Winestate Magazine September October 2019

wine investment & collecting March and April auction were heavily for 1999 Bonnes-Mares from Robert – via retail cellar offers – continue to stocked with some of the most exquisite Groffier and $759 and $644 paid for the provide wonderful buying opportunities. wines from Burgundy. The wines of 1993 and 1996 Chambolle-Musigny Les If you’d like to receive these offers, sign Domaine Armand Rousseau are always Amoureuses respectively from the same up at www.mwwines.com.au/shop or in high demand and we saw some producer. give us a call. great examples: a magnum of 1997 Chambertin was keenly sought after We expect our auctions to continue to LANGTON’S and sold for $5,405, almost twice the offer up some exceptional catalogues (Auction Report, February – April 2019 estimate, a bottle of the magnificent 2010 for the remainder of 2019 that will entice by Adrian Read) Chambertin sold for $3,450 and the 2006 and excite our buyers. We look forward 2019 has seen some extraordinary Ruchottes-Chambertin had a number of to reporting on the results of these successes for vendors at Langton’s. bidders pushing the final hammer price in Winestate’s next edition. If you’re Bidders, of course, have also been up to $621. Other highlights were a bottle interested in buying or selling with us, rewarded. As Australia’s premier online of 2008 Domaine de la Romanee Conti contact any of our team on (03) 9419 auction house for fine wine, an eye- Richebourg selling for $3,105, a bottle 6990. Please note that all prices above watering selection of rare and desirable of 1999 La Tache which attracted a final include 15 per cent buyer’s premium. bottles are frequently on offer. In April hammer price of $7,820 and an ullaged alone, local and international wines saw bottle of 1997 Romanee Conti vineyard, There was also plenty of activity in the extraordinary figures. A 6L Imperial bottle which had some fervent late bidding that fine wine retail division, with a series of of 2005 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild saw its final price reach $23,057. winemaker master classes with Giant reached a lofty $13,106. Steps and Coriole offering the attendees Among other highlights were the some wonderful insights into the making The hot demand for museum vintages of $1,265 paid for a bottle of 2007 Domaine of their current release offerings. Our Australian classics continues unabated. Leroy Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Boudots, free tastings continue to offer fantastic A bottle of 1952 Hardy’s Tintara St. $966 reached for several bottles of new releases mixed with back vintage Thomas was sold for $1,165. Elsewhere, 1996 Rene Engel Clos Vougeot, $379 offerings and an offering of old and rare a 1957 Wynns Coonawarra Estate gems from Burgundy, Barolo and Rhone SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 51

wine investment & collecting Cabernet went for $990. Penfolds, wines, in particular shiraz and riesling, Well, Penfolds Bin 389 took on the predictably, saw great results, with a based on strong 19th century settlement challenge more than 50 years ago (along bottle of 1965 Grange reaching $1,730, and planting legacy.” with Yalumba The Signature) and made compared to its last recorded result of the great cabernet shiraz blend for all to $1,154. Langton’s Head of Auction Tamara enjoy. This was serious business. A Baby Grischy noted the benefits of a live auction Grange? To this day, the barrels that The Barossa Wine Auction, sponsored atmosphere: “What an extraordinary carry the new Grange are exclusively by Langton’s, is one of the foremost result. Barossa as a region again showed reserved (passed down) for 2nd use by events on the Australian wine calendar. its strength in the secondary market Bin 389. That’s a serious burden and A biannual event, the 2019 auction was to capture collectors’ interest and compliment. The expectation is that met with unprecedented interest. Over bidding activity from all around the every Bin 389 that Penfolds makes is 350 wine collectors gathered at Lambert world, delivering some spectacular price touched by greatness. Estate to bid on 35 lots, including rarities, results. The great vibe in the room added verticals, museum pieces and once-in- to the excitement of the live auction which My first ‘moving’ Bin 389 experience a-lifetime experiences. The total sales we so rarely do now.” was with Roddy, my Irish father, in for the event topped $243,901, with an Melbourne. Always a well-resourced average lot price of $6,775—a record All prices include buyer’s premium. bargain hunter, his golf crew picked up for the Barossa Wine Auction, which was a pallet of 1996 Bin 389 at under $20 first held in 1965. On top of this, $12,000 STERLING WINE AUCTIONS a bottle and put it to storage for future of proceeds have been donated to the (Classic 1996 – Baby Grange Penfolds speculation. My first experience with McGrath Foundation, with the event also Bin 389, Report by Lynton Barber) the young 1996 Bin 389 was more a contributing to various local Barossa The classic 1996 Penfolds Bin 389 relief than a revelation. So much hype charities and community projects. marks a very important chapter in the and excitement surrounded this wine. Australian wine story. An amazing wine, Needless to say, it didn’t disappoint – Perhaps the most spectacular result of huge scores, rave reviews and radical and that’s been the pattern now for 20 the day was the World Record maker. A discounting on release. Those were years. 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A sold for $21,552, the days: buy the case for $20 a bottle, three times the estimated sales price. as many as you wanted! Things have ‘Investment’ Bin 389 comes out of the Elsewhere in Penfolds, an international changed, but this wine, the 1996 Bin cellar and off to market. A whopping bidder took home a 6L Imperial of 2013 389 is still a legend and in most Sterling 3,000 sales records make up the 1996 Grange for $58,250. Confirmation, once sale catalogues. Bin 389 data set in the Sterling Self again, that Penfolds continues to be the Valuation system; with a record high of most collectable of Australian wine, and Investment wise? It’s a proven performer $170 and an Auction estimate of $96- the most highly-contested at auction. from the past, from $20 at retail release $129. Last sale price was $124. Just in 1999 to the current auction value at for fun: buy a 1996 and a 2012 Bin 389. At an event celebrating the best of the $120 plus. As to future performance? Taste them together. Barossa, it was no surprise shiraz was My guess would say not much upside. king. A 12-bottle vertical of Langmeil The current release Bin 389 is around To view current Sterling catalogue lists Freedom went for three times the $100. Invest in what is in the bottle: a and find out more information about catalogue estimate, at $6,291. great premium drink and a bridge to a Sterling Wine Auctions visit sterlingwine. time passed when premium wine didn’t com.au. The increasing interest in Australian mean premium price. I would say ‘rush riesling was demonstrated by an amazing to buy’ as this will sell out with quantities result for a six-bottle vertical collection limited and demand always high – but of Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling, ‘don’t rush to drink’ as different reviews replete with a Contours Vineyard Tour see a drinking window ranging between hosted by winemaker Louisa Rose. 2016 (from a 1999 review) to 2032 (a Reaching $5,242, the result is equal to 2018 review). $874 per bottle, representing a local auction record for riesling. Do I show a bias in my view of this wine? Yes – and here is my confession. A 100 per cent clearance rate at the Penfolds Bin 60a, Bin 620, Bin 7, Bin event is indicative of both local and 80a, Bin 820, Bin 90a and Bin 920 are international interest in the wines of the true icons of the Australian wine the Barossa. Andrew Caillard MW, world. All cabernet shiraz blends, Langton’s co-founder, said, “Today’s they’re considered, by world wine result displayed Barossa’s credentials as commentators, to be some of the a great wine region of the world. Bidders greatest wines ever made, anywhere. from Australia and overseas participated Many see 1962 Bin 60a as the greatest in this dynamic auction, encouraging red wine ever made in Australia. and validating the positioning of Barossa 52 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019



355 TASTED 266 AWARDED MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATES T S Y R A H & S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E XIV Another excellent judging of this outstanding red varietal that offers Wine for Yoga Shingleback Davey so much, from consistent early drinking styles to top of the line Lovers Langhorne Brothers McLaren luxury examples that can hold their own against the best red wine Creek Shiraz Vale Shiraz competition. Here we see great examples of each style with the 2016 HHHH1/2 2017 HHH1/2 winemakers craft and fruit sourcing the major differences. Crimson wine that Subdued tarry bouquet looks surprisingly and a typical cool fresh for its age with climate palate with a generous dollop of good mid palate oak but with plenty of complexity and greenish dark fruits to match. notes. $18 Dusty tannins holding it SHIRAZ Berton VBBAEULSYUTSE together. $16 Trentham Estate UNDER $15 Vineyards Parsons Paddock Murray Darling Metal Label Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 10 TASTED Black South Eastern Shiraz 2018 HHHH Hints of rhubarb on 4 AWARDED Australia Shiraz Floral perfumed aromas the nose with nice 2018 HHH with a plumy edge. toasty oak backdrop “We don’t expect Raspberry jam nose Bigger and bolder in the and a flinty lift and miracles at this price mouth and full of plum confectionery sweet but we do expect the and cassis flavours with fruit flavours. $18 wines to be clean and fine tannins. $16 without faults,” said one with some brambles Taylors Hotelier Taltarni T-Series judge. “Whilst half made underneath. Smooth Wrattonbully Shiraz Victoria Shiraz it, others were either light-weight palate. Good 2018 HHHH 2018 HHH overripe or under ripe or tannins. $12 Juicy ripe plum A spicy, oak driven, nose had basic winemaking fragrances mix with the with good intensity of faults.” Earthworks Barossa toasty oak. Generous sweet cherry cola-like Valley Shiraz oaky palate but has the flavour profile. $18 2017 HHH fruit to carry it. “Very Cassis/cherry bouquet interesting wine.” $18 Sanguine VBBAEULSYUTSE with a slight leathery Shingleback Estate Kindred edge and good sour Haycutters McLaren Heathcote cherry-like flavour Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2017 HHH complexity. $12 2017 HHHH A pretty wine with a Big perfumed and floral SHIRAZ red fruit bouquet with a big perfumed oak nose $15-$20 palate that fills out with and dense mix of fleshy a rich complexity of fruit plum and oak flavours. Taylors Special 29 TASTED flavours. Tangy finish. $15 Release Clare Valley 16 AWARDED Shiraz 2017 HHHH 3-5 $18 Shingleback Red Bright lifted raspberry/ At this price there are Sidewood Knot McLaren Vale bramble nose with considerable options Stablemate Adelaide Shiraz 2017 HHH some spiciness pushing available for buyers. Hills Shiraz Bright primary fruit through. Palate has “This is a step up 2016 HHHH aromas with a spicy lift. lovely tangy energy from the previous A pretty, well balanced, Tangy acid driven palate of fruit, chocolate and class,” noted one wine with a flinty and has some fruit weight. tannins. $14.99 judge. “However there spicy cherry cola nose. $15 Project Wine Tail were some wines Good fruit density on the Spin Langhorne where winemakers palate with mouth filling Mr Riggs Wine Co. Creek Shiraz were attempting to tannins. $18 The Truant McLaren 2018 HHH1/2 create more flavour Vale Shiraz Nice lift of raspberry but sometimes losing 2017 HHH aromas with good use of balance”. Smells of peppery black oak and bright jubey fruit cherries with nice tannin flavours with good oak structure and good angular tannins. $14 varietal fruit weight. $17 54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Shearer’s Hill SHIRAZ/SYRAH Patritti Merchant Z Wine Rustica Berton Vineyards Premium Langhorne & BLENDS McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Valley Reserve Barossa Creek Shiraz $20-$25 2017 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2015 HHHH Valley Shiraz 2017 HHH Nicely poised and Still very youthful. 2017 HHH Generous spicy/minty 29 TASTED well-balanced fruit/oak Lifted cassis nose with Toasty oak nose with nose with a sweet aromas with a straight- peppery oak. Palate is some minty fruit fruit palate. A good 20 AWARDED forward but generous nicely filled out with underneath Good commercial style of chocolaty palate with savoury fruit flavours sweet red fruit flavours shiraz. $18 good level of chewy and good oak. 3-5 with rich oak. 3-5 A strong class, tannins. “A sound wine.” $20 $20 Kirrihill Wines especially for the price! Regional Selection More fruit weight and 5+ $24 Chain of Ponds Koonara Wines Series Clare Valley appropriate use of oak Angel’s Gift Shiraz 2017 HHH here. “Good oak to fruit Mount Avoca Grave’s Gate Coonawarra Shiraz Blackberry bouquet balance,” conmmented Moates Lane Adelaide Hills Syrah 2017 HHH with a meaty/savoury one judge. Victoria Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 Big oaky aromas with element. Sweet entry to 2018 HHHH Cherry Kirsch-like hints of dark fruit. the sour cherry palate. Very bright sweet aromas with some Massive peppery oak primary fruit fragrances obvious spiciness and palate. Very cool climate. 3-5 $19 and juicy fruit flavours huge sweet oak palate $20 d’Arenberg The Love with chewy tannins. tending to cover the Grass McLaren Vale Shingleback Red Shiraz 2016 HHHHH “Very more-ish,” said fruit. 3-5 $20 Knot Classified one judge. 5+ Pensilva Estate McLaren Vale A huge dark crimson $20.95 Thorn-Clarke Wines McLaren Vale Shiraz wine with the oak sitting Sandpiper Barossa 2017 HHH Shiraz 2017 HHH on top of the raspberry Valley Shiraz Sweet blueberry bouquet Fleshy red fruit fragrances Sandalford Margaret 2017 HHH1/2 and bright sweet plum and simple, rich and ripe fruit aromas. The River Range Subdued fruit nose fruit flavours. Good smooth well balanced Margaret River showing slight commercial style. $20 berry flavours. Some palate shows a peppery Shiraz 2017 HHHH spiciness and rich ripe great tannins. 3-5 A toasty, spicy, red fruit sweet plum flavours. $19 persistence with nice combination of aromas Good commercial style. drying tannins. 3-5 and a lightweight palate $20 filled with sweet fruit 3-5 $20 Kanoetree Wines Paringa South with subtle use of oak. Langhorne Creek Australia Shiraz Gomersal Wines $21.95 Richard Hamilton Shiraz 2017 HHH 2016 HHH Premium Barossa Little Road McLaren Lifted raspberry nose Chocolaty dark fruit Valley Shiraz d’Arenberg Vale Shiraz with mocha notes and bouquet and a well 2016 HHHHH The Footbolt 2017 HHH1/2 a pleasant chocolaty/ aged palate but still with Spicy dark fruit bouquet McLaren Vale Shiraz A bold oak driven shiraz licorice/red fruit palate. plenty of acidity. $15 with well-integrated 2016 HHHH with plumy richness $21.70 oak and showing a Nose of dark fruits of the to the nose and nice Shanahans The Old savoury edge. The forest with inky intensity varietal fruit filling the Pertaringa Dog Barossa Valley warming palate exhibits to the palate and slightly warming palate. $21 Undercover Shiraz 2016 HHH plenty of vitality and gritty tannins. Good McLaren Vale A sound commercial freshness with tangy commercial style. $20 Angas & Bremer Shiraz 2017 HHH style. Good density peppery flavours. Langhorne Creek Nose reminiscent of of flinty floral red fruit Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Ribena with attractive characters with slight 3-5 $20 Blackcurrant aromas sweet red currant green edge. $19.95 mix with dusty/spicy flavours and subtle Mockingbird Hill Blue Pyrenees Dry oak. Well balanced, tannins. $22 Clare Valley Shiraz Grown Pyrenees generous, palate with 2017 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2016 HHHH good fruit weight. Well Bright red wine Generous hit of fresh made. $20 Vidal Reserve with lifted floral fruit confectionery fruit Gimblett Gravels fragrances and slight fragrances. Palate is Syrah 2017 HHH smoky/tobacco notes. tasty, tangy and cool A pretty peppery fruit Good persistence of with powerful fruit nose and “Very exciting, cassis and cherry-like characters and toasty lip-smacking palate,” flavours with slight oak. 3-5 $24 according to one judge. $24.99 green edge. 3-5 $23.50 JUDGES - DAY 1 Matthew Pick Marc Van Haldren Yalumba winemaker for Winemaker at Yalumba Sam Watkins Oxford Landing brand. Wines. Formerly Winemaker Boar’s Rock Previously winemaker winemaker in South Africa Winery and Adelaide for Leo Buring, Yaldara for nine years, plus French Winemakers. Formerly and Leasingham with vintage experience. Judged winemaker at Wynns, Philip two vintages in Austria. South African Veritas Show, Shaw and Seppeltsfield Judge at the Adelaide Winemaker’s Choice wineries. Has vintaged Hills and Griffith wine Awards, Wine Magazine in Portugal and Napa shows. Associate at and Michelangelo Wine Valley. Associate judge at Barossa and Clare. Awards. the Royal Adelaide and Langhorne Creek wine shows. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 55

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV Z Wine Rustica Bird in Hand Two in Avon Brae Moculta Ortus Wines Single Barossa Valley the Bush Mt Lofty Eden Valley Shiraz Vineyard McLaren Shiraz 2016 HHH Ranges Shiraz 2017 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz Ripe, rich, oak driven 2017 HHHHH Dark licoricey fruit nose 2017 HHHH style but there is plenty Bright crimson red is underpinned with A big, bold and inky of nice dark cherry fruit wine with excellent toasty oak. The juicy style that’s quite warm underneath. $20 varietal fruit intensity palate has good length and sweet with good on the nose and some of fruit sweetness that’s density and complexity SHIRAZ lovely spiciness. The well integrated with of cassis fruit and toasty $25-$30 rich palate is full of plenty of oak. 5+ oak. 3-5 $25 2018/2017 chocolaty berry flavours $29.99 Sew & Sew Sashiko that linger across the McLaren Vale Shiraz 32 TASTED palate. 5+ $25 Coriole Sparta 2017 HHHH 26 AWARDED McLaren Vale Shiraz A savoury nose with an Sanguine Estate 2018 HHHH attractive floral/rose petal A consistent class of Progeny Heathcote Delightful Cherry Ripe- lift. Fresh and vibrant on well rated wines; a Shiraz like aromas with a palate the palate with attractive reflection of the 2017 2018 HHHH1/2 full of fresh red fruit rich flavour density. cool climate vintage and Peppery varietal fruit flavours laced with some showing the benefits aromas with a lift good oak and lovely 3-5 $25 of spending those few of spicy cherry-like tannins. 5+ $26 extra dollars. “Fruit characters. Silky smooth weight and better use of Thorn-Clarke Wines in the mouth with good Mr Riggs Wine Co. oak is the key,” said one Shotfire Barossa weight, length and The Gaffer McLaren judge. Valley Shiraz intensity of oak/fruit Vale Shiraz flavours. $25 2017 HHHH Mocha intensity to the 2017 HHHHH nose with hints of dark Big bold cherry cola-like fruits and slight spiciness. aromas with some Good palate with an berry compote notes. ample amount of bramble The palate is inky, rich fruit. 3-5 $25 and “ethereal” with a complexity of mouth filling flavours and grippy tannins. 5+ $28 We move freight globally, worry free. From ISO tanks right down to single bottle movements — our team has all of your global beverage supply chain needs covered. We store and distribute wine, beer and spirits across Australia with daily deliveries into retail distribution centres, on premise locations and direct to consumers. Our air and ocean team makes organising international imports and exports easy with in house customs brokers and expert industry knowledge. Want to find out more about how we can customise a supply chain solution for you? Speak with a local Mainfreight team member today! [email protected] facebook.com/mainfreight AMERICAS ASIA AUSTRALIA EUROPE NEW ZEALAND @Mainfreight in linkedin.com/company/mainfreight mainfreight.com 56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Kalleske Wines Capel Vale Regional Amadio Wines Ekhidna She-Viper Moppa Barossa Series Mount Barker Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2018 HHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2016 HHHHH 2017 HHHH Super oaky nose with 2017 HHH A good dark red colour A nose of red fruits and peppery plum nuances Peppery perfumed with a minty blueberry sweet oak with a dash and chocolaty berry nose and a pretty, well bouquet and a touch of black pepper. Good compote of a palate. balanced, fruit palate of spicy oak. Lovely length of licorice/Ribena- that has plenty of length and purity of like flavour complexity. 3-5 $26.95 energy. 5+ $28 varietal fruit flavours 5+ $28 Elysian Springs Sevenhill Inigo Clare supported by good use Bent Creek Black Spring Lamb Valley Shiraz of oak. 5+ $27.50 Dog McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Syrah 2017 HHH Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Dark currant-like aromas Gomersal Wines Sarsaparilla-like bouquet Lifted sweet oak with savoury notes, Lyndoch Road and a rich palate aromas and medium good flavour intensity Barossa Valley brimming over with bodied chocolaty palate and grippy tannins. Shiraz Mataro complex flavours. Good layered with cherry fruit. 2016 HHHH1/2 cool climate style. 3-5 $28 Intense chocolaty 5+ $28 aromas mingling with 3-5 $25 bramble fruit characters. K1 by Geoff Hardy Earthworks Tellurian Pastiche Good lift, vibrancy and Middle Hill Adelaide Succession Heathcote Shiraz density of lovely cherry Hills Shiraz Barossa Valley 2017 HHH and chocolate flavours 2017 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2017 HHH An elegant stalky cool with super tannins. Super minty aromas, Subdued nose with climate shiraz with She Oak Hill Estate very lifted with Marmite- leathery notes. Complex attractive spicy floral 3-5 $25 Heathcote Shiraz like notes and brooding and full flavoured palate nuances carrying 2017 HHHH complexity on the bright with a touch of sour through. $28 Reillys Clare Valley Intense fragrances rich palate. $25 cherries. 3-5 $25 Shiraz 2016 HHHH of forest fruits with Nick Haselgrove Kirrihill Wines Big warm spicy chocolaty elements Blackbilly McLaren Xabregas Great Vineyard Selection raspberry/cherry nose and a sweet, juicy and Vale Shiraz Southern Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz with a leathery licorice generous Cherry Ripe of 2017 HHH1/2 2017 HHH 2017 HHH edge. Good weight of a palate. $25 Charry chocolaty Stalky peppery Savoury and spicy on varietal fruit flavours and fragrances with berry some chewy tannins. Wicks Estate fruit beneath. Nice fragrances; interesting the pleasant nose with chocolaty/cherry funky characters. Tarry/ a generous, oak driven, 3-5 $25 Adelaide Hills Shiraz persistence on the Bonox palate with stalky palate. 3-5 $29 2017 HHHH palate. Still fresh. Fragrant floral aromatics green notes. 3-5 Sanguine Estate 5+ $25 $25 Progeny Heathcote with lingering lolly sweet Sanguine Estate SHIRAZ Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 cherry fruit flavours and Progeny Heathcote $25-$30 Cherry chocolate fine line of tannins. “Very Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 Sidewood 2016 & OLDER nose with slight green quaffable.” 3-5 $25 Restrained blueberry Adelaide Hills stalkiness to it and well bouquet with hints of Shiraz 2017 HHH 14 TASTED balanced palate with Forester Estate Life coffee and spice. Good Well balanced wine nice weight of varietal Style Margaret River density of fruit with showing plenty of 8 AWARDED fruit. $25 Shiraz 2017 HHHH some great tannins. poise and has lovely Bright varietal fruit briary fruit supported The highlights here Shingleback Davey nose with minty/spicy 5+ $25 by good oak. $26 really stood out while Estate McLaren Vale nuances and a lean there were some wines Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 fresh red fruit palate Zonte’s Footstep that were overripe Big oaky nose but also with pleasant spiciness. Chocolate Factory with confectionery has the fruit there too. McLaren Vale Shiraz sweetness or had been Flavours of cherries, 3-5 $26.99 2017 HHH kept in the oak for too chocolate and licorice Big lifted fruit driven long – disappointing! with grippy tannins. style with hints of rhubarb and showing 3-5 $25 slight green edge. 3-5 $27.50 JUDGES - DAY 2 Janelle Zerk Tom Darmody Owner/operator and Assistant winemaker at Adam Clay winemaker at Z Wines in the Taylors Wines. Has a Bachelor Penfolds winemaker in Barossa Valley. Associate of Viticulture & Oenology the Barossa Valley. Has judge, Hunter Valley wine from the University of completed vintages at show and Adelaide wine Adelaide. Previously a cellar Marchesi de Frescobaldi show. WSET level 3 and door assistant at Elderton in Chianti and Pellegrin advanced wine assessment Wines and Wolf Blass. in California. Judge course. Vintages in Hunter Previously a product expert at the Alternative Valley, Sonoma, Tuscany at Dan Murphys. Committee Varieties show Cairns, and Puligny Montrachet member of Clare Valley wine Queensland Wine (Burgundy). show. Awards and Clare Valley wine show. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 57

