Winestate Magazine May June 2012

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELThe latter half of 2011 and the beginning London Club creators, Stuart and of fillings. All patisserie and cakes areof 2012 saw the number of new Brisbane Louise Price opened French Martini made in-house giving the sweet section arestaurants soar with almost daily openings recently, also at South Bank, bringing a warm, homely feel and aromas of vanilla,around Christmas and a steady flow into rustic blend of old school Corsican food cinnamon and toffee.the new year. The South Bank precinct with Parisian classics like warm goatscaught our attention over that time with cheese salad and moules marinaire. The The theme here is abundance and thatseveral new doors opening, most notably decor is vintage Parisian with billowy is exactly what you get especially atthe Brisbane version of Melbourne icon, curtains and buttons banquettes decked lunchtime when the glass cabinets literallyStokehouse and neighbouring Cove, out in bordello rouge. Prices are keen groan with scrumptious sandwiches,Popolo and The Jetty. Popolo, a second and the menu is as clipped as the wine made on organic sourdough or crunchyrestaurant for Andrew Bataro, who also list. Shop 6c/180 Grey St, South Bank; baguette, interesting (finally in theowns Libertine, is a “rustic” Italian offering phone (07) 3844 5541. CBD) salads that rotate for regulars,a menu designed to share but curiously antipasto and charcuterie plates andno pasta except a single gnocchi. Ex The big-ticket opening this year, however, a range of hot sandwiches like pulledpartner and owner of Peasant, Jamie Web, is Spring. “Springing” to life (forgive me) pork chipotle with guacamole and salsa,brought us Cabiria Luncheonette, which just before Christmas as a casual cafe, house-made falafel, yoghurt and tomatoharks back to a bygone era with a menu much of the venue remained unveiled while wrap, and a classic Reuben. There isof classics like chicken liver pate, egg and work on the bistro and cooking school also a bistro menu of classics madeanchovy finger sandwiches and a variety was completed. Wrought iron gates and from thoughtfully sourced produce and aof charcuterie. a dramatic facade that incorporates the calendar of regular events like producerBurnett Lane, in the CBD, has also sprung gorgeous logo encase the interior, which and fisherman's dinners, ethnic lunchesto life with two new bars opening in February is softened by a garden of standard and great wine events. Spring is also a- Super Whatnot and Survey &Co - both mulberries and box hedges. Oak floors retail comestible and wine store operatingthe beneficiaries of two recent pieces of and white panelled pitched ceilings with under a general license so you canlocal legislation - the so-called Laneways opposed beams, a dramatic marble bar, shop for the pantry and cellar before orproject and the new license available for white painted furniture and an indoor/ after you've eaten. As the name implies,small bars, something Brisbane has not outdoor banquette with crisp blue and seasonality is important here so you won'tseen before. Super Whatnot is a studied find Canadian scallops on the menublend of industrial chic and boutique white striped cushions, marble-topped when they are out of season. Probablybeveraging - offering a small, bite size tables and an eclectic array of chairs make it's most defining feature and certainlymenu of current fashion items like oxtail this an a vibrant and original space. the aspect that sets Spring apart fromtacos and sandwiches that have cooked all other CBD venues is the cookingthings in them. There are several great craft The Market Table, with its coffee window school. Set at the end of the space withbeers on offer over the two floors of the facing the busy corner sees a fast paced glass doors containing the noise but notspace that used to be a storage area for a queue every morning of office workers the action, classes are wide and variedbeauty school. 48 Burnett Lane, Brisbane; awaiting their blend of Melbourne roasted from quick, ethnic-themed, power classes(no phone). Survey Co is larger and with Niccolo coffee served in bright yellow like butter chicken taught, served with aSimon Livingstone of Piaf and Sardine takeaway cups. There’s also a clipped drink, eaten amid discussions of originsTin at the helm, things run smoothly. 32 but delicious breakfast menu that features and a plethora of helpful tips all withinBurnett Lane, Brisbane; (no phone). chermoula eggs, housemade organic a typical hour-long lunch break to full- granola and house baps with a variety blown, six-week courses that take you from novice to notable and everything in between. Local and national chefs visit regularly conducting specialty classes and the space is also in constant demand for corporate and team-building events as well as special occasion dinners and lunches with a fun, hands-on element. The website is comprehensive and constantly updates classes, events and happenings – spring.com.au. 26 Felix St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3229 0460. Left & right: Spring’s cooking school and bistro. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 51

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGThe streetscapes of Crows Nest have generous sprinkling of butternut pumpkin and crowd from Monday to Friday. But thenremained pickled in time, except for an soft-as, tangy cheese. Radjokovic says that value has always been a magnet at theeruption of casual eateries packed to the the strength of the Aussie dollar has allowed Burlington and it's paid off handsomely. Thegunwhales on most nights of the week. her to serve European wines by the glass at Burlington Bar and Dining, 6 Burlington St,Four years ago, Matthew Kemp and Lela local wine prices. We took her up on the offer Crows Nest; phone (02) 9439 7888.Radjokovic shook up the dining scene of and ordered two glasses of Santa Margharitathe Lower North shore business-cum-leisure pinot grigio from the Veneto priced at $8 Brass is also targeting the locals at Pottssuburb when they launched The Burlington each. Although the 2009 Prinz von Hessen Point. Like the Burlington, this newbie,Bar and Dining. Kemp's third attempt to set Riesling from the Rheingau, at only $9 a located in the former premises of the Yellowup a reasonably priced bistro following the glass, was a real temptation. Even when the Bistro and Food Store, offers an internationalstellar success of the Balzac at Randwick sent names of the dishes sound complex, the wine list that includes well-priced bottlingsout a siren call to Sydney's leading restaurant house cooking style at the Burlington keeps from France and Italy. Hardly surprisingcritics, who raced across the harbour bridge things very fresh and elegantly simple with when the chef is Darren Taylor, formerly ofto rave about the smartly edited menu and mains such as grilled Hiramasa kingfish with Buon Ricordo. The cocktails served at theglobe-trotting wine list. The Burlington is still sauteed asparagus, cos and broad beans bar are very Mad Men - Manhattans andpacking them in with its classic bistro decor and the 450g grain-fred striploin on the bone Old-Fashioneds - but the food is the sort ofand banquette seating. Kemp has moved (50 day-aged from the Riverina) served with bistro grub that's even better than you findon, but Radjokovic holds sway, as ever, as fries, redwine jus and Cafe de Paris butter in France from the minute steak with fries tothe restaurant hostess you are most likely to - a modern take on the old French classic. the crumbed pork cutlet and twice-cookedair-kiss even after a first visit. Jacqui Gowan, Desserts have always been a leading act gruyere souffle. Perfect for an after-workformerly the head chef at Subsolo and a not a sideshow at the Burlington starting meal. Brass Bistro and Bar, 57-59 Macleayregular guest on Channel 10's Ready Steady with Kemp's legendary Eton Mess and St, Potts Point; phone (02) 9357 3400.Cook, is now in charge of the kitchen. Also an the Burlington Splice, alternating layers ofalumni of the Darling Mills, in Glebe, and the pannacotta and mango jelly that continues to Upmarket diners are sprouting likeBather's Pavilion, at Balmoral, Gowan's wealth make the cut on the menu. When we looked mushrooms all over Sydney, but few cut theof expertise shows even in the home-made around, though, nearly all of the regulars gourmet mustard better than Bar H. Husband- and-wife team, Hamish and Rebeccabread rolls served to take the edge off your were ordering the affogato with vanilla bean Ingham, have done time at Billy Kwong,hunger as you peruse the menu. The same ice-cream, Nocello liqueur and a shot of Becasse and Pier so no further endorsement isFrench, Italian, Spanish and Brit overtones espresso. We followed suit and discovered needed. The sparkling refit has swept away allthat defined Kemp's cooking are still in why. A large glass filled two-thirds full with memories of the popular Wall Cafe that onceplace. The solicitous waiter recommended ice-cream arrived and you pour over the other dished out sandwiches and coffee from thethe crisp pork belly with waldorf salad. two ingredients for a hot/cold taste sensation address. The service and menu is far moreSimultaneously unctuous and resistant to the that is at once incredibly rich yet light. slick and it's a real pleasure to dig your knifebite, the flavour was intense. A brasserie-style and fork into expertly-cooked mains suchsalad of spinach, chilli roast pumpkin and If you don't want a full meal, a new bar in as spatchcock with radicchio and parsley,Woodside chevre caught my eye. But instead the front room serves up wines by the glass tommy ruff cooked in paper with fennel andof a bit of greenery that would only satisfy and a snappy nibbles menu which includes olives and 300g of grain-fed sirlon with organicthe appetite of a fashion model, out came a Wagyu sausage rolls and trout rillettes. chickpeas and spinach. Bar H, 80 Campbellhearty serving of English spinach and a very The $25 business lunch was re-instated in St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9280 1980. February and draws in the local corporate Above: The Burlington dining and salt cod cake.52 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNCricket followers know that playing with a wine for a fixed charge. GoGo’s is a curry; lean tender ribs swimming in astraight bat is essential in making a long must go. 556 Beaufort St, Mount Lawle; brilliant, subtly spiced, creamy unctuousand substantial innings. It’s obvious that phone (08) 9328 1828. sauce and then mop up the residue withGoGo Govardhan of GoGo’s Madras freshly prepared, well-cooked naan.Curry House in Mount Lawley, does just I’ve had steamed rice in restaurants We are walk-ins, it’s an impromptu,that in his restaurant. A cricket tragic, he that was so heavy, gluggy and glue- simple lunch but we are so impressednot only cooks for visiting national cricket like it was an effort to get a spoon in, we’ll be back for a comprehensive lookteams, including his beloved India, some has been like a cake with a thin, at the food. Licensed but BYO wine isbut for the Australian team as well. He crusty covering from being reheated allowed. 228 Carr Place, Leederville;doesn’t neglect his domestic customers more than a couple of times and then phone (08) 9228 1300.however, that’s why his business has there’s been the odd hard and coldbeen a monumental success since it undercooked stuff that can be damaging The Curry House is new in leafyopened over 12 years ago. His Mughlai to unsuspecting teeth. When it arrives Nedlands and has morphed from thelamb chops are internationally famous once-popular Greco’s. This westernafter Sachin Tendulkar invited him to at the table, steaming light and fluffy suburb deserves a good Indian curryIndia to cook them at a private party. in separate grains, you know the rest restaurant and this place opened someGoGo uses his discretion with spicing of the meal will be up to the mark. Rice months ago to the delight of manywhen he prepares them for the Aussie is a key indicator to me of quality in locals. I wonder how they feel now. Iteam. You can savour this wonderful an Asian diner. My mate in wine and I visit on a week night and am impressedlamb in inner-suburban Perth, along drop in to the Cinnamon Club, a smart by the alfresco area and the generalwith the equally fine Tandoori dishes of Indian diner in the busy Leederville feel of the place, but it’s on a trolleyyoghurt-marinated chicken and lamb precinct for a quick bite of lunch and and downhill from there. A bowl ofcooked in a traditional stone tandoor to appraise a couple of new bottles steamed rice arrives and it is stodgyoven along with the lightest and crispiest of vino. When a bowl of basmati rice and underwhelming as is the rest of thenaan bread you’ll see anywhere. GoGo’s arrives, I am very happy as it’s perfect meal. A Goan fish curry ($28) has hardfood has its own distinctive flavours and and so light and airy; it’s in danger of and crusty pieces of fish swimming inis gently spiced without being chilli or floating away. We ravish this with a goat thick, spicy gravy. The fish tastes as ifpeppery hot. He has a particular and it’s been defrosted and sitting aroundfervent love of Australian wine and he for a couple of days, and then cookedwould never allow his food to overpower and cooked again, as it’s firm and driedit. Although he has had less than a happy out. Fish in a curry should be treated likesummer of cricket with his team being fish in any dish; it must be of high qualityconvincingly belted by the Aussies and not be overcooked. This dish failsin the test series and a couple of his on both accounts. A prawn mango curryfavourite players are close to retirement, ($29) sounds great; it’s the right time ofhe is as ebullient as ever about the the year for mango as it’s at its best andfuture. GoGo’s is licensed, check out plentiful in summer. A bowl arrives withthe cricket memorabilia displayed a half dozen prawns submerged in currythere and discuss spicy food and wine sauce. There is no visible sign of mangowith the man himself. He accepts BYO nor is there the slightest aroma or taste of the delightful tropical fruit, the dish is overpriced and a huge disappointment. The two curries are served with heavy, gluggy Naan bread ($4.5), a poor excuse for the real thing, it has probably been reheated in a microwave and certainly not freshly cooked in a tandoor oven, as it should be. We skip desserts, not wishing further grief. The Curry House needs monumental changes in the kitchen for it to have repeat customers. It’s licensed. 161 Broadway, Nedlands; phone (08) 9389 8410. Above: Cinnamon Club Indian diner. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 53

winewords G R A E M E W O O DSKYE MURTAGHMANY will recognise Graeme Wood for What’s the most sparkling of which Yellowglen Vintage Perlehis cricketing achievements at the crease memorable bottle of wine is a favourite.and more recently in management, but you’ve ever consumed?the former Australian Test opener also I recently had the fortune How popular is wine within the Australianhas a long affiliation with the liquor to spend a weekend in cricketing world? Are there manyindustry. After almost five years at the Dunsborough as a guest budding wine connoisseurs amongs thehelm of the Western Australian Cricket of Nigel Satterley where current players at state & national level?Association (WACA), Wood departed Penfolds was the featured It certainly has changed significantly fromhis CEO role in mid-January, 2012, to brand at both a cocktail back in the ‘80s with players such as Stuartcommence with Treasury Wine Estates as function and a lunch on McGill and Adam Gilchrist very interestedstate sales manager for WA. Wood’s first the Saturday, and I shared in their wines. Dennis Lillee is an absoluteclass cricket career began in WA in 1977 a bottle of Penfolds Bin wine enthusiast and his wine knowledge isand spanned 14 seasons, during which 09A Reserve Chardonnay extremely good. I think the players have aWA took out the Sheffield Shield on no with my wife, Angela. It greater understanding of the wine categoryless than six occasions. His Test career was a unique experience now and certainly much more disposableincluded 59 Test matches and saw him as Peter Gago was also at income to invest in the right wine.play alongside such legends as Dennis the function on the FridayLillee, Rod Marsh, Jeff Thompson, Allan evening and provided all guests with a What’s your favourite wine accessoryBorder and Greg Chappell. Towards the running commentary of the wines on offer. and why?end of his first class career, Wood joined When I left the WACA earlier this year, ICarlton and United Breweries (later Complete this sentence – “A good wine was presented with four magnificent winethe Fosters Group) where he worked is like… “ glasses by the WA Branch of the Lord’sin sales and marketing over a 17-year ... a good book, there is a story emanating Taverners. I was overwhelmed with this giftperiod, including six years as general from each bottle. and make sure these glasses are utilisedmanager in WA. In 2007, he was lured to the max.back to the cricket world to head up the Where’s the most unusual place you’veWACA. While swapping the willow for ever consumed wine? How would you describe your ownwine last year wasn’t an easy decision, Penfolds Port - half time of a football match personal wine collection?the timing did seem right. Pleased with playing for East Fremantle. It was freezing I was a slow starter, but seem to be makingwhat the off field team had achieved cold and the coach thought a swig of portduring the time he spent at the WACA may assist. It actually did and we went onand confident about the on field outlook to win the match.for this season, he was happy to move onto a new challenge and is now relishing In your cricketing days there werehis role at Treasury Wine Estates. plenty of wins to celebrate. What did you reach for most often during theSince you were last working in the late ‘70s & ‘80s to mark a big victoryliquor industry, is the environment and what are you more likely to opentoday more testing? up these days?There’s no doubt the liquor industry is I must admit that back (then) I wasmore challenging for many reasons, predominantly a beer man and actuallywhether it be from the liquor regulators ended up working with CUB from 1989to increased market fragmentation through until 2007, hence the Crownto the dominance of the national Lagers would get a work out when we hadcustomers or the proliferation of brands a memorable win to celebrate. These daysand beverage categories. I definitely would celebrate with a bottle of54 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

ARTWINE Refreshingly Different Winestate Wine of the Yearup lost ground, I probably have 30 dozen Exotic Winesat the moment and I’m on the look-out for Vineyard Accommodationbargains to add to the collection. Adelaide Hills & Clare ValleyHow do you go about selecting your wine 61 (0)411 422 450stock for your own consumption and toshare with friends? [email protected] wife and I are more inclined to enjoy a www.artwine.com.augood quality chardonnay or riesling whereas the majority of my friends seem to leantowards cabernet sauvignon or shiraz.Currently, what’s the most coveted itemin your wine collection?There is a 1992 Henschke Hill of Grace anda couple of bottles of 1995 Penfolds Grange.How have your wine tastes personallychanged over the years and do you havea soft spot currently for any particularvariety or wine region?I have a soft spot for chardonnay and riesling:chardonnay from Devil’s Lair in MargaretRiver or Coldstream Hills in the Yarra Valleyand riesling from Eden Valley or Clare Valley.Can you recall your first wine encounter?I think everyone has a story about MateusRose, very untidy and took a while to returnto the category.What’s your favourite food and winecombination for a typical WA winter’sday – and where would it be enjoyed?Without a doubt, crayfish, oysters andprawns with a Devil’s Lair Chardonnay onthe back of Geoff Marsh’s boat in GeordieBay at Rottnest Island.What’s your favourite cellar door –anywhere in the world – and why?The Wise Winery in Dunsborough is hardto beat, the outlook over GeographeBay is breathtaking and simply a greatplace to have lunch with friends andtake in the view. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 55

bookwormsKARYN FOSTER + CHARLES GENT100 MUST-TRY NEW THE DROPS OF GOD UNCORKING THE PASTZEALAND WINES (VOLUME 1) By Patrick E McGovernBy Michael Cooper By Tadsahi Agi and Shu Okimoto Published by University of CaliforniaPublished by Hachette RRP $34.99 Published by Random House Australia Press RRP $29.95 RRP $19.95The redoubtable, moustachioed Michael Patrick E McGovern is an archaeologist andCooper has been New Zealand’s chief A manga – a Japanese strip-comic novel – biochemist who has made a professionalwine sage for more than 20 years, is a peculiar medium for wine appreciation, specialty of the early history of the alcoholicproducing an annual wine compendium but the vinous progress of a reluctant beverage, a quest he pursues withthat serves as the country’s standard connoisseur as he battles to claim his late infectious enthusiasm. His earlier book,reference guide. In his 100 Must-Try father’s stupendous cellar by competing to Ancient Wine, focused on the history ofNew Zealand Wines he distils his identify 13 unknown but superlative wines winemaking in its cradle, the Near East.encyclopedic knowledge to give us a has proved a popular hit in France and In Uncorking the Past, he enrols us on abreezy guide to what he considers to America, as well as in its native Japan and scholarly visit to almost every continent tobe NZ’s most obligatory drinking. A two- neighbouring Korea. This, the first volume of consider the evidence of the local originspronged approach puts a robust sample the Drops of God series, introduces Kanzaki of alcoholic beverages and the complex, ifof the most venerated wines alongside Shizuku, the wine-shy son of the great critic, surprisingly similar, roles alcohol has playedthe best of the value-for-money brigade. and his sneering wine snob opponent Issei in vastly different civilisations and cultures.As you would expect, the selection Tomine. Each chapter explores a famous Scholarly is not to say dull; his prose isis eruditely chosen and informatively wine in a way that blends technical fact with clear, lively and largely free of jargon,described. There is a good rundown of rapturously poetic metaphors, and along and the book is filled with unexpectedthe great Kiwi pinot noirs and Cooper the way we are introduced to legendary facts, surprising insights and fascinatingalso points us towards the fund of pinot figures of Burgundian winemaking as well conjecture. McGovern was instrumental ingris, riesling and chardonnay we could as the benefits of decanting and the crucial identifying a Neolithic “grog” – most likely aand should be seeking out rather than significance of terroir. Plot-wise it’s typical mixture of grape or berry wine, honey meadtwisting the lid off yet another anodyne melodramatic manga fare with plenty of teeth- and rice beer – from residues in pots foundsauvignon blanc. grinding confrontations as well as romantic at a dig in north-central China, which has sub-plots, but the wine theme remains a fair claim to be the most ancient use of front and centre. The series exerts a major wine yet discovered. We see both the hard- influence on wine sales in Asia and won an nosed scientist at work with his molecular award from one of France’s stodgiest wine analysis and the trained archaeologist journals. Publication in Japan is continuing – piecing together theories to explain the the most recent score in the quest is four-all transmission of alcohol-related technology – and a second volume of the English version and culture; endearingly, we also get to was recently published. Just remember: you share his obvious excitement at joining the need to start at the back, and follow the action attempts to make modern recreations of and dialogue from right to left. these weird and ancient drinks.56 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means 5 international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, weWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more will have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 57

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2003 $210 1993 $90 1996 $460  2000 $110  1987 $350 2000 $80  WINES 2004 $350 1994 $100 1997 $320  2001 $120 1988 $350 2001 $85 2005 $260  1995 $85 1998 $420 2002 $85  1989 $360 2002 $110  BASS PHILLIP 2006 $250 1996 $130 1999 $380 2003 $85  1990 $580 2003 $100 Premium Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2001 $360 2004 $80  1991 $480 2004 $95 1998 $125 2002 $440 2005 $90 1992 $380 2005 $95 1990 $75  CLONAKILLA 1999 $110 2004 $380 2006 $65 1993 $350  2006 $95 1991 $90  Shiraz Viognier 2000 $110 2005 $350 2007 $75 1994 $380  2007 $80 1992 $95  1990 $65 2001 $110 2006 $310 2008 $85 1995 $360 2008 $95 1993 $80  1993 $65 2002 $140 1996 $500 2009 $75 1994 $110  1994 $85 2004 $190 1997 $360 1995 $80  1995 $65 2005 $120 1998 $580 THREE RIVERS 1996 $110 1996 $100 2006 $120 1999 $400 1997 $140  1997 $130 2007 Not Released 2000 $420 Chris Ringland 1998 $110 1998 $150 2008 $140 2001 $370 Shiraz 1999 $110  1999 $55 2002 $450 1990 $520  2000 $110 2000 $90 Meshach Armagh Shiraz Quintet 2003 $400 1991 $650  2001 $180 2001 $130 1990 $80  1990 $200  1990 $180  2004 $460 2002 $145 2002 $130 1991 $85 1991 $180 1991 $100  2005 $420 1992 $550  2003 $110 2003 $100  1992 $80 1992 $90  2006 $500 1993 $650 2004 $110 2004 $100  1993 $70  1992 $120 1993 $80  1994 $650 2005 $80 2005 $110  1994 $90 1993 $110 1994 $90  2007 $120 2006 $100 1995 $65  1994 $130 1995 $100 1995 $450 2008 $80 2007 $150 1996 $95  1996 $120  1996 $710 2009 $85  2008 $90 1997 Not Released 1995 $130 1997 $110 1997 Not Released 2009 $95  1998 $110  1996 $160 1998 $160  1999 $85 1997 $150 1999 $100 1998 $850 2000 $70 2000 $120  1999 $600 2001 $110 1998 $220 2001 $110  2000 $450 2002 $95 1999 $130 2002 $110 2003 $55  2000 $120 2003 $90  Bin 707 2001 $850 2004 $70  2004 $110 1980 $160 2002 $800 BINDI 2005 $65  2001 $140 2005 $110 1981 Not Released 2003 $500 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2002 $190  2006 $110 1982 $150 1997 $80 GREENOCK 2004 $140 2007 $70 1983 $150 1998 $95 CREEK 2005 $120 2008 $95 1984 $180 1999 Not Released 2006 $140 1985 $170 2000 $150 Cabernet Merlot Roennfeldt Rd 2007 $95 1986 $210 2001 $120 1990 $95 Shiraz 1987 $170  2002 $110 1991 $100 1988 $160 Shiraz 2003 $85 1992 $80 1995 $280  1989 $180 1990 $145 2004 $110  1993 $70  1996 $260  1990 $240  1991 $130 2005 $120 1994 $80  1997 $160  1991 $220  1992 $80 2006 $90  1995 $85  1998 $350 1992 $190  1993 $90 2007 $110 1996 $100 1999 $180 1993 $180 1994 $120  2008 $110 1997 $90 2000 $220 1994 $180 1995 $95 2009 $90 1998 $85  2001 $240 Chardonnay Bin 95 Grange 1995 Not Released 1996 $160  2010 $95 1999 $95 2002 $320 Art Series 1951 $45,000 1996 $210 1997 $70  2000 $85 2003 $200 1952 $17,000 1997 $180 1998 $140  Graveyard Shiraz 2001 $80 2004 $210  1990 $60 1953 $14,000 1998 $280  1999 $80 1990 $90 2002 Not Released 2005 $250 1991 $60 1954 $10,000 1999 $190 2000 $70  1991 $95  2003 $75 1992 $70  1955 $3,200 2000 Not Released 2001 $95 1992 Not Released 2004 $70 Hill of Grace 1993 $65 1956 $13,000 2001 $190 2002 $150  1993 $75 1980 $250 1994 $85 1957 $12,000  2002 $180 2003 $80 1994 $80 1981 $230 1995 $95  1958 $4,100  2003 Not Released 2004 $120 1995 $70 1982 $220 1996 $65 1959 $2,000 2004 $190 2005 $130 1996 $95 1983 $220 1997 $90  1960 $1,500  2005 $180 2006 $130 1997 $75 1984 $210 1998 $70 1961 $1,600 2006 $180 2008 $100 1998 $110 1985 $250 1999 $75 1962 $1,600 2007 $160 1999 $90 Command Shiraz 1986 $340 2000 $75 1963 $1,000  2008 $190 Para Liqueur 2000 $95 1990 $120 1987 $210 2001 $80 1964 $1,000 1878 $1,200  2001 $80 1991 Not Released 1988 $310 2002 $75 1965 $550  1879 $1,200 2002 $75 1992 $100 1989 $240 2003 $80  1966 $700  Bin 60A 1880 $800 2003 $80 1993 $65 1990 $460 2004 $90  1967 $700 1962 $4,000 1881 $800 2004 $80 1994 $95 1991 $400 2005 $75 1968 $550 2004 $460 1882 $1,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1992 $270  2006 $70 1969 $550 1887 $800 2006 $100 1996 $95 1993 $280  2007 $85 1970 $400 Basket Press 1893 $1,000 2007 $90 1997 $80 1994 $340 1971 $780 Shiraz 1899 $1,000CLARENDON HILLS 1998 $90 1995 $300  MOSS WOOD 1972 $400 1901 $650 1999 $60 Cab Sauv 1973 $400 1990 $150 1908 $550 Astralis Shiraz 2000 $65 1974 $400 1991 $140 1910 $500 1994 $200  2001 $65 1990 $130 1975 $400 1992 $95 1922 $350  1995 $200 2002 $80  1991 $150  1976 $580 1993 $75 1925 $600  1996 $300 2003 $60  1992 $120 1977 $400 1994 $90 1927 $280 1997 $200  2004 $70 1993 $100 1978 $400 1995 $65 1930 $120  1998 $260  2005 $65 1994 $100 1979 $380 1996 $140 1933 $110  1999 $260 2006 $65 1995 $100  1980 $360 1997 $95 1939 $80  2000 $270 1996 $100  1981 $390 1998 $190 1944 $70  2001 $290 1997 $100 1982 $370 1999 $95 1947 $55  2002 $330 GIACONDA 1998 $150 1983 $410 Chardonnay 1999 $110  1984 $360 1990 $110 1985 $400 1991 $60  1986 $550 1992 $8558 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

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wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts a rare bottle of 1954 Seppelt Great Western Sparkling Burgundy (Shiraz) reaching $486.LANGTON’S WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS A bottle of ‘59 Wynns Coonawarra EstateAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (FIRST QUARTER INTERIM Claret also exceeded expectations, setting aWeekly Wine Auctions MARKET REPORT) new price record of $575. (held on Wednesdays) The year got off to a strong start withMelbourne: April 25-May 2 the auction market gaining significant Although the market for aged white winesSydney: May 2-9 momentum in the first quarter of 2012. is comparatively tiny, a couple of agedMelbourne: May 9-16 Although January is typically a quieter month rieslings from key vintages fetched healthySydney: May 16-23 with many people away on summer holidays, prices, with 1979 Pewsey Vale Riesling andMelbourne: May 23-30 an influx of rare Australian and blue-chip ‘73 Leo Buring DWC 17 Show ReserveSydney: May 30-June 6 wine brought out buyer enthusiasm. While Riesling (both Eden Valley) achieving $117Melbourne: June 6-13 individual buyer participation remained stable, and $173.65 respectively. Good bottles ofSydney: June 13-20 a combination of fresh looking catalogues and these classic wines are still drinking veryMelbourne: June 20-27 realistic vendor reserves helped boost sales well and remain considerably undervalued volume and drive up clearance rates. Eager compared to their European counterparts.Stock entry cut-off is 10 days prior buyers snapped up a range of Australian rarities and top vintages of classified wine, The strong demand for classified wineSTERLING WINE AUCTIONS & demonstrating a renewed confidence in the also underpinned auction results in the firstEXCHANGE Australian secondary market. two months of the quarter. EnthusiasticApril 27-May 9 buyers sought top vintages, particularly 2002,(consignment deadline: April 23) Interest in older and classic vintages of many of which at 10 years of age, are now Australian wine continues to gather pace. A approaching their optimum drinking window.ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS number of these rare iconic wines went under A new price record of $862 was set by a bottlePremium & Budget Auctions the hammer in January and February with of 2002 Three Rivers Chris Ringland Shiraz.May 1 spectacular results. A high note was a bottle Strong prices were also realised for 2002 Jim of 1963 Mildara Peppermint Patty Cabernet Barry The Armagh Shiraz ($218) and a bottle ofGRAYSONLINE Sauvignon, Coonawarra achieving a record 1976 Wendouree Shiraz ($323.15). HenschkeDaily wine auctions (featuring a range price of $1009. Scarcity is driving prices up Hill of Grace also continued its ascendancyof red and white wines and regional for these rarities as collectors increasingly with the stellar ‘06 vintage achieving $385. Asand country-specific sales). recognise these wines as precious, tangible these results demonstrate, classified wines pieces of Australia’s vinous history. Other with a strong regional identity, establishedCRACKA WINES highlights included the iconic 1961 Lindemans track-record at auction and excellent cellaringLive wine auctions every day Bin 1970 (Burgundy) Shiraz fetching $335 and potential continue to be the mainstay of theat 1pm and 8pm on weekdays and secondary market.8pm on weekends. Cult wines, which for many years formed an(All dates are subject to change, important element of the auction market, arewithout notice) no longer in vogue. Numerous factors have contributed to the demise of this scene; with changes in fashion, the waning influence of Robert Parker and a high Australian dollar all playing a part. Although the cult wine scene in Australia has gradually faded away, a few super-premium releases from top producers continue to garner attention, like 2005 Torbreck The Laird Shiraz, which recently achieved $621 at auction. The performance of Penfolds Grange in January and February remained steady. Robust demand for top vintages continues to attract strongbiddingvolumeandvigorouscompetition. A high note was the sale of a rare 1956 Penfolds Bin 53 Grange for $13,915. A ’62 Grange also achieved $1661. The market for Grange magnums strengthened, with many vendor reserves coming into line with the current market. Highlights included a 1990 Penfolds Grange attaining $1495 and a magnum of 2006 fetching $1380.60 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

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wine investment & collectingThe next series of Grange clinics will take Right Bank wines as evidenced by a bottle number of consumers bidding on wines thatplace later in the year, giving collectors of 1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1er Grand lack significant pedigree. That is, bidders area chance to have their bottles assessed Cru Classe A St Emilion attaining $1163 and becoming more comfortable with buyingand authenticated. While all bottles that a 2000 Chateau Ausone recording $2530. stocks from less well-known brands havingpass clinic provide prospective buyers become comfortable with the level of winewith additional confidence, listings of mint For more information visit www.langtons. quality in the offerings from Cracka. Also therecondition Grange and those from sought com.au. All prices above are per bottle, is increasing patronage of vintage wines withafter years can attract a significant premium. include Buyer’s Premium and are in $A. older vintages growing in popularity. This is seeing a greater range of vendors use the Sales of other iconic Penfolds wines also CRACKA WINES auction market as a channel to move currentperformed very well. A 1966 Penfolds Bin 65 (MARCH 2012 REPORT, and past vintage stocks.Show Sparkling Burgundy fetched $174, and BY ANGUS HUGHSON)a bottle of the sought after 2008 Penfolds Despite difficult trading conditions in the Growing on our last report, we’re seeingBin 620 attained $1260. Penfolds 707 also Australian wine market, Cracka Wines’ fantastic results with products fromenjoyed strong results with a magnum of ‘83 revolutionary reverse auction system emerging fine wine regions. While winesand a magnum of ‘86 achieving $356.50 and continues to gain traction as a retail option for such as the Wise Pemberton Chardonnay$458.85 respectively. wine buyers to secure quality wines across and Fonty’s Pool Pemberton Pinot Noir a broad spectrum of varieties and prices. have been popular, the last two months in The interest in ultra-fine imported wine also While the online wine market as a whole has particular has seen offerings from Tasmaniacontinues unabated. International demand reported 50 per cent growth over the last year, gain immense interest. Two pinot noirs infor Domaine de la Romanee-Conti is soaring, Cracka Wines’ sales have increased by over particular regularly sold dozens of casesparticularly in Asia as many collectors seek to 300 per cent, illustrating how reverse auctions in a single auction. The 2008 Elmsie Pinotexpand their cellars beyond first and second have captured the imagination of wine Noir, from some of Tasmania’s oldestgrowth Bordeaux. This trend is echoing here in drinkers and wineries nationwide. With over pinot vines, proved the most attractive,Australia with a rare listing of a 12 bottle mixed 200 different wines from regions such as the illustrating the use of the channel forcase of DRC recently achieving $22,988. Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Margaret River vendors wanting to appeal to the wine and Marlborough coming up for auction seven savvy consumer. That said, the classics still Although prices for classified growth days a week, the Cracka wine auctions now reign with the recent period seeing us runBordeaux have come down from their provide a useful channel for savvy wine buyers out the last stocks of the final vintage ofstratospheric heights, many wines continue to source quality wines at excellent prices. 2004 Yalumba D Sparkling Cabernet Shiraz,to record healthy prices. In recent trading a 2004 Geoff Merrill Botham Merrill Willisrare post war vintage bottle of 1948 Chateau The last two months have seen some Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon as well asLatour fetched $1378 while a bottle of 1967 very interesting trends emerging in Cracka’s the 93 Point Madfish Premium Red.Chateau d’Yquem achieved $1152. Prices online channel. First, we’re seeing a greaterremain firm for top vintages particularly for Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... What we do Best! It’s62 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

wine investment & collecting New classic regions also feature heavily For more information, visit www. big chains are going hard on imports andin auction sales with the performance of crackawines.com.au. All quoted prices are per pushing them out near the front door toNew Zealand wineries consistently strong. bottle with no buyer’s premium applicable. make sure willing punters don’t have farSauvignon blanc unsurprisingly made up the to carry.lion’s share of sales, particularly the 2011 STERLING WINEHoneymoon Bay and 2011 Fush n Chups, AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE A conversation with a new fine wine convertboth from Marlborough. New Zealand pinot (MARCH 2012 REPORT, from just north of the equator highlightsnoir is also in strong demand with wines BY LYNTON BARBER) the new paradigm. Changing from beingfrom Central Otago often featuring among The wine auction circus rolling through a “serious” XO Cognac drinker, my friendthe most popular for the month. Of late, two town is loud and gaudy - maybe more was aware of Penfolds Grange and Bin 707,labels in particular have proved popular - the colourful than ever! The new year has seen having been treated at dinner by friends.2008 Quail’s Run and the 2009 Ant Moore, a settling of patterns and a clarification of Concerned by excessive tannins and pleasingboth from Central Otago. Client reviews demand and surplus. his wife’s taste buds more than price, weillustrate many consumers are particularly settled on a starter pack of old favouritesenamoured by the silky texture of the Quail’s Big ticket imports are the biggest winners, - Penfolds St Henri, Bin 389 Torbreck Run RigRun. Perhaps the region most popular in with the best from Bordeaux and Burgundy Yalumba Octavius, Wynns John Riddoch andour auctions is Margaret River, especially being ever more keenly pursued. Super cherry on the cake, Rockford Basket Press.for shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, with the premium Australians are seeing local The intriguing tapestry of issues driving thisCracka wine auctions proving a happy hunting demand and support from Asia keeping list included reputation and continuity moreground for lovers of the Western Australian heat in the pot. More than ever, the “also than price or availability.style. The wines from Halliday five-star rans” are being swamped by the storm ofwineries Peccavi, Howard Park, Wise Wine low value/low quality “junk wine” pedalled The wine marketing gurus are workingand Merops have gained a particularly strong by the online dumpers. overtime reshaping industry problemsfollowing with the overwhelming value of the and spicing up common sense. More than2009 Merops Cabernet Sauvignon seeing The amazing statistics on imports recently uncommon is the interest stirred by the penconsistently strong bidder interest. highlighted how the colossal $A is an of DBC Pierre’s road rage epic Lights out in irresistible force in a world sadly tarnished Wonderland. This gen X Hunter S Thompson In the next period we look forward to by GSTs and Euro trash feuds. The auction has gushed and raved all over the fine winesreporting on a rash of new vendors soon scene is now plump and primed with from Marius, in McLaren Vale. Recently atto list on Cracka Wines - further increasing recently imported delights from France dinner in Brisbane, a pair of wilful vampsour range of quality wines we can supply and Italy, and delicious exotics from Spain forced me to experience the wine. The goodto the Australian wine consumer from the and Portugal. Look no further than your news is that the Marius Simpatico is a finefinest wine regions. local bottle shop for proof. Just about drop with one foot on the Rhone story and every corner independent through to the the other stomped on the gas. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 63

wine investment & collecting The picks from the March auction include along with questions from buyers about when Jacob’s Creek livery, also caught our buyer’ssome stunning Penfolds Clinic graduates. they could purchase wine - so a decision was attention as did Rockford Basket Press,Good qualities of 1980s Bins 128, 28 and 389 made to have a mid-January sale. Wolf Blass Black Label and Wynns Michaelare set off by 1980 St Henri. Serious demand magnums from the late ‘90s and early 2000s.has pushed prices well over estimates. Paying To our surprise, the resulting sale was As noted earlier, there was a very welcomeover $200 for the quality control guarantee much better than expected with turnover return of buyers to Henschke’s flagship Hillmakes better sense than risking a tired bottle and clearances up on the previous January. of Grace, even with lots in less than perfectof Grange on the special gathering. The gem With the Budget Auction, buyers just lapped condition. This couldn’t be said of Penfolds’of the sale is the 1952 Borgogno Barolo up another extensive offering of mixed reds/ flagship Grange however, where sales wereRiserva - likely the only 60th birthday tribute whites/rose/sparkling six packs. One of the quite patchy and bidding still focused onto come Sterling’s way in 2012. No doubt the major features of the Premium Auction, was the more perfect examples on offer. Whilecompetition will be frantic. the return of buyers to a couple of major the Top 10 List of Hammer Prices paid at wines that had been very slow to clear in this auction consists of Grange, Grange Sterling Wine Auctions conduct live on the latter half of last year: the premiums and Grange - they were all mainly from theline sales every month. For more details of Henschke, especially Hill of Grace and very strong years. Topping the table was ago to www.sterlingwine.com.au. Rockford Basket Press Shiraz. The amount magnum of 1980 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange of quality champagne sold was also quite Shiraz (original timber case) which fetchedODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS remarkable. Australian red table wines, $800 followed closely by a bottle of 1971(JANUARY 2012 AUCTION REPORT, especially shiraz, were once again on the Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz (level into neck)BY GRAHAM WRIGHT) radar of buyers and good clearances can be which sold for $714. The Imperfect GrangeOddbins Wine Auctions entered 2012 reported for 1990 Burge Meshach; Greenock section of the catalogue was very quiet thiswith a degree of anticipation, a modicum Creek Alice’s and Seven Acre - mainly from the January. Generally, the Imported categoryof introspection and a touch of hope. The 2000s - and 1995 Roennfeldt Road Shiraz. Also was a little quiet, expect for the champagne.flatness of the market in late 2011 was clearing well were 2004 and 2006 Duval Entity, From stock standard styles through to thestill playing on our minds as we launched the little seen 2005 Kilikanoon M Reserve Tete Cuvees, these all cleared very well. Forinto our second year of on-line auctioning. Shiraz, Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay from more information visit www.oddbins.com.au.Traditionally, January in the retail trade (let the late 2000s and Moss Wood’s famedalone the auction trade), is fairly flat as cabernet from the strong ‘06 and ‘08 vintages. GRAYSONLINEbusinesses and consumers take stock of (BY ROD GEDDES)their credit cards bills while feeling the pangs Most Mount Mary Quintet’s from the 2000s GraysOnline enjoyed a positive start toof guilt for over-buying in the mad rush up cleared as well along with a large chunk of 2012 aided partly by the holiday season asto Christmas. However, over the Christmas 2005 Murray Street Vineyard’s Gomersal we continue to be a great source of finebreak - valuations and stock kept rolling in Shiraz. The large offering of 1996 and ‘98 St Hugo cabernets, either in the Orlando or TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Kieran Gallagher on 02 9741 9600 or email [email protected] W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

wine investment & collectingand value wines for the consumer. A major the mature 1988 reached $390, offering value Auctionhighlight for customers was the appearance in relative terms. Penfolds Grange continues toof an interesting sale of wine from a shine with the 1972 at $614 and 1997 at $540. Cashfamous Melbourne restaurant liquidation. Magnums still offer ideal opportunities for the NOW!This created a huge spike in late March ultimate dinner party with Coonawarra classicwith diverse styles appearing frequently as 1994 Wynns John Riddoch at $270 and 1990 In a Hurry?bargains, but still added $100,000. Grant Burge at $169. The Wine Auction Process will get Grays again showed its strength in the With a 25 per cent increase in sales, MAT you better returns, but it could takeready to drink mature red category. How Champagne growth in Australia outpaced months to sell every last bottle.much longer can vintage 2002 continue to demand for local sparkling in the above $15make appearances? It was an exceptional market prior to Christmas. There are signs Consider a quick cash deal?vintage year with cool growing conditions of this easing in 2012 with Valentine’s Daycreating wines that still show freshness and seeing flat champagne sales. Bargains Sterling has a monthly “Live on Line”a bright, fruit flavour unique to the vintage. could be found with both Dom Perignon Wine Auction that taps hugeFor the discerning drinker there has been and Bollinger selling under expectations, International demand for premiuma steady supply of bargains to be had with due to weakening demand. back vintages. Find out how Sterlingsuperb drinking red wines, including 2002 works harder and smarter to produceAustralian Domaine Hattrick Shiraz as well March highlights included classic Melbourne the best results for you.as the 2003 Deer in Headlights Shiraz. Other sommelier-chosen French and Europeanmature names include 2002 Torbreck Neck wines with the potential for an exotic dinner FREE Auction CataloguesOil Shiraz Grenache for under $30 and three party including 1992 Krug Clos du Mesnil Brut FREE Bidder Registrationbottles of 2007 Scarborough Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs, Domaine de la Romanée-selling for under $50. Adelaide Hills wine Conti’s - including 2005 Echezeaux, 2002 Phone Lynton 08 9388 9955heroes Shaw and Smith’s M3 Chardonnay Richebourg and ‘02 Marey Monge Romanee or 0418 949 837,also sold for less than $25 each. St-Vivant. Other areas of interest this quarter were 2007 Domaine Pegau Chateauneuf du or www.sterlingwine.com.au Supply and demand of ready to drink Pape Cuvee da Capo, 1985 Chateau Moutoncabernet sauvignon continues to surprise with Rothschild and, with a local flavour, 2005 STERLINGPenfolds 407, especially the 2004, achieving Torbreck The Laird showing the scope of Wine Auctions & Exchangean average price of $50. Anticipation of Hill Grays ability to supply.of Grace turning 50 this year and the 2007selling at $600 saw celebratory pricing of For more information visit www.mature wines. The 1997 achieved $380 and graysonline.com. All prices listed include buyer’s premium. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 65

WORLD FINE WINE AUCTION PRICESWiNe Producer Vintage Vintage Vin- Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage tageFrance, Bordeaux 2009 2005 2003 2000 1996 1990 1982chateau Latour 17500 11200 12200 - 14700 -9500950033000 - -- -Chateau Lafite Rothschild 16500 15500 14900 - 26500 16100 15000 79900 --Chateau Mouton Rothschild 10900 7000 5000 14500 -- 6000 5400 18000 -chateau Haut Brion 11300 8200 6000 9300 5000 9000 12000 -chateau Margaux 12000 10800 8200 11500 - 8000 15000 16600 - -- -chateau La Mission Haut Brion 8000 6000 2700 7500 -2800 - 6000 - 17000Chateau Cheval Blanc 12900 - 7500 -600011000 -55001510012000 - --chateau Petrus 42000 - 45200 29500 59500 21600 53300 - 89600 - - -chateau Ausone 22300 - 25500 17500 23600 -- -6800 - 9300 6500 - -Le Pin 27500 36200 - NA - 45700 20300 - 32800 - 58500 -- --Vieux chateau certan 3100 -230014002500 1200 2600 2200 -Chateau Brane-Cantenac 850 900 750 1000- -90010001700 - -chateau cos d’estournel 4300 2400 2400 2000 2100 - 2900 5000 - -Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 3300 -23501800 2400 - 2200 1800 - 5200 -chateau Gruaud Larose 850 --800 650 1200 --120024005200 -Chateau Lascombes 950 -1000 - 8501100 -850 1000 - 2400 - --chateau Leoville Las cases 3450 3100 1850 3400 2900 4100 5500 --chateau Leoville Poyferre 2300 1400 1700 2000 -- 1500 4400 - 3900chateau Montrose 3500 1600 - 2300 2100 1200 - 7000 3300Chateau Palmer 3700 3200 1900 3200 2050 3200 3200Chateau Pichon Baron 1500 1400 - 1300 2300 1800 4000 2700Chateau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 1950 1200 - 1700 3000 2200 1400 8000 -chateau rauzan Gassies 480 600 - 600 700 - 600 - 600 - 1800chateau rauzan Segla 1500 1300 650 1150 1100 1900 1600France, Sauternes 2009 2005 2003 2000 1996 1990 1982Chateau d’Yquem 7500 6500 2800 4800 2500 5200 5500Chateau Rieussec 350 - 700 - 530 550 575 - 1200 1100chateau Suduiraut 1000 - 650 - 600 400 - 360 750 1300France, Burgundy 2009 2005 2002 1999 1996 1990 1985DRC Romanee Conti NA 150000 73500 - 63000 - 116900 - 36700 - 46800 -DRC La Tache NA 46600 28700 - 45000 32500 - 67000 65000 -Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin NA 17500 14600 15000 12000 17500 12000 -Domaine Leroy Chambertin NA 30800 - 15000 - 29000 27000 10000 NAFrance, Rhone 2009 2007 2005 2001 1996 1990 1978Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin 4200 6500 3900 5400 3500 - 12900 NAchateau rayas cNdP reserve NA NA 8400 3800 - NA - 21900 13000 -clos du Papes 850 1900 1300 - 1050 550 2300 5800Vieux Telegraphe 550 750 - 600 - 550 420 1200 4000Chave Hermitage NA 2100 3300 2400 1650 9550 11500Guigal La Landonne cote rotie NA 3550 6500 3200 3100 11600 24200Guigal La Mouline cote rotie NA 3200 5600 6300 5400 12000 5000Guigal La Turque cote rotie NA 3200 8600 4900 3400 10400 NAPrices are in USD for 12 x 750ml. United Cellars Fine Wine Auction Prices are not intended to predict future results of wine auction prices.Wine prices, and prices obtained at auction, can vary. Past performance is not indicative of future results. NA Not Available up down - steady Australia, New Zealand and Hong Kong’s leading wine Merchant. Specialising in boutique, fine and rare winesUnited Cellars Pty Ltd | Phone: 1300 5UNITED | SMS: 0402 767 929 | Email: [email protected] W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

WORLD FINE WINE AUCTION PRICESWiNe Producer Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage VintageFrance, Champagne 2002 1998 1996Salon cuvee ‘S’ NA NA 4600 1995 1990 1989 1985Dom Perignon Oenotheque NA NA 3100Krug clos du Mesnil NA 11000 14100 4000 - 6200 NA 8000Krug Clos d’Ambonnay NA NA 25500 -France, Alsace 2007 2005 2002 3900 3700 - NA 3500 -Trimbach Clos St Hune NA 1900 2300Zind-Humbrecht Hengst Gewurztraminer 950 950 500 10700 13100 800 - NAItaly, Piedmont 2006 2004 2003Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 5700 5500 2200 33500 - NA NA NALa Spinetta Barbaresco Valeirano 1300 1700 1600 2001 2000 1998 1995 3700 1900 4800 - 4100 700 - NA NA 600 - 2001 1997 1996 1990 ---270059003100 - - 6000 - 1700 1100 NA NASandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1700 2400 1100 1200 1500 2600 5200Italy, Tuscany 2006 2004 2003 2001 1997 1996 1990ornellaia Masseto 7400 8300 - 5500 12100 9600 6700 NAMacchiole 3000 5000 - 2200 4500 NA NA NAAntinori Solaia 2200 2500 - 4200 --- 2400 - 2600 1900 4200 -- - - - -San Guido Sassicaia 2100 2100 1700 2300 3700 1900 - 5200Italy, Amarone 2000 1997 1995 1993 1991 1981Quintarelli Amarone Classico 3500 -- 5900 5000 4000 3500 2400Spain, Rioja 2006 2004 2001 1995 1994 1982Artadi Vina Pison 2800 6500 3100 2800 - 1300 - NAArtadi Grandes Anadas NA - NA - 2000 - NA 1700 - NARioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva Especial NA - NA - 300 - 550 550 NASpain, Priorat 2005 2004 2001 1999 1996 1995Palacios L’Ermita 4100 6800 4750 3500 2600 3200 -Barbier clos Mogador 1500 -- 800 -- 1100 - 1000 900 480 -Spain, Ribera del Duero 2005 2004 2001 1999 1996 1995Pingus 13000 - 14700 - 7100 - 10600 2800 9000Flor Pingus 1600 1700 - 1400 1100 1300 NAPortugal, Porto 2007 2003 2000 1994 1992 1977Fonseca 700 - 700 650 - 1600 - 900 - 2000 -Graham 750 690 - 700 800 NA 1200Taylor Fladgate 750 - 1100-- 880 - 1400 - 1800 - 1600 - -Germany 2009 2008 2005 2001 1997 1996 1990 --Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1200 -900 - 3200 - - NA - 1300 1300 - 3200 -- --Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese 1100 900 - 1400 - NA NA 900 - NAWeil Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Auslese 1100 1100 - NA 750 - NA 1200 1300Australia, Barossa 2004 2002 2001 1998 1996 1990 1986Rockford Basket Press Shiraz NA 720 725 - 1000 1200 - 2500 NAPenfolds Grange 4700 4500 3450 4750 4200 7650 5600 -Australia, Eden Valley 2004 2002 2001 1998 1996 1990 1986Henschke Hill of Grace 5700 - NA - 6900 - NA - 5700 4200 - 4000 -Australia, Heathcote 2009 2005 2004 2000 1995 1993 1992Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz 600 1000 1100 - 900 1100 - 900 950 -Prices are in USD for 12 x 750ml. United Cellars Fine Wine Auction Prices are not intended to predict future results of wine auction prices.Wine prices, and prices obtained at auction, can vary. Past performance is not indicative of future results. NA Not Available up down - steady Australia, New Zealand and Hong Kong’s leading wine Merchant. Specialising in boutique, fine and rare winesUnited Cellars Pty Ltd | Phone: 1300 5UNITED | SMS: 0402 767 929 | Email: [email protected] May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 67

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINWESTERN AUSTRALIASCHOOL’S IN TAKE A BREAK romantic breaks. Jarrah Grove Retreat provides exclusive and private chaletPERTH’S NEWEST bar, The Classroom, ONE OF the Margaret River region’s most accommodation hidden in native forest inopened in late February with a theme that luxurious retreats is now giving locals and the Rosabrook hills and has teamed up withpays tribute to school classrooms from the visitors the opportunity to indulge in their neighbours Firetail Wines and The Berry1970s and ’80s. The bar from the Cocktail lounge bar. The Break Wine Bar is now open Farm to forge a new “indulgent getaway”Gastronomy Group offers up a slice of at Windmills Break, in Yallingup. Drinks are package. A three-night stay for two in onenostalgia, with its interior featuring walls lined served daily from noon and seasonal tapas of Jarrah Grove Retreat's private chalets, awith dusty chalkboards; superhero-themed are available every Thursday to Monday mixed case of Firetail wines and a lunch forlunchboxes, gold-embossed encyclopaedia from 2pm. The Break offers wines from the two at the Berry Farm, including a bottle ofsets, rusty pencil sharpeners and faded Margaret River region and also a range of sparkling wine and $100 worth of produceschool satchels. Tables come in the form beer, spirits and champagne (and sometimes from their cellar shop, costs from $1074of recycled wooden school desks and live entertainment). The tapas menu includes and includes weekend bookings. The 4.5-benches, while the back bar rests in a rowof repurposed gym lockers. “Our inspiration Smokey Bay oysters served natural or star Jarrah Grove chalet accommodationwas drawn from our many positive childhood Kilpatrick, grilled scallops with venison features include flat screen TVs and DVDsmemories of school,” says co-owner Daniel chorizo and pineapple, pancetta-wrapped with a selection of movies and music andSterpini. “School for us was all about having prawns with sour cream foam and parmesan is located on the Rosabrook Country Trails,fun and learning something at the same cracker, steak kebabs with sesame tossed close to boutique wineries, horse riding,time.” The bar features an innovative drinks spinach and roasted capsicum and salt artist studios and Redgate Beach. A shortlist that stays true to the school theme, with and pepper squid with a fresh side salad. drive away is Margaret River township – andthe selection broken up into three subjects. Windmills Break was also recently named the some of the most famous winery namesThe “History” section contains old school best resort in Western Australia and the No.6 in the country. The Berry Farm is a foodcocktails, the “Science” section contains hotel in Australia by users of the TripAdvisor and wine lover's haven, with a delightfulbubbling and smoking concoctions while website. Windmills Break is at 2024 Caves cottage cafe featuring local produce, plusthe “Art” section contains colourful and Rd, Yallingup; phone (08) 9755 2341 www. its own label wines and ports and gourmetplayful recipes. “We wanted to include some windmillsbreak.com.au. preserves, sauces, dressings and vinegarsnew offerings never seen before in Perth to for tasting and sale. Firetail Wines, at Rojekeep in line with the education theme,” says ROMANTIC RETREAT Estates, is a boutique winery on 5ha of rollingco-owner Adam Keane. “The Classroom hills. The special package does not includewants to push the boundaries with a hand THE ROSABROOK region of Margaret public holidays and long weekends, andselection of craft beers and local boutique River is a little off the beaten track, but is subject to availability and Jarrah Grovewine producers to give punters a difference offers a stunning getaway destination for Retreat terms and conditions. To bookfrom the norm of small bar drinking.” couples. Three of Rosabrook’s boutique phone (08) 9757 5077 and quote bookingThe menu includes snacks ranging from tourism operators have combined to create code JGRFTBF. Further information atzucchini fritters with cucumber and feta a new package aimed at those seeking www.jarrahgroveretreat.com.whip to pork sausage rolls with fenneland apple, served with apricot chutney,to dishes like Szechuan pepper squidwith nam-jim dressing; chermoula chickendrumsticks with roasted sweet potato andeggplant; and individual rabbit pies. Thewine list features Western Australian names,including Xanadu, Bellarmine, Karribindi,Fraser Gallop, Harewood and Deep Woods,along with an excellent selection of boutiquespirits. The Classroom is at 1/356 CharlesSt, North Perth. It is open from 11am-late onWednesday-Saturday and 11am-10pm onSundays. See www.theclassroom.com.au.68 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

travelbriefsKIMBERLEY RETREAT NEW CHEF, NEW MENU hazelnut nougat; and pigeon breast with orange and lemon chutney sauce, spinachNEED A break from too much wine and RECENTLY ARRIVED chef Pascal Pietri has and Jerusalem artichoke. Opus Restaurantfood? The far North Kimberley's iconic introduced a new menu at Opus Restaurant is at 32 Richardson St, Perth; phone (08)Kimberley Coastal Camp is set to launch in Perth boutique hotel, The Richardson. 9217 8880. www.opusrestaurant.com.auits first yoga and wellness retreat this June. The a la carte and degustation menus areHosted by Ryoho yoga therapist and host largely based around seasonality, using GOURMET ATTRACTIONof Australia's Yoga TV, Kris McIntyre, the the best available produce from Westernthree-day, all-inclusive package will feature Australia. The new chef replaces Todd MARGARET RIVER has a new gourmetmeditation, nutrition, yoga, massage and Cheavins, who departed for a role in North attraction: Gabriel Chocolates on Cavesreflexology at one of the world's most America after almost six years leading Rd, Yallingup. Hand-made chocolates usingsecluded destinations. Guests are invited to the culinary team at Opus. Pietri comes cocoa beans from around the world areexperience intimate encounters with ancient from Lyon, the much-acclaimed home of offered for tasting and are sold alongsidecultures and rock art, native wildlife, pristine French cuisine, and brings a vast wealth chocolate-dipped gelato bars and 5 Sensesbeaches, bush walking, gourmet meals, of experience and creativity gained over coffee, which has won acclaim from locals.including fresh locally caught seafood, 25 years in top establishments in France, Gabriel Chocolate is on the corner of Cavesand luxurious beach front accommodation. Spain, Portugal and Qatar. The popular grill and Quininup roads Yallingup; phone (08)Kimberley Coastal Camp is a small luxury menu, featuring Stockyard grain-fed beef 9756 6689 and it is open 10am-5pm daily.wilderness lodge located on country known to steaks and Dorper lamb rack, remains as antraditional owners as Yalrundair, overlooking alternative to the new, classically-inspired NEW CELLAR DOORthe Timor Sea. Open from late March to a la carte menu which offers choices likeOctober each year, Kimberley Coastal Camp stuffed rabbit with green peas and crunchy CREDARO FAMILY Estate at Yallingup islimits guests to just 12 and with access Margaret River’s newest cellar door andrestricted to helicopter and float plane it offers views over the Wildwood Valley onis one of the world's most secluded and Caves Rd. The Credaro family has a 90-unspoiled destinations. The first Kimberley year history with the region - pioneeringCoastal Camp wellness retreat will be held family members having migrated fromfrom June 9-12. All inclusive packages northern Italy in 1922 - and visitors aredeparting Broome are $4936 per person or welcome to bring a picnic lunch and enjoy$4685 from Kununurra; phone 0417 902 00. wines on the large lawn area. The cellarwww.kimberleycoastalcamp.com.au. door is open daily from 10.30am-5pm. The family has been commercially involved inREGIONAL BAR the wine industry since the 1980s, when their first plantings began supplying otherBOHO IS Margaret River’s newest bar, with established Margaret River wineries. Todayits roots in the Bohemian past of the region. the Credaros manage 120ha of vines in theIt’s part of the Dark Horse Developments sub-regions of Carbunup, Treeton, YallingupGroup – which is behind several of Perth’s and Wallcliffe. The family owns threetop bars, including The Cabin and The Suite separate vineyards, with current plantings– in conjunction with locals Mike and Di of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay,Richardson. There’s a lively and interesting semillon, sauvignon blanc, shiraz andwine list and BoHo Bar operates under a merlot and two small plots planted with thesmall bar licence which allows visitors to Italian variety fragola and gewürztraminer.drink without dining. The menu features The Credaro winery is situated in Carbunupdishes like eight-hour poached beef and was built in 2003 but the new cellarfillet, blue cheese and apple terrine and door is at 2715 Caves Road, Yallingup;smoked baby onion; and seared lamb www.credarowines.com.au.with black cabbage and white asparagus.BoHo Bar is at 2/149 Bussell Highway, Above: Kimberley Coastal camp swimming pool andMargaret River; phone (08) 9758 8280. open sided pavilion for relaxing. Opposite page: Opus Restaurant interior in The Richardson. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 69

464 TASTED OF THE WEST244 AWARDEDBESTOne of our biggest tastings of the year, the West offers Somerset Hill SAUVIGNONwines across all styles and all varieties, which makes Great Southern Semillon BLANCit one of our most interesting tastings. As you know 2011 HHH1/2all wines are tasted blind so wines have to earn their Vibrant, grassy bouquet with 23 TASTEDstripes, and even though WA makes some of our finest hints of mint and supple juicy 13 AWARDEDwines we are also critical of those that don’t make the palate with lovely toasty notes Solid group of wines, but alsocut. While the judges were concerned about sugar and racy acidity. $21 a number having sulphideaddition on some of the sauvignon blanc blends, this Third Wheel Margaret issues or unbalanced residualstyle still abounds as one of our great “lunch wines”. River Classic Dry White sweetness. However, overallOther categories the judges favoured included “racy” 2009 HHH good commercial drinking withrieslings, chardonnay across the vintages and cabernet Big, waxy semillon-like few faults.and shiraz blends. It was amazing to see the plethora of aromas and rich, creamy,new shiraz wines, many of a high standard! lemon-butter palate with Willoughby Park Denmark nutty/toasty notes. $14.99 Great Southern SauvignonSPARKLING St Aidan Geographe Houghton Western Blanc 2011 HHHH1/2 Sparkling Chardonnay Australia White 2011 HHH Lovely perfumed/floral bouquet12 TASTED 2010 HHH A very delicate lifted wine with with lily-of-the-valley and3 AWARDED Simple lemon sherbet aromas pleasant, spritzig-like lemon gooseberry-like characters. and a fresh, clean, zesty characters. $13.99 A long, lingering palate with greatGenerally a disappointing group lemony-like palate. $25 Willespie Margaret River vibrancy and subtle but well-according to the judges. Too White 2011 HHH defined varietal flavours. $24many wines were “tricked-up OTHER Perfumed nose and well-with sugar,”noted one judge, WHITE VARIETALS textured palate, with nice Galafrey Sauvy“Without having the acid and & BLENDS balance of fruit and acid. $17 Mt Barker Sauvignonfreshness to carry the flavour!” Gorgeous White Margaret Blanc 2011 HHHHHowever, the best here 14 TASTED River White 2010 HHH A fine, well-crafted wine withhad good mousse and nice 7 AWARDED Nicely balanced wine with subtle grassy/lemon aromaschampagne-like minerality. delicate lime and floral and delicate, but well-focused, A couple of good semillons characters, with attractive flavours on the slippery,Sittella Western Australia with one showing how age mineral notes. $19.99 textured palate. $18Chardonnay 2009 HHHH can improve this variety. Like Brygon ReserveA poised, beautifully integrated to see more of these. And a Mirror Imagewine with lemon sorbet/ couple of pleasant commercial Margaret River Classicbrioche-like aromas and wines in the blends. Dry White 2009 HHHflavours showing some crisp Fresh, savoury food style; crisplime edges. $23 Alkoomi Wandoo and lively with fruit in the white Frankland River Semillon stonefruit spectrum. $16.99Burch Family Wines Jete 2005 HHHH1/2Mount Barker Great Lovely grassy/lime juice aromasSouthern Sparkling Rosé and a fine, well-focused palateNV HHH with long, lingering flavours,Fresh cherry fragrances and a loads of bright acidity anddrying palate with subtle but showing attractive, toasty,well-balanced fruit flavours. $33 aged characters. $34.7670 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

“The hidden jewel of Margaret River”

BEST OF THE WESTDeep Woods Estate Jamie & Charlie by Michael Quaram Rocks MargaretMargaret River Sauvignon Goundrey Denmark Great River Sauvignon BlancBlanc 2011 HHHH Southern Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 HHHHDelicate, light and fresh 2011 HHH1/2 Punchy varietal nose; smellssauvignon blanc with a lovely A good, clean, easy-drinking of asparagus and snowpeas.balance and definition of snow style with great varietal Palate is clean, crisp andpea and green capsicum definition of citrus and mineral- juicy with tight acid and long,aromas and flavours. $20 like characters. $18 lingering flavours. $14Forester Estate Margaret Woodgate Manjimup Howard Park Miamup Matilda’s Estate WesternRiver Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Margaret River Australia Sauvignon Blanc2011 HHHH Smells of lime juice with Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 HHHHSmells of limes and freshly cut a rose petal lift. Similar Semillon 2011 HHHH1/2 Great aromatics of fresh basil,herbs with a supple, rounded characters echoed on the Fragrant, guava and snow peas and lantana. Palatepalate, with lovely depth of delicate palate. $17 lemongrass aromas nicely is fresh and zippy with delicatenutty/ lime juice flavours and a underpinned by toasty oak lemon and kiwi fruit-likelong, mineral finish. $23 Evans & Tate Metricup Rd followed by a lovely balance flavours. $18Matilda’s Vineyard Great Margaret River Sauvignon of lime/citrus fruit and buttery Beach Head bySouthern Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2011 HHH toastiness. $27 Credaro Margaret2011 HHHH Herbaceous aromas; hints of Streicker Bridgeland River Sauvignon BlancA classy Sancerre-like style snow peas. Fresh “bouncy” Block Margaret River Semillon 2011 HHH1/2with a punchy herbaceous and palate with long, lingering Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Restrained, subtle, earthycapsicum-like nose, and a long, flavours. $22 2010 HHHH1/2 mushroom characters on thetight, minerally acidic palate. $25 Lime juice-like aromas mingle lemongrass nose. Juicy palate -Howard Park Western Woody Nook Margaret with vanilla custard characters. lovely cleanliness. $18Australia Sauvignon Blanc River Sauvignon Blanc Palate is dominated by2011 HHH1/2 2011 HHH lovely, spicy oak layered with Somerset Hill GreatFruity gooseberry nose with Vibrant lemongrass fragrances lime juice-like varietal fruit Southern Sauvignon Blancfruit tingle notes. Fresh, well- and very pretty, sweet, fresh characters. $32.50 Semillon 2011 HHH1/2balanced lime citrus palate with fruit flavours. $24 A fresh, lively wine withsome subtle toastiness. $29 sweet green bean/capsicumMandoon Pemberton James Oatley Western characters layered with greenSauvignon Blanc Australia Sauvignon Blanc herbal-like elements. $192011 HHH1/2 2010 HHH Credaro Family EstateInteresting pungent gooseberry A musky, sweet, well-balanced Margaret Riveraromas and bright, juicy palate commercial style with nice, Sauvignon Blancoffering easy drinking with herbaceous finish. $17.99 Semillon 2011 HHH1/2good acid spine. $18 Delicate aromatics withKnee Deep in Margaret SAUVIGNON subtle green bean/capsicumRiver Sauvignon Blanc BLANC SEMILLON characters layered with green2011 HHH1/2 herbal notes. $22Pretty nose with intense 27 TASTED Saracen Estates Margaretconcentration of gooseberries 12 AWARDED River Sauvignon Blancand a long, fresh, citric palate Semillon 2011 HHH1/2with a drying acid finish. $22 “These are more accessible Pleasantly delicate, perfumed and palatable than the straight floral aromas and a pretty citrus/JUDGES sauvignon blancs,” said one floral palate that has lovely judge. However, a few still had vibrancy and crispness. $22 ferment/yeasty issues. Generally these are made for easy drinking rather than for ageing.Lara Bray Charlotte Newton John DurhamOwner and winemaker Lecturer in sensory Senior winemaker forfor Aldersyde Estates evaluation & wine production Plantagenet Wines.(formerly Piesse Brook). at Curtin University. Formerly Previously winemakerHas judged at Cowra, winemaker for Devil’s Lair for Cape Mentelle forMt Barker, Sydney, winery. Previously also at 21 years. Has vintagedPerth Royal, Perth Hills Coldstream Hills (Yarra Valley) in Bordeaux at Chateauand the National Wine with vintages in Chablis, Latour. Has consultedShow (Canberra). Languedoc and Canterbury for Moss Wood & Vasse (NZ). Associate judge at the Felix wineries in WA. Margaret River wine show.72 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingMad Fish Sideways Knee Deep in Margaret Alkoomi Frankland RiverMargaret River Sauvignon River Margaret River Riesling 2011 HHHBlanc Semillon 2011 HHH Chenin Blanc 2011 HHH Some toasty notes andPungent, figgy, melon bouquet Lifted, herbaceous, capsicum spiciness to the nose, and tart,and a sweet, flavoursome, aromas and light, grassy palate savoury palate with good corejuicy-lime palate. $17 with nice acid balance. $22 of fruit. $20.36The Alchemists Premium Sandalford Estate Reserve Poacher’s Ridge Millbrook PembertonBlock Selection Margaret Margaret River Chenin Great Southern Riesling Riesling 2011 HHHRiver Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2011 HHH 2011 HHHH Good line and length of citrusSemillon 2011 HHH Lifted fruit tingle-like aromas A delicate and pretty wine with characters on both nose andPassionfruit and guava lift off the and delicate, confectionery a tight acid core and wrapped palate with mineral notes. $21.95nose, and limes and lemons fill palate. Nice finish. $25 in subtle, flinty, floral varietalthe mouth. Very drinkable. $19 fruit. Offers good ageing 3 Drops Mount Barker RIESLING potential. 5+ $18.99 Riesling 2011 HHHGreedy Sheep Margaret Tight, minerally nose withRiver Sauvignon Blanc 19 TASTED Plantagenet Mount Barker limes underneath. Long, tight,Semillon 2011 HHH 11 AWARDED Riesling 2011 HHHH steely palate high in acid. WillFresh and juicy with long, Great aromas - smells limey age well. $22lingering, varietal flavours An excellent class of racy and muscaty. Palate is lifted,showing a crisp, sherbet-like rieslings with a few showing vibrant and precise, with well- Xabregas Familyedge. $18 a touch of balancing, residual focused depth and balance of Vineyards Mount Barker sweetness. Some lovely mineral punchy, fruit flavours. $25 Riesling 2011 HHHKnee Deep in Margaret and pure austere fruit styles here. Lifted tropical bouquet andRiver Margaret River sweet-fruit palate with goodSauvignon Blanc Semillon Forest Hill Vineyard Block level of acid to balance. $232011 HHH 1 Mount Barker RieslingA simple, crisp, clean, 2010 HHHHH Ferngrove Cossackenjoyable wine; attractive “This is serious stuff,” said Frankland River Rieslinggreen bean and lemongrass one judge. The toasty nose 2010 HHHcharacters. $22 developing attractive bottle- Powerful, toasty, bottle age aged characters and fine characters sitting on top ofCHENIN BLANC minerally palate showing great slatey/mineral-like fruit. $23 poise and finesse, with a long,7 TASTED lingering hit of flavours. $40 VIOGNIER/4 AWARDED VERDELHO Gilberts Alira MountA solid group of accessible, fruity Barker Riesling 2011 HHH 8 TASTEDwines here for easy drinking. Smells of honeysuckle with a 2 AWARDED whisker of toastiness. SweetTreeton Estate fruit palate. A pretty wine. $16 Disappointing; generally aMargaret River Chenin generic group of wines withBlanc 2009 HHH1/2 Howard Park too many showing broad, fruitA full, flavoursome wine with Great Southern Riesling flavours without the requireda whiff of apricots on the Mad Fish Grandstand 2011 HHH fresh fruit intensity.nose and some attractive Great Southern Rieslingtoastiness. $18 2011 HHHH1/2 A classic riesling that has Deep Woods Estate purity and refinement, with Margaret River VerdelhoPaul Conti Tuart Sherbety, citrus bouquet with clean, well-focused lemon 2011 HHH1/2Vineyards Swan Valley a lovely, perfumed, floral edge. An interesting, musky, fruitChenin Blanc 2011 HHH fruit. 5+ $30 wine with a tight core of citrusEasy drinking, balanced, and balancing acidity. $20tropical-fruit style with goodacid spine. Enjoy now. $16 Beautifully balanced, classy palate with delicious, sweet apple flavours perfectly balanced by crisp acidity. 5+ $17 JUDGESAndrew Cherry Peter Bradbeer Sarah CecchiSenior winemaker for Sales Executive at Liquor Area Manager and ImportsAlkoomi Wines. Previously Barons. Liquor retailer Leader, Negociants WA.with O’Leary Walker of 20 years plus. Former Has completed the LenWines. Associate judge wine educator and judge at Evans wine tutorial. Vinat the Clare Valley Wine the Mt Barker wine show de Champagne winner,Show & Sheraton Perth and consults to various Australia (2006). Negociants& Royal Perth wine shows. Australian wine companies. staff winner 2008. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 73

BEST OF THE WESTSilkwood Pemberton Evans & Tate Metricup Winston Lake Estate CHARDONNAYVerdelho 2011 HHH Road Margaret River Margaret River 2011A fresh, fruity, creamy Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignoncommercial style with a 2011 HHHH Blanc 2011 HHH 26 TASTEDsavoury tropical edge. $11.99 A classic style with a lovely fig Nice florals on the nose 14 AWARDED and lime-like bouquet and great with a mature, creamy A good standard of wines hereSEMILLON depth of varietal flavours on the palate and obvious semillon with a nice touch of funkinessSAUVIGNON fine, well-textured palate. $22 characters. $14.99 to lift a few above the pack.BLANC Clairault B79 Margaret Pitchfork Margaret These are early release wines River Semillon Sauvignon River Semillon Sauvignon to enjoy over lunch.30 TASTED Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 Blanc 2011 HHH Gilberts Hand Picked15 AWARDED A fragrant, figgy nose and Zesty, herbaceous aromas; Mt Barker Chardonnay good length of juicy fig-like slight spearmint notes. Sweet, 2011 HHHH1/2Judges were split here as to flavours with just a hint of crunchy, green apple palate. $16 A balanced, food oriented winewhich blend had more to offer vanillin oak. $35 Sandalford Classic Dry with funky, oak-driven aromassemillon/sauvignon blanc or Brygon Reserve White Margaret River and fruity highlights, and asauvignon blanc/semillon. “Why The Bruce Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc palate along savoury lines; juicyare we adding too much sugar Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH yet firm with intense, well-to these blends,” asked one 2011 HHH1/2 A delicate, fruity, floral number balanced flavours. $25judge. The best were fresh and Lemon curd-like bouquet with with good acid backbone and Hodskiss Estate Margaretlively with a touch more texture. herbal notes and zesty, citrus oily mouthfeel. $18.99 River Chardonnay palate with some racy acidity Birds of a Feather 2011 HHHH1/2Peppermint Creek and a crisp finish. $17.99 Reserve Collection A lift of limes and lemons onWines Margaret River Fishbone Margaret River Margaret River Semillon the peachy nose. The oakSemillon Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH richness sits well with the2011 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 Sweet and spritzig crowd abundance of ripe, tropicalPungent passionfruit aromas A light, fresh and easy drinking pleaser with an intense fruit characters. The wine haswith a citric lift. Good balance wine full of tropical fruit mouthful of tropical fruit salad weight, texture and length. $22between tropical fruit flavours, characters with some lemon flavours. $19.99the acid and some pleasant rind nuances. $20 Celestial Bay Margaret Gralyn Estate Reservephenolics. $14 Brygon Reserve River Semillon Sauvignon Margaret River Chardonnay Epitome Margaret River Blanc 2011 HHH 2011 HHHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Smells of ripe green apples A lean and elegant chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 with a smattering of melons. with a lovely, spicy ginger lift A pretty, lifted, aromatic Similar palate - nice, clean to the citrussy nose and a bouquet; good intensity. Well- lines. $20 funky, complex and beautifully balanced, sweet, stonefruit Barton Jones The Brilliant layered palate showing loads of flavours on well-structured Cut Geographe Semillon character. $55 palate. $29.99 Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Deep Woods Ivory Margaret A fine, poised classic with River Semillon Sauvignon lovely developed sweet fig Blanc 2011 HHH and melon fruit with smoky Lively, fresh, snow pea aromas overtones. $22 and a sweet, juicy and well Singlefile Denmark balanced palate. $15 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Oakover Wines Swan 2011 HHH Valley Semillon Sauvignon A bright, juicy, straightforward Blanc 2011 HHH style with clean, green bean and Musky aromas with some asparagus fruit characters. $25 vitamin B-like characters. Sweet, simple and citrussy in the mouth. $12JUDGES Rob Bowen Paul Edwards Simon Burnett Senior Winemaker/Regional Sales & Marketing Chief winemaker Willow general manager of the Manager Swanbourne Bridge Estate. Formerly Houghton wine company. Cellars and also principal of winemaker at Cape More than thirty years Full Bottle Wine Education Mentelle. Associate judge experience as a winemaker & Events. Conducts the at Margaret River Wine and consultant. Has worked WSET course in the Shows. Has vintaged in with Plantagenet, Capel Vale, WA and is on the Liquor the Napa, McLaren Vale and Willow Bridge. Has had Barons Tasting panel. and the Adelaide Hills. overseas experience in the UK, France and New Zealand.74 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingWinston Lake Estate Swings & Roundabouts Palandri The EstatesMargaret River Margaret River Frankland RiverChardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2011 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHAn interesting hint of sea Fresh and vibrant, toasty, ripe Smoky, sweet fig bouquet andspray on the nose and nice lemon style. Will age well - just nice, smoky oak on the palatemealy/quince flavours with needs time to settle. $22 mingling with the varietal fruitmineral notes and a tight, flavours. Good acid backbone.dry finish. $14.99 Dry finish. $15Fraser Gallop Estate Somerset Hill Great Warner Glen Estate Birds of a FeatherMargaret River Southern Chardonnay Margaret River Humming Bird SeriesChardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 2011 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHH Margaret RiverLight, refreshing and very Bright, lifted fragrances of A serious, steely stunner that has Chardonnay 2010 HHHHapproachable. Smells of lemons lemon sherbet and tangy citrus loads of sweet, peachy fruit, well- A lovely, rounded, creamy winewith a floral lift. Palate has plenty peel-like flavours. $19 matched by the oak and showing with bright, melon/peach andof body and structure. $23 lovely, creamy, butterscotch light, smoky oak aromas, andHay Shed Hill Block Hay Shed Hill characters with an oily mouthfeel. some nice, flinty funk to the6 Margaret River Margaret River A serious food wine! $30 well-balanced palate. $17.99Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2011 HHH Alkoomi ChardonnayA youthful, but balanced and Smells of ginger spice and Singlefile Family Reserve 2010 HHHHwell-layered wine with good butterscotch with a very linear, Denmark Chardonnay Closed nose with mineral notesmelon/stonefruit characters and crisp, mouth-puckering palate. 2010 HHHH1/2 and touches of herbs andbright, intense acidity. $35 Time! $25 A fine, elegant, yet complex melons. Nicely focused, coolGoundrey Homestead wine exhibiting layers of funky fruit flavours. A wine with classWestern Australia Smithbrook Pemberton oak, honeydew melon fruit and and elegance. $22.34Unwooded Chardonnay Chardonnay 2011 HHH minerally notes, and with a 3 Drops Chardonnay2011 HHH A tight, tangy, commercial wine lovely backbone of bright acid 2010 HHHHPretty, floral lift to the nose with nice spritz, citrus fruit and to support it all. $45 A long, well-structured, tightlyand a tight and fresh fruit- bright acidity. $28 Mad Fish Sideways layered chardonnay with funky,driven palate. $16.99 Margaret River steely aromas and toasty,Crooked Brook Wines CHARDONNAY Chardonnay 2010 HHHH savoury flavours with pleasant,Western Australia 2010 Bold and juicy wine with lovely mineral elements. $24Chardonnay 2011 HHH peaches and cream aromas, Chestnut Grove ReservePlenty of everything here; 40 TASTED and showing good varietal fruit Chardonnay 2010 HHHHfloral, peachy fruit, spicy oak 24 AWARDED definition on the flavoursome Clean, lively and light with aand malo creaminess. $15 palate; loads of oak. $22 fresh, steely edge and tight,Pitchfork Margaret River Another consistent class - one youthful minerally lime flavours.Chardonnay 2011 HHH year older and a touch more oak Nice texture. Great example ofA delicate, lightly flavoured than the previous one. “These a cool climate wine. $30style with plenty of tight, wines generally came acrosslemony acidity. $16 as being broader in flavour,”Whip Cracker said one judge. “The highlightsMargaret River here were better with moreChardonnay 2011 HHH winemaking involved.”Simple, light-bodied style buthas good intensity and lengthof varietal fruit. $20Clifford Royle Paul Boulden JUDGESSenior winemaker Flametree Chief winemaker forWines. Formerly winemaker Sandalford Wines for the Larry Jorgensenfor Voyager Estate for the past seven years. Formerly Sales and Marketingpast five years. Winestate’s with Yalumba, Stoniers Manager for CelestialWinemaker of the Year and Tarrawarra. Also Bay Wines. Former2002. Has completed the vintaged in Bordeaux and Cellar Door Manager atAdvanced Wine Assessment Spain. Judge at Adelaide Lamont’s Winery andCourse (AWRI). Associate wine show and Cowra. currently also a lecturerjudge for Perth and Mount in Wine AppreciationBarker wine shows. for the Wine Industry Association of WA. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 75

BEST OF THE WESTSandalford Prendiville Plantagenet Mt Barker Birds of a Feather Hutton TriptychReserve Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 HHH Reserve Collection Margaret RiverChardonnay 2010 HHHH Bright, clean and intense with Margaret River Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2Nicely defined varietal fruit with good depth of peach/citrus fruit 2009 HHHH1/2 Interesting nose; funky anda light, steely edge and good, and lively acidity. $28 A classic, old school, WA savoury with more of the samecreamy, oak focus. It is rich chardonnay with a complexity on the palate. A very differentand intense, and has plenty of Brygon Reserve of lemon butter characters, but pleasing style. $40depth and character. $59.95 Epitome Margaret River yellow-fleshed stone fruits andHutton Triptych Chardonnay 2010 HHH nutty notes. Has good palate Houghton WisdomMargaret River Simple, well-balanced and weight and depth and lots of Pemberton ChardonnayChardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 straightforward varietal with acid. $19.99 2009 HHH1/2Pretty, floral nose and simple, plenty of acidity and crisp Third Wheel Reserve Great balance of mellow,lime/melon flavours balanced finish. $29.99 Margaret River Chardonnay developing, aged characters andby crisp acidity with some leesy 2009 HHHH1/2 lively freshness. Purity of varietalfunk adding complexity. $40 Credaro Family A savoury food wine with fruit with supporting acid. $29.99The Charman Reserve Estate Margaret River moderate stonefruit intensitySelection Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 HHH and well-handled oak adding Deep Woods EstateChardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Clean, zesty hit of lemon and complexity and structure. Reserve Margaret RiverA ripe, silky smooth, warmer white, floral, varietal fruit with The palate is long and well- Chardonnay 2009 HHHclimate chardonnay with plenty of oak to balance. $30 balanced with a nicely rounded A lean, Chablis-like style. Closed,flavoursome, tropical fruits and finish. $19.99 minerally nose, loads of fruitsome warming alcohol. $28 Streicker Ironstone Block tannin, some oak influence. $35Upper Reach Reserve Old Vine Margaret River Thompson Estate MargaretSwan Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay 2010 HHH River Chardonnay Brygon Reserve Mirror2010 HHH1/2 A cool climate-style with juicy, 2009 HHHH1/2 Image Margaret RiverSome nice funkiness mingling floral, lime, varietal fruit and Clean, peach kernel-like Chardonnay 2009 HHHwith the light, steely fruit and judicious use of quality oak. $35 fragrances and a full-bodied A nicely made, minerally stylenutty oak, and giving the wine palate brimming over with long, with good balance of fruit andrichness and complexity. $28 Wignalls Chardonnay lingering, buttery lime flavours. racy acidity. $14.99Fraser Gallop Estate 2010 HHH Very textural and still showingMargaret River A rich, ripe, well-balanced wine loads of freshness. $45 Third Wheel ReserveChardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 with a perfumed peach bouquet Mandoon Reserve Margaret RiverToasty floral bouquet and and rich, oily flavours. $35 Margaret River Chardonnay 2009 HHHwarm, sweet palate with tangy Chardonnay 2009 HHHH A big wine with plenty of citruscitrus fruit held together nicely Forester Estate Intense, long and well-textured and stonefruit punch backed bywith some bright acidity. $31 Margaret River style full of yellow fruit and some malo complexity. $14.99Millbrook LR Geographe Chardonnay 2010 HHH white pepper-like characters.Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Ripe, mouthfilling, melon fruit Good drinking now or cellar for Evans & Tate RedbrookBright and lively style with steely flavours with tropical notes, three or more years. $45 Margaret Rivernotes and lingering butterscotch/ some sweetness but balanced Brygon Reserve The Chardonnay 2009 HHHlime flavours. Still youthful with by the acid. $38 Bruce Margaret River A simple wine; some pungencyintense acidity. $42 Chardonnay 2009 HHHH to the nose and high acid, citrusBrygon Reserve Bin Evoi Wines Reserve A balanced, full flavoured wine palate. Some aged notes. $35868 Margaret River Margaret River showing hints of kiwi fruit-likeChardonnay 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH varietal characters. Seamless ROSEQuite complex, floral/ Well defined varietal fruit here oak/acid balance and plenty ofstonefruit aromas and fresh, with excellent oak integration. palate length. $17.99 8 TASTEDwhite, stonefruit flavours. A lively juicy wine. $42 1 AWARDEDLots of acid. $16.99Evans & Tate Metricup CHARDONNAY “If you are going to make aRoad Margaret River 2009 & OLDER rosé, select the fruit to make aChardonnay 2010 HHH rosé,”noted one judge. “ThereA good, crisp and punchy cool- 17 TASTED were too many after thoughtsclimate style of chardonnay 11 AWARDED in this category.”with nice, slatey, mineralelements. $22 Most wines in this category Pitchfork Margaret RiverFerngrove Diamond offered early, rather than later, Rosé 2011 HHHFrankland River drinking. A couple of fine Smells of strawberries withChardonnay 2010 HHH examples here with others lifted, red berry flavours on theLifted oaky aromas and big, offering good drinking. vibrant, light bodied palate. $16creamy palate with plenty ofeverything; be great with agood steak. $2576 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingPINOT NOIR Plantagenet Mt Barker Silkwood Pemberton OTHER Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 RED VARIETALS12 TASTED A leathery, spicy, nose that Very easy drinking style with & BLENDS6 AWARDED smells like stewed strawberries great earthy, funky, forestThe judges found there were with a savoury, earthy floor-like characters, a creamy 15 TASTEDsome surprisingly good wines palate that has a bright, acid texture and drying tannins. $18 8 AWARDEDin this mixed group, with some backbone. $45 Lost Lake Barrel Selectionserious effort put into both the Paul Conti Pemberton Pinot Noir A couple of easy drinkers invineyard and winemaking. Medici Ridge Manjimup 2009 HHH the blends with a range of Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Funky, earthy aromas and ripe, different varieties emerging inHoward Park Flint Rock A big bodied wine with savoury/balcony flavours. Good the Other Red Variety categoryGreat Southern Pinot Noir attractive, feral notes, Ribena drinking now or over the next and showing promise for the2010 HHHH1/2 and red currant-like varietal two years. $25 future. The best wines showedCrimson hues, focused, spicy/ fruit, good acid spine and The Lake House Denmark varietal characters rather thanherbal/black fruit aromas and a velvety tannins. $25 Great Southern Pinot Noir just being dry reds.tight, tannic palate with good 2009 HHHvarietal fruit definition. Still very A simple, pleasant wine with Upper Reach Westernyouthful wine with a lovely leafy, red fruits, some herbal Australia Tempranillostructure. $27 notes and an earthy nuance. $45 2010 HHHH Raspberry, cola-like nose with tobacco notes. Light bodied palate with raspberry and sweet pastry-like flavours and earthy tannins. $25Stockists of an extensive range of Italian & Spanish beveragesSpecialty Liquor Merchants La Vigna’s Recommendations from left to right Mas Pere Cava, Condes de Albarei Albarino 10, Marques de Velilla Joven 09,302 Walcott Street, Mt. Lawley W.A. 6050 Giribaldi Barolo 04, Valle Reale Vigne Nuove Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo 09, Phone: 9271 1179 Fax: 9370 3304 Ca Montini Pinot Grigio 09 Email: [email protected] May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 77

BEST OF THE WEST Paul Conti Tuart The Alchemists Margaret Vineyards Western River Merlot 2010 HHH TEMPTATION RESISTANT Australia Tempranillo An oak-driven wine with loads WINE CELLARING 2010 HHH1/2 of tannins and simple, plum/ Attractive, fresh cherry and cherry fruit intensity. $25 Your wine is a valuable raspberry fruit with hints of asset, too important to violets, lots of sweet oak and Woodgate Manjimup risk being ruined by some chalky tannins. $16 Merlot 2010 HHH poor storage. Happs Three Hills Soft fruit sweetness mingles Margaret River Malbec with earthiness, spices, light 2009 HHH1/2 tannins and acidity. $17 Chocolaty raisined aromas and warm, savoury palate with good Truffle Hill Pemberton level of spicy, black fruit flavours Merlot 2009 HHH and chalky tannins. $36 Modern, crowd-pleasing style Winston Lake Estate with youthful, berry fruit and Margaret River Classic good level of sweet oak. $20 Dry Red 2009 HHH1/2 Deep purple wine with youthful CABERNET confectionery, plum nose and BLENDS 2010 black fruit palate with some dark chocolate bitterness. $14.99 24 TASTED 15 AWARDED• Climate Controlled Jane Brook Plain Jane A mixed bag with lots of clean, Western Australia Classic well-made wines showing• 7 Day Access Red NV HHH nice fruit depth without green Developing leathery style overtones, and well-handled with juicy, plum fruit and some oak, while others tended to be oak sweetness. “A decent “stewy” or light bodied in flavour. drink!” $15• Alarmed & CCTV Amberley Secret Lane Paul Conti Roccella Margaret River Cabernet Western Australia Merlot 2010 HHHHH• Conveniently Located Grenache Shiraz 2011 HHH Described by one judge as a• 6 Cases up to Hundreds Easy drinking, commercial “top of the class cabernet”. style with sweet, upfront, Has a rich, lifted, perfectly confectionery fruit and gamey ripened, nose and generous notes. $16 cassis and plum flavours - wonderful freshness and good• No Handling Fees Mandoon Old Vine Swan level of oak. 5+ $19.99 Valley Grenache 2010 HHH A juicy, mid-weight wine Windance with good length of cherry/ Margaret River Cabernet• No Access Charges plum varietal fruit and gravelly Merlot 2010 HHHH1/2 tannins. $22 A well-weighted, ripe, forward, Happs Three Hills deep cherry red wine made for• No Fixed Contracts Margaret River early drinking. It is brimming Sangiovese 2009 HHHSydney Melbourne Nose reminiscent of roast over with loads of quality, cassisArtarmon Abbotsford Brisbane veggies with violet notes. Big, fruit with plenty of well-handledBrookvale Huntingdale Milton soft palate with big, soft, black oak to match. 5+ $22Camperdown Ivanhoe Newstead fruit flavours. $36Chatswood Port Melbourne West End SandalfordRozelle New Zealand MERLOT Margaret River CabernetWaterloo Mt Eden Adelaide Merlot 2010 HHHH Thebarton 10 TASTED A full-bodied wine with lovely, 4 AWARDED magenta hues and loaded withAustralia:1800 658 855 juicy, black fruit aromas andNZ: 0800 533 748 More lunch than dinner wines, flavours. Has good weight and these merlots offer good length. $18.99 drinking rather than thinking! www.kss.com.au Mandoon www.kennards.co.nz Element of Sandalford Margaret River Cabernet Western Australia Merlot Merlot 2010 HHH1/278 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012 2008 HHH1/2 A lovely, gentle, mid-range wine Very plumy style with nice with leafy, herbal elements tannin integration and ripe, backed up by ripe, Ribena-like chocolaty, oak characters. fruit. A nice drink. $24 Simple but balanced. $13.99

Evoi Wines The Satyr Rosenthal The Naomi regional tastingReserve Margaret River Blackwood ValleyCabernet Blend Cabernet Shiraz 2010 HHH Hong Kong’s Leading2010 HHH1/2 A big, oaky wine with plenty of Boutique Wine & Yachting“A cracker of a wine.” Big, juicy fruit to match. Needs timefull-bodied style with bags of to settle. 3-5 $26 Events Companyvarietal fruit flavours and well-handled oak to support. $42 Woody Nook Single Wine Tastings | Sailing ChartersBeach Head by Credaro Vineyard Margaret River Wine Cruises | Winemaker TalksMargaret River Cabernet Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHHMerlot 2010 HHH A soft, silky wine with good Team Building | Sail TrainingA medium bodied, leafy cabernet depth of varietal fruit. Cellar for Island Hopping Trips | Fine Wineswith earthy notes and lovely, a while. 3-5 $32perfumed elements. $19Legs Western Australia CABERNETCabernet Merlot BLENDS2010 HHH 2009 & OLDERA pretty, feminine wine withlovely, perfumed bouquet and 23 TASTEDconfectionery, sweet fruitpalate. $5 9 AWARDEDThe AlchemistsMargaret River Cabernet “Less of the bright fruit hereMerlot 2010 HHH and showing green fruitLovely, fresh, lifted varietal overtones” was the consensusfruit with classic, perfumed, of the judges. The best winescabernet elements on nose and showed nice varietal characterpalate. $19 and length - but choose wisely!Houghton Red ClassicWestern AustraliaCabernet Shiraz Merlot2010 HHHA big, juicy, generous winewith excellent oak handling,ripe berry fruit and savourytannins. $13.99Pitchfork Millbrook Fogs FollyMargaret River Cabernet Perth Hills CabernetMerlot 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHA big, ripe, powerful wine with A big full bodied wine witha slight porty nose and soft, an abundance of lovely ripeoaky palate. $16 dark fruit, citrussy oak andKnee Deep in silky smooth tannins. NiceMargaret River Cabernet mouthfeel. 5+ $45Merlot 2010 HHHNice earthy nuances on theplum nose, and good depth andcomplexity to the palate. $22Saracen Estates Evans & Tate Metricup Road MargaretMargaret River Cabernet River Cabernet MerlotMerlot 2010 HHH Contact us for some great sailingWell-balanced wine with 2009 HHH1/2 and fellowship in Hong Kong Good clean spirited commercialripe, red currant fruit, spicy cabernet blend offering good (topped off with some great wine).elements evident and sometoastiness. 3-5 $22 drinking now or has excellent cellaring potential. 5+ $22Fraser Gallop Estate Brown Hill Perseverance www.adelaidecellardoor.com.hkMargaret River Cabernet Margaret River Cabernet [email protected] 2010 HHH Merlot 2009 HHH1/2A pretty wine with dark, A well made wine with cassis www.hongkongyachting.comberry fruit nose and sweet, fruit, savoury oak, nice earthy [email protected] flavours. Give it time. tones and leathery notes sneaking in. $50 +852 2526 0151 3-5 $23 801, Tai Yau Building, 181 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 79

accomm • spaciou • televisio • Broadba • telepho • air cond • Bathroom • Bathrob • tea and • Persona • Hairdrye • Regenc RecReat • a 20m o court, ac the swan • Persona • ten worlWith views of the beautiful Swan “The hotel has a fresh, new look and With 16 event spaces available, of the hoRiver, newly refurbished guest the feedback we’ve received fromrooms, and award winning food and guests has been extremely positive. Hyatt is a popular choice for local RestaURbeverage facilities, Hyatt Regency We’re fortunate to be located on the and interstate company meetings.Perth is the preferred choice for picturesque Swan River and we are The three ballrooms can be • Joe’s orguests wanting a memorable able to offer guests amazing views of transformed into any theme required • cafe—reexperience or those staying in Perth Perth’s surrounding areas right from from weddings and gala dinners to • la stradon business or leisure. From the their rooms,” he said. breakfasts and conferences. With • the conmoment you step inside the hotel’s access to state of the art audio visual • Plain strimpressive lobby to the moment you “It is also just a short walkingleave, you will feel the warmth and distance to the CBD and many of technology and sound, Hyatt has thecharm of the Hyatt touch. Perth’s great shopping precincts, theatre and art galleries.” ability to enhance any event. Points oRefurbishments have been madethroughout the hotel with new The hotel has made just as much of Gershwin’s, the hotel’s premium • cotteslobathroom amenities and 42” high an impact for its great food as it has venue, has received extensive • fremantdefinition LCD TVs. Energy and for its accommodation. The award upgrades including new carpets, • Kings Pawater saving devices have also winning Cafe, now in the Gold Plate paintwork and lighting. It is now the • Perth mibeen implemented to compliment Hall of Fame after three consecutive hotel’s premium event space for • Perth Zothe hotel’s green initiatives. General wins, offers guests an interactive dining • RottnestManager of Hyatt Regency Perth, experience where they are able toAdam Myott, says the refurbishments watch the Chefs at work in the kitchen. groups up to 100 people and offers visitoR inare all part of the hotel’s commitment For a yearly fee guests are able to join three unique rooms for use. The • languagto provide guests with comfort, luxury Club at the Hyatt which entitles them to hotel’s purpose built meeting rooms • electricitand a superior experience overall. fantastic benefits and up to 50 percent off when dining with one or more guests are equipped with internet access, • currenc at Café or Joe’s Oriental Diner. Club at • visas: a the Hyatt members are also invited to overhead projectors and an audio should c exclusive events and promotions. The visual set up on request, ensuring that for up-to restaurant is also a keen supporter of every meeting or event held at Hyatt www.imm Western Australian wines, hosting Wine of the Month and featuring a variety of runs smoothly and efficiently. • climate: WA wines on the beverage menu. novemb “We strive to exceed expectations for Decemb every guest. No request is too big, and autumn: no detail is too small,” Mr Myott said. Winter: J

Hyatt Regency PeRtH 99 adelCaiadfeeterrace, Perth, WesternAlathuosutgrhapliared6o0m0in0antly a pan-to-plate restaurant, Cafe also telePHoonffeer+s 6A1la8C9ar2te2o5p1tio2n3s4, however many guests can not go facsimilpea+st6th1e8bu9ff3e2t e5xp8e8ri9e9nce at the deli where an abundance email peorftohy.srteegrse, [email protected] lay before you with freshly perth.remgaednecsya.hlaydas tot.nctohemside.moDation Diners can watch the Chefs at work in the interactive kitchenus, airy guestrooms and suites area as they skillfully prepare food and carve meat straight offon and in-house movies and internet, isD / stD phones the bone as requested.one RegencyThcelUdeBsert bar will undoubtedly bring out the inner-child inditioning • the Regevnecryyocnlueb; ™frelsohulnygme aisdaenweaxfcflelussiwveithoaicseis-csreetaomn,tchhee8etshefcloaokre m amenitiesbes and slippers of the hoatenld, omveorulososkei,nogr tthheebeevaeurtpifuolpsuwlaarnstRicivkeyr.dRaetelapxuwdhdiliengre.cIfeyivoinug first clascsasne’rtvmicaek, epruivpayteouker ymeidndli,ftita’sccbeessst atondtrycothmepmlimalel.ntary coffee,tempt yourd coffee-making facilities tea and biscuits all day. in the evening, enjoy drinks and canapés,al bar and refrigerator and wake in the morning to an indulgent deluxe continental breakfast, er, iron and ironing board includingJforeesh’sfruoit, rdeileicnioutsaplasDtriiens,ecrroissants and much more.taste budscyclub™ A fusion of South-East Asian flavours, Joe’s offers a uniquetional facilities seRvicesdi&ninfagceixlpiteireiesnce, particularly popular for group book-outdoor heated pool, sauna, fitness centre, floodlit tennis • express icnhgescfko-rinluanncdhcohredcikn-noeurt. The authentic style of Joe’s, with • Wirelessainbtearmnebtocoocnanneocptioynentrance, gives the restaurant a warmAT HYATTccess to squash courts, jogging and cycling paths around • 24 hour ianm-roboiemncdeinwinhgich is matched by its spicy dishes, all of which • Businessarceepnrterepared for in the lively open kitchen. With a choice of n River • complimpernetpaaryramtioonrnsintyglesshustutlcehtoasthseticr-iftryie(dw,eseokudpaybsa) sed, braised,al training and beauty treatments available • guest hiastnodryspteroagmreadm,meeacehnsduisrehswpilel rbseoncaolioskeeddsteorvthiceepreference of ld class golf-courses are located within a short drive • major creindditivcidarudasl gacuceespt’ste.dJoe’s also has a chilli coding system forotel • multilingeualcshtasfifgnature spicy dish and a love heart system for theRant, BaR & loUnge • Babysittihnegasrtehrveicaelthy, vegetarian delights, rice and noodle dishes. riental Diner—regional asian cuisine • Daily laundry and dry cleaning service estaurant with three interactive cooking stationsda—light meals and pastries • fvalolerist to,rnsPeewslfsBpaagr(ekPnintlgaandincasr htirreeet Bar)nservatory lounge Bar—light snacks and refreshments • reet Bar Welcoming, contemporary, and definitely not plain – PSB is the place to be for an after work refreshing beverage or a tasty bite to eat. With a fresh, new interior and an outdoor setting with landscaped surroundings, PSB offers fine crafted local and international beers and signature Champagne cocktails. Something of an urban oasis, PSB is the ideal place to relax, unwind and have a good time.of inteRest tRansPoRtationoe Beach tle • from the railway station: 2 km, ark Botanical gardens 5 minutes by car intoo • from Perth Domestic airport: 12 km, t island 20 minutes by car nfoRmation • from Perth international airport: ge: english 17 km, 25 minutes by car ty: 240v / 50 Hz cyclescy: australian Dollar (aUD) locationall visitors require visas and check with local travel agents • Hyatt Regency Perth is located ono-date requirements or visit the picturesque swan River, within mi.gov.au walking distance of the central retail, : spring: september – entertainment and business district.ber 10°c - 25°c summer: the hotel is also situated close tober – february 17°c - 31°c Perth’s major sporting venues and : march – may 12°c - 29°c tourist attractions. Walk just minutes June – august 9°c - 19°c along the river to Barrack street Jetty and a ferry will be waiting to take you to south Perth, fremantle or Rottnest island where some of the world’s finest beaches and bays are found*For more information or enquiries with Hyatt Regency Perth please visit perth.regency.hyatt.com 1.10

BEST OF THE WESTDeep Woods Estate CABERNET Hay Shed Hill Block 2 Heafod GlenMargaret River Cabernet SAUVIGNON 2010 Margaret River Cabernet Swan Valley CabernetMerlot 2009 HHH Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2Lifted aromas of Ribena 15 TASTED Plenty of ripe dense cassis fruit Intense complexity of sweet/and black olives with similar 13 AWARDED characters with some black savoury fruit aromas and a bigflavours on the full fleshy olive notes. Has lots of grippy core of classy, varietal flavours.palate. $32 A very consistent group of tannins, good oak and lifted by High in acid and wrapped in cabernets from a good vintage the acidity. $50 plenty of dry, grippy tannins. $35Fishbone Margaret River for the variety. “CarefulCabernet Shiraz Merlot cellaring over many years Hay Shed Hill Margaret Forester Estate Margaret2009 HHH will reward the consumer”, River Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet SauvignonA savoury wine smelling of suggested one judge. 2010 HHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2the forest floor with nicely Cassis and tobacco on the Distinctly cabernet with lovely,textured, medium bodied, Happs Margaret River nose and warm and fruity in the regional aromas of violets andpalate. 3-5 $15 Cabernet Sauvignon mouth. It’s dense and chewy tobacco. A medium-weight 2010 HHHH1/2 with a crisp acid spine. $25 palate, a real classic with goodFishbone Margaret River Lovely intensity of blackcurrant level of fruit with some lovely,Cabernet Sauvignon and mulberry fruit aromas with The Alchemists oak handling. $38Merlot 2009 HHH some bay leaf-like notes and Elixir Reserve Margaret Saracen Estates MargaretA solid commercial style. lots of rich juicy cassis fruit on River Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet SauvignonEarthy chocolaty aromas and the palate supported with a light 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2generous up-front fruit palate. nutty tannin structure. $25 Ripe raisiny aromas and sweet A well-put-together, youthful rhubarb flavours with a light number, with a lovely, rhubarb- 3-5 $20 Xander Estate Margaret tannin structure. $35 like bouquet and a grippy, River Cabernet Sauvignon tannic palate loaded with ripeSt Aidan Geographe 2010 HHHH1/2 Warner Glen Estate Frog plum fruit and plenty of crisp,Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH A closed but serious cabernet Belly Margaret River lively acidity. $40Earthy cassis aromas and nose. Palate shows excellent Cabernet Sauvignon Gilberts 3 Lads Mountchocolate/berry palate with concentration and great finesse 2010 HHH Barker Cabernetgrippy tannins. $24 with cedary blackcurrant Youthful floral/fruit aromas with Sauvignon 2009 HHHH flavours supported by powerful hint of mint. Palate is light, A sophisticated, savoury styleThompson Estate Andrea tannins and high acid. $22 elegant and well balanced. $18 with a complexity of aromasReserve Margaret River and a grippy, meaty palateCabernet Merlot 2008 HHH Swings & Roundabouts Paul Conti that’s lovely and soft in theSilky smooth wine for drinking Backyard Stories Margaret River Cabernet mouth. $23now with cassis fruit balanced Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH Mantra Wines Margaretby rich chocolaty oak. $45 Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Youthful red fruit aromas and River Cabernet SauvignonThird Wheel Reserve Oak driven aromas with ripe pleasant varietal flavours with 2009 HHHHMargaret River Cabernet plums sitting underneath and earthy/mushroomy notes. $20 Sweet, cherry nose and juicy,Shiraz 2009 HHH hints of mushrooms. Nice fruit fruity palate with nice mochaRefined and elegant with ripeness on the firm palate Hodskiss Estate elements, dusty tannins andnice earthy, leafy, cassis with good oak derived flavours, Margaret River Cabernet plenty of acid. Drink now or inand chocolate layers. plenty of tannins and acid. $39 Sauvignon 2010 HHH five years. $25 “Smells of Monte Carlo Moondah Brook Western 3-5 $19.99 Houghton Margaret biscuits”, said one judge. Australia Cabernet River Cabernet Sauvignon Tastes of sweet cherries and Sauvignon 2009 HHHH 2010 HHHH tobacco. $22 Meaty, prune-like aromas and A youthful elegant style with very well-structured palate lovely black fruit characters Woody Nook brimming over with very ripe, and forest floor-like elements. Gallagher’s Choice jubey fruit. It’s seamlessly Moderate tannins and plenty of Margaret River Cabernet balanced and complex. $15.99 acid. $18.99 Sauvignon 2010 HHH Full bodied wine with oak Warner Glen Estate derived aromas and good Margaret River Cabernet concentration of ripe black fruit Sauvignon 2010 HHHH flavours. $45 Leafy blackberry nose with a violet lift. Earthy barnyard CABERNET characters on the dry palate, SAUVIGNON 2009 plenty of acid and some moderate tannins. $25 30 TASTED 18 AWARDED Sandalford Estate Reserve Margaret River Cabernet Again another very strong class Sauvignon 2010 HHHH with more elegance than the A simple early drinking crowd 2010s. However, a few did show pleaser with sweet jubey some medicinal brett characters. varietal fruit, light tannins and An excellent cabernet year. a good backbone of oak to balance. $39.9582 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingEvans & Tate Lost LakeMetricup Road Margaret Pemberton CabernetRiver Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2009 HHH2009 HHHH Herbal nose with plenty ofA long, layered and quite oak. Plush tannins and crispsavoury style with plenty concentration of blackberryof plumy, prune fruit, plush flavours. $35integrated tannins andmoderate level of acidity. Drink Streicker Ironstone Blocknow. $22 Old Vine Margaret RiverWindance Reserve Cabernet SauvignonMargaret River Cabernet 2009 HHHSauvignon 2009 HHHH Cedary, tobacco bouquet withLovely concoction of classic hint of mint and a classic,black fruits, quality cedary oak cassis palate with grippyand good concentration of ripe tannins. $38.50tannins. Nice touch of forestfloor and tobacco. $40 Sandalford Estate ReserveLaurance Icon Margaret Margaret River CabernetRiver Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2009 HHH2009 HHHH A good wine with generousSmells of stewed rhubarb with core of plum fruit with mochablack olive elements. Sweet oak and ripe tannins. $39.95and juicy in the mouth withattractive, varietal flavours and Credaro Family Estatefine tannins. $42 Margaret River CabernetSandalford Sauvignon 2009 HHHPrendiville Reserve Nice touch of licorice on theMargaret River Cabernet berry nose and juicy palate.Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Good, early drinking. $40A serious cabernet that iscomplex, layered and chewy CABERNETwith powerful, savoury SAUVIGNONcharacters, well-integrated 2008 & OLDERtannins and moderate acid. $90Deep Woods 13 TASTEDEstate Reserve 10 AWARDEDMargaret River CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 The 2008 vintage was a classicLoads of oak sitting over the year for cabernet in WA andtop of some ripe, varietal fruit many of these wines showcharacters with significant, silky great character and are fortannins and high acid. $45 drinking now or offer furtherVita Novus ageing. These all showed niceMargaret River Cabernet oak handling blended withSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 classic, cabernet varietal fruit.Good cabernet/cassis fruithere with a dusting of oak Houghton Gladstonesand a light layering of acid and Margaret River Cabernettannins. $17 Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2Ring Bolt Very deep red, dark, seriousMargaret River Cabernet and incredibly concentratedSauvignon 2009 HHH cabernet with loads of chewy,Great fruit intensity, light earthy, cassis fruit perfectlytannins and high acid. Has balanced by the tannins andelegance with power. $19.95 acid. Minerally finish. A veryOlsen Charlotte’s Dance good wine. $69.99Margaret River CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHH Hutton Triptych MargaretElegant with all the essential River Cabernet Sauvignoningredients - classic, leafy/violet 2008 HHHH1/2nose and grippy, black, fruit A lovely, deep red wine withpalate. $29.95 a delightful nose of cassis and cedar, and an intense core of juicy, sweet, fruit flavours with savoury hints and notes of crushed herbs. $50 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 83

BEST OF THE WESTChalice Bridge The Chalice Houghton Ferngrove The Stirling SHIRAZ 2010Margaret River Cabernet Jack Mann Western Frankland River ShirazSauvignon 2008 HHHH Australia Cabernet Cabernet 2008 HHHH 27 TASTEDA big, serious blockbuster of Sauvignon 2008 HHH Inviting, lifted, minty, fruit aromas 16 AWARDEDa wine. Cassis aromas edged Attractive, youthful, plumy fruit and perfectly balanced, ripe fruitwith tarry, bitumen notes characters with crisp, zesty palate with loads of oak. Few A very good year for shirazand dense, ripe, fruit palate balance. Drink now style. $100 years left in it yet. 3-5 $60 and these showed high qualityintegrated with moderate across a number of styles,tannins and high acid. $55.95 Sittella Berns Reserve Evans & Tate Classic ranging from rich Swan ValleyChalice Bridge The Quest Margaret River Cabernet Margaret River Shiraz styles to cool-climate onesMargaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Cabernet 2010 HHH1/2 from the south. However,Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Loads of nice oak here Nice wine with good “the lesser wines sufferedSlight leafy herbal nose – balanced with a big, expansive, integration of the fragrant, from poor choice of oakvery attractive with flavours concentration of fresh, juicy, jubey fruit, chocolaty oak and additives,” observed one judge.of prune juice and sweet cabernet fruit. $38 moderate level of tannins. $18leather supported by greenishtannins. $25.95 SHIRAZ BLENDS Element of SandalfordForester Estate Western Australia ShirazYelverton Reserve 11 TASTED Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2Margaret River Cabernet 10 AWARDED Pleasant and easy drinkingSauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 with hints of menthol onLeafy, blackcurrant nose with A great result here showing the the Ribena nose and nicely-thread of sweet, vanillin oak consistency of blending shiraz structured, chocolaty palate.and soft, black fruit palate with with other varieties.nice zestiness and an herbal 3-5 $13.99edge. $60 Barking OwlSandalford Estate Western AustraliaMargaret River Cabernet Shiraz Viognier 2010 HHHSauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Smells of coffee andPowerful, leathery, tobacco chocolate with lovely, spicy,aromas. Dense, chewy, dried red currants filling the mouth.fruit palate with leathery notesand plenty of tannins. $39.95 5+ $17.95 Alkoomi Frankland River Saracen Estates Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2010 HHH Margaret River Shiraz Licorice and aniseed mix with 2010 HHHHH sweet cassis fruit on both nose A great nose showing plenty ofSandalford Prendiville and palate. Good drinking. $20.36 dark, jubey fruit and chocolatyReserve MargaretRiver Cabernet Sauvignon Woodgate Manjimup Matilda’s Estate Denmark oak. Big, youthful palate with2008 HHH1/2 Great Southern Shiraz lovely red fruits and deftlyBlackcurrant bouquet with lots Manjimup Shiraz Cabernet Cabernet 2009 HHH handled oak. Offers goodof oak. Palate has good fruit Merlot 2010 HHHH “A pretty, little, floral wine,”concentration, moderate tannins Leafy, cabernet characters said one judge. Smells like cellaring potential. 5+ $50and dry crisp acidity. $90 the forest floor; tastes ofHeydon Estate W.G Grace obvious on the nose with hints brambles. $18 Mandoon Old VineSingle Vineyard of earthy/spicy notes and fresh,Margaret River Cabernet blueberry flavours with fine, Swan Valley ShirazSauvignon 2005 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2Rich and complex with sweet, soft tannins. 3-5 $17 A big, brooding wine withstewed fruit characters and a Celestial Bay Margaretcrisp balance of acidity. $45 River Petit Verdot magnificent, dense, magenta Cabernet Sauvignon hues. Brimming over with Shiraz 2009 HHH dark, jubey, varietal fruit with a Smells like a blackberry pie! good punch from velvet-gloved With lovely mouthful of tannins. 5+ $22 complex, sweet, fruit flavours. Evans & Tate Gnangara 5+ $35 Western Australia Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 STAR RATINGS  Brown Hill Margaret River “A seriously enjoyable wine,” Shiraz Cabernet 2009 HHH thought one judge, withThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Warm, pleasant wine with a lovely, toasty, chocolatyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. a leathery/savoury nose and nose and perfectly-balanced,All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry lovely, rich palate. $50 blackberry fruit with excellentprofessionals and are compared in peer oak integration. $12classes by three judges. Millbrook EstateCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Perth Hills Shiraz Pitchfork Margaret Rivera major mail-order business. Viognier 2008 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHHCD Cellar door price. Simple, cedary aromas and a Nose described by one judgeCDO Cellar door only. complex, nicely-textured palate as: “A highly wound coil”.SO Sold out. with sweet, leathery fruit. $35 Lovely, upfront, fruit flavours$N/A Price not available at time of printing. and tannins with acid etching Contact information pg 160. the finish. 3-5 $16 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).84 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

WORLD’S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIPUBLIC TASTINGCome and join us for this fabulous event. Over 1,000 wines available to taste. $75 per ticket SUBSCRIBERS FREE A special draw will be held to taste select icon wines. Thursday 31 May, from 6pm-8.30pm, at the National Wine Centre, AdelaideTo book your tickets call Winestate 08 8357 9277 - Strictly limited number of tickets available

BEST OF THE WESTSandalford Margaret River Willoughby Park Denmark Vita Novus The Lake HouseShiraz 2010 HHHH Great Southern Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Denmark Frankland RiverLovely, luscious, blackberry and 2010 HHH Good, straightforward, Shiraz 2008 HHHlicorice aromas, and beautiful Spicy, savoury nose and lovely commercial style with spicy, Chocolaty nose with aniseedsweet and spicy fruit flavours spicy shiraz fruit palate with floral aromas and nice, red lift and sweet, red currantthat are underscored by velvety lingering oak characters. $24 berry palate with chocolaty flavours layered with moretannins. 5+ $18.99 complexity. 5+ $27 chocolate. $45 Credaro Family EstateWindance Margaret River Margaret River Shiraz Brygon Reserve Mirror SWEET WHITEShiraz 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Image Margaret River & FORTIFIEDA generous, chocolaty wine with Lifted, perfumed, spicy Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2dark fruit nose and a “surprise bouquet with a balanced, A precise, clean and well- 13 TASTEDin the mouth”, with ripe, warm, medium-bodied palate. Easy structured wine with jubey 5 AWARDEDblackberry pie flavours and soft drinking wine. $35 fruit and soft tannins, andtannins. 5+ $22 cool climate spicy/peppery Some very nice wines for the Saracen Estates Margaret elements. $14.99 sweet-tooth. A good balanceXabregas Mount Barker River Shiraz 2010 HHH between the sugar, acid andShiraz 2010 HHHH Quite a perfumed nose and Palandri The Estates alcohol. Those wines notA pleasant wine sitting more up-front, cherry and plum Margaret River Shiraz reviewed generally lacked thein the spicy spectrum with flavours with nice, spicy hints. 2009 HHH required intensity.simple, mulberry fruit and Ripe satsuma plum-like varietalupfront tannins, and a delicate 5+ $35 fruit and plenty of spicy, Truffle Hilltouch of oak. 5+ $25 chocolaty oak to balance. $27 Reserve Pemberton SHIRAZ 2009 Cane Cut RieslingPaul Conti Marginiup Brookland Valley 2011 (375ml) HHHH1/2Western Australia Shiraz 34 TASTED Verse 1 Margaret River Very intense and lifted2010 HHHH 11 AWARDED Shiraz 2009 HHH honeyed, marmalade-like aromas - zesty and bright withA well-made wine with plums, “An underwhelming class Sweet wine with oak-derived a luscious, ripe, oily palate withspices and chocolate on the for the variety,” agreed the chocolate and cigar-box lovely acidity that cuts throughnose and sweet, juby, fruit judges. These are generally aromas, and perfumed, fruit the sweetness and gives it aflavours with vanillin oak forward wines ready for flavours. 5+ $19.99 citrus tang. $24creeping through. 5+ $28 drinking now with soft tannins. The best had acid structure Barton Jones Gralyn Estate MargaretSandalford Estate Reserve and vibrancy of fruit. The Big Wig Geographe River Pedro XimenezMargaret River Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH NV (375ml) HHHH2010 HHHH A nice, long, clean varietal with A young style, but has intensityAttractive nose with dark berry a good balance between the and balance, and shows lovelyfruit and some good oak lurking. fruit and the oak. $25 Christmas cake and sweetSolid palate with ripe, black, Upper Reach Reserve marmalade characters with Shiraz 2009 HHHHH crisp acid to balance. $55jubey fruit balanced by some A well-made wine with great Jane Brookclassy oak. 5+ $33.95 Back Block Swan Valley Swings & Roundabouts depth of purple hues. Gorgeous Shiraz 2009 HHH Cane Cut Western Australia nose - all spicy and alluring with A big wine with loads of oak, Sweet White NV HHHThird Wheel Reserve big, ripe, jubey fruit flavours but it is well-matched by the Bright, lively, sweet, citrusMargaret River Shiraz sweet, varietal fruit. $25 peel nose and a rich balance2010 HHH1/2 layered with some fantastic of intense, honeycomb quality oak. 5+ $32 flavours. $29Earthy, leathery aromas and awarm, plumy/licorice palate with Brown Hill Fimiston Gralyn Estateplenty of oak influence and nice, Evans & Tate Metricup Reserve Margaret River Margaret River Tawny Road Margaret River NV (375ml) HHHpeppery notes. 5+ $19.99 Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Very interesting with lots Leathery/Old Spice-like of young, bright spirit andRosenthal Richings A solid, commercial style with a aromas with great palate lingering, nutty complexity ofBlackwood Valley Shiraz melange of sweet, ripe, prune- flavours. $452010 HHH1/2 like fruit, chocolaty/mocha oak structure and showing ripe,A velvety, soft, full-flavoured varietal fruit. 5+ $30 Third Wheel Margaretwine with a somewhat brooding and there is certainly plenty of River Moscato 2011 HHHnose and a long, lingering, acid in the mix. 5+ $22 Nose showing attractivemedium-weight palate. $26 SHIRAZ varietal florals and very well- Ferngrove Dragon 2008 & OLDER balanced, sweet, succulent,Moondah Brook Western Shiraz 2009 HHHH fruit flavours. $14.99Australia Shiraz 2010 HHH A pretty, purple wine with 6 TASTEDVery Rhone-like. Floral, spicy aromas of black olives,nose and spicy, blackberry chocolate and licorice with 2 AWARDEDflavours. Floral notes following similar characters echoed onthrough. $15.99 the spicy, succulent palate. $30 “Oldies, but not necessarily goodies,” said one judge. AtBeach Head by Credaro Howard Park Scotsdale their peak or over! But thereMargaret River Shiraz Great Southern Shiraz were a couple drinking well.2010 HHH 2009 HHH1/2A pleasant wine with earthy/ Clean, blackberry fruit bouquet Green Valley Vineyardleafy aromas and simple palate and some pleasant, chocolaty, Gelignite Block Margaretwith good, oak/fruit balance. $19 fruit flavours with soft tannins River Shiraz 2008 HHH on the well-balanced palate. $45 A nice wine with some pretty, dark jube fruit and attractive, perfumed elements filtering through. $3086 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tasting AUSTRALIAPerth May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 87

WINE EXPERTS FLOAT THEIR VIEWS ABOUT WINE SHIELD.HBT/WPR081/W/DPS

Wine Shield keeps wine fresh by dramatically slowing the oxidation process that spoils opened wine. Because taste and aroma is retained, wine experts are among its biggest fans. “I’ve trialed Wine Shield on many Riesling’s, Pinot Noir’s and Grenache’s, varieties that traditionally oxidizes very easily. I found I could keep bottles opened for 5 to 8 days without any loss of fruit purity or palate structure. I even tested Wine Shield over 45 days on a bottle of California Syrah and the wine barely budged over the journey. Before I was pouring many bottles out and that was a real waste. We are even using them in our tasting room in Burgundy, France and the results have been amazing. We have seen an immediate lift in sales as we are able to taste our Premier and Grand Cru wines on a regular basis, which was previously not possible. It’s a truly brilliant invention that adds value to every bottle you open”. Michael Twelftree Proprietor, Two Hands Wines, South Australia. “We always have about 14 wines available by the glass. Because Wine Shield is a single use device, it appealed to me. I know with gas you can’t be sure if it’s even been done. Wine Shield is such a simple solution and it works. Once it becomes part of your practise, wastage becomes virtually nil”. Anthony Jones Founder of The Deanery Restaurant and Wine Bar, Melbourne. “Wine Shield sits like a little seal on the top of your wine. It’s actually better, believe it or not, than the air preservation systems – whether it’s the sparging systems or the vacuum type systems. It costs about 25 cents per unit, but it will literally hold the wine brilliantly for about 4-5 days without any change whatsoever. I highly advocate it. If it’s an expensive bottle of wine, it keeps it better, integrity-wise than anything I’ve worked with.”. Emily Wines Master Sommelier, Wine Director Kimpton Hotels, San Francisco.www.wineshield.comOrder from our distributors or direct, visit our website and keep your wine tasting fresh – right to the last glass.

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN NSWGRAZING ON FINE FARE TEMPTING TAPAS HISTORIC CELLAR DOORTHE NEW cafe and epicurean centre FANCY SOME tapas and a couple of TOM WARD’S Swinging Bridge winery isat Capital Wines, in Gundaroo, should glasses of wine? Lowe Wines, at Mudgee, one of the most forward thinking in regionalbe open any day now but the one-site is serving open-air tapas on Friday and NSW and recently opened its first cellarGrazing restaurant is going great guns Saturday evenings with winemaker David door at the historic Canowindra Finnsunder new chef Kurt Neumann. Located Lowe pouring and talented cook Kim Currie Store. The general store was opened inin the historic Royal Hotel, Grazing is an cooking up some delightful taste sensations. 1874 by Ward’s great-great grandfatheraward-winning restaurant with a focus on The Lowe cellar door – which is now also T.J. Finn. It was run as a general storethe best of the Canberra district’s food and selling a range of vintage releases – is a and until the mid 1970s and now haswine. The restaurant has extensive kitchen constant hive of activity with an ongoing been lovingly restored by Geoff andgardens which provide fresh, organically calendar of lunches, dinners, wine schools, Jacqui Yeo. The cellar door also includesgrown, heirloom vegetables and fruit for new release parties and special tastings. a coffee outlet using Bills Beans, from Orange, and sells teas and a range of condiments. There is also antique furniture as well as other bric-a-brac and an art gallery. The tasting facility is open 11am- 6pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, although Finns Store is open Wednesday- Monday 10am-4pm. Bridge Wines are also available at The Quarry, outside Cowra, and at Taste Canowindra, which is open daily from 10am-4pm and serves lunches from noon-2pm. The Swinging Bridge cellar door is at 35 Gaskill St, Canowindra.the menus. “Our philosophy with food is In April, last year, the winery celebrated BOWLED OVER IN BOWRALsimple: we aim to serve good size portions its 10th birthday with 112 people sharingof great food, made with the freshest a 20-wine, 10-course meal prepared by THE SOUTHERN Highlands are oftenpossible ingredients,” says Neumann. five chefs. The event was such a success overlooked as a weekend wine destination“We don’t serve anything too fussy, just that it will be repeated on April 28 and in in favour of Orange, Mudgee or Cowra, butcombinations of flavours and textures that subsequent years. The event will be known there are several interesting cellar doors andappeal to the senses.” To complement the as the Lowe Vintage Birthday Lunch. There a number of excellent hotels. The legend ofmenu, the restaurant offers an extensive are also regular Winemaker’s Table events Sir Donald Bradman lives on in his homelist of Capital and Kyeema wines, as well at Lowe when a table is set down the middle town of Bowral at the new Internationalas a selection from other regional stars. of the winery and guests are expected to Cricket Hall of Fame, incorporating theWith the opening of the new facility, mingle over the food and wines. The platters Bradman Gallery, and Peppers Craigieburnvisitors will be able to choose between for sharing are prepared by Currie and are is offering superb boutique accommodationGrazing and a more casual eating described as “rustic, seasonal and wherever packages, including tickets to the cricketingexperience at the Café Cellar Door, or an possible from the Tinja property”. Remaining shrine. Just five minutes drive from Peppersepicurean wine and food tasting. Food dates for 2012 are: May 19, June 16, July 21, Craigieburn, adjacent to Bradman Oval, thechoices include a range of platters and August 18, September 8, 15, 22 and 29 and International Cricket Hall of Fame offers andishes like grilled chorizo and haloumi October 20. The September events are part interactive trip through the evolution of thewith lemon extra vigin olive oil; and of Mudgee’s “Celebration Month”, during game – an experience not to be missed forsalmon and mushroom crepes with a which Lowe will also be conducting mini wine cricket lovers or cricket widows alike. Visitorscrisp salad. On-site wine masterclasses schools 5-6pm every Wednesday for $20. can enjoy the Peppers Craigieburn Bradmanare also planned; phone (02) 6236 8777, Lowe Wines is at Tinja Lane, Mudgee; phone Experience from $199 per room per night,www.capitalwines.com.au. (02) 6372 0800 www.lowewine.com.au. including buffet breakfast in Montfort’s dining room for two people plus two tickets to the Sir Bradman International Cricket Hall of Fame, a90 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

travelbriefsBradman DVD and an Endota gift. Originally ORANGE BLOSSOMS grown produce accompanied by a selectionbuilt in 1887, Craigieburn offers luxury of the region’s best wines and there is an alaccommodation and signature restaurant THERE IS plenty of activity in Orange, one of fresco area with an open fireplace for winterMontfort’s, which overlook picturesque the food and wine epicentres of the Central wine tasting, along with a dedicated loungegardens and a private nine-hole golf course. West, with a “serious” new restaurant joining area for pre- or post-dinner drinks. SeeMany of Craigieburn’s 72 rooms feature the likes of Lolli Redini, Racine, Bistro Ceello www.rockinghorselounge.com. Meanwhile,views of the golf course and landscaped and the modern Asian flavours of Sweet Gordon Hills Estate (formerly Burke and Hillsgardens, while premium accommodation Sour Salt. The former Harrisons Restaurant but now owned by Noel and Margie Gordon)opens on to a spacious verandah – and the is now known as Eighteen 70 and is run by has applied for planning permission for ahotel is within 1 hours’ drive of Sydney and three enthusiastic locals who describe their new cellar door and the Byng Street store,Canberra. For bookings phone (02) 4862 food as “contemporary country fusion”. All which opened late last year, has opened8000 or email [email protected]. produce is sourced locally where possible another store in the “Wellness House” onThe $199 offer is valid until June 30. and there are vegetarian and gluten-free the Bathurst side of town. The operators of Bill’s Beans have also opened a new cafeMUDGEE MAGIC options available. The wine list features in Kite St called Factory Espresso. local standouts like Bloodwood, Brangayne,MUDGEE HAS new luxury accommodation Angullong, Swinging Bridge and others – LOCAL PRODUCEfollowing the opening of the new de Russie there are 85 to choose from with another AT ITS BESTSuites facility – a sister operation to the 20 popular national wines available. Localpopular Orange hostelry. Located close to artworks decorate the walls and Eighteen MUDGEE HAS a new gourmet hotspot inthe Mudgee CBD, de Russie Suites offers a 70 is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Market Street Cafe. This funky, French-choice of 13 suites, incorporating studios, Menu choices include black sesame influenced cafe specialises in dishesspa studios, one- and two-bedroom suites crusted kingfish with glass noodles, wilted utilising local produce and bakes its ownand The Blue Room (penthouse suite). Built choy sum and ginger lemongrass broth; fig sourdough bread. Young chef Aaron Cole’swithin the historic 1865 Mechanics Institute, and honey stuffed spitchcock with mashed menu changes daily depending on what isthe property is a self-contained apartment kumara and wilted spinach; and pork fresh but the local Ormiston pork rillettes knuckle roasted with baby vegetables and with house-made pickles, sourdough andsuite hotel decorated in a modern style with apple aioli. For the truly hungry there is beef Dijon mustard are always a hit, as are thea German influence. The accommodation rib on the bone. Eighteen 70 Restaurant is Merriwa steak sandwiches. Locals ravesuites all have king beds, flat screen TVs, at 85 March St, Orange; phone (02) 6361 about the desserts, too. “My passion forAustar, mini bars and kitchens, while 9020. www.eighteen70.com.au. Also new food lies in the French country style ofsome have balconies or a spa bath. in Orange is The Rocking Horse Lounge at cooking so I always think about the ideaA complimentary light breakfast is included 211 Byng St, operated by mother and son of the French farmhouse,” Cole says. “Thein tariffs. de Russie Suites Mudgee is at team Jenny and Pete Bevan. It is open for food I love resembles that which would bethe corner of Perry and Gladstone streets, lunch Tuesday-Friday and dinner Tuesday- gathered in the day and prepared for theMudgee; phone (02) 6372 7650. Saturday. The a la carte menu features locally family in the evening. I think of our region as my farmhouse.” Local produce on the menu includes Ormiston free range pork and Galletti free range eggs, Mudgee- grown tomatoes and mint, Frog Rock basil, South Mudgee honey, Merriwa lamb and beef, Gilgandra chemical- and hormone- free chicken and Bathurst peaches. The Market Street Cafe is open Thursday- Monday 7am-6pm and is at 79 Market St, Mudgee; phone (02) 6372 0052. Left: Peppers Craigieburn boutique accommodation. Right: de Russie Suite, Mudgee. Opposite page Left: Grazing Restaurant in the Royal Hotel. Right: Lowe Wines, dining in the vines. May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 91

142 TASTED109 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN NSWThis is by far the best quality and consistent result we Cuttaway Hill Coolangatta Estate Estatehave seen from this “greater NSW” region. It is very Southern Highlands Grown Shoalhaven Coastpleasing to see that winemakers have got the message Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH Savagnin 2011 HHHHthat the region produces enough grape tannins by itself Lemon sherbet nose with a A light, delicate and nicelyand doesn’t need excess oak tannins to add to the perfumed lift. A light but well- made wine. Smells of pearsmix. Good vintages from 2011 and 2010, and good balanced crisp, lemon palate and has mouthcoating lemonwinemaking means that the consumer can be confident with some nice complexity flavours with good level andin bringing great quality wines from the region. developing. Good acidity. $25 balance of acidity. $22 Cooks Lot Orange Pinot Gris 2011 HHH1/2 A good food wine with slight honeyed pear bouquet. Good varietal characters on the palate with excellent acid. $20SPARKLING Clearview Estate Mudgee Centennial Vineyards Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH Woodside Bowral Pinot8 TASTED A big, solid wine smelling of Grigio 2011 HHH1/27 AWARDED mulberry jam. Big tannic palate Light pear bouquet and simple, but plenty of fruit to match. $22 soft palate with appley flavoursAn excellent class of fresh and gentle acidity. $22and lively white sparklings androsés,with the reds needing Centennial Bowral Burnbrae Mudgeea little more weight and Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH Pinot Gris 2011 HHHstructure but never-the-less A fruit nose with an earthy Nose verging on tropical withstill offering good drinking touch. Big, dry style with some pear-like flavours and good acidfrom good winemakers. nice tannins. $25 balance. $18Centennial Bowral Pinot Centennial Limited OTHER The Willow Lane MudgeeChardonnay NV HHHH1/2 Southern Highlands Blanc WHITE VARIETALS Viognier 2010 HHHHHoneyed complexity on the de Blancs NV HHH Strong apricot and citrusnose with a nice balance Honey and caramel on the nose 8 TASTED characters on the nose andbetween the varietal fruit, aged and some honeyed, bottle aged clean, apricot fruit flavours withcharacters and acidity on the flavours. Good acid. $35 6 AWARDED a hint of phenolics and goodfuller-style palate. $28 acidity. Needs food. $23 Windowrie Family Great to see a range of different di Lusso Estate MudgeeCentennial Brut Rosé Reserve Orange Sparkling varietals with the potential for Vermentino 2011 HHH1/2Bowral NV HHHH Chardonnay 2011 HHH the region to do these different Light, simple and clean foodA classic rosé style. Attractive, Subtle green apple aromas wines styles well. wine. Hints of green apple oncoppery/salmon pink with with perfumed/floral touch the minerally nose and soft andstrawberry aromas and and a crisp, fresh, green apple Windowrie The Mill savoury in the mouth. $23interesting flavour profile. palate. $24.99 Central Ranges Verdelho Burnbrae MudgeeOffers very good drinking. $28 2011 HHHH1/2 Viognier 2010 HHH1/2 PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO A youthful, straightforward Floral bouquet with apricot-likeCuttaway Hill Laurence style that’s clean, crisp and varietal characters. ApricotCuvee Prestige Brut 7 TASTED light. Good tropical-like aromas palate has lovely, punchy acid-Southern Highlands 4 AWARDED on the vibrant nose and fresh, tingles all over the mouth! $20Sparkling Chardonnay flavoursome and zingy in the Coolangatta Estate EstatePinot Noir NV HHHH Interesting class of different mouth. Good food wine. $16.99 Grown Shoalhaven CoastLifted nose with yeasty, aged styles ranging from the crisp Verdelho 2011 HHHcharacters. Creamy in the and lean to the ripe and oily. Light tropical bouquet and loadsmouth with some honeyed “This varietal involves the of fruit on the lively palate. Goodaged characters developing. winemaking craft of using backbone of acid. $20Good drinking now. $32 pressings to add skin contact flavours and management of acid through picking times.92 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingSAUVIGNONBLANC & BLENDS9 TASTED2 AWARDEDThere were vintage issues but acouple of wines showed aboveaverage qualities. “Nice to seesome work going on aroundthe edges with winemakingtechniques,” said one judge.Southern Highland Wines Our premier selection.Oldbury Reserve Southern Hand-crafted in exceptionalHighlands Sauvignon vintages from our single vineyardBlanc 2011 HHHH estate in high-elevation Orange.Grassy green nose and crisp,balanced, well-textured Top 100 Wine Top 10 ofpalate with good length and Australian Wine Competition andpersistence of lovely tropical fruit Vintages 2012 Gold Medal Syrahflavours. Good acid spine. $28 du Monde 2011Centennial Vineyards Robert Stein Half DryWoodside Bowral RS15 Mudgee RieslingSauvignon Blanc 2011 HHHH2011 HHH1/2 A softer style of riesling withPungent combination of grassy a touch of the tropics on thearomas with gooseberry fruit slightly subdued nose. Pleasantand a meaty, savoury palate palate - slightly sweet. Verywith some fruit salad notes. $22 well made wine. $25RIESLING Diamond Creek Estate Southern Highlands6 TASTED Riesling 2011 HHH4 AWARDED A hint of honeysuckle on the nose; clean, crisp and youthful“This group reflects the 2011 in the mouth. Needs time. $20wet and cold vintage with, asa result, the acid tending to Robert Stein Mudgeedominate the fruit,” thought one Riesling 2011 HHHjudge. One outstanding older Beautiful floral nose with citrusvintage showing the potential of lift and upfront citrus flavoursthe region for this variety. on slightly oily palate. $30 SEMILLON & BLENDS 8 TASTED 8 AWARDEDTertini Southern Highlands One producer presentedRiesling 2008 HHHHH seven out of the eight winesDeveloped golden hues and reviewed here and what aelegant perfumed nose with great experience of howlively lift of limes. Palate shows semillon improves with age.beautiful mix of floral fruit, A master class in how theacid and some residual sugar. varietal should be made.A lovely wine that’s ageingbeautifully. $38 facebook.com/cumulusestatewines twitter.com/cumuluswines www.cumuluswines.com.au May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 93

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWCoolangatta Estate De Beaurepaire Captain Clearview Estate Cumulus WinesEstate Grown Alexander Starlight Series Central Church Creek Mudgee Climbing OrangeBerry Shoalhaven Coast NSW Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2Semillon 2005 HHHHH Blanc 2011 HHH Pronounced toasty oak nose; Tight and light and crisp withSeven years old and it’s Uncomplicated crowd pleaser. some stone fruit and honey. a balance of mineral elementsstill a baby! Greenish nose Sweet perfumed nose with Big, creamy, smooth palate with and some leesy characters.with toasty, honeyed notes. grassy notes and clean, fresh good acid lift to keep it fresh. Good food wine. $22Elegant, well-balanced palate palate. $18 Nice example of style. $18 Diamond Creek Estatewith tight acid backbone. Brangayne of Orange Cool Climate Southern“Needs another 10 years,” Coolangatta Estate Isolde Orange Chardonnay Highlands Chardonnayaccording to one judge. $40 Individual Vineyard 2010 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2Coolangatta Estate Estate Wollstonecraft Smells of stonefruits layered Restrained perfumed oakGrown Shoalhaven Coast Shoalhaven Coast with leesy/mineral elements. bouquet and lean and elegantSemillon 2008 HHHH1/2 Semillon 2011 HHH Lovely oak characters over light palate looking good and stillStill youthful nose in the green A riper style of semillon with stonefruit and citrus flavours. has nice freshness. $20spectrum of aromas with slight honeyed aromas and Good acidity. $30 Centennial Vineyardsa touch of honey and toast good length of green apple Centennial Vineyards Reserve Single Vineyarddeveloping. Tight and lean palate fruit. $25 Woodside Winery Bowral Chardonnaywith powerful acid backbone. Block Bowral Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2Give it another 5-8 years. $25 Coolangatta Estate Estate 2009 HHHH Golden wine with honeyedCoolangatta Estate Estate Grown Shoalhaven Coast A soft and complex aromas and “fragrances ofGrown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2010 HHH chardonnay with a touch of the sea”. Honeyed bottleSemillon 2006 HHHH1/2 Citrussy fruit with a touch aged honeyed-like characters age obvious on the complexLooks younger than it actually of toasty, honeyed aged developing and exhibiting good palate. $30is. Still slightly closed nose characters developing. Long overall balance. $23 Sutton Forest Estatewith estery complexity. Crisp and balanced. $25 Windowrie The Mill Wines Hand Pickedpalate ageing beautifully with Central Ranges Southern Highlandsheaps more cellaring potential CHARDONNAY Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2011 HHHleft in it yet. $45 Delicate stonefruit bouquet with Lovely savoury oakCoolangatta Estate 17 TASTED light touch of oak. Good flavour characters here with ripe,Individual Vineyard 14 AWARDED profile - almost chablis-like. Give varietal fruit underneath andWollstonecraft it another 2-3 years. $16.99 good acid spine. $24Shoalhaven Coast Great class of consistently Windowrie FamilySemillon 2009 HHHH strong wines. “It is fantastic to Reserve CanowindraA youthful, fuller style with see the change away from the Chardonnay 2011 HHHgood varietal fruit, greenish heavily charred oak/malo-lactic A simple, fresh style with lightacid and balancing phenolics. wines of the past to these minerally characters on noseGive it 5-7 years for it to really crisper fruit-intense styles,” and palate with good level ofshine. $25 noted one judge. acid. $24.99Coolangatta Estate EstateGrown Shoalhaven Coast Cuttaway Hill SouthernSemillon 2011 HHH1/2 Highlands ChardonnayZesty nose; smells of green 2010 HHHHapples and has a green apple Lovely nose - full and fruitypalate high in acid. Needs with a generous, flavoursomeanother 6 - 8 years before palate that lingers on long afterdrinking. $25 the wine has gone. Good level of acid. Needs time. $20JUDGES Bloodwood Orange Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Complex, savoury chardonnay with leesy aromas and soft and fruity on the mouth. Has complexity with some residual sugar. Needs food. $27Julia Conchie Stephen Knight Stephen DoyleWinemaker and 20 years’ experience in the wine Winemaker/proprietorvineyard manager and hospitality industries ranging for Bloodwood wines.for di Lusso Wines from hands-on involvement Associate judge for NSWin Mudgee. Has also in wineries, experience as a shows. Topped wineworked a vintage at state sales manager, managing appreciation course atPoet’s Corner Wines. wine retail stores, and setting Australian Wine ResearchAssociate judge at the up and running restaurants. He Institute in 2002. HasMudgee wine show. is at present a freelance wine conducted 26 vintages consultant, wine educator, writer around Australia. and presenter both in Australia and overseas.94 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingCentennial Vineyards di Lusso EstateWoodside Old Block Bowral Vino Mudgee RosatoChardonnay 2010 HHH 2011 HHH1/2Rich, caramel/butterscotch A drier, savoury style witharomas and nice buttery palate subtle, boiled lolly nose - awith the acid to balance. $20 touch herbal. And tight andChalkers Crossing lean in the mouth $18Tumbarumba Chardonnay2010 HHH PINOT NOIRWoody characters cover thesimple varietal fruit with some 8 TASTEDcrisp, lean acidity. $25Ross Hill Pinnacle Series 6 AWARDEDOrange NSW Chardonnay2010 HHH Some pleasing results here Brangayne of OrangeChunky, oak-driven nose and with the judges pleasantly Orange Pinot Noirbig, buttery oaky palate. Old surprised to find that 2010 HHHH1/2style of chardonnay. $35 winemakers have pulled back Dense, oaky nose showing from the bitter and extracted plenty of sweet berry fruit toROSÉ wines of the past and are now match. Lovely firm and well- producing much better wines. balanced, ripe, berry fruit palate3 TASTED perfectly matched with the nice,2 AWARDED old, spicy oak characters. $30A small class but a couple of Robert Stein Mudgee Tertini Southern Highlands Southern Highland Winesexcellent examples. Rosé 2011 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH1/2 Oldbury Reserve A vibrant, pale pink wine with A lovely pinot - savoury and Southern Highlands Pinot lovely red berry/strawberry balanced with lifted perfumed Noir 2010 HHH1/2 bouquet. A very long, full- blackcurrant-like fruit, good oak, The nose is all earthy and flavoured raspberry palate excellent palate structure and meaty - the palate is balanced that’s not too sweet - just right appropriate gamey elements and savoury with good profile with good level of acidity. $15 adding complexity. $55 of ripe fruit flavours. $32BID ONLINE. BUY ONLINE. LEARN ONLINETry something new, something different, something boutique...Something exclusive... Grapescape Wines also offers a dedicated members area, where you can add andIntroducing Grapescape Wines - a new online marketplace for Australian boutique wines. share tasting notes with other membersQuality wines you won’t find on major sites or through more traditional outlets. and manage your online cellar andGrapescape Wines are offering only the best quality Australian wine through: purchase history.BID NOW live auctions where you can find a great deal or bid on limited releases Next time you attend a dinner partyBUY NOW browse listings of some of the best wine this country has to offer or social engagement, make sure you bring along one of Australia’sTo view our full range, visit: www.grapescapewines.com best boutique wines from grapescapewines.comwww.grapescapewines.com May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 95

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWCooks Lot Mudgee Quilty Silken Thread de Mestre Wines Crudine CABERNET& Orange Pinot Noir Mudgee Petit Verdot Central Ranges Cabernet SAUVIGNON2010 HHH 2010 HHH Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2A firm, lean and green pinot - Big tannic wine - good example Nicely aged, meaty/minty 17 TASTEDplenty of tannin. Burgundian in of style with light, minty red aromas. Soft in the mouth with 14 AWARDEDstyle. Needs time. $20 fruit. $22 a lovely, developed, chocolaty/Cuttaway Hill Quilty Silken Thread licorice palate layered with Very strong, consistent classSouthern Highlands Single Vineyard Mudgee minty and black peppery which surprised the judges.Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Petit Verdot 2009 HHH elements. $30 “Inappropriate oak and poorLeafy and gamey on the nose A dense red with tight, dark, viticulture are a thing of the past,”with a minty lift and a simple, chocolaty nose and a firm said one judge. “Great stuff.”opulent fruit palate. $25 palate with light fruit. $22Diamond Creek Estate Coolangatta Estate Estate Burnbrae Clive Gale De Beaurepaire VictorCool Climate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Mudgee Merlot Cabernet Rylstone Mudgee CabernetSouthern Highlands Tempranillo 2009 HHH Sauvignon Petit Verdot Sauvignon 2006 HHHHHPinot Noir 2008 HHH A long, firm, well-made wine 2008 HHHH1/2 A lovely, youthful red with aLean and tight with good with nicely balanced, vibrant, A good, solid, well-structured touch of wintergreen on thesweet fruit weight and plenty youthful, earthy red fruit. $35 blend with some nice aged nose and a firm structure toof well-handled oak. $20 characters. Light fruit and the chocolaty palate. Has some MERLOT & BLENDS pencil shaving-like oak on the lovely varietal fruit matchedOTHER RED nose and complexity of flavours with elegant tannins. NeedsVARIETALS 5 TASTED with a touch of sweetness. $25 more time in the cellar. $29 3 AWARDED di Lusso Estate il Palio Quilty Running Stitch8 TASTED Sangiovese Barbera Single Vineyard Rylstone7 AWARDED A small but promising class Cabernet Sauvignon Mudgee Cabernet of very good stand-alone Mudgee 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2010 HHHH“Consistently strong group.” merlots. Well done from this A firm, earthy style with a A rich mix of varietal berry fruitWinemaking from the small difficult variety. very spicy nose and nicely- and oak aromas with a lovely,wineries has improved developed, savoury fruit long, savoury palate showingdramatically,” said one judge. De Beaurepaire Captain flavours. Good food wine. $26 a touch of sweetness and aLots of interest here. Starlight Series Rylstone Robert Stein Reserve woody finish. $28 NSW Merlot Cabernet Petit Mudgee Cabernetdi Lusso Estate Mudgee Verdot 2009 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon ShirazBarbera 2010 HHHH Subtle, savoury nose with 2009 HHH1/2Subtle, red fruit fragrances slight green edge. Velvety A ripe, well-structured style- some attractive old oak. smooth flavoursome palate with with upfront berry fruits andSoft cherry palate has excellent structure, length and just the right amount of lightlylength and structure with texture and nice balance of firm, charred oak characters. $55good acid backbone. Very dark, chocolaty flavours. $20 di Lusso Estate Vino Rossoapproachable. $26 Mudgee 2007 HHH1/2 Swinging Bridge Orange A soft, earthy blend with niceRoss Hill Pinnacle Series Merlot 2010 HHHH mix of spices and black jubeyOrange NSW Cabernet A good merlot with dusty/slightly fruit on the well-structuredFranc 2010 HHHH tobacco-like characters on the palate. $18A surprisingly good drink with nose and a firm and grippy palate Cumulus Wines Rollinga minty/tomato leaf nose and with good level of tannins. Just Central Ranges Caberneta well-structured licorice-like needs more time. $23 Merlot 2010 HHHpalate with some subtle oak Subdued nose - slight tobaccocharacters. $40 Windowrie The Mill element. Smooth, firm, Central Ranges Merlot chocolaty palate with goodBurnbrae Mudgee 2011 HHH tannins. $18Sangiovese 2011 HHH1/2 Upfront plum aromas andDeep, rich, purple crimson smooth, juicy, tannin dominated,wine - firm and grippy with ripe red fruit palate. $16.99strawberry fruit - slight savouryedge and big hit of oak. $18 CABERNET BLENDSWindowrie The MillCentral Ranges 6 TASTEDSangiovese 2011 HHH 6 AWARDEDPerfumed lift to the quince/orange peel nose and a well- “Amazing quality across thestructured, red fruit palate. $16.99 whole class,” enthused one judge. “There were some weird blends but they worked because winemakers knew what they were doing.”96 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingWinburndale Fontana Dindima Orange CabernetBathurst Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHSauvignon 2009 HHHH Pungent, earthy touchesA firm balanced, cool climate to this nicely structuredstyle - needs another 6-8 years cabernet. Good, firm tannins,in the cellar, according to the some age. $30judges. Nice light mintiness tonose and palate. $30 Ross Hill Pinnacle SeriesClearview Estate Rocky Orange NSW CabernetWaterhole Mudgee Sauvignon 2009 HHHCabernet Sauvignon An elegant varietal with good2010 HHH1/2 core of berry fruit, minty notesTight tomato leaf-like nose. and nice oak. $40Big, tannic, dark chocolatypalate with youthful, varietal Centennial Vineyardsfruit flavours. A keeper. $20 Reserve Single VineyardDe Beaurepaire Victor Bowral CabernetRylstone Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Still a young and tight, solidA great wine - young and red that is ageing nice andfirm with good oak and fruit. slowly. $40Another one that needs 6-8years in the cellar. $29 SHIRAZ BLENDSCentennial VineyardsReserve Single Vineyard 5 TASTEDBowral Cabernet 4 AWARDEDSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2Big, young, tannic wine but Small group - great results! Ithas the fruit depth to balance shows the value of viognier in ait. Subdued oaky nose and blend with shiraz from this region.flavoursome palate. $30Diamond Creek EstateSouthern HighlandsCabernet Sauvignon2006 HHH1/2Earthy, leathery bouquet withmuch the same charactersechoed on the palate. Nicelyaged style. Drink soon. $20Swinging BridgeOrange CabernetSauvignon 2010 HHHA simple, vibrant, purple winewith firm oak tannins and ripeberry fruits. $23Windowrie Pig in the House De Beaurepaire LeopoldCowra NSW Cabernet Rylstone Mudgee ShirazSauvignon 2010 HHH Viognier 2009 HHHHHA lightweight style with A delightfully rich, red wine thatgreenish fruit characters and has delicacy and elegance, andwell-managed tannin. $25 is earthy and savoury with anSouthern Highland Wines excellent, juicy, raspberry-likeOldbury Reserve Southern fruit profile. This is an excellentHighlands Cabernet example of style. $29Sauvignon 2009 HHH Centennial VineyardsRipe, boiled raspberry lolly Reserve Single Vineyardbouquet and simple, sweet fruit Bowral Shiraz Viognierpalate with aged notes. $29 2009 HHHH1/2Windowrie Family Reserve Another good example of thisCanowindra Cabernet blend. Lovely fleshy complexitySauvignon 2009 HHH - very elegant Rhone-like styleInteresting nose “smells like of red with gorgeous, darkrain,” said one judge. Palate chocolaty characters sitting onhas structure, complexity and top of apricots. $30balance. $24.99 May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 97

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWBurnbrae Mudgee Shiraz Dindima Orange NSW de Mestre Wines Centennial VineyardsViognier 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Sofala Road NSW Shiraz Woodside UnfilteredA big-boots-and-all wine with Nose shows spicy, smoky 2005 HHH1/2 Bowral Shiraz 2010 HHHa spicy, shiraz nose showing characters well integrated Smooth, elegant and still with A smart wine - lighter styleapricot notes underneath. with the fruit aromas. Palate is plenty of life left in it. Aged with nose still closed and tight,Beautifully rich, chocolaty palate smooth, textured and balanced spicy nose and complex palate and slight green edge to thewith some charred oak. $25 with loads of jammy, red with lingering flavours. $30 palate. $25 berry fruit. A great wine with Windowrie Pig in the Southern HighlandRed Earth Estate potential. 5+ $38 House Cowra NSW Shiraz Wines Oldbury ReserveShiraz + C 2011 HHH Southern HighlandsWestern NSW Shiraz Swinging Bridge Powerful, peppery Shiraz 2009 HHHChambourcin 2010 HHH Reserve Canowindra characters here with some Smells of boiled lollies withSmells earthy with attractive Shiraz 2010 HHHH spice on the nose and similar characters on the palatebarnyard elements. Soft and A monster of a wine that is greenish, berry fruit. $25 and a minty edge. $29earthy in the mouth. $22 brimming over with ripe, berry Cumulus Wines Chalkers Crossing Hilltops fruit and has a powerful hit of oak Rolling Central Ranges Shiraz 2009 HHHSHIRAZ to match. High in alcohol. $45 Shiraz 2010 HHH Lifted, juicy, raspberry fruit, Light, lifted mix of berry and some pepper and chocolaty16 TASTED Windowrie Family oak aromas and fresh, rich- oak. $3012 AWARDED Reserve Canowindra balanced palate. A keeper. $18 Winburndale Solitary Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Swinging Bridge Bathurst Shiraz 2008 HHHA solid class but with some Jammy, sweet berry fruit style Canowindra Central A smooth, balanced, medium-winemaking problems showing with a hint of mint and balanced Ranges Shiraz 2010 HHH bodied wine with nice red fruitin those wines that were not tannins. A touch simple but a A solid red with nice mixture profile. $30recommended. Overall good very good drink. $24.99 of fruit and dark chocolatydrinking but not up to the characters. Good tannins. $23standard of the cabernet class. Burnbrae Mudgee Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 A pleasant, earthy nose with some aged characters showing and a generous palate with lively flavour intensity. $28 HUNTER VALLEY JAMES HALLIDAY 5 STAR RATING 2007 - 2012Mistletoe is a “unique, boutique” family owned and run winery, established by the current owners in 1989.From vineyard to bottle, Mistletoe’s “no-compromise” approach to producing small quantities of “true to origin”premium quality wine has seen it rewarded with many, many hundreds of awards and accolades.Two recent awards • NSW Wine of the year - Citibank NSW Wine Awards 2011 • Best Australian Chardonnay 2011 - Winestate Magazine 2011 Awards Join Mistletoe’s email list to receive regular list members Special e-offers and 4 annual no-obligation newsletters. To sign up, go to the website link www.mistletoewines.com.au/ws and follow the prompts. Sign up prior to April 30th 2012 and your name will be included in a draw fortwo cases of Mistletoe wines - Valued at over $500 - includes free delivery to your door Australia wide. Mistletoe Winery, 771 Hermitage Road Pokolbin www.mistletoewines.com.au email: [email protected] Ph:02-4998-777098 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012

regional tastingSWEET WHITE Centennial Vineyards The Willow Lane Burnbrae Mudgee Tawny& FORTIFIED Finale Late Autumn Sweet Grace Mudgee (375ml) HHHH Bowral Chardonnay Botrytis Semillon 2011 Muscat aromas with nice11 TASTED 2010 (375ml) HHHH (375ml) HHHH rancio elements and some10 AWARDED Very interesting style. Quite a A fresh, clean and lighter clean, chocolaty/coffee flavours complex wine with a slight VA style. A typical botrytis nose that show complexity andThe sweet whites offered an lift to the candied apple-like smelling of marmalade with balance. $25interesting range of diverse fruit. Long, lingering flavour fresh, complex, marmalade-like Tertini Reserve Southernvarietals and blended sweet profile. $25 flavours. $28 Highlands Noble Rieslingwines. Excellent quality. Cooks Lot Orange 2009 (375ml) HHH1/2There were a couple of quality Late Harvest 2010 Apricot and marmalade-likefortifieds both showing good (375ml) HHHH fragrances with some lightspirit and fruity overtones. Barley sugar, sweet bouquet honeyed botrytis characters on with delicious caramel toffee the palate. $26Dindima Muscat Hamburg richness on the palate. Some Hamiltons Bluff DolceOrange Moscato 2011 subtle acidity and lovely, long, Nero Canowindra(500ml) HHHH clean finish. $25 Dessert SangioveseBeautiful nose - smells of Bloodwood Silk Purse 2008 (375ml) HHHTurkish Delight and rose water Orange Botrytised Riesling An aged, sweet red -that’s anfollowed by a sweet, floral 2009 (375ml) HHHH interesting curiosity - all earthypalate with a lovely, fresh Quite a light desert style with and tannic. $28backbone of acidity. $16 good varietal fruit, some subtle Burnbrae Mudgee Liqueur botrytis notes and nice acid Muscat (375ml) HHHCentennial Vineyards backbone. Offers very good Very sweet, muscat bouquetFinale Autumn Bowral drinking. $27 with some cold tea notes andSauvignon Blanc 2011 sweet, cough lolly flavours. $25(375ml) HHHHClean, simple spatlese style.A nice, light, desert wine thatwill go beautifully with fruitydeserts or creamy cheese. $23 5 STAR WINERY (JAMES HALLIDAY RATING 2011)Www.SHAWVINEYARDS.COM.AUCANBERRA WINE REGION, AUSTRALIA May/June 2012 W I N E S TAT E 99

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINADELAIDE HILLS REGIONAL SHOWPIECE chocolate slices and sweet banana and palm sugar wontons. There’s also a choice MACCLESFIELD OR Manhattan? Brothers of cheeses, including Cabra Artisana al Mark and Peter Saturno, who own and run Romero – a hard goat cheese with rosemary the Longview vineyard outside the historic rind, Tasmanian brie, lavosh, fresh apple, township of Macclesfield in the Adelaide apple and cinnamon paste and candied Hills, opted for Macclesfield. The Saturno walnuts. Longview, set on undulating slopes siblings have food and wine in their blood. that are slightly warmer than the rest of Their parents ran a chain of hotels and wine the Adelaide Hills, produced its first wines stores in the Adelaide region and the brothers in 2001 and when it came up for sale the purchased Longview in 2008, determined to brothers decided to swap the excitement of establish the spectacular property as one of New York City for a quieter lifestyle, admitting the showpieces of the region. Extravagant “the property was in need of some tenderROOMS WITH A VIEW long Sunday lunches featuring a tapas loving care”. They have invested heavily menu and the family’s wines attract large in vineyard management. Mark, an actorASK MOST Adelaide Hills locals where crowds each weekend. Tapas ($39.95 per who has appeared in series, includingto meet up for a drink and they come person) can be enjoyed either outside Law and Order, is in charge of marketing,up with the same response: The Stirling taking in the vineyard views, or in front of while Peter, who worked for a leadingHotel. Not only is the historic old pub a roaring log fires in winter. Chefs Stephanie New York wine importer and distributor,hive of activity seven days a week, it’s Heaven and Louise Naughton change their is now sales manager. Both say living inalso home to two eateries: a casual bistro offerings seasonally, but the menu includes New York introduced them to a whole newand a formal dining room known as The the likes of spiced lentil dip with flat bread, world of wine. The northerly facing slopesGrill Restaurant. While the food and wine marinated organic olives, dukkah and olive of the Longview property are planted withare serious, The Stirling boasts a laidback oil, sopressa, roasted capsicum, chilli cherry cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and nebbiolo,country ambience just a short drive from bocconcini and slow roasted tomatoes, while sauvignon blanc, chardonnay andthe Adelaide city centre. There is also followed by dishes like pithivier with poached riesling have a southern aspect. There arenow top-notch accommodation available chicken, lemon, thyme, mascarpone and also high hopes for viognier, pinot grigio andon site following the opening of five luxury baby spinach, saltimbocca with char- the Austrian white variety gruner veltliner,suites that are aimed at “recreating the grilled asparagus, Atlantic salmon baked which was more recently planted on thebed & breakfast experience”. All the with sumac and chilli with herb salad and 70ha under vine. “We liked the elegance ofrooms feature large en-suite bathrooms tahini yoghurt, and sweet potato and ginger the wines that the property produced,” sayswith baths and dual-head rain showers. fritter with coriander lemon salad and spicy Peter. “And we also saw there was a hugeAll beds are king sized, have luxury linens sesame mayo. Desserts may feature mini future for cool-climate wines in Australia.”with lighting & audio/visual controls at chocolate eclairs, raspberry jelly cakes, Longview also offers a choice of vineyardbedside and sitting areas which include cranberry, pistachio, coconut and white accommodation; six apartment suitescomfortable seating for viewing digital TVand DVDs. Three of the rooms have openfireplaces and for the warmer months aprivate balcony overlooking the beautifulstreetscape of Stirling. A writing desk issupplied with wireless internet connectionand in-room amenities include soft robes,irons and ironing boards, mendingkits, vanity kits and complimentary in-room coffee and tea making facilities.The Stirling Hotel is at 52 Mount BarkerRd, Stirling; phone (08) 8339 2345.www.stirlinghotel.com.au.100 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2012