Winestate Magazine May June 2012

travelbriefsnamed after grape varietals and a traditional DAILY TASTINGS grooner feltleener) as part of a collaborativehomestead. The new units feature king- project aimed at establishing the Hills assize beds, flat screen TVs, self-contained SHAW + SMITH’S tasting room is all Australia’s premium region for this newkitchenettes, en-suite bathrooms, ducted about wine education. Previously open variety. The project is a joint venture betweenheating/air-conditioning and the latest only at weekends, the facility now offers the Adelaide Hills Vine Improvement Inc andappliances. Gourmet breakfast provisions, semi-formal tastings seven days a week Hahndorf Hill Winery, which imported threesourced locally, are provided to each from 11am-5pm. Each tasting features a clones of gruner veltliner from Austria in 2006guest. The Homestead can be used as one flight of 40ml of four Shaw + Smith wines, and produced South Australia’s first grunerlarge residence or two private apartments. accompanied by a cheese sampler plate. veltliner wine in 2010. Prue Henschke, chairComprised of king and queen bedrooms Cost is $14 a person and is redeemable of the Adelaide Hills Vine Improvement Incand a large sun room, this heated and air on purchase of six or more bottles of wine. (AHVII), said the variety was eminently suited-conditioned home can sleep up to 10 but Bookings are essential for groups over six; to the terroir of the Adelaide Hills Wine Regioncan also be a luxurious two-person getaway. phone (08) 8398 0500. as it requires a cool climate with a high diurnalFor accommodation inquiries phone (08) temperature variation. “It’s those wonderfully8388 9694. www.longviewvineyard.com.au. AIMING FOR cool mornings that we experience during the REGIONAL ADVANTAGE growing season in the Hills that make certainCHOICE OF STYLES sites in our region the perfect spot for this A GROUP of grapegrowers in the Adelaide new Austrian variety,” she said. “The trial sitesAMBLE at Hahndorf offers a choice of Hills region are looking to the future and selected from many applications will give usthree very different bed and breakfast investing in a new, alternative, white grape important information on vine managementaccommodation styles in lovely gardens variety. In recent months five wineries in the and wine quality, which will be passed on tojust a 150m walk from the main street of the Adelaide Hills have planted the emerging prospective growers.” The wineries involvedtourism hub of the Adelaide Hills. Amble white grape gruner veltliner (pronounced in the project include Longview vineyard,Wren is a cosy, self-contained, four-star Macclesfield, Deviation Road vineyard westrated cottage ideal for couples. It has its of Stirling, Henschke Lenswood vineyard,own private spa, deck and views of an Mt Bera vineyard, Cudlee Creek and NovaEnglish-style garden from which guests Vita vineyard at Kenton Valley/Gumeracha.may watch the antics of many species David Coleman, AHVII operations manager,of native birds, while Amble Fern, with said that even more wineries in the Adelaidetwo bathrooms, is suitable for up to four Hills would plant the grape later this yearpeople, and is a contemporary-styled once further gruner veltliner material becamestudio overlooking gardens with its own available. “The collaborative aim of our regionprivate patio. It also has a spa and a private is to build sufficient critical mass of this newcourtyard. Amble Over is an upstairs variety so that we can aim to develop a bitapartment for couples with both garden of a regional advantage,” he said. Grunerand rural views, a spa and private front veltliner is indigenous to Austria where itbalcony. The three properties are just a is the most widely planted grape variety,20-minute drive from Adelaide CBD and producing a spicy, fresh, white wine with awithin walking distance of Hahndorf’s many very typical white pepper flavour on the finish,pubs, cafes and restaurants and prices and is internationally renowned for its food-start from around $150 a night depending friendly nature. Hahndorf Hill co-owner Larryon the season. The same management also Jacobs said: “If wine fashions change andhandles Amble Inn, a fully furnished, “log gruner veltliner becomes the new darling ofcabin” style house with three bedrooms, full the white wine scene, then it will be fantastickitchen facilities and lovely rural outlook. for the Adelaide Hills to be able to lead theAmble Inn has a two night minimum and charge with this grape, and claim it as itsbreakfast provisions are not included. signature variety.”Amble at Hahndorf is at 10 HerefordAve, Hahndorf; phone (08) 8388 1467. Above: Longview cellar door. Below: Amble bedroom.www.amble-at-hahndorf.com.au. Opposite page: The Stirling hotel exterior and their Moose Room private dining. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 101

ADELAIDE HILLS149 TASTED76 AWARDEDADELAIDE HILLSSuffering from a very difficult, wet 2011 vintage the Hahndorf Hill Winery Tomich HillHills did well to produce any wines at all and it is a Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio Single Vineyardcredit to the winemakers who made superior wines. 2011 HHH Adelaide Hills SauvignonHowever, it also offered the opportunity to taste Nose shows hints of pears with Blanc 2011 HHHsome older wines from this cool climate region. a touch of barley sugar. Lots of Lifted pungent complexity ofThe cabernets, merlot and shiraz wines are well worth flavour. Good food wine. $25 aromas and zesty palate withseeking out for elegance and length. tart, tangy, fruit flavours. $20 The Colonial Estate LongviewSPARKLING Shottesbrooke 1337 The Harris Vineyard Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc de Blanc NV HHH Adelaide Hills Blanc 2011 HHH8 TASTED Fragrances of lemon drops Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Zippy, fresh, varietally correct6 AWARDED with hints of honey and a light, A decent, well-balanced wine wine with sherbety-like citrussy palate. $25 with ripe fruit aromas and good characters and subtle, tropicalA solid class of broad, easy flavour persistence. $25 fruits. $18drinking styles showing good Nova Vita Firebirdfruit and freshness. Adelaide Hills Sparkling SAUVIGNON Anvers Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2010 HHH BLANC Sauvignon BlancWolf Blass Gold Label Pleasant, sherbety, strawberry 2011 HHHAdelaide Hills Pinot Noir aromas and slightly sweet 32 TASTED Sweet citrus aromas but moreChardonnay 2008 HHHH fruit palate with good acid 11 AWARDED of a tropical, fruit-like palateDeveloped honeyed aromas balance. $20 that is crisp and dry. $20with some nuttiness leading Again, 2011 was a difficult, Alta By Sarah Fletcherto a rich palate that’s full of PINOT GRIS/ wet vintage resulting in diluted Adelaide Hills Sauvignoncomplex, layered varietal fruit PINOT GRIGIO wines. The best ones did show Blanc 2011 HHHand marzipan flavours. $24.99 varietal character to a level, Pungent guava and fejoa nose, 15 TASTED offering nice drinking without and light, crisp palate withJoy Adelaide Hills 5 AWARDED great intensity. subtle flavours. $19.95Sparkling Pinot Noir K1 by Geoff Hardy2007 HHHH Some worthy efforts from Hardys Oomoo Gold LabelSubtle marzipan characters a few. It was a difficult, wet Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Adelaide Hills Sauvignonmingle with red apple aromas vintage for this variety. Blanc 2011 HHHH Blanc 2011 HHHwith a floral touch. Palate Nice intensity of sweet, Heady, exotic fig and tropicalshows nice lemony complexity The Black Chook tropical fragrances. Has good aromas, and bright, fresh andwith cracked wheat notes. $65 Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio weight, complexity and flavour lemony in the mouth. $20 2011 HHHH persistence. A touch sweet.Bird in Hand Adelaide A crisp and refreshing wine New Zealand-like. $18.99Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir with very aromatic, almond-like2011 HHH1/2 aromas, and long and lingering Wicks Estate AdelaideBright strawberry aromas and estery varietal fruit flavours. $17 Hills Sauvignon Blancfresh and juicy in the mouth with 2010 HHHHsome creaminess and pleasant, Paracombe Adelaide Hills Subtle lemon and gooseberryoff-dry, fruit flavours. $25 Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH aromas and complex palate “Honest light pink colour.” brimming over with flavour.Mojo By Rockbare Nice complexity of apple and Some residual sugar but inAdelaide Hills pear aromas. Very viscous gris balance. Still lively. $18Chardonnay Pinot Noir style of palate showing textureBrut Cuvee NV HHH and balance. $20 Barratt Piccadilly ValleySmells of strawberries and Sauvignon Blancapples. A lean palate, not Tomich Hill Single 2011 HHH1/2complex, but refreshing and Vineyard Adelaide Hills Solid, pungent, tropical varietalvibrant. $19.95 Pinot Grigio 2011 HHH characters on both nose and Pungent, peachy nose and long palate. Nicely paced length and palate with good acid backbone some sweetness. $22 and apple/pear flavours. $20 Paracombe Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Bright varietal aromas and simple, zesty, fresh flavours with hints of tropics. $21102 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingVerdun Park Lyla CHARDONNAYAdelaide Hills SauvignonBlanc 2011 HHH 18 TASTEDSubtle gooseberry nose with 8 AWARDEDherbal accents. Juicy, well-balanced palate with lots of The Hills have a good reputationflavour. $22 for chardonnay, but some here were moving back to broad,Bird in Hand over-oaked styles of the past.Adelaide Hills Sauvignon However, the best here wereBlanc 2011 HHH balanced with good fruit andPungent fragrances with acid to moderate the oak.underlying passionfruit notes.Complex palate; modest Wirra Wirra The 12th Manintensity. $25 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2011 HHHHOTHER An abundance of toasty, nutty,WHITE VARIETALS smoky aromas with a lighter& BLENDS style of palate showing good persistence of oak flavours and12 TASTED subtle fruit. $31.505 AWARDEDNo joy from the blends, but agood result from the rieslingsand viogniers along with a veryinteresting fiano that’s well-worth chasing up.Fox Gordon Anvers Adelaide HillsPrincess Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2Fiano 2011 HHHH A spicy, oak-driven nose and“White pepper on speed!” was showing plenty of wood onhow one judge described this the palate, layered with somenose. Palate has lovely weight warming alcohol. $28and balance with more of the Haselgrove Bella Vignapeppery characters. $19.95 Adelaide Hills ChardonnayFox Gordon Abby 2010 HHH1/2Adelaide Hills Viognier Subtle, lemony aromas with a2011 HHH1/2 hint of melon. Intense peachyWell-made, clean, fresh and flavours with attractive oak invery varietal with muted the background. $18apricot/lychee aromas Jacob’s Creek Reserveand flavours showing nice Adelaide Hills Chardonnayspiciness. $19.95 2010 HHH1/2La Bise (The Kiss) A graceful lightweight that hasAdelaide Hills some complexity and goodArneis 2011 HHH length of peach-like varietalAlmondy nose with pear-like fruit flavours. $18.99notes. Simple, well-textured Penny’s Hill Thepalate with flavours of fresh Handshake Adelaide Hillsstraw. $18 Chardonnay 2011 HHHMount Lofty Ranges A whiff of wood on theVineyard Hand Picked barnyardy nose and a tight,Lenswood Riesling lemon/apple palate. $192011 HHHBright, zesty aromas and crisp,piercing flavours. Will improvemore with some age. $22K1 by Geoff HardyLimited Release AdelaideHills Viognier 2009 HHHLoads of quality oak obviouson the nose and followsthrough to intense, tropicalfruit palate. $25 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 103

ADELAIDE HILLSK1 by Geoff Hardy Gold PINOT NOIR OTHER CABERNETLabel Adelaide Hills RED VARIETALS SAUVIGNONChardonnay 2009 HHH 13 TASTED & BLENDS & BLENDSSmells smoky, nutty and 6 AWARDEDlemony. Excellent palate 7 TASTED 9 TASTEDweight, balance and Some regions in the Hills 5 AWARDED 9 AWARDEDcomplexity. $35 produce great pinot noirs but An excellent class of consistently it’s very site specific. There Always an interesting class with good wines. The judges thoughtBird in Hand Nest Egg were some solid wines and several different varietals. This this the best class of reds tastedAdelaide Hills Chardonnay others that veered to dry reds time we saw good results from so far! In the right vintage on the2009 HHH rather than berry varietals. five different wines. The secret right site there is great potentialA rich, oily style with lots of fruit is to retain freshness and offer for this variety in this region.persistence and nice, savoury K1 by Geoff Hardy Gold flavours true to the variety rathercomplexity creeping in. $65 Label Adelaide Hills Pinot than offering just dry reds. Longview Devil’s Elbow Noir 2009 HHHH1/2 Adelaide Hills CabernetNova Vita Firebird A big, full-bodied pinot with The Pawn En Passant Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2Adelaide Hills Chardonnay some lovely perfumed, Adelaide Hills Tempranillo A complex and well-2010 HHH bramble-like varietal fruit with 2010 HHHH structured cabernet withLovely creamy oak blending excellent oak support and Smoky, meaty aromas and nice loads of good wood layeredwith ripe, floral fruit and has a elements of savoury bacon fat- mix of savoury, small goods- with lovely, minty, blackberrywarming finish. $25 like complexity. $35 like characters and jubey, black varietal fruit, ripe tannins and fruit flavours. Has complexity warming alcohol. $27ROSE Riposte The Sabre By Tim and character. $24 Bird in Hand Nest Egg Knappstein Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Cabernet9 TASTED Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH La Bise (The Kiss) Sauvignon 2009 HHHH3 AWARDED Lots of floral/forest floor Adelaide Hills Sangiovese “The Hills are really getting this varietal fruits with very good 2009 HHHH varietal right,” said one judge.The judges were looking for oak support. Developing lovely Quite an inky wine that’s This wine is rich, ripe and juicyfresh, lively balanced styles. complexity with hints of spice varietally correct with some with lots of fruit flavours andHere they saw a range from and balancing tannins. $30 lovely savoury varietal fruit, nice oak influence. $85light and bland to textured hints of tobacco, subtle woodand flavoursome. Deviation Road Adelaide and solid acid backbone. $18 Hills Pinot Noir 2010 HHHBird in Hand Fruity aromas with a caramel Protero Adelaide HillsAdelaide Hills Pinot edge and lots of flavour on the Nebbiolo 2006 HHHHRosé 2011 HHHH fleshy and firm palate. $32 Subdued, earthy bouquetAttractive, coppery pink wine with hints of licorice. A well-with fruit salad aromas and nice Paracombe Adelaide Hills structured palate with exotic, redpalate weight and length, with Pinot Noir 2011 HHH fruits holding up well and withpretty strawberry fruit flavours. A clean, light-bodied style with hints of tarry complexity. $55Very drinkable. $20 estery/tarry bouquet and fleshy, red fruit palate with subtle oak Hahndorf Hill WineryAlta For Elise use. $20 Blueblood Adelaide HillsAdelaide Hills Pinot Noir Blaufrankisch 2010 HHH1/2Rosé 2011 HHH Haselgrove Bella Vigna Great colour and subtle, spicySmells of strawberry wine Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir oaky/confectionery fruit aromasgums with simple, but clean 2010 HHH with long, grippy blackberryand fresh confectionery fruit A dry red style with lots of soft, palate and good acidity. $35flavours. $19.95 red fruits, firm tannic backbone and tart acidity. $25 Paracombe Adelaide HillsHahndorf Hill Winery Malbec 2009 HHH1/2Adelaide Hills d’Arenberg The Feral Fox Estery licorice nose with violet-Rosé 2011 HHH Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir like notes. More of the floral/A zesty, fresh and elegant 2010 HHH violet characters on the palate.wine with pretty pink hues and A darker fruit driven style with High acid. Grippy tannins. $27raspberry/strawberry fruit. $22 developing tarry aromas and big dry tannic palate. $30JUDGES Duane Coates Geoff Cowey Phil Reedman MW Winemaker for Cleggett’s, Senior oenologist with Master of Wine. Wine and Coates & Raydon Estate AWRI. He has wide retail industry consultant. Wines. Duane has a Masters vintage experience Formerly product of Oenology from Adelaide including Barossa, development manager of University and has gained Sunraysia, Great Western, Tesco stores, responsible for overseas winemaking Coonawarra, Tasmania, Australia, New Zealand and experience in Burgundy, including Burgundy, South America. Has judging the Northern Rhone Valley Priorat, Penedes, experience in the Riverland, regions in France, and the Martinborough. Judge at Adelaide Hills and McLaren Douro Valley in Portugal. New England Wine Show. Vale wine shows.104 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide HillsMaking fine wines for the global village Top Wine China (Beijing) China National Convention Centre Sulu Wines Exhibition stand number: 1723B-SULU Contact Australia Phone Number: +61-3-96022348 Australia or +61-425757156 Australia (Sarah Shi) Contact China Mobile Number: +86-13761807470 (Leon Li) www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

