Winestate Magazine July August 2017

regional tastingArakoon Clarendon Mollydooker Wines d’Arenberg TheMcLaren Vale Shiraz Blue Eyed Boy Footbolt McLaren2015 HHHH McLaren Vale Vale ShirazVanilla oak tending to Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHHH1/2dominate this wine but Pretty aromatics of Very attractive nosethere is plenty of ripe rhubarb and violets with of ageing plum fruit,plum fruit characters a big hit of vanilla oak malt and clove aromas.underneath. Good length obvious on the palate Ripe licoricey flavoursof tannins. 3-5 $32 with soft tannin support. on the nicely balanced palate that shows aWolf Blass Bromley 5+ $49 good weight of tannins.McLaren ValeShiraz 2015 HHHH Hand Crafted 3-5 $18Subtle blueberry by Geoff Hardy J & J Winesfragrances with a light McLaren Vale Rivers Lanefloral/violet lift. Slippery Shiraz 2015 HHH McLaren Vale Shirazsmooth in the mouth Mulberry nose; hints 2014 HHHH1/2with rich ripe blue fruit of leather and spices. Dark chocolaty bouquetflavours. Drying tannins. Flavoursome berry fruit laced with plums, violets palate. Good acidity. and mint. An elegant 5+ $32 but complex palate with 5+ $30 good fruit weight wellArakoon Doyen Maxwell Ellen Street J & J Wines matched by the oak andMcLaren Vale Richard Hamilton McLaren Vale Shiraz Eminence McLaren with “prickly” tannins.Shiraz 2015 HHHH Centurion 123 Year Vale ShirazA very attractive Old Vine McLaren 2014 HHHHH 5+ $22and elegant style of Vale Shiraz Lifted violet aromaticsshiraz with plenty of 2015 HHH 2014 HHHHH on this elegant blue fruitdark chocolaty oak Cedar oak aromas A very pretty floral nose followed by ancharacters and hints of support blue fruit nose with nice toasty/ intense black tarry palateblue fruits underneath. fragrances with a soft, nutty oak leading to with medicinal elements fleshy, fruit-driven palate. a complex vanilla oak and powerful tannins. 5+ $40 dominated palate with Good acid balance. 3-5 $80Heirloom Vineyards good flavour persistence 5+ $60McLaren Vale SHIRAZ 2014 and a powerful tanninShiraz 2015 HHHH structure. 3-5 $40Satsuma plums on the 31 TASTEDnose with hints of licorice. 30 AWARDED Wolf Blass GreyGood varietal presence on Label McLaren Valethe palate with balancing “Great class!” agreed Shiraz 2014 HHHHHoak and soft tannins. the judges. “This A dense powerful is more typical of bouquet that’s all black 3-5 $40 a great vintage in fruits, violets and spices. McLaren Vale,” saidChalk Hill Clarendon one judge. “The full Very good varietal palate; Monty of big fruit and strong yet supple withMcLaren Vale big oak showing what more of the black fruitShiraz 2015 HHHH blockbusters are allAn elegant varietal nose about!” Bring on the elements supported by meat! the oak. 5+ $45with a light minty liftand a fresh, ripe andseamlessly balanced Pepperjack Scotchplum palate with grainy Fillet Graded Haselgrove Wines McLaren Vale First Cut McLarentannins. 5+ $50 Shiraz 2014 HHHHH Vale Shiraz The nose is ripe andMcLaren Vale III brooding with aromas 2014 HHHH1/2Associates The reminiscent of the Powerful but easyDescendant of Squid forest floor. Intense drinking with pretty floralInk Single Vineyard oak-driven flavours red/blue fruit fragrancesMcLaren Vale Shiraz but has balancing fruit and good balance2016 HHH1/2 and powerful tannins. between the fruit and Needs more time. oak and showing someWell-made wine with ripe notes. Drying tannicprimary jubey fruit 3-5 $50fragrances and a supple Mollydooker Wines finish. 5+ $23 Velvet Glovefull-flavoured fruity Mitolo G.A.M. McLaren Valepalate with nice level of Beresford Classictannins. 3-5 $35 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHHHH Big and bold and is 2014 HHHH1/2 dense, almost black, in Excellent nose; slightly Nose a lovely complexity colour. Aromas of ripe stemmy with nice of blueberries and plums integration of plums, with a sprinkle of coffee figs, nutty oak and some blackberry and charry oak. toastiness. A complex Slightly austere palate grounds. Inky palate; flavour profile on the with fresh varietal fruit ripe and supple with and powerful tannins. some fruit cake flavours, well-balanced, tannic palate. 5+ $185 5+ $28.99 nice acidity and good tannins. 5+ $58 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 101

McLAREN VALE Hastwell & Lightfoot Dowie Doole SHIRAZ Sands Of Time Reserve McLaren 2013 & OLDER McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 21 TASTED Very good integration Mocha aromas with a 20 AWARDED of fruit and oak aromas. light mintiness. Very Fleshy in the mouth with drying tannic palate; Another great class of pleasant fruit flavours plenty of ripe plum ageing shiraz which and good tannin support. flavours. Needs more showcases the best of time. 5+ $80 shiraz. “One of the best 3-5 $30 McLaren Vale judgings I have done overall,” Dowie Doole Cali Salena Estate Wines enthused one of the Road McLaren Vale Twisted Sticks panel. Shiraz 2014 HHHH McLaren Vale Elegant ethereal nose; Shiraz 2014 HHH some plums and oak. An elegant wine; still Long, lingering and has some freshness balanced palate with nice and a complexity of juiciness and good flavour chocolate, blueberry and profile. 5+ $50 malt. 3-5 $30 d’Arenberg Salena Estate Wines The Dead Arm Silhouette McLaren McLaren Vale Vale ShirazGrandeur Mollydooker Wines Shiraz 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHWellington Bin 69 Carnival of Love A pleasant simple shirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz A huge tannic wine, a with bright fruit, some oak tad swamped by the and a menthol complexity.2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH1/2 floral raspberry/cherryA classic style with Ripe licoricey aromas 3-5 $30a very dense and with some mintiness. fruit characters. Just needs more time to bepowerful fruit/oak Good palate weight at its best. 5+ $65 Shaw Familybouquet. Very well with masses of oak but Vintners The 9Nintegrated silky smooth has good complexity of McLaren Valepalate with generous varietal fruit. Hot on the Blackbilly McLaren Shiraz 2014 HHH Vale Shiraz Bright violet and berrysweet plum and oak finish. 3-5 $75 2014 HHH1/2 aromatics with darkflavours. 5+ $30 and complex fruit, oak Beresford Bell Licoricey fragrances and spicy flavours. Tower McLaren Vale with a slight aged2 Mates McLaren Shiraz 2014 HHHH leathery edge and 3-5 $30Vale Shiraz The nose is an elegance flavours of dusty2014 HHHH1/2 of blue fruits and cedary oak and sweetDark fruit bouquet violets lifted by some ripe fruit. 3-5 $23 Clarence Hillwith a bit of chocolate light mintiness. Has a Reserve McLaren Grandeur Wellingtonand a dash of spice. minerally character to James Haselgrove Vale Shiraz Bin 69 McLaren ValeAn elegant, soft and the oak-driven palate. Futures McLaren 2014 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHHHHcomplex palate with $18.99 Vale Shiraz A pretty nose that’s all A delightful mélangegood level of acidity, 2014 HHH1/2 blue fruits with light oak. of chocolate, tarlovely tannins and nice Nose is a nice Riper fruit on the palate and licorice aromasoak complexity. Shingleback Davey combination of with a gamey finish. $32 with some coffee Estate Reserve 3-5 $35 McLaren Vale dark fruits and oak. grounds thrown in! TheHaselgrove Shiraz 2014 HHHH Oak-driven palate Mitolo Savitar delicious palate is stillWines Catkin has pleasant fruit McLaren Vale fresh and elegant andMcLaren Vale Shiraz An aromatic complexity underneath. Good Shiraz 2014 HHH spicy and has bright2014 HHHH1/2 of black fruits and olivesChocolaty nose with tempered with nutty oak tannins. 3-5 $40 Slightly angular wine acidity. 5+ $30hints of plums, malt with a complexity ofand cinnamon. Oak and a full-flavoured dark Mr Riggs McLaren chocolate and berry Beresford Limiteddominates the palate brooding peppery plum Release McLarenbut doesn’t overpower palate. 3-5 $23.50 Vale Shiraz fruits. Subtle oak. More Vale Shirazthe bright fruit. Good 2014 HHH1/2 time! 3-5 $80 2013 HHHHHline of acid and tannins. A pretty nose; nice Pretty blue fruit Clarence Hill Red integration of the fruit fragrances with a 3-5 $40 Label McLaren Vale slight mocha element. Shiraz 2014 HHHH and the oak. Big fruit- Slightly meaty shiraz driven palate, strong fruit flavours on the Olive tapenade/ tannins and a drying palate that has a certain menthol-like characters poise and plenty more evolving on the nose finish. 3-5 $50 cellaring potential. and a big, developing Mr Riggs Scarce 5+ $79.99 and well-integrated Earth McLaren Vale palate with strong Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 tannins. 5+ $25 Lovely dark cherry nose with toasty oak in support. Fleshy and fruity in the mouth with “proud” tannins. 3-5 $50102 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingThe Old Gentlemen The Old Faithful The Old Faithful Beresford EstateMcLaren Vale Shiraz Top of the Hill Café Block McLaren Vale2012 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 HHHVery dark red/black 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHHH Peppery plum bouquetwine with tight blue Perfumed blueberry An attractive vibrancy with a stemmy edge.fruit aromas laced with bouquet with nutty of blue black fragrances Elegant red fruit palatecedar. Long and fleshy notes coming from the and nice presence of with dense tannins.in the mouth with a oak. Complex palate blueberry fruit flavours $49.99seamless integration with good tertiary with a supple line ofbetween the varietal development evident. tannins. 5+ $60 The Old Faithfulfruit and well-handled Nice tannin length. Café Blockoak. 5+ $80 d’Arenberg McLaren Vale 5+ $60 The Dead Arm Shiraz 2011 HHHShingleback D Block Subtle blue fruits on aReserve McLaren Haselgrove Wines McLaren Vale brooding nose. PalateVale Shiraz The Cruth McLaren Shiraz 2013 HHHH has a “nice cooler2012 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz Powerful blueberry climate feel,” said oneElegant bouquet with a 2012 HHHH1/2 bouquet with nice use judge. $60brightness of peppery Nice density of briary of oak. The palate isplum aromas and a fruit on the warm complex and balanced Geoff Merrilldash of spice. More spirituous nose. with strong drying Reserve McLarenelegance on the peppery Excellent palate weight, tannins and lovely Vale Shirazpalate with attractive length and balance vinosity. 5+ $65 2009 HHHcomplexity developing. with lovely vinosity Slightly greener menthol and powerful tannin De Lisio Wines lift to the nose and silky 5+ $55 structure. 5+ $150 The Covert smooth palate withThe Old Faithful McLaren Vale subtle fruit and overtCafé Block Geoff Merrill Henley Shiraz 2010 HHHH oak. $60McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Interesting aromas of2012 HHHH1/2 2006 HHHH1/2 aged red fruits with oak FORTIFIEDPowerful lifted plum Attractive complex/ adding complexity. Fullaromas with vanilla oak aged aromas with a and fleshy in the mouth 1 TASTEDsitting on top. Dense, rich chocolaty palate with nice bottle age. 1 AWARDEDoaky and savoury in the showing interesting “Decant!” 3-5 $25mouth with underlying tertiary developmentfruit characters. Needs and good example of d’Arenberg The Wild Pertaringa Ramparteven more time. regionality. Give it food Pixie McLaren Vale Vintage McLaren wine! $150 Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 3-5 $60 Oak-driven nose with a Hastwell & Lightfoot hint of mint and dash of Vale Fortified McLaren Vale pepper. Spicy peppery 2015 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHHH plum palate with drying Thick VP style with a Powerful chocolaty tannin structure. heady spirituous fruit licorice complexity on cake nose and excellent the nose which follows 3-5 $29 sweet blackberry palate. through to a well- structured palate that Clarence Hill Be even better with has plenty of “poise”. time. 5+ $40 Reserve McLaren 5+ $25 Vale Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Lifted fragrances of Haselgrove Wines violets and blue fruits Catkin McLaren Vale with chocolaty malty Shiraz 2013 HHHH notes and a fleshy and Cedary malty nose with “giving” blueberry red/blue fruits pushing palate. 5+ $32 through. Complex STAR RATINGS  palate, a tad hot and tart Geoff Merrill with pleasant chocolaty Jacko’s McLaren Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of plum flavours. $40 Vale Shiraz excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2012 HHH1/2 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Wolf Blass Grey Ironstone-like elements professionals and are compared in peer Label McLaren Vale on the nose with classes by three judges. Shiraz 2013 HHHH aromatic violet notes. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, A blend of toasty oak Rich, complex palate a major mail-order business. and blue fruit aromas with nice complexity CD Cellar door price. with a violet lift. Soft and developing. $28 CDO Cellar door only. rounded in the mouth SO Sold out. with plum/oak flavours. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Hot finish. 5+ $45  Contact information pg 143. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 103

McLAREN VALE53 TASTED35 AWARDEDLANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUWhilst McLaren Vale gets all the kudos the surrounding coastal Zonte’s Footstep Lake Breeze WinesFleurieu regions of Langhorne Creek, Currency Creek and Violet Beauregard Langhorne CreekSouthern Fleurieu have often been the jewel in the crown that Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignonhas added finesse to the blockbuster inland wines. Malbec 2015 HHH 2015 HHHH Deep purple wine with a A good wine with a big spicy berry fruit bouquet earthy nose and a well- and hints of ripe rounded, well balanced mulberry flavours. $25 and very tasty palate showing attractive cigar CABERNET box oak. $25 SAUVIGNON &SPARKLING Shaw Family OTHER RED BLENDS Wolf Blass Grey Vintners VARIETALS & Label Langhorne1 TASTED Stonemason BLENDS 16 TASTED Creek Cabernet1 AWARDED Currency Creek 12 AWARDED Sauvignon Shiraz Unwooded 8 TASTED Consistent group across 2014 HHHHZonte’s Footstep Chardonnay the range with an Interesting beefy/leafyBolle Felici Fleurieu 2016 HHH 4 AWARDED “attack of the tannins”, bouquet. Palate hasPeninsula Prosecco Creamy oak nose with suggested one judge. plenty of flavour withNV HHH light bright lemon butter- Mixed bag of interesting Some were varietal but delicate use of oak andAttractive apple-like like flavours and crisp varietals going many tended to more a good tannin structurebouquet and a mouthful acidity. $12 through what the dry red flavours. with a rich finish. $45of crisp fruit flavours. Andrew Peace judges described as a$20 Wines Winemaker’s “discovery phase”. Dandelion Vineyards Parson’s Paddock Choice Langhorne Pride of the Fleurieu Langhorne CreekOTHER WHITE Creek Chardonnay Three Dark Horses Fleurieu Peninsula Cabernet SauvignonVARIETALS & 2015 HHH Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 HHH1/2BLENDS Ripe varietal fruit Touriga 2015 HHHH 2015 HHHH1/2 Rich ripe aromas of characters nicely Savoury fruit nose Massive colour here with plums, tobacco and2 TASTED supported by the oak showing a lift of black dense lifted blackcurrant herbs. The palate is0 AWARDED and the acid backbone. olives and herbs. Long, aromas showing a bright, lively and smooth $18 nicely structured palate herbal-like note. Palate with fine dense flavours.CHARDONNAY -elegant but also shows offers a big mouthful of $14 ROSÉ some complexity. $25 sweet ripe fruit flavours6 TASTED and some quite drying Doc Adams VBBAEULSYUTSE3 AWARDED 1 TASTED tannins. $27.50 Wines South 1 AWARDED AustraliaA mixed bag with some Cabernet Sauvignonlacking definition and Zonte’s Footstep Hand Crafted 2015 HHH1/2others heading in the Scarlet Ladybird by Geoff Hardy A soft and gentleright direction. Fleurieu Peninsula Southern Fleurieu cabernet that is Rosé 2016 HHH Cabernet Franc flavoursome andClarence Hill Gentle lifted 2015 HHHH balanced with cool blueAdelaide confectionery fruit Lovely aromas with fruit characters and fineChardonnay aromas with nice light delicate floral hints of tannins. $202016 HHH1/2 bright flavour profile. violets. A seamlesslyAttractive lifted oaky $20 balanced, rich, silky GMH South VBBAEULSYUTSEaromas; some leesy smooth palate that has a Australiacomplexity. Nice certain elegance. $30 Cabernetcomplete and wellbalanced palate with Doc Adams Wines Sauvignongood acid spine. $15 2015 HHH1/2 South Big, bold and fruity with Australia VBBAEULSYUTSE Tempranillo cassis, oak and mint evident on the nose. 2015 HHH Lots of varietal flavours. A bigger style with dusty plum fruit characters, Shows great potential. $20 some charry wood influence and drying tannins. $20104 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingBlass Reserve Karrawatta Lake Breeze Wines Shottesbrooke Jim’s BlockBlack Cassis Spartacus Winemaker’s Vineyards Regional Heritage CollectionLanghorne Creek Langhorne Creek Selection Langhorne Series Langhorne Langhorne CreekCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Creek Shiraz Creek Shiraz Shiraz 2014 HHH2015 HHH1/2 Malbec Shiraz 2014 HHHH 2015 HHH Simple blackberry andBramble fruit nose with 2014 HHH Rich and chocolaty on the Unusual flinty/meaty oak aromas. Soft andnice minty/herbal lift. Bright minty dusty nose with some light leafy nose and interesting gentle in the mouth withMedium-bodied sweet bouquet and a soft notes. Gorgeous palate; rich silky smooth palate bright fruit notes. $24.99fruit palate layered with palate that still shows it’s rich, balanced and very with medicinal notes. Metala Blacksubtle tannins. $24 plenty of brambly flavoursome. $42 $14.99 Langhorne CreekZonte’s Footstep flavours. $92 Pepperjack Angus & Bremer Shiraz 2014 HHHAvalon Tree Porterhouse Graded Langhorne Creek Slightly greenish fruitFleurieu Peninsula SHIRAZ & Langhorne Creek Shiraz Cabernet on the nose with someCabernet Sauvignon BLENDS Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2015 HHH spiciness and a greenish2015 HHH1/2 A good soft gentle wine Big ripe brambly/ edge to the fruit on theLifted minty/blackcurrant 19 TASTED made more in a dry chocolaty nose and a palate. $64.99bouquet with hints 14 AWARDED red style. Great colour, powerful palate denseof riper characters. attractive chocolaty nose with ripe sweet fruitDelicately structured, A very solid group and soft spicy plum fruit flavours. $15elegant, well balanced agreed the judges. “Very palate. $50 Andrew Peacepalate. $25 consistent line-up but Metala White Label Wines Winemaker’sWolf Blass Grey also these were similar Langhorne Creek Choice LanghorneLabel Langhorne wines which tend to not Shiraz Cabernet Creek ShirazCreek Cabernet express regionality,” Sauvignon 2015 HHHSauvignon Shiraz commented one judge. 2015 HHH1/2 Slightly jammy aromas2013 HHH1/2 “Bankable, but a bit Big rich and chocolaty and a complex andHerbal/charry oak notes more experimentation blend with a sweet generous fruit flavourto the nose. Masses of would be great.” oak nose and long ripe profile with soft tannins.varietal flavours showing brambly fruit flavours $18herbal-like characters Angus & Bremer with a soft finish. $22.99 Lake Breeze Winesand firm tannins. $45 Langhorne Creek Blass Reserve Black Bernoota LanghorneKimbolton Fig Tree Shiraz 2015 HHHH Spice Langhorne Creek ShirazLanghorne Creek Dense purple wine Creek Shiraz Cabernet 2015 HHHCabernet Sauvignon with rich concentration 2015 HHH1/2 A sweet and spicy2014 HHH of tarry/brambly/beefy Ripe blackberry/oak bouquet. Round and softNose is a subtle aromas. Palate has a aromas with a dash of in the mouth with goodcomplexity of herbs, dense core of sweet pepper. Nice up-front palate structure anddusty oak and mint. fruit and ripe tannins. sweet fruit on the palate great finish. $22Good fruit weight on the $20 with dense core of Lake Breezepalate. Ageing well. $25 tannins. $24 Wines Section 54Lake Breeze Wines Zonte’s Footstep Parson’s Paddock Langhorne CreekArthur’s Reserve Lake Doctor Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 HHHLanghorne Creek Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 HHH Interesting nose withCabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2015 HHHH Quite complex aromas a smoky oak lift. It’sPetit Verdot Malbec A soft and complete and an opulent palate all sweet cherries and2014 HHH nose and a palate with great depth of tobacco on the richGreat purple colour, that’s elegant but also varietal fruit characters. palate. $25vibrant brambly/earthy has some richness of $14aromas and sweet fruit ripe bramble-like fruitflavours on the silky characters. $25palate. $42JUDGES Peter Kennedy Nick Haselgrove Rob Ruediger Winemaker for Winestate’s 2010 Orchard Wine Estates. Ekhidna Wines. Australian Winemaker Wine consultant. Formerly Formerly with Foggo of the Year. Winemaker/ senior production winemaker Wines and Brothers Director of Adelaide at Accolade Wines (Hardy in Arms wineries; Winemakers. Former Wine Company) involving all following ten years chief winemaker at varieties and styles. Wine in liquor retail. Haselgrove Wines. judge at Brisbane wine show. Has vintaged in St. A ‘flying winemaker’ Emilion and judged from 1993-95. Judge in Perth and regional at Hobart for 3 years wine shows. and associate judge at Adelaide in 1996-97. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 105

