Winestate Magazine September October 2019

regional tasting Brennan Gibbston Misha’s Vineyard Wild Earth Central Brennan Gibbston Brennan Gibbston Central Otago Pinot Limelight Riesling Otago Riesling Central Otago Central Otago Gris 2018 HHHH 2015 HHHHH 2017 HHHH1/2 Orange Muscat 2018 HHHH Already very enjoyable, Drinking beautifully now, Bright, light lemon/ 2017 HHHHH This “playful”, clearly this bright, light lemon/ this Bendigo wine was green, this single- A memorable mouthful, varietal wine is green wine is full- partly (22%) fermented vineyard wine was this blend of pinot gris mouthfilling and bodied, with strong with indigenous yeasts hand-picked at Bendigo. (73%), muscat (15%) perfumed, with strong, stonefruit and spice in old French oak barrels. Fragrant, it is medium- and riesling (12%) vibrant, peachy, appley flavours, fresh, balanced Bright, light lemon/ bodied, with strong, was made “following flavours, a splash of acidity, a touch of oak- green, it is a finely vibrant, grapefruit and ancient winemaking sweetness and lively derived complexity and scented, medium- lime flavours, a hint traditions”, including acidity. Finely balanced, an off-dry finish. Best bodied wine with rich, of spice, and a finely fermentation on skins vigorous and youthful, drinking mid-2020+. $35 vibrant, citrusy, peachy, balanced, off-dry, for two months in old it should be at its best appley flavours, toasty, lingering finish. Best French oak barriques. 2020+. $50 Devil’s Staircase bottle-aged notes adding drinking 2021+. $27 Probably at its peak Domain Road Central Otago Pinot complexity, a gentle (UK, US) now, it is highly aromatic Vineyard Gris 2018 HHHH splash of sweetness, and full-bodied, with Bannockburn Drinking well in its appetising acidity, and Three Miners an orange/slight amber Central Otago youth, this is a full- lovely balance, delicacy Central Otago hue, deep, peachy, Sauvignon Blanc bodied, fleshy wine with and intensity. $28 (A) Riesling 2017 HHHH spicy flavours, showing 2017 HHHH ripe, peachy, slightly Brennan Gibbston Invitingly scented, this excellent complexity, This lively, full- spicy and gingery Central Otago lively, light-bodied, gentle tannins and loads flavoured wine was flavours, fresh and Riesling estate-grown wine of interest. $50 hand-harvested and generous, and an off-dry, 2018 HHHH1/2 was hand-picked at Brennan Gibbston partly (42%) French well-rounded finish. This powerful young Earnscleugh, near Central Otago oak-fermented. It (From Rockburn). $26 wine is full-bodied, Alexandra. Pale lemon/ Gewürztraminer has good intensity of (A, UK) with fresh grapefruit green, it has citrusy, 2018 HHHH1/2 citrusy, herbaceous and peach flavours, slightly appley flavours, Finely poised and flavours, with a subtle RIESLING showing good ripeness showing excellent youthful, this estate- seasoning of oak adding and richness. Bright, delicacy and depth, and grown wine has an complexity, and a slightly 6 TASTED light lemon/green, a slightly sweet, finely invitingly perfumed, nettley bouquet. $23 (A, 6 RECOMMENDED with gentle sweetness balanced finish. Drink floral, spicy bouquet. UK, US) and lively acidity, it’s now or cellar. $23 Mouthfilling and fresh, it Riesling is Otago’s a generous, finely is strongly varietal, with greatest white wine, balanced wine, well OTHER rich, yet delicate, peachy, although it is still worth cellaring. $33 WHITES spicy flavours, a slightly more popular with Ceres Black Rabbit oily texture, and obvious winegrowers than the Vineyard Central 7 TASTED potential. Best drinking public. The region’s semi- Otago Riesling 7 RECOMMENDED 2021+. $40 continental climate, 2018 HHHH1/2 Brennan Gibbston with marked daily and This attractively scented Aromatic white wine Central Otago Trio seasonal variations of Bannockburn wine has varieties, such as 2018 HHHH1/2 temperature, coaxes a Mosel-like balance gewürztraminer, Already enjoyable, out the variety’s most and lightness. Bright, flourish in Otago’s cool, this is a skilfully intense aromas and light lemon/green, it is typically dry growing balanced blend of three flavours. The tasting vivacious, with strong conditions. Sauvignon aromatic varieties - included impressive lemon/lime flavours, blanc, enriched by barrel gewürztraminer (45%), examples of riesling gentle sweetness and fermentation, is also riesling (45%), and from three sub-regions fresh acidity. Already yielding some lively, muscat (10%). Bright, – the Cromwell Basin, delicious, it’s ageworthy nettley, ageworthy wines light lemon/green, Gibbston and Alexandra. too. $28 (UK, US) with good structure and with a perfumed, Maori Point Single complexity. gently spicy bouquet, Vineyard Central it is full-bodied and Otago Riesling vibrantly fruity, with a 2018 HHHH1/2 splash of sweetness Fragrant, fresh and excellent depth of and punchy, this stonefruit and spice medium-dry wine was flavours, finely balanced hand-picked in the and lingering. Best Mondillo vineyard, at drinking mid-2020+. $33 Bendigo. Attractively scented, it has good vigour and intensity of citrusy, slightly appley and peachy flavours, threaded with lively acidity, and a persistent, very harmonious finish. $28 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 101

