapu Estate, in the Far North,Elegant and youthful, with Fresh, supple Northland red, strongly seasoned with Frenchripe, concentrated flavours of 8 TASTED deeply coloured, with well- oak. Highly concentrated, withred berries, herbs and dark 5 AWARDED integrated French oak and very rich berry, plum, spice and nutchocolate, fine-grained tannins good depth of lively plum, herb flavours in a “serious”, age-and a long finish. $45 Syrah is the hot new red wine and black pepper flavours. $27.50 worthy style. $25 variety in the north, with wines Reef Point Marsden Bay from Northland, Matakana and Quail Run 2010 HHH of Islands Reserve Waiheke Island all achieving Full-flavoured blend of syrah Pinotage 2010 HHH1/2 five-star ratings. However, (50 per cent) and cabernet Fleshy and smooth, in a three no-award wines showed franc (50 per cent), from gutsy, clearly varietal style unripe, green notes. Waitapu Estate, in the Far with very good depth of ripe, North. Berryish, spicy and plummy, spicy, slightly earthy Awaroa Melba Peach slightly earthy. Two panellists flavours. $28 Waiheke Island Syrah noted “confectionery” and 2010 HHHHH “chocolate” notes. $25 Densely coloured, with a peppery bouquet. Arresting palate, with bold blackberry and spice flavours, nutty, rich and flowing. “A full-throttle example,” noted one judge. Well worth cellaring. $65Michael Cooper James Rowan JUDGESWinestate’s New Zealand Winemaker ateditor is the author of the Auckland’s West Brook Cameron Douglasinternationally acclaimed Wine Winery, James has a A senior lecturer in wineAtlas of New Zealand and the postgraduate diploma in and beverages at AUT,annual Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s viticulture and oenology Cameron is the soleGuide to New Zealand Wines. from Lincoln University Master Sommelier inIn the 2004 New Year Honours, and is a senior national New Zealand or Australia.Michael was appointed an wine judge.Officer of the New ZealandOrder of Merit for services towine writing. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 127

UPPER NORTH ISLAND Soljans Gisborne Karikari Estate Pinotage 2010 HHH Hell Hole 2008 HHH Easy-drinking style with full, Mature Northland blend of five youthful colour and plummy, varieties – cabernet franc, spicy flavours. Medium-bodied, tannat, cabernet sauvignon, with good depth and a touch of syrah and pinotage. Good complexity. $19.50 concentration of blackcurrant and herb flavours, slightly OTHER REDS earthy and nutty, some savoury complexity and a firm finish. $22 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED Marsden Bay of Islands Cavalli 2011 HHH Coopers Creek SV Smooth, easy-drinking The Exile Gisborne Northland blend of pinotage Malbec 2010 HHHH and chambourcin (a French Generous, purple-flushed red, hybrid). Full-coloured and fruity, sweet-fruited, with rich, ripe with an earthy bouquet, plenty plum and spice flavours, finely of ripe, berryish, spicy flavour textured and youthful. Drink and gentle tannins. $25 now or cellar. $28 SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED 0 TASTED 0 AWARDED128 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

MICHAEL COOPERA strong line-up of wines, representing all the key Church Roadstyles – sauvignon blanc, aromatic whites, pinot noir Reserve Hawke’s Bayand cabernet/merlot. A highlight of the tasting was the Chardonnay 2010memorable quality of the three top chardonnays from Powerful wine with a richlyHawke’s Bay, Nelson and Marlborough. fragrant, complex bouquet. Weighty and notablyPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. concentrated, with strong, ripeWines available in export markets are shown as stonefruit and nut flavours.(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Very lush and complex style with a creamy texture and a lasting finish. Best drinking 2013+. $39.99Clos Henri Marlborough Greystone Greystone Sea Star Waipara Rockburn The Art CentralSauvignon Blanc 2011 Basket Star Waipara Valley Riesling 2011 Otago Pinot Noir 2010Right on form. Classic, fleshy, Riesling 2011 (375ml) Very refined and intense, this Boldly coloured, fleshy,Wairau Valley style (5 per cent Very youthful, sweet wine with “dry” riesling carries the style single-vineyard red with highlybarrel-fermented), with good lovely lightness and depth. extremely well. Full of potential, concentrated plum, cherry andweight and ripe tropical fruit Light yellow, with a beautifully it is invitingly scented, with spice flavours, hints of herbsflavours, fresh and strong. scented, citrusy, honeyed fresh, ripe, citrusy, peachy, and liquorice, and fine-grainedFinely poised, with good acid bouquet, it is low in alcohol slightly minerally flavours, tannins. A very powerful andspine and a dry, rich finish. (9 per cent), with lemon, poised, lively and long. Best harmonious wine, it should be$29.80 (A, UK, US) peach and apricot flavours, a drinking 2014+. $24.95 (A) very long-lived. $90Kina Beach Vineyard hint of sherbet, a slightly oily Greystone Waipara Nautilus MarlboroughReserve Nelson texture, and excellent harmony, Riesling 2011 Chardonnay 2011Chardonnay 2010 delicacy and richness. Best Fleshy and concentrated, Classic cool-climate style, withFull of personality. From a cool, mid-2013+. $45 (A) with loads of drink-young lovely poise and potential.coastal site, it is bright and Voss Reserve charm, this gently sweet Hand-harvested, barrel-youthful in colour, with a highly Martinborough wine has a full-bloomed fermented and lees-stirred, it isfragrant, complex bouquet. The Pinot Noir 2010 bouquet. Already delicious, very elegant and complex, withpalate is focused, poised and From vines up to 23 years it has ripe stonefruit flavours rich citrus fruit and stonefruitminerally, with deep stonefruit old, this is a classic regional of peach and apricot, a hint flavours, a subtle seasoningflavours, hints of butter and style - deliciously ripe, savoury of spice, and a rounded, very of oak, slightly biscuity andbutterscotch, a fine thread of and complex. Ruby hued, harmonious finish. $24.95 (A) buttery notes, and a tight, longacidity, and notable drive and mouthfilling and sweet-fruited, finish. Already offering a lotlength. Fine value at $30. it has deep cherry and spice of pleasure, it should be at itsChurch Road Reserve flavours, with hints of “forest best mid-2013+. $34 (A, UK)Hawke’s Bay Cabernet floor”, good tannin backbone,Merlot 2009 and a finely textured, veryVery powerful, densely packed persistent finish. $39 (UK)red from the Gimblett Gravelsand the company’s RedstoneVineyard in The Triangle,matured for 21 months inFrench oak casks and bottledunfiltered. Boldly coloured,fleshy and robust (14.5 percent alc/vol), with notablyconcentrated blackcurrant,plum, spice and coffee flavours,braced by firm tannins. Certainlyhas the “wow” factor! $39.99 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 129

