Winestate Magazine July August 2018

JULY/AUGUST 2018 WINESTATE VOL 41 ISSUE 4 CABERNET & BORDEAUX ORGANIC WINES ADELAIDE HILLS YARRA VALLEY CLARE VALLEY RIVER REGIONS SOUTH ISLAND (NZ) THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE XIIICABERNET & BORDEAUX CHALLENGE FEATURING Premier Grand Cru’ Château Lafite Château Mouton Rothschild Château Margaux Château Haut-Brion New Releases 167 tasted Seductive Sanguine HAIIMGHINFGLYHERIGHERPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 July/August 2018 Adelaide Hills Vol 41 Issue 4 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) 166 tasted NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 QUIET ACHIEVER EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 The Rise of Languedoc-Roussillon plus Clare Valley • Adelaide Hills • Yarra Valley • River Regions • Sweet White & Fortifieds Organic Wines • Cabernet & Bordeaux Varietals • South Island (NZ)

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NO.290 JULY/AUGUST 2018Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely YorkeManaging Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] PeninsulaNZ Editor Jane Skilton MW E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma Jenkins MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalWinestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] OgdenLifestyle Media Vic Pty LtdPhone: 03 9696 9960Email: [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] Cellar Door and Function CentreGordon and Gotch Australia P/L Open 7 days 10am-5pmInternationalDAI Rubicon Lizard Park Drive, South Kilkerran Phone 8834 1258WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. barleystackswine@internode.on.netCopyright2018byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole barleystackswines.comor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 5

contentsJULY/AUGUST 2018 30FEATURES 30 SANGUINE ESTATE – SEDUCTIVE R E G U L A R S26 QUIET ACHIEVER HEATHCOTE AT ITS BEST 10 Briefs Dan Traucki explores what most Heathcote has many charms as people have dismissed as the Michael Hince declares, but perhaps 17 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW “engine room” of France’s wine producing area, Languedoc- one of its most precious gems is that 18 European Report with Sally Easton MW Roussillon, to discover that change is afoot in terms of quality of the lovely Sanguine Estate. 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley in this burgeoning region. 34 HIGH FLYER AIMING HIGHER 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 26 A follow up piece on the 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel 42 Grapevine adventures of Eddie McDougall, 50 Wine Words Asia’s ‘Flying Winemaker’. Denis 52 Wine Investment & Collecting Gastin finds out what Eddie’s been 56 What’s it Worth? up to and it’s seems that he’s been 78 Subscription Form very busy indeed. 34 146 Aftertaste W I N E TAST I N G S 60 Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions 64 Cabernet Sauvignon & Bordeaux Blends 82 Adelaide Hills 90 Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria 96 River Regions 100 Sweet White & Fortified 106 South Island (Nelson & Canterbury) 38 PATRITTI WINES– A PERFECT 108 Jane Skilton’s Recent Releases BLEND OF OLD & NEW 112 New Releases, Organic Wines and Nigel Hopkins discovers the Best Value Buys under $20. unique qualities of a winery that is both embracing its heritage and forging into the future with Patritti Wines. From one of South Australia’s first Italian immigrants, this wine business has flourished from generation to generation and is now discovering new alternative varieties. Winestate Magazine 38 Issue Number 290 July/August 2018 For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Cover photograph Igor Klimov6 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

NOW OPEN The New Zealand International Wine Show, now in its 14th year, is rmly established as the largest wine competition held in New Zealand. Entry is open for wines from any country and made from any variety. In 2017, we received 2005 entries and our 24 senior wine judges awarded 243 gold medals, 366 silver and 879 bronze. We are pleased to announce the 2018 competition will be conducted under the Chairmanship of Bob Campbell MW, New Zealand’s most experienced senior wine judge and highly acclaimed wine educator. The senior judges involve a number of leading winemakers, several Masters of Wine and many key industry personnel. Additions to the Competition format this year will be in the inclusion of a series of major public tastings featuring the Gold Medal and Trophy winning wines. The Trophy and Gold Medal tastings will be held in Auckland and Christchurch. Don't miss this opportunity for your wines to win Gold and qualify to be included in judging for the prestigious International Trophies. DON’T DELAY, ENTRIES CLOSE: Friday 14th September 2018 Full competition entry details and to enter online: www.nziws.co.nz NEW ZEALAND INTERNATIONAL WINE SHOW 2018 AWARDING WINES OF THE WORLDPHASE3 - A2081



editorialMAY YOU LIVE IN INTERESTING TIMES. This is the old saying that can either be a blessingor a curse. We are certainly living in a very fragmented wine environment where it seems that winerieshave to go further to make a dollar, both domestically and overseas. However, it is also the best time tobe a consumer.The overall wine quality is better than it has ever been as is the range of varieties andprices. If you can't find something you like now you are not trying very hard. It is also a great time to putaway a few dozen for cellaring (from Winestate reviews, of course) or buy some of the gems through theauction scene. Having just got back from the Vinitaly Exhibition we see that the word's biggest wine producer has amyriad of wineries and labels, most small and for home consumption at incredibly cheap prices, subsidisedby the States of Europe. Is this a sign of things to come here? Maybe this diversity is a good thing. Certainly when we do a survey for our readers and ask them what theywant the usual answer is new release wines and stories on small wineries; what we used to call boutique wineries. \"Is new, is good!\" apparently. Is this a wake up call for established wineries who expect consumers to beat a path to their cellar doors with minimal effort on their part? It isgood to see the more pro-active ones out there spreading the word on wine. These are the wineries that we like to support, not the do nothingones who rest on their laurels. You have told us that you agree on this. We understand it is difficult for them to subject their “babies into a talent/beauty contest” particularly if they’ve been told before how gorgeous their “children” are… but if you don’t compete (on a truly unbiased stage)how do you really know how your wine is evolving? We respect the past but live in the now! We know that that is why our readers trust us togive honest reviews so they can actually believe it when a wine gets an award. It is also good to see that there is a market for higher priced and higher quality wines, both here and overseas. We noticed that at Vinitaly,despite the plethora of cheap wines. Like having a wardrobe full of cheap clothes, you don't need more, you need more interesting and higherquality items. Actually come to think of it you don't ‘need’ most things, you just like them! In this issue we lashed out again to source the high priced Bordeaux wines, with the great reputation, to use them as a yardstick against thebest of Australia and New Zealand. It is always interesting to look at thousand dollar wines to see how they go in blind tastings. Are they worththat? Is a Ferrari worth 40 Toyotas? Of course not. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and those who hold the purse to pay for it. What is truly interesting is how good many of the cabernet wines in various price categories, there were. As I mentioned before it is a greattime to buy these and see how they develop with age. I can also announce now that 2016 is a great vintage for reds, one of the best, with bothcabernet and shiraz wines. Can I say \"the vintage of the century\". For our regional judgings a great result for the Adelaide Hills where chardonnay seems to be the hero. For Yarra and Southern Victoriachardonnay and pinot wines are worth searching out. For the Clare Valley more kudos for the rieslings. \"We just need to get a glass in to people'shands and not tell them its riesling,\" said one liquor store manager. \"They will love it.\" Seems like something is missing in the marketing message. The Riverland and regions continues to surprise above our usual comments about the \"engine room of the Country\" based on cheap andcheerful wines. We are now seeing wines from warm climate alternative varieties that do well here along with fortifieds and table wines wherethe water is turned off and the tonnages reduced. Stay tuned for our upcoming world-first Emerging Varietals Awards (EVA’s) to be held in ourNovember December issue where we expect the River Regions to shine with some of their exciting ‘new’ varietals. And talking about fortifieds and sweet wines how lucky are we to have some of the world's greatest examples which we saw in this annualjudging. Sip it and see. Take one straight to the pool room or for those winter nights relaxing by the fire. For our friends in New Zealand we were pleased to see nice examples from the South Island's Nelson and Canterbury and some nice recentrelease chardonnays and pinot noirs shining through. As always lots to taste and lots to like.Cheers! Your wine, our ports. Peter Simic Australia Editor/Publisher Export Customer ServiceMajor Sponsors and Supporters 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsCHINA RISES Australia or sold and promoted in Australia, ahead of the court case. Rush Rich has also had its trade mark application for the Ben FuTHE rise of China as the pre-eminent market for Australian wine Chinese character mark in Australia rejected. The Australian Tradecontinues. Latest Australian wine exports data reveal that China Marks Office (IP Australia) noted that in seeking rights to the Benhas now overtaken the US to become Australia’s largest export Fu character mark, Rush Rich was “attempting to usurp for itselfmarket by volume, increasing by 51 per cent for the year ending the Penfolds’ brand’s reputation,” as Ben Fu is recognised by manyMarch to crack the billion-dollar mark - $1.04 billion, to be precise consumers in China as referring to Penfolds Wines.– a first for exports to a single country. The latest data, released byWine Australia in April, paints a healthy picture for most markets, NEW OWNER FOR ACCOLADEbut the big story continues to be China. Australia is in an enviableposition in China thanks in large part to the Australia-China Free ACCOLADE Wines, the maker of iconic Aussie wine brands Petaluma,Trade Agreement. Tariffs were reduced by half in January, and will St. Hallett, Grant Burge and Hardy’s, amongst others, has a new owner.be removed completely in January, 2019. It will provide Australia In April, The Carlyle Group, an American private equity company,with a competitive advantage over the Europeans and Americans. paid $1 billion for Accolade, Australia’s biggest wine producer, a figure a number of commentators have viewed as a bargain. Carlyle’s The average value (up five per cent) and average value of timing has also been deemed perfect as exports of Australian wine,Australian bulk wine exported (up eight per cent) indicate an particularly to China, are soaring. Accolade, at the time of purchase,industry fully recovered from a debilitating grape oversupply of was achieving $350 million in annual export sales and exports tonearly three years ago. Exports increased by 16 per cent in value, 40 countries. Accolade Wines began as Thomas Hardy and Sonsreaching $2.65 billion, the highest value in a decade. in 1853 and underwent a successful merger with Berri Renmano in 1992, before coming under the wing of US-based Constellation WinesWINE VALUES in 2003. In 2011, Constellation Wines Australia sold an 80 per cent stake to CHAMP Private Equity, and the new company was renamedTHE Australian wine industry is set to adopt a code of conduct, a Accolade Wines. Constellation Brands retained a 20 per cent interest.broad-ranging set of guidelines embracing, among other things, CHAMP has bought out both interests. Accolade Wines had beengender diversity and equality. It comes as a direct result of the fall-out groomed for sale, and CHAMP had only recently toyed with the ideafrom a social media posting by one of the industry’s biggest wine of floating the company on the Australian Securities Exchange.producers, Darren De Bortoli of De Bortoli Wines, which was widelycriticised as sexist. The February 6 Facebook post on his personal MATCH MADE IN HEAVENpage showed two young women treading grapes in a wine barrel withthe accompanying tagline from Mr De Bortoli: “Whip me, crush me, IT was a marriage that few saw coming, and caught the winemake me whine. I love the idea of all those nubile virgins vigorously industries of Australia and New Zealand off-guard. In March, Torbrecksquishing my grapes during vintage time.” The post drew criticism from Vintners announced its purchase of leading New Zealand pinot noira number of women, including McLaren Vale winemaker, Corrina Wright maker, The Escarpment. It’s a good match of personalities as wellof Oliver’s Taranga. ”When leaders such as yourself make comments as wine styles. Torbreck is owned by American tech billionaire, Petesuch as these, it makes it so much harder for women such as myself Kight and is based in the Barossa Valley. It is highly regarded for itsto be taken seriously in my work,” she responded. “It also makes it shiraz labels (The Factor, RunRig, The Struie) and grenache blendokay for this sort of everyday sexism under the banner of humour to (The Steading). The Laird, its single vineyard shiraz, is released atbe normalised.” Corrina Wright sits on the board of the Winemakers’ $750 a bottle, and is among the most expensive shiraz produced inFederation of Australia. So does Mr De Bortoli. An emergency meeting Australia. The Escarpment is a small but world class 19-ha vineyardof the board followed the post in which an eight member working group in Martinborough on New Zealand’s North Island, established in 1999was established to compose a code of conduct embracing industry by Larry McKenna and investors. It has long been seen as a pioneer“values,” as well as gender diversity and equality. “We should have of pinot noir in New Zealand, with the Kupe single vineyard pinot itsdone it a long time ago,” said Winemakers’ Federation of Australia flagship. Larry McKenna will stay on as winemaker under the newchief executive, Tony Battaglene. deal with Torbreck. Securing the services of McKenna was said to be an essential part of the deal.FAUX BEN FU FIGHT FOR PROSECCOTREASURY Wine Estates has taken its battle with counterfeitersto the next level, filing legal action against an Australian-based, THE battle between Italy and Australia over the use of the name,Chinese-owned bulk wine producer. Treasury claims that Rush prosecco, just hotted up with King Valley vignerons being awardedRich Winery Pty Ltd, registered in South Australia, is illegally using $50,000 of Victorian State Government funds to help make theTreasury’s Ben Fu trademark (represented as a Chinese character) region the country’s home of prosecco. The money will contribute toon Australian-sourced wines sold in China. Ben Fu is the Chinese a $100,000 five-year, marketing and growth strategy, and is viewedname that TWE legally uses in China for wines in its Penfolds’ as a show of support for the region – and the wider Australian wineportfolio. In March, Rush Rich was ordered by the Federal Court to industry - as it continues to fight to use the name. Prosecco was thenot use the Ben Fu Chinese character mark on wine exported from10 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

briefsname of the grape variety that originally heralded from Italy’s Venetoregion, until its world-wide success saw the Italians turn prosecco intoa geographical indicator in 2009, changing the grape’s name to glera.Any sparkling wines grown outside prosecco, are to be called gleraafter the new name, but Australia was saved because it had beenusing the grape name prosecco since the late 1990s, years before thename change. The grape was planted by Otto Dal Zotto of Dal ZottoWines in the King Valley, and has come to be seen as an essentialpart of the Italian-Australian wine culture in the area. However, Italianwine producers aren’t giving up, and have put our use of the name,prosecco, back on the table as part of EU-Australia trade negotiations.BEE HYDRATED DESTINATION DAYLESFORDAUSTRALIANS don't drink enough water - so much so that many THE Daylesford and Macedon Ranges region has unveiled a newof us are in a permanent state of dehydration. According to Water five-day wellness festival called Live. Love. Life. That will run fromLogic Australia, the average Australian only drinks 1.29 litres of November 14-18, 2018. The festival was launched in April bywater per day – which, for men and women alike, barely reaches creative directors David Bromley and Kate Ceberano. It is designedhalf the recommended daily intake – and wine drinkers should to be a boundary-pushing event that will combine the arts, foodarguably even be drinking more water. Proper hydration is the and wellness therapies. “This event will combine Daylesford’scornerstone to maintaining optimal daily health and energy levels finest offerings to deliver a one-of-a-kind festival which will draw- but we often overlook its importance. Enter Melbourne-based visitors from far and wide,” said Victorian Minister for Tourism andsisters Joanne and Marina Nikoloulea, who have combined a Major Events. “Live. Love. Life will drive visitation, boost the local\"healthy dream team\" of purified and mineralised water with 100% economy and cement the region as Australia’s leading wellnessnatural cold-extracted Australian honey to create Bee Hydrated destination.” Daylesford Macedon Tourism has received fundingHoney Water (clever name!). Containing just 3 grams of naturally over three years from the Victorian Government’s Regional Events Fund to produce the Live. Love. Life event in 2018, 2019 and 2020. occurring sugar per 100ml, Bee Hydrated For details see www.livelovelifedaylesford.com.au. blows many fruit juices and even coconut waters out of the water with its low-sugar content. The range boasts three flavours and comes in 100% recyclable bottles. All stockist details and locations can be found at www.beehydrated.com.auwine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 11 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E

briefsFANCY A WEEKEND AWAY? TASSIE IN TOP TENCOONAWARRA Experiences has just launched an all-inclusive A NEW report has found the Tasmanian wine sector conservativelypackage for couples including two nights’ accommodation, contributes more than $115 million to the Tasmanian economya four-course Wagyu dinner at the famous Mayura Station annually, placing it in the state’s top 10 sectors. Commissioned byand a Coonawarra Highlights wine tour with lunch platter. The Wine Tasmania, the report by University of Queensland EconomicsCoonawarra stay, wine and dine package includes well-appointed Professor John Mangan analysed the wine sector’s contributionaccommodation in the heart of Penola, a complimentary bottle across agriculture (vineyards), manufacturing (wineries) andof Coonawarra wine and a chocolate treat. Dinner is at Mayura tourism (cellar doors and wine tourism expenditure by in-boundStation Dining Room located in Millicent with the meal matched visitors). Wine Tasmania chief executive Sheralee Davieswith museum release Coonawarra wines. The second day includes welcomed the report’s finding, which she said more accuratelya tour of several Coonawarra cellar doors for an afternoon captures the sector’s significant and growing contribution to theof wine tasting. One stop will include a hearty ploughman'splatter and a glass of wine in a cellar. For full details see www. island's economy. “Mostcoonawarraexperiences.com.au. of the wine sector’s value is derived post theNAME CHANGE farmgate, and this report provides unprecedentedSAY goodbye to Geelong region winery St Regis and hello to its new insight into thepersona: Nicol’s Paddock. Second-generation couple Jack Nicol and substantial overall valueKatherine Anderson are putting their own stamp on the family-owned of the Tasmanian wineWaurn Ponds vineyard with the re-branding. Jack’s parents, Steve sector to the state. It's anand Viv, planted the vineyard in 1997 and had their first vintage in exciting time of growth2001. They opened a cellar door in 2004 and sell shiraz, pinot noir and in the sector's relativechardonnay. Jack and Katherine took over three years ago, adding a youth, as we continuerestaurant. “My Mum and Dad ran the whole thing for 10-12 years,” to attract global interestsays Jack. “Then Katherine and I were in a position to take over.” The in our wines and ever-re-branding reflects the fact that the original name of St Regis was increasing visitation toa tribute to the family dog. “We wanted a refresh for people to better our cellar doors.”understand what we are doing here,” says Jack. Nicol’s Paddockis at 35 Waurn Ponds Drive, Waurn Ponds and is open 11am-5pm CHINA FOCUSThursdays and Sundays and 11am-late Fridays and Saturdays. WINE Australia hosted over 30 international wine professionals during April. The groups of journalists, sommeliers, wine buyers and wine influencers from mainland China mainland, Hong Kong, Canada and the United States visited Australia to gain first-hand experience of the various Australian wine regions. Across five visits, guests met producers face-to-face and sampled wines over tastings and master12 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

briefsclasses in regions including the Adelaide Hills, Hunter Valley, to work with Sullivans Cove was very much well received by theMornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Macedon Ranges, Barossa team and we are very excited to be able to work with such an iconicValley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Margaret River. Wine Tasmanian whisky producer.” The barrels used were American oak,Australia chief executive officer Andreas Clark said the visits ex-bourbon casks that matured whisky for at least 12 years. “Wegive guests insight into the history of Australian wine, modern aged the best of our dry cider in their whisky casks for 16 months,\"innovations and our food and wine culture. \"Wine Australia said Jones. \"What that did was combine the flavour of Sullivanshosts more than 140 visitors each year - bringing influential Cove whisky with that of our cider, producing a very complex andmembers of the international wine trade and media to our unique product.\" The 2018 limited-edition Special Reserve Williewine regions to help them discover the people and places Smith’s Whisky-Aged Cider was officially unveiled in Melbournethat influence the unique characteristics of Australian wine.” and retails for $50 for a 750ml bottle.Australian wine exports to China soared by 51% to $1 billionin the past 12 months.SIMPLE PLEASURESNASHDALE Lanevineyard outsideOrange is a place todisconnect, to relax andimmerse yourself in thegreat outdoors. Guestscan enjoy simplepleasures; sleeping inthe vineyard; enjoyinglocal produce andfine wine by the woodfire and enjoying theCentral West New South Wales night sky. Glamping at family-ownedNashdale Lane, 10km outside the town of Orange, offers an outdoorexperience without giving up any of the comforts expected of high-end accommodation. The Nashdale Lane Glamping experience isnestled in an established vineyard (planted in 2000) at almost 900metres above sea level. Each glamping cabin (for just two people)enjoys privacy, mountain air and views to Mount Canobolas. Withhardwood flooring throughout, private luxurious toilet and bathroomfacilities, kitchen, custom-made four-poster queen-sized bed andsunken outdoor lounge, each cabin also includes an al fresco deckand barbecue area. For full details see: www.nashdalelane.com/pages/glamping.WHISKY & CIDER PRIVATE LABEL PRODUCTTWO of Tasmania's iconic drinks producers have combined to ISABEL Estate is what the industry calls a \"private label product\". Itcreate a unique new cider released this week. Innovative cider is owned by, and its wines are mainly made for, Woolworths outlets.producer Willie Smith’s has joined award-winning Sullivans Covedistillery for its latest limited-edition special release; a whisky-aged Private label products do not always have the best reputation butcider. The Huon Valley cidery has worked with Sullivans Cove using Isabel Estate proves a very worthy exception. Jeremy McKenzie,hand-selected barrels to develop a complex product it hopes a Kiwi action man who hunts, fishes, dives for crayfish and runswill excite the taste buds of craft cider connoisseurs. It is the first ironman triathlons took over as winemaker at Isabel Estate incollaboration between Willie Smith’s and Sullivans Cove, which Marlborough when Woolworths arm Pinnacle Drinks purchasedhave both enjoyed recent international success. Willie Smith’s Head the winery in 2014. He and his small team have enjoyed almostCider Maker Dr Tim Jones said the collaboration was extremely immediate success, winning the Air New Zealand Champion Winerewarding. “One of the great things about working in the Tasmanian of Show last year for, not a sauvignon blanc, but the 2016 Isabelcraft industry is the opportunity to work with other like-minded,innovative producers,” Jones said. “In this case, the opportunity July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsChardonnay. \"That was a career highlight,\" former Allan Scott and of the famous Wine Room where Wine Room AmbassadorsVilla Maria winemaker McKenzie says. \"Isabel's been part of the introduce visitors to the wines and many stories of Yalumba.fabric in Marlborough for a long time and the award shows that we One of three immersive Yalumba experiences available is Theare kicking a few goals again.\" Isabel Estate is one of Marlborough's Signature Tour, an in-depth experience beginning at the historicoriginal vineyards, established in 1980 near Renwick in the Wairau Yalumba Wine Room and taking in The Signature vineyard sitesValley, and all its wines are estate grown, made and bottled. There with spectacular views over the Barossa Valley, tasting barrelare 45 hectares of close-planted vines. Writer Winsor Dobbin samples of the cabernet and shiraz components that will go into areports that an Isabel Estate cellar door is on the drawing board future release of The Signature. Back at Yalumba, the experiencein Marlborough. continues with a private tasting of a pre-release sample of Signature, a current release Signature and a museum-release Signature before a tour through the Hill-Smith family's private museum cellar and lunch prepared by a local chef, paired with Yalumba's Rare and Fine collection in iconic dining space Tank 11. The inclusion of Yalumba now takes the UWEA collection to 22 members with representation in most of Australia's renowned wine regions across five states.IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE NEW PROVENANCEULTIMATE Winery Experiences Australia (UWEA) has announced A BLUESTONE building built in the 1870s as a paper mill on thethe inclusion of iconic Australian winery Yalumba to its collection. banks of the Barwon River in Geelong is now the new home toEstablished in 1849 by Samuel Smith a British migrant, Yalumba Provenance Wines. Provenance owners Scott Ireland and Samtakes its name from the Aboriginal word meaning 'All the Vogel are the biggest operators at the former Fyansford Paper Mill complex, which in recent years has become an arts hub. The duo has land around' and is given the former machine room a $1 million renovation, preserving Australia's most historic its soaring cathedral ceilings and whitewashed walls. The business family-owned winery. consists of a working 10,000-case winery, with the adjoining barrel With its own on-site maturation room doubling as a cellar door and function area that can cooperage, operational accommodate up to 250 people. The 40-seat River Room beside since the turn of the the winery area can be used for more intimate functions. The winery 20th century, Yalumba produces pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz sourcing fruit has the advantage of mostly from the Moorabool Valley in Geelong and from Ballarat. being able to have full \"People have an opportunity to drink wine by the glass or bottle control over the oak directly from the producer in these amazing surrounds, plus our food used to craft and age offerings will also showcase the region's provenance,\" says Ireland. its premium wines. Initially they're serving simple platters using local charcuterie, Yalumba's estate L'Artisan cheese and Camilo olives from nearby Teesdale – while is located outside a full kitchen will be established. Provenance Wines is open daily Angaston in the Eden from 11am-6pm at 100 Lower Paper Mills Road, Fyansford, (03) Valley in the Barossa 5222 3422. www.provenancewines.com.au. region. Oak barrels, family artefacts and artworks line the walls14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

RISE OF REESTHE REES Hotel in Queenstown, apopular New Zealand destination forAustralian skiers and wine lovers, hasunveiled new winter packages. TheRees offers five-star accommodationin an absolute lakefront location andshowcases panoramic views overlookingLake Wakatipu and The RemarkablesMountains. Its landmark restaurant isthe True South Dining Room. The AprèsSki Escape by The Rees features top-shelf local and international vintagewines and cuisine prepared by award-winning executive chef Ben Batterbury,Included are a three-night stay in anExecutive Lake View Hotel Room fortwo people, breakfast daily, luxury returnairport transfers in the hotel’s LandRover Discovery, a bottle of SurveyorThomson Pinot Noir on arrival, aprèsski drinks every evening, one six-course degustation dinner andcomplimentary late check out. The cost is $NZ350.00 per person,per night. The Ultimate 5-Star Ski Concierge Package for Twoincludes a dedicated five-star ski concierge who can book ski,rental, stay and spa arrangements prior to arrival in Queenstown.Local ski rental company, Snopro will come to custom fit yourski gear and your ski concierge can also pre-book lift passesat the ski field of your choice. The deal includes transfers instyle to Coronet Peak and at the end of the day, a driver willcollect you directly from the mountain. The package includesaccommodation, breakfasts, Coronet Peak transfers, Snoproequipment hire, In-room couples massages for two people andlate check out at a cost of $NZ650.00 per person, per night. Forfull details of these and other packages see: www.therees.co.nz. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsNEW DISTILLERY wine industry and thrives in site-specific parts of Australia. Bleasdale, which was one of the first Australian wineries to plant malbec backTHE Whiskery, which opened its doors on Anzac Day, is the much- in the 1890s, has approximately eight hectares of malbec plantedanticipated cellar door/tasting room for Bellarine Distillery. Based across the property, with plans for more to come. In recent years,in a former Cobb & Co watering hole, owners Russell Watson Bleasdale has planted three more malbec clones, bringing the totaland Lorelle Warren have transformed an old shed into a high-end up to nine. Bleasdale’s first table wine in 1961 was a malbec. Twovenue that will host tastings of Bellarine Distillery whisky and Teddy of the new-release wines come from Bleasdale estate vineyards in Langhorne Creek, and the third from an outstanding grower vineyard & The Fox gin. Everything in Kangaroo Island. This is the second occasion Bleasdale has the couple makes will be released three single-vineyard malbecs, produced to highlight the produced on site. The uniqueness and nuances of place. Each wine has been made in single malts are maturing in small quantities, with parcels picked at the optimum time to capture barrels and should be ready individual qualities of their site. “We are impressed with the quality within six to 12 months but of malbec across Australia, and winemakers all over are creating the gin is ready right now. some really exciting wines from the variety,” said Paul Hotker, senior Teddy and the Fox is named winemaker at Bleasdale. “With the 2016 vintage, we have chosen after the couple's loyal dog to profile three exceptional vineyards; two being estate vineyards in Teddy and The Whiskery will Langhorne Creek – Riparian Vineyard and Mullianna Vineyard – andalso showcase local wines, ciders and beers, and other Australian the third the Islander Estate Vineyard on Kangaroogins. It will offer a menu of local grazing plates and Italian-style Island. \"Our continued success with the variety onlypizzas. The venue has indoor and outdoor dining options and will strengthens our belief that Langhorne Creek is onehave an open fireplace for the cooler months. The Whiskery is of the best places in Australia to grow and produceat 2102-2120 Portarlington Road, Drysdale, VIC. 0468 926 282. world class malbec wines,” said Hotker. \"These project single-site malbec wines join Bleasdale’s threeCELEBRATING MALBEC permanent tiers of malbec; Double Take Malbec, Generations Malbec, and Second InningsHEAD to the Bleasdale cellar door in Langhorne Creek to taste and Malbec. “I arrived at Bleasdale before the 2008buy a new-release set of three single-vineyard malbecs that were vintage and was excited about the opportunitylaunched to mark World Malbec Day in April. Malbec is an inky, robust to play with Bleasdale’s malbec vineyards,red grape variety that is one of the six grapes allowed in the blends knowing that Bleasdale is obsessed with thisof Bordeaux, although French plantings of malbec (also known at variety,\" Hotker said. \"This obsession continuescot, or auxerrois) are now found primarily in Cahors in south-west to grow.” Almost half of Bleasdale’s gold medalsFrance. Malbec is the driving force behind the booming Argentine and trophies are for malbec, and Bleasdale is recognised as the leading Australian producer of the variety. The new wines are only available at the historic Bleasdale cellar door – one of the main drawcards in Langhorne – and online. They will cost $35 each. Bleasdale is one of Australia’s oldest family-owned wineries and the first winery established in Langhorne Creek. www.bleasdale.com.au. 16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MWHARVEST IN REVIEW early and intense start - and as quickly as it began, it was over! At Seifried it was less than three weeks from start to finish, whichAFTER 2017 delivered a fairly challenging harvest to New Zealand meant lots of very long days for our team.” Across the Richmondwine regions, viticulturists and winemakers could be forgiven for Ranges to the engine room of NZ wine, Marlborough’s vigneronshoping for a more uneventful run into the 2018 season. Whilst they had to contend with the atypical humidity and warmer nightsdid not quite receive that in the end, most New Zealand wineries alongside some ill-timed rain events. It was a year where carefulhave managed to come out the other side of harvest smiling. The vineyard management and judicious harvest timing were key. Benseason got off to a slow start but soon accelerated with record Glover of Glover Family Vineyards feels that 2018’s sauvignon blancwarm temperatures throughout the country in December and will express more tropical fruit than herbaceous elements, addingJanuary. Unusually for New Zealand, the mercury did not drop that “chardonnay and pinot gris are looking spectacular.” With themuch at night, leaving growers worried about retaining acid and first 2018 whites soon to hit the shelves, winelovers will shortly bemanaging alcohol levels – and wineries scrambling to prepare able to judge for themselves.for incoming grapes several weeks ahead of schedule. However,a shift to cooler, often wetter weather in February slowed things WINERY MERRY-GO-ROUNDdown somewhat, though as with 2017, there were also tropicalcyclones to contend with, bringing with them plenty of humidity THE ACQUISITION/JOB merry-go-round continues with Barossaand its accompanying increased disease pressure. In 2017, the producer Torbreck announcing the purchase of Martinborough’sEast Coast regions of Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne bore most of The Escarpment. Its founder and head winemaker (and formerthe cyclones’ brunt but this year, as James Millton of The Millton Australian) Larry McKenna will stay on, looking forward to theVineyard in Gisborne noted, “It would appear that Gisborne fared additional capital, marketing and distribution strengths now onbetter than most in that the three cyclonic events tracked down hand. Torbreck’s purchase includes a 300 tonne winery and 19hcentre west of the country and spared our golden shores.” He of vineyards which deliver a three-tiered portfolio with an enviablereports excellent phenolic ripeness, “which is very positive for reputation for pinot noir, chardonnay and aromatic whites. Larry’sred wines and “on skins” white wines.” Michael Henley, Chair of fellow Escarpment winemaker (another former Australian!) HuwHawke’s Bay Winegrowers echoes Millton’s statements, saying Kinch, has in turn moved on to become the new Estate Manager“We had a really good long late summer and autumn to go with the and Winemaker for Pyramid Valley Vineyards in North Canterburyvery warm earlier part of the ripening period. Yields are average which, as noted in previous News Briefs, was itself recentlyso overall the growers and wineries are very happy with what has purchased by Steve Smith MW and US investor Brian Sheth’s newbeen harvested.” Most regions started harvest 1-3 weeks earlier venture Aotearoa NZ Fine Wine Estates.than average amid largely positive quality reports, with someregions extremely upbeat about what the weather gods delivered HANDING OVER THE REINSthis year. Dom Maxwell of Waipara’s Greystone and Muddy Waterwas an enthusiast: “We were thrilled with the 2018 harvest. The WINE-SEARCHER founder Martin Brown is stepping down fromwhites are showing beautiful phenolic ripeness and it’s probably his CEO position, handing the reins over to Julian Perry (theour best pinot noir vintage since 2013.” In Central Otago, Felton creator of UK-based tech company Limitless). Established inRoad’s winemaker Blair Walter commented, “The coolest February 1999, wine-searcher.com has become the global go-to databasesince 2004 - and a very wet month - actually saved us, enabling for independent location and pricing of any wine anywhere in thethe ripening to slow considerably after the record hot and dry world, also supplying tasting notes, critics’ scores, news and grape/spring and summer. The wines are all looking terrific and at this region information. Brown has no firm future plans at this stageearly stage, do not appear to be the product of a warm vintage but Perry will continue the focus on advancing wine-searcher’slike 2016 and 2011.” He added, “We have a very unique climate impressive digital technology and user-friendly interface.in Central for grapes that even when getting 144mm of rain in themonth before harvest, it doesn’t seem to cause any concern.” Late NEW WINEMAKING HUBsummer’s rain and humidity did however cause problems in theAuckland region, with rot plaguing many growers. James Rowan BIODYNAMIC producer Seresin Estate has recently sold its 1300of West Brook Winery observed that it was a season to handpick, tonne winery and associated 8ha of land (including 3ha of organicwith careful selection in the vineyard making life much easier in vineyards) to Ben Glover (Glover Family Vineyards) and Rhyanthe winery. He thinks that after three consecutive demanding Wardman (formerly GM of Giesen Wines), who have formed Theyears, maximising quality under such conditions is something Coterie – an intended winemaking hub for both their own wine asAuckland winemakers are getting rather good at. “Every vintage is well as contract production. The plan is to provide the opportunityfascinating, and you learn so much,” says Rowan. “We made some for other likeminded small producers, organic or conventional, togreat chardonnay and rosé, and Waiheke Island syrah is the real make, or have their wines made, in a collaborative and stimulatingchampion this year.” Nelson was another region coping with wetter environment that Wardman feels will “display the real fabric ofweather though Seifried’s winemaker Heidi Seifried felt “overall we Marlborough.” Both men are known for a professional yet subtlyhad some superb parcels of fruit with beautiful flavours and lovely provocative approach to the industry and this new venture will beripeness. Vintage 2018 has been one to remember with a very followed with keen interest. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWTHE COMING OF THE CRÉMANTS? FRANCE’S OTHER BUBBLIESHAS the time finally come for crémants the same suite of grape varieties it uses Crémant d’Alsace is about 35m bottles.to carve a slightly bigger cut of the for its still wine production. This can Bourgogne about 20m. Loire roughly 17msparkling wine cake? These wines are lead to significant differences in flavour bottles. Bordeaux and Limoux about 5mgenerally regarded as potentially good profile, so if you’re particularly fond of bottles each. Jura about 2.5m bottles.value. The quality of these bubblies has the flavour from Alsace, you’ll notice a Savoie and Die are minor contributors. Inbeen improving over the last couple of Bordeaux crémant will be different. As total, crémant production is around 85mdecades, and further impetus in that with Champagne, when a wine is matured bottles. This number is growing – gentlydirection has seen the recent creation of nearer the minimum time on lees, more - as both quality and demand increase.tighter regulations for top cuvées in three grape variety character is likely to be Importantly, there is room to grow. Butof the crémant appellations. by the standard of their competitors, There are eight French the crémants are minnows. Champagne What are crémants? The umbrella term comes in around 320m bottles, althoughis used to denote one group of regional regions that make it is producing at maximum capacity.French sparkling wines made outside ofthe Champagne region, and made in the crémant: Alsace, Identifying the competitive set is anothertraditional method, that is, the same way part of the challenge. Is it Champagne,as Champagne. (There are also other Burgundy and the given they are made the same way? Buttraditional method French bubblies that only Crémant de Bourgogne (made fromare not part of the crémant category, but Loire arguably the the grape varieties used in Burgundylet’s not confuse matters…) - chardonnay and pinot noir) tastes most important, quite a bit like Champagne (also made There are eight French regions that from chardonnay and pinot noir, in themake crémant: Alsace, Burgundy and plus Bordeaux, Die main). Indeed, arguably, good Crémantthe Loire arguably the most important, de Bourgogne is better than lesserplus Bordeaux, Die (pronounced ‘dee’ (pronounced ‘dee’ in the Champagne. Or is it Italy’s Prosecco,in the Rhône), Jura and Savoie. (Outside which has been THE sparkling wineof France, Luxembourg also makes Rhône), Jura and Savoie. phenomenon of the last decade: easy,crémant, but again let’s not confuse soft, light, fruity, affordable, quaffable.matters …) retained, especially when grape varieties with lots of their own personality are used. Prosecco producers made some The method of production – same way For example some Alsace (where pinot momentous moves in 2009, whenas Champagne – is what unites this blanc is a major ingredient), and some producers rejigged their appellationcategory. The minimum time of ageing Loire (chenin blanc, often accompanied definitions and boundaries, and goton lees - for those nutty, bready, yeasty by chardonnay) may well retain some of EU protection for the use of the wordcharacters – is nine months, which is the finer fruits of their signature cultivars. ‘prosecco’ for wines coming solely fromthree months less than the minimum in their region – in Veneto and Friuli-VeneziaChampagne. The permitted yield is a tiny Also part of the challenge is the Giulia in the north east of Italy. The grapebit higher than in Champagne, otherwise scale of production. Production from variety is now called glera and winesproduction is pretty much the same. individual crémant appellations is not made outside these regions must be large; collectively they are still not large. called glera (on the Aussie domestic Part of the challenge is that some market Australian-produced glera cannotable differences emerge with the be called Prosecco, and discussions ongrape varieties that are used. Eachregion uses for its crémant production18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

this status are part of the Australia-EU suggests they are also targeting thefree trade agreement). pricier Champagne set. The ‘big three’ The point of this re-jigging and subsequentstrong marketing which coincided with of Alsace, Burgundy and the Loire have(drove?) a big upswing in demand forsparkling wines, is that Prosecco production all introduced new rules for a top quality T EWINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTINGhas skyrocketed. From about 160m bottlesall told in 2009, to around 450m bottles. tier in their respective appellations.There’s room for further growth. Crémantproduction is tiny by comparison, and Longer lees ageing, at least 24 monthsthe flavour profile is a fundamental pointof difference. As well as tasting drier, (so double the minimum needed inCrémants, especially when aged for morethan a year, have the bready, yeasty, lemon- Champagne) across all three, and, intoasty characters, and creamy texture fromageing on lees in bottle. Alsace and Loire, encouraging greater Prices are roughly comparable with those use of chardonnay and pinot noir (bothof Prosecco. Stylistically crémant typicallytastes drier. This despite much crémant permitted grape varieties anyway).and Prosecco being labelled the same– brut. Prosecco is fruitier, and sweeter- Further building on the qualitativetasting because the acidity is not usuallyso racy, so you feel the dosage rather than improvements in recent years, Gerardit being used to balance the acidity. Bertrand, impressive Languedoc- A decade on and the sparkling winesector has seen steady growth across Roussillon wine producer, and ex-price points. Prosecco has arguably bothdemocratised sparkling wine consumption, French-rugby international, launched aand turned it into an ‘everyday’ occasionfrom the ‘special occasion’ purchases of £50 (AUD$90) Crémant de Limoux roséChampagne. The French seem to be finallyrealising their crémant category could earlier this year. Limoux is somethingoffer some competition in the affordablebubbly market sector. This is definitely of an oddity in France’s deep south,an opportunity. In the UK, for example,posh supermarket Waitrose saw sales of because it’s (under-)renown is forcrémant in 2017 increase by more than70% over sales in 2016. sparkling wine despite being a neighbour As well as a modest increase in to red-blooded, full-bodied Corbières.production, a key trend from producers Altitudinal cooling, 300 to 500m above sea level, and Pyrenean freshness create a unique spot about 30km south of Carcassonne. Perhaps Bertrand’s ‘icon HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIE wine’ will be just the thing to kick start a 95 95 95 Limoux bubble, pardon the pun. Bertrand POINTS POINTS POINTS is reported to be directly benchmarking against top Champagne rosés. That’s some gauntlet. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 19 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_2F7/A0.4in/2d0d151 2:34 pm

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYTHE CURIOUS CASE OF ALBARINOALBARINO has had an interesting story it seems to have never got over this wines of Vinho Verde. Here it is known ascoming to Australia. It was nearly ten years false start to life in Australia. Perhaps it alvarinho. Traditional Vinho Verde winesago now that the news broke that what is because it coincided with the rapid were bottled with some carbon dioxidewe thought was albarino vines planted expansion of imported wines into Australia which was the bi-product of a secondaryin Australia was in fact savagnin (AKA providing consumers with more choices? malolactic fermentation.traminer). You have to go back to 1989 Albarino (or Albariño) comes from the farto the source of the error where initial north western Spanish region of Galicia It is not surprising to see albarino grownimports of vine material purchased from which fronts both the Atlantic Ocean and in the Hunter Valley, a region that canthe Spanish National Collection and sent the Bay of Biscay. It has a long wine history experience wet harvests and rot issues.to the CSIRO were incorrectly labelled. stretching back to the 16th Century. It is It shares some similarities with semillonIt was only discovered when French commonly a single variety but can be being prone to high yields and is happilyampelographer Jean Michel Boursiquot found blended with other white varieties made unoaked. Winemaker Andrewfrom the University of Montpellier, such as treixadura, godello and loureiro. Margan from Margan Wines in Brokequestioned the authenticity of vines he planted albarino in 2014, having sourcedfound planted in the Barossa Valley. Albarino (or Albariño) his cuttings from Yalumba nursery. He has just had his third vintage in 2018. It was a huge mistake, given that comes from the far northsavagnin, a grape found in the Jura I asked him what first made him interestedregions of France, was, and still is western Spanish region in this variety. “We have spent a fair bit ofregarded as a less attractive grape and time in northern Spain including doingharder to sell. However savagnin does of Galicia which fronts the Camino de Santiago twice. In ourmake some interesting wine and is famous time in Galicia we had the opportunity tofor producing the sherry-like flor affected both the Atlantic Ocean taste a lot of albarino and discovered howvin janue wines. In fact, as a side note, amazing the wine can be. Rias Baixas isCrittenden Estate on the Mornington and the Bay of Biscay. actually classified as warm maritime justPeninsula turned adversity into opportunity like the Hunter Valley and the very bestand went ahead and produced the Cri Galicia is made up of a number of wines we tasted have a lot in common withde Coeur Savagnin, a barrel fermented regions including Ribeiro, Valdeorras, Hunter Valley semillon, for example theywine that is aged under flor for a four Ribeira Sacra and Monterrei. But it is the give ripe fine flavours at lower alcoholsyear period before being bottled without sub-region of Rias Baixas that dominates and high acidity.“filtration, fining or stabilization (current plantings and where the Albarino shines.vintage is 2013). When the news broke it Here the weather is cool to warm and Albarino can be grown successfully instopped a number of producers labelling often wet with sea mists, conditions that both cool and warm climates. It retainstheir wines and subsequently vignerons do not suit many grape varieties. However, good levels of acidity and has a rich palateeither went with the flow or grafted over because of its thick skins albarino avoids similar, but not as intense as, viognier.the savagnin. But this is not the first time rot problems and can tolerate wet weather The warm climate styles can display richwe have misrepresented grape varieties and even rain at harvest. floral, honey and stone fruit aromas. Theand you only have to go back a further cooler styles tend towards citrus, marzipan20 years to the early 70’s when we called The grape travels from Galicia over the and apple.semillon - Hunter River riesling, crouchen border to Portugal and is found in the- Clare riesling and shiraz - Hermitage. Albarino’s aromas are from the vast array of volatile compounds that can be found What is curious about albarino is that in the wine. The grape varieties share similar compounds to gewürztraminer and muscat. One of the most common is20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

2-phenylethanol which can be identifiedby a floral rose and honey aroma. Linaloolis another whilst the presence of Limonenegives citrus peel aromas. As his vinesmature and come into balance, Andrewis finding some fascinating aromas andflavours starting to develop. “We are thefirst to grow it in the State so I am having tolearn as I go along with the flavour profileand structure of the wine. What I did noticethis year was a really strong 'Fruit Tingle'flavour coming in at around 11.5 % sugar.In fact it was the development of this ripeflavour that made me decide to harvest thegrapes. I didn’t want grapes to go into thenext stage of ripeness which starts to pickup spice and have the 'diesel' character.”Andrew used the leaf canopy to shade thefruit so as to not expose the young vinesto too much sun and heat, which can bethe cause of the spice and then petrol/diesel terpenes (chemical compounds)developing. “The other thing I noticed thisyear was how salty the fruit tastes and thathas translated through to the finished wine.The Spaniards believe the salt comes fromthe Atlantic but I can assure them we area long way from the Atlantic!” He remarks. Winemaking of Margan’s albarino is keptsimilar to semillon with natural yeast usedand a cool 15-18 degree fermentation instainless steel. There remains only a handful of producersof albarino in Australia but I’m confidentthis variety has found a new home and abright future. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGA LOAD OF BOLOGNA - ITALY'S FOOD CAPITAL WELCOMES THE WORLD'S LARGEST AGRI-FOOD PARKBOLOGNA, the oldest university town in founded in the 1980s. Eataly World hopes baskets designed by Bianchi, the world'sEurope, boasts several nicknames - la to welcome six million visitors a year oldest bicycle maker still in business. Thedotta (the learned), la rossa (the red) for and there's certainly plenty of room to atmosphere resembles the sort of foodits politics and la grassa (the fat) for its accommodate them in the kilometre-long precincts we are used to in Australiapre-eminence as one of the major culinary lineup of shops and pop-up stores. such as the Tramsheds in Sydney. Acentres of Italy. Many of the foods and mix of upmarket providores, cookingdishes that define Italian cuisine - parma Last November, tradition schools, food demos and restaurants,ham, balsamic vinegar, parmesan cheese, albeit on a much larger scale. There aretortellini, mortadella and tagliatelle al ragu took a backseat when over 40 branded Italian eateries that runhail from the surrounding region of Emilia- the gamut of budgets from Michelin-Romagna, which is home to Italy's highest Eataly World - the largest starred Amerigo to street food stalls.number of IGP and DOP-designated foods Open kitchens are the norm and manyand wines - 44 in all. But last November, agri-food park on the of the restaurants hold daily sessionstradition took a backseat when Eataly showcasing locally-produced foods andWorld - the largest agri-food park on the planet - opened its doors food prep techniques.planet - opened its doors 30 minutes drivefrom Italy's \"City of Food\". 30 minutes drive from Any kids in tow and adults suffering from culture overload will appreciate Developed at the cost of $193 million, Italy's \"City of Food\". the touchscreens, holograms andthe ambitious project is a collaboration interactive media that take you throughbetween private investors, Bologna's Yes, I can see why there has been the history of Italian food, the millennia-civic authorities and Oscar Farinetti, the a lot of grumbling from locals and the old relationship between humanity andmastermind behind the globally successful long-established residents of Bologna's nature and the importance of eating well.Eataly food hall chain. Founded in 2004, Mercato Mezzo, where generations of Four universities are also working withEataly now has 38 outposts around the families have displayed their meats, Eataly World's backers on new advancesworld. Italy itself has the most stores, but vegetables and cheeses. But here's in sustainability. In the Pasta Emporiumthe company has expanded into the US, the thing. Anyone visiting Bologna from section, you can watch sfogline (pastaGermany, Japan, South Korea, Brazil, the overseas can enjoy a wonderful day out maestros) roll out sheets of fresh lasagne,Middle East, Russia and Scandinavia. But at Eataly World and also stroll through the hand-cut tagliatelle and fold tortellini.even if you have visited one of these huge local farmers' markets set amid the city'supmarket mega-stores, nothing prepares Renaissance squares and alleyways. Italian flair and style is the guidingyou for the 10 hectare spread dubbed the rule and there's nothing cheesy at all,Disneyland of Italian food. Eataly World is free for starters. Forget no matter what the critics say. In fact, the theme park jibes, one of the most fun parmesan cheese cannot be made in Much of the action is focused on the things to do is ride around on one of the Eataly World because the site is sevenMercato, a 100,000 square metre expanse 500 adult-sized tricycles with shopping kilometres outside the IGP (Indicazionecarved out of the old Agri-Food Centre Geografica Protetto) limits for Italy's mostof Bologna, a former wholesale market famous cheese. Mortadella is mass-22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

Leave an Impression Eden Valley, South Australia Single Vineyard Winesproduced all over the world but it is one of by to taste famous varietals such asBologna's most iconic sausage products. sangiovese and albana in the companyArtisan makers are even in decline in of artisan winemakers and oenologists.Italy, but one of the first stands inside the The feeling is half working winery and halfMercato is a traditional mortadella maker. wine emporium and the tasting tables also offer prosciutto and dry-cured capocollo. Pop-up stores selling fresh produce and Luca Pirola, the internationally known barItalian kitchenware, classrooms, sport and expert, has also curated a selection 200play areas, a cinema and a 1000 seat vermouths, 100 gins and 200 bitters youconference centre have drawn the ire can buy or enjoy immediately in cocktails.of slow food fans. But it's hard not to be Looking for a quenching ale? There's ancharmed by Eataly World's surrounding on-site Italian craft brewery.hectares of farmland, home to hundredsof cows, pigs and chickens and the Terra I left Eataly World after enjoying a glassdel Tartufi. If you have ever wondered of sparkling Pignoletto wine and oysterswhy labradors are the number one choice in the seafood emporium, an homage toof truffle hunters, expert finders of the the nearby Adriatic coast, and a gelatoculinary delights are on hand with their by famed ice cream brand, Carpigiani.dogs to explain why. The labs are very The next day was set aside for enjoyingfriendly if you are missing your pet back the delights of the Quadrilatero, thehome as well. rectangular grid of mediaeval streets in the centre of Bologna, packed with There's also a semi-permanent crowd stalls and shops such as Baita Vechhiaaround the balsamic vinegar installation for cheese and Atti & Figli for pastries.which offers tastings of aged vinegars And what better way to end a visit than atranging from 12 to 25 years old. For Osteria del Sole, a lively bar that's beena small charge of two euros, resident serving wine since 1465. experts offer advice and insight into thesubtleties of vinegars from Reggio and Email: [email protected], also the home of Ferrari and Phone: 02 9955 2008Lamborghini, who both happen to have /TheCollectiveWinestands at Eataly World. @the.collective.wine Emilia-Romagna produces 15 per cent www.thecollectivewinecompany.com.auof Italian wines. Gruppo Cevico, foundedin 1963, and one of the most importantbusiness consortiums in Italian wine-making, were heavily involved in settingup the wine sectors of Eataly World. Stop July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 23

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON FAREWELLS AUSTRALIA - AND LIFEFRENCH gastronome and wine and food sleep on September 5, 1970, in the same California and called it Wayward Tendrils,writer Andre Simon celebrated his 87th English hospital as had his much-loved a Wine Book Collector’s Society andbirthday on February 28, 1964, with a wife seven years earlier. Described as Quarterly, taking the name unashamedlysuperb lunch at Perth’s Palace Hotel. He “the charismatic leader of the English wine from one of her favourite wine books,then boarded the ship Canberra for the trade” and arguably one of the world’s most Wayward Tendrils of the Vine, by Ianvoyage home to England. The lunch, his last influential wine and food writers, Simon Maxwell Campbell, first published in 1948.meal in Australia, was arranged by Western wrote and spoke thousands of words on As most of her members and contributorsAustralia’s Wine and Food Society and was his two pet subjects over a writing career came from the US, in particular California,another meal which impressed him. His spanning some 60 years and over 104 book or from Europe, she welcomed writers fromtime in Australia and New Zealand in 1963 titles. Only very few of those words had any the rest of the world. I think I was one ofand 1964 must have been exhausting. In direct Australian relevance. only two from Australia. Very occasionallythe hot weather he was ferried around as there would be a small mention of Australiamany vineyards and wineries as possible, Not surprisingly, he in the Quarterly, but I recalled nothingas well as restaurants and private homes about Simon’s visit to Australia or anything- everyone wanted the great Frenchman argued that his good about Australian wines.to sample their wines or at least to meethim and chat. He had a daunting and health was because I intended to write just two columns,exhausting timetable to keep, one which mainly about Simon’s visit to Australia inwould have tested even a younger man. he opened a bottle of 1963-64. Unzelman was delighted at theHe had always been healthy, despite all idea and encouraged me to write a littlethe wine and elaborate French food, and champagne at 11am more than the two columns I was proposing.claimed almost never to have been unwell. That was in February 2011. The first article,Not surprisingly, he argued that his good every day of his life. an overview of Andre Simon and his manyhealth was because he opened a bottle of achievements, appeared in Winestate forchampagne at 11am every day of his life. Tributes flowed as news of Simon’s July/August 2011. I have just sent off my death spread. Newspapers were full of his final Simon piece which, according to my On the way home Simon made the most achievements and advice, with The Daily rough calculations, makes a total of over 40of the comparative silence and lack of Telegraph calling him “the doyen of wine articles on the great octogenarian and hisinterruptions offered by shipboard life as connoisseurs in Britain and an epicure of experiences with Australian wine.he tried to make progress with the book he world renown”.was writing on Australian wine. We know This Simon piece is my second lastthat the book was a great success. When I decided to write one of my for Winestate. I have increasing health Winestate history columns on Simon problems, and being diagnosed with Somehow Simon found the physical and his Australian connections, I sought Parkinson’s disease in 2009 hasn’t helped.fitness and will power to make three more the opinion of Simon expert, wine book And I have some other personal writingoverseas trips - one to his beloved France collector Gail Unzelman. She is a devoted commitments demanding attention, sofor what he knew would be the last time, fan of Simon and is the compiler of the I’m unable to do the work necessary toanother to South Africa, where he was standard bibliography on him: Wine & submit respectable copy. For my finalinundated with hospitality from members of Gastronomy (Santa Rosa, California, column, next time, I shall look at somethe branches of the Wine and Food Society Nomis Press, 1990). For over 25 years of the people and events of the last 200(which he had founded in England in 1933 she issued a quirky, attractive, informative or so years which have caught my fancy,with his friend A J A Symons) and finally he magazine for wine book collectors world- and which I’ve written about since my firstflew to the US, where he was feted by young wide. She produced it from her home in column, on Australia and New Zealandand old society members. winegrowing founder James Busby, back in May/June 1997. Andre L. Simon died peacefully in his24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018



26 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

QUIET ACHIEVER Known as a France’s mass-produced wine region, Languedoc-Roussillon is evolving as a premium producer.DAN TRAUCKIFEW Australian wine drinkers are aware process grapes from hundreds of growers Quartourze, Rivesaltes, Saint-Drezery,of France’s Mediterranean wine growing to make just a few wines. Saint-Georges-d’Orques, Saint-Saturnin,region of Languedoc-Roussillon. The Sommieres and Terrasses du Larzac.region is the French equivalent to Australia’s The Languedoc story started in Narbonne,Riverland, only much larger. It is the “engine when the early Greeks planted vines there Unlike its better known, varietally-room” as it produces a veritable mountain in the 5th century BC. For 1500 years up focused cousins of Bordeaux (cabernet)of wine (more than one-third of France’s until the early 19th century the region had a and Burgundy (chardonnay and pinotwine) and is known as the source of cheap very good quality reputation. In fact, during noir) Languedoc is predominantly aand cheerful French wine. the 14th century the wines of Saint-Chinian blended wine region where a number of were prescribed for their healing powers by major and minor varieties contribute to the This rustic southern rural viticultural area Parisian hospitals. In the 19th century it all amazing wine tapestry.stretches from the Spanish border to the “came off the rails” when volumes soaredRhone Valley. It is by far the largest single and quality plummeted. So much so that The main white grape varieties grownwine growing region in the world at just during the first half of the 20th century, are some of the “internationally” renownedunder 300,000ha covering nearly 3000squ/ Algerian wine was often quietly brought ones such as chardonnay, sauvignon blanc,km. It has nearly twice the total vines in to bolster the quality of the thin, watery viognier, marsanne, roussanne, vermentinoof Australia’s 170,000ha. On average it local wines. Now the pendulum is most (known as rolle) and chenin blanc. Alongproduces around the same amount of wine definitely swinging back toward premium with lesser known/rarer varieties suchas the US and roughly three times as much quality wines. as mauzac (the main variety used in thewine as what the famed Bordeaux does. local sparkling, Blanquette de Limoux), The region has a wide variety of micro- bourbounlec, picpoul blanc, picpoul gris, As was the case with Italian Chianti last climates, ranging from the Languedoc macabeo, clairette blanche, grenache blanccentury, those who knew of the wines of vineyards (which are mainly planted along and grenache gris. The local sweet fortifiedLanguedoc considered them to be “vin the Mediterranean coastal strip) through to wines are predominantly made from muscatordinaire” or affordable quaffers at best. the Roussillon vineyards (which are most varieties - muscat blanc a petits grain and often planted in a patchwork along the muscat of alexandria as is the case in the However, like Australia’s Riverland, there is narrow valleys of the lower reaches of the Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC.a quiet evolution under way in Languedoc- Pyrenees). It has more appellations thanRoussillon, which is what a group of New South Wales has growing regions. The While there are some varietal wines, muchinternational wine journalists I joined recently main ones are Languedoc AOC (Appellation of the production is blended white wines,found out. Over the last two decades d’Origine Controlee), Corbieres AOC, with the proportions varying according tothere has been a shift towards producing Faugeres AOC, Fitou AOC, Minervois AOC the local AOC and the micro-climate.significantly more premium grapes and the and Saint-Chinian AOC. Within are thebest wines possible in the region. After a sub-appellations of: Banyuls, Boutenac, Among the white wines that stoodfairly long period when most of the wines Cabardes, Collioure, IGP Cotes Catalanes, out for me there were: Gerard Bertrandwere produced mainly by co-operatives AOP Cotes du Roussillon, AOP Cotes (ex-international rugby player) Chateauand known for their “sameness”, a handful du Roussillon Villages, AOP Cotes du l’Hospitalet Grand Vin 2017 - AOC La Clapeof producers in the late 1990s started to Roussillon Villages-Caramany, AOP Cotes Blanc, Chateau des Peyregrandes 2017-make premium wines by reducing yields du Roussillon Villages-Tautavel, Gres de AOC Faugeres Blanc, Gerard Bertrandand paying more attention to the terroir of Montpellier, La Clape, Limoux, Malepere, Aigle Royal 2016 - AOC Limoux Blanc,vineyards. There is now more wine being AOP Maury, Mejanelle, Montpeyroux, Vignerons Catalan Kaalys 2016 - AOP Cotesproduced by small individual winemakers Pezenas, Picpoul de Pinet, Pic Saint-Loup, du Roussillon Blanc, Paul de Chefdebienand less at the large co-operatives, which - Abbaye des Monges Cuvee Augustine 2016 - AOC La Clape Blanc and Domaine July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 27

Over the last two decades therehas been a shift towards producingsignificantly more premium grapes andthe best wines possible in the region.Cathare Caretas 2015 - AOC Limoux Blanc. vines and wines are given sufficient TLC. They at Domaine de Besombes in Rivesaltes The region’s rosé wines are famous as were the best red wines I tasted on the trip. we were served the stunning 69-year-old L’Amede 1949 natural sweet wine madebeing the most exported French rosé. Other red wines that stood out of the 1500 from grenache noir, grenache gris, grenacheThey are made form a number of different wines that were on taste for us included: blanc and macabeo. However my favouritevarieties, but often are cinsaut based with Les Domaines Paul Mas Clos du Moulinas wine of the tasting was the Singla Heritagegrenache and/or picpoul noir and terret 2016 - AOC Languedoc Pezenas, Blanville du Temps 1969 Rivesaltes Ambre, which atnoir used as well. While the famous fortified Murmures 2013 - AOC Languedoc Gres de 49-years-old was superb and quite similarwines from Banyuls and Rivesaltes are Montpelier, Domiane l’Aigueliere Cote Ruosse in flavour to a well-aged Rutherglen muscat.predominantly cinsaut based. 2015 - AOC Languedoc Montpeyroux, Les Domaines Paul Mas Chateau Paul Mas Clos Cremant de Limoux, are sparkling wines The Languedoc-Roussillon region grows des Mures 2016 - AOC Languedoc, Domane made via the Method Traditionelle mainlya number of red varieties - classic cabernet les Serrals Cote a Cote 2016 - AOC Faugeres from mauzac (70 per cent) with the balanceand merlot, through the traditional Rhone Rouge, Chateau La Negly La Falaise 2016 - being chardonnay and/or chenin blanc. Ifvarieties of syrah, grenache and mourvedre, AOC La Clape, Domaine de Cabrol Vent d’Est on the bottle it says “method ancestrale”,to the lesser known carignan and cinsaut. 2016 - AOC Cabardes, Clos Saint-Sebastien then it is 100 per cent mauzac, fermented Inspiration Celeste 2016 - AOC Collioure, only once, kept on lees for less time (usually Shiraz is the main variety of Languedoc’s Domaine Boudau Le Clos 2017 - AOC three months less) and is bottled accordingred wines and is often the “lead” in a Cotes du Roussillon and Les Vignerons du to the lunar cycle.blended wine. Caramany (Co-op) Reserve Rouge Carmin 2016 - AOP Cotes du Roussillon - Villages- One wine of particular interest to me was Many of the region’s red wines are blends, Caramany. AOP Picpoul de Pinet. Picpoul is a rathersomewhat similar to Australia’s GSM, only a rare native French white variety that is thebit lighter, brighter and much more vibrant. Apart from table wines, the region also absolutely perfect companion for oysters.This vast region produces exciting wines produces two other excellent wine styles: There were 20 picpoul on taste and allwhich offer excellent drinkability, diversity Vins Doux Naturels, which is what they were good-to-excellent wines - all that wasand amazing value for money. call “naturally sweet” wines in that before missing were the oysters! fermentation is finished, brandy is added, One evening while staying in the beautiful, leaving a degree of natural grape sugar/ The stand-outs from the tasting were:quaint walled town of Carcassonne we visited sweetness in delicious dessert wines. The Les Domaines Paul Mas 2015 Jean-a little wine bar. I was blown away by the two white Vins Doux Naturels are made from Claude Mas - mas de Mas, Les Vignobleswines that Chateau Maylandie of Bautenac one of the several muscat variants (muscat Montagnac 2017 Les Terres Rouges,(Corbieres) had on offer - the carnache a petit grains), while the reds from Banyuls Chateau de Pinet - Gaujal de Saint Bon -(50/50 blend of CARignan and GreNACHE) are made from grenache. These wines 2017 Chateau Pinet and Domaine Felines2011 and 2007. They were brilliant, with age almost forever and are very special. Jourdan 2017 Cuvee Classique.great depths of vibrant colour, lovely spicy, For example, at the superb barbecueherbal aromas and they were so smooth and In Australia there are two picpoul producersdelicious on the palate. Perfect advocates for - Coriole Wines (McLaren Vale) and Borrowedwhat the area is capable of doing when the28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

Cuttings (Cowra -set up by the guys fromMoonlight Flat Oysters of Batemans Bay onthe south coast of NSW). Both of which arebang-on the mark with their wines. Giventhe variety’s blissful match with oysters (andother seafood), I am sure that it will not belong before this delightful wine is more widelygrown and available here. Despite the fact that the region is biggerand produces more wine than mostwinemaking countries, thanks to the drivefor quality, I suggest you don’t dismissLanguedoc/Roussillon, but rather give it a goand you will be pleasantly surprised as I wasby the vast array of great wines produced.From delightful sparkling wines, throughcrisp white, vibrant reds, to some stunningdessert wines. The region has spectacularscenery, including such notable sites asthe medieval walled city of Carcassonnewith the unique Hotel de la Cite as well asspectacular vistas of the MediterraneanSea, the Pyrenees and beautiful valleys andgorges. Languedoc is “ready to rock” foryou. Bon Chance Mon Amis. Previous page from left to right, top to bottom:Chateau la Negly in Fleury d’Aude – La Clape, Bushvines at the medieval Border between France & Spainin the Pyrenees, part of the vineyard at Domaine DeBesombes - Rivesaltes, the hills overlooking the ValleyDe L’Agly.Pages 28-29 from left to right, top to bottom: Themedieval walled city of Carcassone, BBQed Escargot,Valley De L’Agly from the peak, Salse Castle inRivesaltes- Pyrenees, The wines of the De L’Agly Co-operative, Chateau L’Hospitalet -Narbonne. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 29

aStedituscbteivset.Heathcote30 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

MICHAEL HINCESurprisingly, given its reputation for sublime shiraz, my very firstHeathcote red was an early 1970’s cabernet from Paul Osika’s Graytown cellar door. Subsequently an occasional Zuber Estate, a Tudhope Heathcote Winery or two, a flight from Wild Duck Creek, a modicum of Mt Ida (sadly one of its original co-owners, artist Leonard French died recently) and many a Jasper Hill hastened my conversion to and love of Heathcote shiraz. Even hardened whisky drinkers like Jeff Kennett succumb to a glass or three of Whistling Eagle now and then! When I visited Heathcote in the early 1980s I was amazed by the ability of its young, immature vines to produce such complex, deep, harmonious flavours. Little wonder the likes of She Oak Hill’s 45 year old vines are making consistently good wines now. To what extent and in what way Heathcote’s deep Cambrian soils contribute to its shiraz’s uniqueness, individuality, pre-eminence and universal popularity is beyond me; suffice to say I love warm climate full- bodied, inky, voluptuous reds. None more so than Mark Hunter’s Sanguine Estate’s consistently fine, ambrosial 2013 Progeny and his luxuriant 2014 D’Orsa. It’s no coincidence that Mark makes wine under contract for She Oak Hill, Domaine Asmara and for the private label of former cricketer and latterly horse racing fanatic Simon O’Donnell. My introduction to Mark’s wines was an O’Donnell ‘Red Red Wine’ – it was sensational. Established in 1997 in the heart of the Heathcote GI, Sanguine Estate’s 22 hectare vineyard and winery are surrounded by three of the region’s oldest vineyards: JasperJuly/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 31

Hill’s Georgia’s Paddock, Seppelts Mt Ida and She Oak Hill. Its roots date back to the mid to late 19th century when Mark’s great, great grandfather Pietro D’Orsa set up a small vineyard in Maldon. \"Our family still owns the original Maldon vineyard and we took cuttings from it and grafted them onto some Sanguine vines, one of which was Muscat Gordo Blanco and the other remains unidentified,\" says Mark. The ‘mystery’ varietal is slightly pink in colour and when vinified exhibits strong cumquat and mandarin flavours. It will be available as a dessert wine in mid-2018. Made offsite in 2000, Sanguine Estate’s first shiraz vintage, dubbed a ‘fruit bomb - with a 45 second residual sensation’ sold out within a week. Initially Mark learnt from the likes of Matt Hunter (no relation) from Langanook at Sutton Grange and Red Edge’s Peter Dredge. By 2004 the Sanguine Estate winery was up and running and a year later Mark wisely engaged Ben Riggs with whom he works to this day. \"Ben’s been invaluable in helping me achieve consistency of style. He’s a brilliant blender and encourages me to keep experimenting.\" Mark relies on indigenous yeasts for nearly all his ferments and is constantly doing something different with each of his 16 small fermenters. Understandably low yielding shiraz dominates the plantings, supplemented by small lots of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and viognier mainly for blending, with chardonnay and tempranillo making up the rest. Apart from its obvious vibrancy and velvety richness, what distinguishes Heathcote (and Sanguine) shiraz is \"its complex tannin profile and its opulent, mouth-filling texture, it’s all about texture, texture, texture,\" says Mark. Plus of course, its ability to age well. \"Also Heathcote’s many single vineyard sites and small producers help define the region’s terroir and the complexity of its varying sites,\" Mark continues. For example, \"at Sanguine it’s not all about dominant, decaying Cambrian rock, we have a combination of shallow sandy loam over decaying mud stone on our highest site and silty clay from old river beds at our lowest point\". \"There’s also a deep seam of deep clay loam filled with decaying Cambrian rock taking up the bulk of our planting through the centre32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

of our vineyards – these three differing sites offer exciting blendingopportunities and allow us to make consistent and complex wines,\"Mark concludes.Yes, the region’s traditional, tannin shiraz ‘fruit-bombs’ remain popularhowever diverse stylistic variations are a hallmark of contemporaryHeathcote shiraz with \"better viticulture and earlier harvests resultingin a less alcoholic, prettier, more nuanced style,\" says Mark.\"Yes terroir is important, but terroir-driven wines don’t have amonopoly on quality, vintage variation aside. Some winemakers areusing whole bunches and a touch of viognier to make aromatic,savoury, spicy shiraz.\"But there’s more to Sanguine Estate than just good wine, there’s analluring energy, vibe or chutzpah that permeates the place. This is inlarge part due to Mark’s father Tony whose astute business expertisegot Sanguine off the ground. Tony’s also an entertaining cellar doorhost, the last time I visited I intended to say for an hour but four hourslater Tony and I were still delving into the delights of a flight of D’Orsa!Then there’s Mark’s sister, CEO Jodi Marsh whose marketingprowess makes the place hum, which is all about ensuring a visit toSanguine is pleasurable, entertaining and in the future as interactiveas it can be. Wine tourism is important to Heathcote, hence the needfor more accommodation.The annual Sanguine Chamber Music Festival, now in its fourth year,is rapidly growing in stature, acclaim and popularity thanks to thecharisma of internationally renowned Australian cellist and chambermusician Howard Penny.As the vines age so will the quality, finesse and diversity of Heathcoteshiraz continue. And for an emerging varietal to add an overduesecond string to the region’s bow - my money is on tempranillo orsangiovese with Nero d’Avola as the dark horse.Regardless, there is more to Heathote than just shiraz and there’smore to Sanguine Estate than just D’Orsa or Progeny. There’s anupbeat, sense of positivity and optimism that comes from the ‘theglass being half full’ or just being temperamentally sanguine - longmay that continue! Previous pages: Sanguine vineyards. Opposite page: Mark Hunter.Top: Mark Hunter vineyard tour. Middle: Mark Hunter working in the winery. Bottom:Sanguine bottle lineup. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 33

HAIIMGHINFGLYHERIGHERDENIS GASTINYOU would expect that anyone bearing launch more broadly into wine sales, The show premiered on Discovery’s TVthe nom de plume Flying Winemaker wine appreciation and wine education, Asia Network and has reached over 160would be able to boast a range of McDougall set up a Hong Kong-based million households in Asia and Australasia.adventures and new frontiers, but few business in 2011, which he called The Subsequently it was screened acrosscould expect the vast and incredibly Flying Winemaker. His stated goal was Central and South America and has beendiverse range of wine experiences that “to take the snobbery out of wine and available more broadly on Netflix sinceFlying Winemaker Eddie McDougall has revolutionise its consumption across July 2017. It has also been showing onposted - and in a relatively short time. the Asian Continent”, launching in Hong in-flight entertainment services on top tier Kong as a first step. It made such an airlines globally. After finishing a degree in international impact in a very short time that just onebusiness at Queensland’s Griffith University year later The Flying Winemaker was Taking his Asian wine adventure to ain 2003 he then did a winemaking degree declared “No 1 Wine Retailer in Hong new level, in 2016 McDougall launchedat the University of Melbourne and built Kong” by The Drinks Business Magazine. the ground-breaking Asian Wine Reviewinto this program lots of first-hand practical This was followed by an award from Hong concept. He felt that while the quality andexperience working at a cross-section Kong lifestyle magazine TimeOut as one uniqueness of Asian wines has comeof Australian wineries in three states, of “The Top 20 People Changing The Way such a long way, consumers and decisionincluding Shadowfax, Giant Steps, Clyde We Eat And Drink”. makers in the food and beverage industryPark and Wood Park wineries in Victoria; are still hesitating to commit to AsianDeep Woods Estate in Western Australia The Hong Kong experience encouraged wines, and that an active tool to give themand O’Leary Walker in South Australia. McDougall to commit more broadly to confidence was needed. understanding how wine is positioned in His next frontier was to have a first- other countries in Asia and to share this Asian Wine Review is an annual booklethand experience in the traditional wine with local and international audiences. that presents reviews of locally producedhomelands. After graduating in 2008 he He patiently explored this territory with a Asian wines using conventional internationalheaded for Italy, first to leading Barolo TV production crew to make a 13-episode tasting procedures applied by panels ofproducer Vietti then to the renowned series on wine in Asia called The Flying professional local and international palatesMas de Daumas Gassac in Languedoc. Winemaker, for the Discovery Cable TV familiar with the Asian wine scene fromOn his way back he stopped in Hong channel, which went to air in September both the wine production and appreciationKong to spend time with his mother and 2014. The focus was on the many ways perspective. (I have chaired one of thewas convinced by a family friend to stay food and wine are consumed and enjoyed panels each year.) The aim is to reveal to theon and make Hong Kong’s first wine at across Asia, and the unorthodox and broader audience the unique quality that isEighth Estate Winery - importing the sometimes unique methods developed for being achieved by Asian winemakers andfruit, and fermenting and finishing it off growing quality grapes in unconventional also to show the unique grape varieties thatlocally. He also started his winemaking viticultural environments and the resulting are being made into quality wine locally. Itoperation in Australia, initially with the wines. He covered China, India, Thailand, is very significant that at least half of theHong Kong market in mind. Japan, Taiwan, Vietnam and Bali. 40,000 printed copies are now being taken by people in the food and beverage trade. Partly to sell these wines but also to34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

IT’S BEEN A METEORIC RISE FOR FLYING WINEMAKER EDDIE McDOUGALL, BUT THE MAN WHO REVOLUTIONISED THEASIAN WINE INDUSTRY IS PLANNING A NEW FORAY INTO CHINA.July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 35

The exciting thing about Australia is that it is very proactive in its promotions to the world and has a good focus on engaging its neighbouring Asian wine drinkers, especially those in China.36 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

The 2018 edition of Asian Wine Review, to the casual yet aspirational lifestyle And, are there other new horizons for thisreleased in March, is the third in the series. of the modern wine drinker in Asia. It is adventurous Flying Winemaker? Yes, heEntries for this edition were judged in Hong a wine category, he says, that is finally says, of course!Kong in October 2017. The book contains on the way back and notes “there is ascores and professional reviews of the huge opportunity for rosé in Asia, based “Our future is now focused on the159 short-listed wines from 54 producers on its compatibility to the climate, its production and distribution of my ownin nine Asian countries. It is published in ability to match with local cuisines and brand of wines. The demand for them hashard copy in three languages (English, a good cross section of accessible price organically grown over the years and we areChinese and Japanese) and free e-copies points”. In 2017 he held large-scale now making wines not just in the King Valleyare accessible on the website (www. Rosé Revolution events in Hong Kong, but also in Margaret River and Languedoc.asianwinereview.com). Singapore and Tokyo. In 2016, events Our next big project in the winemaking were also held in Shanghai and Macau, To add further momentum to this initiative, as well as Singapore and Hong Kong. space will be in Ningxia, China”. McDougall hosted the Asian Wine Festivalin Hong Kong in April 2017 to get morepeople in the region respecting anddrinking Asian wines. Over 60 Asianwineries participated in the day of activetastings and masterclasses on Asianwine topics at the event, from countriesincluding Japan, China, Indonesia, India,Thailand and Myanmar. There were over300 visitors to the festival - from the wineand food sector and the media, as well asconsumers. This professional exposure of winemakersin Asia has increased dramatically thenumber of Asian wine brands being listedin importer and wholesaler portfolios, whichin turn has inspired the procurement for theon and off trade sectors. In his own winemaking world, McDougallhas now ceased his Hong Kong winemakingand is focused on producing wines inAustralia, in the King Valley and MargaretRiver, for local and international markets.He says, “Australia is important to what Ido and is an important part of The FlyingWinemaker story. It’s where it all started forme and is currently also the biggest marketfor my Australian wine. The exciting thingabout Australia is that it is very proactive inits promotions to the world and has a goodfocus on engaging its neighbouring Asianwine drinkers, especially those in China.” Rosé has recently become anothercreative frontier for McDougall. In 2016he launched the Rosé Revolution, anAsia-wide promotion of rosé as a winestyle that lends itself particularly well July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 37

38 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

PWAITNREISTTIA perfect blend of Old & NewNIGEL HOPKINS numbers, the demand for Italian style red also increased and Giovanni’s new business flourished.Few cities can boast of having two exceptional vineyards withintheir suburban boundaries, but Adelaide has two of them – From 1926 until the early 1990s, Giovanni and then his threePenfolds Magill Estate vineyard, the home of the famous Grange sons Peter, John and Geoff Patritti oversaw all wine and juiceshiraz, and the Patritti vineyard just south of the city, just one production, with Giovanni having by then built his own winery.hectare of 110-year-old grenache and shiraz grapes making itthe oldest commercial urban vineyard in the world. By the 1950s population growth and the demand for housing saw much of the land converted to residential allotments and It’s a story of survival just as remarkable as that of Giovanni dwellings. Only a few tiny vineyards remain; the most significantPatritti, who was among the first Italian immigrants to in arrive in of these is the world famous Marion Vineyard, planted in 1907South Australia. and now owned by the local council. In 2006 the council decided that the last operational winery in the district, Patritti, In 1925, the 25 year old Giovanni boarded a ship at the port of should be given the responsibility of caring for the vineyard,Genoa and left his Northern Italian Piedmontese village of Carru which now produces the much acclaimed Marion Vineyardwith ideals of a new beginning and skills in winemaking. He Grenache Shiraz.believed he was on his way to America to meet his sister. Insteadhe landed at Port Adelaide, South Australia, in April 1926. In 1960 the Patritti family needed new land to keep up with the growing wine business, and the natural choice was the nearby Despite not having a word of English, Giovanni still managed region of McLaren Vale, fast growing as one of Australia’s mostvery quickly to gain employment, changing his Italian name to famous wine growing regions. Two sites, one in Blewitt Springsthe more ‘Australian’ John. Like many migrants to Australia at and the other in Tatachilla, were purchased and planted withthat time, to survive he had a number of different jobs, including shiraz and grenache.selling ice cream at Adelaide’s Botanic Gardens. Each year the best rows from Patritti’s Blewitt Springs But just one year later, he was leasing vineyards south of vineyard are selected and the fruit used to craft the company’sAdelaide and making wine for his fellow ‘new Australians’. An flagship wine, JPB Limited Release Shiraz. The label designopportunity had arisen within the Marion district to lease and is reminiscent of the earliest Patritti labels and features thethen purchase vineyards. As more Italians arrived in steady original JPB - ‘John Patritti Brighton’ – logo, referring to the July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 39

In 1925, the 25 year old Giovanni greater region of Adelaide where the winery is located. Today,boarded a ship at the port of Genoa and the original JPB branding iron is still used to stamp barrels.left his Northern Italian Piedmontesevillage of Carru with ideals of a new Another exceptional parcel from the Blewett Springs vineyardbeginning and skills in winemaking. is selected for use in the Lot Three Shiraz, with the remainder of the vineyard used in the Merchant Shiraz and GSM, and Old Gate Shiraz. Despite these wines being sourced from the same vineyard, the changes in aspect, elevation and soil type ensure each has its own personality. The Tatachilla vineyard, in the southern region of McLaren Vale, was planted in the 1960s with numerous grape varieties including grenache, with the intention of producing European style table wines, rather than fortified wines that were popular in Australia at the time. Situated just 3.5km from the coast, this vineyard is directly influenced by its immediate maritime climate and sea breezes. The fruit from these exceptional old vines is used to craft the Section 181 Single Vineyard Grenache and Merchant GSM. From the mid 1990s, Patritti employed a number of contract winemakers including Lado Uzunashvili, who introduced Giovanni’s grandson James to the Georgian variety Saperavi. In 2013, the Patritti Alternative Varieties Saperavi was awarded a gold medal at the Royal Sydney Wine Show – the first Australian40 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

Saperavi to ever reach this score on the national circuit. Thiswine now has a cult following. In 2001, the third generation entered the family business.Giovanni’s grandson James Mungall began working as winemaker. As the third generation in a family of winemakers, turninggrapes into wine came naturally to James: “I wasn’t forcedinto it,” he says, “I just grew up around the winery and neverthought of doing anything else.” James says the business remains very much a family affair:“We see each other every day,” he says. “We have modernisedthe winery a lot in the last few years, but we have maintainedthe old school values and heritage.” In 2006 he was joined by friend and fellow oenology classmateBen Heide and their experimentation with single vineyard winesand obscure varieties began. Over the years, Ben has been heavily involved in manychanges and, in some ways, a total metamorphosis of the brandand image of Patritti wines. Their passion for high-end, smallbatch winemaking has resulted in a red wine five-star ratingand many 90+ scores of current release wines. Today ‘brand Patritti’ continues to flourish within the industry,having shifted its focus towards premium wines and an adoptionof ‘new’ and rare grape varieties that add depth and diversityto an already extensive portfolio. Page 38 from left to right: Cellar door party, vineyard grapes, Ben Heide winemaker, James Mungall winemaker, historic Patritti image. Opposite page: Vintage and views over the vineyards, Patritti alternative varieties series. Right: James Mungall. July/August 2018 W I N E S TAT E 41

hong konggrapevineLUCY JENKINSIT’S the absolute height of summer in herbs and spices and stuffed into home- a rather run-of-the-mill warm salad.hot and humid Honkers and everyone made cheese bread, and all permutations Beet’s beauty lies in its modest but well-desperately tries to minimise any time of exceptionally well-executed paella. Elia executed dishes and with extremelyspent outside; thinking of increasingly is a new take on classic Spanish seafood humble pricing, it looks set to be one ofingenious ways of getting from bar to and its 186squ/m of space means you’re the more welcome new joiners of Sheungrestaurant to bar again without working always guaranteed a table - inside or out. Wan’s dining scene. Beet, 6 Kau U Fong,up a modicum of sweat. Elia, Shop 1, G/F, Wing On Plaza, 62 Mody Central, Hong Kong; phone +852 2824 Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui East; phone 2721 3600. 3898 or visit beetrestaurant.com. The new Elia, in Tsim Sha Tsui East,fits the bill, as not only is it located Unlike most places which open in It’s all change at Le Comptoir’s Bibosomewhere accessed by airconditioned foodie-focused neighbourhood of Kau where contemporary art meets French-undercover walkways, but it also has U Fong, Beet was a relatively modest Japanese fine dining. The upscalean outside terrace for those reckless opening, with no PR fanfare or clatterings restaurant group has hired Nicolas Chewenough to brave the elements. on Instagram. Right from the start it built to take over as executive chef, with former up hype organically. Chef Barry Quek, executive chef Mutaro Balde moving on There appears to be a bit of a who honed his skills at Joel Robuchon to become the head chef of the entire Lerenaissance happening in Hong Kong at in Singapore, and bar manager Raphael Comptoir group (think Djapa, Hotshot,the moment to do with summery nautical Holzer, who was previously the beverage The Ocean, TRi, UMI). Chef Chew useddining. Elia likes for its diners to think director at Hong Kong favourite Yardbird to man the hobs at recently shutteredthey’re on a Spanish galleon with its are a formidable duo, but again, humble Serge et le Phoque, which had beenpaddle-filled ceiling, hulking ironworks with it. Plump straight for Quek’s Tasting crowned with a Michelin star for the pastand all manner of heavy wood and blue Menu with snapper ceviche and chicken three years. Bibo’s bar is also getting anhues strewn everywhere. With 30 years of livers making for zesty and hearty ways overhaul, changing from a cocktail bar toexperience dotted around Spain, France, to introduce the Alice in Wonderland a wine bar offering the largest collectionMexico and Germany, Michelin star chef rabbit hole of textures and flavours you of wines by the glass in Hong Kong,Miguel Lopez has introduced Spanish will gladly fall down for. Unsurprisingly, overseen by head sommelier Sebastiencoastal dining to this harbour corner of the often unassuming beetroot plays a Chevalier. The whole space has beenHong Kong with fresh seafood plus hearty starring role. Served with homemade reconfigured with new art pieces anddoses of land-dwelling dishes. Highlights goat’s curd and buckwheat, the complex installations and will be looked after byinclude the lamb with roasted Gazpacho, and superb quality ingredients make for new general manager Gilles DubreuilCoquelet, a happy amalgamation of an impressive take on what is normally from Michelin-starred Apicius in Paris.prawns and chicken marinated in a mix of Some highlights of the new a la carte menu include the deep fried burrata with polenta and Japanese fruit tomato and the delicious, seasonal celeriac risotto with mango and French truffle. Don’t miss the pigeon with anchovy and brussels sprouts and save room for the dacquoise with strawberry and ash cream, a refreshing way to combat Hong Kong’s sky-high humidity. Bibo, 163 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan; phone 2956 3188 or visit lecomptoir.hk. Top: Food form Bibo restaurant. Left: Food from Beet restaurant.42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018



brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELFOR over a decade the talented team at guidance of chef Josue Lopez who, until over tomatoes, but there’s also someJocelyn’s Provisions has cornered the recently, wowed audiences at GoMA with strong Euro leanings in other dishes likemarket in irresistible baked goods. Growing his art-inspired dishes. beef with cabbage and horseradish, andout of a humble little kitchen and shop in barramundi with charred broccolini andJames St to a purpose-built state-of-the- Opal, so named for Lopez’s increasing turnips. Colourful ceramics and distinctlyart facility in Albion that is now home to a preoccupation with natural treasure and “of the moment” style plating add an edgededicated bread bakery, a sizeable multi- indigenous ingredients, land and seascapes and thoroughly modern feel to the food.disciplinary kitchen where everything from as a backdrop to the locally procured produce 73 Wickham Tce, Spring Hill; phone (07)fruit tarts to wedding cakes are made. It is of Moreton Bay and the rich hinterlands 3226 8888.separated from the team’s second shop by north and south of the city. Minjerribah (northa glass viewing wall so customers can see Stradbroke Island) is one such spot that has As if glamping in safari-style tentsall the baking and decorating action. A third inspired a seafood-rich creation for main overlooking a lovely lagoon and undershop popped up last Christmas at Camp courses and his signature dessert Fire of the a canopy of ancient scribble gums andHill, awaiting the completion of the build of a Desert, the indigenous meaning of the name paperbark trees isn’t enough of an incentivepermanent home in the southside enclave. of the light refracting gemstone, is the edible to head for the hills, here’s the kicker, the embodiment of an opal. Emporium Hotel location is smack bang in the middle of a So with the cake dessert and pastry market Southbank, 267 Grey St Southbank. winery! Sanctuary by Sirromet boasts 18sewn up, what could possibly be next? Good luxury tents surrounding the Merlot Housebaking takes time, cakes rise, breads are Salon de Co opened recently in the guesthouse all located on Sirromet Estate,slow ferments and layered special occasion Inchcolm Hotel in Wickham Tce, just a the family-run vineyard and winery at Mtcakes cannot be rushed. few minutes from the centre of the CBD. Cotton. Fifteen of the tents are for couples, The place has had many dining identities, two for families and one is a dedicated bridal Enter Short Order, a new concept designed the first of which was the highly acclaimed suite, and all feature king beds and en suites,by the same team with long-term general and eponymously named Armstrong’s, by deluxe linens, heating and airconditioning, wifimanager Rosie Conway at the helm. Largely legendary chef Russell Armstrong, when for those who still need that tie back to realitysavoury based with a full range of sauces, the hotel opened in the 2000s. Since then and a nicely stocked mini bar to help withdressings, dips and condiments to enhance its numerous incarnations have been met relaxation and immersion into the charmingthe main event, free-range chickens, lamb with varying degrees of delight, but now it surrounds. Breakfast hampers filled withand pork cooked on a French rotisserie has been acquired by the Ovolo Group and everything from freshly baked viennoiserie,alongside roasted root vegetables and a extensive refurbishment by designer Anna pots of granola and yoghurt and smokedcolourful array of salads, Short Order is a Roberts to the front foyer and restaurant salmon bagels arrive every morning, andveritable haven for the time poor. has ensued. Built in the 1800s, original lunch and dinner is available at the wineries design features have been highlighted and on-site restaurants and cellar door. Sirromet Serving coffee and delicious breakfast there’s an art deco overlay that references Winery, 850 Mount Cotton Rd, Mount Cotton;burgers, muffins, croque monsieurs, the 1920-’30s when the building housed phone (07) 3206 2999. patisserie and more from 7am, hot chicken medical rooms. Executive chef Anthonyand jus rolls, salads and lunch boxes packed Hales worked at Alchemy, Esquire, Tartufo Top: Roast lamb from Short Order restaurant.with roasted veggies smothered in romesco and Belle Epoque before taking up this latest Bottom: Roast Chicken & herb butter from Short Ordersauce or chimichurri, peanut and lime or challenge and his menu restaurant.yoghurt and dill, and whole chickens and shows influence fromroasts for dinner, Short Order is giving busy these establishmentsfamilies a perfect home cooked meal without as well as his work lifethe preparation time. Haven, 2/63 Skyring Tce, and travels throughoutNewstead; phone (07) 3252 9485. Japan, Korea and Australia. The Emporium Complex in FortitudeValley is largely known for three things - the Oriental influenceselegant boutique hotel located in the centre and native ingredientsof the bustling precinct, great shopping pepper the menu -and Tartufo, one of Brisbane’s best loved kingfish with IllawarraItalian restaurants. Now Emporium has plum and Mt Peppera southside location in the equally busy pork with daikon andprecinct of SouthBank. Emporium Hotel sesame and nativeat Southbank opened in August with its thyme and wild herbssignature restaurant Opal under the capable44 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

www.winestate.com.au WHITE WINE STYLES ALBARINO • ARNEIS • CHENIN BLANC • FIANO • GEWURZTRAMINER • GRUNER VELTLINER • PETIT MANSENG • PINOT BLANC • SAVAGNIN • VERDEJO • VERDELHO • VERMENTINO • WHITE RHONE varieties such as Marsanne or Roussane but NOT Viognier, and blends • OTHER AROMATIC WHITE VARIETIES & BLENDS- EMERGING VARIETY PREDOMINANT • OTHER FULLER BODIED WHITE VARIETIES & BLENDS - EMERGING VARIETY PREDOMINANT • PROSECCO • SPARKLING WHITE OR ROSÉ - not Muscat based, nor pinot noir or chardonnay Find out more at: Sponsored by www.winestate.com.au For entry forms, eligibility criteria and information go to:www.winestate.com.au/submit-your-wines RED WINE STYLES • AGLIANICO • BARBERA • • CABERNET FRANC • CARMENERE • • CINSAUT • DOLCETTO • DURIF • GRACIANO • • LAGREIN • MALBEC • MENCIA • MONTEPULCIANO • • MONASTREL/MATARO/MOURVEDRE • NEBBIOLO • NEGRO • • AMARO • NERO d’AVOLA • PETIT VERDOT • PINOTAGE • • SAGRANTINO • SANGIOVESE • SAPERAVI • TANNAT • • TOURIGA • TRINCADEIRA • ZINFANDEL/ PRIMITIVO • AUSTRIAN NATIVE VARIETIES/ BLENDS • EMERGING VARIETAL SPARKLING RED • SWEET DESSERT WINES & FORTIFIEDS

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING THE LOCAL joke in the southern waterfront to resist the Narooma oysters with pink Charles Pelettier blanc de blanc sparkler fromenclaves of Kyle Bay, Oatley and Connells shallots and white balsamic, octopus with Burgundy. Terminus Hotel, 61 Harris Street,Point is that most people leave the area on a smoked yogurt and black-eyed beans and Pyrmont; terminushotelpyrmont.com.one way trip - in a coffin. Full of multi-million taramasalata with squid ink crackers, avrugadollar homes boasting expansive views of caviar and chives. But char-grilled whole fish There's an old gag that runs - How can youthe Georges River, inner city denizens have is a speciality and the trout we ordered was identify pilots at a party? Answer: They'll soonto Google the names of the suburbs because so fresh it needed little or no embellishment. tell you. The waitstaff at The Imperial Hotelso few of the prestige homes feature in the in Erskineville don't waste a minute informingweekly Saturday auction results. We arrived at The one regret driving home was that we you that scenes from the movie Priscilla,Jaaks Restaurant and Bar at The Kyle Bay had refused the offer of a doggy bag for the Queen of the Desert were filmed at the Artevent centre on one of those warm, windless remainder of the Kreatopita - minced lamb pie Deco era watering hole, either. Following a $6nights that exactly mimicked summer weather in filo topped with minted yogurt. By the time million reno by Sydney Collective and a fit-outconditions on the Greek islands. this succulent dish appeared, our appetites by Alexander & Co, the main restaurant has were flagging. The wine list is a real drawcard been re-named Priscilla's, of course. Contemporary Greek cuisine has built up and includes modern Greek varietals madea formidable rep in Sydney in recent years from traditional grapes such as Malagousia The menu has a very south of the borderthrough Peter Conistis' Alpha, The Apollo and Moscofilero - bone-dry, citrus-edged slant with a dedicated ceviche bar. Theand Bazaari. The Christodoulou family, whites. An absolute find and well worth the 25 vegetarian delights are announced withwho run Jaaks and the centre, have been minute drive from the CBD. Jaaks Restaurant the tagline - Nobody puts veggies in thein the hospitality business for over 40 years. and Bar, 12 Merriman Street, Kyle Bay; (02) corner - and runs through wood-roastedIn 2016, two younger family members, 9546 5953. beets, smoked labne, lime caramel, spicedGeorge Christodoulou, and his sister, Diana pistachios and endive, zucchini noodles,Valsamis, took on the lease of the former Club David Mathlin and Binu Katari bought chilli, single clove garlic and aged parmesanBlakehurst and the property was given a multi- the Terminus Hotel in Pyrmont in 2016. and crabless fritter, jackfruit, palm hearts, baymillion dollar revamp to take full advantage of In spite of its 170 year old heritage, most spice and chipotle mayo.its spectacular location. people knew the venue as \"that old pub on Harris Street that's been boarded up for 30 Erskineville has one of the most vibrant gay The talented duo, with backgrounds in years\". Ace designer outfit Luchetti Krelle communities in Sydney and there's drag5-star hotels and finance, have also had the (ACME, Momofuku Seiobo) were called in to and dine shows and more on the weeklysmarts to hire Arman Uz as executive chef, work in collaboration with heritage architect event calendar. Half of the wine list featureswho kickstarted his career under the watchful Garry Stanley for a $4.75 million makeover. biodynamic and natural bottlings. A really funeyes of some of Turkey's finest chefs. He The result is an amalgam of the best of old night out and there's also a lengthy list of crafthas also worked with Somer Sivrioglu, the and new from ornate 19th century ceilings and draught beers. The Imperial Hotel, 35godfather of Turkish cuisine in Sydney, and and Victorian tilework to contemporary slick. Erskineville Rd, Erskineville; (02) 9516 1766.owner of the famed Efendy in Balmain andAnason in Barangaroo. The menu at Jaaks is Pyrmont is home to multi-million dollar Above & below: Food from Jaaks Restaurant, Kylemainly Greek with Turkish and Asian touches apartment complexes and the corporate Bay.to create inventive and sophisticated dishes HQs of Seven Network, Google, L'Orealwith heritage. Listings are divided into three and more, so the downstairs bar has beenmain headings - flora, ocean and fauna. Don't buzzing since day one. Another Efendyeven think of not ordering the housemade alumni, Bektas Ozcan, who has also workedvillage bread as you peruse the menu. at Matt Moran's Chiswick, has gone for a posh pub grub menu with a few Turkish-inspired To be honest, we stocked up a bit too flourishes. The steaks from the grill are agedheavily on the sharing plates. Throw out any cuts from the Riverina and Rangers Valley.preconceptions suggested by traditional Gourmet burgers and first-rate fish and chipsnames. The golden beetroot hommus with sit perfectly with mains such as roast pumpkinturmeric and dukkah was light years away risotto, chicken supreme with rosemary,from a supermarket dip and Jaaks Greek thyme, lemon and pearl barley salad. Whilesalad bears no relationship to the standard starters such as rolled cigar borek, buttermilkofferings at mainstream Greek restaurants. drumettes and sumac-cured calamari helpSeeking out the finest providores is a passion to soak up a refreshing ale, prosecco or ahere and the Tilba haloumi with local honeyknocked the socks off any dish containing theversatile Greek cheese I have ever tasted. A seafood dish was mandatory consideringthe Aussie waterfront setting and theMediterranean menu. It took a lot of willpower46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018



adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINS ANYONE who’s been around Adelaide and a dash of balsamic, or an exemplary with teriyaki mayonnaise and topped with arestaurants long enough will remember vitello tonnato, perfectly poached served “snow” of finely grated salted ricotta.Marco Furlan as the best Italian waiter in with tuna mayonnaise.town when he commanded the floor at the Among the meat courses, the standoutlong-established favourite Amalfi. Another classic, saltimbocca, is also a dish is the free range pork belly, three perfect rendition – top quality veal layered thick cutlets that have been slow cooked Then he reappeared as the owner-chef at with prosciutto, served with roast vegetables overnight then chargrilled, with a richly-beachside restaurant Café Salsa where he on the side. Perhaps his best dish, although flavoured Korean spicy chilli sauce. Thewon a resounding reputation as much for his not always available, is a baked duck risotto, wine list, though not especially long, hasfeisty, often fiery, personality in the kitchen where the rice has been cooked in duck much of interest. Level 1, 131 King Williamas for his wonderful and often bold take on stock, served with pistachio crumble on top. St, Adelaide. (08) 7123 4055. Open for lunchsouthern Italian cooking. La La La, 19 Gilles St, Adelaide. (08) 8212 Friday, dinner Tuesday to Saturday. 3535. Open for lunch Monday to Saturday, Now Marco has resurfaced again, this dinner Tuesday to Saturday. You’re in the city, it’s late, you want to eattime in the heart of Adelaide’s CBD at La and you don’t want to go Chinese, whichLa La. Instead of the sound of surf in the After 20 years of neglect, historic Electra you’ll easily find in Gouger Street. One of thedistance and a palm-fronded cabana out House on King William Street was given a better options, as its name might suggest,the front, this time he’s taken space under $10 million makeover to create a ground- is Midnight Spaghetti atop the Crown andan office and apartment block in Gilles St floor bar and a modern Greek restaurant, Anchor Hotel.– but, happily, nothing can bury a chef like Olea, upstairs. Despite having a highlyMarco and his food is every bit as good as credentialed Spanish chef at the helm, Ignore the seething downstairs bar scenehe served at Salsa, in fact better. it never quite worked and in time was and follow the glowing neon noodle up redesigned and renamed Level One, to this beautifully restored broad balcony He named the place for his mother, a this time with another well-credentialed restaurant.singer who, when she forgot the words to a Japanese chef at the stoves creating verysong, would sing “la, la, la”, as one does. He competent Asian fusion dishes. At midnight, “midnight spaghetti” is allalso managed to capture the best restaurant you’ll get, but what a sublime and deliciouschairs in Adelaide when the former Alphutte Again, the food offering was excellent but pasta dish it is, packed with chilli, anchovies,closed down, all soft black leather, ensuring failed to take off. Now, in its third attempt garlic, parsley and other good thingshis customers are the best seated in town. to win Adelaide diners, Level One looks guaranteed to see you through the night. as if it’s made the grade with Korean chef They’ll also get some of the best Italian Jamie Kang in charge of the kitchen and Earlier, there’s much more on offer, suchcooking, with dishes such as very simply a very competent floor staff in charge of as pappardelle with beef cheek ragu or atreated grilled calamari, served with chilli the customers. properly made carbonara. Don’t want pasta? Then try the Goolwa cockles in wine and The fusion of Korean and Japanese garlic, or lamb chops with king prawns and cooking has proven to be a highly popular asparagus. Terrific vegetarian side dishes combination, bringing together the best of include a couple of fat burrata sitting on both cuisines and chef Kang sure knows chargrilled broccoli and cauliflower. how to do it. He’s also had considerable experience working with Italian chefs, so Generous, noisy, you’ll want to stay up it’s not surprising to find the occasional even later. The short wine list is just as Italian influence on some of his dishes, enticing. 196 Grenfell St, Adelaide. (08) more in technique rather than produce or 7123 6125. Open for dinner Wednesday to flavour. Dishes such as ravioli with ricotta Sunday. and shitake mushroom and miso cream, or thickly-cut kingfish sashimi on fermented Top left: La La La restaurant interior. white kimchi are examples of this. Bottom left: Vitello Tonnato from La La La restaurant. Top right above: Level One restaurant interior. The result is a menu that challenges in all Top right below: Salmon Aburi Level One. the right ways, provides enormous flexibility and variety for the diner, and is sufficiently innovative to please culinary thrill seekers. The salmon aburi, with chopped and layers of salmon on crisply-seared sushi-style rice, with a sweet soy glaze makes a terrific start to the meal, as do the “snowed corn” – deep-fried, crisp corn balls held together48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018

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winewords TAS M A N I AFRED PEACOCK-OW N E R / V I T I C U LT U R I ST –B R E A M C R E E K V I N E YA R DSKYE MURTAGHTHE land and farming runs in Fred It occurred to me that, with the quality of disastrously cold and meagre 1992 vintage,Peacock’s blood. His forebears were wine being so dependent on the attributes followed by a similar one in 1996. By then,among the earliest fruit processors and of the grapes, then this new Tasmanian most of my friends thought I had gone nutsexporters in Hobart Town, reaching back cool-climate wine industry really did have and I was seriously considering my situation.to the mid 1800s. With his grandfather and an amazing future!father both involved in those businesses, How does the winemaking component ofit’s little surprise Peacock spent many a What was it like being part of those the operation work at Bream Creek today?day through his childhood running about pioneering wine days?in orchards and hop fields, checking With wineries requiring flat space, cleanon sheep and exploring the jam factory. I realise now just how much we didn’t know. water and lots of capital, I thought I shouldWhile his early professional days as a Not just about the risks, but also the great stick to the production and marketing andhorticulturist may have seen him working potential of cool-climate wine grapes. But we join forces with an established winemakercloser to his family’s roots, it seems as if he were all learning, swapping information and to share their facilities and skills. Ourwas destined to end up in the wine game. running various small trials in vineyards. In wines are still made off-site near Hobart atDuring his three years managing Moorilla fact the industry was very co-operative and Winemaking Tasmania, so we have accessVineyard, he purchased his own piece of there was a strong collective determination to a skilled winemaking team and up to datethe Tassie wine puzzle in 1990 - Bream to succeed - plus the sense we were on the equipment. I spend a fair bit of time out thereCreek Vineyard, overlooking Marion Bay cusp of something really significant. as we assess various batches of wine andon Tasmania’s east coast. He hasn’t looked treatments, and make some critical styleback - until now! Where do you feel you contributed most decisions leading up to bottling. to helping the industry get off to a strongHow did your first forays into the start? You’ve increased the varietal plantings atwinemaking game come about? Bream Creek since taking on the vineyard, I feel pleased to have played a role in tell us about introducing schonburger It was more through an opportunity that the development of the industry alongside into the mix?arose when I was employed in the Tasmanian those brave early vignerons. Whilst theirDepartment of Agriculture as a horticulturist knowledge of wine varieties and styles and I was initially involved with some earlyin northern Tasmania. Whilst my duties were of northern hemisphere cool-climate wine trial work of over 80 varieties whilst inmore aligned to pome, stone and berry fruit regions far exceeded mine, I was able to the Department of Agriculture, and threeplus some work with poppies, onions and assist by adapting some cool-climate fruit interesting varieties, bred for the veryother broad-acre horticultural crops, I also production techniques toward solving some cool regions of Germany, were includedstarted working with the early movers in of the challenges we encountered during - ehrenfehlser, reichensteiner andTasmanian viticulture. As vineyards started those early years of the 1970s and ’80s. schonburger. All three had the ability toexpanding in the 1970s, so did the demand drop acid in very cool areas, were reliablefrom the “pioneering” vignerons for cultural Let’s talk about those immediate years fruit setters in adverse flowering conditionsadvice, so I started working with them to after you bought Bream Creek. What were (it happens in Tasmania) and not pronetry and solve some cultural challenges. the biggest challenges in those early days to botrytis. But only schonburger had thisGiven the youth of the industry, and that a of the industry in Tasmania? amazing Turkish Delight/rose petal/lycheelot of the warmer-climate techniques were flavour profile, so I planted a small areanot relevant to the much cooler areas of Looking back, I barely survived. Interest in the coolest block at Bream Creek. TheTasmania, it was initially a matter of adapting rates on my mortgage were over 16 per table version is fabulous with Asian, Thai,general horticultural production principles to cent, I had a lot of vineyard renovation to Japanese and similar cuisine - the spiciervineyards - and to learn on the job! But the complete, launched the Bream Creek label the better! The dessert style is rich, but notreal revelation driving me was the fabulous and was still working at Moorilla for a while cloying, and has sensational flavours.reputation of Tasmania’s cool-climate longer. Wine did not enjoy the sort of profilefruits for exquisite flavour and freshness. with the Tasmanian public that it does today, so sales were challenging! Then came the50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2018