OTAGO - Centr al O ta g o & Wa it a k i Va lley Queensberry Three Miners Rocker Carrick Domain Road Rockburn Central Gardens Reserve Box Central Otago Bannockburn Vineyard Defiance Otago Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot Noir Rosé Central Otago Pinot Central Otago Pinot 2017 HHHHH Chenin Blanc 2018 HHHH Noir 2017 HHHHH Noir 2017 HHHHH Instantly attractive, this 2018 HHHH This vivacious, single- This ageworthy, This powerful, single- fragrant, full-bodied This vibrantly fruity wine vineyard rosé was hand- organically certified red vineyard Bannockburn regional blend was was hand-harvested in picked near Alexandra. was estate-grown and red was hand-picked and grown principally the Cromwell Basin, Bright, pale pink, it is matured in French oak matured for 10 months at Parkburn, in the barrel-fermented and freshly scented, with barriques. Full-coloured, in French oak barrels Cromwell Basin, with a lees-aged in old oak. strawberryish, slightly it is mouthfilling, (29 per cent new). Deep small component (12%) Medium-bodied, it is peachy and spicy flavours concentrated, savoury and youthful in colour, it from Gibbston. Already very fresh and youthful, and a finely balanced, and structured, with is highly fragrant, with delicious, it is sweet- with citrusy, peachy, fully dry finish. $26 ripe cherry, plum, spice dense, youthful cherry, fruited, with deep, slightly appley flavours, and nut flavours, slightly plum and spice flavours, vibrant cherry, plum and showing a distinct touch PINOT NOIR earthy notes adding showing excellent spice flavours, seasoned of complexity, and a complexity, real depth vigour, concentration with French oak (35% dryish, lengthy finish. 33 TASTED through the palate and a and structure. Best new), and excellent Best drinking mid- 33 RECOMMENDED long finish. $47 (A, UK) drinking 2022+. $65 (A) harmony and potential. 2020+. $29 Ceres The Artists Misha’s Vineyard The $50 (A, UK, US) Carrick Wild Think Central Otago, Collection High Note Central Rockburn Six Barrels Ferment Central think pinot noir... the Inlet Vineyard Otago Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot Otago Sauvignon great red-wine grape of Bannockburn 2016 HHHHH Noir 2017 HHHHH Blanc 2017 HHH1/2 Burgundy accounts for Central Otago Pinot This floral, very graceful Still very youthful, Certified organic, this nearly 80 per cent of the Noir 2016 HHHHH red was estate-grown this deeply coloured, wine was hand-picked region’s vineyard area. Delicious now, this ruby at Bendigo and matured single-vineyard red was and fermented with This tasting unearthed hued red is fragrant for a year in French grown at Gibbston and indigenous yeasts in an impressive array and sweet-fruited, in oak hogsheads (33% barrel-aged in French tanks and barrels. Bright, of densely packed, a slightly softer style new). Deep ruby, it is oak (30% new). Lush light lemon/green, it is well-structured, very than its Black Rabbit sweet-fruited, savoury and silky-textured, it crisp and nettley, in a ageworthy reds, no Vineyard stablemate and supple, with vibrant has a fresh, fragrant medium-bodied, slightly doubt reflecting the (below). Savoury, nutty plum, spice and nut bouquet of spices and austere style with good impact of advancing vine and complex, it has flavours, silky-textured herbs. Mouthfilling, intensity of herbaceous maturity (to say nothing generous cherry, plum, and lingering. Still with concentrated plum, flavours, a touch of of winemaker maturity.) spice and nut flavours, youthful, it should be at herb and spice flavours, complexity, firm acid that build well to a its best 2021+. $45 (A) balanced acidity, gentle spine and a tight finish. Brennan Gibbston powerful finish. $79 tannins and a finely $22 (A) Central Otago Pinot Doctors Flat Central poised, savoury, lasting Noir 2014 HHHHH Otago Pinot Noir finish, it should be at ROSÉ Still moderately 2016 HHHHH its best from 2022 youthful, this is an This highly ageworthy onwards. $95 (A) 2 TASTED impressively fragrant, red was estate-grown Rockburn The 2 RECOMMENDED rich and complex at Bannockburn, hand- Chosen Single red. Full-coloured, it picked, matured for Vineyard Central Brennan Gibbston is mouthfilling, with a year in French oak Otago Pinot Noir Central Otago Rosé concentrated, ripe barrels (25% new), 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHHH cherry, plum, herb and and bottled unfined “Crafted for immediate Offering easy drinking, spice flavours, savoury, and unfiltered. Deep enjoyment”, this graceful this is a fresh and lively nutty notes, and a long, ruby, it is mouthfilling, Gibbston red is from a blend of tempranillo harmonious finish. $65 savoury and supple, notably early-ripening (70%) and zinfandel with concentrated, ripe season. Bright ruby, it (30%). Light pink/ cherry, plum and spice is fragrant and softly orange, it is medium- flavours and a finely mouthfilling, with deep, bodied, with a sliver structured, lasting finish. very ripe plum, spice of sweetness, a touch Best drinking 2021+. and herb flavours, of tannin, and strong, $47 (UK) savoury, nutty notes peachy, slightly spicy adding complexity, flavours. $40 gentle acidity and a long, well-rounded finish. Weighty, rich and harmonious, it’s already delicious. $65 102 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

regional tasting Tarras Vineyards Wild Earth Central Ceres The Artists Maori Point Grand Valli Waitaki The Canyon Single Otago Pinot Noir Collection Black Reserve Professors’ Vineyard North Vineyard Central 2017 HHHHH Rabbit Vineyard Block Central Otago Otago Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir Delicious now, but Bannockburn Pinot Pinot Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHHH also ageworthy, this Noir 2016 HHHH1/2 2015 HHHH1/2 Still very youthful, this This enticingly fragrant, is a single-vineyard, Ruby hued, with a hint Delicious now, this ruby-hued red was hand- full-bodied red was Bannockburn red, hand- of development, this rare, estate-grown red harvested, matured for estate-grown at Bendigo picked and matured for is a ‘serious’ style, still was matured for two 11 months in French and matured for nine a year in French oak unfolding. Savoury, years in four French oak casks (30% new), months in French oak (27% new). Full, bright with cherry, plum, spice oak barrels (half new), and bottled unfined and casks (32% new). ruby, it is a powerful, and nut flavours, oak and bottled unfined unfiltered. Elegant and Full, bright ruby, it is young, sweet-fruited complexity and a fairly and unfiltered. Ruby supple, it has vibrant vibrant, concentrated and savoury, with a firm finish, it should be hued, it is an elegant, cherry, plum, spice and savoury, with fresh, fragrant, slightly earthy at its best 2021+. $79 savoury, supple wine, and nut flavours, fresh rich cherry, plum and bouquet and fresh, deep Coal Pit Tiwha with strong cherry, plum acidity, savoury notes spice flavours, showing cherry, plum, spice and Central Otago Pinot and spice flavours, nutty adding complexity and excellent complexity, nut flavours, combining Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 and complex. Showing a lingering finish. Best and a finely structured, charm and complexity. Drinking well early, this some maturity, it’s a drinking 2021+. $69 (A, lasting finish. Best $40 (UK, US) estate-grown, Gibbston drink-now or cellaring UK, US) drinking 2020+. $65 Brennan B2 Central red was hand-harvested proposition. $70 Wooing Tree Central Valli Bendigo Otago Pinot Noir and matured for a year Tarras Vineyards Otago Pinot Noir Vineyard Central 2015 HHHH1/2 in French oak casks Central Otago Pinot 2017 HHHH1/2 Otago Pinot Noir Estate-grown at (40% new). Bright Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 This deeply coloured, 2018 HHHHH Gibbston, this savoury, ruby, it is an elegant, Estate-grown in The single-vineyard red This powerful, sweet- finely poised red is supple wine, full-bodied, Canyon Vineyard at was estate-grown at fruited red was hand- drinking well now. Full- with ripe, sweet-fruit Bendigo, this is an Cromwell and French picked, matured for coloured, with a hint flavours, gentle acidity, attractively scented, oak-aged for 11 months. nearly a year in French of development, it is good complexity and a ageworthy red. Full, Full-bodied, it is youthful, oak casks (30% new), fragrant and vibrantly well-rounded finish. $57 bright ruby, it is with concentrated, and bottled unfined fruity, with ripe cherry, (A, UK) mouthfilling, savoury vibrant, plummy, spicy, and unfiltered. Deep, plum and spice flavours, Domain Road and supple, with strong slightly nutty flavours, bright ruby, it is sturdy a hint of herbs, good Bannockburn cherry, plum and spice showing very good and concentrated, tannin backbone and Central Otago Pinot flavours, finely balanced complexity, fresh acidity with strong, ripe plum, excellent depth. $35 Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 tannins and impressive and fine-grained tannins. cherry and nut flavours, Brennan Gibbston This powerful young red complexity. Best Well worth cellaring, well-structured, youthful Central Otago Pinot was estate-grown, hand- drinking 2021+. $40 it should be its best and long. Best drinking Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 harvested and matured Valli Bannockburn 2021+. $48 (A, UK, US) 2023+. $69 (A, UK, US) Probably at or near for 10 months in French Vineyard Central Valli Gibbston its peak, this fragrant, oak casks (26% new). Otago Pinot Noir Vineyard Central full-coloured red is Deeply coloured, it is 2018 HHHH1/2 Otago Pinot Noir mouthfilling, supple and vibrantly fruity, with This powerful, very 2018 HHHHH savoury, with strong, concentrated cherry, savoury, firmly This refined, graceful, plummy, spicy, nutty, plum and spice flavours, structured red was hand- very youthful red was slightly herbal flavours, good tannin support, harvested, matured for hand-harvested, matured showing excellent and obvious cellaring 11 months in French for 11 months in French complexity, and a well- potential; open 2021+. oak casks (30% new), oak casks (30% new), rounded finish. $70 $40 (A, UK, US) and bottled unfined and and bottled unfined and Ceres Composition Dry Gully Central unfiltered. Deep ruby, unfiltered. Ruby hued, Bannockburn Otago Pinot Noir it is full-bodied, with it is floral, savoury and Central Otago Pinot 2017 HHHH1/2 strong, well-ripened supple, with vibrant, Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 Offering good value, this cherry, plum, spice berryish, spicy, nutty, Weighty and supple, Alexandra red is deeply and nut flavours, fresh slightly herbal flavours, this ruby-hued, coloured, with a fresh, acidity and a tight finish. woven with fresh acidity, fruit-packed red is fragrant bouquet. Full- Best drinking 2022+. impressive complexity mouthfilling and bodied and fruit-packed, $69 (A, UK, US) and a lasting finish. Best youthful. Fresh and it has generous, vibrant, drinking 2022+. $69 (A, sweet-fruited, it has plummy, spicy flavours, UK, US) vibrant cherry, plum and nutty, savoury notes spice flavours, good adding complexity, and tannin support, and good tannin support. obvious potential; best Best drinking mid- drinking 2021+. $40 2020+. $32 (UK, US) September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 103