MICHAEL COOPER½ Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay Misha’s Vineyard Ara Single Estate Gewurztraminer 2011 Dress Circle Central MarlboroughAra Select Blocks Weighty, intensely varietal Otago Pinot Gris 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2011Marlborough Sauvignon wine, estate-grown at Te Invitingly scented, full-bodied A classic regional style – freshBlanc 2011 Awanga, tank-fermented (90 wine (14 per cent alc/vol), and ripely scented, with goodPowerful, tightly structured per cent) and then fully barrel- showing excellent vibrancy, intensity. Mouthfilling winewine, estate-grown in the aged for four months. Youthful, richness and complexity (32 with tropical fruit flavours ofWaihopai Valley. Authoritative, with impressively concentrated, per cent of the blend was passionfruit and lime, livelywith excellent intensity of spicy, gingery flavours, a touch fermented with indigenous acidity, excellent purity andfresh, tropical fruit flavours, a of sweetness, and excellent yeasts in old French oak casks). balance, and a tight, dry, lengthyminerally streak, good drive depth, complexity and harmony. Strong, very fresh lychee, pear finish. $21.95 (A, UK, US)through the palate and a long, Well worth cellaring. $29 and spice flavours, in a medium- Blackenbrookdry finish. $25.95 (A, UK, US) Nautilus Marlborough dry style with a slightly oily Vineyard Nelson ReserveAurum Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 texture and a lingering finish. Pinot Noir 2010Pinot Noir 2010 Full of youthful vigour and Well worth cellaring. $27.95 Powerful Nelson red, harvestedFinely scented, deeply coloured promise, this ruby hued red is Terrace Edge Waipara at 25.6 brix. Robust (15 perLowburn red, French oak-aged mouthfilling and supple, with Pinot Noir 2010 cent alc), very ripe and rich,for 18 months. Youthful and good density and structure. Enticingly floral red with deep, with a strong surge of plum,rich, in a “masculine” style with A very graceful, “feminine” youthful colour. Sweet-fruited cherry, spice and nut flavours,highly concentrated plum, spice style, it has strong, ripe plum/ and savoury, with good drive and firm underlying tannins.and nut flavours, savoury and spice flavours, woven with fresh and immediacy. Concentrated A classic “iron fist in a velvetcomplex, and a firm backbone acidity, oak complexity and a cherry, plum, herb and spice glove”. Open 2013+. $31of tannin. Open 2014+. $35 long, finely poised finish. Open flavours, showing excellent BlackenbrookCoal Pit Tiwha Central 2014+. $40.50 (A, UK, US) complexity and a finely textured Vineyard NelsonOtago Pinot Noir 2010 Misha’s Vineyard finish. Great value at $29. (A) Gewurztraminer 2010Full of drink-young charm, Verismo Central Otago Alsace-style, hand-picked at 24.8but still very youthful, this Pinot Noir 2009  brix. Perfumed bouquet, withGibbston red is beautifully This reserve red is drinking mouthfilling body, ripe stonefruit,scented, supple and rich, with beautifully now. Oak-aged Amisfield Central Otago pear, spice and ginger flavours,deep plum, cherry, herb and longer and given greater Pinot Gris 2010 gentle sweetness, and excellentspice flavours, very fresh and exposure to new oak (34 per Drinking well now, this off-dry depth and harmony. Drinkingsmooth. Best drinking mid- cent) than its non-reserve wine was estate-grown in the well now. $242013+. $42 (A) stablemate, it is richly coloured, Cromwell Basin, and fermented Blackenbrook sweet-fruited and supple, with in tanks (70 per cent) and large Vineyard Nelson concentrated strawberry and French oak barrels (30 per cent). Montepulciano 2010 spice flavours, finely textured Mouthfilling, fleshy and rounded, Powerful, fruit-crammed red and lingering. $62.95 it’s a good food wine, finely with bold, fairly youthful colour. Stoneleigh Rapaura balanced, with vibrant, peachy, Smoky bouquet, in a hearty, Series Marlborough spicy flavours and the subtle oak high alcohol style (14.5 per cent) Chardonnay 2011 adding richness. $30 (A) with plum, spice and liquorice Stylish, richly fragrant, single- flavours, firm and concentrated. vineyard wine, French oak- Ara Select Think venison or wild boar. $27 fermented (37 per cent new). Blocks Marlborough Bel Echo by Clos Henri Weighty and concentrated, with Pinot Noir 2011 Marlborough Sauvignon very fresh and vibrant, citrusy, Still very youthful, this Blanc 2011 peachy flavours, seasoned with attractively scented Waihopai From clay soils (the top wine at toasty oak, a hint of butterscotch, Valley red was French oak-aged Clos Henri is off stonier blocks), balanced acidity, and a tight, for 10 months. Mouthfilling and this is a powerful, sweet-fruited, harmonious finish. It’s still vibrantly fruity, it has excellent ripe-tasting wine with excellent youthful; best 2013+. $29.99 depth of ripe cherry/plum body and depth of tropical fruit flavours, with savoury notes flavours, dry and well-rounded. STAR RATINGS  adding complexity, and good Great drinkability. $24 (A, UK, US) tannin support. A skilfully craftedThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of wine, it should be at its best mid-excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2013+. $29.95 (A, UK, US)All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).130 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

recent releasesBorthwick Vineyard Kingsmill Tippet’s Race Pegasus Bay Wither Hills RarangiWairarapa Pinot Gris 2011 Riesling 2009 Finale 2010 (375ml) Marlborough SauvignonFleshy, dry style, vibrantly fruity, Racy, bone-dry style from Very full-bodied, “Sauternes Blanc 2011with ripe stonefruit flavours, Bendigo, in Central Otago. style” dessert wine, from Crisp, dry, single-vineyard wine,showing good concentration, a Offering plenty of personality, botrytised semillon grown at from a site on the Wairau Valleyhint of oak adding complexity, it is youthful in colour, with Waipara and matured for two coast. Mouthfilling body, withand excellent texture, harmony toasty, bottle-aged aromas. The years in French oak barriques. fresh, citrusy, limey flavoursand richness. Good “food” palate is crisp and minerally, Golden, with stonefruit, honey showing excellent purity, delicacywine. $24 (A, UK, US) with tight lemon/lime flavours, and nut flavours, firm acid spine, and harmony. Slightly minerally,Borthwick Vineyard showing good vigour and and excellent concentration and with a lasting finish. $25 (A, UK)Wairarapa Riesling 2011 intensity, and a slightly flinty complexity. Still youthful; open Wither Hills WairauTightly structured, youthful finish. Drink now and over the 2014+. $36.95 (A, UK) Valley Marlboroughwine, medium-bodied, with next several years. $23 (A) Petit Clos by Clos Pinot Noir 2010strong, citrusy, slightly peachy Misha’s Vineyard Henri Marlborough Instantly attractive, with aand minerally flavours, a Lyric Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc 2011 fragrant, slightly smoky, spicysliver of sweetness and fresh Riesling 2011 Based on young vines, tank- bouquet and rich, smoothacidity. Medium-dry style with Full-bodied, dry style (5g/litre fermented and lees-aged, this palate. Warm and savoury, withgood intensity, balance and of residual sugar), but not at is a full-bodied, fleshy, dry wine sweet-fruit characters, generouslength. $22 (A, UK) all austere, handled in a mix with sweet-fruit delights and cherry and plum flavours, goodBrodie Estate of tanks (74 per cent) and old strong flavours of passionfruit complexity and a finely poised,Pinot Noir 2010 French oak barrels (24 per and lime, ripe and rounded. well-rounded finish. Drink nowSturdy, very ripe-tasting cent). Already quite open and Great value. $19.90 (A, UK, US) or cellar. $29.99 (A, UK, US)Martinborough red, harvested expressive, with strong, ripe, Stoneleigh Pinot Noirat 24-27 brix. Full-coloured and citrusy flavours, good acid Marlborough Rosé 2011 ½bold (14.5 per cent alc/vol), spine, a minerally streak and a Vivacious, with pale red colour,with concentrated, sweet-fruit lingering finish. $26.95 satisfying body and strong, Ara Pathway Marlboroughcharacters of cherries, plums berryish, slightly spicy flavours. Sauvignon Blanc 2011and liquorice and a spicy, Nanny Goat A finely balanced “food” wine, Single-vineyard, Waihopaisavoury complexity. $42 Vineyard Central Otago made in a dryish style with Valley wine with fresh, tropicalChurch Road Hawke’s Pinot Noir 2010 balanced acidity and excellent fruit characters to the fore.Bay Merlot Cabernet Still developing, this high-altitude freshness and harmony. $25 Ripe, non-herbaceous style,Sauvignon 2010 Gibbston red is full and bright Terrace Edge with passionfruit, lime andDark, full-flavoured blend of in colour, mouthfilling, rich and Classic Waipara Valley spice flavours, showing verymerlot (59 per cent), cabernet smooth. Intensely varietal, it has Riesling 2011 good vigour and depth, and asauvignon (31 per cent) and strong cherry, plum and slight Full-bodied style with slightly minerally, dry finish.malbec (8 per cent) with a splash herb flavours, showing good generous, ripe, citrusy, $19.95 (UK, US)of cabernet franc. The bouquet complexity (French oak, one- slightly peachy flavours, a Ara Single Estateis fragrant and spicy; the palate third new), and ripe, firm tannins. hint of marmalade moderate Marlboroughmouthfilling, with excellent Best mid-2013+. $36 (A) acidity and a dryish finish. Pinot Noir 2011depth of cassis, plum and spice Impromptu Central Otago Finely balanced for current Floral, supple, vibrantly fruityflavours, rich, ripe and smooth. Pinot Noir 2010 consumption or cellaring. Fine red from the Waihopai Valley,Drink now or cellar. $29 Aimed at the “on-premise” value at $19.50. French oak-aged for six months.Clark Estate Block 8 Single market, this instantly appealing Terrace Edge Waipara Youthful, with very good depth ofVineyard Riesling 2011 red was estate-grown at Misha’s Valley Pinot Gris 2011 fresh plum and cherry flavours, aEstate-grown in the Awatere Vineyard and fully barrel-aged. Fleshy, Alsace-style pinot gris, hint of herbs, a subtle seasoningValley, Marlborough, this is a low Delicious now, it is deeply fermented with indigenous of oak, and lots of drink-youngalcohol (9.5 per cent) style. Partly coloured, with a strong surge of yeasts in old oak barrels. appeal. $24.95 (A, UK, US)(13 per cent) barrel-fermented, ripe cherry and plum flavours, Full-bodied and slightly sweet,it is finely scented, with lemon/ smooth and rich. $29.95 with concentrated, peachy, Bird Marlboroughlime flavours showing excellent spicy, slightly gingery and Sauvignon Blanc 2011freshness, purity and depth, a honeyed flavours. Drink now Tightly structured, youthfulhint of sherbet and lovely sugar/ or cellar. $24 (A) wine, grown at Rapaura, in theacid balance. $25 Two Rivers Wairau Valley. Mouthfilling, withFlying Mouton Hawke’s Altitude Marlborough ripe, tropical fruit flavours ofBay Pinot Noir 2009 Pinot Noir 2010 passionfruit and lime, showingWho said Hawke’s Bay is too From “four very special barrels”, very good depth, and a fresh,warm for pinot noir? From a this wine was grown at high crisp finish. $24.95 (A, US)relatively cool, elevated, inland altitude (over 300m above seasite, this wine is delicious now. level) in the Awatere Valley.Full and bright in colour, it is Deeply coloured, savoury,mouthfilling and savoury, with concentrated and supple, it isgenerous, ripe cherry, plum and finely textured, with cherry/plumspice flavours, a slightly earthy flavours, some herbal notes,streak and good tannin backbone. and impressive richness and“Mouton” is French for sheep. complexity. $50 (UK)(From Osawa.) $35 (A) July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 131

