Winestate Magazine July August 2017

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVININ April, Melbourne closed the curtains and chocolate walnut wantons. There’s a that went into the redesign of Southgateon what was broadly considered one of lovely warmth to the room with a thoughtful restaurant Pure South which opened inthe greatest culinary shows on Earth. mix of the old and new worlds not colliding early 2017 bigger and more enticing thanThe World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards but meandering quietly together. Think it ever had been before. The restaurant,were held, which coincided with the 25th blues, whites and greys, with warm with a singular focus on promotingMelbourne Food and Wine Festival and textures and clever lighting. 455 Chapel St great Tasmanian cuisine, was alwaysanyone with even a passing interest in South Yarra; phone (03) 9824 0128. comfortable and reliable, but the decisionchefs, restaurants and cooking jumped to expand and refurbish the two-levelson board and got involved in dinners, There’s a buzz about the new dining adding a private dining room, raw bar, opentastings, talks and kept on eating through venue Etta that opened in mid-March with kitchen and double capacity, catapultedthe city and the State. While this energy some serious hospitality chops behind it. it into the present with a slick and invitingamped the city up for a few weeks, The modern-Australian, neighbourhood- design. Lots of blonde woods, sand andMelbourne stayed steadfastly on-script style bistro has a strong seasonal menu limestone open out on to the promenadewith openings, closings and even some with a nod to comfort food yet with a good (it’s impossible to miss it) allowing the viewrefreshing renovations giving well-loved dousing of experience. The trio behind Etta to pour into the dining rooms. Pure Southdining rooms a fresh contemporary look are front-of-house professional Hannah opened in 2004 to a welcoming audience.and feel. One of these fresh new looks Green, chef Hayden McMillan (ex-Roving Hiring Michelin-starred chef Ashley Davishas been given to Oriental Teahouse Marrow in Carlton) with his wife Dominique (who now has his own venue, Copper Poton Chapel St in South Yarra. Originally McMillan. Green and McMillan were Seddon in Melbourne’s inner-west) took it toestablished in 2004 by restaurateur colleagues at Rosetta (Neil Perry’s Italian another level and then the decision to shutDavid Zhou, the transformation of the restaurant in Melbourne’s Crown). The and rebuild, while a huge one, was certainlymuch-loved teahouse experience simply trio employed the talents of Iva Foschia the right tack to take. They’ve appointedraises the bar in terms of dim sum and from IF Architecture (she designed chef David Hall, who has created menus totea service. Tea is the central theme of Andrew McConnell’s Marion wine bar satisfy the different aspects of the business.the venue. It’s used in many dishes such and is working with Ben Shewry on his Take in three-courses upstairs or drop byas Oolong tea-smoked chicken fillet with reworking of Attica) to design the dining first thing in the morning for breakfast of araspberry tea mayonnaise as well as in room filled with lots of Australian stone, bacon and egg roll using Scottsdale free-cocktails, including an apple Sencha tea- banquettes in rich burgundies and greens, range bacon and tomato relish. Drop in atinfused martini. Zhou has kept many of the and warm wooden finishes. The menu promenade level for a glass of wine andpopular dishes on the menu such as the treads familiar territory which is a smart a snack - smoked Huon ocean trout tacolucky prawn and chive dumplings and chilli decision given its inner-city suburban with finger lime or a broccoli doughnutwagyu beef dumplings, while he’s added location. One dish that’s popping up all with gooey Pyengana cheddar - and in thenew creations such as flame thrower pulled over social media is the mozzarella pasta restaurant the beef selection is outstanding.pork dumplings and fried peanut butter with zucchini and black olive, a simple King Island grass fed beef - including play on classic flavour combinations, and eye fillet, scotch fillet or rib eye on the texturally buoyant. There’s some tasty bone - from the chargrill with a choice vegetarian options such as tamari-roasted of mushroom, garlic, bone marrow. And buttercup pumpkin with horseradish and don’t forget all those lovely Tassie Pacific sunflower or charred carrots dressed with oysters to choose from. The wine list isn’t orange, haloumi and hazelnut as well as just anchored to Tasmania. The rest of the the go-to meaty dish of roasted Milawa country gets a look-in alongside some half-chicken with broccoli and tarragon. European smatterings. The thing to take in The wine list is a dance through interesting here is the food, the friendly service and Victorian winemakers - Athletes of Wine the view of Melbourne. A sure-fire win for and Jamsheed are two standouts - with a visitors and locals alike. 3 Southgate Ave, boutique selection from parts of Europe Southbank; phone (03) 9699 4600. and New Zealand. 60 Lygon St, Brunswick East; phone (03) 9448 8233. Top right: Smoked Trout Taco in nori shells with fingerlime from Pure South restaurant. It’s a big commitment to close for eight Left: Fried Peanut Butter & Chocolate Walnut Wontons months (and that was just in the building). With Ice Cream from Oriental Teahouse restaurant. There was clearly a long stretch of planning52 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELCHEF and restaurateur Paul McGivern above it’s weight with dishes like lamb neck, - pannacotta is made with buffalo curd andknows a thing or two about wine. And lentils, carrot and porcini aioli, veal tonguefood. And restaurants. And now wine bars, with pumpkin, miso and cress and wagyu drizzled with gruyere caramel and raspberryhappily very good wine bars. flank with barley and garlic. There’s a comprehensive range of charcuterie - think gel, the dark chocolate marquise has a hint Owner of The Wolfe, a gorgeous jewel rabbit and pistachio terrines and kangarooof a bistro in East Brisbane has expanded and cocoa tartare as well as a raw section of gorgonzola and is topped with walnutinto the southside’s latest food-centric and cheeses that come as complete platesspot, Fish Lane, neighbours to Julius, such as L’Artisan La Rouge, a washed rind praline and strawberry, and there’s an ultra-Maker and around the corner Gauge. La cheese which is paired with crisp potato,Lune Wine Co. opened earlier this year leek fondue and capers. 5/109 Melbourne rich brulee of Tomme with white chocolategiving the hotly contested precinct a highly St, South Brisbane; phone (07) 3255 2420.specialised wine experience and some and coconut ice cream. 14 Park Rd, Milton;pretty serious eats to accompany the drops. Eight years after it opened at the Eagle Street Pier, Aria has undergone a revamp of phone (07) 3157 8367. Meticulously curated with a decided the venue as well as the menu and wine list.tilt towards Burgundian style - both The old burgundy logo has been sidelined New to the ever-growing James St precinctchardonnay and pinot noir - you’ll find in favour of a monotone squiggle, the garishvarietals from Geelong, the Mornington carpet in the entrance has gone and new in Fortitude Valley is Sage Hotel - a boutiquePeninsula and Yarra Valley as well as lighting and artworks adorn the walls.France and New Zealand. McGivern is also hotel that is championing local produce whichutilising the Coravin system, which enables New menu items include scorched kingby the glass pours from cork sealed bottles salmon with kohlrabi, Moreton Bay bugs with is featured in the mini bar of each room.without opening them and thus exposing shiitake and seaweed butter and the classicthem to oxygen. A thin metal needle pierces combo of roasted loin of lamb with miso and Jocelyn’s Provisions is a James St stalwartthe cork and replaces the wine with a little eggplant. Eagle St Pier, 1 Eagle St, Brisbane;blast of argon gas ensuring freshness of the phone (07) 3233 2555. and New Farm Confectionery is a relativeoften rare and/or aged wines. These wineschange daily and more frequently on busy Also following a classical theme is Fromage newcomer to the area and a smattering ofnights. The room is classically fitted out The Cow, a petite eatery with a cheesewith wooden bistro chairs, small tables and room in the front of the two-story heritage- both decadent and delicious sweet andplenty of bar seating. The micro kitchen, listed shopfront on busy Park Rd at Milton inequipped with state-of-the-art equipment, Brisbane’s inner west. savoury products await weary travellers insidewell suited to tight spaces punches well The menu features a diverse range of the luxury suites. classic dishes that hero cheese - think double baked cheese souffles, fondues and figs There’s also Botanical Bar & Kitchen stuffed with stilton - as well as other dishes with just hints of cheese, namely saffron wedged in between the hotel and risotto scallops and mascarpone and duck pappardelle with ligurian olives and pecorino. neighbouring Queen’s Arm’s Hotel. A step The head chef is Matt Osborne, ex 1889 Enoteca and Tartufo, both masterful Italian above typical pub style dining, there’s a ristorantes, where he perfected his ability with the European classics. Charcuterie strong focus on plant-based proteins and boards and the fromage signature platters are available for drop-ins either side of wholesome grains but carnivores needn’t lunch and dinner, and you can expect your choices of cheeses to come alongside panic as there’s plenty of quality beef, lamb quince and other preserves, seasonal fruits, crusty breads and lavosh. There’s no getting and poultry on offer as well. away from the dairy when dessert beckons The wine list has a particular focus on champagne and sparkling wines as well as small-batch gins (local legends The Humpybong Distilling Company are front and centre) as well as a range of beers on tap. 64 James St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3358 2799. Top: La Lune Wine Co. restaurant interior. Bottom left: Jamon, piccalilli, almonds. Bottom right: Rabbit Terrine, Pistachio, Carrot. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 53

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGA MAJOR point-of-difference or a theme list - 150 selections by the glass or bottle from movie High Society with Bing Crosby andhas become crucial to success in Sydney’s France, Spain, South America, Australia and Grace Kelly, so a cocktail of the same namerapid-fire dining scene where a clutch of New Zealand. Passing the 2.5m-long open seemed a natural choice - Tanqueray gin withnew eateries seems to open on a monthly grill, it’s hard not to make a big hunk of meat lime jam, prosecco, bitters and mint. There’sbasis. At Nola Steakhouse & Bar, one of the a default choice. And plenty of diners look no also a neat line in negronis and martinislatest venues in Barangaroo, the trump card further than the Jack’s Creek Dry Aged Beef to get you in the mood. Chef Cy Gwynne,is a line-up of over 500 American whiskies, Brisket, organic chicken, tea-brined, smoked ex Longrain and a native Chicagoan, hasincluding limited editions and rare single and blackened or the Pit Master’s Pick - 50g brought his expertise to the deep dish pizzabottles. The restaurant’s name is an acronym of each bbq dish with accompanying sauces menu. Even a front row forward couldn’tof New Orleans Louisiana, but there’s nary and sides. But we were very happy with the finish off one on his own. If you’re peckisha gumbo or jambalaya in sight. “N’Awlins,” other menu choices from lightly torched tuna one between four is a good benchmark, butas the locals call their city, has always been sashimi and oysters rockefeller, originally if pangs are keen then two people can polisha melting pot and that’s the direction owner invented at Antoine’s restaurant in New off the vegetarian ones at least. The CaponePeter Fischer and executive chef Richard Orleans. You’re going to love this, said the is the original innovation of Chicago’s gift toDuff have adopted. A little bit of French, waitress, as she served the char-grilled miso the Italian-American culinary lexison - toppedSpanish, Mexican and African are the main eggplant and the comment proved correct. with pork and veal meatballs. We enjoyedinfluences on the menu, but there’s plenty Crawfish would be the seafood of choice in the excellently put together antipasti platterof that old Southern tradition of barbecue Louisiana, but Sydney yabbies proved a great beforehand, so opted for The Gambino - ain evidence, too. Nola boasts two large stand-in grilled with maitre d’ butter. A perfect veggie mix of eggplant, tomato and zucchini.smokers which are kept constantly busy with partner to the fries liberally sprinkled with chilli Cannoli was out of the question for dessert,up to 30 beef briskets and 120 chickens at a and eschalot salt. A great addition to the busy so lemon gelato with candied chilliestime. Duff is also a dab hand at house-made Barangraoo quarter, it was hard not to toe-tap seemed the best choice to aid digestion. Tosauces from Lexington Style BBQ Ketchup as we walked along the waterfront reminiscent paraphrase: When a moon hits your eye - andto Green Sauce, a.k.a the bastard child of of a levee. Nola Steakhouse & Bar, Tower 1/100 your stomach - like a big pizza pie. That’schermoula and chimichurri. Did I mention the Barangaroo Ave; phone (02) 9188 3039. amore. Johnny Fontane’s, 77 Stanley St, Eastview? Located on the first floor of Tower 1 in Sydney; www.opentable.com.au.Barangaroo, the ocean fills the windows up Thomas Derricott loves a good theme.to Jones Bay Wharf. But then the outside has The founder of Catmosphere, the Surry Hills A covetable setting and two pages ofa tough job of competing with Nola’s interior. cafe where moggy-lovers can book time with Japanese whisky listings await diners atDesigners Luchetti Krelle have carved the pampered felines, has teamed with Andy Tokyo Laundry, the final addition to thespace into four distinct areas - a VIP lounge Curtis of The Bear Bar to create Johnny Gateway Sydney restaurant hub at Circularthat would look at home on Bourbon St, a Fontane’s - a retro-style restaurant serving Quay. It’s the first Sydney venture for Davidcopper and latticework bar for the line-up of Sydney’s first Chicago-type deep dish pizza. Loh of Dainty Sichuan and Bubble Cup famewhiskies soon to expand to 1000 bottlings, Ella, Frank and Dean, as in Fitzgerald, Sinatra in Melbourne. A champagne and oyster bara cosy private dining room and a restaurant and Martin, dominate the ’50s-centric playlist is a major lure for Sydney’s corporate crowdspace filled with white timber and hothouse and rightly so for an eatery named after the for an after-work treat, but the food is theplants. Duff has worked the pans at London’s lounge singer in The Godfather. Normally thing. Chef Naoki Hozuwa (ex Yoshii andBibendum, Attica in Melbourne and the I hate the phrase something for everyone, Sake) presides in the kitchen. EAT, the veryGrasshopper in Sydney. A star-studded CV but it can’t be avoided at Johnny Fontane’s. apt name of the architects in charge of thematched by sommelier Jarrod Mills, whose Set amid a row of re-purposed terraces that fit-out, have created a chic-as space of steel,experience includes stints at Bambini Trust, ranks as East Sydney’s premier eat street, stone and antique brassware to play off theBerowra Waters Inn, Guillaume at Benelong the gangster theme isn’t over-played. Stylist Japanese dishes with a twist. The lobster roll isand Rockpool. The excess-all-areas approach Belinda Cendron, known as The Sourceress, a stand-out and so are the confit wagyu steakto the whisky offerings carries over to the wine has conjured up a quartet of distinct areas with roppongi sauce, Sydney rock oysters whose only uniting theme is nostalgia. A glam with yuzu, ponzu and saké and Korean fried hang-out of a bar, a Mediterranean-style chicken sticky with gochu-jang sauce. Tokyo courtyard out back, a Cuban cigar deck Laundry, Level 1, Gateway Sydney, Circular with panoramic city views and a timbered Quay; phone (02) 9251 3323. dining room with stained glass windows a la The Great Gatsby. Sinatra starred in the Above top: Nola Steakhouse & Bar. Left: Seafood from Nola Steakhouse & Bar.54 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

Sails on Lavender Bay Sails on Lavender Bay is one of Sydney’s longest running restaurants, in operation continually over the past 40 years. The restaurant is located on the foreshore of Sydney’s magnificent harbour at Lavender Bay, with postcard views of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge. It is a perfect venue for those wanting to experience the quintessential beauty of Sydney.In 2016 the restaurant had a contemporary make-over with new windows to enhance the amazing Sydney Harbour view.The wine list at Sails is an extensive award winning collection, havingbeen consistently awarded a ‘Two Glass’ rating by Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine since 2010.Restaurant Hours Lunch Dinner (noon – 3pm) (6pm – late) Tuesday - Sunday Monday – Saturday Sails on Lavender Bay +61 2 9955 5998 2 Henry Lawson Avenue,McMahons Point [email protected] Sydney NSW, Australia www.sailslavenderbay.com

FRUENSTCATUIORNASNT & Modern Australian cuisine showcasing the finest and freshest local beef, poultry and seafood. Extensive wine list highlighting the best of all major South Australian regions. Beautiful function space suitable for up to 60 people seated or 100 cocktail style.Phone: +61 (8) 8231 7611 www.18leigh.com.au 18 Leigh St. Adelaide, South Australia 5000 [email protected] (for booking enquiries)

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSFINDING a good steak isn’t a difficult master and head chef Chris Robinson, charcoal for 20 minutes, salted and servedthing to do in Adelaide, especially given whose secret is to first glaze and seal rare and sliced, as per tradition, and bestmany of the local steakhouse owners’ each steak with chimi-churri before it hits served with side dishes of Calabresefamiliarity with star South Australian waygu the charcoal grill, then turning it only once stir-fried vegetables and some rosemarybeef producer Mayura Station, along with before meeting the coals. Gaucho’s is potatoes. Shop 105, Burnside Village, 447other local producers of black angas and essentially a grill restaurant so it’s not just Portrush Rd, Glenside; phone (08) 8379Hereford cattle. about steak. You can start with traditional 8991. Open for breakfast and lunch daily, Argentine meat-filled empanadas and follow dinner Thursday-Saturday. One of the most spectacular offerings that with a first-rate paella packed with freshcomes from the Hilton Adelaide’s Coal seafood, but for the carnivores it’s all about As an artisan food producer, cook andCellar + Grill, whose signature dish is a meat - such as the parrilada mixta, or mixed food educator, Saskia Beer has followed in1.2kg angas tomahawk steak resting on grill, a feast of chargrilled chorizo sausage, her famed mother Maggie’s footsteps anda tumble of roast heritage vegetables, pork belly, morcilla, smoked chicken beef is making a major impact on Barossa Valleyserved with bearnaise sauce and a highly- and lamb. But the hero steak is the costilla cuisine, including a collaboration with thereduced red wine jus. Although well suited de bife, a 600g scotch fillet on the bone, Novotel Barossa Valley Resort’s The Cellarto corporate dining, Coal has a comfortable, closely followed in popularity by a 500g ojo Kitchen Restaurant and Bar. Saskia Beerinformal style to it. A massive coal-fired de bife, porterhouse off the bone. Can they Farm Produce has successfully engagedgrill glows on one side of its elegant dining do something bigger to order? You bet. The local providores, growers and farmers asspace, while a glass-encased 3000-bottle current record is a 3kg T-bone that a Serbian produce partners, enabling The Cellarcellar with one of the best shiraz lists in concreter demolished solo in 20 minutes. He Kitchen to provide an authentic regionalAdelaide beckons on the other. It’s also was no doubt helped by an excellent list of experience that draws on the long-standinga great place to sample South Australian Argentinian wines. Gaucho’s, 91 Gouger St, food traditions of the region. With Novotel’swines - of its 520 labels, 85 per cent are from Adelaide. Open for lunch Monday to Friday, kitchen team, Saskia has developed a newSA. Most, but not all customers, consider dinner daily; phone (08) 8231 2299. seasonal menu that includes her own freethe giant tomahawk steak a meal for two, range chicken with blood orange, juniperespecially if teamed with crisp duck fat Since reappearing on Adelaide stoves, and and polenta, and a can’t miss lamb hotchips and a salad of coal-grilled peach now with his own restaurant Pepe Cucina in pot with roast carrots from produce partnerwith prosciutto and dolce gorgonzola, or Burnside Village, Calabrian-born Salvatore Hutton Vale Lamb. Naturally you finish thingsperhaps roasted heirloom tomatoes with Pepe has become well recognised for his off with Maggie Beer’s famous quince paste -Persian fetta, sorrell and baby beetroots. ultra-authentic style of Italian cooking. Pepe and enjoy a wine list that provides an instantLess formidable steaks include Mayura was an integral part of the great success comprehensive tour of Barossa cellar doors.Station waygu rump or Clare Valley Gold of the former Cibo restaurant in North Novotel Barossa Valley, 42 Pioneer Ave,beef fillet, which come with roasted vine- Adelaide, which closed its doors a decade Rowland Flat. Open for breakfast, lunch andtrussed tomatoes and a choice of sauces. ago. Now, with a kitchen staffed by chefs dinner daily; phone (08) 8524 0000. Hilton Adelaide, 233 Victoria Squ, Adelaide. as passionately traditional as he, Pepe isOpen for lunch Monday to Friday, dinner turning the culinary clock back to dishes that Top left: Tomahawk steak from the Hilton.daily; phone (08) 8237 0697. are as authentic as he can make them. While Above right: Bistecca alla Fiorentine from Pepe Cucina dishes such as an exemplary vitello tonnato restaurant. After nearly 30 years, Gaucho’s remains or char-grilled Spencer Gulf prawns withnot only Adelaide’s meat Mecca, but also cannellini bean puree and crisp pancettaone of its most successful restaurants, and make good starters, and you might beas Argentinian in style as its famed chimi- tempted by a herb-crusted salmon fillet, it’schurri sauce. at his charcoal grill that Pepe really shines. Pepe cooked in Florence and knows exactly The beef is hand selected and butchered how a bisteca alla Fiorentina should be - inon the premises by hugely experienced meat this case it clocks in at around 1kg, so unless one is very hungry it does the job for two diners. Here it’s a giant black angas T-bone, carefully cut by hand to avoid bandsaw burn, and aged for six weeks. He also insists that the animal be at least 18 months old, not the usual 12 months: “The difference in flavour is enormous,” Pepe says. It’s then gently seared over very hot South African July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 57

winewords WELLS W I N E S - SA LT R A MS H AVAU G H NWINEMAKERSKYE MURTAGHGROWING up on the family vineyard at When you’re gaining experience as a the different soil types and sub regions.Merbein in Victoria, where her parents winemaker and seeking out opportunities At Saltram we have also been workinggrew grapes for dried fruit and wine, to learn more, are you able to structure with some alternative varieties, includingShavaughn Wells was exposed to the your journey in any way? fiano and montepulciano, and these haveworld of winemaking from an early age. shown great promise and opportunity forShe fondly recalls the “cyclic process My approach was to say “yes” to any the region.of the seasons of growing grapes and chance to broaden my experience. Mythe accompanying smells in the air” as curiosity and willingness to move around What’s coming up for Saltram Winesalways seeming to set the rhythm of her let me work with numerous winemakers with over the second half of the year andchildhood days. With her grandfather, different styles and approaches to a range into 2018?Syd Wells, both a winemaker and of different quality and types of wines. I wasmanaging director of Mildara Wine, the so fortunate to have learnt from a great lot of This year we have released the inauguralcraft runs in her blood. After studying people in the cellar, vineyard and in sales, 2012 vintage of our new cabernet sauvignonwinemaking at Adelaide University, and I am thankful to those along the way dedicated to Edward Salter, the co-founderWells gained her vintage experience at who were so generous in their approach to of Saltram Wine Estates - which was anMildara before securing opportunities to young winemakers. exceptional vintage in the Barossa, withwork in the Coonawarra and Yarra Valley, cabernet sauvignon being a highlight.as well as in sparkling production with After a dozen years at Saltram, how do We also look forward to releasing the 50thYellowglen. Along the way there was you continue to challenge yourself as Anniversary vintage of our Mamre Brooka vintage in France and, 12 years ago their winemaker? Wines, with the release of the 2014 Mamrenow, she pulled up stumps and moved Brook Shiraz.to the Barossa to join the celebrated I believe the Barossa has still manyteam at Saltram. Earlier this year she stories to tell and Saltram has been part Looking back over your time in thewas inducted as a Baron of the Barossa of the Barossa story for nearly 160 years. Barossa what have been some of thein recognition of her contribution to the The Barossa has a very energetic and pro- biggest changes you’ve witnessed inregion’s profile in SA. active wine community set on improving the region? our understanding and our ability toWas there ever a question in your mind communicate this understanding of our I’ve seen the development of the Barossaabout what career you might pursue? region. The BGWA’s Barossa Grounds Old Vine Charter, introducing a term of Project, for example, is giving narrative reference around the nomenclature of Growing up on my parents’ vineyard to a greater understanding of our ancient labelling wines crafted from our Barossameant I was exposed to the wine industry Barossa landscape and its influence old vines, and also observed the increasingfrom an early age, however my father wasn’t on our wines. I enjoy deepening our number of single vineyard shiraz winesone for wine himself. His father, however, understanding of the Barossa region being produced in the region.was a winemaker, and it was visiting their with shiraz tannins and characteristicshouse for family celebrations that sparked demonstrative of this influence, reflectingmy interest in wine. So from an early ageI always wanted to become a winemakerand it seemed like a very natural thing towant to do.Do you recall the sagest piece of adviceyour grandfather ever passed onto you? Explore every opportunity.Has having that winemaking pedigreebrought with it any challenges or onlyopportunities? Maybe a level of understanding - growingup in the industry gives you great exposureto its people and its ebbs and flows.58 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

And what do you foresee as the major Tell us about the most memorable bottle When it comes to selecting wines forchallenges to face the region and, more of wine you’ve ever consumed. your own consumption where do youbroadly, the Australian industry, over the seek advice and recommendations?next 10 to 20 years? A difficult question to answer as I have been fortunate to experience a few along Everywhere - friends, colleagues, Getting our stories out there on a world the way. One wine, however, which did tastings we attend, as well as the advicescale and crafting wines which reflect leave a thread in my mind was the 2005 of knowledgeable retailers and writers. Butthese stories to affirm our food and wine Chateau Lafite Rothschild, which I was sometimes it’s just serendipity.credentials, to bring curious travellers to able to experience during the Len Evansvisit our beautiful regions themselves. Tutorial. This in addition to some of the aged What feature do you feel most defines Barossa reds such as the Saltram 1966 the Barossa as a winemaking region?You were recently inducted as a Baron Bin 42 Shiraz Tokay and some of the olderof Barossa. What does this accolade Dorrien Cabernet wines, which despite It’s more than just the wine - it’s themean to you? their age were youthful and distinctive, community; the region’s dedicated, accompanied by great stories which left enthusiastic people are proud of its food This was a humbling experience, it comes impressions of both the wine and history. and wine culture and the hospitality that itwith great ceremony, however the Barons affords. have been supporting and promoting the Your ideal winter food and wine match?Barossa in viticulture, gastronomy, heritage I love casseroles and a Barossa grenacheand the arts since the 1970s and as a groupare very passionate and practical people. is a great match on a cold winter’s day.I was inducted along with Rob Gibson,Cameron Ashmead, Trevor March and Julie Where is the most unusual place you'veAshmead - a great group of people. ever consumed wine?You’ve notched up quite a few My husband and I visited Spain a fewaccolades over the years, including years ago and we were fortunate enough2016 Australian Winemaker of the Year by to visit the Priorat region and to try thethis publication. Outside of trophies and De Scala Dei Masdeu Garnacha, in theindustry recognition at these high levels vineyard - another amazing part of thewhat gives you the most satisfaction world.from the art of winemaking? What’s your favourite wine accessory? Around day three of a red ferment never We don’t have a cellar but our wine fridgegets old - after observing the fruit matureon the vine, then seeing its potential come is great.to life and all the anticipation that it brings. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 59

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts Domaine Georges Roumier Musigny ($7400). Very strong results continue MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S MW WINES to be achieved for Penfolds wines, July 21 – 26 online auction (taking (MARCH & APRIL AUCTION REPORT, particularly Grange and Bin 707. consignments up until July 9) BY NICK STAMFORD) Over the course of the two auctions August 22 and 23 live auction (taking SERIOUS momentum has continued to we offered for sale 336 bottles of consignments up until August 4) build at MW Wine Auctions. Our March Grange and 79 bottles of Bin 707, with auction was our highest grossing ever, clearance rates over 96 per cent for MW WINES with buyers handing over $606,000 for both categories. Some price highlights July: Submissions close Saturday, July the wine on offer. This represented a from Penfolds include 1990 Grange at 8. Auction opens Wednesday, July 12, clearance rate of 68 per cent by value $736, 1994 Grange at $575, 2001 Bin closes Wednesday, July 19. across the almost 5000 lots available. 707 at $414 and 2002 Bin 707 at $425. August: Submissions close Saturday, With highlights across a range of August 5. Auction opens Wednesday, regions, varietals and vintages - we Other iconic Australian wines August 9, closes Wednesday, August 16. feel it was one of the best wine auctions continued the trend of record, or near Submissions can be received at any time. ever held in this country. record prices, with fantastic results on wines such as Rockford Basket Press LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS Not to be completely left behind, Shiraz (2002 - $218, a strong record) Auctions close at 9pm every Tuesday our April auction also produced an and Henschke Hill of Grace (1998 - and Thursday with unreserved auctions excellent result, with $414,000 worth $644, 2010 - $667). In a sure sign of every second Sunday. Finest & Rare, of wine sold at a value clearance the market’s increasing demand for $5 Reserve, Single Vendor and more. rate of 60 per cent across over 4000 Henschke wines, every single bottle of Visit www.langtons.com.au to view the lots. Demand appears to be nigh on the 211 offered over the two auctions full calendar. insatiable, with competitive bidding sold, most at well above reserve. An across a wide range of wines and some appropriate result for the wines of one STERLING WINE stellar results achieved. of Australia’s greatest producers. Live on-line auctions run every two weeks, back-to-back, finishing on In terms of the biggest prices paid, The market’s love affair with red Wednesday evening. the three stand-outs were an excellent burgundy also continues and we were bottle of 1958 Penfolds Grange lucky to have good quantities of these ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS selling for $14,490, a 1978 Domaine exceptional pinot noirs on offer to help Visit www.oddbins.com.au for the de la Romanee Conti Romanee Conti satisfy demand. There were 1455 bottles latest auction dates and information. ($12,650) and an ultra-rare 1993 offered for sale, including a fantastic selection of wines from Domaine (All dates subject to change without notice). Armand Rousseau. The sale highlights included the 1990 and 2010 vintages of Chambertin selling for $2472 (120 per cent above reserve) and $1550 respectively, a bottle of 1985 Clos de la Roche selling for $1150 (190 per cent above reserve) and a bottle of 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques selling for $851 (70 per cent above reserve). While bidding was strong across all price points, other burgundy highlights (in addition to the Roumier and Romanee Conti above) include the 2002 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne- Romanee Cros Parantoux ($1200) and the 1985 Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin ($517). There were a few exceptional highlights in the chablis offering, with the wines of the undisputed master of chablis, Domaine Francois Raveneau, garnering plenty of interest. When the dust settled, a magnum of the60 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

wine investment & collecting2010 Montee de Tonnerre Premier Cru including four Oenotheque as well as a receive these offers, sign up at www.sold for $483, a bottle of the same wine good selection of Louis Roederer Cristal mwwines.com.au/shop or give us a call.$299 and a bottle of the 2010 Valmur and Salon among others. Notable salesGrand Cru $345. Immense prices for results were the 1985 Krug Clos du MOSSGREEN-WEBB’Simmense wines. Mesnil at $1665, 1996 Bollinger VVF at (REPORT, BY REECE WARREN) $1320 and 1985 Cuvee Dom Perignon SINCE our last auction sequence we We were also fortunate to be able to Oenotheque at $828. have had only one online auction atoffer for sale some exceptional older Mossgreen-Webbs in New Zealand.bordeaux. There were a number of While we would like to take a breath The online auction is relatively new for1961’s on offer, which the market was after our busiest two month period on us, but as our buyers get used to thisvery excited about. Chateau Batailley record, submissions keep coming thick format, these auctions are gaining realsold for $310, Chateau Belair $230, and fast, which is helpful given demand momentum.Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou $299 and is currently unprecedented. ManyChateau Lagrange $264. These were vendors seem to be well aware of this Te Mata Coleraine continues to beamong many highlights of the resurgent and are taking advantage of the strong a stand-out performer for us and webordeaux market. selling conditions. If you are interested regularly have several vintages in all in either buying or selling with us, our auctions. Not only do we never Still in France, some gems from the contact any of our team on (03) 9419 have issues selling this wine, but pricesRhone Valley elicited very competitive 6990. Please note that all prices above are certainly on the increase. Dry River,bidding, with the highlights being the include buyer’s premium. another iconic NZ wine, also enjoyed a1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle great deal of success in this last auctionselling for $874 and the 1999 Chateau There was a slew of great offers from - particularly with its white wines - asRayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape $437. our fine wine retail division, with notable buyers saw the value in being able to new releases from JJ Prum, Domaine pick up wines that were well cellared The champagne selection was also Armand Rousseau, Henschke and Moss and ready to drink now.unusually strong at the top end, with Wood - as well as some rare older gemssales of nine bottles of Krug Clos du from private cellars. If you would like to Malt Whisky, very much a growthMesnil, 11 bottles of Dom Perignon MUSEUM WINE SHOP MW WINE AUCTIONS Old, Rare and Fine Wine Sales Australia’s largest independent Specialists in rare Australian wines, wine auction house and purveyors of the world’s Competitive rates, including 0% seller’s most iconic producers. commission on Australia’s most Shop online now at iconic wine, Penfolds Grange. mwwines.com.au Call today for an appraisal 03 9419 6990MWW832 - 11 MAGAZINE AD - c01_v02.indd 1 mwwineauctions.com.au July/August 2017 W I N E S T15A/3T/17E 4:37 pm61

wine investment & collectingcategory for us, had some good In April we had our first live auction at LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONSsales with the highlight being a Mossgreen in Melbourne. This proved (AUCTION MARKET HIGHLIGHTS,1962 (distilled) Macallan 25-year-old very successful with a good number of APRIL, BY ADRIAN READ)Anniversary bottling. This is the second bidders in the room and many absentee THE biennial Barossa Vintage Festivalbottle of this highly regarded malt we bids. A sell through rate of 84 per cent is the biggest event on the Barossahave auctioned recently. was achieved on the evening and Valley calendar and with 30 wines in the bodes well for the future of this new Langton’s Classification, the Barossa is However, it was the wines of France department within our company. without doubt Australia’s leading finethat experienced the majority of sales. wine region. (Coonawarra is next withHighlights were many with some By the time this is published we would 15 classified wines, followed by theoutstanding wines available. The Rhone have had our second single vendor Clare Valley with 11).featured Guigal La-la’s as well as auction of the year. This auction hasChateauneuf’s from Janasse and de la many great wines from a fabulous The climax of the Festival is theMordoree. Chateauneuf du Pape is an area cellar that includes Screaming Eagle Barossa Wine Chapters Auction, whichthat always garners a lot of interest. Super from Napa and numerous vintages of traditionally includes extraordinarystar burgundies from Domaine Roulet and Chateau d’Yquem, but is anchored by offerings from leading Barossa figuresArmand Rousseau (both Chambertin and an outstanding collection of Bordelaise - unique Barossa “experiences,” asClos de Beze) were snapped up, but it wines, including a 1945 Chateau Lafite- well as great wines selected from theirwas the old favourite of bordeaux that got Rothschild in wonderful condition. I makers’ personal cellars.the bidders going. We had several wines look forward to bringing you the resultsin larger formats with magnums and three- in the next issue. The auction, held this year atlitre bottlings going well. First Growths, Chateau Tanunda on April 21, wasnamely Chateaux Latour and Haut Brion To be the first to hear about auctions presented by the Barossa Grape andwith good case sales and second wines and upcoming catalogues, subscribe Wine Association in conjunction withfrom Carruades de Lafite, Clos du Marquis to our e-newsletter at www.mossgreen- Langton’s. The gala event culminatedand Les Forts de Latour also doing very webbs.co.nz. in a live auction presided over bywell. Case sales in bordeaux, from both Langton’s co-founder and Baron of theLeft and Right banks, were also very Barossa, Andrew Caillard MW.popular in this auction. The highest price paid at the auction was a staggering $62,910 for an CONSIGNING NOWFine & Rare WinesAnnouncing the sale of Fine & Rare Wines at MossgreenWe are delighted to announce a new department devoted to thebuying and selling of Fine & Rare Australian and International Wine.Led by Michael Katoa and Reece Warren, our experienced specialistscome with diverse backgrounds in Viticulture and Oenology.We are now accepting consignments for our upcoming auctions.ContactMichael KatoaHead of Fine & Rare Wines [email protected]+61 3 9508 8888 +61 401 088 214 926 – 930 High Street Armadale VIC 3143 www.mossgreen.com.au62 WinestaWte IANuguEstSAdTveArt.TindEd J1uly/August 2017 31/08/16 1:40 pm

wine investment & collectingImperial (six litres) of 2010 Penfolds Steingarten and St Helga, Peter The oldest wine Langton’s sold wasGrange Shiraz. This was the auction’s Lehmann, Poonawatta, Rieslingfreak, a bottle of the second growth 1911 St-“marquee” item, attracting strong Rileys of Eden Valley, Rolf Binder, Julien Chateau Leoville-Poyferre 1911 forbidding, and ultimately fetching the Saltram, Sons of Eden, Soul Growers, $582.50. Lucille Ball and Ronald Reaganequivalent of $7863 per bottle. St Hallett and Tim Smith. were born in 1911, and if this was a birth year wine, its recipient must be a healthy A notable “Barossa experience” In other recent Langton’s auctions, red wine drinker going on 107.was offered by Michael Twelftree’s the biggest bottle sold (for $4660)Two Hands and sold for $4660. The was a Nebuchadnezzar (15 litres or Finally, the strength of auction resultssuccessful bidder (along with seven 20 bottles) of Armand de Brignac in the spirits category continues toguests) will enjoy a “full day of luxury” Gold Brut - a champagne colloquially astound. Sellers have taken note and- tasting wines in the vineyards where known as “Ace of Spades”, owned by are making offerings of great interest.they originated and lingering over Beyonce’s consort, Jay Z, and currently Buyers are responding, showing aa splendid lunch accompanied by in favour with wealthy entertainment willingness to bid strongly to securesix single-site and four flagship Two industry types. It will take a skilled unique and rare offerings. Just oneHands wines. Guests will take home an team of three just to manage the example: Duncan Taylor “Rarest of theengraved Two Hands tasting glass in its opening and pouring. Rare” Kinclaith Lowlands Single Maltown decorated canister. (50.1 per cent ABV) sold for $1516. Burgundy cult heroes - both white and This whisky was distilled in 1969 and The volume buy of the day was the red - also fetched high prices. 1995 bottled 36 years later (in 2005), byUltimate Eden Valley Riesling Collection Domaine Coche-Dury Les Rougeots, Duncan Taylor, from a single remaining- 81 bottles spread across the 21 Meursault went for $525, showing cask. The Kinclaith distillery itself hadvintages from 1996 to 2016 - which that top producers can overcome closed in 1975. All prices includefetched $4893. lingering concerns over premature buyer’s premium. oxidation among white burgundies. Makers represented were Bethany, 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-ContiDavid Franz, Eden Hall, Eden Mae, Marey Monge, Romanee-St-Vivant, inElderton, Flaxman, Gibson, Heathvale, magnum (1500ml), fetched $4287 - noHeggies, Henschke, Hentley Farm, doubt due to the rarity of DRC wines inHutton Vale Farm, Langmeil, Leo large-format bottles.Buring Leonay, McLeans Farm, Orlando July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 63

