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Home Explore Winestate Magazine August 2020

Winestate Magazine August 2020

Published by editor, 2020-08-04 20:21:54

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THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE &ORGANIC BWIOINDEYSNA2M02ICtasted New Releases 4 9 9 TA S T E D Featuring Taylors The Pioneer 244 tasted Bird In Hand M.A.C E.Guigal La Landonne TO THE BEAT Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle OF A DIFFERENT Wolf Blass Platinum DRUM Henschke Hill Of Grace Penfolds Grange SETTING A SUCCESSFUL RHYTHM FOR THE AN RIVERLAND AND BEYOND E M E RG I NG August 2020 WORL D Vol 43 Issue 4 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) climate change & NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 emerging varieties US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 Adelaide Hills HKD $120 CHF 15.00 152 tasted plus River Regions • White Spirits • Adelaide Hills • New Releases Sweet White & For tifieds • Organic Wines • South Island (NZ)

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THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH. Nestled between the continental wines with EU-protected designation warmth and cool northern currents, Austrian wines flourish in the heart of of origin.You can always spot them by Europe. These ideal climatic conditions foster the growth of noble and elegant the red-white-red capsule tops and the official quality wine check number on the label.

NO.302 AUGUST 2020 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] wine info, tastings and Tasting Coordinator Ashlea Lowke E: [email protected] events on facebook, twitter and instagram. Printing DAI Rubicon Connect on social with Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] Winestate WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Magazine Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2020 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 5

contents AUGUST 2020 28 FEATURES 28 AN EMERGING WORLD R E G U L A R S 24 TO THE BEAT OF A Whilst most of the world’s wine is 10 Briefs 17 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW DIFFERENT DRUM made from just 35 varietals, the 18 European Report with Sally Easton MW From the outset 919 wines, rather impact of climate change has 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley seen the importance of emerging 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King than produce large quantities of and alternative varietals rise to 38 Grapevine “run of the mill” wines, decided to centre stage. Obscure varietals 43 Wine words go against the crowd and focus that were once relegated to curios 44 What’s it Worth? on handcrafted, small volumes are now gaining traction both for 73 Subscription Form of superb organic wines, each of their point of difference to the 122 Aftertaste which was a true reflection of that mainstay wines we all know and variety, writes Dan Traucki. This is love and for their ability to adapt an area known for their bulk wine to ever changing environmental production which historically has conditions. been viewed in a negative light is truly a quality to be admired 32 BEST OF A BEAUTIFUL BUNCH W I N E TAST I N G S and rather than something to be Well it certainly is a different 46 Sweet White & Fortified concealed, they declare their year to be conducting the 49 World's Greatest Syrah & Shiraz wines, ‘Proudly Riverland Made’. World's Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge XV Challenge, however we are very 66 Adelaide Hills 24 pleased to announce that this 74 Emerging Varietals year saw nearly 500 entries. An 84 River Regions amazing feat given the current 90 South Island (Nelson & Canterbury) world covid-19 conditions. This 93 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases tasting saw some fantastic wines across all price ranges and a lean 96 White Spirits towards more elegant styles rather 100 Southern Cross Certified than the huge blockbusters of Organic Wine Show times gone by. Check out all of the 108 New Releases results starting page 49. 115 Best Value Buys under $20. 34 AND THE WINNERS ARE... This year’s category winners of the Winestate’s Mainfreight World’s Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge XV can be found on page 34. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 302 issue please refer to August 2020 Cover photograph boule13 6 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

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editorial “WHAT IS HAPPENING WITH WINE DRINKERS IN THESE TURBULENT TIMES,” I keep getting asked? There are lots of things that come to mind. With the virus problems people are drinking more, predominantly ordering on-line, but at lower prices. Restaurants and hotels have been closed, then some opened with limited access, with some going into lockdown again, so owners have had to become more creative. Hotels with drive-throughs are doing well and others selling direct to the consumer are just keeping their head above water. Results are different from state to state and are ever changing as is to be expected! Several states including Queensland, South Australia and Western Australia tentatively opened their borders, with restrictions, to try and stimulate the tourism and hospitality sectors however as cases surge in Victoria (recently declaring a state of emergency) it seems likely that things will tighten further rather than relax. Meanwhile we still have 2,700 or so small wineries fighting for 5% of the market, whilst the big chains dominate the distribution. Personal service is now the key for the little guy. There are only so many friends and relatives you can sell to. Export too has hit a cliff with many overseas countries also in lockdown and the big elephant in the room, China, holding back for the moment, although we have heard some whispers of interest there. Those wineries who put all their eggs in one basket are paying the price heavily now. There is a price to pay to rely on just the low hanging fruit! The good news is that the quality of Australian and New Zealand wine has never been higher and it has to be with all this competition. Anyone who now makes unsound wine will soon be out of business. Shiraz is the big name in Australia and in this issue we judged 499 examples. In previous years the quality of the product increased markedly at around $25 - $30, but that has now crept up to $35-$40. However, in this current climate discounts abound and high quality wines have dropped 30% everywhere. It is a great time to put some away for a rainy day. Hang on, it is a rainy day! What we found interesting from the judges' comments was a two tiered marketplace as far as wine style was concerned. On the one hand we had the fashionable mid-weight vibrant fruit styles with balanced oak and acids that seem to be popular in the down-under marketplace. On the other hand, dare we say, we saw the influence of the China market at the top end where importers demanded blockbuster versions with high alcohol (even up to 16%) and strong tannins. The idea here is that if you are paying high prices, particularly for Barossa wines, you want more “bang for your buck”. Whilst some of these were great wines a number had “arms and legs” as one judge put it, referring to a general lack of balance in the constituents. So buyer beware. The sweet spot for most consistent high quality wines was around the $50 - $80 mark. What we also saw this year was a big increase in the number of over $80 wines and over $100 wines in those two categories, where small wineries felt the need to have a big price yardstick wine in their portfolio. Again, the China influence was mentioned as a big factor. It appears that trophy wines are most desirable. Whether they are drunk is another question. For more information on our Shiraz Challenge check out the judging information on page 32 onwards. In the meantime one can not live by shiraz alone. We are pleased to also bring you in this issue a record 196 Organic & Biodynamic wines and we welcome on board our new sponsor, Southern Cross Certified. We look forward to working with them to expand this category in the future as organic and biodynamic practices are definitely on the rise. See page 100. Inland Rivers wines are always of interest as the engine room of Australian wine and this year was no exception. These warm climate regions straddle the states of NSW, Victoria and South Australia and without them we would not have the great value quaffing wines we have now. However, there is a revolution happening with winemakers like Eric Semmler (see article on page 24) introducing interesting varieties that suit these regions and achieve high ratings. Eric and his 919 wines are also well represented in our annual sweet whites and fortifieds judging where Australia produces some of the word’s finest, but often unheralded examples. And for our lovers of cool climate wines we also have a great judging of Adelaide Hills wines. This region suffered heavily in the recent bush fire season, with a number losing vineyards and others the lot to then be further hit without the outbreak of the pandemic. However, we were very pleased to see an excellent response to this judging with many worthy wines entered. Buy some of these worthy wines and help rebuild the region. Meanwhile New Zealand is represented by Michael Cooper’s knowledgeable New Releases column and the feature region of South Island. New Releases are more interesting than ever in this issue. With the major shows cancelled for the moment due to Covid-19 we feel a responsibility to keep the word out there and we thank the wineries who support us so that we in turn can support and promote them! And finally for the spiriteYdoaumrownigneyo, u we are pleased to put forward some very fashionable small batch gins and a few delicious vodkas. You can find these in our Wioneur&pSopritrsit.Insider section on page 96. Lots to taste and lots to enjoy. Australia Cheers! Export Customer Service Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 Peter Simic New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Major Sponsors and Supporters Editor/Publisher Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs BEST’S EVEN BETTER AFTER MORE THAN PASSING OF AN UNSUNG LEGEND 150 YEARS ONE of Coonawarra’s great unsung winemakers, Demetrio Zema, BEST’S WINES retains the name of the original owner, Henry Best, has died. He was aged 87. Together with his wife, Francesca, but it is the Thomson family who have owned it for longer and and sons he built the Zema Estate vineyard and winery during contributed the most to its ongoing success. This year, the current the 1980s. generation – Viv Thomson and his son, Ben – celebrate 100 years of family ownership of the Great Western-based winery. Born in southern Italy, he started out in the Coonawarra district as a house painter and was widely known as Mr Painter before While the Coronavirus pandemic has scuttled major celebratory turning his hand to grapes. The first grapes planted, shiraz and plans, the family will nonetheless mark the occasion with the release cabernet sauvignon, reflected a long love of red wines, but among of a sparkling wine from the 2016 vintage, the year the company the first releases for the company was also a 1984 late harvest rhine celebrated its 150th anniversary. It will be the first sparkling from riesling. With a rich, sweet botrytis influence it was described on the maker since 2005. A blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot release as “not a wine you can simply pass by”. meunier the sparkling will feature a dosage incorporating a back blend of aged wines. Today, the company is known for its small selection of elegant, medium-bodied reds more than worthy of long-term cellaring. Henry Best and his brother Joseph settled in the region in the 1860s with each establishing vineyards close by each other: PIONEERING VISIONARY ENTERS THE DIGITAL Joseph’s vineyard became Seppelt and Henry’s continues to retain REALM his name even though it was sold to Frederick Thomson in 1920. WHAT do you do when you have some of the best wines you have Viv Thomson, who in 1960 became the fourth generation to join ever made for sale, and no opportunity to travel and tell the world the family business, recently reflected on the milestone and the just how good they are? You get creative. work of his ancestors, none of whom were trained in winemaking. In June, in the mist of Coronavirus shutdowns, Mitchell Taylor of “They had no technical information at all in the early days,” he Taylors Wines hosted live stream virtual tastings on Facebook and said. “Every time they racked a wine, they would add sulphur, acid Zoom meetings around the country to celebrate the “exceptional” and tannin. Even if it didn’t need it, it got it, because they couldn’t 2014 vintage releases of his company’s flagship wines The test for anything. They just didn’t have the knowledge at that time.” Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon and The Pioneer Shiraz, both retailing for $200. The wines are only produced in top years. When he joined his father, Eric, at the winery the first thing Viv did was travel across the country talking to and learning from The challenge for Mitchell Taylor was two-fold since he was in winemakers. He later brought in former Seppelt winemaker, Trevor Sydney and unable to return to his home in the Clare Valley due Mast, who had trained in winemaking in Germany, and under their to border closures. stewardship the Best’s name flourished. Today, winemaking is in the hands of Justin Purser and assistant maker, Brigitte Rodda. “We’ve had these 14s looking forward to releasing,” he said. “These are real hand sells and normally we’d be doing roadshows, events and winemaker dinners around them and we’ve had to get really creative in the digital space.” Both The Visionary and The Pioneer are under screwcap – Clare Valley vignerons, including Taylors Wines, pioneered its use in Australia – and the recent release of the company’s top wine, The Legacy 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon features the first of new microchip technology on the seal to confirm its authenticity. Taylor, winemaker and managing director, has an innovative 10 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

briefs streak. In recent years he has applied it to The Pioneer Shiraz which The Tahbilk team is confident that these unforeseeable undergoes an unusual and labour-intensive winemaking process circumstances will see the winery come back stronger than ever. that Mitchell Taylor believes gives the wine full integration “from The good news is there are no predicted long-term effects from day one.” Early in the fermentation stage, with his wines in new the Covid-19 pandemic for the winery; no infections amongst the American oak barrels, the head or top of the barrel is removed. staff and broader Tahbilk community; nature has been kind with no smoke taint affected grapes in the vineyards. Interestingly, export “We actually take the heads off the barrels and do the ferment sales to China are also picking up after a complete shutdown within the barrel on skins right at the very beginning,” he says. during the height of their coronavirus outbreak. For Tahbilk, “We’ve been doing this technique for about five to six years and February and March sales into the mainland have been strong it’s working really well. and there has been a shift in the mix of the wines being ordered. “Then, after letting it soak for six to eight weeks, we press and “China is coming back strongly and quickly for us and it’s great reassemble the barrels and continue the ageing process through to see given the many years and resources we’ve spent building to a finished wine. Because they were so expensive I was pretty our brand in that market,\" Purbrick says. \"What we have noticed horrified at pulling them apart, but because we can put them back is a shift towards the purchase of our premium portfolio, with our together it has worked very well for us.” iconic 1860 Vines Shiraz and Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz being particularly popular, showing that Chinese consumers are keen for quality drops after a lull in their quality of life. They’re back in a big way which is great for premium Australian wine.\" For details see TAHBILK TELLS ITS TALE A MONSTER OF A MIXER THIS was supposed to be a year of celebration for Victorian icon AT a time when cocktail bars were closed, a premium premix was winery Tahbilk, which is celebrating its 160th birthday in 2020. The a welcome arrival. Kraken, a spiced rum from the Caribbean, team behind Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery are looking on introduced in 2010, has been a bar hit over the past decade the bright side in difficult times with owner Alister Purbrick saying: and Kraken & Dry and Kraken & Cola have now been debuted in \"Tahbilk has seen many a struggle in its 160-year history and has Australia. The base rum is from Trinidad, distilled at Angostura from lived to tell the tale. We are determined that this hiccup will be naturally sweet molasses made from locally grown sugar cane. no different. The rum is then aged 1-2 years and then blended with a mix “While we have had to postpone some celebrations, we’re of 11 spices, including cinnamon, ginger and clove. The Kraken planning for the party to end all parties later in the year. In the is named after a mythical sea monster and the two mixers offer meantime, enjoy some Tahbilk wines, raise a glass to 160 years aromatic ginger with the Dry, or a more traditional premium rum and join in the fun from home.” and cola experience with the Cola. The new duo caters perfectly for finicky Australian consumers looking for bar quality serves With the wine industry suffering in the age of Covid-19, fourth- from the comfort of their own couch. The two Kraken mixers are generation CEO Purbrick said: “We’ve got some different news available from BWS stores, Dan Murphy’s and good independent to share. We’re nearing the end of a good vintage which has run retailers at an RRP of $27 for a four-pack. reasonably smoothly all things considered. \"We welcomed some European backpackers to our vintage team and they will remain in Australia for the time being. They’re now part of the wider Tahbilk family and we’re delighted they’re here. “Clearly the pandemic has affected Tahbilk from a travel and tourism perspective with our restaurant closed for meals and the cellar door, although open, can’t conduct tastings, however, online wine sales continue and our cellar door is open to locals for retail purchases – essential at this tricky time. \"Of course, we are observing strict hygiene and social distancing guidelines, but we’re still here to serve.” August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs HONOURING HERITAGE French winemakers, taking on the New World wines that were dominating overseas markets by adopting a fresh and fun GARTELMANN Wines in the Hunter Valley has just released two approach to both brand and winemaking. That meant screw caps, \"Bordeaux\"-style reds with four years of bottle age. The 2016 fun labels and a sustainable approach in the vineyards, where Gartelmann \"Georg\" Petit Verdot ($35) and the 2016 Gartelmann yields were slashed and quality elevated. \"Phillip Alexander\" Cabernet Merlot ($30) are both made from grapes grown at Rylstone, outside Mudgee. A long, cool ripening Winemaking knowledge in the Mas family stretches back to period here helps build both complexity and elegance. 1892 and covers three generations to his great-grandfather. The negociant-producer now makes over 22 million bottles annually, \"We were adamant we should release these wines with some bottle 90% exported to 65 countries but remains ambitious. age in order to show our customers the benefit of cellaring and the beginning of the aging process,\" says vigneron Jorg Gartelmann. \"The region has progressed tremendously over the past 30 years, but two ingredients are missing,\" he said in an interview with The petit verdot is named after World War I fighter ace Georg Decanter magazine. \"A concise definition of what Languedoc- Meyer, Gartelmann's grandfather, while the Phillip is named after Roussillon is all about and a wine or wines that identify the region, his son. like sauvignon blanc does New Zealand or malbec in Argentina. \"We have been making wines from this 17-year-old vineyard for \"As a region with a palette of grape varieties the message will several years,\" Gartelmann says. \"It is a fantastic vineyard that be communicated by a blend or blends. Whatever, we need to consistently produces very well-balanced fruit.\" find the code.\" Gartelmann Wines are available from the Hunter cellar door, Two impressive new releases have just hit Dan Murphy independent bottle shops and from stores in Australia; the 2018 Chateau Paul Mas Close des Mures ($20.99) , a syrah, grenache, mourvedre blend from the family estate where it all began, and an organic 2018 Chateau Martinolles Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay ($18.99) from Limoux, a vineyard Mas acquired in 2011. FROG MARKS HIS TERROIR CUBE CLOSES FORMER motor racing driver Jean-Claude Mas, better known as THE d’Arenberg Cube restaurant has closed permanently – a the Arrogant Frog, is a man who never slows down. Mas is this year victim of the coronavirus financial fallout. celebrating 20 years as a winemaker, having taken a small family firm to global brand status with clever marketing and attentive “Facing the challenges of the current economic environment winemaking. While Mas is best-known for affordable, cheap and since the global pandemic and with much regret, we have made cheerful offerings like the Arrogant Frog range, he is now aiming the very hard decision to close The d'Arenberg Cube Restaurant,” to lift both the quality and profile of wines from the Languedoc- the operators said. Roussillon region in the south of France. “Since its inception [chefs] Brendan, Lindsay and their \"My latest challenge is reinventing the wine traditions in the incredible team have delivered a dining experience that is truly Languedoc and revealing the essence of the terroirs,\" he says. extraordinary. From 17 hectares of vines in the start, Mas now controls 800 \"We are eternally proud and grateful for what has been achieved hectares of wines from 15 different estates that fall under the by the restaurant team and thankful to the many thousands of Domaines Paul Mas umbrella. He has the business acumen diners who have trusted us with their patronage. We truly hope that to match his dry wit and charm. The man behind the Arrogant trust has been rewarded with long lasting memories of surprise, Frog label is helping transform the Languedoc-Roussillon - and adventure, and most importantly delicious food.” in the process cracking several wine markets other French producers deemed too hard. Mas, a fourth-generation vintner, has paved a new path for 12 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

briefs from the Forbes Travel Guide. It is famous for its panoramic views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong's skyline. The 503- room hotel opened in 1980 as The Regent Hong Kong but was re-branded to InterContinental Hong Kong in June 2001 as the Asia-Pacific flagship property for IHG (InterContinental Hotels Group). Two-thirds of the 503 guest rooms, including all 87 suites, have harbour views. The five-storey d’Arenberg Cube and its fine dining restaurant GONE TOO SOON opened in late 2017 headed by husband-and-wife duo Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Dürr. A new restaurant will eventually fill the Vaughn Dell did third level space, but no commitments have been made. things his way. As an Australian Rules April 2 was originally scheduled as the closing date, but footballer and a Government legislation brought the closure forward. winemaker, Dell was happy to break the RETURN OF THE REGENT mould. Tasmanian-born and bred, he founded ONE of the world's greatest hotels – and a favourite with Sinapius Wines, along gourmets and wine lovers - is closing its doors for two years with his partner Linda - and will emerge with a new look and a new name. The Morice. Dell died on the InterContinental Hong Kong closed on April 20, 2020 and will morning of May 19 from reopen as Regent Hong Kong in 2022. what appears to be an undiagnosed heart-related medical condition. He left Linda, The hotel is planning a spectacular transformation that will and two young daughters, Clem and Esme. position it as one of the top hotels not only in Asia but also as Dell was one of the most innovative members of the Tasmanian one of the world's most iconic hotels. The total transformation wine industry - and one of the nicest people you could hope to will span all guest rooms and suites including bathrooms, all meet. Injuries prevented the former Burnie Docker and Tassie public areas, restaurants and event venues, as well as a refresh Mariner from making the grade as an AFL footballer, but he and of the building façade with a contemporary new look. Yan Toh Morice built a formidable reputation for the quality of wines from Heen, the hotel's one-Michelin star Cantonese restaurant, will their Sinapius vineyard at Pipers River in the north of the state. remain open throughout the renovation, with access via the Their close-planted vines produce wines of intensity and the big adjoining K11 Musea. guy with a big smile also built long-time friendships. \"At just 39 years old, Vaughn was already regarded as one of Goodwin Gaw, Chairman and Managing Principal of Gaw the Tasmanian wine sector’s leaders, with he and Linda having Capital Partners, which led the acquisition of the hotel in 2015 an impressive 16 years of experience at Sinapius following their on behalf of a consortium of investors, said: “We are thrilled to purchase of the Pipers River vineyard when they were both just work with Chi Wing Lo, who has over 30 years of experience 23 years old,\" said Wine Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies. in the United States, Greece and Italy. \"We'll all miss Vaughn for his curiosity, generosity, positive attitude, determination, big smile, infectious laugh and \"His designs combine superb craftsmanship and ingenuity obsession with gamay, clones and the latest machinery for with innovative use of materials and a unique and timeless high-density plantings. aesthetic. He is now exclusively devoting his time to the design \"Vaughn will be sorely missed but not forgotten. Our thoughts creation and return of the legendary Regent Hong Kong.” are with Linda, the girls and their families.\" InterContinental Hong Kong holds a coveted five-star rating MARGARET RIVER ESCAPES UNSCATHED AFTER a vintage in which several regions of Australia were blighted by bush fires and resultant smoke taint, the news is rather more positive from Margaret River in Western Australia. The Margaret River Wine Association CEO Amanda Whiteland today reported the wrap-up of an \"exceptional\" vintage. \"The region raises a collective sigh of relief to have been able to complete the 2020 vintage undisrupted; without significant rain, lockdowns or the impact of bushfires and losses that sadly, August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs some regions in other parts of Australia have had to endure,\" I had the opportunity to build strong relationships with local the MRWA said in a statement. growers,\" Varney says. \"I now count many of them as close friends who I source fruit from for Varney Wines. \"We are humbly counting our blessings. The region enjoyed an early start to the season, with warmer-than-average spring \"I feel fortunate to be able to have access to grenache, mourvèdre, temperatures evolving into the perfect summer growing touriga, cabernet, nebbiolo, fiano, semillon, chardonnay, and shiraz conditions. Low disease pressure, timely flowering of native from some very special sites in various sub-regions in the Adelaide Marri trees to keep the birds at bay and little to no rain meant Hills, McLaren Vale, and a small parcel at Langhorne Creek.” that growers could literally 'take their pick' when they wanted.\" Varney, who has also worked vintages in California and New While quality is up, yields are down. The 2020 vintage will see York State, says he is not \"afraid to step out of the box\" and \"one of the smallest harvests in recent years\". go with his intuition. \"Lower yields have resulted in exceptional fruit that is \"I utilise whole bunch and/or whole berry addition, extended physiologically ripe and shows divine concentration of aromas cold soaks, indigenous yeast, and flavours. While the 2020 vintage from Margaret River will be in scarce supply, it will be a very special vintage to look out for.\" submerged cap, foot treading, and carbonic maceration – whatever the fruit calls for really,\" he said. GENUINE GARAGISTE \"I only use old seasoned oak with no fining or filtration. I make ALAN Varney of Varney Wines is a genuine garagiste producer, my wines out of a new, environmentally sensitive winery I built making some of his wines in volumes of under 100 cases per alongside my wife Kathrin’s restaurant at Victor’s Place, located vintage. While the Entrada range is designed to show off young, at the gateway to McLaren Vale overlooking the beautiful rolling approachable, drink-now wines, all three show Iberian swagger hills of the Onkaparinga Gorge.\" and style. There are a 2019 verdelho, a 2019 grenache rosé and a 2018 grenache, mourvedre, touriga blend. The styles were inspired This transformed former derelict shearing shed is also the home by Varney's time doing 2017 vintage in a small town called Entradas of the Varney Wines tasting room. Varney's upper end wines under in Portugal. While Varney Wines is a newcomer, the creator has a the Essentials range include a 2018 semillon fiano ($28), a 2018 long history in the wine business. chardonnay ($32), a 2017 GSM and a 2017 shiraz (both $42). Varney Wines, 62 Victor Harbour Road, Old Noarlunga, SA. www. \"It all started as a ‘tonne for fun’, an opportunity to make my own style of wines from some of my favourite vineyards in McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills,\" Varney says. NEW GEM FOR THE BAROSSA He caught the wine bug early. After meeting his wife Kathrin while THE Barossa Valley is to get a 12-storey luxury hotel and day spa backpacking around the world, followed her to her hometown of that should significantly boost tourism to the region. The hotel, Berlin and began tasting his way around the world. He took an Oscar Seppeltsfield, will be completed by 2022 and will be situated Oenology degree at Melbourne University and worked vintages at the historic Seppeltsfield site. No operator has yet been named. in regional Victoria before working for Orlando-Wyndham in the Barossa and Longview Wines in the Adelaide Hills. A casual vintage The $50 million six-star luxury hotel project will have about 70 job at d’Arenberg in McLaren Vale turned into an 11-year stint. rooms, including suites and penthouses, with a private balcony for every room. Artist’s impressions of the building set in the vineyards \"During the many long vintage hours in the winery at d’Arenberg near the Seppeltsfield winery reveal an ultra-modern design to rival McLaren Vale’s d’Arenberg Cube. The hotel will be on land owned by Seppeltsfield and leased to Luxury Hotels Australia for 99 years. Seppeltsfield's ambitious owner Warren Randall said he wanted to create a national icon for South Australia. “A Sydney Opera House for the Barossa,” he said. \"Oscar will complete the grand vision of our tourism master plan for Seppeltsfield to become the most desirable epicurean destination for tourists worldwide. 14 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

“The hotel will be positioned gently in the middle of the Great RVL aims to offer something for everyone when life gets back to Terraced Vineyard, surrounded by century-old bush vines, an normal. The opening lunch special was house-made beetroot amazingly tranquil location and a short walking distance to the tortellini with burnt butter, walnuts, local pears and blue cheese. world-class Seppeltsfield tourism village.\" The all-day breakfast menu features familiar dishes like scrambled eggs with bacon and steak sandwich with chips, but there are The Seppeltsfield precinct is already one of the Barossa’s leading also several vegan and vegetarian options, or you can opt for tourist destinations and includes the Seppeltsfield Cellar Door and a simple toasted sandwich. The wine list features Huon Valley Centennial Cellar, 1888 Gravity Cellar, Fino Restaurant, a design locals Elsewhere, Chatto, Kate Hill and Hughes & Hughes along studio, cooperage and artisan knife maker. with interesting interstate choices from Alpha Box & Dice, Battle of Bosworth and some European imports. Oscar Seppeltsfield will also feature a sky bar on the top level with 360-degree sweeping views of the Barossa. The ground floor will Guests can eat indoors, where there is a bright new decor, or in have a wellness day spa including a private entry to a relaxation the courtyard. The Red Velvet Lounge, 24 Mary St, Cygnet. Phone space and infinity pool. The hotel will also offer a restaurant, private (03) 6295 0730. dining room and boardroom. BURGEONING BEAUJOLAIS The hotel is named in honour of the innovative visionary Oscar Benno Seppelt, who took over the Seppeltsfield winery from his WINES from Beaujolais continue to see impressive growth in founding father Joseph in 1868 and went on to revolutionise the the British market with export volume and value up 22% and Australian wine industry. 17% respectively in 2019 - more than any other French wine region. The growth was constant throughout the year - and if A NEW NORMAL Beaujolais is doing well in the gloomy UK climes then it should be doing even better in Australia, where the sunshine makes BEN Wood and Kate the style perfect for enjoying chilled. Beaujolais tends to be a Sullivan did not pick lighter-bodied red wine, with relatively high amounts of acidity the perfect time to take and lower tannins and are largely made from the gamay grape. over one of Tasmania’s most popular regional Rebecca Fraser, head of marketing at Louis Latour Agencies cafes, the Red Velvet which represents Henry Fessy, said Beaujolais’s success was Lounge in Cygnet, a continuing apace because: “The wines are approachable, fresh, 40-minute drive south and fruit driven, perfect for regular drinking but also come with of Hobart. The couple a great story. took over the keys just a couple of weeks before \"They always strike a chord with consumers when we sample the coronavirus struck, them. They also offer great value, whether it be the wine drinker forcing them to reduce who wants a simple fruity Beaujolais or someone interested in their offerings to takeaway meals, evening pizzas and coffees. exploring the characteristics of the different Cru appellations.” Previously a vegetarian restaurant, the latest incarnation of the Cécile Bossan-Redon, managing director at Inter Beaujolais, August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs said: “We are proud to have such a healthy increase in exports with Orange region visitors and encourage our to the UK. There is now more choice of Beaujolais wines existing customers - who have not necessarily available on UK shelves than ever before, which we believe is been before - to travel to the region. a huge contributing factor to its continued popularity. \"We know that many customers are just waiting “Despite the uncertainties raised around Brexit, we have for the excuse to visit Orange and Millthorpe.\" remained committed to the UK market and it’s been important for us to continue to demonstrate the dynamic range and choice Visitors to the cellar door can expect to sample Beaujolais wines have to offer, which we believe the increase a broad range of wine styles along with local in export figures represent.” gourmet produce. Guests can relax, get a bottle of wine, and a cheese plate to enjoy. HAPPENING ORGANICALLY Millthorpe is a heritage-listed village in Central Organic wine pioneers Tamburlaine Organic Wines have opened a West NSW and part of the Orange wine region. new tasting facility in the historic former Millthorpe General Store in The historic town is 20 minutes’ drive south- Central Western New South Wales. The opening follows hot on the east of Orange, only 10 minutes from Orange heels of the multi-award-winning organic winemakers’ expansion in Airport, and 30 minutes west of Bathurst. The the Orange wine region via the purchase of the former Cumulus winery drive from Sydney is 3 hours 30 minutes. Visitors facility at Cudal, where it processed its 2020 fruit. The new facility, to be can also come by train from Sydney, arriving in operated by local Phoenix Kamsteeg, will hold hosted wine tastings. Millthorpe at 11.48am just in time for lunch, a spot of exploring, some cellar door tasting and Tamburlaine managing director Mark Davidson said Tamburlaine then catch the train home at 4.11pm. has enjoyed 35 years of providing exceptional cellar door service through its Hunter Valley operation and now is looking forward to The Millthorpe Tamburlaine Organic Wines supplementing the Orange region visitor wine experience. Cellar Door will initially be open Thursday through to Sunday, but special direct bookings can be made for small “The cellar door opening in the region is not before time given groups by phoning (02) 4998 4299 or at our involvement with Orange region winemaking going back to 1989 and given the substantial vineyard holdings at Borenore and OLIVE TREE OFFERS WINE BRANCH Belgravia,” Davidson said. Situated smack in the middle of the world class Adelaide “This venue will complement the already established cellar doors Central Market, in between the Smelly Cheese Company and in Millthorpe of Angullong and Slow Wine Co. The destination Barossa Fine Foods, is the Olive Tree Providore. Not just a great matches food and wine tourism with history and heritage. place to get your fill of olives and quince pastes, the Olive Tree also offers a range of boutique specialty wines, the only such “Tamburlaine built its Hunter business on tourism and cellar door place in the market itself. Owner, Paul Bratovic, is a passionate hospitality. Over the decades we created a substantial customer South Australian who only stocks local products from obscure base for the wines, one customer group at a time. wineries, often those without cellar doors. “We can now continue this highly effective model of direct sales “Normally we cater to tourists who stay at local hotels and like the diversity of small batch products that we offer,” said Paul. “We focus solely on South Australian wines because we are a specialist retailer and these products go well with our surrounds. During the virus lockdown whilst tourists stayed away the market, we continued supplying the locals and this was a great relief in being able to survive. “We are looking forward to starting up our regular Friday night tasting sessions again. These have become a very popular event in the market, surrounded by amazing food offerings,” Paul said. 16 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW extremely grateful to be allowed to work throughout the lockdown period, and for the care, patience and love shown by the industry in general to their workers. From this, the wines are better for it.” 2020 HARVEST – A MEMORABLE VINTAGE! PINOT NOIR NZ 2021 BECOMES PINOT NOIR NZ 2022 THERE’S no doubting 2020 is already one for the history books, but for New Zealand winemakers it will also go down as one of the FACED with uncertain times ahead, the organizers of Pinot Noir best vintages in recent memory. Whilst there was some variation NZ 2021 made the difficult decision to move the event forward a across the country, for the most part a cool, wet spring gave way year to 15th–17th February 2022. Still hosted in Christchurch, it will to a long, dry, warm but not overly hot summer with very little rain showcase 120 wineries, eight regions and a kaleidoscope of styles or disease pressure throughout the crucial harvest months. It’s and philosophies via talks, workshops, tastings, dinners and more. probably a good thing the weather gods were kind as the vintage Co-Chair Helen Masters says, “We are really excited about welcoming was not without its stressful points - New Zealand went into strict people to New Zealand to tell our collective stories and explore the lockdown on March 26th smack in the middle of harvest. After some evolution of New Zealand Pinot Noir. It was important for us to delay uncertainty, it was agreed that the grape harvest could proceed this event by a year, so we can celebrate face to face and glass to with producers adhering to very strict social-distancing and other glass, rather than looking at a digital alternative. The cornerstone of conditions. Vintage crews were split into non-mixing ‘bubbles’, family this celebration is bringing the global wine community together to members were drafted in as pickers and cellar hands and it was spend time with us on our shores and experience the best in kiwi a very different pace from a typical harvest. Sarah-Kate Dineen, hospitality.” The programme will evolve somewhat to reflect the recent owner and winemaker of Maude in Central Otago, outlines, “Social world-changing experiences, with Masters adding that organizers distancing with picking and winery operations was definitely not the are committed to “ensuring it remains relevant, informative and easiest. Massively expensive and slow. But we got there, no-one inspirational”. Tickets sell fast – see for yours. got sick and we’re out the other side with some sexy looking wines in the house…gotta be a silver lining right…?!” NEUDORF’S ‘NEW’ GM Julian Grounds, who as Craggy Range’s head winemaker oversees NELSON’S Neudorf Vineyards has announced that winemaker fruit from Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough was equally enthusiastic, Todd Stevens will assume the additional role of General Manager, commenting, “Not much can be uttered other than to say… it was as founders Tim and Judy Finn step back somewhat from the perfect. Few would have thought we could back up the amazing winery’s day-to-day running. Stevens, who completed a Bachelor vintage conditions of 2019. But the season did. And possibly Business Studies before postgrad Viticulture and Oenology, improved on it. I cannot believe the level of energy in the whites will work alongside Marketing Director (and Tim and Judy’s and phenolic ripeness in the reds. It stands to say than many will daughter) Rosie Finn and viticulturist Stefan Brockley. Neudorf is make some of the greatest wines in living memory from a vintage currently undertaking a complete business and property carbon that most of us will remember for what was happening all around us.” assessment with a view to reducing their carbon footprint, a continuation of ongoing work in sustainability and organics. Marlborough’s Clive Jones, winemaker/GM at Nautilus feels, “The 2020 harvest will be remembered as ‘unusual’ given the measures GREYSTONE EATERY OPENS and practices we had to instigate to ensure we all remained safe from the virus. Throughout the harvest, the one thing that always ORGANIC wine producer, Greystone, has recently opened a remained on our side was the weather. Perfect ripening conditions revamped cellar door and eatery at its Waipara, North Canterbury with an early arrival of the autumn weather pattern of cool nights and vineyard. Headed up by chef and forager Melany Wright, it will warm, but not hot, days meant for nice slow flavour development. offer shared plates made from locally grown organic and foraged The fruit condition was pristine and some of the best we have seen. produce, delivering diners a novel and delicious experience. It didn’t really matter if you picked today or tomorrow. In fact, if the General manager and founding viticulturist, Nick Gill says, \"We pubs had been open, we would probably would have gone to the make wine that reflects our environment, so it made sense to pub ‘today’ & picked ‘tomorrow’. Unfortunately, that wasn’t an option develop a menu that captures both season and provenance. as the pubs were closed so we kept on picking, thankful that we had Mel is renowned amongst chefs in New Zealand for her foraging another vineyard picked and safely in the winery.” skills as well as her ability to tell a story of place through food. There’s something very special about being able to share North With the 2020 wines now safely in tank and barrel, and life in New Canterbury food and wine in this way.” Wright grew up foraging Zealand returning to a new sort of normality, winemakers can go to in North Canterbury, and her ensuing love of herbs and weeds the pub and wine drinkers can look forward to the first of the 2020 saw her undertake horticulture classes to learn everything she whites reaching the shelves. Julian Grounds sums up, “We felt could about edible greens. “Weeds are my thing,” Wright says. “It’s good because it gets you out into your local environment, and you learn to live more seasonally.” Greystone Cellar Door & Kitchen is open daily from 10am-5pm. August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW NEW WORLD ORDER THE new Covid-19 world order both unites start up, exports also continue to suffer. needs to be addressed before the new us and separates us. From our working- Understatement. We know we are in a long- vintage (August-October) needs vat space. from-home, social distancing/self-isolating/ haul crisis. In response to the pandemic France alone has authorised the crisis shielding options, somehow the world the European Union (EU) has put in place distillation of 200 million litres, into industrial keeps turning, and essential needs, not a €750 billion (~AUD$1,227 bn) financial alcohol, which is used in pharmaceutical solely medical and social care, are met by package for member countries, across all and cosmetics sectors. Hand sanitiser is those who can’t work from home: shop staff, businesses. a likely resultant product. refuse collectors, delivery folk, police and military, school staff … language unheard The organisation CEEV, which represents In the early stages of Europe’s version of at the beginning of the year is now so EU wine businesses, has estimated about of the Covid-19 crisis, France’s famous familiar no rummaging through dictionaries 30% of wine consumption (and 50% en primeur (futures) tastings of Bordeaux is necessary: words such as lockdown, by value) in the 27 countries of the EU wines was another casualty of banning furlough, PPE, anosmia. happens (happened) in the hospitality mass gatherings. This campaign is when a big chunk of sales of the newest vintage (in In the UK, in very short order, off-licences “France alone has this case the 2019) of, mainly, the poshest (bottle shops), originally excluded, were properties takes place, up to two years added to the list of ‘essential’ retailers – authorised the crisis before the wines are bottled. those allowed/told to stay open during the pandemic, as grocery stores saw distillation of 200 million Originally Bordeaux organisers held nearly a 60% increase in beers, wines hope for a postponement of the tastings and spirit sales in the first week of litres, into industrial (which draw thousands of global trade and lockdown (week commencing March journalists to the city) to the summer rather 23 in the UK). Some off-licences even alcohol, which is used than outright cancellation. For many years had to suspend online order-taking as there has been almost ritualistic discussion, demand dramatically spiked. According in pharmaceutical and in the UK at least, around whether six to a YouGov poll this early figure looked months after the vintage is the best time to to be mainly a direct transfer from what cosmetics sectors. be tasting and selling wines that have not would otherwise have been sales in the yet undergone their full cask maturation, closed-down hospitality sector. Hand sanitiser is a likely so will change in structure and flavour, including sometimes tweaking of the final Inevitably, key globally impor tant resultant product.” proportions of grape varieties. Might 12 marketplace and meeting events such months after the vintage be better? as Prowein (Germany) and Vinitaly (Italy), sector. One immediate effect is unsold were cancelled for a year, along with wine. It has been estimated around one In reality, two important ingredients are innumerable other events, big and small. All billion litres of wine are now surplus to needed for a successful campaign: a that seems like a lifetime ago. But economic requirements. For comparison Australia’s good vintage and a reasonably confident downtowns and phased emergence entire wine production in 2019 was about economy. The former seems assured; from lockdown over several months has 1.2 billion litres. It’s a sizeable surplus. And reports state quality of the 2019s is created a new wine lake in Europe and one that logistically, let alone financially, high; but the global economy seems to crippled some in the wine industry. With be heading towards, with some parts the hospitality and tourism sectors only just already in, recession (though hope is beginning, in some countries, to tentatively for a V-shape, with rapid recovery, rather than a slower U-shape). 18 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

The viral pandemic offered an interesting the hospitality sector in the EU) is turned CONNECT ON SOCIAL opportunity: it could have provided the off overnight and exports fall, financial WITH WINESTATE chance to ‘revolutionise’ en primeur by survival is precarious, hence the need permanently deferring the vintage being for substantive state support schemes. tasted, so that the 2019s might be tasted in Early on in the piece, the director general April 2021, and so on. If the tastings were of the OIV (a technical intergovernmental to happen 18 months after the vintage, organisation working with vines and wine; some wines would already be in bottle, not solely European), Pau Roca, warned of and those with the longest cask maturation lower consumption, a decrease in average would be approaching their moment of prices, inevitably knocking on to hit Follow us and keep up to date with bottling. Trade tasting assessments, on producers’ profitability. He suggested the all our latest wine info, tastings, which commercial decisions are made on worst-affected countries face rebuilding competitions and events on behalf of customers, would undoubtedly decisions akin to some of those faced at facebook, twitter and instagram. more closely match (near)-bottled reality. the end of World War Two. What has actually happened creates its And all the time producers are still working own issues. The campaign went ahead at in the vineyards, undertaking the usual social distance. Usually, after the tastings operations during the growing season, of cask wine in Bordeaux (April), trade with increased public health protocols. The decide what they’ll offer to customers vintage has not been furloughed. Added to and journalists write their assessments the practicalities of managing vineyards and scores. Then the wines are put on the under pandemic conditions, there is market (around May, June). For the ‘Covid- speculation about how the wine industry campaign’, wines were being put on sale might change, possibly permanently, in the prior to press critique. Cask samples wake of Covid-19. A bigger share for online were sent out to key personnel in different sales? Virtual wine tastings, wine education markets for assessments to follow. Some and winery tours? What about travel – meet declined to taste. Samples of unfinished the winemaker … in the winery … from the wine are fragile beasts; they can start comfort of your living room? Here to stay, or to deteriorate unpredictably and quite jettisoned at the first opportunity to ‘shake quickly. For those consumers who buy in hands’ again? this high-priced segment of the market, it may be prudent to be aware of variable scores and verdicts. Perhaps this, and stark, global economic reality, has been reflected in the prices: many properties have released their wines at prices 20 to 30% below the lesser quality 2018 vintage. The broader picture is looking pretty gloomy across Europe. When nearly a third of your business (average across August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY EFFORT EQUALS REWARDS BIODYNAMIC is older than the organic of vineyards. It is useful if the vine does less prone to rapid stress during extreme movement but less popular and shrouded develop deeper root systems as that would weather events – in particular heat.” in mystery and some would say a degree of help in the fight against dryer, climate hocus-pocus. It is the agricultural practices change driven vintages. This view is reinforced by winemaker pioneered by Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) Troy Kalleske in the Barossa Valley. His the Austrian philosopher and scientist. In Byodynamic since 2011, family owned family have been following BD practices 1924 he gave a series of lectures, shortly Paxton Wines in the McLaren Vale, uses since the 1990s and were certified in before he died, in which he preached that the whole gambit of BD preparations. 1998. In 2008 the Barossa experienced digesting food grown through his methods Preparation 508 is Cassuarina Tea. “This 2 weeks at 40 degrees C. “Whilst our would enhance spiritual development. Put is a field application which is high in silica vineyard was somewhat affected by it another way – we are what we eat. A content and we firmly believe it can help the heat that year, it looked remarkably distinguishing feature of biodynamic (BD) reduce the severity of botrytis infections,” fresh and green, and I have no doubt farming is the use of nine biodynamic comments Operations Manager Ben that was because of BD, making the soil preparations prescribed by Steiner for Paxton. I asked Ben what beneficial signs healthier and as a result the vines were the purpose of enhancing soil quality more robust and resilient. Same as in and stimulating plant life. They consist of “Whilst our vineyard 2011 when it was extremely wet (twice mineral, plant, or animal manure extracts, the normal rainfall) and cool during usually fermented and applied in small was somewhat affected the growing season. These wet, humid proportions to compost, manures, soil, or conditions resulted in high disease directly onto plants. by the heat that year, it pressure (mildew, botrytis) throughout the Barossa and South Eastern Australia. One preparation, number 501, is sprayed looked remarkably fresh In 2011, a lot of chemicals were sprayed onto the vine. It consists of finely ground on vineyards but many grapes still quartz crystals that have been placed in and green, and I have no went unharvested and many wineries cow horns and buried underground in didn’t make wines. At Kalleske, we still spring and then dug up in autumn. The doubt that was because harvested all of our grapes and made quartz is then diluted with rainwater and all of our wines. This was farming 100% sprayed on the foliage to encourage of BD, making the soil organically/biodynamically without using sunlight and ripening. chemicals. In what was a poorly rated healthier and as a result vintage our GSM went on to pick up three Also popular is preparation 500. Made trophies at the London International Wine from cow manure which is placed into the vines were more Challenge,” adds Troy. locally sourced female cow horns and buried over winter. It is dug up in spring, robust and resilient.” Biodynamics also involves working with mixed with rainwater and stirred for 1 hour the cosmos and following the moon, sun then sprayed on the soil before sunset at there were in the vineyard when he started and planetary cycles. Cullen Wines is a a time when the moon is opposite Saturn. using BD preparations. “The first sign of leading BD producer in Margaret River. Two or even three applications are made change is seen dramatically in the soil after They carry out their vineyard work on the during the year. According to advocates removing herbicides, the soil becomes right days according to the astrological of biodynamics this application results in darker and more friable in a matter of calendar. The lunar cycle is divided up into more aerated permeable soils with better months. A biodynamic vineyard aims to be flower, fruit, root and leaf days. It seems pH balance and helps roots to grow full of all forms of life, from the microbes a lot of effort and inconvenience to go deeper allowing the vine to pick up more in the soil to the predators in the sky. The through and can you taste the difference nutrients. It is also claimed that the soil has vines generally appear balanced and in the final product? There is no clear more earthworms and micro-organisms. proof of this, so the jury is still out on that One horn is enough to spray a hectare one. But the approach can produce some 20 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

interesting unique styles of wines. Whilst We have to wash still maintaining their ripeness Cullen’s over 32,000 red wines are often picked at lower wine glasses than normal baumé levels and therefore each year ... produce lower alcohol wines. They believe the vines achieve physiological ripeness at so you don’t have to. lower baumé levels due to their vineyard management and can therefore be picked Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide earlier. Minimal intervention in the winery phone +61 8 8357 9277 or goes along with biodynamic farming. In this way “the vineyard creates the wine”, on-line comments winemaker and owner Vanya Cullen. Their wines are never powerful but medium bodied, elegant, fresh, but ripe fruit-driven wines, that can go well with food and it makes them a point of difference over other wines. “I can always spot our wines due to the lower alcohol levels,” Vanya adds. At Paxton they take a more practical view of the calendar. “The time taken to cover the number of hectares means we generally straddle the ideal timing for most activities. Harvest decisions can be made in conjunction with the lunar calendar, however, due to the number of ideal picking days in the calendar, priority is given to the most special parcels of fruit,” says Ben. But he reckons the rate and concentration of sap movement and its location in the vine relates to the lunar calendar, so it makes sense to do any major pruning when most of the activity is at its lowest point. Is it all worth the effort, when you consider it has taken some producers 10 years to convert their vineyards over to BD? Troy Kalleske makes an interesting point, “I really don’t see any challenges with going BD. I know some operators are hesitant to go full BD because they say they want to fall back to chemicals in ‘bad’ years if they require them. However, it’s the ‘bad’ years where BD works.” August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING ROAD TRIP NSW - THE PLEASURES ON OUR OWN DOORSTEP QANTAS has announced the airline won't vintage because the wines are a showcase planted to the Italian varietal, Negroamaro, be resuming international flights until March for slow winemaking. Zinfandel holds pride to produce deeply-flavoured reds and a next year. On the bright side, Australians of place at Lowe, but we took home a rosé dubbed The Blushing Fox. have a whole continent at their disposal superlative Organic Merlot and Headstone to stave off the cabin fever of coronavirus Rosé. If you are travelling with friends I fell in love with the south coast of NSW lockdown and my home state of NSW is or family, book ahead for a one-hour when Tourism NSW invited me to spend bigger than Spain and Germany combined. designated tasting on the outside terrace. a long weekend on the stretch of coast In June, the experience of just being able from Batemans Bay to Ulladulla. If oysters to hit the highway seemed like a truly The Mudgee Homestead Guesthouse are a passion, this is the region for you. liberating experience and our first road trip is located only 11 minutes’ drive from The Narooma Oyster Festival has been took us to Mudgee. Lowe's and nine minutes from Robert re-scheduled to April/May next year, but Oatley Vineyards and Robert Stein there are plenty of places offering luscious The annual Flavours of Mudgee event, bivalves to go or taste. which draws more than 12,000 visitors a “Berry is also forging year, is still scheduled for November 21st. A leading mecca for oyster fans is Tathra But there are more than 40 cellar doors ahead with key festivals Oysters. The Rodely family have been to sample in the meantime. We made a farming Sydney rock oysters on Nelson pitstop at Roth's Wine Bar, which has been as many other areas Lake for 32 years. Their tagline is - Imagine serving up good food, wine and music an oyster-growing area in the middle of a since 1923. The wine cellar features most have been forced to National Park. No, it's not a dream. The of the local bottlings and the cosy hangout park under discussion is Mimosa Rocks is a reminder that Roth's operates one of cancel because of National Park and Tathra have scooped NSW's oldest wine bar licenses. up more than 180 awards for their oysters COVID-19 restrictions.” since 1988. But bookmark a visit for later Mudgee wineries started the social this year because they only sell oysters media hashtag #winefromthebush to Winery. An imposing Federation-style in peak condition during a seven-month attract more visitors post-lockdown. A true property on 16 hectares, birdsong is a season from December to June. standout is Gooree Park Wines, the largest natural alarm clock and the surrounding winery in the region, and also a renowned bushland is home to a mob of kangaroos. There's no season at Eden Smokehouse. thoroughbred stud. At the cellar door, you There are two plush guest lounges Operated by Stan Soroka, the company can go upmarket like the racehorses going where you can feel like a member of the is also one of the south coast's must- through their paces on the manicured squattocracy, a billiards room and the stops. With a laundry list of awards for its property with the Premium Collection, seven guestrooms could grace the pages smoked meats and seafood, it's a tough including 2017 Crowned Glory Shiraz. of Country Style magazine. choice deciding what to take home. The Or stock up on everyday drops such as smoked eel is right up there with the Gooree Park Chardonnay. On weekends, guests can enjoy a best you'll find in the Netherlands, which four-course meal, courtesy of head chef, prides itself on the delicacy. Other hot Next stop Lowe Wines, one of the NSW's Janelle Bull, formerly of the renowned tips are the smoked old-style bacon and first organic and biodynamic vineyards. Cleopatra's in Blackheath. The property's smoked Mexican chilli mussels. Specialising in small batch winemaking, own vineyard - the Frenzied Fox - is enthusiasts from all over the world join Tilba, the picture-perfect town made the Lowe winemakers every year during famous on River Cottage Australia, is - fits the bill of that over-used expression 22 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

- idyllic. Only a short drive from Horse Coolangatta Estate, Cambewarra Estate Visit our website and keep Head Rock, Gulaga National Park and and Jervis Bay Brewing and Pigs Fly craft up to date with all our latest Mount Dromedary, one of the best places beers. Food and produce stalls on hand wine info, news, competitions, to stay a couple of nights is The Bryn for the two-day blowout include Kangaroo at Tilba. Billing itself as a 4.5-star B&B Valley Olives, Jim Wild's Oysters, Nomad tastings and events. and set in four hectares of park-style Kitchen BBQ and the South Coast Beef Become a subscriber to enter gardens, this is the elegant country Producers Association. house experience bar none. into our exciting regular The Berry Gardens Festival will take place competitions. One of the highlights of Tilba is Tilba just before the food festival on October Real Dairy. Its predecessor, the ABC 15th to 18th, allowing access to eight Follow us and keep up to Cheese Factory, opened in 1891 and gorgeous gardens. The most glamorous date with all our latest the business is still housed in the and secluded place to stay is Mount Hay wine info, tastings and building of the same name. Two local Retreat. Located on 145 hectares near dairy farmers, Nic and Erica Dibden, the spectacular escarpment of Broughton events on facebook, twitter now own the company and specialise Head, the property is a working farm and instagram. in artisanal cheeses made from the surrounded by native bush. There are five milk of their pure Jersey herd. A variety luxury suites with soaring ceilings and all Winestate Magazine of cheddars, Persian and Greek fetta, the trappings of a 5-star hotel. All of them @WinestateEd parmesan, pecorino and haloumi are just sport panoramic views, but when you want the headliners. to do something active there's a 35 metre indoor heated pool, a giant outdoor chess Berry is only two hours drive from Sydney set, ornamental koi to feed and a \"cloud and 2.5 hours drive from Canberra yet swing\". Crooked River Wines, Silos Estate delivers the country getaway vibe in and Mountain Ridge Wines are only a short spades. A major drawcard for its chic drive away. boutique shopping, the town has also become a major magnet for girls-just- Dates of festivals in this article may want-to-have-fun groups. The Luxe South be subject to change. Please check Coast tour specialists offer women-only online before you intend to go and trips such as the Wine, Vine and Dine tour remember to abide by your state’s that includes visits to three local wineries regulations in relation to COVID-19, or you can enjoy scones amid the vines on maintain social distancing and good the High Tea and Bubbles Tour. hygiene practices. Berry is also forging ahead with key festivals as many other areas have been forced to cancel because of COVID-19 restrictions. The South Coast Food & Wine Festival will be held from October 16th to 17th at White Sands Park, Huskisson-Jervis Bay. Exhibitors include Two Figs Winery, August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 23

TO THE BEAT OF A DIFFERENT DRUM SETTING A SUCCESSFUL RHYTHM FOR THE RIVERLAND AND BEYOND DAN TRAUCKI MOST people in the wine industry From the outset, rather than produce travel along the mainstream path to large quantities of “run of the mill” wines (as achieve their goals and/or greatness. most local producers did at the time), Eric Occasionally you come across someone focused on handcrafted, small volumes who marches to the beat of a different of superb organic wines, each of which drum. Such a person is Eric Semmler, of was a true reflection of that variety. A great 919 Wines in the Riverland. Eric started Australian expression of the variety, be it out as a horticulturalist before becoming Spanish tempranillo and touriga nacional, a winemaker. After working for a while Italian vermentino and sangiovese, or at Brown Bros and All Saints in Victoria French petit manseng and durif (including he became, for many years, the fortified a cracking sparkling durif). winemaker at BRL Hardy in the Riverland, turning out some pretty impressive In typical pioneering fashion, 919 Wines fortifieds from that massive winery. were the first winery to put “Proudly Riverland Made” on their labels. This at In 2004, Eric and wife Jenny set up 919 a time when “Riverland” was seen as Wines in the back blocks of Glossop in the detracting from a wine’s status, thus the Riverland. From the start they did things local wines were merely labelled as South differently from the “usual” in the area. Australian, rather than broadcast their Most of the varieties they planted at the Riverland provenance. time, and since, weren’t being grown in the Riverland as they were Mediterranean The wines were elegantly packaged and varieties which were more heat and sold for between two to three times the drought tolerant – that is more global prices commanded by most of the local warming proof than the classic varieties wines. Added to this list of achievements, grown in this area. They built their winery 919 Wines was the first winery to produce out of mud and straw bales and achieved a durif in South Australia, in the days Organic status for the property. when durif was solely the domain of Rutherglen and Griffith. 24 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

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Their ideas, policies and pricing attracted more than a fair share of critics and sceptics from the outset. However, over time, the dynamic duo of Eric and Jenny have proved them wrong with each vintage of wine selling out and demand far outstripping supply for some of their exceptional handcrafted wines. In addition, under Jenny’s capable hands the marketing of 919 has always been a little unconventional and often ahead of its times, ranging from art exhibitions through to music festivals and initiating the Riverland’s first ever, “Small Winemakers Exhibition”, where the smallest five winemakers in the area came together to exhibit their wares. The annual “Bath Tub Sale” is another one of Jenny’s clever initiatives, where towards the end of vintage each year, a sale is held to clear the deck of the ‘odds and sods’ left over from prior years – bin ends, part cases, unlabelled bottles (“cause we ended up 26 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

In typical pioneering fashion, 919 Wines were the first winery to put “Proudly Riverland Made” on their labels. 30 labels short!”) and so on. This allows handcrafted, higher quality, higher priced Previous page: Eric and Jenny Semmler in their complete focus on the wine fermenting wines. Today, there are several premium vineyard canoe. away in the winery. quality boutique wineries located within the Australian wine industry’s engine Above: The Riverland and Eric Semmler. Eric, true to his earlier calling, produces room called the Riverland. Some of these Opposite page from top to bottom: Couple in the some of the best award winning fortified wineries are also Organic and many of vineyard, classic muscat in the vineyard, Eric and wines made in South Australia – including their wines are today medal winners and a sensational pale dry apera (what we used proudly showcase the quality of Riverland Jenny Semmler in the vineyard. to call sherry), muscat, tawny and topaque wines to Australian and overseas wine (formerly tokay), all of which have garnered consumers. By the way, some of these a raft of medals/awards over the years and wines were made by Eric who contract are positively divine. produces wine for a number of small, up- and-coming Riverland producers. Eric is no stranger to Winestate Magazine, having been a judge on a number of the The Semmler’s have been an integral various wine judging panels conducted part, and to some extent quiet, enthusiastic over recent years. In addition, he won the drivers in the rise in reputation and Winestate Magazine award of “Australian quality of the Riverland wines, from being Winemaker of the Year” in 2013, the first considered as being merely cask wines Riverland winemaker to do so. (last century), through to cheap and cheerful bottle wines (start of this century), Eric and Jenny’s forward-thinking ideas to today being taken seriously as premium and attitudes have not only paid off for quality Australian wines. 919 Wines, but also indirectly led to a number of other local wineries adopting the same philosophy of smaller volumes of August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 27

AN EM ERGING W ORLD 28 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

With the impact of climate change the importance of emerging varieties cannot be underestimated. DAN TRAUCKI MANY wine drinkers are aware that there grown here, so that one day we could are over 1,200 different grape varieties see Australian Xinomavro, Malagousia, used in the making of wine. What most Mavrodafni and so on, added to the list. aren’t aware of is the fact that 85 per cent of the worlds wine is made from only 35 Right now, there are 156 different grape varieties. Of course there are the “usual varieties being grown here, last year 154 suspects” such as chardonnay, cabernet and next year, who knows! So, once you sauvignon, shiraz, etc., but at number take out all the “mainstream” varieties that three is, Airen, a ubiquitous Spanish white you know of, there are still around 121 new variety that used to be number one but “Emerging/Alternative” varieties grown. luckily is falling down the rankings as it gets ripped out. This must make us the most “experimentacious” wine country in the There are so many varieties that world, as very few countries experiment Australian wine drinkers have never heard with varieties outside of the ‘mainstream of, three years ago Winestate introduced 35’ and their own indigenous varieties. the EVAs (Emerging Variety Awards) Whereas all the varieties that we making entries open to all non-mainstream experiment with are new to our country. varieties produced in Australia. This level of experimentation is on the rise as global warming begins to have Many of the “Old World” wine countries a more significant impact on our climate have a raft of native varieties, for example and viticulture. Georgia (the birthplace of wine) has 525 different native varieties. Australia being so It is these varieties that the EVAs aim young and remote has no native varieties. to attract so that they can be assessed However, we do have two varieties created and rated by the judging panel and then by the CSIRO, Tarrango and Taminga, exposed to Aussie wine consumers so as well as two mutant varieties in Red as to broaden their drinking horizons and Semillon and White Cabernet which help them find interesting new flavours with mutated to have grapes which are the a lot more confidence in their purchases. opposite colour to what they should be. The focus on new emerging styles is on the Being such a young wine country and Mediterranean varieties, from Italy, Spain, thus free of the mass of regulations Portugal, with some interest on the French which smother creativity in the Old Wine varieties such as Viognier, Marsanne, World, Australian winemakers are free Pinot Gris/Grigio in the whites and Durif, to experiment with any variety that takes Mourvèdre [AKA Monastrell (Spanish) or their fancy. For instance right now there Mataro (Australian)], Cabernet Franc and are a number of Greek native grape Petit Verdot in the reds. variety cuttings going through our strict quarantine process so that they can be The popular Spanish red variety, Tempranillo, has just about become a “mainstream” variety here, as there are August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 29

Being such a young wine country and thus free of the mass of regulations which smother creativity in the Old Wine World, Australian winemakers are free to experiment with any variety that takes their fancy. 30 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

now well over 400 wineries in Australia Saperavi won the first ever “SapPrize producing a tempranillo wine. Award” in 2017 run by Georgia, to identify the best “Non-Georgian” Saperavi in the I believe that the following white varieties world. Not only did an Australian wine win have a good chance of being adopted into the top trophy, but four out of the five gold the drinking habits of Aussie wine drinkers medal winners came from Australia. and possibly, eventually becoming part of the mainstream. In no particular order These days Australia is turning out some these are: Albariño, Vermentino, Fiano, sensational Zinfandels, which can match Verdejo, Arinto and Petit Manseng, all but the very best American wines (like with Picpoul possibly becoming the Ridge Vineyards) from this big, bold variety. go-to wine for oysters. The varieties of My favourite of the big wines is durif, of Fiano and Vermentino are well on the which Rutherglen is its spiritual homeland way to establishing themselves, whilst the these days, however it produces cracking Austrian super-star, Grüner Veltliner, is wines wherever it is grown. skyrocketing up the charts, having gone from two producers a decade ago, to over Finally, there are a couple of French fifty producers today – a meteoric rise. The varieties that are well worth mentioning, other varieties mentioned are rising much Cabernet Franc and Malbec (Cot). Cab more gradually. Franc has always lived in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon but is an excellent As far as the reds are concerned, variety as it produces beautifully aromatic, there are two separate directions being slightly lighter wines than its big brother, followed. The main one being the which again makes them eminently suitable adoption of the Mediterranean varieties in today’s marketplace. Malbec struggled from the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and here until the turn of the century, however Portugal) and Italy, with the others since then there are a growing number embracing big, rich, powerful wines from of “world-class” malbec being produced wherever they come from. here. Incidentally, this year we have seen the first Australian vintage of the In the Mediterranean reds, Tempranillo Portuguese white variety Fernao Pires leads the charge followed by Garnacha and the Spanish red variety Prieto Picudo, (Grenache) then a long way back both from the Riverland. by Graciano, Monastrell (Mataro or Mourvèdre) and Touriga Nacional. The importance of emerging varieties cannot be underestimated, as global The Italian charge is well and truly warming continues affecting the ability being led by Sangiovese with 303 of regions to produce wines from the producers with Lagrein, Montepulciano, “traditional” varieties. For Australia to Nebbiolo, Aglianico, Barbera and Nero maintain a viable and ecologically sound d’Avola following well behind the flagship wine industry into the next century, we need Sangiovese. Most of these varieties to adapt the varieties we grow to those are being grown in the warmer areas best suited to the encroaching climate making them a bit richer, less acidic and conditions. This is where the Mediterranean more approachable than their Italian varieties will shine, with their heat and counterparts, which makes them ideal for drought tolerance. these “instant times” of less patience and earlier consumption. They are becoming So, I would like to suggest that you quite popular with everyday wine drinkers. tempt/tease your palate with a few of these emerging variety wines. You may In the ‘Big’ wine category the varieties encounter the occasional one that is not making the most impact/ground are – Durif, to your liking, but the vast majority will be Tannat, Saperavi and Zinfandel. There are fabulous wines that broaden your drinking some exceptional wines being made from horizons. Cheers! these varieties and in fact an Australian August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 31

BEST OF A Beautiful Bunch PETER SIMIC “reject wines” that were either too developed with “excellent use of oak”. Also of interest and past their use by date or were sweet and was the comment about a stylistic shift Here we present another great annual sour in terms of unbalanced flavours. But as where less can be better; less overripe fruit judging of shiraz & syrah wines spread always there are some gems, you just have and less unbalanced tannic oak more isn't over a week of judging. We were to look harder at this price. always more. Stylistically many of these delighted to receive close to 500 wines could be regarded as elegant mid-weight during this difficult Covid-19 period with From $25 - $35 the results were mixed, wines, along with some well-crafted and other major wine shows cancelled for with wines in transition, winemakers not sure balanced blockbusters. We are also starting the moment. We all need to support the whether these wines should be positioned to see more syrah names rather than shiraz, wine industry now, whether it be from a lower or higher in price. Some excellent, perhaps as a point of difference. trade or consumer perspective and we some developed. are pleased to do our bit. Here is where it gets interesting. From $80 Then “whammo” from $35 plus we found plus the judges commented on the mixed The reviews for all the recommended wines more consistency with much higher quality results, from great performers to some can be found on the following pages plus wines. This level has moved up from a few overblown pretenders. This continued and class comments for each price bracket but years’ ago where we would have expected seemed even more so with the $100 - $200 let's discuss some overall observations. this quality from the $25 plus bracket. category which has grown considerably in Consistency and quality continued in the number in the past few years. The judges Going through the various price categories other categories right up to the $50 mark. questioned whether the China influence was here is what we found: a factor where high alcohol wines of up to Then the judges found the “sweet spot” 16% were in demand for importers along Firstly, for the great value wines under $15 from $50 - $80 with another step up in with overripe fruit and strong tannins. Not these offer exactly what you expect, nice quality where it was clear that great fruit a problem if these are balanced, but too uncomplicated quaffers. Wines for drinking met great winemaking. Comments from our not thinking, where fresh primary fruit is all judges included “attention to detail” along that matters. Then for a few dollars more you would expect a lift but we found a number of THE JUDGES (left to right): John McGovern, Matthew Pick, Shane Harris, Adam Clay, Peter Pollard, Phil Reedman MW, Bill Hardy, Chris Hatcher, Louisa Rose, Peter Simic and Stephen John. 32 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

many of these had disjointed “arms and “provenance”. As they say “a peek at the Clay, Chief Winemaker, Pirathon; Bill Hardy, legs” as one judge pointed out. These may label is worth ten years’ experience”. Here be popular with consumers but rarely do we saw great intensity overall but some corporate oenologist for Accolade Wines; and well in show judging conditions. lacked balance, had brettanomyces issues or were showing early development, not Phil Reedman MW Master of Wine, consultant The other comment made was that a what you expect at this price. number of these wines at the pointy end for wine and retail industry. should have been in lower priced categories. Overall however, another fabulous judging “It seems that every small winery has to have a where even with all our judges’ criticisms Congratulations to Wolf Blass Wines who $100+ wine on their list irregardless of quality, the standard was very high and across because they can,” mentioned one judge. all categories there are multiple wines to were awarded the top spot for the Wolf Again the question is how many of these are choose from for every budget. Our thanks aimed at the overseas market. go to Stephen John (chair) senior winemaker Blass Platinum Label Medlands Vineyard for The Wine Group Australia; Louisa Rose, For the very top $200 plus group we pitted Chief Winemaker, Yalumba; and Leigh Francis 2016 Shiraz. Also to second and third the yardsticks from Australia and France Head Scientist AWRI; who not only judged and were surprised to see the results the final day of highly priced wines but then winners, Grounded Cru and Shingleback including one big highly rated name not also selected a top ten from all the five star recommended. (This also happened in a winners, not an easy feat. for the Grounded Cru Inc McLaren Vale couple of other categories where some other elite names failed to make the cut). It Also thanks go to our other Associate judges; Shiraz 2016 and the Shingleback D Block just goes to show that it is much harder to Matthew Pick, Chief Winemaker Seppeltsfield; get past a peer reviewed blind tasting panel John McGovern, Regional Sales Manager Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016, of three judges than an individual critic who A.P. John, Coopers; Shane Harris, Chief tastes a revealed wine and is influenced by Winemaker, Wines by Geoff Hardy; Adam respectively. Overall another fabulous judging this year where even with all our judges’ criticisms the standard was very high. Across all categories there are multiple wines to choose from for every budget. As we always say “if you have won an award with Winestate you have earned it”. Please check out our recommended wines and let us know if you agree. August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 33

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS THE STATS Under $15 $15-$20 $20-$25 that count Dee Vine Estate Nericon Shingleback Red Knot Glenlofty Go Pyrenees NUMBER TASTED: 499 South East Australia Classified McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 Shiraz 2018 HHHH $24 NUMBER AWARDED: 299 HHHH1/2 $12.99 Shiraz 2018 % awarded: 60% HHHH1/2 $19 NUMBER OF FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 26 % awarded: 5% NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 33 % awarded: 7% NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 68 % awarded: 14% NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 55 % awarded: 11% NUMBER OF THREE STARS (Bronze Award): 117 % awarded: 23% $35-$40 $40-$45 $45-$50 $50-$60 $60-$80 Mount Avoca Old Vine Taltarni Estate Pyrenees Pirathon Black Barossa Grounded Cru Inc Gemtree Ernest Allen Organic Pyrenees Shiraz 2018 Valley Shiraz 2016 McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 HHHHH $40 HHHHH $49 Shiraz 2016 Shiraz 2018 HHHHH $37.95 HHHHH $50 HHHHH $60 34 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

$25-$30 $30-$35 FINAL TOP 10 EQUAL TOP She-Oak Hill Estate Heathcote Shiraz 2015 The Top Ten Shiraz as selected by Leconfield McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 HHHHH $26 highest judges scores are: HHHH1/2 $30 Blewitt Springs Wine Co Single Vineyard 1 Wolf Blass Platinum Label Medlands McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 HHHHH $28 Vineyard Barossa Shiraz 2016 $200 2 Grounded Cru Inc McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 $50 3 Shingleback D Block Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 $55 4 McGuigan Personal Reserve VV Hunter Valley Shiraz 2017 $80 5 Gemtree Ernest Allan McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 $60 6 Mount Avoca Old Vine Organic Pyrenees Shiraz 2018 $37.95 7 Grounded Cru Inc McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 $50 8 Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2012 $39.95 9 Tim McNeil Wines Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 $38 10 Mr Riggs 'JFR' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 $50 $8 0 -$ 10 0 $10 0-$20 0 $200+ McGuigan Personal Tim Smith Wines TSW Wolf Blass Platinum Reserve VV Hunter Reserve Barossa Label Medlands Valley Shiraz 2017 Shiraz 2018 Vineyard Barossa HHHH1/2 $125 Shiraz 2016 HHHHH $80 HHHHH $200 MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & 35 SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XV STARTS PAGE 49. August 2020 W I N E S TAT E

1ST As a site long renowned for growing 2ND PLA CE outstanding shiraz – in fact, Frost regards PLA CE it as being unique from a viticultural 1ST PLACE perspective - it has been critical in the 2ND PLACE making of Wolf Blass’s flagship wine. WOLF BLASS PLATINUM GROUNDED CRU INC LABEL MEDLANDS VINEYARD Gently sloping towards the North Para MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ 2016 $50 BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2016 $200 River, the microclimate benefits from cooling breezes flowing down-river from SECOND placegetter Grounded Cru NIGEL HOPKINS the foothills and enjoys optimum sunlight, Inc McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 (rec IT WOULD seem fitting that the winner of low rainfall and low humidity. retail $50) has achieved a remarkable Winestate’s 2020 Shiraz Challenge should result given that its owner/winemaker come from the heart of the Barossa Valley The vineyard is comprised of ancient soils Geoff Thompson launched his label only – quite literally. ranging from loamy sands over light clays three years ago in 2017. All the more to sandy loams over medium clays, laid remarkable given that his 2018 vintage The Wolf Blass Platinum Label Medlands down five million years ago when an uplift came in eighth, giving him two of the Vineyard Shiraz 2016 (recommended retail of the eastern ranges and a sinking of the top 10 shiraz wines out of 499 entered. $200), which fended off challenges from valley floor caused the central valley to fill close to 500 of Australia’s finest shiraz with sediments. This unique terroir results Thompson, like many winemakers, has wines, is sourced from the former Tolley in shiraz of purity, elegance, tight structure had a roundabout path to this level of vineyard at Dorrien which, winemaker and flawless balance. winemaking. His first career was as a Steve Frost explains, is geographically scientist working for nearly a decade dead centre of the famous wine region. “It produces a unique, quite savoury tannin as a production manager for Kodak. structure with ‘blue’ shiraz characteristics But he also had a passion for hot air rather than the more usual deep, dark black ballooning, which often took place in shiraz characters,” Frost adds. wine regions, including the Barossa, and eventually he had to come down to Although the vineyard has a heritage going back to 1882, both the current vines and the Platinum label have a far shorter history. Although a couple of older blocks remain within the 25ha Medlands vineyard, most of the shiraz was replanted in the early 1990s and the single vineyard Platinum label was started by chief winemaker Chris Hatcher and then senior winemaker Caroline Dunn only in 2008 when Wolf Blass was evolving from its signature blended wines to including a range of regional and single vineyard wines. “Today, other than our most affordable wines, all our wines are regional and straight varietal, other than our iconic wine Black Label (cabernet/shiraz/malbec),” Hatcher says. Frost, who started his career in the Yarra Valley where his family owned restaurants, took over from Dunn in 2008 and, along with other Wolf Blass duties, has had both the Platinum range and the Black Label blend under his personal control ever since. The Medlands Vineyard has proved so reliable that the Platinum Shiraz has been made every year since, with only two exceptions in 2011 and 2017 when the quality wasn’t up to scratch. 36 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

AND THE WINNERS ARE... FROM MORE THAN 4OO SHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS TAST E D THESE ARE TRULY THE CREAM OF THE CRO P. earth and combine this with his love for 3RD been made each vintage since with the kitchens and gardening, which ever so PLA CE exception of 2007 (due to drought) and gently steered him into the wine industry. 2008 (heat). 3RD PLACE “I had a mid-life crisis at a very young “We make the D Block Reserve Shiraz age in my late 20s when I decided to SHINGLEBACK D BLOCK only when we believe it will live and age follow my passion,” he says. RESERVE MCLAREN VALE for a long time,” Davey says, adding that they see it as a collector’s item packaged First it was in a production role with SHIRAZ 2016 $55 in a weighty, imposing bottle sealed Normans Wines in Melbourne, then as under cork. assistant winemaker with McPhersons AS with the first two placegetters, the Wines in central Victoria and eventually vineyard is again the heart and soul of For more everyday drinking chief winemaker for some 11 years, Shingleback’s D Block Reserve Shiraz Shingleback, of course, has its core which gave him exposure to a wide (recommended retail $55), in this case Red Knot family of wines, including the range of vineyards from King Valley to a small niche of the 140ha Davey Estate Red Knot Classified Shiraz 2018 ($18 the Yarra. vineyard planted on clay loam soil over RRP) which provided Shingleback with limestone that’s considered ideal for big further success in the Shiraz Challenge In 2012 he moved with his family back red wines. by being named category winner in the to his original home town of Adelaide $15-$20 category. It’s more of a fruit and the following year started his own Winemaker and co-owner John Davey driven, mid-weight wine than the D Block wine services business, which evolved says D Block refers to the original 1995 Reserve Shiraz, which is made in small, into the launch of the Grounded Cru label planting on the estate, the Davey Block, five tonne open fermenters, then matured in 2017 – “grounded” meaning down to “whose black cracking clay soils tend to in fine-grained French (70 per cent) and earth, a connection to terroir, and “cru” provide unique characteristics such as American oak hogsheads. symbolising quality: “It’s not just a silly quite a bit of violet”. play on words,” Thompson says. “D Block takes a little more time, it’s What has since become Shingleback’s tighter, more restrained,” Davey says, Thompson buys his grapes from local most iconic wine was first released in “so it’s not released for at least three growers, makes his wine at McLaren 2001, and although a reserve wine to years. The 2016 is the current release Vintners and is based at Parri Estate, be made only in the best vintages, it has and now it’s really hitting its straps and whose owner John Phillips also has the getting attention.” Ingoldby vineyard whose 75-80-year- old vines provide the backbone of the Davey’s tasting notes describe Grounded Cru Shiraz. a perfumed shiraz with aromas of blackberry and mulberry highlighted by “There’s nice red alluvial soil with some nuances of white pepper, bay leaf and sand and clay,” Thompson says, “and the cigar box-like oak. There’s luscious dark vines have amazing balance because berry fruit, together with notes of spice of their age. The tannin structure is very and mint that fill the finely textured mid- formed but very fine grained, so they’re palate and flow into the long, focused immensely structured wines without being finish. overly extracted or aggressively tannic. And while Davey sees the D Block “I’m looking for elegance, balance and Reserve Shiraz as his personal texture, for textural layers, which means expression of what he hopes is the best the final decision regarding balance McLaren Vale can produce, he’s also and barrel selection is crucial. It means very down to earth about it. I keep looking at all options during the assemblage to change the final nuance “D Block is really just a pure expression and balance of the wine.” of the dirt,” he says. “It’s a wine that just makes you want to smile. We don’t want to be too complex about it – we just want people to love it.” August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 37

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL THE Queensland dining scene ended in Triangle’ in the Eagle Street Pier, Aria’s Ada Lane, 46 James Street, Fortitude February just as suddenly as the rest of forced formality and cloistered aesthetic Valley; phone (07) 3188 1418. the country. The behemoth entertainment was replaced by a far more casual interior, complex Howard Smith Wharves, which spills onto the deck surrounding the His other venture, Agnes was due to sprawling over acres of the CBD riverbank, restaurant. open a week into the lockdown much shut dozens of its venues including the to his, and business partner chef Ben events complex that previously housed Shiny wooden tabletops and copper Williamson (ex-Gerard’s & Gerard’s Bar) up to 3000 guests. accoutrements with a backdrop of cement collective horror. The gorgeous old brick walls and speckled countertops replaced warehouse spreads over several levels Millennial hangout’s Felon’s and Mr clothed tables and upholstered walls. The and mezzanines including a rooftop garden Percival’s went from heaving watering room arches around to take full advantage and private dining room that seat up to 20. holes to ghost towns overnight. Ditto the of the river views and there’s a cosy bar more sophisticated Yoko, Greca and at the front where you can snack on tapas The cluster of rooms are rustic and Stanley but the real shock was that the and oysters while checking out the eclectic industrial with wine racks dividing spaces multi-awarded and much lauded Arc, cocktail menu and more reserved wine list. allowing light to filter through and a warm headlined by chef Alanna Sapwell, was ambience to emerge. The main feature is to close for good. As this magazine is The menu is influenced by both the wood fired oven, which was yet to be released venues are re-opening but no Spanish and South American flavours fired up until this creative thinking pair, with word as yet on what will replace the bright, and techniques – it begins with a range partners Frank Li and Bianca Marchi, colourful waterfront space. of picada’s – think jamon Iberico and morphed the almost open venue into a warm olives - then moves through various bakery and bottle shop. Sapwell is now in Noosa having opened incarnations of ceviche and oysters and Esmay, a three-month pop up on the site then on to the tapas section. Croquetta To say Agnes Bakery is an unmitigated of Noosa mainstay, Wasabi. of the day, prawns in chilli and garlic, success is an understatement. Working patatas bravas and char-grilled lamb ribs overnight Williamson and his crew stoked Sweeping views over the Noosa River make for colourful and sensibly priced the fires while churning out extraordinary towards the Everglades, the food with options for both sharing or solo pursuits. baked goods such as custard and champion ‘hyper seasonal’ produce from the Barramundi tail in piquillo peppers, whole almond kouign amann, lemon curd and hinterland and surrounds in dishes such as baby squid and a selection of steaks strawberry filled doughnuts, charry Basque crab donuts with coral mayo, flathead with makes up the main course or you can cheesecakes and a range of pizzette that mountain mushrooms and Geraldton wax share a paella of seafood, meat (chicken, brought joy to our Covid-19-reduced lives. and Eucalyptus ice cream with strawberries pork, chorizo, morcilla) or live marron all and fermented honey. 2 Quamby Place, served for two (but it’s huge, so really They also produced smoked potato and Noosa; phone (07) 5449 2443. 3-4). Eagle Street Pier, 45 Eagle Street, a malted grain and treacle sourdough and Brisbane; phone (07) 3188 1444. pantry items such as wood smoked butter, Prior to the pandemic Rico Dining Aleppo pepper relish and scampi caviar appeared in the space previously While some businesses closed to spread over the bread. Crowds formed housing Matt Moran’s Aria, one of completely others morphed into takeaway socially distanced queues around the block the more shocking closures of 2019 hubs, some with great success. Leading every day from 5am. Brisbanites patiently and clearly marking the death of that the charge was Same Same, Ty Simon’s waited as the line snaked around the gritty type of venue. Dubbed the ‘Golden gorgeous new space in the Ada Lane, Fortitude Valley side streets, knowing a opposite the Calile Hotel. Sommeliers moreish Baghdad egg pizza or a luscious pared back the wine offering while bar cream filled choux pastry would be well staff organised the cocktail offering that worth the wait. came individually bottled and ready with dehydrated citrus and other essential In mid-July, the bakery morphed back garnishes. The curries, bao’s and stir- into the restaurant offering wood fired menu fries remained as flavourful and refined options like charry lamb, whole baked as ever so it was left up to us to create the fish, a plethora of smoky vegetables and bustling ambience at home. Shop AM3, delicious condiments. 22 Agnes Street, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3067 9087. Top right: Rico restaurant interior looking out to view. Bottom left: Seafood paella from Rico restaurant. 38 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS AT the time of writing, Hong Kong’s The situation spells disaster for Hong acorn-fed Iberico ham and caviar if one restaurants have been ordered to shut from Kong’s F&B industry that has already is throwing a lavish dinner party. 6pm-5am each day with only takeaway weathered the protests from last summer food available after 6pm until closing. and seen a continued downturn of business For anyone who has seemingly not been since the virus reached Hong Kong at affected economically by the current This also applies to the sale of alcohol the beginning of this year. 2020 has situation and really wants to push the which now means that people determined seen a record number of restaurant and boat out, there is also a ‘Signature Caviar to continue their evening, descend bar closures - additionally crippled by Cake’ with 100g Cristal caviar, salmon, onto public areas, plastic cups in Hong Kong’s sky-high rents and the city’s egg, cream cheese and chives for $3,000 hand desperately trying to keep their dwindling economy – but some have luckily (please order two days beforehand) and drinks (and themselves) cool in 33C managed to survive through having a loyal 24K edible gold leaf for $198. temperatures with 95% humidity. Any customer base and an innovative way of group of more than four will be liable for addressing the current restrictions. The Royal Caviar Club supplies some of a fine of $HK25,000. Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred restaurants From Michelin-starred experiences at with their wares, so epicureans will know The ban on dining and drinking inside home to new ways of communicating with, they’re in good hands. venues after 6pm was in a bid to curtail and engaging customers, we’ve picked a close contacts between large groups in few businesses who are trying to make the Delivery with love - Belon view of the most recent Covid-19 cases, most out of a rather bleak situation. Since April, Daniel Calvert the chef some of which have cropped up in at one of Hong Kong’s finest French restaurants mainly on the Kowloon side Virtual pizza-making party – Motorino restaurants, Belon, has created a of the city. On 18 July, New York pizza favourite delivery-only ‘Feast for Our Family’. Motorino in Central, hosted a cook-along The meal includes his signature Considering that Hong Kong is now with Chef Luca Marinelli via Instagram whole-roasted three yellow chicken experiencing its third wave of infections Live to explain to pizza lovers how to make with petits pois à la Française, naturally and seeing new daily record highs (the their favourite margherita or soppressata leavened bread, two mille-feuille and most recent of which was 113 on 22 July), piccante (spicy salami) pizza. his recommended perfect pairing, a critics have been quick to point the finger Aspiring maestros pre-ordered the DIY bottle of Olivier Merlin Macon La Roche at people’s apparent complacency – and kit for $208 and $228 which included Vineuse 2016. also, the efficacy of existing government pre-made dough, Motorino’s signature In an effort to support the members measures. tomato sauce and the toppings and then of his team most badly affected by undoubtedly to varying levels of success, Covid-19, such as dishwashers and back were guided through how to chop the waiters, all proceeds from the menu went ingredients like a pro and shape the directly to those who needed it most. dough to perfection by Chef Luca. In order to aid the process, diners could Top: Food from Belon restaurant. also order a bottle(s) of the house white, Left: Pizza making at Motorino restaurant. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2018 or house red, Right: Royal Caviar Club. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017. Lobster and caviar delivery – Royal Caviar Club For those determined not to let a pandemic cramp their lifestyle, distribution company, the Royal Caviar Club has diversified into home delivery with its extravagant ‘Stay at Home’ packages. There’s lobster and caviar for $980 or a full leg of 48-month aged double August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 39

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING THE Wine Library re-opened post-lockdown starters include gruyere croquettes and with avruga and lemon myrtle and Jack's in early June and word spread like wildfire - Pioik sourdough with olive oil. Creek wagyu, tuscan kale, burnt onion by mouth and social media. We popped in mustard and pickled tomatoes are on give soon after and the chic, welcoming space A variety of small plates is next on the tightly them maximum consideration. Nostalgia was packed. A Woollahra institution for over edited list and be sure to make the potato with a twist is the main theme for desserts 10 years, longtime patrons were clearly in dumplings, romesco, charred onions and such as key lime cheesecake, creme fresh evidence and palpably happy to be back in lardons part of your selection. The chicken nitro and chocolate brownie, peanut butter their favourite watering hole. liver parfait and burrata with roast capsicum ice-cream and raspberry gel. were also doing a brisk trade on the night of The trio at the helm is as expert as they are our visit. Ditto the Jerusalem artichokes, black The craze for Mexican spawned the consummate hosts. Matt Taylor-Watkins garlic, horseradish and spiced cashews. Taqueria, Estate Coogee's third dining earned his stripes at Monopole, Tetsuya's space. The south of the border feel is and The Bentley Restaurant and Bar. Sam Charcuterie and artisanal cheeses are the reinforced by neon lighting, eye-popping Jones and Tim Perlstone are alumni of other two headline categories and standouts paint and furnishings. The highlight is the Icebergs, Felix and Uccello. are the wagyu bresaola and fennel and garlic soft shell tacos available in five varieties, salami. Charltons Choice buffalo blue from including pork belly with tamarind glaze Perlstone is in charge of the wine list. A multi- Gippsland and a chocolate fudge torte with and grilled fish with chipotle mayo. The award-winning sommelier, he has participated salted caramel and hazelnut praline cream 25-strong tequila list is another good in key competitions such as the Sommelier of brought our meal to a satisfying close. reason to drop by. Enjoy straight up or in a the Year award and the Chaines des Rotisseurs margarita sipped while contemplating the Jeune Sommelier competition. Currently But one of the best things about The great beach views. Estate Coogee, 242 studying for a Master Sommelier qualification Wine Library's back-to-business approach Arden St, Coogee. Phone (02) 9315 9179. with the Court of Master Sommeliers, Perlstone is the strong support for providores, will join distinguished company. Only 240 cheesemakers and winemakers nationwide. Mary's Newtown has long been a candidates worldwide have earned the The Wine Library, 18 Oxford Street, favourite in my family because of its hard- prestigious title over the past 40 years. Woollahra. Phone (02) 9368 7484. to-beat burgers and fried chicken. Mary's Pitt Street outlet recently closed, but co- Diners can enjoy their favourite tipples There's nothing bijou about Estate Coogee, owner Jake Smyth has moved back to the on the premises or buy them in the bottle a three venue-in-one property tucked inside area where it all started - the Inner West shop to enjoy at home. There are over 60 the Coogee Crowne Plaza hotel, following its - for Mary's on Top in the historic Art Deco pouring wines, including a 2017 Commune multi-million-dollar renovation. The brainchild Lansdowne Hotel in Chippendale. of Buttons Birds Share Pinot Noir from the of chef and creative director, Matthew Adelaide Hills and rare offerings such as Butcher, who has worked with Gordon Smyth and business partner Kenny a 1948 Primitivo Quiles Fondillon Gran Ramsay and Shannon Bennett of Melbourne's Graham opened the restaurant in the Reserva Monastrell from Alicante, described Vue de Monde, Estate Coogee caters to all of middle of winter to kickstart the pub's as a combination of \"sweet caramelised fruit the local demographics. business post-lockdown. Many of the uni with raisins, dates and bee propolis\". students from nearby UTS, Notre Dame and Beachgoers can maintain the laidback vibe the University of Sydney were still AWOL Sparkling wines range from pet nats in the Terrace, an outdoor space dishing up and the popular establishment was more such as the 2017 Jean-Pierre Robinot lobster rolls, waffle fries and crab sandwiches enticing with a \"name\" eatery. Fettembulles Chenin Blanc from the Loire and Aussie craft beers and wines from a retro Valley to vintages like the 2000 Duval-Leroy Airstream trailer. More substantial fare includes You enter the premises through a small door Femme de Champagne. For those who are pork belly with salsa verde and Moreton in Knox Street and climb a concrete staircase following recent advice from The New York Bay bugs. The upmarket surfie feeling is to the astro-turfed rooftop. The inner-city views Times to take a renewed look at riesling, heightened by a profusion of plants and a across Newtown and Glebe make Mary's on there's a swathe on offer from the Rheingau screen showing endless shots of sunsets. Top a recommended sunset viewing spot. All and Alsace to the Clare Valley. We made the favourite Mary's staples have made the straight for the skin contact listings, which The main dining room is simply called move, including the signature Mary's burger, span the globe from Brian Gris Pinot Gris Kitchen and the upscale decor reflects fried chicken with mash and gravy and a from Tasmania to the 2018 Testalonga El the seafood focus of the menu. Listings vegan cheeseburger for non-meat eaters. Bandito Skin Contact Chenin Blanc from change constantly but if the scampi risotto South Africa. There's a distinct community feel in the process of ordering at the bar and waiting for You could visit The Wine Library 365 days your number to be called. A tiny bar serves a year and not repeat your wine, spirits or canned beer (no taps) and a tight selection liquor orders. The food is worth the trip, of wines. Mary's on Top, 2-6 City Road, too. A new menu skewers your attention on Chippendale. Visit tapas-style offerings centred on the freshest Aussie produce. We kicked off with Sydney Top: Interior of The Wine Library. rock oysters - a succulent treat after months Left: Champagne and oysters at The Wine Library. of home-cooking and takeaways. Other 40 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN OH Melbourne…what a time in our lives. olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, chilli and white tomato and pecorino - is the most popular Just when restaurants and cafes started wine. They’ve even made their family pizza alongside the Bastardo Grasso pizza, opening their doors from June 1 - with version of Tiramisu available. Grossi A a mixed cultural nod of potato, creamed restrictions in place - a second lockdown Casa, 80 Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000; leek, Taleggio and preserved lemon. Pastas was announced. Delivery and takeaway visit - a lusciously decadent macaroni cacio et offerings keep the city’s hospitality pepe and rigatoni with a vodka sauce round businesses going, granted in a much- Hawthorn wine bar and bottle shop, out the menu. Visit reduced capacity, but as is the way with this Mister Sandrino packs a punch with a industry, its members are strong, adaptable takeaway and delivery menu keeping much Bar Liberty is a different story, taking its and the Melbourne hospitality community of south-east Melbourne sated. Chef and cues from its smart menu by chef Casey refuses to give up. owner Daniel Schelbert and his partner, Walls - there may be dishes of raw beef with sommelier Pia Tatjana-Tukiainen have bone marrow and baby turnips or Murray South Melbourne wine bar, Bellota - garnered a strong following since opening Cod with braised pepitas and pickled under the helm of chef Nicky Riemer just over 12 months ago. The small dining butternut, they have the occasional take- - has created Bellota Comes to You 2.0. room now gives way to Tatjana-Tukiainen’s home menu with a number of courses but A delivery service that has the chef and quirky, savvy wine list of small producers don’t offer a regular takeaway option. her team cooking meals that are delivered while Schelbert’s menu is contemporary, within a three-kilometre radius of the Bank familiar and suitable to travel for takeaway What they do supply is their savvy wine list Street venue or pick up yourself to take- and delivery. through Falco Bakery so you can go in there home. Her classic dishes feature on the and pick up a 2019 Scintilla Dayspring menu. The much-loved baked sausage Chicken liver parfait, pickles and sesame Chardonnay from Fleurieu Peninsula and rolls with spicy hot relish or charcuterie salt, or house-cured salmon gravlax with a 2017 Hochkirch Syrah from the Great selection with Nicky’s pickled vegetables capers, creme fraiche and pickled fennel Western region of Victoria with your bread. and spiced almonds are there alongside lead on to main courses of beef cheeks Visit main courses like crumbed pork rib eye with vegetables, red wine, gremolata and (400g) with Brussels sprouts, pancetta and mash or duck leg confit and braised white Melbourne is doing it tough, there’s garlic butter, or her popular pasta dishes beans. They’re open for coffee Tuesday to no doubt about that, but resilience and including orecchiette, oxtail ragu and Sundays, too. Mister Sandrino, 219-221 creativity will hopefully see our beloved Parmigiano Reggiano. The Prince Wine Riversdale Rd Hawthorn 3122; visit www. industry through to the other side of this Store, who own Bellota also provide wine pandemic. matches with the meals. The team behind Capitano - an ‘American- Top left: Food and wine from Mister Sandrino. Bellota, 181 Bank Street, South Melbourne; Italian’ venue in Carlton, also own and Below: Table of food from Capitano restaurant. visit operate Fitzroy’s Bar Liberty and Falco Bakery in Collingwood. This has stood Guy Grossi and his team at Grossi them well throughout the gruelling times Florentino in the CBD have developed we find ourselves in here in Melbourne. Grossi A Casa, with the intention of Falco - which has become one of the extending their Italian hospitality - as much more popular bakeries in the inner-north as they can - into your home. If you’re a since opening nine months ago - has a Grossi fan, you can enjoy their lasagne that home delivery service and pick up where would usually comfort you in the Cellar Bar you can buy their Country Loaf, popular in a pre-COVID world next to other pasta Oat Porridge loaf and the famous (or dishes like pumpkin tortellini with sage and infamous) Cheeseburger Pie a mashup of burnt butter or their Midnight Spaghetti Beef, Cheese, Sesame Seeds wrapped in sauce, made famous at their late-night a buttery pastry. bar, Arlechin. Capitano is keeping pizza lovers happy Their main courses for delivery include, with delivery three nights a week, takeaway Pollo Alla Diavola, chilli-roasted and brined on the others, as well as Capitano DIY chicken and their signature Abbacchio Alla where you can take home frozen pizzas Romana, Guy’s father’s favourite recipe of as back up for hungry families. The Double lamb shoulder slowly cooked with onions, ‘Roni - a mix of Pepperoni, scamorza, August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 41

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS IT’S the dream of many a restaurant to have Now when their customers order dishes and almonds. Open for lunch Thursday and its own kitchen garden, but in the case such as garden vegetables with barley Friday, dinner Wednesday to Saturday. Fino of the Summertown Aristologist, a tiny and beef tongue, or maize with greens and Vino, 82 Flinders Street, Adelaide; phone hyper-local Adelaide Hills diner, it became nettles, all the vegetable components are (08) 8232 7019. a commercial lifesaver during the South from the Aristologist’s own garden: “We’ve Australian COVID 19 lockdown. provided all our own vegetables for the past For acclaimed Thai chef Nu Suandokmai, year,” Tom adds. Open for lunch Friday ironically the pandemic couldn’t have Despite its limited size and rotating to Sunday, dinner Saturday and Sunday. arrived at a more convenient time, just as roster of finely talented young chefs, Summertown Aristologist, 1097 Greenhill he and his two partners were reassessing the Aristologist has become a must visit Road, Summertown; phone 0477 410 105. the way forward for their highly successful destination both as a haven for natural or restaurant Lantern by Nu. limited intervention wines, many of them It was similar thinking at Fino Seppeltsfield from the surrounding region, and for its and the recently opened Fino Vino in “The break enforced by COVID 19, whilst pared back menu featuring as much locally- Adelaide, where co-owner’s chef David extremely difficult for the entire hospitality grown or made produce as possible. Swain and front of house manager Sharon industry, has provided a great opportunity Romeo had opened their doors only a few to re-focus Lantern by Nu, reassess the Current chefs Tom Campbell (ex-Africola, months before the coronavirus struck. But it way we look after our customers, improve Igni in Geelong) and Ethan Eadie (ex Fino was Fino Seppeltsfield the first to go down, our service standards and provide an even Willunga, Africola) had watched as much having been visited by a group of American more satisfying Thai dining experience,” of the surrounding hills went up in smoke wine tourists who sparked a virus shutdown says Nu, who has now assumed sole early in the year in devastating bushfires, in the Barossa, the first in the state. ownership of the restaurant. and had no sooner hoped for a return to normal before the coronovirus pandemic “We were all ready for a big wedding, The menu has been condensed from what shut them down in March, along with all the fully stocked up, and there was a massive Suandokmai says was too extensive an State’s restaurants. shutdown with no warning,” David says. “It offering. It still includes favourites such as was really very scary and highly stressful.” pad Thai and slow-cooked beef cheek with It was, Tom says, a very emotional time green curry paste but now focuses even and like so many restaurants they had to City restaurant Fino Vino in particular more on authentic Thai street food cooking devise a rapid survival plan – and it lay didn’t have a menu that suited takeaway that will bring a delicious sense of nostalgia in the extensive kitchen garden already dishes, but Swain and Romeo looked at to older customers of the style of cooking established on the property of restaurant how big restaurant chains such as the Nu featured at his original restaurant, Nu’s, co-owner and Lucy Margaux winemaker Merrivale group were adapting and came in Gouger Street 20 years ago. Anton van Klopper. up with the idea of a weekend Fino at Home, providing menus to feed a small family over Originally able to seat 120, Lantern by Nu Luckily, it was the right time of year for a weekend. At its heart was a pie – duck, has a variety of seating options including an productive gardening and soon they were chicken, beef with shiraz, with house made outdoor courtyard and herb garden and can delivering 60 vegetable and bread boxes charcuterie and Italian pickles to start with still seat up to 83 diners. a week, their super crusty house-made Fino bread, followed by soup and ending sourdough loaves made from flour milled at with a simple dessert. New dishes include hor mok ta-lay the restaurant. Relaxed licence restrictions (steamed mixed seafood with red curry also enabled off-premise sales of wine from JobKeeper was no help for the newly- mousse, chilli and kaffir lime leaves); their wine store, all of it ordered online. engaged casual staff, so Fino Vino was tod mun khao pod (feather light corn able to take on some of the permanent fritters); gai luisan (chargrilled chicken with Seppeltsfield staff, who remain at the lemongrass and sawtooth coriander); and restaurant – with David now back at the pla dad deaw tod (an extraordinary dish to stoves, Sharon running the floor and a menu share of deep fried sun-dried market fish that harks back to their early days at Fino with a northern Thai green chilli dip, pork Willunga, with dishes such as crusty topped crackers and an array of fresh vegetables). braised rabbit with poached loin, rice and Open for lunch Friday, dinner Wednesday morcilla (perfectly paired with sherry); or to Sunday. Lantern by Nu, 10 Selby Street, pan-seared Brussels sprouts with lentils Adelaide; phone 0491 173 802. Top right: Pla Dad Deaw Tod from Lantern by Nu. Bottom left: Food from Aristologist restaurant. 42 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

winewords SOUTHERN CROSS CERTIFIED BEN COPEMAN, CO-FOUNDER OF SXC AND CEO M AT T B I R D, CO - F O U N D E R O F S XC A N D C H I E F C E R T I F I CAT I O N O F F I C E R KARYN FOSTER The term organic’ seems to be the new their vineyard and wine making facility to be Has SXC had to develop systems to cater sexy catchcry in produce, how long has certified against a specific organic standard. to the wine industry? the concept been around? When did If it plans to export certified organic wines, Australia jump on the band wagon? then it needs to be certified to the National SXC has developed systems to automate Standard. If it is a smaller, boutique winery many of the administrative processes required The most popular standard currently used with sales predominately through the Cellar by other certification bodies. For SXC certified in Australia is the National Standard for Door or direct to consumer, then the AS6000 operators, having ingredients, recipes and Organic & Biodynamic Produce or the Export is perfect for domestic sales. labels assessed is as simple as logging in Standard. The National Standard (NS) was to your portal and sending information. The first implemented in 1992. Who recognises Organic Certification? system then takes over and ensures SXC can All the major wine outlets; all the major assess these as soon as possible. The very first certified organic winery was the Settler’s Ridge Vineyard and Winery at supermarkets and all our major Export This is so important given the dynamic Cowaramup in the Margaret River region of partners. It is a Commonwealth Government nature of wine making – especially around WA, which coincidently, SXC now certify. supported Standard. It is not a regulated the bottling and labelling stages! And there standard but is enforced by the Department is no charge for these services – unlike other Organic management systems are not new. of Agriculture, Water & Environment. certification bodies. Organics is the original management system. 40 years ago, there were no chemicals, Consumers are also becoming much Ben? Your first wine experience? Favourite synthetic fertilisers or additives used in grape more aware of the importance of organic or wine? production or wine making. Its industrialised biodynamic certification now as well. farming that is the new system. Organics has Probably don’t want to know…I bought a been available forever. How has your industry grown with the ‘goon’ for $5.00 to take with me on a camping wine industry? trip while still at school. Got so drunk I had to Its been the last five to seven years that the pretend I got lost to sleep it off, otherwise I wine industry has really promoted organic or While there has been significant growth in would have been expelled. BD production. wine and vineyard certifications over the last few years, the reality is that wine certifications I have developed a somewhat more Certification has become big business, have fallen behind other sectors such as sophisticated taste since then…having lived both nationally and globally; SX Certified dairy and dairy products, broad acre beef in the Adelaide Hills, I am a great fan of the is based in Brisbane? Do you operate and horticultural production. The organic Barossa/Adelaide Hills shiraz and sauvignon elsewhere? industry has grown at a rate of about 13% blanc’s. compounded each year since 2012 and SXC is Brisbane based and while most of many sectors, specifically dairy & horticulture, Matt? Your first wine experience? Favourite our clients are based in some part of Australia, have grown in alignment. wine? we do have three clients in Fiji. Our clients range from just south of Darwin down to The demand for certified organic products My brother – who is 10 years my junior, Albany and Esperance in WA, across SA and outstrips supply by about 3 to 1 and has done first introduced me to wine and helped me Victoria to the eastern most tip of Victoria, right for at least the 8 years we’ve been involved in understand the powerful rich reds around the back up through all of NSW and Queensland the organic certification industry. Globally, the time. Until then I had really only drunk beer to Innisfail and everywhere through the centre. industry is growing at around 8% per annum and some whisky. This was around 2004, with the major markets being the US and and I was lucky enough to start my wine What does Southern Cross Certified (SXC) EU. China is looming large and will probably experience with a huge variety of amazing do? Why do companies and organisations replace the EU as our second major export cabernet sauvignon offerings from the need the services of SXC? destination within the next couple of years. Coonawarra and big beautiful Barossa shiraz. We are a specialist organic certification How important is certified organic wine Any SXC advice to wineries seeking body. In other words, we certify a product or become to domestic and international organic certification? process as being compliant with a specified markets? standard. Organic certification is not rocket science. Domestically, it represents a very small part Speak to your organic peers. Learn the We certify all sectors in the organic supply of overall wine sales. Internationally, wine challenges, and rewards, of the growing and chain, from farm gate through processors to sales represent about 13% of total organic winemaking sides. packers, wholesalers, retailers and we certify exports being sold predominately into the inputs for use in organic systems. We have EU (mainly the Scandinavian countries) and If you are considering certification, give us a clients in the dairy, grazing, grain, horticultural China. call and we can discuss the certification and and inputs sectors. compliance requirements. For example, if a winery wishes to sell Visit for further their wines as certified organic, they need information on organic certification. August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 43

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 44 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

2002 $2,000 SUBSCRIBE TO 2003 Not Released OUR COMPLETE 2004 $2,000 PACKAGE Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage which includes hard-copy 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 and digital versions plus full 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 on-line access to Winestate’s 1993 $90 1991 $850  web site and reviews. Available 1994 $120 1992 $270 only through online order, 1995 $110 1996 $160 1997 $85  Louis Roederer Chateau 1993 $240  1998 $160  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1994 $300  1999 $100  1995 $500 2000 $80  1990 $550 1990 $800 1996 $260 2001 $100 1993 $220 1991 $450 1997 $450 2002 $150  1994 $340 1993 $340 1998 $700 2003 $100  1995 $300 1994 $360 1999 $850 2004 $120 1996 $440 1995 $500  2000 $420 2005 $130 1997 $450 1996 $540 2001 $520 2006 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2002 $450 2008 $120 2000 $340 1998 $400 2003 $850 2009 $130 2002 $300 1999 $520 2004 $560 2010 $140 2004 $240 2000 $600 2005 $600 2011 $110 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2006 $750 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 GIFTSUBSCRIPTION 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 Tel: 08 8357 9277 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 45

69 TASTED 47 AWARDED SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Sweetness is one thing, balanced sweetness of acids and NOBLE Hollick The Nectar sometimes tannins is another. The best table wines with natural BOTRYTIS Coonawarra Botrytis fruit or added sugar have this balance. For our world class WINES Riesling 2019 fortifieds the proof is in the pudding (pun intended) and these (375ml) HHHH are a joy either as sippers or with high quality desserts. 7 TASTED Lifted citrus/lemon fruit fragrances. Good sugar, 7 AWARDED acid and tannin balance on the palate with zesty LATE HARVEST OTHER SWEET Deakin Estate A strong class with citrus flavours and WHITE STYLES Victoria Moscato consistent quality. botrytis notes. $25 7 TASTED 2019 HHH “These wines show 11 TASTED A sweet lightness of intensity and complexity Hickinbotham 3 AWARDED 8 AWARDED peach and nectarine with great sugar, acid Of Dromana fruit. Still very fresh. and tannin balance,” Mornington Generally, this is a Generally, a consistent More spatlese in style. noted one judge. Peninsula Noble borderline group about group. “Winemakers $10 Sauvignon Blanc half making the grade. who understood the Koonara Flowers De Bortoli Deen 2017 (375ml) HHHH “The better wines were style made wines for Lucy Mount De Bortoli Riverina Complex aromas; all balanced with fresh showing ‘serious’ Gambier Moscato Botrytis Semillon dried fruit and botrytis varietal fruit, whilst botrytis characters 2019 HHH 2017 HHHHH which follows through others were dull and flat which created extra A light pink with a rose A very complex, elegant onto the attractive, clean and just lacked that extra complexity,” said one garden of a nose and a and well-made wine with and complex palate. $23 touch of complexity. judge. “Afterthought fresh floral palate with lovely vibrancy of glazed wines don’t work!” earthy notes. $18.95 fruit/marmalade-like Allandale Hilltops K1 by Geoff Hardy Vineyard 28 aromas and flavours with Botrytis Viognier Autumn Harvest Truffle Hill Cane Geographe Moscato hints of figs and lemon- 2017 HHH Adelaide Hills Cut Pemberton WA Rosa 2019 HHH like notes. $17.45 Soft and creamy Riesling 2018 HHHH Riesling 2019 HHHH Inviting lifted floral with complex bottle A very inviting style. Floral apricot bouquet fragrances and a clean Saddler’s Creek development mixing Lovely honeyed intensity with butterscotch fruit driven palate with Riverina NSW with apricot botrytis to the nose with nuances. Palate has good acid/sugar balance. Botrytis Semillon characters. $40 pleasant apricot notes good fruit to acid $20 2015 HHHHH and full flavoured apricot balance with a citrus fig- Domaine Tariquet A beautifully aged wine Trentham Estate palate. 5+ $25 like complexity. $35 Dernières Grives with well developed Reserve Murray Côtes de Gascogne bottle age. Dried Darling Noble Happs Late Picked Happs Pale Gold Petit Manseng apricot-like bouquet; Taminga 2014 HHH Margaret River Margaret River 2017 HHH rich and creamy in Excellent combination Verdelho 2018 HHH Semillon Marsanne An attractive the mouth with a of lifted fruit, honeyed Lightly coloured with 2018 HHHH straightforward wine complexity of dried bottle age and citrusy floral citrus aromas A complex nose with with some pleasant stonefruit flavours. $36 notes. $18 and nicely integrated honeyed notes and botrytis characters. $NA flavours on the palate. seductively long, fresh Happs White Fuchsia Berton Vineyards APERA and beautifully balanced Margaret River Reserve Riverina (SHERRY) 3-5 $22 citrus peel/orange Verdelho Semillon Botrytis Semillon flavours. $22 Viognier 2017 HHH 2018 HHHH1/2 12 TASTED Gilbert Orange Late A lighter style, still A delightful melange 6 AWARDED Harvest Riesling Mr Riggs Sticky fresh with jasmine-like of glazed citrus, ripe 2013 HHH End McLaren Vale aromatics with similar pineapple and apple The judges noted that A soft lightweight Viognier 2018 HHHH flavours. $18 pie aromas. A creamy you get what you pay fruity style with nice A very well-made wine palate with complexity for here. There was one underlying botrytis on with tropical fruit aromas and length of apple pie outstanding wine while the nose and palate. $26 and some botrytis flavours. $20 the others were cheap evident that is echoed but not cheerful. “Most on the long creamy of those were stylistic, palate. $30 out of class or just showed poor selection of fruit and generally lacking apera or sherry lift,” said one judge. 46 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

varietal tasting 919 Wines Riverland FORTIFIED Trinity Hill Vintage Ulupna Royal Hayes Family Wines Pale Dry Apera Port Style Hawke’s Phoenix Goulburn Show Reserve NV HHHHH 12 TASTED Bay Touriga Valley Fortified Barossa Valley A lifted, light and simple 10 AWARDED Francesa Shiraz 2010 HHH Tawny NV HHHHH apera that has excellent 2016 HHH1/2 Ageing complexity of A wine with an colour, is crisp and nutty, A solid class with the A very dry style that still chocolate, spices and excellent tawny colour has a hint of nougat better wines showing has freshness and good berry fruits and drying and showing lovely and is all underlined the use of high-quality density of red berry and tannins. $75 complexity and age. by some excellent flor spirit and selecting spicy fruit with good Subtle aromas of characteristics. $35 appropriate varieties. spirit use. $120 NZ Canobolas Smith chocolate and spicy McWilliams There was some Happs Fortis Orange Cabernet red fruit and an elegant Specially Selected discussion over the Margaret River V.P. 2005 HHH chocolate/mocha palate. Sweet Australian Aussie, shiraz style Touriga Nacional Nicely aged commercial Great rancio. $120 Cream Apera vintage ports versus the Tinta Cao Souzao style that is all stalky, Carmine’s Tribute NV HHH1/2 traditional Portuguese NV (500ml) HHH cassis, capsicum and Rare (40-Year-Old) A soft and creamy style touriga styles. A great dry red fruit chocolate. $50 SA Solera Tawny with floral fruit showing nose and well integrated NV HHHHH some maderised Whistling Kite cassis and blackcurrant TAWNY PORT Aged liqueur style with complexity with a drying Classic Riverland palate. $26 mature spicy, honey/ finish. $6.70 Petit Manseng Trentham Estate 11 TASTED caramel bouquet and Golden Oak NV HHHHH Cellar Reserve 7 AWARDED a huge concentration Australian Cream Almost caramel in Murray Darling V.P. and intensity of creamy Apera NV HHH colour with a beautifully Shiraz 2016 HHH Again, the pricier wines toffee-like flavours Lovely floral muscat aged toasty/honeyed Vibrant spicy peppery performed better where spiced with cinnamon bouquet with good bouquet showing hints berry nose and producers treated the nuances. $150 length of tropical of citrus rind. The palate seamlessly balanced style seriously. “Tawny flavours on the smooth is luscious, creamy palate, has certain is a constructed style, palate. $5.70 and intense with oaky elegance. $20 not just one vintage or Golden Oak Sweet butterscotch flavours. $50 Mr Riggs The Elder one variety it is where Apera NV HHH McLaren Vale the blending skill of the An easy drinking sweet Gapsted Wines Fortified Shiraz winemaker’s craft is and tannic style with Limited Release 2016 HHH critical,” said one judge. attractive muscat fruit Alpine Valleys Spicy red berry nose characters. $5.70 Vintage Touriga and a simple, light and St Andrews Imperial 2018 HHHHH well-balanced tannic Reserve Australian The nose has an inviting palate. $30 Cream Apera lift of berries and spices Trinity Hill Vintage NV HHH with a complexity of Port Style Hawke’s Attractive muscat fruit juicy blackberry fruit Bay Touriga aromas and flavours. flavours and showing Nacional 2016 HHH Nice sweet entry to good spirit selection Attractive combination the palate with a drying with a nice drying tannic of blackberry, licorice, finish. $6 finish. $31 plum and chocolate McWilliams Royal characters. $120 NZ Reserve Australian Talijancich Wines Sweet Apera Swan Valley Pedro NV HHH Ximenez Liqueur Soft and subtle tropical 2007 HHHHH nose with a rich sweet Intense liqueur nose palate that has a creamy that is all aged honey, texture. $6.70 spices and caramel. The luscious creamy palate has a rich and inviting complexity of honey, blackberry and plum flavours. $250 JUDGES Eric Semmler Neil Jericho Russell Johnson Proprietor of 919 Wine Winemaker, Jericho CEO of Russell Johnson Company. Formerly Wines. Former Consulting, for wine winemaker for the Hardy general manager of & spirit research and Wine Company. Previously Taylors Wines. Former development. Formerly with Brown Brothers winemaker for Brown wine division technical and Auldstone Cellars. Brothers in North manager of Beringer Blass Has spent eight years as East Victoria. Regular Wine Estates. Eight years’ fortified winemaker for fortified wine judge. experience as production Hardys. Associate judge at manager with Seagram Rutherglen, McLaren Vale Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show and Riverland shows. judge in the brandy class. August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 47

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Hayes Family Wines 919 Wines Riverland Hayes Family Wines Hand Crafted by 919 Wines Riverland Very Old Rare Classic Tawny Old Grand Barossa Geoff Hardy South Classic Topaque Barossa Valley NV HHHH1/2 Valley Tawny Australia Muscat NV HHHHH Tawny NV HHHH1/2 Good tawny coloured NV HHH NV HHHHH A great style – warm Gracefully ageing tawny wine showing great Spicy fragrances with Attractive floral muscat lift and generous with with great depth and balance, length and hints of red fruits and an to the nose with hints of beautifully aged richness. Nice rancio flavour profile. Attractive attractive straightforward orange peel. The palate is butterscotch, toffee, bouquet and lovely spiciness, nice aged palate. $35 lusciously creamy, sweet fig and date blend of blend of flavours with an fruit, good oak influence and complex and showing aromas and flavours. attractive brandy spirit and nice rancio TOPAQUE & aged raisined fruit. “Luscious and yummy!” lift. $80 characters. $35 MUSCAT Beautifully aged style. $30 enthused one judge. $40 Golden Oak Saddler’s Creek De Bortoli Show Australian Tawny 9 TASTED Rutherglen VIC Riverina Liqueur NV HHH 6 AWARDED & Riverina NSW Muscat NV HHHH1/2 Aged malty caramel Muscat NV HHHHH Very complex and bouquet and a palate “Australian fortified Complex and beautifully aged Muscat that has complexity and wines are world concentrated dried fruit/ with excellent green age yet is still fruity. class,” said one judge. Christmas cake-like and yellow hues, an $5.70 “Stylistically we can aromas. Great palate – indication of quality, McWilliams Royal produce high quality rich and focussed with and brimming over with Reserve Australian fortifieds because we nutty caramel/toffee intense coffee/toffee and Tawny NV HHH have the climate, the flavours and excellent vanilla characters. $29.95 Easy drinking youthful knowledge and the spirit selection. $36 Rutherglen Estate style with spicy technology to make 919 Wines Riverland Riverina Classic chocolaty nose and a them. However, we Classic Muscat Muscat NV HHHH creamy palate. $6.70 need to be mindful that NV HHHHH Some intensity of ageing there is a succession of A delightful style with floral fruit fragrances knowledge for young rich raisined fruit cake-like and a full flavoured winemakers so this can bouquet lifted by some creamy muscat palate continue into the future.” spicy attractiveness and with lightly raisined fruit leading to a luscious flavours. $19.99 complexity of toffee, prunes and raisin flavours. $40 Manufactured in Australia It takes exceptional grapes to produce remarkable wine and those grapes need strong versatile and ecological trellis along with prudent management to allow for premium grapes to be produced, Ocloc trellis systems has helped achieved that. Ocloc trellis systems allow for individuals to specifically adapt grape growing structures, permitting the grower to control growth through multiple wire lifting positions or allowing for exposure to sunlight for even ripening, all serving to make Ocloc the most versatile, long term trellis system on the market. Above all, Ocloc trellis posts are produced 100% carbon offset and have the lowest carbon footprint for ecological and responsible grape production. Ocloc is the preferred system for some of Australia’s icon vineyards and wine labels. The importance of trellis is a crucial hidden component in the sustainable production of wine and underestimated by the wine buying public. Reliable and versatile espalier structures help create consistent grapes for optimal & sustainable production of wine. The versatility of the Ocloc trellis system has achieved many innovation and design awards, culminating in Oct 2019 with the industries Impact Award for services to viticulture. Winestate magazine service the industry at one end and Ocloc service the grower at the other but both serve as integral value partners to the world renowned and exceptional Australian wine industry. WWW.OCLOC.COM.AU Phone Nigel Catt: 0418 832 967 Email: [email protected] 48 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

499 TASTED 299 AWARDED WORLD’S GREATEST S Y R A H & S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E XV A great judging of this great variety, with the best numbers we have seen for a while. Here we see an amazing array of wines covering all price categories, all quality levels across all styles. If you can’t get excited by this you must be very hard to please. Read on! SHIRAZ Berton Vineyards MadFish Western UNDER $15 Metal Label SEA Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2019 HHHH 2017 HHH 13 TASTED Dark inky/chocolaty fruit Oaky peppery nose and 7 AWARDED fragrances. Dense mid- good flavour density palate richness with a for a lighter style with The best wines here dash of pepper and nice a fine tannin structure. were fresh with well- line of acid. $13 $13.99 integrated oak. The judges found that overall Dee Vine Estate SHIRAZ & Shingleback VBBAEULSYUTSE Kirrihill VBBAEULSYUTSE these were a reasonable Estate Range BLENDS Red Knot Regional quaffing group of wines Riverina Shiraz $15-$20 Classified Selection Clare offering great value for 2019 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz money. An oaky earthy nose 31 TASTED 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH with flavours like 10 AWARDED boysenberries and “A cracker of a wine at Inky aromas with a cola with some well- The judges were this price,” enthused slight barnyard-like note. integrated tannins. disappointed with this $7.99 group of wines finding too many sweet and Zilzie Estate SEA sour wines with, in one judge. Lovely Good volume of toasty Shiraz 2019 HHH1/2 some cases, early concentration of licorice/ chocolaty flavours with Plums and spices lift ageing. “However, the cherry-like shiraz fruit some mature tannins. off the nose and an oak best wines here had rich with oak providing $19 driven palate that has fruit and well integrated lift and framework to good bright red fruit tannins,” concluded one accentuate the varietal Archer’s Point underneath. $11 judge. character. $19 Coonawarra Shiraz 2019 HHHH McPherson VBBAEULSYUTSE MWC Victoria Meaty gamey nose with Family Shiraz Mourvedre earthy elements and a Vineyards 2018 HHHH dark briary fruit palate Andrew McPherson Deep red wine with layered with spices South Eastern a spicy complexity and earthy characters. Australia Shiraz of plum fruit on the $19.99 nose that is echoed 2019 HHH1/2 on the palate with Wines By Geoff Sweet chocolaty the mourvedre giving Hardy Barbara Hardy aromas with a structure. $18.99 McLaren Vale Shiraz perfumed lift. Well 2018 HHHH integrated floral berry Nose is an alluring flavours and velvety Hereford complexity of dark Heathcote VBBAEULSYUTSE fruits, anise and cedar. tannins. $14.99 Shiraz Great palate texture with lovely rich fruit/oak Dee Vine Estate Dee Vine Estate 2019 HHHH flavours. $15 Nericon South The Drover Riverina East Australia VBBAEULSYUTSE Shiraz 2019 HHH Bright jubey red fruit Shiraz 2018 Light strawberry aromas fragrances with more of and upfront bright fresh the same on the vibrant, HHHH1/2 flavours with lingering well balanced, light A bright crimson wine tannins. $5.99 with fresh lifted aromas of bodied palate. $15 raspberries and rhubarb. Light bodied red fruit palate with lingering flavours and a good tannin structure. $12.99 August 2020 W I N E S TAT E 49

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XV Kurtz Family Wines By Geoff Don’t Tell Gary Haselgrove ‘First Blewitt Springs Vineyards Seven Hardy Pertaringa Victoria Shiraz Cut’ McLaren Vale Wine Co Single Sleepers Barossa Undercover McLaren 2018 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2018 HHH Vineyard McLaren Valley Shiraz Vale Shiraz Smells like crushed Chocolate and cherries Vale Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 2017 HHHH blackberries with jubey on the nose and upfront 2017 HHHHH Good red cherry varietal A well-made wine with fruit flavours and a fruit on the warming Attractive deep red fruit characters here lovely blue fruit varietal savoury element on the palate. $23 old-school style of shiraz laced with toasty/vanillin characters, peppery mid palate. $23.99 with purple hues and oak and nice tannin notes and nicely Brothers In Arms Patritti Merchant rich mouthfilling plum ripeness. $18 underpinned by well No. 6 Langhorne McLaren Vale Shiraz flavours complemented handled oak. $22 Creek Shiraz 2018 HHH by the sweet oak. Has Tail Spin Langhorne Glenlofty Go Cabernet Lifted cherry berry loads of texture and Creek Shiraz Pyrenees Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 bouquet with cherries complexity. $28 2019 HHH 2017 HHHH Minty fruit nose with and chocolate filling the Leconfield McLaren Oak driven style but Nicely aged wine with chocolaty edge and mouth. Good oak use. $24 Vale Shiraz has good rich plum fruit aromas of blackberries dense purple fruit 2018 HHHHH underneath and upfront and rose petals and flavours on a rich well- Gomersal Premium Intense purple wine tannins. $15 lovely inky core of black structured palate. $22 Barossa Valley with a meaty/aniseed fruit flavours with herbal Tellurian Redline Shiraz 2017 HHH nose showing some Shingleback Davey notes. $24 Heathcote Shiraz More of a savoury style butterscotch-like Brothers McLaren Riddoch Coonawarra 2019 HHH of shiraz with dark characters. The palate Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 Sweet cassis bouquet brooding fruit and bacon- is powerful and rich 2018 HHH Lovely varietal fruit with hints of violets. Soft like notes. $20 with complex dark fruit Raspberry jam nose with reminiscent of in the mouth with spicy flavours and persistent peppery notes and good Maraschino cherries earthy flavours. $23 Arakoon Sellicks tannins. $26 volume of spicy fruit with good use of oak Byrne Double Pass Beach McLaren Vale flavours. $17 and well-matched South Australia Shiraz 2017 HHH tannins. $20 Shiraz 2018 HHH Earthy blue fruit Shingleback Taylors Special An oak driven shiraz with fragrances with good Haycutters McLaren Release Clare Valley persistent primary fruit fruit flavours and a Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 aromas and flavours. gravel-like texture. $22 2018 HHH Deep red wine with $20 Good concentration of purple hues. Smells of Cat Amongst the SHIRAZ & ripe red berry fruit with raspberry jam with dark Pigeons Barossa BLENDS spicy nuances and a berry flavours on the Shiraz 2018 HHH $25-$30 dash of pepper. $18 soft palate. $20 Sweet chocolate/cherry Thorn-Clarke nose with toasty oak and 70 TASTED SHIRAZ & Sandpiper Barossa fruit sharing the limelight 41 AWARDED BLENDS Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 on the palate. $21 $20-$25 An attractive Richard Hamilton A mixed result with straightforward medium ‘Little Road’ some excellent wines 41 TASTED bodied wine with earthy McLaren Vale Shiraz but there were also 16 AWARDED spicy briary fruit and a 2018 HHH problems with others. meaty nuance. $20 Nice commercial “The best wines “Generally, a group Knappstein Clare style with an inky fruit had a brightness and of thin and hollow Valley Shiraz bouquet and good focus freshness with good flavoured wines,” was 2018 HHH1/2 of fruit flavours. $22 aromatics,” said one one judge’s comments. Fleshy licorice/plum judge. “While others “Those that did have nose with an element of were dull or forward flavour came to the fore greenness. Great core and showed early and were rewarded.” of varietal fruit on the development.” palate. $22 JUDGES - DAY 1 John McGovern Shane Harris Regional sales manager Winemaker for Wines by Matthew Pick at A.P. John Coopers. In Geoff Hardy including, K1 Winemaker for the wine industry since and Handcrafted by Geoff Seppeltsfield. Previously 1996 in oak sales. Has Hardy Wines. Has also winemaker for Yalumba, been in Spain, France completed vintages in Oxford Landing brand, and US. Has completed Queensland and Victoria. Leo Buring, Yaldara and AWAC, and judged at Completed the AWRI Leasingham with two Barossa wine show and advanced sensory course vintages in Austria. Riverland wine shows. and has associate judged at Judge at the Adelaide McLaren Vale Wine Show. Hills and Griffith wine shows. Associate at Barossa and Clare. 50 W I N E S TAT E August 2020

Winestate Magazine August 2020

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