winestatepromotionTRADE TALKSTHE REBIRTH OF THE KANGAROOISLAND TRADING COMPANY ISGIVING THE LOCAL WINEINDUSTRY A BOOST.DAN TRAUCKIMOST people do not know that Kangaroo Florance Cabernet Merlot. The KITC venture are a number of island wine labels, someIsland, which covers some 4500 square was officially launched in February 1992 of which are renowned across Australia forkilometres, was discovered in 1803 by at the Kingscote Town Hall by then South their great quality and consistency.explorer Mathew Flinders. It was the original Australian premier Lynn Arnold, and wassite for the colony of South Australia when it attended by a raft of dignitaries, including the There are only one or two growerswas settled at Kingscote in 1836 by staff of irrepressible, Wolf Blass. Timed to coincide currently making their wine on the island,the South Australia Company, that is, free with the annual Kangaroo Island Racing while the rest truck their grapes, via amen not convicts. It is officially recognised Carnival, the launch drew a big crowd of short ferry ride, to the mainland to haveas the first official European settlement in interested locals and mainlanders. the wine made.South Australia. When talking about growing grapes on the As a result of the continued growth in The colony was later relocated to Adelaide island, Amadio said: “I have always predicted volume, there are now some 200ha of vineswithin the space of three to four years due that Kangaroo Island would produce some planted. With the recognised high qualityto the lack of available drinking water on the of this country’s best wines once the climate of grapes being produced on the island, inisland. The island’s fortunes have waxed and was understood and appropriate varieties are 2001, Wine Australia declared Kangaroowaned since, but now it is riding a wave of grown in carefully selected areas”. Island an official wine growing region withinterest due to its “clean and green” image, its own Geographical Indicator (GI).and its plethora of innovative small producers The quality ofmaking artisan wine, beer, spirits, cider, honey the Kangaroo Island The good news is that after an unavoidableand a wide array of locally-made condiments, Trading Company wines hiatus, the Kangaroo Island Tradingand fresh produce. is now being recognised Company is back, bigger and better than not only in Australia before. With Amadio back at the helm, it In terms of viticulture, the island’s history kicked off with the recent release of thedates back to the 1970s when a small but also in China. Kangaroo Island Trading Company 2015vineyard was planted at Eastern Cove range of varietal wines led by a sensationalby Barry Hayes. This venture was later Over the years subsequent vintages of shiraz. The varieties in the range arefollowed in 1985 by Michael and Rosie Florance wine went on to win many gold sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, merlot,Florance who planted vines at Cygnet River. medals, including a trophy for the “Best cabernet sauvignon and of course, theHowever, proper commercial viticulture really Red Blend” at the Royal Adelaide Wine star of the portfolio, shiraz. The currentcommenced on the island in 1987 when Show. Incidentally, the later vintages such red wines are made from grapes grownentrepreneur winemaker Caj Amadio, planted as the 1997 and 1998 Florance are still on the same westward-sloping, originalvines at Emu Bay. Initially Amadio planted a drinking magnificently today. A testament Florance property at Cygnet River, 17kmtrial plot of 90 grenache, shiraz, cabernet to the quality of grapes grown on the island west of Kingscote. The vineyard has beensauvignon, merlot and pinot noir vines. The and justification for this venture. enhanced, so that the plantings nowplot was sponsored by Penfolds Wines as the include shiraz.company was keen to see how vines fared However, the consistent success ofin this maritime climate. The trial proved to Florance wine was the catalyst that When asked what made the Kangaroobe more than successful with the vineyard encouraged others to “have a go” at Island Trading Company 2015 Shirazproducing very high grade grapes. growing grapes on the island. Today, there the headliner of the range, Amadio said: “Great colour with a perfect balance of It wasn’t long before Michael Florance and tannins, flavour and acid. Vibrant colour.Amadio reached an amicable agreement The mouth feel is beautifully balancedwhereby Florance would grow the grapes without being too heavy; however, theand Amadio would make and sell the wine. In intensity of fruit is outstanding. This is a1990, the Kangaroo Island Trading Company great wine that will improve even further(KITC) was established, creating the island’s as it is still quite young.”first true commercial wine with its 1991 This year Winestate magazine conducted its first Kangaroo Island wine106 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

Amadio Wines Pty Ltd Amadio Wines Pty Ltd Amadio Wines Pty Ltd Amadio Wines Pty Ltd Kangaroo Island Trading Company Kangaroo Island Trading Company Kangaroo Island Trading Compnay Syrah Kangaroo Island Trading Company Merlot Chardonnay 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 2015 2015 was awarded a was awarded a was awarded a was awarded a Gold Medal Double Gold Medal Double Gold Medal Double Gold Medal at the CWSA Best Value 2017 at the CWSA Best Value 2017 at the CWSA Best Value 2017 at the CWSA Best Value 2017 CWSA IS THE BIGGEST & MOST PRESTIGIOUS WINE & SPIRITS COMPETITION IN HONG KONG & CHINA CWSA IS THE BIGGEST & MOST PRESTIGIOUS WINE & SPIRITS COMPETITION IN HONG KONG & CHINA CWSA IS THE BIGGEST & MOST PRESTIGIOUS WINE & SPIRITS COMPETITION IN HONG KONG & CHINA CWSA IS THE BIGGEST & MOST PRESTIGIOUS WINE & SPIRITS COMPETITION IN HONG KONG & CHINA Carefully selected as CWSA Judges are the top 100 BUYERS - Importers, Distributors and Retailers, all Carefully selected as CWSA Judges are the top 100 BUYERS - Importers, Distributors and Retailers, all Carefully selected as CWSA Judges are the top 100 BUYERS - Importers, Distributors and Retailers, all Carefully selected as CWSA Judges are the top 100 BUYERS - Importers, Distributors and Retailers, allbased in Hong Kong and China. This important CWSA Medal is the most powerful endorsement of quality based in Hong Kong and China. This important CWSA Medal is the most powerful endorsement of quality based in Hong Kong and China. This important CWSA Medal is the most powerful endorsement of quality based in Hong Kong and China. This important CWSA Medal is the most powerful endorsement of quality and suitability for the Chinese market. and suitability for the Chinese market. and suitability for the Chinese market. and suitability for the Chinese market.judging, as a separate region, with some Amadio has always believed in the high significant upgrade so that it will soon beexcellent results. This judging was also quality of KI wines and worked hard to able to accommodate commercial jets,used as the platform for the Kangaroo promote the island’s reputation. The quality which will encourage commercial flightsIsland Wine of the Year Awards. The of the Kangaroo Island Trading Company from Adelaide, but also directly fromtop scoring wine was Kangaroo Island wines is now being recognised not only Melbourne and Sydney. It is anticipatedTrading Company 2015 Shiraz, which in Australia but also in China, where at that these direct flights will be appealing towas the only five-star rated wine of the this year’s China Wine and Spirits Awards Chinese tourists once they become awarecompetition, which made it the Kangaroo the 2015 shiraz, 2015 merlot and 2015 of the island’s “clean and green” reputation.Island Wine of the Year. Other excellent cabernet sauvignon all won double gold To further enhance the tourism attractionresults in this blind judging were the medals for “Best Value” while the 2016 and to make stays on the island moreKangaroo Island Trading Company 2015 chardonnay also won a gold medal. appealing, there are plans to construct aMerlot and Kangaroo Island Trading world-class 18-hole golf course along withCompany 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, These are exciting times not only for an impressive, five-star luxury hotel.which were both awarded four stars. An Kangaroo Island Trading Company’soutstanding “first” effort. wines, but also for the island. For example, The future is looking bright for all things KI, the island’s small airport is undergoing a especially for its wines and tourism. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 107

AUSTRIA65 TASTED45 AWARDEDKANGAROO ISLANDKing Island, eat your heart out, Kangaroo Island is coming! Maybe Two Wheeler Creek OTHER WHITEit has taken a long time but this region has potential for making Turkey Nest 2 VARIETALS &elegant wines (think Langhorne Creek) in the future! Cabernet Kangaroo Island BLENDSappears to be the hero here but also watch out for mid-weight Sauvignon Blancshiraz wines and chardonnay. 2015 HHH1/2 4 TASTED Huge pungent hit of 4 AWARDEDSPARKLING Dudley Dudley herbaceous aromas and Bubbly Kangaroo heaps of varietal fruit A strong class of4 TASTED Island Sparkling flavours of kiwi fruit with interesting rieslings and3 AWARDED Chardonnay a great finish. $25 other varietals. NV HHHA decent group of nice Fresh fruit-driven bouquet PINOT GRIS/ Bay of Shoalsdry sparklings, along and lively crisp fruit GRIGIO Kangaroo Islandwith a quality sparkling flavours on the palate; Savagninshiraz. good mousse. $25 4 TASTED 2016 HHHH 2 AWARDED Delicate flinty lemonyHazyblur L’Eclat SAUVIGNON hint to the nose withVintage Kangaroo BLANC A couple of nice more of the flinty/Island Blanc de Noir quaffers here. mineral characters2013 HHH1/2 7 TASTED on the very crisp andNice yeasty autolysis 2 AWARDED Bay of Shoals refreshing palate. Needson the nose and plenty Kangaroo Island oysters! $20of crisp clean apple-like Apart from a couple Pinot Grisflavours with some of wines most in this 2016 HHHsweetness. $65 group lacked any varietal Soft developed aromas definition. with hints of pears. Nice SnowDragon Wines tight flavours and slightly Kangaroo Island Momentum short finish. $20 Sparkling Shiraz Kangaroo Island 2012 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Hazyblur Kangaroo Chocolaty plum aromas 2016 HHH1/2 Island Pinot Gris with hints of age Lifted varietal nose with 2016 HHH developing. Pleasant herbal characters and Lifted crisp varietal sweet mouthful of rich tropical notes. Good with nose of pears fruit flavours. Still has flavour concentration with hint of florals and potential. $42 with crisp crunchy crisp stalky green apple acidity. $22 flavours. $22JUDGES Marc Allgrove Dan Traucki Michael Schreurs Partner at Evans and Freelance wine journalist Winemaker at the Lane Ayers consulting firm. with 29 years’ experience Vineyard. Previously With over 20 years in the in the industry. He has at Henschke, Seppelt Australian wine industry, evaluated and written Great Western and in both Australia and abroad. about wines from: Burgundy and Rhone Worked at Hardy’s, Georgia, Turkey, India, Valley. Has judged Constellation, Chapel Hill Japan, Greece & Spain at the Barossa and (CEO) and director of the as well as innovative Adelaide Hills wine Phylloxera board. (alternative) Australian shows. wines.108 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingDudley Cape Hart False Cape OTHER RED STUNNING CLIFFTOPKangaroo Island The Captain KI VARIETALS & CELLAR DOORRiesling 2016 HHHH Chardonnay BLENDSGood lemon/lime varietal 2016 HHH1/2 BRAND NEWcharacters on the flinty Tight, young, bright 7 TASTED FUNCTION ROOMnose and a big mouthful golden wine with 5 AWARDEDof pithy fruit flavours complex oaky aromas NOW OPEN FORwith a good solid acid and long flavoursome The judges found WEDDINGS ANDbackbone. $25 creamy palate with a this to be a solid and CONFERENCES! crisp finish. $27 interesting class ofThe Islander Estate varietals showing lots of Visit our online storeVineyards Wally Bay of Shoals potential. www.shop.dudleywines.com.auWhite KI Semillon Oaked Kangaroo before the end of June to receive2015 HHH1/2 Island Chardonnay The Stoke WinesLovely enticing toasty 2016 HHH Wines of Paradise Free postage (within Aust.) onvanilla aromas. Obvious Peachy fruit and vanilla KI Sangiovese any order of 6 bottles or moreoak influence on a long oak characters on both 2016 HHHH1/2creamy palate that has a the nose and palate Great colour, powerful (1 order per person).certain elegance to it. $35 with just a hint of aromas; some ripe That’s just $200/dozen for Cape Hart citrus. $20 fruit and some oak andBay of Shoals a silky smooth, richly Riesling delivered to you!Kangaroo Island Bay of Shoals flavoured palate withRiesling 2016 HHH Kangaroo Island some herbal hints and Why not try some K.I. wine today?!Gentle floral nose with a Chardonnay plenty of acidity for adelicate fruity lift. Tastes of 2016 HHH long life. $28 Enter code: DUDLEYWINE2Ucrisp lime juice. $20 Soft, light floral aromas and bright flavours on The Islander Estate 1153 Willoughby Road,CHARDONNAY the long complex palate. Vineyards Majestic Penneshaw, It has a nice crisp finish. Plough KI Malbec7 TASTED $20 2013 HHHH1/2 Kangaroo Island5 AWARDED Spicy minty bouquet Dudley Island with an oaky lift. Ph: (08) 8553 1333A solid group showing Kangaroo Island Good concentration of E: [email protected] ageing potential. Chardonnay mulberry flavours with 2016 HHH aged leathery notesFalse Cape Soft peachy/citrus and some well-handled,The Captain KI bouquet and an quality, oak. Good line ofChardonnay attractive fresh crisp acid. Finishes well. $352015 HHHH peach and apricot-likeAromas are a complexity palate. $20 Kangaroo Islandof toasty oak mixed Trading Co.with excellent fruit ROSÉ Kangaroo Islandcharacters. The palate is Merlot 2015 HHHHrich and complex. Good 3 TASTED Very attractive tarryflavour intensity. $27 1 AWARDED chocolaty aromas and masses of complex Just one wine that made flavours on a big ripe the grade. “There is no palate with a tight grippy reason why these can’t tannic finish. $35 be made on the Island,” thought one of the The Islander Estate judges. Vineyards The Investigator KI The Stoke Wines Cabernet Franc Wines of Paradise 2012 HHHH KI Sangiovese Rosé “Amazing colour here,” 2016 HHH noted one judge. Vibrant pink wine “Almost black.” Lively with a delicate herbal fruit aromas with a hint bouquet and crisp light of oak and a powerful flavours. $26 chocolaty palate. $150 www.dudleywines.com.au July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 109

KANGAROO ISLANDThe Islander False Cape SHIRAZ & SnowDragon Wines MomentumEstate Vineyards The Captain KI BLENDS Kangaroo Island Kangaroo IslandSoFar SoGood KI Cabernet Sauvignon Shalin’s Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHSangiovese 2014 HHH1/2 16 TASTED 2013 HHHH Delicate aromas with a2016 HHH Simple leafy blackcurrant 13 AWARDED Big jubey blackberry hint of pepper. NicelyGreat colour, a savoury bouquet and some nice fruit nose layered with balanced palate withnose and nice fruit fruit sweetness on the Consistently strong charry oak. Lovely lovely flavours. $22weight on the palate with flavoursome palate with class, currently the concentration of varietala good acid line. $25 slightly sour acidity. $32 region’s forté agreed flavours on the long Maxwell Kangaroo SnowDragon Wines the judges. However dense and still youthful Island ShirazCABERNET Kai’s Kangaroo they range in the semi- palate. $46 2015 HHHSAUVIGNON & Island Cabernet cool climate category. Hazyblur Kangaroo A slight herbal lift to theBLENDS Sauvignon Interesting class of ‘up- Island Shiraz nose and a complex 2013 HHH1/2 and-comers’. 2015 HHH1/2 balance of spicy/sweet12 TASTED A big complex cabernet Rich complex aromas fruit flavours. $259 AWARDED with dusty chocolaty Kangaroo Island with a hint of Bonox. Big fragrances and smooth Trading Co. dense, velvety palate Bay of ShoalsConsistently solid group rich palate that fills the Kangaroo Island with excellent flavour Kangaroo Islandwith excellent varietal mouth with flavour. $46 Shiraz 2015 HHHHH persistence. $25 Shiraz 2014 HHHdefinition from this Dudley Hog Bay A rich and opulent Kangaroo Island Lovely aromas with hintsmarginal climate. Kangaroo Island nose; very ripe with Estate Kangaroo of meatiness and forest Cabernet Sauvignon spicy jubey fruit and oak Island Shiraz floor-like characters.Hazyblur Kangaroo 2014 HHH aromas. Big rich and 2009 HHH1/2 Elegant silky smoothIsland Cabernet Dense colour and very flavoursome palate Dusty gamey bouquet palate. $20Sauvignon ripe chocolaty fruity with loads of chocolaty and a smooth, balanced2015 HHHH fragrances with a palate fruit and some cola-like and complete palate False Cape Ship’sSlightly green characters rich with choc-mint characters. $35 with a tight grippy tannic Graveyard KI Shirazto the berry nose with flavours. $36 finish. $20 2014 HHHa nice tight palate that False Cape Dudley Porky Flat The Islander Estate Nose is leafy and ais rich with flavour, The Captain KI Kangaroo Island Vineyards SoFar little earthy and it has ahas grippy tannins and Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2014 HHHH SoGood KI Shiraz pleasant lightweight red“green” acid. $25 2013 HHH Complex aromas with 2016 HHH fruit palate. $21 Soft berry nose with hints of coffee and some Good blackberry noseKangaroo Island chocolaty oak. Balanced green touches. Medium- which is echoed on the Dudley The StudTrading Co. and flavoursome palate bodied palate with cola fresh bright palate. Easy Kangaroo IslandKangaroo Island with peppery notes. $32 and vanilla characters. drinker. $25 Shiraz 2013 HHHCabernet Sauvignon Bay of Shoals Good acidity. $38 Meaty aromas with2015 HHHH Kangaroo Island nice minty notes andNose is a nice mix Cabernet Sauvignon The Islander Estate a drier, savoury styleof ripe varietal fruit 2009 HHH Vineyards Bark of palate with complexand charry oak. Good Interesting minty Hut Road Reserve flavours. $88powerful varietal palate characters to the complex KI Shiraz Cabernetwith a lovely flavour nose with a silky smooth Franc 2014 HHHH Bay of Shoals Hillprofile and a lingering and elegant palate. Drink Plumy aromas with Reserve Kangaroofinish. $35 soon! $20 interesting savoury/ Island Shiraz Kangaroo Island peppery elements. 2011 HHHFalse Cape Estate Kangaroo Beautifully integrated, Soft ageing nose withUnknown Sailor KI Island Cabernet medium weight leathery touches. SilkyCabernet Merlot Sauvignon palate with jubey fruit smooth in the mouth2013 HHHH 2009 HHH flavours. $50 with gentle flavours.Appealing complexity of Lovely aged licoricey $20chocolaty jammy aromas aromas and smooth richwith hints of herbs. A palate with blue fruit-like SWEET WHITEvery classy and elegant flavours. $20 & FORTIFIEDpalate with heaps offlavour. $21 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED A good result for this one wine. Hazyblur Myambla Kangaroo Island Late Picked Shiraz 2015 HHHH Lovely sweet blackberry jam-like nose and a rich, sweet and nicely rounded palate. Not too cloying and with good spirit notes. $25110 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

SUBSCRIBER EVENTSSEPTEMBER 2017 JOIN US TODAY!ADELAIDE - Winestate Wine of the Year Australia & NZ By becoming a Winestate SubscriberFriday 1st September 2017 - National Wine Centre, Adelaide you will receive complimentary(Tickets available now - Subscribers receive one tickets to our events!complementary ticket upon request)November 2017QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards LunchThursday 16 November 2017 - Gantleys of Queenstown, NZ12 noon - 3pm - (Tickets available mid 2017)ADELAIDE - Wine of the Year AwardsFriday 24 November 2017 - Adelaide Convention Centre1pm – 3pm - Trade Only & By Invitation(Invitations will be sent September 2017)HONG KONG - Winestate Wines of AustraliaHK Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, HONG KONG9-11 November 2017Details at: www.hktdc.com(Hong Kong Corporate Tasting Event), November 9-10 2017Email Peter Jackson: [email protected] 2018PERTH - 2018 Winestate Best of the West &Wine of the Year TastingFriday 19 January 2018 - 6pm – 8.30pmPerth Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth, Western Australia(Tickets available late 2017 - Subscribers receive twocomplementary tickets upon request)APRIL 2018Cabernet & Bordeaux Night - National Wine Centre, AdelaideFriday 6 April, 2018 (6-8.30pm)Tickets available early 2018Vinitaly 2018 - Veronafiere, Verona, Italy15-18 April, 2018Details at www.vinitaly.com/enEmail Peter Jackson: [email protected] 2018Mainfreight International Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XIIINational Wine Centre, AdelaideFriday 25 May, 2018 (6-8.30pm)Tickets available early 2018

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINTASMANIASECRET’S OUT Green Gables has two comfortable and Apartment has a queen bed and private self-contained apartments in a gorgeous deck with outdoor seating, similar kitchenette,COAST House, a private, adults-only retreat setting overlooking the water, just a few TV and wireless, DVD/CD player as well asoverlooking the water in the Huon Valley, minutes out of town. a modern bathroom with fluffy towels andis one of Tasmania’s best-kept boutique robes. Prices per night for a couple start fromaccommodation secrets. Surrounded by Both apartments are individually decorated. $130 for Gardenview and $165 for Watervieworchards, vineyards and small farms in One comes with its own lounge, the other off-peak ($145/$185 high season). There is athe beautiful Huon Valley, Coast House is is smaller with a chic Parisian theme. The nominal two-night minimum but the ownersthe perfect escape from the hustle and apartments are clean, nicely furnished and are flexible. Apartments are serviced daily.bustle of the city - tranquil and perfectly both have verandas with barbecues and their Green Gables B&B, 6974 Channel Highway,equipped for a few days of gourmet solitude. own private entrances. Both overlook lovely Cygnet; phone (03) 6295 0400 or visit www.Quolls, pademelons, betongs, bandicoots gardens. This family-run bed and breakfast green-gables.com.au.and wedge-tailed eagles are among your provides breakfast provisions (cheese, freshclosest neighbours on a private peninsular eggs and ham included), and can arrange SPIRITS OF THE VALLEYsurrounded by water and nature - but for meals for late arrivals. It also deliversprovisioned with all life’s little luxuries; from afternoon tea with biscuits and cakes (all THE team behind the successful Willie Smith’sNetflix and fast wifi to bottles of local wines. home-made) daily - a perfect pick-me-up Organic Cider has launched a new line ofCompleted just two years ago and owned after a day visiting local beaches, farm apple spirits crafted in the south of Tasmania.and operated by experienced hospitality stalls, cideries and wineries. Hosts Paul andprofessionals Judi and John Willoughby (ex Beate Fenton make sure guests have as The spirits are named in honour of CharlesFairlight), Coast House offers two queen size much info and contact as they need - some Oates, a regional pioneer in the Huon Valley.bedrooms, each with their own adjoining may just prefer to watch yachts sail by on Charles Oates Fine Apple Brandy is createdbathroom. Luxuries include a wood fire in the Huon River, others may head to Hobart from distilling Willie Smith’s apple cider, madethe living room and heated floors throughout (45 minutes away) or Huon attractions, from fruit grown at the Smith family orchardthe house, a fully equipped modern kitchen including Tahune Forest Airwalk, Hastings in the Huon Valley. Before commissioningoverlooking the water, covered veranda, Caves or the Wooden Boat Centre at Franklin. a locally built Alembic still last year, thegourmet hamper and luxury provisions on Waterview Apartment has a king bed, lounge decision was made to work with Redlandsarrival (smoked salmon, sushi, cheeses, with TV, DVD/CD player, wireless internet Estate to distill cider. This spirit has beenbread, fresh fruits etc) and gourmet meals in and a library, along with a kitchenette with aged in a range of tokay, muscat and sherrythe freezer with local wine included, as well as microwave, toaster, mini bar, veranda, and barrels in the style of the delicious Frenchgourmet breakfast ingredients. The bedrooms separate bathroom with a shower and apple brandy calvados - all available atfeature luxurious linens and original artworks, double spa bath. The smaller Gardenview the Willie Smith Apple Shed in Ranelagh.while a stroll to the private beach on Beaupre “We are overwhelmed with how the productPoint might yield a harvest of mussels andoysters from the rocks. Coast House is 10minutes to Cygnet village, 55 minutes toHobart and an hour to Hobart Airport, butmany guests do not leave for the duration oftheir stay, preferring to explore Cygnet CoastRd with its blueberry farms and vineyards.Rates start from $550 - a bargain when sharedfour ways. Phone (03) 6295 1876 or 0409 446290, or visit www.coasthouse.com.WATER VIEWSTHE Huon Valley town of Cygnet is wellequipped with upmarket accommodation,but for those on a more modest budget whostill want to be comfortable and cosseted,112 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

travelbriefs FAVOURS FROM THE WILD THERE seems to be no end to the number of delicious gins being produced by boutiquehas turned out; it’s dark and rich colour and Sorell’s hotels, cafe and restaurants, quaint distilleries in Tasmania.flavour is so exciting to see and taste, we and comfortable Sorell Barracks gets acan’t wait to bottle our small batches and thumbs up. Sorell Barracks is at 31 Walker The latest release is a trio of gins fromshare it with the people of Tasmania,” says Dr St, Sorell; phone (03) 6265 1572.Tim Jones, head cider maker and distiller at Southern Wild Distillery and is named afterWillie Smith’s and Charles Oates. More apple POWERED BY THE SUNbrandies will come online in the future. “I first two wild rivers - Dasher and Fisher - which runfell in love with calvados when I was visiting VISITORS to popular Moores Hill cellar doorFrance on a research trip four years ago,” in the Tamar Valley can enjoy an inspection from Cradle Mountain through the hinterlandsays Willie Smith’s co-founder Sam Reid. of Tasmania’s first off-grid winery. From“It’s an absolutely delicious spirit and I knew vintage 2017, Moores Hill is making wine to the north-west coastline of the Applethat it was something we just had to develop powered by the sun. Construction of thein Tasmania. The still enables us to make a winery marks the 20th anniversary of Isle. The Dasher + Fisher range comprisestraditional-style calvados while also improving the vineyard being planted and is a jointthe quality of our cider. If we produce a batch project with new business partners Tim three gins that have been made usingwe’re not 100 per cent comfortable releasing and Sheena High, of Native Point Wines.we can just distill it and make apple spirit. In The solar system uses a 28kW solar array, ingredients inspired by the clean air andthis we’ve also found a way to reduce wastage comprised of 108 solar panels on the roofin the cider making process, so it’s a win-win.” of the winery. There is the ability to store dramatic Tasmanian landscape, and areCharles Oates Fine Apple Brandy is available power with a total battery capacity ofin 200ml ($80) and 350ml ($120) bottles. Visit 81kW hours using high-performance gel called Mountain, Meadow and Ocean. Craftedwww.williesmiths.com.au. batteries. “When we bought Moores Hill in 2008 there was a vineyard and cellar by local distiller George Burgess, showcasingCONFINED TO BARRACKS door but nowhere to crush grapes and make wine,” says co-owner Fiona Weller. local botanicals, Mountain uses nativeTHERE is a touch of colonial history and a lot “The previous owners had the wine madeof impressive hospitality for guests at Sorell under contract at an off-site winery, a pepperberry and citrus, vibrant MeadowBarracks, a delightful bed and breakfast just common practice throughout the industry25 minutes outside of Hobart, close to the and very common in Tasmania.” But after highlights lavender and Ocean featuresCoal River Valley and 10 minutes from Hobart years of sharing winery space and havingAirport. There are several accommodation wine made under contract, it was time for wakame seaweed among other ingredients.options, including a small self-contained winemaker Julian Allport to build his owngarden cottage that might once have been winery. “The winery is the first built structure The gins are distilled using a unique coppera chapel and packed with antiques, all visitors see when they approach at Mooresthe modern facilities you might need for Hill so it needed to create a positive initial still that Burgess designed and had hand-a short stay and a small, but impeccably impression and make a statement about ourclean bathroom. The oldest building in the wine business,” he said. “We were excited made in Tasmania. The design uses a vapourtownship of Sorell, the Barracks is a colonial to find that a solar powered option was onlyGeorgian terrace built in 1827. The building 10 per cent more expensive to install. The process to produce the smoothest possibleretains all the charm of the era. There are long-term cost-efficiency of solar powerexcellent continental breakfast facilities (fruit, and satisfaction of using a renewable spirit. “Dasher + Fisher spirits are first andcereals, bread, fresh milk and juice etc), a energy source to power our business mademinibar and a comfortable queen bed in the solar the more attractive option.” Moores foremost ‘eating gins’, best tasted with foodgarden cottage, quality towels, free wifi and Hill Estate is at 3343 West Tamar Highway,windows that open to let in fresh air. Set in Sidmouth; phone (03) 6394 7649. and created with food in mind,” says Burgess.a quiet street but within walking distance to The gins, beautifully packaged and presented, are available from Southern Wild Distillery and online via www.southernwilddistillery.com. They retail for $90 for 700ml or a three-pack of 200ml bottles for the same price. Southern Wild is open seven days a week at 17 Fenton Way in the centre of Devonport. Also sample at Drink Co., Hobart’s hip new wine and spirits bar in Salamanca Place. Top left: Charles Oates Apple Brandy. Above: Dasher + Fisher Range of Gins. Opposite page top: Coast House private retreat. Opposite page bottom: Willie Smith’s Apple Cider Shed & Alembic Still. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 113

95 TASTED89 AWARDEDTA SM AN I AAn extremely high level of recommendations this time showing Arras Brut Elite Roaring Beachthat Tasmania has carved a niche for itself among the cool Tasmania Methode Tasmania Sparklingclimate varieties of pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay; even Traditionelle Cuvee NV HHHHpinot gris/grigio along with arguably Australia’s finest sparkling NV HHHH1/2 Nose shows hints ofwines. Very stylish aperitif apple and restrained type of sparkling with yeasty notes. Lovely interesting green red apple and rhubarb- pineapple characters like flavours on the on the nose and long, harmonious palate. elegant and beautifully $18 focussed palate withSPARKLING Arras Grand Vintage Arras Tasmania great interplay of fruit Spring Vale Salute Tasmania Methode Methode and yeast. $50 Freycinet Coast15 TASTED Traditionelle Traditionelle Rosé Heemskerk Sparkling13 AWARDED 2007 HHHHH 2006 HHHHH Tasmania 2015 HHHH Rich golden hues Both perfumed and Chardonnay Pinot A very attractive toastyAn outstanding class and restrained slatey toasty on the delightful Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 roasted cashew bouquetshowing that Tasmania lemon bouquet. The nose with a drier style A light golden wine that and great persistenceis the leading producer velvety palate has of palate that has smells like lemon curd. of simple sweet fruitof sparkling wines in great elegance and lovely complexity, good Excellent freshness to flavours that linger on.Australia. “Here we see finesse and has lovely structure and some the palate with slightlycomplexity and richness great figgy/apple-like green citrus-like fruit 3-5 $35without being forced,” flavour persistence. elements and good yeastcommented one judge. Granny Smith apple autolysis characters. Barringwood Classic“And this is achieved and citrus-like flavours. 5+ $83across the range of “Awesome!” 5+ Arras E.J. Carr 3-5 $60 Tasmania Cuvéedifferent styles.” Late Disgorged Chartley Estate 2013 HHHH $77 Tasmania Methode Lavinia Tasmania Lifted honeyed fruitRadenti Tasmania Traditionelle Pinot NoirChardonnay Pinot Arras Tasmania 2003 HHHHH Chardonnay aromas and lots ofNoir 2011 HHHHH Blanc de Blanc A rich toasty/figgy fruit 2010 HHHH1/2 stonefruit-like flavoursDelicious nose; “Smells 2007 HHHHH bouquet with loads of Lovely grilled nut-like with hints of pineapple.of freshly baked bread Appealing mix of glacé interest and complexity aromas mingle with Palate a touch sweet andand cut apples,” noted lemon, honey and and more of that lovely ripe citrus notes. Lovely toasty. 3-5 $45one judge. A rich palate brioche-like aromas with complexity evident nougat and lemonwith mouthfilling red a lovely complexity and on the fantastic nutty/ pudding flavours with Barringwoodfruit flavours showing length of rich toffee, fruited palate with a additional complexity Tasmania Methodesome Vegemite touches. roasted cashew and perfect acid balance. from time spent on cork. TraditionellePersistent finish. $60 citrussy flavours. Well NV HHH supported by the acidity. 5+ $170 3-5 $35 Hints of rose petals on the nose and a touch of 5+ $83 residual sugar on the ripe quince fruit palate. $32JUDGES Kiera O’Brien James Hordern Nick Glaetzer Winemaker for Wine Manager, Gasworks Winemaker/Owner of Tasmania. Previously Cellar door for the past Glaetzer/Dixon Family winemaker for Piper’s five years and on the Winemakers. Formerly Brook and Chandon in Vantage Group wine Winemaker at Frogmore the Yarra Valley. Judge panel. Formerly State Creek. Judge at Hobart at the Royal Hobart and Manager for the Wine Wine Show, International Royal Melbourne wine Company in Sydney Cool Climate Show, and shows. Also previously and panel judge for The Associate Judge at the a food and wine writer Wine Society. Tasmanian wine show. with Fairfax Media.114 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingHeemskerk Abel’s Drew Wines Coal Winter Brook Tamar Heemskerk Abel’s Emilia TasmaniaTempest Tasmania River Valley Riesling Valley Riesling Tempest Tasmania Pinot GrigioChardonnay Pinot 2014 HHHH1/2 NV HHH Pinot Gris 2016 HHHNoir NV HHH Quite Germanic in style “Colour suggests age.” 2016 HHHH1/2 Ripe pear aromas andBready lemon bouquet with its intense and Nose is big and toasty; Restrained aromas of a lovely slippery pearand a drier, green inviting toasty lime and the palate is rich, slightly dried pineapple-like palate. Has residualapple, aperitif style of orange aromas. Tastes of sweet and citrussy. characters with more sugar balanced bysparkling. $32 freshly squeezed citrus of those dried fruit acidity. 3-5 $26 fruit with a ‘good whack’ 3-5 $30 characters echoed onRIESLING, of slatey minerality. the palate that’s layeredGEWURZTRAMINER Glaetzer-Dixon with pear and aniseed Spring Vale& SCHONBURGER 5+ $22 Uberblanc Tasmania elements. $32 Freycinet Coast14 TASTED Riesling 2016 HHH Pinot Gris14 AWARDED Chartley Estate Boiled lolly aromas and Tasmanian Icon 2016 HHH Tasmania Riesling nicely textured palate. Tasmania Pinot Gris Bright golden hues, a 2016 HHHH Some residual sugar and 2015 HHHH1/2 perfumed pear bouquet Light lifted nose good phenolic balance. Intense green/gold and sweet tropical/pearVery strong class. smelling of lime jelly colour and perfumed flavours. Easy drinking“The secret here is the crystals! Good balance 3-5 $24 style. $28natural acid balance and of refreshing limeelegance across the marmalade flavours with Roaring 40’s tropical/lemonboard,” said one judge. slight greenish notes. Tasmania Riesling fragrances. Lengthy“Also good phenolics 2016 HHH palate, great texture SAUVIGNONand in some cases a 5+ $30 Restrained citrussy nose and good persistence BLANCnicely balanced touch of and fuller, richer style of mouthfilling citrussyresidual sweetness.” Spring Vale palate. Nice weight of flavours. 3-5 8 TASTED Freycinet Coast lemon curd flavours. $19 7 AWARDED 5+ $27 Gewurztraminer 2016 HHHH Bay of Fires An enticing perfumed Freycinet Vineyard Eddystone Point Solid wines; excellent lychee/rose water Tasmania Riesling Tasmania Pinot Gris examples of the vintageThird Child 3 Tea bouquet with lychee-like 2016 HHH 2016 HHHH and the variety. “WatchTree Ella Mae flavours dominating a Pretty perfumed A bright, juicy and out Marlborough,”Tasmania Riesling palate that has a high level bouquet and excellent refreshing style with quipped one judge.2014 HHHHH of acidity. 3-5 $28 focus and persistence of perfumed pear-likeIntense green tinged varietal flavours. Lots of varietal fruit characters Bream Creekcolour with rich lime oil Gala Estate interest. $32 and attractive line of Tasmaniaaromas. Fuller richer Tasmania Riesling minerally elements. $25 Sauvignon Blancstyle of palate that has 2016 HHHH White Rock Vineyard 2016 HHHH1/2persistence, length and Musky perfumed Tasmania Riesling Barringwood Intense green/gold huesgood line of flavours elements to the nose and 2015 HHH Tasmania Pinot Gris and appealing varietalreminiscent of freshly good presence, length Subdued aromas with 2016 HHHH aromas of gooseberries,squeezed limes. and persistence of the some development. A classic gris style with snow peas and hint of slatey lime-like varietal Simple but pleasant perfumed aromas laced mint which is all echoed 5+ $25 with pear drops and on the slightly sweet baked apples. Good palate. Good flavourBream Creek flavours. 5+ $30 palate. Great sweet/acid presence of spicy fruit profile. $28Tasmania Riesling balance. 3-5 $27 on the fresh palate. $322016 HHHH1/2 Devil’s Corner Gala EstateEstery floral fragrances Tasmania Riesling Tasmania Sauvignonand a pretty citrus palate 2015 HHHH PINOT GRIS/ Blanc 2016 HHHHthat is delicate and Germanic in style with GRIGIO Bangor Jimmy’s Hill Grassy, green herbsimple with texture and a slight slatey/minerally Tasmania Pinot Gris bouquet with apersistence and some citrus bouquet and light 10 TASTED 2016 HHH1/2 passionfruit note. Lovelyresidual sweetness toned lime-like fruit The nose smells a little of light fresh varietalbalanced by racy acidity. 9 AWARDED tinned pineapple with a characters on the well good length and mouthful balanced, slightly drying, 5+ $28 flavours on the soft, of baked pear-like flavours. palate. $30 gentle palate. 5+ $20 Excellent class of 3-5 $30 Roaring Beach varietal flavours with Tasmania SauvignonBay of Fires Barringwood “creeping sweetness” Blanc 2015 HHHHEddystone Point Tasmania the only concern Developing tropical/appleTasmania Riesling Schonburger according to one judge. Emilia Tasmania aromas and very ripe,2015 HHHH1/2 2016 HHH1/2 Pinot Grigio simple palate with ripeIntense and evolved A light refreshing style 2015 HHH1/2 canned vegetable andtropical fruit characters with floral perfumed White Rock Vineyard Simple style. Slightly corn-like flavour profile. fragrances and silky Tasmania Pinot Gris subdued developedon the nose; some smooth palate. Aniseed 2016 HHHH1/2 aromas and a rounded 3-5 $18citrussy elements. Bold notes and good acidity. pear dominated palatelime/orange fruit flavours Bright green tinged wine with some phenolics. $26 5+ $28 with nice spicy/floralon the bigger style aromatics. Has a lengthypalate. Nice balance andlength. 5+ $25 palate with some pleasant and delicate pear flavours on the mid- palate. Has length and balance. 3-5 $27 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 115

TA S M A N I AThicket Hill Freycinet Vineyard Spring Vale Pages Creek Estate Bay of FiresTasmania Sauvignon Tasmania Freycinet Coast Tasmania Pinot Eddystone PointBlanc 2015 HHHH Chardonnay Chardonnay Rosé 2013 HHH Tasmania Pinot NoirBright wine with aromas 2015 HHHH1/2 2015 HHHH Sweet simple style 2015 HHHH1/2of snow peas and “An easy summery style,” Slightly honeyed fruit/ with good varietal Rich red fruitpassionfruit and intense said one judge. Big oak oak aromas and a simple fruit characters of fragrances with toastyvarietal flavours. Some influence on the nose lightweight tropical/citrus strawberries and some oak to support andresidual sugar with with attractive fig and fruit palate, nice oak and dried apple notes. $26 hints of eucalypt.balancing acidity. $17 tinned peach aromas. tight acidity. A good wine. Rich dark fruit on theBay of Fires Ripe complex palate PINOT NOIR silky smooth palate.Eddystone Point tasting of spicy baked 5+ $45 2016-2015 A nice style, simpleTasmania Sauvignon apricots. 5+ $45 but delicious and veryBlanc 2016 HHH1/2 Bream Creek 17 TASTED more-ish. 5+ $35Restrained tropical Heemskerk Coal Tasmania 17 AWARDEDbouquet with a light oaky River Valley Chardonnay Bay of Firestouch. Solid palate, good Chardonnay 2015 HHH1/2 Very strong and Southern Tasmaniavarietal/sherbety fruit 2015 HHHH1/2 Rich fruit/oak consistent class! “Great Pinot Noirflavour persistence. $25 Very bright green/gold integration on the elegance and varietal 2015 HHHH1/2Chartley Estate East colours and lovely ripe nose. Lovely definition, characters here,” noted Attractive raspberry andCoast Tasmania nectarine/oak aromas freshness and quality one judge. “Great to cream nose - great fruit;Sauvignon Blanc with rich stonefruit of stonefruit-like see no dry reds in this great oak. Excellent2016 HHH1/2 flavours and some varietal flavours. line-up!” raspberry fruit flavourFragrances reminiscent grapefruit elements with presence on the fresh,of lemon barley water well-handled spicy oak 5+ $34 vibrant and enticingwith simple sweet characters. $50 palate. Very more-ish.tropical fruit flavours and Dalrymple Pipersfresh clean acidity. $26 Moorilla Muse River Cave 5+ $45Wineglass Bay Tasmania Clock TasmaniaTasmania Sauvignon Chardonnay Chardonnay Derwent Estate Chartley EstateBlanc 2016 HHH 2011 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot NoirHighly perfumed Mealy figgy fragrances Syrupy lemon fragrances 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHH1/2honeyed aromas and showing nice secondary with balancing oak. Dark dense wine. Vibrant crimson winesweet palate with development. Generous Simple stonefruit Combination of citrus with unusual light cherryquality varietal fruit lemon, melon rind and palate; starts sweet and rind, floral and coffee chocolate liqueur-likeflavours. $19 grapefruit flavour profile finishes grippy. $38 aromas with green fragrances. Interesting on the long, weighty and stalky notes. Chewy complex palate with nicely textured palate. ROSÉ sweet red and black fruit lots of oak to balance flavour concentration the sweet varietal fruit. 5+ $65 5 TASTED on the lusciously rich 4 AWARDED palate. 5+ $39 5+ $29CHARDONNAY Josef Chromy A small class of nicely Stefano Lubiana Home Hill Kelly’s Pepik Tasmania dry, easy drinking, pinot Reserve Southern11 TASTED Chardonnay predominant, rosés. Tasmania Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot Noir10 AWARDED 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHH 2016 HHHH Gala Estate Dense crimson Big inky fruit-drivenA very solid group Subdued nose with hints Tasmania Pinot nose and lovely silkyof classic cool of lees and nectarines Rosé 2016 HHHH wine with distinctive smooth palate withclimate chardonnays. Very dry savoury style. Burgundy-like aromas. powerful sweet red“Consistent richness of and lengthy persistence Fresh strawberry Weighty spicy oak/dark cherry varietal fruit andfruit seen throughout of ripe pear and melon ripeness on the nose and chocolaty coffee notes.the entire class,” said flavours. Good acid quality plum skin/rosehip- fruit palate layered withone judge. like fruit on the palate. interesting characters of 3-5 $60 backbone. 5+ $38 Good phenolics. $30 cloves, cinnamon andBay of FiresTasmania Barringwood Pipers Brook cherries. 5+ $34Chardonnay Tasmania Vineyard Ninth2015 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay Island Tasmania Bangor Captain Roaring 40’sA rich old fashioned 2016 HHHH Rosé 2016 HHH1/2 Spotswood Tasmania Pinot Noirstyle. Big buttery Creamy oak nose rich Fragrances of Tasmania Pinot Noir 2015 HHHHbouquet with toasty with stonefruit. Lovely strawberries and 2015 HHHH1/2 Slightly raisinedtouches and a powerful generous varietal fruit rhubarb. Dry strawberry Dark plum and rich characters to the darkcomplex buttery palate palate with nicely and cream palate with cherry bouquet with cherry nose; hint ofwith rich fruit seamlessly handled spicy oak and some complexity and hints of oak and some mint. Generous red fruitintegrated with the oak. slightly grippy finish. good acidity. $24 clove-like notes. Silky on the well-structured blackberry palate, palate layered with oak. 5+ $45 5+ $34 Maclean Bay concentrated and firm Tasmania Rosé with a high level of 5+ $27 2016 HHH acidity. $30 Heemskerk Abel’s Pale pink wine smelling Emilia Tasmania Tempest Tasmania of fresh strawberries Pinot Noir Chardonnay with soft simple berry 2015 HHHH 2015 HHHH flavours on a dry savoury Cedary, new ‘splinty’ Lightly coloured wine palate. $24 oak aromas with a with restrained grassy lengthy oak-driven bouquet and fruity palate layered with notes. Tight, simple sweet rich varietal fruit green fruit varietal palate and some medicinal that’s long and clean. notes. 3-5 $36 5+ $32116 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

TASMANIANSPECIAL MIXED DOZENBuy Tasmanian Wine ONLINEFollowing the blind judging of wines by the Winestatepanel, these wines have been chosen for quality,value, diversity and interest.$ 379 House of Arras Rosé Sparkling Bangor Jimmy’s Hill Pinot Gris Bream Creek Pinot Noir Springvale Gewurztraminer White Rock Pinot Gris Freycinet Vineyard Chardonnay Maclean Bay Pinot Noir Barringwood Park Chardonnay Gala Estate Pinot Rosé Emilia Pinot Noir Roaring Beach Pinot Noir Riversdale Estate Syrah 3 7 9$ 12 bottles for plus FREE delivery Australia wide offer ends: 03.09.17Note: Winestate does not sell wine nor does it receive commission for this or any other sales recommendations gasworkscellardoor.com.au 20% discount gasworkscellardoor.com.au Use code: WINTERWINES offer ends: 03.09.17 Discount applied when you purchase 6 bottles or more. Does not apply to above mixed dozen offer and cannot be used with any other discounts or offers.

TA S M A N I ASpring Vale Freycinet Vineyard Kate Hill Tasmania Freycinet Estate SWEETFreycinet Coast Southern Tasmania Pinot Noir Louisa Tasmania WHITESPinot Noir Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Merlot2015 HHHH 2015 HHH1/2 An interesting style 2013 HHHH 3 TASTEDElegant restrained Pleasant perfumed of pinot with a pretty Inky blackcurrant 3 AWARDEDminty/dark cherry aromas and velvety chocolaty nose with a aromas; lots of oakbouquet and silky smooth in the mouth perfumed lift. The oak- sitting on top. Intense Nice sweeties for lunch!brambly/rose hip palate with slightly greener driven palate has silky ripe plum/raspberrywith some funky notes. fruit flavours and chewy smooth fruit, chocolaty fruit flavours and some Waterton TasmaniaGood buildup of tannins. tannins. $70 tannins and some decent smoky oak notes. Botrytis Riesling acidity. 3-5 $42 2010 HHHH 3-5 $45 Barringwood Estate 5+ $40 Perfumed apricot/ Tasmania Pinot Noir honeyed nose.Maclean Bay 2016 HHH Thicket Hill Riversdale Estate Long, thick, intenseTasmania Pinot Noir Smoky, strawberry/ Tasmania Pinot Noir Tasmania Syrah palate. Plenty of2015 HHH1/2 cherry fragrances with 2014 HHHH 2016 HHH1/2 attractive varietal fruitDark densely coloured fresh strawberry-like Dense dark garnet-like Deep purple wine with flavours. Nice level ofwine with brambly flavours and firm acidity. wine with some lovely a vibrant, fresh crushed sweetness. $25herbal aromas and stemmy plum-like varietal berry bouquet andslightly greener fruit 3-5 $34 fruit, good supporting lovely freshness of juicy Spring Valepalate. Nicely handled oak and big ripe tannins. blackberry flavours. $40 Louisa Freycinetoak. $33 PINOT NOIR Coast Sticky 2014 & OLDER 5+ $22 White Rock Vineyard Gewurztraminer Tasmania Dornfelder 2016 (375ml)Roaring Beach 6 TASTED Bream Creek 2015 HHH1/2 HHH1/2Tasmania Pinot Noir 6 AWARDED Tasmania Pinot Noir Floral and peppery on Appealing lychee/rose2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHHH the nose and silky fresh petal bouquet and ripeLovely plum fruit/oak Bigger style of pinots Dense oak-driven palate with unforced, spicy fruit flavours onnose and nice grainy here than the 2015s aromas; some nice mildly spicy, flavours. A the nicely balancedtexture to the palate offering age worthy dark fruit underneath. pleasant quaffer. $27 palate. “Good fun!”with red fruit flavours possibilities. Attractive oak andand some herbal ripe cherry fruit on the 3-5 $22elements. 3-5 palate with cola-like Bream Creek$18 complexity. $37 Tasmania Cabernet Gala Estate East Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 Coast TasmaniaHeemskerk Gala Estate Reserve Simple style with rich Late HarvestSouthern Tasmania East Coast Tasmania jubey raspberry and Riesling 2016 HHHPinot Noir Pinot Noir black fruit aromas and Fragrant citrussy notes2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHHH ripe fruit flavours. Some to the nose with aSubdued Chocolaty Restrained, slightly leathery aged notes. sweet, simple butplum nose with porty-like aromas with persistent citrussyperfumed notes. a lean, savoury, blue 5+ $34 palate. Nice acidity. fruit/herbal palate. GoodAttractive, but simple, acid length and some Pages Creek Estate 5+ $35oaky palate with good astringency. $45 Tasmania Merlotfruit underneath. A good 2013 HHHdrink! 5+ $49.99 A simple, pleasant, well Glaetzer-Dixon made and fault freeWhite Rock Vineyard Reveur Tasmania merlot with good tanninTasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir structure. 3-5 $262015 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2Subtle confectionery A dark and inky oak Clarence Housedark cherry fruit aromas dominated nose; some Estate Tasmaniaand bright cherry fruit fruit behind and a big, Merlot 2011 HHHon the long balanced ripe, plum/coffee palate Some blackberries onpalate. Great acidity! with drying tannins. $26 the nose and lengthy savoury fruit palate 3-5 $27 well supported by theHeemskerk Abel’s OTHER DRY tannins. 3-5 $28Tempest Southern REDSTasmania Pinot Noir Bream Creek2015 HHH1/2 Tasmania Pinot Noir 6 TASTEDRed fruit characters 2013 HHHHHon the nose with Great concentration 6 AWARDEDcoffee notes. Pleasantvarietal palate; tight of dark cherry fruitand slightly astringent. fragrances with aSweet finish. $60 slight stalky green “A shopping basket of edge. Generous plum wines,” commented fruit flavours on the one judge. A solid lengthy palate. Good interesting group. complexity here but still fresh and lithe. Potential! 5+ $37118 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINSOUTH ISLAND (NELSON & CANTERBURY)ALPINE ATTRACTION bedrooms and two bathrooms and is nestled mushrooms and the truffles we get.” This ultra- in native bush by a stream. Montrose is luxe lodge features two luxurious suites in theCANTERBURY has a new luxury alpine retreat managed by husband and wife team Robert main lodge and a very private two-bedroom,with the opening of spectacular Montrose and Jane Lavery, who have lived on the two-bathroom garden cottage. All suites areEstate on the Rakaia River at the foot of Rakaia for over 20 years and are passionate airconditioned, with pure Irish linen sheets andthe Southern Alps. Montrose’s three luxury and knowledgeable about every aspect of luxury toiletries. Well-stocked refrigerators,self-contained villas sit on 260ha in a private the estate. Montrose Estate, 592 Blackford Sky televisions and wireless internet are allvalley beside a 5-ha spring-fed lake with Rd, Mount Hutt; phone +64 3302 8440 or visit included in the tariff. The landscaped gardens2km of Rakaia River frontage. The estate is www.montroseestate.co.nz. are large and there are several courtyardan hour’s drive or a short helicopter journey areas providing additional places to eat, drinkfrom Christchurch Airport and a 10-minute RECREATING CHILDHOOD and relax. The gardens are a cool oasis indrive from Methven township. Nick Lambert, EXPERIENCES the summer, while open fires throughout theMontrose owners’ representative, says the lodge give warmth and atmosphere in winter.retreat is perfect for travellers who want to EDENHOUSE is billed as a “six-star” luxury Breakfast is included in the tariff. Nearly allbreak their South Island trip on their way to lodge in the Nelson/Abel Tasman region. guests choose to eat dinner at Edenhouse andor from Queenstown, or for Christchurch Co-owner Bobbie Martin says it is aimed at fresh produce, including organic, is alwaysvisitors wanting a short break. Located at the re-creating the experiences of her childhood. available. Fine local wines are included infoot of Mount Hutt ski field, it is an ideal base “All the wonderful fresh produce we grew the dinner tariff as are pre-dinner drinks andfor skiers during winter. “Montrose Estate’s up with and took for granted lies at the canapes. Edenhouse, Orinoco Valley, 213private self-contained experience is a gem in heart of the food experience guests can Thorpe-Orinoco Rd, Ngatimoti; phone +64the South Island high country,” he says. “It is a expect,” she says. “Every weekend we’d 3-526 8174 or visit www.edenhouse.co.nz.stunning base for relaxation and exhilaration go to my grandparents. They both hadin outstanding natural landscapes. Everything beautiful gardens and you’d anticipate FINO BOUNCES BACKis on the doorstep, from winter skiing, to fly your grandmother’s freshly baked Grannyfishing, clay-bird shooting, horse riding, golf Smith apple pie, or the other grandmother’s BEST Western Fino Suites in Christchurchand jet-boating, plus excellent food and wine raspberry jam. What I wanted to do here was is back in operation after a $15-million post-trails.” Montrose Estate can accommodate just create the same thing for our guests.” earthquake renovation and a new brandingfrom two to 20 people in style, with spa Doing so involves harnessing the produce after becoming the first Best Western Plusbaths, open fire places, free wi-fi and Sky from Edenhouse’s own extensive gardens and property in New Zealand. General managerTV just some of the luxuries. Hoturoa, the other delicacies from local artisan producers Dilan De Silva said Fino now targets corporateowners’ retreat, is an elegant, modern four- to create daily-changing menus. “A lot of it travellers as well as leisure seekers. “Webedroom home, with two living rooms and comes from our garden, a lot of it comes from wanted to partner with a global powerhousetwo bathrooms. Paewaka, the original house, specialists who grow things just for us, like that can help us build our corporate businessis a beautiful two-storey, three-bedroom wood delicious beans or blueberries or strawberries base,” he said. “Best Western has a strongand stone dwelling. The chalet, Teata, has two or persimmons or the saffron milk-cap corporate presence supported by an excellent loyalty program, which appealed to us, and we had no hesitation in joining the network.” Once known for its roadside motels, Best Western continues to evolve its strict minimum standards and now boasts a modern portfolio of 150 properties across Australia, New Zealand & the South Pacific. All Best Western properties now offer free high-speed internet and healthy breakfasts and Fino Hotel and Suites is in a great location opposite the Christchurch Town Hall and Casino. It is also a pet-friendly hotel with three rooms dedicated for people with animal companions. Visit www.bestwestern.co.nz.120 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