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press1997 $80 2005 $651998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $1502001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $1402002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $952003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $1502004 $110 Shiraz2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $2802007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $1602009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/1993 $80 1997 $1901994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $2001995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $6001998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $7001999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,0002002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,0002003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $8502004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,0002005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $4502006 $110 1959 $2,0002007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,6002008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $7064 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160  1996 $2601999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $8502002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $5602008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $9002011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING 1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260Para Liqueur 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $2101878 $2,200  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001879 $2,500  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1880 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $3001881 $1,800  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1882 $1,800  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1887 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $2501893 $1,200  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released1899 $1,200  2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released1901 $700  2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIECuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 95 95 951980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 POINTS POINTS POINTS 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $2201982 $280  1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 65 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONSDEVINE LUNCH SPOT table. There are a range of country platters area, laundry facilities, a dining-in option to be enjoyed on the deck, or mains like with choice of gourmet meals locallyNOT only does the Paulett Wines cellar pepperberry braised duckling stir fry with made, underfloor heating in bathrooms,door offer some of the finest views to be soba noodles, or Moroccan chick pea airconditioning, quality linen, towels andfound in the Clare Valley, it now also boasts salad. Paulett Wines is on Polish Hill River bath robes, and TV/DVD in the living roomnewcomer Bush Devine Cafe. The cafe Rd, Sevenhill; www.paulettwines.com.au. and TV in each bedroom. Irongate studiois inspired by ingredients partly sourced can host up to four guests with two queen-from the adjacent Bush Food Garden, with ART OF RELAXING sized bedrooms each with private ensuite.over 80 different species and 1000 plants. There is a choice of breakfast provisions,Local chef Roger Graham has devised a IRONGATE Studio Bed and Breakfast including bacon, free range eggs, cereals,unique menu to complement Neil Paulett’s in the heritage village of Mintaro is the juice, home-made jams and local honey,diverse range of wines. Chief winemaker former art gallery of well-known artist and an extensive assortment of teas andand proprietor Neil Paulett described the Jen Prior-McDonald, converted into a Nespresso coffee pods. A bottle of Claretransformation of cellar door to incorporate tranquil country getaway. Guests are able Valley wine and a grazing plate are waitinga dining experience as a “dream come to relax and enjoy artworks adorning the for guests on arrival. One couple paystrue”. “The Clare Valley has an enviable walls throughout the B&B, or can order a $295, two couples $445, with a minimumreputation world-wide for quality wines and bespoke piece direct from the artist to take two-night stay on weekends. Irongatemore recently has become a burgeoning home. Irongate Studio is billed as being Studio is also bookable through Airbnb.haven for food and wine experiences,” ideal for relaxing short breaks, holidays Torr St, Mintaro; phone 0498 998 778 orhe says. “We look forward to becoming with family and friends or for celebrating visit www.irongatestudio.com.au.an integral part of this force.” Meals are special occasions. It has been creativelyavailable seven days a week from 11am- transformed from a working art studio to INVESTING IN THE4pm. Bookings are essential, so phone the luxury B&B and boasts full kitchen facilities, COMMUNITYcellar door on (08) 8843 4328 to reserve a an undercover barbecue and entertaining IT IS a case of onwards and upwards for winemaker Kerri Thompson, who left Leasingham Wines in 2006 to start her own business Wines by KT, which was originally called KT and the Falcon. Thompson has opened a new cellar door in an historic 1860s shop in the main street66 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

travelbriefsof pretty Auburn township. Originally a cellar doors - in the Clare Valley and the and create that destination in its own rightjewellery store and then a chemist, and Black Suffolk sheep are not just a novelty. at Pikes, that’s very much our focus formost recently Hop and Vine, the Wines by The flock is used to keep the weeds the next 18 months or two years to getKT cellar door is open on the last weekend down and provide some fertiliser for the that up and running.” The Jeanneretof every month, long weekends and public vines. This small, family-owned operation cellar door, also home to the Clare Valleyholidays. From September 1, marking the is focused on producing premium single Brewery, is in the process of an upgrade,new spring releases, the tasting facility vineyard wines, particularly shiraz, with while Knappstein winemaker, Glennwill be open every weekend leading up to access to fruit from three vineyards across Barry, has also launched his own label,Christmas. Tasting appointments are also the region, and functions using organic Tonic Wines. Julie Barry, meanwhile, isavailable during the week by phoning 0419 principles. The cellar door is at 293 Spring opening her own cellar door for Good855 500. The building is also the new local Gully Rd, Gillentown and is open daily Catholic Girl Wines in Sevenhill. It will beresidence for Thompson and wine writer from 10am-5pm. You’ll be welcomed by called The Vestry tasting room and maypartner Tim White, and their young daughter husband and wife team Mark and Skye be open by the time you read this. FarrellWilla. “Tim saw it on the market and said it Bollen; www.sussexsquire.com.au. Wines is another new label, launched inwould be perfect,” says Thompson. “I fell April, but as yet without a tasting facility.in love with the place; it has great bones. I EXPANDING IDEAS On the dining front, Seed Winehouse &needed a base where people could find me. Kitchen has extended its seating area toI had been meeting people at the vineyard THE times they are a changing in the include outside tables, popular for Friday- not ideal in winter with rain coming in Clare Valley, with regional leaders Pikes night after-work drinks. sideways. It’s an opportunity to get back to having announced plans for a new $1.57face-to-face communication. It’s also nice million visitor centre. “We’re trying to Top left: Vineyard crew at Sussex Squire.to be investing in the community. Auburn build a destination in its own right and Top right: Pikes Wines exterior of cellar door.is a lovely little town; it feels like home.” there’s a lot of stuff we can hang on it - Opposite page top left: Paulett cellar door views.Thompson specialises in rieslings, mostly winery tours, vineyard tours and picnic Middle right: Winemaker Kerri Thompson.sourced from Watervale, but also makes areas, all kinds of stuff where we can add Bottom left: Irongate Studio interior.shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, grenache and value to the tourists that come to Clare,”tempranillo from dry-grown, sustainably Andrew Pike says. The new centre willmanaged vineyards. Wines by KT is at 20 feature a 70-seat restaurant, provedoreMain North Rd, Auburn; www.winesbykt. outlet, new cellar door and a privatecom. wine room at Pikes’ Polish Hill River Estate.“It’s a major exercise for us,” PikeFOLLOW THE FLOCK told the Adelaide Review “but the whole landscape in the Clare Valley, in termsYOU know you are in the country when of food and wine and tourism, is on thea winery’s cellar door attractions include increase. A lot has happened in the lastthe opportunity to pat the sheep. Sussex five to 10 years. “We really think there’sSquire is one of the newest producers - and an opportunity for us to take the next step July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 67

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS111 TASTED62 AWARDEDCLARE VALLEY& SURROUNDING REGIONSHistorically, Clare produces some of the best mid-weight OTHER WHITE Paulett Wineswines in the country with riesling a feature, but also cabernet is VARIETALS & Helmsford Clarepredominant in the varietal mix. BLENDS Valley Semillon Sauvignon BlancRIESLING Red Robin Reserve Leo Buring Clare 13 TASTED 2016 HHH Single Vineyard Riesling 2016 HHH 7 AWARDED A touch tropical on26 TASTED Clare Valley Riesling Pleasant slatey lime-like A group of mixed the flinty nose. Some11 AWARDED 2014 HHHH bouquet with a richer, varietals and blends. stonefruit-like flavours“Generally Powerful aromas; fuller and slightly sweet “Some different interest with crunchy phenolics.disappointing,” said smelling of quinces palate. $19.95 here compared with the $16the judges. “The 2016 with some toasty notes. Reillys Wines classic rieslings of the Taylors Clare Valleyvintage was one of the Ageing nicely with good Watervale Clare region,” said one judge. Chardonnaymost challenging for this mouthcoating flavours Valley Riesling “Some of these have 2016 HHHvariety in Clare,” said and smooth finish. $29 2016 HHH potential and are worth Bright golden wine withone judge. “Although A mix of citrus and persevering with.” toasty lemon butterthe group lacked varietal Glenholme tropical fruit aromas aromas and slightlydepth to get the highest Vineyards Blesing’s with pleasant varietal Skillogalee Wines sweet and silky smoothscores, consumers Garden Southern intensity to the crisp Clare Chardonnay in the mouth. $19will enjoy these easy Flinders Ranges palate. $25 2016 HHH1/2 Eldredge Molliedrinking wines.” Riesling Byrne Reserve Medium-bodied wine Clare Valley 2016 HHH1/2 Clare Valley Riesling with good integration Semillon SauvignonSkillogalee Wines Lime and lemon nose 2016 HHH of tropical/floral varietal Blanc 2016 HHHClare Riesling with a floral lift and Cut hay, stonefruit and fruit, toasty oak and Sweet and simple style.2016 HHHH slight toastiness. Mouth- slightly tropical nose. crisp acidity. Grippy Some green bean-likeUpfront citrus watering fresh pear and Exotic sweet fruit finish. $25.50 aromas and nice linefragrances with a pretty green apple flavours. flavours with a drying of fruit salad flavours.floral lift. Good intensity $18 finish. $28 $20of zesty lemon butter- Pertaringa Regional Paulett Wineslike flavours with a crisp Taylors Winemakers Series Clare Valley Watervale Clareacid finish. $24 Project Clare Valley Riesling 2016 HHH Valley Semillon Riesling Smells of grapefruit with 2016 HHH 2016 HHH1/2 hints of orange blossoms Slight buttery bouquet A pleasant musky touch and has a crunchy chalky with a fruity/floral lift. to the citrus fragrances. palate. $30 Citrussy palate; nice Quite restrained, Andrew Peace structure, texture and slightly angular palate Wines Winemaker’s balance. $23 with balancing acidity. Choice Clare Valley Art Wine Wicked Riesling 2015 HHH Stepmother Single 5+ $25 Pungent nose; almost Vineyard Clare marmalade-like and a Valley Fiano Kirrihill Wines VBBAEULSYUTSE rich rounded palate with 2016 HHH The Entertainer zesty flavours. $18 Pears, quinces and Watervale some fennel on the Riesling 2016 HHH nose and fresh citrussy/ Pungent tropical aromas stonefruit flavours. $25 and a tight crisp and Taylors St Andrews crunchy palate tasting Clare Valley of apples. 3-5 Chardonnay $18 2015 HHH Buttery toasty aromas Taylors Clare Valley with a citrus line. Oak- Riesling 2016 HHH dominated palate but Delicate nose with good depth of fig/melon subtle musky/tropical flavours. $35 fragrances and tasting of crisp green apples. $1968 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

rreeggi oi onnaal l ttaasstti ni nggROSÉ Art Wine The Grace Skillogalee Wines Taylors Special Annie’s Lane The Single Vineyard Clare Malbec Release Clare Valley Locals Polish Hill5 TASTED Clare Valley 2014 HHH Cabernet River Cabernet4 AWARDED Graciano Dark brooding blackberry 2015 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2014 HHHH bouquet and dense, Leafy blackcurrant 2014 HHH“Nice consumer wines The nose is a simple, slightly leafy bouquet and a well- A deep red purple, silkyhere - as good as you combination of red palate with black pepper structured, mid-weight, smooth, cabernet withwill get from any other berries and pencil notes. $42.50 slightly earthy palate great richness of riperegion,” said one judge. shavings oak with a dash with good varietal dark fruit and overt oak. of black pepper. Good GRENACHE & expression. $14.99 $23.99Art Wine The spicy/savoury cherry BLENDSTemptress Single flavour intensity. $30 Taylors Reserve Reillys Wines ClareVineyard Clare Art Wine Leave 4 TASTED Parcel Clare Valley Valley CabernetValley Rosé Your Hat On 1 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon2016 HHH Single Vineyard 2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHHJubey cherry bouquet Clare Valley Generally borderline A nice varietal with Full, rounded, intenselyand a dry, tight and Montepulciano wines here with some pleasant blackcurrant flavoured cabernet withclean palate; hints of 2015 HHH1/2 showing tired fruit aromas and flavours and some drying tanninsguavas, watermelon and Vibrant purple wine, characters. hints of eucalypt and and slightly astringentquinces. $20 jubey sweet dark fruit herbs. Well-structured finish. $25 aromas and dense Greg Cooley Wines palate. $25Claymore Wines sweet juicy palate with Dad & Meads Clare Art Wine CottageWhole Lotta Love big flavours and big Valley Grenache Taylors Clare Valley Block SingleClare Rosé tannins. $45 Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Clare2016 HHH Taylors Clare Valley Powerful oak influence 2015 HHH Valley CabernetFloral strawberry aromas Merlot 2016 HHH on the nose and a good A pleasant lift of leafy Sauvignonand lively fresh cherry Tarry earthy plum fruit weight of fruit and blackcurrant aromas. 2014 HHHpalate with some nose and simple juicy flavour profile on the Nice vibrancy to the A Christmas cake-likeresidual sugar. Good sweet palate with nice dense slightly spicy and well-structured palate. nose and nice, rich, full-tannic grip. $20 weight of clean red fruit earthy palate. $25 Classy tannins. 3-5 flavoured, blackberry and flavours. $19 $19 black pepper palate. $30Skillogalee Wines Taylors Taylor Made CABERNET &Clare Rosé Clare Valley Malbec BLENDS Claymore Wines Greg Cooley2016 HHH 2015 HHH London Calling Clare Wines Rehbein &Almost maroon in colour Dark prune-like 15 TASTED Cabernet Malbec Ryan Clare Valleywith sweet cherry fragrances with a 12 AWARDED 2015 HHH Cabernet Sauvignonfragrances and flavours generous, sweet and A big chocolaty wine. 2014 HHHand hints of dried herbs. juicy intensity of prune Consistent class of Lifted blackcurrant/violet Sweet rich fruit-driven$21.50 flavours. $25 nicely made, dry varietal fragrances. Warming, style with big charry Art Wine Hola wines with appropriate silky smooth, flavoursome black currant charactersGreg Cooley Wines TCG Single use of oak. “Not too palate. $20 and some spiciness. $40Five Year Old’s & Vineyard Clare heavy; just right,” saidDogs Clare Valley Valley Tempranillo one judge. Mad Bastard Wines SHIRAZRosé 2016 HHH Cabernet Franc Clare Cabernet BLENDSA medium-weight, nicely Cabernet Sauvignon Taylors St Andrews Sauvignonbalanced, rosé with Graciano 2014 HHH Clare Valley 2015 HHH 5 TASTEDsimple honeyed aromas Slightly herbal dark fruit Cabernet Sauvignon Nice cabernet with 5 AWARDEDand mouth-watering aromas. Quite light 2014 HHHH blackcurrant characters,flavours. $23 leafy red fruit palate; Nose is an interesting some floral notes A small but strong class warming alcohol and combination of and some licoricey of nice blends.OTHER RED firm tannins. $30 chocolate, Ribena, elements. $50VARIETALS & Mad Bastard Wines spices with some Annie’s Lane TheBLENDS Fat Boy Clare earthiness. Good palate Reillys Wines Locals Watervale Mataro 2014 HHH weight with excellent Barking Mad Clare Shiraz Cabernet14 TASTED Jubey red currant flavour intensity. $65 Valley Cabernet Sauvignon7 AWARDED nose with a medicinal Sauvignon 2014 HHHH element. Rich red Reillys Wines Dry 2014 HHH A fresh, vibrant andA mixed group with fruit palate with slight Land Clare Valley Dark spicy herbaceous generous deep redsome very promising menthol notes. $35 Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, some serious blend. Slightly herbalsigns. “Freshness and 2013 HHHH oak and tightly wound on the nose with silkyflavour is the key and Slight balsamic character tannins. Needs more fruit flavours on a well-keeping the oak tannins to the minty herbaceous time! $20 structured palate. $23.99at an appropriate level,” nose. Good black andcommented one judge. red fruit flavours with grippy tannins and good acidity. $38 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 69

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONSAnnie’s Lane The SHIRAZ Kirrihill Wines Claymore Wines Reillys Wines DryLocals Sevenhill Vineyard Selection Ian Rush Signature Land Clare ValleyShiraz Grenache 28 TASTED Clare Valley Shiraz Series Clare Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH2014 HHHH 14 AWARDED 2015 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 A very big powerfulSavoury balsamic-like Lovely purple hues and A very full, ripe style shiraz with intensecharacters lift off the Very mixed bag! On attractive mulberry/ that’s ageing nicely. concentration of slightlynose and some berry the positive side the plum bouquet. Well- Smells of Christmas jubey, varietal fruit,fruit sweetness evident wines that had the fruit structured palate, nice cake spices and has a characters. $32on the big, vibrant and to express themselves fruit weight and good big, ripe oaky/rich fruitjuicy palate. $23.99 were rewarded with acid backbone. $25 palate. $95 SWEETSkillogalee Wines juicy flavours and nice Art Wine The Kelly Paulett Wines WHITES &Take Two Clare varietal character. On Surrender Single Helmsford Clare FORTIFIEDSShiraz Cabernet the negative side a Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz2015 HHH1/2 number of wines were Valley Shiraz 2016 HHH 1 TASTEDOak a tad overt here overly extracted to get 2014 HHHH Generous jubey 1 AWARDEDwith slightly jammy, but extra flavour along with Dark jammy fruit nose strawberry aromas andvery attractive, cherry- excess oak. with a spicy lift. Bright and flavours. Bright lifted Skillogalee Wineslike fruit characters, fresh in the mouth. Good nose and well-structured Clare Liqueurserious tannins and tight Annie’s Lane length of juicy sweet palate. $16 Muscat NV HHHHacidity. $23.50 The Locals flavours and slightly Em’s Table Organic Lovely complexity ofSussex Squire Wines Watervale Shiraz drying tannins. $30 Clare Shiraz poached pear, raisin andThe Partnership 2014 HHHH1/2 Claymore Wines 2016 HHH Christmas cake aromas.Clare Valley Shiraz Deep purple wine Dark Side of the Still young and Warm, syrupy and veryMataro 2015 HHH with a charry oak nose Moon Clare Shiraz astringent - needs time. flavoursome in theBright raspberry and supporting some nice 2015 HHH1/2 Smells of blackberry mouth. $57.50strawberry-like fruit plum and mulberry fruit Deep red, almost black syrup and has rich juicycharacters with spicy aromas. Big hit of dark in colour with sweet fruit flavours. $19oak, firm tannins and fruit and spicy oak on oaky aromas and subtle Taylors Reservegood acidity. $35 the palate with soft oak characters on the Parcel Clare ValleyAnnie’s Lane tannins. $23.99 dark fruit palate. $25 Shiraz 2015 HHHQuelltaler Watervale Reillys Wines Clare Smells of red apples,Shiraz Cabernet Paulett Wines Polish Valley Shiraz plums and cloves. HintGrenache 2014 HHH Hill River Clare 2014 HHH1/2 of mint on the palate;Sweet generous wine Valley Shiraz Powerful spicy dark sweet mid-palate.with mellow plum 2014 HHHH1/2 fruit bouquet and quite Pleasant drink. $25fragrances and dense Spicy herbaceous dense, rich, oak-driven Stone Bridge Winesconcentration of fresh bouquet with a palate with plenty of Clare Valley Shirazfruit flavours. $28.99 slight floral edge and jubey fruit to match. $25 2013 HHH beautifully balanced, Claymore Wines Chocolaty Christmas elegant and seamlessly Nirvana Clare Shiraz cake nose which integrated palate with 2013 HHH1/2 follows through on to more of the spicy/herbal Spicy chocolaty nose the slightly lean palate. elements. $25 with a savoury edge. Touch drying. $30 Dense fruit-driven Taylors Clare Valley palate; generous and Shiraz 2016 HHHH rich with leathery age Plum aromas with developing. $45 licorice characters and a floral lift. Smooth, fresh and vibrant on the mouth with juicy strawberry flavours. $19JUDGES Alex MacKenzie Mark Solomon Dylan Lee Winemaker for Treasury Scientist with AWRI. Winemaker for Bird in Wine Estates. Previously Member of Technical Hand Wines, for the a winemaker for Annie’s & Quality panel past seven years. He’s Lane, Tintara. Has vintaged of the Institute. vintaged in Northern in Germany, Piedmont Completed the Rhone and Canada, and Chianti (Italy) and Advanced Wine along with Margaret Hermitage (France). Has Assessment Course River, McLaren Vale and judged at the Adelaide Hills/ and Wine Show the Swan Valley. He has Barossa, Victorian wine Judging Course. completed the Australian show and as an associate at Wine Assessment Course the Clare Valley wine show. (AWAC).70 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

GOULBURN VALLEY - VICTORIA [email protected] www.brokenrivervineyards.com.au

94 TASTED69 AWARDEDMERLOT & OTHERBORDEAUX VARIETALSFunny how merlot is often seen as a blender on one hand, yet is also seen at the highest Villa Maria Privateend in very expensive “rightbank” reds like Petrus and LePin. Here we look at a nice Bin Hawkes Bayselection of predominantly Aussie versions (a few of the cheaper French failed to make Merlot 2016 HHHthe cut). Also of interest are the other so-called bordeaux blend varietals of cabernet Dark spicy aromas andfranc, malbec and petit verdot. Of these malbec seemed to create the most interest. a soft supple palate with a nice structure and good line of acid. $15.99 NZMERLOT Sileni Cellar Taylors Clare Valley2016/2015 Selection Hawke’s Merlot 2016 HHH Bay Merlot Lolly-like fruit nose and34 TASTED 2015 HHH1/2 medium weight, sweet Oak-driven nose with fruit, palate with fine24 AWARDED hints of plums. Fleshy drying tannins. $19 in the mouth with lovelyOverall a solid and long varietal fruit flavours Zilzie Wines Estateconsistent group offering and astringent tannins. Australia Merlotnice “drinkability” but, $19.99 2015 HHHapart from a few stand- Richard Hamilton Quite developedouts, not a very exciting Lot 148 McLaren chocolaty bouquet andone. The judges were Vale Merlot a well-rounded palate.pleased at the lack of 2015 HHH1/2 Good flavour intensitygreen fruit and hard Huge colour, complex and length. $10tannic wines which aromas and lovely depth,showed in the results. balance and richness to Thornbury Hawkes the palate with lingering Bay MerlotSileni Estate sweet fruit flavours. $21 2015 HHHSelection Triangle Dandelion Vineyards Smells of blackcurrantHawke’s Bay Merlot Damsel of the with musty notes.2015 HHHHH Barossa Barossa Very grippy palate withHighly concentrated Valley Merlot attractive dark fruitdark berry and plum 2015 HHH1/2 elements. $14.99 NZfruit aromas with Deep earthy aromas;subtle spiciness. Has Beresford Bell Majella some development Due South Greata soft smooth palate Tower McLaren Coonawarra Merlot evident. Nice flesh Southern Merlotthat fills out with very Vale Merlot 2015 HHHH1/2 to the well rounded 2015 HHHrich sweet fruit flavours 2015 HHHH1/2 A different and unusual palate with earthy fruit Lovely oaky aromas withand has a drying tannic Dark plumy fruit savoury character to the sweetness. $27.50 some fruit intensity. Richfinish. $32.99 fragrances and a fleshy, spicy fruit nose. Quite Mollydooker The and silky smooth in the well rounded, palate soft in the mouth with Scooter McLaren mouth. $15 with excellent, slightly nice intensity and length Vale Merlot sweet, varietal fruit of varietal fruit flavours 2015 HHH1/2 Giesen Estate VBBAEULSYUTSE expression and lovely and high acidity. $30 Delicate raspberry notes Hawke’s Bay line of fine tannins. Saint Clair Pioneer to the slightly earthy Merlot $18.99 Block 17 Plateau nose. Soft and supple 2015 HHH Hawke’s Bay Merlot in the mouth with very Very grippy, flavoursome 2015 HHHH1/2 nice flavour profile. $28 style with a savoury Stunning purple colour. nose and good palate Very soft nose with length. $16.99 nuances of plums and spices. An intense Villa Maria Cellar concentration of sweet Selection Organic dark fruit flavours on the Hawkes Bay silky palate. $37.90 NZ Merlot 2015 HHH A classy and elegant deep purple wine full of rich dark fruit and astringent tannins. $17.99 NZ72 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingSt Anne’s Big Rivers Bird in Hand Bird in Hand The Collective McLaren ValeMerlot 2015 HHH Adelaide Hills Nest Egg Adelaide Wine Company It’s III AssociatesFine herbal aromas and Merlot 2015 HHH Hills Merlot Pronounced Mudgee Renaissancesoft dark fruit flavours Inconspicuous spicy 2013 HHHH1/2 Mudgee Merlot McLaren Vale Merloton the lightweight, fruit fragrances and Slight mintiness to the 2014 HHH Cabernet Petitslightly astringent, restrained dark fruit very developed nutty/ Interesting earthy Verdot 2014 HHHHHpalate. $19 palate with toasty oak spicy nose. The palate beetroot characters to Good depth of red huesMyattsfield balance. $40 is smooth, elegant and the nose and some fruit with a pleasant headfulVineyards Manjimup classy with dark fruit intensity on the long of dark fruit and spicyMerlot 2015 HHH MERLOT flavour intensity and palate. $16 aromas. Masses of nicelyHerbal; slightly medicinal 2014 & OLDER fine tannic grip to the focussed and intensenose. Nicely balanced finish. $99 Shottesbrooke flavours with fine tanninsBordeaux style palate 18 TASTED Kendall Jackson Estate Series and slightly warmingwith sweet/sour 12 AWARDED Vintner’s Reserve McLaren Vale alcohol. 5+ $25characters. $20 Sonoma County Merlot 2014 HHHVilla Maria The better wines here USA Merlot A long elegant wine with Esk Valley GimbletPrivate Bin Organic showed the value of 2013 HHHH subtle earthiness to the Gravels WinemakersHawkes Bay Merlot an extra year or two Another classy style. nose and gentle sweet Reserve Hawkes2015 HHH of ageing. “Again very Quite developed nutty/ fruit flavours. $19.99 Bay Merlot MalbecIntense plum and red pleasing to see supple leathery aromas and Cabernet Francberry fragrances and rich and drinkable varietal oodles of very rich, Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignonsilky smooth palate with wines that are not sweet fruit, flavours Pyrenees Merlot 2014 HHHH1/2very tight acidity. $20 trying to be shiraz or and very high level of 2014 HHH Great colour; deepPertaringa Stage cabernets,” noted one tannins. $33.25 Simple briary fruit crimson red. GentleLeft Adelaide judge. Climbing Orange nose with hints of oak. nose - all dark briaryMerlot 2015 HHH Merlot 2014 HHH1/2 Smooth, mellow and fruit. Rich sweet palateSoft dusty aromas and Herbal nose with lighter style of red fruit with long lingeringa smooth and chocolaty savoury complexity palate. $24 flavour persistence,full-bodied style of developing. Soft, smooth mocha notes and grainypalate. $22 and flavoursome on the Stockman’s Ridge tannins. $59.99 NZBellarine Estate mouth with plenty of Rider OrangeJulian’s Bellarine tannins. $24 Merlot 2014 HHH GMH MeritageMerlot 2015 HHH Reilly’s Dry Land Leathery development South AustraliaAttractive gentle berry Clare Valley Merlot evident on the nose and Merlot Cabernetbouquet and soft 2014 HHH1/2 a soft supple palate with Sauvignon Petitsmooth palate with Beefy/Bonox oak-driven good savoury length. $25 Verdot 2014 HHHHquite intense sweet fruit nose with a dark berry Some pungency to theflavours. $23.65 palate that’s fleshy and Babich Winemakers’ spicy fruit nose and aLeconfield soft with a strong tannic Reserve Hawke’s nice fleshiness to theCoonawarra backbone. $29 Bay Merlot rich and well balancedMerlot 2015 HHH ArtWine The Dog 2014 HHH palate. Good tanninSlightly pungent spicy/ House Single An elegant savoury length. 5+ $20herbal nose and nice Vineyard Adelaide style with lovely freshcomplexity and texture Villa Maria Gimblet Hills Merlot spicy varietal fruit, grainy Te Awa Gimbletto the sweet fruit palate. Gravels Reserve 2013 HHH1/2 tannins and astringent Gravels Single$26 Hawkes Bay Merlot Ageing tawny hues and finish. $34.95 Estate Hawkes BayGlenlofty Estate very gentle nutty spicy Merlot CabernetPyrenees Merlot aromas. Smooth and MERLOT Sauvignon2015 HHH creamy mouthfeel to the BLENDS 2014 HHHHReserved smoky very elegant palate. $30 Deep purple hues andsavoury nose and simple Concha Y Toro 14 TASTED a dark fruited nosefine grained palate; a Casillero del Diablo 10 AWARDED showing plenty of oak.tad lightweight - nice Reserva Chile Merlot The palate is smooth, richstructure. $28 2014 HHH The addition of some and balanced with dryingGartelmann Wines Huge briary/raspberry cabernet creates a big tannins. $29.99 NZJoey Orange Merlot nose and lingering lift in structure to the2015 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 fruit sweetness on the merlots. “These blends Babich The PatriarchFresh gamey style Intense purple colour supple well-structured tend to be overlooked Hawke’s Bay Merlotwith wild raspberry and elegant spicy palate. $13.29 against the straight Cabernet Sauvignonfruit characters, very dark fruit aromas with merlots but can often Malbec 2014 HHHHgrippy tannins and tight a big, rich and very offer better quality and Deep red/purple wine.acidity. $30 flavoursome palate - price,” said one judge. A herbal/medicinal nose very classy and still and very classy palate very young with fine - well rounded, rich and drying tannins. 5+ spicy with fleshy dark $49.99 NZ fruit flavours. $79.95 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 73

M E R L OT & OT H E R B O R D E AU X VA R I E TA L SGMH Selection CABERNET Sileni Estate MALBEC & Macho GauchoSouth Australia FRANC & Selection BLENDS Mendoza ArgentinaMerlot Cabernet BLENDS Pacemaker Hawke’s Malbec 2014 HHHHSauvignon Shiraz Bay Cabernet Franc 15 TASTED Savoury smallgoods-2015 HHHH 7 TASTED 2014 HHHH1/2 13 AWARDED like elements on theVery deep red colour 6 AWARDED Delicate nuances of dark nose and a fleshyand very soft oaky nose savoury fruit fragrances The judges found this to palate with coffee/dashed with dark fruits. A small but strong class on the oaky nose and be a solid strong class chocolaty complexityThe palate has depth of interesting varietals good length of raspberry without the overripe, and high level ofand complexity and and blends. “This is a fruit flavours on the stewed mulberry styles tannins. $12.50lovely raspberry fruit variety that has a lot of nicely textured palate. of the past. “These are Saint Clair Pioneerflavour length. $20 potential in the future,” Soft on the finish. interesting, soft and Block 17 PlateauRCV Stoneflower suggested one judge. $36.99 approachable wines Hawke’s Bay MalbecClare Valley Merlot which make you keep 2015 HHHHCabernet Sauvignon Ross Hill Wines coming back,” said one Lovely red/purple hues2014 HHH1/2 Isabelle Orange judge. and a savoury nose thatBonox-like characters to Cabernet Franc has a certain mintiness.the developed nose and Merlot 2015 HHH1/2 Taylor Made Clare The palate is packeda complex, developed Somewhat reserved Valley Malbec with fruit/oak flavours.and grippy palate. nose with hints of 2015 HHHH1/2 Quite a tight finish.“Plenty of interest violets and a finely Very deep red wine with $37.90 NZhere.” $45 structured palate with lovely purple hues. It has Zuccardi punchy sweet fruit a savoury/spicy oak-driven Serie A Valle flavours. 5+ $25 nose and very elegant, de Uco MendozaVidal Anthony tight and youthful palate Argentina MalbecJoseph of Hawkes Sileni Cellar with lashings of lingering 2014 HHH1/2Bay Hawkes Bay Selection Hawke’s varietal fruit flavours. $25 Subdued nose; someMerlot Cabernet Bay Cabernet Franc perfumed notes. LovelySauvignon 2014 HHH1/2 Eldredge Vineyards length of smooth, tasty,2015 HHH Complex dusty mulberry The Reserve jammy flavours. QuiteDark and fleshy on aromas and sweet Clare Malbec warming in the mouth.the nose. Smooth and mulberry fruit palate 2014 HHHH1/2 $16.20rounded in the mouth; with drying tannins. A smooth rounded and Tamburlaine Winesoft on the finish. $20 “Very drinkable!” $24.99 well balanced wine with Lovers Full House fragrant raspberry fruit Orange MalbecBird in Hand Two in Palmer Margaret Ross Hill Wines aromas and delicious Cabernet Francthe Bush Adelaide River Cabernet Pinnacle Series dark fruit flavours with Cabernet SauvignonHills Merlot Franc Merlot Orange Cabernet herbal hints and fine Merlot Petit VerdotCabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH1/2 Franc 2015 HHH drying tannins. “Lots of 2016 HHH2015 HHH A lovely blend; delicious Hints of wild herbs and interest.” $32 Some wild herb-likeAgeing colour, subdued and very elegant and violets lift off the nose. aromas. Mediumdusty bouquet with a smelling of raspberries Lighter flavours with some Rusty Bike The bodied, nicely textured,lovely mellow flavour with some leafy notes. fruit sweetness. $45 Tandem Clare palate. Good sweet fruitprofile. $25 More sweet raspberry Valley Adelaide Hills flavours. $24Chateau Lamothe fruit on the well- Hastwell & Malbec Cabernet Tamburlaine Singlede Haux Cadillac structured palate. Dry Lightfoot McLaren Sauvignon Vineyard OrangeBordeaux France finish. $37.50 Vale Cabernet Franc 2015 HHHH Malbec 2016 HHHMerlot Cabernet 2015 HHH An elegant nose with Just a faint whiff ofSauvignon Cabernet A developed savoury aromas of raspberries and mulberries on the nose;Franc 2014 HHH style with gentle violet briary fruit. The palate is more on the palate. NiceFaint earthy whiff to notes to the nose rich, round and balanced weight and texture. $30the nose and nice and a classy and very and very tasty. Slightpersistence of fruit on flavoursome palate. $25 warming finish. $26the soft gentle palate.$17.09JUDGES Steve Warrick Leigh Francis Dan Traucki Wine marketer with Sensory Research Freelance wine journalist 20 years experience Manager at the with 29 years’ experience in McLaren Vale, Australian Wine in the industry. He has Coonawarra, Adelaide Research Institute evaluated and written Hills and Margaret (AWRI). On AWRI about wines from: Georgia, River. Extensive wine Teaching Advisory Panel Turkey, India, Japan, judging experience at and Technical Quality Greece & Spain as well the Adelaide, Hobart Panel. Associate judge, as innovative (alternative) and McLaren Vale Adelaide wine show. Australian wines. wine shows.74 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingTrivento Tribu Argento Reserva Millbrook RegionalMendoza Argentina Mendoza Argentina Perth Hills PetitMalbec 2015 HHH Malbec 2014 HHH Verdot 2014 HHH1/2Attractive earthiness Gentle savoury aromas An elegant wine withto the mulberry nose. and a very classy palate very attractive darkFleshy sweetness on with superb, supple, ripe sweet plumy fruitthe silky smooth palate. fruit flavours. $27.99 showing eucalypt$9.50 elements and a fine PETIT VERDOT tannic grip. $22Zolo Mendoza & BLENDS The CollectiveArgentina Malbec Wine Company2015 HHH 6 TASTED It’s PronouncedA complex medley of 4 AWARDED Mudgee Left Bankfruity aromas and coffee- Mudgee Petit Verdotlike complexity to the A mixed group with less Cabernet Sauvignondark fruit palate. $24.99 of the “four by two” oak Merlot 2015 HHH planks seen in the past. Delicate pine needle-likeTamburlaine Reserve Piedra Negra A good variety for warm aromas. Elegant palateOrange Malbec Reserve Mendoza regions because of the that’s silky smooth,2015 HHH Argentina Malbec variety’s retained acidity. complex and quiteA bright purple, mid- 2014 HHH astringent. $16weight, style of merlot Slight menthol bouquet Whistling Kite Gartelmann Wineswith soft aromas and and super smooth, Biodynamic Rylstone Mudgeeplenty of flavours. $44 svelte, raspberry palate Riverland Petit Petit Verdot with hints of coffee Verdot 2014 HHHH 2015 HHH beans. $9.99 Nose shouts of vibrant Good varietal aromas dark fruits. Plenty of and smooth, not too varietal fruit flavours on tannic, palate with an the long, nicely textured, astringent finish. $38 palate. Subtle use of oak. Good tannins. $38Swirl it. Swish it. 12$ 99Or just drink it. eaOur Tudor wines boast more than 4 x Trophies,4 x SIWC Blue Gold Top 100, 3 x Gold and 10 x Silvermedals between them. Made in cool climateVictoria, they are a favourite of experts as wellas everyday wine drinkers.Exclusive to ALDI. Available every day. ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18. Available in selected stores. See aldi.com.au for locations. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 75

314 TASTED223 AWARDEDCABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSAn excellent tasting of King cabernet wines where varietal Andrew Peace CABERNET &character gives great interest. There are possibly more diverse Wines Masterpeace BLENDScharacters in any one wine than any other variety, ranging from Victoria Cabernet $15-$20lean and herbaceous cool climate styles to ripe and opulent Sauvignon Petit 2016/2015cases and mulberry styles. However, with some exceptions, you Verdot 2016 HHHdo get what you pay for with the variety. A nice clean varietal with 24 TASTED lovely purple hues, soft nose and fresh youthful 18 AWARDED red fruit palate. $13CABERNET & Hardys Crest South Rymill Striking Very consistentBLENDS Eastern Australia Colt Coonawarra dependable group.UNDER $10 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon “Here we see a bit more 2015 HHH 2015 HHH varietal character and12 TASTED Dense herbal-like Deep red wine with weight,” said one judge.4 AWARDED bouquet and a soft soft herbal bouquet and plump palate with light big rich flavoursomeThe judges agreed that mulberry flavours. $7 palate with a touch ofat this price point these tar. $12wines are technically CABERNET &well crafted but in BLENDS Shingleback Redgeneral lacked weight $10-$15 Knot McLaren Valeand a few used sugar Cabernet Sauvignonrather than fruit. “Even 21 TASTED 2015 HHHfor the cost conscious 7 AWARDED Nose of red, black andthere is something spicy fruit and a darkreasonable to drink “At this price we want grippy berry palate withhere,” said one judge. to see fresh primary some chocolaty notes. fruit rather than tired $14.95Berton Vineyards examples,” saidHead Over Heels The Pond South one judge. “Some Taylors SpecialSEA Cabernet Eastern Australia winemakers here are Release Clare ValleyMerlot 2016 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon using old oak which Cabernet SauvignonVibrant meaty/herbal 2015 HHH is detracting from the 2015 HHHbouquet. Smooth and Earthy cranberry aromas quality rather than Earthy nose with atasty in the mouth with and a light bright and adding to it.” The better herbal edge. Attractivea hint of oak sweetness. fresh palate with good wines were worth the dark cherry palate with$8 fruit/tannin balance. couple of extra dollars. sweet cedary oak in the $6.99 background. $14.99 570 Vines The Evans & Tate Seafarer South Western Australia Chateau Grand Brygon VBBAEULSYUTSE Eastern Australia Cabernet Merlot Meynau Bordeaux Reserve Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH France Cabernet Signature 2015 HHH Flavoursome style Blend 2014 HHH Series Coonawarra Medicinal notes to the with dark berry fruit Very soft spicy fruit Cabernet Sauvignon nose and a lightweight characters balanced nose and well-rounded 2015 HHHH red fruit palate with ripe with the attractive dusty gentle palate with firm Sweet aromatic lift tannins. $7 cedary oak and has good mouthcoating tannins. to the complex nose. tannins on the finish. Needs time. $11.39 Dark fruit flavours with $13 Santa Julia Reserva tarry/licorice characters Etiqueta Blanca developing. Good use Mendoza Argentina of old and new oak. Cabernet Sauvignon $18.99 2013 HHH Complex aromas; a hint Pure Vision Organic of menthol with savoury South Australia flavours and subtle Cabernet Sauvignon toasty oak. $14.30 2016 HHH1/2 A young, primary fruit driven wine with a gentle meaty/black fruit bouquet and a bright berry fresh palate. $1576 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingDue South Great The CollectiveSouthern Cabernet Millon Estate TheSauvignon Impressionist Clare2015 HHH1/2 Valley CabernetRipe varietal characters Sauvignonon the nose with herbal 2015 HHHtouches and leathery Developing brambly/notes. Slightly stewed floral bouquet and a richfruit characters on the oak-driven palate thatpalate. $15 has some elegance.Moss Brothers $15Margaret RiverCabernet Merlot Wine for VBBAEULSYUTSE2015 HHH1/2 Yoga LoversNice cassis fruit Langhorne Creekpower here with slight Cabernet Sauvignonmedicinal notes, some 2015 HHHearthiness and a slight Dried herbal notesmetallic-like element. on the red fruit nose$19.99 with quite a big,Earthworks Barossa concentrated, palate forCabernet Sauvignon the price. $162016 HHHGood varietal nose; Mt. Monster pulpitcellars.com.ausome complexity Limestone Coastdeveloping. Dark brambly Cabernet Sauvignon Over 18,000 uniquefruit flavours; oak nicely 2015 HHH and premium winesin check. $16 A savoury styleAndrew Peace cabernet with a touchWines Winemaker’s of soy and some leafyChoice Langhorne hints. Ready for drinkingCreek Cabernet now. $16.95Sauvignon2016 HHH Berton VineyardsStalky green fruit Reserve Coonawarrabouquet with herbal Cabernet 2015 HHHnotes. Dark berry palate Has some power andand caramel notes from drive with attractive darkthe oak. $18 fruit and sweet aromaticAnnie’s Lane oak. Needs time. $17Harvest CottageAdelaide Cabernet Brygon ReserveShiraz Merlot Wines Lions2015 HHH Lair Western VBBAEULSYUTSEOak-driven aromas; Australiaslight Bordeaux-like Cabernet Sauvignoncharacters. Masses of 2015 HHHsweet plum flavours. Nicely focussed$15 varietal fruit charactersPure Vision Organic of blueberries andSouth Australia currants with oak in theCabernet Sauvignon background. $18.992015 HHHSavoury meaty style Brygon Reservewith slightly herbal Wines Martha’saromas and some Lane Coonawarrasweetness on the mid- Cabernet Sauvignonpalate. $15 2015 HHH Ripe, dark and tarry. Quite developed for its age. Oak provides roasted nutty flavours. Drink now. $18.99Taylors One Small St Anne’s PericootaStep South Australia Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHH2015 HHH Straightforward,Pronounced Ribena-like genuine, cabernetaromas with medicinal aromas and flavourstouches. Interesting with leathery/nuttysweet/savoury flavours. complexity developing.$15 $19 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 77

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSTaylors Clare Valley CABERNET & Koonowla Coldstream Hills TheCabernet Sauvignon BLENDS Ringmaster Clare Hills Yarra Valley2015 HHH $15-$20 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet MerlotInteresting nose; dusty 2014 & OLDER 2014 HHH 2013 HHHcedary oak and blue Red/black fruit aromas; Riper developed fruitplum fruit. Simple, tasty 14 TASTED some toffee and characters with goodand balanced palate. leathery elements. use of oak and the acid$19 11 AWARDED Complex fruit/oak flavour keeping the wine alive. integration. $15 $19 Another consistent Houghton Haselgrove Wines class of easy drinkers. Margaret River First Cut McLaren Pleasing to see these Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet older vintages holding 2014 HHH Sauvignon up well. A few bordered Varietal blue fruit 2013 HHH on being oak dominant bouquet which follows A classy ripe fruit nose for the lightness of the through on to the with long, lingering fruit. focussed palate. Soft sweet red plum flavours tannins. $16 and drying finish. $19 d’Arenberg The High Trellis McLaren Vale K & S Tolley Sister’s Olivia VBBAEULSYUTSE Cabernet Sauvignon Run Coonawarra Coonawarra 2014 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet A nicely crafted wine 2014 HHH Sauvignon with a great ripe fruit Medium intensity 2013 HHH Angas & Bremer nose, but not porty, and aromas and lightweight Interesting mineral Langhorne Creek a pronounced varietal palate with slightly tart characters to the oak Cabernet Sauvignon fruit palate that’s packed notes. Good level of dominated aromas. 2015 HHHH1/2 with flavour and nicely acidity. $18 Mellow fruit/oak Bright red wine with ripe balanced by the well- flavours. $19.95 fruit aromas sitting on handled oak. $18 McGuigan top of the oak. SeamlessBlackstone Paddock The Pioneers CABERNET & integration of juicy ripeMargaret River Paxton The Vale Coonawarra BLENDS dried fruit characters andCabernet Sauvignon Biodynamic McLaren Cabernet Sauvignon $20-$25 the silky smooth oak.2015 HHH Vale Cabernet 2013 HHH 2016/2015 Grippy tannins and goodSweet roasted nut and Sauvignon Still very youthful acidity. $20caramel aromas with a 2013 HHH1/2 and very grippy style 18 TASTED GMH Meritagegentle berry fruit palate. Amazing colour, savoury with Ribena/roasted South AustraliaGood acid and tannins. nuances to the sweet nut characters. Good 12 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon$19.99 fruit nose and plenty of tannins. $17 Merlot Malbec sweet fruit/sweet oak 2015 HHH1/2 flavours. A good drink! Shearer’s VBBAEULSYUTSE “The top wines are Savoury aromas with $18 Hill Premium fine but some didn’t herbal notes and sweet Langhorne deliver at this price,” dark berry fruit flavours Clarence Hill Creek Cabernet commented one judge. with cedary oak adding Adelaide Cabernet Sauvignon “Are some of these complexity. $20 Sauvignon 2013 HHH being dragged down by Penley Estate 2014 HHH Complexity of dark fruits old oak or some lesser Phoenix Coonawarra Earthy fruit aromas; and dried herb aromas. blending material?” Cabernet Sauvignon hints of tea leaves. Tastes of dark berries, 2015 HHH1/2 Palate still very tight coffee and roasted nuts. An elegant melange of with sound sweet red $18 blackcurrant, olive, spice berry flavours. $15 and coffee characters. Very classy aromas and flavours. $20JUDGES - DAY 1 Jeremy Maxwell Dan Traucki Winery manager Freelance wine journalist Dave Matthews at Maxwell Wines. with 29 years’ experience Formerly Winemaker Previously vintaged in the industry. He has at Rosemount and in Sonoma Valley, evaluated and written Boar’s Rock and Stellenbosch, Campagnia about wines from: Georgia, Group Winemaker and Rhone Valley. Locally Turkey, India, Japan, for Treasury Wine vintaged at Wirra Wirra Greece & Spain as well Estates. Vintages in and d’Arenberg. Has as innovative (alternative) Tuscany and California. completed the AWEC Australian wines. Judged in Australia and and WSET course with overseas. Currently distinctions. with Francois Freres group of cooperages.78 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingJacob’s Creek Pertaringa Brygon Koonowla Clare Heirloom VineyardsBarossa Signature Understudy McLaren Reserve Winess Cabernet Sauvignon CoonawarraBarossa Cabernet Vale Cabernet Hummingbird 2005 HHHH1/2 Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Sauvignon Margaret River Beautifully complex 2014 HHH2015 HHH 2015 HHH Cabernet Shiraz floral fruit fragrances Good varietal charactersMellow aromas of red Quite a ripe Merlot 2015 HHH with slight mintiness. evident here withand black fruits with half confectionery style with The wine is a complexity Elegant seamlessly nice oak use. “Hassavoury and half sweet a fruity bouquet and very of dark fruit, olives integrated flavours of drinkability.” $22flavours. $20 tasty varietal palate. $22 and coffee characters. varietal fruit and cedary Haselgrove WinesPenley Estate Nice nose and lovely oak. “Many more years First Cut McLarenGryphon Blass Reserve mouthfeel. $24.99 in it yet!” $22 Vale CabernetCoonawarra Langhorne Creek Sandalford Margaret SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon CABERNET & River Range 2014 HHHMerlot Cabernet 2015 HHH BLENDS Margaret River Soft smooth wine withFranc 2015 HHH Funky earthy characters $20-$25 Cabernet Merlot briary, black/red fruits“One for the lovers on the nose and 2014 & OLDER 2014 HHH1/2 and dried herbs. Grippyof oak!” but there is pleasant lifted minty Very dense briary fruit/ tannic finish. $23enough fruit power chocolaty flavours. $24 17 TASTED toasty oak nose. Red Shingleback Daveyto cope. Needs time. 13 AWARDED fruit sweetness on the Estate Reserve Brygon rich, balanced palate McLaren Vale 3-5 $20 Reserve Winess A solid class with some with subtle tannins. Cabernet SauvignonJip Jip Rocks Hummingbird stand-outs, including $20 2014 HHHPadthaway Cabernet Margaret River some nicer older wines. Katnook Squire’s Subtle floral cranberrySauvignon Cabernet Merlot “There is more powerful Blend Coonawarra bouquet and balanced2015 HHH 2015 HHH fruit expression creeping Cabernet Merlot bright fruit palate withQuite pungent and spicy Estery fruit fragrances in with the best showing 2014 HHH mouthcoating tannins.on the nose with a silky and silky smooth in the balance.” Unusual herbal/red fruit $23.50smooth and flavoursome mouth with pleasant aromas and simple, Annie’s Lane Theearthy palate. $20.95 varietal palate. $24.99 but well focussed and Locals Polish HillRichard Hamilton flavoursome palate. River CabernetHut Block McLaren Brygon Reserve $20 SauvignonVale Cabernet Winess The Bruce Jip Jip Rocks 2014 HHHSauvignon Margaret River Padthaway Cabernet Dense purple fruit,2015 HHH Cabernet Merlot Glenlofty Pyrenees Sauvignon coffee bean and toastySubtle nuances of berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH aromas. A savoury beefyfragrances with delicate 2015 HHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Well-made wine - palate with ‘roasted’dark fruit and olive-like Nose not giving much smooth, toasty and flavours. $23.99flavours. $21 away and has a tight, Mature inviting balanced with savoury complexity of black fruit fruit, ripe herbs and austere and tannic aromas balanced with sweet oak. $20.95 palate. Needs time to soften. 3-5 $24.99 smart oak. Soft, smooth and silky in the mouth with lovely aged tarry/ cedary/olive flavour profile. 3-5 $22smart business travel. made easy. Australia’s most awarded Travel Agency | Dedicated Business CONTACT US FOR A CONSULTATION Travel Consultant | 24/7 Assistance | Competitive corporate phone 1800 220 029 & discount airfares | Competitive hotel programs Australia wide enquiries welcomed July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 79

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSChateau CABERNET & Saint Clair PremiumChantemerle Cru BLENDS Hawke’s BayBourgeois Medoc $25-$30 Cabernet MerlotFrance Cabernet 2016/2015 2015 HHHHBlend 2012 HHH A very long, very smartA mature and very 23 TASTED style showing plenty ofelegant, light bodied, 23 AWARDED fresh lifted varietal fruitbut complex blend with great use of oak towith austere greenish A great consistent class, balance. Finishes sweet.flavours. $22.79 clearly a big step-up inReschke Bull flavour intensity with 3-5 $26.50 NZTrader Coonawarra “proper oak use”,Cabernet Merlot noted one judge. Forester Estate2008 HHH “We’ve stepped in to Margaret RiverVery soft and smooth. a new category where Cabernet SauvignonLooking younger than winemakers can afford 2015 HHHHit is. A confectionery to use better oak and Beautifully perfumedsweet amalgam of fruit fruit.” blackcurrant nose andand oak. $23 great varietal flavoursKoonowla Clare with some complexityCabernet Sauvignon developing. Needs time2006 HHH to fully integrate. $28Some pungency to thenose and a very smooth, Zonte’s Footstep Beresford Classic Mollydooker Themature and completely Avalon Tree Fleurieu McLaren Vale Maitre D’ McLarenintegrated palate. $22 Peninsula Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Vale CabernetBrand’s Laira Sauvignon 2015 HHHH1/2 SauvignonMarching Captain 2015 HHHH1/2 Lovely aromas sitting in 2015 HHHHCoonawarra A lively style of cabernet the plum fruit spectrum Soft, earthy, cranberryCabernet Sauvignon with delicate nuances and oodles of flavour bouquet and a bigMerlot 2012 HHH of savoury/earthy with the sweet oak mouthful of chocolatyGreat colour, gentle characters on the nose poking through the flavours laced with berryprune aromas and and a dark savoury varietal fruit. Needs fruits and powerful oakcomplex mouthful tannins. $28of ripe fruit and oakflavours. $20 palate with soft plum more time to settle Saint Clair James and sweet roasted oak down. 5+ $28.99 flavours. 3-5 $25 Sinclair Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Merlot Taylors Reserve 2015 HHHH Wolf Blass Gold Parcel Clare Valley Very good wine. Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH Interesting mellow Soft black fruit fragrances with some 2015 HHHH1/2 fragrances with herbal meaty depth and nicely A delightful nose of red hints. Nice balance fruits and herbs with very between savoury and focussed and generous sweet flavours with fruit flavours. 3-5 pronounced tarry/dark some leafy notes on the $28 NZ cherry flavours on the palate. $25 very tightly coiled palate. Needs more time to Pepperjack Barossa integrate. 5+ $28 Cabernet Sauvignon Vinrock McLaren 2015 HHHH Vale Cabernet Good depth of colour Sauvignon and fresh vibrant aromas 2015 HHHH with an elegant palate Intense blackcurrant but there is plenty of bouquet with a subtle power to it and has coffee edge. The palate “superb flavours”. has good depth and $29.99 complexity with some power and length. $25JUDGES - DAY 2 Natalie Cleghorn Bernard Hickin Winemaker with the Chief winemaker, Orlando Jacques Lurton Yalumba Wine Co since Wines. Has been with the One of the amazing 1998. Associate judge company for over 30 years world-wide Lurton at the Barossa Wine as group white, red and French family of Show, Stanthorpe sparkling winemaker. Judge winemakers. He first Small Winemakers and at the 2009 Melbourne vintaged at McWilliams Adelaide wine show. wine show. in Griffith in 1984, then established himself at his own vineyard, The Islander Estate in Kangaroo Island.80 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingFiretail Margaret Sidewood Adelaide CABERNET & Hastwell & Lightfoot Thorn-ClarkeRiver Cabernet Hills Cabernet BLENDS McLaren Vale Shotfire QuartageSauvignon Sauvignon $25-$30 Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Cabernet2016 HHH1/2 2016 HHH 2014 & OLDER 2013 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon CabernetGood depth of fruit and Tight, young and grippy “A highly strung wine.” Franc Petit Verdotsome oak on the nose. wine with fragrant 24 TASTED Black fruits and smoky Merlot 2014 HHHHTight, restrained palate sweet varietal fruit and 22 AWARDED oak on the nose. A very nicely integratedwith spicy fragrant red balancing acidity. $26 Another highly Elegant, but complex, savoury style that isfruit flavours. $27.50 consistent group. blackcurrant /olive somewhat dark andHamilton Block Jester Hill Wines “Some monster wines palate. Very powerful, gritty with cedaryCoonawarra Touchstone Granite here showing flavour satin smooth, tannins. complexity. GreatCabernet Sauvignon Belt Cabernet and structure,” said one weight, power and2015 HHH1/2 Sauvignon judge. “The 2013s were 5+ $25 length. $27Shy nose; hints of 2016 HHH bigger and need timeoak. Masses of well Elegant mulberry whilst the 2014s were d’Arenberg The Malone Wrattonbullyfocussed dark fruit/ bouquet with nicely more approachable.” Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignonsoy-like flavours. Good structured palate Another judge McLaren Vale 2014 HHHHtannins -not too grippy. showing some commented on excess Cabernet Sauvignon Lovely mix of cranberry mintiness. $28 oak use in some wines. Merlot Petit Verdot and raspberry aromas. 3-5 $25 2013 HHHH1/2 Very powerful fruitStage Door Wine Co. Kirrihill Wines A huge wine, excellent palate with toasty,Full House Barossa Montara Grampians Vineyard Selection colour with lots of oak roasted, caramel oak.Cabernet Sauvignon Victoria Cabernet Tullymore Vineyard soaking up the dark berry/ Needs more time.2015 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Clare Valley olive fruit charactersHerbal green tea-like 2015 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon and supported by very 5+ $28aromas. Big juicy palate Slight greenness to the 2013 HHHHH powerful tannins. Needswith hints of sweet/sour nose and a balanced, An outstanding more time. 5+ $29 Mandalay Lindsay’sflavours and good oak sweet and simple palate cabernet with excellent Folly Geographecharacters. $25 with subtle tannins. $25 varietal fruit integrity. Cabernet SauvignonTaylors Winemakers Delicate lifted perfumed Shiraz 2014 HHHHProject Clare Valley Sanguine Estate bouquet with classy oak An oak-driven blend thatCabernet Sauvignon Heathcote evident. Plum and some has lingering length and2015 HHH1/2 Cabernets prune characters on the balance with very goodBig, dense, beefy 2015 HHH chocolaty palate. weight of vibrant varietalbouquet and full Smells of Bonox with fruit sitting underneath.smooth palate with subtle fruity notes and 5+ $25 $29.99classy fruit/cedar oak has a balanced, wellflavours and powerful integrated, sweet berry Firetail Margaretgrainy tannins. $25 palate. $25 River CabernetLeconfield SauvignonCoonawarra Wicks Estate 2014 HHH1/2Cabernet Merlot Adelaide Hills Youthful colour; still has2015 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon purple hues. DelicateYouthful fruity aromas 2015 HHH blue fruit aromas. Niceand a powerful, velvety Beefy bouquet; a hint varietal flavours with finesmooth, cranberry fruit of greenness. Dark, mouthcoating tannins.palate with some sweet/ brooding and slightlysour characters. $26 green palate. Needs more 3-5 $27.50Brygon ReserveWines Third Wheel time. 3-5 $25 Blass NoirReserve Margaret CoonawarraRiver Cabernet Dandelion Vineyards Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Pride of the Fleurieu Jacob’s Creek 2014 HHH1/22015 HHH1/2 Fleurieu Peninsula Double Barrel Earthy herbal noseA savoury nose with Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra with hints of coffee.a stalky green edge 2015 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Concentrated dark plumand nice core of dark A lighter style. Dark 2014 HHHH power to the palate. Afruit flavours on the berry and blood plum A classy wine with a tad medicinal. Needsattractive, slightly fruit characters with fruity nose and sweet time. 5+ $28austere, palate. $29.99 mouthcoating tannins. dark berry palate with savoury/olive- like McGuigan 3-5 $27.50 elements and some The Shortlist attractive minerality. $25 Coonawarra Maygars Hill Taylors Winemakers Cabernet Sauvignon Strathbogie Project Clare Valley 2013 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Nice nose with pungent 2015 HHH Merlot Malbec complexity. Savoury Vibrant young wine Cabernet Franc palate; good integration with an estery nose 2014 HHHH of the fruit and oak and light bright palate More oak than fruit on with a lively line of acid. with lifted sweet oak the nose with a smooth, and red fruit. $28 rich and flavoursome 3-5 $29 palate that has a big hit of sweet oak on the mid-palate. $25 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 81

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSZema Estate Mandalay Annie’s Lane Penfolds Bin 8Coonawarra Persimmon Paddock Winemaker’s South AustraliaCabernet Sauvignon Geographe Cabernet Selection Clare Cabernet Shiraz2013 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Valley Cabernet 2014 HHHNose more green and 2014 HHH Sauvignon Cabernet Quite developed aromasmedicinal than fruity. Simple red plum/cherry Franc Merlot Shiraz and a dark fleshy palatePalate still tight and varietal characters with Petit Verdot with good savoury length.grippy with good depth oak in the background 2014 HHHH Very complex. $30of fruit and beefy and tight tannins. $29.99 Lovely dark purple colourcomplexity. 3-5 with a cassis/menthol Penley Estate$29.92 1847 Wines Barrel bouquet and very Tolmer Coonawarra 88 South Australia intense, well integrated Cabernet Sauvignond’Arenberg The Cabernet Sauvignon flavours with an 2014 HHHGalvo Garage 2013 HHH astringent drying finish. Muted savoury fruitMcLaren Vale Complex combination $30.99 fragrances and aAdelaide Hills of tar, licorice and prune Morambro Creek slightly grippy palateCabernet Sauvignon characters with hints of Padthaway Cabernet with subtle varietal fruitMerlot Petit Verdot tobacco oak. $25 Sauvignon expression. $302012 HHH1/2 2014 HHHHBlue fruit, cedar and Firetail Margaret Berries and coffee beans Kings of Kangarooroasted nut aromas. River Cabernet lift off the nose and Ground TheHuge musky fruit palate; Sauvignon has excellent length Pedersen Yarramassive ripe tannins. 2012 HHH of cassis fruit flavours Valley Heathcote“Could take years to Complex aged aromas layered with chocolaty Cabernet Sauvignonsettle.” 5+ $29 and developed red fruit/ ArtWine Feral characters. $34.95 2013 HHH oak palate that has a Farmer Clare Valley Kings of Kangaroo A cassis/raspberryTrevelen Farm sweet lift. Drink now. Adelaide Hills Ground The nose and an elegant,The Tunney Great $27.50 Cabernets Merlot Pederson Heathcote perfumed and well-Southern Cabernet 2015 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon structured blackcurrantSauvignon Angas Plains Estate Nose developing nutty/ 2015 HHH1/2 palate. $302014 HHH PJs Langhorne leathery aged notes. Firmly structured winePowerful estery plum Creek Cabernet Hints of sweetness on with restrained dark Punters Cornerand berry fruit aromas Sauvignon the beautifully balanced fruit characters, some Reserve Coonawarrawith soft pleasant berry/ 2014 HHH palate. Great flavours; sweetness and high Cabernet Sauvignonoak flavours. $25 Leathery, tarry, nose. hint of coffee. $30 level of tannins. $30 2013 HHH Red berry fruit and sweet Gartelmann Wines Rockcliffe Single Elegant but complexChurch Road aromatic oak on an acid- Phillip Alexander Site Great Southern aged bouquet andMcDonald Series driven palate. $25 Mudgee Rylstone Cabernet Sauvignon velvety smooth, lingeringHawkes Bay Cabernet Merlot 2015 HHH1/2 fruit, flavours. $32Cabernet Sauvignon CABERNET & 2015 HHHH A smooth rich wine with2014 HHH BLENDS Very gentle, reserved plenty of flavour. Quite CABERNET &A complex nose with $30-$35 bouquet with good an intense dark fruit BLENDSan elegant and well concentration of dark nose and layers of berry $35-$40balanced palate that has 18 TASTED fruit flavours on the fruit on the palate. $30a tight acid finish. $25 15 AWARDED complex and seamlessly Mistletoe Reserve 32 TASTED balanced palate. $30 Hilltops Cabernet 31 AWARDEDJack Estate A solid class and a step Wangolina Single SauvignonCoonawarra up in quality for the few Vineyard Mt Benson 2015 HHH1/2 Excellent class ofCabernet Sauvignon extra dollars. “These are Cabernet Sauvignon Lifted earthy mulberry amazingly consistent2014 HHH a lot more seamlessly 2015 HHHH aromas and great varietal wines, a cut above theA gentle, medium balanced than previous Strong purple hues and fruit with good oak to average. “Strong fruitweight, fruit-driven categories whilst plenty of blackberry balance on a nicely and tannins here andstyle but the oak is retaining freshness aromas with lovely textured palate. $32 built to live,” said onethere. More of a dry red and vitality,” noted one varietal fruit on the Rockcliffe Third judge. These shonestyle. $25 judge. nicely structured, well Reef Great Southern across all vintages; balanced palate. Fine Cabernet Sauvignon a very strong priceYaldara Ruban Bream Creek tannins. $30 2015 HHH point for consumers toBarossa Valley Tasmania Taylors Jaraman Savoury dark fruit consider.Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Merlot Clare Valley characters on the noseShiraz 2014 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra and palate with smoothPleasant ripe red berry Quite complex and Cabernet Sauvignon chocolaty notes. $30varietal fruit characters developed dark fruit 2014 HHHHwith sweet vanillin oak aromas with a medicinal A classy, elegant andsitting on top. $25 touch. Plenty of acid and well balanced cabernet high level of tannins on with attractive red andWilloughby Bridge the integrated palate black fruit characters andHeathcote Cabernet will improve further with somewhat astringentSauvignon more cellaring. $34 tannins. $302014 HHHInteresting nose; sweetand floral. Pleasant varietalflavours in the lighter leafyspectrum. $2982 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingSaltram Mamre Saint Clair Pioneer Brygon Reserve Millbrook WineryBrook Barossa Block 17 Plateau Wines Epitome Estate Perth HillsCabernet Sauvignon Hawke’s Bay Margaret River Cabernets2014 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Shiraz 2014 HHHHQuite intense dark fruit 2015 HHHH Merlot 2015 HHHH Coffee-like bouquet andbouquet with chocolaty A lovely complexity of Quite a pungent bouquet long well-structuredlayers. Excellent length varietal fruit and oak with a perfumed fruity palate. Nice chocolaty/and concentration of fragrances and a very lift. Good length of coffee flavours withvarietal fruit flavours rich concentration of sweet fruit flavours. Nice raspberry and mulberrygiving a big mouthful of flavours on the drying palate texture; some fruits underneath. $35flavour. “Very classy.” tannic palate. $37.90 NZ astringency. $39.99 Penfolds Max’s$37.88 Domaine Asmara Majella Coonawarra South AustraliaSaint Clair Pioneer Reserve Heathcote Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonBlock 17 Plateau Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHHHawke’s Bay 2015 HHHH Beautiful cabernet A complex fusion ofCabernet Merlot An interesting and aromas - all leafy and cassis and mulberry2014 HHHH1/2 different nose of dusty. Nicely structured fruit aromas and a veryPowerful nose; a perfumed confectionery palate with masses of elegant palate that’s richcomplexity of dark fruit, fruit. Rich palate with hint flavour and plenty of and smooth with coffeeoak and spices. Soft and of fruit sweetness and chocolaty oak. $35 bean elements. $35easy in the mouth and high level of tannins. $39tasting of blackcurrants Reillys Wines Dryand spicy oak. Still Land Clare Valleyshowing nice freshness. Cabernet Sauvignon$37.90 NZ 2014 HHHH1/2 Lovely ripe and nicely concentrated raspberry/ mulberry-like varietal fruit. Some spiciness to the nose and lovely texture and length to the silky smooth palate. $38 Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH A grippy cabernet showing masses of bright red/purple colours and excellent intensity of dark fruit aromas and flavours. $35New Releases Cabernet Central & Western NSW Gartelmann Wines Tastings Tastings Tastings from NSW’s premier regions www.gartelmann.com.au July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 83

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSPalmer Wines The Domaine Asmara Saltram Mamre Woody Nook Single Babich IrongateGrandee Margaret Reserve Heathcote Brook Barossa Vineyard Margaret Hawke’s BayRiver Cabernets Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH 2012 HHHH Sauvignon Merlot CabernetWell integrated, grippy Slight mocha characters Subtle, developed, dark 2013 HHH1/2 Franc 2015 HHHwine holding up well. to the nose and big, fruit fragrances and A developed savoury A very gentle nose and aPowerful pungent sweet, mouthful of long, lingering, leafy bouquet with a light-bodied palate withbouquet and clean well- mulberry and black blackcurrant flavours on medicinal note. Simple, mild earthy raspberrystructured palate. Good fruit flavours with nice the very well-structured sweet briary fruit flavours. $39.95varietal fruit. $37.50 crunchy finish. $39 palate. $37.88 expression on theBarristers Block Brash Vineyard pleasant palate. $35 Sirromet WinesSingle Vineyard Single Vineyard Kopparossa Estate Saltram Mamre Signature CollectionWrattonbully Margaret River Coonawarra Brook Barossa Granite BeltCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH 2008 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHHDark mulberry varietal A dusty leafy varietal Complex maturing A big wine with big Subdued savouryfruit is soft on the nose cabernet with interesting coffee/blackcurrant colour and big aromas! aromas and a well-and offers lovely weight aromas and a nicely nose. Still has plenty of The tight and very grippy structured palateto the long sweet palate. structured palate that sweet fruit flavours with palate has a simple with light varietal fruitDrying tannins and an has a lovely integrated good acid backbone and varietal flavour profile. flavours. $35acid finish. $38 flavour profile. $39.95 obvious tannins. $35 $37.88 Pepperjack Premium Loch Village Majella Coonawarra Wills Domain Single Cut South Australia Vineyard Gippsland Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Block Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHH 3 Margaret River 2013 HHHH 2016 HHH1/2 Lovely berry fruit nose; Cabernet Sauvignon Deep purple wine. Spicy varietal fruit some development 2014 HHH Plenty of wild raspberry- aromas and a soft and evident. Soft and Subtle nose; a violet lift like aromas and a rich seamlessly balanced rounded in the mouth. and a leafy edge. Has concentration of fruit palate with good Lots of acidity. $35 chocolaty/blackcurrant flavours on the elegant concentration of Taltarni Estate flavours and some well balanced palate. $35 fresh blackcurrant-like Pyrenees Cabernet sweetness. $36 flavours. $35 Sauvignon Kopparossa Estate Chain of Ponds 2015 HHH Warrenmang Grand Coonawarra Amadeus Adelaide Excellent varietal fruit Pyrenees Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon Hills Cabernet expression here. Very Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 HHHH Sauvignon gentle aromas and nicely Cabernet Franc Great colour for its 2015 HHH1/2 integrated flavours. $35 Merlot Shiraz age with nice intensity A raspberry fruit nose Top Note Adelaide 2012 HHH of dark cabernet fruit with a slight menthol lift. Hills Cabernet Quite a beefy nose with showing a savoury edge Lots of fruit lingering on Sauvignon maturing raspberry fruit and developing nicely. the minty palate. A very 2015 HHH flavours. Quite a hot Plenty of life in it yet. $35 flavoursome wine. $35 Strawberry-like varietal finish. Starting to dry fruit characters with out. $35 well-handled oak and a slight drying finish. $35 CABERNET & Tatalia Wines BLENDS Heathcote Cabernet $40-$45 Sauvignon 2015 HHH 20 TASTED A simple style, still quite 9 AWARDED fresh with attractive plum/raspberry fruit and A mixed result with very tight tannins. $36 balance an issue. A Gartelmann Wines number lacked sweet Jonathon Mudgee fruit flavours and were Rylstone Cabernet smashed with strong Sauvignon tannins; either from 2015 HHH grapes or oak. The An acid-driven cabernet better wines here with a freshness of showed nice cassis mulberry-like varietal overtones along with fruit showing a savoury juicy licorice and edge. $38 blackberry varietal flavours.84 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tastingTamburlaine Reserve Eden Hall Block Haselgrove Wines CABERNET & Wolf Blass GreyOrange Cabernet 3 Eden Valley Protector McLaren BLENDS Label LanghorneSauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet $45-$50 Creek Cabernet2015 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH Sauvignon Shiraz 2013 HHHHHA lovely rich fruit-driven Smells of licorice and 2015 HHH 19 TASTED A restrained and maturestyle that has excellent blue fruits with slight Projects leafy dark fruit 8 AWARDED savoury-like nosevarietal fruit expression, earthiness. Lovely aromas and has a robust with an elegant palategreat structure, a touch mouthfilling sweet fruit savoury palate. “A serious Some excellent wines showing great structureof oak, a lively acid flavours. A touch simple wine.” 5+ $40 here but as a group and showing a lovelybackbone and robust and still youthful. $40 these were generally complexity and depth oftannins. $44 1847 Wines Grand Taltarni Old Block disappointing. Too sweet cassis flavours. Pappy’s Gold Pyrenees Cabernet many wines were dull,Bird in Hand Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon forward and developed 5+ $49Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Shiraz 2015 HHH in character. Surprisingly K1 by Geoff HardyCabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH1/2 Very attractive licorice there seemed to be less Adelaide Hills2015 HHHH Warm ripe aromas with characters on the nose fruit depth overall. “Are Cabernet SauvignonLovely concentration of a violet lift. A rich and and a warm inviting winemakers confusing 2015 HHHHdark berry, licorice and fully structured palate sweet fruit palate. Time. wood age with quality?” Fresh cassis aromasBonox aromas. Savoury with enough shiraz to with a eucalypt edge.cassis palate. Very good offer some warmth. 5+ $40 Very varietal palate that’s soft, sweet and easy totannin structure. “A 3-5 $40 Pertaringa Rifle drink. “A serious wine.”sleeper.” 5+ $40 Church Road Grand & Hunt Adelaide Reserve Hawkes Cabernet Sauvignon 3-5 $45Pertaringa Rifle Bay Cabernet Merlot 2014 HHH& Hunt Adelaide 2013 HHH1/2 Mature and restrained;Cabernet Sauvignon Nose has ripe, some sweet cassis fruit2015 HHHH rich plum/menthol and savoury chocolatyA lovely wine that complexity. Soft and characters. Nice tannins.has structure and sweet in the mouth.generosity with good Still quite tannic with 3-5 $40 hints of chocolate.combination of fruity/savoury characters. 3-5 $42Drink now or in thefuture. 5+ $40 delivering everything our clients demand, on every matter. As leaders in commercial law in South Australia, DW Fox Tucker has the capability and outstanding breadth of experience to assist with your commercial needs and objectives of any size or complexity, delivered with responsive and personal service. Experience the difference at DW Fox Tucker, where every client matters. L14, 100 King William Street, Adelaide, SA 5000 p: 08 8124 1811 w: dwfoxtucker.com.au COMMERCIAL I CORPORATE I DISPUTES I INSOLVENCY I TAX I HOSPITALITY I IP I PROPERTY ENERGY I RESOURCES I EMPLOYMENT I WORKERS COMPENSATION I SELF INSURANCE July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 85

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS Penley Estate Mad Bastard Clare Chertsey Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2015 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Very youthful wine - Cabernet Franc some varietal fruit and Merlot 2014 HHH1/2 serious amount of oak Developed licorice with drying tannins. $50 nose. Sweet blackberry and plum flavours on a Shaw Family soft, simple and refined Vintners RMS palate with a savoury McLaren Vale edge. $45 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH Possingham & Mature complex Summers CA aromas. Up-front fruit Summers Signature sweetness on the McLaren Vale palate develops into Cabernet Sauvignon oaky notes. 3-5 2012 HHH $50 Super rich, generousMollydooker wine; a pungent mix St Hugo Coonawarra Jack Estate Reillys WinesGigglepot McLaren of Bonox, licorice and Cabernet Sauvignon Mythology Premium DryVale Cabernet cassis with some 2015 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra Land Clare ValleySauvignon earthiness. $45 Lovely deep crimson Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2015 HHHH wine with purple hues. 2013 HHHH 2012 HHHA lovely elegant style Zema Estate Rich aromas; some oak A very ripe oak-driven Perfumed/violet bouquet;of cabernet with a lifted Family Selection and pretty violet notes. wine with a developed some oyster shell and Coonawarra “The palate is still a woody/leathery nose. sea spray touches and Cabernet Sauvignon baby but shows class.” Palate shows nice varietal a zippy varietal palate. 2012 HHH Excellent oak, fruit fruit characters - both Evolving aromas and and tannin integration. sweet and sharp. $55 3-5 $50 very savoury palate withchocolate cake of a nose rich tannins. “Very good 5+ $58 CABERNET &and a sweet varietal fruit for a 5-year-old.” $45.95 BLENDSpalate that is soft in the $60-$80mouth. 3-5 $49 CABERNET & BLENDS 19 TASTEDWolf Blass Grey $50-$60 McGuiganLabel Langhorne The Shortlist 13 AWARDEDCreek Cabernet 19 TASTED CoonawarraShiraz 2014 HHHH 9 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon “These wines needA classic cool climate 2007 HHHH time and some air,”cabernet. Lovely Mixed bag! “Some Complex but restrained said one judge. A strongcrimson colour, rich plum wines here were aromas with an earthy class with the 2014sbouquet and a big soft developed or had lift. Very soft palate; zesty showing through well.palate with a bold line of sulphur issues which is and fresh and showing “I would love to seeoak. 5+ $49 inexcusable at this price lovely varietal fruit and some of these wines point,” declared one tobacco oak. $50 in five years’ time,”Penley Estate judge. “Winemakers said another. “MostScottburn should be careful about Stage Door Wine here are great ageingCoonawarra using old oak barrels Co. Eden Valley propositions.”Cabernet Shiraz which can create Cabernet Sauvignon2014 HHH1/2 problems of freshness.” 2015 HHH1/2 Taylors St AndrewsA very earthy nose and Subdued nose and an Clare Valleysome attractive sweet oak dominated palate Cabernet Sauvignoncassis flavours on the with up-front sweet 2014 HHHHHdrying, and somewhat, dark fruit characters. Fruity fresh fragrancesgrippy palate. $45 Still has plenty of layered with young oak acidity. 3-5 $50 and with a pretty violet lift. Palate is typical of Shingleback D Block Craigie Knowe the 2014 vintage; quite Reserve McLaren Tasmania Cabernet tight but has a very Vale Cabernet Sauvignon good fruit/oak balance. Sauvignon 2015 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Pretty wine with 5+ $70 Fresh plum bouquet youthful, stalky, aromas with sweet notes, some and a freshness of violets and hints of sea violets and plums on the spray. The long soft lean palate. $50 palate shows plenty of plums, prunes and chewy tannins. 3-5 $5586 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tasting Woody Nook Vidal Legacy Brygon Reserve Gallagher’s Choice Gimblett Gravels Wines Small Batch Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Margaret River 2014 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Aromas of black fruits and 2015 HHH1/2 2013 HHHH1/2 violets with fresh woody Fresh blue fruits on Mature fruit aromas notes. Classic varietal the nose with clean mingle with toasty oak flavours, tight acid and medicinal notes. Palate and show a herbal/ rich tannins. Just needs is light but shows lovely eucalypt edge. Palate time. 5+ $69.99 NZ fruit and oak balance. is quite big and tannic with intense varietal Blue Pyrenees 3-5 $75 flavours. Good acidity. Estate Richardson Curtis Family Pyrenees Cabernet Vineyards Cavaliere 5+ $65 Sauvignon McLaren Vale 2013 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon d’Arenberg The Some cassis fruit 2015 HHH Coppermine Road and fresh oak on the Big heavy old school McLaren Vale nose. Very structured style; ripe and warm and Cabernet Sauvignon palate; tight and firm almost shiraz-like. $70 2014 HHHH with sweet fruit and Wills Domain Cuveé Lovely crimson colour leaf litter notes. Time! d Élevage Margaret with a suggestion of River Cabernet black fruits on the 5+ $60 Sauvignon nose. Masses of oak 2013 HHHSt Hugo Private Deep Woods Estate on the palate with Alkoomi Icon Range Bold, ripe and rich - allCollection Reserve Margaret oak with some light fruitCoonawarra River Cabernet some rich sweet Blackbutt Frankland and very sweet tannins.Cabernet Sauvignon plums. 5+ $65 River Cabernet2012 HHHHH Sauvignon Sauvignon Malbec 3-5 $75Complex closed nose 2014 HHHH1/2- needs air to show its Lovely elegant Cabernet Francleafy peppery cassis Merlot 2010 HHHHfruit. A rich ‘complete’ cabernet - very varietal. A classic old worldpalate that has delicious Nose has some cedary/dark berry fruit, well- vanilla elements and style with lovely freshhandled oak and tannins. blackcurrant and violet some sweetness on varietal characters. Still 3-5 $65 the berry palate with toasty oak and grippy tight with nicely rounded tannins. 3-5 $62 finish. 5+ $65 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 87

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSBrown Brothers Saltram Edward CABERNET & Wolf Blass BlackPatricia Victoria Salter Barossa BLENDS Label LanghorneCabernet Sauvignon Valley Cabernet $100-$200 Creek McLaren2012 HHH Sauvignon Vale Barossa ValleyLeafy menthol aromas 2012 HHHHH 13 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignonwith developed notes. Lifted pungent aromas 12 AWARDED Shiraz MalbecLightweight leafy palate. with hints of sea 2013 HHHHHTannins still grippy. $65 breezes and violets. An excellent, consistent Powerful, beautifully Palate has structure, line class of great varietal evolved, deep purplePatrick of and length and shows wines. “This is a class wine. Slight pungencyCoonawarra Limited licorice, leafiness and that puts shiraz back to the cassis nose andCellar Release Home violet characters. Lovely in its place,” enthused lovely full-bodied palateBlock Coonawarra rich tannins. $99 one judge. “Here we with vibrant, sweetCabernet Sauvignon Jacob’s Creek see the great balance cassis flavours and silky2006 HHH Bungalow Lane of great fruit and great tannins. 3-5 $130Leafy and leathery on Barossa Cabernet oak selected from coolthe nose and a zippy Sauvignon climate regions andleafy varietal palate. 2014 HHHH1/2 made for longevity.”Lovely food wine. $65 Obvious oak on the nose with a complexity Ross Hill Wines Deep Woods Estate McGuigan TheCABERNET & of cassis and plum fruit. The Griffin Grand Selection Philosophy SouthBLENDS Beautifully structured Orange Cabernet ‘Yallingup’ Margaret Australia Cabernet$80-$100 palate has varietal fruit Sauvignon Merlot River Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz and assertive tannins. Cabernet Franc Sauvignon 2013 HHHHH9 TASTED Tight style; needs lots of 2013 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHHH Closed restrained nose7 AWARDED time. $82 Earthy, vegetal “A very serious wine,” that smells of “rain characters on the nose. on asphalt!” thoughtAs expected; a very Majella The Palate has plenty of one judge. Warm andstrong class from a small Malleea by Majella “zip and spark” with powerful in the mouthgroup. “Barossa is noted Coonawarra well-balanced fruit, with some “grippiness”.for its shiraz, but every Cabernet Shiraz tannins and acid and “The tannins arefew years they make 2013 HHHH1/2 some attractive violet lovely,” said another.cracker cabernets,” said Cedary aromas with characters. $95one judge. “Margaret lovely cassis/blackberry Fermoy Estate 5+ $150River and Coonawarra fruit to balance. Nice Reserve Margaretcontinue to do well with zippy, medium bodied, River Cabernet according to one Wolf Blass Blackthis variety but watch palate full of sweet berry Sauvignon judge. Lifted, leafy andout for Adelaide Hills!” fruit, plums, vanilla and 2015 HHHH slightly green aromas Label Langhorne cedar oak. $80 A big bold fruit-driven Creek McLaren ValeBird in Hand Nest cabernet with a sweetEgg Adelaide Hills licorice bouquet andCabernet Sauvignon cassis fruit flavours laced2013 HHHHH with delicate tannins. AAn elegant, well serious wine. $85made wine with a Jacob’s Creeklovely herbal, cassis, Bungalow Lanepeppercorn bouquet and Barossa Caberneta beautifully balanced Sauvignonpalate with lovely sweet 2013 HHH1/2cassis fruit flavours and A lovely varietal bouquetdelicious tannins. $99 with violet nuances and a dense woody/blue fruit palate with some chewy with hints of violets. Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. $82 The palate is vibrant, pungent and very Shiraz Malbec 2012 HHHHH varietal with assertive A big wine with big fruit tannins. 5+ $130 and big oak. Slightly closed but complex aromas. Great cool climate-like structure to the palate with blackberry fruit flavour intensity and soft tannins. 5+ $13088 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tasting Reschke Empyrean Patrick of Bird in Hand Marie Coonawarra Coonawarra Grande Elizabeth Adelaide Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Coonawarra Hills Cabernet 2010 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Evolved, dark fruit 2002 HHHH 2013 HHHHH bouquet and a big, Dry floral fragrances; a “Such a very well sweet, cassis fruit complexity of truffles, balanced, elegant and palate that has lovely cigar box and some red long wine with lots length and structure fruits. Lovely palate, of fruit,” according to with creamy caramel still has some primary one judge. The nose characters on the finish. fruit with a third tier of is all blackberries and flavours. $125 chocolate. The palate is 5+ $150 a generosity of fruit and Patrick of Gralyn Reserve oak. 5+ $350 Coonawarra Grande Margaret River Taylors The Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Visionary Clare Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH1/2 Valley Cabernet 2010 HHHH Dark and inky on the Sauvignon Very intense and very nose. Soft and rounded 2013 HHHH1/2 cabernet. Lovely oak in the mouth with A beautifully evolved sits on top of leafy, mouthfilling sweet cabernet. “It’s warm all violet and cassis fruit cassis flavours and ripe over,” said one judge. characters. Has umami tannins. 5+ $120 Some cooked fruit and soy elements. characters on the noseMcGuigan The CABERNET & Chateau Haut Brion and toasty caramel andPhilosophy South 5+ $125 BLENDS Premier Grand dried fruit flavours onAustralia Cabernet Reschke Empyrean $200+ Cru Classe Pessac the palate. $200Sauvignon Shiraz Coonawarra Leognan Cabernet2010 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon 12 TASTED Blend 2011 HHHHH Gralyn Margaret“Alive and lovely,” 2008 HHHH Beautifully evolving River Cabernetenthused one judge. Has Dense porty/chocolaty 9 AWARDED aromas of caramel, Sauvignonelements of blueberries, wine - a lovely example white chocolate and 2004 HHHH1/2beetroot and mulberries of an aged cabernet. Still A great, but licorice. Very bright and A tight, old world, coolon the nose. Blackberry showing good varietal controversial class, with lively in the mouth with climate cabernet with answeetness on the fruit laced with tertiary brettanomyces a great good oak structure and evolved and open oak/palate, good tannin notes. $150 cause for concern! some plum fruit. Needs cassis bouquet. Velvetylength with a light finish. Overall there were some more time in the cellar. smooth in the mouth Patrick of outstanding wines that with great acidity and 5+ $150 Coonawarra Grande were, according to one 3-5 $1,270 intense, dry, flavourWills Domain Cuveé Reserve Coonawarra judge, “a pleasure to St Hugo Vetus profile. $350d Élevage Matrix Cabernet Sauvignon judge and argue about,” Purum CoonawarraMargaret River 2006 HHHH but in the view of the Cabernet SauvignonCabernets A toffee/caramel great interest in these 2013 HHHHH2014 HHHH1/2 bouquet with subtle fruit world class wines we Bright crimson hues andMixed aromas of fresh pushing through. Palate are taking the unusual a bold, slightly porty noseblack fruits and good still has some cassis and step of talking about with medicinal nuances.oak. Delicious, soft and leafy flavours with a rich the non-recommended Masses of rich sweetsweet in the mouth tannic structure. $125 wines and can reveal cassis flavours on thewith the oak tending that the $1,300 Chateau seamlessly structuredto dominate the long Lafite 2012 scored just palate. Needs air forlingering flavours. two stars and the 2011 maximum enjoyment. Chateau Les Forts De 5+ $100 Latour at $390 also only 5+ $240 managed two stars with brett the major issue for both these wines. “I don’t understand why these great name wines are full of brett,” said winemaker and judge Jacques Lurton. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 89

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.auChateau LatourPremier Grand CruClasse PauillacFrance CabernetBlend 2011 HHHHCrimson red wine withheavy, slightly “pongy”aromas. Palate issavoury and drying withsweet fruit and cedaryoak and some brettinfluence. $1,560Reschke EmpyreanCoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon2004 HHHHBeautiful toasty oaknotes on the nose. Thedark fruit palate is quitelean and tight and stillvery fresh with manyyears left. 5+$280Reschke EmpyreanCoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon2002 HHHHRipe, aged andrestrained bouquet.Some dried floralfragrances and a tightand complex palate withsweet cassis fruit andgreat acidity. $300Reschke Empyrean GIFT SUBSCRIPTIONCoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon Tel: 08 8357 92772006 HHH www.winestate.com.auAn evolved, woodyand well structured,classic. Some cookedcharacters on the noseand sweetness in themouth. $22090 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

varietal tasting

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINMcLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK,FLEURIEU PENINSULA & SURROUNDSDELI DELIVERS choice.” Think dishes like reuben sandwich “Every tour experience is unique and we with pastrami on toasted rye with grilled believe passengers are more self-reliantTHE team at Wirra Wirra has been surprised Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, baby spinach and and resourceful than ever before, enablingand delighted by the positive reaction to seeded mustard, or the Son of Trott Pie, lamb, them to decide which venues they wantits Harry’s Deli casual eatery, opened last shiraz and kalamata olive topped with flaky to visit on a tour, where they have lunchyear. “Harry’s Deli, our cafe, is going from pastry. Wirra Wirra is on the corner of Strout and how long they stay at each stop, andstrength to strength and has quickly become and McMurtrie roads, McLaren Vale; phone TrailHopper allows them to become mastersone of the busiest and most popular lunch (08) 8323 8414 or visit www.wirrawirra.com. of their wine-tasting destiny.” Whether theydestinations in the region,” says GM Andrew are travelling solo or in a group, TrailHopperKay. Harry’s Deli offers casual dining inside HOP-ON, HOP-OFF SERVICE allows guests to share wine experiences,a refurbished cellar door space and in the learn about the regions and create uniquecourtyard overlooking gardens and vines. MCLAREN Vale is one of three South memories with passionate people from allThe menu showcases regional produce Australian regions (along with the Barossa walks of life. With a bit of planning, assistedin seasonal platters, salads and panini, and Adelaide Hills) to be serviced by by the timetable and online info, passengersall accompanied by a selection of Wirra TrailHopper, the only capital city-based can tour their own way. Since its soft launchWirra wines. It is open Monday-Saturday hop-on, hop-off wine tour company in in 2016, TrailHopper now has a team of10am-4pm and 11am-4pm on Sundays and Australia. TrailHoppers is the brain child seven, operating two buses which run 10public holidays. Harry’s Deli takes its name of local Adelaide duo Matthew Hodge and tours every week. Tours start from $39.95from a much-loved McLaren Vale character Kristian Phipps. Visitors simply book online and buses travel to two regions per dayHarry Kilaitis, who was a gifted carpenter and hop aboard at the city stop at Stamford from Thursdays to Mondays. “Given weand spent many of his days working out Plaza on North Tce. The airconditioned have been awarded the status of a ‘Greatof Sparrow’s Lodge at Wirra Wirra. “Before 21-seater buses are driven by locals, who Wine Capital of the World’, it is essentialHarry passed away, we honoured him by even let guests choose the tunes. The we make visiting the wine regions of SAnaming a room at the winery Harry’s Library,” buses drop travellers off and pick up at accessible and affordable,” said Hodge.Kay says. “He was quite humbled by this the wineries of their choice. Hodge said: “TrailHopper offers guests the opportunity toand we had a lovely low-key celebration withhim and his beloved wife Fay. That space,built with Harry’s own hands, has now beentransformed into our cafe. When it cameto naming rights there really was no other92 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

travelbriefsvisit three wine regions and over 50 wineries, like beef tartare, smoked mulloway clam the interior fit out, filling the building with wall-and whether you drink wine or not, there’s chowder, char-grilled dry aged rump with to-wall artwork, a wine inhalation room, twosomething for everyone with each tour French mustard and morcilla with pepper, virtual fermenters and a plethora of sensoryoffering a great selection of wineries and broccolini and herb sauce. The General experiences. d’Arenberg has receivedvenues at which to taste and explore - with is open 10am-5pm Monday-Thursday, assistance from a $2 million South Australianno designated driver required!” Phone (08) 10am-late on Friday and 10am-5pm at State Government Regional Development8271 4485 or visit www.TrailHopper.com.au. weekends; phone (08) 8383 0667 or visit Fund grant which will support the core www.thegeneralwinebar.com.au. Also structure building construction, internal fit-GENERAL MAKES A STAND new in McLaren Vale is popular artisan out, equipment and car park development. pizzeria, Pizzateca, open Friday, Saturday A time-lapse camera, installed on theMr RIGGS Wines has a new home at The and Sunday, and operated by V. Mitolo and property by Logic Films, takes an updatedGeneral Wine Bar & Kitchen at 55a Main Son Wines. You’ll find it at 319 Chalk Hill photograph every 10 minutes to capture theRd, McLaren Flat. The new facility is a Rd, McLaren Vale; phone (08) 8323 9762. building progress. It can be viewed at www.collaborative venture between Mr Riggs darenberg.com.au/cube.Wine Co and Zonte’s Footstep, with the CUBE CULTURElong-term aim to create a McLaren Flat DOCTOR IN THE DISTRICTdrawcard providing locals, visitors and wine THE landscape of McLaren Vale will belovers alike with an interesting food and wine changed forever when innovative d’Arenberg DOC Adams Wines opened its new cellar doorexperience that delivers on both wineries’ Wines completes the construction of its facility late last year, boasting a family-friendlypassion for “being”. The building marks the futuristic five-storey, multi-use building the atmosphere set among McLaren Vale vinesnew generation of a former general store. d’Arenberg Cube later this year. d’Arenberg and Australian bushland at 276 California Rd,Originally built around 1910, the building has released an updated artist’s impression Tatachilla. Tastings are available every dayoperated as the McLaren Flat Post office of the Cube, showcasing its external features and wines can be purchased by the glassafter opening. Changing shape and form which include the recent addition of rooftop or bottle to partner a range of platters thatover the years, it eventually became the umbrellas. Spanning almost the entire can be custom designed. Options includegeneral store, a hub for McLaren Flat locals surface area of the glass roof will be 16 cheeses, dips, cured meats, antipasto, bread,and in 2014 was transformed into the Home umbrellas, 15 black and one red, with crackers, dried fruit and smallgoods, whileGrain, also now revamped. The General’s hydraulically operated mechanical arms non-wine drinkers can enjoy Doc’s Lager. Forkitchen is led by chef Ben Sommariva, lifting each of them in a choreographed those with children there is a large lawn areaformerly of the The Kitchen Door Restaurant sequence of movement. Fourth-generation and the tasting facility is open seven days aand Fino’s at Willunga. His two-course family member and chief winemaker Chester week 11am-5pm. Managing director Adamdaily menu features house-made dishes Osborn had the idea to build the d’Arenberg Jacobs said: “We are excited to now have Cube over 13 years ago and has been a home in the heart of McLaren Vale where refining the plans ever since. “The umbrellas we can share and showcase our premium are being installed to shelter the building from wines with local produce in a unique and the sun beaming through the clear glass engaging environment. It’s another step in roof,” he said. “Due to building regulations, our developing engagement with international no more that 5 per cent skylight is permitted, and local customers.” Phone (08) 8185 7039 and so I needed to meet regulations while or visit www.docadamswines.com.au. also having a bit of fun, in true d’Arenberg style.” Each umbrella is electrically operated Top: Artist’s impression of the d’Arenberg Cube. and retractable, enabling them to fold in and Left: The General Wine bar & Kitchen. lie down when not in use. The umbrellas can Above right: Doc Adams new cellar door exterior. also operate independently, with each set in Opposite page top right: Trailhopper bus tours. four quarters. Osborn continues to work on Opposite page bottom left: Harry’s Deli at Wirra Wirra. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 93

200 TASTED169 AWARDEDMcLAREN VALE“Always a pleasure!” This phrase could well be used to describe Chalk Hill Ingoldby McLarenthe wines from this well endowed region that delivers flavour in McLaren Vale Vale Chardonnayspades. This year was no exception with big and bold shiraz again Fiano 2016 HHH 2016 HHH1/2a feature, along with arguably the best grenache wines in the Good green apple Nose is a complexity ofcountry. But also don’t dismiss the cabernet based wines often varietal aromatics with melons, peaches andrelegated to a lesser position due to the dominance of shiraz. those characters echoed tropical fruit. Good clean on the long warming fruity flavours on the drySPARKLING Beresford McLaren OTHER WHITE palate. $25 crisp palate. $20RED Vale Sparkling VARIETALS & Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 BLENDS Mr Riggs Mrs. Geoff Merrill4 TASTED Smells of the forest McLaren Vale Reserve McLaren3 AWARDED floor with some fresh 5 TASTED Viognier 2015 HHH Vale Chardonnay mushrooms and has a 4 AWARDED Light apricot bouquet 2014 HHH1/2A small solid class chocolate pudding of a with smoky/flinty Subtle oak creaminessof complex, but also palate. Slightly drying Interesting group of elements on the palate on the nose. Softdeveloped, wines with tannins. 3-5 wines. and dried apricot balanced palate withmore “leather” than $28.99 flavours. $25 good melon fruit weightvibrancy. Good value at 1838 Reserve and light use of oak.these prices. Mr Riggs Battle McLaren Vale CHARDONNAY Axe McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc 3-5 $322 Mates McLaren Sparkling Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 4 TASTEDVale Sparkling NV HHH Light grassy/hay aromas 3 AWARDED ROSÉShiraz NV HHHH1/2 Ethereal dark fruit with delicate varietalBig powerful mature fragrances with a flavours reminiscent Nice depth of fruit here 3 TASTEDaromas and a massive minty lift and drier style of Lantana and has in these wines with 2 AWARDEDpalate with an abundance palate with nice simple soft acid on the finish. appropriate use of oak toof rich chocolaty dark flavours. 3-5 $25 $13.99 balance. A couple of wines worthfruit flavours with a looking at.liqueur-like note and Dowie Doole Estate Beresford Classicleathery development. McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shingleback Red Chenin Blanc Chardonnay Knot McLaren Vale 3-5 $25 2016 HHH 2015 HHHH Rosé 2016 HHH Light dusty lemon Slightly developed Fresh light raspberry fragrances and tropical fruit aromas fragrances and a dry, simple crisp palate with a hint of oak and a savoury palate with with peppery melon powerful, full-flavoured, simple flavours and crisp characters. $19.99 tropical palate sitting on finish. $14.95 top of the oak. $21.99 Geoff Merrill Bush Vine McLaren Vale Grenache Rosé 2016 HHH Light sweet strawberry nose with similar characters echoed on the crunchy dry palate. $20JUDGES Peter Kennedy Nick Haselgrove Rob Ruediger Winemaker for Winestate’s 2010 Orchard Wine Estates. Ekhidna Wines. Australian Winemaker Wine consultant. Formerly Formerly with Foggo of the Year. Winemaker/ senior production winemaker Wines and Brothers Director of Adelaide at Accolade Wines (Hardy in Arms wineries; Winemakers. Former Wine Company) involving all following ten years chief winemaker at varieties and styles. Wine in liquor retail. Haselgrove Wines. judge at Brisbane wine show. Has vintaged in St. A ‘flying winemaker’ Emilion and judged from 1993-95. Judge in Perth and regional at Hobart for 3 years wine shows. and associate judge at Adelaide in 1996-97.94 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingOTHER RED Dyson 38 McLaren Geoff Merrill Rouleur McLaren Three Dark HorsesVARIETALS & Vale Sangiovese Wickham Park Vale Grenache McLaren ValeBLENDS 2015 HHH McLaren Vale Merlot 2016 HHHH Grenache Quince fruit characters 2010 HHH Earthy characters to the 2016 HHH1/212 TASTED on the nose with Interesting aged fruit cedary blue fruit nose Youthful yet complex powerful spicy varietal aromas and nicely and has clean simple with spicy varietal7 AWARDED flavours on a soft palate. evolved complexity to flavours. Smooth in the fragrances and big the developed varietal mouth with some lovely ripe jammy palate 3-5 $30 palate. $28 soft tannins. $32 with a powerful tannicA mixed bag of Hand Crafted GRENACHE & Vinrock McLaren structure. 3-5 $25alternative varieties. “If by Geoff Hardy BLENDSyou are going to make McLaren Vale Nero Vale G.S.M. Pertaringa Twoan alternative varietal D’Avola 2015 HHH 27 TASTED 2015 HHHH Gentlemen’syou need to understand Dusty forest floor aromas 25 AWARDED Fresh fruit and spices McLaren Vale G.S.M.the variety and not make and a big flavoursome on the nose with more 2015 HHH1/2it like a mainstream varietal palate with fresh fruit characters Attractive, elegant,red,” advised one judge. powerful tannin structure. evident on the weighty red berry bouquet and“The better wines here palate. Tannins slightly slightly developed spicyshowed just that; an 3-5 $30 “Is this the world’s best drying. 3-5 $25 flavours supported byunderstanding of the region for grenache?” the soft tannins.variety.” McLaren Vale This line up shows III Associates great intensity of flavour Shaw Family 3-5 $22 Senora Jean Single across the board. Few Vintners Rusty Vineyard McLaren would be disappointed Plough McLaren Maxwell Four Roads Vale Tempranillo with any of these wines. Vale Grenache Old Vine McLaren 2015 HHH 2014 HHHH Vale Grenached’Arenberg The Subtle fragrances with Nice depth of spicy 2015 HHH1/2Conscious Biosphere hints of red cherries and briary fruit fragrances Nice blue fruit aromasMcLaren Vale Petit good spicy flavours on and attractive varietal with forest floor-likeSirah Aglianico the palate. 5+ $35 Arakoon Vale Cru fruit flavours with malty- complexity and very2014 HHHH Full Bodied Red like development andClosed brooding dark McLaren Vale G.S.M. complexity. $30 spicy fruit flavours. Veryfruit nose. Big tannic good tannin/alcoholpalate with firm floral/ MERLOT 2015 HHHH1/2 balance. 5+ $28dark fruit flavours Powerful aromas oflayered with the dry 4 TASTED briary fruit and forest d’Arenbergdusty oak characters. floor characters with The Derelict McLaren Vale III 4 AWARDED underlying toasty oak. Vineyard McLaren Associates Four 5+ $29 Vale Grenache Score Single Small but consistent Big full flavoured palate 2013 HHHH Vineyard Estate group. The judges were with big, but soft, tannin An aromatic complexity McLaren Vale surprised at the overall structure and good of blue fruits, malt and Grenached’Arenberg The quality. A good sign! acidity. 5+ $15 new leather. Complex 2015 HHH1/2Sticks & Stones savoury varietal palate; Nose of red currants andMcLaren Vale Mollydooker Zonte’s Footstep ageing well. Still has spices with an etherealTempranillo Wines The Scooter Love Symbol freshness. $29 lift. Smooth in the mouthGrenache Tinto Cao McLaren Vale Merlot McLaren Vale with the oak adding niceSouzao 2012 HHHH 2015 HHHH Grenache d’Arenberg complexity. $35Slightly developed, Lifted floral/red fruit 2015 HHHH1/2 The Ironstonepowerful, spicy/licorice fragrances and lolly-like Ethereal candied red Pressings McLaren Vinaceousbouquet. Sweet spicy flavours - lots of ripe plum fruits on the nose Vale G.S.M. Clandestinefloral characters on the and candied apple fruit with a dash of smoky 2013 HHHH Vineyards McLarensilky smooth palate characters with slight oak. Good length The bright fresh Vale Grenachewith good tannins. gamey element. $28 of attractive varietal fruit nose has some 2015 HHH1/2 flavours that lingers complexity developing. Bright varietal nose; a 5+ $29 across the palate. Full-bodied, drying, touch funky. Medium Warming finish. tannic palate has a bodied palate withMorgan Simpson Beresford Bell simple flavour profile. fresh fruity flavoursPlan B McLaren 3-5 $25 and nice tannin weight.Vale Mataro Tower McLaren Vale 3-5 $65 Merlot 2015 HHH1/2 5+ $402013 HHH1/2 Smells of choc mint Mr Riggs TheSubtle blueberry aromas Magnet McLarenand savoury notes and rhubarb. The rich, Vale Grenache full-flavoured palate 2015 HHHH1/2 Three Dark Horseswhich is repeated on a is slightly earthy with Brooding Christmas cake GT McLaren Vale Haselgrove Winespalate with a soft tannin of a nose with more of Grenache Touriga Switch McLarenstructure and warm a hint of forest floor. these characters echoed 2016 HHH1/2 Vale G.S.M. Firm finish. 3-5 on the nicely integrated Attractive spice box of 2014 HHH1/2finish. 3-5 $20 $18.99 palate that shows good a nose laced with deep Lifted spicy red fruit balance between the dark berries. Rich, ripe fragrances and a firmHastwell & Richard Hamilton tannins and the acidity. and fleshy in the mouth tannic palate with goodLightfoot McLaren Lot 148 McLaren with lovely tannins. savoury elements andVale Tempranillo Vale Merlot 5+ $30 crisp acidity. $402015 HHH 2015 HHH 3-5 $25An attractive spicyblackcurrant nose and an Light menthol lift toelegant, balanced, palate the spicy red fruit nosewith subtle tannins. and a plum flavoured palate with good tannin 3-5 $25 structure. 3-5 $21 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 95

McLAREN VALEBeresford Estate Dowie Doole CABERNET VinrockMcLaren Vale G & T McLaren SAUVIGNON & McLaren ValeGrenache Vale Grenache BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon2014 HHH1/2 Tempranillo 2015 HHHH1/2The nose is lifted, spicy 2015 HHH 28 TASTED Ripe blackberryand a tad funky. Oak A complexity of dark red 27 AWARDED bouquet with a leafytends to dominate the fruit and spice aromas. Hugely consistent class lift and a palate full ofred fruit flavours but it Very drying palate with of recommended wines big sweet cassis fruitis a very pleasant drink. attractive flavours. proving the region can flavours with black produce wines with nice olive elements and 3-5 $49.99 3-5 $24.99 varietal character and layered with toasty oak full of flavour. “The ‘15s and firm tannins.d’Arenberg The Pruner’s Hut Dry were showing moreIronstone Pressings Grown McLaren drinkability, whereas 5+ $25McLaren Vale G.S.M. Vale Grenache the ‘14s showed more2014 HHH1/2 2015 HHH weight and ageing Grandeur Wellington Haselgrove WinesA spice box of a nose Pleasant spicy varietal potential,” said one Bin 62 McLaren Vale Protector McLarenwith funky/mushroom nose and an elegant judge. Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernetnotes. Very lean, drying palate full of slightly 2014 HHHHH Sauvignonpalate with pleasant, smoky fruit flavours. $25 Sabella Vineyards Developing aromas of 2015 HHHH1/2simple, flavours. Rusty Bike The McLaren Vale aged black fruit with Thick tarry aromas Penny Farthing Cabernet Sauvignon a light oakiness. Big with blackberry notes 3-5 $65 McLaren Vale 2015 HHHHH powerful palate; oak and a leafy edge toThe Old Faithful Grenache Shiraz Dark dense fruit aromas a tad overt but has the sweet cassis/Northern Exposure Mataro 2015 HHH with nice floral touches pleasant underlying blackberry flavours withMcLaren Vale Powerful licorice and some cedary-like blackcurrant jam fruit a seamlessly balancedGrenache characters on the nose oak. The firm oaky palate and leathery age notes. palate that has good2013 HHH1/2 and well integrated spicy has flavours of olives andFragrant aromas; a tad fruit/smoky oak flavours. dark fruits with some 3-5 $30malty and a soft simple pretty powerful tannins. Richard Hamiltonpalate. Good depth of 3-5 $26 Hut Block McLarenplum fruit and some Haselgrove Wines 5+ $24.99 Vale Cabernetaged notes. “Still very Switch McLaren Beresford Classic Sauvignoncellarable!” $60 Vale G.S.M. McLaren Vale 2015 HHHH1/2Mitolo Jester 2015 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon An elegant lifted leafyMcLaren Vale Interesting amalgam 2014 HHHHH cabernet with light oakGrenache 2016 HHH of pot pourri, lavender, Nice varietal characters nose showing hints ofAromatic musky/Turkish forest floor and fig to the nose with mint and big vibrantDelight bouquet and a aromas and flavours. $40 interesting green fruit-driven palate withzesty, fresh, primary fruit Blackbilly McLaren tomato and asparagus- a good tannin structurepalate. $25 Vale G.S.M. like notes. Excellently and acid backbone.Dowie Doole B.F.G. 2014 HHH integrated oak and fruitMcLaren Vale Mulberries and flavours with more of 5+ $21Grenache 2015 HHH cranberries lift off the the tomato/asparagusEthereal spirity nose. Palate has attractive touches. $28.99fragrances and simple forest floor elements to it.drying tannic palate withripe flavours and crisp 3-5 $23acidity. $24.99 vinosity. 5+ $40 STAR RATINGS  Bayliss Road McLaren ValeThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Cabernet Sauvignonexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2015 HHHHAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Cedary cassis charactersprofessionals and are compared in peer obvious on the nose andclasses by three judges. has a big, rich and leafyCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, cabernet palate with aa major mail-order business. powerful tannin structure.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only. 5+ $20SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Ingoldby Contact information pg 143. McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). 2015 HHHH BEST VALUE for $20 & under. Attractive mix of plum and red currant aromasFor a complete list of what we tasted with light leafiness andplease refer to www.winestate.com.au good varietal flavours on the fuller, richer style of palate. 5+ $2096 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

Manor Estate McLaren Vale Manor Estate Wines are produced from a selection of the best fruit sourced from South Australia including the renowned Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale regions. We incorporate traditional wine making techniques to produce quality wines for all occasions. Our full-bodied red wines exhibit a consistent smoothness and complexity, giving an exhilarating experience you can enjoy glass upon glass. The white wines are refreshing and crisp while our signature Sparkling Brut and Sparkling Shiraz will surely tantalise your taste buds. Manor Estate Wines are excellent companions to a myriad of foods and cuisines.manorestate.com.au/wines [email protected]

McLAREN VALEMollydooker d’Arenberg The Mitolo Jester SHIRAZWines The Maitre Galvo Garage McLaren Vale BLENDS‘d McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon Adelaide Hills 2015 HHH 11 TASTED2015 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Elegant leafy varietal 11 AWARDEDElegant minty cassis Merlot Petit Verdot nose and palate withfragrances with tomato 2012 HHH1/2 hints of licorice and some Excellent class ofleaf-like notes. Simple, A big powerful fruit- spiciness. 5+ $25 very solid wines, withsoft palate; more dry red driven wine. Leafy/tarry generally a traditionalthan varietal with good nose with Ribena notes. Haselgrove Wines blending with cabernet,acid finish. 3-5 $28 Big varietal flavours. First Cut McLaren mourvedre or grenache. Mouth puckering Vale Cabernet “Time spent on theShingleback Davey tannins. $29 Sauvignon tasting bench is a factorEstate Reserve De Lisio Wines The 2014 HHH here,” said one judge.McLaren Vale Covert McLaren Vale Some subtle oak “Small winemakers doCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon complexity on the red a great job in getting the2014 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 fruit nose. Lean, dry and mix right.”Varietal aromas of Aged aromas showing leathery varietal palate.olives and blackcurrants lovely complexity andwith great persistence a beautifully matured 3-5 $23of vibrant Ribena-like blackcurrant palate.flavours and the oak “Asking to be decanted Shaw Familyadding complexity. and drunk,” according to Vintners Lazy one judge. $25 T McLaren Vale 5+ $23.50 Cabernet Sauvignon Doc Adams Wines 5171 McLaren Vale 2014 HHH Black Label Cabernet SauvignonChalk Hill McLaren McLaren Vale 2015 HHH Slight medicinal fruitVale Cabernet Minty chocolaty bouquet nose fused with oak.Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon and long leafy varietal Complex secondary 2015 HHH1/2 palate with crisp acidity.2014 HHHH Smells of blue fruits characters on a tannicRed fruit/glace cherry 3-5 $11.99 palate. 3-5 $30bouquet; light touch of and ripe tomatoes Fat’n Skinny with a hint of mint. Picker’s Choiceoak. Rich and ripe in the Straightforward plum McLaren Vale Haselgrove Winesmouth with red berry Cabernet Sauvignon First Cut McLarenfruit, nice oak and fresh palate with “piquant” Shiraz 2015 HHH Vale Cabernet acidity. 3-5 $30 Minty chocolaty nose Sauvignonacidity. 3-5 $25 with nice subtle oak. 2013 HHH Elegant palate with Ripe chocolaty cabernetMaxwell Lime Mollydooker Wines simple red fruit flavours. with leafy notes to theCave McLaren Vale Gigglepot McLaren nose and very fresh tartCabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet 3-5 $15 red fruit on the palate.2014 HHHH SauvignonA big lift of prune and 2015 HHH1/2 3-5 $23cassis aromas with a light Lifted, almost floralmintiness. Elegant palate; characters under the Grandeur Wellingtonbright, greener, style of dark chocolaty nose. Bin 62 McLaren Valeflavours with a dash of Attractive silky smooth Cabernet Sauvignonspice. 5+ $40 palate; lovely mix of 2013 HHH Mollydooker Wines varietal fruit flavours. Nicely aged nose and Enchanted Path big developed figgy/ McLaren ValePertaringa 5+ $49 berry flavours laced with powerful tannins.Understudy d’Arenberg The Shiraz Cabernet Coppermine Road 5+ $30 2014 HHHH1/2McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Delightful chocolaty/fruitCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2015 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 cake bouquet with some Elegant fresh wild leathery aged notes.Subtle cassis aromas green aromas lift off the d’Arenberg The Big, dark and broodingwith hints of green nose with simple fresh Coppermine Roadbeans. Good strong blackcurrant flavours and McLaren Vale spicy chocolaty/plum crisp acidity. Potential! Cabernet Sauvignon palate with a firm oakypalate with leathery 2013 HHH finish. 5+ $75spicy flavours and firm 5+ $65 Old fashioned fruitfinish. 5+ $22 cake style with masses of tannins and oak Mollydooker Beresford Estate complexity. “Cellar me Wines Two Left McLaren Vale please!” $65 Feet McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek 2013 HHH1/2 Shiraz Merlot Chocolaty nose with Cabernet a light minty note and 2015 HHHH simple varietal flavours Some earthiness on the with good acidity and a spicy plum nose. Soft lean green finish. $49.99 in the mouth with plum flavours and spiciness from the oak. Nice tannin weight. $2898 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

regional tastingGilligan McLaren Mr Riggs ThreeVale Shiraz Corner JackMourvedre McLaren Vale ShirazMarsanne Cabernet Merlot2014 HHHH 2015 HHH1/2Interesting complex A well-made blend witharomatics; a tad fruit sweet plum-like fruit,cake-like. Unusual meaty some meaty savouryand sweet characters notes and minty hints.on the well-structured Soft supple tanninpalate. $25 structure. $17Zonte’s Footstep Dandelion VineyardsZ-Force McLaren Lion’s Tooth ofVale Shiraz Petite McLaren ValeSirah 2014 HHHH McLaren ValeDark brooding briary/ Shiraz Rieslingblack fruit bouquet and 2015 HHH1/2rich flavoursome palate Plum, prune and toastywith “prickly” tannins oak nose. Chocolatyand warming, slightly fruit palate, slight oilydry finish. $55 texture, good tannin structure and “shrill”d’Arenberg d’Arrys acid. 3-5 $27.50Original McLaren Shingleback Davey Sabella Vineyards Blackstone PaddockVale Shiraz d’Arenberg d’Arrys Brothers McLaren McLaren Vale Shiraz Limited ReleaseGrenache Original McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz2013 HHHH Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH Spicy blackberry 2015 HHH1/2The nose is dense, aged Grenache 2014 HHH Dark fruit nose with subtle bouquet with a floral lift. Some balsamic-likeand layered with a well- Mulberry fragrances oak notes and more of Good red fruit flavour notes to the ripe plumbalanced, full-flavoured, with light jubey notes the dark fruit characters intensity, juicy, elegant, fruit nose. A littlepalate with hints of the and a big, full-flavoured, on the long lingering and tannins and slightly savoury on the palateforest floor and dusty palate. $18 well-balanced palate. drying finish. $24.99 with a good firm tannictannins. $18 $16.95 Chalk Hill McLaren structure. $19.99 Shingleback Vale Shiraz IngoldbyHastwell & SHIRAZ Haycutters McLaren 2015 HHHH McLaren Vale ShirazLightfoot 38 Days 2016-2015 Vale Shiraz The nose has some 2016 HHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz UNDER $30 2015 HHHH cherry fruit vibrancy and Lifted floral fragrancesCabernet Sauvignon Aromas of plums and the palate is fresh and of raspberries with a2013 HHHH 31 TASTED spices with nice line of lively with good weight simple, but attractive,Aged nose smelling jubey varietal fruit flavours and length of rich juicy fresh vibrant palate.of mulberries, plums 15 AWARDED on the silky smooth palate fruit flavours. $25 $20and toast. Powerful that has an acidic finish. Arakoon Sellicks Terra Miapalate, quite tannic and Considerable difference $17.95 Beach McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shirazbrooding with dark notes in judges’ opinions Shiraz 2015 HHH1/2 2015 HHHand a chocolaty end. $40 here. “Lots of fruit with Dark fruit aromas with Savoury edge to the some wines being quite some stalky notes and bright berry bouquet.Geoff Merrill Bush forward and others lovely lingering jammy Hints of chocolate onVine McLaren Vale either dry or juicy. The fruit flavours with classy the savoury palate. FirmShiraz Grenache 2015 vintage was a oak and soft tannins. tannins. $17Mourvedre hot one with differing $20 Shingleback Red2012 HHHH winemaking results.” Leconfield Knot ClassifiedLeathery Old Spice Overall these are big McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shirazaromas and aged wines needing food to 2015 HHH1/2 2015 HHHcomplex fruit flavours shine. Blackberry nose with Nose smelling of “fruitswith warming alcohol and floral, spicy and herbal of the forest” with aspirituous viscosity. Still Bird’s Eye View touches. Dense drying dense, dark, fruity sweetattractive. 3-5 $25 McLaren Vale Shiraz palate. Good dark red palate. Drying tannins. 2015 HHHH fruit flavours. Nice $19d’Arenberg The A sweetness of acidity. $26Laughing Magpie mulberries and oak onMcLaren Vale Shiraz the nose and plenty ofViognier 2012 HHHH sweet fruit flavours onMeaty plum fragrances the long soft palate withwith dried apricot notes. its drying finish. $14Nice secondary agedcharacters on the plumpalate with more hintsof apricot. $29 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 99

McLAREN VALEMorgan SimpsonBasket PressMcLaren Vale Shiraz2015 HHHPrunes, spices andvanilla on the noseand a warm, lingering,fruit-driven palate. Somemintiness. $22Dowie Doole EstateMcLaren Vale Shiraz2015 HHHBright plum aromaswith some dried herbs.Sweet mid-palate withtart acid and dryingfinish. $24.99Vinaceous Haselgrove Wines Haselgrove Wines McLaren Vale III Haselgrove WinesSnake Charmer The Lear McLaren Catkin McLaren Associates Squid Col Cross McLarenMcLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz Ink Reserve Single Vale Shiraz2015 HHH 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHH1/2 Vineyard McLaren 2015 HHHH1/2Musky red fruit nose. Big powerful malty Old school style. Nose Vale Shiraz A pretty nose of bluePalate has a good core licorice nose with is chocolaty and minty 2015 HHHH1/2 fruits with floral/of jubey fruit and sweet bright plum fruit and with a dash of spices Attractive aromas of violet fragrances; niceoak tannins. $25 some cloves. The and a bit of oyster cedary oak, briary fruit light oak lift. ObviousDandelion Vineyards bold yet supple palate shell. Nice weight of and new leather. Well- oak on the palateLioness of McLaren supports good jammy blueberry and malty structured palate that’s supported by sweetVale McLaren Vale fruit richness and has a flavours with powerful fleshy and flavoursome plum fruit and strongShiraz 2015 HHH “prickly” tannic finish. tannins. 5+ $40 with good chocolaty tannins. 5+ $90Nose developing prune- varietal fruit. 5+ $55like complexity with a 5+ $90dense, sweet and nicelybalanced palate. $27.50SHIRAZ2016-2015$30+18 TASTED17 AWARDEDExcellent, strong and Pertaringa Pertaringa Haselgrove Wines Doc Adams Wineseven class. “This is The Yeoman Over The Top The Ambassador Black Labelwhat McLaren Vale is all McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shirazabout, showing flavour 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHH1/2 2015 HHHHand natural tannins and Massive oaky aromas A lovely blend of Aged characters starting towhen balanced with sitting on top of dark toasty oak and blue develop on the attractiveappropriate oak can cherry and plum fruit. fruit aromas with fruit/oak nose. Oakproduce age-worthy Well-structured palate a light minty note. dominant palate has juicywines,” commented full of complex sweet Powerful palate that raspberry fruit underneath.one judge. “Lot of wines fruit/oak flavours. Has has plenty of poise andhere worth putting plenty of cellaring nice fleshiness with 3-5 $30away.” potential left in it yet. seamless flavours. 5+ $250 5+ $40 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 HHHH1/2 Powerful black fruit and licorice nose laced with cedary oak. An elegant yet powerful fruit/oak palate with ripe tannins and a slight tang to the finish. 5+ $85100 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017