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV Fox Creek JSM Mollydooker Two Vidal Soler Gimblett Mr Riggs Wine Co. McLaren Vale Shiraz Left Feet McLaren Gravels Syrah Idle Lane McLaren Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Langhorne 2017 HHH1/2 Vale Shiraz Cabernet Franc Creek Shiraz A deep crimson wine 2017 HHHH1/2 2016 HHH1/2 Merlot Cabernet with a nose that is super Aromatic plum bouquet Restrained blueberry/ 2017 HHHH spicy and super stalky with a peppery edge. plum bouquet and a Cherries and licorice lift and a palate that is long, Vibrant palate, great minty cool fruit palate off the nose and has lean and dark. 5+ mouthfeel and ripe fruit that still has retained a long and generous $34.99 flavours with some freshness. 3-5 mouthful of flavour on spiciness and hints of $29 the New World style Tenafeate Creek coffee. $35 palate. 5+ $30 Basket Press One Hollick Estates Tree Hill Shiraz Oakover Wrattonbully Mr Riggs Wine Co. 2016 HHH1/2 Nicholas Signature Shiraz 2016 HHH Piebald Adelaide Restrained oak nose Range Western Savoury oak dominates Hills Syrah with hints of sweet Australia Shiraz the nose and has a 2017 HHHH red fruits. Oak tends to 2017 HHHH1/2 grippy tannic palate with Nose is dark inky and dominate the palate but Still looks very youthful tangy fruit flavours. $25 restrained with mocha has the fruit there too. with aromas of plums notes. Palate has good and licorice and Mercuri Estate length and density of 5+ $30 appealing chocolaty/ Settebello Coppe licorice palate with firm Clare Valley raspberry coulis-like Hand Crafted tannins and a peppery Shiraz 2016 HHH flavours. 5+ $30 by Geoff Hardy finish. $35 An oak driven style with McLaren Vale Redgate Wines sweet licorice/cherry Billy Button The Shiraz 2017 HHH Avon Brae Eden Margaret River fruit underneath and Beloved Alpine A medium weight wine Valley Shiraz Shiraz some edgy tannins. $25 Valleys Shiraz with bold sweet fruit 2017 HHHHH 2017 HHHH1/2 2017 HHHH laced with chocolaty A lovely purple wine. Bright, youthful and SHIRAZ/SYRAH Pretty perfumed leafy/ oak. Needs more age. Intriguing lifted berry attractive style with & BLENDS cherry bouquet with aromatics with nice a complexity of black $30-$35 flavours of crunchy 3-5 $30 spiciness and an elegant cherries and menthol red fruits, pepper and palate with long lingering on both the nose and 18 TASTED savoury notes. Very cool Maygars Hill vibrantly fresh fruit palate. Firm tannin climate. $32 Strathbogie Shiraz flavours and beautiful structure. $35 11 AWARDED 2016 HHH musky notes. $36.50 Atze’s Corner The Mount Avoca Estate A big, bold and well Yes Said The Seal Bachelor Barossa Organic Pyrenees aged wine with subtle Geelong Shiraz Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2017 HHHH aromas and a silky 2018 HHHH1/2 2017 HHHH Ripe red fruit fragrances smooth palate. $30 Excellent depth of purple An aromatic complexity with underlying oak and hues with lifted fragrant of toasty oak and No faulty wines here! a floral lift and attractive SHIRAZ/SYRAH oak aromas. Palate is a raspberry fruit with a “But are some wines tarry characters to the & BLENDS good balance between dash of pepper and a here ‘worked’ a bit more grippy tannic palate. $35-$40 the oak and raspberry balanced palate with to justify the price,” 2018/2017 fruit. Peppery notes and lingering flavours. $35 asked the judges. “The 3-5 $32.50 some mocha. $38 fruit delivers what it 24 TASTED should at this level but The Covert careful not to overdo it,” McLaren Vale 17 AWARDED advised one judge. Shiraz 2014 HHHH Rich, full, well balanced A strong class! “A Dindima wine. The lovely dark solid, even class of Orange Shiraz fruit is seamlessly wines here,” noted 2014 HHHH1/2 integrated with the one judge. “There The licorice/red fruit oak and has Bonox-like was great expression fragrances are starting notes. $30 of varietal fruit with to evolve into meaty well handled oak.” The savoury tertiary Bush Track Ovens judges commented on characters. Lightweight Valley Alpine Valleys the quality of the cool palate is a subtle Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 2017 vintage. Resultant balance between fruit, Perfumed plum nose wines are both good oak and tannins. $34 layered with oak. Sweet for drinking now or for straightforward palate cellaring. has good weight of varietal fruit. 5+ $30 58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Hare’s Chase Mount Avoca Estate Nick Haselgrove Fox Creek Short Simon Tolley Single Ironscraper Barossa Organic Old Vine Clarence Hill Red Row McLaren Vale Vineyard Adelaide Valley Shiraz Pyrnees Shiraz Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 HHHHH Hills Syrah 2017 HHHH 2017 HHHH Shiraz 2017 HHH Big powerful wine, 2016 HHHH1/2 Brooding chocolaty An interesting cool Smells of cherries, rhubarb beautifully balanced. Good depth of red hues nose has a nice lift climate shiraz with and chocolate with an The nose smells like with a rich and chocolaty of dark fruits and the fragrant perfumed appealing Black Forest cooked strawberries nose and a generous smooth, nicely textured bouquet and fresh cake-like palate. $35 with an earthy edge. fleshy palate with blackberry palate has a potpourri flavours with Rich ripe full-bodied complex layers of toasty savoury finish. $35 silky tannins. $37.95 Patritti Lot 3 Single palate with loads of cedar oak and chocolaty Rusty Bike Wines Yes Said The Seal Vineyard McLaren lively flavours. $38 fruit flavours. $35 Dragster Reserve Geelong Shiraz Vale Shiraz Z Wine Section Atze’s Corner The Clare Valley Shiraz 2017 HHHH 2017 HHH 3146 Barossa Valley Bachelor Barossa 2017 HHHH Savoury meaty nose; Fragrant spicy aromas Shiraz 2016 HHHHH Valley Shiraz Nose has layers of needs air to open up and and dark fruit flavours Dark ripe fruit fragrances 2016 HHHH1/2 raspberry fruit and has an attractive meaty/ nicely wrapped up in the mingle with meaty/ Subdued nose opens spices with classy leathery complexity to spicy oak. $35 savoury characters. up with air to fragrances vanillin oak flavours the chocolaty palate. $38 The full bodied palate perfumed dark fruit. across the length of Black Wattle SHIRAZ/SYRAH has flavours of prunes Silky smooth in the the palate finishing Vineyards Mount & BLENDS and olives and lovely mouth with persistent oaky. $35 Benson Shiraz $35-$40 length of mouth coating mouthful of, still Thorn-Clarke Wines 2017 HHH1/2 2016 & OLDER tannins. $35 youthful, licorice Eden Trail Barossa A lightweight Rhone-like flavours. $35 Valley Shiraz style with fragrant berry 24 TASTED 2017 HHHH fruit characters, pretty 20 AWARDED Excellent colour with floral notes and a dash inviting brooding of pepper. $35 These wines were more blackberry bouquet and Salena Estate in the dark fruit, riper full bodied chocolaty McLaren Vale style of wines with good fruit palate with lingering Shiraz 2018 HHH flavours and complexity aftertaste. $35 Chocolaty plum bouquet and generous oak with minty hint. Plums use. The best wines and cherries fill the here are good ageing mouth with flavour. $35 propositions with Salena Estate most holding up well Langhorne Creek and offering enjoyable Shiraz 2018 HHH drinking for the next 3-5 Complex smoked meat years. and red fruit nose with rich dark fruit flavour freshness. $35 Domaine Asmara Private Collection Heathcote Shiraz 2017 HHH Riper style with inviting brooding chocolaty aromas and warming oak driven palate. $35 JUDGES - DAY 3 Wolf Blass Leigh Francis Legendary Founder Sensory Research Stephen John of Wolf Blass Manager at the Senior Winemaker for The Wines. Wolf has a Australian Wine Wine Group Australia and winemaking legacy Research Institute owner/winemaker of Stephen spanning over 40 (AWRI). On AWRI John Wines. More than 30 years, and a history of Teaching Advisory Panel years’ winemaking experience. Industry Leadership! and Technical Quality Has judged at Adelaide, Panel. Associate judge, National, and Barossa wine Adelaide wine show. shows. Regular Winestate panellist and chairman of judges at the Winestate Wine of the Year Awards. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 59

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV Grandeur Wellington Lannister Old Vine Jericho Adelaide Sanguine Estate Jack Rabbit Bin 69 McLaren Vale Limited Release Hills Syrah Inception Heathcote Vineyard Shiraz 2016 HHHH Barossa Valley 2016 HHH Shiraz 2017 HHHHH Geelong Shiraz Lovely combination of Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Lifted musky strawberry Lovely brooding spicy 2017 HHHH1/2 raspberry, mulberry, A nose of red berry bouquet with more of fruit fragrances and a Vibrant wine with licorice and black pepper fruits with some lovely the same on the palate. rich complex palate filled elegant peppery fruit on both the nose complex fruit definition “Has personality!” $38 with dark sweet licorice aromas. Generous palate and palate. Showing on the palate edged with flavour profile with with good concentration chocolaty maturity. $35 savoury elements. $38 Scotchmans Hill oaky notes and velvety and weight of chocolaty Thorn-Clarke Wines Amadio Wines Bellarine Peninsula tannins. Excellent fruit flavours and ripe Barossa Trail Barossa Kangaroo Island Shiraz 2016 HHH cellaring potential. $40 tannin support. $40 Valley Shiraz Trading Co. Lifted malty aromas and Jack Rabbit Tamburlaine Organic 2016 HHHH Kangaroo Island maturing creamy oak Vineyard Wines Reserve Rich, dark and brooding Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 palate showing a slight Geelong Shiraz Hunter Valley Syrah shiraz. Nose shows Aromatic sour cherry green edge. $39 2018 HHHH1/2 2017 HHHH1/2 smoked meats and aromas and a nicely With some air the nose A fruit-cake of a nose black olives with similar maturing red currant Forester Estate opens up to smoky lifted with a perfumed lift. characters echoed on palate. “Quite Rhone like,” Home Block dark plum fragrances. Lingering varietal fruit the palate. $35 thought one judge. $39 Margaret River The lengthy palate is flavours and mouth Kopparossa Estate Lannister Old Vine Shiraz 2016 HHH a seamless balance coating tannins on the Coonawarra Shiraz Limited Release Slight minty nose with between chocolaty plum creamy, youthful and 2014 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz a floral lift and a cool fruit and mocha oak balanced palate. $44 Lifted spicy/herbal 2013 HHH1/2 climate, potpourri-like, characters. $40 Haselgrove Catkin aromatics on the nose Aged mocha/caramel flavour profile. $39.99 McLaren Vale Shiraz and mature chocolaty nose and mature 2017 HHHH plum flavours on the long savoury/meaty flavour Grandeur Wellington Vibrant floral fruit palate with its mouth complexity on the Bin 69 McLaren Vale bouquet with a meaty watering tannins. $35 palate. Drink soon! $38 Shiraz 2015 HHH edge. Nicely textured, Windowrie Family Sandalford Estate Nicely developed oaky sweet and creamy Reserve Cowra Reserve Margaret aromas and rich dark palate has maturing Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 River Shiraz fruit flavours with a licorice-like flavours. $40 Pretty lifted musky 2016 HHH savoury finish. $35 Tintilla Estate bouquet and a bright and Youthful oak driven wine Reserve Pokolbin lively palate rich with showing great depth and Grandeur Wellington Hunter Valley Shiraz peppery fruit and great power with hints of boot Bin 69 McLaren Vale 2017 HHHH tannin length. $35 polish. $35 Shiraz 2014 HHH An inviting and very Silver Spoon Estate Lifted licoricey aromas classy shiraz. Smells The Ensemble and silky smooth palate like fruit cake and has Heathcote Shiraz with persistent flavour persistent spicy fruit Viognier 2016 HHH complexity. $35 flavours complemented Spicy characters lift off by the oak. $40 the nose and it has a SHIRAZ/SYRAH powerful, high impact, & BLENDS oak palate. $35 $40-$45 Z Wine Hedley 2018/2017 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 HHH 19 TASTED A nicely balanced 15 AWARDED savoury style of shiraz studded with bright red Vibrant hues here! and blue fruits. $35 A step up from the Hare’s Chase previous class with more Marananga Barossa intense fruit characters. Valley Shiraz “Fruit was king here,” 2016 HHH noted one judge. “But An “old school” shiraz this was also lifted by that exhibits depth, the appearance of some balance, texture and serious high quality oak.” complexity. $38 60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Eloper Adelaide Hills Taltarni Pyrenees Kalleske Wines SHIRAZ/SYRAH Jim Brand Syrah 2018 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 Greenock Barossa & BLENDS Jim’s Vineyard A bright, youthful and Youthful and inviting Valley Shiraz $40-$45 Coonawarra Shiraz acid driven wine with shiraz with subtle floral 2017 HHH 2016 & OLDER 2016 HHHHH minty sour cherry fruit fruit fragrances with dark Fragrant blueberry nose Dark red wine has characters showing a fruit flavours wrapped up and an aromatic blue 16 TASTED fruit cake-like aromas dash of pepper. $40 in malty oak. $40 fruit palate with a spicy 11 AWARDED with chocolaty notes. Pertaringa Over the Oakdene Single finish. $40 Palate has a sweet and Top McLaren Vale Vineyard Geelong Shark’s Block A mixed result. “Are peppery raspberry fruit Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale winemakers trying too flavour profile; some Red currants on the nose A cool climate style of Shiraz 2017 HHH hard,” queried one judge. maturity evident with with a ripe fruit driven shiraz with dark savoury/ Subtle cool, minty, nose “Some wines showed firm ripe tannins. $40 palate that has drying minty aromatics and a and straightforward too much acid, too many Sanguine Estate tannins. Starting to show maturing chocolaty palate palate with big tarry pressings or too high a Inception Heathcote mature notes. $40 with herbal notes. $43 flavours and warm level of alcohol rather Shiraz 2016 HHHH Sew & Sew Contour Bellarine Estate finish. $40 than trying for balanced A big wine - smells Adelaide Hills Syrah Two Wives Bellarine Tamburlaine Organic wines.” However like a rum and raisin 2017 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2018 HHH Wines Reserve the better wines did chocolate bar. Intense Floral spicy aromas with Bright plum bouquet Orange Syrah show that balance and concentration of floral hints of peppercorns. with rhubarb notes and 2017 HHH offer the potential for fruit flavours on the The palate is reminiscent some lovely varietal fruit Elegant youthful and cellaring. warm palate. $40 of Cherry Ripe with lots flavours. $40 very drinkable fruit Blue Pyrenees of pepper. $40 driven wine with a Section One background of oak. $44 Pyrenees Shiraz 2016 HHHH A core of raspberry aromas with a rose petal lift. Quite an oaky palate, some red fruit and “voluminous” tannins. $42 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 61

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV Stockman’s Ridge De Lisio Catalyst Tenafeate Creek Taltarni Old Vine Ross Hill Pinnacle Wines Outlaw McLaren Vale Shiraz Basket Press One Estate Pyrenees Orange Shiraz Orange Shiraz Grenache 2015 HHH Tree Hill Shiraz Shiraz 2017 HHHH 2015 HHHH Mature chocolaty nose 2015 HHHHH 2017 HHHH1/2 Delicate subdued nose Unique and interesting with a floral lift and A toasty depth of Youthful red purple with a perfumed lift. with a nose that is a warm, rich, upfront aromas laced with ripe hues with lifted berry Pretty palate; subtle and mix of Turkish Delight aromatic flavours. $40 plum fruit characters and fruit bouquet and balanced with elegant and dark chocolate. The the generous palate is lingering, upfront Turkish Delight flavour peppery palate is Rhone- SHIRAZ/SYRAH rich with dark savoury sweet fruit flavours profile. $45 like. $40 & BLENDS flavour complexity. with nice chocolaty Nick Haselgrove $45-$50 Excellent length and complexity and firm Leura Park Estate Clarence Hill great mouth feel. $45 tannic finish. $45 Geelong Shiraz Reserve McLaren 20 TASTED Haselgrove Il Kirrihill Wines EB’s 2018 HHH1/2 Vale Shiraz 15 AWARDED Padrone McLaren The Squire Clare Meaty and savoury; 2016 HHH1/2 Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz needs some air to open Prunes and chocolate The judges declared this 2017 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 up. Spicy aromas and on the nose with ripe to be the standout class Nose has plums, A powerful style bright fruit flavours with prune flavours and black thus far. “Turning point cherries, choc-mint and brimming over with supporting tannins. $45 pepper and some firm here overall for density spices leaping out of the vibrant black fruits, drying tannins. $40 and length on the glass. Rich voluminous smoked meats and K1 by Geoff Hardy Parous Wines palate,” said one judge. palate with flavours olives and showing Adelaide Hills Shiraz McLaren Vale “Here we are seeing in the olive tapenade chocolaty complexity 2016 HHH1/2 Shiraz Mataro great fruit use and the spectrum. Lashing of with firm lingering “A wine with 2014 HHH1/2 selection of high quality tannins. $45 tannins. $45 personality!” Crimson Concentrated sweet oak.” Krondorf Symmetry red colour, jubey red licorice and blackcurrant Barossa Valley fruit nose and red bouquet that is echoed Bird in Hand Mt Shiraz currant palate with on the palate with Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2016 HHHH1/2 green notes. $45 smoked meat notes. $40 2017 HHHHH A big wine; a complexity Arm’s Length Wine The vibrant and of black fruit fragrances Foxeys Hangout Co Red Empress seamlessly balanced and powerful, slightly Mornington Barossa Valley wine still has youthful stewed fruit flavours Peninsula Shiraz Shiraz 2016 HHH purple hues. A pretty with the firm crunchy 2018 HHH Lifted black jellybean nose with an edge of tannins adding structure Fragrant, floral and aromas and a spicy minty dark fruits and and length. $49.99 youthful with spicy licorice flavour profile. powerful plum pudding aromatics and pure Some classy oak. $40 of a palate with a Purple Hands Wines strawberry flavours. $45 Winton Road Old warming finish. $45 After Five Wine Co. Vine Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Bird in Hand Shiraz 2016 HHH Domaine Asmara Barossa Valley Adelaide Hills Surprisingly lifted nose Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2017 HHHH Syrah 2017 HHH and smooth chocolaty Shiraz 2017 HHHHH Nose smells like a Smells of raspberries and plum palate with A “serious” wine blueberry pie! The milk chocolate with red leathery notes. Dry that should age very chocolaty blueberry palate berry flavours and great tannins. $40 well. Attractive dark has a “wall of tannins,” “playful” tannins. $45 Maygars Hill Reserve savoury chocolaty/ high acid and mouth Strathbogie Shiraz licorice elements well puckering finish. $45 K1 by Geoff Hardy 2016 HHH integrated with heavily Adelaide Hills Shiraz Slight green herbal toasted oak. Has pastille 2017 HHH bouquet and tight sweetness and loads of Vibrant lifted herbal peppery/spicy palate character! $45 bouquet with cola-like with mouth coating flavours that show a tannins. $42 Mum’s Block slightly green floral Tellurian Block 3 TLR Barossa Valley edge. $45 Heathcote Shiraz Shiraz 2017 HHHHH 2016 HHH A rich and powerful SHIRAZ/SYRAH Lots of oak here but benchmark of a shiraz & BLENDS has attractive tart cherry with a youthful core of $50-$60 fruit, nice spiciness and dark licorice aromas grainy tannins. $42 and has a bold weighty 14 TASTED palate brimming over 12 AWARDED with blue and black fruit and olive flavours. Another strong class. “A $46.70 lot of room for cellaring here,” said one judge. “Loads of vibrancy and complexity with great integration of appropriate tannins.” 62 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Mollydooker Blue Schubert Estate Hemera Estate Parous Wines Sanguine Estate Eyed Boy McLaren The Gosling Barossa Limited Release Barossa Valley D’Orsa Heathcote Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz Home Block Shiraz 2012 HHH Shiraz 2016 HHHHH 2017 HHHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 Barossa Valley Aged, earthy, meaty Big dense oak driven Delightful lifted dark Brooding tarry savoury Shiraz 2017 HHHH shiraz with complex nose with dark fruits pastille fruit bouquet fruit fragrances with Savoury earthy nose blue fruit still hanging pushing through. Palate with a generous, warm attractive blackcurrant with funky nuances. A in there. Great drinking is soft in the mouth and and very vibrant palate edge and similar light weight peppery now. $50 offers a complexity of that is rich with delicious characters are echoed palate with more of ripe varietal fruit, quality spicy red fruit flavours on the full bodied, the funky elements SHIRAZ/SYRAH oak with a fine line of layered with black olive seamlessly balanced, evident. $50 & BLENDS tannins. $70 characters. $55 palate. $55 Mr Riggs Wine Co. $60-$80 Zonte’s Footstep Mr Riggs Wine Silver Spoon Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017/2016 Z-Force McLaren Co. Burnt Block The Hallmark 2016 HHHH Vale Shiraz Petite McLaren Vale Shiraz Heathcote Shiraz A huge wine - still 24 TASTED Sirah 2016 HHHHH 2016 HHHHH 2015 HHHH1/2 showing purple hues. 18 AWARDED A beautiful full-bodied Dark, inky rich, wine Inky colour with inviting The nose is dense and A group of both shiraz. The nose offers a with a dense and lifted black olive bouquet the palate has layers of excellent wines and melange of rich ripe fruit intense licorice and and some rich, upfront, fruit, oak and tannins. some “pretenders.” and classy oak that is all blackberry bouquet and olive flavour complexity $50 The best wines had repeated on the long, a very weighty palate with a generous spicy Shingleback D Block fruit depth and vibrancy well balanced, palate. laced with savoury peppery finish. $55 Reserve McLaren with lifting premium oak Has some lovely soft black olive and soy-like Vale Shiraz balance. But there were tannins. $70 flavours with grippy 2014 HHHH some wines that failed d’Arenberg The Dead tannins. $50 Subtle plum bouquet to provide the fruit depth Arm McLaren Vale Ekhidna Linchpin laced with chocolate/ required to justify the Shiraz 2016 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz licorice elements. Palate price and a few were A classy number 2016 HHHH1/2 still vibrant with plenty using old oak; a cost with great regional Almost black in colour of acid and tasting of saving resulting in a characteristics and with attractive chocolaty black cherries. $55 detrimental end result. offering excellent fruit and toasty Domaine Tournon cellaring potential. Rich oak nose. Palate is Lady’s Lane Vineyard Gomersal Wines fruit cake of a nose intense with savoury/ Heathcote Shiraz Estate Grown and tight but complex licorice flavours. High 2015 HHH Barossa Valley palate. Lovely fruit. High acid impact. Great Mature, earthy, Shiraz 2016 HHHHH tannins. $75 complexity. $55 leathery edged aromas A well-balanced wine that Tenafeate Creek with a seamlessly is maturing nicely. The Basket Press One integrated palate and nose is an intensity of Tree Hill Shiraz drying finish. $50 sweet oak and fresh fruit 2014 HHHH1/2 De Lisio Krystina with a beautiful, complex, A generous wine still McLaren Vale Shiraz palate. “All class,” said has some good varietal 2014 HHH one judge. $60 fruit on the nose with Firmly structured, aged, a spicy Christmas savoury/leathery style pudding of a palate. It’s ready for drinking now. $55 weighty, balanced and complex. $55 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 63