MICHAEL COOPERBorthwick Vineyard Clark Estate Single Kina Beach Te Kairanga EstateWairarapa Pinot Noir 2010 Vineyard Awatere Valley Vineyard Reserve MartinboroughRuby hued, supple, moderately Pinot Gris 2011 Nelson Pinot Noir 2009 Pinot Noir 2010concentrated red with cherry, Youthful, finely poised wine, Savoury, ruby hued red with a Ruby hued, attractively scentedplum, herb and spice flavours, partly (12 per cent) barrel- fragrant, spicy, slightly herbal and supple red in an easy-fresh acidity, a subtle oak fermented. Fresh, pure and bouquet. Shows good varietal drinking style, oak-aged forinfluence and good “pinosity”. vibrantly fruity, with very good character and complexity in a eight months. Cherry, plumDrink now. $35 (A, UK, US) delicacy and depth of pear moderately concentrated style and slight herb flavours, with aBrancott Estate Gisborne and lychee flavours, a sliver with supple tannins. $40 touch of complexity and goodChardonnay 2010 of sweetness and appetising Martinborough Vineyard “pinosity”. $22 (A)Fleshy and ripe-tasting, acidity. $23.50 (UK) Te Tera Pinot Noir 2011 Te Kairangawith mouthfilling body and Clark Estate Single Barrel-aged for seven months, Runholder Martinboroughpeachy, slightly biscuity and Vineyard Awatere Valley this is a drink-young charmer. Pinot Noir 2008buttery flavours, showing Riesling 2011 Showing good “pinosity”, it is Full, maturing colour. Generous,moderate complexity and very Lemon-scented, medium-bodied ruby hued, floral and supple, with fresh acidity and verygood freshness, balance and wine, buoyantly fruity, with fresh, with moderately rich, well- satisfying depth of spicy,depth. $26 citrusy slightly spicy flavours, a ripened cherry, plum and spice nutty flavour, showing goodBrancott Estate minerally streak and very good flavours, showing some savoury complexity. Ready. $28 (A)Marlborough depth. Best 2013+. $28 (UK) complexity. $32 (A, UK) Terrace Edge LiquidGewurztraminer 2011 Dunnolly Parish Family Milcrest Estate Geography Waipara ValleyPerfumed, mouthfilling, Estate Waipara Valley Nelson Syrah 2010 Riesling 2011strongly varietal wine with Chardonnay 2011 Fans of pinot noir should enjoy Medium style with ripe, citrusy,with ripe lychee, spice and Mouthfilling, fresh and this fresh, smooth, finely- slightly honeyed aromas andslight ginger flavours, a gentle vibrant, with ripe, citrusy, balanced red. A single-vineyard flavours. Lots of drink-youngsplash of sweetness, and very peachy flavours, showing blend of syrah (94 per cent) and charm, with a finely balanced,good depth. $26 good delicacy and depth, and viognier (6 per cent), grown gently sweet finish. $19.90Brancott Estate a gentle seasoning of biscuit at Hope, it is full-coloured and Toi Toi BrookdaleMarlborough Sauvignon oak. Partly barrel-fermented, vibrantly fruity, with plummy, Reserve MarlboroughBlanc 2011 moderately complex style, peppery flavours, barrel-aged Pinot Gris 2011Freshly scented, ripe-fruit drinking well in its youth. $22 complexity and lots of drink- Dryish style, grown in thearomas lead into a mouthfilling, Flying Sheep Hawke’s Bay young appeal. $35 Omaka Valley. Fresh, livelylively wine with passionfruit Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Opawa Marlborough and full-bodied, with satisfyingand lime flavours, zingy acidity, Ripely scented, with fresh, Pinot Noir 2011 depth of peach, pear and spiceand very good vigour and tropical fruit aromas. Still opening out, this very easy- flavours, lively acidity and gooddepth. $26 Mouthfilling and fleshy, with drinking, vibrantly fruity red is immediacy. $22 (A, UK)Burnt Spur Martinborough passionfruit, peach and lime ruby hued, fresh and supple, Trinity Hill Hawke’s BayPinot Gris 2011 flavours, showing very good with well-ripened cherry and Pinot Gris 2011Fresh, crisp and lively, this depth, and a dry, rounded plum flavours, showing some Fresh and full-bodied, with verymedium-bodied wine from finish. Good now. (From savoury complexity. (From good depth of citrusy, peachy,Martinborough Vineyard was Osawa.) $20 (A) Nautilus.) $28.95 (A, UK) faintly honeyed flavours, aestate-grown in the Burnt Spur Goldwater Wairau Stoneleigh Marlborough slightly creamy texture and avineyard. Ripely scented, it is Valley Marlborough Chardonnay 2011 basically dry (4g/litre of residualan off-dry style with vibrant Chardonnay 2011 Cool-climate style, fresh and sugar), well-rounded finish. (8peach, spice and slight honey Mouthfilling, toasty and vibrantly fruity, with plenty per cent viognier.) $21 (A)flavours, finely balanced for buttery. Fleshy, with generous of citrusy, peachy flavour, a Triplebank Awatereearly enjoyment. $22 (A) stonefruit flavours, ripe and subtle seasoning of oak and a Valley MarlboroughChurch Road Hawke’s Bay smooth, a hint of butterscotch, finely balanced, slightly creamy Pinot Noir 2011Chardonnay 2011 and a slightly creamy texture. finish. $25 Ruby hued and supple, withFull-flavoured, with ripe, Already enjoyable; best Te Kairanga Estate youthful, fresh cherry, plum andpeachy, slightly toasty and drinking 2013. $22 (A) Martinborough slight spice flavours, showinghoneyed flavours, showing Grower’s Mark Chardonnay 2010 good ripeness and delicacyconsiderable complexity. Marlborough Citrusy, peachy, moderately and some savoury, nuttyAlready enjoyable. $29 Pinot Noir 2011 complex and smooth, in a complexity. Open 2013+. $29Church Road Hawke’s Bay From Farmers Market, this vibrantly fruity style with Wither Hills MarlboroughPinot Gris 2011 wine was grown 300m above some toasty, buttery notes Chardonnay 2011Estate-grown in the relatively sea level at Ballochdale, in the from barrel fermentation and Youthful, vibrantly fruity winecool, elevated, inland Matapiro Awatere Valley. Ruby hued, balanced acidity. Enjoyable now with generous, ripe, peachy,district, this is a full-bodied, floral, vibrantly fruity and and good value. $19 (A) citrusy flavours, a restrainedcreamy-textured wine with supple, it has fresh, generous oak influence, fresh aciditymoderately concentrated, plum and cherry flavours, with and lots of drink-youngpeachy, slightly gingery and a gentle seasoning of oak. A appeal. $22 (A, UK)spicy flavours, and a slightly delicious, drink-young style, itsweet, well-rounded finish. $29 is finely textured, with some aging potential. $25.90132 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

WINE OF THE YEAR PUBLIC TASTING 2012 Exclusive Subscriber Tasting of the 60 best wines of Australia and NZ of 2012 National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 14 September 6pm - 8.30pm $75 Subscribers and Sponsors entry is free per ticket Ticket bookings 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] Strictly limited number of tickets available

MICHAEL COOPER Bird Big Barrel Catalina Sounds Goldwater Wairau Valley The Old Schoolhouse Marlborough Pinot Gris 2011Ara Pathway Marlborough Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 Fresh and peachy, in a mediumPinot Noir 2011 Pinot Noir 2010 This single-vineyard red was to full-bodied style with ripeFruit-driven style, French Supple, medium-bodied style, hill-grown in the Omaka Valley, stonefruit flavours, a touch ofoak-aged for six months, with ruby hued, with cherry, plum fermented with indigenous sweetness and balanced acidity.a deep, ruby hue and vibrant and slight herb flavours, woven yeasts, French oak-aged and Still very youthful. $22 (A)plum, cherry and spice flavours, with fresh acidity and some bottled unfiltered. Light ruby in One Estate Marlboroughshowing good freshness, savoury complexity. $35 (A, US) hue, with some development Sauvignon Blanc NVripeness and depth. Enjoyable Boreham Wood Single showing, it has gentle From Winegrowers of Ara, thisyoung. $21.95 (UK, US) Vineyard Awatere Valley strawberry, spice and slight herb lively, estate-grown sparklingAurum Central Otago Pinot Gris 2011 flavours, savoury touches and a is buoyantly fruity, with crisp,Pinot Gris 2011 Pale straw, with fresh, peachy, smooth finish. Ready. $27 (A) ripe, limey flavours, fresh andTight, youthful wine, distinctly spicy flavours. Slightly Clayfork Vineyard zesty, and a finely balanced,estate-grown at Lowburn. gingery and honeyed, with a Waihopai Valley dryish finish. $19.95 (A, UK)Mouthfilling, with fresh citrus gentle splash of sweetness and Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Sideways Central Otagoand stonefruit flavours, a hint lively acidity. Partly (12 per cent) Tight, restrained wine, hand- Pinot Noir 2011of spice, lively acidity and a barrel-fermented. $22.50 (UK) picked in the upper reaches of Ruby hued red, hand-pickeddryish finish. $26 Clark Estate Single the valley, fermented in large at Bendigo, with moderately Vineyard Awatere Valley oak vessels and lees-aged. concentrated cherry, plum andBird Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Fleshy and ripe-tasting, slightly herb flavours, showing somePinot Gris 2011 Fresh, crisp and dry, with ripely spicy and creamy, but currently earthy, savoury complexity (35Dryish style, grown at Rapaura, herbaceous flavours, a slightly a bit shy; open 2013. $26 (A) per cent barrel-aged) and gentlein the Wairau Valley. Mouthfilling, minerally character and good Crowded House tannins. Enjoyable young. $33with peachy, distinctly spicy vigour and length. $21 (A, UK) Nelson Marlborough Totara Marlboroughflavours, a hint of ginger, and Pinot Noir 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2011good ripeness and depth. Drink A drink-young charmer, ruby Ripe, non-herbaceous style,now-2013. $24.95 (A, US) hued, with fresh, lively flavours grown at Rapaura, in the of cherries, plums and spices to Wairau Valley. Medium- the fore. (A regional blend that bodied, with satisfying depth also includes a small amount of of passionfruit/lime flavours, Waipara fruit.) $22 (A) fresh, crisp and dry. $20 (A) Flying Mouton Hawke’s Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Pinot Noir 2011 Maturing gracefully, with good Ruby hued, floral and vibrantly body and depth, this is a typical fruity, with fresh cherry/plum regional style with restrained flavours, a hint of herbs and tropical fruit flavours, ripe and some savoury complexity. Lots rounded, and some bottle- of drink-young charm. $22 (UK) aged complexity. “Mouton” is French for “sheep”. (From Osawa.) $20 (A)134 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDJuly/August 2012 Issue 124 FREE COPYin this issueWHISKIES OF THE WORLDNEW RELEASESandTOP 40Best Wine Buysunder $20 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

34 TASTED24 AWARDEDWHISKIES OF THE WORLDIt is interesting to see the growth in home-grown malt Lark Distillery Dewar's White Labelwhisky’s which show promise for the future, while a Rum Cask Single Malt Scotland Blended Scotchnice line-up of Scotch blends and single malts, offers the Whisky 58% HHH1/2 Whisky 40% HHH1/2consumer lots to choose from, whether it be strong, Nice sweet fruitiness on the Light, pleasant, whisky nosepeaty, islay styles to elegant, pure highland styles. nose; rich and complex in and well-balanced palate with the mouth with sweet, dark good integration of wood andNEW ZEALAND Great Southern Distilling chocolaty flavours. $190 spirity flavours. $36.99WHISKY Company Barrel M74 McCallum's PerfectionUNDER $100 Western Australia Single BLENDED Scotland Blended Scotch Malt Whisky 61% HHHH SCOTCH WHISKY Whisky 40% HHH1/24 TASTED A rich, elegant, older style full A light, woody nose2 AWARDED of Christmas cake and toffee- 11 TASTED with nice whisky notes. like characters with some 9 AWARDED Mid-range sweetness on theA contrast between two big nuttiness, drying sherry oak palate balanced by woodyflavoured, wood complex styles and quite hot alcohol. $200 The judges found these complexity. $37.99and two lighter single malts offered, \"A good consistent King Robert II Finestlacking whisky character. standard overall with few Scotland Blended Scotch stand-out bad ones as seen in Whisky 40% HHHThe New Zealand Whisky the past.\" Great value blends Some tomato bush-likeCollection Double Wood for mixing or straight. characters on the nose10 Year Old Blended and sweet, broad, whiskyWhisky 40% HHH1/2 Chivas Regal Gold flavours. $32.99A full, robust style smelling of Signature Aged 18 Years Johnnie Walker Red Labelcaramel and hazelnuts with a Blended Scotch Whisky Scotland Blended Scotchsweet and very spicy woody 40% HHHH1/2 Whisky 40% HHHpalate. $78 Excellent depth of intense, A good, clean, well-balanced well-integrated and complex product with wood and spiritThe New Zealand Whisky woody aromas on the nose. maturation flavours. $33.99Collection Diggers & Broad, rich and complex palate Ballantine's FinestDitch Double Malt Whisky with a lovely combination Scotland Blended Scotch40% HHH1/2 of wood, caramel and malt Whisky 40% HHHDark, rich and almost varnishy flavours. $95 Big peaty dryness and good,nose with a velvety smooth, strong, whisky flavours. Clean,caramelly sweet palate and a The Black Douglas complex and balanced. $40.99long, drying finish. $99.99 Premium Scotland The Inverarity Blended Scotch Whisky Edinburgh Blended ScotchAUSTRALIA 40% HHHH Whisky 40% HHH& NEW ZEALAND A big peaty nose showing Lifted estery floral aromas andSINGLE MALT lovely maturity and a full- lighter palate with more of theWHISKY flavoured palate with malty those floral characters. $60 sweetness and pleasant, drying7 TASTED Tasmania Distillery wood finish. $31.99 Sullivans Cove French3 AWARDED Oak Single Cask Malt Matthew Gloag & Son Whisky 47.5% HHH1/2 The Famous Grouse A well-made, smooth, easy Scotland Blended Scotch to drink whisky with woody Whisky 40% HHHH aromas and warm, full-flavoured A lighter \"new-age\" whisky palate with good age. $150 style - young, clean and fresh. Some good spirit and woodA mixed result with blending. Offers soft andinteresting flavours offering pleasant drinking. $38.99something different from theusual Scotch whiskies.136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingSINGLE MALT SINGLE MALT The Inverarity Islay Glenmorangie ExtremelySCOTCH WHISKY SCOTCH WHISKY Aged 8 Years Edinburgh Rare Aged 18 YearsUNDER $80 OVER $80 Pure Malt Scotch Whisky Highland Single Malt 40% HHHH1/2 Scotch Whisky 43% HHHH3 TASTED 8 TASTED A youthful, powerful, peaty A full flavoured product with a2 AWARDED 8 AWARDED Islay style with attractive peaty presence and characters smoky characters and of sweet oranges. Very smooth\"Very good entry point for well- A strong class of stylish and seaweedy elements. \"One in the mouth and has a certainmade malts,\" said one judge. elegant whiskies with lovely to watch; needs to grow-up,\" elegance. $129\"These are smooth, easy to peaty, Islay characters in some suggested one judge. $80drink whiskies.\" and excellent spirit and oak The Inverarity maturation in others. Ancestral Speyside Aged 14 Years Edinburgh Lagavulin Aged 16 Years Single Malt Scotch Island of Islay Single Islay Whisky 40% HHHH1/2 Malt Whisky 43% HHHHH A rich, full and well-aged Malty/peaty aromas with nice style with complex caramel aged characters evident and a aromas layered with very good well-balanced palate with rich, sherry oak and nice depth of peaty mouthfeel and slightly Christmas cake-like flavours phenolic Islay elements and with drying end. $93 hints of seaweed. $120Highland Park The Glenrothes Laphroaig 10 Years Old The Macallan Fine Oak 12Aged 12 Years Scotland Select Reserve Speyside Islay Single Malt Scotch Years Old HighlandSingle Malt Scotch Single Malt Scotch Whisky 40% HHHH Single Malt ScotchWhisky 40% HHHH Whisky 43% HHHH1/2 Big Islay richness to the nose. Whisky 40% HHH1/2A full, robust, silky smooth Gorgeous nose - all malty, sweet \"Wow,\" was one judge's A lighter style with some agestyle with sweet and spicy, and coffee-like with a very clean, comment. A powerful, tarry and complexity with goodpeaty bouquet. A little warming velvety smooth, traditional style palate; quite astringent with wood balanced by good level ofon the seamlessly integrated of palate that is beautifully soft in good wood balance. $80 sweetness. $85palate, good dryness. $70 the mouth. $80 The Inverarity RareGlenfiddich Speyside Aged 10 Years12 Years Old Scotland Edinburgh Single MaltSingle Malt Scotch Scotch Whisky 40% HHHWhisky 40% HHH1/2 A young whisky with veryA little peat and malt presence light floral bouquet and lighton the nose and a good balance and youthful sweet floraland integration of wood and flavours. $80malt on the palate. $69.99 JUDGESRussell Johnson Steven Matthews Stan ObstCEO of Russell Johnson Former lecturer in hospitality Former corporate projectsConsulting, for wine studies at Regency College manager at distiller& spirit research and of Tafe and the Adelaide Tarac Australia Pty Ltd.development. Formerly Institute of TAFE. Also a Has been a lecturer onwine division technical former general manager of distillation at the Universitymanager of Beringer Blass the Earl of Zetland Hotel, of Adelaide and has judgedWine Estates. Eight years’ and malt specialist. the brandy class at theexperience as production Adelaide Wine Show.manager with SeagramSpirits. Adelaide Wine Showjudge in the brandy class. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

