Winestate Magazine May June 2016

MAY/JUNE 2016 WINESTATE VOL 39 ISSUE 3 BEST OF THE WEST SOUTH AFRICA SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDS ADELAIDE HILLS CENTRAL & WESTERN NSW NORTH ISLAND, NZ PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE PLAYING IT COOL JewelA new in the WINE CROWN Making the Most of a CHINA CONNECTION NEW RELEASES 273 TASTED ADELAIDE HILLS 166 TASTED BEST OF THE WEST 233 TASTED CENTRAL & WESTERN NSW 172 TASTED NORTHERN STARS May/June 2016 Vol 39 Issue 3 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Central & Western NSW • Sweet White & Fortified • Adelaide Hills • South Africa • North Island (Gisborne, Auckland & Northland) NZ

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NO.276 MAY/JUNE 2016 Worth the wait.Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected]: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright2016byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au www.reschke.com.au May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 5

contentsMAY/JUNE 2016FEATURES 2828 A NEW JEWEL IN THE 38 NORTHERN STARS R E G U L A R S WINE CROWN With more than 30 per cent of Could a compact valley 260km New Zealand’s wine producers 10 Briefs south east of Perth be Australia’s huddled into the North Island’s four 18 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper next wine gem? Robert Olde, grape growing regions - Northland, 20 European Report with Sally Easton the driving force behind Latitude Wairarapa, Auckland and Gisborne 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley 34, based in Western Australia’s - they only bottle 7 per cent of 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Blackwood Valley thinks so, writes the nation’s wine, writes Michael 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankel Mike Zekulich. Olde is one of 50 Cooper. But the region’s strength 46 Grapevine grape growers in the region who now lies in the hands of growers 52 Wine Words have been taking giant strides in the experimenting with alternative 54 Wine Investment & Collecting premium shiraz and cabernet wine grape varieties. 135 Subscription Form market during the last few years. 138 Aftertaste 3834 120 New Releases 40 PLAYING IT COOL 130 Best Value Buys under $2034 MAKING THE MOST OF A It might appear to have been an CHINA CONNECTION ‘overnight success story’, reports W I N E TAST I N G S China looms large in the future Dan Traucki, but growers in the 64 Best of the West plans for Adelaide-based Tomich cool-climate wine region in the 78 Central & Western NSW Wines, says Nigel Hopkins. Adelaide Hills have been hard at 86 South Africa The family-run operation, which work for the last 30 years. Initially 92 Adelaide Hills assumed ‘major-player’ status in riesling, pinot noir and chardonnay 100 Sweet Whites & Fortifieds 2010 after it opened a cellar door on were the grapes of choice for early 106 North Island, NZ one of the city’s main thoroughfares, growers, but it was the introduction 110 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases has now forged lucrative links with of sauvignon blanc in the late China. Since 2012 Tomich has gone 1990s that cemented its reputation. For a complete list of what we tasted for this from exporting two wine containers Today more than 50 wineries call issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au a year to several a month and is the Adelaide Hills home and they now embarking on a multi-million produce some of the nation’s most dollar food and beverage deal with exciting cool-climate wines. a leading Chinese supermarket. Winestate Magazine6 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016 Issue Number 276 May/June 2016 Cover photograph Natalia Klenova



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editorialMAY IS ALWAYS a great time for the wine industry. The grapeshave been crushed, the wine is in the tank, or barrel, and expectationsof vintage have come to fruition. This year we have had some verygood reports from the southern and western states with some sayingthat the whites are exceptional and reds have excellent colour and willoffer fine elegant drinking rather than power. More of this in our vintagereport to come. In this issue we have our annual Adelaide Hills and Central & WesternNSW overviews; two of the noted genuine cool climate regions in Australia.Here we see crisp elegant wines with the whites, and at their best, vibrantmid weight reds that offer a foil to their bigger cousins from the warmerregions. One of our biggest judgings of the year comes from our Best of the West state tasting of Western Australianwines. Here we run the gamut of rich and powerful wines from the north to austere vibrant wines from the deepsouth, with Margaret and Frankland Rivers in the middle, offering great examples of chardonnay, cabernet andsauvignon blanc blends. This year we suffered from an earlier vintage and the fires between Perth and MargaretRiver which affected a number of wineries and their submissions. We thank those who persevered and put theirwines in the tasting. Still many great wines to choose from. For our New Zealand section Michael Cooper and his panel evaluate the wines of North island, around Aucklandand beyond, with Michael also giving his judgement on the latest Recent Releases. And speaking of New Releasesour Australian panel also did a fine job of reviewing 273 of the latest wines available (with 149 recommended). Our style tasting panel had the pleasure of tasting sweet whites and fortifieds, including some of the world’sfinest examples. It is staggering how this group of wines seems to be a dwindling number, yet they offer so much.At the very least readers should consider having one bottle at home for an after dinner drink that lierally “putsicing on the cake”. Beyond the many tasting results that we offer check out the great panel articles by our regular contributors whooffer a wealth of wine information. Then the auction reports give information on “what’s hot and what’s not” for thoseinterested in investing. Even if the prices go down you still have the wine to drink. Skye Murtagh interviews “the Silver Fox,” Ray King, of Mildara and Wynns fame, who gives his forthright viewson the current wine market, whilst Elisabeth King takes a look at how millennials are changing the marketplacefor wine today. Market your wines to the world!Lots to read and lots to note down for your next wine purchase. Cheers! Join the Australian Wine Industry Export and Buyers mission to Verona in 2015 Peter Simic Editor/Publisher Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March 2015Major Sponsors and Supporters The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready companies and for buyers sourcing international wines. Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyers sourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western and Eastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America. Your wine,The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne is our ports.the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to Australian wine industry professionals attending the show: - Space and stand bookings at preferential rates - Flight bookings and confirmed accommAoduastitornaliinaVerona - Logistics Export Customer Service - Visitor registration 1300 134 096 ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes anEdqfuaicpilmitaetenstcoanntdacLt boegtwiseteicns the Italian and Australian wine industries and pro1vi3d0es0tr1a3de5s8er0v1ices for the wine industry: market research, businIemsspliostrintgCs,ubsutsoinmeses rmSatecrhvinicgeand 1300 132 813 appointment agendas. For more information contact: New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Inbound - 0508 333 666 Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 No matter what. E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsSPLASHING OUT PROMISING STARTCASELLA Wines - or Casella Family Brands as it is now known - started THE future of the Greek white grape variety assyrtiko, which isthe year with a bang paying more than $9 million in late January so far promising, will rely on just one family. And that’s the Barryfor The Howcroft Vineyards, a 540ha property near Bordertown. winemaking family who brought the grape to Australia from its homeComprising two separate parcels of vines, it is considered one of the on the island of Santorini. Peter Barry, of Jim Barry Wines in thebiggest vineyards in the Limestone Coast wine region. Clare Valley, happened upon the grape while on holiday in Santorini in 2006. He liked what he saw and in 2008 brought back cuttings, The purchase follows Casella’s December ’15 acquisition of waited while they went through quarantine and then planted theBrand’s Laira business and winery in Coonawarra from McWilliam’s grape on “good goat country” in 2012, leaving them as bushvinesWines and the 2014 expansion into the Barossa Valley with the (no trellising). The first release in 2014 was all the winemaker could$57 million purchase of Peter Lehmann Wines. Casella, which only have hoped for. But Barry is very protective of his grape and nofour years ago had slumped into the red, appears to be back on Australian winemaker will be allowed to source it for their owntrack with big expansion objectives. Plans are in place to lift case vineyard. “With assyrtiko we control the clone we selected andsales of Brands Laira over the next decade to more than 250,000 imported,” he says. “If we supply cuttings to a winemaker it will becases of wine from its current production of 70,000. The Howcroft to someone we know will be committed to the variety, not someoneacquisition will also aid the Griffith-based maker which exports 90 who is looking for a marketing opportunity. They would not be ableper cent of its annual production. to supply cuttings or propagate from these vines.” Quality, he says, has to be the key to the variety as it starts its new life in Australia.WEATHER TAKES ITS TOLL PROCESS BUBBLING AWAYWILD weather, flooding rains and days of 35C-plus brought adramatic start to the 2016 vintage across Australian wine regions. THE Italian sparkling grape process continues its upward salesVineyards in the Frankland River were deluged with more than trajectory in Australia. In 2011, the number of Australians drinking80mm of rain in just two days in mid January. Parts of Margaret the vivacious sparkling was five per cent. Today it is now 14 perRiver and Geographe were also affected. Fruit splitting saw cent and rising.some grapes lost. Geographe winemakers also had to withstandthe devastating Waroona bushfire in early January in which 52properties were lost. Smoke and ash from the fire fell 120kmssouth in the Margaret River wine region. January rains and botrytisdisease were a major concern for Murray Valley Winegrowers.Adding to their woes was an imminent harvest - limiting spraysthat could be applied to prevent botrytis. Fungal diseases wereon the minds of winemakers across the eastern side of Australiaafter heavy rainfalls late January were followed by high humidityin the Hunter Valley, Rutherglen and Gippsland.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32710 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

briefs Sales figures relate to both the Italian original that hails from the good years, 2010 is a great year, 2013 and 2015 are very goodnorth-east of the country, notably the Veneto, and the Australian and 2014 is a potentially great year,” he says. “We’ve had thestyle pioneered by the Italian-born Otto Dal Zotto of Dal Zotto most consistent run of quality wines made from the 1997 to 2015Wines in the King Valley. vintages - apart from the very wet 2011 harvest - which was mostly during the drought and most were very hot years. This tells me that The success of the grape outside Italy has led to some heated as long as Tahbilk has adequate access to water, which it has andwords from the Italians. In 2009 they changed wine laws to make will continue to have, then these two varieties should continue toprocess the name of the wine region rather than grape. Glera is make very good quality wines at Tahbilk.”now the official grape’s name. In 2013, Australian winemakersdefeated a European Union move to prohibit them from using the EXPORT ENCOURAGEMENTword “process” on their labels, successfully arguing that it hadbeen in common use here for decades as the name of the grape A WEAKENED Australian dollar has come to the rescue ofvariety. Still, the Italians remain unhappy. Recently, the director Australian wine producers, returning smiles to their faces andof the Process DOC Consortium, Stefano Zanette, hit out at what general happiness to their bottom lines. It has been labelled ahe has labelled imposters. “Many imitators are jumping on the remarkable recovery - the value of wine exports increasing 14process bandwagon,” he told an international drinks magazine per cent to $2.1 billion in 2015. Indeed, for the first time in 20in November. “Imposters marketing themselves as prosecco are years the value of Australian wine exports has grown across allbeing produced all over the world, from Australia to Brazil. Why Top 15 markets, notably China, Japan and Korea. China recordedisn’t Australian prosecco sold with other Australian wines? Why the strongest growth of 66 per cent to $370 million. The signingis it put on the shelf with Italian wines? Why is that very often, of new free trade agreements with Japan, Korea and China isin the labelling of the product, reference is made to Italy or the regarded as a valuable tool in assisting the industry’s recovery.‘Italianness’ of the producers?” “It’s a strong signal that we are on the path to see a revitalised and more prosperous sector,” said Brian Walsh, chairman of WineNOT ALL BAD NEWS Australia, on the strong export performance.COMING to terms with climate change will see Australianwinemakers face new challenges. But what if it wasn’t all badnews? The seven warmest years ever recorded globally havenow been identified: 1998, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2013, 2014 and2015. Victorian winemaker Alister Purbrick at Tahbilk had onelook at those numbers when they were released in January bythe US National Atmospheric and Oceanic Administration andimmediately saw a connection between them and vintage datesin which some great shiraz and cabernet sauvignon were made.“For Tahbilk, 1998 was a great year, 2005 and 2009 were very May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsA TASTE OF HISTORY growers and winemakers,” he said. “We welcome the recognition of the wine sector’s contribution to the Australian economy.” TheFRESH from re-opening the Kaesler Kitchen restaurant, the Barossa report, Economic Contribution of the Australian Wine Sector, wasValley winery has launched a new food and wine offering - the compiled by AgEconPlus and Gillespie Economics.Kaesler Old Vine Vineyard Tour. More than 70 per cent of thered wines produced by Kaesler are made from vines more than BAROSSA BENCHMARK50 years old and some of the vineyard plantings date back to1893. The Kaesler Old Vine Vineyard Tour gives visitors a unique FROM the time William Salter planted vines in 1859, he meticulouslyopportunity to get up close to these old vines and to learn why they kept a journal to record his vineyard and winemaking activities,are such an important part of the Barossa winemaking tradition. including techniques that are still used to make the Saltram winesThe tour comprises a 30-45-minute walking tour of old vine shiraz, today. The new release 2010 Saltram the Journal Centenariansemillon, grenache and palomino vineyards, including visiting Shiraz was sourced from the Schultz vineyard situated within thethe gnarled vines of the 1893 Old Bastard Vineyard, followed by Mount McKenzie area of Eden Valley. The vineyard was plantedeither a three-course lunch in Kaesler Kitchen, pairing the wines in 1901 and sits at an elevation of 472m above sea level. Thisproduced from these old vines ($120 per person) or a wine tasting wine is classified as a “centenarian” under the Barossa Old Vinein the Kaesler cellar door of the wines produced from the old vines charter due to the vine age exceeding 100 years. Hand-picked($40 per person). The tours are available Fridays and Saturdays from very low-yielding vines and made by Shavaughn Wells, theat 11.30am or other times by appointment. wine is designed as a benchmark Barossa release and retails for $175 per bottle.PLAYING ITS PART ROBERTS IN CONTROLINDEPENDENT economic research commissioned by WineAustralia has quantified the direct and indirect contribution of the HIGHLY acclaimed Clare Valley producer Claymore Wines hasAustralian wine sector to the national economy. The Australian wine announced Marnie Roberts has joined the company as its newsector - defined as wine grape growing, winemaking and wine- winemaker in time for the 2016 vintage. Roberts has worked atrelated tourism - supports 172,736 full and part-time jobs, most of wineries including Buronga Hill, Salisbury, Haselgrove and Kirrihill,which are located in regional Australia. It also contributes $40.2 as well as doing a stint in the Sonoma Valley. She studied Oenologybillion to the value of gross output to the Australian economy. Gross at Charles Sturt University and is looking forward to taking overoutput includes $19.7 billion in value (value-added or the difference the winemaking reins at Claymore. Claymore Wines generalbetween the cost of goods and their sale price) and $10.4 billion manager Carissa Major says: “Our wines must exhibit a sensein wages and salaries from full and part-time employment. These of place, epitomising the sites where the grapes are grown, andfigures do not capture margins on wine sales through wholesale, the beauty of our region. Additionally, we seek integrated textureretail and restaurant sales. Wine Australia CEO Andreas Clark and mouth-feel, fruit, and balance in all our wines. Marnie has thewelcomed the clear evidence of the wine sector’s contribution to same instinctual approach towards wine and winemaking on allthe Australian economy. “Wine is a unique, high-quality product these issues.” Claymore Wines began in 1997 and now producescreated in Australia’s 65 wine regions by highly skilled wine grape in excess of 15,000 cases of premium Clare Valley wine each year.12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

