Winestate Magazine September October 2012

varietal tastingG. Patritti & Co. JPB KilikanoonShiraz 2010 HHH Covenant BarossaVery charry/meaty Shiraz 2009 HHHHaromas and big, oak- A complex, aged styledominated palate, but layered with darkthere’s fruit freshness jammy fruits, licoricethere. $45 and leathery elements,Chateau Tanunda and wrapped up inTerroirs of the chewy, mouth-puckeringBarossa Greenock tannins. $44Shiraz 2010 HHHNose of chocolate andplums with spicy lift andlong complex savouryflavours. Soft tanninprofile. $48SHIRAZ/SYRAH Wolf Blass Grey Katnook Estate& BLENDS Label Robe Mount Coonawarra Shiraz2009 Benson Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2$40 - $50 Cabernet 2009 HHHH A very flavoursome Bright varietal definition and complex wine with22 TASTED to the nose with some a massive amount of16 AWARDED aged complexity. Well- oak and lovely earthy, balanced, chocolaty savoury notes. Still veryThe judges commented palate with lovely soft fresh. $40that the 2009 vintage tannins. Still a youth. $45 Cypress Terraceswas a more difficult one, Krondorf Hawke’s Bay Syrahwith more variability in Symmetry Barossa 2009 HHH1/2the regions and picking Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Massive amounts oftimes. However a An intense, rich and dark varietal fruit - richnumber of wines have vibrant style with dark and concentrated withaged better than first piercing varietal fruits, a violet-like lift on thethought and some are savoury tannins and good nose and excellentdrinking well. But overall overall balance. $48.99 palate balance. $42 NZa-hit-and-miss flight. Zonte’s Footstep James Haselgrove Z-Force McLaren Futures McLaren ValeSaltram Mamre Vale Shiraz Petite Shiraz 2009 HHHBrook Barossa Sirah 2009 HHH1/2 Intense mouthfillingShiraz 2009 HHHHH Ripe varietal nose with wine with a chocolaty,A long and generous some pleasant, aged barnyardy-like core andwine with a lovely characters. Well-rounded fruit cake characters. $40concentration of dark, palate with lingering Black Wattlebrooding and slightly toffee flavours and fine Mt Benson Shirazperfumed fruit balanced tannins. $49.95 2009 HHHby excellent use of oak Mocha/blackcurrantand supported by great bouquet. Nicelysavoury tannins. $40 developing palate with spicy fruit, chocolatyKimbolton Wines oak and chewyThe Rifleman tannins. $40.99Langhorne Creek Mum’s Block BarossaShiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHA lovely fresh, clean Simple, youthfulshiraz with vibrant varietal and harmoniouslyfruit definition, sweet balanced wine withoak, silky mouthfeel and great flavour profile.fine, mouth-puckering Finishes well. $42.99tannins. $42 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 101

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIBarossa McGuigan Shark’s Block God’s Hill Ranges Vineyards Hand Made McLaren Vale Shiraz Menzel Barossa EdEn VallEy Langhorne Creek 2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Deep purple wine, A mix of sweet plum and Ph: +61 419 817 017 A good wine full of plums, beautifully rich and milk chocolate aromas. www.bluerockwines.com.au cassis fruit, licorice and complex varietal fruit Warm in the mouth with dark chocolate, with some character, excellent rich, varietal fruit. $48 leathery age. $45 supportive oak and fine grainy tannins. Generous, God’s Hill Plantagenet full-bodied palate has Menzel Barossa Mount Barker great structure and Shiraz 2007 HHH Western Australia length. $42.99 Sweet, toffee-like nose Shiraz 2009 HHH RidgeView with earthy/leathery Peppery, barnyardy Generations Reserve aged characters and bouquet and good Hunter Valley Shiraz well-aged, spicy, licorice flavours on well- 2007 HHHH1/2 chocolaty palate. $43 rounded palate with fine A great wine - still very tannins. $45 young with brooding, Drayton’s Family dark berry aromas and a Wines William Bridge Pa Vineyard long, lingering palate with Shiraz 2006 HHH Reserve New Zealand generous, gamey, briary “A lovely drink - perfect Syrah 2009 HHH varietal fruit, lots of spice for drinking right now, Developing, leathery, and chewy tannins. $40 said one judge. Claret peppery nose and very Jacob’s Creek St nose and rich, complex spicy palate - well- Hugo Barossa Shiraz palate. $45 rounded and nicely 2008 HHHH structured. $46 A very rich and SHIRAZ/SYRAH flavoursome wine with & BLENDS Poonawatta Estate a chary, roasted coffee 2011 – 2009 The Cuttings bean-like nose and $50 - $60 Eden Valley Shiraz very elegant and pretty 2009 HHH palate. Well balanced 34 TASTED Slightly herbal aromas and still fresh. $49.99 26 AWARDED with aged notes. Warm, Zema Estate firm, dark fruit palate - Family Selection “A fascinating group of rich and vibrant. $49 Coonawarra Shiraz wines,” said one judge, 2006 HHHH “A real joy to judge, Jacob’s Creek Ageing well but still with a variety of styles St Hugo Shiraz showing the last from different vintages Cabernet 2009 HHH vestiges of youth. Very and regions. At this Lively, slightly green, oaky but also has plenty price winemakers can fruit aromas and spicy of dark varietal fruit, firm be generous with the plum flavours with tannin and long, enticing oak.” As you would grainy tannins. $49.99 finish. $45.95 expect, a group of highly Paper Eagle Linchpin recommended wines. SHIRAZ/SYRAH McLaren Vale Shiraz & BLENDS 2008 HHH Shingleback 2008 & OLDER Ripe raisined bouquet D Block Reserve $40 - $50 with a long, vibrant and McLaren Vale Shiraz well-balanced, chocolaty, 2009 HHHHH 20 TASTED fruit palate. $40 A powerful, rich and 9 AWARDED Dorrien Estate meaty wine - a real stand- Bin 1 Barossa Shiraz out! Dense and inky in “Crash and burn,” was 2008 HHH colour, with excellent one comment about Fairly porty aromas with balance between the this group. Despite the a harmonious palate; lovely dark licoricey price range there were oak is predominant but fruit and long, gritty too many 2008 wines fruit is intense. $41.99 tannins. Has interesting that were either tired or complexity. $54.95 over-ripe and generally over-the-hill from the 2007 vintage. There was a big division in results between the highs and low.102 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tasting Iint’snoavllaatbioonutAnnie’s Lane Copper Shirvington Capel ValeTrail Clare Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz Whispering HillShiraz 2010 HHHHH 2009 HHHH1/2 Mount Barker ShirazAn intense hit of Interesting balance 2009 HHHH1/2blackcurrant, dark cherry between the ripe and the A long, well-structuredand chocolaty aromas on elegant. Perfumed violet wine with generous,this nose. Full-flavoured, fruit nose with intriguing well-rounded flavoursfruity, chocolaty palate, barnyardy elements. and nice aged charactersgenerous length, with Sublime palate - subtle dominating. Smells earthyfine chewy tannins. Some but intense, long and and smoky, and tastesalcohol warmth. $55 generous. $52 chocolaty and fruity with lots of spice. $54.95 Ballast Stone Emetior McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Slightly porty, sweet red varietal fruits layered with vanillin and chocolate, and developing great aged secondary characters. Palate has length and balance. $50McLaren Vale Sacred Hill Saltram Winemaker’s AmcorIII Associates Deerstalkers Selection Barossa GlassSquid Ink Reserve Hawkes Bay Syrah Shiraz TempranilloMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 For more information contact2010 HHHH1/2 Great colour, great Vibrant, fresh and Amcor Glass Customer Service“A well-made wine; structure and great spicy, and still quite phone (08) 8521 4600 ora delight to drink,” flavour. Has a mocha/ young. Brooding, [email protected] one judge. licorice-like bouquet and inky blackcurrant and www.amcor.comVoluptuous dark fruit generous fruit flavours licorice aromas. Elegantand chocolate bouquet seamlessly balanced and complex palatewith a lively harmony by the oak and tannins. with a lovely slipperyof plum, blackberry $59.99 NZ feel to it and loadedand spicy flavours. with flavour. $50Good tannins. $55 Mr Riggs McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH Lovely ripe, red varietal fruit bordering on porty, with well-handled oak, soft supple tannins and a warm finish. A very approachable wine. $50 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 103

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIPaulmara Estates Haselgrove Il Coldstream Hills Greg Norman St Hallett SingleLimited Release Padrone The Boss Reserve Yarra Valley Estates Reserve Vineyard ReleaseSyna Barossa Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Limestone Coast Materne Barossa2010 HHHH 2009 HHHH A well-structured wine Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHNose is a complexity A great food wine with with long, solid varietal Ripe but well-balanced, Dense and slightly closedof vanillin oak and dark very solid, brooding, fruit characters, nice with slightly porty fruit, aromas, long dryingberry fruit. Rich and licorice-like aromas and spicy oak and plenty of alcohol heat, complex palate, well-integratedflavoursome in the mouth a good level of long and grainy tannins. $55.90 aged characters and oak and fruit. $50with lovely soft tannins well-rounded savoury Villa Maria Reserve drying tannins. $50 Summerfieldand warming alcohol. $50 flavours. $50 Gimblett Gravels Anvers The Warrior Wines Saieh Shiraz St Hallett Single Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale 2010 HHH Vineyard Release Dark, deep and brooding Langhorne Creek Lifted licorice nose with Mattschoss Eden licorice-strap aromas and Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 some floral notes. Rich Valley Shiraz very flavoursome palate A big, ripe wine - earthy and spicy in the mouth 2010 HHH1/2 with excellent tannin tang to the fruit nose with drying tannic Slightly porty fruit structure. $59.99 NZ and excellent tannins finish. $50 characters on the gamey Summerfield on the rich and nicely Summerfield Wines nose, with complex Wines Saieh Shiraz ageing palate. $55 R2 Shiraz 2010 HHH flavours on a palate 2009 HHH1/2 Runner Duck Estate Developing oaky nose; that has a great tannin Big colour, big oak and Passion Matakana some good white structure. $50 dense and intense fruit NZ Syrah 2010 HHH pepper notes. Generous Paringa Estate balanced by a good level A blackberry nose with flavours and long, chewy Estate Mornington of acid, and big tannin a violet lift and lots of tannins. $50 Peninsula Shiraz structure. $50 peppery flavours mingling Langmeil Orphan 2009 HHH1/2 Tapestry The Vincent with dark fruits. $50 NZ Bank Barossa Shiraz A typical cool-climate type McLaren Vale Shiraz CJ Pask Declaration 2009 HHH of nose - all spicy and 2009 HHH1/2 Syrah 2009 HHH Still a youth with a bright peppery. Light, spicy, fruit Complex aromas - fruity, Big hit of white pepper berry bouquet and flavours with great tannin leathery and earthy with on the lean, licorice warming mouth puckering structure. $50 CD much the same for the nose. Long, interesting ripe fruit palate. $50 well-rounded palate. palate; generous, spicy Soft tannins. $50 varietal fruit. $50 NZ104 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingWestlake Vineyards Reynella Fox Creek Old Vine Brown Brothers Saltram Winemaker’sEleazar Barossa Basket Pressed McLaren Vale Shiraz Patricia Victoria Selection BarossaShiraz 2009 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz TempranilloA big ripe old fashioned 2008 HHHHH Deep purple wine with Big, oaky, mocha 2008 HHHHstyle of shiraz. Good Gorgeous, meaty, great varietal fruit and bouquet with oak also Mature, meaty aromasbalance between fruit, chocolaty nose - dense, excellent oak selection. dominating the well- - lots of power. Long,oak and tannins. $55 complex and intense. Intense, dark aromas and textured palate, but generous palate is a Very nice palate with great flavoursome palate there is also excellent beautiful balance ofSHIRAZ/SYRAH enormous fruit flavours with soft tannins and purity of varietal fruit savoury tannins and& BLENDS and excellent grainy exquisite length. $50 underneath. $54.90 “polished” varietal2008 & OLDER tannins. Good overall fruit. $50$50 - $60 savouriness. $51.99 The Old Faithful Smythe Road Top Of The Hill27 TASTED Creedence Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz19 AWARDED Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH Complex licorice and Brooding, meaty, licoriceA solid group with blackberry fruit aromas, nose and a complexsurprisingly good results and a long and very savoury palate withfrom the difficult 2008 generous palate that’s mouth-puckering tanninsand 2007 vintages. soft, well-rounded and some dried fruit“It shows that good and very chocolaty characters. $50winemakers can produce with supple, savoury RidgeViewvery good wines, come tannins. $50 Generations Reservewhat may,” said one Hunter Valley Shirazjudge. Some nice older 2006 HHHHwines, still fresh and In excellent conditionvibrant, and ageing well. for its age and ready for drinking. Intense, vibrant, blackcurrant fruit and a complexity of earth and leather notes. $50Proudly made in the [email protected] +61 417 997 414 +61 408 855 272 919 Wines, 39 Hodges Rd Glossop, South Australia 5343 www.919wines.com.au September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 105

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIThe Old Faithful Dorrien Estate Taylors St AndrewsCafe Block Anniversary Barossa Clare Valley ShirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2Shiraz 2006 HHHH Raisined fruit aromas An excellent soft,A rich, flavoursome and and very flavoursome, rounded and well-seamlessly balanced clean fruit palate with balanced commercialshiraz with a harmonious generous tannins. $59.99 style that has a ripeintegration of plum fruit, tarry/jammy nose andmocha, oak and a nice Sacred Hill seamlessly balancedearthiness. $50 Deerstalkers palate of dark fruits, oak,Orlando Lawson’s Hawkes Bay Syrah acid and tannins. $60Padthaway Shiraz 2008 HHH2004 HHHH Great spicy New Zealand Grampians EstateIn great shape for an fruit on both nose and Streeton Reserveeight-year-old wine, with palate. Fleshy in the Shiraz 2009 HHHHmassive tannin structure mouth, with slightly A light, aromatic shirazand a generous line drying finish. $59.99 NZ that is still very youthfulof earthy, chocolaty, with plenty of tanninslicorice characters. $52 The Old Faithful and dark varietal fruits.Kurtz Family Top Of The Hill Will benefit from furtherVineyards Lunar McLaren Vale Shiraz cellaring. 3-5 $65Block Shiraz 2007 HHH2008 HHH1/2 A big, well-aged, Taylors St Andrews Paringa Estate Sabella ReserveNicely developed, solid, chunky wine Clare Valley Shiraz The Paringa McLaren Vale Shirazchocolaty nose and with earthy, leathery 2006 HHHHH Mornington 2008 HHHHgenerous mouthful of characters and drying “This is almost perfect,” Peninsula Shiraz This wine is a finedense berry flavours tannins. $50 declared one judge. Has 2008 HHHH example of some lovelywith firm, chewy, tannic many years of cellaring Lovely, youthful wine with bottle-age characters.backbone. $50 3 Rings Reserve ahead of it. Loads of high- excellent varietal aromas Has cedary, olive aromasJacob’s Creek Barossa Shiraz quality oak is sitting on and powerful, juicy berry and nicely maturedCentenary Hill 2006 HHH top of excellent varietal flavours with a spice box/ flavour profile. $60Barossa Shiraz A big, hot and porty wine fruit that gives long, pot pourri element. Good2008 HHH1/2 loaded with long, lingering intense flavours. $60 finish. $60 CDA balanced, weighty, flavours on the nicelypurple wine with weighted palate. $50 Lindeman’scrimson hues and plenty Limestone Ridgeof ripe plum fruit with The Icon Series Trio Coonawarrasome green dill pickle- By Bidgeebong Shiraz Cabernetlike notes. $59.99 Shiraz 2004 HHH 2010 HHHHHAll Saints Estate Complex chocolaty/mocha One judge describedFamily Cellar Shiraz aged characters on nose this rich and spicy nose2008 HHH and palate, with generous as being: “BeautifullyRaisined fruit bouquet tannin length. $50 exotic”. Palate is long,and developing stewed vibrant and loaded withfruit flavours with fine SHIRAZ/SYRAH complex, mouthcoatingtannins. $50 & BLENDS flavours layered withThe Old Faithful $60 - $70 lovely soft tannins.Cafe BlockMcLaren Vale 34 TASTED 3-5 $65Shiraz 2008 HHH 27 AWARDEDFresh blackcurrant nose; Harcourt Valleysome licorice and good “Lots of cool-climate, Vineyards Bendigobalance of oak, acid and medium-bodied, exotic Old Vine Shiraztannin. $50 styles,” said one judge. 2010 HHHH1/2Henry’s Drive “The wines tended to be Quite a light red colour.Vignerons Reserve less extracted and more Powerful and complexPadthaway Shiraz balanced than in aromas with spicy,2008 HHH the past.” But there floral elements and Thicker Than Water Thicker Than WaterSweet fruit in the porty were still too many lots of mouthcoating Shiraz 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHHspectrum with a nice wines showing early flavours that are Complex herb garden- Excellent oak-dominatedvanilla spike and mouth- development which is not balanced, complex and like bouquet with nose and lovely layeringpuckering tannins. $55 acceptable at this price. savoury. 2-3 $60 nice earthiness. An of dark, concentrated, abundance of fruit fruit flavours with flavours balanced by attractive chocolaty equal amounts of oak. elements. Value for Needs food! $68 money. 5+ $68106 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingWarrenmang Estate Whistler Mount Avoca Tim Smith WinesPyrenees Shiraz The Reserve Barossa Reserve Pyrenees Reserve Barossa2007 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHHA fine example of an Tarry, leathery nose Lovely estery floral Obvious vanillin oakaged, cool-climate and warm, lifted palate aromas, and a vibrant characters lifting off thewine. Pretty aromas - with excellent fruit/oak and velvety palate that is nose and a big mouthfulvery exotic and juicy, combination and some hot and complex. $69 CD of sweet, oaky flavoursraspberry/chocolate lightweight tannins. that are vibrant andflavours with lovely toasty Palmer intense. $70age. 5+ $60 CD 5+ $66 Margaret River Seppelt St Peters Sandhurst Ridge Shiraz 2007 HHH Grampians ShirazPenny’s Hill Footprint Reserve Bendigo A full bodied wine with 2008 HHHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 vibrant purple colour and A dense, full-bodied2010 HHH1/2 Perfumed bouquet - interesting sweet/sour- shiraz. Nose not givingGood winemaking smells of violets and like characters. $65 much away but palateobvious here. Wine has apricots. Palate is long, has great line of savourytoasty, berry aromas dry and silky smooth with Taltarni Moonambel flavours. Potential forand quite intense savoury characters. $60 Vineyards Reserve further ageing. $75currant and vanilla Boekenhoutskloof Pyrenees Victoria Rosemount Estateflavours. 5+ $65 South Africa Syrah Shiraz Cabernet Balmoral 2009 HHH1/2 2005 HHH McLaren ValeRichard Hamilton A big, hot, chunky Peter Lehmann Some spice and Syrah 2010 HHH1/2Centurion style of shiraz showing VSV Orrock Shiraz perfume on the An excellent wine - veryMcLaren Vale Shiraz savoury elements and 2009 HHH nose and lovely floral youthful with intense,2010 HHH1/2 some tarry age. Ready Smoky oak under ripe characters on the dense cherry and licoriceYouthful cherry, berry for drinking now. $69.99 varietal fruit with estery complex palate. $65 aromas, and excellentbouquet and long, Bridge Pa Vineyard floral lift, grippy tannins fruit integration on theastringent palate Louis Hawke’s Bay and high acid. $60 SHIRAZ/SYRAH palate. $74.99with good chocolaty Syrah 2007 HHH1/2 & BLENDS Elderton Neilpersistence. Still a baby. Excellent wine that has $70 - $80 Ashmead Grand many years ahead of it Tourer Barossa 3-5 $65 yet. Herbal elements 18 TASTED Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 on the nose and a long, 14 AWARDED Leathery and tarry on cool-climate palate. Shingleback the nose with a long, Unedited Generally a solid class medium-bodied palate, 5+ $62 McLaren Vale Shiraz of traditional styles and a pretty blend DogRidge Most 2010 HHH of shiraz exhibiting of spicy and fragrant Valuable Player A very young, astringent similar characteristics. flavours. $75 McLaren Vale Shiraz style with tons of oak McGuigan Farms 2007 HHH1/2 and good primary fruit Penfolds Bin 150 Barossa Shiraz Briary and dark berry underneath. $69.95 Marananga Barossa 2008 HHH1/2 bouquet. Good flavour Shiraz 2009 HHHH A nice wine maturing intensity on a clean, Heathcote Winery A fine, soft, smooth well with estery layered palate that still Curagee Shiraz shiraz with loads of fragrances and sound has a high level of acid. 2009 HHH potential for ageing. sweet/sour-like flavours. Vibrant purple wine with Slightly subdued, dried Will be even better in 2-3 $65 good length of well- fruit-like aromas but two-three years. $70 Paracombe balanced flavours and some very powerful Clayfield Grampians Somerville some sharp acidity. $60 flavours. $75 Shiraz 2010 HHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz A big, powerful monsterPeter Lehmann 2007 HHH1/2 Handpicked Yelland & Papps with great blackcurrantVSV 1885 Shiraz Very developed, Signature by Rolf Divine Barossa fruit concentration and2009 HHH1/2 savoury wine with long, Binder Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHHH estery floral notes. $75Subtle, dark berry and lingering, perfumed Shiraz 2009 HHH A soft and elegant Fox Creek Reservewhite pepper aromas. fruit characters lifted Nice complexity of style with a lovely nose McLaren ValeBlack fruits dominate by spices. Clean aromas and flavours - showing very estery, Shiraz 2009 HHHthe palate offering a commercial style. $69 slightly jammy with tarry, spicy/floral fragrances Big, extracted style withmouthful of flavour. licorice elements. $65 and intense but simple, loads of perfect varietal ripe, juicy flavours. $75 fruit and oak dominating 3-5 $60 Taltarni Reserve the palate. $70 Shiraz Cabernet d’Arenberg 2008 HHH The Dead Arm Slightly subdued nose McLaren Vale Shiraz and medium-bodied 2008 HHHH palate with stewed fruit “This wine has the balanced by oak and potential to mature into acid. 2-3 $65 a classic,” suggested one judge. Lovely varietal aromas and a velvety, tannin palate. $70 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 107