OTAGO - Centr al O ta g o & Wa it a k i Va lley Carrick Unravelled Kuru Kuru Central Volcanic Hills OTHER REDS Central Otago Pinot Otago Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot Noir 2018 HHHH 2016 HHHH Noir 2017 HHHH 1 TASTED This organically Drinking well now, this Still unfolding, this fresh, 1 RECOMMENDED certified red doesn’t is a blend of Bendigo vibrant, supple red was claim Bannockburn and Alexandra grapes, French oak-aged for a Brennan Gibbston origin on its labels, French oak-matured year. Deep ruby, it has Central Otago but is “essentially a for nine months. Ruby very good vigour and Tempranillo declassification of hued, with a hint of concentration, with 2018 HHHH1/2 wine from the Carrick development, it is cherry, plum and spice Already drinking well, vineyards.” Full, bright mouthfilling and savoury, flavours, a hint of herbs, this impressive red ruby, it has very good with generous, spicy, savoury notes adding is New Zealand’s depth of vibrant, ripe, nutty flavours, balanced complexity and a finely southernmost plummy, spicy flavours, tannins and very good balanced finish. Best tempranillo. Deeply savoury notes adding complexity. (From Tarras drinking 2021+. $40 coloured, with a complexity, supple Vineyards). $40 (A, UK) Devil’s Staircase fragrant bouquet, it is tannins and lots of Central Otago Pinot mouthfilling, sweet- drink-young appeal. $29 Rock N Pillar Three Miners Noir 2018 HHH1/2 fruited, savoury and (A, UK) Central Otago Pinot Warden’s Court This skilfully crafted, supple, with generous, Gold Digger Central Noir 2017 HHHH Central Otago Pinot drink-young charmer plummy, berryish Otago Pinot Noir Enjoyable young but Noir 2017 HHHH was matured in tanks, flavours, a hint of 2017 HHHH worth cellaring, this is a Showing good potential, without oak, “to retain herbs, and excellent Drinking well now, this single-vineyard Alexandra this single-vineyard bright fruit”. Deep ruby, depth, complexity and fragrant, generous red red. Deeply coloured, red was grown at with a fresh, fragrant harmony. $45 was hand-harvested, with fresh cherry, plum Earnscleugh, near bouquet, it is full-bodied, fermented with and herb aromas and Alexandra, and matured with ripe plum and spice indigenous yeasts, flavours, gently seasoned for 10 months in French flavours, gentle tannins, matured for a year with French oak, it is a oak barrels (30% and very good depth. It’s in French oak barrels lively wine, generous and new). Deep ruby, it is already enjoyable. $30 (20% new), and supple. $32 mouthfilling and fruit- (A, UK, US) bottled unfined and packed, with strong, ripe unfiltered. Deep ruby, it cherry, plum and spice Pick & Shovel is full-bodied and sweet- flavours, fresh acidity and Reserve Central fruited, with strong, well-integrated oak adding Otago Pinot Noir vibrant, plummy, spicy complexity. An elegant, 2018 HHH1/2 flavours, showing good youthful red, it should be This drink-young complexity. (From Maori at its best 2021+. $38 charmer is ruby Point Wines.) $30 hued, fresh and very harmonious, with ripe, moderately concentrated flavours, showing some savoury complexity, and a smooth finish. $28 Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions! www.winestate.com.au 104 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND September/October 2019 Issue 164 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

winestatepromotion MIKE ZEKULICH CHAMPAGNE Jeeper is an unusual name something different for his vines to stand \"In taking over the brand, they infused for a classy French bubbly but then it out from the various other Goutorbes of the it with a powerful new ambition,\" said M. stems from unusual times – the result region – in what has been a Champagne Ferjou. \"They wanted to cement its place of World War II and the gratitude of the dynasty since the 18th century. in the traditional Champagne market.\" The American army who gave a Willy’s jeep cellars are now located in Faverolles and to Armand Goutorbe, a former owner of \"It was in memory of Armand’s story and Coemy, in Vallée de l’Ardre at the end of Jeeper House. the desire to be different from the other La Montagne de Reims. Goutorbes that led him to rename his It is said that the patriot young winemaker Champagne Jeeper in 1949,\" said Export It is now managed by Nicolas Dubois who saved Americans from certain death Director Samuel Ferjou. \"Previously it had whose family also have a long Champagne during the war only to be badly injured been called Goutorbe Champagne.\" history – registered in the winemaking himself, managed to return to his native tradition since 1764 – and the Reybier Champagne, heartened by the jeep which Thus the entrepreneur known as the family, owner of the prestigious Château enabled him to work the vines and give ‘Jeeper Man’, developed his business Cos d’Estournel, Saint Estèphe, the him the chance to get his life and business from its unusual birth – \"his wines created Grand Cru Classé of Bordeaux known back on track. Friendly people of the area in a spirit of audacity, modernity and internationally for their properties in – no doubt amused by an army vehicle accessibility,\" said M. Ferjou. Christian various parts of the wine world. dashing up and down the vineyard slopes, Goutorbe – son of Armand – took over the called him Monsieur Jeeper. business after his father. In 2009 Christian \"The two families have always had at retired and with no one in the family to their hearts the production of high quality The first wines under the label were continue the business, sold the brand Champagne,\" M. Ferjou said. \"Sharing the produced in 1949. And the brand change Jeeper to Dubois Family winemakers and passion and ambition for excellence has suited Armand Goutorbe who wanted true Champenois. linked the two. 106 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

\"Together they pulled out all the stops to breathe new life into Jeeper Champagne and have built a solid, long-lasting brand. \"The Estate is modern and dynamic, with a strong philosophy based on: · Producing high quality Champagnes with our own taste – all our assemblages are made with chardonnay aged in oak barrel. · Growing our vines within sustainable viticulture leading to the certification HVE, High Value for the Environment meaning no pesticides or herbicides are used in developing biodiversity. · Blending traditional winegrowing spirit with modern tools. · Being passionate about what we do and taking good care of all the details.\" Jeeper vines grow over 40 hectares with plots located on the Montagne de Reims, on the Côte des Blancs, in the Vallée de la Marne and in the Vallée de l’Ardre. Jeeper began marketing for the first time in Australia in September 2016. Today the boutique maker producers 250,000 bottles of non-vintage and 5000 reserve bottles on average of vintage wines in a portfolio which include its flagship and best seller Grand Assemblage NV. Other high profile wines include: Grande Réserve Blanc de Blancs, Grand Rosé, Cuvée Naturelle Extra Brut, Premier Cru and Grand Cru. Its vineyards are extended every year in the best locations, mostly in Premier Cru and Grand Cru villages. This is reflected in its strong reviews and awards won using its own fruits that go into its Jeeper Champagne. Its main markets include Europe, USA, the Caribbean and with demand now opening up in Asia. The Australian market is serviced by the exclusive distributor Discovervin. Jeeper is based 15 km from Reims in the north west of the Champagne region. Besides its name and wines the other stand- out feature of Champagne Jeeper is its unusual bottle shape – designed to reduce oxidation and enhance the socalled ‘Jeeper Taste’ – the production of finely balanced wines based totally on barrel-aged chardonnay with great flavour persistence and no harshness, bitterness or astringency. \"Our vinification facilities allow us to make our cuvees with a high level of accuracy,\" said M. Ferjou. \"With 1200 pieces, we’re the third largest company in Champagne area in terms of oak barrels capacity.\" So today, the powerful jeep has given way to tractors but the place of the nimble US war machine lives on in the rich history of France’s great sparkling wines – especially Jeeper. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 107

142 TASTED 93 AWARDED NEW RELEASES Another extremely interesting New Release line-up giving a Kirrihill Wines snapshot of the wine marketplace. After each flight we ask the Regional Selection judges for a class comment. This is great because it sometimes Series Clare Valley brings out trends that are happening that even the winemakers Riesling are unaware of, or are not convinced it is an issue. A couple of 2019 HHH1/2 examples here is the trend for leaner versions of chardonnay Floral fragrances with where fruit flavour is lost in the process, the other is the a perfumed lift and excessive use of oak in alternative varieties where the natural a bright, fresh and fruit density is not capable of handling excessive tannins. crunchy acid driven palate. $19 Eden Hall Springton Eden Valley Riesling 2019 HHH Lifted aromas of limes and lemons with a crunchy apple/citrus palate. $22 SPARKLING Howard Park Mount Barker Great 1 TASTED Southern Riesling 2018 HHH 1 AWARDED Floral/honeysuckle bouquet with a citrusy A good easy drinking palate and good acid Yealands VBBAEULSYUTSE style. balance. $34 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Haha Marlborough SAUVIGNON 2019 HHHH1/2 Hawke's Bay Brut BLANC & A lovely nose smelling Rosé NV HHH BLENDS of cut grass, asparagus Delicate peach blossom and green peas with aromas and attractive 8 TASTED a zesty herbaceous creamy palate tasting 6 AWARDED and passionfruit palate of citrus and peaches. showing a good line of $21.99 Expressive group with crisp acidity. $17.99 some showing green RIESLING herbaceous fruit while Taylors Wines Estate others had tropical Adelaide Hills 6 TASTED characters and some had Sauvignon Blanc 6 AWARDED both! 2019 HHHH Pungent herbaceous Consistent class with Stage Door Wine Co. Eden Hall Reserve aromas with hints of the new 2019 vintage on Green Room Eden Eden Valley Riesling passionfruit that is show with good colour, Valley Riesling 2019 HHHH echoed on the aromatic fruit intensity and floral 2019 HHHH Delicate lift of floral and palate. A great line of lift. “These are young A freshness of limes and citrus blossom aromas. acid. $20 and need time,” advised lemons lift off the nose. The palate is tightly one judge. Tight youthful palate coiled with candied Giesen Pure Light has great fruit intensity musk-like flavour profile. Marlborough Settebello Freya And and acid/sugar balance. Sauvignon Blanc Jules Clare Valley 3-5 $35 2018 HHHH Riesling 2019 HHHH 3-5 $25 Big flavoursome style Attractive floral/muscat with complexity of bouquet with a crisp herbaceous and tropical acid palate that shows a aromas and lively palate good balance of sweet with good acid/sugar and minerally flavours. balance. $16.99 108 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Andrew Peace Haselgrove Wines CHARDONNAY Pemberley Saracen Estates Wines Masterpeace Alternative Series & BLENDS Pemberton Margaret River Victoria Sauvignon McLaren Vale Fiano Chardonnay Chardonnay Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHHH 14 TASTED 2018 HHHH 2017 HHH1/2 Sweet tropical fruit Fragrant floral peachy 8 AWARDED A well made, seamlessly A flavoursome style with bouquet with the classic aromas and a lingering balanced, wine with citrus and melon fruit, light tropical varietal candied musky flavour A mixed group with lively pear and apple fruit savoury oak characters fruit flavours on a zesty profile with lovely racy some excellent wines characters and excellent and bright acidity. $35 palate. $13 line of acidity. $26 and some borderline use of classy oak. $32 Three Ponds Hunter ones that lacked fruit. Bury the Hatchet Antiquities Pertaringa Fiano 2019 HHH1/2 “The fashion of leaner South Australia South Australia Scarecrow Adelaide Perfumed candied elegant styles is an issue Chardonnay Chardonnay Hills Sauvignon citrus fragrances and where some winemakers 2019 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 a refreshing line of have pushed the limit Aromatic mix of A big commercial style. Sweet gooseberry crisp acid with a musky too far,” noted one judge. grapefruit and peaches Good intensity of peach nose with a crisp green minerally flavour. $30 “The best wines had fruit with nice intensity of blossom and lime candy fruit flavour profile Forbidden Cellar as king with oak lifting peach flavours and hint characters. $17.50 and showing some Murray Darling the wine rather than of floral sweetness. pungency. $22 Semillon Sauvignon dominating.” $14.95 Clyde Park Estate Blanc 2019 HHH Geelong Chardonnay Mary Street Vintners A pungent lift of Yarran Riverina 2018 HHH St Amand Adelaide gooseberry aromas with Chardonnay An older style; complex Hills Sauvignon bright tropical derived 2018 HHHH toasty oak/sweet fruit Blanc 2019 HHH flavours. $15 Nose has toasty peach nose and palate with a Herbaceous aromas Cassegrain White complexity with nutty creamy finish. $45 with a gooseberry lift Label Central notes and an oak and great line of zingy Ranges Verdelho driven palate showing ROSÉ tropical flavours. $20 2019 HHH refreshing stonefruit and Pleasant herb and melon flavours. $15 6 TASTED OTHER WHITE lime nose with a crisp 4 AWARDED BLENDS & mineral-like palate and Monkey Place Creek VARIETALS slight candied flavours. Hunter Chardonnay Generally a consistent $23.95 2018 HHHH group of drier styles. “It 11 TASTED Twin Bridges Hunter An attractive oak driven would have been nice 6 AWARDED Valley Semillon style showing some to see some savoury 2017 HHH citrus/lemon fruit layered texture to add to the Mixed results with top Honeyed stewed fruit with toasty elements mix,” said one judge. marks going to a pinot fragrances and rounded and with a mineral grigio and a fiano. Others caramel flavours with a finish. $20 offered good quaffing. toasty finish. $25 Singlefile Wines Run Beresford Classic Free Great Southern McLaren Vale Pinot Grigio Chardonnay 2019 HHHH 2018 HHHH A delicate bouquet of A classy wine with lifted fresh pears with a floral candied fruit fragrances edge. Nicely textured with toasty cashew palate has attractive nuances and powerful citrus flavours and crisp peach/vanilla flavour finish. $25 profile. $25 JUDGES - DAY 1 Tom Darmody Brooke Blair Assistant winemaker at Winemaker for Peter Lehmann Dave Matthews Taylors Wines. Has a Wines in the Barossa Valley. 18 Formerly Winemaker Bachelor of Viticulture & years in the wine industry; 11 at Rosemount and Oenology from the University years in Canada. Has vintaged Boar’s Rock and of Adelaide. Previously in Spain, Chile, Canada & Group Winemaker for a cellar door assistant at Australia. Previously worked Treasury Wine Estates. Elderton Wines and Wolf at Hollick Wines, Berri Estates Vintages in Tuscany and Blass. Previously a product & Jackson-Triggs (Canada). California. Judged in expert at Dan Murphys. Judged at the Marananga Australia and overseas. Committee member of Clare (Barossa) wine show and Currently with Francois Valley wine show. Okanagan show (Canada). Freres group of cooperages. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 109