ADELAIDE HILLSProtero Gumeracha Paracombe Paracombe Griffin Adelaide HillsAdelaide Hills Cabernet Adelaide Hills Cabernet Adelaide Hills Cabernet Merlot 2009 HHHSauvignon 2007 HHHH Franc 2008 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2008 HHH Smells of hedgerows with aDense meaty/cedary bouquet A balanced, well-made wine Raspberry aromas and big, grippy, tannic palate andand lingering, fruit cake-like with good oak influence, ripe advanced earthy/cola palate good oak/fruit balance. $19flavours on a palate that shows juicy fruit and light acid palate with grippy tannins. $21 K1 by Geoff Hardy Goldfirm acidity and drying, tannin with flavour intensity. $27 Label Adelaide Hillsstructure. $25 Wicks Estate Adelaide MERLOT & BLENDS Merlot 2009 HHHTotino Estate Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Herbal/cola aromas and also aHills Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH 8 TASTED herbal influence to the greener2009 HHH1/2 A charming, well-balanced, 4 AWARDED palate. Fresh and simple. $35Estery Christmas cake nose. fruit-laden wine showing slightPalate has power yet elegance green edges. $20 A solid result with some SHIRAZ & BLENDSwith warming and complex Bird in Hand Adelaide success from a variety that isflavour profile. $19.95 Hills Cabernet Sauvignon usually blended. Quite strong, 17 TASTED 2010 HHH positive wines here. Wine gums on the nose and 14 AWARDED good length and intensity of flavour on the oaky palate. $35 Bird in Hand Adelaide These wines exhibited good K1 by Geoff Hardy Silver Hills Merlot 2009 HHHH winemaking with appropriate Label Adelaide Hills Smells a little of Christmas use of oak. “A good style of Cabernet Tempranillo cake and has lots of rich plum wine with ripeness but not 2009 HHH and blackberry flavours with overripe, offering nice, mid- Robust and rustic with nice well-handled oak and some weight drinking,” said one savoury, salami-like characters. warming alcohol. $35 judge. A strong class. Good ripe style. $20 Barratt The Ambrose Piccadilly Valley Merlot 2006 HHHH Light purple colour and decent length and vibrancy of dark, perfumed fruit supported by some lovely, bright, crisp acidity. $22PROFESSIONAL WINE STORAGE FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE!Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not wine-arkbe kept at home. Those special wines you have beenholding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINEto pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be).FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTHWine Ark provides:> CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE*> FULL INSURANCE> 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS> WINE CAN BE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR> SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT> NO HANDLING OUT FEES> PROFESSIONAL ADVICE AND FRIENDLY STAFFMembers of our Cellar Club also enjoy access to rare andcollectable wine, invitations to regular wine tastings anddiscounted storage rates. For more information please call1300 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.auFollow us on Twitter, Facebook, or youtube channel *for 12 bottles106 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingWolf Blass Gold Label Bird in Hand Paracombe Adelaide HillsAdelaide Hills Shiraz Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Shiraz Viognier 2009 HHHViognier 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Dense, meaty tarry aromas andDark purple wine with jubey, A savoury style with meaty, lush, rounded earthy/apricotfruit aromas edged with gamey aromas and flavours palate with grippy tannins. $21licorice notes. Palate is nice reminiscent of beef steak and Longview Yakka Adelaideblend of varietal fruit with mushrooms. $85 Hills Shiraz 2009 HHHoak background and alcohol Ashwood Estate Robust and savoury with nice,warmth. $24.99 Stable Hill Adelaide Hills spicy/toasty oak to balance the Shiraz 2010 HHH blackberry fruit. Good structureHahndorf Hill Winery Floral perfumed nose and light, and length. $27Adelaide Hills fresh, plum skin and blackberry Paracombe Adelaide HillsShiraz 2008 HHHH flavours. $18 Shiraz 2008 HHHLoads of quality, perfumed The Pawn Light and juicy with red andoak with plenty of pretty spicy, Jeu De Fin Adelaide Hills dark fruit characters and someblackcurrant varietal fruit Shiraz 2010 HHH beef stock-like elements. $21underneath. Good intensity of A long, nicely-structured wine K1 by Geoff Hardy Goldaromas and flavours. $30 with dark, berry fruits and Label Adelaide Hills robust use of oak. $34 Shiraz 2008 HHHWicks Estate Adelaide Anvers Razorback Road K1 by Geoff Hardy Silver Gamey aromas and savouryHills Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Label Adelaide Hills beef stock/mushroom palate andSmoky meaty bouquet and Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2009 HHH developing, nice complexity. $35lovely juicy intensity and Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Meaty nose with a peppery Paracombeconcentration of varietal fruit Deep, brooding wine with lift and a floral edge. Palate Somerville Adelaide Hillswith pretty black pepper excellent varietal complexity has firm tannic backbone Shiraz 2008 HHHelements. $20 and intensity on both the nose supporting the fruit. $20 A sound wine showing someGriffin Adelaide Hills and the palate. $22 bottle age and lovely oaky notesShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 among the spicy, floral fruit. $69Nose has nice oak to fruitratio with a rich palate full ofattractive, peppery fruit, alcoholwarmth and crisp acidity. $21 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 107

151 TASTED82 AWARDEDSWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDWith our abundant sunshine sweet whites and fortified should be Truffle Hill Reserve Equinox Waiparaa “gimme” for Australian winemakers. However, there is a split Series Pemberton Valley Late Harvestbetween those who set out to make these wines as a deliberate Cane Cut Riesling Riesling NVstyle compared to those who made them as an afterthought. This is 2011 (375ml) HHHH (375ml) HHHwhere a blind tasting sorts out the professional from the pretender. Great intensity, Nose of oak over tropical complexity, length and fruit. Good length andMOSCATO LATE HARVEST Greystone Basket balance to this lovely intensity of honeyed RIESLING Star Waipara Valley wine brimming over with fruit flavours. $2912 TASTED Riesling 2010 lovely marmalade-like,4 AWARDED 22 TASTED (375ml) HHHH botrytis characters. $24 Peregrine Charcoal 11 AWARDED Honeyed apricot-like Plantagenet Creek CentralThese are table wine bouquet and powerful Ringbark Mount Otago Late Harvestmoscatos rather than A confusing group without palate with intense Barker Riesling 2010 Riesling 2011 HHHsparkling wine ones. label understanding on apricot and pear flavours, (375ml) HHH1/2 Floral honeyed aromas“You have to get the what is in the bottle. complexity and length Honeyed botrytis and a mix of lightsugar, acid and CO² right However, the best had with good acidity. $39.95 lift to the nose and tropical fruit and limeto compensate for the complexity, balance, Pooley Coal River luscious, sugary palate flavours. $35 CD (NZ)lower alcohol levels in freshness and perfect Valley Tasmania developing a good levelthese wines,” said one balance of sugar and acid. Late Harvest of complexity. $25 Desert Heart Bluejudge. Too many in this The worst lacked some of Riesling 2011 Moon New Zealandgroup lacked freshness the those items or all of (500ml) HHHH Muddy Water Suger Late Harvest Rieslingor had high sulphur. them. Serve chilled! Light and delicate lime Daddy Waipara 2011 (375ml) HHH cordial-like aromas with Riesling 2008 Fresh and floral on theNardone Baker Pertaringa Autumn floral notes and a lively, (375ml) HHH1/2 nose with vibrant floral/Moscato Harvest McLaren well-balanced palate. Be Luscious maderised rose and tropical fruit2010 HHH1/2 Vale Riesling 2010 stunning served chilled pear and quince-like flavours. $24Light citrus lift to the (375ml) HHHH1/2 on a hot day. $35 aromas and a sweetnose with balanced A complex and beautifully harmony of fruit in the LATE HARVESTsweetness to the pear/ balanced wine with lime mouth with balanced OTHERpineapple flavours and and caramel-like aromas, acidity. $41.95lovely freshness. $15.95 and mouthfilling apricot Mad Fish Late 16 TASTED and marzipan flavours Harvest Riesling 5 AWARDEDAmberley Kiss & Tell with a rich, honeyed, 2010 HHHMoscato NV HHH botrytis finish. $18 Toasty characters Another mixed result withAn elegant style with developing on the nose. too many wines appearingtart, floral fragrances Swings & Nice off-dry palate. True as afterthoughts ratherand long, fresh, fruit Roundabouts late harvest style. $14 than designated styles.flavours. $9.99 Backyard Stories “A poor choice of vineyard Margaret River Cane suitability and practice forAmberley Cut Riesling NV the style,” said one judge.Kiss & Tell Moscato (375ml) HHHH The better wines hadRosa NV HHH Pretty rose and lime-like good fruit, freshness andFresh and fruity with bouquet with lovely, attention to detail.sweet quince-like floral, fruity flavoursaromas and flavours. and excellent sugar/ Centennial“Serve icy cold!” $9.99 acid balance with a long, Vineyards Finale honeyed finish. $29 Late AutumnGapsted Valley Chardonnay 2010Selection Moscato (375ml) HHHH2011 HHH Rich tropical lift to thePerfumed nose with apricot/quince-like noseorange rind edges and lovely seamlessand clean, spicy, fruit balance of sugar andflavours. $16 acid on the clean, lively, fruit palate. $25108 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

varietal tastingCentennial Blue Pyrenees Cellar Buller BeverfordVineyards Finale Door Series Botrytis Gold VictoriaLate Autumn Riesling 2010 Botrytis SemillonSauvignon Blanc (375ml) HHHH 2010 (375ml) HHH2011 (375ml) HHH Some marmalade-like Nose has delicateTropical bouquet with development on the lemon citrus expressionmarmalade notes and nose with a tropical with fine, elegantfresh, floral flavours. touch. Elegant flavours flavours and balancedGood acid/sugar with zesty acid balance acid/sugar. $19.95balance. $23 and clean, sweet finish. $15.95 Red Rock BotrytisGiesen The Brothers Semillon 2008Sticky Marlborough Brown Brothers (375ml) HHHLate Harvest Patricia Noble Pungent aromas; someSauvignon Blanc Riesling 2008 honeyed cumquat2011 (375ml) HHH (375ml) HHHH characters. Well-balanced,A powerful wine full of Complex dried apricot toasty palate. $15caramel sweet tropical and fig aromas. Sweetaromas and flavours, with creme caramel of a palate NOBLEa savoury touch. $29.99 with delicious lychee and BOTRYTIS lime flavours - not too OTHERDromana Estate sweet. $34.90 CD‘I’ range Late 10 TASTEDHarvest Arneis Kaesler Barossa 6 AWARDED2010 (375ml) HHH Botrytis RieslingVery sweet style with 2011 (375ml) HHH1/2 A mixed bag of botrytisinteresting rose petal Smells of lemon butter styles with the betterand lavender notes to and exhibits zesty, wines showing a degreethe citrussy fruit. $15 apricot flavour length of luscious intensity edged with powerful, along with good level ofMr Riggs Sticky citrus notes. $35 acid to balance.End McLaren ValeViognier 2010 NOBLE Hand Crafted by(375ml) HHH BOTRYTIS Geoff Hardy NobleHoneyed apricot SEMILLON Intent Botrytisbouquet and good fruit Verdelho 2010flavours on the fresh, 5 TASTED (375ml) HHHH1/2lively palate. $22 4 AWARDED Very perfumed bouquet - smells of violets withNOBLE Often regarded as the some honeydew melonBOTRYTIS classic botrytis varietal and citrus notes. QuiteRIESLING style, sweet semillon sweet palate - attractive, offers greater texture soft and elegant with11 TASTED and ageing ability. good level of acidity. $254 AWARDEDLow levels of botrytis Saddler’s Creek Chamberslusciousness here, Wines Supreme Rosewood Vineyardsagreed the judges. A few Botrytis Rutherglen Noblegood examples of lower Semillon 2008 Muscadelle 2011sugar/acid styles. (375ml) HHHH1/2 (375ml) HHHH A beautifully harmonious Interesting style withTaylors Winemaker’s wine with ageing, musky, malty elementsProject Clare Valley toasty, marmalade and on the buttery nose andBotrytis Riesling dried apricot-like fruit clean fruit flavours with2011 (375ml) HHHH characters. Palate still a seamless merging ofVibrant, fresh, tropical showing plenty the acid and sugar. $18fruit mingles with of vibrancy and Gibson Bridge Sweetcitrus and floral freshness with citrus 16 Marlboroughelements. Good acid undertones. $36 Botrytis Pinot Grisand sugar balance with Bimbadgen Estate 2011 (375ml) HHHlight, subtle, botrytis Myall Road Botrytis Very developed colour,characters. $22 Semillon 2007 aged honeyed/citrus rind (375ml) HHHH nose and intense, sweet Long, lingering and very citrus palate. $45 flavoursome. Smells like malty caramels and tastes of creamy almond paste layered with dried pears. Great acid length. $26 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 109

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDKonrad Noble Two OTHER VINTAGE 919 Limited Release APERA/SHERRYMarlborough Riesling FORTIFIED FORTIFIED 2009 Vintage HHHHSauvignon Blanc STYLES & Fine, elegant nose in 4 TASTED2009 (375ml) HHH BLENDS 12 TASTED the green fruit spectrum 3 AWARDEDLuscious, fruit cake-like 8 AWARDED with peppery notes.aromas and rich palate. 11 TASTED Solid examples of strong Richly textured palate Some lovely aperitifFruit still fresh and 4 AWARDED and sweet Aussie styles with good, red fruit finos here - serve chilledvibrant. $24.90 from different vintages. flavour persistence. and before dinner.Trentham Noble Some nice aged and Still youthful. $50Taminga 2008 developed wines with Reillys Dry Land Serafino Vintage Morris Mia Fino(375ml) HHH good toffee characters. Clare Valley McLaren Vale Sherry NV HHHH1/2Intense floral fragrances Fortified Shiraz 2008 Fortified Shiraz Fresh, nutty complexitywith more of the florals Pertaringa Full (375ml) HHHH1/2 2006 HHHH on the nose with touchesechoed on the slightly Fronti McLaren Vale Dark red, berry fruit nose Intense, dusty, licorice, of citrus and apples andoily palate. $16 Muscat NV HHHH with lifted aromatics and fruit aromas with some phenolic notes. Delightfully dark nose hints of licorice. Palate harmonious spirit lift. Beautifully balancedReschke Botrytis with raisiny, malty, starting to exhibit dark Nice tannins and fruit palate - good length andLate Picked molasses aromas. Rich, chocolate and licorice development on the density, and still showingSauvignon Blanc malty palate with lovely flavour intensity. palate. Some dark some fruit. $122010 (375ml) HHH chocolaty notes, some Great presence and chocolaty notes. $25Honey and ripe peach age and finishing dry. $35 potential. $25 Pertaringa McLaren 919 Palebouquet. Somewhat Morris Vintage Vale Vintage Dry Apera NV HHHHheavy, slightly sweet Gralyn 2004 HHHH1/2 Fortified 2010 An elegant wine withpalate. Good length. $26 Margaret River Full firm style with (500ml) HHH a vibrant, nutty, green Artizan NV HHHH good balance between Young, dark berry and apple bouquet exhibiting Nose of aged sweet maturity and youth, with black bouquet, and rich, hints of the sea. Similar toffee and malty nice level of spirit. Blue youthful fruit flavours characters are echoed chocolate. Rich and fruits showing hints of with good tannin on the palate. $28 luscious palate loaded cassis on the nose and structure. $18 with raisined fruit mouthfilling spicy, red Baileys of Morris Cellar Reserve intensity and light rancio berry flavours. $20 Glenrowan Founder Special Selection notes. $75 Series VP140 Grand Amontillado Fortified 2010 HHH NV (500ml) HHH Dandelion Vineyards Vibrant, jubey, fruit Buttery, honey aged Legacy of the aromas; touch chocolaty. aromas. Oak driven Barossa 30 Year Elegant palate, good palate with good sweet/ Old Pedro Ximenez fruit/tannin balance. $30 acid balance. Strong (375ml) HHHH Epsilon Fortified spirit. $35 Figs and spices on the Shiraz 2006 HHH nose with a caramel Rich, chocolaty, licorice TAWNY PORT edge. Luscious palate, age on the nose and UNDER $30 quite complex with a complex, spirity flavours good balance between with drying tannins. $30 15 TASTED the fruit, acid and Chambers Rosewood 7 AWARDED sweetness. $27.50 Vineyards Old Cellar Vintage Rutherglen Young, commercial Sittella Liqueur Fortified 2003 HHH wines here with caramel Verdelho 2011 Nose a hint of malty overtones for the price (375ml) HHH chocolate and cassis. point, with the better Nutty rancio nose with Nice balance of fruit and wines showing length touches of dried herbs spirit in the mouth. $20 and balance. and a complex, smoky, tarry palate. $45JUDGES Eric Semmler Hayden Donohue Nick Haselgrove Proprietor of 919 Wine Currently senior Winestate’s 2010 Australian Company. Formerly winemaker red wines Winemaker of the Year. winemaker for the Hardy for Lindemans Wines, at Winemaker/Director of Wine Company. Previously Karadoc (Victoria). Formerly Adelaide Winemakers. with Brown Brothers had the senior white wine Former chief winemaker at and Auldstone Cellars. and red wine responsibility. Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying Has spent eight years as Twelve years experience winemaker’ from 1993-95. fortified winemaker for in Sunraysia region. He is Judge at Hobart for 3 years Hardys. Associate judge at a graduate of Advanced and associate judge at Rutherglen, McLaren Vale Wine Assessment Course. Adelaide in 1996-97. and Riverland shows.110 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