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIICharles Melton Bird In Hand Nest Cable Bay Vineyards Kalleske Edward Kalleske JohannNine Popes Barossa Egg Adelaide Hills Reserve Waiheke Barossa Old Vine George BarossaShiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Island Syrah Shiraz 2010 HHH Old Vine ShirazA delicate wine - quite Lovely deep inky/purple 2010 HHHH1/2 Dense, long and inky, 2009 HHHHsavoury with estery, hues. The nose has A well-balanced, just edging into the A dense, balanced,apricot-like notes and exotic fragrances mixed medium-bodied and jammy spectrum. Very oaky wine well-matchedaged elements in the with fresh briary fruit very well-made wine. flavoursome. Some by raisined fruit withbackground. $75 characters. Mouthcoating Lovely purple colour great tannins. $85 nice aged charactersCoates The Reserve palate is long and and spicy characters to developing. “SomeMcLaren Vale seamless, with layer the nose and leathery/ Lambert Estate very good winemakingLanghorne Creek upon layer of excellent licorice complexity on The Family Tree here.” $100Shiraz 2008 HHH varietal fruit. $85 the palate. $85 NZ Barossa Shiraz Kilikanoon R BarossaAn old-fashioned style of Kilikanoon M Barossa 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHshiraz with lots of very Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Smells of buttered toast Top-class wine.ripe, jammy fruit and A dense and inky wine with lots of red licorice Powerful oak aromas.plenty of aged oak. $75 with a big hit of spicy, flavours on a lighter Perfectly balanced, very blackcurrant fruit aromas palate. Tight tannins. $80 complex palate withWarrenmang and very warming on the licorice-like flavours,The Miracle Shiraz succulent palate, with Warrenmang grippy tannins and2008 HHH drying, mouthcoating Black Puma Shiraz cedary oak. $120A full-bodied wine with tannins. $80 2008 HHHdusty oak dominating. Kilikanoon Oracle A youthful, green wine Peter LehmannPlenty of length and lots Clare Valley Shiraz with loads of oak, and Stonewell Barossaof tannins. $75 2009 HHHH1/2 high in alcohol and acid. Shiraz 2008 HHHH A very dense, powerful Sweet on the finish. $80 A bright purple wineBoynton’s and still youthful shiraz with a solid, sound,Feathertop Reserve that will mature into a top Bethany GR11 savoury fruit nose andShiraz Blend wine, according to one Reserve Barossa a beautifully balanced,Alpine Valleys judge. Overall it is sweet Shiraz 2006 HHH juicy palate with silkyShiraz 2001 HHH and fleshy, and has great A fruit-driven style with smooth tannins. $100A beautifully aged red overall length. $80 a high level of alcohol Saltram The Journalstill showing some fruit Kalleske Edward and leathery, tarry, aged Barossa Shirazintensity with leathery Barossa Old Vine characters. $85 2009 HHH1/2complexity. $70 Shiraz 2009 HHHH Subdued floral fragrances A well-made wine with SHIRAZ/SYRAH with a perfumed lift andSHIRAZ/SYRAH Saltram No. 1 what one judge said & BLENDS nice flavour intensity,& BLENDS Barossa Shiraz was: “A perfect shiraz $100 - $150 with chewy tannins. All it$80 - $90 2006 HHHH1/2 nose”. Lots of cedary needs now is time in the A balanced, rich and oak on the palate with 19 TASTED cellar. $12015 TASTED very creamy wine. Great dark fruit characters 18 AWARDED12 AWARDED youthful characters, beneath. $85 excellent structure and Kilikanoon Green’s A consistent groupStrong class showing masses of brooding, Vineyard Barossa dominated by oneregional differences briary fruit flavours Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 producer! Overall thesefrom cooler region seamlessly integrated Good example of style. are strong, extractedstyles to the warmer, with cedary oak. $85 Estery spicy/floral wines many being quitefull-bodied ones. Good aromas and warm, young and “meals inquality across the board. complex palate; nice themselves,” as one savoury flavours. Needs judge put it. STAR RATINGS  more time. $80 Saltram No. 1 Saltram The JournalThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Barossa Shiraz Barossa Shirazexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2008 HHH1/2 2006 HHHH1/2All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Beautifully integrated Amazingly bright redprofessionals and are compared in peer aromas and lovely palate; colour for a six-year-old.classes by three judges. very pretty with some Perfectly balancedCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, unusual characters. Well- complexity of tarry/a major mail-order business. balanced wine. $85 spicy aromas and subtleCD Cellar door price. oak and berry flavours.CDO Cellar door only. Excellent tannin structure.SO Sold out. Very drinkable now. $120$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).108 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

E.Guigal Vignes Domaine Rostaing varietal tastingDe L’Hospice Ampodium AmpuisAppelation Saint- Appelation Côte- BespokeJoseph Contrôlée Rôtie Contrôlée2008 HHH1/2 France 2009 HHH WineFresh, fragrant, peppery A very interesting wineand spicy aromas and - complex, long and very Servicesslightly warm, medium- extracted with bright acidbodied palate with dark and chalky tannins. $135 DB Wines recognises the importance offruit intensity. $130 Chateau Tanunda global trade and has developed and built aGrant Burge The Chateau 100 sophisticated and streamlined wine exportMeshach Barossa Year Old Vines business which supplies bulk and bottledShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH wine at all price points to emerging andDense, cedary, licorice Aromas of herbs, spices developed wine markets. Services include:elements on the nose and and leather, and a soft,big, creamy, oak palate well-balanced and Existing Wine Range Supplywith similar characters to interesting palate. $145 New Brand Developmentthe nose. $139.95 CD Aramis Vineyards Winemaking ManagementKalleske The Governor Production ManagementJohann George McLaren Vale Syrah Full Export ServicesBarossa Old Vine 2008 HHH Logistics SolutionsShiraz 2010 HHH Savoury nose - smellsA complex style with like salami. Layers of E-mail [email protected] Phone +61 4 07 785 075loads of intense, spicy toasty oak, fruit, acidfruit characters and good and tannins on the www.dbwines.com.auoak balance. $100 palate. $100Songlines Estates Gibson AustralianMcLaren Vale Old Vine CollectionShiraz 2010 HHH Eden Valley ShirazQuite developed for 2008 HHHits age. Subdued Very fruity style; anaromas; intense fruit abundance of stewedflavours. Balancing oak berry and malty/chocolatysweetness. $110 characters. $100Trinity Hill Homage Katnook EstateHawke’s Bay Syrah Prodigy Coonawarra2010 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHVibrant, youthful, cool- Nicely matured wine.climate wine. Savoury Some herbal aromas.palate with good Moderate intensity ofbalance of tannins and sweet/sour flavours. $100acid. $120 NZ CranefordGralyn Estate Fire StationMargaret River Barossa ValleyShiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHHSpicy, perfumed lift to Caramelly bouquet withthe nose. Very complex lots of oak on the palatepalate with lovely soft and some tarry, fruittannins. $110 flavours behind. $135Trinity Hill Homage SHIRAZ/SYRAHGimblett Gravels & BLENDSSyrah 2009 HHH $90 - $100Simple, slightly mutedaromas. A lighter style 18 TASTEDpalate, well-balanced andmaturing nicely. $120 NZ 15 AWARDED Another consistent class www.thelindsaycollection.com.au - as you would expect at these prices. The wines were solid, but the judges expected more of a “wow!” factor from this category. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 109

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIId’Arenberg Prosperitas Reserve d’Arenberg Sandalford Chateau TanundaThe Amaranthine Shiraz 2006 HHHH Tyche’s Mustard Prendiville Reserve The EverestMcLaren Vale Shiraz Wine from a good McLaren Vale Margaret River The Chateau Cru2010 HHHH1/2 vintage. Tarry, jammy Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHA Bordeaux style with a bouquet and sweet, A big, but well-balanced Subtle, cedary bouquet Lovely, intriguing andperfect, spicy, savoury creamy and complex wine with loads of and oak dominating a complex wine withnose. Oak tending to palate; nice mocha pepper and spice, inky palate with an interesting characters of dried herbsdominate the juicy, notes and ageing fruit and charry oak. $99 flavour profile. $90 and beef stock, and somefleshy varietal fruit. beautifully. $99 d’Arenberg Turners Crossing fleshy plum notes. ReadyPalate is complex and Craggy Range Le Sol The Other Side The Cut Shiraz for drinking now. $195well-balanced with Gimblett Gravels McLaren Vale 2007 HHHpowerful tannins. $99 Syrah 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH Cool, minty aromas Penfolds RWTMollydooker Lovely floral fragrances Big, dense and opulent and long, dense, fruit Barossa ShirazThe Carnival Of Love with some barnyardy with characters of licorice flavours - still has some 2009 HHH1/2Shiraz 2010 HHHH notes. Juicy fruit palate and spice. Velvety tannins youth. Drink now. $90 A beautiful wine - deep“An old-fashioned style with excellent use of and high acid. $99 purple with estery violetwith potential to evolve oak. Can drink now or d’Arenberg SHIRAZ/SYRAH bouquet and tarry, tannicinto a classic in five-six has potential to age The Garden Of & BLENDS palate. Too big to drinkyears.” Excellent varietal well. $99.95 NZ Extraordinary $150 - $200 right now. $170fruit, cedary oak, and d’Arenberg Delights McLarenlicorice intensity and The Bamboo Scrub Vale Shiraz 7 TASTED Wolf Blass Platinumlength. $90 McLaren Vale 2010 HHH 6 AWARDED Label Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH A big, extracted Individual wines showing 2008 HHH1/2 “This wine will take years wine. Violets and character means Big, young and slightly to mature,” said one blackcurrants on the nose differences of opinion sweet licoricey style judge. Lots of oak and and palate. Mouthcoating among the judges is with juicy fruits layered savoury characters. $99 tannins. $99 inevitable. Invariably with cedary oak. Has d’Arenberg The Fruit d’Arenberg the fruit flavour is not a potential for further Bat McLaren Vale Shipsters’ Rapture problem here. ageing. $160 Shiraz 2010 HHH McLaren Vale Fragrant aromas and Shiraz 2010 HHH Wolf Blass Mollydooker long, dusty, medium- Inky/black shiraz - more Platinum Label Shiraz The Velvet Glove weight palate with approachable than some 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH dense tannins. Drinkable of the others here, but A powerhouse of a A big, rich wine still too now. $99 still a big wine. $99 wine that’s lively and young, but has potential d’Arenberg very youthful. Nose is a for a great future. Lovely, J.R.O Afflatus compote of berry fruit. spicy, floral fruit. $185 McLaren Vale The big-bodied palate Shiraz 2010 HHH has slightly green fruit Geoff Merrill Henley A very young wine - flavours well integrated McLaren Vale Shiraz strong floral/peppery with the oak. $160 2004 HHH aromas. High acid palate Some tarry, leathery with drying tannins. $99 development on the d’Arenberg nose and long, super- Little Venice concentrated, flavour McLaren Vale profile. $150 Shiraz 2010 HHH Powerful briary aromas. SHIRAZ/SYRAH Palate still high in acid & BLENDS and tannins. Needs $200 + cellaring to settle. $99 d’Arenberg 8 TASTED The Swinging 8 AWARDED Malaysian McLaren Vale More great flavours but Shiraz 2010 HHH perhaps without the A baby! Nose still ultimate accolades one closed. Dark fruit and would expect. Some here balancing oak. Some are ageing propositions ageing potential. $99 while others are better for drinking now.110 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingHenschke Kilikanoon AttungaHill of Grace 1865 Clare ValleyEden Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHH2007 HHHH1/2 Lovely, lifted, perfumed,A well-integrated wine, plum-like fragrances.maturing beautifully and Palate is soft and juicyyet still very fresh and with nice tannin spine.fruity. Complex forest “Probably too youngfloor-like fruit characters to be judged.” Needson the estery nose and a time. $250long, flavoursome palate. The Colonial EstateReady now! $650 Exile Barossa ShirazPenfolds Grange 2010 HHH1/2Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 A vibrancy of raspberryDeep purple wine with and spicy aromas. Syrupya complexity of leathery, palate, lots of intensitytarry, licorice characters and complexity. Not readyon the nose. Palate is a for drinking yet. $220great mix of savoury and E.Guigal Côte-Rôtiegenerous fruit flavours Chateau d’Ampuissupported by chewy Appelation Côte-tannins. $700 Rôtie Contrôlée 2007 HHH1/2 A succulent wine with Whatever you sell - products or services, light shiraz/viognier labour or ideas - Donaldson Walsh (DW) characters. Fragrant can help your business reach a higher level. nose and masses of flavour with long, even Recognised by Best Lawyers Australia, Doyle’s Guide tannins. $240 to the Australian Legal Profession and the Franchising Council of Australia, our exceptional knowledge Torbreck The Laird and skills span: Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 • Agribusiness • International Trade Long, warm and creamy with intense flavours • Commercial Disputes • Personal Injury Law that are a balance of old & Insolvency licorice characters, syrupy • Property fruit and cedary oak. $770 • Competition & Consumer Law • Self Insurance,McLaren Vale Paul Jaboulet Workers CompensationIII Associates Giant Aîné La Chapelle • Corporate & & Workplace LawSquid Ink Reserve De L’Hermitage CommercialMcLaren Vale Shiraz Appelation • Taxation & Revenue2010 HHHH Hermitage Contrôlée • FranchisingSlightly subdued savoury France 2007 HHH • Wills, Estatesaromas with a nice spicy Subdued cedary/ • Insurance & Business Successionedge. Palate is big, hot chocolaty aromas andand extracted with lovely long, interesting palate • IP & Technology • Wine & Hospitality.flavours of cherries and with tarry touches. $420brambles. $216 Visit our website to learn more: www.donaldsonwalsh.com.au Kings Chambers 320 King William Street Adelaide SA 5000 [email protected] September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 111

110 TASTED71 AWARDEDSEMILLON & BLENDSAustralia’s oldest (and some say most important) white wine. St Hallett Poacher’s Peter LehmannSemillon can produce great long living dry whites, or with some Barossa Semillon Art Series Semillonbotrytis, luscious intense “sweeties”. Here we look at some great Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2010 HHH1/2examples of unique Australian style. 2010 HHH1/2 A text book style of Fresh and delicate with semillon with an apple intense varietal characters pie nose and slightly of lemon, melon and developing lemon sherbet some grassiness. palate. Refreshing. $12 Good cellaring potential. Tenet Estate Barossa Semillon 5+ $12 Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH1/2SEMILLON Hocus Pocus South SEMILLON Showing start of toasty& BLENDS Australia Semillon BLENDS maturity on the nose.UNDER $10 Sauvignon Blanc $10 - $15 Beautifully textured 2011 HHH palate. “What a wine12 TASTED Subtle lemon/hay-like 17 TASTED - I’ll have two cases!” nose with some tropical said one judge. $138 AWARDED complexity on the spicy 14 AWARDED McGuigan palate. $7.99 The Semillon Blanc 2011 HHHA consistent and solid De Bortoli Prestige Worth a few dollars Peter Lehmann Candied peel aromas withclass of easy drinking, Semillon Sauvignon more. Still great value! Clancy’s Barossa some touches of bananagreat value, wines. Blanc 2011 HHH These tend to clean, Semillon Sauvignon and delightfully flinty“Great to see less Restrained lemon light, austere styles with Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 citrus palate with crispphenolics (pressings),” bouquet but good lemon few faults. Subdued grassy lemon acid backbone. $12.99noted one judge. intensity to the palate aromas. Palate is bright Amadio Wines Dog and firm acidity. $8 Smithbrook with lemon curd fruit Leg South AustraliaRosemount Semillon Jacob’s Creek Margaret River flavours - seriously Semillon SauvignonSauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon clean, fresh and bright. Blanc 2011 HHH2011 HHH1/2 Blanc 2011 HHH Blanc 2009 HHHH1/2 Pungent cut grass noseCrisp, refreshing wine “An exciting, lean, green, A wine with power 5+ $13 and lemon citrus palatewith plenty of good racing machine,” thought and pose and “magic” with nice nutty notes. $13citrus and cashew-like one judge. “Fantastic line length. Smells of tinned McWilliams Balance Brookland Valleyelements and some tight and length.” $8 beans and tobacco Semillon Sauvignon Verse 1 Semillonacidity in support. $9 Wolf Blass Red leaves with very intense Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Label South Eastern lemon blossom flavours Interesting toasty 2011 HHHLong Flat Semillon Australia Semillon and huge, pea pod lift on characters to the nose. Grassy herbaceousSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc the creamy palate. $14 Tight and lean in the nose and fleshy in the2009 HHH1/2 2011 HHH mouth with refreshing mouth with spicy citrusDoughy-like nose with Nose showing some Annie’s Lane Clare lime flavours. Long life flavours. $13some citrus notes. early development. Palate Valley Semillon ahead. 5+ $14 Hardys Crest SouthPalate is rich, complex balanced, sweet and with Sauvignon Blanc Eastern Australiaand fills the mouth with grassy flavours. $8 2011 HHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignonlemon/lime flavours. Casella Wines Subtle guava notes to Blanc 2011 HHH Yellow Tail Semillon the nose and followed Smells of honeysuckle 5+ $7 Sauvignon Blanc by a pleasant spicy citrus with a slightly sweet 2011 HHH palate with a prickly acid upfront and well-roundedDe Bortoli Sacred Nose not giving much backbone. $14 fruity palate. $13Hill Semillon away but good level McWilliam’sSauvignon Blanc of lemon sherbet-like Deep Woods Ivory Elizabeth Mount2011 HHH flavours on a creamy Margaret River Pleasant SemillonBright, simple citrus palate. $9 Semillon Sauvignon 2011 HHHaromas and soft, fresh Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 Herbaceous nose with aand zesty palate - very Lemon blossom floral lift. Lovely varietalrefreshing. $5 fragrances with hint of fruit palate with good banana-like characters. tropical notes. $14 Great balance of citrus, tropical and herbal flavours. $14.95112 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingTrentham Two Hidden Sea PertaringaThirds Semillon Limestone Coast Bonfire BlockSauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon Adelaide Semillon2011 HHH Blanc 2012 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2Fragrances of tinned Fragrant floral aromas and Creamy, toasty, lemonapples lift off the an excellent, lively warm curd nose ageingnose. Palate is bright, and tropical palate with beautifully and excellentlemony and delicate. balancing acidity. $19.95 lemon palate developing Schild Estate Barossa kero-like complexity, 5+ $14 Adelaide Hills rich nuttiness and charry Semillon Sauvignon smokiness. 3-5 $18SEMILLON Blanc 2011 HHHBLENDS Honeyed lemon curd-$15 - $20 like nose and creamy butterscotch palate with11 TASTED a crisp finish. $158 AWARDEDA small group of mixed Barossa Valley Estate Bethany Gumpara Old Vinestyles with maybe a Entourage Barossa Barossa Semillon Barossa Semillontouch more flavour than Semillon Sauvignon 2010 HHHHH 2010 HHHHthe previous group. Blanc 2011 HHH Golden yellow wine Simple, restrained and A simple, sweet style with developed lemon/ slightly spicy lemonBrookland Valley with attractive green melon varietal aromas nose with an intenselyVerse 1 Margaret citrus and lemon and intense, flinty lemon flavoured varietal palateRiver Semillon blossom character. $16 flavours on the rich, oily, that is starting to developSauvignon Blanc textured palate with good nice oily mouthfeel.2011 HHHH Catching Thieves acid balance and a long,Very soft and delicate Semillon Sauvignon firm finish. 1-2 $18 3-5 $18style with fresh, clean, Blanc 2011 HHHpineapple/citrus fruit Pungent green bean McWilliam’s Peter Lehmann Alkoomi Semilloncharacters. Residual nose and lively, fresh Elizabeth Hunter Portrait Barossa 2011 HHHHsweetness perfectly palate. Good pea pod and Valley Semillon Semillon 2011 HHHH Confectionery candiedbalanced by crisp tropical flavours. $17.95 2005 HHHHH There’s a spicy lift to fruit bouquet andacidity. $16.99 An enticing wine that’s the lime juice aromas beautiful spiciness to the Amberley Secret a wonderful mix of fresh and intense steeliness floral apple flavours withAlkoomi Semillon Lane Margaret River primary characters and to the flinty, citrus a long, persistent finish.Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon the development of palate. Excellent Should age well. $182010 HHHH Blanc 2011 HHH some cashew, nuttySomewhat restrained Quite earthy on the nose secondary ones. Creamy, flavours wrapped in Two Riverspungent tropical bouquet with pleasant, pungent, slightly oily mouthfeel acid. 5+ $18 Stones Throw Hunterbut it has a bright, zesty, grassy herbaceousness. with great acid level. Valley Semillonlong and creamy palate Similar palate. $19.99 Tyrrells Lost Block 2012 HHH1/2with lemon sherbet 3-5 $25 Semillon 2011 HHHH Fresh cut grass aromasflavours. $18 SEMILLON A ripe and generous wine with excellent lean lemon $15 - $20 that’s warm and creamy flavours, with an excellentTwo Rivers Hunter with buttery lemon acid backbone. A realValley Adelaide HIlls 18 TASTED aromas and melons and keeper. 5+ $16Semillon Sauvignon 10 AWARDED pears on the oily, texturedBlanc 2012 HHH1/2 palate. 3-5 $15A grassy, herbaceous Our first group ofnose and powerful citrus straight forwardpalate with good varietal semillons showingcharacters and nice acid different styles of dryedge. $16 and slightly sweet; some developed and others up for further ageing. JUDGESGemma West Ryan Waples Russell GallagherWinemaker for AWRI. Senior winemaker, Taylors National MarketingFormerly with Provisor Wines. Seven vintages as Manager, Serafino Wines.and Orlando Wines. Regional winemaker for Formerly State SalesTen vintages across Delegats (NZ). Previously Manager Tyrrell’s Wines.Australia and California. winemaker with Orlando Has been in the wineAssociate judge, New Wyndham. Has completed industry for the past 15England Wine Show. AWRI, Sensory Evaluation years covering all aspects. Course and has been Had three vintages in the associate judge at the Barossa and judged at the Rutherglen wine show. London International Wine & Spirit Competition. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 113

SEMILLON & BLENDSBethany Adina Vineyard Pokolbin Estate GartelmannBarossa Semillon La Belle Helene Semillon Benjamin Hunter2011 HHH1/2 Semillon 2011 HHH 2007 HHHHH Valley SemillonSpicy stewed apple Reserved citrus bouquet Green melon aromas with 2010 HHHHbouquet and smooth, and powerful lemon pleasant, aged, toasty Reserved nose; hintsfresh, lemon focused flavours on the soft notes. Lovely rich palate of dusty citrus fruit.palate with spicy, palate with its smooth texture with very good Excellent lemon sherbetfragrant elements. $18 finish. $20 toasty honeyed intensity flavours. Sweet in theHidden Sea and good line of acid. Has middle and starting toLimestone Coast Brokenwood Hunter many years ahead of it develop. Good acidSemillon 2012 HHH Valley Semillon yet. +5 $25 backbone. 3-5 $26Flinty, candied peel nose 2011 HHHand elegant palate with Lifted citrus characters Pokolbin Estate Phil Rothbury Estatedelicate floral flavours. in the green end of Swannell Semillon Gerry SissinghBalancing acidity. $19.95 the spectrum. Good 2006 HHHHH Selection Hunter level of acid. Some Nicely aged style with Valley Semillon development. $20 a developed nose but 2009 HHHH still has plenty of fresh Subtle floral fragrancesSEMILLON Rothbury Estate citrus fruit. Excellent mix with lemon juice& BLENDS Black Label Hunter toasty flavours with aromas. Powerful and$20 - $25 Valley Semillon great acidity - lively and tightly coiled citrus- 2011 HHH plenty of it - and years focused palate with16 TASTED A powerful wine of enjoyment still to salivating acidity. Ageing6 AWARDED with a rich concentration come. 5+ $28 potential. $29.99 Allandale of honeyed citrusSurprising result here Hunter Valley fruit aromas and Pokolbin Estate Phil Three Pondswith a number of these Semillon 2011 HHHH flavours. $22.99 Swannel Semillon Heirloom Semillonwines not as good as Zesty lemon citrus 2010 HHHH1/2 2011 HHH1/2the previous class. and green straw nose. SEMILLON Fine, slightly closed Toasty orangeHowever the good are Palate is bright and lively $25 - $30 lemon/lime scents with marmalade aromasvery good! with lemon sorbet-like some toasty complexity and nice complexity flavours. Good example 19 TASTED developing. Excellent of brioche, honey and of the variety. $20 13 AWARDED intensity of good varietal lemon butter characters Drayton’s Family flavours on nicely layered on the palate. $29.95 Wines Hunter Valley palate. Very good acid Semillon 2012 HHH The judges found line. 3-5 $25 Rothbury Estate Delicate grassy nose with this a fabulous class Gerry Sissingh a citrus edge and subtle for the price. Great RidgeView Selection Hunter lemon flavours, with fruit makes great Generations Valley Semillon a good line of acid. $20 wine - intense lemon Reserve Hunter 2011 HHH1/2 Ernest Hill Cyril mixed with developing Valley Semillon Subtle lemon blossom Semillon 2012 HHH secondary flavours. 2010 HHHH1/2 bouquet with a hint of Fresh gooseberry Soft, delicate style marmalade. Powerful, aromas and palate with with subtle, perfumed citrus-driven palate. a background of sweet, lemon/melon fragrances. Oily texture. Intense green, melon fruit Attractive lemon/ acidity. $29.99 flavours. $22 Saddler’s Creek melon flavours - palate Classic Hunter Semillon well balanced and well RidgeView structured and will Generations Reserve 2009 HHHHH develop very well of the Hunter Valley Lovely inviting nose with good range of years. 5+ $25 Semillon 2011 HHH Restrained lemon scented primary and secondary Coolangatta Estate nose. Lovely, clean, characters. Warm, Wollstonecraft intense and powerful Shoalhaven Coast honeyed lemon palate. Semillon “Coiled up waiting to palate with mouthcoating 2009 HHHH1/2 develop.” 5+ $25 oily citrus flavours Lively green colour with STAR RATINGS  showing lovely aged a slightly oily, musky notes. 5+ $25 varietal nose. BeautifullyThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of balanced palate full of SEMILLONexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Gartelmann creamy, poached pear $30 - $40All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Benjamin Hunter flavours with fine acidityprofessionals and are compared in peer Valley Semillon and good length. $25 9 TASTEDclasses by three judges. 2009 HHHHHCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Wine has some lovely 6 AWARDEDa major mail-order business. green highlights andCD Cellar door price. a toasty oily and Pokolbin Estate Phil A mixed bag! We areCDO Cellar door only. smoky citrus nose. Swannell Semillon seeing some older winesSO Sold out. Great intensity to the 2011 HHHH here and while most$N/A Price not available at time of printing. long, flavoursome and An oily, developed style have aged gracefully and generously textured with vibrant lemon offer more intensity of Contact information pg 168. palate with balancing curd-like aromas and secondary layers, others acidity. $27 refreshing palate with lacked that intensity that RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). controlled fruit power and is required at this level. lovely acid freshness. $25114 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tasting Rothbury Estate Coolangatta Estate Black Label Estate Grown Maturation Semillon Release Hunter 2006 HHHHH Valley Semillon A great varietal with 2007 HHHH1/2 lovely layers of toasty Pale straw wine with development. Oily green highlights. Lively citrus aromas and good varietal nose with some concentration of zesty attractive development lemon and oily buttery starting to evolve. Great flavours on the lovely long varietal power to the palate. Good drinking now palate with nice toasty or cellar. 5+ $45 edges. Good level of acid. 3-5 $30.99 Coolangatta Estate Estate Grown McGuigan Bin 9000 Shoalhaven Coast Hunter Valley Semillon Semillon 2005 HHHHH 2007 HHH1/2 Herbaceous/citrus aromas Clean varietal nose with with excellent toasty, a bright citrus lift and honeyed-aged characters. intensely flavoured, Lively lime juice palate honeyed lemon palate. backed by lovely freshAllandale Hunter Has elegance. $30 acidity with generousValley Semillon secondary characters2007 HHHHH Gartelmann evolving. 5+ $40Beautifully toasty, Reserve Hunterhoneyed lemon Valley Semillon Brokenwooddevelopment obvious 2003 HHH1/2 Stanleigh Parkon the nose with a Smells like a lemon Vineyard Huntergenerous yet elegant cheese cake with a Valley Semillonpalate that is brimming lemon-scented palate. 2007 HHHHover with custard apple Nicely matured semillon Good primary fruitand crème brulee-like for drinking now. $35 characters on the noseflavours. $30 with development startingPeter Lehmann Saddler’s Creek to “kick in”. Powerful andMargaret Reserve Semillon concentrated sherbetyBarossa Semillon 2007 HHH lemon fruit palate. Great2007 HHHH1/2 A fleshy, sweet style drinking for anotherZesty, lemon citrus with powerful vanilla oak decade! 5+ $45aromas with lovely, toasty, and broad citrus varietalhoneyed characters fruit. $38 McWilliam’sdeveloping. Intense and Mt Pleasantpowerful in the mouth SEMILLON Lovedale Hunterwith fresh citrus flavours $40+ Valley Semillonlayered with crisp acid 2005 HHH1/2and more honeyed age. 8 TASTED Smells of orange blossom and 3-5 $32 6 AWARDED marmalade. Generous, well rounded, oily palate As expected - a consistent ageing beautifully. Crisp class. “I was impressed acid finish. $65 with the soft, elegant and delicate fruit and the great Drayton’s Family seamless balance obvious Wines Heritage Vines at the top levels,” said Semillon 2011 HHH one judge. Very delicate and soft. Pungent, citrussy nose. Intense fruit palate that carries the acidity well. $60 Bimbadgen Signature Palmers Lane Vineyard Semillon 2009 HHH A pleasant, tight varietal with lemon curd aromas and very soft, delicate, lemony palate. $40 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 115

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINYARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIACHANGING TIMES deck. It can be booked as a whole or as MORE TO ENJOY a two-bedroom house and separate one-IT IS NOT so long ago that Healesville was bedroom studio. The Healesville Hotel is POP INTO the Elgee Park, Baillieu and Quealyknown colloquially as “Down at Healesville”. at 256 Maroondah Highway, Healesville; cellar door on the Mornington PeninsulaBut times change and today this vibrant phone (03) 5962 4002. and you can enjoy much more than just alittle town is home to many Yarra Valley wine tasting. With fireplaces in winter, or awinemakers and alive with bars, cafes and TAKE THE PLUNGE deck with views of Westernport Bay in therestaurants, including the excellent Innocent summer, the cellar door is part of MerricksBystander/Giant Steps cellar door. Among HUMMINGBIRD Retreat at Red Hill on the General Store, which is open for breakfastthe highlights of any visit are a drink and Mornington Peninsula has teamed up with and lunch daily as well as for afternoon sharemeal at the venerable Healesville Hotel, Peninsula Hot Springs to put together a platters and wines by the glass. Among thewhich offers classic country pub charm with series of wellness retreats – a very good wines available for tasting are the Baillieucity-slick service. For a more casual dining idea after a few days exploring the many 2009 Shiraz ($27), a recent trophy winnerexperience the hotel bar is open for lunch at the International Cool Climate Wine Showand dinner seven days a week from noon local cellar doors: Port Phillip Estate, and the Quealy Friulano, a white wine madeto 9pm. There are midweek specials, seven Foxeys Hangout, Stonier, Ten Minutes by from a rare Italian grape variety. Merricksbeers on tap and several local wines by the Tractor, Paringa Estate, Eldridge Estate, General Wine Store is at 3458-3460glass. The dining room, a regular award Paradigm Hill, Yabby Lake and Crittenden Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks; phonewinner, has an old world ambience with Estate, to name just a few. Then there are (03) 9458 8088. www.mgwinestore.com.au.open fires in winter, while the dining area the eateries: The Long Table, 10XTractor,spills out to the courtyard in summer. The Stillwater at Crittenden, Max’s at Red Hill VALLEY EXPLORATIONmenu features a plethora of local produce Estate, Montalto, La Petanque and manyand meat from the hotel’s own butchery, the others. So the Hummingbird and Peninsula THERE CAN be few better bases from whichadjacent K&B. The Yarra Valley pork, prune Hot Springs have the perfect antidote, the to explore the many highlights of the Yarraand suet pie, radicchio and mint salad was three-night and four -day programs provide Valley than Vintage House, a delightful three-a standout on a recent visit, as were the the opportunity to combine the best of bedroom cottage that strikes just the rightYeringberg lamb and pine nut dumplings global bathing practices and spa treatments balance between rustic chic and modernwith labneh and fresh mint. Main course with the art of yoga, lessons in nutrition, comforts. With three double bedrooms,choices include pan-fried snapper with and instruction in stress management VintageHousecancaterforuptothreecoupleswilted Warrigal greens, confit fennel, lemon and healthy living. Remaining dates this – and it is just a short walk to the main streetsand brown butter sauce; or roasted duck year include September 27–30, October with its many cafes and eateries – and justbreast, local wild mushrooms, beetroot and 18–21 and November 29–December around the corner from the Healesville Hotel.quinoa salad. There are also daily specials. 2 and prices start from $1170 double There’s plenty of space to stretch out with aThe wine list features many of the regions’ occupancy or $699 for workshops only. fully equipped kitchen, plenty of wine andbig names and smaller producers, including See www.hummingbirdeco.com.au or www. food magazines, airconditioning, a wood firethe Journey and Timo Meyer labels. The peninsulahotsprings.com. for winter and extremely comfortable beds. Adining room is open for lunch and dinner small library nook is the perfect spot to escapeWednesday to Saturday – with bookings for a quick perusal of the weekend papersde rigueur at weekends. Along with seven and there is a dining area for six. An outsideclassic-style bedrooms upstairs, also on site deck with leafy views is perfect for brunch –is the Healesville Harvest Cafe, open daily and Vintage House is available to rent as afor breakfasts and lunches, while Harvest one-bedroom,two-bedroomorthree-bedroomFarm, a 7ha property just outside town, house, starting from $180 per night. Long-stayis under the same ownership and offers tariffs are available. Guests are also offered atwo luxury rural accommodation options: complimentary wine tasting at the De BortoliHarvest House and Dairy House (both Yarra Valley cellar door – and free high-speedsuitable for up to four people). Furmston wi-fithroughoutthepropertyisabonus.VintageHouse, meanwhile, is located behind the House is at 41 Symons St, Healesville. 0438hotel and has three king bedrooms each 652 456 or [email protected] luxury en-suite bathrooms and a sunny www.vintagehouse.com.au.116 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

travelbriefsGOURMET DELIGHTS stars included sea urchin with silverbeet, The 112-room resort overlooks its own 18-hole viola radish and chicken skin; and salted Stuart Appleby-designed golf course and theDESPITE the closure of the acclaimed rabbit with green strawberry, sunrose and majority of the accommodation has balconiesrestaurant at Pettavel winery, the Bellarine quinoa. Much of the produce featured and terraces with sweeping golf course views.Peninsula offers plenty of gourmet on the menu is either grown on-site or There is also an on-site health club with a 25Menticements, including the stellar, award- foraged. There is an equally impressive lap pool, tennis court and gym and the new-winning Loam at Drysdale, the exciting new level of service and a wine list featuring build resort comprises of two interconnecting,Gladioli at Inverleigh, the hugely popular many local wines, including boutique three-level buildings with modern, well-Oakdene winery eatery and Bellarine labels like Amietta, Between Five Bells and equipped rooms. Hanners restaurant andnewcomer Jack Rabbit Vineyard, where Basil’s Farm. Loam is at 650 Andersons Rd, bar is on site with several restaurants inthe views are downright spectacular. Drysdale; phone (03) 5251 1101. the resort town of Torquay just a short driveThe food at Jack Rabbit is also excellent. away. At Hanners, head chef Pascal Meyes’sThe menu here features dishes like delicious NOTHING TO menus offer modern Australian cuisine withlime-blackened local baby snapper fillets SNEEZE ABOUT Mediterranean influences; ranging fromwith white bean tabouleh, and Moroccan- gourmet pizzas to dishes like sage-dustedspiced duck, nashi and celeriac puree with SO YOU want to get away from it all, take some Victorian chicken breast with seeded mustardblood plum jus, while the seafood tasting beach walks, or maybe play a few rounds mash, and lemon-peppered Western Plainsplate is also very popular. At Bellarine of golf on a spectacular resort course after pork steak with sweet potato puree. DessertsEstate, tastings can be combined with a visiting a few Geelong region cellar doors? are a speciality here. Think warm stickymeal and a sampling of some of the many Peppers The Sands Resort, just down the date pudding with butterscotch sauce anddifferent brews from the Bellarine Brewing road from Bells Beach, ticks all those boxes. freshly whipped cream, or white chocolateCompany range. The first micro brewery and Bailey’s brulee with hazelnut biscotti.in the region was established in 2007 and Peppers The Sands Resort is at 2 Sandsmakes a number of lagers, ales and stouts. Boulevard, Torquay; phone (03) 5264 3333.Julian’s Restaurant specialises in local www.peppers.com.au/sands.produce. The best food in the region is found EXCITING POTENTIALat Loam in rural Drysdale, where husbandand wife team Aaron and Astrid Turner FORMER Domaine Chandon chiefhave earned two hats in The Age Good winemaker Matt Steel is excited about theFood Guide and been named Victorian potential of the Medhurst vineyard in the Yarraregional restaurant of the year. Here you Valley. First planted by owners Ross andselect ingredients you would like, or would Robyn Wilson in 2000, the Medhurst site isnot like to try and the Turners put together now home to a recently completed new winerya degustation menu of four, seven or nine and barrel hall, as well as a popular tastingcourses based on your choices. Recent facility and cafe that is open Friday-Sunday. Designed by Folk Architects, the eco-friendly winery allows for public engagement: visitors can see fermenters, tanks and equipment, thus enhancing the cellar door experience. The cellar door cafe menu has been designed to accompany wines by the glass with paddles (platters designed to be shared), along with sandwiches, dips olives and a selection of cakes. Medhurst Wines is at 24-26 Medhurst Rd, Gruyere. See www.medhurstwines.com.au. Above: Medhurst winery. Below: Vintage House lounge & dining. Opposite page. Peninsula Hot Springs. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 117

101 TASTED59 AWARDEDYA R R A VA L L E Y& SOUTHERN VICTORIAAustralia’s centre for pinot noir and one of the bestregions for chardonnay also, we saw some great wines inboth categories. This is also a region that produces fineBordeaux – like cabernet and merlot. Lots to like here!SPARKLING OTHER D’Angelo Two Rows Coldstream Hills WHITE VARIETALS Officer Viognier 2010 HHH Deer Farm Vineyard5 TASTED & BLENDS Spicy, pear/peach aromatics Yarra Valley Chardonnay3 AWARDED with a floral lift and good 2011 HHHHH 12 TASTED volume of varietal flavours. $25 A perfect example of aA small but interesting 4 AWARDED tight, young, cool climateclass showing the value of CHARDONNAY chardonnay. Very classy, verysparklings with some bottle “Underwhelming; acres of 2011 elegant and quite savoury inage or time on lees. beige”, according to one character with all the elements unimpressed judge. This is the 13 TASTED in the right place. $39.90Foxeys Hangout same result across Australia 9 AWARDED Bellbrae Estate BoobsMornington Peninsula for these simple varietals. Geelong ChardonnaySparkling Shiraz The rest here are easy drinking A very strong class! “Lots 2011 HHHH1/22009 HHHH1/2 quaffers, which are “sound of modern, new style wines A lovely, lean, elegant style ofDry savoury style with a strong and varietally correct”. with the pendulum in the right chardonnay - still very youngbead. Leathery and spicy on spot,” said one judge. “These and exhibiting a delicate, flintythe berry fruit nose with lovely Coombe Farm are not herbaceous like a bouquet with a long, seamlessfruit flavours sitting in the dark Yarra Valley Pinot Gris sauvignon blanc or overripe like palate showing great flavourplum spectrum. A good wine 2011 HHH some of the older wines.” intensity. $28for drinking now. $27 CD A leaner, greener style. Nice presence. Spicy floral nose andYarra Burn Yarra Vally drying savoury palate - veryPinot Chardonnay Rosé moreish. $192006 HHHHToasty strawberry and creambouquet with delicate, violetflorals and a complexity of yeastyflavours, some sweetness andsavoury tannins. $26.99Yarra Burn Yarra Valley Coldsteam Hills Rising Coldstream HillsPinot Chardonnay Pinot Vineyard Yarra Valley Reserve Yarra ValleyMeunier 2007 HHH Chardonnay 2011 HHHHH Chardonnay 2011 HHHHNicely aged lemon butter A very “polished,” modern Plenty of well-handled oak hereand strawberry aromas and style with layers of classy oak that is seamlessly layered withlong, nutty, sweet, creamy and juicy, white peach fruit with pure lime juice-like characterspalate. $26.99 touches of lime juice. Good and supported by a good level fruit intensity, excellent level of of acidity. $55.90 D’Angelo Officer toasty oak and high in acid. $35 Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Plenty of character, not too assertive with fine acid and moderate complexity. $20 Sticks Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHH Varietally correct with bright gooseberry aromas and an upfront, sweet/sour palate. $18118 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

regional tastingYarra View Yarra ValleyChardonnay 2011 HHHHA riper, more generousstyle of chardonnay; veryflavoursome with plenty of oakand exhibiting lemon curd-likearomas and flavours. $25.99Coombe Farm Yarra Valley Coldstream Hills Reserve D’Angelo Lady Officer A.C. Byrne & CoChardonnay 2011 HHHH Yarra Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay 2010 HHHH1/2 Le Premier MorningtonA rich wine with great varietal 2010 HHHHH A very interesting and well- Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2definition of nutty, lemon and Lovely lifted lemon curd-like made wine with wild and A bright, leaner, high acidwhite peach characters on both aromas with nice smoky, oaky complex aromas leading to a style but has complexity withthe lifted nose and the long, spine. Long, complex palate soft palate with upfront oak, layers of delicate lemon peellingering palate. $29 with a creamy texture, crisp but well matched by very good characters and subtle oak.Foxeys Hangout acid backbone and some weight of varietal fruit. $ (by Aldi Stores) $12.99Mornington Peninsula interesting funkiness $55.90 Sticks No. 29 VineyardChardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Select Yarra Valley Dromana EstateToasty, nutty nose with attractive Chardonnay 2010 HHHH1/2 Mornington Peninsulalemon curd elements. Creamy in Aromas of citrus and white Chardonnay 2010 HHHthe mouth - lots of oak and citrus- peach with a nice touch of oak. Big custardy style of chardonnay;like characters. $30 CD A long, classy palate that is sweet, rich and oaky with ripe silky smooth and viscous in the peach-like fruit. $30St Huberts Yarra Valley mouth with very generous fruitChardonnay 2011 HHH flavours. $35 Oakdene ElizabethFlavoursome, creamy wine Seville Estate Yarra Valley Single Vineyard Bellarinewith nice fruit sweetness Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Peninsula Chardonnaybalanced by the oak. $27 Subtle leesy aromas with full 2010 HHH lemony richness on the nicely An oak-driven wine withColdstream Hills Seville Estate Reserve textured palate. Very good citrussy fruit underneath andYarra Valley Chardonnay Yarra Valley Chardonnay varietal fruit flavours over oak wrapped in a good level of2011 HHH 2010 HHHHH presence. $30 acidity. $30Delicate floral notes to the A very bright wine that has all Yarra View Yarra Valleynose and nutty-like flavours the right elements. Nice flinty- Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 PINOT NOIRwith oak dominating. $32.90 like oak, powerful varietal fruit A big, sweet style of chardonnay 2011 and good savoury tannins. “All it that’s very flavoursome with aCHARDONNAY needs now is time in the cellar,” great spicy oak spine and a firm 8 TASTED2010 & OLDER suggested one judge. $60 acid backbone. $25.99 4 AWARDED Goona Warra Vineyard15 TASTED Sunbury Chardonnay “A challenging vintage,”10 AWARDED 2008 HHH1/2 according to one judge, resulting Some nice complexity in some nice “lunch” wines butAnother strong class. The 2010 developing here. Restrained these are not for ageing.vintage was a great one for the nose but a richer, slightlyregion and generally these wines tropical, juicy fruit palate. $27 Seville Estate The Barbershow the quality required. “But Yarra Valley Pinot Noira few need to check their oak 2011 HHH1/2budget,” suggested one judge. A nice, light quaffer with some strawberry notes to the dusty nose and lifted spicy cherry flavours on a lean palate. $22Mark O’Callaghan Robert Paul JUDGESWinemaker for Oatley Proprietor of VintagerWines (Victoria). Former Winemaking Services. Steven Paulwinemaker/manager Formerly, senior consultant Manager for Oakdenefor Yarra Burn Winery. for Wine Network Wines. Completed AWRICompleted the Evans Australia. Was the chief and WSET AdvancedTutorial in 2007. Panel winemaker for Montrose/ Wine Assessmentchairman of the Victorian Craigmoor Mudgee for 11 Certificates. Judge atWine Show. Associate years and also worked for Victorian wine show andjudge at the Adelaide and Wyndham Estate, Chapel associate at Geelong,National wine shows. Hill, Coriole and Amberton. Ballarat and Cairns. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 119

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTH E RN VIC TORIA Dromana Estate Clyde Park Reserve Robert Oatley Mornington Peninsula Bannockburn Geelong Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2010 HHHHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2010 HHH A slightly sweet, lifted, perfumed Slight cedary oak notes on the Smells like a Cherry Ripe bouquet and a firm and well- perfumed, red fruit nose. Rich, chocolate bar with a drying palate balanced dark red fruit palate dense palate with good savoury that is sweet and malty. $23.99 that is intense, powerful and pinot characters. $37 very long with some very good tannins in a supporting role. $30St Huberts Hubert French Island VineyardThe Stag Yarra Valley French Island Pinot NoirPinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2Earthy, spicy, perfumed aromas A precise and classy pinot withand bright red fruit flavours with jubey, cherry fragrances and asome firm oak tannins and good sweet fruit entry to the long,acid backbone. 3-5 $24 silky palate that has both length and generosity of flavour. D’Angelo Il BerardinoSt Huberts Yarra Valley Excellent wine. $23 The Tudor Yarra Valley Reserve Officer Pinot NoirPinot Noir 2011 HHH Dromana Estate Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHPlums and licorice on the nose 30th Anniversary Bright berry fruit nicely integrated A leaner, perfumed style withand firm, jubey strawberries Mornington Peninsula with good use of oak, interesting nice strawberry-like fruit andand cream palate with herbal Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 meaty notes and very good, firm velvety texture in the mouth. $40notes. $33 Long, beautifully textured wine tannins. (by Aldi Stores) $12.99 layered with beetroot, briary Yarra View Yarra Valley OTHERColdstream Hills fruit and cedary oak characters Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 RED VARIETALSYarra Valley Pinot Noir threaded through with slightly Slight resinous character to & BLENDS2011 HHH perfumed menthol notes. $55 the meaty/malty nose andBig, firm, chocolaty style; some mouthfilling, rich ripe flavours. 11 TASTEDraspberries, some perfume and Toolangi Yarra Valley Has power and freshness. $28.99 7 AWARDEDfirm acid spine. $34.90 Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Tollana Robinson Vineyard The judges agreed there Perfumed aromas; quite Mornington Peninsula were some quality winesPINOT NOIR complex and fresh and lively in Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 here. “The cabernets showed2010 & OLDER the mouth with dense, sweet Smells earthy with beetroot, finesse and genuine cabernet fruit flavours showing good plum and floral elements. fragrances,” noted one judge.21 TASTED tannin and acid balance. $23 Sweet licorice intensity to the Oakdene Peta’s Single palate with good retention of St Huberts15 AWARDED Vineyard Bellarine freshness. $38 Yarra Valley Cabernet Peninsula Pinot Noir Sticks No. 29 Vineyard Merlot 2010 HHHH1/2Another excellent line-up of 2010 HHHH Select Yarra Valley Pinot Good cassis-like cabernetpinots with lots of good drinking Big and rich with a dark fruit Noir 2010 HHH1/2 fragrances showing nicevarietal examples. A few did profile and powerful palate Slightly meaty aromas and good savoury meaty edge with asuffer reduced points by edging with loads of firm tannins flavour intensity to the palate long, inky palate that has goodmore towards dry reds rather nicely integrated with the well- with a nice savoury edge, well- fruit concentration, dryingthan being varietals. managed, spicy oak. $35 balanced by toasty oak. $45 tannins and plenty of oak. $27 Trentham EstateMornington Estate Mornington PeninsulaMornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2Pinot Noir 2010 HHHHH A long, lingering, powerful wineLovely long and complex pinot - with stacks of luscious Turkishtrue to the variety with interesting Delight-like fruit and plenty oflayers of raspberry and cherry-like upfront oak. $30fruits, good level of spicy oak, Steels Gate Yarra Valleylifted herbal notes and good Pinot Noir 2010 HHHmeaty savouriness. $25 A pretty, fruit-driven wine with perfumed, cherry fruit and a slight malty character. $24.95120 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

regional tasting Sticks Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH More of a claret style with fresh, fragrant, meaty aromas and medium bodied palate. $20Coldstream Hills Yarra View Yarra Valley Seville Estate Old Vine D’Angelo Ben’s OfficerYarra Valley Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Yarra Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Dark mocha nose and palateA very good wine with loads of A leafy nose with a touch of A nice, lean, savoury style of with a fruity lift. Very good sweetdark fruit, chocolate and hints tobacco and a firm, drying, shiraz with some good spicy entry to the palate. Nice tannins.of mint on the nose. A lovely minty/mocha palate. $28.99 oak fragrances. It’s tight, juicy Needs decanting. $25varietal fruit-driven palate that Sticks No. 29 and flavoursome in the mouthis quite sweet with a slightly Yarra Valley Cabernet with lots of toasty oak and SWEET WHITESdusty finish. $34.90 Sauvignon 2008 HHH long, fine grained tannins. $60St Huberts Yarra Valley Very fresh for a four-year-old with Barwon Ridge Wines 3 TASTEDCabernet Sauvignon syrupy sweet red fruits, plenty of Geelong Shiraz 2010 HHHH 2 AWARDED2010 HHHH tannins and good acid. $40 A showy, flashy number! RipeSmoky/tobacco aromas lifted plums on the nose; plenty of A couple of nice, completelyby some eucalypt characters SHIRAZ/SYRAH oak on top. Oaky palate but different, sweet whites withwith a very nicely focused, ripe, with enough sweet fruit and one viscous and rich - the otherfleshy palate that has quite a 13 TASTED powerful tannins to match. $28 crisp and elegant. Encouraging!distinct mintiness. $33 5 AWARDED “Lots of nice cool climate Coombe Farm Botrytis concentration here,” said one Dessert Wine Yarra Valley judge. “Nice fine tannins and Noble Viognier 2011 HHHH good length are the hallmarks.” Lovely nose - smells of apricots and honeysuckle. Interesting Coldstream Hills palate - quite viscose with a Reserve Yarra Valley balanced intensity of alcohol Shiraz 2010 HHHHH and sweetness. $25 Good inkiness on the nose; quite oaky with a big dash of Bass River Gippsland Ice spices and pepper. Medium Riesling 2011 HHH1/2 weight palate full of sweet, Pale gold wine with nice florals raspberry-like varietal fruit, and pear characters on the meaty elements and lovely nose with some good lime mouthcoating tannins. $55.90 juiciness on the palate. $25Coldstream Hills Yarra Oakdene William STAR RATINGS Valley Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 Single Vineyard BellarineFirm and soft with a good Peninsula Shiraz Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofvarietal nose and excellent 2010 HHHH1/2 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.tannin structure on the upfront, Very ripe, tarry aromas with a All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industrysweet fruit palate. $34.90 spicy fruit lift. Silky smooth in the professionals and are compared in peer mouth with lovely fresh plum and classes by three judges. dark berry fruit flavours. “Should CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, have a long life ahead of it,” said a major mail-order business. one judge. $30 CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 121

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINRIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSWEXPLORE THE WETLANDS ON THE MOVE during the summer and a fireplace for the colder months. The menu showcases bistroBANROCK Station is not only the name of EATERY Three Chefs, a long-time Wagga favourites, some with an Asian accent. Thinkone of our best-known wine labels - it also Wagga favourite, has moved from The starters like crispy pork belly with parsnipoffers the chance to combine a food and Townhouse and is now located at 97 puree, or seared scallops with sweet cornwine experience with an exploration of nature. Fitzmaurice St on the site of the former puree, crispy speck and micro herbs (bothSituated in the heart of the Riverland, Banrock Tourist Hotel. It remains a popular hangout $22.50), or mains, including rare roastedStation Wine and Wetlands Centre features with its large bar area, cafe and restaurant venison with beetroot puree, confit celeriac,scenic walking trails around magnificently sections. The venue offers something for quail eggs and parmesan crisps ($39). Therestored, Ramsar-listed wetlands with story everyone, with coffees, cakes, brunches wine list here has a dozen choices by thecentres, information huts and bird hides where and light lunches during the day and small glass and features names like All Saints,you can view abundant wildlife. The centre, plates or three-course dinner options at Stefano Lubiana and O’Leary Walker, asoverlooking the vineyards and panoramic night. The dinner menu features entrees well as Riverina favourites like Bidgeebong, Borambola and Westend. Thyme Out is at 38 Morrow St, Wagga Wagga, and is open for lunch Tuesday to Friday, and dinner Thursday to Saturday; phone (02) 6921 5962. RIVER VIEWS OPPOSITE the River Murray and parklands is the new addition to the Best Western hotel group: the Hovell Tree Inn, Albury. The award winning, 4.5-star hotel is situated close to the town centre and is just a 15-minute stroll from shops, restaurants and cafes. The Hovellwetlands, is an ideal spot to relax and enjoy like orange and port-braised sticky duck Tree Inn boasts friendly and professionallunch from a menu which showcases the leg with parsnip puree, and salt-crusted service at an affordable price, and thereoutstanding produce available in the region king prawns with witlof and caramelised are 60 rooms, several with self-contained– and a function room is available for special leek (both $18.50), and hearty mains like kitchens and laundries. There are also spaevents, conferences or group celebrations. char-grilled eye fillet with fondant potatoes rooms available. All rooms feature queen orFour self-guided walking trails allow you to ($35) and roasted lamb rack with vanilla king-size beds, Austar with movie channels,experience different aspects of the wetlands bean mash ($34.50), along with an enticing broadband wireless internet, air conditioning,and walks cost $3 per person. The tasting choice of desserts, including chef Karl toaster, mini bar and tea/coffee makingfacility sits on a ridge offering views of the Kelly’s chocolate spring rolls. Three Chefs facilities. In summer, guests can also enjoylagoon, vineyards and beyond. It is built of is open Tuesday-Saturday; phone (02) 6921rammed earth from local soils and sustainable 5897 or see www.threechefs.com.au.Australian plantation timber, using energyefficient design principles and incorporating COSY EATERYsolar power. It is visited by over 80,000 peopleeach year. Lunch is available daily from noon- WHILE Three Chefs has a modern vibe,3pm with a grazing menu served from 10am award-winning Thyme Out At The Manorand coffee and cakes from 9am. The lunch Restaurant is situated in an early 19th-centurymenu features dishes like duck confit; Asian- mansion. The dining areas, part of formerstyle ribs and braised pork cheeks, as well doctor’s rooms, feature antiques, polishedas a selection of platters. Banrock Station is wooden floors and white linen tablecloths andat Holmes Rd, Kingston on Murray, SA; (08) this cosy eatery is open for both lunch and8583 0299. www.banrockstation.com.au. dinner, with a paved al fresco area popular122 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

travelbriefsa heated swimming pool, spa and sauna as THE BEST OF SA breakfast, at American River, Penneshaw orwell as a fully-equipped gym. The property Kingscote. Day two will see guests visit Emuoffers two conference rooms catering for up CAPTAIN Cook Cruises has introduced a Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery, Parndana Wildlifeto 200 delegates. Guests can dine and drink new cruise and land holiday: the Kangaroo Park, Hanson Bay Sanctuary and Koala Walkat the hotel’s restaurant and bar, or opt for Island and Murray Princess Combo that for lunch, Flinders Chase National Park,room service. The restaurant is open seven will be of interest to wine and food lovers. Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch and itsdays for breakfast and dinner. The Albury The new deal includes three or four nights New Zealand fur seal colony before returningarea has a wealth of activities and attractions cruising the Murray River on board the to Penneshaw for the return ferry and coachfor tourists, including historic gold-mining large paddlewheeler, the Murray Princess, to Adelaide. An optional full-day Barossatowns, wineries, snowfields, the Murray one night in Adelaide and two days on Valley tour is available when disembarkingRiver and Lake Hume. The Best Western Kangaroo Island. Passengers will spend the the Murray Princess at Mannum. Those onHovell Tree Inn is at the corner of Hovell St first part of their trip cruising the Murray and the tour will return to Adelaide at 5.30pmand Wodonga Pl, Albury; phone (02) 6042 exploring the big river gorges, the bio-diverse that day in time for the transfers the following3900. http://hovelltree.bestwestern.com.au/ Murray riverlands and flora and fauna of the morning to Kangaroo Island. The five-night Outback. They will also experience day trips package starts from $1879 per person twinAIR LINKS to historic ports, sacred Aboriginal sites, a share and includes three nights on the Murray woolshed and a native wildlife shelter. On- Princess, one night at the Mercure GrosvenorIT IS NOW a lot easier to get to Mildura after board, passengers will enjoy outside cabin Hotel and one night on Kangaroo Island. TheRegional Express Airlines (Rex) announced accommodation, all meals, the use of two six-night package starts at $2158 per personnew air services for the city. From July, spas, two saunas, a sun deck, two bars, two twin share and includes four nights on theMildura again has direct flights to Adelaide lounges, a single sitting dining saloon and Murray Princess, one night at the Mercureand Sydney in addition to two, daily return great entertainment. Following the cruise, a Grosvenor Hotel and one night on Kangarooflights to Broken Hill. Rex general manager coach will transfer passengers to the Mercure Island. Tariffs are valid until March 31, 2013.for network strategy Warrick Lodge said the Grosvenor Hotel in Adelaide. After a day to For information and bookings phone (02) 9206new services and schedule changes would enjoy Adelaide's main tourist attractions, 1111. www.captaincook.com.au.bring significant socio-economic benefits to including Rundle Mall, Skycity Casino,Mildura. Peter O'Donnell, chairman of the museums and art galleries, guests will be RIVERINA ROMPboard at Mildura Airport, welcomed the new transferred to Cape Jervis where they willservices provided by Rex, saying: “The new join one of SeaLink's ferries to the emerging unWINEd in the Riverina is an annual eventservices will provide important connections gourmet destination of Kangaroo Island. Day held by local wineries in the Griffith area,to Sydney and Adelaide for leisure and one on Kangaroo Island includes a visit to focusing on wine accompanied by regionalbusiness travellers, together with a convenient Clifford's Honey Farm, a Birds of Prey show, food. The event is held in Griffith every Juneconnection to Broken Hill\". Regional Express pelican feeding and lunch at Vivonne Bay long weekend, with local wineries offeringis Australia's largest independent regional Bistro. Guests will then settle into their choice a range of activities, including tutoredairline. See www.rex.com.au. of overnight island accommodation, including tastings, cooking demonstrations, musical performances, food and entertainment for the whole family. Griffith is one of the liveliest country cities in New South Wales and well worth a visit if dropping in at cellar doors, including De Bortoli, Westend or Yarran. Seventy per cent of all NSW wine is grown in the region – along with all the gherkins sold at McDonald’s. If you are looking for a hearty feed, or great coffee and cake, you can’t go farther than the bustling and friendly Miei Amici, 350 Banna Ave, Griffith; phone (02) 6962 5999. See www.griffith.com.au. Above: Hovell Tree Inn deluxe queen twin room. Opposite page. Banrock Station Wetlands Centre and restaurant dining. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 123

111 TASTED50 AWARDEDRIVER REGIONSAustralia’s wine engine room, this is where we find the PINOT GRIGIO Oxford Landing Estatesbest value wines available, and during the cool vintages & BLENDS South Australia Sauvignonsome amazing wines that would command a much Blanc 2011 HHHhigher price if they were from the more promoted 6 TASTED Good commercial style withregions. Also look out for the Mediterranean varieties 2 AWARDED lift of citrus and herbs on thethat perform best in these warmer climates. nose and zesty, fresh lemon A class of simple fruit wines flavours. $7SPARKLING OTHER with a couple having nice citrus WHITE VARIETALS and textural balance. Sarantos Soft Press7 TASTED & BLENDS South Australia Sauvignon3 AWARDED Hardys Nottage Hill Blanc 2011 HHH 7 TASTED South Eastern Australia Pungent gooseberry nose withA range of fruit quality levels 4 AWARDED Pinot Grigio 2011 HHH stinging nettle notes. Fresh andhere. The better wines Subtle fruit and marzipan-like herbaceous in the mouth. $10showed some autolysis yeast Some nice, clean, varietal aromas and bright, lively,complexity, while the lesser characters here. Amazing flavoursome citrus/pear Trentham Sauvignonwines had sugar balance issues value. Great lunch wines! palate. $9.99 Blanc 2011 HHHor were too advanced. Smells of apple blossoms with Trentham Estate Casella Wines Yellow Tail rich, fleshy, fruity flavours. VeryHardys Nottage Hill South Viognier 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Grigio 2010 HHH fresh and very varietal. $14Eastern Australia Cuvee Orange blossom-like fragrances Earthy elements to the noseBrut 2011 HHHH layered with tropical fruits. and flavours developing nicely De Bortoli Deen DeA good wine with bright green Similar characters on the on the lovely palate. $9 Bortoli Vat 2 Sauvignonhues and aromas of pears and generous, sweet palate. $16 Blanc 2010 HHHapples, with some tropical SAUVIGNON Creamy, honeyed bouquet andnotes. Nice complexity to the McWilliam’s Inheritance BLANC & BLENDS tropical palate. Still fresh andcreamy, soft palate. $9.99 Riesling 2011 HHH flavoursome with slight residual Aged kero characters on the 15 TASTED sugar. $11Killawarra South Eastern nose and good brown lime cordial 6 AWARDEDAustralia Brut 2011 HHH flavours. Smooth finish. $5 CHARDONNAYAromatic floral nose and A mixed bag! “Some may have & BLENDSa sound and fresh palate Hardys Nottage Hill been picked too early with toowith searing acidity. Good South Eastern Australia much sugar,” said one judge. 13 TASTEDcommercial wine. $8 Riesling 2011 HHH “There is a small window of 8 AWARDED Lifted tropical fruit bouquet opportunity to get it right in aMirabella Sparkling with some pungent, green warm climate.” A bit more solid. “GoodShiraz 2009 HHH characters developing on the examples of inland fruit inGamey, meaty nose and flavours palate. $9.99 Quarisa 30 Mile Sauvignon different styles,” said oneshowing plum richness with Blanc 2011 HHHH judge. “Artifact works well withsome savoury elements. $17 Hardys Nottage Hill Pungent fragrances with this variety,” said another. South Eastern Australia delicate floral notes and a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc long, harmonious palate with McWilliam’s 2011 HHH very good flavour intensity and Hanwood Estate A clean, crisp and refreshing richness. $9.99 Chardonnay 2009 HHHH style with vibrant, lemon citrus A long, generous and aromas and flavours. $9.99 Wolf Blass flavoursome chardonnay with Eaglehawk Sauvignon honeyed citrus aromas and Blanc 2012 HHH lemon butter flavours, with Lifted green gooseberry nose some interesting funkiness. $9 and nicely textured palate with slightly tropical flavours. $8.99 Lindeman’s Bin 65 Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Crisp, fleshy wine with stylish, creamy, varietal fruit. Oak a little dominant with some good lees expression. $6124 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

regional tastingMcWilliam’s Inheritance OTHER Buller Beverford Hardys Nottage Hill SouthChardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 RED VARIETALS Durif 2010 HHH Eastern Australia CabernetPure peach/pear nose and & BLENDS A very stylish wine with Shiraz 2010 HHHHsubtle complexity on the palate lovely savouriness to the A bright, dense wine withwith intriguing fruity characters 8 TASTED nose and complex, richness blackberry aromas edged with- very varietal. $5 6 AWARDED of flavours. $13 dried herb notes and showingCasella Wines Yellow Tail some richness of varietal fruitChardonnay 2011 HHH The judges found this a really MERLOT & BLENDS on the fleshy palate. $9.99Good commercial appeal with solid class with Mediterranean Jacob’s Creek Southhoneyed citrus fruit and nicely varietals having a great future 5 TASTED Eastern Australia Cabernetintegrated, sweet vanilla oak. $9 here. These varietals like a 1 AWARDED Merlot 2010 HHH1/2Hardys Nottage Hill warmer climate! “Don’t grow merlot in inland Minty, leafy capsicum-like noseSouth Eastern Australia regions,” was one judge’s advice. and a minty, red berry varietalChardonnay 2011 HHH 919 Wines Durif fruit palate - still very fresh andDusty, floral lemon nose and 2010 HHHH1/2 Deakin Estate flavoursome. $8interestingly delicate palate Very dark, dense wine with inky Merlot 2010 HHHwith appealing nuttiness. $9.99 intensity to the nose and a slight Bright and light with aromas Queen Adelaide SouthQuarisa 30 Mile doughy element, and offering a of plums and cherries, and Eastern Australia CabernetChardonnay 2011 HHH lovely mouthful of sweet, rich chocolate cake-like flavours. $10 Merlot 2010 HHHBig, buttery, old-fashioned style; and complex flavours with a big, “Some careful winemakingpineapple and melon fruit with long, tannin structure. $49 CABERNET here,” agreed the judges.powerful, creamy oak. $9.99 BLENDS Showing developing chocolaty 919 Wines Tempranillo aromas and a classic cabernetDeakin Estate 2010 HHHH 8 TASTED palate. $7.99Chardonnay 2011 HHH Spicy oak-derived aromas and 4 AWARDEDVery drinkable wine - smells intense, spicy prune flavours Some nice blends here offeringof guavas, tastes of citrus and with grippy tannins. Needs great value.melons with an oily finish $10 some bottle age. “A good Shot in the Dark CabernetSlippery Fish South effort,” agreed the judges. $40 Shiraz 2010 HHHHEastern Australia A lovely concoction ofChardonnay 2009 HHH 919 Wines Touriga cherries, mint, currants andPowerful secondary 2011 HHH1/2 roasted capsicum elementscharacters on the nose and Violet-like hues with aromas of with supporting oak and gooddeveloping buttery nutty rose petals and hints of licorice. tannin length. $9.99palate. Drink now. $4 Stylish, aromatic fruit palate; good peppery length. $38 Cirami Estate Montepulciano 2011 HHH A savoury, meaty style. Dark cherry fragrances and spicy plum flavours. “Yummy complexity.” $18 Quarisa Johnny Q Petite Verdot 2010 HHH A vibrant, fruit-driven style with aromas and flavours reminiscent of blackberry nip liqueur. $11.99Matthew Pick Eric Semmler JUDGESYalumba winemaker for Proprietor of 919 WineOxford Landing brand. Company. Formerly winemaker Dave MatthewsPreviously winemaker for the Hardy Wine Company. Regional Chief Winemakerfor Leo Buring, Yaldara Previously with Brown for Lindemans Winesand Leasingham with Brothers and Auldstone in Karadoc (Victoria).two vintages in Austria. Cellars. Has spent eight years Previously winemaker withJudge at the Adelaide as fortified winemaker for Penfolds and Rosemount.Hills and Griffith wine Hardys. Associate judge at Judge at Cowra, Adelaideshows. Associate at Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and and Canberra wine showsBarossa and Clare. Riverland shows. and last year at the Los Angeles wine show. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 125

RIVER REGIONSCABERNET Shot in the Dark ShirazSAUVIGNON Petite Syrah 2011 HHHH Dark cherry, chocolate nose9 TASTED and a rich, ripe and fleshy cool climate, plum fruit palate5 AWARDED with a slight confectionery-like element. $6.90The 2010s are showing somenice ageing potential. One Lindeman’s Bin 50excellent 2009 showing what Shiraz 2010 HHHcan be achieved in the region. A good wine with vibrant, floral aromas and generous,Hardys Nottage Hill mouthfilling, raspberry Buller Beverford GoldSouth Eastern Australia flavours. $6 Botrytis SemillonCabernet Sauvignon 2010 (375ml) HHHHH2009 HHHH1/2 Hardys Nottage Hill An elegant and stylish wine withVerging on brick red but still South Eastern Australia intense and very lifted citrus andvibrant and fresh for its age, Shiraz 2010 HHH apricot fruit aromas. Palate is anwith lovely blackberry-like Light, fresh, red plum fruit attractive amalgam of citrus andrichness to the nose and a and subtle use of oak. Good stonefruit flavours with obvioussimple but enjoyable chocolaty commercial appeal. $9.99 botrytis characters. $21.95palate with licorice and 919 Wines Classictobacco. $9.99 Mirabella Shiraz 2009 HHH Tawny NV HHHH1/2 Developing savoury wine with Attractive, stylish, amber, classicQuarisa 30 Mile Cabernet Queen Adelaide South dark berry fruit and resinous tawny with the spirit and oakSauvignon 2010 HHH Eastern Australia Cabernet oak complexity. Drink now. $17 sitting on top of some lovely,Red fruit and oak aromas and Sauvignon 2010 HHH buttery, Christmas pudding-likeattractive, berry flavours. Oak Developing savoury aromas MOSCATO characters. Soft in the mouthprovides sweet, toasty mid- with a sweet red berry fruit with a clean, warm finish. $25palate. $9.99 palate that shows hints of cola- 6 TASTED 919 Wines PaleSt Andrews Imperial like characters. $7.99 1 AWARDED Dry Apera NV HHHH1/2Reserve South Eastern A good example of an aperitifAustralia Cabernet SHIRAZ & BLENDS One good example showing style. Bright, nutty, green appleSauvignon 2010 HHH vibrancy and varietal definition. nose and very fresh, crisp andSweet, rich, cabernet fruit here 19 TASTED Too many were either over- invigorating crunchy apple palatewith coffee notes on the nose 4 AWARDED sweet or over developed. with good flavour intensity. $28and a long, soft palate. $6 919 Wines VintageMcWilliam’s Hanwood Disappointing! The warmer Buller Beverford 2009 HHHHEstate Cabernet regions should produce a Moscato 2011 HHH Complex Portuguese style.Sauvignon 2009 HHH much more consistent range Refreshingly bright lemon sorbet Smells of plums and chocolateA pristine, clean wine with than shown here. “Crops are aromas and flavours. Good acid/ truffles. Tight, bright palate, somesavoury leafy fruit, supporting perhaps over produced and too residual sugar balance. $13 marzipan characters developingoak and a minty lift. $9 much tannin added to some of and warming spirit. $50 these wines,” said one judge. SWEET & 919 Wines Classic FORTIFIED Topaque NV HHH1/2 STAR RATINGS  An attractive, young classic 8 TASTED with aged toffee aromas andThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 6 AWARDED generous, developing flavoursexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. with tea-leaf notes. $38All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Excellent class of sweet 919 Wines Classicprofessionals and are compared in peer wines and fortifieds. Should Muscat HHH1/2classes by three judges. be more of it! A good example of a classicCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Aussie muscat with its floral,a major mail-order business. raisined aromas and long andCD Cellar door price. luscious fruit cake flavours. $38CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).126 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

UniqUe AUstrAliAnwine toUr for trAdesouth Australia has been regarded Australia’s ‘wine state’ formore than 150 years. it produces roughly half of the nation’swine, both by value and by volume, and is home to the vastmajority of its iconic, high-end wines.over the last weekend of february each year, the world-class Adelaide Convention Centre,more than 150 wineries from 12 regions located in the Adelaide Central Business districtaround south Australia come together for the by the picturesque river torrens is closehighly successful Cellar door wine festival at to a range of international hotels, Adelaidethe Adelaide Convention Centre. international airport and public transport.it is a unique opportunity for anyone in the if you have your eyes onwine business to meet winemakers, discuss Australian wine, the Cellarstyles, blends and vintages, and sample door wine festival tour isthe best – all under one roof. for those not to be missed.wishing to grow their knowledge of Australianwine, or their wine portfolios, no other For more information on tradeevent in Australia showcases such a large opportunities or to request a fullrepresentation. brochure of this package, contact:for the first time in 2013, an exclusive 7-day Giovanna Toldi,tour for the international wine trade is being Marketing Managerorganised to coincide with the festival. [email protected] will also: +61 8 8210 6720 www.cellardoorfestival.com• attend a specially-designed wine masterclass by winestate magazine’s Book and pay 30% deposit by Ceo Peter simic, a highly respected wine September 30 and receive a connoisseur and judge 10% discount on the full price. Numbers are strictly limited and• exclusive opportunity to network at the the tour is open to wine trade only. festival directly with winemakers and establish valuable business contacts• attend a unique tasting in the dining room exclusive to Members of the Parliament of south Australia• visit the home of world-famous labels including wolf Blass, Penfold’s and Jacob’s Creek.sAtC sAtC sAtCfacebook.com/CellarDoorWineFestival twitter.com/@CellarDoorFest www.cellardoorfestival.com

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHAWKE’S BAYNATIONAL FOCUS combined with a glass or two of Black Barn The experienced team under chef David wine. All the wines here are estate grown Griffiths (ex Vinnie’s and Terroir) makes allBLACK Barn Bistro is a Hawke’s Bay and several are available only at the cellar its own bread, pasta and pastries daily,favourite that has garnered national door. Black Barn also offers 14 different while the wine list combines Hawke’s Bayattention, including being named joint properties for nightly rental – ranging from stars along with imports from Spain and Italy.winner of the award for best New vineyard retreats to beach hideaways. All Around 20 are available by the glass. TheZealand winery restaurant last year with have luxury furnishings, bedding, fabrics, starters feature rustic, warming dishes likeCanterbury’s Pegasus Bay. Open for kitchenware and amenities, and range minestrone with seasonal vegetables, tomatolunches, Black Barn Bistro is surrounded from an eight-bedroom mansion to a two broth and aioli bruschetta, or pork terrineby vines – in summer a table on the bedroom, turn-of-the-century cottage in with bread-and-butter pickles, Dijon mustardveranda offers delightful vistas as far as the heart of the vineyard. The restaurant and sourdough. Other choices range fromthe eye can see. There is also a vine-clad and surrounds are also the venue for the spaghetti with clams and pesto to risotto withcourtyard that is popular in warmer months. Hawke’s Bay Growers’ Market on Saturday braised duck, cavalo nero, currants and pine mornings throughout summer. The market nuts to lamb ribs braised with lentils, fresola, season opens with the new season’s shallots and Habanero mustard. Mister D asparagus, strawberries and artichokes, is open daily from 7.30am-4.30pm and for and finishes as summer comes to an end dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturdays. with stone fruits, peppers and beans. You’ll find it at 47 Tennyson St, Napier; phone There also are stalls selling fresh baked (06) 835 5022. www.mistd.co.nz. breads, locally roasted coffee, flowers, meat, pickles and olive oils. Black Barn CROWNING GLORY Vineyards is on Black Barn Rd, RD12 Havelock North. The bistro is open for lunch THE CROWN Hotel, overlooking the Wednesday to Sunday and dinner is served waterfront, is one of Napier’s chicest Friday evenings (three courses for $60); accommodation addresses. A combination phone (06) 877 7985. www.blackbarn.com. of the old and the new in the fashionableHead chef Terry Lowe is an enthusiastic LOYAL LOCAL FOLLOWING enclave of Ahuriri, just a five-minute drivepromoter of local produce and his menu from the city centre, The Crown offers threechanges with the seasons. The food here MISTER D only opened in May but has different room styles with the Art Deco-styleis serious and thoughtfully created. Think already attracted a loyal local following in suites in the original heritage-listed, 1932starters like Manuka smoked fish terrine Napier. The bar/cafe and restaurant, open hotel building appealing to those with alayered with new potatoes and served for breakfast, lunch and dinner, describes sense of history. The newer four-storeywith capers and salsa verde, or maybe itself as “a little bit country and a little bit accommodation complex features studiosfield and oyster mushrooms lightly pan- rock ’n’ roll”. It specialises in local produce and suites with ocean views and modernfried on toasted brioche with foie gras served in an unfussy way, accompanied by furnishings, including private decks,butter and pancetta crumbs. Mains may an impressively comprehensive wine list.include twice-cooked free-range pork bellywith chilli pineapple salsa, sesame bokchoy, kumara and ginger mash and Asianbroth, or baked fish wrapped in bananaleaf with Thai basil, ginger, garlic paste,lemongrass and kaffir lime rice. There isalso an impressive selection of dessertsand cheeses. “I try to use as much regionalproduce as I can, and Hawke’s Bay hasreally grown as a food producer,” saidLowe. Lunch here – the complex is justfive minutes from Havelock North – can be128 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

travelbriefs CHANGING OF THE GUARD Tuesday to Saturday. High tea is served on the last Sunday of each month. 199 THERE HAS been a changing of the guard Meeanee Rd, Napier; phone (06) 844 8866, at The Old Church, one of Hawke’s Bay www.theoldchurch.co.nz. most popular restaurants. The Old Church, built in 1863, is now owned and managed TRAVEL IN STYLE by Melanie Alderton and Richard Highnam, who was formerly head chef at Auckland hot SO YOU feel like doing a Hawke’s Bay vineyard spot Kermadec before landing in Napier in tour in style? Or engaging your inner rap star? 2011. He’s handling the pans, she runs front of How about being driven around in a stretch house. Dinner at this magical venue is highly limo or Hummer? Bluewater Limo Hire, based recommended; with fairy lights and candles at the Bluewater Hotel in Ahuriri, is able to transforming a lounge and dining area, with cater for winery or sightseeing tours, and canunderfloor heating and i-Pod docking high ceilings and wooden floors that have arrange sparkling wines, beers and fingerstations, along with “gourmet” mini bars. long been favourites with locals. Starters here foods to enjoy while you are on the road. TheThere also are four luxury apartments; include goat cheese and beetroot salad with Bluewater fleet includes a Mercedes-Benzeach with either two or three bedrooms and fennel and walnut dressing; sashimi of Saku E-Klasse limousine, a classic stretched Lincolnaccommodation includes a DVD/CD player tuna with pickled daikon, sesame seeds, Krystal limousine and the party special, a 9mand LCD TV with satellite channels. Milk and micro coriander or the hearty confit rabbit and stretch Hummer H2 that can seat up to 14Honey Restaurant, separately owned but black pudding terrine with gewurztraminer adults and has leather seating and a discopart of the same complex, has a menu with jelly, apple and horseradish, and toasted theme (along with DVD player and power CD).an Italian accent (chef Paolo Pancotti is from brioche. Mains may include roasted black You won’t travel incognito – but this would beMilan). He and owner Sean Burns also have angus beef fillet with truffled potato puree, perfect if you want to make a statement. Theopened a pizza takeaway, Pizza Pazzi, next shallots and oyster mushrooms; wild venison fleet is basedat 10West Quay, Ahuriri, Napier;door. The Crown Hotel is on the corner of loin with fig and chestnut tart, braised red phone 021 433 624. www.bluewaterlimos.Bridge St and Hardinge Rd, Ahuriri; phone cabbage and spiced berry gel or maybe co.nz. Alternatively, try a supertrike tour with(06)833 8300.www.thecrownnapier.com.nz. seafood bouillabaisse with seared salmon, Vic Jennings and his 5700cc V8 Chevrolet scallop, white fish, saffron aioli and baby supertrike. The supertrike is designed toASK A LOCAL carrots. There is an extensive wine list with cater for all ages and has disability access. a good selection of choices by the glass, Pre-designed tailored tours last from 30IT IS ALWAYS a good idea to ask locals for several star names and champagnes along minutes to two hours. Phone (06) 833 6946.recommendations; and the Hawke’s Bay with local labels like Brookfields, Clearview www.supertrike.co.nz.region is fortunate to have so many “name” Estate, Moana Park, Vidal and Sacred Hill.wineries offering tastings. Elephant Hill, Lunch is served at The Old Church Restaurant Above: The Old Church exterior and dining area.Clearview, Craggy Range, Trinity Hill, Mission and Bar Wednesday-Sunday, and dinner Opposite page. One of Black Barn’s property loungeEstate, Black Barn and Te Mata are on most rooms and outdoor fire.lists, along with Askerne, Stonecroft and CJPask – but there are rather fewer choices upthe road in Gisborne. Among the most popularis family-owned Bushmere Estate; famous forits degustation dinners – and long, summerlunches. The regular degustation, featuringsix courses, is matched to Bushmere Estatewines, while the cellar door and restaurantare open throughout the summer months only(closed May-September except Saturdayafternoon tasting sessions). Bushmere Estateis at 166 Main Rd, Matawhero, Gisborne;phone (06) 868 9317. www.bushmere.com. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 129

157 TASTED123 AWARDEDH AW K E ’ S B AYA memorable tasting, reflecting the standout quality of Church Road Reserve Trinity Hill by JohnHawke’s Bay’s whites and reds from the late-ripening 2010 Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Hancock Hawkes Baygrowing season which climaxed with a notably sunny, warm 2010 HHHHH Chardonnay (Black Label)and dry autumn. Chardonnay, viognier, cabernet sauvignon, Classic regional style with a 2010 HHHH1/2merlot and syrah were the stars. Proving the region’s nutty, complex bouquet. Very Elegant, youthful wine, finelyversatility, the judges also found some impressive sparkling fragrant, generous and savoury, poised, crisp and slightlywine, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, arneis, sauvignon gris, with impressive weight on the minerally with a subtleverdelho, sweet wine, malbec, grenache and tempranillo, palate, deep stonefruit flavours seasoning of oak and a toasty, and a creamy-smooth texture. mealy complexity. Lively andPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Slightly oaky (French, 31 per lingering. $34.95 (A, UK)Wines available in export markets are shown as cent new), with lots of “bells Babich Irongate(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). and whistles”, but extremely Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay appealing and rated highly by all 2011 HHHHSPARKLING Trinity Hill ‘H’ judges. $40 (A) Ageworthy, elegant wine with Blanc de Blancs NV HHH mouthfilling body, strong,4 TASTED Crisp, light and lively, Sacred Hill Riflemans peachy, biscuity flavours,2 AWARDED chardonnay-based style Hawkes Bay Chardonnay finely integrated oak and a dry, with lemon/apple flavours 2010 HHHHH creamy-smooth finish. DrinkA small class featuring two and some yeasty, biscuity Fragrant, complex bouquet. now or cellar. $35 (A, UK)bottle-fermented chardonnays complexity. $29.95 (A, UK) Fleshy and finely textured with Church Road McDonaldwhich were clearly superior concentrated stonefruit and Series Hawke’s Bayto a pair of sparkling, tank- CHARDONNAY nut flavours, slightly buttery Chardonnay 2011 HHHHfermented sauvignon blancs. and toasty notes, and a long, Weighty and fleshy with 31 TASTED tight finish. Plenty of new strong, ripe stonefruit flavours, 26 AWARDED oak in evidence but still very barrel-ferment complexity, and harmonious. $70 (UK, US) good texture and length. Rated Chardonnay is the region’s Villa Maria Single Vineyard well by all judges. $33 white-wine mainstay, so it’s no Keltern Hawke’s Bay Coopers Creek SV surprise this class performed Chardonnay 2011 HHHHH The Limeworks very strongly. Most of the Very elegant wine with a complex Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay five-star wines flowed from the bouquet, including a whiff of 2011 HHHH settled, dry, 2010 harvest, but gun smoke. Finely poised and Biscuity, buttery bouquet with the wetter 2011 vintage still tightly structured with beautifully ripe fruit flavours on the palate, yielded several four-star and concentrated, citrusy, mealy hints of butterscotch, nuts and above wines. flavours mingled with subtle toffee, and impressive richness. toasty oak. Best mid-2013+. $37 Strongly oaked (American and Askerne Reserve French) but delicious young andSquawking Magpie Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay priced sharply. $20 (A, UK)Hawke’s Bay SQM Blanc 2010 HHHHHde Blanc 2010 HHHH Classic regional style – fleshy,Elegant, chardonnay-based toasty (French oak, 50 per centstyle, fresh and vivacious with new), nutty and concentratedcitrusy, yeasty, nutty flavours, with generous, sweet-fruitlively acidity, and excellent flavours, peachy, slightly buttery,complexity and harmony. $29.95 dry and complex. Slightly “old school”, according to one judge, but creamy and lingering. $30130 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

regional tastingCoopers Creek Swamp Babich Family Estates CJ Pask Roy’s Hill Clearview ReserveReserve Hawke’s Bay Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay SauvignonChardonnay 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 2011 HHH Blanc 2011 HHHHYouthful, complex wine, Ripely scented, fresh, citrusy Fruit-driven style, fresh, crisp Enjoyed by all judges, thissavoury and concentrated. and dry with mouthfilling body, and lemony. Lacks complexity mouthfilling, complex wineFlintly, nutty and slightly a subtle seasoning of oak and but offers plenty of drink-young was grown at Te Awanga andcreamy with excellent texture very good depth. $25 (UK) appeal. $15 (A, UK, US) barrel-fermented. Sweet-and length. $30 (UK, US) Clearview Reserve fruited and slightly creamy Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay with good acid spine, it is richCrossroads Winemakers Elegant, youthful wine with tight, Chardonnay 2010 HHH and ripe with finely integratedCollection Hawke’s Bay citrusy, slightly biscuity flavours Fresh, vibrantly fruity wine oak and a long finish. $25Chardonnay 2011 HHHH and a mealy, gently nutty finish. with citrusy aromas, a subtle Osawa Prestige CollectionTight, elegant wine, citrusy and Needs cellaring. $39 oak influence (French, 40 Hawke’s Bay Sauvignongently oaked (French 15 per Crossroads Milestone per cent new) and moderate Blanc 2010 HHHHcent new) with fresh acidity Series Hawke’s Bay complexity. $28 (A, UK) Weighty and ripe withand a long finish. $35 (A) Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 concentrated, slightly butteryEsk Valley Winemakers Fully barrel-fermented style with Mills Reef Reserve flavours, and indigenous yeastsReserve Hawke’s Bay a mealy bouquet, strong, citrusy, Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay and new French oak addingChardonnay 2010 HHHH slightly creamy flavours showing 2010 HHH complexity. Soft, rich and readyTight, elegant and complex good complexity and a fresh, Yellow hued with a slightly to roll. $43with youthful, citrusy, mealy crisp finish. Fine value. $19 (A) buttery bouquet. Citrusy, Trinity Hillflavours and good harmony Sacred Hill Halo flavoursome and slightly toasty Hawke’s Bay Sauvignonand length. “Easy to overlook,” Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay but showing considerable Blanc 2011 HHH1/2according to one judge. $31 2011 HHH1/2 development. $24.95 (A, UK, US) Ripely scented and mouthfillingMission Jewelstone Moderately complex style with sweet-fruit characters ofChardonnay 2009 HHHH with mouthfilling body, fresh Mission Reserve Hawke’s peaches and passionfruit, a hint ofFragrant bouquet, figgy, creamy grapefruit and peach flavours, Bay Chardonnay 2011 HHH herbs, and very good freshness,and mealy with a rich, layered and a subtle, nutty oak influence. Full-bodied, peachy and creamy vibrancy and depth. Enjoyed by allpalate and a lingering finish. Finely balanced with drink-young with some barrel-ferment judges. $19.95 (A, UK)Maturing gracefully. $39 appeal. $26 (UK, US) complexity and a well-rounded Vidal Reserve SeriesOsawa Prestige Villa Maria Reserve finish. $26 Organic Hawke’s BayCollection Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Sauvignon BlancChardonnay 2010 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay 2011 HHH1/2Fragrant, mouthfilling, fleshy Elegant, youthful wine, still Chardonnay 2010 HHH Fresh, crisp, full-bodied stylewine with a creamy texture and very tight and crisp with Fresh, medium-bodied style, with ripe melon/lime aromasgenerous, ripe, peachy, slightly lemony, slightly limey flavours sweet-fruited with vibrant, citrusy, and flavours, showing verybuttery and nutty flavours. $45 and a flinty streak. Subtle and gently oaked flavours. Very easy good vibrancy and length. $23Vidal Reserve Series refined with a long finish but to enjoy. $19.95 (A, UK) Church Road McDonaldHawke’s Bay Chardonnay needs time. $32 Series Hawke’s Bay2011 HHHH Church Road Hawke’s Bay SAUVIGNON Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHHSavoury, tight-knit, elegant Chardonnay 2011 HHH BLANC Fleshy, dry style, mostly grownstyle with good complexity and Bright yellow, mouthfilling, in the relatively cool, inlanda lingering finish. Minerally and peachy, nutty wine (barrel 10 TASTED Matapiro district and partly (18slightly flinty. $23 fermented in French and 8 AWARDED per cent) barrel-fermented. Hungarian oak). Full-flavoured Ripely flavoured with grapefruit and dry with some early A strong class in which the top and peach fruit characters, and development showing. $29 (A) wines offered strong, vibrant, gentle, nutty, smoky notes CJ Pask Declaration tropical fruit flavours in fruit- adding complexity. $32.99 Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay driven and oak-aged styles. 2011 HHH JUDGES Youthful, citrusy, mealy wine Askerne Hawke’s Bay with fresh acidity. Some creamy Sauvignon Blanc oak notes with good balance 2011 HHHH and potential. $35 (A, UK, US) Very fresh and lively with ripe, sweet-fruit flavours, some greener, herbal notes, a minerally streak, a touch of complexity and good intensity. Great value at $16.Michael Cooper Nick Picone Phil BothwellWinestate’s New Zealand Senior Auckland Phil is a senior judgeeditor is the author of the winemaker for Villa Maria in New Zealand wineinternationally acclaimed Wine since 2008, Nick grew up competitions and is aAtlas of New Zealand and in Hawke’s Bay, where he former National Winethe annual Michael Cooper’s worked his first vintage Ambassador for PernodBuyer’s Guide to New Zealand at Esk Valley in 1997 and Ricard NZ. He recentlyWines. In the 2004 New studied for his Bachelor of launched/formed a wineYear Honours, Michael was Wine Science degree. consultancy and in-appointed an Officer of the house training company,New Zealand Order of Merit Vintelligent SolutioNZ.for services to wine writing. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 131

H AW K E ’ S B AYChurch Road Greyrock Hawke’s Bay Cypress Terraces Hawke’s ARNEISHawke’s Bay Sauvignon Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Bay Viognier 2010 HHHHBlanc 2011 HHH Fresh, dryish style with plenty Fleshy and rich with fresh 3 TASTEDMouthfilling, ripe and vibrantly of citrusy flavour, hints of flavours of peaches and 3 AWARDEDfruity with a touch of complexity lychees and spices, and crisp apricots. Strongly oaked (French,from a small percentage of acidity keeping things lively. 40 per cent new) but weighty A small, strong class, revealingbarrel fermentation and a (From Sileni.) $13 (A) and finely textured. $32 Hawke’s Bay’s ability toslightly creamy texture. $29 produce clearly varietal wine Kate Radburnd Sun Kissed Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels from this emerging variety fromC.J. Pask Roy’s Hill Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris Viognier 2010 HHHH north-west Italy.Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon 2010 HHH Mouthfilling and floral with ripeBlanc 2011 HHH Slightly creamy, medium- pear and apricot notes to the Villa Maria Private BinModerately intense style grown bodied wine with fresh, ripe fore. Dry and finely textured Hawke’s Bay Arneisin the Gimblett Gravels and the stonefruit flavours and a with excellent depth and 2011 HHHHcooler, elevated Crownthorpe rounded, finely balanced finish. harmony. $34.95 (A, UK) Fleshy and dry with generousdistrict. Medium-bodied with $20 (A, UK, US) apple and almond flavours,ripe, citrusy, limey flavours, Villa Maria Single Vineyard good varietal definition andslightly creamy notes and a dry, Sileni Cellar Selection Omahu Gravels Hawke’s texture, and a soft, lingeringbalanced finish. $15 (A, UK, US) Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris Bay Viognier 2010 HHHH finish. $22 2011 HHH Mouthfilling, peachy and spicyPINOT GRIS Full-bodied with ripe stonefruit, with a minerally streak and Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels pear and spice flavours barrel-ferment complexity. Richly Arneis 2010 HHH1/210 TASTED showing good varietal character varietal and finely structured with Fleshy, buttery style with8 AWARDED and depth. $20 obvious potential. $32 concentrated, ripe tropical fruit flavours showing goodA good class in which the top Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Babich Family Estates complexity, a strong seasoningwines showed the greater Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Fernhill Viognier 2011 HHH of oak and a rounded, dry finish.intensity and vibrancy achieved by Fleshy and ripe with dryish, Fresh and lively with peachy, Two judges found the woodgrowing aromatic varieties such peachy flavours, hints of apple slightly spicy flavours in a fruit- influence slightly assertive butas pinot gris in Hawke’s Bay’s strudel, quince and ginger, driven style with a crisp, dry praised the wine’s weight andcooler, elevated, inland regions. and good depth. (8 per cent finish. $25 (UK) richness. $34.95 (A, UK) viognier.) $19.95 (A, UK)Church Road McDonald GEWURZTRAMINER Villa Maria CellarSeries Hawke’s Bay Pinot VIOGNIER Selection Hawke’s BayGris 2009 HHHH1/2 5 TASTED Arneis 2011 HHHHarvested at up to 30 brix, this 7 TASTED 3 AWARDED Aromatic, medium-bodieddistinctive wine is a perfumed, 7 AWARDED style, vibrantly fruity with goodbold style (14.7 alc/vol) with A solid class in which the depth of peach, honeysuckleplentiful sweetness (48 grams/ A small but notably strong class best wines flowed from sub- and almond flavours, and a drylitre of residual sugar) and in which most of the wines regions around Hawke’s Bay, finish. $24rich, honeyish, spicy flavours, showed excellent body, flavour proving the region’s suitabilityshowing good complexity. depth and varietal definition. for gewurztraminer. OTHER WHITESGrown at Matapiro, it’s drinkingwell now. $33 Villa Maria Cellar Babich Family Estates 6 TASTED Selection Hawke’s Bay Gimblett Gravels 3 AWARDEDMission Vineyard Viognier 2010 HHHHH GewurztraminerSelection Hawke’s Bay Richly varietal wine, fresh and 2011 HHH1/2 Clearview ReservePinot Gris 2010 HHHH lively with mouthfilling body, Fleshy, clearly varietal wine with Sauvignon Gris 2011 HHHHThis is a single-vineyard wine ripe apricot characters, a subtle peachy, spicy, gingery flavours, Weighty, very fresh and livelygrown at Mangatahi. Weighty seasoning of oak and a lasting showing very good depth and a with strong citrus, pear andand rich, it has strong, ripe, finish. Slightly nutty and smoky floral bouquet. $25 (UK) slight almond flavours, a touch ofslightly honeyed flavours and a with good complexity. $32 complexity - from fermentationdry, rounded finish. $22 Mission Hawke’s Bay and ageing in old French oak Church Road Reserve Gewurztraminer casks - and an appetisingly crisp,Church Road Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Viognier 2011 HHH1/2 dry finish. $27Pinot Gris 2011 HHH1/2 2010 HHHH Spicy, gingery, slightly honeyedMouthfilling, off-dry style with Fleshy and rich with substantial aromas and flavours. Richly Esk Valley Hawke’s Baystrong, fresh, peachy flavours, body, deep stonefruit flavours scented and oily in a forward Verdelho 2011 HHHHhints of honey and ginger, and a strong seasoning of style, drinking well now. Fine Fresh, crisp and vibrantly fruityand very good harmony and oak. Powerful, soft, barrel- value at $18. with ripe, citrus and stonefruitmouthfeel. $29 (A) fermented style, toasty, spicy flavours, juicy and youthful, and and complex. One judge scored Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay a slightly off-dry finish. EnjoyedCrossroads Milestone it five stars. $40 Gewürztraminer by all judges. $24Series Hawke’s Bay Pinot 2011 HHHGris 2011 HHH1/2 Coopers Creek SV Chalk Fleshy with good depth of Mission Hawke’s BayFull-bodied and strongly Ridge Hawke’s Bay lychee and spice flavours, a Riesling 2011 HHHvarietal, this full-flavoured wine Viognier 2011 HHHH slightly creamy texture and a Lemon-scented, medium-dryis peachy and well-rounded Floral, mouthfilling and creamy- floral bouquet. $29 style, fresh, lively, grapey andwith hints of quinces and textured with vibrant peach and finely balanced. Not intensehoney, and very good ripeness, apricot flavours to the fore, a but already very approachable.depth and harmony. Enjoyed by subtle oak influence and lovely $18 (A, UK)all judges. $19 (A) varietal focus. $20132 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

regional tastingROSÉ Villa Maria Cellar MERLOT & BLENDS Church Road Hawke’s Selection Hawke’s Bay Bay Merlot Cabernet1 TASTED Grenache 2010 HHHH 27 TASTED Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1 AWARDED This is an important red – the 22 AWARDED Densely coloured, fragrant country’s first grenache set to blend of merlot (59 per cent),Lime Rock Central Hawke’s be produced from one vintage An outstanding class, reflecting cabernet sauvignon (31 perBay Pinot Rosé 2011 HHH to the next. Full-coloured”, merlot’s consistently strong cent), malbec (8 per cent)Pink, pale red hue. Strawberry it is fleshy with good density of performance in Hawke’s Bay and cabernet franc (2% perand spice flavours, in an off-dry plum, spice and nut flavours, and the quality of the 2009 cent), matured in French andstyle that should go well with some “wild, medicinal” notes, and 2010 vintages. The panel Hungarian barriques (29 perfood. Finely balanced, fresh and and a silky, lingering finish. found several excellent four-star cent new). Spicy bouquetsummery. $21 (A) Very drinkable. $32 wines in the sub-$25 category. with a hint of eucalypt, oak complexity and excellentOTHER REDS Crossroads Church Road McDonald concentration. “Very likeable,” Winemakers Collection Series Hawke’s Bay Merlot enthused one judge. $29 (A)7 TASTED Hawke’s Bay Cabernet 2009 HHHHH Esk Valley Hawke’s7 AWARDED Franc 2010 HHH1/2 Built to last, this is an inky-hued, Bay Merlot Cabernet Deeply coloured with strong, powerful Gimblett Gravels red Sauvignon MalbecA small but strong class with brambly, plummy, leafy flavours, with highly concentrated plum, 2010 HHHHmalbec and tempranillo to the showing some savoury cassis and nut flavours, a strong Fragrant, fleshy red with greatfore, as usual, but grenache also complexity. Fleshy and layered French oak influence (42 per drinkability. Dark with strong,starting to carve out a niche. with fine-grained tannins. cent new) and good tannin ripe plum, spice and nut Drinking well now. $35 (A) support. Top value. $33 flavours, gentle tannins andVilla Maria Reserve excellent harmony. $24Hawke’s Bay Malbec Askerne Hawke’s Bay Villa Maria Reserve Mills Reef Elspeth Hawke’s2009 HHHHH Cabernet Franc 2010 HHH Hawke’s Bay Merlot Bay Merlot 2009 HHHHNo debate here – all judges Slightly developed and leafy 2010 HHHHH Concentrated with deep colourwent straight to five stars. with some fruit sweetness Dark, purple-flushed red with and rich, ripe plum, spice andThe colour is bold and inky; and coffee bean and dried herb mouthfilling body and highly fruit cake flavours. Slightlythe palate concentrated with flavours. Ready. $20 concentrated blackcurrant, jammy and supple with gentledeep blackcurrant, plum and plum and spice flavours. Plush, tannins. $45 (A, UK, US)spice flavours, and none of the PINOT NOIR rich, vibrantly fruity wine with Sacred Hillrusticity that can detract from good tannin structure and a Hawke’s Bay Merlotmalbec. Strapping, rich red with 8 TASTED long finish. $50 Cabernet 2010 HHHHbig tannins, sweet fruit and “a 3 AWARDED Merlot-based blend (4 perlong, long” finish. $60 Sacred Hill Brokenstone cent cabernet sauvignon) with A mediocre line-up with 2009 HHHH1/2 deep colour, strong plum,Villa Maria Reserve several wines showing Bold, fragrant, merlot-based (66 herb and spice flavours, aHawke’s Bay Grenache green, stalky characters but per cent) blend with smaller gentle seasoning of oak, and2007 HHHH1/2 the leading trio proving that portions of cabernet sauvignon, fairly firm tannins. ExcellentGenerous red, described by the region’s cooler, elevated syrah and cabernet franc. harmony and drinkability.one judge as “Rhone style”. districts can produce attractive, Deep, youthful colour with Good value. $23 (UK, US)Deep, bright colour with sweet- clearly varietal pinot noirs. concentrated, very ripe fruit cake, Trinity Hill The Gimblettfruit delights, nutty oak, hints plum and blackcurrant flavours, a 2009 HHHHof berries, spices and leather, Flying Mouton Hawke’s slightly creamy texture, and firm Powerful blend based onsupple tannins, and loads of Bay Pinot Noir 2009 HHH underlying tannins. $80 merlot (38 per cent) andpersonality. $60 From Osawa, this is a full- cabernet sauvignon (37 per coloured, generous wine with Villa Maria Reserve cent) with smaller portions ofCoopers Creek SV Saint plum and slight herb flavours, Hawke’s Bay Merlot cabernet franc, petit verdot andJohn Hawke’s Bay Malbec showing some savoury 2009 HHHH1/2 malbec. Boldly coloured with2010 HHHH complexity, and a rounded Youthful,with deep, crimson deep blackcurrant, spice andStylish, crimson hued red with finish. $35 (A) colour, a fragrant bouquet nut flavours, hints of leathersweet-fruit delights and strong, of ripe fruit, coffee and and coffee, good complexityvibrant, plummy flavours, very Osawa Prestige Collection dried herbs, and a strong and a firm foundation of tannin.fresh and supple. Enjoyed by all Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir seasoning of French oak. Rich, $34.95 (A, UK)judges. $28 (US) 2010 HHH concentrated and vibrantly Vidal Reserve Series Full ruby with a slightly porty fruity with firm tannins and Hawke’s Bay MerlotTrinity Hill Gimblett bouquet (according to one obvious potential. $50 Cabernet SauvignonGravels Tempranillo judge) and rich, savoury 2010 HHHH2010 HHHH flavours, braced by firm tannins. Mills Reef Reserve Fleshy and supple with rich,Densely coloured and fruit- Plummy and leathery with a Hawke’s Bay Merlot berryish fruit flavours to thepacked with concentrated touch of “forest floor”. $46 Malbec 2010 HHHH fore, a hint of dried herbs andblackcurrant, plum and spice Boldly coloured blend of merlot oak-derived complexity. Soft,flavours. Fleshy, ripe and soft Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay (66 per cent), malbec (30 per generous red, well-priced. $23with good complexity and hints Pinot Noir 2011 HHH cent) and a splash of cabernetof leather, tobacco leaf and Ruby hued and fleshy with franc. Good concentrationcoffee. $34.95 (A, UK) mouthfilling body and fresh, with strong, ripe cassis, spice ripe berry, plum and spice and liquorice flavours. Fleshy, flavours. $23 (A, UK) supple and long. Fine value. $24.95 (A, UK, US) September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 133

H AW K E ’ S B AYTrinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Crossroads Milestone Church Road Reserve Mills Reef ReserveMerlot 2010 HHHH Series Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Hawke’s Bay CabernetExcellent drink-young style with Merlot 2011 HHH Merlot 2009 HHHHH Merlot 2010 HHHdeep colour, medium body and Fleshy, full-coloured red with Dark, highly refined, 50/50 blend Deeply coloured, cabernetconcentrated blackcurrant, plum strong plum, herb and spice of cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon-based blend (55 perand dried herb flavours, fresh, flavours, liquorice and tar merlot, grown in the Redstone cent),with plum, dried herbsmooth and lingering. $23 (A, UK) notes, integrated oak (French Vineyard and Gimblett Gravels, and spice flavours showingCJ Pask Declaration and American) and a firm and matured for 20 months good depth. However, oneMerlot 2007 HHH1/2 finish. $19 (A) in French oak barriques (50 judge described the finishDeep, moderately developed per cent new). Full-bodied as “astringent”; another ascolour. Concentrated with Mission Reserve Hawke’s style with highly concentrated “metallic”. $24.95 (A, UK, US)rich, blackcurrant flavours Bay Merlot 2010 HHH blackcurrant, dried herb, olivestrongly seasoned with nutty Full-coloured with satisfying and nut flavours, and fine- SYRAHoak, and savoury, leathery depth of blackcurrant, herb and grained tannins. $40notes adding complexity. plum flavours, good texture Babich Irongate Cabernet 28 TASTEDReady. $50 (A, UK, US) and some savoury, cedary Merlot Franc 2010 HHHH 20 AWARDEDCoopers Creek Hawke’s complexity. $26 Stylish red from the Irongate A strong class, ranging fromBay Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 Vineyard in the heart of medium-bodied, supple winesHighly attractive style for early Thornbury Hawke’s Bay the Gimblett Gravels. that would appeal to pinot noirenjoyment. Full-coloured, Merlot 2011 HHH Dark, fleshy and complex lovers, to floral, dense, firmlymouthfilling and supple, with Fresh, full-coloured, medium with concentrated, vibrant structured reds capable of long-ripe plum/spice flavours, to full-bodied red with vibrant blackcurrant, dried herb, plum term cellaring.showing some savoury plum/spice flavours, showing and spice flavours, braced Villa Maria Cellarcomplexity, and very good some savoury complexity, and by firm, ripe tannins. Good Selection Hawke’s Baydepth. Great value. $17 (A, UK) a smooth finish. $21 cellaring potential. $35 (UK) Syrah 2010 HHHHHMission Jewelstone Babich The Patriarch Densely coloured, floral andMerlot Cabernet Franc CABERNET 2010 HHH1/2 highly concentrated with2010 HHH1/2 SAUVIGNON Dark, strapping Gimblett Gravels good weight, deep, ripe berry,Fragrant with very good depth & BLENDS blend of merlot, cabernet plum and spice flavours, finelyof plum, spice, herb and olive sauvignon and malbec. Cedary balanced tannins, and real powerflavours. Savoury with plenty 9 TASTED bouquet with concentrated through the palate. A top buy. $32of oak (French, 60 per cent 9 AWARDED plum, spice and dried herbnew) and supple, fine-grained flavours, “meaty” streak from Squawking Magpietannins. $39 (A, UK) An outstanding class that the malbec (20 per cent) and Stoned Crow Hawke’s BaySacred Hill Halo proved yet again that Hawke’s firm tannins. $60 (A, UK) Syrah 2009 HHHHHHawke’s Bay Merlot Bay produces world-class, CJ Pask Declaration Power-packed with dense,Cabernet 2011 HHH1/2 Bordeaux-style reds, combining Cabernet Merlot Malbec youthful colour and loadsFresh, vibrantly fruity red (77 per concentration and finesse - and 2009 HHH1/2 of plummy, spicy flavour.cent merlot) with bold, bright underlined the key, long-term Deeply coloured with a leafy, “Broody”, according to onecolour and strong blackcurrant contribution by Church Road minty, oaky bouquet. Savoury, judge, with tar and licoriceand plum flavours. Medium- and Villa Maria. complex style with a slight lack characters, strong tannins andbodied, soft and silky with drink- of full ripeness (according to two a powerful oak influence.young charm. $26 (UK, US) Villa Maria Reserve judges) but also some generosity One for the cellar. $39.95Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Cabernet and firm tannins. $50 (A, UK, US)The Trinity 2011 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Merlot CJ Pask DeclarationMerlot-predominant blend, 2010 HHHHH Cabernet Merlot Malbecdeeply coloured and fruity with This classy red went straight 2007 HHH1/2fresh, vibrant, plummy flavours to a five-star rating with all Deeply coloured red, maturingand a smooth finish. Lots of judges. Boldly coloured, it is gracefully with concentrateddrink-young appeal. $23 (A, UK) highly concentrated,with dense blackcurrant, dried herb andVilla Maria Cellar blackcurrant, plum and spice nut flavours braced by firmSelection Hawke’s flavours, seasoned with quality tannins. Verging on four stars.Bay Merlot Cabernet French oak. Plush and polished $50 (A, UK, US)Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 with good acidity, strong tannins Coopers Creek SVDeeply coloured with strong and many years ahead. $50 Gimblett Gravelsplum and dried herb flavours, Cabernet Sauvignonseasoned with nutty oak, and Church Road McDonald Merlot 2010 HHHripe, supple tannins. One judge Series Hawke’s Bay Deeply coloured. Plummy,rated it highly. $24 Cabernet Sauvignon spicy flavours and oak-agedCJ Pask 2009 HHHHH complexity in a medium-Declaration Hawke’s Bay Fragrant, complex blend of bodied, slightly leafy style withMerlot 2009 HHH Redstone Vineyard (62 per soft tannins. $28 (UK, US)Fullish colour with good depth cent) and Gimblett Gravels fruit,of spice and dried herb flavours. matured for 18 months in FrenchDrinking well now but slightly oak barriques (35 per cent new).over-priced. $50 (A, UK, US) Dark with concentrated, ripe blackcurrant, dried herb and olive flavours on a bed of fine-grained tannin, and a long, rounded finish. Fine value. $33134 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012



H AW K E ’ S B AYVilla Maria Cypress Terraces Hawke’s CJ Pask Gimblett RoadReserve Hawke’s Bay Bay Syrah 2009 HHHH Syrah 2010 HHHSyrah 2010 HHHHH Floral, lithe and supple red with Light to medium-bodied styleOpaque, very fragrant and deep colour and plum, spice, with spice, herb and slightdense wine, concentrated and licorice and fennel aromas. tomato flavours woven withsilky. Bold blackberry, tar, plum Generous on the palate with fresh acidity. Lacks a bit of fleshand spice flavours, layered and good complexity and silky but shows some complexitylong. $60 tannins. $42 and depth. $20 (A, UK, US)Crossroads Winemakers Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Vidal Reserve Series Crossroads MilestoneCollection Hawke’s Bay Hawkes Bay Syrah Gimblett Gravels Syrah Series Hawke’s BaySyrah 2010 HHHHH 2008 HHHHH 2009 HHHH Syrah 2011 HHHYouthful, refined Gimblett Maturing superbly, this beauty Delicious now with bold, bright Ruby hued with a very pepperyGravels red with power through attracted all the judges. Deep colour, a perfumed bouquet bouquet showing accentuatedthe palate. Dark and fragrant and still youthful in colour, it is and strong, plummy, spicy varietal characters. Medium-with plum, tar and black highly fragrant and concentrated flavours, ripe and smooth. bodied, vibrantly fruity andpepper aromas and flavours, with blackcurrant, cracked Floral and finely textured. $30 supple with a hint of tamarilloconcentrated and tightly pepper, spice and nut flavours, Mills Reef Elspeth Hawke’s and some savoury notes (Frenchstructured. Fine value. $35 (A) deliciously ripe, savoury and Bay Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 oak 14 per cent new). $19 (A) complex. $60 (UK, US) Floral, youthful wine, deeply Mills Reef Elspeth Trust © Tourism New Zealand. Church Road coloured with vibrant plum and Vineyard Syrah 2010 HHH Reserve Hawke’s Bay black pepper flavours, hints of Fresh, vibrant, berrish and Syrah 2010 HHHH1/2 spices and licorice, and fine- peppery with some green, Big, very ripe and savoury grained tannins. Verging on four stalky notes (detected by style, densely coloured with stars. $45 (A, UK, US) two judges) detracting, but rich blackcurrant, plum and Mission Jewelstone also some savoury, cedary spice flavours, and hints of tar Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 complexity and a firm, lingering and fruitcake. Shows excellent Bold and youthful with deep finish. $45 (A, UK, US) complexity, with a silky colour and concentrated Mission Vineyard texture. $40 blackcurrant, plum and Selection Hawke’s Bay spice flavours, showing very Syrah 2010 HHH good ripeness and richness. Floral, full-coloured, medium- However, two judges described bodied style with fresh acidity, it as over-extracted with “hard strong blackcurrant, plum and tannins”. $39 (A, UK, US) slight herb flavours, and silky Mission Reserve Hawke’s tannins. $22 Bay Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 Ti Point Hawke’s Bay Boldly coloured with a Syrah 2011 HHH distinctive bouquet (variously Fleshy with deep colour and described by the judges as generous plum and black “lipstick”or “Elastoplast”) and pepper flavours. Very smooth very good depth of tightly and approachable. $25 structured, blackcurrant, plum Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay and spice flavours. $26 (A, UK) Syrah 2011 HHH Trinity Hill Gimblett Attractive, drink-young style, Gravels Syrah 2011 HHH1/2 full-coloured with fresh, vibrant Deeply coloured and richly varietal plum and black pepper flavours, with violet and spice aromatics, showing good depth, and and strong, fresh plum and black gentle tannins. (4 per cent pepper flavours, braced by firm viognier.) $22.95 (A, UK) tannins. Still very youthful. (2 per cent viognier.) $34.95 (A, UK) SWEET WHITES Cypress Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2010 HHH 1 TASTED Dark, medium-bodied style 1 AWARDED with some rustic notes amidst strong, peppery, plummy Trinity Hill Gimblett flavours, and finely balanced Gravels Noble Viognier tannins. $26 2009 (375ml) HHHHH CJ Pask Declaration Golden, honey-sweet beauty Syrah 2010 HHH with rich, ripe, late harvest fruit Medium-bodied with fresh flavours overlaid with botrytis. plum, spice and pepper Syrupy and oily with apricot flavours, a strong cedary oak and raisin characters, showing influence adding complexity lovely depth and harmony. and some green, herbal notes, $33.95 (A, UK) according to two judges. Pricey. $50 (A, UK, US)136 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

MICHAEL COOPERA strong lineup, featuring outstanding sauvignon blancs Waipara Hills Vidal Legacy Series(from Marlborough and Wairarapa), top-flight pinot Equinox Waipara Valley Hawke’s Baynoirs (from Marlborough and Central Otago) and Pinot Gris 2011 Chardonnay 2010superb examples of pinot gris and sauvignon blanc/ Outstanding dry style, hand- Beautifully poised and youthfulsemillon (from Waipara). The tasting also unearthed picked from the oldest vines wine, hand-picked at fourseveral other excellent pinot noirs from Central Otago, and cool-fermented in old sites and fermented and lees-North Otago and Canterbury. From Hawke’s Bay, the barrels. Full-bodied (14.5 per aged for a year in French oakhighlight was the consistently arresting quality of the cent alc/vol), with vibrant peach, barriques. Smoky bouquet, withnew, flagship Legacy Series from Vidal. lychee and spice flavours, a hint of gunflint. Mouthfilling, showing lovely freshness, refined and tight-knit, withPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. ripeness and depth. Still very peachy, slightly nutty flavours,Wines available in export markets are shown as youthful; open 2014+. $29 showing lovely delicacy and(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Urlar Gladstone richness. Great cellaring Sauvignon Blanc 2011 potential; open 2014+. $50 Weighty, rich, organically- Vidal Legacy Series certified wine from northern Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Pisa Range Estate Wairarapa, with loads of Bay Syrah 2009 Black Poplar Block personality. Partly barrel- Powerful and still very youthful, Pinot Noir 2009 fermented style, fleshy this densely coloured, purple- Powerful, densely packed, and sweet-fruited, with flushed red was matured for 20 savoury Cromwell Basin red, still concentrated, ripe, tropical fruit months in French oak barriques unfolding. Deep and youthful in flavours, a very subtle seasoning (33 per cent new). Notably colour, with generous cherry, of oak, finely balanced acidity concentrated, it has vibrant plum and spice flavours, ripe, and a well-rounded, long finish. cassis, plum and black pepper supple tannins and a long finish. $23 (A, UK, US) flavours, hints of licorice Best drinking 2014+. $49 (A, US) and spice, finely integrated Spy Valley Marlborough oak, firm, ripe tannins andPegasus Bay Sauvignon Vavasour Claudia’s Pinot Noir 2011 a sustained finish. Built forSemillon 2010 Vineyard Awatere Valley A great buy. Beautifully the long haul, it’s well worthClassy, youthful Waipara blend Sauvignon Blanc 2010 scented, this youthful, cellaring to at least 2014. $70of tank-fermented sauvignon Very distinctive, weighty, generous and savoury wineblanc and barrel-fermented unusually complex wine, was hand-picked, fermentedsemillon, from 25-year-old hand-picked, fermented with with indigenous yeasts andvines. Mouthfilling and tight, indigenous yeasts and matured barrel-aged for nine months.with concentrated, tropical fruit for over a year in seasoned Deep ruby, mouthfilling andflavours, gently seasoned with French oak casks. Notably supple, with sweet-fruitnutty oak, good complexity, a powerful, with sweet-fruit delights, strong, ripe cherry/minerally streak and a poised, delights, highly concentrated plum flavours and a hint oflong finish. A top vintage of this tropical fruit flavours and dried herbs, it is complex andlabel and well worth cellaring. excellent mouthfeel and finely textured with a powerful$28 (A, UK, US) texture. Tight, dry, slightly nutty presence. $32 (A, UK, US) and long. $32 (A) September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 137

MICHAEL COOPERVidal Legacy Series Akarua Central Otago Mud House Golden Pasquale Waitaki ValleyGimblett Gravels Hawke’s Pinot Noir 2011 Terraces Vineyard Central Pinot Noir 2010Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Highly refined, savoury Otago Pinot Noir 2010 This rich, finely textured redMerlot 2009 Bannockburn red, ruby hued, Grown at Bendigo, in the from North Otago is alreadyStill unfolding, this is a power- with rich, ripe cherry/plum Cromwell Basin, this fragrant, delicious. Deeply coloured, itpacked blend of cabernet flavours, well-integrated oak weighty wine is highly is savoury, ripe and supple,sauvignon (76 per cent) and and a long finish. A ‘feminine’ expressive in its youth. Full- with rich cherry and driedmerlot (24% per cent), matured style, very graceful, supple and coloured, it is packed with herb flavours, showing goodin French oak barriques (50 per harmonious. $40 (A, UK) fresh, berryish, plummy, spicy complexity, gentle tannins andcent new). Dark, with a fragrant flavours, in a well-ripened style excellent harmony. $49 (A)bouquet of blackcurrants, plums Archangel Central Otago with very good complexity and Peacock Sky Waihekeand spices, seasoned with nutty Pinot Noir 2010 gentle tannins. Already hard to Island Malbec Limitedoak, it is an immaculate, densely Grown in the Cromwell Basin, resist. $29 (A, UK, US) Edition 2010packed wine with a firm tannin this single-vineyard red is boldly Pegasus Bay Classy young wine, blended withbackbone and a rich, long finish. coloured, with mouthfilling body Chardonnay 2009 a splash of cabernet sauvignonFrom an exceptionally warm, and highly concentrated cherry, Tightly structured, intensely (6 per cent) and matured fordry growing season, it should plum and spice flavours. Gently flavoured Waipara wine, from over a year in barrels (mostlyflourish for a decade. $60 oaked and vibrantly fruity, it 25-year-old vines. Youthful, French). Bold and brambly,Vidal Legacy Series shows good cellaring potential; light lemon/green hue, with a with deep, bright colour andHawke’s Bay Noble open mid-2013+. $39 (A) complex bouquet and elegant, concentrated blackcurrant andSemillon 2011 minerally palate, lemony, limey, plum flavours, braced by firmSet to blossom, this lovely Hawkshead nutty and slightly flinty. Crisp, tannins. Powerful, stylish red,dessert wine (204 grams/litre of Bannockburn Central dry and long, with real vigour, well worth cellaring. $52residual sugar) was grown in the Otago Pinot Noir 2010 it should be at its best mid- Peacock Sky WaihekeKeltern Vineyard, Maraekakaho, Richly fragrant, complex and 2013+. $36 (A, UK, US) Island Cabernetand fermented and matured sweet-fruited red, barrel-aged Pegasus Bay Sauvignon 2010for eight months in French oak for 17 months. Bold, ‘masculine’ Pinot Gris 2011 Dark and sturdy, with freshbarriques (32 per cent new). style, dark and powerful, with Grown at Waipara, harvested cassis, plum, spice and nutOily textured, with superbly ripe loads of fresh, plummy, spicy fruit in May at 30 brix, with a “good flavours, showing excellentfruit characters of stonefruit, flavour, a hint of licorice and ripe, amount of noble botrytis”, ripeness and richness.melon and lime, it is gently supple tannins. Still very youthful, and partly barrel-aged, this is a Concentrated, firmly structuredhoneyed, with compelling with obvious potential. $45 (A) full-bodied, sweetish wine (40 red with obvious cellaringconcentration and vigour. Best Muddy Water Waipara grams/litre of residual sugar), potential; open 2014+. $47drinking 2014+. $40 Pinot Noir 2011 in a vendange tardive style. Trinity Hill Certified organic. Full of drink- Still very youthful, with obvious The Gimblett 2010½ young appeal, this is a savoury potential, it has concentrated, Stylish blended red, based and supple, sweet-fruited vibrant pear, lychee and spice principally on merlot (60 per cent),Crossroads red, ruby hued, with strong, flavours, with a slightly honeyed with smaller amounts of cabernetWinemakers Collection fresh, beautifully ripe cherry, richness, and good complexity. sauvignon, cabernet franc, petitChardonnay 2011 plum and spice flavours, Open mid-2013+. $28 verdot and malbec. Mouthfilling,Stylish young wine, gentle tannins and excellent Pasquale Hakataramea deeply coloured and supple, withmouthfilling, complex and complexity. Great value. $39.95 Valley Pinot Noir 2010 good density of blackcurrant,built to last. Finely poised, From a north-facing limestone plum and slight herb flavours,with vibrant grapefruit and nut slope, 300m above sea level savoury and complex. Drink nowflavours, showing excellent in South Canterbury, this rare or cellar. $34 (A, UK)concentration. Powerful yet wine (1400 bottles) is deep and Urlar Gladstonesubtle, with a minerally streak youthful in colour, mouthfilling Pinot Noir 2010and obvious potential. $35 (A) and packed with vibrant plum, Enticingly scented red from theForrest The Valleys cherry and spice flavours. northern Wairarapa, certifiedWairau Dry Riesling 2010 Supple, with finely integrated organic. Deeply coloured andAlready approachable but still oak and some savoury full-bodied, with concentratedvery youthful, this weighty, complexity developing, it’s still red berry, strawberry, driedtightly structured wine offers unfolding; open 2014+. $72 herb and spice flavours,rich, citrusy, peachy, slightly complex, savoury, finelylimey and spicy flavours, with textured and very harmonious.a minerally streak. A very Good value. $35 (A, UK, US)generous wine, dryish rather Vavasourthan bone-dry, it should be at Anna’s Vineyard Awatereits best 2014+. $25 (UK) Valley Marlborough Chardonnay 2010 Powerful, still-youthful wine, full-bodied and creamy- textured. Stonefruit and biscuity oak flavours, with indigenous yeast notes adding complexity and a long, slightly buttery finish. $42 (A)138 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

recent releasesWaipara Hills Crossroads Giesen The Brothers Muddy Water JamesEquinox Waipara Valley Winemakers Collection Marlborough Sauvignon Hardwick Riesling 2011Riesling 2011 Cabernet Franc 2010 Blanc 2011 Waipara wine, certified organic.Rich, finely balanced, medium This powerful Gimblett Gravels Grown mostly in the Rapaura Finely poised, lemony, limey,style (31 grams/litre of residual red is dark and sturdy, with a district, in the Wairau Valley, slightly spicy flavours that lingersugar), estate-grown in The strong surge of blackcurrant, this is a punchy, vibrantly fruity well. Medium style, still veryMound Vineyard. Slightly plum and spice flavours, a wine, ripely herbaceous, with youthful, with a hint of sherbethoneyed, with generous, slightly herbal streak and sweet-fruit delights and strong and good complexity. $27.95citrusy, peachy flavours, a good tannin support. Savoury melon/lime flavours, crisp and Muddy Water Waiparahint of botrytis, and lovely and complex, it’s well worth lingering. $25 (A, UK, US) Chardonnay 2011freshness, depth and harmony. cellaring. $35 (A) Gladstone Vineyard Generous, organically certifiedDrink now or cellar. $29 Sophie’s Choice wine, barrel-fermented withWaipara Hills Equinox Gibbston Highgate Sauvignon Blanc 2011 indigenous yeasts, lees-agedWaipara Valley Sauvignon Estate Soultaker Reserve Weighty, complex, barrel- for 11 months and givenBlanc 2011 Pinot Noir 2010 fermented style, grown in a full, softening malolacticClassy, complex, wood-aged Drinking well from now the northern Wairarapa and fermentation. Full-bodied,style, fermented and lees-stirred onwards, this distinctly cool- lees-aged in oak for 10 months. savoury and biscuity, withfor four months in barrels (10 climate style was estate-grown Full-bodied and well-rounded, slightly buttery, minerallyper cent new). Ripely scented, at Gibbston, French oak-aged for with ripe, tropical fruit flavours, notes, and good acid spine andwith rich, passionfruit-like over a year, and bottled without gently seasoned with French complexity. Tightly structured,flavours, gently seasoned with fining or filtering. Full-coloured, oak, a slightly creamy texture, yet forward in its appeal. $32.95smoky oak, and a dry, smooth, it is fresh and vibrant, with and excellent concentrationlingering finish. Delicious concentrated cherry, plum, spice and harmony. $35 (A, UK) Hawkshead First Vinesdrinking now onwards. $29 and herb flavours, showing good Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010Vavasour Felix’s complexity. $50 (UK) Pinot Noir 2010 Estate-grown at Gibbston, inVineyard Awatere Giesen The Brothers Smooth-flowing, intensely varietal Central Otago, this youthful wineValley Marlborough Late Harvest red from the northern Wairarapa. is based on the oldest vines andPinot Noir 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Ruby hued, with cherry, plum, matured in French oak casksEnticingly floral, full-coloured Blanc 2011 (375ml) dried herb and nut flavours, (40 per cent new). Deep ruby,red, hand-picked and barrique- Light gold, super-sweet wine showing good complexity and it is mouthfilling and vibrantlyaged for a year. Deep cherry, (280 grams/litre of residual sugar), fine-grained tannins. Drink now or fruity, with generous plum andplum and spice flavours, finely grown at Renwick, hand-picked cellar. $45 (A, UK) dried herb flavours, fresh acidity,integrated oak, good complexity in June at a soaring 54 brix, and Greystone Botrytis savoury notes adding complexityand a long, smooth-flowing fermented in old French oak Gewurztraminer and ripe, supple tannins. $45finish. Worth cellaring. $42 (A) barriques. Already delicious, with 2011 (375ml) Northburn Station Central a restrained wood influence and Complex style from Waipara, Otago Pinot Noir 2009 ultra-ripe nectarine and honey bright green/gold, with deep Moderately youthful, savoury flavours, oily and rich. $30 (A, US) peach and spice flavours, slightly red, from slopes overlookingAravin Central Otago gingery and honeyed, abundant Lake Dunstan. Full ruby, withPinot Noir 2010 sweetness, a suggestion of oak, very good depth of ripe cherry,Grown at Alexandra, this and good harmony. $39.95 plum, spice and nut flavours,deeply coloured red has Greystone still fresh and vibrant, andmouthfilling body and strong Brittle Star Waipara Valley complexity from indigenousplum, cherry, spice and slight Riesling 2011 yeasts and 16 months’herb flavours, showing some Late-picked grapes, including maturation in French oak caskssavoury complexity. Fruit- some shrivelled berries, made (40 per cent new). Drink nowpacked, with good tannin in a low alcohol (9 per cent), or cellar. $40 (A)support, it’s a drink-now or medium-sweet style. Poised Pasquale Hakatarameacellaring proposition. $35 and very youthful, with lemony, Valley Arneis 2011Foxes Island Marlborough limey, slightly honeyed flavours This rare wine was grown inChardonnay 2008 and excellent concentration and South Canterbury, made withEstate-grown and hand-picked in harmony. Best 2014+. $34.95 some use of indigenous yeaststhe Awatere Valley, this barrel- Mud House The Mound and barrel fermentation, andfermented wine was bottle- Vineyard Waipara Valley lees-aged for 10 months. Freshaged for three years prior to its Riesling 2011 and crisp, it is medium-bodied,release. Delicious now, with a Freshly scented, medium dry and minerally, with citrusyfragrant, complex bouquet, it is style (20 grams/litre of flavours, a hint of dried herbs,mouthfilling, with strong, peachy, residual sugar), finely poised, and excellent purity, drive andcitrusy, slightly biscuity flavours, with lemony, slightly spicy length. $34smooth and long. $38 (A, UK) and honeyed flavours, a hint of sherbet, and excellent varietal character, delicacy and harmony. $29 (A, UK, US) September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 139

MICHAEL COOPERPasquale Waitaki Valley Soljans Legacy Methode Catalina Sounds Gibbston HighgateGewurztraminer 2011 Traditionnelle 2009 Marlborough Dreammaker Pinot GrisRipely perfumed, dry style (4 Crisp, tight and elegant blend Pinot Gris 2011 Reserve 2011grams/litre of residual sugar), of pinot noir and chardonnay, Lemon-scented, mouthfilling Limited edition, grown athandled in tanks (40 per cent) grown in Marlborough. Fine, and vibrantly fruity, this single- Gibbston, in Central Otago,and old oak casks (60 per cent). small bubbles, with vivacious, vineyard, Waihopai Valley fermented with indigenousGood “food” wine – vibrantly citrusy, appley, yeasty and wine was partly (25 per cent) yeasts and matured for a yearfruity, citrusy and gingery, with nutty flavours, slightly sweet, barrel-fermented. It offers in three seasoned French oaka hint of apricots, considerable smooth and long. $33.95 very good depth and delicacy barrels. Fleshy and full-bodied,complexity, and a long, rounded, Vavasour Awatere Valley of citrus fruit, pear and slight with citrusy, slightly butterywell-spiced finish. $32 (A) Chardonnay 2011 spice flavours, with leesy notes flavours, candied notes, a sliverPasquale Waitaki Valley Creamy-textured, with lots adding complexity and a dryish of sweetness and considerablePinot Grigio 2011 of drink-young appeal. Hand- finish. $25 (A) complexity. Worth cellaring. $30Subtle, satisfying, distinctly picked and barrel-fermented, Catalina Sounds Gibbston Highgatecool-climate style from North with mouthfilling body, rich, Marlborough Soultaker Central OtagoOtago, lees-aged for 10 ripe, peachy flavours, a hint Pinot Noir 2010 Pinot Noir 2010months, and made with some of butterscotch and a finely Light ruby, single-vineyard This estate-grown, Gibbstonuse of indigenous yeasts balanced, well-rounded finish. red from the Omaka Valley. red was French oak-maturedand barrel fermentation. $24 (A, UK, US) Strongly varietal, with and bottled unfined andMouthfilling and fresh, with Vavasour Awatere Valley moderately concentrated unfiltered. Deep ruby, it isvibrant citrus fruit, pear, apple Pinot Noir 2011 cherry, strawberry and slight mouthfilling, with cherry, plumand spice flavours, showing Floral, ruby hued red, herb flavours, showing some and spice flavours, showinggood delicacy and complexity, mouthfilling and supple, with nutty oak complexity and a good complexity and depth.and a dry, rounded finish. $34 fresh, ripe cherry and plum fairly firm finish. $27 (A) Drink now or cellar. $30 (A)Pasquale Waitaki Valley flavours and a nutty, savoury Crossroads Milestone Giesen The BrothersRiesling 2010 complexity. Finely textured Series Merlot 2011 MarlboroughScented, off-dry style (8.7 and harmonious, but still Fleshy, full-coloured red with Chardonnay 2011grams/litre of residual sugar) unfolding; open mid-2013+. moderately rich blackcurrant, Mouthfilling, very youthfulwith high acidity and strong, $32 (A, UK, US) plum and spice flavours, wine, hand-harvested, barrel-citrusy, limey flavours. Lively, Village by Pasquale sweetly oaked and smooth, fermented with indigenoussteely and minerally, with a Reserve Waitaki Valley and some savoury notes adding yeasts and given a full, softeninglingering finish and a long life Chardonnay 2010 complexity. Best drinking mid- malolactic fermentation. Creamyahead. $30 (A) Tightly structured, cool climate 2013+. $19 (A) textured, with citrusy, limey style from North Otago with Crossroads Milestone flavours, a hint of butterscotchRa Nui Marlborough Abel good intensity, barrel-fermented Series Chardonnay 2011 and some mealy complexity.Clone Pinot Noir 2010 and oak-aged for 15 months. Upfront style, partly barrel- Best mid-2013+. $25The unidentified “Abel” clone Lemony and slightly buttery, fermented and still slightly Goldwater Wairau Valley(also known as the “Ata with hints of pears and apples, oaky. Full-bodied, with MarlboroughRangi”, “gumboot” or “DRC” fresh acidity, a minerally streak generous, peachy, nutty Chardonnay 2011clone), is highly regarded in and good complexity. $39 flavours, showing considerable Fleshy, with ripe, peachy,New Zealand. Grown in the Waipara Hills complexity and a smooth, slightly toasty and butteryDelta Hill vineyard and French Equinox Waipara Valley creamy-textured finish. $20 (A) flavours. Moderately complexoak-aged for 14 months, this is Pinot Noir 2010 Forrest Marlborough style, generous and slightlya full-coloured, firmly structured Floral and supple, ‘feminine’ Chardonnay 2009 creamy, with a well-roundedred, mouthfilling, with ripe style, estate-grown in The Mound Still youthful, this attractive, finish. $22 (A)berry, spice and nut flavours in Vineyard. Deep ruby, with a fruit-driven style was fermented Goldwater Wairau Valleya complex, slightly ‘masculine’ vibrant array of cherry, plum, and matured in a 50/50 split of Marlboroughstyle. It’s still youthful; open herb, spice and nut flavours, tanks and barrels. Mouthfilling, Pinot Noir 20112014+. $45 (A, UK) intensely varietal and showing it has vibrant peach, grapefruit Fresh, lively, ruby-hued redPisa Range Estate Central good complexity. $29 (UK) and spice flavours, showing with vibrant cherry/plumOtago Pinot Gris 2011 considerable complexity, with a flavours, a subtle seasoningFloral, full-bodied wine, grown at ½ finely balanced, smooth finish. of oak and good texture.Bendigo. Strong, vibrant flavours $22 (A, UK, US) Sweet-fruited and moderatelyof peaches, pears and spices, Akarua Rua Central Otago Foxes Island Marlborough complex. Best drinking mid-with a sliver of sweetness, Pinot Noir 2011 Belsham Awatere Estate 2013+. $28 (A, US)appetising acidity and a touch A delicious drink-young style, Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Hawkshead Central Otagoof lees-aging complexity. hand-picked and French This hand-picked, partly Pinot Noir 2010Refreshing style with good oak-matured for 10 months. barrel-fermented wine is crisp Ruby hued regional blend withimmediacy. $28 (A, US) Sweet-fruited and smooth, with and herbaceous, with strong, good depth of cherry, plum and a gentle seasoning of oak and “tomato stalk” aromas, leading spice flavours, showing some fresh, generous cherry and plum into a mouthfilling, dry wine savoury, nutty complexity and flavours to the fore. $25 (A, UK) with punchy melon, lime and moderately firm tannins. Well capsicum flavours, herbal and worth cellaring; open mid- minerally. $25 (A, UK) 2013+. $39.95 (A, UK)140 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

recent releasesKurow Village Peacock Sky WaihekeCricklewood Waipara Island Merlot Malbec 2010Riesling 2008 Deeply coloured blend ofNorth Canterbury wine with merlot (71 per cent), malbeca gently honeyed bouquet (16 per cent) and cabernetand bottle-aged complexity. sauvignon (13 per cent), withMedium-bodied, with a a fragrant, plummy, slightlyhint of botrytis and strong, nutty bouquet. Full-bodied andcitrusy, slightly sweet and fruit-packed, in a sturdy, sweet-toasty flavours. Ready. (From fruited style, with moderatePasquale.) $20 complexity and good tanninMain Divide Waipara support. Drink now or cellar.Valley Chardonnay 2010 Verging on four stars. $45Elegant, barrel-fermented wine Ra Nui Marlborough Deltawith indigenous yeast notes Hill Pinot Noir 2010on the nose, peachy flavours, From an elevated site, 300ma slightly creamy texture, and above the floor of the Wairauvery good complexity, harmony Valley, this is a mouthfilling,and depth. (From Pegasus Bay.) supple red, deep ruby, withFine value at $19.95. (A, UK) strong, cherryish, slightly herbalMount Riley Marlborough flavours and a finely textured,Chardonnay 2011 smooth finish. $45 (A, UK)Delicious drink-young style, Ribbonwood Marlboroughmostly (70 per cent) fermented Riesling 2011and matured for nine months Fresh, medium-bodied, slightlyin barrels, with 30 per cent of sweet style with lemony, appley,the blend handled in tanks. slightly spicy flavours, showingFresh and finely balanced, with good delicacy and depth.vibrant fruit flavours to the fore, Youthful, finely balanced andbuttery, slightly toasty notes already very enjoyable. (Fromadding interest, and excellent Framingham.) $19.95 (A, UK, US)delicacy and harmony. Good Ribbonwood Marlboroughvalue at $18. Sauvignon Blanc 2011Mud House The Home Fresh, lively Wairau Valley wine,Block Vineyard Waipara full-bodied, with good delicacyValley Pinot Gris 2011 and depth of ripe melon andFull-bodied, dry style (4 grams/ lime flavours, slightly leesylitre of residual sugar) with notes adding interest, and avibrant lemon and lychee well-rounded finish. (Fromaromas and flavours. Slightly Framingham.) $19.95 (A, UK, US)creamy texture, with very good Richmond Plains Nelsonvarietal character and depth. Pinot Noir 2011Worth cellaring. $28 (A, UK, US) Certified organic. Full-coloured,Mud House The Woolshed mouthfilling and smooth, withVineyard Marlborough ripe, sweet-fruit charactersSauvignon Blanc 2011 and cherry, plum and spiceRipely scented, single-vineyard flavours, showing good texture,wine from the Wairau Valley. complexity and depth. AlreadyFresh lime and spice flavours, drinking well. $23 (A, UK, US)with a minerally streak and a Serendipityslightly off-dry, mouth-wateringly Vineyard Central Otagocrisp finish. $29 (A, UK, US) Pinot Gris 2011Pasquale Hakataramea Fresh, full-bodied CromwellValley Alma Mater 2010 Basin wine, fermented in oldYouthful, South Canterbury barrels and made in a slightlyblend of three aromatic off-dry style. Moderatelygrapes - pinot gris (40 per concentrated, with vibrant,cent), riesling (35 per cent) citrusy, slightly appley flavours,and gewurztraminer (25 per showing good delicacy andcent). Medium-bodied, dry and harmony. $25restrained, with lemony, appley,slightly spicy flavours, lively,minerally and crisp. $32 (A) September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 141

MICHAEL COOPERSerendipity Baby Doll Marlborough Gibbston Highgate Richmond Plains NelsonVineyard Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Heartbreaker Central Chardonnay 2011Pinot Noir 2010 If you like a “greener” style Otago Chardonnay 2011 Certified organic, this is aFreshly scented, deeply of sauvignon blanc, this is for Mouthfilling, fruit-driven style, mouthfilling, vibrantly fruitycoloured Cromwell Basin you. Freshly herbaceous, it is mostly handled in tanks but 25 wine with good depth of fresh,red, hand-picked at 25 brix, full-bodied, with gooseberry, per cent of the blend was barrel- citrusy, peachy flavours, a touchfermented with indigenous lime and capsicum flavours, fermented. Vibrant, with citrusy, of complexity and a smoothyeasts and French oak-matured crisp, lively and strong. (From slightly buttery flavours, a hint finish. $20(30 per cent new). Vibrantly Yealands.) $16 (A) of butterscotch, fresh acidity Selaks Reserve Centralfruity, with strong plum/spice Clifford Bay Marlborough and a smooth finish. $30 (UK) Otago Pinot Noir 2011flavours, showing considerable Chardonnay 2011 Kurow Village This youthful, vibrantly fruitycomplexity, but also some raw Fruit-driven style, mouthfilling, Cricklewood Otago Pinot red was grown at Alexandranotes, suggesting this wine is fresh and soft, with citrusy, Gris 2010 and “mostly” oak-matured.still coming together. Worth slightly buttery flavours and Enjoyable now, this full- Ruby hued, it has freshcellaring to mid-2013+. $38 a smooth finish. Enjoyable bodied wine (14.5 per cent cherry and plum flavours, in aThe Crossings Awatere young. $20 (A, US) alc/vol) is slightly sweet, with moderately concentrated style,Valley Marlborough Crossroads Milestone fresh acidity and plenty of woven with lively acidity. BestRiesling 2011 Series Syrah 2011 citrusy, appley flavour. (From drinking 2013+. $22Highly scented, with lemony, Enjoyable young, this Pasquale.) $24 Soljans Kumeuappley aromas, fresh and mouthfilling Gimblett Gravels red Mount Riley Marlborough Pinot Gris 2011strong. Light-bodied, with crisp, has moderately concentrated, Pinot Noir 2011 Hand-picked in west Aucklandslightly sweet and minerally plummy, peppery, slightly toasty Good, easy drinking. Bright and handled in tanks, this is aflavours, showing very good flavours, with a well-rounded ruby, with fresh, vibrant cherry good all-purpose wine, off-dry,varietal character. Already finish. $19 (A) and plum flavours, gently with fresh, vibrant, citrusy,enjoyable. $18 Dashwood Marlborough seasoned with oak and a slightly spicy flavours. $21VNO Marlborough Chardonnay 2011 smooth finish. $22 (A) Soljans MarlboroughPinot Gris 2011 Fruit-driven style with Pasquale Sauvignon Blanc 2011Full-bodied, with peachy, mouthfilling body, fresh, ripe The White Rose 2011 Single-vineyard, Wairau Valleyslightly spicy and gingery peach and melon flavours to “Treated like an aromatic wine, medium-bodied, withflavours. Already enjoyable, the fore and a smooth, slightly white”, this Waitaki Valley wine fresh, herbaceous aromas andwith good depth, balanced buttery finish. $20 (A) was made from pinot noir (95 vibrant melon, lime and greenacidity and a creamy- Forrest Marlborough per cent) and dolcetto (5 per capsicum flavours, smoothsmooth, off-dry finish. (From Chenin Blanc 2010 cent). Pale, with a vague hint of and well balanced for easyConstellation NZ.) $22 Fresh, vibrant, medium-bodied pink, it is fresh and full-bodied, drinking. $21 (US)VNO Marlborough style, partly (20 per cent) with lemony, appley, gently Te KairangaPinot Noir 2010 barrel-fermented, with lemony, spicy flavours and a slightly Runholder MartinboroughDrinking well now, this ruby appley flavours and a gently leesy, dry finish. A good, all- Pinot Noir 2009hued red is mouthfilling, with sweet, crisp finish. $25 purpose “food” wine. $32 Barrique-aged for two years,good depth of cherry, plum and Fox Belsham Vineyard Pasquale Waitaki Valley this is a robust red (14.5% perspice flavours, showing some Selection Marlborough 16 Riesling 2010 cent alc/vol), with full, maturingsavoury, nutty complexity. Pinot Noir 2009 Youthful, medium style with colour. Full-bodied and full-(From Constellation NZ.) $22 Regional blend, barrel- a restrained bouquet, strong, flavoured, with plum, licoriceVNO Marlborough aged for 10 months. Light, lemony flavours, with a hint of and herb notes, it’s ready forSauvignon Blanc 2011 slightly developed ruby, with sherbet and lively acidity. (The drinking now. $32 (A)Very easy-drinking and mouthfilling body, gentle “16”on the label refers to this Te Mania Nelsonattractive style with fresh, tannins and plum, spice and North Otago wine’s 16 grams/ Pinot Noir 2010ripe, passionfruit/lime aromas herb aromas and flavours, litre of residual sugar.) $27 (A) Ready to roll, with generousleading into a mouthfilling, showing some savoury Penny Gold 2011 cherry, spice and herb flavours,zesty wine, with vibrant, complexity. Ready. $25 (A, UK) Grown in the Waitaki Valley, showing some complexity and atropical fruit flavours and Gibbston Highgate this is a very easy-drinking rounded finish. $22 (A, UK, US)a smooth finish. (From Soultaker Central Otago blend of gewurztraminer (65 Te Mania Nelson ThreeConstellation NZ.) $22 Pinot Noir 2011 per cent) and pinot gris (35% Brothers Merlot Malbec Fresh, light-bodied style with per cent). Gently spicy aromas Cabernet Franc 2011 drink-young appeal, estate- lead into a medium to full- Enjoyable, drink-young red with grown at Gibbston and barrel- bodied wine with a distinct deep colour, fresh, berryish12,000 Miles aged for six months. Light ruby, splash of sweetness amidst aromas and mouthfilling body.Pinot Noir 2011 with moderately concentrated its peach, lychee and spice Fruit-driven style with goodStill very youthful, this northern plum, cherry and herb flavours, flavours, and a smooth finish. depth of red berry and plumWairarapa red is a light-bodied a touch of complexity and a (From Pasquale.) $24 flavours, a hint of sweet oakstyle, clearly varietal, with smooth finish. $30 (A) Ribbonwood Marlborough and a smooth finish. $22ripe cherry and spice flavours Pinot Noir 2011 The Crossings Awatereshowing some savoury Ruby hued, with fresh, vibrant Valley Marlboroughcomplexity. Best drinking cherry/plum flavours to the Pinot Gris 20112013+. (From Gladstone fore, a hint of herbs and some Vibrant, medium to full-bodiedVineyard.) $27 (A, UK) oak-ageing complexity. Subtle, style with plenty of fresh, peachy, easy drinking red, enjoyable slightly spicy flavours and a dryish young. (From Framingham.) finish. Enjoyable young. $18 $24.95 (A, UK, US)142 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDSeptember/October 2012 Issue 125 FREE COPY in this issue THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE B r a n dy , C o g n a c LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. & Armagnac New Releases Winestate Publishing and Top 40 ABN 56 088 226 411 best wine buys u n d e r $20www.LowburnFerry.co.nz

31 TASTED26 AWARDEDB R A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M AG N ACThe Queen of spirits, brandy (the spirit of the grape) St Agnes XO Australia Château duTariquet VSOPis seen here with great example in its regional forms, Brandy HHHH1/2 Appelation Bas-Armagnacfrom quality Australian brandy to superb Cognac and Dark, chocolaty brown colour Contrôlée Armagnac HHHHamazing Armagnac. Each offers a slight variation on the with good integration of rich, A broader, richer style withtheme and are well worth hunting down. sweet fruit, wood and aged upfront wood rancio on the aromas. Full flavoured palate; nose mixed with sweet, fruity good depth and with a real bite notes. Good soft, slightly sweet to it. Nice fiery alcohol lifts. $100 and flavoursome palate. $49.99BRANDY BRANDY ARMAGNAC Château du Tariquet XOUNDER $100 $100 & OVER UNDER $100 100 Years Appelation Bas-Armagnac Contrôlée4 TASTED 2 TASTED 8 TASTED Armagnac HHHH A clean, fresh, younger style2 AWARDED 2 AWARDED 6 AWARDED with vibrant, lifted aromas and soft, elegant palate showingSt Agnes VSOP good complexity and sweetAged 5 Years Australia finish. $99.99Brandy HHHHGood aromas showing someaged rancio characters. Softin the mouth with vibrantintensity of flavours and somefiery alcohol. $40St Agnes 3 Star ClassicAustralia Brandy HHHComplex and flavoursome withcola-like essence present andgood age/wood integration. $32JUDGES XO Brandy HHHHH Gelas Age 21 Ans Gelas 18 Ans D'âge Very dark hues with a lovely, Appelation Bas-Armagnac Cépage Ugni Blanc coffee-like tang to the nose, Contrôlée Armagnac HHHH Appelation Bas-Armagnac and rich and flavoursome A fresh and complex nose with Contrôlée Armagnac HHH palate, with great oak age nice, elegant, sherry, wood A pungent, fruity presence on integration. An excellent style presence. Palate is soft in the the nose. Hot and oily in the with a nice hot bite at the end. mouth, balanced, fresh and mouth – volatile flavours. $66 (by Hardys) $119.99 lifted. A classic. $71 Bill Hardy Ken Klingner Russell Johnson Corporate oenologist for Technical manager at CEO of Russell Johnson Accolade Wines (formerly Tarac Technologies Pty Consulting, for wine Constellation). 28 years’ Ltd. With more than & spirit research and winemaking experience in 30 years’ experience in development. Formerly places such as McLaren Vale, the distillation of spirit wine division technical Western Australia and France. products, Ken is involved manager of Beringer Blass Has judged internationally in the production, Wine Estates. Eight years’ (France and Japan), and been maturation and blending experience as production an associate or senior judge at of brandy and rum. manager with Seagram more than 20 state and regional Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show wine shows in Australia. judge in the brandy class.144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tasting Château duTariquet Loujan 17 Years Old COGNAC Color Collection 15Years Appelation Bas-Armagnac OVER $100 Appelation Bas-Armagnac Contrôlée Armagnac Contrôlée Armagnac HHHH (200ml) HHH 4 TASTED Strong vanilla characters to Light, sweet and balanced the oily nose and youthful but bouquet - similar palate. Some 4 AWARDED complex palate. Warm in the rancio evident. $176 mouth and quite elegant inGelas 18 Ans D'âge style. $134.99 COGNAC Courvoisier XOCépage Folle Blanche Delord 25 Ans D'âge UNDER $100 Imperial Jarnac FranceAppelation Bas-Armagnac Appelation Bas-Armagnac Cognac HHHHHContrôlée Armagnac HHH Contrôlée Armagnac HHHH 4 TASTED A richer, fuller style with well-Big vanilla lift to the nose with A classic. It is complex in style 4 AWARDED developed aromas – woody,a dry, astringent palate – very with slightly oily characters, no spicy and nutty. A complexwoody. $66 excessive woodiness, some Courvoisier VSOP palate showing strong rancio nice rancio and is soft in the Appelation Fine characters. $180Domaine D'Espérance mouth. $146.50 Champagne Contrôlée Hennessy XO France10 ans Appelation Bas- Cognac HHH1/2 Cognac HHHHHArmagnac Contrôlée Gelas Appelation Lovely, rich complexity of A delicate, well-balancedArmagnac HHH Bas-Armagnac Contrôlée sweet/dry aromas and a soft, cognac showing really rich, full,Slight lolly-like, perfumed nose Armagnac 1952 HHH1/2 delicate palate. $70 rancio age with nice tea leaf-and slightly oily, well-balanced Very oaky, liqueur style like extract. Intense complexityand flavoursome palate. $60 with lovely, complex, aged Hennessy VSOP France of balanced flavour, yet is characters and soft, elegant Cognac HHH1/2 youthful. $199.99ARMAGNAC flavours. $458 Simple, fruit rancio aromas and J. PainturaudOVER $100 Loujan 12 Years Old a fuller-style palate with intense Grande Champagne Appelation Bas-Armagnac flavours and some nuttiness. XO Cognac HHHH9 TASTED Contrôlée Armagnac Hot finish. $79.99 Loads of wood with complex8 AWARDED (200ml) HHH1/2 spirit and good rancio characters. A rich, full, rancio style with Hennessy VS France Big vanilla lift to the nose andLoujan Appelation sweet, volatile nose and quite Cognac HHH full-flavoured palate. $139.99Bas-Armagnac drying but flavoursome palate. A light style - some rancio on J. Painturaud ReserveContrôlée Armagnac 1979 Good wood integration. $150 the nose and sweet, wood Cognac HHH1/2(200ml) HHHH1/2 Darroze Les Grands integration on the palate. Intensely flavoured productA richer, medium-weight style Assemblages 20 Ans Sweet finish. $59.99 with slight lolly-like, perfumedshowing complex estery aromas D'âge Appelation Bas- notes, some rancio and awith a wonderful lift and great Armagnac Contrôlée J. Painturaud Duo pleasant, oily texture. $102.99flavour profile on the soft, smooth Armagnac HHH VSOP Cognac HHHand slightly drying palate. $248 A lighter style showing some Obvious sweetness to the oiliness with nutty rancio and woody nose and full rancio/Château du Tariquet warming alcohol. $146 aged palate. Soft in the mouth.Appelation Bas- Dry end. $84.99Armagnac ContrôléeArmagnac 1995 HHHH STAR RATINGS Big, powerful, honeyed caramelaromas - slightly oily. Long, soft Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofand warm in the mouth with excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.some sweetness and hints of All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryvanilla. $149.99 professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 145





NEW RELEASES242 TASTED109 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA solid new release tasting with some nice surprises and a few Parri Estatedisappointments. It was pleasing to see some nice sparklings from Southern FleurieuTasmania and a few savagnin that have managed to survive the Savagnin 2012 HHHlabelling misinformation to stand alone as a worthy quaffing varietal. Subdued nose and aAlthough popular with the general public, sauvignon blancs and fleshy, ripe, stonefruitverdelhos continue to disappoint our judges who are seeking more palate with good flavourvarietal character (and less sugar). Rieslings and cabernets had a high persistence. $18strike rate and shiraz continues to offer dependable drinking. 2010 Paul Conti Tuartlooks to be the pick of a bunch as far as vintages are concerned. Vineyards Western Australia Chenin Blanc 2012 HHH Sweet and estery on the nose with a simple, stylish and very elegant palate. $18SPARKLING Ross Estate Wines Cirami Estate Artwine Clare Valley Limited Release Riverland Vermentino Fiano 2012 HHH6 TASTED Barossa Sparkling 2012 HHH A delicate, tight and very Shiraz 2008 HHH Light and simple floral fresh style with lifted4 AWARDED Complex, yeasty bouquet with very ripe, herbaceous and tropical bouquet and ripe powerful, sweet/sour fruit. $22A very good flight. \"It blackberry flavours with fruit flavours. $15 CDshows where Australia tarry development. $45 Mount Avoca Bunnamagoo Estateis going,\" suggested Pyrenees Victoria Sauvignon Blancone judge. \"These OTHER WHITE Cirami Estate Viognier 2010 HHH Semillonwines were elegant and VARIETALS Riverland Fiano Complex savoury aromas 2011 HHH1/2complex, but watch the & BLENDS 2012 HHH and very flavoursome A delicate, perfumed,acid levels,\" he advised. A fresh, lifted, spicy palate with nice line of floral/lime bouquet and 15 TASTED varietal - quite Chablis-like toasty oak. 3-5 $24 lean, lemony palate with 11 AWARDED with crunchy flavours. good flavour intensity and Drink now. $15 CD SAUVIGNON nice structure. $21.95 A solid class of interesting BLANC Four SistersPipers varietals showing wines Oakover Wines BLENDS Sauvignon BlancTasmania Sparkling coming into maturity White Label Swan Semillon 2011 HHH2008 HHHH and expressing the Valley Chenin Blanc 14 TASTED A lovely herbaceous,Reserved green apple variety along with good 2011 HHH varietal nose and nicefruit aromas lead to a winemaking skills. Simple and sweet with 4 AWARDED depth of tropical/herbalvery alert and nicely intense citrus/floral flavours. Good acidity.structured palate that Cirami Estate aromas and flavoursome Too many simple wines $15.65has some sharp acidity Riverland Savagnin oily palate. $13 here with excessive Grant Burge 5thand good mousse. $37 2012 HHH1/2 residual sweetness. Some Generation Barossa An interesting wine. good quaffers. \"Wines Sauvignon BlancKreglinger Pretty fruit salad aromas Zonte's Footstep for drinking not thinking,\" Semillon 2012 HHHTasmania Vintage and flavoursome, lemon Love Symbol quipped one judge. Nice quaffer - great withBrut 2005 HHHH butter and green apple Savagnin 2012 HHH lunch! Slightly warmVery pungent, lemon palate with floral notes. Some light, herbaceous with tropical fruit andcurd-like nose with nice $15 CD varietal fruit filled out with zippy acidity. $18.95 CDtoasty development and oak complexity. $16.50 Jane Brookhighly acid palate with Mount Avoca Shovelgate Vineyardgreat flavour persistence. Pyrenees Victoria Koppamurra Margaret River Fume Blanc McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc 3-5 $50 2010 HHH1/2 Viognier 2011 HHH Semillon 2011 HHH A powerful, complex Toasty, meaty styleStuart Wines style with a rich buttery Delicate wine smelling showing an herbaceous nose and tight oak palate and tasting of lift to the nose and withWhitebox Yarra with interesting texture. stewed quinces and big, ripe flavours. $21Valley Premium Needs time. $24Cuvée Rosé stonefruits. Persistent flavours. 3-5 $172004 HHH1/2Interesting melange ofsavoury fruit aromas andlovely flavours. A complexpalate with delicateacidity. 3-5 $29.99148 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSAUVIGNON PINOT GRIS/ St John's Road SatisfactionBLANC GRIGIO Peace of Eden from the very Eden Valley Riesling first ship.11 TASTED 9 TASTED 2012 HHHH1/23 AWARDED 5 AWARDED Colour is an impressive Linking Australia with all coasts shade of green. of North and South America;Too many plain, bland Nice, pretty, delicate and Some nice perfumed/ the Caribbean; Northern Europewines lacking depth of fresh wines showing confectionery fruit on and the Mediterranean; Asia;fruit. Few faults evident good varietal character. the nose and excellent India; Pakistan; New Zealandbut they needed a bit line of flavours edged and the Pacific Islands.more to get across the Zonte's Footstep with attractive toasty For more, visit our website.line here. Doctoressa Pinot characters. $20 Grigio 2012 HHH1/2 No matter what.Stuart Wines A delicate and pretty Forbes & ForbesWhitebox Yarra wine, with estery Eden Valley RieslingValley Sauvignon candied aromas and 2010 HHHHBlanc 2011 HHH some subtle flavours on A very pleasing drinkA very light, herbaceous an austere palate. $16.50 made in quite a uniquelift to the nose and style, with attractiveclean, complex varietal Michelini Alpine toasty fragrancesflavours. $14.50 Valleys Pinot Grigio and big, rich, varietal 2010 HHH1/2 flavours. $20 CDGrant Burge Kraft Light tropical aromas and Sevenhill InigoAdelaide Hills delicate, fresh, crunchy Clare Valley RieslingSauvignon Blanc palate with confectionery- 2012 HHHH2012 HHH like fruit and sharp acid Impressive lemony/A nicely rounded, well- backbone. $17.50 lime aromas with lovelybalanced wine with toastiness. Great texturepleasant flavours and light The Black Chook on the palate with lovelysweetness. $19.95 CD Adelaide Hills Pinot limey flavours and tight Grigio 2012 HHH acid. $25 CDd'Arenberg A big, broad style with Tapestry MV McLarenThe Broken ripe custard apple-like Vale RieslingFishplate McLaren fruit. Good balancing 2012 HHH1/2Vale Sauvignon acidity. $17 A nice dry wine withBlanc 2012 HHH lovely freshness, balanceA light, herbaceous style Grant Burge East and length with subtlewith delicate, varietal Argyle Adelaide Hills citrus floral fruit andfruit. An estery nose and Pinot Gris 2012 HHH some pungency. $18flavoursome palate. $22 Attractive tropical fragrances and simpleVERDELHO fruit flavours. Hint of residual sugar to5 TASTED balance. $19.95 CD1 AWARDED Pipers Brook EstateDisappointing! Too many Tasmaniaordinary, overly sweet, Pinot Gris 2011 HHHunbalanced wines here, Light, elegant,agreed the judges. perfumed fruit bouquet and high acid, greenSirromet 820 Above fruit palate. $34Classic SelectionGranite Belt RIESLINGVerdelho 2012 HHHLifted estery tropical 9 TASTEDaromas and quite 6 AWARDEDluscious, nicely textured,floral/citrus palate. $12 Solid class with some nice 2012s coming through. Lots to look forward to! www.hamburgsud-line.com The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149

NEW RELEASESPatrick Riesling Brygon Reserve Bin Hillbillé James Bunnamagoo PINOT NOIR2011 HHH1/2 828 Margaret River Britain Signature Estate ChardonnayDelicate perfumed Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay 2010 HHH 6 TASTEDnose; nice rose petal- Blanc 2010 HHH 2011 HHHHH A sweet wine 2 AWARDEDlike characters. Palate Toasty aromas mingle Subtle aromas; some with toasty, barrelis soft and succulent with marmalade charry oak mixed ferment richness and A couple of good wines,with powerful citrus characters. Excellent with peach fruit-like mouthfilling, buttery/ with others tending toflavours. $29 flavour development. elements. A very nutty flavours. $21.95 dry reds and lacking $17.99 elegant palate, delicate varietal character.Patrick Aged texture with melony Taylors Clare ValleyRiesling 2008 HHH Eldredge Clare richness and excellent Chardonnay Stuart WinesA very sweet, golden Valley Semillon flavour persistence. 2011 HHH Whitebox Yarrawine with lots of toasty Sauvignon Blanc The wine is a balance of Valley Pinot Noirdevelopment and some 2012 HHH 3-5 $48 delicate, apple-like fruit 2009 HHHcitrussy fruit. $39 Delicate floral characters Laurance of Margaret with generous amounts Simple strawberry on the nose which River Chardonnay of oak. $19 aromas, fresh andSEMILLON follows through on to 2010 HHHH creamy palate, long,& BLENDS the soft palate. $17 CD Lovely cool-climate style Clyde Park fresh flavours and oaky with very light, simple but Bannockburn end. $19.5015 TASTED Bunnamagoo Estate elegant fruit characters. Geelong Chardonnay5 AWARDED Semillon 2010 HHH High level of acidity and 2011 HHH Bimbadgen Regions Developed oily nose judicious use of oak Deep golden wine with Tasmania Pinot NoirThe judges were and long, estery, citrus giving complexity. $38 rich, melony fruit and 2011 HHHdisappointed with this flavours wrapped in Palmer Margaret savoury, meaty, oak Lifted, spicy fruit bouquetgroup. There were far too good acidity. $21.95 River Chardonnay characters. $30 and tight palate. Goodmany neutral wines either 2011 HHH1/2 varietal flavour depth andlacking flavour or showing CHARDONNAY A savoury Chablis-like Bunnamagoo Estate persistence. $39forward development style with lively, green 1827 Handpickedcharacters. The two 18 TASTED melon fruit balanced by Chardonnay OTHER REDstraight semillons 7 AWARDED sweet, nutty oak. A very 2010 HHH VARIETALSwere better and showed stylish wine. $27.50 A very big, old-fashioned, & BLENDSageing potential. Very mixed group. oaky/buttery style - Dolly Still too many big, rich, Parton-like, but has some 11 TASTEDAllandale buttery, old-fashioned elegance. $39.95 6 AWARDEDWinemakers styles here but theReserve Hunter better wines showed ROSÉ Some interesting winesValley Semillon oak restraint and here offering an alternative2011 HHH1/2 elegance, and yet had 8 TASTED to the usual varietals.Some delicate floral complexity and vibrancy. 1 AWARDEDnotes to the lemony Michelini Alpinenose. A very stylish Very disappointing. \"Poor Valleys Teroldegopalate showing good colours as a result of 2010 HHH1/2flavour intensity. $50 very little attention to Dark concentrated detail,\" said one judge. colour, spicy fruitBrygon Reserve Bin \"These are 'botox' wines, aromas and firm tannic828 Margaret River but the enhancement palate with goodSemillon Sauvignon hasn’t worked.\" chocolaty/plum flavourBlanc 2011 HHH depth. $18.50Lifted grassy aromas Zilzie Wineswith a spicy lift and Selection 23 Rosénicely maturing, tropical 2012 HHHpalate. Drink now. $17.99 Striking cherry pink wine with estery fresh fruit salad character. Excellent quaffer. $11JUDGES Stephen John Clare Dry Steve Warrick Owner/winemaker of Currently Winemaker Direct marketer and wine Stephen John Wines. More at Wolf Blass Wines. consultant. Formerly than 30 years’ winemaking Bachelor of Oenology at sales and marketing experience. Has judged Adelaide University. Has manager for the Hamilton at Adelaide, National, and vintaged in Mornington Wine Group. 10 years’ Barossa wine shows. Peninsula and the Pfalz experience working in Regular Winestate panellist region of Germany. McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and chairman of judges at and the Adelaide Hills. Has the Winestate Wine of the judged at the Adelaide, Year Awards. McLaren Vale and Hobart wine shows.150 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER