Winestate Magazine July August 2012

WINE AT THE MOVIESIN ENTERTAINMENT TODAY A CABERNET CONNECTION IS AS NECESSARY AN ACCESSORY AS A SEX TAPE, A STINT IN REHAB AND A BENETTON OF ADOPTED BABIES.than owning an oil well in Uzbekistan or a cope with global warming. Vinosity can also The James Bond film franchise is a winesweatshop in Santiago. And stunt doubles be born of necessity. When Orson Welles category on its own. In the first Ian Flemingstand in during action scenes, like picking, was asked why an actor of his Citizen novel, Bond invented a dry martini he namedpruning and winemaking. Kane calibre and stature was reduced to the Vesper - three measures of gin, one of spruiking Spanish sherry on television his vodka, a splash of citrusy Kina Lillet, shaken Gérard Depardieu, who has appeared answer was as dry as a flor fino: “Do you until ice-cold and served with a long, thinin every French film since the Lumière know what alimony costs these days?”. slice of lemon peel in a deep champagnebrothers invented the cinématographe in goblet. That's about five standard drinks1895, wields winemaking influence in three Rarely is wine integral to a film and even in one aperitif. No wonder he crashed soFrench regions and seven countries. By then it is often what Alfred Hitchcock called many cars. In From Russia with Love, Bondthe look of him lately he is his own biggest a ‘MacGuffin' - a plot device that purports identified a double agent because hecustomer after Belgium. Depardieu says to be pertinent to the plot, but isn’t - like the ordered red wine with fish. If you can namehe prefers winemakers to film directors glowing briefcase in Pulp Fiction. Perhaps the wine and the fish you are as much inbecause “they don’t talk as much”, that wine loses its mystique on screen or simply need of intervention as I am. James Bondwine doesn’t really count as alcohol and can’t convey the sensory experience via may be a ruthless killer, a compulsivethat he drinks five or six bottles a day sound and light. Usually the wines sipped womaniser and a man’s man, but he is anwhen troubled and a moderate three or and served in movies are either anonymous effete tosser when it comes to vintages,four “when times are sunnier”. How will he or paid product placement. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 51

wine temperatures, sherry soleras and the that Hopkins dropped and smashed a bottleserving of sake at precisely 98.4 degrees of 1913 Dow’s Vintage Port. May be the onlyFahrenheit. There’s one in every wine time I ever wept in a movie.club. He’s forever fussing over whether theBollinger is a ’53 or a ’55 and fiddling about There are rare examples where winewith ice buckets. Low priorities when you’re is centre screen. Hitchcock’s Notoriousabout to be bisected by a laser, vivisected placed a pomaded Cary Grant cellar-deepby a shark or retrospected by Halle Berry. in Pommard. Bottle Shock dramatised theThe early films showed some respect for history-changing 1976 Judgement of Pariswhat Bond drank in the books, but he now when America first beat France at its ownchanges his champagne allegiance as often game on its own turf. Alan Rickman portrayedhe switches wrist watches, depending on real-life wine merchant Steven Spurrier asthe deal. In Casino Royale the new blonde Severus Snape in a ’70’s suit, and provedBond takes a quantum of solace from a that wine judging as a spectator sport isprominently positioned bottle of St-Emilion. as boring as a bottling line. Mondovino is aThe owner of the chateau described the hand-cranked documentary of a fermentingimpact on sales as “unbelievable”. Asked feud between implacable foes. Cloth-if his label would remain Bond’s bordeaux capped traditionalists defend ‘terroir', whichof choice in future, he responded, “Yes, as means wine should taste of dirt, against along as somebody doesn’t pay more than technocratic purveyor of ‘micro-oxygenation',we did”. The ‘Double O' number was once which makes French wines taste American.a licence to kill. Now it’s a liquor licence. A cheese-stealing dog steals the movie. Wine lovers are poorly served by Hollywood, Track down The Vintner’s Luck, thoughas some sour examples testify. Year of The with a title like that it was doomed from theComet was a romantic romp in internationalpursuit of a multi-magnum, 1811 ChateauLafite. The film proved as much a fizzer as the latest lame sequel of Halley’s Comet itself. In A Walk in the Clouds, Keanu Reeves battled a vineyard fire that looked more like the napalm strike in Apocalypse Now. A Fine Year was set in Provence but could have been anywhere, and Russel Crowe’s British accent sounded like a telephone had been thrown at it. In Blood and Wine, Jack Nicholson was supposed to be a wealthy wine seller butacted like a demonic drug dealer (on secondthoughts...). The recently unreleased Bloodinto Wine I have not seen and will not, but the promotional poster features a corkscrew attached to a knuckle duster. Sometimes they get it right. Whoever set designed the wine cellar for Remains of the Day knew their wines as well as Anthony Hopkins knew his lines. Playing the busiestof butlers, Hopkins faithfully fetchedfortified wines from downstairs to fortify theinternational intrigues upstairs. (Luckily forthe guests this predated his prediliction for ‘anice Chianti'.)Film critics completely missedthe central tragedy of this film. It was not thattrue love was standing right beside Hopkinsall along and he never noticed it, or that hisboss betrayed Britain to the Bosch. It was

Clockwise from left: Francis Ford Coppola - Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville, California. Gérard Depardieu - Chateau de Tigné, Tigne, France. David and Victoria Beckham - private vineyard in the Napa. Olivia Newton-John - Koala Blue Wines, South Australia. Dan Aykroyd - Dan Aykroyd Wines, Ontario, Canada. Scott Hicks - Yacca Paddock Vineyards, Adelaide Hills. Madonna - Ciccone Vineyard and Winery, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan.start. Vivid vineyard imagery saturates the Blanc drunk from a polystyrene cup. One DciwosAcwmwsoowipprlvwel.rleppwecedittrrrthomhiiiiitnnhzsiuoriweetgodunrisnwimtoinotpseaafeurwwstaWpirezjiuienm.weDnicndreeiVufoiengestcDmfsericrnahatot.amcgigamocato,uieonoscpo.tv.pmhtyryieTyieeogaochouiqgpfhenfuaMenaaTfizirirlzcroihesitsnyanoeotbeldnnapV,yaaolnriitcnnlvihdzcceitenenuceoaesrirlslatereaa:'cascarnytoodLivnfeitdttthyhteeers.screen, with gripping footage of grapes profanity in the film copped the blame for acrushed by foot and the participants in dramatic decline in sales of merlot. I suspect Who cares? Well, if you’re distractedmasked tastings actually wear masks. There the drop itself bears some responsibility for by the Romanee-Conti from a romanticgoes another Riedel. The film romanticises the drop, but the link is feasible. Singlet sales comedy you will care. Walt Disney19th century peasant life, but that’s what took a similar dive in 1934 when Clark Gable described cinematic sleight-of-handpeasants were for. It also shows how easy happened to remove his shirt in It Happened as “the plausible impossible”. We don’twinemaking is. All you need is a chiselled One Night and wasn't wearing one. mind mistakes in movies as long as wejaw, a determined gaze, a puffy shirt and don’t notice them and anachronisms arean angel to help out during vintage. We all Only wine tragics notice wine gaffes in acceptable if they are true to the genrecould have used one of those in 2011. movies, but they paid for their tickets, too, and don’t interrupt the flow. Audiences unless they’re sponsors. Edge of Darkness - forgave Spartacus speaking English but Sideways, the best of the bunch, expresses the infinitely superior original, without Mad Mel not for sporting a 1950’s flat top crewcut.the inherent incapacity of men to move - featured a nuclear fallout shelter, stocked For example, The Godfather was set in theforwards emotionally. Miles is the lonely and sealed during the Cuban Missile Crisis, 1940s but focused label spotters noticedguy who no one notices except when he and from which a First Growth Bordeaux is Italian wines bearing “DOC” stickers,talks and tastes wine. Only then does he unearthed and uncorked. Problem being the guarantees of origin not introduced untilcommand authority, attention and respect. wine was from the same year as the crisis, a 1963. As film critic Bill Collins insisted,You all know one, have met one or married vintage that would not have seen daylight for “It’s not trivia, it’s detail”.one. He brings his own personal gloom to another decade. Bordeaux doesn’t releasethe sunny cellar doors of California’s Santa wines the month they are made, and I doubtYnez Valley where he is semi-redeemed by even Beaujolais did back then. An otherwisea luminous Virginia Madsen, a self-inflicted impeccable script writer reached for hisspittoon and a solitary bottle of ’61 Cheval almanac, and goofed. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 53

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINThis month it’s all about Collingwood and taken by the essay they took the name and restaurant’s owners, Meaghan Gorski andFitzroy, neighbouring suburbs in Melbourne’s have adapted it to the 50-seat room where Paul and Linda Jones – who also own theinner-north where, despite already having a the menu is more refined. They’ll even take Brunswick Street Alimentari deli – this roomplethora of cafes and restaurants, have had bookings, something McConnell doesn’t do at sits where the music shop, The Last Recordadded interest from high-profile chefs and Cumulus Inc, or Golden Fields. 211 Gertrude Store, perched itself for the last 18 years.experienced players in the local industry who St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9417 7700. Another Paul is an accomplished chef, Linda hashave opened quality venues. The McConnell McConnell, Andrew’s younger brother Matt, been running the successful Alimentari for thebrothers, Andrew and Matt, have set up who owns the successful CBD tapas bar, last 13 years and has a keen eye for qualityat opposite ends of Fitzroy’s Gertrude St Bar Lourinha with his wife, Jo Gamvros and of produce and experience with coffeeand a smart little diner is drawing in crowds business partner Simon Benjamin Casa and staffing, while Gorski is a hospitalitydown Smith St in Collingwood. While we Ciuccio (Neopolitan dialect for Donkey), professional and an artist with a undeniabledon’t immediately think pub when we hear in Fitzroy. Opening the same week as your eye for detail. It was Gorski who drew thethe name Andrew McConnell, he is after all, brother on the same street simply had initial sketches for the room and handed thethe chef who has given Melbourne Cutler people wondering if Gertrude St should& Co, Golden Fields and Cumulus Inc, the become McConnell Boulevard (Andrew also ideas to artist David Murray, who built theBuilders Arms in Fitzroy is a good fit for him has Cutler & Co on the same strip). Jokes tabletops, bar and wooden panelling for thein its urban location and in his collaborating aside, this McConnell with Benjamin and walls. Once the enormous task of gutting thewith pub veteran from St Kilda’s The Prince Gamvros, has opened a venue with a strong building was achieved, the three partners setand Fitzroy’s The Commercial Club Hotel, Mediterranean slant to the menu, bar snacks about creating a room that is at once warmAnthony Hammond and former Cumulus and a dining area as well as private rooms and inviting, and enhanced by an aestheticInc head chef Joshua Murphy. Through and another bar area upstairs. The menu that oozes modernity with bare brick walls,the renovation and restructure of the old sees small tastes to share such as sardines industrial lightshades, thoughtfully placedbuilding, the trio has reintroduced us to the in saffron vinegar, crab-filled peppers and plant boxes and a long bar for enjoying anculture of the old-school pub. The Builders cold smoked ocean trout next to mains from ever-changing daily selection of antipasti.Arms is a beautiful old building that has been the grill, perhaps sweetbreads with honey and The antipasti, on display in the glass cabinetbrightened up and opened up with white cider vinegar or octopus tentacle. The “coal on the bar, supports a menu built around pit” section of the menu sees black angus the large wood-fired oven where fish of thewalls, a smart bar area, a bistro that holds 80 brisket or a tender suckling kid slow-cooked day (maybe a flounder) is roasted whole asinside and out, and a rotisserie in the back for at least six-hours and served with hot well as lamb shoulder served with garlic,garden that was custom-made for the pub. sauce and potatoes. Drinks are many and lemon and oregano. There are sound pastaFree range chicken and plump quails cook varied. A savvy wine list takes in much of Italy dishes, too - gnocchi with braised duck andslowly on the rotisserie that is fuelled by mallee and some interesting drops from Victoria. rosemary or handmade tortellini filled withroot, an intense, slow-burning root that imparts 15 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 8488 8150. chicken, spinach and ricotta and a succincta lovely flavour to the meat. The pub’s dining wine list to back up the seasonal menu. Withroom is the last thing to open in June. Called Smith St, Collingwood, the inner-northern all these new restaurants and bars, it is anMoon Under Water it is named after an essay suburb that used to be considered nothing exciting time on Smith St and for Melbourne’sby famous author George Orwell, written in but trouble, continues to flourish with the inner-north in general. 304 Smith St,1946 where Orwell describes his favourite opening of more cafes and a smart diner Collingwood; phone (03) 9417 7779.pub, called Moon Under Water, but admits called Gorski & Jones down near theits so perfect it doesn’t exist. The trio were so Johnston St intersection. Named after the Left: Builders Arms. Right: Gorski & Jones.54 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KINGEven with the rain pouring down in sheets, Chris Sharp, a former Codfather partner, at La Trattoria is tightly edited and very family-Matt Moran's revamp of the magical Prunier's has teamed with James Parry and Daniel friendly. You can bowl up here at 5.30pm ifsite - Chiswick - has the X-factor in spades. Puskas, both winners of the Josephine you want to feed the kids before putting themMany of the super-chef's faithful followers Pignolet Best Young Chef award. The to bed early. Most of the clientele, however,from ARIA now also eat at his Woollahra cosy location is a change of pace for are professionals - young and middle-aged -newbie. Locals and foodies from all over both 30-somethings who have worked in who come here to eat well-priced food that'sSydney have also helped to make Chiswick top-notch international kitchens. Parry at much better than they could cook at home.the city's must-experience restaurant. Copenhagen's world-beating Noma and We started with a caprese salad - a big ballAn open kitchen and a metal-topped bar Pukas at Alinea, in Chicago, and Sepia, of fresh-as mozzarella with vine-ripenedliven up the long corridor once left as Sydney's current restaurant of the year. tomatoes. Orrecchiete di Mamma is a solidempty space by Prunier's. An update that Parry and Puskas are following the paddock- pasta favourite and, as the name suggests,does much to add buzz to the restaurant's to-plate philosophy at their first signature is Giovanni's mother's recipe. Spinazzola'sgarden conservatory feel. There's nothing restaurant, using ingredients so fresh they trademark dish - slow-cooked, Roman-styletoo complicated about the food, either. Matt's need little enhancement. As you peruse the lamb with herbs, pangarattato and parmesan -dad, Jim, supplies the beef and lamb from menu, out comes “mascarpone” butter and has also made the cut at la Trattoria to attract ahis farm in Bathurst and the flavours of the house-made sourdough bread. We ordered new legion of fans. La Trattoria on Norton, 159prime meat are enhanced, not obscured, the six-course menu for $105 ($160 with Norton St, Leichhardt; phone (02) 9569 9994.by fresh herbs from the kitchen garden and matching wines), beginning with a nibblecrispy vegetables. Anyone who went to a plate of garden pickles, duck tongue and a An Italian theme runs through the culinaryboarding school usually runs a mile from knuckle sandwich (a pig's one). The follow- revamp of The Forresters hotel. Jamesanything called fish pie, but at Chiswick up dishes were brilliant, too - garden beans Miller and Jaime Wirth, the two youngthe golden, pastry-topped, seafood mix with soft cheese, crab, silky macadamia entrepreneurs who hauled such pubs asis the stuff of childhood fantasies. Other and camomile, snapper, pumpkin seed and the Norfolk, the Carrington and the Flinderssimple yet gorgeous mains include roast soft leeks, Suffolk leg of lamb and sweet into the 21st century, also hold sway here.chicken in spiced hay, crab and pea onions, and jersey milk ice-cream with burnt The menu is much more sophisticated thanrisotto and battered flathead fillets with butter. Sixpenny, 83 Percival Rd, Stanmore; the duo's other re-done pubs, even thoughtartare sauce. Sharing is the main eating phone (02) 9572 6660. a ’70’s playlist and Palm Springs stonetheme and the moreish nibbles centre onvitello tonnato “hamburgers”, rosemary flat The Norton Street eat strip in Leichhardt is decor dominates. Dan Corbett, formerly ofbread and pickled garden vegetables. If not as busy as it used to be, mainly because Quay and Quarter 21, has created a smartit's true that all millionaires love a baked it's so hard to park and the meter watchers Italian bistro menu and the daily meats are aapple then Moran delivers the sort of plainly are super-vigilant. So it's heartening to see highlight. Wednesday is beef night, Sundaycooked but flavourful food that hits the Giovanni Spinazzola and his wife, Cinzia, is pork night and so on. Whether you aremark in one of Sydney's most upmarket have bitten the bullet and opened such a great after flash-cooked spaghetti with tomatosuburbs. Chiswick, 65 Ocean St, Woollahra; little neighbourhood diner like La Trattoria on sauce for $7, a gourmet pizza, gnocchiphone (02) 8388 8688. Norton. Don't be mislead, though. Spinazzola duck ragu or rabbit risotto, it's your choice has manned the pans at some of Sydney's to eat-it-and-beat-it or linger longer. The The Codfather has moved to Glebe but top restaurants, including the Beresford, Forresters, corner Foveaux and Riley streets,there's a link to Sixpenny, the restaurant Bambini Trust and Da Gianni in Annandale, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9212 3035.that has taken its place in Stanmore village. his first chef/owner establishment. The menu Above: Matt Moran. Centre & below: Chiswick exterior and open kitchen. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 55

gBoeihsoianddgervweeryaitnsetory Peter Yealands has always dared to do things differently – to find a better way to get the best results; especially when the environment’s at stake. At Yealands Estate, home to one of the world’s first carboNZeroCert TM wineries, his innovative thinking in step with nature has already produced a host of award-winning wines. And we’re just getting started. Inspired to “think boldly, tread lightly and never say it can’t be done”, we’re tackling every aspect of premium wine production fromsoil care to packaging with eco-friendly options and a fair few clever solutions of our own. You can follow our mission to lead the world in sustainable wine production at www.yealands.co.nz