NEW RELEASES232 TASTED153 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESTasted at the end of vintage, this particular New Releases always Pipers Brook SEMILLONseems to be a difficult one, with some end of bin wines put Vineyard Estate & BLENDSforward. However, the judges were pleasantly surprised at the Tasmania Pinot Grisquality level of many of the wines presented this time. Although 2011 HHH1/2 4 TASTEDthe sparklings and sauvignon blancs disappointed, there were some A well made Alsacian 3 AWARDEDsurprisingly good pinot gris/grigios and semillons. Across the board style with delightfulthe reds in various categories performed well, with special interest musky perfumed fruit Excellent blends wherein zinfandels and tempranillos. As usual, a very short performance that lifts the nose and the quality semillonfrom the cabernets and shiraz wines. fills the mouth with takes over. flavour. $34SPARKLING OTHER WHITE Madfish Sideways Brokenwood VARIETALS Western Australia De Bortoli Stanleigh Park11 TASTED & BLENDS Sauvignon Blanc Windy Peak King Vineyard Hunter4 AWARDED Semillon Valley Pinot Grigio Valley Semillon 8 TASTED 2011 HHH1/2 2011 HHH 2007 HHHHHA simple basic group of 0 AWARDED Toasty oak obvious on the Muted fruit aromas and Lovely toasty/steelywines with too many melony nose and nicely lingering tropical flavours citrus nose andgreen or broad styles. Disappointing! Too many rounded well balanced on a nicely textured beautifully aged fruit green or tired wines. citrus flavours with good palate. $14 giving soft citrus flavoursTorreblanca acid spine. $22 with the acidity stillCava Brut NV HHH SAUVIGNON Trentham fresh and lively. StillMusky sweetness to BLANC Ninth Island La Famiglia Pinot plenty of life ahead ofthe reserved nose with & BLENDS Tasmania Sauvignon Grigio 2011 HHH this one yet. $45similar flavours; delicate Blanc 2011 HHH Aromas of pears withyet lively. $29 15 TASTED Smells of capsicum and a pleasant perfumed Adina Vineyard 5 AWARDED green peas with nice lift and nice crisp green La Belle HeleneGartelmann Mudgee length of well balanced apple palate. $16 CD Hunter ValleyHunter Valley Few and far between. Too herbal flavours. $21.50 Semillon 2011 HHHHSparkling Shiraz many coarse fruit wines Simon Gilbert A crisp lively wine with2011 HHH or wines verging on being Brangayne of Orange Pinot Grigio subtle honey and lemonNose of dark fruit and just too plain simple. Orange Sauvignon 2011 HHH aromas and herbalchocolate. Palate has Blanc 2011 HHH Dry aperitif style with fruit flavours. Lots ofslightly lean fruit and Silkwood Pemberton Pungent tropical bouquet a hint of pears on the potential - should agesubtle tannins. $35 Western Australia and zesty dry/sour palate green apple nose and very well. 3-5 $20 Sauvignon Blanc with lively acidity. $22 similar palate. $22Robert Channon 2011 HHH1/2Wines Singing Delicately perfumed PINOT GRIS/ RIESLINGLake Sparkling slightly tropical nose. GRIGIOChardonnay Nice intensity of citrus 5 TASTED2009 HHH flavours supported by 6 TASTED 2 AWARDEDToasty developed soft subtle acidity. $18 5 AWARDEDfruit aromas and tart A couple of pleasantlemony palate with long Robert Oatley Solid class of good quaffing rieslings on offer!lingering flavours. $35 Wild Oats Western drinking wines. Australia Sauvignon Reillys Stolen BlockCastillo Perelada Blanc Semillon Willunga 100 Clare Valley RieslingCuvee Especial 2011 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Pinot 2011 HHHCava Brut Nature Delicate herbal notes lift Gris 2011 HHHH Candied lime aromas2009 HHH off the nose and a nicely Savoury edge to the with floral notes. HighLifted zesty bouquet perfumed clean fresh stonefruit aromas and acid palate but carriedand good depth of green citrus palate fills the nicely textured palate the fruit well. $18apple-like flavours with a mouth. $18.99 with crisp mouthfeel,clean finish. $31.29 good range of flavours Derwent Estate and plenty of acidity. $24 Riesling 2011 HHH A soft easy drinking wine with perfumed notes, a little musk and some sweetness. $25138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

w iwninee &&spsiript iinrsiidter itnasstini dg neerwtraelsetaisnesgBarossa Valley Hillcrest Premium After Hours Margaret a dropWine’s justEstate Entourage Yarra Valley River ChardonnayBarossa Semillon Chardonnay 2011 HHH in our bottle.Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHH Nutty almond characters2011 HHH1/2 A complex and slightly on the nose and a The experienced DW teamHints of sweet pineapple developed style with pleasant 'slippery' also possesses outstandingon the nose with fresh lovely honeyed/buttery tropical palate. $19 expertise in:lively tropical flavours characters but still has • Agribusinessblending with some freshness and vibrancy Ceres Bridge Estate • Commercial Disputes & Insolvencycitrus characters. $16 with nice level of Geelong Chardonnay • Competition & Consumer Law acidity. $60 2011 HHH • Corporate & CommercialCHARDONNAY Alkoomi Frankland Subtle smoky mine rally • Franchising River Chardonnay aromas and a fresh flinty • Insurance29 TASTED 2011 HHH1/2 palate with nice dry • IP & Technology18 AWARDED Lifted youthful sweet white flavours. $20 • International Trade fruit bouquet with • Personal Injury LawSolid class of some very delicate tropical and Adina Vineyard • Propertygood drinking wines. The stone fruit flavours that Clare Terese Hunter • Self Insurance, Workerstrend is now to leaner are soft and round in the Valley Chardonnayacid wines with less oak mouth. $14 2011 HHH Compensation & Workplace Lawaddition. Well done! Hunter's Jane Pleasant lemony/ • Taxation & Revenue Hunter Marlborough lavender characters on • Wills, EstatesCeres Bridge Estate Chardonnay the nose and warmGeelong Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 flavoursome palate. $25 & Business Succession2010 HHHH1/2 Complex citrus sorbet • Wine & Hospitality.Peachy nose just starting nose and long lingering McGuigan The To arrange a confidential chat,to develop. Peaches lively tropical fruit palate Shortlist Adelaide call DW today on 08 8410 2555.also dominate the with good level of citrus Hills Chardonnaypalate which shows characters. $19.90 2011 HHH Kings Chamberssome formidable but Balgownie Estate Nose not giving much 320 King William Streetbalanced acidity. A hint Chardonnay away but has a lively lean Adelaide SA 5000of age developing adding 2010 HHH1/2 steely lemon palate. $25 [email protected]. $18 A big peaches and cream www.donaldsonwalsh.com.au style of chardonnay Willespie Old SchoolBuller Beverford King with lovely toasty aged ChardonnayValley Chardonnay characters and powerful 2011 HHH2011 HHHH nuttiness. $45 Lifted creamy oakNice buttery/butterscotch Aussie Farmers and fresh cut applecharacters to the oaky Direct Whip Cracker characters on both nosenose with rich flavours Margaret River and palate. $25that linger across the Chardonnaypalate and into a lovely 2009 HHH1/2 Bethany Barossasoft finish. $15 A nicely balanced Chardonnay well integrated wine 2010 HHHBimbadgen Estate with pleasant green Smells of figs andHunter Valley herbaceous/capsicum- bananas with nice fruit/Chardonnay like characters. $19.99 acid combination on the2011 HHHH Forester Estate palate. $20A faint touch of tropical Margaret Riverfruits on the nose but Chardonnay Simon Gilbertwith a big flavour profile 2011 HHH Orange Chardonnaythat builds through the Toasty nose with 2009 HHHmid palate and into a overtones of honeyed fruit Nose of honey and toastlong lingering finish. $22 and great flavours on the with delicate lingering luscious palate. $37.99 flavours and a creamyChalice Bridge The De Bortoli texture. $30Quest Margaret Windy Peak YarraRiver Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay ROSÉ2010 HHHH 2011 HHH'Moody' oak/fruit aromas Smells of marzipan and 3 TASTEDand a creamy textured stonefruits and has vibrant 2 AWARDEDpalate-slightly warm with a flavours with a healthygood length and depth of amount of acid. $14 One old style andvarietal flavours. $25.95 one new one - both quite different. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 139