travelbriefsINTO THE VALLEY and permaculture. Their property, known Christchurch International Airport and is as The Food Farm, includes chickens, aimed at providing low-cost and short-WINE-LOVING visitors to Christchurch need ducks, pigs and a milking cow, as well as stay accommodation. The self-containedto allow time for an excursion to the Waipara abundant fruit and vegetable crops - “the accommodation capsules or pods featureValley, a small region in North Canterbury that food forest”. Accommodation options in the beds, storage lockers, a power supply and wifiis fast becoming one of New Zealand’s leading region include Teviot View, with apartment- connectivity. Jucy Snooze utilises technologywine and food regions. style accommodation in the heart of Amberley; to allow customers to self-check in and out - Dry Paddocks Country Retreat for five-star either by smartphone or a specially designed Just off the main road south between boutique bed and breakfast accommodation; kiosk, avoiding queues.Marlborough (NZ’s biggest wine producing The Shearers’ Cottage, a renovated formerregion) and Christchurch (the South Island’s cottage at Limestone Hills Farm, and Annie’s Jucy CEO Tim Alpe says there has alreadymain city), Waipara is Maori for “muddy Loft & Studio,“luxury vineyard accommodation been strong interest in the accommodation.waters”. It now has a growing reputation for in a charming renovated homestead at “We set about challenging the traditionalaward-winning wines and a flourishing organic Waipara River Estate”. service model of hostels, completelyfood movement. Among the “must visit” redesigning it to remove the barriers guestsdestinations: Greystone & Muddy Water - Nik MAKE TIME TO SOCIALISE commonly encounter. In one example, ourMavromatis, general manager of Greystone research found that hotels were inadvertentlyand Muddy Water Wines, is enthusiastic about COCKTAIL lovers who find themselves in causing bottlenecks for their reception staffthe geology of the region and believes grapes Christchurch should check out The Poplar by forcing guests to leave at the same time.grown here can produce some of the best Social Club’s Rogue Gin Clover Club. Dux “Any time when customers need to queue towines in the world. As well as pinot noir and Central has re-energised Christchurch’s inner pay their bill creates the potential for customerriesling, the two wineries produce sauvignon city with a cluster of themed restaurants and satisfaction to be diminished. We wantedblanc, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, chardonnay bars, cool reincarnations of the legendary the first and last impression our guests haveand syrah - all grown organically. Brew Moon Dux de Lux in the Arts Centre, which was lost to be one of efficiency and convenience.”- Belinda Gould worked as a winemaker to the earthquake. The newest baby on the Visitors will be able to socialise and sharebefore setting up Brew Moon craft brewery block, Poplar Social Club, is a modern twist communal spaces such as the general usein 2002. The taproom and restaurant features on the old speakeasy, dedicated to the craft lounges, with hot desks provided for casualstreet art by local graffiti artist Wongi Wilson, of the cocktail. Guests can sit in a leather web browsing. The Jucy Snooze pod pricesand Gould has a passion for sustainability. booth and sup on Charles Gillet’s Rogue start at $39 and a second facility is due toWood-fired pizzas are also on the menu. Gin White Lady cocktail. Watch out, too, for open in Queenstown. 5 Peter Leeming Rd,Pegasus Bay - Established 30 years ago by edible flowers. Open Wednesday to Sunday Christchurch Airport, phone +64 800 427 736Ivan Donaldson and his family, Pegasus Bay from 5pm until late. Also new in Christchurch or visit www.jucysnooze.co.nz. winery features beautiful landscaped gardens is New Zealand’s first indigenous cafe andand an eye-catching restaurant. Riesling and cookery school, Kakano, which translates Above top: The team from Brew Moon brewery.pinot noir are the main wines, while others to “seed” in Maori. The food and drinks are Below: Juicy Snooze pod accommodation.include sauvignon blanc and semillon, crafted with ingredients traditionally used in Opposite page top: Best Western Fino suites.chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Maori dishes, with many plants and herbs Opposite page left: Montrose Estate luxury villas.The restaurant is a regular national award growing from heritage seed varieties, resultingwinner. Black Estate - With panoramic views in a menu unlike anything else currently in NZ.westward over the valley, Black Estate winery, Jade Temepara, who owns the cafe, has atasting room and restaurant are housed in background in helping young mothers to learna distinctive contemporary black “shed”. to grow their own vegetable patches and hasThe winery produces pinot noir, cabernet a true passion for traditional Maori flavours.franc and chenin blanc grapes, and hasbeen recognised for its chardonnay. Owners GROWING DEMAND FOR PODSPenny Naish and Nicholas Brown produceentirely organic wines and food. Food Farm NEW Zealand’s first “micro accommodation”tours - Energetic farmers and winemakers, concept was launched by tourism operatorAngela Clifford and her Australian husband Jucy last November. The pod-style hostelNick Gill, share a passion for organic farming features 271 beds just minutes from the July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 121

WAIRARAPA, NELSON & C ANTERBURY37 TASTED31 AWARDEDSOUTH ISLAND(NELSON & C ANTERBURY)As you’d expect from two regions as diverse as Canterbury and Brightwater Lord Terrace Edge PinotNelson, this tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties but two Rutherford Barrique Gris 2016 HHHH1/2really stood out. Riesling seems to thrive in the South Island’s cool Sauvignon Blanc Powerful ripe pear,climate to produce dynamic wines with real drive whilst the pinot 2016 HHHH1/2 golden peach and bakednoirs continue to show, with each passing vintage and resulting vine Oaked sauvignon blanc apple aromas leadage, more regional character and depth of flavour. Whilst the judges can be a difficult style to an opulent palatewere captivated by the best wines from both regions, there was a to get right. This wine where a good degree offeeling that, if this tasting was a good barometer of the styles being succeeds; the ripe sweetness fleshes outproduced, pinot gris and chardonnay could be a little more exciting. citrussy palate is richly the flavour. A flamboyant, textured with some generously fruited pinotPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in leesy, oak notes adding gris. $25export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). interest. A distinctive Greystone Sand wine. $30 Dollar Pinot GrisSAUVIGNON Greenhough Pegasus Bay 2016 HHH1/2BLANC Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Semillon Left Field Nelson An understated, 2016 HHHHH 2015 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc attractively textured7 TASTED A really delightful This wine created plenty 2016 HHH1/2 wine that has flavours5 AWARDED sauvignon blanc. Aromas of discussion. Red Youthful white peach of poached red apple of jalapeno chilli, freshly grapefruit, kaffir lime and passionfruit and pear with a hintMarlborough produces mown grass and red leaf and fresh soft green aromas. An appealing, of biscuity complexitythe lion’s share of NZ capsicum are heady yet herbs sit alongside easy drinking style of woven through. Dry andsauvignon blanc so it the wine still retains a pungent gunflint, struck sauvignon with plenty defined. $29is easy to overlook the degree of subtlety. The match and smoky notes of bright and juicy fresh Brightwaterrange of styles made palate has concentration fusing together to create fruit. $18 Nelson Pinot Griselsewhere in New but again there is a a powerfully flavoured 2016 HHHZealand. From delicate lightness of touch. wine. Semillon gives Brightwater Uncomplicated aromasand fresh through to Dry and crisp with a a smoky richness mid- Lord Rutherford of red apple and bakedbarrel fermented and lingering, persistent palate leading to a long Sauvignon Blanc pear. Though the palatecomplex this flight finish. $23 and sustained finish. 2016 HHH starts out with a hint ofshowed that attentive With a few years bottle Youthful aromas of sweetness, it finishesNelson and Canterbury age, this will evolve white blossom, freshly crisply. $22winemakers have a deft into an intricate, layered squeezed lime and green Thornburyhand with this flagship wine. $31 apple. Attractive fleshy Waipara Pinot Grisvariety. palate lifted by citrus, 2016 HHH juicy acidity. $25 A straightforward crisp style of pinot gris that PINOT GRIS has a nice thread of acidity running through 6 TASTED lifting the flavours. 4 AWARDED Bright, fresh and excellent value. $15 A solid, rather than exciting bracket of wines.JUDGES Jane Skilton MW Emma Jenkins MW Rebecca Deed PhD Winestate’s New Zealand Emma became an After completing her editor has worked in the MW in 2011. A regular thesis on the effects wine trade for 33 years, columnist for wine of low temperature 24 of those as a Master of publications in NZ fermentation on Wine. She runs NZSWS, a and the UK, she is a wine yeast, Rebecca wine education school, and senior judge at wine now lectures at judges wine competitions competitions in New the University of both at home and Zealand, Australia and Auckland. WSET the UK. qualified, she enjoys internationally. wine show judging.122 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingOTHER Thornbury Waipara Pegasus Bay Bel Greenhough ROSÉWHITES Riesling 2016 HHHH Canto Dry Riesling Hope Vineyard Fragrant white blossom 2015 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 1 TASTED2 TASTED and fresh green apple A little bottle age has 2015 HHH1/2 1 AWARDED2 AWARDED aromas. Quite sweet allowed some secondary Peach and white on the palate, this is notes of toast and nectarine fruit aromas, BrightwaterTerrace Edge a bright fleshy style smoke to emerge which some cinnamon and Sophies Kiss RoséAlbarino of riesling, full of sit well alongside fresh nutmeg new oak and 2016 HHH1/22016 HHHH rockmelon and peach lemon sorbet and kaffir a tight linear palate Summer pudding andVery perfumed, almost flavours. Finishes crisply. lime aromas. A bold, combine to give a fresh strawberries;muscat notes combine $15 dry style of riesling satisfying, appealing an appealing,with lemon peel and Greystone Sea Star with excellent depth of chardonnay. $36 uncomplicated off-drylime. The palate has a Riesling 2016 HHHH flavour. $35 Muddy Water rosé with enough depthchalky texture and the An interesting take on Chardonnay to keep the drinkercrisp acidity is firm and riesling and a wine that Brightwater 2015 HHH1/2 engaged. $22carries through to the needs time to reveal Nelson Riesling An understatedfinish. $25 its personality. It slowly 2016 HHH1/2 chardonnay with stone- PINOT NOIR opens up in the glass Pretty, delicate aromas fruit and red appleGreenhough Hope and reveals white peach of cucumber, lemon flavours to the fore and 7 TASTEDVineyard Pinot and satsuma flavours. A and lime. A tight, just a touch of biscuity 7 AWARDEDBlanc 2015 HHH1/2 textural wine that builds steelier style of riesling complexity. There is oakAn unusual wine that across the palate. $27 that $20 but it is restrained and A very exciting bracketcaught our eye. Yellow Pegasus Bay does not overtake the of wines. We debatedplum and quince with a Riesling Terrace Edge Liquid palate. $40 these wines at lengthtouch of melted butter. 2015 HHHH1/2 Geography Riesling Brightwater and re-tasted all the topTextural and powerfully A complex riesling that 2016 HHH Nelson Chardonnay scoring wines a secondflavoured with excellent has talcum powder, Noticeable sweetness 2015 HHH1/2 time to ensure we hadlength. $32 citrus peel and freshly married to some white Lots of interest here; done each wine justice. squeezed lime aromas nectarine and quince peaches and cream styleRIESLING to the fore with a little fruit gives a generous, of chardonnay with a Brightwater toast and marmamlade fleshy wine. $19.50 little sizzling butter and Nelson Pinot Noir7 TASTED too. A sweeter style hazelnut. Nice line of 2015 HHHHH7 AWARDED beautifully balanced with Muddy Water James acidity keeps the wine in Savoury notes of mouthwatering acidity. Hardwick Riesling check. Good length. $28 cinnamon and nutmeg sitA lovely flight that Great length. $30 2015 HHH Greystone alongside those of brightshowed a range of Lifted aromas of Chardonnay red berry and cherry fruit.winemaking styles, blossom, lime and 2015 HHH There is real density andfrom bone dry through sweet pea are pretty and An appealing, bright weight on the palateto medium sweet. All delicate. The palate has style of chardonnay. but the wine is keptthe wines showed some sweetness with Not too oaky but has beautifully in balancebrightness and vitality of rapier-like acidity keeping interest and complexity by the line of acidity.character and although the palate lifted and on the palate. Attractive Excellent length. $35all could be drunk now, poised. $30 now. $40the best would repaycareful cellaring. CHARDONNAY 5 TASTED 4 AWARDED A reliable rather than STAR RATINGS  exciting range of wines that showed upfront Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of ripe, silky stone fruit excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. flavours in preference All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry to the hand of the professionals and are compared in peer winemaker. classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 143. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 123

NELSON & CANTERBURY Greenhough Pinot Pegasus Bay Main Noir 2015 HHHHH Divide Pinot Noir GANTLEYS RESTAURANT A little shy at first, but 2014 HHH opened up to reveal Time in bottle has allowed GANTLEYS RESTAURANT wild raspberry and red some secondary notes Queenstown, New Zealand cherry fruit notes. An of game and leather start P: +64 3 442 8999 | F: +64 3 442 7007 interesting wine that to appear alongside the wasn’t immediately red cherry and plum fruit. E: [email protected] forthcoming but built in Still a bite of tannin in the www.gantleys.co.nz interest and complexity palate, but drinking well LOWBURN FERRY WINES the longer it sat in now. $35 Central Otago, New Zealand the glass. Excellent P: +64 3 445 0846 concentration and OTHER REDS E: [email protected] length. $30 www.lowburnferry.co.nz Terrace Edge Pinot 2 TASTED Noir 2015 HHHH 2 AWARDED A bold take on pinot noir; dark fruits of the Pegasus Bay forest and a touch of Merlot Cabernet rose petal too. A chewy, 2013 HHHHH savoury palate with a Delightful aromas of firm line of tannin. Great green capsicum and depth of flavour. $30 fresh blackcurrant hint at Greystone Pinot the addition of cabernet Noir 2015 HHHH sauvignon which, A fleshy dense pinot combined with graphite, noir with a delightful black plum and juicy highly aromatic profile; redcurrant, is immensely creamy new oak adds appealing. Finely judged a subtle layer to the powdery tannins support concentrated palate. the palate. Excellent Delightful now. $45 length. $31.50 Muddy Water Pinot Terrace Edge Syrah Noir 2015 HHH1/2 2015 HHHH Ripe and savoury with No doubt this is syrah; plenty of dark berry and immensely peppery with red cherry fruit offset by some blueberry and a background of savoury lavender underneath. tannin. Appealing and Densely fruited, and fleshy. $45 though firm tannins sit in Greenhough Hope the background there is Vineyard 2015 HHH a silky drinkability to the On the day this wine wine. $31 wasn’t as engaging as the regular label, appearing slightly more brooding and buttoned down. There is concentration and depth and no doubt it will blossom with time in bottle. $46124 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingJ A N E S K I LTO N MWIt would be hard to imagine a more eclectic group of recent releases;  Brancott Estatefragrant aromatics, serious dry whites and delicious, age-worthy reds. Letter Series T PinotThe top scoring wines, an outstanding vintage Marlborough methode Spy Valley Envoy Noir 2016 HHHHtraditionelle and a bewitching Waipara riesling showcase New Johnson Vineyard A big, bold style of pinotZealand’s flair for vividly fruited white wines. But the strong scores Gewurztraminer noir with concentratedawarded to pinot noir, syrah and cabernet merlot are a great reminder 2016 HHHH damson, blueberryof New Zealand’s adept hand with medium bodied reds too. Concentrated and and black cherry fruit. powerfully perfumed This is a serious winePrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in with talcum powder, that has a noticeableexport markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). lychee and musk line of tannin providing aromas. A super sweet, structure. Would be ½ Sacred Hill Reserve late harvest style full better with a few years Hawkes Bay Syrah of bourbon rose petal in the cellar. $26.50Deutz Marlborough Jackson Estate 2016 HHHH1/2 and Turkish delight Sacred Hill HaloCuvee Blanc de Vintage Widow A big wine with bold flavours just managing Hawkes BayBlanc 2014 HHHHH Pinot Noir flavours of black cherry, to walk the right side of Merlot CabernetFrom 100% chardonnay, 2014 HHHH1/2 plum and damson. A flamboyant. Hedonistic 2015 HHHHthis delightful single Starting to show a little touch of cracked pepper and delightful. $32 Very opulent, supervintage wine is elegant bottle development with too. There is quite a bit Brancott Estate ripe style with bramble,and poised. Strong some secondary notes of tannin but it is ripe Letter Series O blueberry and blackautolytic characters of of wild mushroom, and integrates well with Chardonnay cherry flavours. Therenougat, fresh pastry game and forest the fruit. Needs a little 2016 HHHH is quite a bit of oak butcrust and brioche floor moving in to sit time in bottle to show at A moderately complex more than enough fruitcombine with lemon and alongside the bright its best. $30 chardonnay that has ruby density to support. Ared apple notes to create red cherry fruit. There Church Road grapefruit, red apple and long sustained finisha complex, dry wine is a little tannin in the McDonald Series nectarine fruit flavours suggests this wine willwith great persistence background providing Hawkes Bay Syrah supported by cinnamon cellar well. $28of flavour and superb structure. Appealing 2015 HHHH1/2 and biscuit oak. There is Sacred Hill Halolength. Excellent! $33 now though no hurry to There was plenty of a definite smoky, struck Hawkes BayBrancott Estate drink. $35 discussion over this match note to the wine. Syrah 2016 HHHHWaipara Riesling wine. It is very dense; For those that like this Pretty lifted aromatics;2016 HHHHH super ripe black fruits modern flinty style of black pepper, damsonTruly delightful edging towards the chardonnay, this is a and lavender. There areexpression of riesling; plummy, fruitcake great buy. $26.50 layers of oak and tanninpiercing notes of spectrum. A big, full Brancott Estate but both are well judgedtangerine, fresh lime and throttle powerful palate Letter Series creating a mediumwhite blossom coupled packed with fruit, oak Marlborough B Late bodied appealing stylewith knife edge acidity and tannin. A take no Harvest Sauvignon of syrah that retainscreate a charming, off prisoners style that Blanc 2014 HHHH a supple, generousdry wine. Although it really needs time to be A sweeter style of character. $30would cellar well, it is at its best. $26.60 sauvignon blanc thatdeliciously drinkable marries late harvest ½right now. $17.30 characters of honey, dried apricot and Deutz Marlborough crystallised pineapple Prestige Cuvee with varietal notes 2014 HHH1/2 of fresh lime and A boldly flavoured wine passionfruit. A strong showing secondary thread of acidity keeps aromas of field the wine fresh and mushrooms, red berry delicate. $26.50 fruit and tangerine peel. There is a small degree of autolysis contributing a subtle brown bread and toast note. Crisp and tight with a strong line of acidity running through the palate. $33 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 125

recent releasesHaha Sauvignon Stoneleigh Wild Spy Valley Envoy Stoneleigh LatitudeBlanc 2016 HHH1/2 Valley Marlborough Johnson Vineyard Marlborough PinotAttractive sauvignon Pinot Noir Pinot Gris Noir 2016 HHHthat sits at the riper 2016 HHH1/2 2016 HHH A youthful,end of the spectrum; Sitting firmly in the An opulent wine with straightforward style ofpassionfruit and red fruited spectrum a distinctive aroma of pinot with an abundancerockmelon with just a with juicy, youthful Manuka honey and of juicy fresh red cherrytouch of box hedge. strawberry, raspberry golden peach which and cranberry fruit. AnWell made, not overly and cranberry fruit to suggests some late uncomplicated pinot noircomplex but excellent the fore. Minimal oak harvested fruit. A that drinks well now.value for money. $16 influence creates a wine generous, fleshy densely $22.60Stoneleigh that is both brightly fruited wine, with a Cypress SyrahMarlborough toned and easy drinking. definite sweet mango 2015 HHHChardonnay Great value. $19 note. $32 A pretty, floral style of2016 HHH1/2 Gunn Estate Brancott Estate syrah; raspberry and redFresh white peach and Reserve Hawkes Flight Waipara cherry with a little crackedred apple aromas lead Bay Merlot Cabernet Riesling 2016 HHH pepper. Gentle tanninsto a generous, ripe 2016 HHH1/2 Riesling is arguably in the background givesweetly fruited palate. Dark plummy fruit with better suited to low structure. Lovely now. $26A touch of leesy bran a touch of fruitcake alcohol styles than anybiscuit complexity and dark chocolate. other variety; this lightlywith some oak barrel Medium bodied with a floral wine with touchesinfluence adds a layer of background of savoury of orange blossom,interest. $17.30 tannin this is drinking peach and citrus isStoneleigh Latitude well now. $20 uncomplicated and easyMarlborough to enjoy. $17.30Chardonnay  Gunn Estate2016 HHH1/2 Reserve Hawkes BayRipe apricot and golden Brancott Estate Chardonnaypeach flavours are Marlborough 2016 HHHsupported by a strong Sauvignon Gris A lighter bodied, freshseasoning of cinnamon 2016 HHH style of chardonnay;and nutmeg oak. A Snow pea and kaffir lime floral and bright with aconfident, full flavoured leaf aromas lead to a background of subtlechardonnay. $22.60 mouth-watering palate oak adding another layer of red grapefruit and of flavour. $20 quince. A fleshy, ripe wine with just a tiny hint of sweetness rounding out the palate. $17.30 Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What126 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDJuly/August 2017 Issue 154In this issue... THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THEOrganic Wines & New Releases LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.Best Value Buys under $20 Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411BAROSSA VALLEY

ORGANIC WINES133 TASTED71 AWARDEDORGANIC WINESsponsored by NASAAWe always enjoy this judging where the quality of fruit SAUVIGNON RIESLINGinvolved is always a feature. When the winemaking expertise BLANC &is lifted to match the grapegrowing the wines will be a force BLENDS 5 TASTEDto be reckoned with. We make no excuses that these wines 1 AWARDEDwere judged as per normal wine judging criteria as they have 8 TASTEDto compete in the marketplace without fear or favour. We 2 AWARDED A wide range of stylesare very pleased to offer here many very good and drinkable but- \"Just because youexamples. The judges were very produce organic or bio- disappointed with dynamic wine doesn't these wines finding mean you should most lacking varietal sacrifice regional and definition. varietal definition,\" said one judge.SPARKLING Horner Wines Family Tamburlaine Hunter Stormflower Single Tamburlaine Orange Reserve Hunter Valley Reserve Vineyard Wilyabrup Reserve Orange4 TASTED Valley Viognier Hunter Valley Margaret River Riesling 2015 HHH0 AWARDED 2016 HHHH Semillon 2016 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Fresh bright lime/citrus Honeyed apricot Grassy nose with hints 2016 HHH aromas and nicelyNo wines made the bouquet and tightly of apples. Quite a syrupy Lifted herbaceous nose weighted palate. Goodgrade here. The issues wound palate with palate but balanced by with some pungency. length of green applehere were that some excellent peach-like lots of acidity. $33 Nicely textured green flavours. $33were overly sweet and varietal characters and Tamburlaine Hunter tropical palate. $25out of balance but most crisp acidity. \"Needs Valley Reserve Tamburlaine Orange CHARDONNAYwere lacking vibrancy, time to relax!\" $22.99 Hunter Valley Reserve Orangewhich is a key factor for Horner Wines Family Verdelho 2016 HHH Sauvignon Blanc 15 TASTEDsparkling wines. Reserve Hunter An off-dry flavoursome 2015 HHH 4 AWARDED Valley Verdelho wine with lots of tropical A grassy herbal style ofOTHER WHITE 2016 HHH1/2 fruit and acid at the sauvignon blanc with the \"These wines generallyVARIETALS & Fragrant floral aromas higher end. $33 lees work giving texture lacked flavour andBLENDS with a nicely textured Bassham Riverland to the palate. $33 complexity,\" said one palate showing an Petit Manseng judge. \"It is fine not15 TASTED interesting range of 2014 HHH taking anything away8 AWARDED herbal fruit flavours. Lots of interest here from the purity of the $17.99 with tropical fruit vineyard but someA solid group of Rosnay Organic characters, some procedures to preserveinteresting white Wines Cowra savoury elements, good and protect the flavourvarietals. \"It was good Semillon 2016 HHH texture and balance. of the end wine haveto see the varietal Subtle aromas of citrus $20 missed the target.\"character but watch the and melons. Well- Rosnay Organicphenolics (extraction, structured palate that's Wines Cowra Windowrie Thepressings),\" warned one ripe with melon/citrus Semillon 2012 HHH Natural Wine Cojudge. \"Some seem to flavours. $20 Ageing well but still Central Rangesbe focussing on what Tamburlaine Wine has plenty of life left in Chardonnaythey can’t do rather than Lovers Orange it. Delicate nose and a 2016 HHHwhat they can do.\" Marsanne 2016 HHH creamy palate. $20 Good varietal expression Delicate, floral peach of rock melon, red apple fragrances. Clean crisp and tropical fruit with palate with flavours toffee sweetness. $25 of peaches and green apples. $22128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingTamburlaine Hunter ROSÉ Temple Bruer Tamburlaine TamburlaineValley Reserve Preservative Free Orange Single VineyardHunter Valley 2 TASTED TB621 South Reserve Malbec Orange Pinot NoirChardonnay 0 AWARDED Australia Mataro 2015 HHHH1/2 2016 HHH2016 HHH \"Don't bother,\" said one Shiraz Grenache Reserved slightly dusty A savoury gamey styleDelicate blend of tropical judge, \"unless you are 2016 HHHHH mulberry aromas with with good primary pinotfruit and toasty oak going to make deliberate Chocolaty aromas laced hints of tar. A grippy, characters and a nicearomas. Quite a flinty rosé wines and not with licorice and has gravely palate with range of flavours. $30palate with intense afterthoughts from hints of plums. The great length of mulberry 919 Winesflavours. $33 excess fruit\". powerful varietal fruit flavours showing more Reserve Riverland flavours are ripe and tarry notes. $44 SangioveseStormflower Single OTHER RED intense. Has good tannin 2016 HHHVineyard Wilyabrup VARIETALS & structure and nice level Whistling Kite Spicy dry red. SlightMargaret River BLENDS of acidity. 5+ $25 Biodynamic leathery notes to theChardonnay Riverland Petit raspberry nose and sweet/2016 HHH 22 TASTED Verdot 2014 HHHH sour fruit palate. $32A simple fresh varietal. 14 AWARDED Delightful aromas Mount AvocaNice depth and The judges found this of chocolate, mint, Limited Releasecomplexity of savoury/ to be a pleasing bracket blackberries and violets. Organic Pyreneestropical aromas and with lots of interest and Good pretension of Lagrein 2016 HHHflavours. $38 potential. \"The better primary fruit on the Fragrances of ripeTamburlaine Orange scoring wines here palate with lovely blackcurrant fruit withReserve Orange showed the best varietal tannins. $38 an inky, briary fruitChardonnay expression.\" palate and good tannins.2015 HHH 919 Wines $48.95Ripe varietal fruit Lark Hill Biodynamic Reserve Riverland Hedonist McLarencharacters nicely Wines 'Scuro' Touriga Nacional Vale Tempranillointegrated with the Canberra District 2016 HHH1/2 2015 HHHtoasty/nutty oak. Good Sangiovese Shiraz Lifted floral aromas An earthy nose withflavour length. $33 2015 HHHHH and slightly resinous, hints of black olives. A well planned and well well balanced, cherry Medium intensity palate executed wine with flavours. \"Shows good with upfront tannins. great perfumed lift to understanding of the $20 the dark spicy fruit nose. variety.\" $42 Tamburlaine Single Has gamey raspberry Vineyard Orange flavours on a palate Kalleske Paxton McLaren Malbec 2015 HHH that offers lovely fresh Clarry's Barossa Vale Tempranillo Slightly leathery note drinkability. $65 Valley G.S.M. 2016 HHH to the dark raspberry 2016 HHHH1/2 Good varietal expression aromas. Nicely A fresh gamey, here. Nice chocolaty fruit structured, fleshy, green grenache-driven nose; nose and flavours in the fruit palate. $30 smells spicy and red fruit spectrum. $25 Whistling Kite licoricey. Velvety in the Biodynamic mouth with a complexity Riverland Petit of sweet briary fruit, Verdot 2015 HHH pepper and wild ferment A riper chocolaty/ notes. $21 Christmas cake style of wine with big tannins and good acid balance. $38 Whistling Kite Biodynamic Riverland Montepulciano 2015 HHH Black cherry fruit aromas and very tannic palate with more of the black cherry fruit flavours. $38 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

ORGANIC WINESMERLOT Rawson's Retreat Salena Estate Organic Glenrowan Twisted Sticks4 TASTED Cabernet Shiraz Organic Riverland Merlot 2015 HHHH Cabernet Shiraz2 AWARDED Powerful malty oak and 2015 HHH mulberry-like aromas Toasty oak slightlyA small group chasing with a sweet and dominates the savouryripeness and tannin. flavoursome fruit palate fruit nose. Soft palate;A couple of nice reds that has smoky oak and savoury flavours andwithout a lot of varietal crisp acidity. 5+ drying finish. 5+character. $13 $25Purevision Organic Hedonist McLarenSouth Australia Vale CabernetMerlot 2016 HHH1/2 SauvignonJammy, slightly porty 2015 HHHHnose with a hint Nose has some currants,of mint. Tastes of some cassis and a hintraspberry lollies. Palate of cranberries. The firmhas good tannins dry palate has smokystructure. 5+ oak and crisp acidity.$15 5+ $20Angove Family Temple Bruer Tamburlaine Orange Horner WinesWinemakers Organic Preservative Free Reserve Cabernet Family ReserveSouth Australia Langhorne Creek Sauvignon Central Ranges Cabernet Merlot 2015 HHHH1/2 Cabernet SauvignonMerlot 2015 HHH Coffee characters on 2016 HHH1/2Firm and flavoursome 2016 HHHH1/2 the nose with some A leafy cabernet withwith attractive sweet Attractive nose; a tar-like complexity. Soft, a lifted spicy fruit noseplum fruit, firm tannins complexity of rhubarb, thick cassis fruit palate and full fleshy palateand bright acidity. raspberry and cassis showing nice weight with savoury olive with some floral notes. and structure with a flavours and cedary oak. 5+ $16 The palate is full, fresh powerful after taste. 5+ $17.99CABERNET & and fleshy. Good flavour 5+ $44 profile with powerful Purevision Organic Purevision Organic Organic Hill tannic finish. 5+ South Australia South AustraliaBLENDS $20 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Preservative Free 2016 HHHH 2015 HHH1/2 South Australia13 TASTED Nose has a nice lift of A silky smooth and Cabernet Sauvignon blue fruits and cassis. nicely balanced wine13 AWARDED The full flavoured, with savoury meaty 2016 HHH slightly jammy, fruit aromas and good freshA consistent group of palate has good weight cassis palate. Good Simple Ribena-likedrinkable reds. These of tannin, acidity and tannins. $15 bouquet. Firm tannictended to firm reds with light creamy oak. palate, slightly greenextraction of fruit and fruit flavours with brighttannins a major factor. 5+ $15 acidity. 5+ $20\"Great to see a lack ofaldehydes,\" said one Paxton MV Salena Estatejudge. McLaren Vale Twisted Sticks Cabernet Sauvignon Organic Riverland 2015 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Oak-driven nose with 2015 HHH leafy characters and a Plain simple style but dusty oak palate with lots going on! Leafy slightly green fruit cassis varietal characters flavours and drying and light malty oak. $25 tannins. 5+ $22JUDGES Shane Harris Marc Allgrove Steve Warrick Winemaker for Wines by Partner at Evans and Wine marketer with 20 Geoff Hardy including, Ayers consulting firm. years experience in McLaren Pertaringa Wines, K1 and With over 20 years in the Vale, Coonawarra, Adelaide Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Australian wine industry, Hills and Margaret River. Wines. Has also completed both Australia and abroad. Extensive wine judging vintages in Queensland and Worked at Hardy’s, experience at the Adelaide, Victoria. Completed the AWRI Constellation, Chapel Hill Hobart and McLaren Vale advanced sensory course (CEO) and director of the wine shows. and has associate judged at Phylloxera board. McLaren Vale wine show.130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingWindowrie Pig in Rosnay Organic Windowrie David Kalleske Moppathe House Cowra Wines Grand Pere O'Dea PF Organic Barossa ValleyCabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cowra Central Ranges Shiraz 2015 HHH2015 HHH Shiraz Mourvedre Shiraz 2016 HHH Leafy green bouquetMulberry aromas with 2015 HHHH1/2 Hints of licorice, with a dash of spice andlight minty notes and a A classy, elegant and mulberry and candied nice weight of medicinal-sweet flavoursome fruit seamlessly balanced apple aromas. Silky like fruit flavours. $28palate. $25 wine. Meaty, smoky smooth palate with characters on the nose slurpy flavours. $25 Paxton QuandongRosnay Organic and complex savoury Farm McLaren ValeWines Cowra elements on the palate. Windowrie Pig in the Shiraz 2015 HHHCabernet Sauvignon Good tannin structure. House Cowra Shiraz Pepper and spice lift2012 HHH 2016 HHH off the red fruit nose.Fresh lifted blue fruit 5+ $30 An elegant wine with Cherry/raspberrybouquet with hint of smoky oak aromas and flavours, grainy tannins,mint and powerful leafy Angove Family meaty/savoury palate good acidity. $30minty flavours. 5+ Winemakers that fills out with plum$20 Warboys fruit. 5+ $25 Kalleske Greenock Single Vineyard Barossa Valley McLaren Vale Angove Family Shiraz 2015 HHHSHIRAZ Shiraz Grenache Winemakers Wild Briary, licorice, forestBLENDS 2015 HHH1/2 Olive McLaren Vale floor fragrances and Pretty plum and floral Shiraz 2015 HHH fleshy fruit flavours.6 TASTED aromas. Silky smooth Malty licorice nose Some very green acid on palate with soft plum Macaw Creek and supple sweet fruit the finish. 3-5 $403 AWARDED flavours, \"perky\" acid Mount Lofty Shiraz and soft tannins. 2016 HHHH palate with soft tannin 919 Wines Reserve 5+ $44 structure. 3-5 $22 Riverland ShirazA small but very strong Chocolaty aromas laced 2015 HHHclass of balanced fruit- SHIRAZ with licorice and plums. Licorice lifted fruitdriven wines offering 2016/2015 Powerful fruit flavours; Salena Estate bouquet and gameygood flavour structure. Twisted Sticks characters to the 24 TASTED ripe and intense. Good Organic Riverland cranberry-like palate.Rosnay Organic 13 AWARDED tannin structure and Soft finish. $42Wines Freedom acidity. 5+ $17 Shiraz 2015 HHHRed Cowra Shiraz Not as strong as the Ageing red fruit aromasMourvedre cabernet class. \"Lots and mature spicy stewed2016 HHHH1/2 of green fruit and acid,\" Em's Table Clare fruit flavours with softFresh, complex and commented one judge. Valley Shiraz tannins. 3-5 $25 Angove Familyyouthful with spicy Too many wines lacked 2016 HHH1/2 Winemakersblackberry fragrances the flavour expected Big, dense and fleshy Windowrie The Warboys Singleand powerful spicy fruit from shiraz fruit. with slightly porty-like Natural Wine Co Vineyard McLarenflavours supported by the However, as always, nose and fresh sweet Central Ranges Vale Shirazspicy oak and showing the better wines did raspberry fruit flavours. Shiraz 2015 HHH 2015 HHHa dash of white pepper. show fruit and retained Nice length of tannins. Ripe and chocolaty Oaky raspberry aromas freshness. on the nose with soft, and a simple palate with 5+ $20 5+ $19 smooth and simple raspberry/plum palate. Robinvale NW nice fruit sweetness in Victoria Shiraz 5+ $25 the middle. 3-5 $44 2016 HHH A big wine, high in acid that has attractive fleshy youthful fruit/oak aromas and flavours. $25 We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131

ORGANIC WINES SHIRAZ Hedonist Reserve Rosnay Organic 2014 & OLDER McLaren Vale Shiraz Wines Cowra Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 2009 HHH 14 TASTED Mocha aromas mingle Toasty nose with green with plum fruit and has notes underneath. 10 AWARDED a light white pepper lift Simple soft red fruit with sweet fruit flavours palate. Crisp acid finish. A stronger group of on the fleshy palate. $20 shiraz wines. Nice to see some softer \"blue\" 5+ $65 FORTIFIED fruit characters with less extraction than shown Purevision Organic 1 TASTED in the previous group. A South Australia 1 AWARDED few here did have green Shiraz 2014 HHH fruit characters which is Sweet chocolaty style Robinvale LBL an issue. with a slight medicinal NW Victoria character on the nose Vintage Cabernet and fleshy red fruit 2002 HHH1/2 palate. 5+ $15 Mature chocolaty/coffee/ caramel nose and very Jacob's Creek Macaw Creek sweet raisined-like Organic McLaren Mount Lofty Shiraz flavours with good level Vale Shiraz 2014 HHH of spirit. $25 2014 HHHH1/2 Hint of Marmite on the Aromas of blackberries, varietal fruit nose. Good toasty oak and green varietal expression on foliage with ripe the lightweight palate. overtones. Silky smooth, 5+ $17 well balanced palate J&J Rivers Lane with nice weight of Reserve McLaren raspberry-like fruit Vale Shiraz flavours. Good tannin 2014 HHH structure and lingering Smells of sarsaparilla, finish. 5+ $65 plums and spices. Sweet blueberry fruit J&J Rivers Lane flavours, tart acid and McLaren Vale Shiraz drying tannins. $32 2014 HHHH Mulberries and plums on the nose with a rich full- Paxton Jones Block flavoured plumy palate McLaren Vale Shiraz and good weight and 2014 HHH length of tannins. Drying Blue fruit and spice finish. 5+ $22 aromas. Nice balance of tannin, alcohol and Rosnay Organic acid on the sweet fruit Wines Grand Pere palate. $40 Reserve Cowra Shiraz 2014 HHHH STAR RATINGS  Malty aromas with hint of cedar and cola notes. Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Full and fleshy in the excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. mouth with an attractive All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry spicy fruit and oak professionals and are compared in peer flavour profile. $30 classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, J&J Eminence a major mail-order business. McLaren Vale Shiraz CD Cellar door price. 2014 HHHH CDO Cellar door only. Pleasant blueberry SO Sold out. bouquet with lifted violet $N/A Price not available at time of printing. notes. Nice weight and  Contact information pages 143. length of ripe sweet fruit with a soft tannin RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). structure. 5+ $60 BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

160 TASTED113 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESJudged during vintage when winemakers were busy, this was a Byrne Vineyards Lake Chalicesmaller than usual tasting, but as always the cream rises to the top. Thievin' Devlin SA Wines The NestHighlights this time were the reds, with across the board success Semillon Sauvignon Marlboroughfrom cabernets and shiraz along with some very exciting alternative Blanc 2016 HHH Sauvignon Blancvarietal reds. What was disappointing was the sauvignon blancs, Reserved, slightly 2016 HHH1/2where oak experimentation proved a disappointment. oaky nose and nicely Pungent intensity of weighted palate with gooseberry aromas slightly oily texture and and nice length of green fruit. $18 varietal flavours with reasonably high acidity. Byrne Vineyards $17.99 NZ Glamper SASPARKLING Ninth Island Semillon Sauvignon Giesen The August Tasmania Sparkling Blanc 2016 HHH 1888 Marlborough9 TASTED Rosé NV HHH A jasmine lift to the nose Sauvignon Blanc6 AWARDED Very pretty candied and a clean citrus-driven 2013 HHH1/2 orange rind nose and palate. Good complexity Developed herbaceousA good range of wines an elegant light berry and fine acidity. $15 bouquet and lovelyshowing plenty of palate with delicate length and balance to\"character\". sweetness. $25 Rutherglen Estates the nicely weighted Re Rutherglen Fiano palate. Holding its ageKreglinger 2016 HHH well. $34.99Tasmania Brut Buttery ripe stonefruitRosé 2006 HHHH Barristers Block aromas and some Kirrihill WinesDeveloped tangerine- Legally Red creaminess to the rock Regionallike hues and nice Wrattonbully melon/pear palate. $24 Selection VBBAEULSYUTSEcomplexity of savoury Sparkling Shirazfruit with subtle 2016 HHH Byrne Vineyards Adelaide Hillssweetness and Fresh forest berry Antiquarian Sauvignon Blancunderscored with a fragrances and a sweet Rare Field White 2016 HHHlovely phenolic grip. $70 chocolaty/plum palate Riverland White A pretty wine with a with pleasant tannins. $30 Blend 2016 HHH delicate nose and fleshyPipers Brook LD Intense ripe peach/ sweet palate with lightTasmania Sparkling mango bouquet. Full citrus/stonefruit flavours.Pinot Chardonnay flavoured palate; some $16.992007 HHH1/2 Boat O'Craigo freshness and interestingComplex toasty Methode Artiste Eden Valley phenolics. $50 PINOT GRISdeveloped nose. Traditionelle Yarra Viognier 2015 HHHHInteresting development Valley Sparkling Ripe orchard fruit SAUVIGNON 5 TASTEDon the very rich orchard Chardonnay Pinot aromas with sweet BLANCfruit filled palate with Noir 2012 HHH oak influence. Plenty 3 AWARDEDyeasty notes. $49.95 Fresh dusty green of varietal flavours. The 10 TASTED apple bouquet and lime nuttiness of the oak 3 AWARDED Generally clean quaffersMolly's Cradle blossom flavours with works well with the here. Good to see theyPremium Hunter bracing acidity giving fruit. $24 Disappointing! A different have been kept dryValley Sparkling length. $36 Rutherglen Estates style here with some rather than being sweet.Brut NV HHH Renaissance winemakers using oak,Fresh clean aromas OTHER WHITE Rutherglen most of which didn’t Norfolk Riseand tightly constructed VARIETALS & Viognier Roussanne work. Wineries are Vineyard Reservepalate with nice length BLENDS Marsanne aiming for texture and Mount Benson Pinotof fresh crisp lemon 2015 HHHH complexity over primary Gris 2015 HHHHflavours. $20 9 TASTED A savoury nose with fruit characters. \"Try Not overly intense 6 AWARDED toasty biscuity notes and these again after they but does have ripe nice full textured palate; wake up in six months!\" melon aromas. Very Always a mixed group. lots of oak. A good wine said one judge. clean palate with There were some lighter for those who enjoy this good structure, nice styles here but the best style. $32 flavour length and spicy wines showed more development. $15 flavour and varietal characteristics. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

NEW RELEASESSaint Clair Vicar's Jacob's Creek Paulett Wines Matahiwi Estate OTHER REDChoice Marlborough Barossa Signature Helmsford Clare Hawkes Bay VARIETALS &Pinot Gris 2016 HHH Barossa Riesling Valley Riesling Chardonnay BLENDSVery clean, very well 2016 HHHH 2016 HHH 2016 HHHbalanced and very Classic slatey lime Fresh lemony aromas Ripe fleshy orchard fruit/ 12 TASTEDvarietal with floral bouquet; very good and intense persistent bacony oak aromas and 10 AWARDEDfragrances and delicate floral/lime flavours. lime flavours on the a lusciously soft palateflavours. $19.50 NZ Nicely textured palate linear palate. A touch with green acidity. A strong consistentPipers Brook that has presence and sweet. $15 CD $28.99 class, generally showingTasmania Pinot Gris length and will age well. different varietal fruit2016 HHH $20 Byrne Vineyards Fermoy Estate flavours. \"Overall aRipe varietal aromatics Kirrihill Wines EB's Sidney Wilcox Single Margaret River consistent tannin factorand simple citrus palate The Settler Clare Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay here tending to be overt,\"with tight acid and some Valley Riesling Riverland Riesling 2014 HHH commented one judge.phenolic grip. $35 2016 HHHH 2015 HHH Ripe developed aromas \"Most of these wines Clean crisp style with \"Autumnal leafy nose\" and a supple fleshy need cheese!\"RIESLING & lovely intensity of citrus/ and long lingering stonefruit palateGEWURTZTRAMINER lime fruit characters on flavours with some showing \"a certain Millbrook Wines11 TASTED the nose and palate. phenolic complexity. $25 style!\" $35 Regional Geographe9 AWARDED Slight oiliness lends Tempranillo texture to the palate. $35 CHARDONNAY ROSÉ 2016 HHH1/2A strong class showing Lake Chalice Reserved dark berrythe consistency of the Wines The Falcon 11 TASTED 6 TASTED varietal fruit aromas and2016 vintage. There Marlborough 5 AWARDED 4 AWARDED medium bodied savouryis plenty of character Riesling 2015 HHHH palate with firm, overt,evident here and some Soft developed caramel- A mixed bag. \"Relatively \"If these show varietal tannin structure. $28good acid. like residual sweetness interesting group with character over just sugar on the nose and a candy quality fruit evident,\" that is a good thing,\" said Artwine Hola ClareRichard Hamilton sweet style of palate but noted one judge. one judge. \"A very lightly Valley TempranilloWatervale Clare there is also a high line \"Restraint in winemaking coloured group; seems Cabernet FrancRiesling 2016 HHHH of acid. $19.99 NZ seems to be the trend to be a new direction.\" Cabernet SauvignonSlightly oily, bright citrus Saint Clair Vicar's but at the cost of flavour Gracianoaromas leading to a Choice Marlborough and character.\" Saint Clair Premium 2016 HHH1/2mouth-watering palate Riesling Marlborough Rosé Fragrant floral red berrythat is long, intense 2016 HHH1/2 Gartelmann Wines 2016 HHH1/2 nose. Warm and veryand brimming over with Reserved floral/citrus Sarah Elizabeth Pretty rosewater-like lift juicy palate that's full offlavour. $20 aromatics. Some Orange Chardonnay to the nose and nicely life with plenty of length sweetness on the lime/ 2016 HHH1/2 weighted savoury palate and drying tannins. $30 lemon palate with a A perfumed nose with with some interesting fine length of acidity. exotic Indian spice phenolic complexity. Kirrihill Wines $19.50 NZ fragrances. Supple $21.50 NZ Piccoli Lotti Mount Pipers Brook palate, long fleshy Lofty Ranges Tasmania flavours, good oak/acid Lake Chalice Montepulciano Gewurztraminer balance. $30 Wines The Nest 2016 HHH1/2 2016 HHH1/2 Marlborough Rosé Great intensity of dark Very pretty fragrant lychee Lake Chalice 2016 HHH cherry aromas. Nice grip nose and very varietal, Wines The Nest Delicate pink wine with to the generous fleshy rich and well-balanced Marlborough reserved grapefruit-like fruit palate. Has some palate with good flavour Chardonnay aromas and an intensely chocolate and anise. $30 intensity. $35 2015 HHH1/2 flavoured berry palate. Skillogalee Spicy and toasty on the $17.99 NZ Haselgrove Twist Trevarrick Clare slightly broad nose with McLaren Vale Riesling a generous palate that is Molly's Cradle Primitivo 2015 HHH1/2 full of gentle stonefruit Hunter Valley Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 Fresh fruit bouquet and flavours. $17.99 NZ Rosé 2016 HHH A ripe raspberry/ a long, well balanced Developing aromas and chocolate varietal. palate showing good Byrne Vineyards a honeyed presence on Perfumed lift to the fruit, light creaminess Thievin' Devlin SA the pretty citrus blossom Christmas cake nose with some spice Chardonnay palate. Good spiciness. and long well balanced interest. $52.50 2016 HHH $20 flavours. $30 A light varietal shows ripe melon fruit intensity, Skillogalee Clare some sweetness. Rosé 2016 HHH Attractive commercial Lolly pink wine with style. $18 obvious candied raspberry fruit characters and attractive floral lift. $21.50134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingArtwine The Grace PINOT NOIR Wicks Estate Haselgrove VineSingle Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Sean McLaren ValeClare Valley 11 TASTED Noir 2016 HHH1/2 Grenache 2016 HHHGraciano 6 AWARDED Funky and earthy on Fleshy candied raspberry2015 HHH1/2 Generally a group aiming the nose and has a fruit nose and jammyA dense but delicate for \"size\" rather than good gamey palate jubey palate with firmwine with leafy herbal varietal characters were with lingering raspberry tannin structure. $30aromas and oodles of the judges' comments. flavour length. $25spiciness on a palate \"Elegance and nuances MERLOT &that has plenty of are the key here.\" Tenafeate Creek BLENDSinterest. $35 Wines Adelaide HillsJester Hill Wines Coal Pit Tiwha Pinot Noir 5 TASTEDTouchstone Granite Gibbston Pinot Noir 2016 HHH 2 AWARDEDBelt Petit Verdot 2015 HHHH Reserved spicy2016 HHH Alluring funky feral blackberry aromas and Richard Hamilton The judges found thisGenerous and juicy. Dark aromas lift off the nose rich palate with good Colton's McLaren to be a borderlinemocha concentration to and has a sweet berry sweet raspberry fruit Vale G.S.M. group showing firm redthe nose. Dense upfront palate with lovely texture retention. $28 2016 HHHH berry fruits but wantingblackberry flavours. $48 and showing plenty of A good firm wine with more suppleness andMillon Estate The interest. $45 NZ Boat O'Craigo Black a bright primary fruit roundness.Impressionist Eden Lake Chalice Spur Yarra Valley nose and a soft andValley Tempranillo Wines The Nest Pinot Noir approachable plum fruit Lou Miranda Estate2016 HHH Marlborough Pinot 2016 HHH palate with a fine line of Famiglia MirandaEarthy nose spiked with Noir 2016 HHH1/2 Very approachable tannins. $21 South Australiared cherry fruit and a Stalky aromatics with wine with pretty bright Tenafeate Creek Merlot 2016 HHHmenthol touch. Intense a pleasant perfumed raspberry fruit, some Wines One Tree Hill Subtle small berry fruitand grippy on the palate. lift and pretty jubey sweetness and stalky G.S.M. 2016 HHHH aromas and bright fruit$15 raspberry/anise notes. $30 Earthy/gamey palate with good tanninCoriole McLaren flavoured palate. Easy characters to the dark structure. $12.95Vale Sangiovese drinking. $17.99 NZ Rockcliffe Wines fruit fragrances. Supple2015 HHH Third Reef Great sweet palate with full Artiste Eden ValleyFirmly structured Southern Pinot Noir range of blackberry/ Merlot 2015 HHHwine; prominent dark 2016 HHH plum and mulberry Developed fruitberry fruit, leathery Attractive fuller flavours. $28 bouquet. Soft in thedevelopment and style pinot with nice Artwine Grumpy mouth with lovely ripedelicate spiciness. $27 earthiness, some spices Old Man Single varietal flavours. EasySwitch Organic Wine and reserved dark berry Vineyard Clare drinking. $24Langhorne Creek fruits. $30 Valley GrenachePetit Verdot 2015 HHH1/2 CABERNET &2015 HHH GRENACHE & A full bodied, \"full-throttle\", BLENDSReserved simple BLENDS grenache with loadsaromas. Generous of spicy fruit flavours 20 TASTEDchocolaty/cassis fruit 4 TASTED with subtle sweet/sour 19 AWARDEDflavours on the long, 4 AWARDED characters. $35warm palate. $27 A very strong consistentHand Crafted A small but strong, solid, class. \"Great to seeby Geoff Hardy emerging style. Dense varietal character ratherAdelaide Hills in flavour without being than the green leafinessTeroldego 2015 HHH excessive. of the past,\" said oneAn acid-driven style judge. \"The 2015 vintagewith perfumed is a cracker for thisfragrances and a lean, variety.\"floral and slightly greenpalate. $30JUDGES Duncan Lloyd Kate Giles Peter Simic Winemaker at Coriole Director, Claritas Marketing Editor/publisher Winestate Vineyards. Formerly with Logan and Sales & Marketing Magazine. More than 35 Wines, Mudgee. Vintages Consultant. Has vintaged years’ experience in the completed in Chateau Neuf in Italy and judged at Tall wine industry. Formerly du Pape (Rhone) and locally Timbers wine show in founding publisher of the first Mosswood (Western Australia) Western Australia. US colour wine magazine, and Josef Chromy (Tasmania). manager of the SA Wine Associate judge at the Mudgee Information Bureau, and wine show. wine educator with Regency College, in South Australia. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135

NEW RELEASES Taylors Wines Leconfield Kirrihill Wines SHIRAZ Special Release Coonawarra Vineyard Selection BLENDS Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Series Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon 7 TASTED 2015 HHHH Herbaceous fruit 2015 HHH1/2 6 AWARDED A well-made wine with characters on both the A solid, full-bodied good weight of sweet nose and palate with cabernet with a firm A solid group that the cassis fruit, firm tannic some meaty/savoury raspberry fruited palate, judges thought better backbone and a decent notes, some nuttiness nice oak sweetness and for lunch rather than amount of acid giving it and firm tannins. $35 drying tannic finish. $28 dinner drinking. These life and length. $14.99 Mount Avoca Estate Artwine Feral are made to be more Pyrenees Cabernet Farmer Clare Valley approachable and they Norfolk Rise Sauvignon Adelaide Hills have succeeded. Vineyard Mount 2015 HHHH Cabernets Merlot Benson Cabernet A lean, elegant and 2015 HHH1/2 Jip Jip Rocks Sauvignon balanced wine with A mellow integrated Padthaway Shiraz 2015 HHHH powerful, dry herbal bouquet and good Cabernet Attractive spicy green aromas and flavours sweet fruit flavours with 2016 HHHH fruit characters on the with a lovely long soft furry tannins and The nose is soft and nose. Silky smooth on lingering after taste. $38 lingering after taste. subdued but has subtle the mouth; a definitive Clarence Hill fruit poking through. A cabernet palate. Very Adelaide Cabernet 5+ $30 'tidy' sweet fruit/vanilla soft tannins. $18 Sauvignon Burk Salter oak palate with good 2014 HHHH Riverland Cabernet tannin/acid balance.Curtis Family Norfolk Rise Interesting spicy Sauvignon $20.95Vineyards Cavaliere Vineyard Reserve perfumed aromas sitting 2015 HHHMcLaren Vale Mount Benson over the oak with a Developed style; smoky Jester Hill WinesCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon similar palate that has and soft with sweet/sour Touchstone Granite2015 HHHH1/2 2015 HHHH flavour persistence, characters and some Belt Shiraz CabernetThe nose is a pleasant Great varietal presence good grip and zesty white pepper. $18 Petit Verdotmix of stewed fruit here with its dense finish. $15 Artiste Eden Valley 2016 HHH1/2and oak with a touch estery aromas and a Lou Miranda Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Dense lifted primaryof licorice. Great bright big firm berry palate Famiglia Miranda 2015 HHH fruit aromas and a palatecassis fruit endurance with good tannin South Australia Subdued savoury brimming over withon the nicely textured structure. A strong Cabernet Sauvignon aromas and a ripe 'open' berry fruits and spicespalate with good oak keeper. 5+ $25 2016 HHH1/2 palate with raisined with attractive tarryintegration. $70 A youthful, simple, characters and a hint of notes. $32Barristers Block lightweight with solid green. $24Poetic Justice dense fruit charactersWrattonbully Greenock Estate and subtle floral/violet- Clarence Hill Silver Rockcliffe WinesCabernet Shiraz Wines Heysen Trail like nuances. $12.95 Label Adelaide Quarram Rocks2016 HHHH H389 SA Cabernet Artiste Eden Valley Cabernet Merlot Great SouthernA soft easy drinking Shiraz 2015 HHHH Cabernet Merlot 2014 HHH Shiraz Cabernetstyle of wine with good Pleasant melange of 2015 HHH1/2 A well-aged, seamlessly 2015 HHH1/2persistence of sweet blackberry, raspberry Subtle oak over the fruit integrated wine that's Light perfumed notesprimary fruit characters, and oak aromas. Great nose with good firm simple and very on nose with a dash ofwarm spices and nicely intensity and weight of plum flavours, balancing approachable. $12 pepper. Pleasant plum/integrated tannins. $30 berry flavours with slight tannins and a good acid Mount Avoca blackberry flavours raw oak finish. $35 backbone. $24 Moates Lane layered with firm Stage Door Wine Victoria Cabernet tannins. $21 Co. Full House Sauvignon Skillogalee Take Barossa Eden Valley 2014 HHH Two Clare Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Firm oak/fruit aromas Cabernet 2015 HHH 2015 HHH1/2 and pleasant sweet fruit An attractive, slightly Smoky aromatics with palate with balancing warm, blueberry and slight eucalypt edge oak. Nice aged toffee violet style. Slight and a soft, full, sweet notes. $15 leafiness and solid firm fruit palate with chewy Gralyn Estate oak. $23.50 oak and more eucalypt Reserve Margaret Jacob's Creek notes. $25 River Cabernet Barossa Signature Sauvignon Reserve Barossa 2012 HHH Shiraz Cabernet A well-aged soft 2014 HHH savoury/herbal bouquet An interesting spicy with flavours sitting in savoury blend with the full berry spectrum. some blackberry fruit $120 characters. Needs food. $20136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingTom + Mitch Lou Miranda Estate Jacob's Creek Byrne VineyardsAdelaide Hills Shiraz Golden Lion Barossa Barossa Signature Glamper SA ShirazCabernet 2013 HHH Valley Shiraz Barossa Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2Warm, developed and 2015 HHHH1/2 2015 HHHH Spicy up-front aromaswell-integrated wine \"Like this,\" enthused one Savoury nose with a and good retentionwith some lacquer- judge. Lovely ageing spicy intensity. A pretty, of fresh stonefruitlike notes and some savoury fruit nose. A lightweight, blue fruit characters on thespiciness. $20 palate with plenty of palate, quite warm with somewhat simple, but character and with good good tannin integration. good, palate. $15SHIRAZ depth of sweet varietal $202016/2015 fruit mingling with the Mark's Vineyard oak. $49.95 Greenock Estate Point Eight Adelaide30 TASTED Wines Heysen Trail Hills Shiraz25 AWARDED McPherson Wines H128 SA Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2Very consistent and Curious SEA Shiraz 2015 HHHH Estery nose smellingstrong class. \"Overall 2016 HHHH A big dense stewed fruit of black olives.some great shiraz out Well made with a fresh bouquet; very primary Good presence andthere,\" commented one lively savoury edged and a blockbuster of persistence of bothjudge. \"It shows the 2015 nose and very good a palate that's laden sweet and sour flavours.vintage in a good light primary fruit flavours with spicy fruit. \"A great Needs food. $37with lots of potential for on the gentle and very style.\" $25the 2016s.\" \"accessible\" palate. Wicks Estate Artiste Eden Valley $13.99 Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2Kirrihill Wines Shiraz 2015 HHHH Dense herbal nose withVineyard Selection Tenafeate Creek Paulett Wines This delicate, crowd- a touch of Vegemite.Series Clare Valley Wines Basket Press Helmsford Clare pleaser has a sweet Quite a herbal palateShiraz 2015 HHHHH One Tree Hill Shiraz Valley Shiraz herbal edge to the nose with good oak balanceDense tarry aromas and 2015 HHHHH 2016 HHHH and lovely sweet/spicy and firm tannins. $24very good intensity of A lovely wine that A soft rounded \"crowd floral fruit flavours. Goodripe stonefruit varietal shows a seamless pleaser\" with raspberry- use of oak. $25characters that are integration between like aromas and smoothly Lou Miranda Estate Heathcote Wineryseamlessly fused with integrated palate of Famiglia Miranda Mail Coachthe soft oak on a dense the fresh and lively bramble fruit and warm South Australia Heathcote Shirazfirm palate. \"Needs varietal fruit, hints of spices. $15 CD Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2food!\" suggested one leathery development A zesty, spicy and very 2015 HHH1/2judge. $28 youthful \"joven\" style of Another great example and some \"serious\" shiraz with a good \"push\" of a seamlessly oak. Excellent tannin of plum-like varietal fruit structure. 5+ $28 Bellevue Estate characters. $12.95 integrated wine where McLaren Vale there is no edge Shiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE between the oak and Pertaringa The 2016 HHHH the fruit! 3-5 $35 Yeoman McLaren A dry red style of wine Vale Shiraz with a broad tarry nose Byrne Vineyards 2015 HHHHH and dense meaty flavours Thievin' Devlin SA Nose is a lovely fusion on a warm palate shows Shiraz 2016 HHH between the spicy a hint of cranberry fruit. Dense toasty oak/ varietal fruit and the $19.99 fruit aromas. Pleasant quality oak. The palate mid-weight palate. Light has a chewy flavour Jip Jip Rocks jubey berry fruit flavours. intensity with masses of Padthaway Shiraz $18 fruit - but not over done 2016 HHHH - and well-handled oak. Aromas of slightly Taylors Wines $250 stewed fruit and oak Special Release with nice depth of Clare Valley Shiraz Mount Avoca bright youthful sweet 2015 HHH Malakoff stonefruit flavours on Savoury toasty bouquet Pyrenees Shiraz the firm supple palate. and great depth and 2015 HHHH1/2 $20.95 balance of seamlessly Attractive toasty oak/ integrated flavours. stonefruit bouquet with Heathcote Winery spicy notes and some Cravens Place 5+ $14.99 savoury/soy characters. Heathcote Shiraz Perfect integration of 2016 HHHH Coriole Redstone mid-weight fruit, oak and Great colour here with McLaren Vale Shiraz acid on a long, tenacious dark mulberry aromas 2015 HHH palate. $49.50 showing an oaky/herbal A sweet pastry-like nose edge. Good density of with cassis fruit flavours spice driven varietal fruit on the firm, lean and flavours. $22 simple palate. $22 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

NEW RELEASES Boston Bay Wines Peninsula Shiraz138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 2015 HHH Some lifted aromatics with soy-like interest. Lean spicy palate with a tannic grip. $24 Norfolk Rise Vineyard Reserve Mount Benson Shiraz 2015 HHH A pretty wine with a perfumed fruit nose and spicy fruit flavours with oak helping to balance. $25 Glenwillow Wines Patrick of Bendigo Shiraz Coonawarra Joanna 2015 HHH Wrattonbully Shiraz Developed Christmas 2012 HHH1/2 cake-like aromas with a Delicious combination solid and very attractive of raspberry fruit, some toasty/plum palate. spices, slight tarry notes and toasty nutty aged 5+ $28 characters. $45 Mount Avoca Estate SWEET Pyrenees Shiraz WHITES 2015 HHH A toasty charry 2 TASTED complexity to the 2 AWARDED nose and lovely, long and elegant oak/fruit A couple of nice flavours. 5+ $38 sweeties; one with more character and the other a SHIRAZ 2014 & \"crowd-pleaser\". OLDER Saint Clair Godfrey's 8 TASTED Creek Reserve Marlborough Noble 3 AWARDED Riesling 2016 (375ml) HHHH A very small mixed Fresh sweet grapey group. A few were still aromas somewhat holding up well but some muted by the oak. Has a others not so! pretty and uncomplicated lemon meringue-like Clarence Hill palate. Crowd-pleaser! Reserve McLaren $29.90 NZ Vale Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Ca' ed Balos Dense developing Moscato d'Asti sweet/herbal fragrances DOCG Piemonte and good depth of Moscato 2016 HHH sweet and spicy Soft muscat aromas and stonefruit flavours. a zesty fresh palate with Ageing nicely. $32 sweet peach/lemonade- like flavours. $35 Wicks Estate C.J Wicks Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 A light, warm and very pretty style with all the elements in a lovely silky smooth seamless integration. $45

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Kirrihill Wines Kirrihill Wines Regional Giesen Estate Hawke's Doc Adams Wines SouthThe Entertainer Watervale Selection Adelaide Hills Bay Merlot 2015 Australia Tempranillo 2015Riesling 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Very grippy, flavoursome style A bigger style with dusty plum with a savoury nose and good fruit characters, some charryPungent tropical aromas and a A pretty wine with a delicate palate length. $16.99 wood influence and dryingtight crisp and crunchy palate nose and fleshy sweet palate tannins. $20tasting of apples. 3-5 $18 with light citrus/stonefruit Giesen Wines flavours. $16.99 Phone: +64 3 344 6270 Doc Adams Wines Pty LtdKirrihill Wines Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Phone: 0419 807 165Phone: 08 8842 1233 Kirrihill Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.giesen.co.nz Email: [email protected]: sharonedwards@kirrihillwines. Phone: 08 8842 1233 Web: www.docadamswines.com.aucom.au Email: [email protected]: www.kirrihillwines.com.au com.au Web: www.kirrihillwines.com.auBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 139

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Brygon Reserve Wines Brygon Reserve Wines GMH South Australia Wine for Yoga LoversSignature Series Lions Lair Western Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Langhorne CreekCoonawarra Cabernet Australia Cabernet Big, bold and fruity with cassis, Cabernet Sauvignon 2015Sauvignon 2015 Sauvignon 2015 oak and mint evident on the Dried herbal notes onSweet aromatic lift to the Nicely focussed varietal fruit nose. Lots of varietal flavours. the red fruit nose withcomplex nose. Dark fruit characters of blueberries Shows great potential. $20 quite a big, concentrated,flavours with tarry/licorice and currants with oak in the palate for the price. $16characters developing. Good background. $18.99 Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardyuse of old and new oak. $18.99 Phone: 08 8388 3700 Wine forYoga Lovers Brygon Reserve Wines E: [email protected] Phone: +61 08 8238 5469Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556 W: www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy. E: [email protected]: +61 419 865 556 E: [email protected] com.au W: www.wineforyogalovers.com.auE: [email protected] W: www.brygonreservewines.com.auW: www.brygonreservewines.com.au140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Shearer's Hill Premium Olivia Coonawarra Doc Adams Wines South Bellevue EstateLanghorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia Cabernet McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Interesting mineral characters Sauvignon 2015 A dry red style of wineComplexity of dark fruits to the oak dominated aromas. A soft and gentle cabernet that with a broad tarry nose andand dried herb aromas. Mellow fruit/oak flavours. $19.95 is flavoursome and balanced dense meaty flavours on aTastes of dark berries, with cool blue fruit characters warm palate shows a hintcoffee and roasted nuts. $18 Kopparossa Estate and fine tannins. $20 of cranberry fruit. $19.99 Phone: 08 8736 3268Shearer's Hill Email: [email protected] Doc Adams Wines Pty Ltd Bellevue EstatePhone: +61 08 8238 5469 Phone: 0419 807 165 Phone: 0413 082 358E: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: www.cmv.com.au Web: www.docadamswines.com.au Web: www.bellevueestate.com.authe wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 154 | July/August 2017Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2017 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.auTasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141

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contact detailsKANGAROO ISLAND Majella Wines CLARE VALLEY AND SURROUNDS Sabella Vineyards Phone: 08 8736 3055 Phone: 08 8323 8470Dudley Trading Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Skillogalee Winery Email: [email protected]: 08 8553 1333 Web: www.majellawines.com.au Phone: 08 8843 4113 Web: www.sabella.com.auEmail: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: www.dudleywines.com.au Millbrook Wines (Est.1996) - Web: www.skillogalee.com.au Shingleback see Fogarty Wine Group Phone: +61 8 8323 9199Snow Dragon Wines Email: [email protected] FLEURIEU AND SURROUNDS Email: [email protected]: 0418 877 499 Web: www.shingleback.com.auEmail: [email protected] Mollydooker WinesWeb: www.snowdragonwines.com.au Phone: 08 8323 6500 Dandelion Vineyards MERLOT AND BORDEAUX Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8556 6099 VARIETALS Web: www.mollydookerwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.dandelionvineyards.com.au Aldi StoresCABERNET AND BLENDS Palmer Wines Phone: 02 9675 9382 Phone: 08 9756 7388 McLAREN VALE Email: [email protected] Stores Email: [email protected] Web: www.aldiliquor.com.auPhone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.palmerwines.com.auEmail: [email protected] Aldi Stores Beresford Wines (Vok Beverages)Web: www.aldiliquor.com.au Patrick of Coonawarra Phone: 02 9675 9382 Phone: 08 8182 1890 Phone: 08 8737 3687 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Wine Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Web: www.aldiliquor.com.auPhone: 0411 422 450 Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Majella WinesEmail: [email protected] Doc Adams Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8736 3055Web: www.artwine.com.au Pernod Ricard Australia Phone: 0419 807 165 Email: [email protected] Phone: 02 8874 8354 Email: [email protected] Web: www.majellawines.com.auAustralian Vintage Limited Email: [email protected] Web: www.docadamswines.com.auPhone: 08 8172 8333 Palmer WinesEmail: [email protected] Pernod Ricard Winemakers Pty Ltd Grandeur Wellington Phone: 08 9756 7388Web: www.avl.com.au Phone: 08 8131 2559 Phone: 08 8383 0866 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.palmerwines.com.auBarristers Block/Celad’or Estate Vineyards Web: www.pernod-ricard-pacific.com Web: www.grandeurwellington.com.auPhone: 08 8389 7706 Villa Maria Estate LtdEmail: [email protected] Project Wine Pty Ltd (now known as Haselgrove Wines Phone: +64 9 255 1754Web: www.barristersblock.com.au Vinternational) (Festival City Wine & Spirits) Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8537 0600 Phone: 08 8323 8706 Web: www.villamaria.co.nzBeresford Wines (Vok Beverages) Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: 08 8182 1890 Web: www.projectwine.com.au Web: www.haselgrove.com.au NEW RELEASESEmail: [email protected] Reillys Wines J & J Wines Pty Ltd Barristers Block/Celad’or Estate VineyardsBrygon Reserve Wines Phone: 08 8358 0480 Phone: 08 8323 9888 Phone: 08 8389 7706Phone: +61 419 865 556 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.reillyswines.com.au Web: www.jjwines.com.au Web: www.barristersblock.com.auWeb: www.brygonreservewines.com.au Ross Hill Wines Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd / Richard Hamilton Coal Pit VineyardCoonawarra Jack Winery Pty Ltd Phone: 02 6365 3223 Phone: 08 8323 8830 Phone: +64 272 691 389Phone: 08 8736 3130 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.rosshillwines.com.au Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Web: www.coalpitwine.comWeb: www.jackestate.com Shingleback Maxwell Wines Curtis Family VineyardsDeep Woods Estate Phone: +61 8 8323 9199 Phone: 08 8323 8200 Phone: 0439 800 484Phone: 08 9756 6066 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.shingleback.com.au Web: www.maxwellwines.com.au Web: www.curtisfamilyvineyards.comWeb: www.deepwoods.com.au Wills Domain Estate McLaren Vale III Associates Greenock Estate WinesGralyn Estate Phone: 08 9755 2327 Phone: 08 8323 7940 Phone: 0403 683 067Phone: 08 9755 6245 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.willsdomain.com.au Web: www.associates.com.au Web: www.gewines.comWeb: www.gralyn.com.au Zonte’s Footstep Mollydooker Wines Kirrihill Wines Pty LtdKirrihill Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8383 2032 Phone: 08 8323 6500 Phone: 08 8842 1233Phone: 08 8842 1233 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au Web: www.mollydookerwines.com.au Web: www.kirrihillwines.com.auWeb: www.kirrihillwines.com.au Pertaringa Wines Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard HamiltonKopparossa Estate Phone: 08 8383 2707 Phone: 08 8323 8830Phone: 08 8736 3268 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.pertaringa.com.au Web: www.leconfieldwines.com July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 143

contact detailsPatrick of Coonawarra Macaw Creek Wines TASMANIA Hand Crafted by Geoff HardyPhone: 08 8737 3687 Phone: 0418 890 203 Phone: (08) 8388 3700Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Bream Creek Vineyard Email: [email protected]: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Web: www.macawcreekwines.com.au Phone: 03 6231 4646 Web: www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy.com.au Email: [email protected] Creek Wines Organic Hill Wines Web: www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au Kirrihill Wines Pty LtdPhone: 08 8280 7715 Phone: 0418 288 457 Phone: 08 8842 1233Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] BEST BUYS Email: [email protected]: www.tenafeatecreekwines.com Web: www.organichill.com.au Web: www.kirrihillwines.com.au Bellevue EstateThe Collective Wine Company Stormflower Vineyard Phone: 0413 082 358 Kopparossa EstatePhone: +61 2 9955 2008 Phone: 08 9755 6211 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8736 3268Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.bellevueestate.com.au Email: [email protected]: www.thecollectivewinecompany. Web: www.stormflower.com.aucom.au Brygon Reserve Wines NZ RECENT RELEASE Tamburlaine Organic Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556ORGANIC WINES Phone: 02 4998 4200 Email: [email protected] Jackson Estate NZ Email: [email protected] Web: www.brygonreservewines.com.au Phone: +64 3 572 9500Kalleske Wines Web: tamburlaine.com.au Email: [email protected]: 08 8563 4000 CMV Farms/Shearer’s Hill Web: www.jacksonestate.co.nzEmail: [email protected] Temple Bruer Wines Phone: 0477 003 133Web: www.kalleske.com Phone: 08 8537 0203 Email: [email protected] SOUTH ISLAND (NELSON & Email: [email protected] Web: www.cmv.com.au CANTERBURY)Lark Hill Web: www.templebruer.com.auPhone: 02 6238 1393 Giesen Wines Villa Maria Estate LtdEmail: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 344 6270 Phone: +64 9 255 1754Web: www.larkhillwine.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.giesen.co.nz Web: www.villamaria.co.nz Whether it’s down the road or across the globe - we move food & beverages, worry free. With real global capability, an ever-intensifying network and aggressive growth targets, we are perfectly positioned to help our customers deliver increasing volumes of their products into the hands of their customers Air and Ocean Warehousing Transport • Airfreight • Pick and pack • Nationwide and • Seafreight metro • Import and • Hazardous substances • Full truck load export and intermodal • Customs • Inventory management • Specialised B2C clearance services • Perishables • Food grade • Tanks warehousing • Wharf cartage144Wine AdWverIt JNanE20S16.TindAd T1 E July/August 2017 www.mainfreight.com 10/05/2016 9:58:52 AM

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aftertasteELISABETH KINGA LESSON IN ‘FIZZICS’ FOR CHAMPAGNE LOVERSI DON’T know what occasion will merit the but we liked the third one,” he says. “We food wine with a clean acidity and a slightlypopping of the cork, but I’ve hung on to a devoted five years to trials and 10 years to yeasty nose. Refreshing is the word mostbottle of Moet & Chandon Vintage 2006 for maturation. At Moet & Chandon I may be the sommeliers use to describe it.”no real reason I can think of. Disgorged in public face of the house, but we work as a2013, the release marked the first time the team. It was an incredible moment for all of Gouez doesn’t like to talk technical exceptdisgorgement date was featured on the label. us when MCIII was acknowledged as setting when necessary because he believesI have tasted its fruity richness which boasts a a new benchmark for prestige champagnes. champagne is all about experience. “NV isfresh palate redolent with toastiness and a hint Complex, rare and powerful.” 90 per cent of production for Moet and theof peach, of course, but my hoarding instinct emphasis is on quality, consistency and cost,”proved a useful segue into an interview with Only truly refined wines were used to he says. “We have reduced the dosage ofBenoit Gouez, chef de cave of Champagne’s produce MCIII, says Gouez. “Fermentation in Imperial to 5g, but I don’t think a lower dosagebiggest producer. the bottle has injected energy and lightness automatically improves a champagne. It’s not into the most mature vintages. That’s why it about sweetness; it’s more about preventing A vintage gives me more freedom, noted is important to take your time to savour it. We a wine from ageing too fast.”the affable Frenchman on a whirlwind visit recommend drinking from a large glass, notto Sydney to launch Moet’s Grand Vintage a flute, to reveal MCIII’s full expression and Adapt or die is a strong guiding principle for2008 and MCIII - a prestige champagne evolution. It should also be sipped carefully Gouez. “Moet has an incredible history andof which only 100 bottles were allocated as its character changes minute by minute. legacy, but we have to evolve and continueto the Australian market, priced at $750 a Most people are surprised at its lightness for to grow. I stay in Champagne for obviouspop. My 2006? Don’t wait too much longer, such a rich, complex wine.” reasons from August to March and travel tochampagne is for sharing, was the obvious many of our major markets from April to July.and pertinent advice. At the other end of the price scale, the Japan and Hong Kong have become very biggest commercial success under Gouez’s serious about wine and I meet many people Gouez, whose winemaking journey has watch has been Ice Imperial, the only in both markets who have a deep knowledgeincluded “handyman” duties at Cape Mentelle champagne made to served over ice. Wildly and interest. Mexico has also become aand Cloudy Bay as a student in the mid- popular in usual suspect destinations such as strong emerging market in the past five to 10’90s, has been Moet’s chef de cave since Miami, Dubai and the French Riviera, over one years. China has huge potential, of course,2005. He grew up in Normandy, presumably million bottles are sold each year. “Everyone but I believe it should be approached in thesipping cider and Calvados, and only thinks we came up with Ice Imperial to target right way. For anyone to be successful in thebecame interested in wine when he enrolled a younger market,” says Gouez. “That’s the Chinese market, the only way is to do thingsat Montpellier SupAgro. He graduated as way things have turned out, but we initiated properly and with care.”an engineer in agronomy with majors in the project for a different reason. Accordingviticulture and oenology before completing a to our research, champagne didn’t sell too We end our conversation in the Park Hyattdiploma in oenology at the Ecole Superieure well over the summer season in most major Hotel in Sydney. The harbour looms in thed’Oenologie. “When I left college champagne markets, so we came up with the novel idea of background and in front of us are two glasseswas simply a generic category to me,” he the world’s first over-ice champagne. It had to of Grand Vintage 2008. It’s an apt setting. “Isays. “The same taste year after year. I didn’t be more rich, ripe and acidic to deal with the grew up mainly in Brittany,”says Gouez. “Ifeel the challenge at the time.” ice dilution which is why it doesn’t appeal so love the ocean, and fishing and sailing are much without ice. It’s been an incredible hit very important to me. The Grand Vintage Thankfully, Gouez revised his opinion to in Europe, the US, Mexico and South Africa, 2008 has a wonderful acidity. There’s a hintadopt an open-mindedness attitude that and the popularity of Ice Imperial has grown of sandy beaches and oysters togetherhas maintained the tradition and style of the so fast that we are releasing a rosé version.” with honeysuckle and anise. 2008 was ahouse while pushing the envelope. At a VIP classic year - cold with no rot - so the aciditydinner at the Sydney Opera House in March, Gouez is a huge fan of rosé champagne. expresses itself without being aggressive.a lucky few, including myself, were privileged “It’s a passion of mine. During my 12 years Maybe it was the solar eclispse in Februaryto enjoy Moet’s most luxurious release - MCIII. at Moet, rosé has gone from 3 per cent to 20 that added something extra,” Gouez wrylyA unique blend of six wines aged across per cent of total production. My predecessor notes. With a major helping hand from histhree separate processes - stainless steel, developed the Rosé Imperial NV style that I style, integrity and consummate skill. oak casks and glass bottles. like to describe as contemporary. The 2006 Vintage Rosé sold very quickly and we Gouez has been working on the luxe project launched the 2008 ahead of the vintage blancsince 2000 as part of an end-of-century in several parts of the world. Darker in colourhomage. “The first two trials didn’t deliver what than the Rosé Imperial NV, it’s a wonderfulI wanted from wines with so much character,next issue: It’s shiraz time! Our Mainfreight World’s Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge is on again featuring some of the biggest names in this style from around the world. Plus, Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria, River Regions, Otago (NZ), semillon & blends and more!146 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

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