briefsCELEBRATING LOCAL TRUFFLES MAKING AN ENVIRONMENTAL CONTRIBUTIONFONTY'S Pool in Manjimup, Western Australia, is the venue for TRACTORLESS Vineyards, a recent addition to the vineyard ranksthe Truffle Kerfuffle festival, which celebrates the start of the in the New South Wales Southern Highlands, is leading the way inrenowned black truffle season in the Southern Forests. The event is sustainable viticulture. With the help of Eling Forest winemakinga showcase for what is the third most expensive food in the world. services and a newly installed solar power system, plus the usePrized for its rarity as well as its beguiling aroma, more than 70 per of Australian-made low-carbon bottles and sustainable grapecent of premium black truffles produced in Australia come from production, Tractorless Vineyards is the first producer of carbon-the Southern Forests. As the largest producer of black truffle in the negative wine in the Southern Highlands. Founded by Jeff Aston,southern hemisphere the small town of Manjimup and the Southern Mark Bourne and Ian MacDonald, three local winemakers withForests has secured its place on the international culinary map. a passion for sustainable farming, Tractorless Vineyards strivesTruffle Kerfuffle president Jeremy Beissel said: “We are proud to say to limit its environmental impact at every stage of the grapethat Truffle Kerfuffle has grown from humble beginnings to become growing and winemaking process. “By running our vineyardsone of the most unique regional food events in WA. Showcasing the biodynamically we can save up to nine tonnes of carbonregion that we live and work in, there’s few like it. Last year we had each year, as we work towards a more long-term sustainablerecord numbers on site and this year we’re confident that we’ve production model for cool-climate wines,” says Aston.got a winning event that will make locals proud.” Truffle Kerfufflestarted in 2011 and features truffle hunters in search of prized The Tractorless Vineyard name comes from the black-facedtruffles, truffle dog demonstrations, wine tastings, local markets woolly lawn mowers at the McVitty Grove vineyard, outsideand master classes with locally and nationally celebrated chefs. Mittagong. “Our use of an old English sheep breed calledIt runs from June 24 to June 26. See www.trufflekerfuffle.com.au. Hampshire Downs in the vineyards during the growing season has eliminated the use of herbicides, reduced the need to mow vineyard rows and remove excess shoots from vines, at the same time as adding a touch of natural fertiliser,” says Aston. “Every time our woolly workers are in the vineyard we are saving 100kg of carbon.” Launched in 2013, Tractorless Vineyards celebrated the opening of its new cellar door in February at 434 Wombeyan Caves Rd, Mittagong. GOURMET DESTINATION PORT Macquarie may seem like an unlikely gourmet destination, but the New South Wales North Coast resort has some hip new places to eat, drink, stay and play. “Couples will love the vibrant nightlife in Port Macquarie as a plethora of new wine bars have opened up and there are now two hatted restaurants, Fusion 7 and the Stunned Mullet,” said Liesa Davies, group manager for economic development at Port Macquarie-Hastings Council. “Fusion 7 was awarded its first hat in the Australian Good Food Guide awards, a huge accolade to chef Lindsey Schwab whose Asian-influenced dishes have been a local secret for almost a decade.” Sails Resort Port Macquarie by Rydges has completed a $15m renovation and the 4.5 star Observatory has won the nation’s top award for Excellence in Sustainable Tourism at the annual Australian Tourism Awards. Newcomers include Bar Florian, a retro-Italian-themed wine bar with cured meats, cheese platters, a variety of fine wines and music, and The Latin Loafer, a wine bar overlooking the Hastings River, with a blend of Latin American and Spanish food, wine and cocktails. The tapas menu is perfect for sharing with friends. Also new is Drury Lane Eatery, where a wholesome and creative menu features local Near River produce, Bellingen smokehouse salmon and house-baked bread. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs Venny. “The team and I will continue to draw on Chandon’s rich heritage, depth of winemaking experience and spirit of innovation to craft wines of expressive distinction, bringing to life Chandon’s spirited vision.”GEMS ADD A NEW SPARKLE CHANGE OF DIRECTIONNINE of Australia’s most iconic and historic wine producers THE Angove family celebrated a successful release in August- Coldstream Hills, Devil’s Lair, Seppelt, T’Gallant, Saltram, of the new, uber-luxury St Agnes XO Grand Reserve 40-Year-Heemskerk, Baileys of Glenrowan, St Huberts and Leo Buring - are Old, St Agnes XO Imperial 20-Year-Old and refreshed St Agnesbeing reinvigorated and given a renewed focus in the hands of a XO 15-Year-Old range of brandies. Now the family has releasednew, dedicated team by owner Treasury Wine Estates. Under the upgraded packaging for its market-leading St Agnes VS and VSOPdirection of general manager Christian Sim, the Regional Gems brandies. Marketing manager Matt Redin said it was deemed agroup has been given the freedom by parent company TWE to necessity to upgrade the look to appeal to a new, more craft-innovate and the independence to grow independently. “Regional oriented consumer base if St Agnes was to grow further. TheGems can offer a one-stop-shop for the best of Australian regional brandies now come in more premium-looking proprietary bottleswines,” Sim said. “We see great potential to grow these brands featuring a modified St Agnes logo with new capsules. Since 1925overseas and our ambition is to export up to 50 per cent of the every bottle of St Agnes brandy has been crafted at the Renmark,wines across the portfolio. We have already committed to a 40 per South Australia, distillery with only five master distillers learning,cent increase in vintage intake for 2016 to support our growth plans. practising and passing on their artisan skills in that time.Other changes include a commitment to stepping up promotion, agreater focus on building relationships with local communities to CELEBRATING EQUALITY AND INCLUSIONshowcase the wines and wine regions, and an innovative approachto winemaking that celebrates the varieties best suited to a region, YELLOWGLEN’S Yellow Brut Cuvee sparkling wine has taken on allwhich will see some exciting new wines released.” colours of the rainbow in a dramatic new look. Yellowglen's limited- edition Rainbow Celebration Pack features the bold rainbow stripesCALIFORNIA CALLING of the pride flag. Creative director Samantha Wills championed the introduction of the limited edition wine, saying: “Yellowglen isTHERE have been key changes at Domaine Chandon in the an icon of Australian celebration, a brand that stands for joy andYarra Valley, with the appointment of a new estate director. After empowerment, and has inspired generations of Australians with itsover 12 years with Domaine Chandon Australia, former estate approachable, fun-loving style. This limited edition is a bright anddirector Susan Caudry has exchanged the Yarra Valley for the colourful reflection of our values and our celebration of equalityNapa Valley and taken the post of estate director for Domaine and inclusion.” The bubbly has an RRP of $12.99.Chandon California. “It has been a genuine privilege to work at aspectacular site with a team fully committed to making Australia’s HEALTH ISSUES FORCE BEZEMER OUTfinest sparkling wine,” said Caudry. “I depart with some sadness,but excited to work with our ‘cousins’ in California.” Succeeding THERE have been a number of changes at Pipers Brook VineyardCaudry as estate director is Shaine De Venny, who joins Domaine just ahead of the 2016 vintage. Rene Bezemer, the chief winemakerChandon Australia from Hong Kong, where she was managing who would have been participating in his 27th vintage, has stooddirector of Moet Hennessy Diageo Hong Kong. Prior to moving to down from his role due to health issues that have plagued him overHong Kong, De Venny was general manager of the Moet Hennessy the past 12 months. Bezemer quit just weeks after Pipers BrookDiageo business in Singapore. “After 10 years abroad I am thrilled enjoyed great success at the 2016 Tasmanian Wine Show. “Reneto be returning home and to assume custodianship at one of the Bezemer’s contribution to the success of Pipers Brook Vineyardmost iconic sparkling wine producers in the country,” said De over the past three decades cannot be overstated,” said John Hosken, CEO of parent company Kreglinger. “His story is very much one of a local boy made good. Born and raised at George Town - less than 50km from Pipers Brook Vineyard - Bezemer first stepped on to the property as a 19-year-old, then employed by his father’s building construction company. After completing work on a new winery here, Rene stayed on as a cellar hand under Pipers Brook Vineyard founder Dr Andrew Pirie. Rene was eventually appointed chief winemaker in 2002. His methodical approach to winemaking brought our company a great many accolades. Recent successes included two international trophies for sparkling wine in Hong Kong in 2014. It didn’t matter whether it was riesling or14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

briefsgewurztraminer, pinot noir or sparkling wine, Rene was a master tomatoes. Main choices may feature Cape Grim rump withcraftsman and his departure due to ill-health has left big shoes to bernaise sauce, or chicken roulade stuffed with leeks servedfill. We certainly wish him well for his recovery.” Bryan Widstrand with lentils. The restaurant will be serving lunch from 11:30am-has been appointed senior winemaker and two of Tasmania's most 3:00pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, and platters willexperienced winemakers employed as consultants for vintage - be available at the cellar door daily from 11am-5pm. “We’reNatalie Fryar and Peter Dredge. Widstrand has worked alongside proud to be able to offer a complete food and wine experienceBezemer since 2015, while Fryar and Dredge are consummate for our customers and we’re extremely excited for what is toprofessionals. “Natalie spent 14 years establishing Jansz Tasmania come,” says Lambert.as one of the country’s flagship sparkling wine brands and hasbeen making premium sparkling wine since 1996,” Hosken said. COMING OF AGE“Peter joined Bay of Fires winery in 2010 as winemaker/manager,and in 2013 was a worthy finalist in the Wine Society’s Young JAPAN may seem like an unlikely destination for a wine lover,Winemaker of the Year awards. Both Natalie and Peter were but Winestate contributor Winsor Dobbin recently spent twoso inspired by their experiences in Tasmania that they recently weeks exploring Japan with Tobu Top Tours, visiting remotedecided to leave their respective employers to strike out on their rural regions to the impressive city of Osaka. The ostensibleown with premium brands based around Tasmanian-sourced wine purpose of the trip was to demonstrate how much more ofgrapes. We’re grateful to have them on board for this vintage.” Japan has been opened up to tourism by the new Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train, which rockets between Tokyo andTHE COMPLETE EXPERIENCE Kanazawa through previously undiscovered regional Japan - primarily Fukui, Ishikawa and Toyama. The itinerary includedFAMILY-OWNED Lambert Wines in the Barossa Valley has several fascinating artisan sake distilleries as well as two wineopened a new restaurant at 55 Long Gully Rd, Angaston. “From producers. Yes, wine. Not only are Japanese supermarkets fullgrapes to glass, from farm to plate, we endeavour to bring of imported wines, but there is also a fast-growing domestic winecustomers a complete experience showcasing all Lambert industry. Chateau Mercian, outside Nagano, is probably theEstate has to offer, from our little slice of heaven,” says owner highest-profile producer, along with Grace Winery. While someJim Lambert. “Enjoy a glass of wine, a meal or a tasting of our winemakers use traditional wine grapes, including chardonnaywide range of estate grown wines, while taking in the amazing and cabernet sauvignon, others concentrate on the white wineviews from above our estate vineyard overlooking the Barossa grape koshu and the hybrid grape Muscat Bailey A. GrapesValley, or catch a glimpse of the winemaking process in action are cultivated and wines made in several regions, includingfrom the large viewing windows which look into the workings of the new Osagida winery at Chichibu in Saitama Prefecture, runthe Lambert Estate winery.” The restaurant has been launched by the Chichibu Farmers group, where there are 2ha of vinesin co-operation with local chef and caterer Stuart Oldfield, and other grapes are sourced from growers. This small butwhose menus change on a weekly basis - and there is a terrace impressive facility offers vineyard and winery tours and freefor dining outdoors when the weather is fine. Think entrees tastings, and visitors can enjoy a traditional lunch next door atlike half shell scallops with jamon, cauliflower and truffle salt, the Kamanoue Farm Village. I enjoyed the 2014 Muscat Baileyor maybe chorizo and cheddar croquettes with pickled green A Cuvee Kamanoue, which was reminiscent of Beaujolais in style. Less rustic is the Cave d’Occi winery and restaurant, a full-scale tourism operation that is part of the Niigata Wine Coast region, which includes five wine producers and is on the hillside overlooking the Japan Sea. Winery and vineyard tours are offered here, there are three restaurants and cafes, including an up-market French eatery, and there is even vineyard accommodation. There are 7ha of vines dating from 1992 and most are of French origin, ranging from chardonnay and riesling to cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. The other regional wineries - Fermier, Domaine Chaud, Cantinio Zia Setto and Le Cinq are all close by. Japanese wine drinkers are increasingly open to new styles as the country’s wine market “comes of age”, according to a recent report from Rabobank. That was certainly borne out by a visit to Boo Foo Woo, a very funky wine bar in ShinOsaka, where names on the list included the likes of Mount Mary, La Violetta, Ochota Barrels and other Australian boutique stars imported by Ned Goodwin and his team at Wine Diamonds in Tokyo. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 15