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS On the other side of town Lucky Lupitas, goal, rejecting the abuse and exploitation tucked away in a row of shops not far from of animals, yet at the same time producing Flinders Medical Centre, is also committed pizzas that would gladden the soul of any to the “genuine Mexican food” revolution Neapolitan. Their oven is wood fired and the instead of the more common Tex-Mex gloop. pizzas are made from authentic sourdough Lucky Lupitas’ style can be a bit casual that requires a 30 hour preparation. The best but its friendly atmosphere has quickly way to start is with a plate of mozzarella, won it a strong following and, anyway, the perhaps the squacquerone or the buffalo food is what it’s all about here with dishes mozzarella (from water buffalo that live on such as smoked chicken empanadas with chemical free pastures at Cairns), served roasted corn, green onion and guacamole on a bed of radicchio, herbs and olive oil. or a quesadilla with grilled chicken and mushrooms among the street food starters. There’s a range of just seven pizzas, but even the humble pizza margherita isThere’s a quiet Mexican revolution Among the main courses, the star dish is the given new status with organic san marzanohappening in Adelaide’s suburbs, with not wood smoked, slow cooked beef short ribs, tomato, buffalo mozzarella, organic extraa sombrero or pinata in sight but plenty which come with a choice of sauces the best virgin olive oil, home-grown basil and seaof margaritas, mescal and Mexican beer of which is a piquant chimichurri. The only salt – all quickly blasted at 450C to createto fuel the revolutionaries. Latest to open downside is they don’t take bookings, but a thin, crisp yet tender crust. Open lunchis Maiz and Mezcal whose only nod to it might be possible to ease the pain of any Friday, dinner Wednesday-Sunday.125Mexican kitsch is the life-sized stuffed wait for a table more palatable with a jug of Gilles St, Adelaide; phone (08) 7324 4215.donkey advertising its presence in the sweet prickly pear margarita. Open lunchstreet. Owners Ivan and Sonia Pichardo, and dinner Monday-Saturday. 1/4 Rupert That sets the bar high for the Pizza ewho arrived in Adelaide five years ago Ave, Bedford Park; phone (08) 8277 4004. Mozzarella Bar behind the Adelaide Townfrom Mexico, have set out to provide Hall, which features modern Italian styling,the authentic street food they remember Meanwhile the battle to claim the best pizza big windows, fresh crusty loaves and fatfrom home, which means the emphasis in town has seen two new entries to compete dried sausages hanging temptingly above.is on small, snacky dishes that in another with the tiny Est in East Terrace in the city. Pizza maker Alessandro Feleppa comescountry might be called tapas, with not a Etica Ethical Pizzeria e Mozzarella Bar in direct from Naples and clearly knows how toplate of chilli con carne in sight. It’s a great Gilles St (underneath the former Glo Bo’s work his wood oven. All eight pizza choicesway to eat, snacking on soft tacos topped premises for those with long memories) is the come with fior di latte cheese but with thewith grilled marinated pork, pineapple, brain child of Melissa Merola and Federico options of either Neapolitan or Australianonion and coriander, or slow-roasted Pisanelli, both of whom are lawyers who buffalo mozzarella, while a second, cooler,pork topped with a Yucatan apple vinegar are as obsessed with food ethics as they wood oven is used to cook dishes suchand Spanish onion salsa. There are crisp are about pizza. There’s no factory-farmed as house-made pork salsicce with roastflat tacos topped with beans and grilled produce on the menu. Dairy products peppers, lamb ribs with potato aioli andporterhouse, and tortillas stacked with a come from cows that graze naturally on bio- chilli or braised goat pizzaiola. Open lunchchoice of fillings such as braised chicken dynamic pasture, chickens roam free-range Monday-Friday, dinner Friday. 33B Pirie St,with onion, paprika and Mexican oregano. on Kangaroo Island, pork products come Adelaide; phone (08) 8164 1003.Various sauces are available to add a bit from pigs that live happily outdoors notof zip to the flavours. The “maiz” refers to cooped up in sheds and so on. It’s a worthy Left: Pizza e Mozzarella interior.the fact that all the bases are made from Right: Maiz e Mezcal interior.corn, which is gluten free, and the mezcal– “the great grandfather of tequila” – isthe preferred drink along with severalvery palatable Mexican beers. There’sa token list of blanco and rosado wines,but why bother when you can have a shotof Enmascarado 54.8 Agave Espadinmescal from Oaxaca served with a sliceof fresh orange topped with cinnamon.Open lunch Wednesday-Sunday,dinner Tuesday-Sunday. 405 Magill Rd,St Morris; phone (08) 8361 3983. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 57

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELBritish-born chef and restaurateur Spencer Classics like cotoletta alla Milanese is interesting and eclectic wine list and keenPatrick and his wife Reina have made Port delicious coated in breadcrumbs and prices, and you have a delightful CBD oasisDouglas their home, bringing a new level parmesan, and doused in herby, garlic and tucked into a quiet, laneway locale. Burnettof dining to Macrossan St, the town’s main lemon butter. Olive oil poached salmon, Lane, Brisbane; phone (07) 3012 8725.tourist strip. Harrison’s, named after the bistecca di manzo and saltimbocca withcouple’s son, is a gorgeous homestead- grilled artichokes are proving popular and Public recently took out Best Newstyle veranda restaurant that takes absolute very approachable main courses, and will Restaurant in the 2102 Good Food Guide,advantage of the year-round summer. After cement this little Italian as a firm favourite presumably because of its interesting retro-establishing the tropical fine diner, they on this uber popular restaurant strip. meets-library decor, various dining andwent on to open Bucci, an atmospheric 11-12/15 James St, Fortitude Valley; drinking areas and menu of small and largeItalian with classic decor and modern phone (07) 3852 3323. plates designed to share. The decor oftwists to the menu, right in the heart of soaring glass windows and hard surfacesthe main street. From day one, Bucci has Survey Co, which was mentioned makes the place noisy when busy, but therebeen a success story. Entry is via the last edition, is another cracking space is a small space at the back of the venuepretty courtyard where clothed tables and that is changing the face of Brisbane where tables are spaced and chattingsoft lighting create a romantic, old world dining. Consummate restaurateur Simon is easier. Level One, 400 George St,ambience that eases you into the more Livingstone has created an urban space Brisbane; phone (07) 3210 2288.modern take on Italian classics. Restaurant that combines original architecturalnumber three is Bucci mark 2 – this time in features, hard surfaces and an industrial Q’Essence is the work of BrisbaneBrisbane, again on a busy tourist strip in the aesthetic with cosy nooks and romantic born chef Damien Styles, who recentlyheart of New Farm - James St. Spread over window-side tables. The bar at the front did a stint at popular Melbourne hangtwo levels of cement floored space, black gives nothing of the rest of the venue – a out Pope Joan. The menu sits firmly inand white with bold splashes of red, waist long line of tables against a brick wall that 2000’s style modern – think retro sideslength bi-fold windows, a kitchen looking in part looks on to the kitchen. There’s a like mac and cheese, basic mains likedirectly into the dining area and banquette dining room with rudimentarily set tables fish and chips with mushy peas andseating around two walls, Bucci Brisbane that overlooks a gorgeous courtyard open moves into produce-driven speak like to the stars and walled on all sides by the Darling Downs beef tartare, Gympie beeflooks over to the ever-busy Cru Bar cheeks and Gooralie pork belly. There’saccentuating the bustling bar and dining surrounding buildings. The menu begins a five-course tasting menu designed fornature of the street. In the coming months with veal carpaccio, but the poached you by Styles and at lunch you can tryBucci will be joined by Gerard’s, a modern squid stuffed with fennel, prawn and citrus popcorn chicken wings, pulled pork rollsMiddle Eastern eatery with chef Ben flavours is a gently flavoured and near with spiced tomato relish or ManchegoWilliamson (Cha Cha Char and The Euro) perfect starter. Ditto red claw yabbies with cheese croquettes and Pink Lake salt-at the burners. More on that next time. The heirloom tomatoes and bisque vinaigrette, cured kingfish with dried finger limes,menu begins with “assaggino” or items to and game terrine with mushrooms and crackling and house-made bonito flakes.share and they include porcini and taleggio brioche. Bouillabaisse, duck and orange Baked lemon custard, chocolate fondantarancini, spicy fried school prawns, and eye fillet with bearnaise shows the with fudge and choc caramel shards andchicken, fennel and salami stuffed green classic, old school style of the mains list, vanilla rice pudding confirms the retroolives and Bucci beans – warm soya beans and all dishes are backed with classic take food matters. 70 Kedron Brook Rd,laced with chilli, garlic and anchovies. cooking methods and great ingredients Wilston; phone (07) 3352 3202. sets this place apart. Add to that an Above: The Survey Co view from the courtyard and interior.58 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNIt cuddles up to small shops on a puff pastry ($17 for an entree). It is just closed soon as it goes through a completenarrow street in an attractive village-like too tempting. The bistro is fully licensed. makeover. I’ve been told it will morph into aenvironment in East Fremantle. Its name 71-73 George St; phone (08) 9339 6352. smart grill, with meat and seafood to order.is George Street Bistro and along with It seems that dumbing down is the orderits neighbours, attracts those with an eye Maurizio Di Ciano, of Maurizio of the day, although here in Perth, therefor fad, food and fashion. Foodies are Restaurant in North Perth, lives with his foot is room for one of two more fine-diningwell catered for at the bistro, whether it’s flat to the floor. Not only is he successful restaurants, as long as the mining boomfor breakfast, elevenses, lunch, dinner at Events Catering in WA, his restaurant continues. 14 Mill St, phone (08) 9215 2421.or a takeaway from the excellent deli is popular and apart from normal a lasection. Owners Sabine Reder and carte, offers a diversity of functions and If you don’t happen to work in miningSoren Koberstein know their tucker and evenings that keeps the lovers of his food and haven’t the high disposable incomealthough I’m here on a warm night, I tuck well satisfied. This year sees the 11th Il associated with the industry, there areinto a classical wintry dish, beef goulash Giro D’Italia, where each fortnight patrons some places around that won’t have you taste the delights of an Italian region’s checking your credit balance. The Big Bowl Noodle House is one. Ensconced in Chinatown at the Brisbane end of William St, this small diner with its house-made noodles is clean with a busy open kitchen at the rear. Help yourself to a wine glass, open your own bottle of wine and place an order at the counter for the array of soups and stir-fry dishes which are displayed on the brightly coloured laminated menus scattered around. The average price is $11 for a large bowl of whatever takes your fancy. I ravish a bowl of pork and prawnwith steamed broccoli, mashed potato traditional and contemporary food along dumplings swimming in a subtle, clearand onion rings ($38). Soren, the chef, is with live entertainment. Then in July, his broth. The dumplings, and there are 10 ofGerman-born and I figure he would have Roman Banquet is a 12-course degustation them, are as fat as a sumo wrestler, soft anda pretty good understanding of goulash, reminiscent of the authentic “long table” juicy and the dish is remarkable value atas the stew hails from not-too-far-away feasts of ancient Roman times and runs for $10.80. The Big Bowl decor may be a littleHungary. He says the secret to the dish five consecutive Friday nights. If you would frugal, service almost non-existent althoughis slower than slow cooking (many hours) rather simply drop in and have a quiet drink dishes are brought to and taken from theat a low temperature, to break down the or two, his MLounge is the place to go. Here table and there may be a chip or two inconnective tissues in the meat and to you may sip on a cocktail, quaff a beer or the bowl your food arrives in, but, by golly,reduce the consistency of the braising prosecco and enjoy assaggini – a small it’s cheap. 408 William St, Northbridge;liquid. The result is wonderful gelatinous, Italian delight or two. 235 Fitzgerald St; phone (08) 9228 4448.fall-apart beef in a sticky paprika-flavoured phone (08) 9228 1646.sauce that is perfectly at home with the Left: George Street Bistro. Right: Maurizio Di Ciano.soak-it-up mash, the crunch of al-dente It’s not breaking news but Guillaumebroccoli and sweet lift of caramelised Brahimi’s restaurant in Perth will open inonion. If you prefer something a little the middle of September. The TV celebritylighter, Soren travels west across the chef’s main interest is his restaurant inborder to France and does an excellent Sydney, Guillaume at Bennelong in thebeef fillet steak with sauce bearnaise on Opera House, but he promises a moregreen beans and pommes frites in duck fat relaxed bistro style in Perth at the Burswood($42). The menu is eclectic and you’ll notice Entertainment Complex, James Packer’ssome Asian-inspired dishes as well. The venture. He’s not slumming it, as his closedesserts (about $14) are also stunning, so neighbours are Rockpool and Nobu, bothleave room for them. I’m going back to try recent additions to Burswood.some offal – veal heart pie with capsicum,cucumber, peppercorns and dill under The Globe Wine Bar and Restaurant at the Parmelia Hilton, one of Perth’s most popular drinking and dining venues will be July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 59

winewords T I M S M I T HSKYE MURTAGH2012 is a Silver Jubilee year for one of an exchange program in the Rhone - was What’s the one rule you always followthe Barossa Valley’s most familiar faces, to always have great spirit and belief in when it comes to selecting wines forTim Smith. 25 years ago this multi-award all facets of the process. The other was your own consumption?winning boutique winemaker launched a general attitude towards being solely Can I drink more than one glass of this winehis wine career by securing a position focused on quality, by Charlie Melton. In without getting bored?as a cellar hand at Yalumba. It proved fact, there was a sign on his cellar walla smart first move because 15 years on, that said “the quality stupid!” as a constant What do you believe really sets thewith significant support from the team reminder should the temptation arise to Barossa Valley apart from other wineat Yalumba, Tim had completed a wine take a short cut. regions around Australia and the world?science degree and was a qualified We’re blessed with mostly even vintages, awinemaker in his own right. He went on Name the most memorable bottle of wine fantastic local food culture, a genuine spirit ofto hone his skills at several high calibre you’ve ever consumed and describe “bonhomie” between producers, a great mixwineries, including St Hallett, Tatachilla the circumstances in which it was of established producers and an enthusiasticand Chateau Tanunda. Tim says he was discovered and enjoyed. new generation coming through that “gets it”.“drinking Condrieu on the doorstep of (It was a) long time ago family dinner – an As well, we’re able to produce a wide range ofthe famous Hermitage Hill Chapel in early ‘80s Yarra Yering Dry Red No 2 - a contemporary styles, with a great opportunitySeptember, 2001” when he decided the wine well ahead of the current wave of to now make new styles and varieties.time had arrived to launch his own label. Northern Rhone styles in Australia. ThatThe first vintage of Tim Smith Wines was heady, aromatic lift of ripe fruit, and it was If you had the chance to establishproduced in 2002. A decade on and Tim’s probably only 12 per cent alcohol. another winery in any other wine region,focus remains fixed on producing wines where would it be and why?from the Barossa’s famous varietals of Outside of winemaking you’re a keen The Rhone Valley in France - the spiritualmataro, grenache and shiraz. He also motorcyclist. Are there any parallels home of the wines I enjoy drinking andsources small parcels of high quality between these two pursuits? from where I unashamedly draw inspiration.fruit from the Eden Valley for his TSW Just one: stay upright.Viognier and Eden Valley Riesling. What’s the most unusual questionEarlier this year, Tim commenced making What’s your favourite wine accessory you’ve ever been asked about one ofhis wines at Home of the Brave - a and why? your wines?Nuriootpa winery he shares with the team An old school beer jug - better than most Not one of my wines, but in a previousfrom First Drop Wines. decanters for aerating wines. life while working for an employer I hadDescribe your journey to your currentposition as winemaker for your own label?It all started with a bottle of wine - likemost people in the wine industry I guess.I developed a taste for the contents inside,became fascinated with the way it came tobe made, and wanted to know more - stilldo. Having worked for a number of greatproducers, I was fortunate to learn first-hand how to make wine on a commercialbasis, but really didn’t want to be trappedinto making a living making wines thatweren’t my own personal favourites. Myown brand allows me this luxury - as longas the sales keep going!What was the most significant piece ofadvice you received through your earlywine education?(There were) two really important pieces ofadvice. One, more so a throwaway line fromAlberic Mazoyet - who was the winemakerwith Chapoutier some time ago when I did60 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

a customer ask while tasting a cabernetsauvignon, why we blended cabernetsauvignon with sauvignon blanc? I guessthe shiraz viognier thing might haveprompted that one!How have your personal wine tasteschanged over the years?I now tend to only drink wines that reallyhave pedigree from the great regions ofthe world ie: lots of Barossa wines.Describe your own wine collectionand how do you select and protectits stock?Eclectic - mostly Rhone red and whiteblends, aged Australian riesling andyounger modern Australian chardonnay.The actual cellar is probably one of theoldest in the Barossa and is just the rightsize for my collection.What’s the most coveted item in yourwine collection?Predictably, but probably ’90 Grange -bought for my son’s birth year. Haven’tdrunk it yet though!Can you recall your first wine encounter?Cheap, sweet Rhine Riesling at a Chineserestaurant as a teenager. It would havebeen made from everything except riesling.If you weren’t a winemaker you wouldlikely have been a ... ?Lighting technician (roadie) for arock’n’roll band. It’s the life I led beforethe wine industry.What’s the hardest challenge toovercome as a boutique wine producerin Australia in the 21st century?Resisting the temptation to listen to peoplesay how tough times are. What othervocation allows you to travel, eat and drinkwell, and work with like-minded people?How do you continue to develop yourown skills as a winemaker?Regular tasting with friends in non-commercial situations ie: with winemakermates usually over dinner and visiting theircellars for casual tastings. Also, tastingwines from all over the world. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 61

bookwormsCHARLES GENTJIM MURRAY’S THE AUSTRALIAN WINE A VINEYARD IN MY GLASSWHISKY BIBLE 2012 GUIDE (5TH EDITION) By Gerald AsherBy Jim Murray By Clive Hartley Published by University of California Press RRP $35Published by Dram Good Books RRP $35 Published by Hospitality Books RRP $45“An intriguing aroma of honey, carrot and Now in its fifth edition, Clive Hartley’s You have to resign yourself to the factvery distant cordite”: a Viognier, perhaps, Australian Wine Guide retains its function that you may never get to all of the wineor a Pouilly-Fume? No, these descriptors as a basic textbook for wine drinkers. For regions encompassed by Gerald Asherhave been evoked by a malt whisky. And like the most part, it fulfils its charter as an all- in A Vineyard in My Glass, and as thehundreds of others described between the purpose reference book very well: there book is a collection of his articles goingcovers of Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2012, are concise and accurate run-downs on all back to the 1980s, the vintages hethe drop in question came from a distillery I’d of the nation’s wine regions, a guide to the describes are also often unobtainable. Thenever heard of. But whatever the depth of your major grape varieties, explanations of the compensation is that Asher is a marvelousown whisky knowledge, Murray is a singular fundamentals of winemaking and a range virtual tour-guide, and thanks to his rareman undertaking a very singular task. of statistics and good, simple maps, as well ability to combine vivid prose with dense as pointers on tasting, buying and cellaring. research, the reader is transported to the The book reviews 4500 whiskies, including 27 European and North American regionsa year’s work in the form of 1210 new tastings The information that it does present is visited in the book. Asher is all aboutand 200 retastings. It’s a remarkable feat, hard to fault, and Hartley’s writing style is putting wine in its context both in terms ofespecially when you consider that Murray unpretentious, utilitarian and readable. This its terroir and the people who grow andpursued his drams around the world, from book is obviously aimed at the reader who make it, and consequently his essaysSpeyside to California, from Finland (where wants concise information served in easily conjure up a heady mix of the history,he found one of the great whiskies of the digestible chunks, not the coffee-style tome geology, architecture and landscape, asyear) to Taiwan and Tasmania. Rating them that is usual for this genre. It did leave me well as the personalities, of each locale.on a 100-point system that awards up to 25 with a quandary, in the form of the illustrated His unraveling of the complexities ofeach for nose, taste, finish and balance, step-by-step guide to uncorking a bottle: French classification system is masterful,Murray offsets the natural dominance I can’t decide whether it’s more, or less, while as a pilgrim of place, his opinion ofof Scotland with a rigorous palate and necessary than it used to be. Corks are globalised wine styles and the 100-pointinfectious enthusiasm for quality; he ranks much rarer, but then so is the skill. scale is withering. Given that the articlesbourbon maker Buffalo Trace alongside were written originally as columns for USArdbeg, Highland Park and Laphroaig. magazine Gourmet, cuisine looms large, too. You won’t escape some pangs of Assuming the mantle of holy writ is a big envy, but otherwise it’s an entertaining,claim, but having scoured the 380-odd absorbing and instructive read.pages of malts, blends and bourbons, Ican only genuflect.62 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, we willWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 63