65 William st Broken Hill NSW 2880

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDSerafino McLaren Buller Fine Old Morris Old Premium TOKAY/ All Saints EstateVale Old Tawny Port Tawny NV HHH Rare Tawny NV TOPAQUE Grand RutherglenNV HHHH Ageing, caramelised (500ml) HHHH Tokay NVIntense, raisined fruit fruit bouquet and rich Aged aromas - almost 8 TASTED (375ml) HHHHaromas layered with but simple palate with molasses-like with 6 AWARDED A drier style; some herbsnice, rancio oak and drying oak tannins. $25 raisined fruit and rancio A very strong class with and cold tea on the nose.spirity lift. Silky smooth oak. Spirity tawny palate the big name producers Shows great length,in the mouth with nice, Penfolds Club with the oak rancio coming to the fore with fullness and complexitynutty, aged notes. $15 Tawny NV HHH tending to dominate. $48 their fine examples of to the balanced, oaky919 Classic Tawny Developed malty, Saltram aged stock. palate. $70NV HHH1/2 chocolaty aromas and Mr Pickwick’s Buller Fine OldSpirity lift to the aged, soft, ageing, nutty, Tawny NV HHHH Morris Old Premium Tokay NV HHH1/2malty nose and palate caramelised red fruit Lifted oak rancio Rare Liqueur Tokay Youthful, simple wineshowing good depth, flavours. $13.99 fragrances mix with NV (500ml) HHHHH that smells and tasteslength and balance molasses, caramel and “Heaven in a glass!” of cold tea and toffee.of luscious tawny TAWNY PORT nuts. Rich and complex said one judge. Rich, “Good alternative style,”flavours. $25 $30+ in the mouth. Nice aged intense and complex suggested one judge. $25Penfolds rancio characters. $71.99 nose - smells of treacle Morris CellarBluestone Grand 7 TASTED Wise Old Vine and coffee, and the Reserve GrandTawny NV HHH1/2 6 AWARDED Tawny Port NV palate offers a mouthful Liqueur Tokay NVElegant, ageing red fruits (375ml) HHH1/2 of complex flavours. $68 (500ml) HHHhere with elegant wood Consistent quality A long, complex style A concentration ofinfluence and attractive group with winemaking with fine, elegant, aged treacle aromatics withrancio characters. Nice expertise obvious; good fruit mingling with some rancio notes. Intensealcohol warmth. $24.99 spirit handling, ageing old oak and lovely, spicy, flavours on a rich,Morris Classic Tawny and blending. citrus rind. $40 powerful palate. $35NV (500ml) HHH Penfolds ChambersRich Christmas cake Morris Cellar Reserve Grandfather Rare Rosewood Vineyardsaromas and a complexity Grand Tawny NV Tawny NV HHH1/2 Rutherglenof flavours with nutty, (500ml) HHHH1/2 Complex spicy style Muscadelle NV HHHcitrus elements. $20 Huge, rich, sweet exhibiting great aged Hot, spirity nose withHardy’s Whiskers wine with lovely characters. Hints of cold tea bouquet andBlake Classic aged characters and herbs on the fruit cake long, simple, butterscotchTawny HHH slight rancio notes. A nose and a mouthful of flavours. Clean finish. $16A luscious tawny with complexity of fruit cake flavour. $99.99 Baileys ofseamless integration of and molasses flavours Ballast Stone Old Glenrowan Founderfig, malt, light rancio, dried with a rancio edge and Tawny NV HHH Series Classicfruit and chocolate. $16.99 nice acid backbone. $35 Tarry, dark fruit cake Topaque 30 HHH nose with similar Pungent elements to the characters on the palate. malty, caramel aromas. Young yet complex. $30 Sweet, simple and fresh on the palate. $30 aulett Wines Estbalished 1983. Proudly family owned and operated.Pauletts reputation for producing award winning wines of finesse, elegance and intensity is justly earned and their skill and care can be seen consistently from vintage to vintage. Neilhas a craftsman’s sensibilities coupled with over 30 years experience making wine - and it all shows, recently taking out the title for ‘Best Riesling in the World’ at the 11th CanberraInternational Riesling Challenge.The smooth intense reds have also attracted many acollades including, achiev high scores from James Halliday , a highly reguarded wine authority.Thecurrent release wines have roundness and generosity and it’s these subtleties that have kept Pauletts at the forefront of Australian wine.FOR OTHER STOCKISTS WORLDWIDE & PRODCUT INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE. WWW.PAULETTWINES.COM.AUChina Importers New Zealand South Australia & NT QLD New South Wales , ACT &Wollemi Fine Wines (Far East) Ltd Sanz Global Ltd Empire Liquor Lock Stock & Barrel VictoriaP (852) 9245 0781 Martin Kitzen P (08)8371 0088 (Liquor Net) Vintners P/LE [email protected] (NZ) 9636 3390 E [email protected] P (07)3010 7960 P (03) 9872 5775W www.wollemiwines.com E: [email protected] E [email protected] E [email protected] W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

varietal tastingMUSCAT Morris Cellar Saddler’s Creek All Saints Grand 919 Classic Reserve Grand Wines Exclusive Rutherglen Muscat Muscat NV HHH18 TASTED Liqueur Muscat NV Muscat 2011 NV (375ml) HHH1/2 Luscious, grapey,14 AWARDED (500ml) HHHH1/2 (375ml) HHHH Raisined caramelized raisined aromas and long,Another very strong class A powerful muscat A fruit-driven style with fruit showing here with well-structured, sweet,with the young wines that’s a treasure trove floral rose-like notes Marmite and molasses- dried fruit palate. $38overpowered by the of flavour and age. on the nose and fresh, like complexity and a St Leonard’spowerful, older and more Gorgeous treacle and spicy, fruit cake flavours nice nutty element. $70 Classic Rutherglenexpensive liqueur wines. raisined fragrances, with a nicely balanced, Morris Classic Muscat HHH and gorgeous flavour clean finish. $36 Liqueur Muscat NV Earthy raisined/floralMorris Old Premium intensity and complexity All Saints Estate (500ml) HHH1/2 nose with a spirityRare Liqueur Muscat on the luscious viscous Rutherglen Muscat Nose verging on lift and drier complexNV (500ml) HHHHH palate. $35 NV (375ml) HHH1/2 molasses with a long, mocha/tannic palate. $35An excellent muscat with Rutherglen Estates Lifted spirit and grapey well-balanced palate Morris Blackan amazing concentration Muscat NV HHHH fruit on the nose. Sweet showing good VA lift, Label Liqueurof treacley, muscat A sweet, youthful, palate has depth and acid and warming, Muscat NV HHHraisined aromas with a big, lighter style. Fresh, structure with spicy, alcohol finish. $20 Ageing, raisined bouquetoaky lift. Long lingering, grapey fruit nose and raisined, fruit flavours. $22 Baileys of with floral touches.coffee/mocha raisined fresh, fruity palate that Glenrowan Founder Good fruit length on theflavours with sweetness has some attractive rich Series Classic sweet palate. $14that crystallizes on the notes. Well-balanced Muscat NV HHH1/2 Heathcote Wineryteeth! $68 wine. $19.95 Smells like a rum and Rutherglen All Saints Estate Rare raisin chocolate bar Grand Muscat Rutherglen Muscat with similar characters NV (500ml) HHH NV (375ml) HHHH echoed on the rich, Grapey-like fruit with Very sweet, rich, full sweet palate with its tight and spicy tannic and luscious style with a herbal notes. $30 length, and mature powerful hit of raisined/ Michael Unwin characters adding floral fruit flavours and Wines Tattooed complexity. $32 finishing long, balanced Lady 10-15 Years and clean. $115 Old Beaufort Muscat (375ml) HHH1/2 Earthy, tarry notes to the raisined nose and long, lingering, well-balanced, fruit cake-like richness in the mouth. $26 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 113

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNELSON & WAIRARAPA EXPANSION AGENDA WINE WORLD IN WELLINGTON MURDOCH JAMES is a familiar name with Australian wine buyers – its wines IT MAY pay to book early for Pinot Noir are available through Vintage Cellars NZ 2013, which will see the Wellington and other retailers, but it is also one waterfront alive with New Zealand’s best of the Martinborough region’s most pinots and the world’s leading wine popular cellar doors. Expansion is on the media, wine lovers and traders, makers agenda, says owner Roger Fraser, with and viticulturists, reports Judy Finn, from the building of a new winery underway Nelson’s Neudorf Vineyards. and the purchase of new vineyards in The 2013 event will be the fourth Pinot Noir the Martinborough region. “The focus NZ event. The festival started in 2003 when remains premium wines,” says Fraser, Kiwi pinot producers decided to invite theGOLD CLASS who encourages visitors to taste in the wine world to Wellington. “We believe New relaxed cellar door atmosphere. The on- Zealand is the “go to” destination for NewWHAREKAUHAU COUNTRY Estate, site Bloom restaurant welcomes visitors World pinot and this time we are drillinga member of Navigate Oceania, a for lunch and a glass of wine, or just a down into regionality. We will celebrate thecollection of inspired destinations and snack and an espresso. Bloom is open different regions and styles,” says Pinotunique experiences from New Zealand year-round Wednesdays to Mondays Noir 2013 chair Alastair Maling MW. Eachand the South Pacific, was named on the from 11.30am-3.30pm – and dinners Pinot region – Wairarapa/Martinborough,Conde Nast Traveller United Kingdom are served on Friday nights. It does pay Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury/WaiparaGold List 2012 for its ambience and to call ahead, however, as the kitchen and Central Otago – will be given adesign. The Conde Nast Traveller Gold closes for a few weeks over winter. chance to educate, beguile, convince andList is considered the ultimate guide The terrace is a lovely spot to dine in entertain. Each day delegates will join ato the world’s finest establishments, summer on dishes like: squid ink risotto different region so everyone has a chancerecognising the top echelon of hotels with calamari and grilled prawns, grilled to talk to the winemakers, ask the awkwardand resorts. The list is compiled from garlic chicken with a Greek style salad questions without feeling overwhelmed32,633 reader responses, and then of cucumber, kalamata olives, tomato and taste the wines of that region. Butconfirmed by Conde Nast Traveller and feta cheese or maybe steamed and organisers are determined that Pinot Noirexperts, who highlight the top hotels grilled pork belly served on an Asian- NZ 2013 will be relaxed and intimate. “Thisfrom around the world based on the style salad with roasted pineapple, event is about debate,” Maling says. “Thefacilities, activities authentic to the peanuts and a palm sugar dressing. wine world has a few sacred cows and weregion, food, ambience/design and Murdoch James Estate, 284 Dry River plan to dissect them - expose the mythsservice. Styled in a bid to recapture Rd, Martinborough; phone +64 6 306 and confirm the truths. Previous eventsthe gracious lifestyle of a bygone era, 9165 www.murdochjames.co.nz. have been more formal and we are nowWharekauhau Country Estate is a luxurylodge situated on a 2000ha workingfarm on the south-east coast of theNorth Island. Framed by the RimutakaRanges to the west and Palliser Bayto the east, the lodge is surroundedby native forests, beaches, severalrivers and lakes. Each of the luxurycottages dotted throughout the groundsenjoys ocean views – and the manyvineyards of the Wairarapa are justminutes away. To contact WharekauhauCountry Estate; phone +64 6 307 7581,www.wharekauhau.co.nz.114 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

travelbriefscomfortable pulling on the gumboots Clearwater Resort Christchurch and “Steps towards achieving certificationand having a chat” Keynote speakers Peppers Bluewater Resort Lake Tekapo in around sustainability had been initiated priorinclude the British Burgundy expert Jasper the South Island to offer a boutique getaway to the acquisition and we are determinedMorris MW, Matt Kramer from the United for wine lovers in picturesque Wairarapa. to keep on track towards this aim,” saysStates and French viticulturist Emmanuel Each of the cottages on the property has its Harris. “The estate is set within a beautifulBourguignon. “Right now each of the pinot own sitting area with fireplace and private location where the environment is valuedregions is planning their presentations – no deck. Vintage notes from local wineries and considered paramount for our guests.”doubt with a hint of competitive edge,” assist guests to choose the right wineries to Set in park-like gardens with picturesqueMaling says. “The culinary program is once visit, and facilities include full kitchens, king views and a private willow-fringed lake, theagain being co-ordinated by Ruth Pretty beds and large spa baths. Peppers regional country estate overlooks the Tararua ranges.Catering and will focus on the best, the general manager for New Zealand, Ken A host of wineries, golfing, horse trekking,freshest and the wildest of Kiwi foods to Harris, says he is delighted to be launching boating, quad biking, coastal walks, fishing and pampering are all within easy reach of the premium estate.tease our guest’s palates. While this event such a high-calibre property. “Peppers VINTAGE LUXURYis about pinot noir we see it as four days Parehua Country Estate perfectly embodiesof Kiwi excellence and we want our guests the ideals of Peppers which is known for IF YOU want to be within striking distanceto leave excited to return.” Go to www. superior accommodation and cuisine in of Wellington’s many attractions, but awaypinotnoir2013.co.nz. stunning, unique locations,” he says the from city hustle and bustle, Ohtel might estate has a Green Globe registration – the prove a happy compromise. Located inPEPPERS ADDS SPICE worldwide benchmarking and certification the funky Oriental Bay neighbourhood, system for the travel and tourism industry. opposite the marina, Ohtel has aPAREHUA COUNTRY Estate, one of the contemporary facade with a 1950s andleading resorts in the Martinborough wine ‘60s heartbeat. Owner Alan Blundell hasregion, is now part of the luxury Peppers decked out the reception/lobby area and 10group. Located a short walk from rustic spacious rooms with handpicked furnitureMartinborough Village, and one hour’s and accessories from the middle of lastdrive from Wellington, Peppers Parehua century. Think Kiwi and Australian designCountry Estate features a range of luxurious classics teamed with local textiles andaccommodation options, including 30 suites ceramics. Despite the vintage decor, thereand villas or garden and lakeside cottages. are generous beds and modern comfortsThe resort is the latest addition to Mantra to ensure 21st-century standards – andHotel Group’s collection of Peppers hotels, Ohtel is a genuine boutique property, withresorts and retreats. It joins Peppers on just 10 rooms. Bathrooms are the focalthe Point Rotorua in the North Island and point of each room. Large expanses ofPeppers Beacon Queenstown, Peppers glass reveal luxurious two-person baths, oversized showers and quality toiletries. Regular media options are enhanced by digital audio and pod-casts in each room, all via LCD flat screens and there is the choice of studio, deluxe rooms or suites. Ohtel, arguably Wellington’s hippest hotel, is part of the HIP Hotels collective and is at 66 Oriental Parade, Wellington; phone +64 4 803 0600, www.ohtel.com. Opposite: Wharekauhau Country Estate kitchen and lounge. Above: Wharekauhau Country Estate Palliser Room. Below: Peppers Parehua Country Estate lounge. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 115

78 TASTED61 AWARDEDNELSON & WAIRARAPAA strong lineup of vibrant, cool-climate whites and Renato Nelson Sauvignon Brightwaterreds. Highlights included several great value pinot noirs Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 Vineyards Nelsonfrom the 2010 vintage, especially from Martinborough; Weighty, full-flavoured wine Pinot Gris 2011 HHHHa quartet of fleshy, rich pinot gris from Nelson; and with ripe, tropical fruit characters Instantly appealing blendinvitingly scented, appetisingly crisp rieslings from both enlivened by fresh, crisp acidity. of grapes grown inland atsides of Cook Strait. Dry style with very good body, Hope and on the coast at texture and depth. $19 Kina. Fleshy, with rich, ripePrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. flavours and a distinct splash ofWines available in export markets are shown as Waimea Nelson Sauvignon sweetness (18g/litre of residual(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 sugar). Very harmonious, finely Fresh and lively, with good textured and smooth. $20SPARKLING Pencarrow Martinborough weight and very satisfying depth Kina Cliffs Nelson Sauvignon Blanc of ripe melon, nectarine and lime Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH1 TASTED 2011 HHHH flavours. $20 (A, UK, US) Estate-grown, single-vineyard1 AWARDED From Palliser Estate, this is a wine, hand-picked on the coast fleshy, generous wine with Anchorage Nelson and partly (15 per cent) barrelPalliser Estate Methode a hint of “sweaty armpit” Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH fermented. Floral and full-Traditionnelle 2007 HHH1/2 on the nose and strong, ripe Lightish style, with crisp melon/ bodied, in a clearly varietal styleStylish Martinborough bubbly, fruit flavours of passionfruit lime flavours, a minerally streak with an array of lychee, pear,blended from pinot noir and and nectarine. Enjoyed by all and good length. $18 slight apple and spice flavours.chardonnay. Citrusy, biscuity judges. $20.65 (A, UK) Shows excellent ripeness,aromas, with strong, crisp, Brightwater Vineyards Aotea Nelson Sauvignon richness and length. $24.90lemony, yeasty flavours, Lord Rutherford Blanc 2011 HHH Woollastonshowing good vigour and Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Punchy, with tropical fruit and Mahana Nelsoncomplexity. $48.50 (A) 2011 HHH1/2 herbaceous flavours, showing Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH From vines up to 18-years-old, good ripeness and freshness. Fleshy, full-bodied, dry wineSAUVIGNON this is a mouthfilling, finely Two judges noted a hint of from very low-cropped (5BLANC balanced wine with generous, sweetness on the finish. (From tonne/ha) vines, hand-picked ripe, tropical fruit flavours. Seifried Estate.) $25 (UK) and fermented in old oak14 TASTED Fresh and weighty, with good puncheons. Slightly chardonnay-10 AWARDED length. $25 (A, UK, US) Spinyback Nelson like, with pear and spice notes Kina Cliffs Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH in a complex style, showingA very good, although not Sauvignon Blanc From Waimea Estates, this is good concentration. $26outstanding class, with most 2011 HHH1/2 a lively, fresh, juicy wine withof the wines showing clear-cut From a single, coastal site, this appetisingly crisp flavours of Murdoch James Blue Rockvarietal characters and a cool- is a crisp, dry style with slightly gooseberry and lime, showing Martinborough Pinot Grisclimate freshness and vivacity. “sweaty” aromas and fresh, good but not great depth. 2010 HHH1/2 ripe flavours of passionfruit, Priced right. $16 (A,UK) Still very fresh, with apple,Brightwater Vineyards nectarine and lime, showing very spicy flavours, maturingNelson Sauvignon Blanc good vigour and depth. $19.90 PINOT GRIS gracefully. Finely balanced,2011 HHHH Palliser Estate slightly minerally wine thatAromatic and full-flavoured, Martinborough Sauvignon 14 TASTED lingers well. $25with ripe, tropical fruit Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 11 AWARDED Anchorage Nelson Pinotcharacters of passionfruit and Fresh and vibrantly fruity, with Gris 2011 HHHlime, very fresh, crisp and a hint of residual sugar (noted The heavy-yielding, warm but Medium-bodied, off-dry winelively. $20 (A, UK, US) by two judges) combining with wet growing season in Nelson (11.6g/litre of residual sugar) with ripe, tropical fruit flavours to suited early-ripening varieties fresh, juicy and spicy flavours in a give an easy-drinking style with such as pinot gris, which solid, commercial style. $18 very good depth and harmony. performed strongly in the $26.50 (A, UK, US) tasting, especially the wines from cool coastal sites. Renato Nelson Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH Perfumed, weighty, off-dry style (8g/litre of residual sugar), showing excellent vigour and depth of stonefruit flavours, fresh, ripe and strong. Estate- grown and hand-picked at 24 brix at Kina. $22116 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