NEW RELEASESBarossa Valley Estate Koonara Bay of Silkwood By Jingo Adelaide Caught Red HandedEntourage Barossa Apostles Mt Gambier Pemberton Western Hills Zinfandel Grenache 2011 HHHRosé 2012 HHH Geelong Pinot Noir Australia Zinfandel 2008 HHH1/2 A lovely combination ofLovely iridescent pink 2010 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Spicy herbal bouquet raspberries, licorice andwine with sweet Subtle earthy cherry Pleasant briary aromas and interesting chocolaty herbs with some wellraspberry lolly nose and aromas and very well with some sweet flavours with great acid rounded tannins. $25palate; a touch earthy. $16 integrated palate with medicinal/herbal elements balance on the quite 'sensuous' flavours. $24 and a powerful spicy plum simple palate. $42 Te Aro Estate TwoYarrawood Tall Tales pudding of a palate with Charlies BarossaYarra Valley Rosé OTHER big soft tannins and a 1847 Wines Petit G.S.M. 2010 HHH2010 HHH RED VARIETALS warming finish. $15 Verdot 2007 HHH1/2 A well balanced nicelyTangerine hues with a & BLENDS 919 Wines South Velvety blackcurrant textured wine withslightly perfumed nose Australia Durif nose and formic acid reserved dark cherryand soft fruit flavours. 12 TASTED 2010 HHHH notes. Palate developing fruit and minty/herbalAt its peak now. $19 8 AWARDED A big wine. Dense nicely with lingering dark notes. $22 Some excellent alternative bouquet of spicy earth fruits. Has character. $35PINOT NOIR styles here and across and stewed fruit with a Reillys Old Bush a number of different big warm palate full of Tenafeate Creek Vine Dry Land Clare8 TASTED varietals. Give them a go. dark berry flavours and Basket Press One Valley Grenache4 AWARDED grippy tannins. $50 Tree Hill Nebbiolo Shiraz 2008 HHH By Jingo Adelaide 2010 HHH Earthy oaky style. SlightA mixed bag - some Hills Montepulciano By Jingo Adelaide Pungent nose, \"Smells medicinal character towinemakers knew what Zinfandel Hills Montepulciano like chocolate freckles\". the nose and sweetthey were doing while 2009 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH Nicely weighted palate. herbal flavours. $21others had no idea! A lovely soft wine Has a minty menthol lift Fine tannins. $35 offering an attractive to the earthy fruit nose SANGIOVESEPlantagenet Mount combination of dark and palate has loads of All Saints Estate & BLENDSBarker Western berry fruit, black pepper savoury flavours leading Family Cellar DurifAustralia Pinot Noir notes, Maraschino on to a big soft tannic 2009 HHH 5 TASTED2010 HHH1/2 cherries and lifted spicy finish. $55 A big tannic number full 2 AWARDEDSmells of wild berries characters. $48 of earthy red berry fruitand oak with some and balanced by a strong A few winemakersnice lingering dark spine of acid. $60 are now beginningcherry flavours on the to understand thesesoft supple and nicely GRENACHE Mediterranean varietals.weighted palate. $45 & BLENDS Zonte's FootstepPenfolds Bin 23 5 TASTED Canto Di LagoPinot Noir 2011 HHH 4 AWARDED Adelaide SangioveseEasy drinking 'entry' Barbera 2011 HHH1/2level pinot with spiced/ Solid interesting wines Spicy peppery nose andsavoury fruit and some with that herbal edge that a touch savoury withcharry oak coming makes them different. similar characters onthrough. $40 the lively palate with Caught Red its well defined softCeres Bridge Estate Handed Grenache tannins. $19.95Geelong Pinot Noir Shiraz NV HHH1/22010 HHH An easy drinking style Tenafeate CreekNice varietal characters with perfumed raspberry Basket Press Oneof spices and plums on aromas and sweet dark Tree Hill Sangiovesethe nose and palate with berry flavours with a fine 2011 HHH1/2an earthy note. $18 line of tannins. $25 Some attractive earthy spicy aromas on the nose and pleasant earthy flavours with nice soft tannin background. $20JUDGES Peter Simic Martin Abbott Wes Pearson Editor/publisher Winestate Owner Quirke Workplace Technical Officer at the Magazine. More than 35 years’ Services offering wine Australian Wine Research experience in the wine industry. education and hospitality Institute and part of the Formerly founding publisher consultancy. 25 years in Sensory Team Panel. of the first US colour wine the Australian hospitality Formerly winemaker at magazine, manager of the SA industry. Formerly State Pirramimma and vintaged at Wine Information Bureau, and Manager of National Leoville Las Cases. 15 years wine educator with Regency Liquor Company. food & beverage experience. College, in SA. Also a regular wine commentator on national radio and television programs.140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingTEMPRANILLO Pindarie Black Winter Creek& BLENDS Hinge Reserve Fiddlesticks Merlot Barossa Tempranillo 2011 HHH1/26 TASTED 2010 HHH Savoury earthy aromas5 AWARDED Earthy cherry bouquet with a minty edge with some spicy oak and good licorice andA strong class and and big youthful cherry aniseed-like flavours withagain it looks like the flavours. $55 a delicate finish. $15winemakers are reallybeginning to understand MERLOT CABERNETthis European variety. BLENDS 5 TASTEDEmilio Moro 4 AWARDED 9 TASTEDFinca Resalso 7 AWARDEDSpain Tempranillo A strong class with nice2010 HHHH1/2 varietal intensity coming A consistent group ofA big wine without being through. \"Restraint wines. \"These seemedclumsy and showing was used here rather to all be made in a similarintense brooding savoury than over-ripening the style with leaner sweetaromas and lovely fruit grapes\", suggested fruit and seasoned oakon the palate with a one judge. Some rather than new oak\",touch of earthiness and excellent winemaking. noted one judge.juicy tannins. A keeper. Four Sisters Merlot Windows Estate 5+ $27.42 2010 HHHH1/2 Basket Pressed Soft integrated Margaret RiverPindarie Bar Rossa blackcurrant aromas Cabernet MerlotBarossa Tempranillo with some nice 2010 HHHHSangiovese Shiraz earthiness showing. A tobacco and cassis2011 HHHH Fleshy in the mouth fruit nose leading onBig floral lift to the with good concentration to a delicious sweetbramble fruit nose and of blackcurrant and blackberry palatesome lovely long lingering mulberry fruit flavours. showing good acid andfruit flavours on a bright fine drying tannins. $28and vibrant palate. Should 3-5 $15.65age well. $23 Barossa Valley Majella Coonawarra Estate EntourageArtadi Estate Rioja Merlot 2010 HHHH Barossa CabernetSpain Tempranillo Notes of violets and Merlot 2009 HHHH2009 HHHH lavender sitting on top Oak driven nose withVibrant lifted spicy/ of savoury fruit aromas. nice underlying red fruitsavoury bouquet Lovely licorice and dark aromas. Lovely softand lovely depth of chocolate-like flavours sweet berry fruit flavoursvarietal flavours. with drying tannins. with a big astringent\"New world takes on finish. Just needs time.old world\", commented 3-5 $28one judge. $33 3-5 $16 Hillcrest PremiumAntidoto Yarra Valley Merlot Plantagenet OmrahRibera Del Duero 2010 HHHH Great SouthernSpain Tempranillo Meaty black olive nose Western Australia2009 HHH1/2 and olive tapenade-like Cabernet MerlotMeaty herbal aromas characters showing on 2010 HHH1/2with licorice notes and the palate with some A big powerful wine'slurpy' sweet fruit very nice tannins in with subtle chocolatyflavours on a very well support. $60 blackcurrant aromas andconstructed palate. $46 nicely balanced palate of soft varietal fruits. $18Steve Warrick Silkwood PembertonDirect marketer and wine Western Australiaconsultant. Formerly sales Cabernet Merlotand marketing manager 2010 HHHfor the Hamilton Wine Chocolaty nose and fullGroup. 10 years’ experience soft and fleshy palate withworking in McLaren Vale, dark berry flavours. $15Coonawarra and theAdelaide Hills. Has judged atthe Adelaide, McLaren Valeand Hobart wine shows. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141

NEW RELEASES Chateau Tanunda Barossa Tower142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHH Meaty aromas with a touch of mint and nice depth of rich fruit/oak flavours. $18 Brangayne of Orange Tristan Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Merlot 2010 HHH A moody nose of chocolate and berries with a soft mouthfilling sweet fruit palate. $30 d'Arenberg The Wine Men of Gotham Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale 2011 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon A drink now cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot made in an approachable 2008 HHH style. Pleasant berry Complex mix of aromas mix with dried herbaceousness, herbs and some doughy dark fruits and some characters with a sweet meatiness with big spicy varietal palate. $9.99 tannins. $32 Yarrawood CABERNET SAUVIGNON 21 TASTED 18 AWARDED Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon An excellent solid and 2008 HHHH1/2 consistent class. Subtle minty/earthy Lots to like for drinking cabernet fruit aromas with now or potential for some dusty oak. Lovely further ageing. big powerful flavours without being over-the -top and a long delicate Te Aro Estate The finish. 5+ $18 Pump Jack Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHHH Cooks Lot Orange An elegant cabernet with Cabernet Sauvignon lovely lifted earthy dark 2011 HHHH chocolate aromas and a Meaty/savoury aromas bright and lively palate and a good depth of with generous amount elegant young cassis of cassis and berry fruit fruit flavours on the flavours and good tannin nicely structured and well structure. 5+ $28 balanced palate. $20 Pindarie Barossa Reillys Stolen Cabernet Sauvignon Block Clare Valley 2010 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Crimson wine with 2010 HHHH lovely powerful varietal Dark red/purple wine fruit reminiscent of dense dark chocolate currants and spicy aromas and lovely depth blueberries and some of oak and berry fruit well handled oak to flavours with a long and balance. Lively acid mid- warming finish. $18 palate and impressive length. 3-5 $23

wine & spirit insider tastingSirromet 820 Above Tenafeate CreekVineyard Selection Basket Press OneGranite Belt Tree Hill CabernetCabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2010 HHH2010 HHHH Big grippy tannicAn elegant wine with a wine with dense darkslight licorice accent to blackberry fruit andthe nose and lovely olive some great oak. $25tapenade-like palatethat fills the mouth with Windows Estateflavour. $18 Basket PressedKalleske Margaret RiverMerchant Barossa Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH2010 HHHH Smells of capsicum,Interesting green bean- herbs and spices withlike aromas with a touch sweet blackberry flavoursof smoky oak. Excellent and subtle tannins. $35palate - full and warmwith sweet cassis fruit All Saints Estateflavours. $28 Cabernet SauvignonBrangayne of Orange 2009 HHHCabernet Sauvignon Lifted Sarsaparilla/cola2010 HHHH aromas and licorice/Wild berries on the nose aniseed flavours withwith a eucalypt/menthol chewy oak tannins. $28lift and 'slurpable' juicyfruit flavours with lovely Plantagenet Mountlicorice notes and Barker Westernelegant tannins. $32 Australia CabernetMajella Coonawarra Sauvignon 2009 HHHCabernet Sauvignon Earthy herbaceous2010 HHHH bouquet with aBrooding chocolaty nose blackberry and oakwith a minty overlay palate and delicatelyand powerful dark berry structured tannins. $44flavours with big tanninsand unobtrusive use of The Colonial Estateoak. 3-5 $33 Exile BarossaPatrick of Cabernet SauvignonCoonawarra 2009 HHHHome Block Slight leathery nose andCabernet Sauvignon good balance of sweet2008 HHH1/2 berry fruit flavours. EasyOne for the cellar! to drink. $220A beautifully balancedwine with a strong oak SHIRAZpresence and some BLENDSlovely varietal fruitcharacters. $39 15 TASTEDBremerton Coulthard 12 AWARDEDLanghorne CreekCabernet Sauvignon The judges found these2010 HHH blends to be consistentSmells of licorice without being greatand dried herbs; although they were stillsimilar characters pretty good.on the palate. Goodcommercial wine. $22 Rosemount EstateFour Sisters Central Shiraz CabernetVictoria Cabernet 2011 HHH1/2Sauvignon 2010 HHH A pleasant easy to drinkNice cola-like aromas; wine with bright liftedplenty of dark berry dark berry varietal fruitnotes. Beautifully and nice suggestion ofbalanced cool climate licorice straps. $11.99palate. $15.65 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 143

NEW RELEASES Jacob's Creek Alkoomi Frankland St Hugo River Shiraz Viognier A‘ Shiraz Cabernet 2010 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 Strong floral-like elements r Lively leafy aromas with to the nose and some rich l a touch of mint and a fruit cake-like flavours. e dry/sour cherry palate q with a delicate tannin 5+ $20 u structure. $49.99 i n Thicker Than Water Shiraz Grenache WINES WITH CHARACTER 2009 HHH1/2 High acid wine with fresh e colour & character berry fruits - some spices and licorice and good of wines from the nest level of sweet oak. Has regions in South Australia. potential. 5+ $68 WWW.ARLEQUINWINES.COM.AU Kulara Estate Lightning Creek144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Shiraz Cabernet 2010 HHH Nice cedary oak nose; a touch meaty with intense earthy fruit flavours. $6.99 Wine Men of Gotham Shiraz Grenache 2011 HHH An older style crowd pleaser with generous cherry and strawberry fruit characters. $9.99 Chateau Tanunda Barossa Tower Shiraz Primitivo 2010 HHH Subtle leathery touches to the dark berry nose and savoury herbal flavours. $18 Naked Run Hill 5 Stonyfell The Cellars Clare Valley Shiraz Langhorne Creek Cabernet 2010 HHH Shiraz Cabernet Red fruit aromas; some 2010 HHH leafiness and a big Fruity aromas with tannic palate rich with some spice and well berry fruits. $18 blended dry red-like flavours. $14.99

wine & spirit insider tastingSirromet SevenScenes SignatureCollection GraniteBelt Shiraz Viognier2010 HHHBright lifted spicy/peppery bouquet andgood depth of varietalflavours. 5+ $27Saddler's CreekWines BluegrassThe Blend ShirazCabernet 2010 HHHBig oaky nose withexcellent spicy fruitflavours and a greattannin/acid balance. $35Sirromet Le Sauvage\"The Wild\" GraniteBelt Shiraz Viognier2010 HHHBrooding licoricey aromasand well balanced tarry Main & Cherryfruit palate. One for the First Pickingcellar. 5+ $55 Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2SHIRAZ Slightly broad shiraz fruit2011 - 2010 and savoury nose with a hint of mint and lovely35 TASTED concentration and balance of choc-mint-like flavours31 AWARDED with the vibrant raspberry- like varietal fruit. $25An excellent class from agreat vintage. \"There is apurity of fruit and vibrancyrunning through the wholeclass\", said one judge.Great consistency here.Pepperwood EstatePremium CapelWestern AustraliaShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2A more elegant spicystyle of shiraz with lovelysubtle fruit aromas and adash of pepper. Excellentpalate length with superbdark fruit characters andgrippy tannins. Give it 10years! $20Bird In Hand Nest McLaren ValeEgg Adelaide Hills III Associates GiantShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Squid Ink ReserveA youthful wine with Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2excellent persistence and Smells of fruitcake anddepth of pristine varietal shortbread according tofruit reminiscent of plums one judge! Palate is tightlyand mulberries and packed with elegant darklayered with lovely tarry/ varietal fruit and wellearthy elements. $85 balanced by appropriate use of oak. $216 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 145