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts Quintets on offer, 1998 Saltram Metala Shiraz Cabernet, 2008 Woodlands Margaret LANGTON’S WINE ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Cabernet and 1998 Yarra Yering Dry Red No AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (APRIL AUCTION REPORT, 1. Of the imports, April buyers were keen on Weekly Wine Auctions BY GRAHAM WRIGHT) Chateau Pierre Bise’s luscious 1999 Coteaux held on Wednesdays) A big bottle of prized burgundy, lots of du Layon Beaulieau, Christian Salmon Melbourne: June 27-July 4 Grange and a wee bottle of liqueur were Sancerre, Guyon’s two Grand Cru Burgundies Sydney: July 4-11 among the highlights of Oddbins’ April from 1996 and Boisson’s Chateauneuf du Melbourne: July 11-18 premium and budget auction. Led by a Pape Elisabeth.1994 Louis Roederer Cristal Sydney: July 18-25 keen buyer who was happy to secure and Bollinger’s 1999 La Grande Annee Melbourne: July 25-August 1 a rare magnum of 2007 Domaine de la Champagne also attracted buyer attention. Sydney: August 1-8 Romanee-Conti Grand Cru Richebourg for Melbourne: August 8-15 $1900 (hammer price), this auction also saw From the two majors of the Australian Sydney: August 15-22 the pleasing return of buyers to Penfolds auction scene, good clearances were Melbourne: August 22-29 Grange. The liqueur was a 200ml bottle of reported for Henschke Cyril and Mount Sydney: August 29-September 5 Moet & Chandon Petite Liqueur. Edelstone from the 1990s, while Hill of Grace sales remain patchy with the Stock entry cut-off is 10 days prior Other highlights included strong bidding exception of the 2005 vintage. on Australian table wines from the mild but STERLING WINE consistent 2005 vintage including Kilikanoon With Penfolds, the Bin range was generally AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE Prophecy Shiraz, Henschke Hill of Grace, quiet except for Bin 407 from the 1990s and June 29-July 11 Murray Street Gomersal Shiraz, Penfolds the few offerings of Bin 707. The Special (consignment deadline: June 25) Grange and Rockford Basket Press. Bin 90A came back into fashion and Grange July 27-August 8 sales strengthened again, especially with (consignment deadline: July 23) Once again, shiraz-flavoured table reds the late 2000 vintages. There was a small dominated this sale with good clearances return of buyer interest in the Imperfect ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS of 1998 Leasingham Classic Clare, 2001 Grange section, with buyers opting for the July 10 (closes June 8) Veritas Hanisch, 2003 Wendouree and poorer examples from 1980s and the sad, August 14 (closes July 13) Wynns Michael from the 1990s. Special weeping cork offerings from 2004. September 18 (closes August 24) mention should be made of buyers returning to Rockford Basket Press, with healthy Finally, with fortifieds and spirits it was GRAYSONLINE clearances for most lots. For non-shiraz generally a quiet night for the huge offering Daily wine auctions (featuring a drinkers, good sales were reported for 1994 of Seppelt’s vintage dated Paras, but the range of red and white wines and Lindeman St George, most Mount Mary Stanton & Killeen vintage ports sold well. regional and country-specific sales) The change in weather conditions also saw good clearances of Cognac. CRACKA WINES Live wine auctions every day at 1pm The Budget catalogue showed good and 8pm on weekdays and 8pm on clearances again for the large selection weekends of mixed lots as well as 2001 and ’02 Cape Mentelle Trinders red blend, 1996 VIN AUCTIONS Leconfield Glenroy Siding Cabernet Merlot, - FINE AND RARE WINES 2005 Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz, 2008 For Auction Dates go to www. Mt Lofty Old Pump Shed Pinot, 2009 vinauctions.co.nz Penna Lane Riesling and Robertson Max V cabernet blend from 2007. (all dates subject to change, without notice) LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS (INTERIM 2ND QUARTER64 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012 MARKET REPORT) April marked the beginning of Langton’s 2011 Bordeaux en primeur campaign. Although erratic weather during the growing season has meant 2011 will not be an exalted vintage, the en primeur tastings have revealed that quality is far higher than initially expected. At the time of writing only a few chateaux had released their en primeur prices, but with discounts of up to 50 per cent over 2010 prices expected,

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wine investment & collectingLangton’s 2011 en primeur campaign is fetching $197. The market for very old ViN AUCTIONS - FINE AND RARE WINESshaping up to be a great year to buy well- vintage-dated Seppelt Para Liqueur port (FIRST QUARTER 2012 REPORT,priced, classically-styled Bordeaux. The has lifted in recent times as collectors BY GILES HINE)beginning of the 2nd quarter has seen seek to secure rare bottles of Australian The 2012 first quarter has been somewhatsteady sale auction conditions at Langton’s vinous history. Stellar results included quiet, not only for fine and rare wines, but thewhich are expected to strengthen, $657 for a 1927 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port whole New Zealand retail sector. The lack ofculminating in the annual Penfolds auction and $979 for a 1900 Seppelt 100 Year Old activity in fine wine across the industry has(scheduled for June 15-22). Strong demand Para Vintage Tawny. Penfolds Grange is been noted not just by us, but also by manyfor pristine, blue chip wine is the underlying holding firm. The market for Grange falls of our best customers. Undoubtedly thereforce driving buyer participation and solid into two categories: Rare Grange (1951- have been issues regarding the provenanceclearance rates. Successful bidding rates 1966) and Vintage Grange (1967-present). of some wines and the publicity given to thisacross all April auctions were excellent. Sales of rare Grange produced some in the press has not been helpful, but there stellar results. A 1951 Penfolds Bin is also just a lack of good cellars to sell - The 2nd quarter got off to a flying start 1 signed by Max Schubert achieved certainly not many larger cellars.with a large sale in early April of rare and $51,753 and a 1954 Penfolds Bin 12blue chip Australian wine drawing strong Grange Hermitage fetched $14,950. The At the same time, ViN Auctions has notedparticipation and driving competitive increasing rarity of good condition’60s era a rise in Asian buyers, although generallybidding. Classified wines performed bottles was reflected in a 1967 Penfolds they prefer to buy privately rather than instrongly underlining the importance Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz attaining $284 an online auction. We assume there’s still aof track record and cellaring ability under the hammer. Imported wine trust issue here so we’re more than happyin the secondary market. Highlights sales continue to go from strength to to arrange private sales.included 2004 Giaconda Estate Vineyard strength. Top Bordeaux Right BankChardonnay ($141), 2002 Rockford estates from strong vintages performed Thus in the first quarter, ViN Auctions heldBasket Press Shiraz ($186) and $175 well in April with a 2000 Chateau Ausone, only two auctions of what we’d describe asfor 1986 Wendouree Shiraz. The market St-Emilion fetching $2530. Very rare top end, collectable wines. Once again, themomentum for Australian rarities also early 20th century bottles also garnered star was Chateau Petrus. Three vintages -continued apace, with buyers seeking attention with a 1908 1st Growth Chateau 1980, ’85 and ’88 - all sold around the $2200out vintages from the 1950s and ’60s. Latour achieving $2644. The longevity of mark. These are definitely bargains, althoughHighlights included 1957 Mount Pleasant Portuguese port was highlighted with an subsequent auctions in Europe and Hong(Hermitage) Shiraz at $346 and $347 1871 Garrafeira Vinho do Porto Gaia, Porto Kong have seen a marked reduction in pricesfor a 1967 Seabrook Wines Wendouree fetching $1304. achieved for Bordeaux collectables. At $2400Shiraz Mataro. Aged Australian riesling we sold a bottle of Louis XIII de Remy Martinalso proved of interest to collectors with All prices above are per bottle, include Grande Champagne Cognac - handmadea1982 Pewsey Vale Riesling, Eden Valley buyer’s premium and are in $A. crystal bottle in presentation case. These are extremely rare and very difficult to value Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What66 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

wine investment & collectingbut vendor and buyer seemed happy with and 2000 selling for well over $300. All prices Auctionthe price achieved. First growths remain quoted include commission and GST.very popular (when we can find them), with CashLafite leading the way. We sold five different CRACKA WINES NOW!vintages this quarter - the ’95, ’98, ’99, ’02 and (MARCH-APRIL REPORT,’04. All fetched in excess of $1500 a bottle. BY ANGUS HUGHSON) In a Hurry?1994 Latour on the other hand, raised $580. While the press may well be painting current trading conditions as particularly tough for The Wine Auction Process will get Elsewhere, Australia led the way. Penfolds retailers, the wine drinker’s thirst for premium you better returns, but it could takeGrange remains popular and the Chinese wine hasn’t waned at Cracka Wines. In months to sell every last bottle.definitely have a passion for it. We sold particular, we’ve seen some astounding resultsevery vintage from 1991 to 2000. Prices for several top shelf Australian reds from Consider a quick cash deal?achieved were always at $400 or above, strong vintages, including 1999 d’Arenbergsignifying a lift from the past couple of years Dead Arm Shiraz ($110), 2002 Penfolds Bin Sterling has a monthly “Live on Line”when they sold between $300 and $350. 389 Cabernet Shiraz ($85) and $75 for the 2004 Wine Auction that taps huge Henschke Keyneton. Conversely, the 1997 International demand for premium Burgundy sales remained sluggish. Of note Penfolds Grange reached just $306, a figure back vintages. Find out how Sterlingwere three bottles of 1989 Joseph Drouhin barely above its release price, showing again works harder and smarter to produceMusigny Grand Cru making $440 and a 2005 that somewhat inferior vintages fail to really the best results for you.Chapelle-Chambertin, Grand Cru Domaine reap the secondary market rewards.Rossignol-Trapet which went for over $150. FREE Auction CataloguesPart of the issue remains the paucity of stock Beyond these more mature wines, it’s the FREE Bidder Registrationoffered to us, but nevertheless Burgundy thirst for Marlborough sauvignon blanc that(particularly white Burgundy), is hard to sell. continues to drive the strongest results in Phone Lynton 08 9388 9955 the drink-now end of the spectrum - with or 0418 949 837, At home, New Zealand wines continue to wines from Cirro, Honeymoon Bay and Fushsell well - albeit at lower prices. That said, ‘n’ Chups Sauvignon Blanc stirring up the or www.sterlingwine.com.authese prices are on the rise with 2007 Destiny most interest. So popular are these auctionsBay Magna Praemia (over $230 a bottle) (particularly the Fush ‘n’ Chups which has STERLINGan excellent example. This is a relatively been made famous by cameos on A Current Wine Auctions & Exchangeyoung Waiheke Island winery producing Affair and in The Weekend Australian) that it’sBordeaux-style wines of exceptional quality. not uncommon to see 100 different biddersTe Mata Coleraine regularly reaches $100 and competing for these wines, particularly whenStonyridge Larose, having suffered a relapse offered without reserves.in price for the past couple of years, is backon the increase with magnums of the 1999 AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 67

wine investment & collecting Perhaps more noteworthy is the evergreen Everyone loves a mystery and everyone not own stock catalogued - unless it is aninterest in well-priced pinot noir, with the loves a bargain so it’s little surprise they’ve unpaid purchase which is resold to recover2008 Elmslie an excellent example of what proven such a hit. All quoted prices are per costs (approx three lots per catalogue). Theour buyers are seeking. This wine is drawn bottle with no buyers’ premium applicable. wonderful thing about the internet world isfrom a tiny vineyard in Tasmania’s Tamar the “Google-driven” search for “truth” inValley that has some of the oldest plantings STERLING WINE pricing/values. The old days of hype andon the western side of the Tamar River. AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE bluster pushing bidders over the odds areNormally retailing for $42, this gold medal- (MAY REVIEW, BY LYNTON BARBER) well gone.winning pinot noir has been starting below The whole world has gone online and the$15 at Cracka auctions with amazing results, internet is now the space where most The simple dynamics remain unchanged.including over 100 dozen sold in just 48 waking time is spent. Certainly, looking at Private buyers of quality wine often need tohours. Two Central Otago pinots, the Quail’s a computer screen for work or play is only sell off all or part of their collection. ChangeRun and Shagger’s Station, have also been a click away from buying online. Buying drives this need – be it change of location,particularly popular in auctions achieving wine online has become a simple matter taste, marital/financial circumstances etc.consistent results and attracting lots of with an explosion of offers and businesses The “real wine auctioneer” provides thatactivity. However, it’s the 2010 Fonty’s Pool competing to ship you budget boxes. The service and often sells rare wines wayPinot Noir, from Pemberton (WA), that’s set main point of difference between traditional above original purchase prices or unpopularthe highest records, establishing the mark “bricks” high street “physical” retailers and wines well below.for the most bids on a single auction of any the “clicks” online shop - is the delivery time.wine in the last two months. In a similar Product, price and quality are comparable. Online technology has made the winevein, and again heartening to see such The traditional option lets you take home auction business one of the most dynamicpopularity for an aged riesling, the 2008 your purchase straight after buying, where and vibrant markets. The ability to trade hugeDinny Goonan Riesling from a property west the online option will need to be shipped, catalogues with many thousands of lots in aof Geelong, has also been very successful which can take up to a week for delivery. way where each and every lot becomes awith savvy buyers picking this up for under The online wine auction, in its pure form, is simultaneous individual auction is marvellous.$10 a bottle (instead of $22). not a shop pushing the latest specials that Competition/perfect knowledge is delivered are owned by the trader. Auction buyers are in a way unimagined only a decade ago. Every Most recently we’ve also rolled out a entitled to know if the stock offered by the buyer is effectively running their own auctionseries of mystery wines produced by auction house is from private vendors or catalogue “wish list” and bidding hard on theseveral very well known Victorian and South from the shop that owns the auction house. lots that they must have, right to the end.Australian producers. These have neverbeen sold at such attractive prices, which Sterling Wine Auctions acts as a strict Sterling Wine Auctions went onlineis why their names must remain a secret, and fair agent representing the interest of almost 20 years ago. Back in 1993 whenand they continue to be very popular. both buyer and seller equally. Sterling does version one of sterlingauctions.com.au was launched, eBay was just an idea and Facebook’s founder was still in high school.68 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

wine investment & collectingSince then we have run over 100 live online offered for auction, in addition to providing Tarrawarra at over $30 each and both ’03wine auctions - independently and always a written description. Clear, accurate Bass Phillip and 2005 Bannockburn, are allwith an eye to innovation. photography enables customers selling or drinking well. buying wines with good provenance to get Considerable research with our partners better prices than with their rivals for quality Highlights of the bargains in the under $50– you, the private wine sellers and buyers - wines that have been well cellared. This per bottle bracket were 1999 Hollick Shirazhas highlighted the need for some exciting gives customers greater trust and more Cabernet, 2008 St Hallett Blackwell Shiraz,innovations now under development. power to make informed buying decisions. 2004 Taltarni Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001At Sterling we believe the Fine and Grays caters to a dynamic customer base, Thorn-Clarke Quartage Red Blend, 2001 TwoCollectable wine auction market is not an including “serious collectors”, to those Hands Sophie`s Garden Shiraz, 2007 Wirraold concept being overhauled by mega retail seeking imported wines or excellent Wirra Church Block Red Blend (single 1.5Lconglomerates buying up all distribution drinking at under $50. Others are looking magnum), 2002 Binder Mitchell Dovetailchannels. We believe the future will give for wines that are aged and drinking well, Cabernet Sauvignon and 1997 d’Arenbergevery wine buyer and seller an equal voice or seeking out an old favourite for an Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon.and access to genuinely free and fair anniversary, or something mature from“transparent” markets. Sterling is dedicated Penfolds or a Para. Among the more recognised elite classicsto being the broker developing new and Grays were delighted to offer the followingexciting channels to achieve this goal. Interesting spirit curios such as the aged, drinking well wines: 1996 Best’s Johnnie Walker Premier - just shy of $900, Great Western Bin 0 Shiraz, 2002 CharlesGRAYSONLINE Jack Daniels commemorative 1904 bottling Melton Barossa Valley Shiraz, 1999 Charles(2012 REVIEW, BY GREG FITZSIMMONS) at above $600 and Bundaberg Rums Cimicky Barossa Valley Signature Shiraz,The role and importance of GraysOnline as continue to set the mark with high pricing. 1999 Henschke Cyril Henschke Caberneta significant supply source and purveyor to In what has become almost a monthly item, Sauvignon, 2001 Jasper Hill Emily`sthe wine community grew steadily during April saw a famous Sydney restaurant make Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc and 1999March and April. The company enjoyed room for additional purchases to an ever Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Shiraz.another stellar month in April with an expanding cellar. The offering of over 250increase in sales volumes, and the wines dozen wines such as Rockford, Torbreck, The market showed some heat andand spirits offered up through the auction Cloudy Bay and Henschke - along with an the following results were exceptional,house achieved record prices for Grays’ amazing collection of aromatic whites from highlighting interest in the great and rarecustomers. They say a picture is worth Europe and New Zealand - sold strongly. wines of the world: 1979 Chateau Latour 1era thousand words and it certainly seems Cru Pauillac ($464), 1998 Henschke Mountto help the Grays’ team. Central to their Penfolds Grange continued to be strong Edelstone Shiraz ($135), 2001 Jasper Hillclient’s success is the company’s policy with the April/May Penfolds Sale setting Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz ($95), 2001 Penfoldsof taking individual photos of each item a record with 25 vintages sold, including Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon ($103) and 1979 the 1955. Perfect aged pinots like 2002 Seppelts Para Liqueur Port ($234). Prices listed do not include buyers premium. TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Kieran Gallagher on 02 9741 9600 or email [email protected] July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 69