NEW RELEASES OTHER RED Inner City Uleybury Wines VBBAEULSYUTSE VARIETALS & Winemakers New Single Vineyard BLENDS England Tempranillo Adelaide Merlot 2018 HHH 2016 HHHH 15 TASTED A pretty blue fruit and Toasty raisined 10 AWARDED violet bouquet that is characters on the nose Another mixed result echoed on the elegant with a rich tarry/licorice with some high scores palate. 5+ $28 flavour profile. Ready for but also some misses. drinking now! $19.50 “Some wines here were Twin Bridges dominated by oak which Hilltops Sangiovese GRENACHE & is ridiculous in varietal 2018 HHH BLENDS driven styles,” aid one Oak dominated nose judge. “Where fruit and sour cherry palate 3 TASTED weight is restrained you with obvious tannins – don’t need the oak level.” needs food! $30 2 AWARDED Saint & Scholar Gargoyle Wines Cassegrain Edition Glenholme One quality blend and a Adelaide Hills Rosé Adelaide Hills Noir Hilltops Vineyards Blesings straight varietal here. 2019 HHHH Langhorne Creek Sangiovese Garden Southern Lifted strawberry and Tempranillo Touriga 2018 HHHH Flinders Ranges Cat Amongst cream bouquet and 2018 HHHHH Blackcurrant/cherry Nebbiolo 2017 HHH The Pigeons creamy palate with Savoury nose – meaty aromas with a spicy Rich balanced Barossa Grenache upfront raspberry and and gamey and edge and lovely complexity of red Shiraz Mataro strawberry flavours and underscored with minty mouthful of dark fruit cherries and black 2018 HHHH1/2 refreshing acidity. $25 cherry fruit. Vibrant flavours with fine currants with a chocolaty “A pretty, youthful crowd palate with great fruit tannins and a toasty thread. $25 pleaser,” according weight and flavours like end. $32 to one judge. It’s a Clare's Secret Clare Sarsaparilla with silky Andrew Peace Wines Gilbert + Gilbert refreshing lifted and Valley Rosé smooth tannins. $28.99 Australia Felix Eden Valley Mataro lingering amalgam of 2019 HHH Swan Hill Victoria Grenache Shiraz blue fruits, violets, Subtle strawberry Sagrantino 2015 HHH chocolate and spices. aromas with green 2017 HHHH Stewed plum nose with $20 notes and simple red Quite a bold fruit driven slight toffee edge and currant flavoured palate. wine with sour cherry medium weight berry/ Cat Amongst The $18 like fragrances with cherry palate. $60 Pigeons Fat Cat subtle oak and big tannic Barossa Grenache De Bortoli Rose King cherry palate. Good food Bellarine Estate 2018 HHH Valley Sangiovese wine. $45 Paul’s Geelong Petit Bright strawberry Rosé 2019 HHH Cassegrain Edition Syrah 2018 HHH and cream-like fruit Delicate perfumed berry Noir de Solere New Lifted fruit driven characters with hints bouquet and bright clean England Hilltops aromatics and lovely of spice and an herbal palate with racy acidity. Nebbiolo Barbera clarity of varietal fruit on edge. $29 $18 Sangiovese the youthful palate. $40 2018 HHH1/2 PINOT NOIR & Tamburlaine Savoury and earthy MERLOT & BLENDS Organic on the nose with an BLENDS Wines On The uncomplicated sweet 5 TASTED cherry/berry fruit driven 5 TASTED 2 AWARDED palate. $30 Gralyn Estate 2 AWARDED Margaret River VBBAEULSYUTSE Malbec A couple of good Two wines showing good 2018 HHH1/2 examples showing vineyard fruit with little Grapevine Central Vibrant purple wine concentrated fruit and winemaking artefact to Ranges Rosé with pungent plum/ fruit tannins. confuse the issue. 2019 HHH meaty aromas and soft Lifted candied blackcurrant palate with Tamburlaine Organic Clyde Park Estate strawberry nose with a sweet finish. $60 Wines On The Geelong Pinot Noir hints of Turkish Delight Grapevine Orange 2018 HHHH on a well balanced Merlot 2018 HHHH A riper oaky style with palate. $20 Earthy spicy blackberry a nice play between aromas lift off the nose the sweet and the and carry through sour fruit characters to the palate giving nicely wrapped in firm lovely flavour intensity tannins. $45 balanced by oak. $20 110 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Giesen Organic Yarran Hilltops Bad to the Bone Karland Estate Equi Byrne Vineyards Marlborough Pinot Bendigo Cabernet South Australia Animo Adelaide Hills Blend Boss Red Noir 2015 HHH Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Assemblage SA Oak dominated style 2018 HHHH 2018 HHH 2015 HHH Shiraz Merlot with great ruby red A lively fuller style with Gamey/meaty nose with Mulberries and licorice 2018 HHH colour, grippy tannins dense blackcurrant a menthol lift and an on the nose. Soft in the A crowd pleaser with and some beefy aromas and flavours, herbal/berry filled palate. mouth with figgy/tarry concentrated mix of secondary characters. some great chewy $14.95 flavours. $34 sweet cherry cola fruit $39.99 tannins and a graphite- and mocha oak. $20 like finish. $15 Elk Run South Twin Bridges CABERNET Andrew Peace Australia Cabernet Hilltops Cabernet Cassegrain Central SAUVIGNON & Wines Australia Sauvignon Sauvignon Ranges Syrah Pinot BLENDS Felix Barrel Reserve 2018 HHH 2015 HHH 2018 HHH Wrattonbully A cassis fruit bouquet Aromas of cherries, Nice, easy drinking, 18 TASTED Cabernet Shiraz with an herbal edge and soy and leather with commercial style with 14 AWARDED 2017 HHHH a chewy dark fruit palate. a chewy green edged lifted fruit and soft Pretty minty blackcurrant $14.95 currant-like palate. $35 tannins. $32 A consistent group of nose and very balanced wines. “These are well black fruit/choc mint Mosaic Muse South SHIRAZ Sieber Barossa made with few faults palate with assertive Australia Cabernet BLENDS Shiraz Mataro however it would be nice tannins. Needs time. Sauvignon 2017 HHH to see more black and 2018 HHH 7 TASTED Plum and soy-like blue fruits rather than 3-5 $28 Confectionery cherry 5 AWARDED aromas with a soft red and with cabernet Lou Miranda Estate style with a savoury plum fruit palate it is nice to see a touch Leone Barossa Valley character and “playful” A solid if not spectacular showing hints of charry of varietal herbaceous Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. $17.50 group of good drinking, oak. $20 overtones,” said one 2016 HHHH “harmoniously balanced”, judge. Glace fruit-like aromas James Busby wines. Sieber Barossa with a menthol edge. Margaret River Shiraz Grenache Attractive soft oaky/ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 HHH chocolaty palate with 2017 HHH Lifted candied fruit black fruits in balance. Savoury nose with a aromas and jubey fruit Menthol finish. $28 leathery note and a very palate with a beefy/ tannic palate with hints savoury element. $20 of cassis fruit. 5+ SHIRAZ 2018 Forbidden Cellar Murray Darling 17 TASTED Cabernet Shiraz 12 AWARDED 2017 HHH Toasty savoury red Some excellent results cherry aromas with here with different more of the same on the styles on display. One big tannic palate. $15 style showcased varietal characteristics whilst the Saracen Estates other styles focussed on Margaret River big, ripe concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon tannic flavours. 2016 HHH A simple style of cassis and black cherry fruit with sweet cedary oak to balance. $38 Kirrihill Wines Karland Estate Jb wines BLK 118 Kanoetree Wines Regional Selection Fallgray Estate Single Vineyard Haeusler Crossing Series Clare Valley South Australia Barossa Valley Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Shiraz Shiraz Cabernet 2018 HHHH1/2 2018 HHH1/2 2015 HHH 2017 HHH Nose is still closed but A pleasant, lighter, A developed tarry/ Brambles and there is nice fruit lurking straightforward sweet style with hints blackcurrants on the underneath. Beautiful style with lifted juicy of cherries and quince nose and a meaty/cassis mouth-filling dark juicy blackcurrant fruit paste. $25 fruit palate. Fine tannins. fruit flavours with an characters showing a $21.70 abundance of drying gamey edge. $7.50 tannins. $19 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 111

NEW RELEASES Mosaic Muse South Clyde Park Estate Australia Shiraz Geelong Shiraz 2018 HHHH 2018 HHH An oak driven wine Dark purple wine with a with Vegemite/soy-like minty cherry nose and nose that open up to fresh plum flavours with blackberries. Nicely a beefy edge. $45 ‘polished’, well made black fruit filled palate. SHIRAZ 2017 & $17.50 OLDER Tamburlaine Organic 25 TASTED Wines On The 14 AWARDED Grapevine Orange Very mixed results Shiraz 2018 HHHH here! The 2017 vintage Dark savoury plum fruit generally produced nose and palate with leaner elegant wines as the smart savoury oak shown here. “However working well with the fruit the sweet fruit from the and masses of tannins. Barossa is seductive,” Time! 5+ $20 said one judge. “If you don’t have as much fruit Kirrihill Wines Andevine Reserve don’t add as much oak.” Shingleback D Block Regional Selection Hilltops Shiraz Reserve McLaren Series Clare Valley 2018 HHHH Gilbert + Gilbert Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2018 HHHHH Brambly bouquet with Barossa Shiraz 2015 HHHHH Nose is a fresh lifted a dash of vanilla. Palate 2017 HHHHH Subtle dark fruit richness pot-pourri of summer has lifted dark plum fruit, Nose shows intense to the nose and a fruits and rose-petals. toasty oak and loads of dark briary fruit and beautifully ageing palate Lovely weight and tannins. Needs time. $40 black olives with subtle that is still quite fresh with balance to the pretty oak backing and a big lovely varietal fruit flavours perfumed fruit palate Black O.N.Y.X South chocolate cookie of a still obvious and showing with its smart oak and Australia Shiraz palate that has great a savoury thread. Elegant! fine tannins. $19 2018 HHH1/2 length and structure Antiquities South Sweet red fruit with dense tannins. 5+ $55 Australia Shiraz expression with a slight Sieber Ernest 2018 HHHH1/2 herbal edge, toasty oak 5+ $60 Barossa Shiraz Smells like plums and and chewy tannins that 2017 HHHH1/2 stewed rhubarb with will soften with age. A rich, round and a minty menthol lift. $17.50 generous deep crimson The tight well-focussed wine. Oaky nose with palate has peppery Eden Hall Springton Byrne Vineyards slight peppery note and plum flavours and Eden Valley Shiraz Devlin's Mount good palate sweetness “approachable” tannins. 2018 HHHH Double Pass SA with spicy berry fruit and “Wow!” $17.50 An unusual style - “Big, Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 fine tannin structure. Gumpara Wines unctuous and quite A huge blockbuster of Victor's Old Vine delicious,” according a wine with perfumed 3-5 $25 Barossa Valley to one judge. “Smells blue fruits on the nose Shiraz of blue fruits; tastes of and sweet chocolaty 2018 HHHH1/2 Muscat grapes!” $25 flavours. $20 Inky purple wine with confectionery fruit Haselgrove Wines aromas and a huge Il Padrone McLaren complex figgy/toasty Vale Shiraz palate. “A ripper of 2018 HHH1/2 a wine made in the Another blockbuster old fashioned style,” with “mountains of enthused one judge. $32 tannins.” “Approach with caution for the next 5 years!” 5+ $45 Karland Estate Fallgray Estate South Australia Shiraz 2018 HHH A fresh, clean and bright fruit driven style with a minimal, controlled, use of oak. $7.50 112 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting 3 Rings Barossa Eisenstone Magic A Limited SWEET WHITE Valley Shiraz Greenock Barossa Reserve Barossa 2016 HHHH1/2 Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz 1 TASTED Very attractive, fresh, 2017 HHHH 2017 HHH 1 AWARDED shiraz with subtle dark Delightful pure shiraz Pure shiraz fruit here berry and plum aromas fruit evident on both the with subtle use of spicy One lovely example and some dusty oak. nose and palate with oak and fine tannin here at a great value for The plush well-structured a fine grained tannin structure. $90 money price. palate has lovely structure and lingering Argyle Forest blackberry flavours with oak finish. 5+ $75 Estate Betelgeuse Barley Stacks Wines drying tannins. 5+ Heathcote Shiraz Viogscato The $16 Beresford Estate 2013 HHH Peninsulas Viognier McLaren Vale Shiraz Nicely structured wine 2019 HHH Beresford Bell Tower 2016 HHH1/2 with some dense Attractive floral McLaren Vale Shiraz Blue fruit aromas with varietal fruit and good characters to the 2017 HHHH a dash of pepper. age complexity. $38 confectionery citrusy A youthful juicy Lovely length of dark nose with a lovely sweet example with peppery fruit flavours with fruit palate. $16.95 plum fruit characters, mouth-coating tannins. some spiciness and an attractive slatey/mineral 3-5 $50 thread. 5+ $20 Karland Estate VBBAEULSYUTSE Padthaway Reillys Barking Mad Shiraz 2017 HHH Eisenstone Clare Valley Shiraz Light peppery plum Marananga Barossa Valley Shiraz 2017 HHHH bouquet and attractive STAR RATINGS  Complex compost- palate sweetness with 2017 HHHH1/2 like nose and a rich, good depth of fruit. Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Intense plum and berry excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. fruit on the nose with aromatic, varietal fruit $13.50 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry palate. Great acid professionals and are compared in peer a lovely perfumed lift. balance; good length Glenholme classes by three judges. Excellent palate – it’s Vineyards Blesings CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, rich and bold and quite of tannins. 5+ Garden Southern a major mail-order business. $20 Flinders Ranges CD Cellar door price. old fashioned in style Shiraz 2017 HHH CDO Cellar door only. with pure shiraz fruit A lean stalky style of SO Sold out. characters. 5+ $75 Gumpara Wines shiraz with simple dark $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Mader Reserve plum fruit and finely  Contact information pg 119 -120. Barossa Valley grained tannins. Shiraz 2017 HHHH RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). A light crimson, peppery, 3-5 $22 BEST VALUE for $20 & under style with cherries and and NZ $25 & under. plums on the nose and a For a complete list of what we tasted pure varietal fruit palate please refer to www.winestate.com.au with good tannins. 3-5 $60 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 113

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Trentham Estate The Hoggies Estate Hoggies Estate Yealands Marlborough Family Murray Darling Coonawarra Coonawarra Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Prosecco NV Sparkling Chardonnay Chardonnay 2018 A lovely nose smelling of cut A pretty fruity nose – quite Pinot Noir NV Delicate and tight style with grass, asparagus and green tropical with a crisp and zippy An attractive creamy nutty style elegant varietal fruit and light peas with a zesty herbaceous fresh palate. $18 with grilled peach and honeyed use of oak. $14.99 and passionfruit palate elements. $14.99 showing a good line of crisp Trentham Estate Pty Ltd acidity. $17.99 Phone: 03 5024 8888 Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Email: [email protected] Phone: 0418 854 102 Phone: 0418 854 102 Yealands Estate Wines Ltd NZ Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 9 920 2880 Web: www.hoggieswine.com Web: www.hoggieswine.com Email: Michael.Wentworth@ Yealands.co.nz Web: www.yealands.co.nz BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND $U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. 114 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Tamburlaine Organic St. Erth Geelong Victoria Gapsted Wines Tobacco Uleybury Wines Single Wines On The Grapevine Pinot Noir 2018 Road King Valley Pinot Vineyard Adelaide Merlot Central Ranges Rosé 2019 “Seriously stylish wine for the Noir 2018 2016 Lifted candied strawberry nose price,” enthused one judge. An earthy character to Toasty raisined characters with hints of Turkish Delight on Lovely concentration of spicy the nose and sustained on the nose with a rich tarry/ a well balanced palate. $20 red berries, cherries and olives concentration of bright wild licorice flavour profile. Ready with a little of everything nicely strawberry flavours on the for drinking now! $19.50 Tamburlaine Organic Wines knitted together. $20 slippery smooth palate. $16 Phone: 02 4998 4200 Uleybury Wines Email: [email protected] C&J Wines Gapsted Wines Phone: 08 8280 7335 Web: www.tamburlaine.com.au Phone: 0408 474 833 Phone: 03 5751 9100 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.uleybury.com Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 115

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 The Musician by Majella Sanguine Estate Kindred Berton Vineyards Metal Karland Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Heathcote Shiraz 2017 Label Black South Eastern Padthaway Shiraz 2017 Sauvignon Shiraz 2016 A pretty wine with a big Australia Shiraz 2018 Light peppery plum bouquet Very attractive minty cassis perfumed oak nose and Raspberry jam nose with and attractive palate nose with a subtlety of oak dense mix of fleshy plum and some brambles underneath. sweetness with good depth underneath. Beautifully oak flavours. $15 Smooth light-weight palate. of fruit. $13.50 structured sweet and spicy Good tannins. $12 dark berry palate with a hint of oak. “Very yummy!” $18 Sanguine Estate Berton Vineyards Karland Estate Phone: 0417 831 076 Phone: 02 6968 1600 Phone: 0403 537 867 Majella Wines Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8736 3055 Web: www.sanguinewines.com.au Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Web: www.karlandestate.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.majellawines.com.au the wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 164 | September/October 2019 Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care is Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but Managing Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published six times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2019 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.au Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any Ashlea Lowke E-mail: [email protected] 116 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three judges taste expertise and often a marketing/retail the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, masters of wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered If we are judging a region, for example, is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce we will have a winemaker judge from above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, that region because that person knows is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine generally someone with broad and not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind mature experience. wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 95 - 96 Very Good 18 - 18.4 93 - 94 HHHH Silver 91 - 92 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 89 - 90 Good HHH Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. 118 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

contact details NEW RELEASES Stage Door Wine Co. SHIRAZ, SYRAH & BLENDS Sanguine Estate Phone: 0400 991 968 Phone: 0417 831 076 Andevine Wines Email: graeme@stagedoorwineco. Aus Provenance Email: [email protected] Phone: 0427 948 880 com.au Phone: 0402 053 050 www.sanguinewines.com.au Email: andrew@andevinewines. Web: www.stagedoorwineco.com.au Email: [email protected] com.au Schubert Estate Web: www.andevinewines.com.au Yealands Estate Wines Ltd NZ Blue Pyrenees Estate Phone: 08 8431 1457 Phone: +64 9 920 2880 Phone: 03 5465 1111 Email: maxgu@schubertestatewine. Cassegrain Wines Pty Ltd Email: michael.wentworth@yealands. Email: reception@bluepyrenees. com Phone: 02 6582 8347 co.nz com.au Web: www.schubertestate.com.au Email: marketing@cassegrainwines. Web: www.yealands.co.nz Web: www.bluepyrenees.com.au com.au She-Oak Hill Web: www.cassegrainwines.com.au NZ RECENT RELEASES Cellarmaster Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9882 3715 Phone: 08 8561 2235 Email: [email protected] Eden Hall Wines Batch Winery Partnership Ltd T/As Email: wineshows@dorrienestate. Web: www.sheoakhill.com.au Phone: 0400 991 968 Thomas Estate Vineyard com.au Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 09 372 3223 Web: www.cellarmasters.com.au Silver Spoon Estate Web: www.edenhall.com.au Email: [email protected] Phone: 0412 868 236 Fox Creek Wines Email: vineyard@silverspoonestate. Eisenstone Wines Rock Ferry Wines NZ Phone: 08 8557 0000 com.au Phone: 0417 827 851 Phone: +64 3 579 6430 Email: [email protected] Web: www.silverspoonestate.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.foxcreekwines.com Web: www.eisenstonewines. Web: www.rockferyywines.com Simon Tolley Pty Ltd withwine.com Gomersal Wines Phone: 08 8389 9407 Phone: 08 8563 3611 Email: [email protected] Gargoyle Wines OTAGO (NEW ZEALAND) Email: [email protected] Web: www.simontolley.com.au Phone: +61 0447 814 292 Web: www.gomersalwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Domain Road Vineyard NZ Taylors Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.gargoylewines.com Phone: 021 224 7661 Grandeur Wellington Phone: 08 8849 1115 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8383 0866 Email: [email protected] Gilbert Family Wines Web: www.domainroad.co.nz Email: [email protected] Web: www.taylorswines.com.au Phone: 0439 687 152 Web: www.grandeurwellington.com. Email: [email protected] Three Miners Vineyards au Tenafeate Creek Wines Web: www.gilbertfamilywines.com.au Phone: +64 3 449 2343 Phone: 08 8280 7715 Email: [email protected] Hare’s Chase Email: enquiries@ Kanoetree Wines Web: www.threeminers.com Phone: 08 8277 3506 tenafeatecreekwines.com Phone: 0417 370 208 Email: [email protected] Web: www.tenafeatecreekwines.com Email: [email protected] Wooing Tree Vineyard NZ Web: www.hareschase.com.au Web: www.kanoetree.com.au Phone: +64 3 445 4142 The Sharp Group Email: [email protected] Haselgrove Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 03 5248 6866 Karland Estate Web: www.wooingtree.co.nz Phone: 08 8323 8706 Email: [email protected] Phone: 0403 537 867 Email: [email protected] Web: www.thesharpgroup.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.haselgrove.com.au Web: www.karlandestate.com.au Thorn-Clarke Wines Hemera Estate Phone: 08 8564 3036 Kirrihill Wines Pty Ltd LIMESTONE COAST Phone: 08 8524 4033 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8842 1233 Email: [email protected] Web: www.thornclarkewines.com Email: [email protected] Herbert Vineyard Web: www.hemeraestate.com.au Web: www.kirrihillwines.com.au Phone: 08 8725 2761 BEST BUYS Email: [email protected] Mollydooker Wines Pemberley Web: www.herbertvineyard.com.au Phone: 08 8323 6500 Berton Vineyards Phone: 0427 761 373 Email: [email protected] Phone: 02 6968 1600 Email: [email protected] Majella Wines Web: www.mollydookerwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.pemberleyofpemberton. Phone: 08 8736 3055 Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au com Email: [email protected] Momentum Wines Web: www.majellawines.com.au Phone: 0438 314 040 C&J Wines Pure Wine Co. Email: sandra@ Phone: 0408 474 833 Phone: 08 8339 7883 Westmere Wines momentumfoodandwine.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 0427 647 429 Web: www.momentumfoodandwine. Web: www.purewine.co Email: [email protected] com.au Gapsted Wines Web: www.westmerewines.com Phone: 03 5751 9100 Shingleback Wine Oakover Wines Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8323 9199 Phone: 08 9374 8000 Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au Email: tastingroom@shingleback. Email: [email protected] com.au Web: www.oakoverwines.com.au Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Web: www.shingleback.com.au Phone: 0418 854 102 Purple Hands Wines Email: [email protected] Sieber Wines Phone: 0401 988 185 Web: www.hoggieswine.com Phone: 08 8562 8038 Email: mark@purplehandswines. Email: [email protected] com.au Karland Estate Web: www.sieberwines.com Web: www.purplehandswines.com.au Phone: 0403 537 867 Email: [email protected] Reillys Wines Web: www.karlandestate.com.au Phone: 08 8358 0480 Email: [email protected] Web: www.reillyswines.com.au September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 119

contact details Majella Wines Clyde Park Vineyard Phone: 08 8736 3055 Phone: 03 5281 7274 Follow us and keep up to Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] date with all our latest Web: www.majellawines.com.au Web: www.clydepark.com.au wine info, tastings and Sanguine Estate Crittenden Estate events on facebook, Phone: 0417 831 076 Phone: 03 5981 8322 twitter and instagram. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.sanguinewines.com.au Web: www.crittendenwines.com.au Connect on social with Winestate Tamburlaine Organic Wines Howard Park Wines (see Burch Family) Phone: 02 4998 4200 Phone: 08 9336 9600 www.facebook.com/Winestate- Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Magazine Web: www.tamburlaine.com.au Web: www.howardparkwines.com.au twitter.com/winestateed Trentham Estate Pty Ltd La Villa Wines www.instagram.com/winestate/ Phone: 03 5024 8888 Phone: 0418 642 722 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] www.winestate.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Web: www.lavillawines.com.au Uleybury Wines Lawson’s Dry Hills NZ Phone: 08 8280 7335 Phone: +64 3 578 7674 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.uleybury.com Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz Yealands Estate Wines Ltd NZ Portsea Estate Phone: +64 9 920 2880 Phone: 03 5984 3774 Email: Michael.Wentworth@ Email: [email protected] Yealands.co.nz Web: www.portseaestate.com Web: www.yealands.co.nz SPARKLING NORTH EAST VICTORIA All Saints Estate Pty Ltd 1847 Wines (SA) Pty Ltd Phone: 02 6035 2217 Phone: +61 8 8524 0207 Email: marketing@allsaintswine. Email: [email protected] com.au Web: www.1847wines.com Web: www.allsaintswine.com.au Bouvet Ladubay Gapsted Wines Phone: +33 2 41 838 394 Phone: 03 5751 9100 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.bouvet-ladubay.fr Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au Centennial Vineyards Morrisons of Glenrowan Phone: 02 4861 8700 Phone: 03 5766 2734 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.centennial.net.au Web: www.morrisonswinery.com.au Fine Wine Wholesalers Serengale Vineyard Phone: 08 9314 7133 Phone: 03 5727 0558 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.fww.com.au Web: www.serengalebeechworth. com.au Gapsted Wines Phone: 03 5751 9100 Warner Vineyard Email: [email protected] Phone: 03 5728 2134 Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.warnervineyard.com.au Pemberley Phone: 0427 761 373 PINOT NOIR Email: [email protected] Web: www.pemberleyofpemberton. Allan Scott Family Winemakers NZ com Phone: +64 3 572 9054 Email: [email protected] The Sharp Group Web: www.allanscott.com Phone: 03 5248 6866 Email: [email protected] C&J Wines Web: www.thesharpgroup.com.au Phone: 0408 474 833 Email: [email protected] Zonte’s Footstep Pty Ltd Phone: 08 7286 3088 Email: [email protected] Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au 120 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

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aftertaste ELISABETH KING BREAKING THE DA VINCI WINE CODE I VISITED Milan three times in 2015. Once the vineyard to two of his servants in his will. Illustration: Emilio Giannelli to attend Expo 2015 and twice to report Leonardo fled Milan following an invasion on fashion shows and fragrance launches. acquired its first bottling line. By 1990, There was a lot of free time between by the French in 1499 and the vines were appointments and by the end of the third left to grow largely untended until World the enterprise acquired the leading wine trip I had re-visited the city’s main attractions War II when the vineyard and adjacent from the Duomo to the Castello. Fortunately, church were damaged by Allied bombing. cooperative in Montalcino, famed for that year also saw the opening of a restored Thankfully, in the 1920s the then-owners of vineyard that once belonged to Leonardo the property asked Luca Beltrami, a noted Brunello. Today the Cantine Leonardo da da Vinci. A gift to the Renaissance genius Leonardo expert, to research the vineyard from Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan, as from Renaissance-era documents and he Vinci has 200 winegrowers in both regions part payment for painting the masterpiece took photos of the vines which were still - The Last Supper. growing up the wooden pergolas thought and produces four million bottles a year to have been designed by Leonardo. The 2019 marks the 500th anniversary of information proved invaluable in the early which are exported to 47 countries. Leonardo’s death and his interest in wine noughties when the Portaluppi family, which is being celebrated as never before. His currently owns the vineyard and adjacent When you have such a bankable name visionary talents in art and science, including villa, approached Attilio Scienza, an expert astronomy, cartography, engineering, on the DNA of wines, geneticist Serena as Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, it’s a duty geology and botany, are well-known and Imazio and oenologist Luca Maroni, who museums in Rome, Florence and Venice are identified the malvasia candia aromatica to honour your legendary “benefactor”. dedicated to his interests in these subjects. and replanted the vineyard as it was in But his expertise in wine making has taken Leonardo’s time. The cooperative has invested in both the a back seat to his other accomplishments. A fact that doesn’t come as much of a The discovery of a extended and new museums in Vinci to surprise as he was born in Tuscany and wine was a lot safer to drink than water great wine is better mark the 500th anniversary of Leonardo’s in the 15th century. So to glorify its most famous native son further, the town of Vinci for mankind than the passing. The Museo Ideale Leonardo da opened the Renaissance of Wine Museum and extended the Museo Ideale Leonardo discovery of a new star. Vinci was Italy’s first wine museum and da Vinci in May. Wine hasn’t been produced in commercial was opened in 1866 by Garibaldi. The But let’s go back to Milan to explore quantities yet, but you can sip on an Leonardo’s lifelong dedication to the aperitivo in the nearby bar. Better yet, renovated space showcases Leonardo’s grape. He spent 20 years there and enjoy a stay in the Atellani Apartments, a the city is not only home to The Last collection of six self-catering flats in the family tree dating back 20 generations and Supper, but also the Rondanini Madonna, historic Casa degli Atellani. The Sforza suite Michelangelo’s final sculpture. La Vigna di overlooks the vineyard. documents about his mother, Caterina, are Leonardo (Leonardo’s vineyard) is close to the monastery of the Santa Maria delle Leonardo once wrote: “The discovery on display for the first time. The illegitimate Grazie church which houses The Last of a great wine is better for mankind than Supper, so the great man didn’t have far the discovery of a new star”. Apart from son of local notary Piero da Vinci, little to go for a spot of relaxation after a hard the Milan vineyard, he owned several day with the brushes. others in central and northern Italy where is known about Leonardo’s maternal he experimented with all aspects of Located in the lush gardens of the Casa winemaking, from cultivating different forebears. degli Atellani, a restored 16th century varietals to making improvements to grape residence, the vineyard was originally presses and distilling brandy. A pioneering The new Renaissance of Wine at the planted with the white grape variety - attitude that inspired the birth of Cantine malvasia candia aromatica - which is still Leonardo da Vinci. Villa da Vinci is a permanent exhibition of grown in Piacenza in Lombardy. Leonardo came from a long line of winemakers but In a bid to distance themselves from the Leonardo’s links and studies on agriculture owning the vineyard had another purpose. traditional Italian crop-sharing system, 30 He hoped that ownership of the 60m-by- local growers created the cooperative in and wine making. Along with the bronze 175m plot could fast-track his application the town of Vinci in 1961. The first harvest for Milanese citizenship. It became a prized arrived in 1965 and by 1971, the coop reliefs and etchings of some of Leonardo’s possession, though, and he bequeathed most famous works, there are interactive displays in English of artists who have been inspired by Leonardo and wine from the Baroque painter Guido Reni to Andy Warhol. The major wine ranges of Cantine Leonardo da Vinci have been re-branded in new collections for the anniversary year, including Vitruvian Man and 1502 Vinci in Romagna. Leonardo was also ahead of his time on the topic of drinking responsibly. In his Codex Atlanticus, he observed: “Wine is measured, little and often. Not outside of a meal, nor on an empty stomach”. Good advice when you’re driving through Italy paying homage to his wine making passion. next issue: Some truly fantastic tastings to be had this issue from the the China Southern Airlines Cabernet & Bordeaux Challenge IX to our annual Emerging & Alternative Varietals Awards (EVA’s). Plus, all the lovely whites you can dream of – sauvignon blanc, riesling, pinot gris/grigio and semillon. Also, Clare Valley, KI and Hawkes Bay (NZ). 122 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

MEMBER EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2019 Winestate Wine of the Year 2019 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 27 September 2019 (6 - 8.30pm) Tickets: [email protected] NOVEMBER 2019 HONG KONG - Winestate Wines of Australia HK Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 7-9 November 2019 Details at: www.hktdc.com HONG KONG - Winestate Corporate Tasting Event November 7-9 2019 More details mid-2019 Email: [email protected] Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (Australia) Adelaide Convention Centre Date to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only and VIP Guests) Invitations sent September 2019 Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (New Zealand) Date and venue to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only & VIP Guests) Invitations sent September 2019 JOIN US TODAY! By becoming a Winestate Member you will receive complimentary tickets to our events!

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