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nzbriefsWINE EXPORTS A RECORD manager, Peter Macdonald - Jane’s brother-in-law. A fourth- generation grapegrower/winemaker, Macdonald graduatedTHE value of New Zealand’s wine exports reached a record from Lincoln University in viticulture and oenology, and has$NZ1.54 billion in 2015 - up 14 per cent on 2014, according to worked vintages in Australia and Bordeaux.New Zealand Winegrowers. Sauvignon blanc accounted for awhopping 86 per cent of total export volumes, but pinot noir, Matua, owned by Treasury Wine Estates, has appointed Gregpinot gris and merlot also enjoyed fast growth. In the US - the Rowdon as chief winemaker, following the resignation afterworld’s largest market for wine - imports of NZ wine soared by seven years of Nikolai St George, now chief winemaker at26 per cent in 2015 to $NZ430 million. NZ wine is now exported Giesen, in Marlborough. Since joining Matua in 2002, Rowdonto over 90 countries. Lower exchange rates have boosted has climbed the ranks from cellarhand to assistant winemaker,returns - compared to the US dollar, the value of the NZ dollar Auckland winemaker, Marlborough senior winemaker - and nowdropped by over 12 per cent in 2015. But Philip Gregan, CEO chief winemaker.of NZ Winegrowers, argues that “at its very core, the growthreflects the reputation New Zealand wine has in global markets”. NEW LIFE IN OLD WINERY“That reputation for quality was built in markets such as the UKand Australia. It’s there now in markets such as the US and INVIVO, one of New Zealand’s fastest-growing producers, isCanada, and we’re seeing it emerge in markets like China and moving into one of the country’s oldest wineries at the historicthe rest of Asia, so we have really strong demand around the Viticultural Research Station at Te Kauwhata, in the Waikato,world…” NZ’s wine exports soared from $NZ500 million in 2005 south of Auckland. The rambling, white-walled winery, built into $NZ1 billion in 2010. Having reached $NZ1.5 billion in 2015, 1902, has ancient casks and a three-storey high copper pot-still.the industry is well on track to achieve its next target - $NZ2 Working on a three-level, gravity-feed system, with the crusherbillion of exports by 2020. at the top and the barrels at the bottom, it is protected by the Historic Places trust. Invivo, launched from the 2008 vintage,OVERCOMING THE CONFUSION is majority-owned by winemaker Rob Cameron and marketer Tim Lightbourne. The company has taken a 10-year lease onWINEGROWERS in the Wairarapa region, north-east of the the old winery, with a 10-year right of renewal. The installationcapital Wellington, have long been divided, with one organisation of new tanks will boost the winery’s annual production capacityrepresenting the best-known sub-region, Martinborough, and from 20,000 cases to over 100,000 cases.another promoting Gladstone and Masterton. To add to theconfusion, overseas wine lovers often struggle to understand CULLY STEPS UPthe difference between Martinborough and Marlborough, orthe Wairarapa and Waipara (in North Canterbury). Now the NEILL Culley, who co-founded the Cable Bay winery on Waihekeexisting bodies have agreed to work together under the banner Island, has been appointed Wine Sciences director at theof Wellington Wine Country. A new company, Wellington Wine University of Auckland. The postgraduate program is basedCountry Ltd, was incorporated in January and is expected to at the former Goldwater vineyard and winery, also on Waihekebe up and running, with a general manager soon. Island. Culley, who lives on the island and spent 12 years at the Babich winery in West Auckland as marketing manager By adopting the name Wellington Wine Countr y, the and chief winemaker, succeeds Randy Weaver, a co-founderwinegrowers are hoping to enhance the reputation of their of Coopers Creek, who has retired.region and sub-regions. The name parallel with Wellington, award in Paarl, which is part of the Wine of Origin system in SouthAfrica, has no doubt been considered carefully. Paul Mason,winemaker at Martinborough Vineyard and chair of WairarapaWinegrowers, says the new name also gives the region “theopportunity to create a closer connection with the capital’srestaurants and wine lists, and to gain a stronger presence onthem with our region’s wines.”NEW CHIEF WINEMAKERS AT MATUA ANDHUNTER’SJAMES Macdonald, a nephew of co-founder Jane Hunter, is thenew chief winemaker at one of Marlborough’s oldest wineries.Macdonald’s appointment follows the retirement of Gary Duke,after 21 years at the production helm. Macdonald, who at avery young age began working at Hunter’s, is a son of general May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 17

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPER GOING THE DISTANCEHOW long will New Zealand reds mature Cabernet Sauvignon 1969 was a step up and sports administrator, in 2007 bought afor, especially those from that famously - fragrant, with generous plum, spice and bottle of Lansdowne Claret 1903 at the Teage-worthy variety, cabernet sauvignon? herb flavours. Nobilo Cabernet Sauvignon Omanga Hospice Charity Wine Auction for 1974 was yet another step up - mature, $NZ14,000. His intention was to display it in This question arose after two recent concentrated, savoury and complex. his cellar: “I would have thought its qualityand unforgettable tastings. One focused would be very questionable, so I don’t intendon Hawke’s Bay and Auckland reds from The oldest New Zealand wine ever tasted, to find out (whether it’s OK to drink).”the 1960s, the other on a “claret” from a Lansdowne Claret 1903, was poured andvineyard in the Wairarapa planted in pinot savoured on February 10 this year in the Last November I had the truly memorablenoir, pinot meunier and syrah. The reds dining room at Brancepath, one of the experience of tasting (and drinking afrom half a century ago were still highly Wairarapa’s grand old homesteads. glass or two) of the wine with Ed Beetham,enjoyable; the “claret”, although faded, was the current custodian of the Brancepethstill drinkable at 113 years old. The other was alive and homestead. The bottle was unlabelled, like all other samples over the decades, So should we be buying NZ reds from well... with amazing fruit, but a loose label on the shelf in the cellarclassic varieties and outstanding vintages, indicated 1903.with a view to long-term cellaring? The body and freshness forunusually warm 2014 season in Hawke’s Amber-hued, with lots of sediment, itBay yielded many dark, powerful reds, now the age. reminded me of a dry sherry, althoughflowing on to the shelves and seemingly full lighter in body. The flavours were of tea,of potential. When you taste such sturdy, This rarest of reds was crafted by William dried fruits, spices and nuts. Faded andripe, densely packed reds as Church Road Beetham, heir to 56,000 Wairarapa acres mellow, but alive, it still gives pleasure.McDonald Series Cabernet Sauvignon (22,662 ha), who had earlier spent several2014, or Te Mata Coleraine 2014, the years in France, where he married Marie So should we be laying down the latestobvious question is: will they, too, flourish Zelie Hermance Frere. In 1883, Beetham reds to be enjoyed over the rest of the 21stfor several decades? planted a tiny vineyard at his Masterton century? I asked Chris Scott, winemaker at townhouse. Nine years later, he planted 1.2 Church Road, if his outstanding, great value Geoff Kelly, who has written about NZ wines hectares at Lansdowne vineyard, principally McDonald Series Hawke’s Bay Cabernetin a notably scholarly, reflective manner in three classic French varieties - pinot noir, Sauvignon 2014 will be a 50-year wine.since the 1980s, recently stepped down pinot meunier and syrah.after more than 30 years judging at the Royal “There’s always an element of crystalEaster Show Wine Awards. At a “farewell During his national vineyard tour in 1895, ball gazing with such questions,” he said,NZ cabernet tasting” for his fellow judges, viticulturist Romeo Bragato visited Beetham “but the short answer is, yes. It has a veryKelly included a “benchmark” bordeaux red and reported tasting a six-year-old syrah reasonable chance. The way we make the(Chateau Talbot 1966), the 1967 and 1969 of “prime quality”. Lansdowne’s output wine encourages very good colour andvintages of McWilliam’s Cabernet Sauvignon reached 1850 gallons (8410 litres) of wine tannin stability. We now have wines underfrom Hawke’s Bay, the ultra-rare Western in 1897, but following the prohibitionists’ screw cap... that are 10 years old and stillVineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1967 (from victory in Masterton in 1908, the vineyard deeply coloured, healthy hued and fruit-Henderson, in west Auckland) and Nobilo was uprooted. forward. In the past (under cork) we wouldCabernet Sauvignon 1974, grown at Huapai, have expected many wines to be showingalso in west Auckland. In 1985, Beetham’s descendants developed notes and browning at that age.” broached two bottles of Lansdowne Claret The Chateau Talbot 1966, a fourth-growth 1903. Kelly reported in National Business Nicholas Buck, of Te Mata Estate, saysSt-Julien, was the finest wine - fragrant, Review that one was “oxidised with varnish Coleraine is “the best shot for a NZ wine tocedary, leathery, savoury and mellow. It was overtones, but still drinkable”, while the lay down for a half century. Compared to 50followed by the McWilliam’s 1967 - less ripe- other was “alive and well... with amazing years ago, today’s wines are more uniformlytasting and higher in acidity, but still alive. fruit, body and freshness for the age.” ripe, with finer tannins.”The Western Vineyards 1967 was brown andgreen-edged, but still showed some riper Paul Collins, the prominent businessman But will Coleraine 2014 still be drinkingberry notes and complexity. McWilliams well in 2064? “I’d bet the business on it,” he chuckles. 18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

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europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW THE EVOLUTION CONTINUESIT SEEMS a little strange to suggest that appellations to commune (or village) St. Emilion is different again, in that it isclassic French regions are undergoing appellations, to premier cru appellations more similar to the Burgundy model (witha quiet evolution of “terroir” wines. After and finally to grand cru appellations. This different names for the levels). Within theall, isn’t “appellation” already all about means the quality hierarchy is embedded St. Emilion Grand Cru appellation there isterroir? Well, yes and no. The thing about in the appellation system. They are, a classification (quality hierarchy) from St.appellation, is, firstly, they are less than essentially, one and the same thing. Emilion Grand Cru Classe, to St. Emilion100 years old. It’s easy to imagine them Burgundy, notably the Cote d’Or, is held Premier Grand Cru Classe (and the latteras a fixed state of old world viticulture, but up as the model here. has categories A and B). The evolutionarythey do evolve. This is the second thing: thing here is that the classification is revisedappellation is not static. Maybe a little One might even hope roughly every 10 years. The process ofglacial, but that speed allows for quality change and investment by a producer canimprovements in production to bed in and that a glass of wine be acknowledged in the classification (asprove over time. can lack of nurture result in demotion). from a commune/ The appellation system throughout Elsewhere, new appellations comeEurope arose in the aftermath of late village would have some into being. For example, communal19th century plague and pestilence of (village) appellations are on the increase.phylloxera and mildew which resulted in location-recognisable A “commune” is an administrative unitmassively decreased production. Wine vaguely similar to a parish or communityadulteration and fraud followed. The features and flavours. area. This level of appellation is oftencreation of appellations countered this called “communal crus”; they rankby requiring (among other things) wine On the other hand Bordeaux is an exception below “premier crus” and “grand crus”.must come from within the appellation to this rule. The land, as elsewhere in France, It would equate to a small region/area.boundaries. Appellations were created. has the appellation - Pauillac, St. Estephe, One might even hope that a glass of St. Emilion, Pomerol, Graves. But the wine from a commune/village would have In an increasingly competitive and putative quality hierarchy is embedded in some location-recognisable features andglobal wine world, it makes perfect sense the classification systems - for example the flavours. Such a “village” moniker has evenfor producers to differentiate their product 1855 classification of Medoc and Sauternes been adopted in Australasia: De Bortoli,as much as possible. Terroir, or site cuts across all the left bank appellations. for example, has a “Yarra Valley Villages”specificity, is the only thing that cannot be And this classification is as rigid as they range – a “blend … from sites within areplicated or reproduced in any other part come, remaining almost entirely unchanged region”. Similarly New Zealand’s Kumeuof the world. It’s a particular patch of dirt since the list was originally drawn up. River has a Kumeu Village range.in a particular climatic and mesoclimaticmilieu. Site specificity is all about origin, However other classifications (quality Communal crus of Muscadet Sevre etuniqueness, localness. It applies equally hierarchies) in Bordeaux are more Maine (Loire valley) were created in 2011.to old and new world. One might argue, evolutionary. Crus Bourgeois cuts across After a long gestation process three werepossibly quite strongly, there’s always the left bank appellations north of Bordeaux awarded - for the crus (sites) of Clisson,been a slow progression of appellation and is awarded annually based on a blind Gorges and Le Pallet. The wines arerefinement, that there’s nothing new in tasting. One might argue it’s not therefore a very different style and flavour fromthis phenomenon. a classification, but it used to be (before muscadet, and comprise just 1 to 2 per the 2008 vintage), and the group has cent of total Muscadet production. Which, That’s origin. In terms of quality recently voted to reintroduce a classification, incidentally, is about the same proportionindication, appellations don’t always possibly from 2020. More evolution. as Burgundy’s Grand Crus.provide an easy to follow quality hierarchy,but where they do, there is typically a The Rhone valley is where appellationpyramid structure going from “regional” all started, in the 1920s, in the early 20th20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

THE WOLF BLASS FOUNDATION Established 1994century aftermath of phylloxera. The Bergheim, Zotzenberg and Kaefferkopf) Rear L to R: Brian Walsh, Paul Clancy OAM,production rules agreed by producers to its collection. In all Alsace grand David Robinson, Peter Perrin, Paul Evansin Chateauneuf-du-Pape became the crus make about 4 per cent of Alsaceblueprint for the whole appellation total wine. Front L to R: Wolf Blass AM, BVK, Stephen Millar AMsystem. And it is in the Rhone valleythat the latest new appellation has Because such changes to appellation An impressive recordbeen announced - that of Cairanne law take a long time, “works in progress” of achievement- starting from the 2015 vintage. The are sometimes reported. Alsace is oneappellation hierarchy in the Rhone goes region undergoing a lot of change. On his 60th birthday, in Septemberfrom “regional” Cotes du Rhone, to Cotes Taking the Burgundian model, Alsace 1994, Wolf Blass decided todu Rhone Villages, to “crus” including is currently rather unusual in having establish a foundation to benefit thefamous names of Cote Rotie, Hermitage, a “regional” appellation (Alsace) and Australian wine industry – to rewardChateauneuf-du-Pape, etc. “grand cru” appellations (51 of them achievement and facilitate study in all now), before it introduced “commune” fields, viticulture, winemaking, wine The length of Cairanne’s progress appellations, which it did in 2011. marketing, wine business, promotioncan be charted by its progress up the Commune/village names such as Cote and wine education.appellation hierarchy. It has been a de Rouffach, Saint-Hippolyte and ValCotes du Rhone Villages appellation Saint-Gregoire are now being seen on The Wolf Blass Foundation is asince 1967, and was straight Cotes du labels. The region continues to fill in its unique and autonomous initiative whichRhone before that since 1953. Now, it hierarchy - a tranche of “premier cru” provides a range of tangible benefitshas been upgraded again to its own, cru applications are waiting to be processed to industry. It is quite distinct from allappellation, in recognition of work done by the national appellation committee. other industry bodies because it isby producers to improve quality. This private, politically and commerciallylast step has taken nearly 10 years - the Even in Burgundy, appellation evolves. independent, and takes a ‘whole ofapplication was filed in 2008 to France’s The Cote d’Or may epitomise the industry’ approach. The Foundationnational appellation committee. It still Burgundian model of appellation, but will, however, complement andneeds to be approved by the French southern Burgundy - the Maconnais - has may affiliate with existing bodies forauthorities and the EU. This upgrade for nothing above a commune appellation, maximum effectiveness.Cairanne is the latest in what is a slow despite the reputation of, for example,stream of elevation of some Cotes du Pouilly-Fuisse and St. Veran to produce Over the past 20 years The Wolf BlassRhone Villages that have proved their fine quality wines. Several premier crus Foundation has provided well in excessworth over the years. Gigondas started applications were applied for in 2010. of $A1 million in funds to numerousthis evolution, being awarded its own The latest reports suggest news may wine industry projects including a“cru” appellation in 1971. Other upgrades be forthcoming in around 2018. Both unique oral and written history of thefrom “Villages” were Vacqueyras in 1990 Pouilly-Fuisse and St. Veran have applied Australian wine industry, a 10 yearand Rasteau in 2010. for upgrading to premier cru status, as scholarship in Wine Innovation and have Pouilly-Loche and Pouilly-Vinzelles. Marketing at the University of SA and It’s also possible to evolve premier was a key contributor to the funding ofcrus and grand crus. The Loire valley This evolution of appellation leads to the Winemakers’ Federation of Australiawas quite busy in 2011. As well as greater differentiation of terroir units, and Expert Review on profitability in theMuscadet communal crus, a Coteaux differentiation separates you from your Australian wine industry Actions Fordu Layon Premier Cru Chaume and a competitors. In the wine world one hopes Industry Profitability 2014 - 2016.Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru were this is accompanied by recognisablecreated. Between 2005 and 2007 Alsace differentiation of flavour profile. phone +61 8 8232 5322added three grand crus (Altenberg de [email protected] May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY EARTHLY MATTERSTERROIR and its impact on the final Climate is divided into three types. Macro- loess, and debris deposited by retreatingquality of a wine is always a controversial climate or regional climate, influenced by glaciers known as moraines.but interesting topic. How much is wines its general latitude, and is what we look touniqueness down to the environment first in generally describing a region. Meso- For vines to grow the soil must have somethe grapes are grown in, or is it all in climate is the site climate which takes into degree of fertility, but not too much. Soilthe hands of its creator? The old world consideration the topographical features is generally made up of clay, silt, sand,swears by it; the new world analyses it to discussed in the last paragraph. Finally, stones, rock and organic material. Silt,the nth degree and sits divided. Terroir micro-climate considers the canopy area simply put, sits between the small clayhas many interpretations but could be influenced by the row spacing, trellising particles and the larger sand particles.said to include all aspect of the vineyard and direction of the vines. You could sayenvironment. Simplified it can be boiled that climate is king, but soils are an equally In general soils need to be well drained,down to topography, climate and soil. but also friable to allow a moderate supply Vineyards that contain of water to be kept for vine use. However, Topography describes the surface of we don’t want the vine to be water-logged,the land, its altitude and distance from a majority of stones, a certain level of water stress produces thebodies of water or cities that all have right amount of grapes if we are balancingan impact on the climate. Hills give us gravel or rocks have the quantity and quality. Where rainfall isslopes and slopes give us aspect. In plentiful then the soils need better drainageother words what direction a vineyard is potential to make some and soils with plenty of stones are ideal.facing, and the steepness of the slope. Vineyards that contain a majority of stones,An easterly aspect facing the rising sun the world’s best wines. gravel or rocks have the potential to makeis considered the most desirable. “If you some the world’s best wines, the Bordeauxare in the southern hemisphere you need important determining factor on whether a Medoc region is a case in point. Stony soilsa north facing tilt, while in the southern vineyard is firstly planted. limit surface evaporation as well as conducthemisphere a southerly one is considered heat and are usually only moderately fertile.ideal topography. These aspects get the In explaining the composition of vineyard Retaining heat in the soil can keep the vinemorning sun and warm up the soil quickly. soil we talk about bed rock, which may or warm in the evening or on cloudy days.An easterly aspect shelters the vine from may not protrude from the earth. On top ofbad weather which often comes from the this we have various levels of debris and Texture is also important in determiningwest. Hills are the preferred topography for humus called sediment which makes up the water holding capacity, as well as thevineyards as the slopes provide important the subsoil or topsoil. degree of aeration. Although they are theair flow which is important in marginal, cool finest particles, clay is regarded as a heavyclimate regions. At night dangerous cold The topsoil, where the roots are most textured soil which retains more water thanair flows down hillsides into the valley and active, could consist of weathered away others. Clay takes longer to warm up ingets trapped by a band of warmer air on fragments of the bed rock or they may spring and tends to be generally coolertop causing frost. The slope often escapes have fallen from higher up a slope via than sandy soils. Sandy soils have thedamage from frost. The topography of gravity (called colluvial) or been washed opposite attributes to clay, being loose anda region may be also dominated by the into its current location by a stream or river free draining; too free draining in-fact, andproximity to rivers, lakes and oceans. These (alluvial). As well as these two sources of are regarded as poor soils due to their lackhave a moderating effect on the climate and sediment vineyards can also be covered of water retention and low nutrients.reduce the likelihood of frost. with wind-blown material, described as The soil must also have a small proportion of organic material, normally around 2 to 5 per cent. This is the remains of plants22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

and animals, and animal excreta broken Yorke Peninsula’sdown in the soil by organisms such as award winningworms, beetles, mites and bacteria. When vineyardthese break down they enrich the soil withnitrogen, sugars and starch. Soils do notneed to be too high in organic materialbut have enough to support a good wormpopulation which assists in making the soilfriable. This is a key role for organic materialas it is a way of avoiding waterloggedsoils and hard compacted soils when it isdry. Very sandy soils need more organicmaterial as it decomposes quicker than inclay-rich soils. The way to maintain healthylevel of organic material is to grown covercrops in winter and slash them during thegrowing season. Soils contain valuable life-giving elements.These are divided up between major andminor, according to what is important to thevine. The major elements in soil for vinesinclude nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,calcium, sulphur and magnesium. Minorelements include boron, copper, iron anda plethora of others. You cannot win with nitrogen. An excessivepick-up of nitrogen by the vine will result ina green leafy canopy and unripe fruit,whereas low levels can cause problemsat fermentation time, leading to stuckfermentations. Potassium deficiencies arecommon in cool, humid climates and thiscan lead to fruit with less flavour and thevines are more prone to feeling the effectsof droughts. Generally a deficiency in anyof the soil nutrients will result in fewer crops,so a vineyard will need to balance its soilby enriching with fertilisers and that is fromthe hand of the creator. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING STAR TREKSIF YOU’VE already “done” the major pilgrimage route. The not-too-rugged Australian walking trails. But the JatbulaEuropean capitals and fulfilled your quota journey has enjoyed a huge revival over Trail in the Northern Territory is the tropicalof can't miss landmarks. Perhaps it’s time the past decade and offers an unbeatable counterpart to Tassie’s Overland Track.to head for a spot that gets a - You're going way to meet people of all ages from all over Inaugurated seven years ago, the scenicwhere? - query from friends and strangers. Europe. There are long and short routes panoramas embody the raw spectacle of aTreks that are as much an inward as an to the final destination - the cathedral of big country. Centred on Nitmiluk (Katherine)outward journey. With some indulgent Santiago de Compostela - but the most Gorge, the trail follows the Songline of thepleasures along the way, of course. popular choice is the World Heritage-listed Jawoyn people and is no groomed path. French Way. A medium to hard walk, trekkers cover 10 GR stands for Grande Randonnees (Great to 17km a day through creeks, monsoonTrails) and one of the best ways to enjoy a Beginning in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in forests and open country, and ending eachtrip through France is to map out one of France, one of the best walking routes in day with a swim in an Outback freshwaterthese DIY treks. GR2013 is the most recent Europe takes you over the Pyrenees and pool. Pine Creek, 17 Mile Falls and theaddition to the national network and opened through the wine-growing region of Rioja, legendary Edith River Soak - its all aboutthree years ago to celebrate Marseilles’ Leon and Pamplona of bull-running fame. the waterholes.turn as the European Capital of Culture. Confessing or praying in the cathedral isBilled as “the first metropolitan and artistic said to wash away all the sins you may have The best time to plan a trip - independenthiking trail”. It runs for 365km in a figure of committed on the 760km journey. or guided - is from June to early September.eight circuit, zig-zagging through the real The most luxurious accommodation nearProvence - not a Peter Mayle fantasy. Confessing or praying in Katherine is the award-winning Cicada Lodge on the lip of the gorge. A welcome Created by three artists who are also keen the cathedral is said to spot of sophistication before the next fewhikers, the 15-day ramble dips in and out of days of camping, the individual rooms arethe suburbs of Marseilles, past oil refineries wash away all the sins huge and gourmet dining and a seriouslyand an abandoned train station to open good wine list seal the deal.your eyes to the reality of Joni Mitchell’s you may have committedanthem - Big Yellow Taxi. There’s plenty of Forget photo-ops of tourist crowds atparadise between the parking lots though, on the 760km journey. Badaling, the Great Wall of China isn’tincluding Cezanne’s most painted peak known as Heaven’s Ladder for nothing.Mont Sainte-Victoire, the historic town of Aix- There’s no need to be too much of a It can take a week to trek across even aen-Provence and rugged limestone crags penitent on the journey, though. Walking small segment of its 2414km length. It’soverlooking the Mediterranean. the Camino can also be turned into a not flat either and steep steps lead to foodies pilgrimage. Names to note are huge crags in some parts to remind you Several wine trails fan out from Aix-en- the Hotel Echaurren in Ezcaray with of Sun Tzu’s Art of War observation - allProvence when you’ve finished using its Michelin 2 star restaurant El Portal armies prefer high ground to low. DIYshanks’ pony as your mode of transport, (olives and nuts and a bottle of Rioja are trekking is frowned upon because theincluding the Bandol, Les Baux and the complimentary in every room) and Casa Great Wall can be dangerous under foot42km stretch from the old town that takes in Marcelo and A Tafona at journey’s end in in parts and only 4m wide in others. Manythe standout Chateau La Coste Winery and Santiago de Compostela – both dishing up companies, including World Expeditionsart trail. The Villa Gallici Hotel and Spa is the some of the best food in Spain. offer treks staying in the villages alongsideperfect place to refresh a weary body, from the greatest building project in the historythe opulent bedrooms through the gardens, The Bibbulmun Track and Larapinta and of the world.gourmet restaurants and huge wine cellar. Heysen Trails form the core of bucket list But to see how far China has come The Camino de Santiago, a.k.a The Way since the greatest man-made structureof St James, is the definitive medieval24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

DWPAR155212(2)on earth was built, a stay at the five-star www.parous.com.auCommune by The Great Wall is an eye-opener. A collection of boutique hotelseach designed by a different Chinese stararchitect, you can enjoy Chinese-madewines in the Pink Bar and a selection ofregional cuisines in the austerely modernCourtyard Restaurant. The best spot for asundowner is the Terrace Lounge with itsview of the Shuigan Mountains. Known as a brown pants job, AonachEagach is the most thrilling and scaryridge walk in Scotland. Located nearGlencoe of Highland massacre infamy,the descent is the tricky part of “notchedridge” to translate from the Gaelic. Youneed to be reasonably fit and have a headfor heights says Stephen Fallon, one ofthe best guides in the area who offersa 1:3 guide to client ratio for the climb. Nearby Glencoe House is the defaultchoice for a playing the laird fantasy. Builtin 1896 by Lord Strathcona, an ambitiousScotsman who made his money as arailroad magnate in Canada, its grandeurcomes courtesy of the same architectwho refurbished Balmoral Castle for KingEdward VII. Every room has its own private sittingroom where dinner is served to reinforce the“homely” touch amid baronial splendour.Lunch boxes are made up for guestswho want to see more of the surroundinglandscape dubbed the Outdoors Centreof the UK - hiking, fishing, climbing orsailing on Loch Leven. Exhausted aftera day on Aonach Eagach? If a stiff maltwhisky isn’t enough, Glencoe House alsohas a massage therapy centre and spa toease any aches and pains. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 25

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON IN NEW ZEALAND (PART 5)JUST as in Australia, visiting French weeks, and tea being his only tipple. A The two men left “this most hospitableoctogenarian food and wine writer Andre greater contrast with Simon’s and Thorpy’s mission” and arrived at the Masonic HotelSimon had a hectic time in his two weeks in life styles would be difficult to imagine. in Napier at a late hour. Simon doesn’t sayNew Zealand, so he would have been glad Jamieson must have welcomed the whether or not he topped off the long dayof the opportunity to enjoy a day without chicken, ham, cheese and other goodies with his customary glass of champagne.commitments. He and his guide, Frank from the Wairakei Hotel and cold beerThorpy, spent three nights at the classy from the Taupo pub which the two visitors On the morning of February 14, 1964,Hotel, in thermal hot springs country. delivered. Simon went on a tour of the Hawke’s BaySimon commented enthusiastically on the vineyards around Napier with a party“two excellent meals” they enjoyed there Sherry was a sort of of some 18 winegrowers, vintners, andon February 11, 1964, on a rare restful journalists. They all met at the Masonicday. The highlights were “lamb cutlets universal drink. Andre Hotel at 9am, but Simon says little aboutreform” (breaded lamb chops crumbed this meeting. Fortunately a journalist, Ericand seasoned with a piquant sauce, looked aghast at the Bradwell, reported on it. The weatherinvented in a culinary emergency in the was hot for New Zealand (around1830s by London’s Reform Club chef suggestion. ‘At nine 85F or 30C at noon). A photographerAlexis Soyer). This was washed down from a local paper asked Simon if hewith a bottle of Chateau Gruaud-Larose o’clock in the morning?’ would allow himself to be photographed1955 for lunch. “Trout straight from Lake drinking a glass of sherry. BradwellTaupo” accompanied a bottle of Batard- They then drove through Napier to noted, “it was probably the first time theMontrachet for dinner. Probably Simon Greenmeadows to visit the vineyard young photographer had ever heard ofspent much of the day catching up with and winery of the Mission Fathers. The Andre Simon, and sherry was a sort ofhis writing. Mission Vineyards were established in universal drink. Andre looked aghast at 1851 by French Marist missionaries. The the suggestion. ‘At nine o’clock in the The following day they drove to Rotorua winery, now known as Mission Estate, morning?’ he said in a strangled sortfor lunch at the Geyser Hotel which had is Hawke’s Bay’s oldest, and has been of voice. Eventually a compromise wasa “first-class cold table and a very good described as the country’s oldest still reached, and with his usual good gracechef”. They then went on to a private in existence. Simon marvelled that “the he consented to be photographed whilehome for the inaugural meeting of the Brothers make wine for the Fathers, first holding a glass of nondescript liquidRotorua Branch of the Wine and Food and foremost, but they also make any hurriedly produced by a waiter”.Society, where the “popping of Lanson and every kind of wine, red or white, stillCarte Noire corks and a very fine display or sparkling, dry or sweet, as well as The vineyards tour impressed Bradwell.of excellent homemade canapes” ensured liqueur, in small quantities but profitably”. He was even more impressed with thean enjoyable afternoon. Back at the The Fathers entertained their two guests indefatigable Simon, who was apparentlyWairakei Hotel they sat down to a fine for dinner at the top table in the refectory, unaffected by the heat. “This agiledinner of “consomme, cold trout, fillet of in the company of some 70 “student octogenarian outpaced most of thebeef bouquetiere, cheese,” and to drink seminarists”. Yet again, Simon neglects to others. He was always first at the vines,“Deinhard’s Green Cap Berncasteler (sic) tell us about the meal, but he does say that commenting knowledgeably, and withand Drapier’s Volnay”. Next morning they after dinner the men retired to the parlour, a friendly word to those in charge. Hisheaded for Napier, but first went 25 miles where the Brothers insisted on serving interest was so obviously genuine.” He(40km) out of their way to visit Jimmy some of their liqueurs, “of which they are was so effective at managing to uniteJamieson, a friend of Thorpy’s who was a surprisingly proud” - which sounds as the disparate group that by the time theyforest fire watcher - he spent most of his though Simon did not like them. reached the Mayfair Hotel in Hastingstime living in a tiny room, with supplies, for lunch they were “all bosom friends”.mainly tins, being delivered every two They were also very thirsty and dying for a long, cold beer. 26 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

WINESTATE MAGAZINEMEMBER EVENTS 2016JOIN US TODAY!By becoming a Winestate Member you will receive one complimentaryticket to all of our events listed below upon request!*MAY 2016 JULY 2016VICTORIA - Winestate Wine of the Year & Wines of the SYDNEY - Luigi Bormioli ‘Winestate Wine of the Year 2015’ TastingYarra Valley 7 July 2016 - Trenton International, St Peters - 6pm - 8.30pmSaturday 7 May 2016, 1.00pm – 5.00pm (Tickets available now)The Long Gallery at Montsalvat, 7 Hillcrest Ave., Eltham VICSubscribers can request 2 free tickets (if available) from SEPTEMBER [email protected] ADELAIDE - Winestate ‘Wine of the Year 2016’ Subscribers TastingMAY 2016 2 September 2016 - National Wine Centre Adelaide 6pm – 8.30pm (Tickets available June 2016)ADELAIDE - Mainfreight International World’s GreatestShiraz Challenge XI NOVEMBER 201627 May 2016 - National Wine Centre, Adelaide 6pm - 8.30pm(Tickets available now) QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards Lunch 18 November 2016 - Gantleys of Queenstown (NZ)JUNE 2016 Winestate Subscribers - NZD$95 p/p Non-Subscribers - NZD$180 p/pADELAIDE - Australian Organic Wine of the YearThursday 30 June 2016, ADELAIDE - Wine of the Year AwardsNational Wine Centre, 6.00pm – 8.00pm 24 November 2016 - Adelaide Convention Centre (Trade only)Winestate subscribers can claim one free ticket.Subscribers contact Peter Jackson (08) 8357 9277 * This applies to paid members only, on a first in/first served basis. Numbers strictly limited.

A new in theJewel WINE CROWN

Winemaker Robert Olde believesWestern Australia’s Blackwood River wine region is on the brink of greatness.MIKE ZEKULICH“WE have in this wine producing area a occasional white ant attacks. There aresleeping giant, a hidden jewel - to most now some 50 wine grape growers in theAustralian consumers.” That’s the view district, including the biggest, Latitudeof Robert Olde who is backing Western 34, which has 85ha and a further 37haAustralia’s Blackwood Valley to become at Margaret River. In a normal year itone of the nation’s leading premium produces about 850 tonnes, providingwine areas. That’s a great challenge and for a range of 30 wines under five labelsthere will be sceptics, as he knows. But selling from $12 to $75 a bottle. Olde 44,confidence steeped in family agriculture whose early family farming operationsand enormous faith in the wines already were based on Albany and Mt Barkerbeing made in his Latitude 34 umbrella wheat, sheep and dairying, studiedgroup and elsewhere in the district sees commerce at Perth’s Murdoch University.him ready to show national consumers But he quickly decided after a holiday joband those overseas that they have that following his father Bill into charteredsomething special to look forward to. The accountancy was not for him. Instead, heBlackwood Valley, centred on towns like became strongly involved with propertyBoyup Brook and Bridgetown, is 260km development and has become one ofsouth east of Perth. It takes its name the family shareholders and investors infrom the Blackwood River - the longest the Latitude 34 Wine Company businesscontinually flowing river in WA. Modern which began grape production in 1997.day pioneer Max Fairbrass began his “Our family has been involved sinceindustry challenge under the Blackwood day one,” Olde said. “With the vineyardCrest label in 1978 with his first vintage improvements we have made, especiallyfour years later - on land taken up by his in the last three years, we are excitedgrandfather William in 1906. He and other about the fruit quality the Blackwoodearly settlers planted grapevine cuttings can produce. I believe it is the nextwhich survived for many years despite the emerging region out of WA for quality May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 29



reds like shiraz and cabernet. As well, supplied to the high end bulk market. I believe it isin the last three years we have grafted “The exciting part of our business is the the next emergingover some of the more exciting and depth of styles and brands we can now region out of WA forinteresting Spanish and Italian varieties offer,” Olde said. The leading wines in quality reds like shirazto provide blending options and add a the portfolio are the Optimus Block twodifference to the portfolio.” Today the shiraz and Block three cabernet from the and cabernet.business is a fully integrated operation Blackwood Valley, with St Johns Brookfrom vine to marketing and is one of the (Margaret River) reserve chardonnaytop 12 producers by volume in WA. Gold and reserve cabernet next. “Everythingmedals support the Blackwood wine we do is based totally on fruit from ourquality case along with other accolades. own vines,” Olde said. “We are reallyAfter his father asked him to join the proud of that and our progress. We nowcompany in 2013 and take it to the next have an office in China. I believe exportslevel, Olde was made CEO. He is also a have to be a stable part of any agriculturedirector. But the passionate wine man, business. You have to look overseas ifthough convinced his father was right you are making more than your domesticthat they had the backbone to a “great market needs. “If other little-knownbusiness” was cautious. “I said I would Australian winemaking regions can showonly take it on if the grape quality I knew the world they can produce wines equalwe could get could be translated into to the best internationally, so can thethe bottle,” he said. “We have made Blackwood. With our production of morea lot of changes from the bottom up than half that of the valley, it is up to ussince 2013, including no herbicide use to lead the charge. So far wines we havein the vineyard, developing our own shown overseas have enjoyed positivecomposting program and using seaweed responses. We know the fruit quality andin a compost-based fertiliser mix. We can consistency is there, but the market is yetsee the lift in grape quality with what we to perceive that. So we are yet to get thehave done and are doing. It has made dollars and that reflects the challenge weour vines thrive in the elevated warm have with consumers. “We will be takingdry conditions of the Blackwood while our wines nationally this year so that winebecoming disease hardy.” In its history, lovers can judge for themselves. We wantLatitude 34 has moved from being a to wake consumers up to the Blackwood.contract fruit grower to establishing a It should be considered equal to Margaretmodern winery in 2004 to help it take River.\" And the name? Said Olde: “This iscontrol of its own fruit. It now sells off because all our vineyards are located onabout a third of its wine production Latitude 34.” And the money invested?under its own labels with the balance “Too much,” he said with a shy grin. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 31

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MAKING THE MOSTOF A CHINACONNECTIONTomich Wines might be a family affair,but its links to China are driving theAdelaide-based organisation in aninternational direction.NIGEL HOPKINS 47, went straight from riding bicycles to Randal’s company, Soilworks, which he driving bulldozers, and eventually to buying established in 2001, is now regarded as aFOR many wine consumers, Tomich Wines his own vineyard in Clare. world leader in vineyard soil ameliorationis a new kid on the block who only became and development. As well as thean obvious player in the highly competitive Concerns about climate change induced Vibersoiler being used in the developmentwine market in 2010 when, in a typically John to look for cooler climate land, which of many Australian vineyards, since 2007innovative move, it opened a cellar door he found in the Adelaide Hills where in the it’s been a big success in California foron Adelaide’s King William Rd. late 1990s he established a 87ha vineyard Randal and his US partner, prominent at Woodside, flanked on either side by Shaw Napa grapegrower John Crossland. “That was a game changer in terms & Smith and Nepenthe. Initially nearly all theof brand recognition,” says managing grapes were sold to Penfolds, with enough The cessation of the Penfolds contractdirector Randal Tomich. But in fact the held back for around 1000 cases. in 2009, along with a failed investment inTomich family’s involvement in the wine Timbercorp, brought the Tomich family backindustry goes back much further than that, Meanwhile Randal had been working to earth with a thud. Now all the grapes hadthree generations in fact. with his brother, Damien, working and to be made into wine, overseen by John managing broad-acre farming properties who’d by now achieved a postgraduate Randal’s father, John, a well-known while also developing revolutionary new Diploma in Oenology and embarked on theAdelaide ear, nose and throat specialist, technologies for vineyard establishment. Master of Wine course.grew up on his parents’ vineyard at He’d decided that traditional developmentCoomealla near Mildura. While John’s methods used when establishing Initial wines included chardonnay, pinotfather, Ivan, was a grapegrower, his vineyards were inadequate, especially noir, sauvignon blanc and small quantitiesmother’s family had market gardens in high rainfall zones with the potential of gewurztraminer and riesling, all madeand raised cattle, providing him with an for soil erosion, soil subsiding and with estate-grown fruit on 27 individualagricultural background that underpinned poor development, resulting in vine vineyard blocks. The Tomich line-up hashis later career as farmer and winemaker establishment taking up to five years modified over the years, with estate winesthat somehow he managed to fit in with a before the first commercial crop. now including pinot grigio, gruner veltlinersuccessful medical career. and shiraz, plus shiraz and cabernet His research into ripping technology, sauvignon from McLaren Vale. But it was only when John bought a “little assisted by soil scientist John Rasic,hobby farm” of some 2500ha near Penola in enabled him to design a new ripper called If the city cellar door was a gamethe early 1980s, basically for raising cattle but the Vibersoiler - a vibrating winged ripper, changer in brand recognition, so haswith an existing vineyard, that, he says, “the which has the ability to mix topsoil with been the relationship Tomich Winesjuices started flowing again”. It also provided the underlying subsoil to improve water has built with China, where it has alsoan environment in which Randal, now aged penetration and root growth, and reduce employed a city cellar door approach in irrigation demands by up to 40 per cent. Shanghai and Chengdu.34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016



China exportshave gone fromtwo containersa year to severala month, eitherentry level redwines speciallymade to meetsweeter Chinesetastes, or top-endprestige wines.36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

The key to this was the signing of a cellar doors aimed mostly at corporate in annual sales to Australian food andjoint venture deal in 2012 with Chinese entertaining: “It’s a prestige thing, corporate beverage brands.businessman Li Ming Zhu. It was reported programs like this are massive in China.”at the time that Tomich Wines would The deal will see the establishment of ainvest about $2 million in the project while While Randal doesn’t want to be specific designated aisle selling “famous AustralianMr Zhu, an advertising and marketing about figures, he concedes that China brands”, including milk powder, vitamins,specialist, would promote the Tomich exports have gone from two containers a wine and biscuits. It’s huge - RT-Mart hasbrand in the region. year to “several a month”, either entry level 378 supermarkets across China and 3000 red wines specially made to meet sweeter convenience stores, and last year clocked “I think if you have a physical presence it’s Chinese tastes, or top-end prestige wines up sales of more than $16 billion.seen that you’re serious about the market,” for the cellar door corporate clients.Randal said. “The cellar door concept “We went into RT-Mart wanting to sell wineincludes wine education, sales, and trade Randal’s entrepreneurial skills have led and ended up signing a food deal. That'seducation as well. Our aim is to hold a wine to yet another potential game changing China,” Randal said. party every Friday night for about 80 to 100 deal, in which, in conjunction with hispeople - very similar to what we do here.” wine partners the Zhu family, he secured Previous page: John Tomich. a distribution agreement with China’s Opposite top: Randal and John Tomich in the vineyard. But it’s a little more than that, as biggest hypermarket chain, RT-Mart, Opposite bottom: Randal Tomich and Li Ming Zhu.Randal explains. These are really private which could deliver more than $500 million Top: Tomich Cellar door exterior. Below: Tomich Cellar door interior. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 37

NORTHERN STARSWHILE NEW ZEALAND’S NORTH ISLAND IS HOME TO A LARGEPERCENTAGE OF THE NATION’S VINEYARDS, ITS STRENGTH LIES INTHE ALTERNATIVE GRAPES GROWERS HAVE EMBRACED.MICHAEL COOPER Even further north, Karikari Estate also closed its bottling plant and storage winemaker Alan Collinson praises pinotage warehouse at Nobilo Estate, near theFROM subtropical Northland to cool- (a cross of pinot noir and cinsaut). “It’s a highway through Huapai. The companyclimate Wairarapa, the wine regions of very underrated variety which grows moved in response to a change in landthe North Island have a diverse array very well here. It has great structure and zoning, which designated the site as aof soils and climates for grape growing. cellars well.” “special housing area”.Together with Auckland and Gisborne -but not Hawke’s Bay, profiled separately Auckland is another old region. From Constellation already contracted out halfin Winestate - the four regions are home the early 1900s, with a cluster of Croatian its bottling and will extend that. It will alsoto over 30 per cent of the country’s wine immigrants and others of Lebanese and open a new head office in West Auckland,producers, which in 2015 produced only English background, Auckland rivalled keep its Selaks winery in Hawke’s Bay, and7 per cent of New Zealand wine. Hawke’s Bay as one of the two centres of try to double the processing capacity at NZ wine. Today, however, Auckland has its Drylands winery in Marlborough to 40 Northland was the cradle of NZ wine - just 1 per cent of the country’s total area million litres (over 4 million cases).here the first vines were planted in 1819 of bearing vines.and the first wine flowed in the 1830s. But Gisborne, on the east coast, was theNorthland’s 14 producers crushed just 203 In West Auckland, the softly undulating industry’s bread basket during the 1970stonnes of grapes in 2015 - less than 0.1 district around the townships of Kumeu, and early 1980s, but now produces onlyper cent of all NZ wine. Most of the wine is Huapai and Waimauku had over half 5 per cent of the national grape crop.consumed by the tourists who flock each of Auckland’s vineyard area in 1975. “Gisborne has had some really toughyear to the Bay of Islands. Today, the vineyards and cellar doors are times,” admits viticulturist Janey Halliday, disappearing. “but we’re trying really hard to redefine Rod MacIvor, co-owner of Marsden ourselves. We used to be known as theEstate at Kerikeri, says Northland’s Treasur y Wine Estates recently ‘chardonnay capital of NZ’, and althoughsunshine and heat “allow for good brix announced the closure of its Matua we are trying really hard to re-establish that(sugar) levels, but the possibility of rain packaging and cellar door operation at title, we also want the world to know thatmeans viticultural practices need to be Waimauku, triggering about 50 job losses. Gisborne grows some fabulous alternativeat their best... careful site selection on Hawke’s Bay fruit will be processed by a whites and aromatics.”slopes, with the potential for good air third party and the juice transported tomovement, is essential.” Matua Marlborough winery, where the Albarino is a top example. This Spanish company has now based all its production. and Portuguese grape produces crisp, aromatic, full-flavoured white wines US-owned Constellation Brands NZ has38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

\" WE ALSO WANT THE with strong personality, and with its Vineyard and Palliser Estate, but in 2015 loose clusters and thick skins, has good the Wairarapa’s 67 producers were theWORLD TO KNOW THAT resistance to rain. Albarino “requires source of barely 1 per cent of NZ wine.GISBORNE GROWS warmer conditions to achieve optimalSOME FABULOUS flavour and ripeness,” believes Richard “It can be quite tricky when travellingALTERNATIVE WHITES Painter, of Te Awa winery in Hawke’s Bay, overseas to explain the difference who crafts a striking Gisborne albarino between wines from Martinborough andAND AROMATICS. \" under the Left Field brand. Marlborough,” notes Pip Goodwin, CEO of Palliser Estate, “let alone between the Prosecco could be the next big thing, Wairarapa and other NZ places with ‘wai’ according to viticultural scientist Susan (water) in their names.” Wheeler. “A lot of growers are starting to take out older, less popular varieties, The new name, Wellington Wine Country, meaning there is probably big scope for makes sense. In terms of those who future plantings,” she said. Within three pioneered its vineyards and keep buying years she hopes to have 10 to 20ha of its savoury, complex reds, the Wairarapa prosecco vines planted in Gisborne. has always been dominated by its proximity to Wellington. Linda Tatare, of Tuwharetoa and Ngati Porou descent, is eager to build on Opposite: Palliser Estate is a medium-sized winery, the region’s long-proven affinity with producing consistently impressive pinot noir, gewurztraminer by targeting Maori. Her chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and riesling Rawhiti Gewurztraminer is a distinctly under its premium Palliser Estate and lower-tier medium style: “I’ve been really surprised Pencarrow brands. at how Maori like it,” she said. Above top: Palliser Estate helped to pioneer Further south, Wellington Wine Country winegrowing in Martinborough in 1980, and its pinot is the new identity of the Wairarapa wine noir is still one of the district’s greatest. region. Martinborough, its high profile district, first planted in 1979, has several Above below: Gisborne has built a strong reputation famous pinot noir producers, including for rich, ripe, well-rounded chardonnays and Ata Rangi, Dry River, Martinborough gewürztraminers, and is now the source of an exciting new variety – albarino. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 39

PLAYING IT COOL \" Over the last two decades or so the Adelaide Hills has grown to having over 50 wineries and developed a reputation as an excellent cool-climate area. \" DAN TRAUCKI IN the early 1980s I was the junior partner in a newly set up video distributorship business and once a month the partners “did lunch”. When business was challenging we drank Hardy’s Seigersdorf Rhine Riesling (as riesling was called in those days), but when we had had a good month we lashed out and drank Petaluma Riesling. That was my first, albeit unknowing, exposure to Adelaide Hills wines. In those days nobody but Adelaide residents and the Hills orchardists knew much about the Adelaide Hills as it mainly supplied apples and cherries to the Adelaideans. Since then, the area has undergone a vinous elevation to become one of the most exciting cool-climate winegrowing areas in Australia. Like all “overnight” successes, it took a long time to happen (around 30 years), but in that time the area has become home to some really exciting wines and innovative wineries. Little by little, winemakers began to see the benefits of having a cool-climate region in South Australia, especially being so close to Adelaide. Initially the area kicked- off with riesling and pinot noir, followed closely by chardonnay. As the sauvignon blanc phenomena took off in the late 1990s, the Adelaide Hills gradually became the home of Australian cool-climate sauvignon blanc. It was this, more than anything else,

that fuelled the dramatic growth in the Wine Company of the Year and its Nest Egg which is making fantastic wines from thearea’s plantings. Along the way growers 2012 Chardonnay won the Wine of the Year native Austrian varieties - gruner veltlinerplanted merlot, cabernet sauvignon and trophy - a very impressive trifecta. in the whites and blaufrankisch, zweigeltsome shiraz, then some more adventurous and soon St Laurent in the reds. I believesouls came along and started to plant non- Other mainstream producers include that Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner is themainstream varieties such as malbec and Petaluma Wines, established in 1976 by Australian benchmark wine for this excitingcabernet franc. industry doyen Brian Croser (originally up and coming white wine variety. At based at Bridgewater Mill but now at present it is the only winery in Australia Over the last two decades or so the Woodside) and the Balhannah-based growing zweigelt and St Laurent, but I amAdelaide Hills has grown to having over wineries of Shaw & Smith (home to sure it won’t be long before others follow suit50 wineries and developed a reputation Australia’s first Master of Wine), Nepenthe, as they discover the allure of these excellentas an excellent cool-climate area, which Tapanappa (Croser family) and The Lane. In varieties, which are like a pinot noir that hasnot only produces top quality, cool-climate Basket Range there’s Basket Range Wines been working out at the gym.mainstream varieties such as pinot noir, and Kersbrook Hill (which has diversifiedriesling, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, into cider). Also in Hahndorf is Sam Scott, who isbut also great cool-climate examples being innovative with Italian varietals andof mainstream varieties which are not Spanning both the traditional and some interesting and unusual blendsusually associated with cool areas such alternative varieties is Paracombe Wines such as the La Prova Bianco, a blend ofas cabernet sauvignon, merlot and some (Paracombe) - riesling, pinot noir, shiraz pinot grigio, fiano, garganega and biancosensational shiraz. More recently the area viognier, cabernet franc and malbec. d’Alessano and the Scott Lo Zingaro “Thehas become home to a growing number Gypsy” a blend of shiraz, sangioveseof wineries that are successfully dabbling Likewise, Artwine (Woodside), spans and lagrein. By Jingo (Mt Barker) alsoin “alternative” varieties. These are non- the mainstream/alternative divide with its specialises in Italian varieties, with itsmainstream varieties which are very popular sensational fiano and tempranillo blend in montepulciano being world-class.and successful in their native country. By the alternative variety list, while its Grumpycareful selection of varieties that come Old Man Grenache and The Dog House To celebrate the area’s elevated statusfrom areas with similar climates, the Hills is Merlot are great mainstream wines. locals have organised the Crush festivalrapidly becoming the Aussie home to some at the end of January, prior to the start ofof these cool-climate European varieties Another producer with a foot in both vintage. This year 41 of the area’s wineriessuch as fiano, gruner veltliner, pinot grigio camps is Geoff Hardy (Kuitpo), who participated. Some venues just heldgarganega and zweigelt, as well as some of produces outstanding Adelaide Hills wines tastings, while others offered scrumptiousthe more climate adaptable varieties such under his various labels - chardonnay, food, live music and one winery even hadas montepulciano and tempranillo. pinot noir, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, a cinema set up in the vineyard. It was a fiano, gruner veltliner, tempranillo and weekend to remember. The roll call of the regional conventional teroldego. For the record, Geoff Hardy wonproducers is very impressive and includes the Winestate Australian Wine Company Above: Wine and beautiful weather at the Crush 2016Bird in Hand (Woodside), winner of the 2015 of the Year in 2012 and 2014 - quite an Festival in the Adelaide Hills.Winestate Australian Winemaker of the Year, achievement. Opposite page top and bottom: Paracombe winery Crush 2016. Leading the charge of the experimental brigade is Hahndorf Hill Wines (Hahndorf) May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 41

winestatepromotionAn Expression ofRegional Excellence42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

Fleur du Cap unlocks the natural expression of grapes Fleur du Capfrom select parcels of vines grown in diverse locations Sauvignon Blancthroughout the Western Cape region. Each site is selected Bergkelder Selectionfor its unique combination of soils, climate, aspect andorientation best suited to a particular grape variety. The The balanced acidity and tropicalwinemaking team calls this Regional Excellence. Sauvignon Blanc expression melds seamlessly with creamy salmonBy working closely with a well-established network of lightly cured with Himalyan Salt.growers who share a single minded vision of refinementand fruit purity, Fleur du Cap is in the enviable position of Fleur du Capselecting the pick of the crop. This sets them apart, with Chardonnayrichly layered wines of great complexity and finesse, true Bergkelder Selectionto their origins. The fresh citrus notes of this Balanced and elegant, Fleur du Cap wines are generous Chardonnay cut through the expressions of varietal character. Their complexity and spiciness of pastrami trout dustedrichness are fundamental to a unique sensory experience with Persian Blue salt.of pairing wine and salt, another of nature’s gifts rooted inRegional Excellence. As with wine, area, climate and the Fleur du Capelements all dictate the character of the salt. Cabernet Sauvignon Bergkelder Selectionwww.fleurducap.co.za Complex flavours of blackcurrant and mocha supported by firm tannins from well-integrated oaking are a fine match for salted beef cured in Oryx crystals from South African desert plains. Fleur du Cap Laszlo 2012 A rich and powerful blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The flagship of Fleur Du Cap exhibits characters of tobacco, vanilla, ripe prunes, blackcurrants and cherries. Which meld seam- lessly with superbly integrated oak nuances with a long distinctive finish of berries and oak spices. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 43

winestatepromotion

Fleur du Cap Fleur du Cap has triumphed at the 2015 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show as Bestcrowned Red Wine Overall and Best Shiraz, winning two trophies with a 2013 wine from theSouth African Bergkelder Selection.top red at2015 Trophy This phenomenal feat by the Bergkelder Selection Shiraz 2013 is the third majorWine Show achievement by Fleur du Cap so far this year, following gold medals for the Unfiltered Chardonnay 2014 at Chardonnay du Monde 2015 in France, and the Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 at Concours Mondial de Bruxelle 2015 held in Italy. One of South Africa’s most highly contested wine competitions, the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, attracted 1082 entries this year. The judging panel included international wine commentators, Singapore-based Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, editor-in- chief of The Wine Advocate and eRobertParker.com; John Gilman, editor of www. viewfromthecellar.com in New York; and Steven Spurrier, Chairman of the Decanter Worldwide Wine Awards in the UK. The winning Fleur du Cap Bergkelder Selection Shiraz 2013 was crafted predominantly from cool climate vineyards in the Cape Agulhas area by the accomplished winemaking team at Die Bergkelder in Stellenbosch. Careful maturation with primarily French and a smaller component of American oak lends well-integrated spicy nuances and contemporary flair to this elegant Shiraz. “Sweet cherry and plums with traces of white pepper are evident on the nose while the palate is full yet soft with layers of berry flavours. Gentle oaking imparts hints of oak spices and a good tannic backbone,” says winemaker Wim Truter who takes over as Fleur du Cap Cellarmaster at die Bergkelder from Andrea Freeborough in July. The elegance of this wine reflects its cool climate origins and is affirmation that Fleur du Cap’s pursuit of regional excellence in sourcing grapes from diverse regions that are most suited to capture a particular style and varietal character, is paying off for the Fleur du Cap team. “We rely heavily on our viticulturist, Bennie Liebenberg, to deliver the goods in terms of finding and nurturing the pick of the crop in diverse vineyard sites throughout the Western Cape, that give us the necessary building blocks in the cellar to craft our wines,” adds Wim. Fleur du Cap Bergkelder Selection Shiraz is available at leading wine outlets country- wide or the Fleur du Cap cellar door at Die Bergkelder in Stellenbosch. For more information visit www.fleurducap.co.za join the Fleur du Cap community on Facebook or follow them on Twitter @FleurduCapWines. May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 45

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGTHE modern interpretation of Indian food But the paratha bread is reason enough to seriously rich person’s idea of modernity.was kick-started in London back in the 1980s make a booking - flaky, crispy and easy to The Wilmot, 339 Pitt St, Sydney; phoneand ’90s by mould-breaking restaurants gobble down quickly. From the curries and (02) 8027 8000.such as Chutney Mary and The Cinnamon grill lineup, the bone marrow and KashmiriClub. Today’s resurgence of contemporary lamb curry with yogurt and black cinnamon Opened in December, Stambuli bringsIndian is different and emanates from Indian was a textbook lesson in pairing and a slice of Turkey to trendy Enmore Rd.chefs of the calibre of Gaggan Anand, presentation. It was tough to make a second Yet another re-working of a building fromwhose namesake restaurant in Bangkok selection because the menu is so full of yesteryear, the 1950s pink and purplebecame the first Indian restaurant anywhere standouts such as Goan pork belly curry facade of the venerable Marie-Louiseto make the top 20 on the San Pellegrino’s to pan-flashed clams and mussels, Kerala Hair Salon has been retained. Inside it’slist of the world's top 100 restaurants. In coconut broth and brown rice. The deciding a different design story from black andFebruary, Rohit Khattar opened a New York vote went to 5-spice crusted barramundi, white tiled floors to marble tabletops andoutpost of Indian Accent, his rule-breaking string hoppers, turmeric and coconut vintage wallpaper, courtesy of interiorsNew Delhi temple of “reimagined” Indian molee, whose unctuousness matched its wizard Sarah Doyle. The threesomecuisine. The esteemed Abhi’s in Strathfield artwork appearance. You just know the behind the project boast an awesomehas been keeping pace with the popularity gulab jamun here is not going to be heavy pedigree - Ibrahim Kasif (ex Porteno)of contemporary Indian. But last year the dough balls swimming in a cloying syrup. and Elvis Abrahanowicz and Joe Valoretrend intensified with the opening of Bang Nope, out comes the lightest curd kneaded (Continental, Mary’s, Bodega, LP’s Qualityand the now-closed Subcontinental. Dr into springy rounds rolled in “coconut sand”. Meats). The double-storey restaurantSam Prince, a well-known entrepreneur, In a nod to Western tastes, one of the most sports a more casual dining area, withphilanthropist and restaurateur, who created popular sweets are the watermelon and mint stools downstairs and regular tablesnearby Mejico and Zambrero in Canberra, iced lollies to soothe the palate and “aid upstairs. No surprise that Kasif’s menu ishas nailed the constantly developing global digestion”. Indu is a must-do for anyone a contemporary take on traditional Turkishethos at his latest venture, Indu. Located in who values Indian food’s metamorphosis fare, from cold meze plates centred bya heritage-listed building in George St, the from oily curries and fusion gourmet to truly stuffed mussels, fish and vegetables to hotbasement premises once housed a branch elegant modernity. Indu, 350 George St, meze platters of fried fish, and pan-friedof Dymocks. Any suggestion of a bookworm Sydney; phone (02) 9223 0158. liver. The charcoal griddle is constantlyhangout has been swept away by design packed, not with kebabs and skewers, butmaestros, Project Z, who have turned the The new Primus hotel is also ensconced with lamb cutlets, chicken, quail and wholesubterranean space into a smart refuge in a heritage landmark building - the fish. Don't miss the seftali - lamb kofta inof brass bells, embroidered banquettes, former Sydney Water Board HQ. A five-star caul fat and a herb garden of parsley. Foropen spice jars and a custom-made dosa property redeveloped by the Chinese- an authentic touch, order Turkish wine, rakibar. Cocktails are a major magnet for owned Greenland International Hotels or Eres beer. Stambuli, 135 Enmore Rd,millennials and tables of 20-somethings Group, the spectacular lobby drips with Enmore; phone (02) 8624 3132. were sipping expertly-blended mixes such Art Deco glamour from the eight red marbleas the Chennai Chiller, Liquid Yoga and columns to the skylight flooding the space Above & Top: Delicious food from Indu restaurant.Kerala Kolada on the night we dropped with light. The Wilmot is the hotel’s slickby. The wine list is no afterthought and signature restaurant, and chef Ryan Hongdon’t be fooled by headings like Finesse is pulling in the punters. Korean-born Hong& Elegance and Fire Extinguishers. Quality has worked at some of Sydney’s top nameis the common thread from Jasper Hill restaurants, including Rockpool Bar & GrillCornella Vineyard bottlings to Trimbach and Black by Ezard. The clientele is a mixReserve Riesling. Chef Bihal Kumar hinges of corporates, foodies and internationalhis menu on Sri Lankan and South Indian tourists enjoying the plush comfort offlavours. It’s all about sharing, but don’t the hotel’s 172 luxury rooms. There’s anlet your eyes get ahead of you, small and emphasis on NSW produce in the go-torich is the guiding tone. We started with listings, ranging from sweetbreads, lambtwo selections - one from the coast and loin and barley through abalone andone from the village. Translation: cured seaweed risotto, beef tartare and Moretonsea bass, flamed chillies, coconut vinegar Bay bugs with edamame and seasonaland crispy string hoppers, and sesame salads. Worth a visit for the decor alone - arolled beetroot croquettes of hung yogurt,green chilli, ginger and garlic raita. Theytasted extra good, knowing that Dr Princehas teamed with Palmera, an organisationassisting village women in rural Sri Lanka.46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

WINE OF THEYEAR TASTINGSaturday 7 May 2016 1pm - 5pmMontsalvat, Eltham (Melbourne)The Long Gallery at Montsalvat, 7 Hillcrest Ave., Eltham VICTickets - contact [email protected] orContact - Winestate [email protected]: 08 8357 9277

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINCOOL, understated and stylish wine bars Fitzroy’s Rockwell & Sons, have teamed The room is simply dressed - designed byare opening throughout Melbourne’s inner- up with sommelier Banjo Harris Plane IF Architecture - it’s a partitioned horseshoecity. What’s new about that? Well, these dens and manager Michael Bascetta, both with painted brickwork, lots of warm woodare owned and operated by some staff with formerly at globally renowned restaurant and black banquettes that are easy to meltserious industry pedigrees and experience, Attica, to open Bar Liberty, also in Fitzroy. into. 53 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; phone (03)and all these new players have created The new wine bar and eatery is pegged 9419 6262.menus with quirky, seasonal combinations by its owners as being a venue that is anof ingredients - think pickled mussels with accessible place to eat and drink. In what Smalls Wine Bar opened last year inrouille and whole rainbow trout with wild was previously a tacqueria filled with vivid South Melbourne. Owned and operatedpurslane and horseradish - and are creating artwork, there is now a pared-back space by media chick, TV personality and cleverblurred lines between what defines a bar with lots of chalky walls, minimalist lighting hospo professional Jess Ho, the smalland a restaurant. Here’s a look at a few of and timber. Wall’s menu is indulgent and space (it’s actually named after Ho’s drivethe new kids. edgy, expanding his high-end restaurant to have small wine producers on the list) is muscles - whipped mussels on a crisp warm, stylish and smart, with a bar dressed Chef Dave Verheul and manager potato slice, XO pipis with a solid kick and in handmade porcelain tiles, a hiddenChristian McCabe, two of the team behind soft GLT sandwiches (soft white bread waiters’ station and a choice of bar stools orCarlton’s The Town Mouse, opened Embla holding gribenes - chicken skin instead of booth to cosy into. Both the menu and winein the middle of the CBD last December. bacon - lettuce and tomato). Harris Plane’s list changes regularly but you can usuallyA huge wood oven and grill fire up the off-centre drinks list is insightful and makes try the shiraz that Smalls sommelier Wiremuwine bar's open kitchen and they’re used for great reading (while waiting for friends Andrews and Ho made last year as partto create Verhuel’s menu of intelligent to arrive). There are two separate dining of Wine Baptism of Fire - a competition fordishes to match wines you may not have areas and plans to open out the back in the amateur winemakers, or perhaps a Domaineheard of from McCabe’s adventurous months to come. 234 Johnston St, Fitzroy; de Belliviere ’13 Premices Jasnieres Cheninand far-flung list. There’s roasted broccoli barliberty.com. Blanc by the glass. The menu is seasonalwith house-made sunflower miso, and and the dishes are structured aroundanchovy toast and a roasted chicken that Marion is chef and restaurateur Andrew the wines, perhaps a decadent trufflehas pundits whispering “best chicken in McConnell’s most recent addition to his croque monsieur, mussels in a champagnetown” rumours. It’s very good. The room is stable which includes Meatsmith, The reduction or oysters with a classic Kilpatrickall dark and moody with exposed timber Builder’s Arms, SuperNormal, Cumulus Inc mix. Ho has designed a space to suit her,and clever cornicing, brick walls and and Marion’s neighbour, Cutler & Co. her experience and her intelligent approachgranite floors, and the 60-seater dining The menu is short, sharp and constantly to food and wine. 20-22 Yarra Place, Southroom is dotted with low and high tables. changing depending on season and Melbourne; [email protected] don’t take bookings so you may not availability. A snack of mussels and ’nduja orhave a choice about which seat you get, ox tongue mortadella may lead on to grilled Above: Marion restaurant interior & exterior in Fitzroy.but one of the best seats in the house is porterhouse with a wild weed salad, and theoverlooking Verheul and his team at work wines and drinks list, by manager Andrewin the kitchen. 122 Russell St, Melbourne; Joy and head sommelier Liam O’Brien isphone (03) 9654 5923. embla.com.au. flexible and interesting, full of dusky craft ciders, Jura chardonnay and Australian Chef Casey Wall and front-of-house makers such as Ochota and Le Stagiaire.manager Manu Potoi, who co-own48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELBURGUNDY lovers will know the ancient several highly successful, award-winning cheese toasties (raclette, comte andfable of The Wolves of Morey Saint Denis. venues that include Gerard’s Bistro, gruyere) pan-fried in lashings of butterChef and restaurateur Paul McGivern Gerard’s Bar, Laruche, The Defiant Duck and the parmesan and pea croquettes withwas told the tale while doing vintage there and Hatch & Co, which is now in five smoked chilli and manchego. Meanwhileover a decade ago. For those who don’t, locations. Next door to the ever-popular the folks over by the river at Hamilton inlegend has it that during a famine, the Laruche is the group’s latest venture, The the city’s north are blaming it on the Greek.townspeople went out at night in search Apo, so named because the heritage- Atalanta, named after the goddess ofof the neighbour’s livestock and, when listed site was an Apothecary in a past the hunt, opened quietly after Christmasconfronted, blamed the abductions on life. Beautiful brick walls, floor-to-ceiling in the popular complex Portside Wharf.wolves. To this day villagers are known windows and modern furnishings create Decorated in cool shades of green, blondas wolves and it’s the inspiration behind an elegant ambience, and all the action wood and white, the lines between indoorMcGivern’s latest project, The Wolfe, a happened in the open kitchen, which is the and out are blurred and there’s a large opengorgeous gem of a bistro in East Brisbane, domain of chef Braden White. Upstairs it’s kitchen in the centre of the space. Mezze -just a couple of kilometres from the CBD. The all about the drinks - expert cocktail makers lemony haloumi, charcoaled octopus withmenu and website features detailed pencil create fresh concoctions daily matched a grapefruit dressing, flash fried calamari,sketches by local artist Barry Patenaude, to one of Brisbane’s most eclectic and spanakopita and Greek meatballs - arewhich bring the whole story to life and delicious compilations of bar snacks. lapped up in the courtyard with cocktailscomplements the classic design of the and the liquorice wafts of Ouzo. There’s aroom. Original illustrations hang on the wall Back downstairs in the dining room there giant chef’s table for serious feasting andabove unclothed tables set with glassware are a few must-haves on the dining menu a five or seven-course menu speciallyfit for anything McGivern procures from - the chicken liver eclair being the top of prepared for you by chef Dean BrewerBurgundy. The food is a proud ode to his the list. Soft, creamy liver parfait is encased called the “Greek Feed” or you can createfavourite wines - asparagus with a hen’s in a crispy eclair dotted with seeds and your own from the “gathered” and “hunted”egg, comte and olives works impeccably there’s a dipping sauce of concentrated sections where dishes like char-grilled flankwith a good chardonnay and the confit chicken broth and a confit egg yolk that steak and rosemary potatoes, smashedduck leg with duck ham and cherries will you whisk together at the table and then chickpeas with burnt butter, slow cookedhave you positively hankering for a good dip in your eclair. It’s beyond rich, but so lamb leg and Neptune’s grill are on offer.pinot noir, of which there is a solid selection. very delicious and so is the lobster roll, a Pop in for a quick lunch and grab a gyro,Poached lobster sits on confit potatoes with featherweight brioche roll brimming with Atalanta style. Sticky pork with coriander isa “thermidor” salad of prawns and scallops, lobster dressing in an egg emulsion and drizzled with tzatziki and red onion, grilledthere’s a mighty cut of black angus served a sprinkling of chopped chives. More prawns and charcoal chicken is dressedwith charcoal mushrooms and an anchovy austere, but no less beautiful, is the hand- with hummus and there’s a tomato salsaand chilli butter which pairs beautifully with picked sand crab rolled in spinach with and garlic sauce over grilled haloumi.sides of green beans with olives and spiced finger lime and nasturtium leaves, a blob Portside Wharf, Shop 905/47 Hercules St,carrots topped with yoghurt and grains. of mayo liberally coated in a pea dust. This Hamilton; phone (07) 3868 4449. 989 Stanley St, East Brisbane; phone (07) is a picture of elegant restraint, clean and3891 7772. taut flavours that feel like they’re doing you Top: Interior of The Apo restaurant. good. 690 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; phone Bottom: Food from The Apo, sand crab rolled in The Moubarak family has a solid name (07) 3252 2403. spinach with finger lime and nasturtium leaves.in the Brisbane restaurant scene boasting Late nighters are lapping up the three- May/June 2016 W I N E S TAT E 49

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSIT used to be called the Starlight Room - Windy Point Lookout, Belair Rd, Belair. courses. 94 Frome St, Adelaide. Open forand for good reason. The dining room at Open for dinner Monday-Saturday; phone lunch Tuesday-Saturday, dinner Monday-Windy Point Restaurant has a retractable (08) 8278 8255. Saturday; phone (08) 8224 0004.roof to let the stars shine in and, if that’snot enough, spectacular wall-to-wall views When Andre Ursini opened his restaurant, There can be few more sociable andover Adelaide. Andre’s Cucina and Polenta Bar, there welcoming restaurants than Peel St, where were many who assumed his menu would chefs Jordan Theodorous and Martin For many customers it’s still considered be all about polenta. How wrong they were. Corcoran dispense ravishing, fresh, full-to be big-night-out territory. But Windy More than three years later Andre’s Cucina flavoured dishes from an open kitchen thatPoint has become less predictable (the Polenta Bar bit seems now to be an runs the full width of the restaurant behindthan it used to be, with executive chef optional addition to the name), is packed a long, polished concrete bar. AlthoughJustin Miles pushing Windy Point’s most nights, often noisy with enthusiastic now surrounded by the trendy little barstraditional boundaries with new menus customers and putting on a food show and eateries that pack the Peel-Leighand a very real commitment to local and that has made it one of Adelaide’s most street precinct, Peel St continues to standseasonal produce. His menu, like the in-demand restaurants. Ursini, who hates out as one of Adelaide’s most interesting,wine list and the place itself, has matured being identified as a finalist in a well- convivial and good value restaurants. Thebeyond being respectable to seriously known television cooking show, would blackboard wall menu tells the story withgood. Conservative tastes will welcome rather be known for enormous passion Mediterranean-Middle Eastern flavoursexcellent versions of dishes such as a for northern Italian cooking. With its walls in dishes such as heirloom baby carrots,classic chateaubriand, while there’s more lined with shelves stuffed with cookbooks labneh, haloumi, crunchy cumin, orangecontemporary dishes such as lamb rump and Italian pantry items, you could imagine dressing and zatar, banana blossom withwith Moroccan cauliflower, puffed rice, you’d walked into nonna’s kitchen, except chicken, chilli jam and coconut salad withcompressed cucumber and pomegranate that here you might start with meltingly crisp shallots, or their signature mullowaysyrup. A recent menu even included tender Angas beef carpaccio, followed by fish pasty. Theodorous’ cooking oftenKorean pork belly with pineapple chutney addictive, chunky white polenta chips with appears deceptively unsophisticated, butand daikon salad. But it’s when you get a tomato salsa, then the baked mulloway that simply means great ingredients haven’tto the vegetables that you really notice a with mussels prawns and roast fennel. If been mucked about with and destroyed.difference. Unlike many chefs, Miles is not there’s gnocchi, freshly made and meltingly Flavours are punchy and beautifully“vegephobic” to the extent that not only are tender, then grab it. Yes, the polenta dishes balanced, the produce exceptional andhis side dishes adventurous - try Korean are great, too. To get the best of what’s even the “smaller” servings are generous,fried broccoli with rosemary and garlic available on the day you have to look which makes sharing dishes a realisticcustard with chilli sauce, for example - but beyond the printed menu to the extensive prospect here. The wine list is alwayshe has a respectable separate vegetarian wall-mounted “consigli” menu where the interesting, with plenty by the glass. 9menu and a newly-introduced seven-course real seasonal treasures will most likely be Peel St, Adelaide. Open for breakfast andvegetarian degustation menu. And it’s not found, but if you’ve starved for a day and lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Wednesday-just non-meat eaters who will celebrate are up to a full-on treat then the chef’s Saturday; phone (08) 8231 8887. because the degustation menu is a tour choice Menu Fisso is the way to go. It’s alsode force of complex, interesting dishes great value for money at $62 for four-five Above: Peel Street.that would satisfy the hungriest omnivore.It’s required Miles to make contact withthe most discerning vegetable growers,which he’s done via local distributor AJMProduce, giving fresh and seasonal realmeaning. Menu description is sparse to saythe least - the opening course is labelled“mushroom”, which leads to a beautifulplate of crumbly mushroom “soil” with babysweetcorn, tiny pickled beets and radishes,dots of beetroot gel and more. The zucchinidish brings roasted zucchini and a scatterof zucchini flowers, creamy pea puree withdrained yoghurt (labneh) and tiny dotsof buffalo mozzarella. Decorative, labourintensive and, all up, extraordinary value.50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2016