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2003 $210 1993 $90 1996 $460  2000 $110  1987 $350 2000 $80  WINES 2004 $350 1994 $100 1997 $320  2001 $120 1988 $350 2001 $85 2005 $260  1995 $85 1998 $420 2002 $85  1989 $360 2002 $110  BASS PHILLIP 2006 $250 1996 $130 1999 $380 2003 $85  1990 $580 2003 $100 Premium Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2001 $360 2004 $80  1991 $480 2004 $95 1998 $125 2002 $440 2005 $90 1992 $380 2005 $95 1990 $75  CLONAKILLA 1999 $110 2004 $380 2006 $65 1993 $350  2006 $95 1991 $90  Shiraz Viognier 2000 $110 2005 $350 2007 $75 1994 $380  2007 $80 1992 $95  1990 $65 2001 $110 2006 $310 2008 $85 1995 $360 2008 $95 1993 $80  1993 $65 2002 $140 1996 $500 2009 $75 1994 $110  1994 $85 2004 $190 1997 $360 1995 $80  1995 $65 2005 $120 1998 $580 THREE RIVERS 1996 $110 1996 $100 2006 $120 1999 $400 1997 $140  1997 $130 2007 Not Released 2000 $420 Chris Ringland 1998 $110 1998 $150 2008 $140 2001 $370 Shiraz 1999 $110  1999 $55 2002 $450 1990 $520  2000 $110 2000 $90 Meshach Armagh Shiraz Quintet 2003 $400 1991 $650  2001 $180 2001 $130 1990 $80  1990 $200  1990 $180  2004 $460 2002 $145 2002 $130 1991 $85 1991 $180 1991 $100  2005 $420 1992 $550  2003 $110 2003 $100  1992 $80 1992 $90  2006 $500 1993 $650 2004 $110 2004 $100  1993 $70  1992 $120 1993 $80  1994 $650 2005 $80 2005 $110  1994 $90 1993 $110 1994 $90  2007 $120 2006 $100 1995 $65  1994 $130 1995 $100 1995 $450 2008 $80 2007 $150 1996 $95  1996 $120  1996 $710 2009 $85  2008 $90 1997 Not Released 1995 $130 1997 $110 1997 Not Released 2009 $95  1998 $110  1996 $160 1998 $160  1999 $85 1997 $150 1999 $100 1998 $850 2000 $70 2000 $120  1999 $600 2001 $110 1998 $220 2001 $110  2000 $450 2002 $95 1999 $130 2002 $110 2003 $55  2000 $120 2003 $90  Bin 707 2001 $850 2004 $70  2004 $110 1980 $160 2002 $800 BINDI 2005 $65  2001 $140 2005 $110 1981 Not Released 2003 $500 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2002 $190  2006 $110 1982 $150 1997 $80 GREENOCK 2004 $140 2007 $70 1983 $150 1998 $95 CREEK 2005 $120 2008 $95 1984 $180 1999 Not Released 2006 $140 1985 $170 2000 $150 Cabernet Merlot Roennfeldt Rd 2007 $95 1986 $210 2001 $120 1990 $95 Shiraz 1987 $170  2002 $110 1991 $100 1988 $160 Shiraz 2003 $85 1992 $80 1995 $280  1989 $180 1990 $145 2004 $110  1993 $70  1996 $260  1990 $240  1991 $130 2005 $120 1994 $80  1997 $160  1991 $220  1992 $80 2006 $90  1995 $85  1998 $350 1992 $190  1993 $90 2007 $110 1996 $100 1999 $180 1993 $180 1994 $120  2008 $110 1997 $90 2000 $220 1994 $180 1995 $95 2009 $90 1998 $85  2001 $240 Chardonnay Bin 95 Grange 1995 Not Released 1996 $160  2010 $95 1999 $95 2002 $320 Art Series 1951 $45,000 1996 $210 1997 $70  2000 $85 2003 $200 1952 $17,000 1997 $180 1998 $140  Graveyard Shiraz 2001 $80 2004 $210  1990 $60 1953 $14,000 1998 $280  1999 $80 1990 $90 2002 Not Released 2005 $250 1991 $60 1954 $10,000 1999 $190 2000 $70  1991 $95  2003 $75 1992 $70  1955 $3,200 2000 Not Released 2001 $95 1992 Not Released 2004 $70 Hill of Grace 1993 $65 1956 $13,000 2001 $190 2002 $150  1993 $75 1980 $250 1994 $85 1957 $12,000  2002 $180 2003 $80 1994 $80 1981 $230 1995 $95  1958 $4,100  2003 Not Released 2004 $120 1995 $70 1982 $220 1996 $65 1959 $2,000 2004 $190 2005 $130 1996 $95 1983 $220 1997 $90  1960 $1,500  2005 $180 2006 $130 1997 $75 1984 $210 1998 $70 1961 $1,600 2006 $180 2008 $100 1998 $110 1985 $250 1999 $75 1962 $1,600 2007 $160 1999 $90 Command Shiraz 1986 $340 2000 $75 1963 $1,000  2008 $190 Para Liqueur 2000 $95 1990 $120 1987 $210 2001 $80 1964 $1,000 1878 $1,200  2001 $80 1991 Not Released 1988 $310 2002 $75 1965 $550  1879 $1,200 2002 $75 1992 $100 1989 $240 2003 $80  1966 $700  Bin 60A 1880 $800 2003 $80 1993 $65 1990 $460 2004 $90  1967 $700 1962 $4,000 1881 $800 2004 $80 1994 $95 1991 $400 2005 $75 1968 $550 2004 $460 1882 $1,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1992 $270  2006 $70 1969 $550 1887 $800 2006 $100 1996 $95 1993 $280  2007 $85 1970 $400 Basket Press 1893 $1,000 2007 $90 1997 $80 1994 $340 1971 $780 Shiraz 1899 $1,000CLARENDON HILLS 1998 $90 1995 $300  MOSS WOOD 1972 $400 1901 $650 1999 $60 Cab Sauv 1973 $400 1990 $150 1908 $550 Astralis Shiraz 2000 $65 1974 $400 1991 $140 1910 $500 1994 $200  2001 $65 1990 $130 1975 $400 1992 $95 1922 $350  1995 $200 2002 $80  1991 $150  1976 $580 1993 $75 1925 $600  1996 $300 2003 $60  1992 $120 1977 $400 1994 $90 1927 $280 1997 $200  2004 $70 1993 $100 1978 $400 1995 $65 1930 $120  1998 $260  2005 $65 1994 $100 1979 $380 1996 $140 1933 $110  1999 $260 2006 $65 1995 $100  1980 $360 1997 $95 1939 $80  2000 $270 1996 $100  1981 $390 1998 $190 1944 $70  2001 $290 1997 $100 1982 $370 1999 $95 1947 $55  2002 $330 GIACONDA 1998 $150 1983 $410 Chardonnay 1999 $110  1984 $360 1990 $110 1985 $400 1991 $60  1986 $550 1992 $8570 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

WORLD FINE WINE AUCTION PRICESWINE PRODUCER Vintage Vintage Vin- Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage tageFrance, Bordeaux 2009 2005 2003 2000 1996 1990 1982Chateau Latour 17500 11200 12200 - 14700 -9500950033000 - -- - 16500 15500 14900 - 26500 16100 15000 79900 --Chateau Mouton Rothschild 10900 7000 5000 14500 -- 6000 5400 18000 -Chateau Haut Brion 11300 8200 6000 9300 5000 9000 12000 -Chateau Margaux 12000 10800 8200 11500 - 8000 15000 16600 - -- -Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 8000 6000 2700 7500 -2800 - 6000 - 17000Chateau Cheval Blanc 12900 - 7500 -600011000 -55001510012000 - --Chateau Petrus 42000 - 45200 29500 59500 21600 53300 - 89600 - - -Chateau Ausone 22300 - 25500 17500 23600 -- -6800 - 9300 6500 - -Le Pin 27500 36200 - NA - 45700 20300 - 32800 - 58500 -- --Vieux Chateau Certan 3100 2300 -14002500 1200 2600 2200 -Chateau Brane-Cantenac 850 900 750 1000- -90010001700 - -Chateau Cos d’Estournel 4300 2400 2400 2000 2100 - 2900 5000 - -Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 3300 2350 -1800 2400 - 2200 1800 - 5200 -Chateau Gruaud Larose 850 800-- 650 1200 --120024005200 -Chateau Lascombes 950 1000 - 850 - 1100 -850 1000 - 2400 - --Chateau Leoville Las Cases 3450 3100 1850 3400 2900 4100 5500 --Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2300 1400 1700 2000 -- 1500 4400 - 3900Chateau Montrose 3500 1600 - 2300 2100 1200 - 7000 3300Chateau Palmer 3700 3200 1900 3200 2050 3200 3200Chateau Pichon Baron 1500 1400 - 1300 2300 1800 4000 2700Chateau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 1950 1200 - 1700 3000 2200 1400 8000 -Chateau Rauzan Gassies 480 600 - 600 700 - 600 - 600 - 1800Chateau Rauzan Segla 1500 1300 650 1150 1100 1900 1600France, Sauternes 2009 2005 2003 2000 1996 1990 1982Chateau d’Yquem 7500 6500 2800 4800 2500 5200 5500Chateau Rieussec 350 - 700 - 530 550 575 - 1200 1100Chateau Suduiraut 1000 - 650 - 600 400 - 360 750 1300France, Burgundy 2009 2005 2002 1999 1996 1990 1985DRC Romanee Conti NA 150000 73500 - 63000 - 116900 - 36700 - 46800 -DRC La Tache NA 46600 28700 - 45000 32500 - 67000 65000 -Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin NA 17500 14600 15000 12000 17500 12000 -Domaine Leroy Chambertin NA 30800 - 15000 - 29000 27000 10000 NAFrance, Rhone 2009 2007 2005 2001 1996 1990 1978Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin 4200 6500 3900 5400 3500 - 12900 NAChateau Rayas CNDP Reserve NA NA 8400 3800 - NA - 21900 13000 -Clos du Papes 850 1900 1300 - 1050 550 2300 5800Vieux Telegraphe 550 750 - 600 - 550 420 1200 4000Chave Hermitage NA 2100 3300 2400 1650 9550 11500Guigal La Landonne Cote Rotie NA 3550 6500 3200 3100 11600 24200Guigal La Mouline Cote Rotie NA 3200 5600 6300 5400 12000 5000Guigal La Turque Cote Rotie NA 3200 8600 4900 3400 10400 NAPrices are in USD for 12 x 750ml. United Cellars Fine Wine Auction Prices are not intended to predict future results of wine auction prices.Wine prices, and prices obtained at auction, can vary. Past performance is not indicative of future results. NA Not Available up down - steady Australia, New Zealand and Hong Kong’s leading wine Merchant. Specialising in boutique, fine and rare winesUnited Cellars Pty Ltd | Phone: 1300 5UNITED | SMS: 0402 767 929 | Email: [email protected] July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 71

Italian Chamber of Commerce: representing the world’s largest wine trade event But “bilateral” doesn’t quite cover it: through a network of 75 Italian Chambers of Commerce abroad, located in major business hubs all over the world, ICCI is in a position to facilitate access to international markets as well as to provide qualified advice and assistance to local companies in doing business internationally.47th edition Support for local wine importers7-10 april 2013 ICCI is a conduit for importers and distributors of Italian wines wanting to source new products andWith a name like “Italian Chamber of Commerce supports the promotion of these products on theabroad”, it’s little wonder many assume that its local market through:focus is to assist Italian companies to develop their - Introductions to Italian wine producers.business internationally. It would surprise many to - Outbound trade missions to enable Aussie buyersknow that the Italian Chamber of Commerce andIndustry in Melbourne (ICCI) is an independent, to personally discover the many wine regions ofnot-for-profit organisation established for the purpose Italy and source new products directly.of promoting and developing international trade for - Italian trade show buyer programs: sponsoredboth Italian AND Australian businesses. Its mission programs for new and established importers thatis to strengthen the quality of commercial exchanges include appointment agendas, pre-organised tobetween Italy and Australia to achieve the most make the most of your time.valuable, progressive and sustainable outcomes. - Promotional initiatives such as involvement in B2C exhibitions, master classes and tastings intended to sensitize the Australian consumer to your Italian wines.Contact the ChamberVisit the website on www.italcham.com.au for more information on how your company can benefit from ICCI’s servicesand program of initiatives, or contact ICCI direct on tel. 03 8341 3200 or email. [email protected].

Support for Australian wine producers As summed up by ICCI Director Luca BottalloICCI is a gateway into European and international during his visit to the most recent edition in Marchmarkets for Australian producers, assisting with 2012: “We have 2 olive oil companies and withdeveloping your business internationally through: the collaboration of Winestate, 14 wine companies- Market studies and information as well as advice from all over Australia and the feedback from international buyers and media for both wines on investments and international business. and olive oils was pretty positive”.- Australian wine tastings aimed at international “While Australian wines are now renowned all over buyers and media. the world, our olive oil has grown in terms of quality- The coordination and promotion of the Australian but is still relatively unknown internationally. We are lucky to have two distinct producers in Nullamunjie Pavilion at the annual Vinitaly International Wine Olive Oil with their robust Correggiola and Pitruzzello and Spirits Exhibition in Verona (www.vinitaly.com). Estate with a delicate blend, that excellently exemplify what Australia is now producing.”While we’re on the subject, ICCI representsVinitaly - arguably the world’s largest wine trade “In terms of promoting wine we have a head startevent with over 4000 producers and around – and it’s amazing how much interest we get from140,000 international visitors – and coordinates buyers from all over Europe, Russia, the UK,the official Australian delegation of producers US and Asia”.and buyers to the show and the accompanyingSol International Exhibition of Quality Extra-Virgin Olive Oil. The latest edition actually saw a dramatic boost in professional visitors from abroad, now comprising 35% of total visitors.

80 TASTED39 AWARDEDMERLOT & OTHERBORDEAUX VARIETALSMerlot is not an easy variety to make as a premium, stand-alone Altos Las Hormigas Cable Bayvariety (although Petrus and Le Pin might differ). Generally Mendoza Argentina Five Hills Waihekeregarded as a blending option with cabernet, alone it is often too Malbec 2007 HHH Island Merlotsimple or lean and green, but when it is good it is fabulous! Malbec Funky nose and a Malbec 2010 HHHHis an interesting variety which is coming to the fore with lots of monster of a blackberry The nose has it all - darkexamples (most poor) from Argentina, but also some nice exotic palate with horsy/leathery fruits, licorice, spice andstyles worth considering. Forget most of the cab francs! elements. $51.99 hints of rosemary. The bright, well-structured CABERNET palate shows good FRANC weight of dark varietal & BLENDS fruits. 3-5 $35 NZ 8 TASTED Bird In Hand Two In 1 AWARDED The Bush Adelaide Hills Merlot CabernetPETIT VERDOT MALBEC Mills Reef Elspeth The judges were 2010 HHH1/2& BLENDS & BLENDS Gimblett Gravels disappointed with this Lovely plum-like varietal Hawkes Bay Malbec group as there were too fruit that is nicely balanced6 TASTED 11 TASTED 2010 HHHH many green fruit wines. by the spicy/coffee oak 7 AWARDED Big chocolaty nose and has attractive, minty2 AWARDED with a peppery lift and Ross Hill tones. 3-5 $20 Very interesting varietal pronounced stewed Pinnacle SeriesA nice expressive group class with pure and clear blackberry palate with Orange Cabernet Villa Mariaof wines that are well varietal characteristics. chocolaty oak and a Franc 2010 HHH Cellar Selectionmade and showing firm tannin structure. Perfumed nose with a Hawkes Bay Merlotgood, rich, fruit flavours. touch of eucalypt and Cabernet Sauvignon 3-5 $45 varietal fruit palate 2010 HHH1/2 with herbaceous Raisined perfumedCaudo Bluemoon Lo Tengo Argentina overtones. $40 aromas and luscious, Malbec 2011 HHHH rounded palate withSA Riverland Petit A well-made wine with MERLOT sweet fruit, creamyVerdot 2010 HHH1/2 BLENDS oak and good tanninVibrant purple wine with lovely creamy aromas and structure. $23.99 NZ slightly green, herbaceous 16 TASTEDspicy aromas showing a palate, some berries and 10 AWARDEDtouch of violets. Palate isspicy and floral, with soft slight meatiness in the Solid class without middle. 3-5 $10 being a spectacular one.tannins. 3-5 $14.99 The older wines were Chateau Gazin starting to show their L’Hospitalet deSittella Swan Celestial Bay age and overall the fruit Gazin AppellationValley Petit Verdot Margaret River was just too green, Pomerol Controlée2010 HHH1/2 Malbec 2010 HHH which was an issue. 2006 HHHLuscious, sweet, dark Big perfumed, raspberry Confectionery sweetberry nose and powerful nose and luscious palate blackcurrant bouquet.red currant palate; well- with excellent weight Silky smooth in theintegrated oak and good and length. $25 mouth; simple fruit andtannin backbone. tart acid. $82.99 Paracombe 3-5 $21 Adelaide Hills Trinity Hill by John Malbec 2009 HHH Hancock The Trinity Celestial Bay A minty menthol lift to the Hawkes Bay Merlot nose and rich and complex Cabernet Cabernet in the mouth with good Franc 2011 HHH line of acid. $27 Vibrant fruity nose with a violet lift and Zenith Malbec CJ Pask Declaration slightly meaty palate Shiraz Cabernet Hawkes Bay Malbec that has weight and Sauvignon Petit 2007 HHH texture. $22 NZ Verdot 2010 HHHH Attractive aromas of red Great blackberry jam berries and licorice with bouquet with a touch of a bright, light, blackberry green bean-like notes with palate. $50 similar characters on the powerful, well-balanced palate. 3-5 $3574 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

varietal tastingMcKellar Ridge MERLOT Ballast Stone MERLOT Dowie DooleCanberra District UNDER $20 McLaren Vale Merlot OVER $20 McLaren Vale MerlotMerlot Cabernet 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2Franc 2010 HHH 18 TASTED Licorice and aniseed 21 TASTED Dusty oak aromas withAged fruit aromas 8 AWARDED aromas mix with earthy/ coffee touches andand powerful, oaky The young are good; herbal elements. Lovely 11 AWARDED flavours of herbs and the old bad! Or so it subtle dark fruits withpalate with good dose seems from these fruit palate with light, A mixed bag with quite a balance of chocolatyof spices and white results. Too many racy acid and great hit of a few being more like oak. 3-5 $22pepper. 3-5 $28 wines were fading fast spice. 3-5 $17 dry red than merlots, Blue Pyrenees or were clearly oxidised, but the better wines Merlot 2010 HHHTi Point One especially among the Hardys Nottage showed good varietal The fruity nose has aMatakana Coast NZ cheaper imports. Hill South Eastern depth and character. slightly greenish edgeMerlot Cabernet Australia Merlot with raspberry flavoursFranc 2010 HHH Taylors 2010 HHH Sileni Cellar Selection dominating the palate.Very varietal nose with Clare Valley Merlot Jubey sweet plum Hawke’s Bay Merlotcharcoal characters and 2010 HHHH1/2 fragrances and 2011 HHHH 3-5 $20excellent fruit on the Very attractive, intense dense, ripe fruit flavours Ethereal aromas of Sileni The Triangleelegant, spicy palate. and slightly perfumed that are a touch leafy. violets, blackcurrants Hawke’s Bay Merlot raspberry aromas and an and spearmint. Pretty 2010 HHH 3-5 $22.99 elegant, well-structured, 3-5 $9.99 palate - quite elegant Fragrances of rose fresh cherry and raspberry and showing lovely petals andTurkishSacred Hill Halo palate with excellent Heathridge varietal fruit with oak to Delight with brightHawkes Bay Merlot tannin and toasty oak Margaret River balance. $20 NZ raspberry and blackcurrantCabernet Franc integration. $19 Merlot 2010 HHH flavours. $32 NZ2010 HHH Complex aromas - oak Bird In Hand Nest Bird In HandRipe plum aromas on quite obvious. Lovely, Adelaide Hillsthe nose and a big, soft well-made, big velvety Merlot 2010 HHHand spicy oaky palate - a palate. $13.10 Smells of tobacco andvery pretty wine. $25.99 dark chocolate. Oaky Night Harvest Egg Adelaide Hills palate with sweet herbs Margaret River Merlot 2010 HHHH and a chocolaty finish. $35GMH Meritage South Merlot 2010 HHH A nice, savoury-oak Saddler’sAustralia Merlot Subtle cherry bouquet; a driven merlot with Creek ReserveBlend 2009 HHH touch herbal with a sweet, mulberry and cherry Merlot 2008 HHHSmells of toffee and soft plum palate. Lots of undertones on the nose A well-structured wine;cherries; hint of mint. oak. 3-5 $15.54 and plumy overtones to earthy and simple, andBig oak/fruit palate with the palate. 3-5 $85 showing attractive herbalvelvety tannins. $18 development. $42 Amberley Geoff MerrillDolbel Estate Western Australia Villa Maria Reserve Wickham ParkHawkes Bay Merlot Merlot 2010 HHH Gimblett Gravels McLaren Vale MerlotCabernet 2008 HHH Fragrant raspberry Hawkes Bay Merlot 2007 HHHA light, elegant and aromas with a stalky lift 2010 HHHH Intense fruit cake aromassoftly structured wine and simple, black cherry Very pretty nose with and developed stewedwith lovely, sweet palate with elegant vibrant red berry nose fruit palate with a racyperfumed fruit. $29.95 tannins. $15.99 and a lovely, lingering acid backbone. $27 fruit palate, quite tannic Romney Park Reserve Rapaura Springs but it is in balance Adelaide Hills Merlot Hawkes Bay Merlot with warming alcohol. 2007 HHH 2010 HHH Perfumed confectionery Brooding, earthy mulberry 3-5 $49.99 NZ bouquet and a herbal/red nose with subtle, varietal currant palate with a solid fruit flavours and grainy Killara Estate oak backbone. $35.99 tannins. $17.99 NZ Racers & Rascals Yarra Valley Merlot JUDGES Richard Hamilton Lot 2010 HHH1/2 148 McLaren Vale Cedar characters Merlot 2010 HHH dominate the raisined fruit A very pretty wine with nose and the herbaceous dark berry varietal fruits, palate has some delicate smoky oak and firm tannins. $20 tannins. $18.50 Andrew Locke Luke Tocaccui Helen McCarthy Andrew has been a Winemaker with Patrick Winemaker for winemaker with Rosemount Wines of Coonawarra. Barossa’s Thorn Clarke Wines since 1998. Previously Previously winemaker Winery. Regular wine he was a winemaker with with Orlando Wines and show judge. Former Orlando Wyndham and has vintage experience winemaker with De Bortoli Wines. He has in the Barossa, Clare, Taylor’s Wines of Clare. completed vintages in the US Coonawarra and Sonoma Merlot Specialist. and Loire (France). In 1993 he Valley (California). attended the AWRI advanced assessment course. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 75