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV McLaren Vale III Mockingbird Hill Fox Creek Old Vine Nick Haselgrove The McLaren Vale III Associates Squid MCR Block Clare McLaren Vale Shiraz Old Faithful Top Of Associates Legacy Ink Single Vineyard Valley Shiraz 2017 HHH The Hill McLaren Single Vineyard Estate Grown 2017 HHH1/2 “Very regional” Has Vale Shiraz Estate Grown McLaren Vale Shiraz A mature oaky nose; intense dark varietal fruit 2012 HHHHH McLaren Vale 2017 HHHH1/2 quite rich and complex. aromas and a warm, A classic true to Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 A full bodied classic Velvety soft in the mouth flavoursome, full-bodied style shiraz showing A rich powerful that has dense black/ with layers of ripe fruit palate. $68 excellent maturity. Christmas cake nose red hues, masses of flavours. $64 The nose is a rich with an elegant palate ripe fruit characters and Wordsmith Upper Sanguine Estate complexity of Christmas that is still fresh and huge, heavily toasted, Blocks Heathcote D’Orsa Heathcote cake-like aromas with alert with a long soft oak with high level of Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2017 HHH beautiful, rich, complex, finish. $75 tannins and a fine drying “A delightful classic,” A big oak bomb but has lipsmaking, flavours. $75 Finniss River Block finish. $65 enthused one judge. some very intense dark Reserve Currency Gumpara Wines Has rich fruit cake-like fruit lurking beneath Tenafeate Creek Creek Shiraz Mader Reserve complexity on both the and a strong tannin Basket Press One 2015 HHH Barossa Valley nose and palate. Very backbone. $70 Tree Hill Shiraz Some age complexity to Shiraz flavoursome! $64.15 2010 HHHHH the dark fruit nose and 2016 HHHH1/2 Silver Spoon Estate A classic Aussie style powerful varietal fruit Interesting nose; big, Grandeur Wellington The Hallmark of shiraz that’s dense flavours. $65 ripe, sweet and intense Cellar Reserve Heathcote Shiraz black/red in colour, has La Pleiade and a very classy, McLaren Vale 2016 HHH gorgeous ripe fruit/ Heathcote Shiraz tight, palate with some Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Complex ripe fruit/ sweet oak fragrances 2015 HHH excellent tannins. It just A lovely well balanced vanillin oak aromas and and a delicious rich A complex wine with needs more time to classic shiraz style a young, sweet and very complexity of flavours. structure, length and really shine. “Very well starting to show some flavoursome palate. $65 “It has class!” $60 balance and a warming made.” $60 aged characters. High Atze’s Corner Eddies finish. Needs time. $68 level of tannins and a Villa Maria Reserve Old Vine Barossa Bent Creek Reserve Aus Provenance warm finish. $70 Gimblet Gravels Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz AWJS Wisdom Gundog Estate Rare Syrah 2016 HHH 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH Coonawarra Game Hunter Valley A bright purple, A nicely ageing wine Lovely bottle age Shiraz 2016 HHHH Shiraz 2017 HHH lightweight style with that still shows some complexity obvious on A full-bodied tannic An attractive complexity slight green edge to the fruit freshness on the nose and a mature wine. Has a complexity of ripe red berry fruit, fruit and an interesting the nose with a silky and flavoursome of toasty oak and ripe oak and slightly drying use of oak. $69.99 smooth, mature, oaky palate. $75 fruit aromas and great tannins with a soft palate and warming Esk Valley depth of flavour on a well- finish. $60 Vidal Legacy finish. $60 Winemakers Reserve structured palate. $60 Z Wine Julius Gimblett Gravels Finniss River Block Gimblett Gravels Patritti JPB Single Barossa Valley Syrah 2016 HHH Reserve Currency Syrah 2014 HHH Vineyard McLaren Shiraz 2017 HHH An attractive medium Creek Shiraz A flavoursome mix of Vale Shiraz A lighter youthful wine weight commercial style Cabernet classic shiraz fruit and 2017 HHH1/2 with good length of with ample cherry berry 2015 HHHH classy oak. Still quite Deep crimson wine blackberry and plum fruit and slight green An excellent blend fresh. $69.99 with powerful varietal fruit characters with notes. $79.99 offering great Nick Haselgrove fruit characters matched moderate tannins. $60 drinkability. It has rich The Old Faithful by the spicy oak and SHIRAZ/SYRAH ripe fruit/oak aromas and Café Block good balance between & BLENDS a classic palate. Just McLaren Vale tannins and acid. $60 $60-$80 needs more time. $65 Shiraz 2013 HHH 2015 & OLDER Complex mature aromas and well integrated 14 TASTED oak/fruit flavours with 10 AWARDED balancing tannins. $75 “Too many green wines here from cool climate regions,” said one judge. “Different vintages performed differently with 2015 performing well along with a couple of excellent 2012 and 2010 examples.” 64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting SHIRAZ/SYRAH Schubert Estate Haselgrove Col Grandeur Wellington Haselgrove The & BLENDS The Sentinel Barossa Cross Single Cellar Reserve Ambassador Single $80-$100 Valley Shiraz Vineyard McLaren McLaren Vale Shiraz Vineyard McLaren 2016 HHHHH Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz 26 TASTED Very intense and 2016 HHHH1/2 Nicely balanced and well- 2017 HHHH 23 AWARDED impressive sweet Dense shades of purple, aged wine with a dense A full-bodied and Finally consistent, high varietal fruit characters beautiful bouquet of mature colour. Ripe fruit velvety soft wine that scoring wines! “Some dominate here but also fresh rich fruit and fragrances swell from is all fruit and smelling great wines here shows a powerful hit of classy oak. Excellent, the glass with a warm and tasting like sweet combining complexity charry oak with a fine long, tight palate with palate full of sweet fruit mulberry jam. $85 with freshness; a line of tannins. Still very generous mulberry flavours. $90 Haselgrove Col step up from previous youthful. $88 flavours. Warming on the Hemera Estate Cross Single classes,” enthused one Mollydooker finish. $90 Limited Release Vineyard McLaren judge. Enchanted Path Reillys RCV Aurora Barossa Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Pressings Clare Valley Shiraz 2017 HHHH Mollydooker Shiraz Cabernet Valley Shiraz 2017 HHHH A good style with Carnival of Love 2017 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 A soft delicate style richness, complexity and McLaren Vale Shiraz Has class, freshness and “Different!” agreed the with the sweet lifted elegance. Has classy 2017 HHHHH length. Masses of sweet judges. It has interesting oak tending to dominate oak and ripe red cherry A huge, in your face, style oak, tannins and acid spicy, slightly leathery, but there is plenty of fruit with a powerful with a nose that shouts here nicely balanced fragrances and a mouth- excellent ripe berry fruit tannin structure. $90 of Christmas cake and an by intense dark berry puckering tannic palate behind it. $80 De Lisio McLaren excellent palate with nicely fruit characters. Will age that has masses of Vale Shiraz focussed rich fruit flavours beautifully. $80 flavour. $95 2016 HHHH with a lovely balance of Kalleske Wines A classic Aussie shiraz; fine tannins. $80 Eduard Barossa Schubert Estate powerful and complex Valley Shiraz The Lone Goose with intense spicy fruit 2016 HHHH1/2 Barossa Valley aromas and a beautifully Wine shows great Shiraz Viognier balanced palate that is crimson intensity with 2016 HHHH1/2 still fresh. $80 very complex nose that A fine, well made, wine Shingleback has lots of fresh new that is ageing beautifully. Unedited McLaren oak and a dynamic fruit Powerful spicy oak lifts Vale Shiraz cake of a palate. “Classic off the nose and has 2016 HHHH big end of town.” $85 intense concentration of A great food wine; still fruit/oak flavours. Quite very young with ripe fruit astringent. $98 cake-like fruit characters matched by the sweet oak and high level of tannins. $80 Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 HHHH A lively uncomplicated fruit driven shiraz. Lovely purple hues, slight medicinal nuances and fine drying tannins. Well made wine. $80 Ekhidna Rechner McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH A huge old-fashioned style of shiraz that has rich powerful varietal fruit, loads of acid and a high level of alcohol. $85 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 65

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV Kopparossa Estate Vintage Reserve Coonawarra Shiraz 2004 HHH1/2 A well advanced shiraz. Very developed nutty/ honeyed aromas and attractive mature flavours. Drinking well now. $90 Haselgrove The Lear McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 HHH Powerful hit of ripe fruit fragrances and simple acid driven palate with cherry/berry flavours. $90 Momentum Wines Brand & Sons CBD Mollydooker Velvet Reillys RCV Epitaph Grandeur Wellington 100 Year Old Coonawarra Shiraz Glove McLaren Vale Clare Valley Shiraz Cellar Reserve Heritage Barossa 2016 HHH Shiraz 2017 HHHHH 2014 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz An astringent acid driven A huge fruit driven shiraz “A top wine – beautifully 2008 HHHHH 2015 HHHH wine that will mature that’s beautifully fresh balanced,” noted “Very mature but well A lovely, well crafted, very nicely with some and all berries with a one judge. Inviting preserved,” thought one wine showing the bottle age. $90 density and intensity of blackcurrant/toasty oak judge. Ripe and tarry on benefit of bottle age. Fox Creek Reserve oak underneath. Just complexity on the nose the nose with a huge Ripe dark fruits, toasty McLaren Vale Shiraz needs time to be its best. and velvety smooth in tannic varietal palate, oak and plenty of 2015 HHH “It’s all class!” $195 the mouth with classic plenty of acidity and a tannins. $90 Some attractive bottle shiraz flavours. $100 long warming finish. $150 age complexity evident with spicy/ripe varietal fruit and sweet oak. $90 Tintilla Estate SHIRAZ/SYRAH Patriarch Pokolbin & BLENDS Hunter Valley Syrah $100-$200 2014 HHHH Still quite youthful and 27 TASTED alert for a five-year-old. 25 AWARDED Lovely sweet oak and powerful varietal fruit. Just Another consistent starting to mature. $80 class of powerful wines. Kopparossa Estate They delivered what we Vintage Reserve expect at this price – Coonawarra Shiraz complexity with retained 2012 HHH1/2 freshness and vibrancy. A simple, nicely matured, dark fruit nose. Palate has plenty of acid and high level of tannins. “Excellent drinking.” $90 d’Arenberg The Fruit Tenafeate Creek Richardson Reserve Hemera Estate Bat McLaren Vale Judgement One Pyrenees Shiraz JDR Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Tree Hill Shiraz 2013 HHHHH Valley Shiraz Some age evident on 2016 HHHHH “Wow,” exclaimed one 2017 HHHH1/2 the nose but still has A very tannic, high acid, judge when tasting A sound, fresh, fruit freshness and wine for now, it just this wine. “Beautiful well balanced and good length of dark fruit needs time to settle complexity – very beautifully flavoured flavours with strong down. Deep purple French.” Has a superb shiraz. Excellent bright tannins. $99 hues, very intense shiraz palate – great purple hues, nice oak varietal fruit and great structure. Excellent for freshness on the nose use of spicy oak. One its age. $150 and silky smooth in the for the cellar. $100 mouth. $100 66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Haselgrove Bird in Hand Reillys RCV Bird in Hand Nest McLaren Vale III The Cruth McLaren Nest Egg Mt Lofty Moonvine Barossa Egg Adelaide Hills Associates Giant Vale Shiraz Ranges Shiraz Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHH Squid Ink Reserve 2017 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH1/2 2017 HHHH Attractive mature fruit Single Vineyard A very classy wine that Nose reeks of fresh A robust powerful wine aromas with cedary Estate Grown needs to do time in the dark fruits with lovely with classy varietal fruit cigar box complexity. McLaren Vale Shiraz cellar! Has lovely depth underlying oak adding and lovely toasty oak Soft in the mouth; 2016 HHH1/2 and richness of sweet complexity and an adding complexity to the excellent sweet fruit and A beautifully balanced fruit with plenty of oak intense powerful palate nose and stylish palate. aged characters. Great shiraz with very complex adding complexity. $150 with everything in $100 with food. $110 oaky aromas and a tight Bird in Hand perfect harmony. $110 Wicks Estate Sevenhill Brother tannic palate with good Nest Egg Adelaide Palmarium Eminence Adelaide John May Reserve line of acid. $180 Hills Shiraz Exemplar Barossa Hills Shiraz Release Clare Valley Palmarium Exemplar 2016 HHHH1/2 Valley Shiraz 2016 HHHH Shiraz 2014 HHHH Heathcote Shiraz A big, generous and 2011 HHHH1/2 Great colour here. A A huge tarry old- 2010 HHH1/2 typical Aussie shiraz A well integrated, nicely lovely mix of powerful fashioned style with Mature colour and a style with vibrant lifted matured, shiraz yet still oak and dark ripe cherry excellent complexity of powerful nose with aromas and intense quite fresh for an 8 year- berry fruit. The lengthy dark savoury fruits and aged nutty/leathery fleshy flavours with old. Good concentration palate is bordering on plenty of nutty leathery characters and a sound good impact of acid and of fruit with excellent lightweight. $100 age elements. $110 uncomplicated palate. tannins. $110 bottle age characters. Z Wine Plowman Palmarium Exemplar $125 Z Wine Poole $125 Dry Grown Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz Sandalford Old Vine Barossa Tenafeate Creek Valley Shiraz 2010 HHHH Prendiville Reserve Valley Shiraz Judgement One 2016 HHHH A lovely soft well Margaret River 2016 HHHH1/2 Tree Hill Shiraz A huge, flavoursome, matured wine with a Shiraz 2017 HHH Intense crimson wine; 2010 HHHH1/2 fruit driven wine with huge nose and intense A distinctive, bright still young and fresh A massive tannic wine intense crimson hues. flavours on the well purple, fruit driven style with big hit of spicy fruit with interesting nutty Oak not obvious but has structured palate. High that’s all mulberries with fragrances and a “soft bottle age on the big powerful drying tannins. in acid with chalky no obvious oak. $120 cuddly palate,” with a fruity nose and huge $120 tannins. $125 mouthful of ripe fruit complex palate rich flavours. $120 with varietal fruit. Long lingering finish. $150 WKR A DIFFERENT KIND OF ‘SELLAR’! Discover Delicia King William Road, a ‘sellar’ of fine acai bowls, textured raw treats, very smooth award winning coffees, unique warm vegan meals, and vibrant, edgey smoothies and shakes, all will enjoy! Call in and be surprised at Delicia KWR! Delicia King William Road 54a King William Road, Goodwood, SA. Phone 0401114823 Open Mon- Fri 8am to 4pm • Weekends 9am to 4pm Order online at www.deliciaacaibar.com Ubereats, Deliveroo, or Phone orders. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 67

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV Schubert Estate Penfolds Grange Bird in Hand Bird in Hand MAC Torbreck Run Rig Goose Yard Barossa Barossa Valley MAC Mt Lofty Adelaide Hills Shiraz Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHHHH Ranges Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2015 HHH 2016 HHH Almost black in colour 2012 HHHH1/2 Nose is a complexity of Full bodied shiraz with Nose is reminiscent of a with purple tints. Huge, Another classic Aussie fruit, oak and bottle age an old style tarry nose vintage port with a very very classy, dark fruit style of shiraz with bold with a generous palate and powerful ripe fruit ripe fruit palate. Has aromas and a massive varietal fruit characters, that’s lovely and soft and flavours. $285 potential! $160 palate intense with velvety soft tannins and rich. $350 Henschke Hill Of complex flavours. Still excellent vanillin oak. Z Wine Hein Grace Barossa Valley Guigal Brune et young. $1,100 Great food wine. $350 Ancestor Vine Shiraz 2014 HHH Blonde France Syrah Pertaringa Yeoman M.Chapoutier Barossa Valley Developed aromas with 2015 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Ermitage l’Ermite Shiraz 2017 HHH green bean-like nuances. Berry bouquet and 2016 HHHH1/2 Northern Rhone A soft easy drinking Great flavour intensity elegant, straightforward Great purple hues here Shiraz 2016 HHHH style with a simple and oak driven tannins. palate with subtle fruit and a beautiful, complex, Powerful aromas of ripe fruit bouquet and $900 and strong tannins. $150 cedar chest of a nose cigar box oak mingling a fresh, light varietal with a fabulous palate with the dark fruits. An palate. $300 Bird in Hand Nest that is a perfection interesting palate laced Egg Mt Lofty Ranges of fruit and tannin with plenty of tannins Taylors The Pioneer Shiraz 2014 HHH integration with good and acidity. $690 Clare Valley Shiraz Mature colour, level of acid. $250 Greenock Creek 2015 HHH aged aromas and Bird in Hand MAC Roennfeldt Road A fresh fruity style with uncomplicated tannic Adelaide Hills Shiraz Barossa Valley dark shiraz fruit aromas palate with good level of 2016 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHHH and flavours supported fruit. $110 Lovely aromas; nose Nose still very youthful by great oak. $200 is a bright complex with fleshy dark fruits Grandeur Wellington concentration of varietal and a minty lift. The acid Gumpara Wines Reserve McLaren fruit and fresh oak. Great driven palate has some Hexen Barossa Vale Shiraz palate, has structure intense fruit flavours. Valley Shiraz 2007 HHH and depth with rich $210 2015 HHH Very developed nutty fruit flavours and good Schubert Estate Intense colour, maturing nose and a complex tannins. $350 The Gander Barossa oak/berry aromas and a somewhat maderised Bird in Hand Valley Shiraz long, oak driven, palate. and tannic palate. $150 MAC Mt Lofty 2015 HHH1/2 $240 Ranges Shiraz Huge nose with vintage SHIRAZ/SYRAH 2013 HHHH1/2 port-like characters. & BLENDS Fresh lifted varietal fruit Warm and sweet in the $200+ bouquet with bottle mouth with rich dark age adding complexity. fruit flavours. $258 15 TASTED Silky smooth in the 15 AWARDED mouth with sweet STAR RATINGS  concentration of flavours Very consistent group starting to evolve. $350 Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of with perhaps price Ekhidna Rare Barrel excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. being an issue for McLaren Vale Shiraz All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry consumers. At this 2012 HHHH1/2 professionals and are compared in peer level it is a subjective The intense dark fruit classes by three judges. situation with everyone nose still looking quite CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, having favourites. As you fresh and has a tight, a major mail-order business. would expect there is elegant, palate with long CD Cellar door price. extreme intensity here lingering tannin driven CDO Cellar door only. with, “A great exhibition finish. Years to go yet! SO Sold out. of Australian shiraz $200 $N/A Price not available at time of printing. with one quality Rhone  Contact information pg 119 -120. example,” commented one judge. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under and NZ $25 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

158 TASTED 108 AWARDED PINOT NOIR Great to see that lighter colours are no longer the big issue that Chain of Ponds they were a few years ago. Winemakers are realising that varietal Section 400 character is more important than manufacturing a wine that doesn’t Adelaide Hills Pinot have this. Interestingly we see again that the value end offers fresh, Noir 2018 HHHH lively wines that have not been tinkered with, whilst at the top end Red and blue fruits burst generally winemakers know what they are doing which is reflected in from the nose. Firm red the wines. In between there is a variance in quality. berry palate with a hint of licorice. Still closed and yet to fully reveal itself! $20 PINOT NOIR Gapsted Wines Pertaringa Lakeside Mount Riley UNDER $20 Tobacco Road Adelaide Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot King Valley VBBAEULSYUTSE 2018 HHH Noir 2018 HHHH 11 TASTED Pinot Noir A leaner style with A tight, elegant, wine 7 AWARDED 2018 HHHH toasty cranberry nose evolving nicely with An earthy character to and spicy strawberry mushroom-like aromas Great results for the palate. $15 and inviting sweet fruit price. These might be and dusty oak flavours. lightweights but offer PINOT NOIR $20 NZ delicious quaffing. Some $20-$25 lovely fruit characters the nose and sustained Thornbury Central here. concentration of bright 20 TASTED Otago Pinot Noir wild strawberry flavours 14 AWARDED 2018 HHH1/2 Jacob’s Creek on the slippery smooth St Erth Geelong VBBAEULSYUTSE Savoury gamey aromas Reserve Adelaide A solid group of well Victoria Pinot mingle with blueberries Hills Pinot Noir palate. $16 balanced, well made, Noir 2018 HHHHH and cherries with bright 2018 HHHH1/2 restrained oak, wines. red cherry flavours laced A good food wine with Trentham Estate “It is not easy to make “Seriously stylish wine with acid. $24.99 aromatic pot-pourri/ Grown Murray great wines at this price for the price,” enthused Preece Yarra Valley red berry bouquet and Darling Pinot Noir point, however these one judge. Lovely Pinot Noir generous floral fruit 2017 HHHH were well made and concentration of spicy 2018 HHH1/2 flavours. “Good value A pleasant and showed elegance,” said red berries, cherries A rounded and wine that hits the spot,” uncomplicated pinot. one judge. and olives with a little of seamlessly balanced according to one judge. Light spicy lifted fruit everything nicely knitted pinot with the berry fruit $17.99 fragrances. Herbal together. $20 nicely integrated with flavours with tomato leaf the oak. $22 Curious Kiwi notes. $18 Paracombe Adelaide Rob Dolan Marlborough Pinot Hills Pinot Noir True Colours Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 The Fabulist Upper 2018 HHHH1/2 Yarra Valley Warm earthy aromas Goulburn Pinot Noir An attractive bright Pinot Noir spiked with licorice and 2017 HHH1/2 and breezy style with 2017 HHH1/2 spices and showing Perfumed bouquet lovely layers of varietal Attractive fragrant a decent oak lift. and attractive bright fruit and leafy herbal floral aromatics and a Palate has a degree aromatic/floral elements with good use solid, well developed of complexity and palate with a hint of of oak and showing nice and nicely integrated savouriness with good savouriness and nice mineral vein. $22 palate. $24 tannins. $10 acid spine. $12 Eight Carat Villa Maria Dry Grown GMH Adelaide Hills Cellar Selection McLaren Vale Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir 2018 HHH Noir 2017 HHHH 2018 HHH Light cordial-like Sweet cherry and Simple, delicious and aromas and sweet fruit strawberry fruit ready for drinking. Has flavours with a herbal characters here with confectionery fruit on edge. $15 slight mintiness, nice nose and palate. $20 savoury elements and “playful” tannins. $24.99 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 69