Brightwater Vineyards Palliser Estate regional tastingLord Rutherford Nelson Martinborough RieslingPinot Gris 2011 HHH 2011 HHHH Waimea Estates has had 8 winesFloral, distinctly medium style Fleshy, medium-dry style, finely recommended in the Top 40 Best value(26g/litre of residual sugar), with balanced, with strong lemon/ Buys from the nearly 1000 wines fromripe, faintly honeyed flavours. lime flavours and a powerful across Australia and New Zealand tastedVery forward in its appeal. $25 finish. Delicious drinking now for the May/June issue of Winestate!Coney Piccolo onwards. $22.85 (UK)Martinborough Anchorage Nelson Waimea Estates is keen to buildPinot Gris 2011 HHH Riesling 2011 HHH1/2 distribution throughout Australia.Creamy-textured and juicy, This low-priced wine offers fine If you are interested in high quality,with fresh, pear-like aromas value. Light-bodied, floral, crisp great value for money wines with aand flavours, a distinct splash and slightly sweet, it has lemon/of sweetness and balanced lime flavours, showing very proven track record.acidity. $19.60 (A) good vivacity and depth. $15 Please feel free to contact:Spinyback Nelson Pinot Brightwater Vineyards Martin CarringtonGris 2009 HHH Nelson Riesling 2011 HHH e-mail ~ [email protected] Waimea Estates, this is a Easy-drinking, medium-dryweighty wine with some dried style (12g/litre of residual sugar) phone +64 21 852 612fruit, slightly honeyed flavours with lemon/lime flavours, veryand a touch of bottle-aged fresh,vibrant and crisp. Onecomplexity. Ready. $16 (A, UK) judge rated it highly for its “poise, delicacy and purity“. $25 (UK)Tohu NelsonPinot Gris 2011 HHH Richmond Plains NelsonFull-bodied style with pear, Riesling 2011 HHHapple and spice flavours, crisp Floral and flavoursome, withand minerally. Some creamy crisp lemon/lime characters, anotes, with a clean, fresh minerally streak and a slightlyfinish. $21.95 (A, UK, US) sweet finish. Certified by Bio- Gro. $19 (A)Waimea NelsonPinot Gris 2010 HHH Te Mania NelsonFloral and gently sweet, with Riesling 2011 HHHpeachy, slightly honeyed flavours, Crisp, lively and slightlyshowing some development. sweet, with citrusy, apple,Ready. $23 (A, UK, US) spicy flavours and an off-dry, lingering finish. $19.99 (A, US)RIESLING Woollaston Nelson8 TASTED Riesling 2010 HHH8 AWARDED Fleshy and rounded, with juicy, gently sweet flavours, showingA strong class of lively, cool- good harmony. “Lacks a littleclimate wines, with the two structure and acidity,” notedregions, Nelson and Wairarapa, one judge, but it’s drinking wellsharing the honours. now. $19Waimea Classic Nelson OTHERRiesling 2009 HHHH1/2 AROMATICNow in full stride, this medium- WHITESdry wine (14g/litre of residualsugar) possesses strong 5 TASTEDpersonality. It has attractive, 3 AWARDEDtoasty, bottle-aged aromasand fresh, lively, intensely Waimea Nelsonvarietal lemon/lime flavours, Gewurztraminershowing excellent balance and 2011 HHHH1/2drinkability. $20 (A, US) Exotically perfumed, in a weighty, intensely varietal styleConey The Ritz with rich, citrusy, spicy flavoursMartinborough Riesling and a hint of apricot. Youthful,2011 HHHH finely balanced, medium-Light, racy, medium style with dry style, showing excellentlow alcohol. Strong citrus and concentration. $23 (UK)passionfruit flavours, withfresh, crisp acidity and a floralbouquet. $19.60 (A) May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 117

NELSON & WAIRARAPATohu Single Vineyard Renato Nelson Murdoch James Pencarrow MartinboroughNelson Gewurztraminer Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Rhiannon Pinot Meunier Pinot Noir 2010 HHHHH2011 HHH1/2 Fleshy, tropical fruit-flavoured Rosé 2011 HHH From Palliser Estate, this is onePerfumed, well-spiced wine with fresh acidity, Very pale pink, this of New Zealand’s best valuebouquet, leading into a complexity from fermentation Martinborough wine is dryish pinot noirs. Ripely perfumed, itmouthfilling, citrusy, spicy and eight months’ ageing in and firm, with gentle strawberry, is deeply coloured, with strongwine. Made in a dryish style French oak barriques, and very peach and spice flavours. $30 cherry and plum flavours,with a fractionally hard finish good ripeness and length. $24 still very vibrant and youthful,(noted by two judges), but Waimea Nelson PINOT NOIR and oak and “forest floor”very good vibrancy and flavour Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 characters adding complexity.depth. $21.95 Ripely scented, with 21 TASTED Instantly appealing wine with substantial body (14.5 per cent 16 AWARDED some potential. $28.85 (A, UK)Richmond Plains Nelson alcohol) and fresh, citrusy, Palliser EstateBlanc de Noir 2011 HHH toasty, nutty flavours. Strongly Pinot noir is the most Martinborough Pinot NoirPale pink wine, made from oaked, but good texture and extensively planted variety in 2009 HHHH1/2organically certified pinot complexity. $25 (A, US) Wairarapa and second only to Lovely, rich red, deeplynoir. Strawberry, peach and Anchorage Reserve Nelson sauvignon blanc in Nelson, so coloured, with fresh plum,spice aromas and flavours, in Chardonnay 2010 HHH it’s no surprise that this was a black berry and dried herba fresh, very easy-drinking, Slightly buttery nose, with lots strong class. The judges found flavours, well-integrated oak,slightly sweet style with good of fresh, crisp, citrusy flavour. several outstanding buys from and good, earthy, meaty, spicyimmediacy. $19.99 (A, UK, US) Full-bodied,toasty and nutty, the cool, late-ripening 2010 complexity. $54 (A, UK, US) with moderate concentration vintage, especially from theCHARDONNAY and complexity. $19.50 Martinborough district. Pencarrow Martinborough7 TASTED Chardonnay 2011 HHH Kiritea Martinborough6 AWARDED Vibrant, fruit-driven style with Pinot Noir 2010 HHHHH citrusy aromas and flavours, From Te Hera Estate, thisA small, but strong class, crisp acidity and toasty, buttery bargain-priced red shot straightdemonstrating the ability of the notes adding a touch of to a five-star rating on all scoreregions’ chardonnays to mature complexity. An enjoyable, drink- sheets. Poised and youthful, itwell for several years. young style. $20.65 (A, UK) is weighty, finely textured and deeply coloured, with vibrant,Brightwater Vineyards ROSÉ concentrated flavours of cherries,Lord Rutherford herbs and spices, showing goodBarrique Nelson 4 TASTED complexity. “Lovely density”,Chardonnay 2009 HHHH 3 AWARDED wrote one panelist. $23Elegant wine, maturing verygracefully. Still fresh and Coney Ramblin Te Hera Reservevibrant, with citrusy fruit Rosé 2011 HHH1/2 Martinborough Pinot Noirflavours, good weight, a Light orange/pink. Fleshy, 2010 HHHHHminerally streak and excellent dryish style from Martinborough Fragrant, fleshy and full-coloured,length. $30 with strawberry, peach and with concentrated, vibrant spice flavours, showing good cherry, plum and oak flavours,Palliser Estate depth. $19.60 (A) showing excellent complexity.Martinborough Te Mania Nelson Pinot Layered and rich, with goodChardonnay 2009 HHHH Noir Rosé 2011 HHH tannin support and harmony. $40Fleshy and ripely scented, Bright pink/light red colour. Floral,with grapefruit-like flavours fresh, berryish and smooth, withand finely integrated, nutty plenty of flavour and an easy-oak. Rich, creamy wine with a drinking charm. $19.99 (A, US)lasting finish. $39 (UK)JUDGES Michael Cooper Simon Nunns Corey Hall Winestate’s New Zealand editor Chief winemaker at Co-owner of the is author of the internationally Coopers Creek, Simon Gem and Harwood acclaimed Wine Atlas of New is a senior judge at Hall brands, Corey Zealand and the annual Michael New Zealand national was previously Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide to New wine competitions. senior winemaker Zealand Wines. In the 2004 for Matua Valley. New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to wine writing.118 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingBrightwater Spinyback NelsonVineyards Nelson Pinot Noir 2009 HHHPinot Noir 2010 HHHH Full-flavoured wine fromGrown at Hope, French oak- Waimea Estates, with red berry,aged, and bottled unfined and spice and dried herb flavoursunfiltered, this is a top buy. and a slightly chewy finish.Full-coloured and fragrant, with Good value at $19. (A, UK)strong plum, cherry and spice Tohu Young Vine Nelsonflavours, it’s a finely balanced, Pinot Noir 2010 HHHsupple wine that was enjoyed Fresh and vibrantly fruity, withby all judges. $25 (UK) plum, cherry and slight herbDusty Road flavours, gently seasoned withMartinborough Pinot Noir oak. Good, easy drinking. $21.952010 HHHH Tussock Nelson PinotBargain-priced red from Noir 2009 HHHAlexander Vineyard. Brightly Restrained wine fromcoloured and full-bodied, Woollaston Estate with decentwith very satisfying depth of depth of cherry, spice and driedripe, plummy, spicy flavours, herb flavours, showing a touchgood, savoury complexity and of “forest floor” complexity. $24excellent harmony. $24Alexandra Martinborough Woollaston Nelson Pinot © Tourism New Zealand.Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Noir 2010 HHHRuby hued, mouthfilling, single- Berryish, middleweight stylevineyard red with very good with some herbal notes, somedepth of cherry/plum flavours oak showing and moderateand ripe, fairly firm tannins. complexity. $35Two judges noted a strong oakinfluence. $35 OTHER REDSTe Mania Reserve NelsonPinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 3 TASTEDSavoury and spicy, with some 2 AWARDEDdried herb notes. Complex, firmstyle with very good flavour Alexander Martinboroughdepth. Verging on four stars. Merlot 2009 HHH1/2$35.99 (A, UK, US) Deeply coloured red, matured inTe Mania Reserve Nelson American oak casks. Fresh andPinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2 lively, with plum, spice and nutSavoury and finely balanced, flavours, showing good richness.with a perfumed bouquet Enjoyed by all judges. $27and plummy, nutty flavours, Anchorage Reserveshowing considerable Nelson Syrah 2010 HHHcomplexity. $35.99 (A, UK, US) Boldly coloured red, grown atBrightwater Vineyards Tasman and French oak-matured.Lord Rutherford Nelson Fruit-driven style with a pepperyPinot Noir 2009 HHH bouquet and blackcurrant, plum,Maturing solidly, with herb and spice flavours woven“tomato leaf” characters with fresh acidity. $22.50noted by two judges, gooddepth and some savoury, SWEET WINESspicy complexity. $40 (A)Kina Cliffs Nelson 1 TASTEDPinot Noir 2010 HHH 1 AWARDEDSavoury, spicy, nutty redwith firm, berryish flavours, Te Mania Nelson Koha Iceshowing decent harmony and Wine 2011 (375ml) HHHdepth. $29.90 Lively, freeze-concentratedKina Cliffs Reserve Nelson riesling with fresh, sweet,Pinot Noir 2010 HHH apple, slightly spicy aromas andFull-bodied style with flavours. $21.99moderate, ripe fruit charactersand good depth of cherry, herband oak flavours, braced byfirm tannins. $45 © Tourism New Zealand. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 119

MICHAEL COOPERA strong lineup of wines, highlighted by classy, aromatic Gibson Bridge Trinity Hill Gimblettwhite wines from 2011 and superb Martinborough, Reserve Marlborough Gravels Hawke’s Bay NobleWaipara and Central Otago pinot noirs from the cool, Pinot Gris 2011 Viognier 2010 (375ml)low-cropping 2010 vintage. Very fragrant, fleshy and finely Fleshy, rich, dessert wine, balanced, this is a single- fermented in tanks and FrenchPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. vineyard wine, hand-harvested oak barrels. Bright yellow/Wines available in export markets are shown as in the Wairau Valley and lees- green, with mouthfilling body(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). aged in tanks. Scented and and sweet, complex, stonefruit ripe, with notably concentrated flavours, showing lovely ripeness, Glasnevin Limited Release stonefruit and spice flavours, it concentration and harmony. Waipara Valley has a fine thread of acidity and Gorgeous now. $35 (UK)Auburn Bendigo Central Pinot Noir 2009 a dryish, long finish. $29 Trinity HillOtago Riesling 2011 An ”iron fist in a velvet glove”, Martinborough Vineyard Hawke’s Bay (Black Label)The most ”complete” of this is a wine of real beauty. Pinot Noir 2010 Chardonnay 2010Auburn’s quartet of rieslings From grapes harvested very A wine of real presence. Notably A very stylish, ”complete” wine,from 2011. Light, intense, ripe (over 25 brix), and matured rich and savoury, beautifully barrel-fermented and lees-agedpoised and racy, it’s a medium- for 18 months in French oak fragrant and sweet-fruited, it for 10 months. Full-bodied, withsweet style (63 g/litre of barriques (50% new), it has has impressive depth of cherry, vibrant, grapefruit-like flavoursresidual sugar) with appetising deep, youthful colour, substantial plum, spice and nut flavours, in to the fore, and subtle oakacidity and lovely delicacy and body (14.5% alc/vol), gentle a multi-faceted style with good and butterscotch notes addingdepth of citrusy, slightly spicy tannins, and concentrated, tannin backbone. It’s already richness and complexity. Finelyflavours. $30 sweet-fruit flavours of cherries delicious, but should flourish structured wine with a fresh, and plums. All silky elegance, it’s with cellaring. $74 (A, UK) minerally thread and lovely depth a very rich, harmonious wine, Muddy Water Riesling 2011 and harmony. $35 (UK) potentially long-lived. $45 A distinctly medium style, this instantly appealing wine was ½ grown at Waipara, fermented with indigenous yeasts and Auburn Bannockburn lees-aged for three months. Central Otago The bouquet is fresh, minerally Riesling 2011 and complex; the palate shows Already quite open and lovely fruit richness, with expressive, this is a medium- intense, vibrant grapefruit and sweet style (47 g/litre of residual spice flavours, fine sugar/acid sugar) with a moderate level of balance and a faintly honeyed, alcohol (10.5%) and lovely poise long finish. $27.95 and freshness. Citrusy, appley flavours, with a hint of sherbet, a minerally streak and excellent intensity. $30Craggy Range Grasshopper Rock Central Spy Valley Envoy Auburn Lowburn CentralTe Muna Road Vineyard Otago Pinot Noir 2010 Marlborough Otago Riesling 2011Pinot Noir 2010 A wonderful buy. Grown at Pinot Noir 2010 From 18-year-old vines, this isThis sturdy, savoury, rich and Alexandra and barrel-aged Enticingly fragrant, very a late harvest style from grapescomplex Martinborough red was for nine months (French, generous and sweet-fruited that were 25 per cent botrytis-hand-picked, fermented with 32% new), it is a beautifully red, estate-grown in the lower affected. A rich, sweetish wineindigenous yeasts and French perfumed and deeply coloured Waihopai Valley, barrel-aged (48 g/litre of residual sugar),oak-aged for over a year. Deeply red, rich and supple. Sweet- for 18 months (French, 28% it has good acid spine andcoloured, with a fragrant, smoky, fruited, with concentrated new) and bottled unfined and concentrated, peachy, citrusy,spicy bouquet, it is rich, finely plum/spice flavours, silky unfiltered. Silky-textured and limey flavours, slightly honeyedtextured and supple, with cherry, tannins and great harmony, savoury, with beautifully ripe and long. $30plum and spice flavours, ripe and it’s a drink now or cellaring plum, cherry and spice flavours,densely packed. Open 2013+. proposition. $30 (A, UK) rich and harmonious. A top$42.95 (A, UK, US) vintage. $55.95 (A, UK, US)120 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

recent releasesClearview Vineyard Craggy Range STONYRIDGESelection Chardonnay 2011 Te Kahu 2010 LAROSEEstate-grown at Te Awanga, A top buy. Estate-grown in theon the Hawke’s Bay coast, Gimblett Gravels, this Hawke’s ONE OF THE FINESTthis is a classy wine, fragrant Bay red is merlot-based (80%), CABERNETS INand full-bodied. Vibrantly fruity, and was matured for over a THE WORLDit has generous stonefruit year in French oak barriquesflavours, mealy and nutty (28% new). Approachable now, 1st equal out of 387 wines in Winestate’snotes adding complexity, and it’s a sturdy, deeply coloured comprehensive Cabernet tastinga dry, tightly structured finish. wine with concentratedBest drinking 2013+. $39 blackcurrant, plum and spice Stonyridge Larose 2006 flavours, showing excellent ripeness and complexity. Best Chateau Latour 2006 drinking 2013+. $26.95 (A, UK) Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2006 Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2007 Deutz Marlborough Prestige Cuvee 2008 Stonyridge is releasing 20 new memberships Rich, complex style, blended for the exclusive Larose VIP Club and the from chardonnay (65%) and opportunity to purchase Larose ‘en Primeur’ pinot noir (35%). Disgorged Applications can be obtained by contacting after three years on its yeast - Ousffeart [email protected] - lees, it is invitingly scented, The wine presented by the NZ Prime Minister, with generous, citrusy, biscuity John Key to the King of Spain flavours, crisp, lively and long. The world famous Stonyridge Veranda Cafe Stylish, with excellent vivacity is open 7 days for lunch and tastings. and harmony. $43.99 Come join us during the Rugby World Cup!Clearview Pinot Noir Elephant Hill Reserve Stonyridge Vineyard, 80 Onetangi Road, Waiheke Island, New ZealandDes Trois 2010 Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2009 P +64 9 372 88 22 　F +64 9 372 87 66Originally a blend of grapes from Built to last, this is athree regions, but this wine powerful red, estate-grown [email protected] www.stonyridge.comwas made from Martinborough at Te Awanga, blended withgrapes, plus a small amount of viognier (1%) and maturedTe Awanga, Hawke’s Bay fruit. for 16 months in all-new oakPowerful, with deep, youthful barriques. Boldly coloured,colour and concentrated plum, it is fleshy, with highlycherry and spice flavours. concentrated blackcurrant andIt’s a “masculine” style, ripe spice flavours, fresh acidity andand savoury, with excellent loads of potential. $49complexity and backbone and Flying Sheep Hawke’s Baya long finish. Worth cellaring to Gewurztraminer 20102014+. $47 (A) Richly fragrant, exoticallyCraggy Range perfumed wine, estate-grownGimblett Gravels Vineyard at Mangatahi. Weighty (14.5%Merlot 2010 alc/vol), it’s a medium-dry styleStylish, estate-grown Hawke’s with concentrated stonefruit,Bay blend of merlot (86%) and spice and ginger flavours andcabernet franc (14%), matured loads of personality. Still fresh,for 10 months in French oak it’s drinking well now. (Frombarriques (28% new). Deeply Osawa.) $22.99 (A)coloured and full-bodied, with Glasnevin Limited Releasevibrant blackcurrant, plum Nobre Noble Riesling 2011and spice flavours, showing This refined dessert wine is fromgood concentration, hints of grapes late-picked at Waiparacoffee and dark chocolate, with 75% botrytis infection.and obvious potential. Open Still very fresh and youthful,2014+. $31.95 (A, UK) it is rich, citrusy and slightlyCraggy Range Gimblett spicy, revealing a gentle botrytisGravels Vineyard influence, plentiful sweetnessSyrah 2010 (160g/litre of residual sugar)Floral, finely textured Hawke’s balanced by appetising acidity,Bay red, blended with viognier and a very harmonious, long(3%) and matured in French finish. Best 2013+. $50oak barriques (25% new). Rich,purple-flushed hue. Weighty andintensely varietal, with fresh,concentrated, blackcurrant andspice flavours and ripe, suppletannins. Full of potential. Open2014+. $31.95 (A, UK) May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 121

MICHAEL COOPERGlasnevin Limited Martinborough Vineyard Auburn Alexandra Central Craggy Range KidnappersRelease Waipara Valley Chardonnay 2010 Otago Riesling 2011 Vineyard Hawke’s BayGewurztraminer 2011 Rich, well-rounded, barrique- Youthful, light, low alcohol style Chardonnay 2011Richly perfumed, weighty wine fermented wine, given a (9.5%) with a gentle splash of Grown near the coast at Te(14.5% alc/vol), harvested at full, softening malolactic sweetness (16g/litre of residual Awanga, this wine is a lightlyover 26 brix and fermented fermentation. Concentrated, sugar). Finely balanced, with wooded style, fermented in tanksand matured for six months with sweet-fruit delights, moderate acidity and very good and barrels. Mouthfilling, freshin French oak barriques. The strong, ripe, stonefruit flavours, depth of pure, citrusy, slightly and citrusy, with a very subtlebouquet is distinctly spicy; the a hint of butterscotch and good spicy flavours. One for the seasoning of oak, it’s a good foodpalate full-bodied, with strong, harmony. Delicious drinking cellar. $30 wine – crisp, refined, dry andripe lychee, pear and spice from now onwards. $42 Church Road sustained. $24.95 (A, UK, US)flavours, gentle sweetness, Osawa Prestige Limited Release Elephant Hill Rosé 2011excellent complexity, and a Collection Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2011 This classy rosé was hand-long, well-spiced finish. It’s Chardonnay 2010 Bright pink, full-bodied rosé, harvested at Alexandra, inalready delicious. $28 Powerful, single-vineyard wine, blended principally from merlot Central Otago, and fermentedJohanneshof Marlborough estate-grown at Mangatahi and syrah, fermented in tanks in tanks (mostly) and barrels.Gewürztraminer 2011 and fermented and matured and made in an ‘”off-dry” style. Pale pink, it is full-bodied, withHeady, exotic bouquet, leading for 10 months in French oak Fresh, berryish flavours, strong vibrant strawberry, spice andinto a fleshy, intensely varietal casks (80% new). Creamy, and lively, hints of apricots and apricot aromas and flavours,wine, still unfolding. Rich, richly fragrant bouquet, citrusy spices, and a well-rounded, showing excellent delicacy andripe lychee, ginger and spice and nutty. Mouthfilling body deliciously smooth finish. $28.99 freshness, a sliver of sweetnessflavours, in a distinctly medium (14.5% alc/vol), with strong, CJ Pask Gimblett Road and gentle tannins. $26 (UK)style (19.7g/litre of residual ripe fruit flavours, gentle Cabernet Merlot Flying Sheep Hawke’ssugar) with gentle acidity, and acidity, and buttery, toasty Malbec 2009 Bay Merlot Cabernetlovely harmony and depth. $29 characters adding richness and Bargain-priced Hawke’s Bay red, Sauvignon 2009 complexity. $44.99 (A) matured for over a year in French Fragrant, full-bodied, deeplyNautilus Marlborough Saint Clair Pioneer Block oak casks. Full, bright, youthful coloured blend of merlot (67%)Pinot Gris 2011 5 Bull Block Gruner colour. Mouthfilling, with an array and cabernet sauvignon,Poised, youthful wine, grown Veltliner 2011 of blackcurrant, plum, spice, French oak-aged for 17 months.mostly in the Awatere Valley Floral, refined wine, hand- dark chocolate and nut flavours. Good concentration of freshand hand-harvested. Full- picked in the Omaka Valley Shows excellent ripeness and plum and spice flavours, hintsbodied, with very fresh and and partly barrel-fermented. complexity, with the structure to of herbs and dark chocolate,vibrant, pure pear, lychee and Weighty and dry, with vibrant, mature well. $20 (A, UK) and ripe, smooth tannins. (Fromspice flavours, and a dryish well-ripened, peachy flavours, Osawa.) $32.99 (A)finish. Rich, with lees-ageing showing excellent delicacy and Clearview Estate Forrest Marlboroughcomplexity and good cellaring depth, and a distinctly spicy, Two Pinnacles Malbec Riesling 2010potential. $29 (A, UK) rounded finish. $23.50 (UK) Merlot 2010 Showing the benefits of bottle Stoneleigh Rapaura This gutsy, malbec-based red age, this wine is highly scented,Nautilus Marlborough Series Marlborough was estate-grown at Te Awanga, with some toasty complexity.Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Chardonnay 2011 in Hawke’s Bay, and blended A distinctly medium style, it hasMouthfilling, immaculate Delicious, young, fragrant, with merlot. Dark and purple- strong, citrusy, limey flavours,wine, very vibrant and punchy, weighty, single-vineyard wine flushed, with a spicy bouquet, showing good vigour andwith dry melon, passionfruit with concentrated stonefruit it is very youthful, with a strong acidity, and excellent balanceand lime flavours, showing and slight butterscotch flavours. surge of berry, plum, spice and and depth. Drink now onwards.excellent delicacy and poise. Rich, ripe and rounded, with a dark chocolate flavours, fresh $19 (A, UK, US)Slightly minerally, tightly mealy, toasty complexity from and concentrated. Best drinking Gibson Bridge Marlboroughstructured wine, for drinking fermentation in French oak 2014+. $27 (A) Sweet 16 2011 (375ml)now-2013. $24.95 (A, UK, US) casks (37% new) and lovely From fully botrytised pinot depth and harmony. $29.99 gris, this is a gold/amber-hued dessert wine with an advanced  level of sweetness (over 230g/ litre of residual sugar). A strongly 36 Bottles Central Otago botrytis-affected style with rich, Pinot Noir 2010 apricot-like flavours, hints of figs, Richly scented, supple, single- peaches, spices and honey, and vineyard red, grown at Bendigo. lively acidity, it’s quite forward; Deep, youthful colour, with drink now onwards. $45 fresh, strong, cherry, plum and Gibson Bridge spice flavours, seasoned with Reserve Marlborough quality oak (French, 40% new). Gewurztraminer 2011 Stylish, finely balanced wine, Single-vineyard wine, full- showing good complexity. $32 bodied and youthful, with strong lychee and spice flavours in an intensely varietal style with an off-dry, well- spiced, lasting finish. $28122 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

recent releasesGibson Bridge Matawhero GisborneTresor Rouge 2010 Merlot 2010This rare Marlborough red (only A top Gisborne red. Grown atone barrel was made) is a blend Patutahi and barrel-aged, it isof syrah, merlot, pinot noir deeply coloured and fleshy,and malbec. Bold and youthful with impressively concentratedin colour, it is concentrated, plum/spice flavours, a hintwith rich plum and spice of dark chocolate, firm, ripeflavours, ripe and supple. A top tannins and a strong, smoothvintage,worth cellaring. $75 finish. $25.90Greystone Waipara Valley Moana ParkPinot Noir 2010 Reserve Gimblett GravelsDeeply coloured, concentrated Syrah 2010and supple, with impressive Single-vineyard, Hawke’s Bayweight and strong plum, red, still very youthful. Maturedcherry, olive and herb flavours, for 18 months in Frenchshowing good complexity. A oak barriques and bottledfinely textured wine with a rich, unfined and unfiltered, it isrounded finish. $39.95 deeply coloured, with vibrantHaha Marlborough blackcurrant, plum and pepperSauvignon Blanc 2011 flavours, woven with freshA ”steal”. From Hawke’s Bay- acidity, and good concentrationbased Fern Ridge Wines, this and vigour. Best 2014+. $32 (A)wine was grown at five sites in Saint Clair Marlboroughthe Wairau Valley. Weighty, it has Gruner Veltliner 2011ripe, passionfruit/lime flavours, Full-bodied and dry, with veryfresh, crisp and dry, a minerally good depth of ripe, peachy,streak and a long finish. $16 citrusy, slightly spicy flavours,Hawkshead First Vines a touch of oak/lees-ageingPinot Noir 2010 complexity and a well-roundedPicked from the oldest vines, finish. Very fresh, weighty andthis is a single-vineyard red from generous. $21.50 (A)Gibbston, in Central Otago. Osawa PrestigeDeep ruby, it is mouthfilling, Collection Hawke’s Bayvibrantly fruity and savoury, Sauvignon Blanc 2010with generous plum and dried A “serious” style of sauvignonherb flavours, woven with blanc, in the mould of dryfresh acidity, supple tannins, white Bordeaux. Estate-grownand good complexity. It’s still at Mangatahi and barrel-youthful; open 2013+. $45 (A) fermented (French, 83% new),Metis Hawke’s Bay it is youthful in colour andSauvignon Blanc 2010 weighty, with ripe, tropical fruitWeighty wine with citrus fruit, flavours, oak richness, goodgreen capsicum and lime complexity and a dry, longflavours, showing excellent finish. $42.99 (A)depth, a minerally thread,good acid spine and a long,dry finish. Slightly moreherbaceous than past vintages.(From a joint venture betweenTrinity Hill and Loire Valleyproducer Pascal Jolivet.) $27Moana Park Reserve Doc’s Sileni The Lodge Hawke’sBlock Viognier 2011 Bay Chardonnay 2011Showing strong personality, Tight, ageworthy wine, hand-this single-vineyard wine picked, barrel-fermented andwas grown at Te Awanga, matured on its gross lees in oakin Hawke’s Bay, and French for nine months. Butterscotchoak-aged for six months. aromas lead into a very vibrantSlightly chardonnay-like, it is palate with peachy, slightlymouthfilling and dry, with an spicy, toasty flavours, showingoak-influenced bouquet and good intensity, and fresh, livelyfleshy palate, peachy, slightly acidity. Elegant, youthful wine,nutty, creamy and soft. $32 (A) still unfolding. $32 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 123

MICHAEL COOPERSustainable Dots Hawke’s Clearview Cape Flying Sheep Hawke’s Bay Kate RadburndBay Gewurztraminer 2010 Kidnappers Merlot Sangiovese 2009 Bud Burst MarlboroughEstate-grown at Mangatahi, Cabernet 2010 Fullish colour, with fresh, Sauvignon Blanc 2011this fleshy, Alsace-style wine Grown on the coast and smooth, red berry/spice Mouthfilling and dry, in a clearlyhas excellent weight and depth further inland, this Hawke’s flavours and some leathery, herbaceous style with someof citrus fruit, lychee and spice Bay regional blend is based savoury complexity. Full-bodied tropical fruit notes. Punchy,flavours. Drinking well now, on merlot (59%), cabernet red (14.5% alc/vol) with lots with lively acidity and a tight,with considerable complexity sauvignon (34%) and malbec of interest and current appeal. lengthy finish. $18 (A, UK)and a well-rounded finish. (7%). Matured in French and (From Osawa.) $34.99 Martinborough Vineyard(From Osawa.) $22.99 American oak casks, it is Gibson Bridge Te Tera Pinot Noir 2011 deeply coloured, with sweet Marlborough Floral, supple, ruby-hued½ oak aromas and strong, ripe Pinot Gris Rosé 2011 red with drink-young charm. blackcurrant and plum flavours, Hand-picked and barrel-aged, Moderately rich cherry andAbbey Cellars Cardinal still fresh and youthful. $21 this faintly pink wine has a plum flavours, with a gentleHawke’s Bay Cabernet Dunnolly Parish Family floral bouquet, with a hint seasoning of oak, someSauvignon 2009 Estate Pinot Noir 2010 of apricots. Mouthfilling and savoury complexity, and a well-Deeply coloured blend of Ageworthy, single-vineyard smooth, it’s an easy-drinking rounded finish. $33 (A, UK)cabernet sauvignon (85%), Waipara red. Ruby hued, style with strawberry and spice Matawhero Gisbornecabernet franc (8%) and medium-bodied style, still very flavours, showing good depth Gewurztraminer 2011malbec (7%), estate-grown fresh and vibrant, with plum, and complexity. $22 Estate-grown at Patutahi, thisin The Triangle. Good cherry and spice flavours, Gibson Bridge Single is an almost dry wine withconcentration of blackcurrant, showing good ripeness and Vineyard Marlborough a spicy, perfumed bouquet.herb, plum and nut flavours, in depth. Some nutty, savoury Pinot Gris 2010 Full-bodied, it is well-spiced,a smooth, moderately complex complexity, with good tannin Fresh, strong pear and lychee with pear, lychee and gingerstyle, drinking well now. $24.95 backbone. $29.95 flavours, with a hint of ginger flavours showing very goodBrancott Estate Living Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay and a dryish, finely balanced, depth. $25.90Land Series Marlborough Pinot Gris 2011 distinctly spicy finish. Drink Matawhero GisborneChardonnay 2011 Estate-grown at Te Awanga, now onwards. $25 Pinot Gris 2011From grapes in conversion to and fermented in tanks and Haha Marlborough Fresh, medium to full-bodiedorganic production, this fully seasoned oak barriques, this is Pinot Noir 2010 wine with very good depth ofbarrel-fermented wine has a a full-bodied wine with gentle One of the best sub-$20 pinot peach, pear and spice flavours.fresh, slightly biscuit bouquet. sweetness and moderately noirs on the market. Grown in Vibrantly fruity, slightly sweetVibrant, with strong, grapefruit- concentrated pear, lychee, the Awatere Valley (90%) and style with a finely balanced,like flavours to the fore and a apricot and spice flavours, fresh the upper Wairau Valley (10%), smooth finish. $25.90hint of butterscotch, it shows and smooth. $29 and 40 per cent barrel-aged, it Moana Park Hawke’s Baysome complexity, with a Floating Rock Lake Taupo is deeply coloured, with fresh, Merlot Malbec 2011creamy-smooth finish. $23.99 Pinot Gris 2011 vibrant plum and spice aromas. This good, ageworthy red is aBrunton Road Gisborne Grown 382m above sea level, Mouthfilling, warm and supple, blend of Gimblett Gravels andPinot Gris 2011 this wine flows from one of the it shows very good ripeness Dartmoor Valley grapes, bottledAttractively fresh, vibrant, clearly highest altitude vineyards in and depth, with gentle tannins unfined and unfiltered. Full-varietal wine, estate-grown at the country. Mouthfilling, fresh and great drinkability. $19.99 coloured, it is sturdy, with lotsPatutahi and tank-fermented. and vibrantly fruity, it is finely Hawkshead of fresh, plummy, spicy flavourMedium-bodied, with a hint of poised, with slightly sweet, Gibbston Central Otago and a firm finish. Best 2013+.sweetness and finely balanced, peachy, gently spicy flavours, Pinot Gris 2011 Priced right at $22. (A)pear and spice flavours, which balanced acidity and some Attractively scented, full- Moana Park Hawke’s Bayshow good depth. Enjoyable ageing potential. $25 bodied wine, grown at Syrah 2011now onwards. $22 Flying Sheep Hawke’s Bay Gibbston, with strong, fresh Fruit-driven style from theCJ Pask Gimblett Road Chardonnay 2010 pear and lychee flavours, hints Gimblett Gravels, full-coloured,Chardonnay 2009 Fruit-driven style, estate-grown of apples and limes, a gentle with a fragrant, strongly varietalDrinking well now, this at Mangatahi. Slightly creamy, splash of sweetness and lively bouquet. Youthful, with veryHawke’s Bay wine was partly with substantial body (14.5% acidity. $25.95 (A) good depth of plum and blackbarrel-matured. It’s an elegant alc/vol), grapefruit-like flavours, Hawkshead Central Otago pepper flavours, supple tanninsstyle, full-bodied, with ripe, buttery notes, fresh acidity, and Riesling 2011 and plenty of personality. $22 (A)peachy, fruit flavours to the very good vigour and depth. Medium-dry style, grown at Osawa Prestigefore, balanced acidity and a (From Osawa.) $19.99 (A) Bendigo, in the Cromwell Collection Hawke’s Baygentle seasoning of toasty Flying Sheep Hawke’s Bay Basin. Strong, citrusy, slightly Pinot Noir 2010French oak. $20 (A, UK) Pinot Noir 2010 limey flavours, threaded Subtle red, estate-grown atClearview Beachhead Enjoyable now, this is a single- with fresh acidity, gentle Mangatahi and French oak-Hawke’s Bay vineyard red, estate-grown at sweetness, and very good aged. Ruby hued, with cherryChardonnay 2011 Mangatahi and French oak-aged balance and depth. Enjoyable and dried herb aromas andHand-picked on the coast at for nine months. Light ruby, it young. $19.95 (A) flavours. Finely textured,Te Awanga and fermented in has moderately concentrated with savoury, nutty notesseasoned, French oak barrels, strawberry, cherry, plum and adding complexity. Drink nowthis is a very fresh and vibrant herb flavours, showing some onwards. $45.99 (A)wine. It has crisp, citrusy savoury complexity, and ripe,fruit flavours to the fore, in a supple tannins. (From Osawa.)moderately complex style, for $34.99 (A)drinking now or cellaring. $26124 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

AWARD WINNING WINES 100% ESTATE GROWN Pinot Noir Riesling Pinot Gris Sauvignon BlancDom Maxwell New Zealand Gewürztraminer Chardonnaywinemaker of the year 2011,Winestate Magazine. Greystone Wines WWAIPPARAA VAALLEY • NCEHWRISZTECAHLUARNCDH • NEW ZEALANDGreystone Wines Pty Ltd. Ian Hill, New Zealand Sales & Export Manager. Phone: +64 277 276 197. Email: [email protected] Hong Kong Distributor.Albert Yeung Phone: 852 2306 3881. Email:[email protected] www.greystonewines.co.nz

MICHAEL COOPER Spy Valley Marlborough Kate Radburnd Liquid Merlot Malbec 2010 Gold Hawke’s Bay126 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012 Dark, purple-flushed blend Chardonnay 2010 of merlot (84%) and malbec Full-bodied and slightly creamy, (16%), matured for over a with ripe, citrusy, peachy year in French oak casks (30% flavours and a gentle seasoning new). Brambly and spicy, with of sweet oak. A good, drink- loads of flavour. Fresh,youthful, young style. $18 (A, UK) moderately complex style, with Kate Radburnd Rich Royal hints of coffee and herbs, and Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2009 firm underlying tannins. $22.95 Easy-drinking, full-bodied red Sustainable Dots Hawke’s with fullish colour and plenty Bay Pinot Gris 2010 of fresh, plummy, slightly spicy Mouthfilling body, with plenty flavour. $18 (A, UK) of vibrant, citrusy, peachy Matawhero Church House flavour, a splash of sweetness Gisborne Chardonnay and lively acidity. Finely Musque 2011 balanced wine, enjoyable now. From a chardonnay clone noted (From Osawa.) $22.99 for “muscat character”, this is a medium-to-full-bodied wine with  a fresh, floral bouquet. Peachy and slightly spicy, with a smooth, Abbey Cellars Bishop off-dry finish, it’s a very easy- Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2009 drinking wine which impresses Full-bodied, merlot-based red more as an aromatic white than (85%) grown in The Triangle a chardonnay. $27.90 and blended with minor Matawhero Gisborne portions of malbec, cabernet Chardonnay 2011 franc and cabernet sauvignon. Enjoyable, drink-young style. Good depth of plum, olive, Full-bodied and vibrantly fruity, herb and spice flavours, with with citrusy, uncomplicated some leathery notes emerging. flavours, showing good Enjoyable now. $24.95 freshness and depth. $25.90 Brancott Estate Living Saint Clair Marlborough Land Series Marlborough Pinot Noir 2011 Pinot Noir 2011 Bright ruby hue. Fruit-driven Light ruby, medium-bodied style, style, partly barrel-aged, with partly barrel-aged. Youthful wine red berry and plum flavours, a with ripe plum, cherry and spice touch of savoury complexity, flavours, a touch of complexity and very gentle tannins. Fresh, and decent depth. $23.99 smooth red with drink-young Flying Sheep Hawke’s Bay charm. $21.50 (A) Pinot Gris 2010 Sileni Cellar Sturdy, substantial wine Selection Hawke’s Bay (14.5% alc/vol), estate-grown Chardonnay 2011 at Mangatahi. Peach and Fresh, lively, drink-young style pear flavours, with a dryish, with citrusy fruit flavours to the rounded, slightly ”hot” finish. fore, hints of apples and spices, (From Osawa.) $22.99 and a touch of butterscotch. Forrest Marlborough Smooth, easy drinking. $20 Chenin Blanc 2010 Sustainable Dots Hawke’s Estate-grown in the Wairau Bay Pinot Noir 2010 Valley and fermented in old Full-bodied red, estate-grown oak casks, this rare wine is at Mangatahi. Ruby hued, with medium-bodied and gently fresh cherry and dried herb sweet, with good acid spine flavours, a gentle oak influence and fresh, lemony, apple and a smooth finish. Enjoyable flavours. It’s still very youthful; now. (From Osawa.) $31.99 open 2013+. $25 Gibson Bridge Tresor Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Rouge 2011 Syrah 2011 Overshadowed by the 2010, Medium-bodied, drink-young this rare Marlborough red is a style, grown in the Gimblett blend of syrah, merlot, pinot noir Gravels and blended with viognier and malbec. Ruby hued, it has (2%). Full-coloured, with strong moderately ripe, berryish flavours plum and black pepper flavours, and a fresh, smooth, pinot noir- gentle tannins and a fresh, ish appeal. $65 smooth finish. $23.50 (A, UK)

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDMay/June 2012 Issue 123 FREE COPY neIwN THrISelISeSUaEses THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE AND LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Top 40 Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411BEST VALUE BUYS UNDER $20

383 TASTED199 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESThis was one of our more difficult new release tastings with Mad Fish Western SAUVIGNONthe dreaded 2011 vintage in the southern states causing some Australia Premium BLANCdisruptions to quality and consistency. The better producers still White 2011 HHH1/2 & BLENDSmanaged to get their wines across the line and, of course, there A fresh, well-madeis lots to choose from in the older vintages. Of note were the wine with a complexity 24 TASTEDhighly enjoyable red blends, some surprisingly good merlots and of tropical aromas and 10 AWARDEDconsistent quality cabernet sauvignons. a nice balance of fruit Generally a class lacking flavours and acidity. $17 varietal definition andSPARKLING Cumulus Estate Fox Gordon Princess fruit intensity. “This is Wines Rolling Adelaide Hills Fiano no doubt the cool and19 TASTED Sparkling Pinot 2011 HHH1/2 wet vintage factor,”5 AWARDED Grigio Chardonnay Pungent bouquet suggested one judge. 2011 HHH with interesting spicy However, those winesLots of varying styles Fresh and pleasant notes and a warming, reviewed did showhere, ranging from strawberry aromas flavoursome palate with some character anddry to sweet with the with mouthfilling citrus good savoury flavour freshness of fruit.better wines showing flavours and a crisp profile. $19.95balance of sugar and finish. $18 Fox Gordon Mad Fishacid. Many of those Rutherglen Estates Abby Adelaide Western Australiawines not recommended Estate Grown Shiraz Hills Viognier Sauvignon Blanceither showed basic Durif 2010 HHH 2011 HHH1/2 Semillon 2011 HHHHwinemaking faults or had Deep purple wine with A complex varietal Lifted pungent tropicallost flavour freshness. intense concentration with lifted jasmine-like fruit aromas. Quite of stalky, dark berry and aromas. Flavoursome fleshy in the mouth chocolate aromas and palate, oily smooth in with excellent varietal flavours. $26.95 the mouth, some alcohol fruit flavours. Good acid heat. $19.95 backbone to balance. $17 Brown Brothers Boat O’Craigo Yarra All Saints Patricia Pinot Noir Valley Blanc de Estate Marsanne Chardonnay Brut Blancs 2010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 2006 HHHH A fuller traditional Honeyed nose with Beautifully developed style - more developed herbal notes. Nice oily honeyed characters and yeasty with some texture in the mouth on the nose. Excellent complexity on the with good integration of creamy lemon palate palate. $32 soft herbal fruit, acidity with biscuity complexity. and alcohol. $22 Sweet up-front, drying OTHER WHITE Rutherglen Estates finish. $45.90 VARIETALS Estate Grown Thorn-Clarke & BLENDS Savagnin 2011 HHH Brut Reserve Light lemon nose and Eden Valley Pinot 16 TASTED good savoury flavours, Noir Chardonnay 6 AWARDED some lemon touches NV HHH1/2 and herbal notes. $15.95 Subtle floral/strawberry As expected, these were Laurance of aromas and delicate, a mixed bag of wines. Margaret River tart, strawberry flavours. It is good to see other White 2010 HHH A balanced and well- varieties but they do Lively, well-integrated made sparkling. $16 need to deliver varietal aged fruit aromas and expression. The judges flavours with good were disappointed with backbone of acid. $29 the verdelhos.128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingFermoy Margaret Quarisa 30 MileRiver Sauvignon Sauvignon BlancBlanc 2011 HHHH 2011 HHHVibrant, fresh, fruit nose A thick, solid style,- some nice toastiness offering a big mouthfuldeveloping. Good depth of flavour with niceof complex fleshy fruit glycerol texture. $9.99flavours with a long, Allegory Westerncitrussy finish. $25 Australia Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Modest nose - some award winning capsicum and herbs. wines from Simple, pleasant and crisp herbal palate. $18 sirromet winery Gapsted Ballerina Canopy King Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Strong herbaceous aromas and very powerful flavours in the herbal spectrum. $19 Barristers Block Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Estery floral bouquet with fleshy, vibrant, fruit flavours with a candy- like edge. $20Allegory Western Sittella Margaret GOLD MEDAL china ukAustralia Sauvignon River Sauvignon WINNER internationalBlanc Semillon Blanc Semillon international2011 HHHH 2011 HHH wine show wine challenGeLifted and powerful Herbaceous aromasasparagus and lychee-like and good depth of Goldbouquet, and plenty of crisp, clean, herbaceousclean, fresh, gooseberry flavours. $22 Goldflavours with a lively acidstructure. $18 PINOT GRIS/ royal hobartTrentham Sauvignon GRIGIO wine showBlanc 2011 HHH1/2Very varietal aromas 7 TASTED Collecting over 550 prestigious national and international winewith good intensity of 2 AWARDED awards since being established in 2000, Sirromet is a familyvarietal flavours; lots of owned company proud to present premium Australian winesgreen beans, lychees Forget the colours of the from the Granite Belt region. Our winemakers are consistentlyand herbs. $14 wines made from thisNeve Marlborough variety as they always striving for excellence to produce high quality wines.Sauvignon Blanc tend to brownness2011 HHH or grayish overtones.Ripe, sweet, fruit A couple of goodnose with rich, tropical examples in both styles.flavours with goodsupporting acid. $5.99 Award Winning Wines from Sirromet Winery The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

NEW RELEASESNormans Holbrooks Seppeltsfield Eden A.C Byrne & Co Quarisa Johnny Bimbadgen SignatureRoad South Eastern Valley Riesling Margaret River Q Adelaide Hills Palmers LaneAustralia Pinot Gris 2011 HHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon Vineyard Semillon2011 HHH1/2 Some citrus and apple Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Blanc 2011 HHH 2009 HHH1/2True gris style with definition on the nose Light and lively with Nicely balanced dry A genuine semillonbroad pear aromas and a crisp, austere good length and white with fresh varietal made in a dry,and long, flavoursome palate with some classic, complexity. Smelling of tropical characters austere, aperitif stylepalate. Should improve lemony flavours. $19 gooseberries and tasting and an herbaceous and offering plenty ofwith a couple of years in Tower Estate of melon skins. $9.99 background. $11.99 cellaring potential. $40the bottle. $9.95 Meadowbank The Puppeteer Tasmania South Australia Preveli Margaret CHARDONNAYRobert Oatley Wild Riesling 2011 HHH Semillon Sauvignon River Semillon 2011Oats Pinot Grigio Smells of citrus Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc2010 HHH blossom and has an Powerfully ripe aged 2011 HHH 24 TASTEDPleasant, ripe Nashi intensely sweet palate fruit nose and big, rich Grassy varietal aromas 9 AWARDEDpear-like bouquet with but balanced by high palate with soft, well- with similar characters A tough group; lots ofvibrant melony flavours acid. $28 integrated fruit flavours. on the light and simple wines and someand crisp finish. $18.99 Serve it cold! $8.90 refreshing palate. $19.95 with basic winemaking SEMILLON faults. “A numberRIESLING BLENDS Fermoy The of winemakers still Partnership don’t understand the13 TASTED 11 TASTED Margaret River interaction between4 AWARDED 7 AWARDED Semillon Sauvignon acid, fruit tannins and A very light bodied class Blanc 2011 HHH oak,” noted one judge.Not much varietal of easy drinkers showing Typical tinned pea/ The better wines hadcharacter showing here the strain of a tough asparagus varietal more depth of fruit andwhich perhaps reflects vintage. “Some excellent characters on nose well-managed oak.the cool and wet vintage. winemaking here to and palate with light, deliver wines true to perfumed notes. $20 Two RiversSkillogalee Trevarrick style,” said one judge. Reserve HunterClare Valley Riesling Capel Vale Regional Valley Chardonnay2010 HHHH The Puppeteer Series Pemberton 2011 HHHH1/2Lifted zesty citrus South Australia Semillon Sauvignon A big, lifted hit of flintybouquet and powerful Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH peach and sweet fig-likevarietal fruit depth on Blanc 2008 HHHH Clean, pungent, green aromas wrapped inthe palate. Excellent acid Nicely developed aromas and interesting lovely cashew-like oak.length and balance with citrussy aromas with stalky fruit flavours with Palate offers a mouthfula drying finish. $45 hints of kero-like notes. nutty finish. $24.95 of sweet fruit flavours, Soft and slightly oily in soft oak and nice acidGapsted Valley the mouth with pleasant SEMILLON backbone. $24Selection Riesling fruit flavours and a crisp2011 HHH1/2 finish. $8.90 6 TASTEDRestrained minerally 3 AWARDEDaromas and soft,cooked, apple-like A small class offlavours with more of diverse wines wherethe mineral characters. the better winemakersA crowd pleaser. $17.50 delivered the best wines across a number of different vintages. Hart of the Barossa Brave & Faithful Semillon 2007 HHHH Beautifully aged, soft and integrated wine that’s at its peak with nicely developed secondary characters and some subtle oak poking through. $18 Bimbadgen Estate Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 HHH1/2 Very delicate, classic, white peach bouquet and good palate length with lemon juice flavours and tight acid. $20130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Eden Valley Chardonnay 2011 HHH Aperitif style with a peachy/toasty oak nose and citrus, acid-based flavours. $16 Penny’s Hill The Handshake Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2011 HHH Yellow peach and cooked fig-like varietal fruit with lashings of lovely oak. $19Gartelmann Sarah Robert OatleyElizabeth Hunter Signature MargaretValley Chardonnay River Chardonnay2011 HHHH 2011 HHHA very well-made A very delicate wine withchardonnay with obvious spicy, floral fruit and nicespicy oak on the lemony use of oak. $23.99nose and a lovely depthand length of pristine CHARDONNAYvarietal fruit flavours. $30 2010 & OLDERChurchview EstateSilverleaf Margaret 13 TASTEDRiver Chardonnay 6 AWARDED2011 HHH1/2Sweet fig bouquet; some A mixed group. Somegreen notes and more of wines ageing gracefully,the fig-like characters on while others havethe palate. Good wood, already seen theirtight acid. $13 best days or had ageRichard Hamilton fermentation issues.Almond GroveMcLaren Vale Warner GlenChardonnay Estate Chardonnay2011 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHBig peaches and cream Well-made, mediumnose and an oak-driven bodied, varietal withpalate with flinty white lifted sweet and spicypeach flavours with a floral fruit matched withfirm finish. $16.95 some “sexy” oak andNormans Holbrooks warming alcohol. $30Road South EasternAustralia Chardonnay A.C Byrne & Co2011 HHH Margaret RiverSubtle musky Chardonnayconfectionery aromas and 2010 HHHlight, elegant palate with Delicate floral bouquetdry white flavours. $9.95 and very elegant, well-Taylors Eighty balanced, lemony palate.Acres South “Very feminine”. $9.99Australia Chardonnay2011 HHH Sticks YarraSimple nose of lemons Valley Chardonnayand toast and an 2010 HHHattractive, light, fruity Citrussy aromas with apalate. Refreshing floral lift and good depthdrink. $15 of varietal fruit on an oak-driven palate. $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131

NEW RELEASESTaylors Clare Linfield Road PINOT NOIR Epsilon Barossa OTHER REDValley Chardonnay Barossa Grenache Tempranillo Graciano VARIETALS2010 HHH Rosé 2011 HHH 10 TASTED 2010 HHHHA fresh, easy drinking Interesting style. Bright Well-made wine - smells 15 TASTEDstyle with a peaches and hues, intense crunchy 2 AWARDED of licorice and cigar 11 AWARDEDcream nose, and very cherry fruit, vanillin oak, boxes with barnyardyflavoursome palate. $19 pepper and spice. $16 A very disappointing notes. Sweet fruit An impressive group, group with too many on the palate with the best we have seenPreveli Margaret Seppeltsfield dry red styles instead solid, tarry oak cutting in a line-up like this. LotsRiver Chardonnay Estate Grenache of varietals and oak through. $25 to try and lots to like -2010 HHH Rosé 2011 HHH dominant issues. Tenafeate Creek really well-made wines.A pleasant, light and Soft fruity style - Wines Black Toplively wine full of melon quiet ripe and sweet Paringa Estate Blend Petit Verdot 919 Tourigaand stonefruit characters with suggestions Estate Mornington Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 HHHH1/2and obvious oak. $24.95 of strawberries and Peninsula Pinot Noir Merlot 2009 HHHH “An honest varietal,” saidIndigo Secret raspberries. $19 2009 HHH1/2 One for the cellar. one judge. Almost vintageVillage Beechworth Bordeaux-like characters port-like on the nose withChardonnay An honest varietal with to the powerful nose its licoricey, black fruit2009 HHH solid, young, berry fruits with a similar palate. aromas. ExcellentFull, complex, nicely and balancing tannins. Good length and balance of pristine,aged wine that’s at Offers good cellaring strength with dried fruit/ black fruit flavours withits peak and ready for potential. 3-5 $60 oak flavours. $30 lively acidity. $38drinking now. $32 Heritage Estate Robert Oatley Mourvedre Shiraz Hand CraftedROSE Signature 2011 HHH by Geoff Hardy Mornington Tarry, black olive aromas Adelaide Teroldego10 TASTED Peninsula Pinot Noir with pleasant and nicely 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH balanced berry fruit/oak An intriguing, well-made5 AWARDED A lighter, simpler style flavours. $25 wine with powerful, but it has all the correct minty charactersA consistent group of varietal components dominating the noserosés with the better nicely in balance. $23.99 and popping up on thewines here showing a thick, viscous palatetouch more varietal lift and OTHER RED Cock + Bull Limited with excellent depth offreshness of fruit flavours. BLENDS Release Estate ripe fruit and five spice Grown South flavours. $22Blackbilly McLaren Whistling Kite 10 TASTED Australia RubienneVale Tempranillo Biodynamic Wine 5 AWARDED 2011 HHH Hand CraftedRosado 2011 HHHH Rosé 2011 HHH A powerful, youthful, by Geoff HardyAttractive, salmon pink A drier style with subtle, There were some “chewy”, fruit-driven Langhorne Creekwine with subtle aromas floral red fruits and interesting and worthy style that is full of Primitivo 2010 HHHHof strawberries and good acid backbone. blends in this group, but vibrant dark fruits. $7.90 An unctuous monsterblack fruits followed by Refreshing and there were also those Dowie Doole that is absolutelya long, well-balanced, flavoursome. $20 that looked like left-overs G & T McLaren brimming over withsweet fruit palate. $20 or “shotgun weddings,” Vale Garnacha sweet varietal fruit,South Point Estate as one judge put it. Tempranillo savoury olive, spicySouth Eastern However, the winemaking 2011 HHH and herbal aromas andAustralia Rosé was good even if the A lighter style with flavours. $222011 HHH fruit sometimes wasn’t spicy olive tapenade-likeCherries, raspberries and that great. characters on nose andstrawberries on the nose palate. $25and soft jammy flavoursin the mouth. $4.99JUDGES Bill Hardy Gemma West Corporate oenologist for Winemaker for AWRI. Peter Simic Accolade Wines (formerly Formerly with Provisor Editor/publisher Winestate Constellation). 28 years’ and Orlando Wines. Magazine. More than 35 years’ winemaking experience in Ten vintages across experience in the wine industry. places such as McLaren Vale, Australia and California. Formerly founding publisher Western Australia and France. Associate judge, New of the first US colour wine Has judged internationally England Wine Show. magazine, manager of the SA (France and Japan), and been Wine Information Bureau, and an associate or senior judge at wine educator with Regency more than 20 state and regional College, in SA. Also a regular wine shows in Australia. wine commentator on national radio and television programs.132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting St Leonards Vineyard Durif 2010 HHH Dense brooding nose and powerful, sweet, fruit palate with drying tannins and zesty finish. $28 CD Seppeltsfield Barossa Lagrein 2010 HHH Soft, rounded varietal with very youthful primary fruit and good level of tannins. $39 Robert Oatley Wild Oats Tempranillo 2009 HHH Good drinking now; nice combo of red fruits, licorice, smoky oak and soft tannins. $18.99Whistling Kite MERLOTBiodynamic Wine & BLENDSMontepulciano2011 HHHH 19 TASTEDRustic, leathery aromas 10 AWARDEDwith a slight floral lift.Very interesting palate A difficult stand-alonefull of sweet, ripe fruit variety but the judgesflavours and warming were pleasantly surprisedalcohol. $28 by the quality of this class. “WinemakersBremerton seem to have a betterLanghorne Creek understanding of theMalbec 2010 HHH1/2 variety and what isYouthful, tarry aromas required to make a greatwith violet-like elements. merlot,” noted one judge.Thick and fleshy inthe mouth with lots of Rileys of Eden Valleyfruit flavours and soft The Engineer Merlottannins. 5+ $24 2011 HHHH1/2 Interesting sweet/La Curio New World savoury nose; bright,Order McLaren Vale minty and chocolaty.Sangiovese Soft and velvety in the2010 HHH1/2 mouth with a powerfulClosed minty bouquet hit of fruit flavours well-with hints of red fruits matched by some lovelyand a firm, tannic palate oak. $22.95showing a good level ofvarietal fruit flavours. $23 Draytons Family Wines Hunter ValleySittella Swan Merlot 2011 HHH1/2Valley Petit Verdot Light and simple wine2010 HHH with lovely, sweet, plumSmells of mixed berries and herbal notes on thewith lifted lavender nose and well-balanced,notes and solid, sweet, flavoursome palate. $20red fruit/oak palate. $21 Elderton BarossaLa Curio The Merlot 2010 HHH1/2Original Sin Intense, sweet berry/McLaren Vale plum nose with nice oakPrimitivo 2010 HHH characters and soft, well-Integrated oaky aromas integrated palate withand a juicy, sweet, black good berry elements. $30fruit palate that’s soft inthe mouth. $23 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

NEW RELEASES GRENACHE CABERNET BLENDS BLENDS 7 TASTED 20 TASTED 2 AWARDED 9 AWARDED “A lack of joy here,” More good wines to commented one judge. choose from here with “These wines seem the best wines showing to have been thrown vibrancy and lovely together; you don’t have integration of blends. to have a dark-as-sin “Cabernet is very wine, you need to have adaptable to blending red fruits and spice with other red varieties,” characters rather than said one judge. primal vinous flavours.”Claire Creek South Capel Vale Debut La Curio McLaren Gardner’s Vineyard Skillogalee TrevarrickEastern Australia Western Australia Vale Grenache Grenache Clare Valley CabernetMerlot 2010 HHH1/2 Merlot 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2Dusty fruit aromas and Young, fresh and minty A very well-balanced Soft prune fruit nose An appealing, well-made,nice depth of sweet on the nose with a wine with lifted, spicy with a perfumed lift. oak-driven wine that’soak and fruit flavours similar palate and cherry fruit, some drying Very soft in the mouth holding up well and iswith drying tannins finishing dry. $17.95 oak and lovely firm offering lovely, sweet, loaded with dark fruitand warming alcohol Heritage Estate tannins. $23 rich fruit flavours. $20 characters that are well-finish. $5.99 Merlot Cabernet La Curio Reserve matched with the wood.Normans Holbrooks 2011 HHH Atze’s Corner El McLaren Vale Some nice mintiness. CanRoad South Eastern A powerful, herbaceous Renegado Barossa Bush Vine Grenache take more cellaring. $70Australia Merlot nose with lean, green, Grenache Mataro 2010 HHH2011 HHH briary fruit flavours - very Graciano 2010 HHH Bright strawberry-likeRipe red berry aromas varietal. $25 Dense, powerful, meaty aromas; some earthiness.with a lift of lilacs and Linfield Road The nose with touches of Light berry palate with asimple, spicy palate with Monarch Barossa olives and lavender; warming finish. $28firm tannins. $9.95 Merlot 2010 HHH similar palate. $23 Tenafeate CreekDowie Doole Crimson wine with Wines Basket PressMcLaren Vale Merlot pleasant berry/oak GRENACHE Grenache 2010 HHH2010 HHH bouquet and rich, Closed, earthy, herbalBeautifully elegant aged balanced palate. Good 7 TASTED bouquet and pleasantaromas and lovely and tannic grip. $22 4 AWARDED palate with good varietalsoft, and chocolaty in Laurance of characters. Modernthe mouth. $22 Margaret River A better group of style. $25 Merlot 2010 HHH consistent but borderline Penny’s HillJUDGES Excellent balance wines showing more The Experiment between varietal fruit varietal character and McLaren Vale and some lovely oak. better balance over all. Grenache 2010 HHH One for further ageing. Delicate nose of herbs, berries and tarry oak. 3-5 $26 Palate has berry fruit matched with drying oak. $30Matt Holdstock Martin Verryt Steve BrownSenior Oenologist with State manager, SA & WA Winemaker Padthawaythe Australian Wine Grapeworks. 28 years Estate. PreviouslyResearch Institute. in the wine industry, winemaker Goona WarraHas vintaged in South from wine marketing, Wines (Sunbury). CompletedAustralia, Sonoma restaurant advisor and a wine masters course(California), and Bordeaux tasting consultant in in Dijon. Judged at the(France). Associate judge McLaren Vale. Riesling du Monde, Pinotat the Australian Small Gris and Gewurztraminer inWinemaker’s Show. Strasburg. Also judged at Victorian wine show.134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingMaximus McLaren Thorn-ClarkeVale Cabernet Quartage BarossaShiraz 2010 HHHH Cabernet SauvignonStylish wine with spicy, Cabernet Francleathery nose that has Malbec Merlota lovely estery/floral lift 2010 HHH1/2and a soft, sweet fruit A big wine with anpalate with some oaky/licorice noselovely chocolaty and a mouthful ofelements. $24.99 well-balanced, fruit/ oak flavours on nicely textured palate. $20 Draytons Family Wines Hunter Valley Cabernet Merlot 2011 HHH Red berries on the nose and a tight, savoury palate with attractive black fruit and oak. $20 Ridgemill Estate Pedigree Granite Belt Cabernet Malbec Merlot 2009 HHH A huge, inky style with masses of oak, powerful ripe fruit and high level of acid. 5+ $25Mad Fish Premium Elderton Ode To International Wine and SpiritRed Western Lorraine Barossa Competition UK 2011Australia Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Merlot Shiraz Merlot AWC Vienna International2009 HHHH 2009 HHH Wine Challenge 2011A big, concentrated Fruity nose developingcabernet that’s nice, aged notes and South Australian Wine of the Yearsweet, balanced and elegant, sweet fruit Awards 2011 (Museum Reds)flavoursome with tarry flavours. A keeper.notes on the nose and Winestate blind tasting ratedgood palate weight and 5+ $55 Empyrean above Château Latour,length. $17Di Giorgio Family CABERNET Mouton and Lafite 2011Frank Limestone SAUVIGNONCoast Cabernet 2011 - 2010 Respected wine writer Tony Love selectedMerlot Shiraz Empyrean as best red wine of SA 20112011 HHH1/2 25 TASTEDA fresh, young wine with 20 AWARDED Decanter World Wine Awards 2010pleasant minty elementsand soft, fruit-driven palate A very strong class of www.reschke.com.auwith nice acid backbone well-integrated fruit andand warm finish. $15 oak wines without the IN SEARCH OF PERFECTION!Bremerton Tamblyn dominance of green fruit HAVEN’T FOUND IT YET... BUTLanghorne Creek wines as in the past.Cabernet Shiraz Lots to choose from A LOT CLOSER THAN MOSTMalbec Merlot here and lots to like!2010 HHH1/2 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135Lovely, dark, cabernetfruit dominates the winebut there is some niceoak lurking beneath anddrying tannins. Time! $18

NEW RELEASESLeconfield Claymore Wines Holy Draytons Family Maximus Lavina Grand RoyaleCoonawarra Grail Clare Valley Wines Vineyard McLaren Vale McLaren ValeCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2010 HHHHH 2010 HHHH Sauvignon 2010 HHH 2010 HHHA lovely big, rich wine Minty lift to the 2011 HHH1/2 Big, pungent, smoky Sweet, barnyardythat’s a seamless predominantly mocha/ Nice varietal nose of herbs bouquet and nice savoury aromas and a bigmarriage between some licorice aromas with and black fruits. Austere palate with its vibrant mouthful of flavour withreally great oak and similar characters but well-balanced palate flavour profile. $24.99 strong, tannic grip. $120some excellent cabernet mingling with layered with clean, cabernet fruit Normans Encounter James Oatley Tic Tokfruit. Grassy notes on cassis fruit on the flavours. $30 Bay South Australia Western Australiathe nose and plenty of palate. A big wine. $20 Warner Glen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon“middle” on the palate. A.C Byrne & Margaret River 2010 HHH 2010 HHHHas depth and vibrancy. Co Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Vibrant red currant varietal Well integrated wine; Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 fruit, nice herbaceous plenty of leathery 5+ $33.50 2010 HHH1/2 A firm, austere, dry red edge, seamlessly characters on the noseTerra Mia Oak leads this wine but style with herbal fruit, integrated with the oak. and lean, balanced,McLaren Vale it has tight, ripe fruit powerful oak and grippy savoury palate. $17.99Cabernet Sauvignon underneath with nice tannins. Has plenty of 5+ $19.952010 HHHH1/2 chocolaty touches and length and flavour. $25 Clegget Wines Men CABERNETVery pleasant, ripe, drying tannins. $9.99 Burk Salter of Kent Langhorne SAUVIGNONberry jam aromas with South Australia Creek Cabernet 2009 & OLDERslight mintiness adding Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2010 HHHcomplexity. Soft in the 2010 HHH1/2 Tight, inky, young wine 17 TASTEDmouth with good length A full, soft, ripe and with closed nose and 12 AWARDEDof sweet, cassis fruit chocolaty wine with hot, savoury palate with Some good drinkingflavours and lovely acid almost an herbal-like drying finish. $20 opportunities in thisvibrancy. $16 element. Very good Shingleback group but consumers flavour length. $16 The Davey Estate need to choose carefully. Richard Hamilton McLaren Vale Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon Oliver’s Taranga McLaren Vale 2010 HHH Vineyards DJ Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Lots of resinous oak McLaren Vale 2010 HHH1/2 on the nose with some Cabernet Sauvignon Big tannic wine with plums pushing through; 2009 HHHH1/2 powerful oak sitting similar palate. $24.95 The complex nose is on top of lovely Haselgrove Bella oaky, inky and tight and blackcurrant varietal Vigna Premium leads to a very generous fruit. Needs more time Selection McLaren and flavoursome, to really shine. $18.95 Vale Cabernet sweet fruit palate that’s Kirrihill Sauvignon 2010 HHH warming in the mouth Tullymore Vineyard A very oaky wine but with appropriate level of Clare Valley there’s some pleasant oak tannins. $50 Cabernet Sauvignon minty, cassis, varietal 2010 HHH1/2 fruit underneath. $25 Another big tannic style Taylors Jaraman with great depth and Clare Valley concentration of ripe Coonawarra Cabernet sweet berry fruit and Sauvignon 2010 HHH strong oak presence. $20 Attractive aromas of berry Robert Oatley fruits layered with oak. Signature Lovely sweet, fruit palate Margaret River - simple but nice. $29.50 Cabernet Sauvignon Bowen Estate 2010 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Cabernet A well-made, tight, Sauvignon 2010 HHH youthful wine with Black and red berry-like lovely varietal fruit varietal fruit, tarry oak quite evident. Big and and a touch of age flavoursome with good developing. Enjoyable tannic grip. $23.99 drinking. $29.75 Sittella Berns Reserve Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH Subdued dusty nose and palate full of spearmint fruit - sweet but firm with warming finish. $38136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingGrant Burge Taltarni Estate A‘Shadrach Barossa Pyrenees VictoriaCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon r2008 HHHH 2009 HHH lAn excellent blockbuster Closed and inky with eof a wine with a classic medium fruit intensity qcabernet nose of spices and well-integrated oak. uand red berries. Good Dry finish. $40 iflavour intensity - lots of Dowie Doole nsweet fruit. A keeper. McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon WINES WITH CHARACTER 5+ $79.95 2009 HHH A soft, warm, oak-driven, e colour & character commercial style with some pleasant cassis of wines from the nest fruit lurking beneath. $22 regions in South Australia. Raidis Estate WWW.ARLEQUINWINES.COM.AU Billy Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Fruit-driven style - good varietal definition with subtle use of oak and some savoury notes. $23 Tilly Devine Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH A ripe and powerful, jammy cabernet with marked acidity and grippy tannins. $28Normans Rojomama Red ArtChais Clarendon Barossa CabernetMcLaren Vale Sauvignon 2005 HHHCabernet Sauvignon A beautifully aged wine,2009 HHHH drinking well now orLighter, greener, berry has another 3-5 years ofaromas with lovely subtle cellaring in it. $36oak influence. Well- Normans Old Vinestructured palate with South Australiaclassic cabernet fruit and Cabernet Sauvignonsome silky tannins. $45.95 2009 HHH A huge, soft wine, ripeFermoy and rich with layers ofMargaret River flavours and a slightlyCabernet Sauvignon drying finish. $29.952009 HHH1/2 Elderton AshmeadLots of dark fruit - good Single Vineyardvarietal definition with Barossa Cabernetappropriate use of oak and Sauvignon 2009 HHHpowdery tannins. One for Developed red fruitthe cellar. 5+ $30 nose and soft, velvety palate with great flavourMaxwell Lime profile. $100Cave McLaren ValeCabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH1/2Smells like a basket offreshly picked berrieswith a very drying, inkypalate. A big wine with abig finish. $40 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

NEW RELEASES SHIRAZ BLENDS138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 14 TASTED 8 AWARDED A solid group of red blends; some borderline wines but the better ones showing well-integrated, varietal fruit and oak flavours. “The use of other varieties introduces more savoury notes,” commented one judge. St John’s Road Workhorse Barossa Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH A big, chocolaty wine with savoury aromas showing herbal elements and lovely intensity of well-balanced fruit/ oak flavours. A keeper. 5+ $30 Lavina Gold Series Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2010 HHHH Some lovely traditional varietal fruit characters balanced by some good oak, plenty of drying tannins and wrapped in crisp acidity. $25 Appelation Wine Company Arlequin Reserve Eden Valley Shiraz Viognier 2009 HHHH Spicy shiraz fruit stands out here. Interesting aromas and a mouthful of big, sweet fruit and oak flavours with high level of acidity. $44

wine & spirit insider tastingGrant Burge Heritage Estate Cellar Door and Winery locatedThe Holy Trinity Shiraz 2011 HHH 22 kilometres from RobeBarossa Shiraz Intense and vibrant on the Robe Penola RoadGrenache Mourvedre jammy style with big, Open 11am to 4pm weekends2009 HHH1/2 savoury, Rhone-like and holidays or by appointmentA racy, savoury style with flavours. Still a baby. $25vibrant berry fruits, some T (08) 8735 7255 | F (08) 8735 7142wild herb elements, zippy Red Knot By Eacid and long, drying Shingleback McLarentannins. $36.95 Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH www.karattawines.com.auTaltarni Estate Intense, dusty, youngReserve Pyrenees wine with good Become our fan on FacebookVictoria Shiraz complexity of varietal fruit,Cabernet oak and tannins. $14.95 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 1392005 HHH1/2Well-aged, nicely Draytons Familyintegrated, wine that’s Wines Newstill going strong. Lots of Generation Hunteroak sitting on top of some Valley Shirazsweet berry fruits. $65 2011 HHHDraytons Family Spicy, fruit cake noseWines New and nice, chocolaty, dryGeneration Hunter red flavours with grainyValley Shiraz Merlot tannins. $152011 HHHA crowd pleaser - SHIRAZ 2010pleasant and youthfulwith nice balance 49 TASTEDbetween the fruit, acid 29 AWARDEDand oak. $15Meritus Vintage A very even standardMcLaren Vale Shiraz of good drinking redsGrenache 2010 HHH which all exhibit goodBig oaky style with consistency of flavourcaramel/marzipan and with very fewelements, warming faults overall.alcohol and some sweet,fruit characters. $25Grant BurgeAbednego BarossaShiraz GrenacheMourvedre 2009 HHHBroad, sweet, ripe fruitbouquet and soft, spicy,dry red palate with awarm finish. $61.95SHIRAZ 20117 TASTED4 AWARDEDA small class but it The Tudorshows there are some Central Victoriawines to look forward to Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2in the future from, what A big, peppery, coolwas, a difficult vintage. climate-style of shiraz with real Rhone-likeMojo By Rockbare characteristics. AmazingShiraz 2011 HHHH spicy lift to the nose andConcentrated, dark berry a complex and savouryfruit and spicy oak aromas palate that’s balancedwith a warm, spicy, fruit and warm. $12.99cake-like characters onthe palate and good tannicfinish. $19.95

NEW RELEASES G. Patritti & Co JPB Single Vineyard140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Shiraz 2010 HHHH A big, rich, oak-driven wine - quite tannic but has some powerful, stalky, berry fruit characters underneath. Good cellaring potential. 3-5 $45 Richard Hamilton Lavina Gold Series McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 A big, balanced wine sitting at the savoury end of the spectrum. Brooding licorice nose and solid concentration of fruit cake-like varietal flavours with good level of grainy tannins. $18.95 Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHHH Lovely, young, spicy, dark berry and plum varietal fruit well-matched by attractive chocolaty/ mocha oak. Warming on the finish. One for the cellar. 5+ $25 Mr Riggs McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH A well-made wine - tight and high in acid with lovely raspberry aromas and vibrant, fruit palate. Good level of oak and tannins. A keeper. 5+ $50 Fox Gordon Eight Penny’s Hill Footprint Uncles Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH Sweet, spicy aromas Fabulous varietal fruit with a touch of here and showing a big, licorice and lovely, eucalypt lift with plenty soft, balanced and of drying, spicy oak complex palate with and chewy tannins to great sweetness of match. $65 red and green varietal fruit characters. Drying tannins. $19.95

Fine wine deserves a precious setting.Shingleback ‘The Davey Estate’ is located in the acclaimed McLaren Vale wine region in South Australia. This single vineyard estate is the precious setting that produces the award winning ‘The Davey Estate’ Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

NEW RELEASES Seppeltsfield Terra Mia Haselgrove Über Barossa Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Bella Vigna 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Premium Selection Dense concentration of An austere wine with McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit and oak aromas. loads of oak, some plum 2010 HHH Very tannic in the mouth fruit and high level of acid. Sweet and spicy oak with solid, unyielding A keeper. 3-5 $16 nose with fruit cake-like flavours - needs to be flavours and a warm, put away for at least 5 Ballast Stone alcohol/acid finish. $25 years. $149 McLaren Vale Shiraz Linfield Road 2010 HHH The Stubborn Soft, ”moody” oak nose Patriarch Barossa spiked with jammy fruit. Shiraz 2010 HHH Fruit cake flavours; Restrained aromas - excellent chewy some tarry notes. Tight, tannins. $17 chewy, plum palate with dash of pepper. $25 Blackstone Maxwell K.I Paddock Barossa Kangaroo Island Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH Crimson hues, dusty, Attractive quaffer with spicy plum aromas and pleasant, sweet, varietal excellent concentration fruit and nice level of of ripe, berry fruit drying oak tannins. $25 flavours. $19.99 Meritus Vintage McLaren Vale Shiraz Chateau Tanunda 2010 HHH Grand Barossa Leathery oak aromas Shiraz 2010 HHH and vibrant raisined fruit Solid, savoury, stewed flavours lifted by drying fruit aromas and oak tannins. $25 flavours. Warm and soft in the mouth with tannic finish. $20 Growers Gate South Claymore Wines Fox Creek Short Australia Shiraz Walk on the Wild Row McLaren Vale 2010 HHH1/2 Side Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH A classic, leafy style of Shiraz 2010 HHH A tight, inky wine with shiraz with just a gentle Lifted, spirity, fruit cake tarry oak characters. hint of oak, showing of a nose. Good varietal Good concentration of plenty of acidity and nice flavour concentration blueberry fruit and grainy chewy tannins. $11.95 with drying tannins. $20 tannins. $28.50 Epsilon Barossa Blackbilly Laurance of Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Margaret River A real fruit bomb with 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH lovely blackberry and Pleasant spicy tarry Very minty, peppery molasses aromas and aromas and weighty bouquet with plenty of powerful concentration of chocolaty palate. Good pepper and spice on sweet, plum flavours. $20 acid level. $22 the palate. Very Rhone- like. $30 Clayfield Wines Robert Oatley La Curio Reserve Massif Grampians Signature McLaren McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH Dusty, savoury nose 2010 HHH Solid, smoky oak with a dash of pepper Complex wine smelling nose with fruity lift and spice, and a lean, of blackberries. Warm and good depth and savoury palate with red fruits fill the mouth concentration of sweet, good flavour intensity. with flavour. $23.99 plum flavours. $31 Warm finish. $30 Claymore Wines Heathcote Winery A.C Byrne & Co Dark Side of the Mail Coach McLaren Vale Shiraz Moon Clare Valley Heathcote Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH 2010 HHH A big, warm, sweet, Seamless integration Spicy aromas with hints tarry wine with attractive of sweet nectarine fruit of mint and a floral lift. chocolaty, spicy fruit and and chocolaty oak, with Lovely grainy tannins on vanillin oak notes. $9.99 nice licorice notes. $25 savoury palate. $33142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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NEW RELEASES Dowie Doole Cali Road Shiraz144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 2010 HHH A sweet and warm oak driven style of shiraz. A flavoursome crowd pleaser. $35 SHIRAZ 2009 & OLDER 34 TASTED 23 AWARDED A very solid group of ripe flavoursome wines. Quite a dependable group for those who want value for money. Thomas K. Hardy Wines Family Tradition Shiraz 2009 HHHH The nose exhibits lovely cashew-like oak aromas over youthful, licoricey fruit and has a thick, dense and almost vintage port-like palate. $19.90 Rockbare Barossa Babe Shiraz 2008 HHHH “Lots to like here,” enthused one judge. Almost porty on the nose; good peppery elements. Loads of spicy plum flavours with vanillin oak. $39.95 Claymore Wines Bethany LE Barossa Nirvana Reserve Shiraz 2008 HHHH Clare Valley Shiraz A shiraz with lovely 2009 HHHH1/2 concentration and Very impressive wine complexity of soft, with loads of sweet, sweet, varietal fruit rich, varietal fruits of matched by some blackberries and plums, well-handled oak. “Still and perfectly supported traveling well.” $48 by soft coffee/chocolate Heathcote II HD oak and some spicy, Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 tarry elements. $40 Tarry characters mix Maxwell Ellen Street with dense, sweet fruit McLaren Vale Shiraz and drying oak on both 2009 HHHH the nose and palate. Dense, sweet, oaky nose Drying grainy tannins. with a spicy lift and nice sweetness on the palate 5+ $89 with powerful stewed fruit characters and drying oak finish. $40



NEW RELEASESGood Drop Lavina Fermoy Brown Brothers Cosham BickleyFlood Relief Shiraz The Aurum Release Margaret River Patricia Shiraz Valley Shiraz2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH 2008 HHH 2007 HHHA popular style with 2009 HHH1/2 Sweet red fruits, some Smoky, oaky nose and Leathery aromas withspicy, sweet, choc- Ripe aromas of raisined plums and good level of warm, sweet, fruit palate similar characters on themint aromas and nice fruit with a dense, dusty, tobacco leaf-like with good backbone of palate and still showingconcentration of spicy mouthful of varietal oak. $30 acid and oak. $54.90 some sweet fruit. $25ripe fruit on a warm, soft flavours, strong oak Tilly Devinepalate. $25 and warming alcohol. Shiraz 2009 HHH Atze’s Corner EddiesNormans Ripe, jammy aromas Old Vine BarossaChais Clarendon 3-5 $50 with leathery edges Shiraz 2006 HHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz Rojomama and similar characters Ageing well with plenty2009 HHH1/2 Red Art Barossa echoed on the spicy of life left in it. GoodSpicy, dark fruit nose Shiraz 2005 HHH1/2 palate. $35 concentration of darkwith nice nutty oak and Attractive, tarry, spicy James Haselgrove berry fruit and spicya vibrant fruit palate with elements mingle Futures Shiraz oak. $55lovely floral, spice and with dark plum fruits, McLaren Vale Shirazlicorice elements. $45.95 chocolaty oak, grainy 2009 HHH SWEET WHITE tannins and warming An oaky, crowd pleaser & FORTIFIED alcohol. $36 with sweet varietal fruit Normans Old Vine of plums and prunes. 6 TASTED South Eastern Young and pure. $40 3 AWARDED Australia Shiraz Lavina Grand Royale 2009 HHH McLaren Vale Moscato is the appealing Seamless integration Shiraz 2009 HHH variety for newcomers of sweet, ripe, raisined A big, ripe, sweet - or the sweet tooths. fruit and tarry oak with a wine that’s warm and A couple of worthies drying finish. $9.95 flavoursome with lots of here along with a lovely Mad Fish Western soft tannins. $120 liqueur verdelho. Australia Shiraz Allegory Western 2009 HHH Australia Shiraz Sittella Margaret A tight, firm wine - good 2008 HHH River Liqueur structure and nice mix Nicely ageing wine and Verdelho NV of sweet and savoury yet is still quite youthful (375ml) HHHH characters. $17 with soft, silky, smooth Nutty, fruit cake-like Oliver’s Taranga flavours. $18 aromas and a rich and Vineyards Heathcote II Shiraz luscious, aged liqueur, McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH fruit palate with good 2009 HHH Big, ripe, sweet and acid backbone and a A simple, fruit-driven chocolaty with drying warming finish. $45 wine with subtle tannins and oaky finish. oak, ripe tannins and Developing nicely. $39 Omni Blue warming alcohol. $29 Moscato NV HHH Elegant nose with subtle, confectionery fruit and clean, sweet, flavour profile. $7.99 STAR RATINGS  Prosperitas Reserve All Saints Estate Moscato 2011 HHHThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Lolly-like muscat fruit onexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. nose and flavoursomeAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry palate showing someprofessionals and are compared in peer complexity. $18classes by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Shiraz 2006 HHHa major mail-order business. Excellent depth andCD Cellar door price. vibrancy of retainedCDO Cellar door only. varietal fruit and dryingSO Sold out. oak finish. More life$N/A Price not available at time of printing. ahead. 5+ $99 Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Armagnacs Domained’Espérance www.esperance.fr L’abus d’aLcooL est dangereux pour La santé. consommez avec modération - photo : michel carossio Mauvezin d’Armagnac, Francepub delord:Mise en page 1 22/04/11 14:02 Page 1Depuis 1893Visite de chais « Where no French ventures, the Gascon goes. » Dégustation Armagnac de Montal - The spirit of ArmagnacVente directe Vintages from nowadays till 1893 Lannepax (32) Armagnac de Montal 05 62 06 36 07 Compagnie des Produits de Gascognewww.armagnacdelord.com Route d’Aire sur Adour 32110 NOGARO (France) www.de-montal.com

TOP 40Cumulus Wines Rolling Cooks Lot Orange Murdoch James Normans Holbrooks RoadSparkling Pinot Grigio Pinot Gris 2011 Blue Rock Martinborough South Eastern AustraliaChardonnay 2011 A good food wine with slight Pinot Gris 2010 Pinot Gris 2011Fresh and pleasant strawberry honeyed pear bouquet. Goodaromas with mouthfilling citrus varietal characters on the Still very fresh, with apple, True gris style with broadflavours and a crisp finish. $18 palate with excellent acid. $20 spicy flavours, maturing pear aromas and long, gracefully. Finely balanced, flavoursome palate. ShouldCumulus Wines Cooks Lot Wines slightly minerally wine that improve with a couple of(02) 8977 2800 (02) 9550 3228 lingers well. $25 (NZD) years in the bottle. [email protected] [email protected] www.cookslot.com.au Murdoch James Estate Normans Wine Company +64 6 306 9165 (08) 8524 5030 [email protected] [email protected] www.murdoch-james.co.nz www.normanswines.comBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0D&ER Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY$25 NZD Some wines may - if they are still available - remain& UNDER in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.148 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Barristers Block Adelaide Deep Woods Estate Gapsted Ballerina Haha MarlboroughHills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Margaret River Canopy King Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2011 A ‘steal’. From Hawke’s Bay-Estery floral bouquet with based Fern Ridge Wines, thisfleshy, vibrant, fruit flavours Delicate, light and fresh Strong, herbaceous aromas wine was grown at five siteswith a candy-like edge. $20 sauvignon blanc with a lovely and very powerful flavours in the Wairau Valley. Weighty, balance and definition of snow in the herbal spectrum. $19 it has ripe, passionfruit/limeBarristers Block pea and green capsicum flavours, fresh, crisp and dry,/Celad’or Estate Vineyards aromas and flavours. $20 Victorian Alps Winery a minerally streak and a long(08) 8388 1988 /Gapsted Wines finish. $16 (NZD)[email protected] Deep Woods (03) 5751 1992www.barristersblock.com.au (08) 9282 5480 [email protected] Fern Ridge Wines [email protected] www.victorianalpswinery.com.au +64 6 834 3888 www.deepwoods.com.au [email protected] www.fernridge.co.nz Greystone Wines The W ine & Spirit INS1I3D/03E/1R2 1:59 P1M49 WAIPARA VALLEY CHRISTCHURCH • NEW ZEALANDGreystone winestate ad quarter page outlines 09-03-2012.indd 1

TOP 40Longview Whippet Waimea Nelson Celestial Bay Margaret Churchview EstateAdelaide Hills Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 River Semillon Sauvignon Silverleaf Margaret RiverBlanc 2011 Fresh and lively, with good Blanc 2011 Chardonnay 2011Zippy fresh, varietally weight and very satisfying Smells of ripe green apples Sweet fig bouquet; somecorrect wine with sherbety- depth of ripe melon, nectarine with a smattering of melons. green notes and more of thelike characters and and lime flavours. $20 (NZD) Similar palate - nice, clean fig-like characters on the palate.subtle, tropical fruits. $18 lines. $20 Good wood, tight acid. $13 Waimea EstatesLongview Vineyard +64 3 544 6385 Celestial Bay Wines Pty Ltd Churchview Estate(08) 8388 9694 [email protected] (08) 9450 4191 (08) 9755 [email protected] www.waimeaestates.co.nz [email protected] [email protected] www.celestialbay.com.au www.churchview.com.au150 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER