Wine & Spirit Insider May June 2017

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDMay/June 2017 Issue 153In this issue... THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THENew Releases & LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.Best Value Buys Under $20 Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411One-of-a-kind experiences await First Johnnie Walker House at seaFirst Penfolds Wine Vault at sea Immerse in the rich heritage of luxury Scotch whiskyEnjoy rare wines & fine vintages

253 TASTED142 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA pleasure to see the latest offerings from the winemakers. OTHER WHITE Byrne VineyardsThat’s not to say that we are not tough on them. They need to VARIETALS & Sidney Wilcox Southearn our applause, but then we give them great kudos for their BLENDS Australia White Fieldefforts and recommend their wines to you. In this judging we Blend 2016 HHHliked the cabernets, sauvignon blancs and not surprisingly shiraz, 13 TASTED Warm and slightlywhich continues to deliver the sunshine in a bottle that Australia 5 AWARDED phenolic with soft peach-produces. like fruit layered with Although there were melon characters. $25SPARKLING Schild Estate some nice quaffers Barossa Valley here most of the wines Jericho Wines7 TASTED Sparkling Shiraz were totally lacking any Adelaide Hills4 AWARDED 2015 HHH varietal character. Fiano 2016 HHH Very oaky style that has Cheesy mandarinA few nice drinks in this blue fruit fragrances Alex Russell Wines aromatic complexitymixed group of both dry and flavours with good Alejandro Riverland with similar charactersand sweet styles. structure and texture. $25 Fiano 2016 HHH on the flavoursome Steels Gate Single Light simple wine with palate. $25Colli Euganei Vineyard Yarra Valley delicate green appleFior d’Arancio Blanc de Blanc characters on nose and SAUVIGNONDOCG Veneto 2013 HHH palate and herbal notes. BLANC &Spumante Pleasant bready bouquet $20 BLENDS2015 HHHH and broad brioche-likeNice example of flavours with citrussy Sirromet Wines 17 TASTEDspumante with its fresh acidity. $39.95 Vineyard Selection 11 AWARDEDand lively aromatic Granite Beltnose and sweet Turkish Verdelho 2016 HHH Consistent groupDelight-like flavours with Lime and citrus blossom showing obvioussome decent mousse. on the nose. Soft varietal definition$16 and generous in the ranging from the green mouth with lifted citrus and herbaceous to Fantini Farnese flavours. $21 the riper tropical fruit Gran Cuvee Italy spectrum. A couple also Sparkling Rosé La Bise The Kiss had added complexity NV HHH Adelaide Hills from use of oak. Bright pink and smelling Arneis 2016 HHH of raspberries with a Clean, fresh and well sweet, bright, clean and made. Hints of savoury simple palate. $20 Vegemite characters with a lemony element. $22JUDGES - DAY 1 Briony Hoare Rob Ruediger Owner/winemaker Orchard Wine Estates. Sam Watkins Beach Road Wines. Wine consultant. Winemaker for Fleurieu Previously winemaker Formerly senior Vintners, Boars Rock Wines at Rosemount, production winemaker and Adelaide Winemakers. Lindemans, Seppelt at Accolade Wines Formerly winemaker at and other Treasury (Hardy Wine Company) Wynns, Philip Shaw and wineries. Has judged at involving all varieties and Seppeltsfield wineries. the Alternative Varieties styles. Wine judge at Has vintaged in Portugal wine show plus Brisbane wine show. and Napa Valley. Associate Barossa & McLaren judge at the Royal Adelaide Vale wine shows. and Langhorne Creek wine shows.120 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSaint Clair Pioneer Eradus Awatere CHARDONNAYBlock 1 Foundation Valley MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc 21 TASTEDSauvignon Blanc 2015 HHH 6 AWARDED2016 HHHH Long textured wine Disappointing! “LotsComplex, punchy and that’s pungent and of young boringlifted style with a weedy/ herbaceous with chardonnays here lackingnettley nose and upfront restrained tropical fruit; fruit and interest,” notedsweetness of passionfruit some flinty notes. one judge. “No greatand pineapple-like $18.99 faults but not muchflavours. $26.90 to write home about PINOT GRIS/ either!”Sidewood Mappinga GRIGIOAdelaide Hills Fumé Deep Woods EstateBlanc 2015 HHH1/2 13 TASTED Estate MargaretSmells of buttered 3 AWARDED River Chardonnaypopcorn and toasted 2016 HHHHalmonds. Lovely oaky Good wines were Complexity of whitecomplexity on the long, few and far between peach and cashew nutsoft and supple palate. $35 here with too many aromas with a soft, lacking freshness and creamy and flavoursomeAdelaide Cantina Abbatiello flavours. “Sugar does Mad Bastard Classic palate that has textureWinemakers Vagabondo Adelaide not replace fruit flavour,” Clare Riesling and complexity. $20Landcross Adelaide Hills Sauvignon commented one judge. 2016 HHHH One Road EdenSauvignon Blanc Blanc 2016 HHH Subtle perfumed lime Valley & Padthaway2016 HHH Well-made wine with Saint Clair Premium florals and a tight and ChardonnayTropical bouquet with a pungent passionfruit Marlborough Pinot evenly textured, tight, 2016 HHHa distinct gooseberry nose and good depth of Gris 2016 HHH palate with elegant Honest varietal with ripecharacter. Fresh and bright tropical flavours. Delicate aromas of pears green mandarin-like peach-like fruit, somesimple tropical flavours. $18 and white blossom with flavours. $25 grippy oak phenolics and$14.90 Saint Clair Pioneer a palate made of Nashi tight acid line. $4.99Sabella Vineyards Block 20 Cash pears and red apples. SEMILLON & Nepenthe AltitudeMother & Daughter Block Marlborough $21.50 BLENDS Adelaide HillsMcLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc ChardonnaySauvignon Blanc 2016 HHH Villa Maria 4 TASTED 2016 HHH2016 HHH A lifted pyrazine-like Cellar Selection 2 AWARDED Subtle and elegantTropical fruit-driven style varietal character; a mix Marlborough Pinot oak/fruit balance andwith a pungent lift and of passionfruit, green Gris 2016 HHH A couple of youthful complexity. Creamysome fine phenolic capsicum and peaches. Subdued aromas with semillons good for early palate with a tight acidcharacters. $17.99 $26.90 an oily texture. Palate drinking. spine. $20Saint Clair Saint Clair Pioneer tastes of pears withJames Sinclair Block 18 Snap cheesy notes. $25 GlenholmeMarlborough Block Marlborough Vineyards Blesing’sSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Lake Chalice Garden Southern2016 HHH 2016 HHH Wines The Raptor Flinders RangesLong balanced wine Pleasant wine. Lifted Marlborough Pinot Semillon 2016 HHHwith punchy tropical floral/passionfruit Gris 2016 HHH A nose of citrus and cutfruit and a bit of gunflint- fragrances and decent Clean and fresh with grass with a rich brightlike character adding flavours on the well- lifted floral fragrances and creamy lemon curd-interest. $24.50 balanced palate. $26.90 and sweet lemon like palate. $18Jericho Wines Lake Chalice sherbet flavours.Adelaide Hills Fumé Wines The Raptor $26.99 NZ Saddler’s CreekBlanc 2016 HHH Marlborough Wines Ryan’sComplex oaky lift to the Sauvignon Blanc RIESLING Reserve Huntercreamy honeyed nose 2016 HHH Semillon 2016 HHHand upfront flavoursome Lightly varietal with 4 TASTED Complex flinty/lemonfumé style palate. $25 gentle passionfruit 1 AWARDED bouquet and crisp and aromas and fresh clean lively lemon sherbet-like and bright fruit-driven Only one nice example flavours. $32 palate. $26.99 NZ of riesling here. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 121

NEW RELEASESSaddler’s Creek Deep Woods Estate Alex Russell Wines Hand Crafted Lake Chalice WinesWines Reserve Harmony Margaret Alejandro Murray by Geoff Hardy Marlborough PinotHunter Chardonnay River Rosé Darling Saperavi Limestone Coast Noir 2016 HHH2016 HHH 2016 HHH 2016 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Simple, clean and veryClean, fresh and A well-made, drier style, Dense purple wine with Lagrein 2015 HHH youthful with fleshyappealing wine with rosé with blackcurrant huge plum/violet nose A big inky wine with and very primary fruitbright white peach fruit characters mixing with and a rich, brooding and sweet generous characters and good useand good supporting strawberries and cream. distinctively savoury/ characters of cassis of oak. $20.99 NZoak. $36 $15 chocolaty palate. $24 fruit, coffee beans and Whistling Kite crushed ants! $30 GRENACHE &Karrawatta Anth’s La Bise The Kiss Vineyards BLENDSGarden Adelaide Adelaide Hills Biodynamic Whistling KiteHills Chardonnay Rosé 2016 HHH Wine Riverland Vineyards 6 TASTED2016 HHH This wine has savoury Montepulciano Biodynamic Wine 4 AWARDEDA bright, fresh and lively meaty elements 2015 HHH1/2 Riverland Petitchardonnay with lovely mingling with musk “Lovely!” said a Verdot 2015 HHH A good flight of well-light and lifted varietal stick and strawberry-like judge. Has honest ripe Pretty florals to the plumy made wines. “Watchfruit characters. $52 fruit. $22 mulberry fruit layered nose which is echoed on the oak - let the fruit with savoury elements. the palate with its supple shine,” advised one ofBay of Fires Lake Chalice Has great texture and tannins. $38 the panel.Tasmania Wines The Raptor balance. $38Chardonnay Marlborough Rosé Alex Russell Wines PINOT NOIR Shingleback Red2015 HHH 2016 HHH Alejandro Riverland Knot McLaren ValeA huge, complex and A lighter dry style of Graciano 2016 HHH 8 TASTED Grenache Shirazbuttery old style of wine with fresh crisp Very youthful, fresh and 3 AWARDED Mourvedrechardonnay with bright cassis-like lifted fruit lifted with blueberry and 2016 HHHHfruit and honeyed with hints of herbs. mulberry fruit. Has some “Highlight shows the A very youthful winehints. $45 $26.99 NZ spiciness and a firm way,” said one judge. with a lollipop nose finish. $24 “Freshness is better showing obviousROSÉ OTHER RED Alex Russell Wines than being overdone.” grenache influence. The VARIETALS & Alejandro Riverland rustic earthy palate has11 TASTED BLENDS Carmenère Bay of Fires vibrant fleshy sweet4 AWARDED 2016 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir fruit. $14.95 17 TASTED Spicy and savoury 2015 HHHHHA mixed group with the 9 AWARDED on the nose; elegant “Beautiful fruit/oakbetter wines showing and interesting on the handling here,” enthusedfreshness and some Lots of variety! Some chocolaty/dark fruit one judge. The savourystructure, getting away varieties here are better palate. $24 cherry nose has somefrom the confectionery blenders than made as Shingleback Kitchen gamey notes. The long,sweet rosés of the past. straight varietal wines Garden McLaren textured palate has an but there are some Vale Mataro abundance of meaty/Rusty Mutt Sun other options worth 2016 HHH licorice flavours. $45Flare McLaren Vale considering. Distinctive savouryRosé 2016 HHH1/2 earthy/rustic aromas and Kina Beach VineyardPretty fluorescent pink Sussex Squire The flavours, firm tannins Nelson NZ Pinotwine that’s fresh and Raging Bull Clare and peppery notes. $25 Noir 2015 HHH1/2bright with strawberry Valley Malbec 919 Wines Reserve A wine with style andand cream aromas and 2015 HHHH Riverland Touriga complexity. Has a blackflavours. Has length and Ripe jammy raspberry Nacional 2016 HHH olive and red cherrya soft finish. $22 and blackberry aromas A baby! Appealing and bouquet and stalky with a savoury and tight aromatic bouquet with a peppery cherry fruit palate that has attractive plush jubey red fruit and palate. $29 upfront jubey fruit licorice palate. $42 flavours. $30JUDGES - DAY 2 James Godfrey Dan Pritchard Chief fortified winemaker Master of Oenology. Ian McKenzie for Treasury Wines Sparkling winemaker Wine consultant. (formerly Fosters Wine for Treasury Wines National wine show Group). Senior wine Group. Also involved judge and former co- show judge on the with Limestone Coast chief winemaker for Australian National wine wines, Jameson’s Run Southcorp, Seppelt and shows. Member of the and Robertson’s Well. Berri Estates. Over 40 Australian Wine Export Associate judge at the years’ experience in judging panel regulating Inland wine show. the wine industry with the quality of wines sent more than 30 years overseas. participation in the wine show judging circuit.122 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingHaselgrove Wines Hemera Estate TEMPRANILLO Shingleback El DURIFSwitch McLaren Vale Estate Barossa & BLENDS Capitan McLarenG.S.M. 2015 HHHH Valley G.S.M. Vale Tempranillo 4 TASTEDA big, generous and full- 2015 HHH 9 TASTED 2016 HHH 2 AWARDEDbodied blend that is rich Oak dominating the 4 AWARDED Clean, fresh and fruitywith plums, cherries and vibrant red licorice wine with pleasant A small group offeringspices and has lovely soft fruit with grenache A solid group with some savoury elements and a couple of well made,chocolaty elements. $40 savouriness and nice vibrant wines with some chocolaty notes. rich, wines withoutMillbrook Winery spiciness. $35 ripe savoury tannins. $25 showing excess alcohol.Regional GeographeGrenache Shiraz MERLOT & Millbrook Winery SANGIOVESE & 919 Wines ReserveMourvedre BLENDS Regional Geographe BLENDS Riverland Durif2016 HHH1/2 Tempranillo 2014 HHHHA well-made brooding 6 TASTED 2016 HHH1/2 6 TASTED Loads of oak here butyouthful wine that’s all 2 AWARDED A pretty lifted floral/ 2 AWARDED suits the style. Licorice/cherries, spices and spicy/licorice bouquet. plum nose and a verypepper. It just needs more These two wines offered The nicely structured “A long way to go with ripe generous palate buttime in the cellar. $22 easy soft drinking. palate has plenty of this variety,” commented not over-the-top. Some bright fruit and savoury one judge. great tannins. $45 Pure Vision Organic tannins. $22 South Australia Eldredge JD Clare Tenafeate Creek One Merlot 2016 HHH Tenafeate Creek One Valley Sangiovese Tree Hill Durif Well-made bright, simple Tree Hill Tempranillo 2015 HHH 2015 HHH commercial style of 2016 HHH1/2 Aged savoury nose with Big, powerful and plums, chocolate and Deep purple wine with a full-bodied chocolaty typically robust with spices with ripe tannins. intense black jubey fruit palate layered with firm sweet fruit cake $15 fragrances which follow but supple tannins. $25 characters, massive through to the soft tannins and high GMH Family balanced palate. $26 Buttermans Track alcohol. $28 Selection Red Blend Yarra Valley South Australia Doc Adams Sangiovese Merlot Cabernet South Australia 2015 HHH Sauvignon Shiraz Tempranillo Dark tarry cherry aromas 2015 HHH 2015 HHH1/2 and a firm savoury/ Green capsicums and Oaky, savoury and mulberry fruit palate blueberries on both the tannic wine that is with chewy tannin lifted nose and the soft an interesting mix of support. $32 rounded palate. $20 cranberry and roast meat characters. Has great texture. $20Orange | Mudgee | Hunter Valley Gartelmann Shiraz from NSW’s premier regions www.gartelmann.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 123

NEW RELEASESCABERNET Eldredge RL Clare CABERNETBLENDS Valley Cabernet SAUVIGNON Malbec 2014 HHHH9 TASTED A thick, rich and savoury 24 TASTED5 AWARDED nose with a lift of minty 19 AWARDED notes. The big tannicA group of blends with palate has fresh and Consistent group ofcabernet the dominant powerful cassis flavour cabernets here withvariety but in a “lovely intensity. 5+ $28 varietal fruit a feature.way”, according to the “A most enjoyable groupjudges. Karrawatta to taste,” enthused one Spartacus judge. “All offer medium Langhorne Creek to long term cellaring Cabernet Sauvignon possibilities.” Malbec Shiraz 2014 HHHH Rich full-flavoured wine with very attractive cabernet aromas. Palate is dense and tasty with slightly sweet/pungent fruit flavours. 5+ $92 GMH Meritage Majella Coonawarra Reillys Dry Land South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec Excellent varietal 2014 HHHH1/2 2015 HHH nose; a complex mix Very varietal. Dark Powerful black fruit/herbal of cassis fruit, spices, fruit, cassis and mint aromas. Powerfully tannic mint and formic acid. lifts off the nose. A big palate with high level of Generous cassis fruit generous tannic palate acid. Needs time. palate - oak still a tad with excellent fruit/oak aggressive. Needs balance, slightly sharp 3-5 $20 time. 5+ $35 flavours but “That’s Majella The Pertaringa Rifle cabernet!” 5+ Malleea by Majella $38 Coonawarra & Hunt AdelaideSlain Giant First Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Brash VineyardRelease Full Bodied Shiraz 2013 HHHDry Red 2015 & Great colour, generous 2015 HHHH1/2 Single Vineyard smoky/minty nose and “A big complex tannic Margaret River2016 Clare Valley oak dominated palate beast,” declared one Cabernet SauvignonLanghorne Creek with chewy tannins. Mad Bastard Clare Cabernet Sauvignon judge. “But too young.” 2015 HHHHBarossa Valley 3-5 $80 Has a powerful cassis A big full bodied wineCabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHHH Excellent cassis fruit nose and masses of - bit heavy handedPetit Verdot Tannat cabernet varietal fruit with the oak but hasMV HHHHH varietal bouquet with lovely elements of dark flavours. 5+ $40 good spicy varietal fruit“Yummy,” was a underneath and nice levelcomment from the chocolate. The luscious palate is rich with of tannins. 5+ $40panel. Very attractive darkcassis fruit aromas and beautiful fruit and layered with strong tannins anda pretty palate that has acid. 5+ $50elegance and complexitywith good tannin/oakbalance. 5+ $28124 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Reillys Clare Valley Glenholme Geoff Merrill Slain Giant First Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyards Blesing’s Reserve Coonawarra Release Medium 2014 HHH1/2 Garden Southern McLaren Vale Bodied Dry Red 2015 Attractive lifted varietal Flinders Ranges Cabernet Sauvignon & 2016 Barossa aromas and a big Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Valley Adelaide Hills complex tannic palate 2015 HHH Big and tannic with McLaren Vale Shiraz with a generosity of A cooler climate style minty cola fruit and Barbera Malbec fruit showing through. with a big oaky influence still showing high level MV HHH and lingering fruit of acidity. Drink soon! Spicy sour cherry 3-5 $25 sweetness. 1-2 $46.50 bouquet and strong Shaw Family $22 SHIRAZ balanced palate with Vintners Monster BLENDS good tannin structure Pitch McLaren Vale Artiste Eden Valley and nice oak. 5+ Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 6 TASTED $28 2016 HHH 2015 HHH 4 AWARDED A very youthful, bright, A big delicious wine Saddler’s Creek lifted, perfumed varietal. with lovely varietal “Typically these blends Wines Saddler’s Generous amount of fruit fruit characters and are lighter and spicier Langhorne Creek and tannins. 3-5 powerful chewy than straight shiraz Shiraz Viognier $17 tannins. 3-5 $24 wines,” said one judge. 2015 HHH “Getting the balance A meaty style of shiraz The Pond SEA Doc Adams Black right is critical.” with peppery fragrances Cabernet Sauvignon Label South and a soft, rich and 2015 HHH Australia Cabernet generous palate. $36Haselgrove Wines Nose has dark chocolate SauvignonProtector McLaren 2015 HHHVale Cabernet mint complexity with Lifted spearmint Geoff Merrill Bush a long rich brooding characters on the nose Vine McLaren ValeSauvignon savoury palate. 1-2 and good length and Shiraz Grenache2015 HHHH depth of fruit on the Mourvedre“A varietal classic; a big $6.99 palate. $30 2012 HHH Slightly porty nose andtannic baby,” according Shaw Family big jammy flavours onto one judge. Generous a generous mid-palate.vibrancy of minty fruit Vintners Steeple Jack South Australia Hemera Estate 1-2 $24.50with dark chocolaty Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Barossacharacters. 5+ $40 2015 HHH Valley Cabernet Cassis nose with a touch Sauvignon of cola. Developing, 2015 HHH SHIRAZ medium-bodied, cassis Slightly inky herbal 2016/2015 palate. 1-2 $10 aromas with a well- UNDER $30 balanced sweet/sour fruit palate. Good tannin 24 TASTED structure. 3-5 $40 15 AWARDED K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Typically shiraz is one 2015 HHH variety which is better Some red fruit on the as a stand-alone variety. nose and powerfully One judge commented tannic palate with that a number needed slightly aged fruit Millbrook Winery decanting as a result Estate Perth Hills of screw cap reducing flavours. 3-5 $45 Shiraz Viognier the level of oxygen available. “Some Highland Heritage 2014 HHHH1/2 lighter wines were Estate The Patrono A big wine with a beautifully balanced and Series Orange powerfully meaty/ understated.” Cabernet Sauvignon chocolate nose and a 2015 HHH dash of spice. The thick, Fragrances of herbs, full-flavoured, palate hasParinga South mint and cassis fruit. a seamless balance ofAustralia Cabernet A dense palate rich fruit and oak with niceSauvignon with complex flavours. tight tannins. 5+2014 HHH1/2 $35Developed aromas of 3-5 $55cola, dark fruits and 3 Rings Barossasweet spices. Nice Valley Cabernetvarietal leafy lift to the Sauvignondelicious palate. 2015 HHH Minty dark fruit aromas 3-5 $11.99 and a thick savoury mouth-watering palate that lingers on. 3-5 $14.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 125

NEW RELEASES Robinvale NW McGuigan The SHIRAZ Victoria Shiraz Shortlist Adelaide 2016/2015 2016 HHHH Hills Shiraz $30+ A spicy ‘baby’ that has 2015 HHHH a ripe and slightly porty Beautiful dark varietal 20 TASTED nose with a big tannic fruit characters on the 17 AWARDED palate full of tarry/licorice nose with some very Strong consistent flavours with a soft good oak. Powerful class of excellent finish. 3-5 $25 fruit/oak palate has big flavoursome wines. hit of chewy tannins. “Most of these were big fruit and big oak 3-5 $29 styles,” said one judge. However at this price Mt Jagged Wines point it is not surprising Tangled Rope that winemakers are Southern Fleurieu making these styles Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 giving consumers their Excellent cool climate monies worth. style. Peppery green fruit bouquet and Hemera Estate big, balanced, juicy Estate Barossa palate with oak/fruit Shiraz 2015 HHHHH complexity. $20 A pretty wine that has powerful ripe shirazClaymore Wines Eldredge Blue Chip McPherson Wines aromas leading to a rich Curious SEA Shiraz full-flavoured sweet fruitDark Side Of The Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 HHH palate with a strongMoon Clare Valley 2015 HHHH1/2 chewy tannin structureShiraz 2015 HHHHH A big tannic powerhouse Young closed nose; and some well-handled hints of red fruit. Spicy oak. 5+ $40Dark black cherry fruit of a wine with sweet/ chocolaty palate. A baby. Pertaringa Over Thebouquet balanced by spicy characters adding Top McLaren Valespicy oak. Generous complexity to the nose Needs time. 3-5 Shiraz 2015 HHHHH $13.99 Deep red wine withwell-structured and a well-balanced purple highlights.palate with loads of palate with great length Subtle spiciness to theshiraz fruit flavours, and depth of fruit/oak One Road South nose and deep dark Schild Estate Australia & brooding cherry-likeexcellent use of oak flavours. 5+ $28 Barossa Valley Heathcote Shiraz flavours with oak inand a powerful tannin Shiraz 2015 HHHH seamless balance withstructure. 5+ $25 Jubey fruit style; slight 2015 HHH the fruit on a well- greenness. Berry A big wine with a spicy balanced palate. freshness on the nose peppery nose and and a soft, sweet and simple, balanced red 5+ $40 seamlessly balanced fruit palate. 1-2 palate. Good oak $6.99 influence. $22 Sidewood Stable Hill Thorn-Clarke Wines Mustang Adelaide Shotfire Barossa Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH Big wine; still a baby Oak dominates the dark and needs more time. spicy fruit aromas and Complex bouquet of there is plenty more dark fruits and toasty oak on the soft palate. oak with generous 3-5 $15 oak-driven intense fruit Byrne Vineyards palate. 5+ $27 Sidney Wilcox Vine-Dried South Sussex Squire Australia Shiraz Thomas Block 2015 HHH Single Vineyard Excellent bright jubey Clare Valley Shiraz red fruit, creamy oak and Garners Leon’s 2015 HHHH strong, well-structured, Strathbogie Ranges Black cherry bouquet withSabella Vineyards Shiraz 2015 HHHH minty/eucalypt edge. The tannins. 3-5 $25 medium weight palateMcLaren Vale Shiraz Young lifted nose; is young and jubey with Semprevino2015 HHHH1/2 aromas of fruit and a good tannin structure. McLaren Vale ShirazA very good wine with violets. Very soft, 2015 HHHa generous complexity light-bodied and well- 3-5 $28 Generous jammy fruitof dark fruit aromas and balanced palate. Very aromas and warm, spicyflavours, some very flavoursome and easy and rounded palate.powerful oak and drying drinking. 3-5 $28 Nice porty fruit flavours.tannins. The soft up-frontpalate has plenty of 3-5 $28length. 3-5 $24.99126 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingK1 by Geoff Hardy 919 Wines RiverlandAdelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2016 HHHH2015 HHHHH Oak dominates the noseA lovely big, rich and but it has a perfumeddelicious shiraz that has floral lift. Attractive juicya warm jammy cherry jubey fruit flavours, tightnose and a long and acid and good tanninwell-balanced palate structure. 5+ $45with an abundance offruit, oak and tannins. Brash Vineyard Single Vineyard 5+ $45 Margaret River Shiraz 2015 HHHH Big confectionery bouquet with lots of oak and a violet-like lift. Layers of complexity to the thick palate. Good weight of fruit. 5+ $35 Haselgrove Wines Catkin McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH A huge wine with a mix of dark fruit aromas with chocolaty notes. Palate has big porty/chocolaty flavours and powerful tannins. 5+ $40Haselgrove Wines McLaren Vale IIIThe Ambassador Associates SquidMcLaren Vale Shiraz Ink Reserve Estate2015 HHHHH Grown McLaren Vale“A powerful beast,” Shiraz 2015 HHHHcommented one judge Generous oaky nosewith excellent dark with pretty lifted fruit.varietal fruit and subtle Full-bodied, tannicoak nose. Masses of palate is dominated byoak and fruit on the well- the oak but has nicestructured palate with ripe fruit underneath.good tannin structure. 5+ $55 5+ $85 Haselgrove Wines The Lear McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH A big powerful shiraz with an elegantMcLaren Vale III integration of black cherryAssociates TheDescendant of Squid fruit and lovely chocolaty oak. Some big tanninsInk Estate Grown here. 5+ $90McLaren Vale Shiraz2016 HHHH1/2 Doc Adams BlackBeautifully integrated Label Southaromas of lifted dark fruit Australia Shirazand quality oak. Thick, 2015 HHH1/2rich and generous in the Smoky red fruitmouth with good fruit/ fragrances with someoak flavour complexity savoury hints. The richand strong tannins. full-flavoured palateTime! 5+ $35 has interesting luscious characters. $30Sidewood MappingaAdelaide Hills Shiraz2015 HHHH1/2Good example of stylewith a powerful butelegant black cherry/spicyoak bouquet and a classicrich, full-flavoured shirazpalate with a nice line ofacid. 5+ $60 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 127

NEW RELEASESHand Crafted SHIRAZ 2014 & Shaw Family Nick Haselgroveby Geoff Hardy OLDER Vintners The Wines BlackbillyMcLaren Vale Shiraz Figurehead McLaren McLaren Vale Shiraz2015 HHH1/2 18 TASTED Vale Shiraz 2014 HHHLifted spicy oak bouquet 16 AWARDED 2012 HHHH1/2 Savoury aromas - someand thick full-flavoured A very solid class of big Nose reminiscent of soy notes. Reasonablepalate with drying flavour, big oak wines. Ribena-like characters fruit intensity ontannin finish. “Still a “Everyone seems to be with nice spiciness. well-structured palate.baby,” said one judge. making the same style,” Palate is generous and commented one judge. complex with upfront 3-5 $23 3-5 $30 However, another judge sweetness and chewy Villa Maria Private thought otherwise, Bin Hawkes BayKarrawatta Joseph “Styles ranged from the tannins. 3-5 $80 Shiraz 2014 HHHLanghorne Creek more elegant red fruited Still appears fresh andShiraz 2015 HHH1/2 perfumed ones to the Talbots Block The youthful. The nose isSlightly closed herbal dark fruit/big oak wines”. Sultan Clare Valley smoky and toasty with anose with subtle Shiraz 2014 HHHH lighter style palate. $25spiciness. Generous, Reillys Wines Lovely powerful spicyslightly tannic, Stoneflower Clare dark fruit/oak bouquet. Cantina Abbatiellopalate. Good fruit/oak Valley Shiraz Some aged characters Vagabondo McLarenintegration. $54 2014 HHHHH developing on the Vale Shiraz Great deep cherry red palate. 5+ $36 2012 HHHHaselgrove Wines wines. Oak tends to Lean style with spicy/Col Cross McLaren still dominate the lifted Claymore Wines savoury nose and softVale Shiraz fruit nose and there are Nirvana Reserve tannins, oak and slightly2015 HHH1/2 powerful sweet fruit Grounded Cru Clare Valley Shiraz green fruit on the palate.The nose is big and flavours under the spicy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 HHHHchocolaty with a huge oak with powerful tannin 2014 HHHH1/2 “A monster wine.” 3-5 $20porty palate that has structure. $65 A huge wine - tannic Developing nicely Shaw Familylots of oak and powerful and full flavoured. with masses of black Vintners The 9Ntannins. 5+ $90 Some aged characters cherry-like fruit, Single Vineyard developing on the well-integrated oak McLaren Vale ShirazThorn-Clarke Wines nose and there are and mouth puckering 2014 HHHEden Trail Eden astringent characters tannins. 5+ $50 A complexity of red fruit,Valley Shiraz on the generous palate. spice and black pepper2015 HHH Nardone Baker aromas. Generous 3-5 $20 flavours, subtle tannins.Slightly closed savoury McLaren Vale Shiraz 3-5 $30nose and firm tannic 2014 HHH1/2 Mitolo G.A.M.palate with a slightly Excellent varietal fruit McLaren Vale Shirazsmoky finish. 3-5 and lovely spicy oak. 2014 HHH$30 Peppery lift to the nose Nougat-like characters and rich sour cherry-like on the developed nose.Hemera Estate flavours. 3-5 Sweet upfront palateLimited Release $15.95 with chewy tannins.Home Block BarossaValley Shiraz Talbots Block The 3-5 $582015 HHH Prince Clare ValleyAn elegant yet powerful Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2shiraz with good use of Pretty perfumed floraloak and strong tannin fragrances. Quite tannicstructure. 5+ $80 in the mouth with nice spiciness and quite an acid finish. 5+ $25 Reillys Dry Land Geoff Merrill Jacko’s Clare Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 HHHH1/2 2012 HHH1/2 Subtle cherry and quince Nose beginning to show slight developed characters. Palate is a lovely complexity of fruit, oak, tannins and aged notes. $28.50 aromas with a perfumed lift. The generous palate opens up to lovely sweet fruit flavours nicely integrated with the oak. 3-5 $32128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingMitolo Savitar GMH South EasternMcLaren Vale Shiraz Australia Noble2014 HHH Sweet WhiteCreamy jubey fruit aromas 2016 HHHHand sweet spicy flavours. A lovely nose thatGood balance between smells of orange peeltannin and acid. $80 and quince paste with lusciously sweetRusty Mutt tropical/raisin fruitVermilion Bird flavours. Very sweetMcLaren Vale finish. $18Shiraz 2013 HHH Doc Adams SweetCoconut-like oak aromas South Australiaoverpower the varietal Moscato 2016fruit. Oak dominates the (500ml) HHH1/2sweet/tart flavours. $75 Aromas of rose petals and Turkish DelightSWEET which are echoed onWHITES & the soft generouslyFORTIFIEDS flavoured palate. Good line of acid. $206 TASTED4 AWARDEDSome nice, well-made pulpitcellars.com.auand well-balanced winesfor the sweet tooth. South Point Estate Over 18,000 unique SEA Moscato and premium wines 2016 HHH Pleasant fruity musk stick of a nose with simple, slightly sorbet- like, flavours. $4.99Colli Euganei Fiord’Arancio DOCGAlpianae VenetoPassito 2013 HHHHA fragrant botrytis nosesmelling of frangipaniand orange blossomwith a lusciously sweetand rich savoury style ofpalate. $36 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Brygon Reserve Lion’s Lair Boulder Bay Rosé 2016 The Collective Wine Colli Euganei FiorReserve Western Australia Lively, pale pink Northland Company It’s Pronounced d’Arancio DOCG VenetoSauvignon Blanc 2016 rosé, from syrah grown on Mudgee Mudgee Spumante 2015Lovely passionfruit aromas Moturoa Island, in the Bay Rosé 2016 Nice example of spumantewith just a hint of green of Islands. Floral, with fresh, A lovely light pink wine with its fresh and livelygrass characters. Light and vibrant watermelon and with a slightly closed aromatic nose and sweetsimple in the mouth with spice flavours, very good nose and very soft palate Turkish Delight-like flavoursfresh melon flavours. $18.99 depth and a slightly sweet, impression; gently sweet with some decent mousse. $16 finely balanced finish. $25 with a light tannic finish. $16Millon Wines Societa Agricola Vignalta s.sP: 02 9955 2008 Moturoa Island Wine Co The Collective Wine Company Phone: +39 36 6824 9494E: [email protected] Phone: 021843758 Phone: +61 2 9955 2008 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.vignalta.it Web: www.boulderbaywines.co.nz Web: www.thecollectivewinecompany. com.auBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Brygon Reserve Lion’s Lair A.C. Byrne & Co Blackstone Paddock The Collective WineReserve Western Australia Margaret River Margaret River Cabernet Company It’s PronouncedMerlot 2015 Cabernet Merlot 2015 Sauvignon 2014 Mudgee Mudgee Attractive varietal characters Shiraz 2014Slight mintiness to the A fresh lightweight blend here of blackcurrant andblackcurrant nose. Nicely with attractive sweet fruit red berries with good acid/ “A solid young thing,”rounded palate; generous and good acid structure. tannin balance. $19.99 commented one judge. Has afruit flavours, soft tannin “A nice wine”. $9.99 subtle sweet red fruit bouquetpresence and a little Aldi Stores and a tight palate with aoak. 3-5 $18.99 Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 firm finish. 3-5 $16 Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.auBrygon Reserve Wines Web: www.aldi.com.au The Collective Wine CompanyPhone: +61 419 865 556 Phone: +61 2 9955 2008Email: dean@brygonreservewines. Email: [email protected] Web: www.thecollectivewinecompany.Web: www.brygonreservewines. com.aucom.authe wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 153 | May/June 2017Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2017 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.auTasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings.A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardlessWines are invited from any producer, a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions areprovided that they meet the criteria Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published accordingof the class being judged. The class is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertisingmay be a regional, style or new release is taken or not.tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging systemavailable for consumers to purchase, The judgesalthough we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average morewine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human andAwarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges withWinestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and ausing Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight willprocedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technicalto the judges. The three judges taste expertise and often a marketing/retailthe wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes.without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges arethis is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, masters of wine with vast internationalscores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ experience, and most judges havere-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience at major Australian wineagreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade shows. We are also aware of expertise.the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered If we are judging a region, for example,is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce we will have a winemaker judge fromabove and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, that region because that person knowsis 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; the local style. We balance that withwine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent a judge from outside the region anddrinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine generally someone with broad andnot gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind mature experience.wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice toHOW WE COMPAREWinestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 95 - 96 Very Good 18 - 18.4 93 - 94 HHHH Silver 91 - 92 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 89 - 90 Good HHH Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star ratingsystem which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist.132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

GRANGUSTO 6Developed to assist venues with their portion control, these all-purpose glasses assist to reducethe alcohol odours within the wine, allowing the pleasant characteristics of the winesaromas to rise to the opening. The aeration of the wine is properly balanced due to the triangularshape of the contact surface. Each glass features 3 discrete pour-lines allowing for the correctmeasure to the pour.