PINOT NOIR Theory of Evolution Singlefile Run Free Scarpantoni Estate Crittenden Shadowfax Winery South Australia Great Southern McLaren Vale Pinot Estate Peninsula Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Noir 2018 HHH Mornington Pinot Noir 2018 HHH 2018 HHHH1/2 Interesting earthy/leafy Peninsula Pinot Noir 2018 HHH Nice fruit profile here Pretty floral/pot-pourri- nose and lean herbal 2018 HHHH1/2 Vanilla and cherries on with the stalky herbal like bouquet layered with fruit flavours entwined “A lifted wine that the nose and a tight red elements tending to bright sweet red fruits with acid. $25 dances on your tongue currant palate that has a dominate. $20 and a fresh crunchy – a beauty,” was one tannic edge. $32 palate ripe with red fruits Centennial judge’s comment. Matahiwi Reserve and balanced by the oak Vineyards House Spicy savoury nose and Lawson’s Dry Wairarapa Pinot Noir and fine tannins. $25 Block Southern dainty herbal palate. Hills Reserve 2018 HHH Taylor Made Highlands Pinot Noir Still taut with years Marlborough Pinot A delicious, sappy and Adelaide Hills Pinot 2018 HHH ahead of it. $34 Noir 2017 HHH smart quaffer with Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 A lively number with Catalina Sounds Weighty red berry nose plenty of licorice/black Generous spicy vanilla very pretty raspberry-like Marlborough Pinot and big fruit palate with cherry characters. $21.99 aromas with cranberry fruit. Oak obvious for Noir 2017 HHHH lots of oak. Good style. nuances. Palate has now. $29 Intense oaky nose with $30 NZ Tamburlaine Single lots of layers of pretty minty red fruit notes. Vineyard Orange cranberry and red berry Portsea Estate Back Attractive, tight, tannic Sutherland Estate Pinot Noir fruits. “Very fresh with Beach Regional palate with good primary Yarra Valley Pinot 2018 HHH miles to go yet!” $25 Blend Mornington fruit and a hint of cedar Noir 2017 HHH The fruit dominates here Howard Park Peninsula Pinot Noir oak. $30 Evolving fast but still but there is also spicy Flint Rock 2018 HHH Lawson’s Dry shows sweet cherry oak apparent. “Fit for Great Southern Lots of everything; big Hills Reserve fruit, sweet oak and light purpose!” $22 Pinot Noir oak impact and generous Marlborough Pinot spiciness. $30 2018 HHHH1/2 ripe fruit. Developing Noir 2015 HHH1/2 Centennial “Precise and calculated nicely. $29.95 A bold and ripe wine PINOT NOIR Vineyards Bong with everything there,” with a big personality! $35-$40 Bong Southern said one judge. Boiled Peregrine Wines Plenty of savoury Highlands Pinot Noir lolly bouquet and nicely Saddleback Central characters. Quality is 25 TASTED 2018 HHH rounded palate full of red Otago Pinot Noir apparent. $30 NZ 16 AWARDED Interesting spicy cherry berry flavours. Needs 2017 HHH Boat O’Craigo nose and some nice fruit time to open up. $28 A serious wine - dark, Black Spur Yarra Some highlights here on the palate. Needs Akarua Rua Central smoky and savoury on Valley Pinot Noir across a wide range of time. $24 Otago Pinot Noir the nose with a nutty/ 2018 HHH vintages, but also some 2018 HHH1/2 savoury palate. $27 NZ Generous sweet red borderline wines and Giesen The Brothers Dusty black cherry berry fruit, pungent some disappointing Marlborough Pinot aromas and a juicy mid- Gilbert Orange herbal elements and wines. “Too many here Noir 2017 HHH weight fruit palate with Pinot Noir firm tannins. Will age lacked mid palate fruit Bold dark colour, lots of a long lingering smooth 2017 HHH well. $32 and generosity which spicy oak on the nose finish. $25 A solid restrained wine Mistletoe Reserve we should be seeing at and a lean and mean Marley Farm that delivers some nice Tumbarumba Pinot this price point.” “There palate. $22.99 Adelaide Hills Pinot sweet fruit and dusty Noir 2018 HHH is a question mark about Noir 2018 HHH1/2 oak. $28 Herbal pomegranate excess fruit cropping or PINOT NOIR Subtle leafy black cherry aromas and light palate vineyard immaturity or $25-$30 fragrances and upfront Eight Ranges with great fruit purity. both.” confectionery fruit Trail Rider Central Smart use of oak. $32 24 TASTED flavours with pleasant Otago Pinot Noir 13 AWARDED oak. $25 2018 HHH Allan Scott Estate Oaky nose with a pot- A very mixed class. Marlborough Pinot pourri-like lift and tasty “We have moved up in Noir 2018 HHH1/2 cherry flavours. $28.99 price but not in quality Nose is warm, oaky overall”, said one judge. and jubey with a lively PINOT NOIR “Lots of winemaker blackberry and red $30-$35 interference here which licorice palate laced with is not necessarily a good fine tannins. $26 NZ 17 TASTED thing.” However there Austins 6Ft6 9 AWARDED are still good wines in Geelong Pinot Noir this group. 2018 HHH A mixed group of wines. Pronounced raspberry/ cherry aromas and lively, Nanny Goat balanced, red currant Vineyard Central palate. $25 Otago Pinot Noir 2018 HHHHH A solid effort – it’s nicely rounded and very inviting. Deep red in colour with a purple edge, chocolate cherry aromas and a sophisticated, complex and well made palate. $30 70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Allan Scott Palliser Estate Babich Black Label Babich Family PINOT NOIR Scott Base Central Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Estates Organic $40-$50 Otago Pinot Noir Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 Noir 2018 HHHH Wairau Valley 2018 HHHHH Simple and delicious Tapenade-like savouriness Marlborough Pinot 24 TASTED “A restrained beauty.” with sweet cherry/berry to the strawberry nose. Noir 2018 HHH 20 AWARDED Subtle fruit aromas aromas edged with dried Light bodied palate with Finely structured wine A very good line-up with with some smart oak herbs. Well structured herbaceous red fruit with earthy blueberry general consistency sitting underneath. palate with Cherry Ripe flavours. Needs time. $NA characters and light across the board and Palate is bright, youthful flavours. Very young. Prancing Horse savouriness. $39.95 some high quality and fresh and full of Needs time. $35.95 Estate Pony Zonte’s Footstep results. raspberries, cherries and Mornington Dawn Patrol oak. $38 NZ Blind River Peninsula Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills Pinot La Villa Tower Block Pipers Brook Marlborough Pinot 2017 HHHH Noir 2017 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot Noir Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 A delicate balance of A herb garden of a nose 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 Nose is a lovely mix wild strawberry-like fruit, with a grippy palate “A progressive wine Intense cherry liqueur- of cranberry-like fruit some beets, a touch of and persistent fruit/oak with lots of life ahead like nose with very and dusty oak and has dusty leather and dried flavours. $35 of it,” commented one classy smoky savoury generous pinot flavours herbs. $35 Ceres Composition judge. Spicy perfumed nuances. Oak dominates drawn tight with fine Davishon Central Bannockburn nose and bright bold the palate for now with tannins. Grippy on the Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Noir chocolaty palate with cherry notes. Developing finish. Needs more time. 2013 HHHH 2017 HHH lovely fruits of the forest nice texture. $35 $35 NZ “A touch of class Restrained fruit characters. $48 Rob Dolan White here!” Nicely rounded and generous, well Label Yarra Valley wine. Prominent berry controlled, oak with Pinot Noir bouquet and pretty fruit aged characters 2017 HHHH1/2 flavours with “expertly” emerging. $39.95 Big, sweet and very blended oak. $35.95 NZ Below&Above generous style with Singlefile Single Single Vineyard inviting sweet red berry Vineyard Pemberton Pemberton Pinot fruit, red licorice notes Pinot Noir Noir 2015 HHH and loads of spicy oak. 2018 HHH1/2 A solid effort with “You can taste the Generous cherry berry herbal aromas and a pedgree!” said one fruit laced with a liberal spicy herbal flavour judge. $35 use of quality oak. “Lots profile. $35 to like here!” suggested Chateau Yaldara one judge. $35 Reserve Adelaide Foxey’s Hangout Hills Pinot Noir Mornington 2018 HHH Peninsula Attractive stemmy cherry Pinot Noir fruit and good level of 2018 HHH oak to balance. $35 A well made Nepenthe Pinnacle approachable pinot. Good Doctor Quiet at this stage just Adelaide Hills needs time. $38 Pinot Noir 2017 HHH Subtle cherry aromas and a pleasant, uncomplicated, cherry palate. $35 JUDGES Jeni Port Garry Baldwin Jusden Aumand Melbourne-based wine writer, Proprietor and wine Sourcing Manager - International author and experienced consultant for The Wines for Coles Liquor Group. wine judge. In 2014 she won Wine Network. WSET III advanced judge. Has Australian Wine Communicator Consultant for over also judged at the San Francisco of the Year and was named a twenty wineries Chronicle Wine Competition, Legend of the Melbourne Wine in most regions of Sonoma County and numerous and Food Festival. She has Australia. Regular other US shows. Assistant judged at many wine shows judge at capital city winemaker for 4½ years in in Australia and overseas and and regional wine Livermore Valley, California. travels annually to Germany to shows. Extensive travel in Italian and judge at MUNDUS VINI. French wine regions. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 71

PINOT NOIR La Villa Tasmania Bellarine Phil’s Austins Moorabool PINOT NOIR Shadowfax Winery Pinot Noir Bellarine Pinot Noir Valley Pinot Noir $50-$70 Little Hampton 2018 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH 2018 HHH Macedon Ranges Cordial sweet bouquet A pleasant complexity Delicate floral bouquet 17 TASTED Pinot Noir with traces of smoked of dark red fruit and and a light musky 13 AWARDED 2018 HHHH1/2 oyster-like notes. A oak aromas with palate with potpourri More consistency Fine grained smoky lovely natural balance of beetroot and rhubarb- characters. $45 across the board here oak lifts off the nose pristine sour cherry fruit like characters on the Clyde Park Estate with the better wines and mingles with wild flavours and excellent palate. $40 Geelong Pinot Noir showing good fruit strawberry-like fruit quality oak. $42 Merriworth Wines 2018 HHH weight. “And sensitive which flows through to Home Hill Estate Estate Tasmania Subdued spicy herbal winemaking,” noted the palate. Gorgeous Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir aromas and fresh one judge. mouthfeel. Interesting 2018 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH youthful palate. “Ready wine. $65 Lean and classy. The Generous lifted blue for a long journey!” $45 Marchand & Burch Paringa Estate nose is a herb garden fruit bouquet with a K1 by Geoff Hardy Mount Barrow Mornington of aromas with lovely very approachable Adelaide Hills Pinot Mount Barker (Great Peninsula weight and balance to stewed plum-like palate Noir 2018 HHH Southern) Pinot Noir Pinot Noir the sweet pomegranate with superb blends of Savoury nose with 2018 HHHHH 2017 HHHH1/2 of a palate. Quite an oak. $42 smoky notes and similar An engaging aromatic A very pretty berry nose astringent finish $45 Kuru Kuru Central characters echoed on complexity of cherries and a light bodied palate Otago Pinot Noir the palate. $45 and strawberries with fantastic luscious Portsea Estate 2017 HHHH Gilbert 777 Orange with subtle maturity red fruit flavours on the Single Vineyard A bright upfront fruit Pinot Noir beginning to show. The mid palate and has a Mornington driven style – “Quite 2017 HHH palate has lifted black strong chewy finish. $65 Peninsula Pinot Noir delicious” with Cherry Subtle dark mulberry fruits nicely integrated Villa Maria Single 2018 HHHH1/2 Ripe-like aromas and a fragrances and generous with the spicy oak. $60 Vineyard Southern A modern style with chunky pinot palate. $45 sweet fruit flavours. Has Villa Maria Single Clays Marlborough very pretty ripe blue Gilbert Barrel Select some age. $42 Vineyard Seddon Pinot Noir fruit nose and liberal Orange Pinot Noir Hickinbotham Marlborough Pinot 2017 HHHH use of new oak evident 2017 HHHH Of Dromana Noir 2015 HHHH1/2 A bright light style with on the spicy/licorice Nose is all earth, red Mornington Chocolaty blue fruit nice sweetness from palate. “Has years licorice and bracken Peninsula bouquet with a herbal the floral red fruit, dusty ahead of it.” $45 with red licorice and Pinot Noir lift. Pleasant varietal fruit herbal notes with oak Bream Creek fruits of the forest 2016 HHH characters on the palate playing a secondary Tasmania Pinot Noir flavours on a syrupy The oak plays a big role with delicate perfumed role. $59.99 2017 HHHH1/2 textured palate. $48 here with some bold lift and long lingering Foxey’s Hangout A deep red wine with Babich Winemaker’s black fruit characters. $48 finish. $59.99 Scotsworth Farm a bold dark spicy Reserve Ara Resolute Mornington cherry/oak bouquet. Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Peninsula The elegant, evolving, Pinot Noir Noir 2015 HHH Pinot Noir chocolaty palate has 2018 HHH1/2 A weighty oak driven 2018 HHHH light savouriness. “One Very aromatic – smells style that’s all chocolaty A balanced, clean and to watch!” $42 of spicy black cherries and spicy. $49.99 well made pinot with a with a delicate raspberry Eight Ranges very pretty musky/floral palate with light spicy Central Otago Pinot nose and light berry notes. $44.95 Noir 2017 HHH fruit on the elegant Crittenden Estate Nose is a rich compote palate. $65 Kangerong of black cherries and Foxey’s Hangout Mornington spices with good varietal Scotsworth Farm Peninsula Pinot Noir flavours. $45 Mornington 2018 HHH1/2 Villa Maria Reserve Peninsula Pinot Noir A subdued bouquet Marlborough Pinot 2017 HHHH and a mid-weight stalky Noir 2017 HHH “A really well made palate with earthy red Earthy fruit characters wine,” noted one judge. and black fruits in the on the nose and a tight It’s sweet and generous background. $45 palate with chewy and has some depth Peregrine Central tannins. $49.99 of savoury fruit. Good Otago Pinot Noir drinking now. $65 2016 HHH1/2 A luxuriously rich style with dark cherry aromas and a rich fruit-cake of a palate slightly masked by oak. $45 NZ 72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Rockcliffe Single PINOT NOIR Tarras Vineyards Clyde Park Clyde Park Site Great Southern $70+ The Canyon Single Single Block B2 Single Block D Pinot Noir Vineyard Central Geelong Pinot Noir Geelong Pinot Noir 2018 HHH1/2 20 TASTED Otago Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH 2015 HHH A restrained subtle nose 16 AWARDED 2016 HHHH1/2 A dark and mysterious A balanced, well and silky smooth palate. “Are these consumer Youthful colour and very aromatic nose with integrated, charmer Needs time for the wines or judges’ balanced aromatics. the oak apparent on with oak in the starring spicy berry fruit to be wines,” queried one of Retained freshness on the palate but there is role. $75 revealed. $60 the panel. At this price the cherry-like palate but ‘slippery’ fruit in the Giesen Single Foxey’s Hangout the judges expected starting to evolve earthy/ background. $75 Vineyard Clayvin Kentucky Road more, however the leathery secondary Rob Dolan Marlborough Pinot 777 Mornington quality across the characters. $70 Signature Series Noir 2014 HHH Peninsula board was very good. Ceres Artists Yarra Valley Pinot Perfect fruit/oak Pinot Noir “The best wines Collection Inlet Noir 2017 HHHH integration on both the 2018 HHH1/2 delivered perfumed, Bannockburn “Very high pedigree sultry nose and the Oak tending to dominate mid-palate sweetness Pinot Noir here!” Intriguingly nicely textured palate. for now with sweet and vibrancy.” 2016 HHHH1/2 complicated nose and $79.99 berry fruits pushing Home Hill Kelly’s A classy vibrant wine! sinewy stewed fruit Giesen Single through. Needs more Reserve Tasmania The nose exhibits forest flavours with slight Vineyard Ridge time to shine. $65 Pinot Noir floor and dried herb sweet/sour edge. $89 Block Marlborough Bream Creek 2018 HHHHH characters and has a Clyde Park Pinot Noir Reserve Tasmania “A serious, text book, warm generous palate Single Block D 2014 HHH Pinot Noir pinot noir,” commented with lingering red berry Geelong Pinot Noir Aromatics jump out of 2016 HHH1/2 one judge. Attractive and rhubarb flavours. 2016 HHHH the glass. “Hard to spit “A tight savoury pinot oak driven aromas and $78.95 A minty cool nose with this one out,” lamented that still holds much delicate sweet berry Portsea Estate a herbal thread and an one judge. $79.99 promise,” said one fruit flavours nicely Birthday Hill interesting leaner style judge. It’s pretty, integrated with the oak Single Vineyard of savoury palate. $75 complex and ageing and tannins. $75 MV6 Mornington Ceres Artists well. $65 Peninsula Collection Crittenden Estate Clyde Park Single Pinot Noir Black Rabbit The Zumma Block D Geelong 2018 HHHH Bannockburn Mornington Pinot Noir Very aromatic; smells like Pinot Noir Peninsula 2017 HHHH1/2 a flower garden! Has a 2016 HHHH Pinot Noir A restrained, layered, delicate palate with pretty A delicious, 2017 HHH gem! Medium red hues, floral flavours. Needs uncomplicated, very An attractive leafy pinot dusty cherry kernel time to open up. $70 drinkable wine with that rests on a delicate aromas, beautiful acid Clyde Park leafy/herbal aromas and edge. “It’s in for the long and attractive drying Single Block D a bright mouthful of fruit run!” $57 savoury characters Geelong Pinot Noir flavours. $78.95 Clos Henri across the palate. $75 2018 HHHH Tarras Vineyards Marlborough Pinot Dense red currant/ The Canyon Single Noir 2016 HHH cranberry bouquet with Vineyard Central Lean, green and leafy toasty oak that is echoed Otago Pinot Noir nose with similar on the fine edged 2014 HHH1/2 characters flowing onto palate. “Commercially Solid ripe spicy the palate. $57.99 attractive.” $75 fruit nose and well- Villa Maria Single Clyde Park structured palate with Vineyard The F College Block sweet/savoury fruit Attorney Organic Geelong Pinot Noir underpinned with Marlborough Pinot 2018 HHHH herbs. $85 Noir 2017 HHH A beautiful ripe style Prancing Horse Perfumed spicy varietal that’s an aromatic mix of Estate Single fruit characters with raspberry, black cherries, Vineyard Vegemite-like savoury licorice and spices. It’s Mornington elements. $69.99 young and fresh. $75 Peninsula Pinot Noir 2017 HHH A light lean pinot with delicate leafy red currant-like fruit. “An individual!” $75 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 73

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN NORTH-EAST VICTORIA CANADIAN LINKS topaques, Rutherglen and neighbouring seeking out boutique operations like John Wahgunyah are also gaining increasing Gehrig Wines, Scion and Valhalla. TEWKSBURY Lodge, built in the style of a attention for the quality of their table wines. Canadian style log cabin, is located just One of the star winery restaurants is outside Bright and is an ideal base from Rutherglen is about 280km from Melbourne the delightful Jones Winery Cafe (www. which to explore the Victorian High Country. and there are about 20 wineries in all, with joneswinery.com.au). several branching out stylistically into The lodge is set amid 1.5ha of secluded alternative grape varieties. Jones recently announced that its cellar gardens with Ovens River frontage and door is now open for tastings daily, Monday to views to Mt Buffalo. The Murray to Mountains The Rutherglen Wine Experience Visitor Friday 10am-4pm and Saturday and Sunday Rail Trail passes the front of the property. Information Centre has a display of the 10am-5pm. Jones Winery Restaurant is town’s rich history and offers regional open for lunch Thursday-Sunday. Tewksbury Lodge sleeps five people tourism information. and is fully self-contained, with kitchen There is also a food and wine pairing, A and laundry. There are two bedrooms. One of the more interesting ways of Sensory Delight, available every day until The master has a king-sized double bed. exploring is the Wahgunyah to Rutherglen sold out for $15 per person. The second bedroom has a queen-sized extension of the Murray to Mountains Rail double bed and a fold out single, making Trail, enabling cyclists to ride the sealed This tasting pairs wines from Jones Winery it ideal for a couple, two couples travelling path from the banks of the Murray to historic & Vineyard with morsels from the restaurant. together or families. Rutherglen. The 9km trail travels through the Matches are devised by winemaker Mandy heart of the wine region. Jones and chef Briony Bradford. The lodge is within walking distance to local shops, wineries and ski hire and The vinous history here dates to the There is no shortage of tourist within a one-hour drive of the ski resorts of 1850s gold rush. Pioneering Chambers accommodation in Rutherglen, ranging Falls Creek, Mount Hotham, Dinner Plain Rosewood, the oldest winery in the region, from high end B&Bs like La Maison St and Mount Buffalo. was established in 1858; Morris, the biggest Arnaud to camping. Among the most Tewksbury Lodge, 6876 Great Alpine Rd, producer, in 1859; All Saints in 1864; and central accommodation is long-time Porepunkah, Victoria; visit tewksburylodge. Campbells, now being run by the fourth- favourite Tuileries, a luxury hotel next door com.au. generation of the family, in 1870. to the Rutherglen Estates cellar door. With its own on-site restaurant, tennis court, GLOBAL REPUTATION There is a glorious aroma that greets you swimming pool and free wifi it is hugely when you enter any of the cellars of the great popular and it pays to book in advance to RUTHERGLEN is a small town in north- fortified producers. It’s the smell of treacle, be sure of accommodation. east Victoria with a global reputation for butterscotch and oak emanating from wines, its fortified wines. many of them decades old, maturing in For somewhere a little bit offbeat, consider casks or giant oak barrels. Mount Ophir Estate (www.mountophirestate. In addition to being the traditional home c o m . a u ) , w h e re T h e To w e r o ff e r s of Australia’s great port styles, muscats and At Pfeiffer you can enjoy a glass of wine airconditioned rooms with free wifi. on the Sunday Creek Bridge and gaze down at the lazy turtles below. All Saints is a heritage-listed estate run by the fourth-generation of the Brown family. Tastings are conducted in an atmospheric old chateau. At Buller Wines, now owned by local couple Gerald and Mary Judd, the facilities and wines are being returned to past glories. It is home to the Ripe at Buller eatery. In addition to the big names, it is worth 74 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

travelbriefs BREWS IN THE HIGH COUNTRY ALPINE ELEGANCE Good Food Guide two-hat eatery for nine straight years and Ryan cooks WITH eight breweries, Victoria’s High LOOKING for a resort with Alpine charm? contemporary food with a local and Country Brewery Trail is a scenic journey Ramada Resort Dinner Plain boasts seasonal accent. from mountains to rivers, hamlets to charming country towns. mountain charm and rustic elegance Ryan regularly visits Japan and uses and provides the perfect alpine base Japanese techniques and flavours in his Visitors get the chance to see close up to combine wilderness adventures with cooking. Dishes have a Japanese leaning where several of Australia’s best craft food and wine. with ingredients such as dashi, sake, beers are brewed and learn what goes into seaweed and wasabi, and techniques creating a unique beer. Dinner Plain is located only 10km from the such as Japanese pickling, tsukudani highest point of The Great Alpine Road, a (preserving in soy and sugar) and curing Many of the breweries on the trail have popular route for touring and road biking. seafood in seaweed. relaxing outdoor areas and most offer menus featuring food that matches In the summer, enjoy the alpine trails on To start, think amuse bouches like house- perfectly with a lager, ale, stout or sour. bike, foot or horse ride. There is a range of made silken tofu with mustard greens, trails for all abilities including the famous sesame and bonito, or grilled dried squid The beauty of the Brewery Trail is that Razorback walk to climb Mount Feathertop, with kewpie mayonnaise. Starters may visitors can set their own pace. Visit a Victoria’s second-highest mountain. include blue mackerel sashimi or Eugowra handful over a day, fill out an action- quail with pickled radishes and orange salt. packed weekend, or spread out your visits In the winter months Dinner Plain Mains range from roasted duck breast with over a week. transforms into a lively alpine village with brown rice congee to Myhree goat with a range of venues, beginner downhill ski fennel, eggplant and grains. All dishes You are in the country, so it is worth run, night skiing, cross country trails, and set menus can be matched with wines. calling ahead to check opening hours and sled dog rides and snowshoeing and for to make a booking for tours. a little relaxation indulge at the Onsen The Provenance has four separate luxury Retreat and Spa. suites located in the private courtyard The inclusion of King River Brewing in garden at the back of the property, in what the King Valley brings the trail membership Dinner Plain is 10km from Australia’s was once the old stables and carriage up to eight. The others are Black Dog leading ski resort Mount Hotham and house, so you can even sleep where you Brewery in Taminick, Blizzard Brewery Mount Hotham Airport. Ramada Resort eat. Visit theprovenance.com.au. in Dinner Plain, Bridge Road Brewers in by Wyndham, 12 Big Muster Drive, Dinner Beechworth, Bright Brewery, Rutherglen Plain, Victoria; visit wyndhamhotels.com/ Opposite page top left: Tewksbury Lodge cabin. Brewery, Social Bandit Brewing Company ramada/dinner-plain-australia/ramada- Opposite page top right: Wine tasting at Jones Rutherglen. in Mansfield and Sweetwater Brewing resort-dinner-plain-mt-hotham/overview. Opposite page bottom: Interior of La Maison St Arnaud. Company in Mount Beauty. Top: Ramada Dinner Plain. Middle left: High Country JAPANESE INFLUENCES Bridge Road Brewers. Top right: Michael Ryan, The Provenance Beechworth. THE Provenance, the restaurant of star chef Michael Ryan, is a de rigueur stop for gourmets visiting the north-east of Victoria. Located in the centre of the historic town of Beechworth, the restaurant is situated in a building that was once the Bank of Australia and dates back to 1856. The grand building dates back to the gold rush era and the former bank vault is now the wine cellar. The Provenance has been a The Age September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 75

NORTH EAST VICTORIA 93 TASTED 89 AWARDED NORTH-EAST VICTORIA A very high strike rate in this northern Victorian region, showing great Scion Rutherglen consistency. Those in the know applaud the world class fortified Viognier wines of Rutherglen but it’s also great to see a variety of flavoursome 2018 HHHH1/2 wines from the “floor” and elegant wines from the Alpine Valley. Deep straw colour and a complexity of spices and ginger aromas with a delicate apricot lift. Rich fruit characters on the palate well balanced with the acidity. 3-5 $32 SPARKLING Gapsted Wines High OTHER Warner Vineyard The Country King Valley DRY WHITE Rest Beechworth 5 TASTED Prosecco NV HHHH VARIETALS & Marsanne A riper fruit bouquet BLENDS 2018 HHHH1/2 5 AWARDED showing some Lifted marmalade-like complexity developing. 14 TASTED aromas with an oily A solid and consistent Lovely citrus fruit 14 AWARDED palate rich with honeyed class of sparklings. expression on the well fruit flavours and nicely Different styles – but all balanced palate. $20 These wines show integrated with the good! Brown Brothers the strong diversity oak. Drinking well now. King Valley Prosecco of the region - from Brown Brothers NV HHH1/2 Rutherglen to King 3-5 $33 A citrus nose with a Valley and Beechworth Patricia King Valley sweet brioche-like lift. to Alpine Valley. Warner Vineyard Warner Vineyard Sparkling Pinot Noir Fine fresh fruit flavours Beechworth Beechworth Chardonnay laced with toasty Rutherglen Estates Roussanne Marsanne 2012 HHHHH notes. Very quaffable. Renaissance Marsanne Chardonnay Delicate toasty/brioche $17.90 Rutherglen 2016 HHHHH 2015 HHHH1/2 notes to the creamy Andrew Buller Wines Viognier Roussanne Complex aromas – a A mingling of oak and nose. A fine bead and Traditional Method Marsanne meaty, smoky, barnyardy citrus/stonefruit aromas. good persistence of Old Vine Rutherglen 2017 HHHHH mix. Excellent rich Lovely delicate floral fruit citrus and fresh apple Sparkling Shiraz Straw coloured wine full flavoured palate flavours dominate the flavours balanced with NV HHH1/2 with green hues and with interesting palate. Good acid drive. good acidity. 3-5 Rich ripe chocolaty a delicate bouquet savoury/barrel ferment Ageing gracefully. $30 $56 bouquet and a ‘rustic’ of apricot, citrus and characters and smoky palate with loads of spices. A long tight oak. 3-5 $33 Gapsted Wines complex flavours and palate with great oak/ Rutherglen Estates Gapsted Wines Tobacco Road King balancing tannins. $35 fruit balance and viscous Rutherglen Arneis Ballerina Canopy Valley Prosecco mouthfeel. $32 2018 HHHH1/2 King Valley NV HHHH Nose is a savoury mix Sauvignon Blanc Zesty fresh citrus of pears and almonds. 2019 HHHH aromas and light palate Nicely textured palate Gooseberry bouquet with nice mousse and with lovely fruit weight with a grassy lift and upfront fruit sweetness and complex flavours. good varietal definition all nicely supported by It has great depth and on the zippy fresh palate crisp acidity. $16 length. $24 with nice acid drive. 3-5 $25 JUDGES Mark Scalzo Nick Brown Andrew Buller Senior Winemaker Director and winemaker Owner/Winemaker at Andrew at Rutherglen for All Saints Estate, Buller Wines, with a Cellar Door Estates. Previously St Leonards Vineyard at historic Cannobie. Formerly worked as and Mount Ophir Winery (Cellar) Door Manager at winemaker for Estate. Has a degree RL Buller and Sons Rutherglen. Brown Brothers in Oenology from the Has experienced vintages Milawa Vineyard. Adelaide University. Has in France, Portugal and New vintaged in France and Zealand, and was an associate has worked in wineries Judge at the Melbourne and in the Adelaide Hills and Rutherglen wine shows. the Margaret River. 76 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

regional tasting Feathertop Alpine Feathertop Alpine Goldman Wines Serengale Valleys Fiano Valleys Vermentino Alpine Valleys Beechworth Rosé 2018 HHHH 2018 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2017 HHHH1/2 Straw-like wine with Warm stonefruit nose 2017 HHHH1/2 Preserved cherry-like green hues, savoury and full flavoured palate. “A seductive wine,” aromas with interesting profile to the nose and a Good expression of noted one judge. aged notes. The complex citrus driven palate. Nice melon fruit flavours with Lovely green hues full flavoured palate tannin structure. Good a citrus edge. $25 with an aromatic nutty that has good weight food wine. $25 peach bouquet and of strawberry-like fruit Brown Brothers lovely rich, full on, fruit characters. $28 All Saints Estate Limited Release interest on the long Rutherglen King Valley Albarino palate. 3-5 $40 Scion Rutherglen Marsanne 2018 HHH Durif Rosé 2018 HHHH Delicate citrus lift to the Piano Piano 2019 HHHH Gapsted Wines High An interesting alluring fruity nose and lovely Wines Sophie’s A light and refreshing Country King Valley spicy citrus nose and length of citrus/lemon Block Beechworth style with delicate Tempranillo light, tight, delicate flavours. $22.90 Chardonnay perfumed strawberry 2018 HHHH1/2 and well balanced 2017 HHHH1/2 bouquet and enticing Vibrant red wine true-to- palate with obvious oak Michelini Alpine The nose is an aromatic palate with style. Has a spicy cherry influence. $26 Valleys Pinot Grigio integrated complexity of crisp acidity. $28 and red berry bouquet. Warner Vineyard 2018 HHH strawberries and cream. Good balance between The Rest Pretty stonefruit Very good balance of Gapsted Wines plum-like. $20 Beechworth fragrances and a citrus oak and fruit on the Tobacco Road King Roussanne driven palate showing palate with nice honeyed Valley Sangiovese 2015 HHHH some nice texture. $25 overtones. $42 Rosé 2018 HHH1/2 Golden wine with ripe A good quaffer – smells fruit bouquet and nicely CHARDONNAY Warner Vineyard of strawberries and Michelini Alpine textured palate full of The Rest cream with crunchy Valleys Marzemino lychee-like fruit flavours 7 TASTED Beechworth crisp strawberry/cherry 2016 HHHH1/2 with delicate use of 6 AWARDED Chardonnay flavours. $16 A soft, very drinkable oak. $33 2018 HHH1/2 style, intense purple in Feathertop Gris de A strong class with A soft delicate style Brown Brothers colour with rich spicy Gris Alpine Valleys the Beechworth region with everything 1889 King Valley aromas and silky smooth Pinot Gris performing the best. smoothly merged Dry Rosé palate with excellent tight 2018 HHH1/2 together. Attractive 2018 HHH1/2 tannin structure. $25 An interesting and well slightly oily mouthfeel. Pretty spicy fruit made wine with a sweet fragrances and a floral fruit nose and a 3-5 $40 refreshing, well surprisingly creamy balanced, fruit palate palate. $25 Gapsted Wines with nice tannin Ballerina Canopy “crunch”. $18.90 King Valley Chardonnay Weathercraft 2018 HHH Single Vineyard Dried herb bouquet and Beechworth Shiraz a complex, textured, Rosé 2018 HHH Warrabilla Reserve Rich warm fruit North East Victoria palate with great fruit driven aromas and Grenache length. 3-5 $25 confectionery sweet strawberry flavours. $27 2018 HHHH Spicy confectionery Goldman Wines OTHER RED cherry nose and lovely Alpine Valleys VARIETALS & lifted raisin flavours on Chardonnay BLENDS the juicy palate. “Very 2018 HHH drinkable,” said one Creamy stonefruit 14 TASTED judge. 3-5 $27 fragrances and tight 13 AWARDED acid driven citrus palate. Rutherglen Estates Needs time. $35 A very strong, Rutherglen consistent class with Tempranillo Serengale ROSÉ good results from 2017 HHHH Beechworth various varietals and Dark berries and spices Chardonnay 5 TASTED various blends right lift off the nose and across the board berries fill the mouth 5 AWARDED and especially good with flavour with soft, results from the Italian well integrated, tannins. 2017 HHHHH “Exciting class!” said varietals. Aromas of vanilla, one judge. “Good 3-5 $24 melons and stonefruits colour, good vibrancy all knitted together and good flavours from nicely. The viscous a multitude of varieties.” palate is rich with lovely varietal flavours and barrel ferment characters with fine acidity. 5+ $46 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 77

NORTH EAST VICTORIA Morris GSM Morris Blue Imperial Piano Piano Wines Warner Vineyard CABERNET Rutherglen Rutherglen Cinsault Henry’s Block The Rest SAUVIGNON & Grenache Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Beechworth Shiraz Beechworth Shiraz MERLOT Mourvedre Lovely old world style. 2016 HHHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 2017 HHHH Nice oaky lift to the Subtle fruit aromas with Lovely cool climate wine 6 TASTED Strawberry bouquet with berry bouquet. Big, soft, chocolaty elements and that’s ageing well. Spicy 6 AWARDED savoury elements. Big sweet and oaky in the ripe red berry palate, red berry bouquet with and soft in the mouth mouth. 3-5 $25 well integrated oak and good density of minty Good results here from and tasting of plums silky smooth tannins floral flavours. $36 both the merlots and with nice drying tannins. Brown Brothers with nice dash of cabernets. Limited Release pepper. 5+ $42 Morris Rutherglen 3-5 $25 King Valley Gamay Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Lovely aged shiraz. Dried Star Lane Winery Vibrant cherry aromatics Rutherglen Estates fruit-like aromas with Beechworth and a lean, spicy and Renaissance rich dark berries filling Nebbiolo green lightweight palate. Rutherglen Shiraz the mouth with flavour. 2009 HHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 Aged licoricey/leathery 3-5 $22.90 Nose is earthy and 5+ $25 aromas with mature chocolaty with slight flavours on a soft and Morrisons of barnyard notes. Star Lane Winery very approachable palate Glenrowan Excellent floral plum Cantare Beechworth with lingering tannins. Glenrowan flavours with a meaty Shiraz Sangiovese Tempranillo edge and soft, well 2017 HHH 3-5 $NA 2018 HHH integrated, tannins. $50 Spicy/meaty nose with Gapsted Wines Oak dominates the Brown Brothers dense fruit flavours and Tobacco Road King peppery licorice nose King Valley Shiraz firm tannins. 3-5 Valley Pinot Noir and has intense licorice Mondeuse Cabernet $NA 2018 HHH1/2 flavours. 3-5 $24 2015 HHHH1/2 A gamey nose spiked Almost black in colour Star Lane Winery with herbs and cherries. Star Lane Winery with subtle but intense Beechworth Shiraz Good savoury cherry Beechworth blackberry aromas. 2017 HHH definition on medium Sangiovese Dark fruit complexity Dark chocolaty aromas weight palate. 3-5 2017 HHH on the palate with great and sound fruit profile $16 Aged spicy cherry tannins. “Unique style – on a long palate. $NA nose and a chocolaty will age well!” $80 palate with good tannin Scion Rutherglen structure. $NA Warrabilla Parola’s Syrah 2017 HHH Cool climate style with Michelini Alpine Limited Release a green edge to the Serengale Valleys Teroldego North East Victoria chocolaty nose and spicy Beechworth 2016 HHH Shiraz 2018 HHHH plum flavours. $36 Merlot Cabernet Meaty/Cherry Ripe Bright red wine with Sauvignon aromas and intense delicate sweet oak Weathercraft 2016 HHHHH perfumed flavours with aromatics and a very Single Vineyard Attractive dusty cassis crisp acid spine. $25 young “punchy” sweet Beechworth Shiraz aromas with dark berry blackberry palate with fine 2017 HHH nuances. Well put tannins and good line of Oak dominated nose together palate with lovely SHIRAZ & acid. 5+ $35 with delicate spicy, sweet fruit flavours, fine BLENDS green edged, raspberry acidity and the tannins Morrisons of flavours. $38 kept nicely in check. $46 16 TASTED Glenrowan Family Reserve Glenrowan Weathercraft Single Piano Piano 15 AWARDED Shiraz 2017 HHHH Vineyard Limited Wines Reserve Lifted raspberry bouquet Beechworth Shiraz Beechworth Merlot Morrisons of Solid diverse group with slight green herbal 2017 HHH 2017 HHHH1/2 Glenrowan of wines. Different edge and soft well Delicate red fruit Dense fruit fragrances Glenrowan Primitivo climates on show rounded blackberry aromatics and sweet threaded with vanilla 2017 HHH1/2 here ranging from the palate with a menthol fruit flavours with nice oak. Palate has lovely Ruby red wine with a valleys to the hills with edge and some tarry acid/tannin balance. $42 elegance and a delicacy very herbal nose and each area having its notes. $30 of interesting ‘dark’ juicy sweet minty fruit champions. Andrew Buller oaky flavours with grainy flavours and soft tannins. Goldman Wines Wines Cannobie tannins. $35 Warrabilla Alpine Valleys Shiraz Rutherglen Shiraz 3-5 $22 Single Vineyard 2017 HHH1/2 2016 HHH Gapsted Wines High Rutherglen Shiraz Dark red wine with Stewed fruit fragrances Country King Valley 2017 HHHH1/2 subdued jubey and very ripe sweet fruit Cabernet Sauvignon The nose is a fragrant aromatics. Big and flavours. Good line of 2017 HHHH mix of spices, chocolate rich in the mouth with acid and tannins. $25 Slight herbaceous and red berries. Great slightly green tannins. characters to the nose. concentration of Great floral fruit palate blackberry fruit flavours 5+ $35 with spicy/peppery edge nicely integrated with the oak and savoury and very fine tannin tannins. $32 structure. 5+ $20 78 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

regional tasting Star Lane Winery Andrew Buller SWEET & Morris Premium Andrew Buller Beechworth Merlot Wines Cannobie FORTIFIED Rare Rutherglen Wines Cannobie 2016 HHHH Rutherglen Durif Topaque NV HHHHH Rutherglen Muscat “A serious wine.” A spicy 2016 HHHH1/2 18 TASTED Beautifully aged wine NV HHHH cherry/berry bouquet Earthy confectionery 18 AWARDED with amazing prune-like Complex toasty rancio/ with flavours of ripe fruit fragrances with a aromas and incredibly raisin bouquet. Intense dark plums and some spicy oak lift. Generous “We say it again and intense and voluptuous and luscious toffee/ astringent tannins. palate ripe with sweet again,” agreed the concentration of caramel flavours and fruit and oak. Nice soft judges. “These are delicious rancio/toffee developing some age. $29 5+ $NA tannins and good acid world class wines.” “If flavours. $90 Andrew Buller line. 5+ $25 you don’t want to fork Morris Rutherglen Wines Cannobie Serengale out the high prices at Classic Muscat Rutherglen Tawny Beechworth Merlot Scion Rutherglen the pointy end of this NV HHHH1/2 NV HHHH 2017 HHH1/2 Durif 2016 HHHH1/2 category then check A richness of caramel/ Aromas of dark Highly perfumed Dense and chocolaty on out the classic muscats toffee aromas with chocolate with burnt fruit aromas and very the nose with a delicate and tokays that offer stewed fruit-like orange characters. flavoursome cherry floral/violet-like lift. great drinking for great nuances. Amazing Velvety smooth palate palate with well Rich licorice/prune hit value,” suggested one palate; luscious and with very ripe, very integrated tannins. of flavours with mouth judge. velvety smooth with sweet fruit. Different coating tannins and fine flavours of caramel and style! $29 5+ $32 acid support. 5+ Morris Rutherglen raisins. $25 Morris Rutherglen $38 Grand Tawny Brown Brothers Classic Topaque Morris Rutherglen NV HHHHH Patricia King NV HHHH Basket Press Rutherglen Estates Dark amber hues with Valley Noble Complex caramel toffee Cabernet Renaissance intense rancio characters Riesling (375ml) nose with intense 2015 HHHH Rutherglen Durif on the burnt caramel-like 2014 HHHH1/2 rancio complexity on A lovely bouquet of fruit 2015 HHHH1/2 nose. Complex palate Nose is a gorgeous the palate. Great flavour – blackcurrants, plums A lovely purple wine with fantastic rancio and complexity of depth and refreshing and berries and a long with delicate aromatics viscosity. Sweet mid- marmalade, apricots and acidity. $50 oak driven palate with of plums and spices. palate. Great tannins. honey. Beautifully rich, Morris Mia Aged hints of cassis fruit. $25 Lush palate offers Good oak. $50 luscious, lipsmaking Ambre Rutherglen integrated mouthful of ripe fruit flavours with Apera NV HHHH1/2 DURIF & dark fruits and sweet Morris Rutherglen cleansing acidity. $45 Lovely aged apera with BLENDS oak intensity. Ageing Grand Topaque Morris Black Label nutty caramel aromas well. 5+ $50 NV HHHHH Rutherglen Muscat and a very complex 8 TASTED Deep dark brown NV HHHH palate – it’s rich and 8 AWARDED Morris CHM hues with an intense Light amber tones with sweet with lovely Rutherglen Durif complexity of raisined fresh lifted raisin/muscat level of crisp acidity to Great results as 2013 HHHH1/2 rancio characters and bouquet and a delicate balance it. $50 expected from this Sweet oak and slightly amazing depth and fresh floral/rose petal Morris Rutherglen iconic wine of the stewed fruit characters weight of lingering flavour profile. $20 Vintage Port Rutherglen region. leap out of the glass. The lipsmaking raisin-like All Saints Estate 2007 HHHH palate is rich with dark flavours. $50 Rutherglen Muscat Brooding chocolaty Gapsted Wines fruits edged with violets, NV HHHH fruit cake of a nose. Ballerina Canopy sweet oak and drying Morris Rutherglen Some oak influence Great palate, very Alpine Valleys Durif tannins. 5+ $60 Grand Muscat obvious on the spicy Portuguese in style, 2017 HHHH1/2 NV HHHHH raisin nose with a with good integration Dark purple wine with Warrabilla North Intense brooding young floral fruit palate of the spirit. $25 dense licorice aromas East Victoria Durif bouquet of ripe stewed that has a high level of Andrew Buller and generous palate 2018 HHHH fruits and burnt toffee acidity. $25 Wines Cannobie with excellent length Young fruit aromas with with slight rancio notes. Morris Rutherglen Rutherglen Tokay and intensity of sweet a violet-like lift. Super The dense inky palate Classic Tawny NV HHH1/2 dark plum flavours. concentrated, ripe plum has well integrated NV HHHH Lovely burnt caramel/ Nicely rounded tannins. fruit flavours with soft spirit and some rancio Chocolaty bouquet toffee bouquet and tannins. Loads of flavour. beginning. $50 with fresh vanilla oak very sweet dark toffee 5+ $31 nuances. Great mocha flavours with balancing 5+ $27 Morris Premium complexity on the palate acidity. $29 Rutherglen Estates Rutherglen Rare with burnt caramel-like Morris Black Label Rutherglen Durif All Saints Estate Muscat NV HHHHH aged. $25 Rutherglen 2016 HHHH1/2 Rutherglen Durif “World class!” enthused Morris Mia Pale Flor Tawny NV HHH The nose is dense, 2016 HHH one judge. Brooding Rutherglen Apera A sweet uncomplicated earthy and chocolaty A ripe, balanced, treacle intensity to the NV HHHH style with a spirity rancio with powerful flow of gathering of red berry nose and very thick and Delicate nutty flor nose and soft and fruity rich varietal fruit across fruits, licorice and luscious in the mouth characters to the nose. in the mouth. $16.50 the palate. Drying spices. $32 with incredibly long Gentle creamy palate tannins. “Screaming for lingering flavours. Good with lovely flavour slow cooked lamb,” said oak. $90 profile and long drying one judge. $24 finish. $25 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 79

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING 132 TASTED 83 AWARDED CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING A most interesting tasting of local and imported bubblies. What Gapsted Wines came out of it was that at the lower value level categories fresh Tobacco Road King is best, whilst at the pointy upper end aged wines give extra Valley Prosecco complexity and sometimes surprisingly good value for the extra NV HHH1/2 money. A lovely fresh and delicate wine with good intensity of green apple characters and some mineral elements. $16 Trentham VBBAEULSYUTSE Estate The PROSECCO Family Murray Darling Prosecco 15 TASTED NV HHH 11 AWARDED A pretty fruity nose – quite tropical with a A solid class of easy crisp and zippy fresh drinking wines with a palate. $16 good representation of Italian samples. Good to Sorriso King Valley Andreola Verv Extra see the comparison with Prosecco NV HHH Dry DOC Treviso, the Aussie wines which Developed nutty Italy Prosecco showed freshness while honeyed aromas and NV HHH the Italian wines had a sweet and creamy Subtly perfumed touch more complexity. in the mouth. $19 nose with good acid/ sweetness balance to Preece King Valley the citrussy palate. $25 Prosecco NV HHH Muted almond bouquet Montegrande Asolo and slightly austere, but Prosecco DOC attractive, sweet pear NV HHH flavours. $20 Toast nutty honeyed bouquet and fine Gapsted Wines High Zonte’s Footstep Cornaro Asolo developed and well Country King Valley Bolle Felici Fleurieu Prosecco DOC balanced palate. $26.95 Prosecco NV HHHH Prosecco NV HHHH NV HHH Attractive citrusy aromas A flinty complexity Savoury nose with a Andreola Dirupo and a clean fresh and of pungent, grapey herbal edge and quite Superiore DOCG long lingering palate fragrances with hints a complex, sweet Valdobbiadene, Italy showing some delicacy of pears and a fruity and developed palate. Prosecco NV HHH of fruit and a hint of sweet palate with zippy $24.95 Citrussy aromatic texture. $20 acidity. $22 complexity, creamy in the mouth and finishing JUDGES dry. $35 Luke Mallaby Natalie Cleghorn Duane Coates Winemaker for Treasury Winemaker with the Winemaker for Coates Wine Estates. With 14 years Yalumba Wine Co since Wines. Duane has a experience in the industry 1998. Associate judge Masters of Oenology and five years experience as at the Barossa Wine from Adelaide University a winemaker. Has vintaged Show, Stanthorpe and has gained overseas in Santa Barbara, California Small Winemakers and winemaking experience and Rheinhessen Germany, Adelaide wine show. in Burgundy, the as well as several regions Northern Rhone Valley in Australia. Has a Bachelor regions in France, and in Wine Science and the Douro Valley in Viticulture. Portugal. 80 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting Andreola Koonara Wines Grounded Cru Leura Park Estate Sesto Senso Guardian Angel Adelaide Hills Grande Vintage Superiore DOCG Mount Gambier Sparkling Geelong Blanc de Valdobbiadene, Italy Sparkling Pinot Noir Blanc 2018 HHH1/2 Prosecco NV HHH Chardonnay Chardonnay Nice balance of aged Lifted perfumed 2019 HHH NV HHH1/2 and fresh aromas. Silky fragrances with nice Floral sherbety nose and Smells of strawberries palate has moderate palate weight and length a very appealing fresh, and cream and has sweetness with savoury with good grip and primary fruit, palate. delicate and intensely undertones. $35 texture. $45 $24.95 creamy cherry edged Blue Pyrenees flavours. $27 Midnight Cuvée SPARKLING SPARKLING Pyrenees UNDER $25 NV $25-$40 Clover Hill Cuvee Chardonnay Cuvée Tasmania Sparkling 2015 HHH1/2 11 TASTED 16 TASTED Chardonnay Pinot Subtle smokiness to the 5 AWARDED 6 AWARDED Noir Pinot Meunier nose with crisp citrussy Generally the judges NV HHH1/2 notes to the complex The judges noted there were disappointed with Nose has floral/honeyed Pemberley flavour profile. $36 was a number of over this flight. Although complexity and good Lustre Methode Taltarni Brut aged and faulty wines there were a few good balance to palate Traditionelle Pyrenees Sparkling here. “Some were examples here there showing some age and Pemberton Chardonnay Pinot too sweet and others were also, “Too many sweetness. $34 Sparkling Pinot Noir Noir Pinot Meunier too dry resulting in simplistic wines for Chardonnay 2014 HHH1/2 unbalanced wines,” said the price with a lack of Allan Scott Cecilia 2015 HHHHH Lovely complexity here one judge. Those fresher clarity and precision,” Brut Methode Intense nutty/flinty/ with plenty of secondary well-balanced wines noted one judge. “Some Traditionnelle nougat complexity on notes and smoky/ offered good drinking. were fresh and non- Marlborough Pinot the nose and lovely yeasty persistence and descript others aged and Noir Chardonnay creamy citrus and intensity. $26 Whispers South showing minor faults.” Brut NV HHH stonefruit flavours Old Kent River Eastern Australia Nose has a nice varietal on the long and well- Diamondtina Sparkling White Centennial lift with fresh pear/apple structured palate that Frankland River NV HHH Vineyards Brut flavours. $26 exhibits great mouth- Sparkling Pinot Subtle, slight hessian- Traditionelle watering acidity. $35 Noir Chardonnay like aromas and a nicely Southern Highlands Swings & Bird in Hand 2016 HHH balanced pear/pineapple Sparkling Pinot Noir Roundabouts Adelaide Hills Honeyed biscuity palate. $5 Chardonnay Margaret River Sparkling Pinot Noir bouquet with layers Pinot Meunier Sparkling NV HHH 2019 HHHH of fruit and flavours Hoggies Estate NV HHHH1/2 Flinty lemon sherbet Nose has a youthful of sweet limes and Coonawarra Robust honeycomb/fruit fragrances and attractive strawberry and cream apples. $35 Sparkling VBBAEULSYUTSE nose. “Could smell this all aperitif style palate. $26 sweetness. The pretty Gooree Park Chardonnay day,” enthused one judge. palate is fresh, lively and Mudgee Sparkling Pinot Noir NV HHH Lovely combination of Wills Domain Cuvée fruity. Very appealing Chardonnay Pinot An attractive creamy freshness and complexity d’Elevage Margaret style. $25 Noir 2017 HHH nutty style with grilled on the palate with lots of River Sparkling Hollick Estates Citrussy fruit style still peach and honeyed aged notes. $35 Chardonnay Pinot Coonawarra fresh and just starting elements. $14.99 Noir NV HHH Sparkling to develop some Blue cheese-like Chardonnay Pinot complexity. $28 Patrick of complexity to the nose Noir 2016 HHHH Jack Rabbit Single Coonawarra Mother and a precise lemony Red apple aromas with Vineyard Geelong of Pearl Coonawarra palate. $39 savoury notes. Soft in Blanc de Blanc Sparkling the mouth with a good 2017 HHH Chardonnay SPARKLING balance of fresh fruits Still quite tight Pinot Noir NV HHH VINTAGE and aged elements. $35 and youthful but A big complex style $25-$40 Forester Estate evolving honey/nutty that’s ageing well and Georgette Margaret complexity. $35 has nice creaminess. 21 TASTED River Sparkling Brut Villa Maria Methode $19 15 AWARDED 2015 HHHH Traditionnelle Obvious red apple notes Marlborough Cuvée Mitchelton More consistent class to the nose. Palate is 2016 HHH Nagambie Blanc de of sparklings than the still fresh with plenty of Sweet nutty nose with Blancs NV HHH non-vintage ones. “We mouth-watering acidity. a richer riper palate that Delicate floral nose are seeing a touch more Drying on the finish. $39 has retained freshness. with sherbet notes and yeast complexity here,” $36.99 sweet complexity to the said one judge. “And palate. $22 more balanced wines with a nice level of retained freshness.” September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 81

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING Bunnamagoo No.1 Family Estate Wines Estate Reserve Mudgee & Orange Marlborough Sparkling Pinot Noir Sparkling Chardonnay Chardonnay NV HHH 2014 HHH Evolving nutty nose and Honeyed stewed fruit a plain palate with subtle aromas and aged yeastiness and lots of caramelised flavours. tropical fruit. $96 NZ “Interesting drinking!” $30 Bunnamagoo Blue Pyrenees Estate Wines Pyrenees Vintage Single Vineyard Brut 2011 HHH Rockley Central Tight zesty style quite Ranges Sparkling fresh for its age with Chardonnay subtle underlying 2015 HHH complexity. $32 Fleshy fruit driven style. Some complexity on the Blue Pyrenees nose and good flavour Midnight Cuvée persistence. $60 Pyrenees Sparkling Chardonnay Chateau Yaldara Yes Said The Seal Tempus Two Pewter Bouvet Trésor 2011 HHH Adelaide Hills Reserve Geelong Hunter Valley Saumur Brut An elegant flinty fruit Sparkling Blanc de Noir Sparkling 2016 HHHH driven aperitif style Chardonnay Pinot 2011 HHHH Pinot Noir Flinty apple bouquet, with hints of secondary Noir 2015 HHHHH Complex nose; lots Chardonnay slight complexity notes. $36 “Gorgeous nose, of yeasty/earthiness. 2013 HHH with smoky notes. Grampians Estate smells of fresh baked Palate has mouth filling Very minerally sparkling, Complicated creamy Kelly’s Welcome croissants,” according mousse and very good on the green side, with palate with tight acid Grampians Blanc de to one judge. Very well mineral and savoury mouth-watering acidity backbone. $29.99 Blanc 2010 HHH put together palate – components. $40 for length. $40 All apples and pears complex yet fresh with Clover Hill Brut Bouvet Instinct with buttery notes and intense floral notes and Tasmania Sparkling No.1 Family Estate Saumur Brut emerging secondary nice acid structure. $50 Chardonnay Pinot Cuvée Adele 2014 HHH elements. $35 Noir Pinot Meunier Marlborough Fresh fragrances with 2013 HHH1/2 Sparkling honey complexity. Good SPARKLING Interesting aged aromas. Chardonnay flavour intensity on a $40+ Sweet complexity to Pinot Noir drying palate. $29.99 the palate balanced by 2013 HHH 14 TASTED intense acidity. Drinking Herbaceous and smoky CHAMPAGNE well now. $45 on the nose with a ROSE 10 AWARDED Nicholson River clean acid driven palate Vintage Gippsland and some aged notes. 4 TASTED A group of both quality Sparkling Pinot $240 NZ 3 AWARDED wines and marginal Chardonnay ones. More layers of 2011 HHH1/2 OTHER A small flight of quality flavour and freshness Aged toasty/chocolaty/ EUROPEAN Champagne rosé here and good balance mocha bouquet and a, showing good depth of yeast and fruit. “Warm and comforting 4 TASTED of fruit, nice mineral palate.” Drink now! $45 3 AWARDED texture and balanced Centennial Thompson Estate yeast autolysis and Vineyards Southern Zero Dosage A good, small, “snappy” sugar (dosage). Highlands Blanc de Margaret River group of sparklings. A bit Blancs NV HHHH1/2 Sparkling Pinot Noir more subtle complexity Ernest Rapeneau Creamy yeasty citrusy Chardonnay and natural balance here. Epernay Brut Rosé bouquet and a crème 2010 HHH1/2 NV HHHH caramel of a palate Preserved lemon nose Perelada Cava Brut Attractive yeasty notes with a fine citrus line, with smoky yeasty Reserva DO Cava, to the nose with subtle excellent balance, very notes. Austere palate, Spain Brut Cava strawberry aromas. good length and syrupy creamy texture and NV HHHH Palate has lovely zesty texture. $40 restrained flavours. $45 Subtle fruit nose with freshness and nice leesy notes and tight, sweet dosage. $59.99 well-balanced and super fresh drier style palate developing some complexity. $21 82 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

varietal tasting CHAMPAGNE UNDER $100 10 TASTED 8 AWARDED Maison Alexandre An excellent flight – as Maison Alexandre Maison Alexandre Maison Alexandre Bonnet Perle Rosee expected! “The mousse Bonnet Harmonie de Bonnet Grande Bonnet Blanc de Les Riceys, France of these wines was Blancs Les Riceys, Reserve Les Riceys, Noirs NV HHHH Pinot Noir Rosé Brut plush and silky yet France Brut France Sparkling Good aperitif style NV HHHH maintained density,” NV HHHHH Pinot Noir showing excellent Nice nutty complexity said one judge. “The Very complex toasty Chardonnay aged complexity to the strawberry-like natural balance of fruit aroma profile with NV HHHH1/2 that interplays nicely nose and has a leaner, and fruit acids here are underlying citrus fruit. A complex bouquet of with the fresher fruit crisper and dryer style hard to argue with,” said The lovely vibrant honey and toast with a characters. $75 of palate. $90 another. “Champagne palate exhibits excellent creamy edge to it. Very is hard to stuff-up so freshness, length, depth good flavour complexity Canard-Duchêne winemakers tend to and precision. $90 with excellent length Champagne, France leave it alone so it can and balance. Good Brut NV HHH show its glory!” palate texture. $75 Slight confectionery Ernest Rapeneau notes to the nose with Barnaut Grande Epernay Brut a lean, straightforward, Reserve Champagne NV HHHH palate. $56 Sparkling Pinot Noir Nose is a nutty Chardonnay complexity of aromas CHAMPAGNE NV HHHHH with subtle florals. $100+ Nose shows great Palate has depth, length yeast autolysis with and complexity yet is 6 TASTED subtle smoky notes. The still fresh. $49.99 6 AWARDED palate is more of a drier, aperitif, style showing good complexity, length and intensity of flavours. $85 Jeeper Grand Achille Princier Jean Pernet Sensational class! Rose Champagne Grande Reserve Brut Tradition “Go French – go big!” Sparkling Rosé Champagne Champagne enthused one judge. NV HHHH Sparkling Sparkling “Great examples Good aromatic lift of fruit Chardonnay Chardonnay of freshness and and yeasty complexity Pinot Noir Pinot Noir complexity – what can with subtle strawberry Pinot Meunier Pinot Meunier you say!” said another. flavours laced with NV HHHH1/2 NV HHHH “Superb!” concluded toasty/savoury nuances. Fresh citrus fruit Peaches and melons the third judge. $135 fragrances laced with on the nose with subtle funky aged notes. yeasty notes. Very well Creamy in the mouth, balanced palate – lovely excellent acid structure length of lemony/citrus and a hint of honeycomb- flavours. $60 like sweetness. $67 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 83

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING Jeeper Grand Jeeper Grande Henri Giraud OTHER Eight Carat McLaren Assemblage Reserve Champagne Blanc de Craie SPARKLING Vale Sparkling Pinot Champagne Sparkling Champagne, France ROSE Noir Rosé NV HHHH Sparkling Chardonnay Champagne Intense citrus aromas Chardonnay Pinot NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/2 12 TASTED with a lovely nutty lift. Noir Pinot Meunier The nose is a melange A leaner, more austere, 7 AWARDED Soft in the mouth, slight NV HHHHH of roasted nuts, subtle primary fruit driven style Some surprisingly sweetness and zippy A complex mix of glace fruits and hints with subtle candied good results here. “I fresh acidity to balance. excellent primary fruit of malo creaminess. citrus fragrances and would drink sparkling $20 with classic brioche/ “Superb” fruit driven upfront fruit sweetness pinot above a still pinot Matahiwi Estate yeast characters. Tight palate with nice savoury on the drying palate. any day,” enthused Wairarapa Brut mineral palate – silky complexity. Complex but Some oak evident. $110 one judge. “Australian Rosé NV HHHH in the mouth, lots of shows restraint. $120 sparkling rosé delivers A pretty nose; lots yeasty complexity and Jeeper Premier Jeeper Extra more serious character of strawberry fruit succulent acidity. $105 Cru Champagne Brut Naturelle than the still rosé with nutty notes. An Sparkling Champagne because of the extra appealing, slightly Chardonnay Pinot Sparkling yeast complexity and sweet, fleshy palate. Noir Pinot Meunier Chardonnay Pinot added structure.” Has length and balance. NV HHHHH Noir NV HHHH1/2 $26.99 “Complex and “Yum!” Aromas of Centennial Wills Domain complete,” said one porcini mushrooms, Vineyards Southern Cuvée d’Elevage judge. And yet it still has stewed fruits and subtle Highlands Brut Rosé Margaret River lovely retained freshness. honey citrus notes. Very NV HHHH1/2 Sparkling Merlot Buttery brioche bouquet complex flavour profile Delicate pretty cherry Rosé NV HHHH and subtle fruit flavours with subtle earthy/ and strawberry fruit Lovely fragrant on the creamy smooth Vegemite notes. $149 fragrances with a touch freshness of florals and palate. $195 George Vesselle of toastiness. Lovely strawberries. Creamy Grand Cru interplay of fruit and mousse and good Champagne, France complex secondary flavour intensity with Champagne notes on the palate. zippy acidity. $39 2009 HHHH1/2 “More-ish.” $35 Clover Hill Cuvee Fruit driven style still Rosé Tasmania amazingly fresh with Sparkling honeyed lemon preserve Chardonnay Pinot bouquet and subtle Noir Pinot Meunier mandarin flavours with NV HHH1/2 honeyed nuances. Funky toasty bouquet “Needs oysters!” $110 with savoury/meatiness. Palate has good mousse and loads of flavour with tropical undertones. $34 Taltarni Taché Victoria Sparkling Rosé 2013 HHH A big, drier, fruit driven style offering enjoyable drinking. $26 Taltarni Cuvée Victoria Sparkling Rosé 2013 HHH A caramel sweet nose with plenty of flavour weight on the brut style palate. $26 84 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

SPARKLING Blue Pyrenees varietal tasting RED Pyrenees Sparkling Shiraz NV HHHH Follow us and keep up to 19 TASTED Pretty, perfumed, date with all our latest 9 AWARDED slightly candied, aromas wine info, tastings and with spicy notes. A very mixed bag with Lovely sweet and spicy events on facebook, enough good examples intensity of blackberry twitter and instagram. to satisfy most lovers flavours. $32 of this unique Aussie Carmine’s Wines Connect on social with style. “The best wines South Australia Winestate showed good clean Sparkling Shiraz primary fruit with NV HHH1/2 www.facebook.com/Winestate- good acid balance and Nose has lovely savoury Magazine were neither sweet notes with a spicy edge. nor dry with tannins Some pretty, dark, aged twitter.com/winestateed complementary to fruit flavours with a www.instagram.com/winestate/ the fruit sweetness,” savoury thread. $20 concluded one judge. d’Arenberg The www.winestate.com.au Peppermint Paddock McLaren Vale Sparkling Chambourcin Shiraz Graciano NV HHH A plum jam-like bouquet and very youthful fresh berry and plum palate. Crisp finish. $28 Mount Avoca Jack Barry Pyrenees Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH Traditional style with gorgeous spicy peppery elements, some sweetness and oaky notes. $48.95 1847 Wines Barossa Taltarni Pyrenees Valley Sparkling Sparkling Shiraz Petit Verdot 2017 HHH 2016 HHHH1/2 Subtle prune-like aromas “A rich, warm and and good fruit weight on comforting style”, the palate with savoury according to one judge. oak. $26 Lots of red fruits with Kimbolton Bella subtle use of oak and Monta Langhorne showing interesting Creek Sparkling cola-like notes. $55 Montepulciano Leconfield Syn 2017 HHH Rouge Coonawarra Closed nose but good Sparkling Shiraz palate weight with NV HHHH savoury/red and black A lift of cherry fruit flavours. $36 fragrances showing a Gallagher Canberra subtle thread of oak. District Sparkling Appealing fresh sweet Shiraz 2016 HHH red fruit palate with nice Dark red fruit aromas spicy notes. $18.50 with peppery notes. Palate is quite meaty and gamey. $40 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 85

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN LIMESTONE COAST PITCHING THE TENT OPTION REPUTATION FOR FINE REDS Raidis Estate is one of the newer names in Coonawarra but the family has lived and BELLWETHER Wines on the site of the FOR a place that’s a mere speck on the worked in the region for over 40 years. The 1868 Glen Roy shearing shed has a map midway between Adelaide and family owns and operates the vineyards that boutique campground with six beautiful Melbourne, Coonawarra is a very popular produce their wines and you’ll probably find tents to sleep up to 12 people (two in each tourism destination - largely because family patriarch Chris or his son Steven at tent) and six camp sites for those who of its reputation for producing some of the cellar door. bring their own gear. Australia’s finest red wines. For many years the Raidis family, with Surrounded by 500+-year-old red gums, the Coonawarra may be flat, and remote, but it Chris at the helm, ran the Friday night site has a central communal campfire to keep remains a magnet for wine lovers throughout Charcoal Grill in Coonawarra - a Greek visitors warm in winter. Visitors can see the the year thanks to a series of annual food and tradition that the Coonawarra locals wine being made during vintage, even join wine festivals that include After Dark each absolutely love. To this day the charcoal in if you want to do the vintage experience, April, the Cellar Dwellers events in June grill still gets a workout, but just not as or cook using fresh herbs and produce from and the Coonawarra Cabernet Celebrations regularly. Raidis Estate, 15741 Riddoch the garden including fresh eggs. every October. The township of Penola has Highway, Penola; phone (08) 8737 2966 a population of 1200 and Coonawarra itself, or visit raidis.com.au. There is an on-site amenities block with just down the road, is home to just a couple seven showers, six toilets and even a of hundred people. Just across the road FINE FARE AND FAMOUS claw-foot bath. Queen tents or twin singles from Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate you’ll find FAMILIES for two people start from $200 a night, Fodder Food/Wine, run by former Rymill including a bottle of Ant series wine. winemaker John Innes and his wife Melissa, IN Penola the venerable Royal Oak Hotel who also operate Ottelia Wines. In addition was recently purchased by John Rymill, a If you have your own camping gear, to a great wine list, Fodder is also known for member of one of the region’s most famous caravan, campervan, motorhome or swag producing some of the best pizzas in South wine families, and partner Mary Harvey, then unpowered sites are $30 and powered Australia; think tomato, Asiago cheese, who took over in August, last year. sites are $45. pancetta and roasted capsicum, or tomato, mozzarella, ham, Felino salami, mushrooms The hotel building dates back to the There is a barbecue, kettle, toaster and and olives. There is a house rule of “no 1800s and Rymill says: “We want to focus laundry for campers, along with a camp chicken or pineapple on pizzas.” on the beautiful building that this is, and kitchen and a trampoline, tree house, move forward from there - good service, swing, garden, cows, sheep, donkey and You can also try a “nibbles plate” of goat booze and food.” chickens to entertain children. curd and garlic custard, zucchini pickle, baba ghanoush, sweet and sour mushrooms Think dishes like gin-cured trout, or warming Bellwether Wine, 14183 Riddoch Highway, and shaved Ventricina salami, or try tortellini schnitzels after a day of wine tastings. Coonawarra; phone 0417 080 945 or visit of wood-roasted pumpkin, goat curd and bellwetherwines.com.au. garden herb oil, ricotta gnocchi, sage and For anyone looking for a fine dining burnt butter sauce, or prawns with garlic, experience, Pipers of Penola is run by chilli and Nonya sauce. Visit fodder.net.au. Simon Bowen, a member of another of the region’s winemaking families. It is MAKING THEIR MARK open for dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays. Visit pipersofpenola.com.au. STEVEN and Emma Raidis, of Raidis Estate, are two of the busiest people in COTTAGES WITH CHARACTER the Coonawarra region and have recently completed a new cellar door to host COONAWARRA Cottages are owned by tastings, pizza nights and dinners. Mal and Deb Redman, members of one of the most famous winemaking families Sit in front of the fire sipping on a wine or on the Limestone Coast. do a guided tasting with one of the team and hear the stories behind the wines. Located in the heart of the hamlet, the three cottages boast the original early 20th-century character and have all been beautifully 86 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

travelbriefs renovated. All three provide comfortable and still stand, pretty much in their original state. SLUMBER BY THE SEA charming self-catering accommodation, with Owen Redman planned the winery based two having large gardens. on the layout of the Rouge Homme winery, FANCY some beach time? The Pelican which he’d worked previously, with a view Shed in Robe is a contemporary beach The cottages are within walking distance to using traditional winemaking techniques. house designed with simplicity and of several renowned wineries, a shop Visit redmanwines.com.au. coastal living in mind. and park area with tennis courts. They are adjacent to local restaurant Fodder CHARITY BEGINS AT ‘HOME’ Hidden among the native coastal (open Thursday–Monday for lunches) vegetation but perched above the and the Coonawarra walking trail passes SIX of Coonawarra’s top winemakers have coastal wetlands, it is constructed of by. All linen, towels and firewood are united for the second consecutive year to modern corrugated materials with floor- provided, along with provisions for a create the perfect blend of cabernet while to-ceiling windows. cooked breakfast. attempting to stamp out homelessness in the Limestone Coast. Stand-out features include an The three cottages can cater for eight LCD television, Bose Ipod dock, air people, or 10 if using a sofa bed, and The Homeless Grapes Project first conditioning and a king and queen Skinners Cottage has dining facilities for arrived in Coonawarra last year after bedroom. Included is free wifi and a eight if several families are staying together. successful events in other wine regions, complimentary local bottle of wine. using grapes which would otherwise go The Pickers Hut is ideal for a couple. It has to waste in the processing chain. When Prices range from $285 to $430 per kitchen facilities and a barbecue, as well as first approached, the region’s vignerons night for two adults. Facilities include a pergola. There is a TV and DVD and choice were willing to support the cause, but a barbecue. The Pelican Shed, 2 Park between air conditioning or a wood fire. Coonawarra had few surplus grapes. This Terrace, Robe; phone 0417 898 584 or led to a collaborative partnership between visit roberetreats.com.au. Skinners Cottage is the largest of the six wineries who have put their brains - and cottages and can comfortably cater for two grapes - together. ROAMING THROUGH ROBE couples or more with indoor and outdoor dining, as well as all facilities. Hollick Estates, Raidis Estate, Patrick of ROBE is situated on the rugged Limestone Coonawarra, Penley Estate, Redman Wines Coast with beautiful views of the ocean, The Bank House is a restored 1917 and Jim Brand Wines jumped on board beaches and wild bushland. The town is limestone building that once housed a with their winemakers joining the cause. scattered with historic buildings dating local bank and post office. It has a lovely Together the group decided to nominate back over 150 years ago, when Robe garden and a slow combustion stove. local charity organisation ac.care as the flourished as the second most active Coonawarra Cottages are at 3-5 Mary St, recipient of profits raised from all wine sold. seaport in South Australia. Coonawarra; phone 0411 249 304 or visit coonawarracottages.com.au. With the 2018 event a success and the Today it is a popular destination for wine currently ageing for release later this travellers and holiday makers exploring REDMAN REACHES A year, the group has projected a $60,000 the region. It is known not for wine but for MILESTONE donation from the initial batch. its family-run artisan brewery - The Robe Town Brewery. THIS year marks a significant milestone for “Every part of the process is donated,” one of Coonawarra’s oldest winemaking Patrick of Coonawarra brand manager The brewery operates the only wood-fired families - Redman Wines. Natasha Gordon said. “From the grapes brewing kettle in Australia and all malt is to the winemaking, to the bottling, labelling mashed in oak barrels and filtered through It is 50 years ago since the Redman and promotion.” hay. The beers feature local barley. winery was opened (following the sale of the original Rouge Homme winery and label Funds are donated to ac.care and Most products are sold in Robe at the in July, 1965) by then premier Steele Hall. the money kept in the Limestone Coast brewery tasting room, where visitors can community, a gesture praised by ac.care enjoy an in-depth tasting flight. Redman became one of the first producers chief executive officer Shane Maddocks. in the region to have a modern on-site winery. The Robe Town Brewery is open Tuesday- “It is wonderful to see Coonawarra’s wine Saturday 10am-5pm, or by appointment at “The cellar door scene was also in its infancy sector and the wider community partner 97 Millicent Rd, Robe; phone 0415 993 693 and we offered visitors a sneak peek at the for a project which will provide significant or visit robetownbrewery.com.au. winemaking process and the chance to taste support for ac.care’s services,” he said. and buy our wines - a relatively new concept Opposite page top left & bottom: Bellwether Wines tents. back then, believe it or not,” the family says. Opposite page top right: Raidis Estate tasting. Top left: Redman family. Above right: Robe Town Brewery. Fifty years on the winery and cellar door September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 87

104 TASTED 87 AWARDED LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS An excellent line-up of quality cool climate wines from this Andrew Peace Hoggies Estate southern region, bordering South Australia and Victoria (equal Empress Coonawarra distant from Adelaide and Melbourne). The heroes here are Wrattonbully Pinot Sauvignon Blanc cabernet based wines and merlot, (amoung Australia’s finest) Gris 2018 HHHH 2017 HHH but don’t dismiss some delicious chardonnay and crisp and lively Light pear aromas with Some toasty complexity rieslings. savoury elements. A to the nose and a sweet complex palate; great fruited palate with zesty SPARKLING Patrick of Majella Coonawarra persistence of floral acid. $14.99 Coonawarra Riesling 2018 HHH pear flavours. Good food 4 TASTED Coonawarra Simple and pretty with wine. $19 CHARDONNAY 2 AWARDED Wrattonbully delicate citrus/rose petal Aged Riesling bouquet and tight lemon/ SAUVIGNON 11 TASTED Fifty/fifty result here 2014 HHHHH lime palate. $17 BLANC 10 AWARDED with the best having Very funky toasty good sugar/acid balance. marmalade age Patrick of 5 TASTED Consistent group of complexity to the nose. Coonawarra 4 AWARDED delicious wines ranging Minuet by Majella A full flavoured palate Coonawarra from the riper styles Coonawarra with lovely length of Wrattonbully Another consistent to the leaner and Sparkling Riesling attractive ageing fruit Riesling 2018 HHH result where the variety crisper ones. Generally NV HHHH flavours. Great acid A drier style with bold, does well in this region. the region produces A very crisp, dry and drive. 3-5 $39 musky, preserved lemon “The region produces richer full flavoured youthful style with aromas and flavours. $25 more green/lantana- chardonnays with great appealing stonefruit/ Leconfield Old Vines like varietal fruit wines appeal. citrus characters and a Coonawarra Riesling PINOT GRIS & than any other region hint of nutty funkiness 2018 HHHH WHITE PINOT in Australia,” said one Black Wattle and tight acidity. $30 Flinty zesty citrus/ judge. Vineyards The floral bouquet and 3 TASTED Icon Mt Benson Katnook Estate lovely perfumed citrus 2 AWARDED Koonara Angel’s Chardonnay Founder’s Block flavours on the crisp Footprints Mount 2017 HHHHH Coonawarra palate with a tight An excellent result for Gambier Sauvignon A well structured and Sparkling Shiraz finish. 5+ $26 these two high scoring Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 flavoursome chardonnay 2017 HHH wines. “Although fruit A pretty, fresh and with nice nutty oak on A quaffable fruit driven Hoggies Estate is always important the uncomplicated wine the peachy fruit nose sparkling with some Limestone Coast winemakers’ skill for this smelling of cut grass and a perfect alignment complexity and soft Riesling variety is paramount,” and preserved lemons on the palate between acidity. $23 2016 HHH1/2 said one judge. “Be with zippy citrus the oak and the fruit. Ageing well with very brave with colour!” flavours. $19.95 $46.50 RIESLING attractive fruit showing a hint of hessian, slight Koonara Lucy & Patrick of Black Wattle 6 TASTED flintiness and nice Alice Limestone Coonawarra Vineyards Mt 6 AWARDED crispness. 3-5 Coast Pinot Gris P Series Limestone Benson Chardonnay $14.99 2019 HHHH Coast Sauvignon 2017 HHHH1/2 Consistent class with Fresh perfumed pear Blanc 2018 HHH1/2 Lovely rich fruit the region performing Patrick of fragrances and lovely A complex and pungent fragrances with toasty well with this variety Coonawarra weight of pear and apple bouquet with slight complexity developing in the lemon/citrus Coonawarra fruit flavours with a flinty green notes and a and a nice funky note. spectrum. Wrattonbully slight tropical character. classic tropical fruit-like Big and creamy in the Aged Riesling $20 palate. $19 mouth with flavours of 2012 HHH1/2 stone fruits and melons. Developed toasty/funky Katnook Estate $34.99 aromas and a very Coonawarra delicate palate. Excellent Sauvignon Blanc example of an aged 2018 HHH1/2 riesling. $39 Tropical/dry grass aromas and big mouthful of funky passionfruit flavours laced with zippy acidity. $25 88 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

regional tasting Bowen Estate Hoggies Estate Leconfield Coonawarra Coonawarra Coonawarra Chardonnay Chardonnay VBBAEULSYUTSE Cabernet Franc 2018 HHHH An attractive powerful 2018 HHH 2018 HHHH1/2 nutty/smoky style with Delicate and tight style Confectionery sweet aromas of citrus and with elegant varietal fruit cherry/berry bouquet peaches and a, “Bold and light use of oak. with a savoury edge. palate with loads of $14.99 Rich palate – very everything.” $24 pretty and tasting of Brand’s Laira Glendale Limestone sweet plums with a Blockers Coast Chardonnay fine but powerful tannin Coonawarra 2018 HHH structure. 5+ $29 Chardonnay Wild funky bouquet and a 2018 HHHH lean peaches and cream- Majella Creamy stonefruit like palate. $20 Coonawarra nose with honeyed Merlot complexity and a well ROSÉ 2017 HHHH1/2 poised palate with good Lively lifted perfumed oak/fruit integration. $25 2 TASTED oak nose with Morambro Creek attractive red fruits. Padthaway 2 AWARDED Lovely generosity and Chardonnay concentration of varietal 2016 HHHH Great example of two Herbert Barrel #7 fruit flavours and fine The Musician Rich fruit nose with barrel different styles of rosé; Mount Gambier drying tannins. “More- by Majella ferment complexity. the sweet candyfloss Pinot Noir ish!” $30 Coonawarra VBBAEULSYUTSE Soft and creamy in and the crisp and 2016 HHH1/2 Cabernet the mouth, filling out savoury. Sour cherry aromas Katnook Estate Sauvignon Shiraz nicely with citrus/peach with nice funkiness Founder’s Block 2016 HHHH1/2 flavours. $34.95 Majella Coonawarra and savoury oak. Some Coonawarra Merlot Very attractive minty Hollick Estates Bond Shiraz Rosé complexity developing on 2017 HHH1/2 cassis nose with Road Coonawarra 2019 HHHH the red fruit palate. $42 Red fruit nose with a a subtlety of oak Chardonnay “A very slurpable touch of spice and hint underneath. Beautifully 2018 HHH1/2 punter’s wine,” Herbert Mount of mint. Quite a rustic structured sweet and Stonefruit nose with according to one judge. Gambier Pinot varietal fruit palate with spicy dark berry palate light tropicals and Sweet fresh strawberry Shiraz 2016 HHH big firm tannins. with a hint of oak. “Very nutty oak sitting on top nose and perfumed fruit A pretty, fresh and lifted of the creamy citrus palate. $17 strawberry and plum 3-5 $20 flavours. $25 fruit driven style. $35 Leconfield Leconfield Riddoch Coonawarra yummy!” $18 Coonawarra La Sevillana MERLOT & Merlot 2017 HHH Chardonnay Coonawarra Merlot CABERNET Aromas of plums and The Malleea 2018 HHH1/2 Rosé 2019 HHHH FRANC berries and a bright by Majella Attractive marzipan- A lovely modern style of palate layered with Coonawarra like fragrances and rosé. It has subtle red 5 TASTED cranberry and plum Cabernet ripe tropical flavours fruit fragrances with a 5 AWARDED characters. $20 Sauvignon Shiraz with subtle nutty oak floral lift and lingering 2014 HHHH1/2 underneath. $26 strawberry flavours. $26 Excellent class of CABERNET A well balanced, nicely Koonara Cape Banks merlots with new BLENDS aged wine with bright Mount Gambier PINOT NOIR & clones coming on board. perfumed cedar oak and Chardonnay BLENDS “Merlot is not cabernet,” 6 TASTED cassis fruit fragrances 2019 HHH said one judge. and a fine silky smooth A clean fruit driven nose 3 TASTED 6 AWARDED palate of sweet oak and and a crisp fruity palate. 2 AWARDED Leconfield dark berries. $80 Coonawarra Merlot 3-5 $25 This shows the potential 2018 HHHH1/2 Another good example Leconfield of Mt. Gambier as a Dense fruit fragrances showing the strength Coonawarra region for this variety. with generous oak of the region for so- Cabernet Merlot balance. Palate called Bordeaux blends. 2017 HHHH described by one judge “These have vibrancy Dark bramble bouquet as having, “Friendly and good fruit tannin with subtle hints of oak. brambly fruit and dark structure,” said one More of the bramble chocolate”. Strong judge. fruit on the somewhat tannins and dusty oak. savoury and well rounded palate. $26 5+ $26 Riddoch Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2017 HHH1/2 Well structured, medium weight, wine with lovely red/blue fruit characters, underlying oak and fine tannins. $20 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 89

LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS Andrew Peace Riddoch Reserve Andrew Peace Hollick Estates Australia Felix Coonawarra Empress Ravenswood Barrel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Wrattonbully Coonawarra Wrattonbully 2017 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Shiraz Good fruit nose 2018 HHHH 2016 HHHH 2016 HHH integrated with the oak Ripe blackberry bouquet Nose of cassis fruit, Subtle cassis/oak and showing minty/ with an elegant oak violets and subtle oak. aromas and sweet, peppery notes. An background. Lovely Sweet fruit flavours upfront, fruit flavours. elegant but powerful cabernet flavours with with supporting oak and Some oak and soft palate with plenty of subtle use of oak and mouth-coating tannins. tannins. $28 pure fruit and sinewy fine tannins. $19 Red Empress tannins. 5+ $35 3-5 $85 Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz Black Wattle Glendale Limestone 2015 HHH Vineyards Mt Coast Cabernet Quite a savoury, oak Benson Cabernet Sauvignon driven, style with Sauvignon 2017 HHH1/2 attractive dark fruits 2017 HHHH Clean fruit driven style showing through. $40 Classic cassis fruit with subtle oak use. fragrances with spicy oak Spicy minty notes to CABERNET to balance and a tightly the nose and classic SAUVIGNON wound palate with pure cabernet flavours. 2018-2016 varietal fruit flavours. 5+ $20 17 TASTED 5+ $34.99 16 AWARDED Leconfield The Majella Coonawarra Leconfield Sydney Reserve A very strong and Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra consistent line-up 2016 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra of cabernets from 2017 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra and greater A classic cabernet with Very attractive bright 2016 HHH1/2 Limestone Coast region. youthful cassis fruit crimson wine with Good results across fragrances and a violet- lots of dark briary fruit A lovely wine with the board from the characters and subtle complex aromas and very three vintages. “These like lift supported by backing from the toasty savoury, oak dominant, show lovely structure, cedary oak. Lovely varietal oak. 5+ $35 elegance and tannin fruit flavours, fine oak palate. Quite robust balance,” said one judge. tannins. 5+ $80 “Classic wines with and powerful powdery ageing ability.” tannins. 5+ $35 Koonara 1,000 JUDGES Andrew Peace Sundowns Brand’s Laira 1968 Westmere Wines Empress Coonawarra Vines Coonawarra Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon Bool Lagoon Barbs Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Block Limestone 2016 HHHH 2017 HHH 2016 HHHHH Coast Cabernet An attractive style Nose is a lovely mix of with fresh fleshy fruit Slightly closed cassis/ Sauvignon fragrances and lively oak fragrances and blue fruit, tar and olive 2016 HHHH1/2 young dark fruit flavours. aromas and has lovely “Very slurpable.” Time! well-structured dark fruit Retrained cassis palate. 5+ $20 sweet blackberry flavours aromas with very spicy 5+ $19 with tarry nuances and hints of violets with lovely elements. Powerful, Barristers Block seamlessly balanced, Wrattonbully line of tannins. 5+ varietal palate with Cabernet Sauvignon $40 CDO 2017 HHH blackberry and olive Morambro Creek Dark brambly fruit with flavours and dominant Padthaway Cabernet a slight green edge and Black Wattle tannins. 5+ $26 Sauvignon generous chocolaty oak. Vineyards The Icon Mt Benson Cabernet 2016 HHHH 5+ $33 Cassis aromas with Sauvignon minty hints and olive 2016 HHHHH A big brooding chocolaty/ notes. Palate is powerful yet elegant with classic black fruit bouquet with a varietal flavours and rich palate high in tannins but has enough intense velvety tannins. 5+ $34.95 varietal fruit to match with good upfront acid. A keeper. 5+ $45.50 Peter Weinberg Natalie Cleghorn Paul Gordon Winemaker for Winemaker with the Winemaker for Leconfield McWilliam’s Wines’ Yalumba Wine Co since wines. In the industry Brand’s of Coonawarra. 1998. Associate judge for the past 23 years and Bachelor of Applied at the Barossa Wine has previously worked Science in Oenology Show, Stanthorpe Small at Hamilton Wine Group, and previously the Winemakers and Adelaide Lindemans, Southcorp. assistant winemaker for wine show. Judged at the Auckland Mt Pleasant Wines in wine show and has been an the Hunter Valley. associate at the Melbourne, Rutherglen and Canberra wine shows. 90 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

regional tasting Koonara Wanderlust Brand’s Laira Kopparossa Estate Riddoch Reserve Glendale Limestone Coonawarra Blockers Vintage Reserve Coonawarra Shiraz Coast Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Coonawarra 2016 HHHH1/2 2017 HHH 2016 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon An intense maturing An elegant shiraz, A big powerful cabernet; 2015 HHHH1/2 2012 HHH shiraz with rich oaky reflective of the 2017 great depth of fruit, A big wine with a Attractive aged nose, aromas laced with vintage. Pretty floral minty background and powerful but fine soft palate, lovely sweet purple fruits. Big fruit fruit and fine tannins. supporting oak. $24.95 tannin structure. fruit and mouth coating driven palate backed Shows some age and tannins. 3-5 $60 by cedary oak with 3-5 $20 CABERNET persistent tannins. SAUVIGNON smells of blackberries Jip Jip Rocks 2015 & OLDER with forest floor-like 5+ $35 Padthaway Shiraz notes and dark leafy SHIRAZ & 2017 HHH 13 TASTED fruit flavours. 3-5 BLENDS Andrew Peace Maturing fruit/oak aromas 10 AWARDED $25 Empress and spicy fruit flavours 28 TASTED Wrattonbully with powerful tannin Lannister Shiraz 2018 HHHH structure. 5+ Single Vineyard 21 AWARDED Elegant contemporary Coonawarra style with peppery Cabernet Sauvignon fruit/oak fragrances. $20.95 2015 HHHH1/2 Rich dark fruit flavours These are showing how Leafy black fruit Generally consistent with slight green edge. Katnook Estate well wine can age from fragrances with quite a class with some wines Coonawarra Shiraz the region. Some great minty/menthol character. suffering from early 5+ $19 2017 HHH examples here! Big solid palate has development characters. Perfumed fruit great length of stylish The better had freshness fragrances and savoury Brand’s Laira fruit flavours with lovely and vibrancy with Jip Jip Rocks fruit palate with subtle One Seven One powerful tannins. $38 controlled use of oak. Padthaway Shiraz oak and fine tannins. Coonawarra “Shiraz from this region 2018 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be on the Nose is all spicy plums 3-5 $40 2015 HHHHH elegant side and so oak and delicate oak An elegant, and still Patrick of should not be overdone,” with a meaty note. Andrew Peace youthful, classic. The Coonawarra Home said one judge. Velvety smooth in the Empress nose is a melange of Block Coonawarra mouth with bright fruit Wrattonbully Shiraz blackberries, chocolate, Cabernet Sauvignon definition. $20.95 2016 HHH mint and violets. Intense 2013 HHHH1/2 Oak driven nose with a leafy dark berry fruit Classic blackcurrant Jip Jip Rocks menthol lift and minty flavours. Good use of aromas with violet Black Wattle Padthaway berry fruit flavours. oak and soft tannins. Vineyards Mt Shiraz Cabernet Drying tannins. nuances and some very Benson Shiraz 2017 HHHH 5+ $80 attractive oak. Velvety Bright, bold and youthful 3-5 $19 - starting to show a smooth in the mouth 2017 HHHHH trace of development. Lannister Single Pretty perfumed floral Attractive purple fruits Vineyard Limestone with sweet cassis fruit fruit fragrances and showing a savoury edge. Coast Shiraz Leconfield The and mouth coating 2015 HHH Sydney Reserve tannins. 5+ $45 plush blackberry driven 3-5 $20.95 Spicy plum nose with Coonawarra palate with an elegance supporting oak that Cabernet Sauvignon of oak to balance. Nice follows through to the 2015 HHHHH Patrick of mineral thread and palate. $28 Bright crimson wine Coonawarra good length of fine with aromas of Coonawarra soft tannins. 5+ Farmer’s Leap The blackberries, olive Cabernet Sauvignon $34.99 Brave Padthaway tapenade, violets and 2014 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHHH Redman Coonawarra charry oak. Nicely put Soft smooth easy Riddoch A very big wine with Shiraz 2014 HHH together varietal fruit drinking style with Coonawarra tarry dark fruit nose. A clean mature style and mocha oak palate good varietal fruit Shiraz Nicely developed palate with slightly minty fruit with fine line of tannins. characters and subtle 2017 HHHH1/2 but still has fresh sweet integrated with the oak. oak. 3-5 $29 Crimson red wine with fruit flavours evident. 5+ $80 a peppery red plum 3-5 $22 nose and a sprinkling of 5+ $35 Patrick of spices. Lovely smooth Brand’s Laira Patrick of Coonawarra Home elegant palate with Patrick of Blockers Coonawarra Grande Block Coonawarra a seamless balance Coonawarra Coonawarra Shiraz Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon between the fruit, oak Wrattonbully Shiraz 2014 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH and tannins. “More-ish!” 2013 HHH1/2 A complexity of minty 2010 HHHHH Surprisingly fresh A big bold oaky style blue fruit, mocha oak A nicely matured fruit fragrances with a 5+ $20 but has attractive and velvety tannins. cabernet showing good European style cabernet blue fruit characters aged tertiary characters palate. Great food wine. showing through and 3-5 $25 underscored by the but still has plenty of 5+ $45 Hollick Estates acid. $29 Kopparossa Estate Wrattonbully Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz alluring fruit characters 2016 HHHH1/2 2014 HHH evident and nicely Mature developed nose integrated with the Kopparossa Estate A brooding and and an oak driven palate Coonawarra somewhat old Patrick of with some spicy fruit cedary oak. 3-5 Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra underneath. $35 $125 2012 HHH fashioned, style. Aromas Mature aromas with of plums and spices Wrattonbully Joanna leathery notes. Palate still Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 has fruit sweetness with with a Bonox edge. A spice cake of a nose tarry complexity. $35 Robust palate generous with fruit and powerful with a leathery edge. Blueberry and chocolate tannins. 3-5 $25 flavours and good line of acid. 5+ $65 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 91

LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS Red Empress SWEET Reserve Coonawarra WHITES Shiraz 2014 HHH A nicely matured wine 1 TASTED with dark varietal fruit, subtle oak and fine 1 AWARDED tannins. 3-5 $40 A nice example of style STAR RATINGS  here, worth seeing out. Kopparossa Estate Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Vintage Reserve Hollick Estates excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Coonawarra Shiraz Nectar Botrytis All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry 2014 HHH Coonawarra Dessert professionals and are compared in peer Mature spicy oak nose Wine 2017 HHH1/2 classes by three judges. with lovely persistence Lusciously sweet CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, of sweet fruit flavours golden wine with good a major mail-order business. and fine tannins. botrytis notes and lovely CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. 5+ $60 SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Patrick of spicy, honeyed citrus  Contact information pg 119 -120. Coonawarra characters. 3-5 P Series Limestone $25 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Coast Shiraz BEST VALUE for $20 & under Cabernet 2013 HHH and NZ $25 & under. A robust savoury style For a complete list of what we tasted with some spiciness, please refer to www.winestate.com.au subtle oak and smart tannins. $19 92 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

MICHAEL COOPER RECENT RELEASES The standard of New Zealand wine is getting better, almost every year – the vines are sinking their roots deeper and deeper into the country’s varied soils, while advances in winemaker maturity are exerting a critical influence too. This latest tasting includes outstanding examples of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir, but also – and less predictably – very classy bottlings of grüner veltliner and cabernet sauvignon-based reds. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US).  Clos Henri Thomas Legacy Tohu Single Marlborough Waiheke Island Vineyard Whenua Sauvignon Blanc Cabernet Sauvignon Awa Awatere 2017 HHHHH 2013 HHHHH Valley Marlborough This distinctive, highly This promisingly dark red Chardonnay satisfying wine was was made solely from 2017 HHHHH estate-grown in the cabernet sauvignon, This elegant, youthful, Wairau Valley and partly hand-harvested at distinctly cool climate (10%) barrel-fermented. Onetangi and matured wine was grown in the Fragrant and weighty, for 18 months in French upper Awatere Valley and with power through the oak barriques (33% French oak aged. Bright, palate, it has excellent new). Fragrant, with light lemon/green, with body and depth of ripely blackcurrant and herb a fragrant, fresh, slightly herbaceous flavours, aromas and flavours, smoky bouquet, it is a subtle seasoning it is sturdy, with vigorous, with intense, of oak and a crisp, excellent structure, peachy, citrusy flavours, dry, sustained finish. density and complexity. oak complexity, and a Certified organic. $33 Approachable now, it finely balanced, long (A, UK, US) should be long-lived. $90 finish. Best drinking 2021+. $36 Rock Ferry Thomas Legacy Urlar Gladstone The Corners Waiheke Island Pinot Noir Vineyard Cabernet Merlot 2017 HHHHH Marlborough Franc 2013 HHHHH Certified organic, this Grüner Veltliner Set for the long haul, this attractive, deep ruby 2017 HHHHH fragrant, youthful red Wairarapa red is full of Certified organic, is a blend of cabernet personality. French oak- this is a distinctive, sauvignon (72%), merlot aged for 10 months, it classy wine. Bright, (23%) and cabernet franc is youthful and fragrant, light yellow/green, it (5%), matured for 18 with a complex, savoury is invitingly fragrant, months in French oak bouquet. Mouthfilling full-bodied and vibrantly barriques (62% new). and supple, it has deep, fruity, with deep, Deeply coloured, it is full- cherryish, spicy flavours, citrusy, peachy flavours, bodied and fresh, with hints of plums and nuts, a hint of ginger, toasty generous blackcurrant, excellent complexity and notes adding complexity plum, spice and herb a softly textured finish. and a dry, lasting finish. flavours, seasoned with Drink now or cellar. $45 Full of youthful vigour, nutty oak, excellent (A, UK, US) it’s already drinking complexity, good tannin well. $33 backbone and a lasting finish. $120 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 93

MICHAEL COOPER ½ Obsidian Estate Tohu Single Rock Ferry 3rd Rock Thomas Legacy Waiheke Island Vineyard Whenua Marlborough Pinot Waiheke Island Hunter’s MiruMiru™ Montepulciano Awa Awatere Valley Gris 2018 HHHH1/2 Pinot Gris NV HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Certified organic, this 2018 HHHH1/2 This very lively, full- Full of drink-young Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 estate-grown wine is This rare wine (450 flavoured, bottle- charm, but also This very ageworthy red fleshy and full-bodied, bottles only) was fermented Marlborough ageworthy, this delicious was estate-grown in the with good complexity estate-grown and bubbly is a blend of Onetangi red was upper Awatere Valley. and a slightly creamy hand-picked. Bright, chardonnay (50%), pinot barrel-matured for 10 Deep, bright ruby, it is texture. Still unfolding, light lemon/green, it noir (46%) and pinot months (French, 30% fragrant and savoury, it is vibrantly fruity, with is a finely balanced, meunier (4%). Pale new). Full-coloured, it with concentrated plum, strong, ripe, stonefruit medium-bodied style, lemon/green, it has rich, is fresh, full-bodied and cherry, spice and herb flavours to the fore, with fresh, concentrated peachy, slightly citrusy supple, with vibrant, flavours, seasoned balanced acidity and a pear, peach and spice and appley flavours, plummy, berryish with nutty oak, fresh dryish, long finish. $27 flavours, showing toasty notes adding flavours, showing good acidity and very good Ruru Reserve excellent delicacy and complexity, and a crisp, concentration, savoury complexity. Best Central Otago Pinot depth, and a slightly dryish finish. Good notes adding complexity drinking 2021+. $42 Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 sweet, long finish. $76 value. $29 (A, UK) and gentle tannins. $42 Staete Landt Nude Well worth cellaring, Thomas Hunter’s Offshoot Obsidian Reserve Marlborough Rosé this Alexandra red was Martinborough Marlborough Waiheke Island 2018 HHHH1/2 matured for 10 months Riesling Chardonnay The Mayor Drinking well now, this in French oak barrels 2018 HHHH1/2 2017 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 characterful, dry rosé (20% new). Deep From a Waiheke Island- This elegant, tightly Still very youthful, this was made from unstated ruby, with a fragrant, based producer, this structured wine was bold, vibrantly fruity red grape varieties (pinot savoury bouquet, it is youthful wine is well hand-picked at Rapaura, is a blend of cabernet gris and pinot noir is my full-bodied and sweet- worth cellaring. Bright, and fermented and franc (50%), petit verdot guess), barrel-fermented fruited, with youthful light lemon/green, it matured for a year in (25%) and malbec and lees-aged for an cherry, plum and spice is medium-bodied, large French oak casks (25%), matured in new extended period. Bright, flavours, showing with strong, vibrant (40% new). Light French and seasoned light pink, it has strong, excellent concentration flavours of peaches lemon/green, it is fresh, American oak barrels. fresh, peachy, spicy, and complexity, supple and grapefruit, a gentle vibrant and youthful, Full-coloured, it has strawberryish flavours, tannins and a long splash of sweetness, with concentrated, fresh, berryish, spicy showing a touch of tannin, finish. $38 good acid spine, and citrusy flavours, gently aromas and flavours, and greater complexity excellent drive, harmony seasoned with oak, showing excellent depth than most rosés. $21 and length. $38 lively acidity and obvious and complexity, fine- potential. $35 (A) grained tannins and good aging potential. $58 Obsidian Reserve Waiheke Island Chardonnay 2018 HHHH1/2 This fresh, generous, very ageworthy wine was fermented with indigenous yeasts in French oak barrels (40% new) and wood-aged for 10 months. Weighty and sweet-fruited, with concentrated stonefruit flavours, balanced acidity, good complexity and a slightly creamy texture, it should be at its best 2021+. $48 94 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

recent releases Tohu Single Clos Henri Petit Rapaura Vineyard Whenua Clos Marlborough Springs Reserve Matua Upper Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Moutere Nelson 2018 HHHH Chardonnay Chardonnay Certified organic, this 2018 HHHH 2017 HHHH1/2 Wairau Valley wine is Enjoyable young, this Well worth cellaring, this based on the estate’s vibrantly fruity wine was fresh, elegant, vigorous youngest vines. grown in the Southern wine has strong, citrusy, Bright, light lemon/ Valleys and partly barrel- peachy flavours, with green, it has a fresh, fermented. Bright, light toasty and smoky notes ripe bouquet, leading yellow/green, it has rich, adding complexity, into a mouthfilling, peachy, slightly toasty appetising acidity and a sweet-fruited wine with flavours, fresh acidity poised, slightly creamy generous, tropical fruit and a finely balanced finish. Best drinking flavours, crisp, dry and finish. Drink now or 2021+. $30 lively. $21 cellar. $29 Tohu Single Vineyard Tohu Single  Hunter’s Ruru Central Otago Whenua Awa Vineyard Whenua Marlborough Grüner Gewürztraminer Upper Awatere Awa Awatere Allan Scott Black Veltliner 2018 HHHH 2018 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Valley Marlborough Label Marlborough Already very expressive, This perfumed, softly Blanc 2018 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay this lively, single- mouthfilling wine A drink-now or cellaring 2018 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH vineyard, Awatere was grown in the proposition, this This punchy, highly Made in an extroverted Valley wine was Immigrant’s Vineyard, vibrantly fruity, partly aromatic wine was style, this pale gold wine hand-harvested and at Alexandra. Bright, barrel-fermented wine estate-grown in the was hand-harvested in fermented and matured light lemon/green, it has is bright, light lemon/ upper Awatere Valley. the Wairau Valley and in seasoned French strong, ripe, peachy, green, with a fragrant, Bright, light lemon/ fermented and matured oak puncheons. Bright, distinctly spicy flavours, creamy bouquet. Full- green, it is crisp and for eight months in light yellow/green, it is pronounced varietal bodied and dry, it has mouthfilling, with French oak puncheons. full-bodied, with strong, character, and an off-dry, fresh, peachy, slightly excellent vigour and Full-bodied, it has strong, vibrant, peachy, slightly well-rounded finish. $27 toasty flavours, balanced depth of tropical fruit ripe stonefruit flavours, spicy flavours, good Ruru Central Otago acidity and excellent and herbaceous flavours, seasoned with toasty complexity, balanced Pinot Noir depth. $36 lively and long. $28 oak, excellent complexity acidity and a dry finish. 2018 HHHH and a creamy-smooth $25 (A) Offering good value, finish. $26 Obsidian Estate this attractive, single- Blackenbrook Waiheke Island vineyard red was Nelson Chardonnay Tempranillo grown at Alexandra and 2017 HHHH 2018 HHHH matured for 10 months Drinking well now, this This firm, youthful red in French oak (20% generous wine was was grown at Onetangi new). Bright ruby, with hand-picked and matured and matured for 10 fresh, strong, cherryish, for a year in American months in French and plummy, spicy flavours, and French oak casks American oak barriques. it has nutty, savoury (12% new). Fragrant and Full-coloured, it is notes adding complexity, full-bodied, it has citrus mouthfilling and savoury, and a backbone of ripe, and stonefruit flavours, with strong, ripe, supple tannins. Drink mealy, savoury notes berryish, spicy flavours, now or cellar. $27 adding complexity, and a fresh acidity and good Thomas Waiheke smooth, slightly creamy complexity. Best Island Syrah finish. $25 drinking 2021+. $42 2015 HHHH Still unfolding, this STAR RATINGS  estate-grown red was matured for 15 Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of months in French oak excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. barriques (50% new). All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Full-coloured, with a professionals and are compared in peer floral, spicy bouquet, classes by three judges. it is medium-bodied, CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, with vibrant, berryish, a major mail-order business. spicy flavours, savoury CD Cellar door price. notes adding complexity, CDO Cellar door only. and supple tannins. An SO Sold out. elegant style, it should $N/A Price not available at time of printing. be at its best 2021+. $56  Contact information pg 119 -120. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under and NZ $25 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 95

Our Whenua Single Vineyard wines are a signature of the land and our love for it. As tangata whenua of Te Tauihu at the top of the South Island, we honour our ancestry, our environment and our future. To h u w i n e s . c o . n z

recent releases Thomas Waiheke Tohu Single ½ Rapaura Springs Island Blanc de Gris Vineyard Whenua Reserve Central 2017 HHHH Matua Upper Allan Scott Otago Pinot Noir This vivacious Waiheke Moutere Nelson Marlborough 2018 HHH1/2 Island sparkling is a Albariño 2018 HHHH Chardonnay This ruby hued, vibrant, distinctive blend of Drinking well now, 2018 HHH1/2 supple red was matured pinot gris (78%) and this characterful wine This fresh, vibrantly in French and Hungarian flora (22%), made by is bright, light yellow/ fruity wine was oak. Still youthful, it the charmat process. green, with very good fermented in French oak has a very satisfying Very fresh and aromatic, depth of stonefruit and puncheons and wood- depth of fresh, ripe it is crisp and lively, spice flavours, slightly aged for eight months. cherry, plum and spice with vibrant, pear-like toasty notes adding Light lemon/green, with flavours, showing some flavours, slightly citrusy complexity, and a crisp, a citrusy bouquet, it savoury complexity, and and spicy, lees-aging dryish finish. $28 has lively grapefruit and a smooth finish. Best notes adding a touch Tohu Single peach flavours, slightly drinking mid-2020+. $33 of complexity, and an Vineyard Whenua biscuity notes adding Rapaura off-dry, finely balanced Matua Upper complexity, balanced Springs Reserve finish. $46 Moutere Nelson acidity and good depth. Marlborough Pinot Tohu Single Pinot Noir $18 (A,UK) Noir 2018 HHH1/2 Vineyard Whenua 2017 HHHH Black Cottage Already enjoyable, this Awa Awatere This elegant red is ruby Reserve regional blend was Valley Marlborough hued, with a fragrant, Marlborough handled with French Riesling 2018 HHHH savoury bouquet. Chardonnay and Hungarian oak. Attractively scented Medium-bodied, it has 2017 HHH1/2 Ruby hued, it is a fresh, and lively, this fresh, lots of current-drinking Priced right, this wine supple, medium-bodied generous, estate-grown appeal, with ripe cherry, was hand-picked in the red with well-ripened wine is already drinking spice and nut flavours, Wairau Valley (mostly) cherry, plum and spice well. Bright, light gentle tannins and a and the Southern flavours, nutty, savoury lemon/green, it has well-rounded, very Valleys. Bright, light notes adding complexity, peachy, slightly gingery harmonious finish. $30 lemon/green, it is gentle tannins and flavours, with a sliver Urlar Gladstone drinking well now, a very smooth, of sweetness balanced Sauvignon Blanc with fresh, vibrant, harmonious finish. $29 by appetising acidity, 2018 HHHH grapefruit-like flavours, Ruru Central Otago and excellent vibrancy, Certified organic, this savoury notes adding Chardonnay harmony and depth. $28 youthful wine was partly complexity, and a 2018 HHH1/2 barrel-fermented. Bright, creamy-smooth finish. Enjoyable young, light lemon/green, it is $20 (A, UK, US) this single-vineyard, tightly structured, with Jackson Estate Alexandra wine was strong, peachy, limey, Alayna Marlborough matured for nine herbal flavours, barrel- Pinot Noir Rosé months in French oak ferment notes adding 2018 HHH1/2 barrels. Bright, light complexity, and a crisp, Pink/orange, this is a yellow, it is full-bodied lingering finish. Best full-bodied, basically and well-rounded, with drinking mid-2020+. $25 dry style with strong, ripe, peachy, slightly (A, UK, US) peachy, strawberryish, toasty flavours, showing Volcanic Hills slightly spicy flavours considerable complexity, Hawke’s Bay and a rounding finish. and a creamy-smooth Chardonnay Ready to roll. $21 (A, UK) finish. $24 2017 HHHH Enjoyable now, this  fully barrel-fermented wine was oak-matured Allan Scott for 10 months. Bright, Marlborough Rosé light yellow/green, it is 2019 HHH medium to full-bodied, This easy-drinking wine with strong, citrusy, is pale pink, scented peachy, slightly toasty and lively, with peachy, flavours, showing good strawberryish flavours, complexity, and a crisp, a gentle splash of lively finish. $30 sweetness, balanced acidity and a fresh, smooth finish. $18 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 97

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN OTAGO (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) CRACKING SPOT FOR LUNCH CHANGING FACE OF visitor nights annually with an expanding REMARKABLES PARK events calendar that attracts domestic ONE of the newer spots to enjoy a leisurely and overseas visitors. We expect this lunch in the Central Otago winelands is the INTERNATIONAL hotel chain IHG will momentum to continue and are confident former Walnut Cottage, built in 1870, now open a new Holiday Inn in Queenstown’s that Holiday Inn Queenstown Remarkables a joint venture between Akarua Wines and Remarkables Park following the signing of Park will contribute to that success.” Kitchen by Artisan. an agreement with property owner QLong Investments Limited. The hotel will make a significant The brainchild of John and Debbie contribution to the growth of Remarkables Pickens, of Artisan Catering in Set to open its doors in early 2021, Park, adding a unique point of difference to Queenstown, and the Skeggs Family, of Holiday Inn Queenstown Remarkables the 150ha multi-use retail, resort, residential Akarua Wines in Bannockburn, the eatery Park will be a flagship for Holiday Inn in and recreational zone. The Holiday Inn overlooks Lake Hayes. New Zealand. The 182-room build will be will be located a few hundred metres conveniently located within a few minutes from the retail and commercial centre of Named for the walnut tree outside its from Queenstown airport and close to the the park, which is currently home to 65 front door, Walnut Cottage was built in the Remarkables ski field. It will feature an all- businesses. There are also plans to add 1870s as the office for the local Wakatipu day dining and bar venue, as well as large student accommodation, more residential, a Flour Mill and has seen many changes as meeting facilities and a gym for guests. retirement village, childcare, a hospital, and the area around Queenstown has grown a jet ferry service connecting Remarkables in popularity over the past 150 years. The Abhijay Sandilya, IHG’s senior director Quay to Queenstown Bay and parks and menu highlights shared plates, including of development for Australasia, said: trails. Remarkables ski fields is one of confit duck or lamb shoulder, as well “Holiday Inn is famous for bringing special New Zealand’s premier ski resorts and is a as individual dishes like roast beetroot experiences to guests around the globe. 30-minute drive away, while Jack’s Point Golf with black quinoa and barley, pickled With a company focus on growing our Course is just a short drive from the hotel. beetroot, smoked yoghurt, charred onion brands into regional areas, we are thrilled to and coriander, seafood chowder or partner with QLong Investments to bring a IHG currently has 47 hotels operating slow-braised pinot noir beef cheek with stunning new Holiday Inn to New Zealand. under four brands in Australasia, including: pappardelle, portobello mushrooms and Our existing hotels in Queenstown are InterContinental, Crowne Plaza, Holiday grana Padano. The artisan platter features performing extremely well, and this new Inn, voco and Holiday Inn Express, with locally-sourced cheeses and fruits, and Holiday Inn will complement them perfectly, another 29 in the pipeline, including Hotel all dishes can be paired with a range of along with the upcoming Holiday Inn Indigo and EVEN Hotels. estate wines. The restaurant is open seven Express which will open in 2020.” days from 9am-5pm, with the cellar door FLAGSHIP STATUS offering tastings from 11am-5pm. Visit Yigang Wang, Director of QLong www.akaruaandartisan.co.nz. Investments, said: “Queenstown is a tourism QUEENSTOWN’S newest boutique mecca, attracting more than 3.6 million accommodation is Kamana Lakehouse opened earlier this year following a multi- million-dollar development. Kamana Lakehouse is signalled to be the flagship for future new Kamana properties, with the brand positioned as an independent boutique hotel group. The new property sits on the site of the former Aspen Hotel, located high above Lake Wakatipu, in the Aspen Grove area. Interiors of the 73 en-suite rooms feature contemporary designs, quality beds, plush furnishings and luxury amenities. The living space, at the centre of the property, has been transformed into an intimate social space featuring lounge areas 98 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

travelbriefs with uniquely designed fireplaces and floor- BOTANIC GARDENS SETTING by a large kitchen garden managed to-ceiling windows overlooking a wrap-around under organic principles. deck, the lake and mountains beyond. HERITAGE Dunedin Leisure Lodge is now a member of the Heritage Hotel Group. Sherwood founder/director Adam Smith At the heart of this space sits Nest The hotel is next to the southern city’s said: “We believe kaitiakitanga (the Maori Kitchen and Bar featuring a circular Art beautiful botanic gardens, close to the philosophy of environmental guardianship) Deco-style bar clad in brass, marble CBD and within walking distance of the and a simple respect for nature, lie at the finishes and metal accents that deliver a Forsyth Barr Event Stadium. Set in 1ha of heart of any sustainable practice. “This European mountain lodge feel. park-like grounds, the hotel has 76 hotel philosophy has underpinned every choice rooms, the popular McGavins Restaurant we’ve made - from the approach taken to The interior design, brand positioning and Bar and two versatile conference the hotel’s refurbishment, to key operational and restaurant are all inspired by the facilities on site - the McGavin Room and decisions such as where we draw our Kamana bird and its natural habitat. Also the historic Oast House. energy from and how we treat our waste. known as the Crested Grebe, it is a diving Our natural environment and landscape bird native to New Zealand’s southern The hotel is Qualmark four-star-rated are the reason the vast majority of people lakes region, including Queenstown. and also offers free car parking, Sky TV choose to live and travel here, so for us and wifi. The property, which dates back it’s just common sense that we operate General manager Richard Crouch, who to 1978, was designed by award-winning our business in a way that will protect and was previously Aspen Hotel’s GM, says the architects Warren and Mahoney, and is on enhance it for generations to come.” location has finally reached its potential. the former site of the McGavin Brewery “The location here with panoramic views which brewed its last beer in 1958. The This has been overlaid with the business’s across Lake Wakatipu is spectacular and brewery was re-located to the Speights parallel value of manaakitanga, showing our product is allowing guests to engage Brewery in 1971, but to honour the rich respect and generosity towards others. The with that in a real way.” He said. “These history of the site, the stone Oast House hotel kept an existing building instead of views are what attracted Alison Laity and (a former malting kiln) was redeveloped as creating a new one and refurbished the hotel her team at Colwall Property Investment in a popular conference venue suitable for with the lowest impact materials possible. the first instance, inspiring them to create corporate meetings and weddings. the Kamana Lakehouse.” Solar power is used and 99 per cent of the Heritage Hotel Management manage a food served is sourced from New Zealand Crouch says Kamana Lakehouse reflects range of four-star-plus properties in New (of which 75 per cent is from the South Queenstown’s spirit of adventure, at the Zealand. Combined with the Heritage Island) and over 40 per cent of the green same time offering a comfortable retreat Collection, this group has 19 hotels produce is grown in their own kitchen garden in an elegant setting. across 15 top New Zealand locations. Visit under organic principles, along with honey heritagehotels.co.nz. collected from their own beehives. All organic “The room decor is modern with a high waste is composted and returned back level of attention to detail, including WORLD RANKING into the kitchen garden soil to grow more modern connectivity, excellent bedding food, while single-use plastics have largely comfort and small indulgent touches such INTERNATIONAL travel group Expedia been eliminated from the supply chain. Visit as the Real World New Zealand-made has included the Sherwood Queenstown sherwoodqueenstown.nz. natural body care products.” in its list of the best sustainable hotel choices around the world. Sherwood, a Opposite page top left: Outdoor dining at Akarua. He predicts Nest Kitchen and Bar self-described community hotel, situated on Opposite page top right: Remarkables Park Hotel. “will surely become Queenstown’s next 1.2ha of rolling alpine hillside overlooking Top left: Kamana exterior view. Top right: Kamana interior hot spot, perfect for a beautiful modern Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown, was one of view. Below: Sherwood Queenstown room. Mediterranean al fresco meal, an apres-ski only two hotels in the southern hemisphere cocktail, or a get together with friends.” to be included. Head chef Juan Pablo Aravena previously The 80-room hotel features an award- worked at Millhouse at Millbrook. His menu winning restaurant, bar and music venue, ranges from calamari and saffron sliders yoga studio, film production and co- to beef and pork koftas, watermelon and working facilities and is complemented fetta salad, and gourmet pizzas. Visit www. kamana.co.nz. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 99

OTAGO - Centr al O ta g o & Wa it a k i Va lley 57 TASTED Central Otago & Waitaki Valley 57 RECOMMENDED OTA G O Central Otago (together with the Waitaki Valley, in North Otago) Carrick Valli Gibbston is New Zealand’s second best-known wine region – behind only Bannockburn Vineyard Central Marlborough – on the world stage, but accounts for just five per Central Otago Otago Pinot Gris cent of the country’s planted vineyard area. Its high profile reflects Chardonnay 2018 HHHH1/2 the eye-catching success of the region’s enticingly perfumed, 2017 HHHH Finely scented, this increasingly complex and ageworthy pinot noirs. Certified organic, this youthful wine was hand-picked wine was estate-grown, hand- After a warm spring, record mid-summer heat and a wet end to barrel-fermented with picked and handled the season, 2018 yielded a record harvest in Central Otago, both indigenous yeasts and without oak. Pale lemon/ in terms of crop size and early-ripening. The region’s 2018 whites bottled unfined and green, it is fresh and and pinot noirs offer delicious, early drinking. The major finding of unfiltered. Bright, light weighty, with substantial this tasting, however, was the outstanding quality of the reds from yellow/green, it is full- body, pure stonefruit, the low-cropping, very cool and late-ripening 2017 vintage. bodied, with strong, pear, lychee and spice peachy, toasty, slightly flavours, showing These aren’t cheap wines (there’s nothing here, white or red, buttery flavours and a excellent delicacy and below $NZ20), but their overall standard was exceptional. crisp, dry finish. Best depth, and a basically drinking 2020+. $39 (UK) dry finish. Best drinking Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available 2021+. $30 (A, US) in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) and (US). PINOT GRIS Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Gris CHARDONNAY Brennan Gibbston Wild Earth Central 6 TASTED 2018 HHHH1/2 Central Otago Otago Chardonnay 6 RECOMMENDED Fresh and full-bodied, 3 TASTED Chardonnay 2018 HHHH1/2 this classy, youthful 3 RECOMMENDED 2018 HHHH1/2 This extroverted but Pinot gris is easily blend of Gibbston Full of youthful drive, ageworthy wine was Otago’s most heavily (85%) and Bannockburn Chardonnay trails pinot this tightly structured, grown at Pisa and planted white-wine (15%) fruit was partly gris and riesling in estate-grown wine Bendigo - districts of variety, yielding vibrant, handled in old French Otago, in terms of its was barrel-fermented the Cromwell Basin aromatic white wines oak barrels. Light lemon/ planted vineyard area, and lees-aged. Bright, – and fermented with with pure, delicate, green, it has strong, but the quality of the light yellow/green, it is indigenous yeasts pear and lychee flavours vibrant pear, lychee and latest releases suggests full-bodied, with ripe in French oak casks threaded with lively, spice flavours, showing chardonnay has a strong stonefruit and toasty (15% new). Fragrant finely balanced acidity. a distinct touch of future in the deep south. oak flavours, showing and full-bodied, it has complexity, excellent impressive complexity strong, vibrant, peachy Misha’s Vineyard vigour, and a dry, finely and depth, fresh acidity, flavours, slightly toasty Dress Circle Central balanced finish. Best and a finely balanced, and creamy notes Otago Pinot Gris drinking 2021+. $28 (US) lengthy finish. Best adding complexity, and 2018 HHHHH Brennan Gibbston drinking 2021+. $33 fresh acidity. Already Full of youthful vigour, Central Otago Pinot highly approachable, it this attractive scented, Grigio 2018 HHHH JUDGED BY should be at its best weighty, dryish wine Estate-grown, this 2021+. $32 was partly (22%) freshly aromatic wine Michael Cooper fermented with is full-bodied, crisp and Winestate’s New Zealand editor indigenous yeasts in lively, with strong peach, is author of the internationally old French oak barrels. pear and spice flavours, acclaimed Wine Atlas of Bright, light lemon/ appetising acidity and a New Zealand and the annual green, it is full-bodied dryish, finely balanced New Zealand Wines: Michael and fleshy, with strong, finish. Drink now or Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide, now vibrant peach, pear, cellar. $27 in its 27th edition. In the 2004 apple and spice flavours, New Year Honours, Michael a distinct touch of was appointed an Officer of the complexity, and lovely New Zealand Order of Merit for delicacy and harmony. services to wine writing. $28 (A) 100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019