HONG KONG REACHING OUT TO WINE A TASTE OF THE BEST- TOAST OF THE WINE INDUSTRY INVESTORS AND COLLECTORS A foundation stone of the fair is itsWith the outstanding achievement of There are many keen wine investors in series of wine tasting sessions, forumsthe HKTDC Hong Kong International Hong Kong and the Chinese mainland, and master classes, all designed toWine & Spirits Fair 2011, Hong Kong is forming a market of great potential. promote appreciation and deepernow firmly established as the regional 2011 saw the introduction of the Wine understanding of wine.trading point of choice for the global Investment Zone; its success is anwine industry. indicator of a great future for this zone. FACE TO FACE WITH CONSUMERSThere are many government and private The inaugural zone featured purveyors With the wine market developing at asector initiatives in place to promote of fine investment wines such as Acker fast pace, the public is enthusiastic towine trading in Hong Kong, such as Merrall & Condit, the biggest auction learn more. Exhibitors can interact withthe abolition of import duty on wine house in the United States; wine agent members of the public on the last dayand speedier customs clearance into Berry Bros and Rudd, a royal wine of the fair, explaining the finer pointsmajor Chinese mainland cities. Of these supplier since 1903; Liv-ex, the world’s of their products and promoting brandinitiatives, the Hong Kong International only online wine-trading business; recognition. How keen are consumers?Wine & Spirits Fair has quickly become Octavian, the world’s largest wine cellar; There were 19,690 public visitors on theone of the most influential. and Wing Lung Bank, the first Hong Kong final day of the 2011 fair, a 38% increase. bank to provide wine loans.THE WINE WORLDGATHERS IN HONG KONG NEW HAPPENINGS BRING MORE “This is the third year we’ve participated SPARKLE TO A GREAT FAIR in the fair. The response has been betterIn 2011 the fair became Asia’s biggest than last year. We’ve got an order fromwine event, hosting over 930 exhibitors Trading is complemented by a range an existing customer in Hong Kongfrom 37 countries & regions. Exhibitors of exciting events which give greater and are in touch with two new contactscame from as far afield as Georgia, exposure to exhibitors’ products and for potential business. We will go toIsrael, Latvia, Malta, the Slovak which raise the standard of wine Shanghai to meet a Chinese mainlandRepublic and Sweden, all participating appreciation in the region. buyer and an Indonesian buyer willfor the first time. The major wine visit our vineyards in Tasmania later.producing countries & regions, both Two events which were introduced in Frogmore Creek produces high qualitynew and old world, have supported the 2011 were Fine Wine Tasting for guests wines. Our Pinot Noir 2008, Iced Rieslingfair since its inception. to taste superb wines of very special 2010 and FGR Riesling 2010 won the quality, and cocktail demonstration silver and bronze medals in the HongVisitor numbers set a new fair record sessions to promote liquor products. Kong International Wine and Spiritwith 19,400 trade buyers coming from Competition. Since last year’s exhibition,71 countries & regions, a 37% increase ELITE EVENTS ADD we’ve sold about A$250,000 worth ofover 2010. Buyers from Italy, the Chinese DEPTH AND COMPLEXITY wines to different customers. This is themainland, France, Taiwan, the US and best wine fair we’ve been to. EverythingAustralia all showed significant growth. The well-established Cathay Pacific is outstanding and the service is Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit amazingly efficient.” Competition is recognised as Asia’s premier event of its kind. In 2011, when Tony Scherer, Owner and Director, the competition was open to all spirit Frogmore Creek Wines, Australia categories, over 1,700 applications were received. The award presentation on the evening of the first day of the fair is a prestigious gathering of international industry leaders. The Wine Industry Conference is another high-level meeting of industry experts sharing their knowledge of wines, wine technology, and wine markets. The region’s leading sommeliers also choose the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair for their Asia Top Sommelier Summit. They discuss industry trends which impact on their profession.For further information contact Ms Toni Wade of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council,Sydney Office on +61 (2) 9261-8911 or [email protected].

335 TASTED190 AWARDEDCABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSA great tasting with lots to like across all price ranges! We went Cumulus Wines Taylors Eightyout and sourced over two dozen imported cabernet predominant Rolling Central Acres Clare Valleywines from around the world, which unfortunately you won’t see Ranges Cabernet Cabernet Shirazbecause most didn’t get through.* However, at the very pointy end Merlot 2010 HHH Merlot 2008 HHHwe saw the outstanding first growths of Bordeaux and also some Pleasant raspberry nose Warm, spicy plum jamgreat Italian, Super Tuscan cabernet and sangiovese blends. and simple, young fruit aromas and some nice flavours. Good tannin age complexity on the*Refer to what we tasted on www.winestate.com.au structure. $18 pretty palate. $15 Chateau TanundaCABERNET Quarisa Treasures Grant Burge 5th Barossa Tower CABERNET& BLENDS Coonawarra Generation Barossa Cabernet Merlot SAUVIGNONUNDER $10 Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHH $10-$15 2008 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Blackcurrant nose with a8 TASTED Excellent cassis fruit Aromatic nose; smells dried, herb-like lift. Soft, 15 TASTED0 AWARDED with licorice-like like fruit cake. Simple, rich berry palate leading 9 AWARDED characters, great use slightly green, plum and to an elegant finish. $18 For the price this is aA disappointing class. of oak and complex yet blackcurrrant flavours with DogRidge The Pup reasonable result with elegant tannins. Palate chocolaty oak. $18.95 Cabernet Merlot easy drinkers at the levelCABERNET shows good cabernet 2010 HHH the judges expected.BLENDS structure. $14.99 Brookland Valley Bright lifted fruityUNDER Verse 1 Margaret aromas and lashings of Nine Acre Block$10-$20 River Cabernet long, lingering, spicy Wines Matilda’s Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 blackcurrant flavours. $18 Ghost Coonawarra33 TASTED Good varietal definition Evans & Tate Classic Cabernet Sauvignon15 AWARDED on the nose and a lighter Margaret River 2009 HHH1/2 style palate with silky Cabernet Merlot Appealing after dinner smooth tannins and a 2010 HHH mint characters on big fruity finish. $19.99 Leafy menthol bouquet; the nose and austere, a hint of spice. Rich, slightly astringent, green Buller Wines Black well-structured, fruity flavours with a soft Dog Creek King palate with some tannin finish. $14.99Although these are Valley Cabernet complexity. $18blends, the judges still Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Brygon Reserveexpected more varietal Dense, dark, resinous Hummingbird Seriesleafy cabernet varietal fruit aromas mixing Margaret Riverovertones rather than just with chocolaty oak. Cabernet Merlotdry reds. However there A warming palate with 2009 HHHwere few faults overall. complex, well-aged Restrained earthy flavours. 3-5 $15 aromas and well- integrated palateBeach Head by Deep Woods Estate Abbey View Reserve with nice complexityCredaro Margaret Ebony Margaret Western Australia developing. $17.99River Cabernet River Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Third Wheel ReserveMerlot 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH Merlot 2011 HHH Margaret RiverLively, fresh fruity A generous, well- Loads of cassis fruit here Cabernet Shirazfragrances and dense, structured wine with with big grainy tannins, Merlot 2009 HHHbrooding palate - soft and pretty bright cassis lots of acid and chocolaty Smells like dried figsround in the mouth with fruit, defined tannins oak. 3-5 $19.99 and plums with similarjuicy, black fruit flavours and nice spicy elements. characters echoed onand good line of acid. $19 Great palate length. Sam Miranda Snow the astringent palate. 3-5 $14.95 Road King Valley 3-5 $19.99 Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHH A flavoursome wine; ripe cassis fruit shows a subtle leafy character and spicy notes. 3-5 $1278 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

Morris Rutherglen CABERNET varietal tastingCabernet Sauvignon SAUVIGNON2010 HHH1/2 2011-2010 award winningPleasant cedar oak $15-$20 wines fromovertones to the noseand good depth of 20 TASTED sirromet wineryvibrant, berry fruitflavours with drying 11 AWARDEDtannins. 5+ $14.99Victorian Alps The judges thoughtWinery Tobacco Road these were worth a fewCabernet Sauvignon dollars more. Very good2009 HHH1/2 value group.Light green herbalaromas and interesting, Shottesbrookesour cherry-like flavours McLaren Valewith piercing acidity and Cabernet Sauvignona soft tannin finish. $14 2010 HHHH1/2Red Knot By Lovely complexity ofShingleback McLaren youthful cassis fruit andVale Cabernet spicy oak lifts off theSauvignon 2011 HHH nose, while the livelyYouthful tarry aromas and palate is brimming overgenerous, soft, fleshy with attractive varietalpalate with berry flavours. fruit and silky soft tannins. $19.99 3-5 $14.95Brygon Reserve Kirrihill Clare Valley GOLD MEDAL china ukMirror Image Cabernet Sauvignon WINNER internationalMargaret River 2010 HHHH internationalCabernet Sauvignon An attractive, cooler wine show wine challenGe2009 HHH region style with a herbalEvolving green cassis/ bouquet and a solid Goldcapsicum aromas and varietal palate that hassolid, varietal palate. length and drive, and a GoldOne for the cellar. good acid backbone. $15 Ballast Stone royal hobart 5+ $14.99 McLaren Vale wine showQuarisa Johnny Q Cabernet SauvignonSouth Australia 2010 HHH1/2Cabernet Sauvignon Nicely evolved varietal2009 HHH aromas with some woodyThe spicy wood tends to elements. Lots going ondominate the greenish on the palate - oak, fruit,varietal fruit on both tannin, lees. $17nose and palate. $11.99Winston Lake Estate Lou Miranda Estate Collecting over 550 prestigious national and international wineMargaret River Leone Barossa awards since being established in 2000, Sirromet is a familyCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon owned company proud to present premium Australian wines2009 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 from the Granite Belt region. Our winemakers are consistentlySubdued cherry berry Smoky oak dominatednose; lean and green on nose; some olive striving for excellence to produce high quality wines.the palate with a drying, undertones. Good,oak tannin finish. $14.99 sweet, varietal fruit Award Winning Wines from Sirromet WineryScarpantoni Pedler persistence on the firm,Creek Cabernet tannic palate. $18.95Sauvignon 2008 HHH Penley EstateEvolved and brooding on Phoenix Coonawarrathe nose with strong, Cabernet Sauvignonsour plum flavours and 2010 HHH1/2high level of acid. $14 Nice subtle fruit aromasQuarisa Treasures with mint and violets.Coonawarra Solid palate showingCabernet Sauvignon good varietal expression,2008 HHH life and character. $19.99Big, bold and ripe blackfruit style of cabernetwith some assertive,drying oak. $14.99 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 79

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS James Oatley Tic Toc Brygon Reserve Reillys Cabernet Leasingham Bin Western Australia Pilot’s Watch Sauvignon 2009 HHH 56 Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Tarry, herbal and Cabernet Malbec 2010 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon tannic wine with green 2008 HHHHH Soft and juicy wine 2009 HHH1/2 edges. Should age Lovely purple hues. with light, tarry aromas A wine with poise well. 5+ $18 Nose still showing and concentrated, showing a perfumed, plumy fruit and just flavoursome palate. $17.99 tobacco bouquet and Sylvan Springs Bell beginning to see some soft, tannic palate with Rd McLaren Vale aged complexity. CABERNET plenty of length. $17.99 Cabernet Sauvignon A complete palate SAUVIGNON 2009 HHH with plum flavours and 2009 & OLDER Totino Estate Inky, tarry bouquet with mouthcoating tannins. $15-$20 Adelaide Hills lifted floral notes and big Needs more time. Cabernet Sauvignon concentration of varietal 23 TASTED 2009 HHH1/2 fruit flavours. $19.95 5+ $22.99 12 AWARDED Big wood influence on These older wines the nose and a sweet Cappa Stone Big Shed Wines were more of a mixed palate with good fruit Wines Coonawarra Cabernets Cabernet bag than the previous presence and nice Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Cabernet group with some ageing tannin support. $19.95 2008 HHH Franc 2009 HHHH gracefully and others not. Barwick Estates Inky, rich aromas and Brooding, prune- Western Australia tarry and tannic in the like bouquet with Beresford Cabernet Sauvignon mouth with drying lifted aromatics and McLaren Vale 2009 HHH tannins. $16 nice spicy/perfumed Cabernet Sauvignon Lovely berry fruit covered influence to the palate.Zilzie Regional 2009 HHHH by the spicy oak and with Still youthful. WillCollection Big, chocolaty nose a good tannic line. $17 Koonara Angel’s improve with furtherCoonawarra Cabernet with nice spice appeal Brygon Reserve Peak Coonawarra ageing. 5+ $29.99Sauvignon 2010 HHH and rich concentrated Hummingbird Series Cabernet SauvignonMinty cassis nose; mouthful of flavour Margaret River 2008 HHH Thorn Clarkesome tobacco notes on the well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon A solid, riper style wine Quartage Barossaand pleasant, varietal palate with excellent 2009 HHH with strong aromas and Cabernet Sauvignonfruit palate with vibrant tannin support. $19.99 Chocolaty, toffee aromas generous flavours. $17.95 Cabernet Francacidity. $15.99 Koonara Angel’s and a lean, slightly Malbec MerlotCool Woods South Peak Coonawarra grippy palate with Merricks Estate 2010 HHH1/2Australia Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon greenish flavours. $17.99 Thompson’s Lightly perfumed, floralSauvignon 2011 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 Henry’s Drive Lane Mornington bouquet. Full and fruity onLifted creamy berry Minty and complex on Pillar Box Reserve Peninsula Cabernet the palate with powerfulbouquet and pleasant, the chocolaty nose. Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH oak and a pleasant, mintyfruit-driven flavours Good length and middle Sauvignon 2009 HHH Big and rich with, finish. $20with drying tannins. palate weight with a Big, concentrated, jammy according to one judge, warming finish. $17.95 nose and generous, “Lots to love”. Has poise Millbrook Margaret 3-5 $16 mouthfilling, ripe, sweet and persistence. $18 River CabernetHarrington Glen fruit flavours. $18 Sauvignon MalbecEstate Granite Belt OTHER 2010 HHH1/2Cabernet Sauvignon CABERNET Fragrant, leafy, cool-2010 HHH BLENDS climate style with coffeeAppealing, ripe cassis $20-$30 aromas and beautifullyaromas with a touch of structured palate withviolets. Palate is fresh, 18 TASTED fine grained tannins.youthful and elegant. $15Sam Miranda High 8 AWARDED 3-5 $28Plains King ValleyCabernet Sauvignon Some excellent, high- Kellermeister The2010 HHH standard wines here; Pilgrimage McLarenGood “hit” of creamy, some downgraded Vale Cabernetberry fruit on the complex because of hard tannins. Shiraz 2009 HHHnose and slightly But few faults overall. Developed, leatheryastringent palate. $17 nose; blackcurrantsBrygon Reserve The Pertaringa underneath. MoreBruce Margaret River Understudy McLaren earthy, leathery notes onCabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet Petit the palate. $252010 HHH Verdot 2009 HHHHHHints of cassis and Beautifully developed Brygon Reservetobacco on the nose. cabernet nose - all earthy Epitome MargaretA harmonious palate and spicy and leathery River Cabernet Shirazwith complexity with violet overtones Merlot 2009 HHHdeveloping. $17.99 and a big, powerful, Complex and quite full-bodied palate. “Need Bordeaux-like with earthy, a steak to tame the leathery, secondary tannins,” said one judge. characters developing. 3-5 $22 3-5 $29.9980 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

Basket Range Forester Estate varietal tastingAdelaide Hills Margaret RiverCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Merlot HoggiesMerlot Petit Verdot 2009 HHH2007 HHH Soft, plump and E s tat EDense and brooding. generous wine withEarthy, herbal aromas simple, ripe berry fruit The ‘Hoggies’ label is part of the Kopparossa wines created by Gavin Hoggand developed, cherry characters. $21.99 who has been in the game since 1973 and from 1980 - 1998 was one ofpalate. Drink soon. $27 the most senior winemakers of the Mildara Evans & Tate Blass empire. He was responsible for makingCABERNET Metricup Road Jamiesons Run, with which he won a JimmyMERLOT Margaret River Watson trophy and produced scores of goldBLENDS Cabernet Merlot medals and more than 20 trophies for his wines,$20-$30 2009 HHH mainly from the famous Coonawarra red dirt. Bordeaux-like style20 TASTED with good fruit Hoggies estate8 AWARDED weight and evolving Cabernet sauvignon complexity. $22.50Blends should add Concentrated blackberry and ripe plums with toasty aromas.to the variety but in Balgownie Black Intense blackberry and cassis fruit with a hint of chocolate andthis case some green Label Bendigo mint, the soft oak tannins and mouth filling fruit permeatesmerlot characters have Cabernet Merlot through to the back palate and lingers longingly.detracted from the 2009 HHHmix. “Some of these Interesting tarry, Coke-may reflect marketing like aromas and big, fat,decisions rather than mouthfilling palate. $24winemaking ones,” saidone judge. The best St Aidan Geographeshowed good fruit and Cabernet Merlotgood winemaking. 2009 HHH Nice claret-like aromaticsWyndham Estate and simple, well-George Wyndham balanced palate withFounder’s Reserve lingering flavours. $24Langhorne CreekAdelaide Hills Celestial BayCabernet Merlot Margaret River2007 HHHH1/2 Cabernet MerlotA big, classy wine, 2007 HHHgreat red hues and some A nicely evolvedlovely tarry complexity and well-balanced,on the nose and with a herbaceous, green styletannic elegance to the of wine. $20firm, well- structured,palate. $21.99 CABERNET SAUVIGNONCowaramup Wines $20-$25Clown Fish MargaretRiver Cabernet 29 TASTEDMerlot 2010 HHHH 12 AWARDEDFresh floral fragranceslead on to a fleshy palate The judges expectedshowing big, red fruit more from this flightflavours and chunky oak of wines. “Too manynicely wrapped in a firm had a touch of hauntingtannin structure. $25 greenness,” said one judge. “A touch is ok butBethany Vineyards it needs some strengthBarossa Cabernet of fruit to back it up.”Merlot 2008 HHHH Maybe shaded fruit orLovely chocolaty depth overcropping is an issue,”to the bottle-aged suggested another.nose and a stylish andfleshy palate with nicelyevolving coffee/mochacharacters. $22 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 81

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSKirrihill Tullymore Shingleback CABERNET Majella Coonawarra Taylors JaramanVineyard Clare Valley The Davey Estate SAUVIGNON Cabernet Sauvignon Clare ValleyCabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale 2010 2010 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra2010 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon $25-$35 A black, brooding, Cabernet SauvignonA big, ripe, weighty 2010 HHH1/2 blockbuster smelling 2010 HHHHcabernet with good punch Intense, porty bouquet; 17 TASTED of blackcurrants and Full-bodied wine withof cassis-like varietal some crushed ants. 10 AWARDED vanilla. “A very together plenty of spicy oakfruit and some lovely, Palate has nice light lines A strong flight of well- palate,” said one judge. but well-selectedfresh, well-handled oak of cabernet fruit and a made wines. “Overall Dense licoricey, plum and integrated withcharacters to balance. $20 firm, acid spine. $22.95 the oak here has been fruit flavours with chalky the blackcurrant fruit.Bremerton Coulthard d’Arenberg The High well selected with tannins. Will age well. Typical CoonawarraLanghorne Creek Trellis McLaren Vale vanilla and spice rather cabernet. $29.50Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon than sappy overtones,” 5+ $33 Bowen Estate2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH said one judge. CoonawarraA generous wine with Subdued, tarry, berry Freeman Cabernet Sauvignonbig, chocolaty nose edged aromas and lolly-like, John George Altura Vineyard 2010 HHHHwith mint and spice. fruit palate. Needs time Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Full-on blackcurrant nosePalate dominated by oak. to evolve. $21.95 Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHHH with more of the same onGood flavour depth. $22 Willoughby Park 2010 HHHHH Lovely, fragrant, leafy the palate mingling withKoonara Denmark Cabernet “This screams of varietal aromas layered aniseed and spearmintThe Temptress Sauvignon 2010 HHH Margaret River cabernet,” with lots of caramel elements. A very classyCoonawarra Rich, red aromas noted one judge. Lovely characters. The very lively, wine. $29.60Cabernet Sauvignon with pungent, green lifted leafy/briary/cedary oaky palate has great2010 HHH1/2 undertones. Sweet fruit bouquet and a totally presence. 3-5 $25Inky consistency to the flavours; some alcohol seamless palate withnose with violet depth. fire. $24 plumy, leathery, spicy Sevenhill InigoFirm, lean and long in Celestial Bay flavours. A great drink. Clare Valleythe mouth with a simple Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignonpalate structure. $22 Cabernet Sauvignon 3-5 $32.04 2010 HHHHGuichen Bay 2010 HHH Nose not giving muchVineyards Smells jammy with a away; hints of coffee andMount Benson graceful palate showing cedar. Full-bodied palateCabernet Sauvignon some fruit strength. - lots of everything.2009 HHH1/2 Needs time. $22 Needs time to settle.Nose has a boot polish- Kimbolton Fig Tree “A gambler’s wine!”like character with Langhorne Creekmenthol appeal. More of Cabernet Sauvignon 5+ $25 CDthe menthol showing up 2010 HHHon the sweet palate. $20 Complex, savouryHugo McLaren Vale nose and stylish andCabernet Sauvignon flavoursome palate with2009 HHH1/2 loads of oak. $24Nice, developing, fruit/ Capel Vale Regionalwood aromas. Soft and Series Margaret Rivervelvety in the mouth with Cabernet Sauvignonrich fruit flavours, lingering 2010 HHHacid and tight tannins. $21 Dusty nose with aniseed-Villa Tinto Barossa like intensity. Big, fat,Cabernet Sauvignon varietal palate with tannins2008 HHH1/2 adding length. $24.95Solid, oaky andgenerous wine withlayers of character andhigh level of acidity. $22DAY 1 - JUDGESWalter Clappis Aldo Bratovic Adam EgginsWinemaker/owner of the Former national sales Senior winemaker forHedonist Wine Company. manager for Cooper, Seguin Taylors Wines. WasFormerly winemaker/ Moreau. Industry consultant Dux of Oenology atowner of Ingoldby Wines. for Bullasio wines in Australia Roseworthy. Has judgedAssociate judge at Cowra and Italy. Over 20 years with at the Canberra, Ballarat,and has judged for the Petaluma wines in both Clare and Adelaide wineMalaysia Airlines panel. marketing and winemaking. shows. Winestate’s Has judged in capital city and Australian Winemaker regional wine shows. of the Year 2006.82 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

CABERNET varietal tasting SAUVIGNON 2009 & OLDER ÒBOUTIQUEÊYARRAÊVALLEYÊEXCELLENCEÊINÊEVERYÊBOTTLEÓ $25-$35 30 TASTED 13 AWARDED Some stand-out wines here showing freshness and great fruit intensity. But others had faded fast. “Overworked and over-the-hill,” suggested one judge.Oxenberry FarmThe TrailblazersCabernet Sauvignon2010 HHHHA lift of spicy oak aromascomplemented byblueberry/cassis fruit.Fairly simple palate butwell-made and everythingin balance. 3-5 $30Aramis Vineyards Milhinch Wines SeizeSingle Vineyard the Day BarossaMcLaren Vale Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHHH2010 HHH Dense red wine withA developed wine with lovely nose that isconsumer appeal. Lots dominated by blackcurrantof vanilla and some fruit with molasses notes.leathery characters. Sweet concentration of fruit flavours matched 3-5 $28 with vanilla oak and fineKoonara Ambriel’s grained tannins. GreatGift Coonawarra length. 5+ $30Cabernet Sauvignon2010 HHH JamesÊHallidaySimple, plumy cabernet. AustralianÊWineÊCompanionÊ2012Good concentrationof sweet fruit,overshadowed by oak.Soft tannins. $30Morambro CreekPadthaway CabernetSauvignon 2010 HHHLifted leafy blackcurrantaromas and full-flavoured, sweet fruitpalate. $31.95 ForÊDomesticÊEnquiries ForÊExportÊEnquires CraigÊFennell FrankÊArtufel [email protected] [email protected] www.boatocraigo.com.au July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 83

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS Wise Lot 80 Hartz Barn Wines Woody Nook Margaret River Carriages Reserve Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Cabernet Cabernet Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Perfumed, cabernet Smells leathery with hints Beautifully complex, aromas with leafy notes. of bacon bones. Sweet/ dense red with lifted Good fruit, svelte tannins sour palate with powdery spicy aromas, and very and dusty oak. A very tannins. 3-5 $30 plush and juicy palate nice drink. 3-5 $28 with a lick of floral Geoff Merrill G&W notes. 5+ $32 Chalkers South Australia Crossing Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 Sweet, spicy/cigar-box A big wine with lovely, nose. Nice Bordeaux layered complexity style of palate. Some of plumy, coffee, acidity. Good tannins. $27 chocolaty and spicy characters. Good length. 3-5 $30 CABERNET BLENDSHarrington Glen Scarpantoni Barwick Estates $30-$35Estate Granite Belt The Brothers Block Margaret RiverCabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 9 TASTED2008 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHGreat red colour for its 2009 HHHH1/2 Developed and leathery 4 AWARDEDage. Nose shows nicely Lovely, sweet, mocha/ chocolaty nose and juicy,layered, chocolaty/ menthol bouquet. rich palate with chunky A mixed bag with someleathery aged characters. Sinewy palate; Great tannins. $25 enjoyable wines onDense palate very concentration of sweet show, the best of whichherbaceous with lovely varietal fruit with Shaw Vineyard showed depth of flavour Deep Woods Estatemintiness and chalky chamois-like tannins. $30 Estate Premium to carry the oak. Theretannins. Great cool Canberra Cabernet were some with sour,climate cabernet. $30 Koonara Ambriel’s Sauvignon 2009 HHH acid characters but Margaret River Gift Coonawarra Spicy, fruit cake nose. Lots the best had depth of Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon of blueberry-like flavours, flavour to carry the oak. Merlot 2009 HHH high level of acidity, angular tannins. $25 Blue Pyrenees Estate Cabernet 2009 HHHH Fuddling Cup Merlot 2008 HHHH Leathery, earthy nose and Dense, coffee-like aromas Geographe Cabernet Impenetrably dense full, tannic palate. Quite with some briary and Sauvignon 2009 HHH red colour with a very chewy, long and well- leafy elements. Complex Appealing, vanilla/ complex nose that’s textured. 3-5 $32 and layered on the palate blackberry aromas not giving much away. and very soft in the and full-bodied, oak- The palate is still very Indigo Beechworth mouth. 3-5 $30 dominated palate. $26 tannic needs to settle. Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot DogRidge Square Reillys Dry Land 5+ $34 2008 HHH Cut McLaren Vale Clare Valley Fragrant, spicy, sweet Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon bouquet and good 2009 HHH1/2 2006 HHH Bordeaux style of palate Fragrant, briary/plum Pleasant leathery with nice bottle age. $32 nose and dense, mid- development on weight palate with good the nose and good length of primary fruit secondary flavours with and chewy tannins. chalky tannins. $29 3-5 $25DAY 2 - JUDGES Clare Dry Andrew La Nauze Currently Winemaker Winemaker at Yalumba Rebecca Kennedy at Wolf Blass Wines. Winery. Previously Senior winemaker at Bachelor of Oenology at winemaker at Norfolk Boar’s Rock for the past Adelaide University. Has Rise, Robe and St two years. Previously she vintaged in Mornington Hallett, Barossa Valley. worked with Langhorne Peninsula and the Pfalz Has vintaged in Alsace Creek and Norman region of Germany. and completed the Wines. Associate judge at AWRI (Australian Wine Adelaide and McLaren Vale Research Institute) wine wine shows and judge at assessment course. the Riverland wine show. Has vintaged in California.84 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

varietal tastingCABERNET Geoff Merrill Our premier selection.BLENDS Pimpala Vineyard Hand-crafted in exceptional$35-$50 McLaren Vale vintages from our single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon estate in high-elevation Orange.16 TASTED Merlot 2004 HHH1/28 AWARDED Porty nose with an earthy touch. Great concentrationSome very nice of varietal fruit on theexamples but some palate with lots of charryshowed overly pungent oak. 3-5 $36oak characters that let Brookland Valleythem down. Margaret River Cabernet SauvignonPreston Peak Single Merlot 2010 HHHVineyard Granite Belt Upfront cassis fruit onCabernet Sauvignon the nose. Lovely, juby,Carmenere raspberry flavours leaving2008 HHHHH you wanting more. $44.99A complex and typicallycool-climate style with Top 100 Wine Top 10 ofdense, red hues and Australian Wine Competition andsmelling cedary and Vintages 2012 Gold Medal Syrahleathery. Great length du Monde 2011of lovely sour cherryflavours with a stalkyelement and good oakbalance. $38Windows EstateMargaret RiverCabernet PetitVerdot MalbecMerlot 2010 HHHHLeafy, cigar box varietalnose and a finely puttogether palate withsome fresh tomato leafand tobacco characters.Great overall balance. $35Evoi The SatyrReserve MargaretRiver Cabernet God’s Hill AmoSauvignon Petit Rosso BarossaVerdot Merlot Valley CabernetCabernet Franc Sauvignon Shiraz2010 HHHH Merlot 2006 HHHCool mint and cassis A complex andbouquet, and a very developed blend that’sfresh, very oaky palate full of lovely fruit andhigh in acid and with very soft tannins. $45drying tannins. One for Stonyfell Bin 62the cellar. 5+ $42 Langhorne Creek Cabernet SauvignonSevenhill St Ignatius Shiraz MalbecClare Valley 2009 HHHCabernet Merlot Tarry, leathery nose -Cabernet Franc some violets and anMalbec 2009 HHHH appealing, plum-filledAppealing choc-mint palate. $40.99aromas and greatconcentration ofblackcurrant fruit flavourswith rich, velvetytannins. Be great at aBBQ. 3-5 $35 CD facebook.com/cumulusestatewines twitter.com/cumuluswines www.cumuluswines.com.au July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 85

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSCABERNET Credaro Family CABERNET Pertaringa Rifle Chateâu LoudenneSAUVIGNON Estate Margaret River SAUVIGNON & Hunt Adelaide Cru Bourgeois2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 & OLDER Cabernet Sauvignon Médoc Bordeaux$35-$50 2010 HHH1/2 $35-$50 2009 HHHHH 2009 HHHHH Light, fragrant aromas A blockbuster of a The classic cabernet13 TASTED and an oaky palate 31 TASTED cabernet with intense, nose of blackcurrants8 AWARDED with some decent fruit 24 AWARDED cassis aromas over a and cedar - very underneath - still very background of perfumed intense. The beautifullyAs expected for this price fresh - and hot on the A very good class! oak. Elegant fruit palate, balanced, solid fruitlevel, this was a strong finish. $40 Consistently strong well- structured and palate is packed withclass showing good fruit across the board with perfectly balanced. oak and laced withand good winemaking. Mills Reef Elspeth lovely elegance at the top A good cellaring wine. some incredible tannins. Trust Vineyard level. Those that were Stylish and classy. $48Bird In Hand Gimblett Gravels developed and tired didn’t 5+ $39Adelaide Hills Hawkes Bay make the grade.Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2A dense, crimson wine Sweet berries on thewith a lifted, peppery nose, almost cordial-nose and a solid and like and an elegantintense, seamless, palate showing lovelyblack-cherry palate - freshness. Has potentialplenty of weight with anice line of fine tannins 5+ $45and crisp acid. $35 Woody NookGartelmann Rylstone Gallagher’s ChoiceCabernet Sauvignon Margaret River2010 HHHH1/2 Cabernet SauvignonVery appealing, lifted 2010 HHH1/2cabernet aromas with Leathery, earthy nosea stress on the floral. with a nice peppery lift.The savoury palate has Very varietal blackberrygood structure, some palate with nicely roundedattractive, chewy tannins tannins. 3-5 $45and good backbone ofacid. $35 Butler Crest Margaret RiverRedman Coonawarra Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH Sittella Berns Reserve Balgownie2010 HHHH Fresh nose with leafy, Margaret River Estate BendigoIt’s all very leafy, cassis notes and very Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignoneucalypt and cassis on polished, stewed fruit 2009 HHHHH 2009 HHHH1/2the nose with a palate palate. 3-5 $35.70 Beautiful violet characters Deep red wine withof blackcurrant cordial lift off the developed nose lifted, cedary complexitylayered with licorice. Seville Estate Old with its leafy background. on the nose and full-Overall a very good Vine Morgan’s Churchview Excellent length of some bodied palate withdrink. $35 Vineyard Yarra The Bartondale Valley Cabernet Margaret River fabulous flavours - very excellent oak integration, Sauvignon 2010 HHH intense and wrapped in not overly alcoholic A leafy style of Cabernet Sauvignon some beautiful, silky, soft and some really good cabernet. Some leathery 2009 HHHHH development to the “Wow! This is so good,” tannins. 3-5 $38 tannins. 5+ $45 nose; showing fresh fruit flavours. $40 enthused one judge about this deep, red wine. Lovely, cedary complexity to the nose and a palate showing excellent oak/fruit balance and some amazing tannins. 5+ $40DAY 3 - JUDGES Drew Noon MW Andrew Corrigan MW Master of Wine. Master of Wine, wine/liquor Stephen John Owner and winemaker of consultant. Wine educator; Owner/winemaker of Noon Wines, a specialist radio presenter for ABC radio Stephen John Wines. boutique red winemaker. (612 4QR) on ‘Tabletalk’ a wine More than 30 years’ Specialising in cabernet, and food program. Judges at winemaking experience. shiraz and grenache. wine shows including Royal Has judged at Adelaide, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns, and National, and Barossa wine Australian Small Winemakers; shows. Regular Winestate teaches wine courses to the panellist and chairman of trade and public, and is a partner judges at the Winestate wine consultant through ‘eWine’. Wine of the Year Awards.86 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

varietal tastingPalmer Laurance ofMargaret River Margaret River IconCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2Nose bursting with Beautiful, complex noselovely, perfumed varietal and very oaky, Aussiefruit and plenty of cedar style of palate. Goodoak. Similar characters depth and length of fruit/echoed on the powerful oak flavours. $42yet simple fresh palate Palmer Margaretwith good level of River Cabernettannins. 5+ $40 Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2Sandalford Another big wine withEstate Reserve developed blackcurrantMargaret River and olive-like fruitCabernet Sauvignon characters. Nice length,2009 HHHH good depth and verySweet, chocolaty nose warm. $40with some ripe fruit Villa Tinto Albert’sbehind and showing a Block Barossaminty edge. Big, full- Cabernet Sauvignonbodied palate, intense but 2007 HHH1/2simple with good tannins. Quite developed but still holding its fruit. Violet- 3-5 $39.95 like lift to the nose and a toasty, oak-drivenWoody Nook palate. $35Gallagher’s ChoiceMargaret RiverCabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHHAttractive, perfumed, Cellar Door and Winery locatedberry bouquet with a 22 kilometres from Robedusting of cedary oak. on the Robe Penola RoadLovely fruit flavourintensity; very good Open 11am to 4pm weekendstannins - very good and holidays or by appointmentbalance. 3-5 $40 T (08) 8735 7255 | F (08) 8735 7142Mills Reef Elspeth EGimblett GravelsHawkes Bay www.karattawines.com.auCabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHH Become our fan on FacebookBeautiful, cordial-likeblackcurrant varietal fruithere. Lovely varietal lift tothe nose and a palate thathas freshness, eleganceand balance. $45Jacob’s Creek Deep WoodsSt Hugo Coonawarra Estate ReserveCabernet Sauvignon Margaret River2008 HHHH Cabernet SauvignonA different style. 2009 HHH1/2Prominent minty aromas Light, elegant, cooland an attractive, tight, climate style with atannic palate with restrained, slightly leafygood, solid structure nose and nice palateand an abundance of with firm tannins. $45tannins. $49.99Lost Lake WinesPembertonCabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH1/2Nose is a touch leafyand herbal with a floral/violet edge. Good palate- has style, elegance andcomplexity. $35 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 87

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSK1 by Geoff Hardy Plantagenet Mount CABERNET Leasingham ClassicAdelaide Hills Barker Cabernet & BLENDS Clare Clare ValleyCabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2009 HHH $50-$75 Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH A full-bodied, mature, 2006 HHHHHCedary nose has a old red with blackcurrant 26 TASTED Powerful, oaky, alcoholicslight leathery character. fruit and nice tannins. blockbuster with greatIntense fruit palate with 23 AWARDED depth of colour. Smellsa certain style. $35 3-5 $44 of cigar boxes and Barwick Estates cherries. A superb palateRedman Coonawarra The Collectables Very consistent group with intense flavoursCabernet Sauvignon Margaret River of wines, as you would coming from the classy2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon expect at this price. Lots fruit. Plenty of aciditySmells deep and 2008 HHH of good quality wines to left. Drink soon. $56.99serious, and fills the Developed fruit behind choose from. Babich The Patriarchmouth with rich fruit and some cigar box oak with Hawke’s Bayalcohol warmth. $35 an elegant, tight, tannic Taylors St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon structure. $35 Merlot MalbecCredaro Family Sandalford Estate Clare Valley 2010 HHHH1/2Estate Margaret Reserve Margaret Cabernet Sauvignon Some excellent, rich,River Cabernet River Cabernet 2009 HHHHH ripe, mulberry aromasSauvignon 2009 HHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH A massive, oaky/tannic layered with powerful,Cedary oak nose, very Nose smells developed blockbuster with sweet cedary oak. Has a verygood depth of ripe fruit and minty. Tannic berries lifting off the nose nice palate, too! Flavoursflavours, nice tannins palate with fruit to and some lovely varietal of young varietal fruitsand lots of acid. $40 balance and high acid. fruit on the substantial the length of the palate. Peter Lehmann palate that fills the Mentor Barossa 3-5 $39.95 mouth up with wonderful 3-5 $60 NZSaracen Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Geoff Merrill Reserve flavours. 3-5 $60Margaret River 2008 HHH Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon A big, rich, Aussie style. 2006 HHH2009 HHH Lots of everything - fruit, Intense aromas ofA lighter style. Coffee/ oak, tannins and acid. blackcurrant wine gums.vanilla aromas. Soft and Drink now. $42 Big old chocolaty palate.warm in the mouth. Lovely. Drink now. $40Slightly cooked fruitflavours. 2-3 $40National Wine Sponsor for the Australian String QuartetJames Halliday 5 Star Winery9 Wines over 90 points 2012 T 08 8299 7506Cellar Door 87 King William Road Unley E [email protected] To win tickets to the ASQ like us on FacebookNational Distributors:Adelaide Festival City Wines 0402149007 | Melbourne Westwood Wines 0487946333 | Sydney Under the Covers 0403331227 |Brisbane Liquid 1300 668 73688 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

A TOAST TO WINE&SPIRITSASIA2012Wine&SpiritsAsia2012 caps off a very fulfilling four days forexhibitors and ends on a high note with the crowning of winnersfor the RIPE-WSA Cocktail ChallengeAs the lights go down on the 12th edition platform to meet plenty of new contacts Director (Lifestyle) of Singapore Exhibitionof biennial Wine&SpiritsAsia (WSA), one and renew old ones as well. Overall, Services, organiser of WSA2012, asserts:of the region’s largest trade shows of its WSA2012 has been a fruitful event for us.” “The healthy visitor and vibrant sales figureskind, exhibitors must surely be reflecting projected for WSA2012 demonstrateon what has been a very fulfilling four days. Indeed, the WSA Wine Challenge underlines its draw as a premier show in the wineHeld from 17 – 20 April, WSA2012 attracted the importance of Asia as a fast-growing and spirits industry. More significantly,a truly cosmopolitan exhibitor mix, with region for the drinking and appreciation of the positive comments we’ve received formore than 140 exhibitors coming from 27 wine. The event saw hundreds of wines from the 2014 edition proves the show is, and willcountries/regions. Even more impressive across the world taking part to be judged by remain extremely relevant for key industrywas the number of attendees WSA2012 and an international panel of experts headed by players in the global marketplace.”FHA2012 (Food&HotelAsia2012) combined renowned wine critic Mr. Joel Payne. Fittinglyhad witnessed - some 60,000 attendees (44 enough, the “Best Wine” of the show, which Featuring:per cent from overseas) walked through its had also won the title of “Best White”, wasdoors over the course of the show. one that was judged especially suitable for the Asian palate. The ‘Best White’ and “Best WSA2012 featured an international selection Wine” for WSA Wine Challenge 2012 is aof some of the world’s most celebrated 2009 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett by Markuswinemaking regions, with Australia, Austria, Molitor from Germany. The accolades forFrance and Singapore being prominently “Best Sparkling” and “Best Red” wine wasrepresented by group pavilions. picked up by a Prestige Grand Cru NV from France’s Champagne Paul Dethune, and a The French group pavilion showcased 2010 Gatt Old Vine Shiraz from Australia’sa variety of products from food to wine Gatt Wines respectively.and spirits. The French pavilion featuredMr. Hervé Kerlann, President of Maison Adding to the buzz on the show floorKerlann, a winemaker now plying his trade was the first edition of the RIPE-WSAin Burgundy. Mr. Kerlann comments, “We Cocktail Challenge, jointly organised withhave returned to WSA after some time RIPE Australian Fruit Juices, and supportedas we have seen a renewed interest in by the Association of Bartenders andBurgurdian wines and we think that it is Sommeliers Singapore (ABSS).now the right time to make a comeback.” Comprising five categories - cocktail, He continues, “Asia is a very important mocktail, speed bottle cap-opening, flairingregion for us and WSA2012 was an ideal and choya-based cocktail - the event saw over 30 local bartenders and even a pair from further afield, the Maldives and Macau, battling for top honours. More than just a platform for bartenders to show off their skills, the RIPE-WSA Cocktail Challenge also provided a stage for those newer to the art of mixology to expand their horizons in the crucible of competition. All told, it was a very successful show and it is of no wonder some exhibitors are already booking their booth space for the next edition of WSA, slated to take place from 8 – 11 April 2014. Ms. Ting Siew Mui, Project

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS Penfolds Bin 389 Reynella Basket Wise Eagle Bay Cabernet Shiraz Pressed McLaren Margaret River Hong Kong’s Leading 2009 HHHH1/2 Vale Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Boutique Wine & Yachting Simple but very Sauvignon 2009 HHHH good wine. Intense, 2007 HHHH1/2 A full-bodied cabernet Events Company blackberry-like, varietal Attractive blackberry and with complex, cigar box, fruit and some super plum aromas perfectly blackcurrant aromas.Wine Tastings | Sailing Charters oak. Quite oaky on the matched with sweet oak. Tight but powerful palateWine Cruises | Winemaker Talks nose but berry fruit Palate has complexity showing lovely richness peeks through. Superb and maturity with very of flavour. 2-3 $50 Team Building | Sail Training palate. 5+ $59.99 good fruit depth, niceIsland Hopping Trips | Fine Wines tannins and a long finish. Penley Estate Houghton Gladstones Drink now. $51.99 Chertsey Margaret River Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH A great drink now; will A big, rich, juicy, fruit be even better in five style. Nice nose of fresh years. Aromas are a berries. Warm, full- delicate mix of sweet bodied palate showing scented fruit and oak. very good length and Soft and warm in the some lovely tannins. mouth with sweet, fruit flavours. $69.99 3-5 $50.50 Penfolds Bin 407 South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH A very elegant and perfectly integrated style of cabernet with lovely, jubey, sweet varietal fruit, fresh oak and firm tannins. $60 Feathertop Alluvium Capel Vale Reserve Alpine The Scholar Valleys Cabernet Margaret River Blend 2006 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Complex aromas; 2009 HHHH substantial amount of Very fresh, sweet charry oak that sits on varietal fruit and cigar top of nice, sweet fruit. box oak aromas. Lovely, Oak characters carry dense, slightly tannic, through to the palate palate with intense with fruit holding up varietal fruit flavours. well. Good sweetness. High alcohol. $70 2-3 $74.95 Contact us for some great sailing Buller Wines Langdon Peter Lehmann and fellowship in Hong Kong King Valley Cabernet VSV Ruediger Merlot Petit Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon (topped off with some great wine). 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHH Interesting nose - tarry, Subtle, tomato, jam-like www.adelaidecellardoor.com.hk complex and slightly bouquet with some [email protected] perfumed; hints of leafiness. Flavours of violets. Huge tannins on green beans with a www.hongkongyachting.com the palate, “but sort of significant amount of [email protected] appropriate,” said one oak and firm acid. $60 judge. $50 +852 2526 0151 Windance Reserve 801, Tai Yau Building, 181 Johnston Road, Margaret River Wanchai, Hong Kong Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH90 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012 A complexity of cigar box oak and blackcurrant aromas, and quite a lovely, alert, oaky palate that has plenty of length and lovely structure. 2-3 $50

varietal tastingVoyager Estate CJ Pask Declaration Gralyn Estate Reserve Margaret River Hawkes Bay Margaret RiverCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 HHHH Malbec 2007 HHH 2008 HHHHHA medium-bodied This one is all oak but Mature colour and cabernet with very good there’s some attractive aromas. Smells of cedarbalance; attractive mature varietal fruit lurking and berries. Huge, berry fruit, complex beneath. $50 dense palate - excellentcedary oak and plenty of depth of varietal fruit fresh acidity. $60 Chateâu Cantemerle flavours wrapped inForester Estate Bordeaux 2006 HHH some pretty good Yelverton Reserve Very oaky wine with tannins. Drink now orMargaret River lovely bottle age cellar further. $110 Cabernet Sauvignon complexity. Charry La Réserve de 2007 HHHH aromas and a tight Leoville Barton Nutty, chocolaty nose elegant palate. $60 Appellation Saint- with a nice, sweet, Julien Controlée cherry element. The CABERNET 2006 HHHHHpalate is stylish but & BLENDS Mature nose with the simple with good length $75-$200 typical Hessian bag,of sweet varietal fruit and European character. oak. 3-5 $59.99 16 TASTED Nice palate, very freshChateau Musar 14 AWARDED and elegant but also Gaston Hochar intense. Very goodBekaa Valley The judges commented balance, excellent Lebanon 2000 HHHH on the higher level of length, lovely tanninsA soft, simple, old- complexity found in this and alert acid. $79.99 fashioned wine. Cedary group. “There is more to Bird In Hand Nestnose showing lots of talk about here,” said one Egg Adelaide Hills leathery development. judge. “Here we have Cabernet SauvignonStill has some sweet fruit the contrast between the 2010 HHHH1/2 on the leathery palate. French and the Australian Very good, young wineDrink now. $72.99 styles, with a few wines with big, beautifully Taylors St Andrews crossing over. lifted, cabernet fruit;Clare Valley blackberries and cassis. Cabernet Sauvignon Bird In Hand Nest Powerful aromas lift off2006 HHH1/2 Egg Adelaide Hills the nose and the huge A fully matured wine with Cabernet Sauvignon palate has balance,very intense aromas. 2009 HHHHH weight and length. Lovely, long, elegant A full-bodied cabernetpalate with depth and with a rich complexity of 3-5 $85 balance enjoy now. $60 minty berry aromas and Hutton Triptych a very generous palate Margaret River with a silky smooth Cabernet Sauvignon texture, powerful sweet 2009 HHH fruit flavours and high in Quite an oaky wine with alcohol. $85 a spicy perfumed lift to the nose and high acid Te Mata Estate palate. $50 Coleraine Hawkes Johner Lyndor Bay Cabernet Wairarapa Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Merlot 2009 HHH Cabernet Franc Leafy, minty aromas and 2008 HHHHH nice, velvety texture to “A beautiful stylish and the simple palate. $50 luxurious wine,” said d’Arenberg The one judge. Nose of Coppermine Road black berries and struck McLaren Vale matches - smells freshCabernet Sauvignon and clean. Obvious2008 HHH quality fruit on the palateSuper rich, complex with toasty oak and firmwine with substantial acid. $87.99alcohol and needingmore cellaring. $70 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 91

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au

varietal tastingClio Jumilla Spain Willespie Sandalford Château Ducru Tenuta San Guido2005 HHHH1/2 Old School Reserve Prendiville Reserve Beaucaillou Saint- Sassicaia BolgheriDense graphite and tar- Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Julien 2008 HHHHH Castagneto Carduccilike nose, hints of berry 2007 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon No mistaking this is a Italia 2007 HHHHfruit. Palate intense but Very advanced aromas. 2009 HHH cabernet! Obvious leafy Advanced oaky/elegant with a high level Some earthiness mixing Cool region style. cedary aromas and chocolaty bouquet withof acid, nice strength of with boiled lolly-like fruit. Elegant varietal fruit long, elegant palate with a floral/dried flowerfruit flavours and warming Similar things happening showing green bean intense concentration of element. Great palatealcohol. $104.99 on the palate. Good level notes and has some cool fruit and toasty oak. - intense fruit, lovely of tannins. $75 sharp acidity. $90 Great structure. Long- tannins and plenty of Grant Burge term cellaring proposition. acid. 5+ $200 Shadrach Barossa CABERNET Cabernet Sauvignon & BLENDS 5+ $322.42 The Colonial Estate 2008 HHH1/2 $200+ Château Mouton Exile Barossa Rich, Christmas cake-like Rothschild Premier Cabernet Sauvignon complexity to the nose 11 TASTED Cru Classé Pauillac 2009 HHHH and hot, alcohol palate 11 AWARDED 2007 HHHHH Terrific varietal fruit and with quality fruit and Superb, classy wine - excellent oak. Lovely, loads of acid. $79.95 Magnificent! Fabulous perfectly complete with seamless, palate balance; line-up with wines its beautiful cedar, cigar great weight of lifted Chateâu Haut-Bages showing balance, box, violet and blackberry berry fruit. Plenty of acid. Libéral Appellation structure and length. “The characters. Tight and Now or eight years. $220 Pauillac Controlée pinnacle of red wines,” tannic palate structure.Sacred Hill Helmsman Bordeaux Cabernet said one judge. “This is Some excellent Château Margaux Sauvignon Merlot the iconic class that the winemaking skills. $718 Premier Grand Cru 2006 HHH1/2 others try to emulate.” Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Classé Margaux Closed and cedary on Bolgheri 2007 HHHH the nose and showing Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2006 HHHHH A complexity of its age. High level of acid Bolgheri “Middle-age” aromas - blackcurrant and oyster on the palate with a firm, 2008 HHHHH leathery and cedar-like shell-like aromas. Soft tannin structure. $93.99 Mature, oaky bouquet with a dash of berry and stylish palate with Sirromet Private shows interesting tomato fruits. Incredible length silky soft tannins, Collection LM paste-like characters. to the generous palate nutty oak and a lovely Assemblage Lovely palate, great and packed with structure. $1140.49 Granite Belt flavour concentration and massive tannins andHawkes Bay Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon amazing oak tannins - still plenty of acid. Needs Hundred of ComaumSauvignon Cabernet Petit Verdot Merlot quite aggressive. High more time. $239.99 Reserve - The TaxFranc Merlot 2010 HHH acid. “Could go another Stonyridge Larose Collector Coonawarra2009 HHHH Fresh, sweet 80 years!” $250 Waiheke Island Cabernet SauvignonBig purple wine - huge blackcurrants on the Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHHaromas of sweet oak and nose and juicy, jubey and Chateau Merlot Malbec Petit A classic, youthful cedarplum jam. Slightly warm syrupy in the mouth. $99 Haut-Brion Premier Verdot Cabernet and blackcurrant nose.in the mouth; pleasant Grand Cru Classé Franc 2008 HHHH1/2 Stylish and elegantvarietal fruit flavours Pessac Leognan A high acid, full-bodied in the mouth - lovelywith sweet oak behind. 2007 HHHHH cabernet blend with varietal fruit quality and aDrinking well now or A big, ripe wine with masses of opulent, touch warm. $259cellar it. 5+ $84.99 very good depth of aromatic, cherry/sweet elegant, blackcurrant- blackberry fruit, scentedSonglines Estates like fruit not overly oaky. oak and grippy tannins.McLaren Vale Great powdery tannins, Showing great powerCabernet Sauvignon excellent sweet and depth. $220 NZ CD2009 HHHH oak. “The completeMature, baked fruit package, according to STAR RATINGS nose with layers of oak. one judge. $866.63Powerful and complex Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofpalate with rich, berry Grand Vin De excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.fruit flavours and soft, Chateau Latour All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industrycreamy oak to balance. Premier Grand Cru professionals and are compared in peerHigh acid. $110 Classé Pauillac classes by three judges. 2007 HHHHH CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,Sandalford An excellent massive, a major mail-order business.Prendiville Reserve full bodied style but it CD Cellar door price.Margaret River shows lovely subtlety. CDO Cellar door only.Cabernet Sauvignon Lovely lift of sweet SO Sold out.2008 HHHH blackberry fruit and light $N/A Price not available at time of printing.Developed wine for touch of oak. Silky in thedrinking soon. Musty, mouth with plenty of  Contact information pg 160.cedary aromas on the acidity. $1139.72nose and a powerful, RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).varietal fruit palate. QuiteFrench-like in style. $90 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 93

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONSCHILD-FRIENDLY ONE-STOP SHOP Catholic Girl and Naked Run, which can beCELLAR DOOR FOR FINE FARE hard to find – and wines can be matched with tasting platters of regional produce.IT CAN often be hard for parents to enjoy THE Clare Valley has a new, one-stop Wine flight wines will change weekly, alwaysa wine tasting when they have children shop for baked goods, wine tastings and providing a fresh experience. The on-sitedemanding their attention. That problem homewares with the opening of The Little Red homewares store sells jewellery, candles,has been solved by a new innovation at the Grape. Baking everything from oven-warm soft and interior furnishing items, includingKirrihill cellar door in Clare – a designated bread to apple pies on site, the Little Red linen, cushions and doona covers. The Littlechildren’s club area. Younger visitors to the Grape also has a cellar door offering visitors Red Grape is open seven days a week, withtasting room, directly underneath the Artisan’s the chance to try wines from several boutique the bakery running from 7am to 5pm andTable restaurant, are given a special gift pack producers who do not have their own tasting homewares and cellar door open from 10am.with crayons, water, lollies, balloons and a facilities. All food sold over the counter is You’ll find it at Main North Rd, Sevenhill;colouring-in page, and are directed to an area made on the premises – and the bakery is phone (08) 8843 4088.where they can mingle with other youngsters.With many visitors to Clare basing themselves open seven days a week producing artisan- FOCUS IN THE FLINDERSin self-catering accommodation, Kirrihill has style breads and rolls, including sourdough,also launched picnic hampers that are a traditional crusty loaves and ciabatta, along ARKABA Station in the remote andperfect start for anyone planning a picnic with sweeter items, including muffins and fruit beautiful Flinders Ranges, north of theor a light meal. Containing a bottle of shiraz, tarts. Meat from local butchers is used in the Clare Valley, has teamed with leadingolive oil, dukkah, tapenade pate and Turkish pies, while sandwiches and filled baguettes travel photographer Richard L’Anson forbread, the hampers cost $40. For anyone are available to eat inside, on a lawn area or a unique photography retreat. The five-planning an indulgent afternoon or evening, to take away, The cellar door is designed to day photography retreat will run fromKirrihill has also put together gift packs give exposure to labels like Erin Eyes, Good September 20-24, 2012, at the luxurycomprising a bottle of moscato or pinot rosé, 1850s homestead property renowned formacarons, a pack of gourmet sweets and two its wilderness experiences, glam campingsparkling wine flutes. The packs cost $30. In and gourmet dining. L’Anson will lead theaddition to offering tastings of the entire range group, a maximum of 10 photographers, inof Kirrihill wines, the vast majority of which guided sessions around several backdropscost under $20, the cellar door also sells a throughout the private wildlife sanctuaryrange of local olive oils and other gourmet to capture the spectacular landscape.products. Kirrihill has only been in business Focal points will include the majesticfor 13 years, but is the second largest winery and dramatic Wilpena Pound, craggyin the region with winemaker Donna Stephens sandstone bluffs and dry creek beds linedproducing some outstanding wines. Kirrihill is with river red gums. A review session ofon Wendouree Rd, Clare, and is open daily each day’s images will take place at thefrom 10am-4pm; phone (08) 8842 4087. historic Arkaba Woolshed, followed bywww.kirrihillwines.com.au.RISING SUN SHINESALSO in Auburn, the popular Rising Sunhas new owners and has been given aspruce up and boasts it has the best winelist in the region, while also offering heritageaccommodation. Cygnets cafe is open forlunch Thursday-Monday and for dinnerson Friday and Saturdays, while Cogwebs,just across the road, has bikes for hire onwhich to explore the Riesling Trail and alsooffers internet facilities. Rental prices startfrom $25 a half day and $40 for a full day.94 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

travelbriefs NEW LOOK FOR RUSTIC RETREAT LEASINGHAM SITE LOOKING for somewhere rustic to stay VETERAN Clare Valley winemaker Tim in the Clare but within walking distance Adams took on the old Leasingham site of the cafes and the Rising Sun pub in on the edge of Clare township, renamed Auburn? Hillsview Estate is a delightful it Mr Mick’s in honour of his mentor Mick option. Comprised of one worker’s Knappstein, and now operates the stylish cottage that dates back to the 1850s and Mr Mick’s cellar door and restaurant on Pinegrove, a former blacksmith’s forge in the site. Local chef Billy Bain, who was a stone cottage that dates back to the previously in the kitchen of Clare’s Citadel 1860s, the Hillsview accommodation restaurant, is the man behind the pans. is set in beautiful garden surrounds Mr Mick’s menu features a wide range on a working farm, just a 10-minutelunch. A three-course dinner, prepared of tapas-style dishes that may range stroll to Auburn. Guests are greetedby the resident chef, will be paired with from pan-fried haloumi with rocket, pear on arrival with an olive and cheeseSouth Australian wines. Arkaba Station and caramelised onion to prawns with platter, port and chocolates – and home-is part of the hotel collection Wild Bush harissa sauce or crisp fried soft shell cooked breakfasts are delivered toLuxury and is also a member of the Luxury baby mudcrab served with a star anise cottages. Host Kim Bleeker and GrahamLodges of Australia. The retreat rates start and orange glaze. A favourite with locals Richards are both accomplished cooksat $2825 per person based on twin share is the slow-roasted pork belly on crushed – they also run a catering businessand includes all meals, select beverages, new potato with candied shiraz – but – and evening meals are availableaccommodation at the homestead and most visitors opt to share a selection of by request. Each of the country-styleswag camps, on-property transport and dishes. Adams says the menu has an cottages has air-conditioning, wood fire,the five-day photography program. Private emphasis on fresh seasonal produce separate bathrooms (including a deeptransfers, hot-air balloon, fixed-wing scenic and visitors are invited to enjoy wines by bath in Pinegrove), queen-sized beds,flights over Wilpena Pound and other tours the glass. “The business has taken off televisions, music systems with CDsare optional extras. To book contact info@ like the proverbial rocket,” Adams says. and cooking and barbecue facilities. Forarkabastation.com, phone 1300 790 561 or “The wines are selling really well and the details or bookings, phone (08) 8849 2397.see www.arkabastation.com. restaurant is booked out most days.” Mr www.hillsviewestate.com. Mick’s cellar door is open daily 11am-5pmJOIN THE CLUB and the kitchen from 11am-4pm daily, Left: Rising Sun Hotel. and until 7pm on Fridays. You’ll find it at 7 Centre: Mr Mick cellar door.LOVERS of spa baths are well catered Dominic St, Clare; phone (08) 8842 2555. Right: Cogwebs bike hire.for at the Clare Country Club, the largest www.mrmick.com.au.accommodation provider in the district. Opposite pageAll of the 45 rooms and suites have en- Above: Artisan’s Table restaurant and Kirrihill cellar door.suite bathrooms with spa baths, and all Below: Kirrihill cellar door kid’s corner.overlook the adjacent golf course andInchiquin Lake. Facilities on-site include,Conners Restaurant, which serves dinnerseven nights a week, a swimming pooland spa, gym and sauna and a floodlittennis court, along with several barbecueareas. Rooms have satellite TV andwireless internet, and rack rates startfrom $220 a night with several packagesavailable. Clare Country Club is on WhiteHut Rd, Clare; phone (08) 8842 1060.www.countryclubs.com.au. July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 95

116 TASTED72 AWARDEDCLARE VALLEY& SURROUNDING REGIONSA high strike rate for this region known for superb Richmond Groverieslings, but across the board this tasting showed the Limited Releasevibrancy of fruit delivered from other varieties as well. Watervale Vineyards Riesling 2011 HHHHHSPARKLING Lovely fresh and lively citrus/ lime-like aromas with a sweet7 TASTED tropical fruit lift. Has a stylish,5 AWARDED elegant and well-balanced palate with great varietal flavour concentration. $21.99A very solid class of both white Taylors St Andrewsand red sparklings. In particular a Clare Valley Chardonnaynice handling of the reds which 2010 HHHHHshowed just the right amount of A beautifully constructed winesugar and tannin balance. with excellent green hues, reserved white peach and guava fruit characters and nutty oak. Has flavour and length just needs more time in the cellar. $35 Annie’s Lane Quelltaler Taylors Clare Valley Watervale Sparkling Gewurztraminer Shiraz NV HHHH 2011 HHHH Great nose that’s big, rich and Delicate musky floral bouquet porty. Excellent concentration of and well-constructed palate spicy varietal fruit on the long, with precise and elegant rich and powerful palate. $24.99 flavours and textures, and spicy varietal elements. $19 Stephen John WinesCriminal Minds Miss Traugott Cuvee Clare Taylors Clare Valley Pauletts AgedDevine South Australia Valley Sparkling Shiraz Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Release Polish Hill RiverBrut NV HHHHH NV HHH1/2 Nutty oak/lees complexity Clare Valley RieslingDelicate golden hues, complex Interesting complex nose - on the nose and lovely rich, 2007 HHHHHnose with fine yeasty aromas lovely bottle age evident. Long, creamy palate - nicely textured, Big, rich, ripe style withand a well-constructed palate elegant palate with a mouthful very flavoursome and very developed deep greenwith nice range of elegant of rich, sweet, plum fruit. $25 stylish. $19 colour and excellent toastycreamy flavours that linger on Criminal Minds Bonnie development on the nose withafter the wine has gone. $18 Skillogalee Sparkling Semillon Sauvignon Blanc lovely aged, yet still vibrant,Leasingham Classic Clare Riesling NV HHH 2011 HHH buttery flavour profile. $45Clare Valley Sparkling Distinct varietal characters True to style with its freshShiraz 2005 HHHH on the nose with delicious, tropical aromas and long, steelyDeep, dark, fruit cake-like developed riesling flavours. $22 palate. $18aromas with oak prominent.Intensely rich palate showing OTHER WHITE RIESLING Leasingham Classic Clarelovely complexity and attractive VARIETALS Clare Valley Rieslingtarry development. $56.99 & BLENDS 29 TASTED 2005 HHHHH 19 AWARDED A bench mark wine with 9 TASTED fantastic bright green hues, 4 AWARDED A superb line-up of young and beautiful lime freshness on the aged rieslings showing how nose and excellent mouthful of Hit or miss group with the hits good the region is for this citrus flavours layered with lovely being the chardonnays which is variety and how well it ages toasty development. $39.50 a surprise as the region is not across the board. known for this variety.96 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

regional tastingLeasingham Mockingbird Hill ARTWINEBin 7 Clare Valley Riesling Reserve Clare Valley2011 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2011 HHHH Refreshingly DifferentA beautifully stylish riesling Delicate, powdery, floral aromas Winestate Wine of the Yearwith pretty lime/citrus aromas and lovely controlled power toand vibrant, juicy flavours the deep, sensual fruit palate.with a tight spine of acid. Has “Will develop beautifully,” saidelegance and depth. $19.99 one judge. $26.99Taylors St Andrews Annie’s LaneClare Valley Riesling Quelltaler Watervale2009 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2011 HHHHLovely toasty development on the Gorgeous lift of fresh andnose with typical kero-like notes. delicate perfumed aromas andExcellent rounded flavours with excellent depth of flavoursome,plenty of length and freshness. rich, lime characters on theA classic style. $35 palate. Drink now. $24.99 Taylors Clare Valley Riesling 2011 HHHH Lovely fragrances of ripe limes and orange blossom with big hit of vibrant, varietal flavours on the long, lingering palate. $19 Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHHH Great focus and generosity of lime-like varietal fruit on both the nose and the palate. Has a lifted nose and big, lively flavours. $35Claymore Wines Mr Riggs Watervale Exotic WinesJoshua Tree Clare Valley Riesling 2011 HHH1/2 Vineyard AccommodationRiesling 2011 HHHH Soft floral fragrances and freshAnother benchmark with citrussy palate that’s high Adelaide Hills & Clare Valleydelicate riesling aromas and in acid with good structure, 61 (0)411 422 450beautifully intense lime/citrus freshness and length. $22fruit flavours. Has balance, Taylors St Andrews [email protected] and freshness. $18 Clare Valley Riesling www.artwine.com.auReillys Watervale 2007 HHH1/2Clare Valley Riesling Reserved, toasty bouquet2011 HHHH and nice toasty developmentCitrus varietal fruit with slight obvious on the palate and goodtropical-like edge. Attractive floral acid backbone. $35lift to the nose and nice length Koonowla The Ringmasterand balance to the palate. $18 Clare Valley Riesling 2011 HHH Heady citrus nose with delicate floral lift and juicy, varietal flavours with pristine clean acidity. $15 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E 97

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONSReillys Barking Reillys Dry Land CABERNET CABERNETMad Watervale Riesling Clare Valley Tempranillo SAUVIGNON SAUVIGNON2011 HHH 2010 HHHH BLENDSAttractive subtle varietal Great example of style with 14 TASTEDaromas and nice delicacy to the spicy, red cherry aromas and 8 TASTED 10 AWARDEDlimey palate. Has potential. $15 lovely flavour depth with touch 6 AWARDED A very high standard across theKoonowla Clare Valley of menthol. “Lovely finesse to board here showing lots of pure,Riesling 2011 HHH this wine,” noted one judge. $25 “Some nice, medium-bodied juicy, varietal fruit characters.A clean, stylish wine with Annie’s Lane Winemaker’s drinks,” said one judge.lovely citrussy lines. Nose is Blend Limited Release “Showing elegance and balance.” Reillys Dry Landreserved; palate generous. $20 Watervale Grenache Shiraz Clare Valley CabernetBird In Hand Clare Valley Mourvedre 2009 HHHH Annie’s Lane Winemaker’s Sauvignon 2006 HHHHHRiesling 2011 HHH A simple quaffer with an Blend Limited Release Deep mature coloursTight, reserved nose with a attractive, savoury nose and Watervale Cabernet and intense menthol andlong, elegant, sweet/sour palate lovely depth of chocolaty Sauvignon Cabernet Franc blackcurrant fruit on both thethat has plenty of length. $25 richness lifted with nice Shiraz Merlot 2009 HHHH nose and the palate that isReillys Watervale Riesling spiciness in the mouth. $29.99 Elegant but complex aromas and nicely balanced with well-2010 HHH Taylors Winemaker’s lingering flavours. Some lovely matched, spicy, toasty oak andMature aromas and soft, Project Clare Valley blackberry varietal characters has plenty of length. $29toasty/ripe lime fruit palate; G.S.M. 2010 HHH1/2 with elements of violets anddeveloping well $18 Medium bodied with nicely mint. Good level of oak. $29.99 Reillys RyderKnappstein rounded bramble and red berry Clare Valley CabernetHand Picked Clare Valley fruits balanced with good acidity Knappstein Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2Riesling 2010 HHH and powerful tannins. $34 Clare Valley Cabernet Great depth of bright purpleVery light style; surprisingly Stephen John Wines Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 hues with intense blackberry-fresh with good depth of citrus The Loquat Tree Clare Nicely balanced wine with lifted like aromas. Elegant and stylishfruit and tight acidity. $20 Valley Mourvedre Shiraz spicy/cigar box aromas and palate with lovely concentration 2010 HHH lovely fresh flavours with very of sweet fruit expression.ROSÉ Complex, spicy, earthy aromas soft tannin profile. $22 Excellent length. $13 and interesting range of spicy4 TASTED fruit flavours. Lots of oak. $20 Skillogalee Trevarrick0 AWARDED Taylors Clare Valley Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2OTHER RED Dark purple wine with good Lovely cool climate style withVARIETALS intensity of pretty aromatic lifted minty/spicy nose and nice& BLENDS fruits on a soft, flavoursome depth and lift to the red berry palate. $19 palate. $7013 TASTED Artwine Clare Valley7 AWARDED Tempranillo 2010 HHH Skillogalee The Cabernets A big, rich, traditional style with Clare Valley CabernetSome promising wines chocolaty aromas and lovely Sauvignon Cabernet Francparticularly with the GSMs and savoury flavours. $25 Malbec 2009 HHHa couple of nice tempranillos. Stephen John Wines Attractive medium-bodied wine Clare Valley Pinot Noir - nicely balanced with lifted ripeJUDGES 2009 HHH cabernet fruit. $27.50 A big, rich, savoury style with nice complexity and good Stephen John Wines varietal fruit characters. Drink Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH now. $25 Complex and fully developed excellent food wine ready for drinking now. $15 Taylors Eighty Acres Clare Valley Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2008 HHH Complex, developed red with lovely savoury fruit and chocolaty elements. Drink now. $15Stephen John Steve Warrick Jane PaullOwner/winemaker of Direct marketer and wine Freelance wine consultant,Stephen John Wines. More consultant. Formerly sales winemaker and winethan 30 years’ winemaking and marketing manager educator. She is a lecturerexperience. Has judged for the Hamilton Wine in sensory evaluation andat Adelaide, National, and Group. 10 years’ experience fermentation technologyBarossa wine shows. working in McLaren Vale, at Adelaide University andRegular Winestate panellist Coonawarra and the a course trainer for theand chairman of judges at Adelaide Hills. Has judged at Advanced Wine Assessmentthe Winestate Wine of the the Adelaide, McLaren Vale Course. Regular national andYear Awards. and Hobart wine shows. regional show judge.98 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012

Reillys Dry Land regional tasting Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH GET THE Attractive, leafy edged LAST DROP blackcurrant fruit evident here OF PROFIT with nice minty lift to the OUT OF nose and a lovely, long, well- balanced palate. $29 EVERY BOTTLE. Koonowla Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon • A unique, flexible shield 2008 HHHH that protects wine An excellent style with lovely from oxidation complexity of oak, spicy red fruit and soft tannins. Drinking • Extends the life of bottled well now or for the next three- wine for up to 5 days four years. $24 • Inexpensive, easy to deployTaylors St Andrews Leasingham Classic Clare and recycled with the bottleClare Valley Cabernet Clare Valley CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2006 HHHH • Tested by Provisor Labs inBeautifully fresh varietal Quite a closed nose - needs air Australia and ETSfruit with a slight touch of but a very alert palate with an Laboratories in NAPAearthiness mingles with toasty abundance of subtle dark fruits,oak and has a nice tannin powerful tannins and well- • International Distributionpresence. Good food wine handled oak. $56.99 Agreementsthat’s drinking well now. $60 Reillys Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon • Recipient of Australian 2009 HHH1/2 Design Mark & New A lovely fresh and flavoursome Inventors Award cabernet with plenty of toasty oak and attractive, earthy, spicy • Patent & Trademark protected elements. $18Kirrihill Tullymore Mt SurmonVineyard Clare Valley Clare Valley CabernetCabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/22010 HHHH Very ripe style - almost portyA very classy wine! Bright inky and brimming over with richchocolate richness on the nose raspberry varietal fruit showingwith dense, powerful, cabernet minty freshness. $25fruit flavours. Just needs timein the cellar. $20 SHIRAZ & BLENDS 29 TASTED 19 AWARDED Generally a strong and consistent class. “In the main these showed vibrant and bright berry fruit flavour,” noted one judge. “With good winemaking across the board.” There was some fall-out from wines that were a touch forward.Claymore Wines Holy Grail Leasingham Classic Clare www.wineshield.comClare Valley Cabernet Provis VineyardSauvignon 2009 HHHH Clare Valley ShirazLovely, elegant style with great 2008 HHHHHcolour and intense, cabernet Beautifully focused sweetfruit. Subtle aromas and mulberry fruit layered withflavoursome, well-structured, complex, vanilla oak characters.round, rich palate. $20 Lovely balance, length and freshness with a silky smooth mouthfeel. $56.99 HBT/WPR113/A 99 July/August 2012 W I N E S TAT E

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS Reillys Clare Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Rich, ripe, vibrant and nicely textured shiraz with creamy, raspberry-like fruit characters, subtle oak and barrel ferment complexity. $18Kirrihill Regional Range Stephen John WinesClare Valley Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz2010 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2Excellent complexity of sweet Rich, ripe, mulberry-like shirazoak, intense rich mulberry fruit fruit with a fresh eucalypt liftand beautiful barrel ferment and balanced by stylish, well-characters with good level handled oak with lovely depthof acidity. It just needs a few and length of clean, brightyears in the cellar. $20 flavours. $25 Claymore Wines Nirvana Skillogalee Basket Annie’s Lane Reserve Clare Valley Pressed Clare Valley Coppertrail Clare Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Stylish purple/red wine with A huge wine - great colour. Subtle plum and raspberry intense Cherry Ripe-like aromas Rich, concentrated and oaky aromas with some nice and full-on berry fruit flavours with with intense depth and length concentration and freshness lovely length and persistence, and of plum fruit and blackberry of fruit, oak and tannins on the matched by nice, dusty oak. $45 varietal characters. $27.50 palate. $53.99 Wine Options Lunch Friday September 14th 2012 12pm - 3pm @Crowne Plaza Adelaide, Hindmarsh Square Adelaide Australia Israel Chamber of Commerce will host its 2nd Wine Options Lunch. A five-course degustation menu prepared by Crowne Plaza’s Head Chef, matched with premium South Australian wines To book visit www.aicc.org.au Or phone 8221 7004100 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2012