NEW RELEASESBremerton Selkirk Evans & Tate Barossa Valley EstateLanghorne Creek Metricup Road Entourage BarossaShiraz 2010 HHHH Margaret River Shiraz 2010 HHHEarthy dark berry Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Nicely integrated lingeringbouquet with cola Lovely layers of dark blackberry aromasnotes. Palate has lovely sweet varietal fruit with and flavours. Needsfreshness and depth mouth puckering tannins. decanting. 5+ $16of sweet varietal fruit Good palate length withflavours with cedary oak a drying finish. $22.50 Silkwood Pembertonto balance. 5+ $22 Taylors Promised Western Australia Land South Australia Shiraz 2010 HHHChateau Tanunda Shiraz 2011 HHH Lots of interest hereBarossa Tower A pleasant easy drinking with lovely tarry oakShiraz 2010 HHHH fruit bomb with spicy layered over savouryChocolaty nose with a elements and nice berry fruits. $16big spearmint lift and the freshness. $13spearmint continuing Cooks Lot Orange Plantagenet Omrahon to the supple fleshy Shiraz 2011 HHH Great Southernpalate that has plenty of Medicinal/herbal aromas Western Australiaflavour. $18 with a dash of pepper Shiraz 2010 HHH and a mid-weight Juicy berry aromas andZonte's Foostep Koonara Ezra's Gift Thicker Than Water youthful fruit palate. $20 a fleshy palate with niceLake Doctor Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHH concentration of fruit/Langhorne Creek 2010 HHHH Smoky oak and ripe oak flavours. $18Shiraz 2010 HHHH Powerful spearmint mocha fruit charactersLifted chocolaty fruit aromas on top of the on nose and palate. Schild Estatearomas and a super varietal fruit and youthful Good concentration of Premium Barossaconcentration and stonefruit flavours rich varietal fruit, oak and Shiraz 2010 HHHabundance of lovely edged with more of the savoury overtones. $68 Lovely dark juicy varietallicorice and sweet spearmint characters. $24 Tim Smith Wines fruit characters withstonefruit flavours. $19.95 McLaren Vale Barossa Shiraz leafy menthol elements III Associates 2010 HHHH and chocolaty notes. $20Zonte's Foostep Squid Ink Reserve A pleasant earthinessChocolate Factory Shiraz 2010 HHHH to the oak driven nose Naked RunMcLaren Vale Shiraz A lovely rich, concentrated and a syrupy ripe palate; BWC Barossa Shiraz2010 HHHH full flavoured wine with good depth and length of 2010 HHHGood depth of ripe fruit the creamy soft oak sweet varietal fruit with Sweet dark berry nosearomas. Palate has well balanced by some some chewy oak. $36 and a soft, well roundedlovely balance of licorice good varietal fruit. The Colonial Estate and nicely balancedand berry flavours with Has length. $55 Exile Barossa Shiraz varietal palate. $22quite a grippy tannin 2010 HHHHbackbone. $19.95 Smells of raspberries Koonara The and blackberries with a SeductressCarmine's Hillside supple and full flavoured Flametree Coonawarra ShirazShiraz 2010 HHHH palate. Nice balance of 2010 HHHA dark berry bouquet sweet cedar oak and Simple fruit/oak combowith a nice spicy lift and ripe fruit. $220 on the nose and nicea very youthful fruity Trentham Shiraz depth and intensity ofpalate with good use 2010 HHH1/2 ripe fruit flavours. $24of oak and nice tannin Sweetish dark berrystructure. $20 nose leads to a soft Margaret River Yarrawood rounded palate that is Shiraz 2011 HHH Tall Tales Yarra ValleyBalgownie Estate brimming over with Deep crimson wine Shiraz 2010 HHHBlack Label Shiraz pure raspberry-like fruit with subdued aromas An attractive quaffer2010 HHHH flavours. $14 CD and velvety soft fruit with youthful varietalA delightfully pretty J&J Vineyards palate. 3-5 $24 fruit well integrated withwine with perfumed McLaren Vale Shiraz the oak. $25fruit nose and spicy 2010 HHH1/2 Four Sisters Shirazfruit flavours showing a Juicy dark berry nose 2010 HHH Brangayne of Orangesavoury edge and a soft and nice flesh to the soft A very pleasant, Shiraz 2010 HHHtannin finish. $24 sweet fruit palate that well balanced, nicely Slight herbal fruit on the has youth and balance. structured wine that's nose and lovely texturedMajella Coonawarra more than just a quaffer. palate with ripe raspberryShiraz 2010 HHHH 3-5 $14.90 fruit flavours. $32Ripe and chocolaty 5+ $15.65on the creamy noseand soft in the mouthwith lovely supplefruit characters and'seductive' tannins. $30146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSHIRAZ Reillys Stolen Block Schild Estate2009 & OLDER Clare Valley Shiraz Ben Schild 2009 HHH1/2 Reserve Barossa26 TASTED Interesting brambly/ Shiraz 2008 HHH17 AWARDED raspberry aromas and \"A meal in itself\" with itsA very solid class. Some medium bodied palate intense ripe stonefruits,developing nicely with - creamy in the mouth mocha and licoriceoverall good oak balance with soft sweet fruit characters. $30to match the fruit. Most flavours. $18 1847 Wines Pappy'sof these are very good Amphora Limited Paddock Shirazdrinking now but will Release Adelaide Hills 2007 HHHcontinue to age for the Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Subtle mature aromasnext few years. A mellow easy drinking and nicely aged palate of and very flavoursome good soft oak and sweetPatrick Estate Grown shiraz with earthy red fruit. $35Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 fruit that has slightlyA supple medium bodied stewed characters. $38 SWEET WHITEshiraz with lovely sweet Reschke Bull Trader & FORTIFIEDand slightly herbal fruit Coonawarra Shirazaromas with a touch of 2008 HHH1/2 4 TASTEDmocha and excellent A seamless and mellowmocha oak and sweet wine that is at its peak 2 AWARDEDvarietal fruit flavours. $29 and full of intenseBremerton Old Adam Thicker Than Water attractive chocolaty plum Koonara Angel's Two extremes here; aLanghorne Creek Shiraz 2008 HHHH characters. $23 Peak Coonawarra light alcohol sweetie andShiraz 2009 HHHH Ripe creamy bouquet Winter Creek Shiraz 2009 HHH a richer, more alcoholicVery attractive fruit with seasoned oak Wild Street A typical cool climate fortified wine.cake aromas with a characters and a complex Southern Barossa shiraz with leafy herbalnice touch of tarry-like range of flavours on Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 fruit nicely balanced by Buller Beverfordoak and lovely depth the nicely textured and Interesting creamy toasty oak. $17 Moscato Rossoand length of chocolaty slightly warm palate. $68 doughy-like aromas with Aussie Farmers 2011 HHHmocha flavours. $50 Koonara Ezra's Gift a slight medicinal touch Direct Whip Powerful sweet bouquetPlantagenet Mount Coonawarra Shiraz and a supple sweet dark Cracker Barossa and obvious sweetBarker Western 2009 HHH1/2 fruit palate. $40 Shiraz 2009 HHH shiraz flavours. VeryAustralia Shiraz Intense plum fruit Genders McLaren Smells like sweet approachable style. $132009 HHHH nose with charry oak Park McLaren Vale cashews with niceVery cool climate in style - overtones and excellent Shiraz 2005 HHH1/2 balance of sour cherry and Kalleske J.M.Kvery Rhonish. Has a lovely depth of vibrant A mature tarry style charry oak flavours. $19.99 Barossa Shiraz VPsteely fruit nose and dark stonefruit flavours with a with big ripe aromas and Te Aro Estate 2009 (375ml) HHHcharry oak flavours with tannic finish. $24 a mouthful of big soft The Charred Door Very sweet muscatslightly spicy fruit laying fruit flavours with huge Barossa Shiraz grape aromas andon top. $45 tannin structure. $40 2008 HHH flavours with nice acid Madfish Grandstand Soft easy drinker and slight grip. $23 Shiraz 2009 HHH with lovely varietal Subdued aromas; hints fruit expression of of fruit and oak with a raspberries and red fleshy dry red palate. $17 cherries. $28 Patrick of Coonawarra STAR RATINGS  Mother of Pearl Shiraz 2009 HHH Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Pleasant subtle tarry excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. red fruit nose and dark All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry fruit flavours with drying professionals and are compared in peer oak. $19 classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 147

TOP 40Craggy Range Kidnappers Richard Hamilton Almond Richard Hamilton Mr V Scarpantoni EstateVineyard Hawkes's Bay Grove McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Marsanne McLaren ValeChardonnay 2011 Chardonnay 2011 Rousanne Viognier 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2011Grown near the coast at Smells of freshly baked bread Spicy nose with a lavender lift Obvious pungent varietalTe Awanga, this wine is a lightly with some floral overtones and and melons and peaches on the aromas and luscious, compactwooded style, fermented in with a complex and alluring palate. Good acid length. $15.50 palate with tropical notes. $18tanks and barrels. Mouthfilling, stone fruit palate. $15.50fresh and citrusy, with a very Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Scarpantoni Estate Winessubtle seasoning of oak, it’s a Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard Hamilton (08) 8383 0186good food wine – crisp, refined, Richard Hamilton (08) 8323 8830 scarpantoni.wines @ bigpond.com.audry and sustained. $24.95 (NZD) (08) 8323 8830 info @ leconfieldwines.com www.scarpantoni-wines.com.au info @ leconfieldwines.com www.leconfieldwines.comCraggy Range Vineyards Ltd www.leconfieldwines.com+64 6 833 7785info @ craggyrange.comwww.craggyrange.comBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. $25 NZD & UNDER148 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Silkwood Pemberton Silkwood Pemberton Silkwood Pemberton Silkwood PembertonWestern Australia Western Australia Western Australia Western AustraliaSauvignon Blanc 2011 Zinfandel 2010 Cabernet Merlot 2010 Shiraz 2010Delicately perfumed slightly Pleasant briary aromas with Chocolaty nose and full soft Lots of interest here withtropical nose. Nice intensity of some sweet medicinal/herbal and fleshy palate with dark lovely tarry oak layered overcitrus flavours supported by elements and a powerful spicy berry flavours. $15 savoury berry fruits. $16soft subtle acidity. $18 plum pudding of a palate with big soft tannins and a warming Silkwood Wines Silkwood WinesSilkwood Wines finish. $15 (08) 9758 7799 (08) 9758 7799(08) 9758 7799 renee @ silk woodwines.com.au renee @ silk woodwines.com.aurenee @ silk woodwines.com.au Silkwood Wines www.silkwoodwines.com.au www.silkwoodwines.com.auwww.silkwoodwines.com.au (08) 9758 7799 renee @ silk woodwines.com.au www.silkwoodwines.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149

TOP 40Heathridge Margaret Night Harvest Margaret Spy Valley Marlborough Pirramimma KatungaRiver Merlot 2010 River Merlot 2010 Merlot Malbec 2010 McLaren Vale Grenache Tannat Shiraz 2007Complex aromas - oak quite Subtle cherry bouquet; Dark, purple-flushed blendobvious. Lovely, well-made, a touch herbal with a sweet, of merlot (84%) and malbec A dense, dark and well-big velvety palate. $13.10 soft plum palate. Lots of oak. (16%), matured for over a year structured wine with plenty of in French oak casks. Brambly flavour persistence. $20 CDGreenpiper Wine Distributors 3-5 $15.54 and spicy, with loads of flavour.(08) 9756 7813 Fresh,youthful, moderately Pirramimma/admin @ greenpiper.com.au Greenpiper Wine Distributors complex style, with hints of Geoff Johnston Wines Pty Ltdwww.greenpiper.com.au (08) 9756 7813 coffee and herbs, and firm (08) 8323 8205 admin @ greenpiper.com.au underlying tanin. $22.95 (NZD) info @ pirramimma.com.au www.greenpiper.com.au www.pirramimma.com.au Spy Valley Wines +64 3 572 9840 info @ spy valley.co.nz www.spyvalleywine.co.nz www.alfatek.com.au Phone: 0397205344 Let Temp Detector keep tabs on your liquid investment An affordable, intelligent device that keeps track of your wine storage temperature around the clock150 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER