Winestate Magazine May June 2014

MAY/JUNE 2014 WINESTATE VOL 37 ISSUE 3 BEST OF THE WEST south africa SWEET WHITE & fortifieds adelaide hills central & WESTERN nsw north island, NZ print post approved 100003663 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE CORLANOINAUTBIOROWSN WTOHERWLINDE BEST OF TABLE WINES THE WEST EMERGE FROM THE 379TA S T E D PORT SHADOW May/June 2014 MalbecA PASSION FOR Vol 37 Issue 3 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 ZAR 150 PAYS OFF plus Central & Western NSW • Sweet White & Fortified • Adelaide Hills • South Africa • North Island (Wairarapa, Gisborne, Auckland & Northland) NZ







No.262 MAY/JUNE 2014Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] THE WOLF BLASSManaging Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] FOUNDATIONNZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael Bates Established 1994Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] Proudly SupportingMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] •Australian Wine Education,Tasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] •Viticultural, OenologicalPrinting DAI Rubicon Research & Development,Winestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] •Wine & Health,Contributors •Global WineNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley Industry ProfileSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin phone +61 8 8232 5322Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn [email protected] Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEurope André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Australia, Victoria & Western AustraliaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] South WalesPenny Banis - Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2014 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsMAy/june 2014feat u r es 36 THE DRAGON STIRS China’s fledging wine industry has30 RAINBOW NATION COLOURS come a long way since it first tried 34 THE WINE WORLD and failed to sell its “home-mades” While its wine industry can trace its to Australian drinkers in the early r eg u la r s genesis back to 1659, it took until 1990s. Dan Traucki reports that a the nation’s political rebirth in 1994 summer tasting of 30 Chinese reds, 10 Briefs for South African wine to take its whites and desserts, shows that 17 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper rightful place as an international Chinese winemakers are perfecting 18 European Report with Sally Easton player. Elmari Swart reports that the their art to the point where 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley pace of change since the mid-’90s Australians will soon be drinking 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King in the South African wine industry Chinese-made wines at their 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel has been astonishing, as it has favourite local Chinese restaurants. 46 Wine Words surged to eighth position in the 48 Grapevine world for overall volume production. 38 THE LAST OF HIS GENERATION 51 Subscription Form Dr Peter McMahon, founder of 56 Wine Investment & Collecting34 A PASSION FOR MALBEC Victoria’s iconic Yarra Valley winery 154 Aftertaste PAYS OFF Seville Estate, was one of the last Steve and Helen Palmer didn’t have great modern-day wine pioneers, an ideal start in the wine industry writes Jeni Port. Dr McMahon, who when they purchased their first died late last year, was a major land parcel in WA’s Margaret River driving force behind the valley’s region in the 1970s. Mike Zekulich wine industry revival in the 1970s. writes that their perseverance has He was the last surviving member paid off after they transformed the of a trio of valley “greats” - Dr John then unfashionable malbec grape Middleton (Mount Mary) and Dr into a premium varietal, and in the Bailey Carrodus (Yarra Yering) - process won Winestate’s Gold Cup who worked to put the valley back for best alternative red in 2013. on the wine map. 40 TABLE WINES EMERGE FROM THE PORT SHADOW Portugal and fortifieds have gone 128 New Releases and Top 40 together for centuries, writes Andre 140 Best Buys under $20. Pretorius. But change is starting to sweep through Portuguese vineyards w i ne tast i ngs as more growers see the benefits 64 Western Australia of producing fine table wines. Lead by larger-than-life winemaker Luis Seabra, an association of five wine estates is championing a red and white wine revival. 88 Central & Western NSW 94 South Africa 104 Adelaide Hills 110 Sweet & Fortifieds 116 North Island, NZ Winestate Magazine 120 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Issue Number 262 For a complete list of what we tasted for this May/June 2014 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Cover photograph Dmitriy Cherevko.

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editorialT H I S I S A FA S C I N AT I N G I S S U E in that for the firsttime we have put together a comprehensive tasting of over 200South African wines for your interest. What seemed appropriatewas that this was done at the Perth Hyatt and we know thatWestern Australia has a large population of expat South Africans(a number of whom we met at the public function after the tasting).As many of the current SA winemakers pointed out, theseexpats left during the bad old days of SA winemaking where thesignature pinotage was widely disparaged in the internationalcommunity as being rough and ready. Not so now with the newage of SA winemakers producing contemporary styles across allvarieties that can compete with any wines around the world. Oneinteresting swipe came from a SA winemaker saying that expatsstill expect to buy SA wines at the old 20 rand ($A2) prices and“to get over it”.For us we noted the friendly but competitive nature of their wineproducers. Maybe a tri-nations wine challenge in the future?Back to our mainstream tastings; we have a massive line-upof great wines for you to try. Our annual Best of the West tasting continues to produce the wide range ofvarietals and styles that cover hot to very cool micro-climates. Continuing on the cool-climate spectrumwe also have some amazing wines to recommend from the Adelaide Hills and arguably our best line-upof wines for a long time from the NSW Central and Western regions of Mudgee, Cowra, Hilltops, CanberraDistrict and Southern Coasts. Across “the ditch” New Zealand winners from the North Island were ablyselected by our panel, lead by New Zealand’s foremost wine critic, Michael Cooper.For our style tasting this issue we focused on the dessert styles of sweet whites and fortifieds. These arewines that have diminished over the years due to lifestyle and government regulatory issues but thankfullyseem to have levelled out with the best stable producers remaining. There is no doubt that at their bestthese are world class and it could be argued that a bottle or two should be in every household for thatspecial occasion. Although we have gone along with the industry requirement of calling sherry “apera”and tokay “topaque” we are not sure that there has been sufficient marketing or educational push to excitethe consumer.For our feature articles we have a nice South African wine overview from respected wine book writer, ElmeriSwart; a Palmer wine piece from our Winestate WA stalwart, Mike Zekulich, a Chinese wine update fromindustry wine specialist, Dan Traucki and a Douro (Portugal) article from our international writer, AndrePretorius, which is a good lead in to our fortified tasting. Sadly, Jeni Port provides an obituary to RobMcMahon, of Seville Estate, one of the pioneers of Victoria’s Yarra Valley.As always, lots to read and lots to taste. Enjoy!CheersPeter SimicEditor/PublisherMay/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsA RARE BARRELThe team at Ekhidna not only have their award winning winesand \"Ekhidna Cellar door and Kitchen\" but now wine lovers canjoin winemaker Matt Rechner for a full day wine masterclassand then, with his assistance, blend a 225ltr barrel of their ownpremium Shiraz. The resultant RARE BARREL SHIRAZ will beestate bottled into 20 dozen 750ml bottles plus 1 dozen 1.5ltrmagnums and 2 huge 6ltr Jeroboams. This innovative packagewould normally cost over $19,000 but is being offered for $9,990and includes entry into Winestate tastings, dinner for two personswith Matt and a credit on the label as co-winemaker.STRUGGLE STREET SERVICE RECOGNISEDWHEN Treasury Wine Estates new chief executive, Michael ONE of Australia’s most successful businessmen, Bob Oatley,Clarke, takes up his position in March he inherits a struggling was recognised in the Australia Day honours list. Wine industrycompany going through some of its most difficult financial times. veteran Oatley was appointed an Officer of the Order of AustraliaThere’s last year’s $34 million write down of some 600,000 cases (AO) for his distinguished service to the Australian wine andof wine deemed as too old for the American market coupled tourism industries, to the sport of yacht racing, and to thewith a $82.4 million write down on the value of bulk wine that community as a supporter of medical research and visual artswas sold off at super cheap prices. Then there’s the shrinking organisations. Having established the world-renowned winery,Asian wine market, once considered the savior of many an Rosemount Estate, in 1969, Oatley is credited with having helpedAustralian wine company, with TWE recording an 18 per cent place Australian wine on the global stage, pioneering new winedrop in the volume of wines sold there, principally in China, styles and methods of marketing. In 2006, at 80 years of age, heSingapore and Thailand. established Robert Oatley Vineyards, based in Mudgee. Today,But there is also good news, kind of. The release of Penfold’s Robert Oatley Vineyards wine is distributed internationally and2014 “icon and luxury” collection this year sees some lovely is one of Australia’s fastest growing family-owned wineries. “I’mwines coming through except that the tough 2011 vintage means exceptionally humbled by this recognition,” he said. “To share mythere will be no Bin 707 cabernet sauvignon or Bin 169 cabernet passions of wine, sailing and Hamilton Island, as well as my goodsauvignon released. But there is a rather smart Grange 2009, fortunes to aid cancer research and visual arts with the people ofwhich should make up for some of the disappointment that Australia, gives me immense pleasure and pride.”Clarke, a former Kraft and Coca Cola manager might be feeling.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32710 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

briefsWEATHER PLAYS ITS PART TASTE OF TASSIEBUSHFIRES, extreme heat and heavy rains welcomed the start of SAVOUR Tasmania, a relativelythe 2014 vintage across the wine regions of Australia. In Victoria, new festival celebratingbushfires in February flared up near Warrandyte in the Yarra Valley Tasmanian food and wine,and in the Macedon Ranges. Ruth Ellis at Hanging Rock Winery in has quickly built up a devotedthe Macedon Ranges lost her house at Riddells Creek in the fire following. Created to promotebut the winery, 20 minutes away, remained unaffected. “We were a awareness of Tasmania’slittle worried about smoke taint issues (in the vineyard),” she says. clean, green produce and cool-“Luckily at the time we didn’t have any veraison (colour change in climate wines, Savour has attracted leading chefs from around thethe grapes) and so it wasn’t an issue. world, who work with local artisans and farmers to create a program“Lack of water has been an issue in Heathcote and a lot of of fascinating and thought-provoking dinners, tastings and classes.our growers were affected by the frosts earlier in the season, World-class chefs, including colourful wild man Alvin Leung fromalthough many of those vineyards have bounced back well.” Hong Kong, who hosted a memorable dinner at Hobart eatery MeHeat and extreme weather conditions in Victoria with around Wah; Sydney legend, world-renowned Tetsuya Wakuda, Martin Bosleysix days of 40-plus Celsius over January and February have from New Zealand and Spanish maestro Paco Roncero have lit up thereduced yields between 20 and 40 per cent. In February up event. Other previous guests have included The Cook and The Chefto 100mm of rain fell in just 24 hours in the Clare and Barossa stars Simon Bryant and Maggie Beer, South African celebrity chefvalleys. Some producers reported fruit splitting in their shiraz Margot Jansz and Shane Osborn from Pied a Terre in London. Theand cabernet sauvignon grapes. However, overall, the rain 2014 edition of Savour Tasmania, to run from May 21-24 in Hobart,seems to have been good for the vines freshening them up in promises to be equally adventurous, with an Asian theme and guestthe lead up to vintage. chefs, including Bali-based Will Meyrick, with Dan Hong and Daniel Wilson. Key events include another al fresco PorkStars tasting in theCHARDONNAY CRUSADER TMAG courtyard with guest chefs Daniel Wilson, from Huxtable, and Jesse Gerner from Bomba, both in Melbourne, on May 21. A dinnerWENDY Lloyd, co-founder of Eldridge Estate, died mid-February at The Henry Jones Art Hotel on May 22 will feature Will Meyrick fromafter a long and brave battle with cancer. She and her husband, Sarong and Mama San, Bali, and E & O, Jakarta, with hotel executiveDavid, established their 3ha vineyard at Red Hill in 1986 and chef Andre Kropp. The Long Table dinner on May 24 will showcaseplanted it to chardonnay, pinot noir, gamay and sauvignon innovative dishes from Meyrick, Dan Hong from Mr Wong, Ms G’s, Papiblanc. While he became a crusading spokesman for the little Chulo and El Loco, Sydney, Christopher Shane Chan Yai Ching fromknown gamay grape, his wife was an enthusiastic promoter Nobu, Melbourne and other guest chefs. See www.savourtasmania.of all things chardonnay, her love of the grape earning her the com.au for prices and details on events at Stillwater in Launcestonmoniker, Queen of Chardonnay. and Bayviews in Burnie.This link is only for WineState readers visit www.hastwellandlightfoot.com.au/winestate to find out more Tyson Stelzer called us “quiet achievers”. After 25 years in McLaren Vale growing grapes and making award winning wines, we think it is time to be a bit “noisier”.Give the link a try, it is the key to something only available to WineState readers. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsTEMPLE OF AFRICAN GASTRONOMY NEW ROLEJOHANNESBURG is not a city that is generally on the agenda YALUMBA and Hill-Smith Family Vineyards chief winemakerof food and wine lovers; but The Saxon Boutique Hotel, Villas Louisa Rose has been elected the 15th chair of the board forand Spa has become a stand-alone destination with two the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). AWRI managingtop-notch restaurants and a wine program that includes five director Dr Dan Johnson said: “Louisa Rose is a highly-respectedqualified sommeliers. With a wine team led by Gareth Ferreira, winemaker with a strong record of contribution to our industry.who has worked at the seven-star Burj Al Arab in the Middle I look forward to working closely with Louisa as the AWRIEast, the Saxon makes gourmet guests very much at home. continues its focus on delivering high-calibre research withThe Saxon is known as a temple of African gastronomy, with its practical outcomes for the Australian grape and wine industry”.Qunu Grill specialising in grilled meats. The restaurant’s Xhosa Known for her work in pioneering viognier in Australia, Rose hasname pays homage to the Eastern Cape village where former more than 20 years of wine industry experience and has beenpresident Nelson Mandela was born. The hotel is also home to chief winemaker at Yalumba and Hill-Smith Family Vineyardsthe ultra high-end five hundred restaurant, and David Higgs, since 2006.who oversees both kitchens, was the 2013 South African Chefof the Year. His philosophy is to use only the freshest seasonal SUMMER GUIDEingredients and the hotel has its own herb and vegetablegarden. Dinner at the five hundred is a remarkable experience, THE new guide to touring Tasmania’s vineyards has beenparticularly if you allow one of the hotel’s team of sommeliers to launched to help assist visitors navigate their way aroundchoose wines to match your six-course degustation. Executive the island during the busy summer tourist season. The 2014chef Higgs’ dishes are a work of art (think foie gras and garden Tasmanian Wine Routes publication features 64 cellar doorsbeets with savoury granola, pomegranate and juniper salt, or and vineyards (including several newcomers), alongside amaybe Wagyu fillet and smoked brisket with barbecued king wide range of complementary tourism and food businesses,oyster mushrooms and greens). There is also a special area of the attractions and services. In launching the publication, Winerestaurant reserved for degustations matched with champagnes Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies emphasised the importancefrom the House of Ruinart, known as The Ruinart Experience. “We of wine tourism to the state’s wine producers. “Around halfcreate our menu to the demands of gastronomy cognoscenti - of Tasmania’s total wine is sold within the state, to locals andpeople who combine a love of food and champagne with a taste visiting consumers. Tourism is therefore vital to the majority offor luxury and quality of life,” says Higgs. A member of Leading the state’s wine producers,” she said. The free Tasmanian WineHotels of the World, The Saxon has several times been named Routes publication is enormously popular, reaching more thanas the best boutique hotel in the world. “The Saxon Hotel has 250,000 people through the printed and digital versions. “Thealways prided itself in the professionalism and expertise of our release of the 2014 edition coincides with an upgrade to thesommeliers being able to offer and pair the best wines from Wine Tasmania website, allowing visitors to access the listingsacross the country and the globe,” says managing director on any mobile device and interact with Google maps to planGeorge Cohen. The Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, 36 Saxon Rd, their itinerary of the island’s cellar doors and vineyards,” DaviesSandhurst, Johannesburg; phone 2196. +27 11 292 6000. www. said. The publication also includes details of major wine-relatedsaxon.co.za. events taking place in Tasmania during 2014. Copies are available online at www.winetasmania.com.au/wine_routes.com.PASSION FOR THE PYRENEES au or by contacting Wine Tasmania on (03) 6223 3770. Copies are also available at cellar doors, airports, tourism outlets andYOU can take the Frenchman out of Australia but you can’t take visitor information centres.Australia out of the Frenchman. Vincent Gere, the former chiefwinemaker at Blue Pyrenees Estate, might have returned to Franceto work for Remy Martin back in 1998 but a little piece of Australiahas always stayed with him –his cabernet sauvignon and shirazvineyard in the Pyrenees. Each year, Gere and his wife, Pauline,return to the Pyrenees to oversee blending and production of fruitfrom the vineyard at a local winery. Production is small, just 100cases under his Dellys wine label and he views the opportunity toreturn here more as a restful interlude than work. “I am attachedto this region,” he says.Now, the head of Remy Martin’s Cognac division, Gere overseesevery aspect of the production and promotion of cognac but stillleaves time to make red wine here and in Cognac (chardonnay)under the Dellys label. He muses he might even retire to thePyrenees one day.12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

briefsBACK IN BUSINESS HIDDEN GEMPENFOLDS’ iconic Magill Estate restaurant has been re-born after TUCKED away in the remote countryside of the Derwent Valley,extensive refurbishments and a change of kitchen team. The historic overlooking the river at Glenora, the Meadowbank Vineyard is oneproperty, part of the Magill Estate winery complex in the Adelaide of Tasmania's best-kept secrets.suburbs, is now led by chefs Scott Huggins, Emma McCaskill and While owner Gerald Ellis releases small quantities of wines fromEmma Shearer, together with the front of house staff, including the property under his Ticklebelly label, the 39-ha vineyard is bestrestaurant manager Martin O’Connor and sommelier Ewan Proctor. known for producing quality cool-climate fruit for some of the bestThe aim is to deliver an intimate dining experience in an environment labels in the country. House of Arras sparkling wines, Bay of Fires,that reflects Penfolds’ history and a natural synergy between the Kate Hill, Glaetzer-Dixon and Dawson and James all source fruitinterior, wine and food. The chefs say that the new menu is lighter in from the vineyard, first planted in 1974, as do Sam Connew for herapproach, yet still packs a punch, with dishes such as the fermented Stargazer label, Frogmore Creek for its gamay and Home Hill forpickled cucumber with tomato ice; and calamari, paprika, chlorophyll its sauvignon blanc.and preserved lemon. McCaskill says: “The progressive philosophy Meadowbank fruit has been used in the Eileen Hardy Chardonnay,behind the menu is for each dish to complement and link in with won a Jimmy Watson Trophy (Glaetzer-Dixon Mon-Pere Shiraz) andthe next, like a story. As soon as the guest sits down they receive played a role in numerous awards won by the Arras range. So whata selection of snacks, which is ultimately a form of entertainment makes Meadowbank fruit so special? Ellis says it is summed up byso there’s something constantly going on”. Penfolds’ Magill Estate a French word called “terroir”, which if you ask him to translate forRestaurant is open Wednesday to Saturday from 6.30pm with a you he will say: “We just don't know”. Around 70 per cent of theseven-course dinner tasting menu for $175 per person and matching vineyard comprises chardonnay and pinot noir, and Tim Jameswines for a further $100, or a luxury wine matching for $250. Sunday from Dawson and James, says: “There is something special aboutlunch is served from noon, with a four-course menu for $135. the fruit quality”. There are also small portions of sauvignon blanc, riesling, pinot gris, shiraz and gamay - all managed viticulturally to the instructions of clients. Ellis bought the vineyard in 1976, as a grazing property, but is now devoting all his energies to the project following the sale of his Meadowbank Estate label to Frogmore Creek. The property comprises 2500ha in total and another 100ha have been identified as being ideal for viticulture. Expansion may be just around the corner if Ellis finds the right investors or partners.REACHING FOR THE SKY WINE ‘ROYALTY’THERE is a new era at 130-year-old McWilliam’s Wines with a HEADING into his 21st vintage at Grant Burge Wines, chief winemakermove to champion the high-altitude vineyards of New South Wales. Craig Stansborough was named Winemaker of the Year at the BaronsMcWilliam’s, now with Jim Chatto as chief winemaker, has a long of the Barossa celebrations in February. “I feel extremely honouredhistory of leadership in NSW winemaking, planting the first vines in the and humbled by this award,” he said. “To be placed on an honour rollRiverina in 1913 and at Gundagai in 1896. In recent times the family- with so many talented Barossan’s is very humbling.” Stansboroughowned producer has led the way using Hilltops and Tumbarumba joined Grant Burge Wines in 1993 as cellar manager and was soonfruit. The launch of the new Appellation range in March is the start promoted to assistant winemaker in 1994, winemaker in 1995 andof a program that will see McWilliam’s progressively launch five new senior winemaker in 1997. “Grant and I share common ideas andtiers of NSW wines, ranging from $13 to $55, ascending in altitude as beliefs,” he said. “He is very receptive and open to new ideas andthey do in quality and price from 220m to over 900m. Each range will allows experimentation, which I believe is very important for the futurebe packaged to showcase the beautiful landscapes and encourage development of the company and its portfolio.”consumers to discover the state’s wines and emerging regions. The The wine fraternity Barons of Barossa was founded in 1974ranges will be McWilliam’s Foresight Gundagai Range RRP $13, by a group of influential Barossa wine industry personalities.Elevation Range ($16), Appellation Range ($24), Single Vineyard www.baronsofbarossa.com.Range ($35) and the flagship wines: McWilliams 842 TumbarumbaChardonnay, GDR Hilltops Cabernet and Morning Light Botrytis. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsBATTLE IS OVER CELEBRATING A DECADE WITH A NEW STYLEFOR nine years, Mornington Peninsula winemaker CrittendenEstate battled with Woolworths to end the confusion in wine RUTHERGLEN’S Scion Vineyard and Winery is celebrating its 10thdrinkers’ minds between its wines and Woolworths’ $4.99 vintage with a new-look cellar door and new-look wines. SinceCrittenden & Co wines. planting in 2002, Scion has developed a reputation for premium durif,For nine years they debated, discussed and ultimately could not including what are fast becoming signature wines, the Durif Viogniercome to a mutually acceptable solution. They agreed to disagree. and After Dark (a semi-sweet durif, best served chilled with darkIn late January of this year, in frustration, Garry Crittenden wrote chocolate). Scion’s new-design cellar door features a large, vibrantan open letter to Australian wine writers outlining the fact that purple front door signalling the unexpected, while “The Grandfather”,his wines were in no way associated with Woolworths and that, a huge graphic bearing the face of pioneering Rutherglen vigneronindeed, Crittenden Estate did not supply either Woolworths or GF Morris - the great-great-great grandfather of owner and winemakerColes with wine. The extensive social media pick up that ensued Rowly Milhinch - keeps an interested eye on the tasters. A formeris believed to have led directly to Woolworths announcing in graphic designer, Milhinch has also changed the design of Scion’smid February that it would cease production of wines under wine labels, with a different abstract colour-way expressing theits Crittenden & Co label. Existing stock will be allowed to run personality of each wine. He also exhibits his own photography in theout. Crittenden & Co is a reference to the name of a well-known cellar door, offering insights into life in the vineyard and winery, theMelbourne wine merchant of the 1970s, Crittendens. When region and his travels. “While I tip my hat to regional traditions, ScionWoolworths bought the company in 1987 it kept the name, is focused on forging a new path to make considered food wines inreleasing it as a value-priced brand, Crittenden & Co, in 2003. styles I’m passionate about,” he says. See www.scionvineyard.com.Woolworths has sold more than 17 million bottles of wine underthe label, making the decision to discontinue an interesting andno doubt expensive one.WILDERNESS SETTING CRAFTY SOMMELIERACCLAIMED West Australian winemaker Larry Cherubino will INSIDE many sommeliers is a winemaker aching to emerge - butreturn to one of the world’s most remote settings, the Kimberley’s Patrick White, chief sommelier at Sydney dining icon Otto, wentfamous Faraway Bay wilderness retreat to host an exclusive a step further and actually crafted wines that now grace thefour-day wine tasting event - Wine in the Wilderness, from July restaurant’s wine list. Otto has been a waterfront meeting place29 to August 2. Just 16 guests will indulge in tastings of his finest for Sydney movers and shakers since March 2000. Called the Ottodrops, including vertical and regional tastings, fine wine and food Nostrano wines, there are now three wines on the Otto list that arematching, and more. sommelier-made wines and the first fruits of the Otto wine project.Returning for his third year as host of Wine in the Wilderness, “As a sommelier, I had fancied I knew a thing or two about howCherubino describes the trip as the ultimate dream holiday for a wine is put together,” White says. “But it’s not a one-man job.”wine, food and travel connoisseurs. “Faraway Bay is one of White’s partner in this project is Willow Bridge Winery in Geographe,Australia’s hidden gem locations,” he says. “And if you love wine, Western Australia, whose winemaker is Simon Burnell, an oldthen you’ll be in good company. I’m looking forward to sharing school friend of White.some of my favourites, and what an amazing setting to do it in.” “Now we have three small-batch wines that have been lovinglyVisit www.farawaybay.com.au or phone 0419 918 953. hand crafted and elegantly packaged for exclusive enjoyment alongside Otto’s cuisine,” White says. The trio comprises a semillon/sauvignon blanc, a rose made from sangiovese and a red blend of sangiovese and shiraz. All are available by the glass. Otto Ristorante, Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo; phone (02) 9368 7488. www.ottoristorante.com.au.14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

briefsTIME TO CELEBRATE NEW LOOKFOURTH-GENERATION wine family Eliza, Angela and Nicholas IT IS 40 years since the first bottle of wine was made under theBrown, owners of the historic north-east Victorian winery All Jacob’s Creek label. Over that time there have been ownershipSaints Estate, are celebrating 150 years of winemaking in 2014. changes and new directions taken, but the logo has remainedSituated at Wahgunyah in the Rutherglen region, All Saints the same. There was only one Jacob’s Creek wine for theEstate was established in 1864 by original Scottish owners, first 13 years - a shiraz/cabernet blend that was released inGeorge Sutherland Smith and John Banks, and harvested its 1976. Then came a “rhine riesling” in 1984 and a full range infirst vintage during the Victorian gold rush. 1987. Subsequently, sparkling wines were added in 1998 and“To mark 150 years of winemaking is an incredible milestone a reserve range in 2004. Since then the Cool Harvest rangeand we are proud to be the guardians of this iconic estate, has been added, Trilogy sparkling wines have been brandedpassed on to us by our late Dad, Peter,” said CEO Eliza Brown. as Jacob’s Creek and last year the Twin Packings range of“We are honoured to be entrusted with a century-and-a-half sweeter wines was introduced. This year the entire rangeof tradition while at the same time employing a very modern has been re-branded with a new icon that features two vineattitude to winemaking and business. Dad would be proud.” leaves representing the vineyard that the winery’s founder,On May 3, the Brown family will host a special celebration Johann Gramp, planted on the banks of Jacob’s Creek in 1847.paying homage to the past 150 years and the decades ahead, Between the vine leaves flows the creek itself, from its humbleinvolving the local Wahgunyah community. A bespoke menu beginnings to the flourishing stream that ultimately fills a winecreated by head chef Simon Arkless, from the one-hat Terrace glass. The new visual identity will appear on all packagingRestaurant on the All Saints Estate property, will focus on local and ranges, including Classic, Reserve and sparkling wines asproduce, including estate-grown lamb with wines from the well as ranges such as Cool Harvest and Twin Pickings. “Wehistoric cellars. are very aware of the history of the brand, but there is also a history of innovation and we are always looking to be able to do something new and different,” says chief white winemaker Rebekah Richardson, who is part of a team led by veteran Bernard Hickin. MEASURING RIPENESS WHAT is the optimal ripeness for a South Australian cabernet sauvignon? According to a recent study, the answer is 13.6 per cent alcohol. Conducted by the Australian Wine Research Institute in Adelaide, the study looked at five cabernets from a South Australian vineyard harvested between one and four weeks apart, with differing levels of ripeness ranging from 11.8 to 15.5 per cent in alcohol. The wines were then given to 108 consumers, who drink wine at least once a week, to measure their response. Researcher Dr Keren Bindon admitted that she had expected the flavours and textures of higher alcohol wines to be the wines consumers most responded to. “This is what makes the findings so interesting,” she reported. “You can actually bring alcohol down naturally in the vineyard, as you are not gaining anything from a consumer standpoint by waiting for flavour and texture to change as the grapes ripen further.” There are no plans to extend the research into other grape varieties. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 15

nzbriefsTOP HAWKE’S BAY WINERY SOLD 2014 LOOKS LIKE A BUMPER HARVESTTRINITY Hill, one of Hawke’s Bay’s most acclaimed wineries, has HARD on the heels of the record 2013 vintage, talk around thebeen snapped up by Charles Banks, formerly co-owner of California country has been of another bumper crop in 2014. After ideal“cult” winery, Screaming Eagle. Banks, who last year bought Qupe, weather during the vines’ flowering and fruit set, regular rainfallin Santa Barbara, and Mayacamas, in the Napa Valley, also has triggered vigorous growth. In Marlborough, where two-thirdsother wine ventures in the US and South Africa, but the acquisition of the country’s vineyards are planted, the vines carried manyof Trinity Hill represents his first thrust into New Zealand. Banks’ bunches and those bunches had record numbers of berries.initial move was to purchase a 25 per cent stake, but subject to To produce a quality, full-flavoured sauvignon blanc, about 12official approval, he will become a majority shareholder, with 67 per tonnes of grapes per hectare is regarded as ideal. However,cent. Trinity Hill was founded in 1993 by three families (hence the many growers in the Wairau Valley were expecting at least 15winery name): Robert and Robyn Wilson, owners of the Bleeding tonnes of grapes per hectare and reports surfaced of over 30Heart restaurant group in London; Auckland merchant banker Trevor tonnes per hectare on some sites.Janes and his wife, Hanne; and South Australia-born winemaker,John Hancock and his wife, Jennifer. Banks is planning to build a During summer, a lot of fruit was “dropped” by hand ornew winery for producing Trinity Hill’s top reds, which include syrah mechanical harvesters, which knock some of the individual berriesand Bordeaux-style blends. “Syrah is as expressive as pinot noir to the ground. But “many, many growers have lifted their yields toat reflecting terroir,” he believes. “But people (in the US) think that 16-18 tonnes per hectare, to get back margins lost in the 2009-southern hemisphere syrah is 16 per cent alcohol and 200 per cent 2012 price drop,” reported one of Marlborough’s most experiencednew oak… Hawke’s Bay syrah is amazing.” viticulturists. Over a year ago, experts predicted that, given normal weather, Marlborough would have a bumper harvest in 2014,MARTINBOROUGH MOVES potentially upsetting the supply/demand balance restored since 2012. Will 2014 plunge the industry back into oversupply? “TheBILL Foley, an American billionaire, snapped up Te Kairanga, final decision on how many grapes to harvest rests with individualone of Martinborough’s oldest and largest producers, in 2011. growers and wineries,” commented Philip Gregan, CEO of NewAlthough posting big losses at the time, Te Kairanga gave Foley Zealand Winegrowers.good volumes of pinot noir to sell in the US, to supplement hisexisting supply of Marlborough sauvignon blanc under the THE ORIENTAL EXPRESSClifford Bay, Vavasour, Dashwood and other brands. Foley nowhas his sights on another of the district’s most famous wineries SINCE the 1980s, a host of liquor conglomerates and overseas- Martinborough Vineyard. The company has 14 shareholders, private investors - most often from Australia, the UK, the US,headed by Sinclair Long Term Holdings (itself owned by Forsyth Europe and Japan - have bought vineyards and wineries in NewBarr chairman Sir Eion Elgar and others) with a 13 per cent stake. Zealand. The latest arrival is China. CK Life Sciences, based inMartinborough Vineyard reported a loss of $NZ2.37 million in Hong Kong, already ranks as the second-largest vineyard owner2011 and after an 18 per cent drop in domestic sales in 2013, it in Australia and New Zealand. In November, CK Life Sciencesrecorded another loss of $NZ858,289. The sale is expected to bought 400ha of vineyards in Waipara, Marlborough and Centralbe completed by the end of March. Otago from one of the South Island’s largest wine producers, Mud House. CK Life Sciences has links to another Hong Kong- based group, QWIL Investments, which last year purchased the sweeping, 130-ha Northbank Vineyard in Marlborough, now leased to Treasury Wine Estates (Matua). Regenal Investments, also owned by Hong Kong investors, in 2011 gained a controlling stake in four large vineyards, totalling 748ha, in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. The grapes are sold to Delegat’s/Oyster Bay. Last year, O:TU Investments gained approval to purchase 336ha of vineyard land in the Awatere Valley, Marlborough. The company, which in 2013 produced about 60,000 cases of wine under the O:TU brand, is owned by a Shanghai resident, Min Jia. In November, Shanghai-based CRED Real Estate acquired Northland’s largest vineyard and winery, Karikari Estate, which forms a key part of Peppers Carrington Resort, north-east of Kaitaia. The new owner will promote the resort to wealthy Chinese tourists.16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS michael cooperSAVVY SETTLES INTO ITS STRIDEOVER half of all New Zealand wine is Crawford, Nobilo, Oyster Bay, Stoneleigh distinguish between Marlborough andproduced from a single grape variety grown and Villa Maria Private Bin - are made Chilean sauvignon blancs. Another threatin a single region. Marlborough sauvignon annually in hundreds of thousands, even is global warming.blanc dominates the country’s wine output millions, of cases.and certainly enjoys a high international But for those truly interested in the styleprofile, but will the good times last? But is this runaway sales success (and who doesn’t enjoy a glass or two on compromising its quality and reputation? the right occasion?) there are countless Not everyone adores Marlborough “To a large extent, sauvignon blanc is variations on the theme of Marlboroughsauvignon blanc, but its crisp, exuberantly New Zealand wine - and irredeemably sauvignon blanc - a fact worth celebrating.fruity flavours are a perfect partner for dreary much of it is too,” declared Jancis Winegrowers are now eagerly exploring themodern, Asian and Pacific-influenced Robinson in 2012. “Although there are effects of the region’s individual terroirs.cuisine, with its emphasis on fresh herbs, some admirable and distinctive exceptions,produce and seafood. So popular is far too much Kiwi sauvignon blanc comes Marlborough’s sub-regions produceMarlborough “savvy” in Australia, the UK from very young vineyards opportunistically distinctive styles of sauvignon blanc thatand the US, many wine lovers are surprised planted too recently by those with little real expert tasters can often identify withoutto learn that sauvignon blanc was not interest in wine.” difficulty. Pernod Ricard NZ (owner of theplanted in the region until 1975. The first Brancott Estate brand) views Rapaura,wine - Montana Marlborough Sauvignon But those who slam Marlborough sauvignon on the north side of the Wairau Valley, asBlanc - flowed in 1979. blanc as the “McDonald’s of wine” - producing sauvignon blanc with “tropical” competing winery owners with a case of fruit flavours; Brancott, on the south side, as yielding more “herbaceous” characters;Several producers have also released sparkling and the Awatere Valley wines as possessingand low alcohol models, but will these newer styles “a distinctive flavour our winemakersof sauvignon blanc prove to be fads? describe as ‘tomato stalk’.” In the mid 1980s, the world started sour grapes - have obviously never tasted Those who want to probe even furtherto take notice. “The great thing about O:TU Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and into the subject can explore a multitudeMarlborough,” UK wine writer Oz Clarke Cloudy Bay Te Koko side-by-side. The first of single-vineyard sauvignon blancs. Villaenthused 20 years ago, “is that it produced is tangy and herbaceous; the second fleshy, Maria, for instance, currently has threefor the first time since the War, maybe this complex, rounded and rich. In terms of style, wines in its Single Vineyard range, andcentury, a flavour which no-one’s ever they are worlds apart. Saint Clair has released wines from 10found before… The sauvignon is absolutely, different sites in its Pioneer Block range.stabbingly strong fruit: it’s a mixture of The herbaceous, fresh-cut grass aromasapricots and asparagus and grassiness and flavours so intense in Marlborough Oak can add further variations. Mostwhich is terribly exciting because the sauvignon blanc are derived from Marlborough sauvignon blancs are handledsauvignon grape in Europe, where they’ve compounds called methoxypyrazines. A entirely in stainless steel tanks, placing theirbeen growing it for donkey’s years, has key reason Marlborough’s sauvignon blancs accent squarely on their fresh, direct fruitgot drier and drier, and leaner and leaner. are so intensely herbaceous is simply that, flavours. But many of the top wines, althoughSuddenly, out comes Marlborough with this compared to grapes at the same level of handled principally in tanks, are 5 to 15flavour which is so strong.” ripeness from warm regions, those grown per cent barrel-fermented, adding a touch in cooler climates have a higher level of complexity without subduing the wine’s Today, only 145 producers are based in of nettley, grassy (“cat’s pee” is another fresh, punchy, fruit aromas and flavours.Marlborough, but there are well over 600 popular descriptor) methoxypyrazines.sauvignon blanc labels on the market in NZ Several producers have also releasedalone, supplemented by many export-only But how distinctive is Marlborough sparkling and low alcohol models, but willlabels. Some of the biggest-volume brands sauvignon blanc? At a “blind” tasting in these newer styles of sauvignon blanc prove- such as Brancott Estate, Giesen, Kim Blenheim last year, half of the wine industry to be fads? Ambitious growers will be more professionals who attended could not inspired by the example of Brancott Estate Chosen Rows Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($NZ80), a sophisticated, ageworthy wine which tasted alongside top Sancerres and Pouilly-Fumes, sold at similar prices, holds its own easily. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS sally easton MWA SILVER LINING AFTER A WINTER OF DISCONTENTTHERE may yet be a shiny (could it be more than half a decade already, and viticulture, plus on an even smaller scale,silver) lining emerging from the relentless the regions have to wait until June next Scandinavian countries. In Europe, it israin clouds that have been swamping year to be considered by the world predicted that viticulture in existing zonesthe UK in recent months. Rabobank, heritage committee. will almost inevitably require irrigation,an international food and agribusiness something that is currently bannedfinancial services provider, repor ts If they are selected, they would join across many European appellations. Whothe UK may be entering a recovery other French wine regions already listed, knows if parts of Europe will need to plugphase in the wine market. About time, including Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux, in to Aussie expertise on such thingsfrankly. It would coincide with the the Loire valley between Sully-sur- as reduced deficit irrigation (RDI) andflimsiest of green shoots that have been Loire and Chalonnes and Bordeaux partial rootzone drying (PRD)?reported elsewhere in the country’s wider city. Other winemaking regions ineconomy, flooding of considerable areas Europe on the list include Austria’s Irrigation infrastructural issuesof the country notwithstanding. And Wachau region, Germany’s upper middle notwithstanding, climate change strikesit would follow a decade of declining Rhine valley, Hungar y’s Tokaj wine at the very core of current style andalcohol consumption in the UK, during region, Portugal’s Oporto (OK, not a typicity. The most highly-regarded wineswhich time consumption has fallen by wine region), and the upper Douro of Europe typically come from areas,16 per cent. (which is!), and Switzerland’s Lavaux which are at the northernmost (coolest) vineyard terraces. limit of ripening for the particular grape However, despite such predictions, varieties planted in the region. Thusthere is no let-up in the escalating tax More protection than UNESCO can Bordeaux is built on the cabernetregime or retail consolidation, themes offer may be needed if climate change sauvignon-merlot blend. There’s not continues on its predicted track. A much cabernet sauvignon or merlot found further north because it gets tooThere is huge investment going into sparkling wine cool to ripen them effectively. Burgundyproduction, which now accounts for around 60 per is predicated on pinot noir. There’scent of total UK production. not much pinot noir (apart from for sparkling production, where it doesn’tthat loosely link the UK and Australia. recent report by the National Academy really get ripe enough to make stillAlong with Ireland, the UK has the of Sciences projected a decline in wine) further north than Burgundy. If thehighest tax regime in the European existing wine-producing regions of up predictions are anywhere near accurate,Union, with more per bottle going to the to nearly three-quarters by 2050, based it is going to be too hot to grow theseTreasury than in the traditionally high-tax on the highest predictions, due largely grapes in their current locations. Themonopolies of Scandinavia. In the UK £2 to increasing temperatures. In the main report talks of “managed retreat”, usingper bottle goes to the treasury. VAT of 20 winegrowing regions, average growing different varieties. Bordeaux grenache/per cent needs to be added on top. So season temperatures have already shiraz/mourvèdre (GSM) blend anyone?for a £5 bottle of wine, £3 ($A5.50) goes increased by 1.28C over the past 50 Tuscan primitivo?straight in tax. Does the UK also compete years. In Europe, regions such aswith Australia in the wine tax stakes? Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley and Tuscany In effect, vineyard areas in Europe are all under notable threat. Further suitable for growing grapes are On to arguably cheerier topics and, after temperature increases of between 1 and predicted to shift north by abouthaving been dropped from nomination last 2C are forecast by 2050. 10-degrees latitude. What is now theyear, France is reinvesting in its attempts swathe of land between southern Spainto get the vineyards of Burgundy and the Potential conflicts with land conservation and southern Italy to Bordeaux andwhole of Champagne - vineyards, cellars were also cited as viticulture is already northern Italy may become the Loireand Champagne houses - registered moving to higher altitudes, for example Valley and Hungary to middle England,on the UNESCO world heritage list. Spanish producer Torres in the Pyrenees Denmark, the Netherlands and southernIt’s a long old haul though, Burgundy and to higher latitudes, for example the Sweden. And without the centuries ofhas been working towards this aim for sudden and dramatic increase in UK viticultural evolution that have enabled the traditional regions to build their class and their reputation.18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

It’s not doom and gloom for all. The Yorke Peninsula’sopportunities are real for nascent, award winningnortherly latitudes. The UK is prime vineyardcase in point. For long the country hadmaintained a “hobby” industr y, noteven considered worthy of being calleda cottage industry. Thirty years agothere were about 400ha planted in thecountry. Data from 2012 show there arenearly 1500 ha, with a third of that totalbeing planted in the previous six years.There is huge investment going intosparkling wine production, which nowaccounts for around 60 per cent of totalUK production. Sparkling productionovertook still production in 2010. Theclassic traditional method (Champagne)grape varieties of chardonnay, pinot noirand pinot meunier account for nearly 45per cent of all vineyard plantings. In 2004those same three varieties accounted forjust over 10 per cent vineyard plantings. Winning a string of competition awardsover recent years has done the reputationof English sparkling wine no harm atall. The product is typically positionedhead-to-head with champagne, sittingjust below the price of the big-brandedChampagne houses. The category will dowell to carve out a niche for itself at thislevel, especially considering volumesavailable are forecast to increase from 1million to 5 million bottles by 2018. That’sa lot of extra volume to sell for a nascentindustry. Supply is going to catch upwith, and quite likely exceed, demandsomewhere along the line to 2018, unlessthe most robust of marketing and exportplans are put into place. What about this as a final climate changethought with which to conjure: Australia,being ensconced in the SouthernOcean, is forecast to have less dramatictemperature increases than Europe. Inall this talk of climate change and itseffects on global viticulture, how aboutAustralia becoming a country with one ofthe longest viticultural heritages?

winetutor WORDS clive hartley Additives play their partCONCERN over additives and possible a gentle treatment. Egg whites are one of (parmesan and blue cheese especially),allergens in wine is one reason why we the most ancient protein fining materials salami and some fish products.have witnessed the rise of “natural” or and can be used fresh or powdered. Usedorganic wines. All Australian wines must with red wines, up to five whites are poured Alcohol itself can cause an allergiccarry a declaration if they contain traces into a barrique size cask of 225 litres, and reaction. People who suffer from rosacea, aof any allergenic substances. Australia the surplus eggs yolk explains why we reddening of the face, are at an increasedwas the first country to adopt allergen have so many rich desserts and pastry risk. Alcohol causes the blood vessels tolabelling for foods in 2002. The right of items in France. open up and allows more blood to flowthe public to know what is in their food through them which results in a reddeningor drink is paramount, but considering Fish was on the allergen list until it was of the skin. Some people simply cannotwe have such a highly technologically taken off in 2009. This refers to the use of process too much alcohol and the amountdeveloped industry we shouldn’t be overly isinglass used in the fining process to clarify you can consume usually decreases asconcerned. But still, it can be a bit off the wine and remove unwanted phenolics you get older. If you do get a reaction thenputting to read that your favourite tipple and tannins. It is made from the swim bladder try drinking lower alcohol wines such ashas trace elements of milk, nuts, egg or of certain fish, traditionally the sturgeon. off-dry style riesling or lighter, cool-climatefish products in them. Finally, what is this nut business about? By style reds. Start choosing your wines by law we are able to add tannins derived not looking at the percentages on the label. Additives to wine are there for a reason only from grapes or oak, as is commonly the Increasingly winemakers are trying toand have a role to play in making a case, but chestnuts. reduce their levels and I’m seeing a trickleAlmost all wines contain sulphites, it actually occurs naturally during thefermentation process.sound and trustworthy bottle of wine. An allergic reaction could possibly of 12.5 per cent reds coming through.Preservatives are listed in a number occur from the presence of histamine The additive sulphur dioxide is the mostof disguises such as codes to offset and tyramine in wine. These two biogenicthe alarm that might be caused by amines are common in red wines and common and traditional preservative andtheir chemical name. Unfortunately according to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford used throughout the wine making process.the additives give rise to potential Companion to Wine they are thought It is principally an antioxidant and protectsallergens. The ones that have been to be produced during the malolactic the wine from bacteria spoilage which canidentified in wine, and requiring labelling, fermentation process. So, oak matured red turn the wine to vinegar. But it can causeare: sulphites, casein and potassium wines can be said to have higher levels of an allergic reaction in some drinkers,caseinate, egg whites, milk, evaporated histamines. In both an Austrian (2010) and especially those prone to asthma. Themilk and nuts. US study (1998), pinot noir was found to code for sulphur dioxide is 220 and terms have higher levels of histamines than other such as “contains sulphites” are also used. Allergic reactions can be caused by a red varieties. And in the Austrian study they White wines are more delicate and neednumber of chemical compounds found in discovered the higher the quality of wine protection from oxidation more than redwine. The more common are derived from the higher levels of histamines, presumably wines so whites are given a higher dose ofproteins. Traces of these proteins can due to the increase in new oak being SO2 than reds. By law Australian table winebe from the remnants of yeast or fining used in its maturation. A mild reaction to can contain up to 250mg/l of SO2, whileagents used to clarify and stabilise the histamine can cause nasal congestion or sweet wines such as botrytis semillon,wine. Casein is milk protein which can be itchy, flushed skin. But wine has less amine have even higher levels.added to white wine, especially if it needs levels than a lot of other foods. Highera colour correction or bitterness removed. levels are found in strawberries, cheese Almost all wines contain sulphites,Skimmed milk is similarly used and is more it actually occurs naturally during the fermentation process. Some producers will20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

Mt Monster 2012 Shiraz Trophy Best Value Top 100Trophy for Best ValueTop 100Blue Gold 2014 Sydney International Wine Competition Top 100say they keep their additions to a minimum. Blue GoldTrophy for Best ValueBlue GoldMudgee winemaker and recent winner of 2014 Sydney International Wine Competitionthe Legends of the Vine, David Lowe, knowsall about sulphites. A mild asthma sufferer, Trophy for Best Value Top 100 Blue Gold2014 Sydney International Wine Competitionhe wanted to develop a preservative-free 2014 Sydney International Wine Competitionwine, however his old university lecturerstold him it couldn’t be done. Today one of hismost successful wines is his PreservativeFree Merlot. Making this wine has itschallenges. After it has undergone a quickmalolactic fermentation he keeps the winecool at 5C which is uncommon for a red.The wine needs careful filtering down to0.45 micron so no bugs can attack thewine when in bottle. Lowe continues: “Theadditional challenge is setting the fill heighton the bottle since the greater the ullage themore air, faster ageing and less freshness;yet if it is filled too full and is stored in awarm climate it will expand and spill out ofthe capsule.”I asked him why he picks his grapesat lower sugar levels to give less alcoholwhen making a preservative-free redwine. “It’s a pH argument, as early harvestmeans the wine is more reductive and lessoxidative chemically, therefore it is moreresistant to change. If you have higheralcohol it gives more microbial stability, butthe pH is higher so more bad bugs grow inthe wine medium.” Which sounds like thelesser of two evils to me and the low pHwins out. In other words, the higher acidlevel (low pH) in the wine is protecting thewine and doing the job of the sulphur. Thisis what happens in the cooler climates ofEurope where both red and white wineshave more acidity and less alcohol.Other preservatives include 224 the codefor potassium metabisulphite (PMS) whichis used as a solution to hinder spoilage and Family Owned: Estate-Grown;plays a similar role to sulphur dioxide. The Handcrafted Wines; Padthaway, South Australiacode 200 is scorbic acid, a yeast inhibitorand used with wines that may be prone to www.mtmonster.com.auyeast spoilage. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGSTRIKING IT LUCKY IN CANADA’S OKANAGAN VALLEYSOME places seem to have won the first certified biodynamic winery in British the August fruit and vegetable harvest, thegeographic lottery. Gold prospectors Columbia. Wines are “clarified” inside a melons and tomatoes picked out of handdescended on Canada’s Okanagan Valley giant pyramid said to “amplify the spirit of remind you of how our products used toin the late 1850s and homesteaders planted the wine”. Who knows but the 2012 Tiferet taste before the era of pre-packaging andthe first orchards in what was to become red costing a cool $100 certainly lives up to artificial ripening. Covert Farms, also nearBritish Columbia’s most important fruit- the glamorous setting of the Sunset Organic Oliver, is a 100 per cent certified organicgrowing region later in the century. But it Bistro where chef Jesse Croy cooks up fruit and vegetable farm which ships melons,wasn’t until the 1980s that the Big Valley modern Canadian dishes like prawn and strawberries and tomatoes all over westernbroke through as a premium wine region, chorizo fettucine and Yarrow Meadows Canada. The owners, Gene and Kellyfollowing an earlier incarnation as cheap duck confit. Covert, allow visitors to pick their own andplonk country. Today more than 125 wineries joke that if you can pick 250 kilos of tomatoesdot a lush landscape that’s also blessed with Tinhorn Creek Vineyards near Oliver was they will give you a watermelon for free.sparkling lakes, rolling hills and surprisingly named after a panhandler’s stream whichhot summers for the Great Lone Land. criss-crosses the property. Dead-centre of Many old timers in the Okanagan Valley the area known as the Golden Mile because are afraid that the orchards and row crops I first visited the Okanagan in early could become a memory as more andspring when the trees that account for 98 There’s also a more land is turned over to more profitableper cent of BC’s apple crop were looking grape-growing. Troy and Sara Harker arekinda bare. It’s far better to plan a visit for demonstration vineyard fifth-generation fruit growers and have builtearly summer when the sunshine is almost a thriving business making fruit wines atguaranteed for an al fresco lunch at the where the guide allows Harker’s Organics. The sparkling appleTerrace Restaurant at Mission Hill Family wines have attracted the biggest fanEstate Winery. One of the oldest and largest you to pick a grape and following. But the mulberry-pear dessertwineries in the 200km-long valley, Antony wine aged in French oak is a global one-offVon Mandl, a Vancouver wine merchant then offers a sip of the and surprisingly “meaty” for a fruit wine.bought the property in the early ’80s andbuilt the gorgeous Italianate-cum-modernist same varietal. The Harkers aren’t the only family carvingcomplex overlooking Okanagan Lake. Just out a niche. Thirteen years ago, Vancouverthe view to do justice to Mission Hill’s Oculus of its numerous fruit farms and vineyards, couple Kim Stansfield and John Gordonwine, a Bordeaux-style blend that is rated as Tinhorn Creek offers self-guided tours and decided on a tree change after visitingthe area’s premium bottling. claims that it was the first premium winery in the Napa Valley and planted a vineyard British Columbia to use Stelvin screw caps in Summerland at Valentine Farm. Instead If the wines can be sublime, so is the scenic for all of its wines. of making wine, the enterprising duo setdrive. Stretching from West Kelowna, the up a gourmet vinegar business calledOkanagan’s wine-growing territory extends Gewurztraminer, pinot gris, pinot noir and The Vinegar Works. In addition to showingto the northern part of the Sonoran Desert, muscat plantings are the most plentiful visitors how to use vinegar in desserts andwhere locals warn you to be on the lookout on the surrounding hillsides but by far the cocktails, like Maggie Beer in the Barossa,for rattlesnakes and scorpions. Route 97 biggest draw is the Miradoro restaurant, they do a roaring trade in verjus. You cantakes you past a series of glistening lakes a huge glass capsule cantilevered over stay on the property, too, in the private suite.chock-full of fish and anglers, zig-zagging the South Okanagan Valley. The menuuphill through twee-sounding settlements follows a modern country theme with a Artisanal cheeses anyone? You’ll have tosuch as Peachland and Summerland difference, with listings such as Wild Boar drive to the east side of Okanagan Lake topeopled by inhabitants so friendly you’ll feel Bacon Carbonara and Albacore Tuna and Penticton. Transplanted Brit Gavin Miller oflike a long-lost relative. Sweetbreads. Currently celebrating its 20th Upper Bench Estate Winery makes first- anniversary, the Tinhorn label to pack in rate pinot noirs and merlots tailor-made for Before starting out, drop by at Summerhill your suitcase is the Oldfield Series Pinot his wife Shana’s cheeses. The Nova ScotiaPyramid Winery in Kelowna. You can’t miss Noir. There’s also a demonstration vineyard native converted a grape-pressing pad tothe entrance overshadowed by a huge where the guide allows you to pick a grape cheese-making and has never looked back.sculpture of a wine bottle. Founded in 1987 and then offers a sip of the same varietal. You might do so wistfully after sampling herby Stephen Cipes, a New York real estate brine-washed Okanagan Sun soft-ripeneddeveloper, Summerhill boasts that it was the If you visit the Okanagan at the height of cheese or King Cole blue.22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014



winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN SYDNEY, CANBERRA AND NORTH-EAST VICTORIATHE WORLD’S LEADING wine and food Pichon-Longueville-Lalande, which my stay in Victoria and South Australia”.writer of the day, 86-years-old Frenchman “appeared to be quite at home although a He was to have an “easy” itinerary in theAndre Simon, had little time to relax on his long way from its native hearth”, and eight Corowa and Rutherglen districts: therewhirlwind first and only visit to Australia. Australian reds and whites, mainly from New were certainly more rest periods. First visitOver the first few days of 1964 he attended South Wales. Most remarkable of all was was to All Saints at Wahgunyah, where themany functions where, as he says, people a 1947 Chateau Guiraud which Cobden two men were greeted with a glass of the“came to look at me”. One of these was had spotted standing up on the top shelf ubiquitous Seppelt’s Great Western Brut.unusual in that rather than the older vintages of a bar in New Guinea. “How the wine had George Sutherland Smith Sr showed anor “Private Bins” which were usually managed to stand up to standing up and to appreciative Simon his pride and joy, thepresented for his appraisal, he was shown the tropical heat can never be explained: a forest of oak foudres (large casks) of thea selection of medium-priced wines which miracle wine,” marvelled Simon. family’s ancestral winery. The next day theywere readily available in retail licensed visited two wineries, Lindemans at Corowapremises. Members of the Wine and Brandy A quick trip to Brisbane saw Simon and Seppelt’s at Rutherglen. At night theyProducers of New South Wales presented impressed with Queensland mud crabs, dined and stayed at the show-place,16 whites and 16 reds. Unfortunately we “a great delicacy” which was happily Bruck House at Wangaratta, designedare told neither the identity of the wines nor partnered with a 1962 Chateau Tahbilk by architect Robin Boyd. The SwissSimon’s opinion of them. The next day he Marsanne at a lunch at the United Service cook “provided a meal of great simplicitywas back to tasting the usual old and rare Club. Simon also enjoyed Bowen mangoes and great gastronomic excellence -wines, when Sydney Bistro owner and one accompanied by Seppelt’s Great Western consomme, Murray Cod meuniere, roastof the guests, Johnny Walker, poured a Brut. Back in Sydney for two days, Simon spring chicken, with vegetables fresh fromselection of old Hunter whites to accompany attended one lunch and two dinners, at the garden, and a wonderful gateau”. Thethe lobster and John Dory savoured while one of which he made a rare derogatory only wine which Simon mentioned was comment about one of the wines, a 1952Sutherland Smith Sr showed an appreciative Simon his pride and joy, the forest ofoak foudres (large casks) of the family’s ancestral winery.sitting by the sea at the famous Ozone Cafe, Chateau Palmer, which he found to be “a 1955 Dry Monopole. The next morning,later Doyles Restaurant, at Watson’s Bay. tired and disappointing wine”. Then came at what was then called John Brown &There were three 1944 white wines, among a rushed trip to Canberra, with an evening Sons, at Milawa, Simon and Gibson tastedthem a Picpoul, and a Mount Pleasant dinner with the Prime Minister, Sir Robert a number of experimental wines. TheyAucerot Riesling, both “too old, of course, Menzies. Simon apparently recorded no included a blend of white hermitage (ugnibut not oxidized”. A 1962 Douglas Elliott details of either the wine or the food on blanc) and grenache, and of riesling andOakvale “Hunter River Riesling”, almost that occasion, but the following evening white hermitage, and a “very pleasantcertainly a semillon, was, noted Simon, “a at a dinner cooked by the members of rosé wine made exclusively from grenachemuch more friendly wine”. the Canberra Wine and Food Society, grapes”. But what most impressed Simon abalone served with an oyster sauce met were two whites, “light and crisp”, made Among the plethora of wine and food with his approval - but he commented on from “true riesling grapes” from the 1962occasions heaped upon Simon in his nothing else. and 1963 vintages. A range of reds, madeseveral days in Sydney some stand out. from shiraz, blends of shiraz and cabernet,One such event was a dinner hosted by The next day the indefatigable Simon flew and shiraz, cabernet and mondeuse, wereSydney bon vivant Richard Cobden, and from Canberra to Albury, where he must so young that Simon found it impossible tohis wife who did both the cooking and the have been pleased to meet his old friend, have any opinion on how time would dealwaiting. The wines included magnums of Victor Gibson. As Simon said, “he was to with them.1953 Charles Heidsieck, a 1952 Chateau be my chauffeur and my providence during24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

F ranceWINE TOUR OFTHE 2014WINESTATE MAGAZINE with Peter Simic, Editor/Publisher of WINESTATE MAGAZINE and CHAMPION TRAVEL Fifteen wonderful days exploring the best wine regions of France with Peter Simic. Outstanding experiences – visits to Paris, Champagne, Burgundy, Rhone Valley, Provence, Languedoc, Cahors and Bordeaux.This is our fifth visit to France and thirteenth international tour overall. We have refined the tours into an outstanding combination of the best of wine, food and historical visits, with some free time to explore the old towns and regions we visit.

Tour ItineraryTOUR LEADERSHIP BY Start Saturday 13 September 2014 DeparturePeter Simic Tour members depart Australian capital cities and travel on to Paris. Earlier departure and accommodation is also available. Call for details.Peter Simic, your tour guide, is an ideal host forthis trip. With a background in publishing and wine Day 1 Sunday 14 September 2014 Pariseducation over 30 years, his wine knowledgeis vast. In addition to being the founding editor/ Hotel West Endpublisher of Winestate, Peter was formerly thefounding publisher of Wine & Spirit (US), manager After arrival early morning at Paris airport the tour group will beof the SA Wine Information Bureau, and wine met and transferred by private coach to our four star hotel locatededucator with SA Regency College. He is also a in the centre of Paris. An optional tour of the city will be provided.regular wine commentator in newspapers and on Following this the tour group will come together for welcomingradio and television. Peter recently led a number of drinks hosted by Peter Simic.highly successful wine tours: the Winestate toursto France in 1999, 2003, 2006, 2007 and 2011, Day 2 Monday 15 September 2014 Reimsthe QE2 Winestate cruise in 2001, the Winestatetours to Italy in 2002, 2005, 2009 and 2010, and Grand Hotel Templiersthe Winestate tours to Spain 2000, 2004 and 2009. After breakfast the group will travel on to the famous ChampagneVERY SPECIAL EXPERIENCES region.Here we travel to Epernay and Ay for a full day of vineyard visits. We will drive through the vines along the picturesque “ChampagneFollowing great success of previous wine tours to Route” and visit two of the region’s main producers. We will meet theFrance, Italy and Spain, Peter Simic and the staff at wine makers and sample a range of the best crus. Local restaurantsWinestate Magazine have arranged for a series of will be recommended for dinner.very special visits in the historic and impressive finewine areas of France. We will visit some vineyards Day 3 Tuesday 16 September 2014 Reimsthat are rarely open to the public and samplespecial vintages and meet people responsible for Another great day in the Champagne region south of Reims. Notheir skilful production. It will be a unique time to one makes Champagne like the Champenoise and we indulgemeet the characters and expand our knowledge in ourselves in this luxury product with visits to some of the finestmost enjoyable and pleasant surroundings. wineries. The afternoon will be free for further exploration.COMFORTABLE TOUR HOTELS Day 4 Wednesday 17 September 2014 DijonWe have carefully selected well-located quality four Holiday Innstar hotels. All the hotels have clean, comfortablerooms with private facilities. Some of the hotels After breakfast the tour group will travel south to Dijon for two nights,will provide an enjoyable experience of “European the regional food capitol of the Burgundy wine region, famous forstyle”, accommodation rather than the uniformity of mustard and other culinary delights. It sits at the north of the regionstandardized modern hotels. comprising the Cote de Nuits in the north and Cote du Rhone in the south, with the town of Beaune in the middle. Burgundy produces the ethereal silky cool climate elegant wines of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes in regions such as Romanee Conti, Chambertin, Vouget and Chassagne Montrachet. The exploration will commence after lunch with a vineyard and cellar visit combined with a structured tasting led by Peter Simic. Day 5 Thursday 18 September 2014 Dijon Morning will see another prestige winery for a visit and tasting. Following a free afternoon of wine bar exploration in this fabulous town, or a quiet rest, we have our first Michelin starred Winestate Celebration Dinner where we indulge in superb wine and food from the region.

Day 6 Friday 19 September 2014 Lyon Day 11 Wednesday 24 September 2014 Bordeaux Hotel Warwick Reine Astrid Hotel de SezeWe cannot leave Burgundy without a visit to Beaune so mid After an early breakfast we journey to what many consider to bemorning we stop for coffee/ brunch at leisure before heading the jewel in the crown of French wine regions, Bordeaux. “Firston to Lyon for our Rhone Valley experience. But beforehand Growth” names like Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Latour,we have the excitement of visiting a prominent Beaujolais Chateau Haut Brion, Chateau Lafite and Chateau Margaux makeproducer to taste the Gamay Beaujolais variety at its source. wine lovers drool. But don’t dismiss the “lesser” Growths as in someLyon is the second biggest city in France with history going years these even surpass the big names. Here we have five nightsback to Roman times. Restaurants will be recommended for in a four star hotel where we can return each night and enjoy ourfurther enjoyment. daily experiences. On the way we will travel through the Graves and Sauternes regions where a visit is in order.Day 7 Saturday 20 September 2014 LyonA full day in the Rhone valley. Here we have the familiar shiraz Day 12 Thursday 25 September 2014 Bordeaux(syrah) as the main variety that we know so well in Australia.Famous names include Guigal, Chapoutier and Paul Jaboulet. A full day of winery visits where we travel north of Bordeaux to theToday we will visit some of the finest producers of this great famous “Left Bank” regions of Margaux and St Julien. Here Cabernetvariety from Cote Rotie and Hermitage. sauvignon is king and a yardstick for similar wines around the world. Day 13 Friday 26 September 2014 BordeauxDay 8 Sunday 21 September 2014 Marseille Our second day in the “Left bank” where we travel further north to visit the iconic regions of Pauilliac and Ste Estephe. Our Grand Hotel Beauvau Vieux Port grateful thanks to Jacques Lurton and the legendary Lurton Clan of brothers and sisters www.Lurton.com for arranging someTravelling south from Lyon we have the distinctive Chateau Neuf amazing visits to some of Bordeaux’s finest.du Pape region of the Southern Rhone where Grenache mixeswith Syrah to create this distinctive blend. On the way to the Day 14 Saturday 27 September 2014 Bordeauxplayground of Marseille we take advantage of visiting some finewineries that present this important blend. Restaurants and wine Today is the “Right Bank’s” turn where St Emillion and Pomerolbars will be suggested for an evening at leisure. shine with Merlot being the dominant partner. Peter Simic will introduce us to some of the most important producers andDay 9 Monday 22 September 2014 Marseille guide us through structured tasting sessions and time will be allowed for a leisurely lunch in the historic town of St Emillion.A leisurely free day for all to enjoy the seaside cafes and barsbefore an important Michelin starred Winestate Celebration Dinnershowcasing the best wines from the regions we have visited. Day 15 Sunday 28 September 2014 BordeauxDay 10 Tuesday 23 September 2014 Toulouse The final day in Bordeaux and indeed the last day of the tour. It needs a Hotel Opera special send off so we will have a day at leisure but also a very special Winestate Celebration Lunch where some superb wines and food willNext we are off to Toulouse for a two night stay with a side be produced by Peter Simic to commemorate the tour. It will also givejourney to the region of Cahors for the first time, where Malbec tour participants time to pack for the trip home tomorrow and mayberules, following some great reports from our fellow wine scribes. pack in a wine bar or restaurant visit that evening.But first we stop in the medieval town of Carcassonne for lunchwhere Disney meets history. A winery visit in Languedoc will Day 16 Monday 29 September 2014 Departurealso be included before we arrive in Toulouse where some winebar exploration will offer its own rewards. After breakfast the tour group will travel to Bordeaux airport for a flight to Paris to connect with International flights to Australia. Day 17 Tuesday 30 September 2014 In Transit Day 18 Wednesday 1 October 2014 Australia Early morning arrival in Australia.

F r ceWINE TOUR OFTHE 2014 WINESTATE MAGAZINEThe price for the fifteen-day tour is $ 9,729International and general travel taxes and fuel surcharges are additional. At 13/2/14 they were approximately $895 per person.INCLUDED IN THE PRICE NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE• Economy-class air travel from Australia to France and return. Please call for • Passport and visa fees. prices for departure from Perth. Passengers will be able to travel early or extend • International airport and general travel their stay in France. taxes.• Accommodation in four star hotels with private facilities. Hotel taxes and service • Travel insurance. charges. • Sightseeing and general expenses not• A full breakfast daily and three special Winestate Celebration lunches or dinners. specified in the itinerary.• Entrance, tasting fees and special services at vineyards in each of the regions • Items of a personal nature. • Additional travel arrangements - these will visited. Sightseeing and general entry fees as detailed in the itinerary.• Tour leadership by Peter Simic, Editor/Publisher of Winestate Magazine. be quoted separately.• Tour management by Champion Travel with an experienced staff member travelling with the group.GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOOKING CONDITIONS HOW TO BOOKTour Operator. Champion Travel Pty Ltd (ABN 60 264 035 076) is the tour operator working with Bookings can be made by sending fullWinestate Publishing Pty Ltd. names and addresses of intending tour members along with a deposit of $500.00Tour Prices. The tour prices are based on airfare, general transport, accommodation and other costs (NON-REFUNDABLE) per person to:at foreign exchange rates at 01 Feb 2014. Champion Travel reserves the right to alter the tour price ormodify the tour if any of these factors change CHAMPION TRAVEL 110 HUTT STREETDeposits and Payments. A non-refundable deposit of $ 500.00 per person is required at the time of ADELAIDE SA 5000booking. Full payment will be required 60 days before departure. Further information and booking formsCancellations. Cancellation advised more than 60 days from the date of departure from Australia will can be obtained by contacting Championincur a cancellation fee of the $500.00 per person deposit. Cancellations advised 60 days or less from Travel Pty Ltd:the date of departure from Australia will result in the loss of all monies paid. Tel: (08) 8239 0999Minimum Tour Numbers. The tour has been priced on the basis of a minimum number of passengers Toll free: 1300 300 516having booked on the tour 60 days prior to departure. Champion Travel reserves the right to cancel the Email: [email protected] if insufficient passengers have booked by 60 days prior to departure, giving a full refund of all moniespaid, or offering arrangements to proceed with the tour at a modified price.The Tour cost is based on 32 About CHAMPION TRAVELpaying passengers travelling, the tour price will increase if less than 32 passengers travel accordingly. Champion Travel Pty Ltd is a well- established travel company that has beenRefunds. The tour is based on arrangements that do not allow for any refunds in respect of sightseeing, operating in Adelaide for 20 years. It isaccommodation, meals, airfare or other services not utilized after the tour has commenced. fully licensed fully accredited with IATA. It directly represents the major airlinesTravel Documents. All passengers will need to be in possession of a valid passport. Passengers of the world and all major domestic andholding other than an Australian passport should check requirements with Champion Travel. international tour operators. ChampionBaggage. Economy class passengers qualify for a 23kg airline baggage allowance. Travel is a full member of the Australian Federation of Travel Agents – AFTA.Changes to the Tour Itinerary. Champion Travel reserves the right to make changes to the touritinerary to fit in with operational requirements. Any change to the itinerary will be replaced with similararrangements with an equal or greater value.Responsibility. Champion Travel Pty Ltd (ABN 60 264 035 076 is the tour organizer. Champion Travelacts only as agent for passengers in making arrangements with carriers, hoteliers and others for the tour.As a result, we cannot accept liability for any act or omission whatsoever, whether negligent or otherwiseof those carriers, hoteliers or other persons providing services in connection with the tour over whom wehave no direct or exclusive control. We do not accept responsibility for any injury, damage, loss, delay,change of schedule, or any other events that are beyond our direct control, such as, but not limited to,war, terrorism, flood, fire. Civil disturbance, acts of God, acts of Government, or any other authorities,accidents to or failure of machinery or equipment, or industrial actions. The passage contract in useby the carriers concerned, when issued, shall constitute the sole contract between the transportationcompanies or firms and the purchasers of these tours. Baggage is at owners risk throughout the tour.Travel Insurance. Is highly recommended, passengers should NOT travel without it – Please contactChampion for further information.

Classic Fine Dining 20 Terrace rd, PerTh Wa 6000 (08) 9221 0885 | WWW.friendsresTauranT.com.au

CWRAOIINNLBOEOUWWRNOSARTTLIHODEN SOUTH AFRICA’S WINE INDUSTRY HAS TURNED FULL CIRCLE, RETURNING TO THE WORLD STAGE WITH A BROAD SPECTRUM OF WINES RANGING FROM VALUE OFFERINGS TO TOP QUALITY WHITES AND REDS.

ELMARI SWART astonishing. The local industry seized upon category likely to achieve stardom is that the years of indulgence following political of white blends. Interestingly, two distinctTHE breathtakingly beautiful Cape reform. Some changes happened quickly styles of blended whites are merging.Winelands are spread over a relatively - in the winemaking process and vineyard In cooler areas, many blends are basedsmall area. About 100,000ha are planted management - causing a fundamental on the Bordeaux-inspired merger ofto wine grape varieties over an area shift in quality. Others - such as site sauvignon and semillon. The second style800km in length. However, the biodiversity selection and matching grape varieties to originates from the warmer Swartlandof winegrowing sites ensures that South specific sites - would take longer. The latter pocket and features a foundation of old-Africa can produce an extensive range caused a second stage in the winemaking vine chenin blanc. A variety of blendingof wines to excite wine lovers the world revolution roughly a decade later. partners includes previously overlookedover. The interplay between ancient soils varieties such as viognier, grenache blanc,and the folding landscape offers a myriad Today, the South African wine industry roussanne, and marsanne.of mountain slopes, hills and valley floors produces in excess of 1000 million litresfor specific site selection. Coupled to this of wine (2011), about four per cent of the Sauvignon blanc is the most planted whiteare significant climatic variances due world’s production, placing it eighth in variety in Constantia, Durbanville, Elgin,to prevailing winds, mountain shadows, overall volume production. As international Elim and Hemel-en-Aarde valley, reflectingaltitude and rainfall fluctuations. All these markets opened up in the late 1990s, the these cool areas’ suitability for top-qualityfactors combined create some of the most most remarkable index of international sauvignon. Wines show a distinct zestinessintricate terroir sites ever discovered. acceptance of South African wine was the and perform well at both the green (not significant growth in exports, from 25 million unripe, rather green pepper or grass-like) While labelled as a “New World” wine litres in 1993 to well over 400 million litres in and the tropical ends of the spectrum. Inproducer, winemaking is anything but “new” 2011 (up to 45 per cent of local production). fact, an increasing number of producersin the Fairest of Capes. South Africa is A generation of younger winemakers and have two or more sauvignons in the market,unique in knowing the exact date on which viticulturists travelled the global wine world demonstrating the broad aromatic scale.its wine industry began, thanks to a Dutch to gain understanding of the classicspioneer, Jan van Riebeeck, who noted this as well as cutting edge technology. Chardonnay has long since cast off itsin his diary dated February 2, 1659. Despite This wealth of knowledge contributed heavy-oaking cloak and performs wellhis enthusiasm, limited wine knowledge significantly by shifting the industry’s focus in both warmer conditions, notably theproved a constraint for the early pioneers. from “wine is made in the vineyard” (true, rich limestone vein of Robertson, as wellGovernor Simon van der Stel, appointed in but too simplistic), to a comprehensive as cooler climates of Hemel-en-Aarde,1679, accomplished much more. His deep system integrating terroir, viticulture, cellar Elgin and Constantia. Burgundy ratherknowledge of viticulture ensured significant technology and grape processing. In turn, than California remains the ruling modelstrides were made in wine quality, but the shift increased penetration into the fine for chardonnay, although the unoakedhis most significant contribution was the wine market, but also saw the number of category is growing in popularity.tradition of excellence established at his private producers grow from 170 in 1993estate, Constantia. His Vin de Constance, a to more than 500 by 2011. Similar to chardonnay, chenin blancdessert wine, became world famous, fuelling has also matured from its earlierEuropean demand for South African wines. South Africa is refining its identity quantitative heights to a focus on purity through increased specialisation, with and intensity of fruit, and natural good South Africa’s political rebirth in 1994 the emergence of association between acidity. Established vineyards in Paarlcreated remarkable changes in the wine particular areas and grape varieties or and Stellenbosch are consistent qualityindustry and the pace of transformation was wine styles. For many observers, the Opposite page: Simonsberg Vista.

producers, while a new wave is coming since the last decade of the 19th century and is more prevalent as a single varietal thanfrom Swartland. Here, innovative young remains the favoured of the red varieties. It in blended wines. At the same time, Cote-winemakers experiment with old-vine can be found virtually everywhere, to some Rotie style shiraz blends (with viognier) andchenin (often near-forgotten bush vines), extent, due to its reputation for quality. Southern Rhone styles (with mouverdrefermentation on skins and oaking regimes Cabernet is also the cornerstone of red and grenache) are refining its offering.to create awe-inspiring results. blends and Bordeaux-styled blends are Warmer regions like Paarl and Swartland prolific. It maintains diversity however with have emerged as leading shiraz producers. In its march to success, viognier swept shiraz, pinot noir and small volumes ofSouth Africa along from the late 1990s and Italian and Spanish varieties spicing up South Africa’s wine industry has turned awithin a decade of the first single varietal the blends. full circle, returning to the world stage withwine, many dozens came to market. The a broad spectrum of wines ranging fromhighest concentration of viognier vineyards Cabernet franc gained recognition and value offerings to top quality whites andis planted in warmer areas - Worcester status through its use in Bordeaux blends. reds. And, with a determined generation ofand Swartland. Also found in the more Plantings have grown threefold over the last winemakers leading the Rainbow Nation,moderate climate of Stellenbosch, the 15 years, mostly in Stellenbosch, Paarl and South Africa is set to capture the imaginationwines show very ripe harvesting, with Constantia. Single varietal cabernet franc of the global wine world once more.higher alcohol levels and intense perfume. now enchants wine lovers with its structuredIts compatibility with other whites, as well as elegance and rich aromatic profile. Above: Manicured vineyards complement the Southshiraz, certainly aided its leap to popularity. African landscape. The growth in shiraz plantings was Below: Plaisir de Merle Manor. When it comes to the reds, cabernet undoubtedly prompted by its globalsauvignon has been cultivated in Constantia trendiness since the 1990s. Today, shiraz SOUTH AFRICAN tasting starts page 94.



MalbecA PASSION FOR PAYS OFF THE PALMERS MIGHT HAVE STUMBLED INTO GRAPE GROWING, BUT THEY HAVE SINCE HAD A SIGNIFICANT IMPACT ON THE WINE INDUSTRY.

MIKE ZEKULICH THEY NOW PROCESS flagship barrel fermented chardonnay and the highly fancied semillon sauvignon blancWHEN Steve and Helen Palmer launched 400 TONNES OF FRUIT which make up a lively blend of generous,their Margaret River family label 26 years up-front fruit flavours especially suitableago, malbec was not part of their wine A YEAR MAINLY FROM for summer consumption, in addition torange and not even considered. the quality cabernet and shiraz in the reds.Indeed, it took another 16 years - until THEIR OWN 50-HA An important Palmer back-up has been2004 - before it was decided to try the the award-winning striking labels based onunfashionable variety, but only as a blender VINEYARD ON A different coloured vine leaves representingfor wine flexibility. seasons of the year.Now as a Palmer premium varietal, it HILLSIDE LOCATION. The Palmers have also been vineyardis Steve’s personal favourite ahead of developers for investors, resulting inhighly rated cabernet-based wines and after being hit by cyclone Alby and then plantings of 85ha in 37 lots at a primeincreasingly admired shiraz. So for him it grasshoppers, to such an extent that wild Willyabrup property for 22 shareholders,has been especially pleasing for the 2011 oats smothered the struggling survivors. including themselves.Palmer malbec, their first straight vintage of Instead, the couple turned to the In 2010 the couple established a majorthe variety, to be named Winestate’s Gold thoroughbred horse industry, developing $7.5 million winery and hospitality facilityCup annual award winner for best alternate a stud on the Old Coast Rd at Myalup, on Caves Rd at the popular tourist centrered variety in 2013 judged against the best some 80km to the north. But their ties with of Dunsborough where the through trafficfrom Australia and New Zealand. the Willyabrup land were strong and the provides for much greater exposure.The stunning result was reward indeed for survival of the 2ha of Moss Wood cabernet They now process 400 tonnes of fruit a yearthe massive $50 million-plus investment sauvignon cuttings they planted in 1977 mainly from their own 50-ha vineyard on aby the couple in premium wine, food rejuvenated their interest. hillside location on Brockman Rd aboveand tourism facilities in the region and “The vines were on the ground but we found Vasse Felix and neighbouring anotherPerth, strongly backing up the previous as many as we could, stood them up and high-profile Willyabrup producer, Howardimpressive number of international and began again from there,” Steve said. Park. This is south of their original landAustralian awards won by their wines. The Palmers produced their first straight purchase where vines still flourish. TheAnd it all began in such a humble way, with malbec after the lauding of the fruit quality impressive portfolio of wines, besides thewine not even on the couple’s radar. Helen indicated something special. As well, it Palmer label, includes the price-drivenfor example, worked as a TV make-up lady, reminded the couple of Tapas style wines Krackerjack label, which has also featuredwhile Steve was heavily involved in financial seen in Europe. as an award winner.reconstruction of farmers battling the odds, “It was something totally different, Another major $20 million investment onincluding drought, in the WA wheat belt. complementing the unique and sometimes part of the original land purchase is aA shift in 1970 took him to the Margaret strong food flavours,” Steve said. “It is “top-end” boutique resort to tie in withRiver area to help battling butterfat dairy a very approachable across-the-board government plans for in-bound tourismfarmers into alternative rural pursuits. food wine. In the past, I do not think its based on local airport expansion andSo was “pricked” an interest in wine, qualities have been properly recognised cruise ships docking at nearby Busseltonstimulated by what he had seen in the in Margaret River. Yet, like cabernet and with the first stage operating next summerdistrict, especially at Vasse Felix. The shiraz, it does so well on our soil types and the project due for completion in 2016.couple’s first wine related investment (with and in our environment. Now a lot more Perth also features in the Palmer progresswine-loving partner Jock Vincent) was in wineries are taking a serious look at the with a dedicated multi purpose facility on1975 at Caves Rd, Willyabrup, Margaret variety. Generally, the public loves it. It the Swan River at Point Fraser taking inRiver’s wine “purple circle”. The 160-ha seems to shine here as a straight varietal. magnificent views of the city, Kings Parkland purchase was to have been part of We are looking to a lot more success with and the South Perth foreshore area.a major development by leading national the variety, doubling our production.” “It will cater for everyone from children’sproducer Seppelt. But it did not proceed Only a dribble is now used for blending in playground to high-end restaurants andand the big property was subdivided to the winery’s recently released top-of-the- a wine bar for people coming by publicinclude leading producers of the time range Bordeaux blend, Grandee, launched transport, car or boat,” Steve said.such as Pierro, Evans and Tate, part of to honour local pioneers.Sandalford and, of course, Palmers. The extensive wine range also includes the Left: Steve and Helen Palmer with Chef CobyBut it was far from an impressive start. Cockburn, celebrating the malbec winning trophyFor the Palmer vineyard was labeled and their restaurant attaining No. 1 position on Tripabandoned in the Government Gazette Advisor. BEST OF THE WEST tasting starts page 64. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 35

THE DRAGON STIRS A SUMMER TASTING HAS SHOWN HOW FAR CHINESE WINE MAKERS HAVE COME SINCE THEIR FLEDGLING INDUSTRY WAS LAUNCHED IN THE 1990S.36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

DAN TRAUCKI turned out to have a French winemaker/ a variety called beibing hong which is a consultant where as those with a richer, fuller Vitis Amurensis grape rather than the VitisWHILE some wine drinkers are aware that style had an Aussie winemaker/consultant. Vinifera grape varieties that are normallyChina is now the largest red wine consuming used in winemaking. While this wine hadnation in the world, very few know that My favourite wine of the tasting was the He its own unique characters, it reminded meChina actually produces more wine than Lan Qing Xue’s Jia Bei Lan 2011 Cabernet somewhat of a liqueur muscat and was verywhat Australia does, being ranked as the blend made by a 37-year-old Chinese female pleasant to drink.fifth largest wine producing country and winemaker. Other than being slightly overAustralia is just behind at number six. If extracted to my taste, it was an excellent As part of the tasting we were given athe subject of Chinese wine came up in contemporary style wine, sort of half way presentation on the Chinese wine Industry. Weconversation, many people in the Western between the “austere” French style and the were shown the new areas, which are beingWorld would probably chuckle politely at “opulent” Australian style. Incidentally, their dedicated to grape growing, and how duringthe idea, after all China is only known for 2009 cabernet blend won the Red Bordeaux the current five-year plan, it is envisagedits powerful, toe curling, hair straightening Varietal Over 10 pound International Trophy that there will be a considerable increase inMoutai - rice wine. in the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards - vineyard area to reach around 53,000ha, with the first ever International Gold Medal won a further 30,000ha to be planted during the This was certainly the case back in the by a Chinese wine. next five-year plan. Yes, China’s direction andlate 1990s when my then sales team were future is guided and focused by the Centraltasked by our employer with selling Dragon’s ONE DAY WE Government’s five-year plans.Seal Chinese wine. The retail trade openlylaughed at the guys as they went through the WILL BE DRINKING The investment in China’s wine industrysales pitch, much like the UK and European is spectacular and rather mind blowing.trade did about Australian wine in the 1970s CHINESE WINE AT China today has more wine “chateaux”and early 1980s. Move forward 30 years than the whole of the southern hemisphere,and today Australian wine is the number OUR FAVOURITE with new French-style chateaux poppingone imported wine in the UK, as well as in up regularly. These are multi-million-dollarseveral other countries around the world. LOCAL CHINESE projects that look like the original ones butFurthermore, it is in the top three imported have all the mod-cons. Once the status andwines in almost every market it is in. So who RESTAURANT. image has been built, then the focus will shiftis laughing now? Certainly not the French, to the vineyard and the wine itself. With suchwhose sales are on the decline. One of the significant challenges faced resources it is only a matter of time before by the Chinese wine industry is that due these palaces start producing real quality So has Chinese wine improved since the to the extreme winter cold (-10C to -30C) wine and when they do the whole world will1990s when they were either very watery they have to bury their vines for the winter know about it.or sugary and had little recognisable wine so that the cold does not kill them. In thetaste? In February this year at the Waite spring the vines are dug up and re-tied Incidentally, the tasting was organised socampus, Adelaide University’s Dr Ruyi Li in time for bud burst. This cold weather as to give the Chinese wineries feedbackconducted a unique tasting of 30 Chinese leads to a significantly shorter growing on their wines from Australian winemakers,wines. While one or two of the wines weren’t season than what we are accustomed to in so that they can improve them. While itmuch better than the 1990’s Dragon’s Australia. This restricts them achieving the took Australia around 30-plus years to goSeal many were significantly better, and rich, luscious characters that we obtain from from “zero to hero” in the wine world, Isome were good enough to be served to fully ripe grapes and tends to create harsher strongly suspect that it will only be arounddiscerning wine drinkers. tannins in the ripened grapes - which in 10-15 years or so before Chinese wines turn produces leaner, more acidic wines, are accepted to a large degree around the The white wine bracket consisted of five with harder, more evident tannins. This world and are vying for gold medals andchardonnay which exhibited very cool- is a challenge that the premium Chinese trophies at most, if not all, of the Internationalclimate characteristics of steely acidity, wineries are working on so as to enhance wine shows.however the 2010 and 2011 chardonnay from the global acceptance of their wines.Helan Mountain Wines, while slightly more I believe that it would behove the Australianaustere and less complex than Aussie cool- The last bracket of wine was dessert wine industry to take an interest in, assistclimate chardonnay, were very good wines. wines, some of which were made from and respect the Chinese wine industry indigenous grape varieties. There was during its inevitable rise, unlike the way the Then there were four brackets of red wines one made by Ji Lin Liu He Winery from French “pooh-poohed” the rising Australian- reflecting the Chinese preference for red wine industry half a century ago, to theirwine. An interesting observation across the long-term detriment. Mark my words, it willred wines was that in most instances it was take time, but watch this space becausepossible to work out whether the winemaker/ one day we will be drinking Chinese wineconsultant was French or Australian. All the at our favourite local Chinese restaurant.wines which were leaner and more austere, The dragon hasn’t woken up yet but he iswith some degree of dried fruit characters, certainly stirring. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 37

GenerationTHE LAST OF HIS VALLEY WINEMAKING KNOWLEDGE WAS PRETTY MUCH ACQUIRED AS NEW CHUMS LIKE MCMAHON AND MIDDLETON WORKED FROM VINTAGE TO VINTAGE, LEARNING THE WAYS OF THE LAND.

JENI PORT conditions and was removed from the wines came from the 1970s: a 1979 ground. It was a wine he originally labelled Rhine Riesling trockenbeerenausleseTOWARDS the end of his life, Dr Peter “trockenbeerenauslese” in honour of the and ’79 cabernet sauvignon.McMahon, founder of Seville Estate, was powerfully complex German dessert wine.asked to give up the one thing that had It was a botrytised riesling and few in In the 1970s in the Yarra Valleyhelped sustain him for decades. Australia have delivered a more astonishing winemaking knowledge was pretty much and intense flavour experience. acquired as new chums like McMahon In a way it defined him and he defined it. and Middleton worked from vintage toIt was wine or, to be more precise, it was Dr McMahon started his life in wine as vintage, learning the ways of the land thatthe wines of the Yarra Valley, an area he a doctor working at his father’s general the original pioneers back in the 1860shelped revive in the 1970s. They were the practice in Lilydale, encouraging a friend and ’70s had known but not survived towines that tended to dominate his cellar and fellow Melbourne University medical share when their vineyards fell to farming.in retirement. student, John Middleton, to join him. Musing on his achievements, Dr Grudgingly, on the word of his medico It was Dr Middleton who set in train McMahon said: “We have achieved allwho advised him against mixing alcohol their interest in wine. Through a school we could achieve here, all we wantedwith his medication, Peter McMahon did friend he struck up a friendship with to achieve.” And that was? “Basically toas he was told, largely abstaining for the the legendary Seppelt winemaker Colin produce some outstanding wines frompast four years or so. It gave him no joy. Preece and sourced vines for a vineyard a really unproven site in the Yarra ValleyHe died on October 28, aged 88. at his house. with no lineage, no history.” He was one of the last of the great In a 2006 interview Dr McMahon Seville Estate was sold to Brokenwoodmoder n day Yarra Valley pioneers, remembered those early days. “We both in ’97 (the McMahons finally acceptingoutliving his friend and long time rival, started making wine in plastic bins and the advances first made to them in 1989Dr John Middleton of Mount Mary (who glass jar demijohns. by Brokenwood general manager, Iaindied in 2006), and the enigmatic Dr Bailey Riggs) and then sold again, in 2005, toCarrodus of Yarra Yering (who died in John was much more meticulous about Graham and Margaret Van Der Meulen.2008). Of the three men, Dr McMahon all of this, much more meticulous about Ironically, the McMahons sold up becausewas the least forbidding, the most jovial his chemistry. I was pretty lackadaisical their children weren’t interested in makingand friendly, the people person, the but thought I could give him a good run wine. However, their grandson, Dylan,one who loved a chat, especially in his for his money.” went on to not only become interestedretirement, and more so after the death of but to be winemaker at Seville.his beloved wife, Margaret, in 2011. He And thus a great rivalry of sorts, alwayswould ring me a few times during each on gentlemanly terms, was born. Last year for the winery’s 40thyear, first from his apartment in St Kilda anniversar y, Dylan presented hisand then rest home in Kew, talking wine In 1971 Dr Middleton founded Mount grandfather with a special gift, a 2010but rarely reminiscing. He was always Mary. A year later Dr McMahon founded shiraz made in tribute to Peter McMahon’slooking forward. To that end, the wines of Seville Estate. It is said he chose the “great care and attention” as much as inSeville Estate reflected the man. site on Linwood Rd, an elevated spot wine as in medicine. overlooking the Valley, for its great natural In the late 1970s when shiraz was seen beauty rather than any serious viticultural He called it Dr McMahon. It remains aas a blending tool at best in the Yarra considerations, which is possibly why most fitting legacy.Valley (an idea given the most credence by he also never opened a cellar door toBailey Carrodus), Dr McMahon introduced visitors. He loved the serenity there. It is Just weeks before his passing, Sevillea 100 per cent, riotously peppery example the place where his ashes will be strewn, Estate took out trophies for its 2011off his deep, red soils at Seville. A leading next to those of his wife. reserve (Best Chardonnay of Show,wine commentator at the time called it the Melbourne Wine Show) and 2012estate’s “unsung hero”. Upon his retirement in 1997, Dr reserve chardonnays (Best White Wine of McMahon did pause to look back, mulling Show, Yarra Valley Wine Show) showing Beside a stylish, long-living cabernet over the better vintages of his 22 years at Dylan McMahon’s growing mastery ofsauvignon and, at times, erratic chardonnay, Seville Estate. He named a number of his the grape.was his signature wine, that is, until it lost cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, chardonnayits battle in 1994 against European wasps, and botrytis riesling wines from the His grandfather would have beenhigh production costs and variable vintage ’80s and ’90s and interestingly and pleased. perhaps not surprisingly, none of his pinot noirs. Only a couple of his top Left: Dr. Peter McMahon, founder of Seville Estate. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 39

TABLE WINES EMERGE FROM THE PORT SHADOW FOR CENTURIES PORT HAS DOMINATED IN PORTUGAL, BUT TABLE WINES ARE NOW MAKING AN IMPACT.mtd 40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

ANDRE PRETORIUS stone fruit flavours. Like Niepoort’s other says Seabra: there is an old belief in these white wines, the vineyards that produce parts that a young ruby without greenLUIS SEABRA is a raconteur and a bon Redoma are located on the cooler, higher flavours will also lack ageing potential.viveur, and on this summer’s afternoon he slopes - for these valleys can turn into ais in his element. With a dozen or so visiting cauldron at the height of summer. Attending lunch with Seabra is likeAmerican winemakers gathered around seeing a great play, with him directinga table, he is holding court on a veranda The reds are all powerful, intensely coloured a cast ranging from young greenhornsperched high above a beautiful valley, where wines, but their power does not exclude to veterans with decades’ experience inmy wife and I have joined them for lunch. grace. Batuta 2008 stands out: a complex, blowing their audience away. His dramatic intense wine with dark berry flavours and timing is perfect and he has us eating - or, The small river meandering in lazy loops hints of tobacco. But in need of some years rather, drinking - out of his hand. He nexton the valley floor is the Rio Tedo, a tributary in the bottle to realise its full potential. conjures a wine that must, if that theoryof the Douro - that mighty river whose very about greenness and ageing holds, havename drips with the fortified port wines of Seabra is passionate about the table had a lot of green notes when it was madeOporto, the port city at its Atlantic mouth. wines of the Douro: he is one of a group of 25 years ago: the Niepoort vintage ruby local winemakers championing the revival 1987 is so fresh and lively that it seduces Seabra is the winemaker at Niepoort, of table wines in a loose association of five a few of the visiting Americans - some ofanother name that evokes port (like estates branding itself the “Douro Boys” whom make port-style wines themselvesmany a port house, its antecedents are (which, of course, includes girls). But that - to place the wine somewhere round thenot Portuguese, but northern European - does not make him immune to the seduction turn of the millennium.Dutch, rather than English, in this case). of the fortified wines on which the fame ofBut we are not at Niepoort’s port lodge the Douro is built. Niepoort was established At some stage Seabra works out that myon the Vila Nova de Gaia in Oporto and as a port house by the Dutch van der wife and I are in Portugal in part to celebrateSeabra is not primarily concerned with port: Niepoorts in the 1840s. For the next century- her 40th birthday. He winks at my wife - hewe are at the Quinta de Napoles, about and-a-half it did as many port houses did: is tall and attractive in a Portuguese way,100km upstream on the Douro from Oporto, buying basic wines on contract from local with a sculpted face and wavy dark hairwhere Seabra presides over the making of growers and fortifying and maturing them in which flecks of grey are intruding - andNiepoort’s table wines. into port. Only in the late 1980s did the says that he, too, was born in ’72. His current generation of Niepoorts branch into travels to the wine regions of the world Lunch had started with their entry level table wines when they bought the Quinta in search of a good wine from that yearwines, Redoma Branco and Redoma Tinto, de Napoles. But they had not abandoned have always ended in failure, he laments:before moving on to some increasingly their roots in the fortified stuff and as the it seems nowhere on the planet producedaugust names: Redoma Reserva, Vertente, succession of shared starters and main anything drinkable in ’72. But that’s alright:Batuta and Charme. Further upstream courses - a pork-less local bread sausage, there is a Portuguese saying that a goodalong this river, beyond the Spanish border the simplest of vegetable soups, the vintage for wine is a bad vintage for people,where it still goes by the name of Duero, I tenderest of roast lamb and potatoes - give and a bad year for wine is a good year forhad recently visited the illustrious winery way to some delectable local fruit tarts and people! As if to apologise for the absenceof Vega Sicilia and been shown the new pies, Seabra asks teasingly whether we of anything good from 1972 in his cellar,state-of-the-art facility allowing individual were ready for “real wine”. he goes one better and appears with avinification of 57 individual vineyard parcels magnum - “the perfect size for a couplefor their famous Unico. The first “real wine” he invites us to try is if the wife doesn't drink,” he quips - that the only port he is personally responsible for: starts collective salivation around the lunch But here, the approach is rather more a wine called Bioma made here, at Quinta table. A Colheita is a tawny port (aged inrustic: most of the wines, Seabra explains, de Napoles, rather than downstream at the large cask to allow oxidation, rather thanare field blends comprising up to 20 lodge. Bioma 2009 is a vintage ruby port bottle-aged like a ruby or vintage port)different grape varieties harvested and which is still far too young to enjoy, but itvinified together. But the result is no less betrayed hints of future greatness. A young Left: The 1970 Niepoort Colheita at Quinta depleasing: the (white) Redoma Reserva 2009 vintage ruby must have hints of “greenness”, Napoles.is a beautiful marriage of taut minerals and May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 41

m from a single vintage and the magnum was OUR SOMMELIER WAS Our hotel was another of the Douro Boysnd revealed to be Niepoort’s Colheita 1970. A TRUE ENTHUSIAST quintas: Quinta do Vallado perches above AND FREE FROM THE the town of Peso da Regua on the sidet is Earlier Seabra had referred to some FORMALITY THAT of the deep valley of the River Corgo,le experimentation around the edges with SOMETIMES ATTEND another tributary on the opposite bank ofo the Bioma ’09 and then said that the THE FINER EATING the Douro, a few miles downstream from difficulty with experimenting with port ESTABLISHMENTS OF Quinta da Napoles. is that only future generations will know EUROPE AND THEIR whether you got it right. The Colheita WINE WAITERS. Like Niepoort, Vallado’s roots lay in 1970 bears out his comment: whether the the port trade: it was founded in 1716 generation of 1970 was experimenting and belonged to one of the greatest or stuck to tried and tested ways, our names of the Douro Valley, Dona Antonia generation is the beneficiary. The bottle Adelaide Ferreira, whose descendants has a lot of heavy sediment, but the wine still own the estate. But unlike Niepoort, is crystalline in its clarity, with no hint of the Ferreira family of Vallado had sold out cloudiness. The wine is the colour of fire of the port business entirely (although - an amber jewel in the glass - and has the Ferreira name lives on in port, the aromas of marmalade, burnt Niepoort had family no longer has an interest). In 1993 proved a remarkable revelation: a house they began to replant their vineyards with associated for a-century-and-a-half with single varieties, rather than the customary the fortified wines of Oporto, which still field blends, to make table wines. The proudly produces those singular wines, rejuvenation culminated in a new state-of- but which had established since the 1990s the-art winery and hotel where we tasted a fantastic range of table wines. their range of wines with names redolent of their place: Sousao is not a grape variety I had ever encountered, but the single variety wine by that name proves to be an intensely concentrated wine with hints of oak, spices and powerful dark fruit flavours. Touriga Nacional is normally one of the cornerstones of port-making, but Vallado’s single variety table wine proved to be the more elegant, silky sister of the Sousao, with no hint of port flavours. We chose a bottle of the excellent Reserva Field Blend - combining grapes such as Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional - and jumped on the back of a pick-up for a picnic among the Vallado vines. The winding journey through the vines was an object lesson in the topography of the Douro: we headed ever higher and further away from the river below, crossing contour lines until we reached a clearing high on one of the peaks along the river. Up here it was cool, even on a hot day at the height of summer, and around us the vineyards tumbled away to the great river and into its tributary valleys. For dinner we headed down into Peso da Regua. Castas e Pratos restaurant is a trendy eatery in the least trendy of locations 42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

- it is essentially a station cafe that turns tragedy which echoed in our hotel on very fine Arcadas restaurant. This centralinto a nightclub later in the evening (with the far side of the Mondego: the Quinta region of Portugal is not renowned for itsa one-year-old sleeping in his buggy, we das Lagrimas or “House of Tears” is a wine, so we stayed in the Douro for dinner.escaped before the music started!). Our Relais and Chateaux establishment now, Our sommelier was a true enthusiast andwaiter was in no doubt as to the wine we but it gained its name from an infamous free from the formality that sometimesshould try: Adelaide Tinto, from Quinta do 14th century murder in the lush park attend the finer eating establishments ofVallado. The wine is Vallado’s top cuvee surrounding the 18th century building. Europe and their wine waiters: food is oneand something of a social project. Back of life’s pleasures and wine perfects it.in the 19th century, Dona Antonia had Portugal’s 16th century bard, Luís Vaz deapparently been something of a local Camoes, recorded the tragedy of Pedro He approved of our choice of thephilanthropist and in 2005 “Adelaide” was and Ines in his national epic, Os Lusíadas. Redoma Reserva 2009 as a white - atcreated in her honour: a single vineyard Dom Pedro was heir to his father, King Quinta de Napoles we had only had a tastefield blend from the estate’s oldest plot, Afonso, and the beautiful Ines de Castro of a bottle shared among a dozen - andmade only in the best years. And when it was his Spanish mistress and mother of his then suggested a red I was grateful for.is made, a hundred eminent Portuguese two sons. For fear of her sons’ claim to the Quinta do Crasto is one of the Douro Boys’are invited to purchase two bottles each, Portuguese throne, the old king persuaded quintas we wanted to visit, but it was too farwith the proceeds going to a charity for a gaggle of nobles to kill Ines. They up the valley for the time available. Theirorphaned and abandoned children in committed their black deed in the garden flagship Vinha Maria Teresa was provingnearby Vila Real. We had the Adelaide of the Quinta das Lagrimas, where there an elusive beast: it would not have beenTinto 2008 with our kid stew and she are still two fountains called the Fountains available at the quinta, it was out of stockproved a delightful companion to the of Love and of Tears. at Castas e Pratos, and now Arcadas didintensely flavoured meat and a worthy not have it either.tribute to the great Ferreira ancestor. From The killing was not the end of the affair:the Douro, we headed south to the ancient in a twist of macabre love, Pedro exhumed But, said our sommelier, he had anuniversity city of Coimbra, crowning a hill his mistress when he acceded to the excellent alternative: the 2004 vintageon the banks of the River Mondego. The throne, enrobed her for his coronation and of a wine called Xisto, born of acity had been the scene of a medieval had her crowned queen alongside him. collaboration between Quinta do Crasto and Jean-Michel Cazes of Bordeaux’s Memories of such sad, macabre tales Chateau Lynch-Bages. It was a beautiful were dispelled over dinner in the hotel’s wine that extracted elegance and finesse from local grapes - Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz - usually associated with power. By now it was getting to that port time of the evening. The sommelier looked pained when he confessed that the ports generally available by the glass were not truly great ones. He could offer us Niepoort 2000 by the glass, but it would have to be at a price that would not be “sincere”. Why don't we let him decant the remainder of the bottle for us and send it up to our room? he inquired. Well, you only live once and you certainly only turn 40 once, so we agreed to this surfeit of decadence. Now, the next morning, that one-year-old that slept so angelically as the Niepoort ebbed from the decanter, had all the energy and enthusiasm of a little boy who had slept well and did not savour the finest Portugal could offer. I felt like going to stick my head in the Fountain of Tears. Left: The station on the branch line at Pinhao on the banks of the Douro. Right: The Rio Tedo snakes its way to the Douro below Quinta de Napoles. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 43



WINE HUBCONTINUES TO GROWIN HONG KONGIT WAS PLEASING TO AGAIN SEE THAT THE MAJORITY OF TROPHIESWERE WON BY AUSTRALIAN AND NEW ZEALAND WINESWITH the attention of the wine world consumption and soon we will become the wines judged blind. In 2013 wines fromincreasingly focused on China, Hong Kong world’s eighth largest market!”. According 31 countries were exhibited and 647 wineshas solidified its key role as the entry point to Euromonitor International wine sales in were paired with 10 regional Asian dishes. Itto Asia, both for wine imports for its own not Asia amounted to $US70.7 billion or 5.9 was pleasing to again see that the majorityinconsiderable local market, but also for billion litres in 2012, up 64 per cent and of trophies were won by Australian and Newdistribution into the mainland and beyond. 45 per cent respectively compared to five Zealand wines, including;In its unique location and relationship with years ago. These are phenomenal figuresthe Chinese government, Hong Kong is the by anyone’s terms. Best for Shashimionly place in the world that has an agreement Jacobs Creek Steingarten 2012with the Chinese customs authorities to allow At the 2009 Hong Kong International Wine Best for Kung Pao Chickenwine imports to go into China under CEPA & Spirit Fair, run by the Hong Kong Trade Jacobs Creek Moscato Rose NVenhanced customs facilitation. Development Corporation, 520 exhibitors Best for Chicken Tikka from 34 countries exhibited their wine wares, Jacobs Creek Winemakers Selection Shiraz This all began when in a brilliant strategic twice the number that first exhibited in 2008. Cabernet 2011move, Hong Kong’s Financial Secretary, John In 2013 this jumped to 1005 exhibitors Best for Beef TeppanyakiTsang, convinced the Protectorate authorities from 40 countries and regions around the Barokes Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Bin 121 NVto abolish all wine duties in 2008, with the aim world. To encourage local participation, a Best for Yakatori Chickenof encouraging wine importers to make the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival was held Leconfield Syn Rouge NVregion the prime Asian wine hub. concurrently with the exhibition, attracting Best for Dim Sum 70,000 visitors over three days. With its The Ned Pinot Gris 2013 The strategy worked above all “New York” skyline vista, combined with Best for Braised Abaloneexpectations, with reports indicating that “Hollywood colour” its West Kowloon The King’s Bastard Chardonnay 2012wine imports jumped 80 per cent, year on outlook was truly spectacular! Anthonyyear, to a value of $US373 million. Global Lau, Executive Director of the Hong Kong Commenting on the winners, Debraauction house, Sotheby’s, meanwhile sold Tourism Board that year, applauded the Meiburg MW, director and founder of the$US1.8 million worth of wine in Hong Kong successful evening combining 150 wine competition said: “How exciting to see thesein 2009 compared with $US1.35 million in and food tasting booths, along with musical trophy wins. The results prove that underNew York and $US1.03 million in London. entertainment and finishing with a sound blind-tasting conditions, wines at a diverseThis shows a tectonic shift in interest in and light show. Meanwhile regional districts range of price points will pair well with thesewine to the East. competed to provide an extraordinary range popular dishes, making wine an affordable of street carnivals and wine and food- addition to the Asian dining table.” Speaking at the 2009 Hong Kong themed functions.International Wine & Spirit Fair, Tsang said Peter Simic travelled to the fair as a guest of thethat the next step would be to “uncork the At the first 2009 Cathay Pacific Hong Kong Hong Kong Trade Development Corporation.potential market on the mainland”. Raymond International Wine & Spirit Competition,Yip, Assistant Director of the Hong Kong a new wine event was run in conjunctionTrade Development Corporation (HKDC) with the fair, judged solely by Asian judges.that year added, “China and Hong Kong The competition matched Asian food withcurrently control 60 per cent of Asia’s wine

h winewords HER EXCELLENCY MS KOLEKA MQULWANA H I G H C O M M I S S IO N E R F OR T H E R E P UB L I C O F S OU T H A F RI C A SKYE MURTAGHod For a little over three years, Her Excellency What is your earliest \"wine experience\"? the training you receive includes an Ms Koleka Mqulwana - High Commissioner My situation may be different to other element on etiquette which deals with for the Republic of South Africa in Australia people because of my background. the selection of wines, how they should - has called Canberra home. Born in Apart from my parents being religious, be consumed and the matching of the township of Athlone, Cape Town - and the consumption of alcohol being appropriate wine to food. High Commissioner Mqulwana garnered frowned upon, I want to remind readers extensive experience in domestic politics that there was a time in the history of How have your travels, both diplomatic in South Africa, serving as a Member of South Africa that black people were only and private, affected your taste for the Western Cape Provincial Parliament allowed to drink African beer. For many wines? - the legislature of South Africa’s Western in the township where I grew up, wine In South Africa, I would be more likely Cape province - from 1999 to 2010. was associated with wealthy people to favour a red wine. Perhaps because Here she held a number of significant and Western culture. Even today, in the historically South Africa’s wine industry was positions - namely Member of the Standing townships, wine accessibility is low and linked to Europe therefore South Africans Committee on Finance; Member of the is linked to affordability. Hence, my first were predominantly red wine drinkers. In Standing Committee on Public Accounts; wine experience was when I moved to a Australia my taste has changed. I now chairperson of the Standing Committee on university campus. prefer a dry white wine, a chardonnay. Local Government, Environmental Affairs and Development Planning; Member of Have you had any formal wine How would you compare the wines of the Executive Council (MEC) for Social education? South Africa to those in Australia? Development, MEC for Public Works For reasons indicated above, I have had There is no comparison - South African and Transport, and Spokesperson on no formal wine education. However, as a wine is always better! It’s what I have been Public Works and Transport. While she former parliamentarian, I was expected most exposed to. admits there is “no place like home”, to attend functions which encouraged me High Commissioner Mqulwana says her to become more knowledgeable about How have you enjoyed Australian wines travels around Australia have helped her the wines that were being offered, what since your posting to Canberra? understand the vastness of the country and region they came from and how best they I enjoyed some Australian wines at the the diversity of its people. can be served. Similarly, as a diplomat, Lerida Estate Winery near Canberra. I 46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

was there to attend a luncheon hosted young wine makers, especially those from represent my community in parliamentfor female heads of missions by the previously disadvantaged communities. was my biggest professional achievement.Ambassador of the Philippines. The Scholarships are being offered which As a former MEC for social development,luncheon included a tour of the winery include the Women-in-Wine Initiative. I was tasked to deal with vulnerableand a wine tasting. Lerida Estate is It is interesting to note that over the groups namely, children, women wholocated in a semi-rural area. It has a past five years there has been an equal were sexually or physically abused, andgravel driveway leading up to the winery intake of men to women under this people with disabilities. It was also mywhich is positioned at the top of a hill initiative. I would also recommend the task to make sure that all communitiesoverlooking Lake George. On arrival, we Overberg region. Hermanus in particular, were provided with access to aged carewere met by an experienced winemaker is where you can sit on a beach, take a facilities. In addition, it was my role towho told of the history of the vines which boat, experience Southern Right Whale ensure the equal distribution of resourceswere first planted in 1997 and which have watching and shark diving, while also to NGOs. To work with the aged was thebeen crafted to reflect the “terroir” of Lake enjoying the seafood and local wine. most rewarding role. I was the first MECGeorge. The cellar door atmosphere Interested buyers should make a point to to introduce sports for older people - nowwas welcoming and we enjoyed a very visit the biennial Cape Wine trade show called the Golden Games. Thereafternice pinot noir. I hope soon to have the held in Cape Town. It is recorded that I moved to Public Works where myopportunity to visit our Honorary Consul, 2013 was a record year for South African portfolio included the preparations forMr Robert Gerard’s winery, Tapestry wine exports, which broke the 50 million the infrastructure for the 2010 World Cup.Wines, in South Australia. litre mark for the first time. Finally, now being the first South African female Head of Mission accredited toIf you were marooned on a desert island What would be the most memorable Australia, I feel honoured to represent mywhat wines would you like to have? bottle of wine you’ve consumed? country’s interests in the region.Perhaps a chardonnay. A Buitenverwachting A bottle of pinotage consumed with closefrom Constantia or a Bouchard Finlayson friends in South Africa. Pinotage is a grape What could our readers learn fromfrom Hermanus would possibly be variety which was created in South Africa visiting South Africa and its winemy choice. and first marketed in 1961. regions? South Africa has much to offer. EachIf our readers visit the wine lands of Where is the most unusual place you’ve province has its own uniqueness - beSouth Africa what would you say they consumed wine? it at the city, township or village level.must see? As the consumption of any kind of alcohol South Africa’s flora and fauna is worldReaders must visit Stellenbosch. It is was always discouraged by my parents, renowned. Its world-class hotels andwhere some of our most famous wines are the most unusual place for me to have B&Bs, its local culture, the friendlinessproduced. The drive from Cape Town to consumed wine was at my family home. of the people, the heritage sites, theStellenbosch is stunning. Those making the It was when my parents first realised that diversity of our history, all make Southtrip will have an opportunity to experience I could be comfortable in taking a glass Africa a memorable place to visit. A visitthe beauty of our vineyards. The first stop of wine. It started a lot of debate among to South Africa and its wine regions willwill be the Spier Estate where you can family members and I had to explain to reveal the long history of wine making inexperience world-class hospitality, their my parents my views about wine and my country, as well as the quality of thefamous spa, their restaurant, the delicious the background that we came from. It wines to be found there. The benefits toAfrican foods, the combination of African was then that my father explained that the industry are evident in the increasingand Western music and, of course, the as black people, we were not allowed popularity of wines to a growing middle-wines. Be sure to take a train ride to enjoy to drink wine. My parent’s attitude on class. There are also health benefits tothe wonderful scenery. However Spier is alcohol did not change. They were not be gained from good wine, good foodonly one vineyard. There are many wineries happy. As a result they imposed two and good company. Wine is no longerand restaurants in the Boland region. As conditions: To drink moderately and not reserved for the elite in South Africanwe celebrate 20 years of democracy, to drive when having a drink. society but can now be enjoyed bySouth Africa’s wine industry has seen a everyone. As beautiful as South Africaprofusion of boutique wineries, some with What’s been your biggest professional is, the legacy of the past is still with us.world-class restaurants. This can only achievement? However, my country offers something forbode well for South Africa’s wine tourism As a young person, the opportunity to everyone. If you are looking for adventure,industry. There is also the University of serve my people at all levels was very luxury, relaxation, world-class food andStellenbosch to visit. This university trains important to me. Being assigned to wine; South Africa is home to it all. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 47

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVIN Page who has had stints at Circa in St Kilda but be sure to book ahead. 102 Smith St, and Prahran The Smith, is far more easy- Collingwood; phone (03) 9416 0698. going but still balances professionalism and knowledge in a casual environment. Taxi Chef Philippa Sibley gained her reputation Kitchen, level 1, Transport Hotel, Federation as a pastry chef when she owned Est Est Square; phone (03) 9654 8808. Est and Ondine with her former husband, Donovan Cooke, in the late ’90s and early Chef Adam Liston has taken over the 2000s. In recent years, Sibley has branched space that was formerly Gigibaba - the out into cooking the first courses of a meal, Turkish diner in Melbourne’s inner-north too. She had a couple of years at Albert Street that closed suddenly in early 2013. Liston Food & Wine in Brunswick and is now the has gone into business with Glen Bagnara head chef of Prix Fixe in the city, Melbourne’s (formerly of Hawthorn restaurant Chester first ticketed dining venue. Sibley has joined White) to open Northern Light Bar & Eatery. restaurateur Jason M Jones (one of the men While Liston insists it’s not specifically an behind cafes Porgie and Mr Jones, Snow Asian eatery, that is certainly where much Pony, Friends of Mine around the inner-city) of the menu’s influence is founded. Dishes for the venture. Book a table of two, four, six designed for sharing work in the small or eight, no odd numbers. She explains the space and the menu jumps across the concept by saying: “You don’t just make a broad and complex culinary elements of booking, you buy a table for the night that is Chinese and Japanese cuisines. Whole prepaid.” Think of it like buying a ticket for aTaxi Dining Room, in the thick of steamed New Zealand flounder doused in show or concert. The commitment is thereMelbourne’s Federation Square, changed a curry oil made in-house; charred shishito from the customer and the restaurant owners,in late February with the opening of the more peppers, togarashi and air-dried Blackmore and that commitment involves a four-courserelaxed and approachable Taxi Kitchen. Wagyu dressed with shaved egg yolk dinner for $79 and matched wines are anOwned by the Sovereign Hotel group, and wasabi sit alongside chicken, and extra $55 per person. A set menu, whichwhich also has neighbouring bars, Transport coriander with the bite of kim chi. The wine changes monthly, is designed around aand Transit Lounge, as well as the events list is interesting. Sparkling by the glass theme. The first month was A Midsummerspace Feddish, Taxi Kitchen is the flagship includes the Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc Night’s Dream, complete with a main coursefor the group and the significant revamp de Noir Columbia Valley from Washington of chicken titled Titania and Bottom made ansees a new menu, service style and fit-out State and a large selection of riesling and appearance for dessert. The next month’sthat is determined to be more accessible pinot gris to mix and match with the often theme is The Whole Hog and it’s not justand relevant, says the group’s food and spicy food as well as Sapporo beer on tap, suckling pig. Sibley describes it more asbeverage director, Martin Webb. Executive and a good varied cocktail list. The place is “going over the top on everything.” Prix Fixechef Tony Twitchett will continue to head named after the exposed globes hung from is open for lunch and dinner, Monday toup the kitchen and describes the menu as black rope over the bar and throughout the Saturday. Lunch (two courses) is $49 andfar more relaxed with “share plates, smaller room - one of Gigibaba’s legacies - and the dinner (four courses) is $79. Alfred Place,dishes for in-between meals and lots of small room of just 25 seats, but unlike many Melbourne, prixfixe.com.au. (no phone.)seasonal ingredients”. The slow-cooked of Melbourne’s inner-city eateries, they takeshoulder of lamb, sticky, tender and salty- bookings here so you can guarantee a seat Left: Just a few dishes from Northern Light.sweet is one of the more popular dishes Above: Interior of Northern Light.for groups and emphasises the ethos offeasting and sharing that the restaurant isputting forward. The spicy salt-and-pepperquail is a wonderfully messy dish, with awell-seasoned crunch and the sesamescorched oysters sees oysters searedquickly after being marinated in sesame oil.Determined to relax the decor of the place,the tablecloths are gone and all the existingwooden surfaces have been sanded andpainted, and the concrete floor exposed andpolished. The service, lead by Sarah James-48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELThe New Year saw a plethora of new Woolloongabba in partnership with front The latest opening is Gordita, a Southernopenings and a few even have the same of house man, Cameron O’Brien. Clark Spanish eatery with bi-fold windows onaddress. The M & A Complex was and Sakellarakis have joined forces with two sides and a bar that spills out into thecompleted after a two-year build in the heart restaurateur Adam Barton in the newest arcade. Comfy leather booth seating linesof Fortitude Valley and sports an arcade osteria, offering simple, deeply Italian the walls above which are colourful murals oflined with about seven food outlets. Papa dishes utilising great produce. Clark is a reclining senoritas, lamp lights illuminatingJack’s was one of the first to open with its wine merchant specialising in Italian wines gilt rubbed walls and low hanging copperCreole-meets-New Orleans vibes, honky so its no surprise to find the wine list is light fittings suspended over the bar tables.tonk piano and bayou murals decorating brimming with clever, organic, natural and It’s the latest venue for Jamie Webb whothe intimate space. Buffalo wings and po biodynamic wines for boutique producers is also the creative genius behind theboys rule, fish is blackened and there’s a from all over Italy. And to accompany all that perennially popular Peasant and, nexthealthy smattering of chipotle and grits. lovely vino, much of which is served by the door, Cabiria Luncheonette and Bar atIt’s the second bar for Emily and Marcos glass, are dishes like Spring Bay mussels the Barracks Complex, Petrie Tce. WebbNunes, who were part of the original team at with chilli and garlic, angel hair pasta with ventured across the road to Caxton St whereCanvas Bar in Woolloongabba. Channelling pan fried Gympie red claws with lemon and he opened Lefty’s Old School Music Hallthe French influence of New Orleans Creole, parsley and the house specialty, spiedo of towards the end of 2013. Booking bandswooden French cafe tables and chairs fill the three different spit roasted meats - herb that appeal to a younger age group, he allsmall space that is dominated by a large, rolled porchetta, free range chicken and but has the inner west night scene stitchedcurved brass-topped bar. Corner McLachlan angus rump cap all served with classics like up. Gordita offers small plates of light,and Connor streets, Fortitude Valley; phone dragoncello, agrodolce and salsa verde. bright dishes, quail salads, roasted baby(07) 3162 8466. carrot with caramelised goat’s cheese There’s a pretty little dining room off to and pig’s trotter braised with morcilla and Mighty Mighty was the next to open and one side that seats around eight that is broad beans. Cider poached prawns arefollows in the current Americana trend. perfect for getting your friends together for a stand out and there’s a section calledMore Texas than Creole, you’ll find ribs a special occasion and popping a super “on the bone” that is served tableside.and pulled pork, pepper and cheddar Tuscan or two. Meanwhile other partner Fire grilled “chuleton” of beef is a 1kgbiscuits, buttermilk fried chicken and duck O’Brien has been busy not only holdingjambalaya. There’s some serious brews, down the fort over at Woolloongabba but grass-fed T-bone served medium-rare,handcrafted and sometimes hard-to-find, also opening Sorellina, a sister venue right piquillo pepper, fries and blue cheese issmoked cocktails and snifters of fine across the road from Enoteca. one choice and a whole roasted chickenwhiskey on offer that reflect the venue’s with fresh herbs, apple and pancetta isobsession with “Fine US of A and a global Specialising in fabulous wood fired another. The wine list is fabulously eclecticpursuit of transcendent tippling”. Shop 6/7, pizzas and really moreish sides, Sorellina and Webb puts lots of effort into procuring100 McLachlan St, Fortitude Valley; phone also boasts a really smart drinks list - interesting drops, which includes ANZ and(07) 3666 0184. carafes of wines, of course, but also Spanish varietals but many of the “small craft beers, cocktail jugs and aperitifs. plates” work brilliantly with the perfectly dry Locanda came next - it’s an Italian Rosso or bianca bases, toppings include orange wines of which there are about six.Osteria and the second venue for Italo- sausage, mozzarella and rosemary, garlic, 11b/100 McLachlan St, Fortitude Valley;phile Dan Clark and his business partner, oregano and zucchini, ricotta and chilli. phone (07) 3666 0605.Manny Sakellarakis. The pair created M & A Lane, Fortitude Valley; phonethe much-acclaimed 1889 Enoteca in (07) 3852 1121. Above Left: Vanilla pannacotta with balsamic strawberries and bomboloni from Locanda. Above Right: Locanda signage. May/June 2014 W I N E S TAT E 49

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGBildo Saravia’s eyes become as fiery as an packed with beans and Arbol chilli sauce. Inner West. Renovated by Drink ’n’ Dine, thehabanero chilli when he discusses one of It’s so juicy you are given a glove to keep group behind the makeovers of The Norfolkhis favourite passions - mezcal. The country splashes on your clothes to a minimum. The and The Carrington, the only connectionscousin of tequila, the first mezcals appeared recommended thirst-quenchers? A smoky to the racy past are a sign in the windowin the 1500s when the Spanish discovered mezcal or Negro Modelo lager. I first tasted which reads “Live Girls” and a dessertthat the agave plant was perfect for distillation. a fresh taco in a street market in Merida in called the Jelly Wrestle, an “Eton Mess”But forget the old rot-gut mezcals of cowboy the Yucatan and have been searching for style concoction of jelly, ice cream, caramelmovies, export mezcals are sophisticated the same freshness and lightness ever since. popcorn and raspberry sauce crowned withartisanal products says Saravia, a native of Mission accomplished at Mr Moustache. a cherry. American diner-inspired food is thethe Mexican state of Durango. Together with The Pescado Baja taco was a Michelin star- drawcard - from smoked bbq ribs throughhis wife, Regina Bueno Ros, he owns Casa worthy dish of beer battered fish, pickled gourmet cheeseburgers, man-size chickenMezcal, a specialist import company, and cabbage and chipotle mayo wrapped in schnitzels and pork rolls with chilli sauce. The70 of the finest labels from Los Danzantes the lightest cornmeal taco. The Portobello pokies have vanished and intimate boothsto Pierde Almas line the back shelves of taco delivered the meatiness of the “king” of have taken their place. Quirky decorativethe Mr Moustache, the couple’s eatery in mushrooms offset by chipotle chilli, a spicy items include a stuffed bear, a mosaic ofBondi’s trendy Adina Complex. Named after sauce and mozzarella standing in for Oaxaca bottle tops and the disco ball that once twirledSaravia himself, the bistro/cantina’s small cheese. The mezcals are served in snifters over the heads of the strippers. James Squirebut gorgeous interior is the work of Tamsin and each has its own character because of on tap and expertly-made cocktails fromJohnson and the grey marble bar is the small-batch production. The Hall St location sundowners to bloody marys made with hotstamping ground of repeat customers who lures lots of young Eastern suburbs cocktail peri-peri sauce do a brisk trade. The Oxfordhave made Mr Moustache a hot-spot from the fans who drop by for mezcal-inspired martinis Tavern, 1 New Canterbury Rd, Petersham;first week. The Mexican menu is light years and margueritas. Many others also come phone (02) 8019 9351.away from Tex-Mex, and Bildo, and Regina for the desserts, too. A smart move whenknow their global food-and-wine matches. two of the “dulces” are brownie picosito de The truffled lasagne used to be the signatureIf Huitlacoche - a black corn truffle, toasted chocolate (a gooey chile-flavoured brownie dish at the now-defunct Buzo but it’s movedcorn and fresco cheese combo served in a served with vanilla bean ice-cream) and on, along with the vintage Cinzano postersglass - takes your fancy, the recommended guava creme brulee - a remix of the classic and grappa collection, to make way fortipples are Pistonhead Lager and Perrier- French dessert substituting guava pulp for Pinbone. The double-storey terrace premisesJouet Grand Brut. The menu is billed as cream. Mr Moustache completely blows now sport a communal table downstairs and astreet food but that’s a mean description away outdated perceptions about Mexican more formal dining room upstairs. Chefs Mikefor sharing dishes of real elegance and liquors and food - go soon. Mr Moustache, and Berri Eggert and Jemma Whiteman (exfinesse. We started with a guacamole served 69-71, Hall St, Bondi; phone (02) 9300 8892. Billy Kwong and Cafe Paci) are Wes Andersonwith beetroot chips which left supermarket fans and stills from the quirky director’sversions for dead and explained why I never imagined the day when the Oxford movies fill a large part of the walls. Pinbone isthe avocado “dip” has become a global Tavern would appear in these pages. Once the first permanent restaurant for the talentedfavourite. I thought I could take the heat the first pub that adolescent boys made a trio following a string of successful pop-upfrom any kitchen but tell-tale tears proved beeline for on their 18th birthday because of restaurants. A sharp sense of fun has beenme wrong when I bit into the Tortita Ahogada the topless bartenders, strippers and female retained, though. Fizzy Shit is the heading- a braised pork “calzone” of a sandwich jelly-wrestling, The Oxford has morphed into for the restaurant’s sparkling wine offerings, one of the trendiest hipster hangouts in the including two champagnes, a prosecco and a sprinkling of Australasian bubblies. The element of surprise is also a mainstay of the menu, from the duck hearts, nettle and brans to octopus teamed with cabbage, chickpea and beetroot. The signature dish is pork and pineapple which sounds like a Hawaiian-style nightmare. No way. The suckling pig is charred quickly with fresh pineapple, and you season to taste with herbs and nori powder for a taste explosion in the mouth. Pinbone, 3 Jersey Rd, Woollahra; phone (02) 9328 1600. Above Left: (Left to right) Bildo Saravia (Owner of Mr Moustache), Pablo Galindo (Head chef) and Regina Bueno Ros (Owner of Mr Moustache). Above Right: The Smoked Fruit Cobler at Mr Moustache.50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2014