Winestate Magazine September October 2012

MAINTAINING THE LINK WITH THE PASTThe 1960 vintage for Grange was red wines with VA like that, but the body You are the last working Penfoldsconsidered a watershed year for the and weight of the wine was able to carry it winemaker of the Max Schubertwine. It must have been exciting to start anyway. But let me sidetrack here, VA is well era, a tangible link to Max and toyour long association with the wine on and truly part of Grange. If it's too low you just the old Penfolds traditions. Whatsuch a high note. don't get the same character, it uplifts all the do you bring to the annual Grange\"It was a very good year, good season and I goodies, so to speak, in the wine, providing classification tastings?was pretty involved right from the start with the it is at a reasonable level. For many years \"The link has never been broken.whites and the reds, and of course that year now we have stayed under one (gram/litre).\" With the tasting I'm just one of a panel ofsignified the real beginning of established Bin winemakers and if I see something that Inumbers for Penfolds reds. I hadn't tasted One of your early jobs was in Coonawarra think the rest of the panel has overlooked orGrange, no. I had heard of it. It wasn't long, ensuring fruit transferred to Magill was missed I'll soon say it. We might have a bitonly a matter of days and weeks, people in good shape. Did Coonawarra play a of a discussion on it. There is continuity. Wethere were mentioning Grange pretty often. big role in Grange back then? What was know what we are looking for, we've beenI would have had my first taste within a few special about the fruit? doing it for a long time after all.\"weeks of starting because one of my early \"It was the cool climate and it was mostlyjobs was to test and analyse the old Granges shiraz in those early days, and it suited a After 53 vintages you're still goingbefore 1960 for total SO2 and volatile acidity. style of wine the company wanted to go strong. What gives you the mostI got into Grange straight away.\" on with being the Coonawarra Bin 128 for pleasure thinking back over your instance. But no, Coonawarra did not play long career?High volatile acidity (VA) became an a big part in Grange. The odd drop might \"Being able to work with people whoissue with the early Granges didn't it? have gone into a blend, but no.\" themselves were taught by early\"It was an issue all right. That was why we winemakers who worked with Mary Penfoldcontinued to analyse them, to see if it was You were regarded as a thoughtful - that link again - and what they taught medeveloping in the bottle or staying stable winemaker with a larrikin edge, very and passing it along: the Penfold way. It'sand it was stable. It varies a bit from vintage Australian. A bit like Grange . . . it's a been a real adventure. The first three orto vintage, of course. There could be VA wine that could only come from one four years I was there, it was wholly ownedbetween .95 up to 1.3 grams per litre and in country don't you think? by the Penfold-Hylands and then theythose days it was a bit of an issue because \"Yes, I would go along with that. Yeah, a became public. We then had to answer toit was a bit of an unknown thing in Australia, good Australian wine, big and robust, and the public side of the company and then the family. That was difficult in some ways. it still compares with anything We have always been in some sort of good that's on the continent.\" touch or communication with the Penfold- Hyland family people. We've stayed true The Grange label is pretty to that, that we do the right thing by family unique. Do you like or members. When I also say the Penfold dislike it? way, I am referring back to Max Schubert \"Aw God! I'll say it this way, and his winemakers in those early days, my favourite Grange labels what they set out to do and all that went are the early ones, the very with it. We were trained by them and one early, postage stamp-like of the things we were taught is loyalty. labels. What followed was a more early commercial label \"Don't worry, we had our times! More and I like them, too, but without than once behind closed doors Max and trying to be too controversial I didn't always hit it off but we were over here, the story on the current it in five minutes and we had some pretty label is a little bit long.\" good times.\" JOHN BIRD, SENIOR RED WINEMAKER AND CONSULTANT, 1960 - CURRENT. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 51

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZCHALLENGE ALTHOUGH WE HAVE BEEN J U D G I N G Australian and New Zealand shiraz for the past 34 years, it is only during the last seven years that we have brought together the world’s finest syrah from France and topped up the Australian list by adding the iconic brands that normally don’t enter wine shows. In this way we have been able to put Grange, Hill of Grace, Greenock Creek, Meshach, Torbreck and other Australian high flyers up against Guigal Chateau Ampuis, Chapoutier L’Ermite and Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle. As far as I know no other wine competition in the world does this. Then, of course, we have the sheer numbers of over 700 shiraz and syrah wines, far greater than any other competition judging of this variety. Of course it helps to do this in Australia where the dominant red variety is shiraz. But don’t be fooled that this is a biased home-grown competition only. In the past we have had a French Grand Champion – the Guigal Chateau Ampuis Cote Rotie 2004 - and another equal top - the Chateau Clape Cornas 2006 - and great performances from the top Kiwi wines (one even winning our Wine of the Year last year – the Craggy Range Le Sol 2009).

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Zand the winner is...IT’S ALL ABOUTTHE TASTELOUISA ROSETHERE ARE NOT THAT MANY There are notes from the judges in each section of this review,red wine varieties that we make that are but a couple of general thoughtsas versatile as shiraz, and the tasting are relevant here. There were somereinforced this yet again. Over 700 wines lovely wines with real character.were tasted over five days, from many In rated wines, judges were oftenregions and climates around Australia impressed with the variety of regionaland the world – some that you would expressions, the balance of the winesexpect and others perhaps not; some and careful crafting of the makers.that have a history going back over It was, however, often noted how young150 years with shiraz, and others much many wines were, particularly at themore recent. higher price points, and while wines The judges were almost as diverse as the might have been good – how muchwines – what they had in common was a better would they have looked if theygenuine love of shiraz, what they brought to had a few more years in the bottle beforethe week was a range of experiences and let loose on the world?interpretations of what makes it great. As At the end of the week all the winesalways is the case at Winestate, the wines that had earned five-stars came backare judged blind. Each wine is assessed together – still unidentified in any wayby three judges independently. The and the top 10 were chosen and ranked.scores are then collated and discussed, This was not an easy task. When youand a consensus is reached as to the have wines of such quality together whatquality and hence number of stars the wine is it that makes one better than the next?is worth. Of course the wines that reached So close were the wines that the threefive-stars were great wines and difficult to judges on the last day took over an hourfault, but not all wines reach this pinnacle. to retaste the 20 five-star wines andWines that reach any star rating have been chose the top 10, and nearly as longhighlighted for a reason and are worth again to decide on the ranking of these.finding and trying if the price point and We recommend these wines to you.judges’ comments suit your taste. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 53

This diversity of results is a great credit While many of the winners are well knownto the experience and openness of our and well deserved wines, a couple ofjudges. Yes, we did bring in about 40 boutique wine names that made the cutimported wines, but you might need to go show what can be done with superb fruitto the Winestate website for a full listing of and winemaking attention to detail.wines tasted as many did not make the cutand so won’t appear in this feature. I have noted that over the past few years that the judges have consistently Having said all that, this is the first chosen the more mid-weight, vibrant andyear that all top 10 wines judged by the elegant wines rather than just the blockytrophy panel were Australian wines. What heavyweights. (That’s not to say that greatis interesting is that all the top 10 wines bruisers that have great intensity andcome from South Australia – another are balanced and clean are not worthyfirst – but not as you would expect, all of also being at the top of the tree). Thisfrom the blockbuster regions of the world-wide trend to mid-weight winesBarossa and McLaren Vale but place then brings in an equal playing field togetters also coming from the higher and the top French, Kiwi and other new worldcooler climes. So apart from three superb wines which are more likely to be in thisBarossa and one McLaren Vale examples vein. Hence the results that we have seenin the top 10, we also have the top two in previous years.coming from the Adelaide Hills, plus twofrom the Clare Valley and two from the Over the week we had five differentdefinitely cooler region of Coonawarra. panels of three judges each given the task of judging blind about 140T H E P A N E L I S T S (left to right): Luke Steer, Greg Tilbrook, Adam Clay, Mark Maxwell, Tom Newton, David Norman, Duane Coates,Shane Harris, Winestate Editor Peter Simic, Mark Thwaites, Mario Criado, Phil Lehmann, Charles Hargrave, Louisa Rose, Wolf Blass and Geoff Cowey.54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Zwines each day within different price that you usually buy your wines from and THE JUDGES TOP 10categories. Within each price category check out some of the alternatives. Thethe judges are given vintage information judges’ rating and comments are a guide 1. Bird In Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hillsbut nothing else. Only after all judges’ but ultimately you are the most important Shiraz 2010 $85points are taken down and a rating judge for your palate. You may have adecided upon are the wines revealed. favourite wine but after tasting some of 2. Totino Estate Adelaide HillsOn the final “trophy” day the panel, led these you may find some new favourites. Shiraz 2008 $19.95by chair, senior show judge Louisa Rose(Yalumba Wines) re-tasted blind all the Our thanks go to all our judges (see 3. Gumpara Wines Reservewines awarded five stars by the other photo) for their sterling efforts, and of Shiraz 2010 $35panelists, to choose a top 10. She was course, the many wineries who submittedably assisted by legendary winemaker their wines for critical evaluation. We also 4. Wolf Blass Gold LabelWolf Blass AM and Senior Research acknowledge our valuable sponsors Sip Barossa Shiraz 2010 $28Scientist AWRI, Geoff Cowey. n’ Save Cellars, Negociants Importers and Melbourne Street Cellars for their 5. Saltram Mamre Brook In this massive line-up of wines it is not contribution and the amazing National Barossa Shiraz 2009 $40just about the most expensive and iconic Wine Centre in Adelaide where we heldbut also about wines that have been a public tasting for over 500 of our 6. Wynns Black Label Coonawarrarecommended in each price category. subscribers after the final judging. Shiraz 2010 $38All deserve acclaim, as these are thecream of the crop that made it through Congratulations to all the top 10 and 7. Shingleback D Block Reservethis critical evaluation, a mean feat in itself! category winners, but also to every wine McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 $54.95I suggest that you sort out the price range that received a recommendation in one of the world’s toughest wine competitions. 8. Annie’s Lane Copper Trail Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 $55 9. Lindeman’s Limestone Ridge Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet 2010 $65 10. Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley Shiraz 2006 $60 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 55

1ST Adelaide hills winery Bird in Hand has dominated Winestate’s World’s Best Shiraz Competition. PLACEHILLS HOMETO THEWORLD’S BESTBIRD IN HAND NEST EGG ADELAIDE HILLS SHIRAZ 2010NIGEL HOPKINS the conventional wisdom was that sauvignon blanc and pinot noir would be the Hills’A N D R E W N U G E N T is a firm mainstay wines, but increasingly it’s shiraz and chardonnay that get star billing. Neitherbeliever in “reward for effort”, which grape variety featured on Nugent’s radarprobably has a lot to do with why his Bird when he and his family purchased land nearin Hand 2010 Nest Egg Shiraz has taken Woodside in 1997. A Roseworthy graduatetop honours in Winestate’s competition to in agricultural science, Nugent drifted intofind the World’s Best Shiraz. the wine industry after a period working as a jackaroo. He’d grown up within sight of It is a considerable feat for a cool climate Penfold’s Magill vineyard but, he admits,Adelaide Hills shiraz, cleaning up revered hadn’t paid the wine industry much attentionBarossa labels such as the 2007 Penfold’s until after he began working on a RiverlandGrange, the 2007 Henschke Hill of Grace, vineyard. His next move was to Tatachilla inTorbreck’s 2006 The Laird – all costing McLaren Vale, working as a viticulturist forabout eight times as much, plus a couple the late Vic Zerella. These were boom timesof highly respected French wines, the and the winery prospered.2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné - La Chapelle DeL'Hermitage and the 2007 E.Guigal Côte- “It gave me a fantastic grounding in theRôtie - Château d'Ampuis. The 2010 Nest wine business,” Nugent says. “That era in theEgg was one of 726 shiraz wines tasted mid-1990s was extraordinary. With Michaelin the competition and one of only 20 or Fragos as winemaker we won lots of awards.”so to receive five-star honours in what When the Nugent family decided it was timeWinestate publisher Peter Simic believes to build their own vineyard and winery theyis Australia’s and possibly the world’s most had little hesitation in heading for the Hills.comprehensive shiraz assessment: “We go Water was a key factor and the 40ha patchout and source the best,” he says. of land they targeted, a former dairy, had a 250,000 litre an hour bore pumping water at What is indisputable is that the 2010 Nest 600ppm purity (of dissolved salts). The soilEgg has added new strength to the view that was another, deep red soil over metamorphicthe Adelaide Hills is now a prime source ofpremium cool climate shiraz. For many years56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Zrock and schist, and so was its topography: Milne’s first vintage was in 2003 and soon high alcohol, over-extracted wines,” Nugent“It was aesthetically really pleasing – north Bird in Hand was winning awards from all says. “The demand now is leaning to morefacing, lush, with rolling hills and big red over for its shiraz, establishing a shiraz elegant, food-orientated wine and this newgums,” Nugent says. pedigree matched by few other wineries. Winestate award for our Nest Egg Shiraz just The 2005 vintage was Winestate’s Wine cements the direction we’ve chosen to take.” And this gives a clue to the forces that of the Year and in 2006 it won the World’sdrive Nugent’s quest for perfection: “I’ve Greatest Shiraz Challenge ($30-$40 Bird in Hand crushed around 1550 tonnesalways loved quality things, beautiful things, category), culminating in an extraordinary in 2010, about 25 per cent sourced fromwhether it be gardens or art, or wine,” he 2011 when the Two in a Bush Shiraz won its own vineyards, including a 4ha blocksays. “The wine industry has given us the World’s Best Value Shiraz in the Decanter at Clare producing riesling and shiraz.opportunity to be aspirational, to aim for World Wine Awards, and the Bird in The balance comes from Adelaide Hillsthe best. We’re fanatical about quality and Hand Shiraz was named Best Australian vineyards stretching from Kersbrook tocontinual improvement, which makes this a Red Wine, Best Australian Shiraz and Kuitpo, with the fruit for the 2010 Nest Eggvery difficult place in which to work.” Best Adelaide Hills Red Wine in the shiraz coming from three or four vineyards in International Wine Challenge...plus a Gold the central Hills region around Woodside and Ten years ago Nugent found the ideal Medal in the Decanter World Wine Awards Balhannah. “The Adelaide Hills as a regionaccomplice in his quest for quality in chief just to cap things off. has a fabulous diversity of vineyards due it itswinemaker Kym Milne, who had followed size, range of altitudes and soil types,” saysMichael Hill Smith to be Australia’s second “We’ve been fortunate to be able to follow Milne. “In the case of shiraz, this allows aMaster of Wine, then worked in New Zealand in the pioneering footsteps of wineries selection of a range of different styles. Coolerand later as a flying winemaker based in such as Petaluma and Shaw & Smith who areas such as those around Balhannah andLondon before returning to Australia. first showed the potential of Adelaide Hills Woodside produce shiraz with fabulous“Kym brought a global perspective to our shiraz,” Nugent says. That potential was vibrancy and loads of lifted cool climatebusiness and he helped us to understand also quickly recognised by other nearby pepper and spice aromatics. The warmervery early on that if we wanted to compete wineries such as Hahndorf Hill and The fringes of the Hills to the north and southat the top echelon, it had to be all about Lane, where John Edwards made prescient produce shiraz in the riper spectrum ofshiraz and chardonnay,” Nugent says. “The choices when he planted both shiraz flavours, with ripe berry fruits and fleshierHills can do many varieties to a high level, and chardonnay in 1993. “From a global palates. As a result, the region is producingdepending on their sites, but these are the perspective, the movement in shiraz is now a terrific range of high quality shiraz from atwo. The other varieties can be amazing, very clearly away from the Parker style of number of quality focused producers.”but these two are the best.” September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 57

2NDPLACE FIGHTING FAR ABOVE ITS PRICE TOTINO ESTATE ADELAIDE HILLS SHIRAZ 2008 You can’t always judge a wine’s quality by price alone. JOY WALTERFANG As any viticulturist will tell you, wine is made in the vineyard. Totino’s viticulturist, T H E 2 0 0 8 T OT I N O E S TAT E Damien Harris, is no exception. Harris lives on site at the vineyard with his wife Adelaide Hills Shiraz retails for $19.95, Tory. “Absolutely, wine is made in the which just goes to show that you can’t vineyard,” he agreed. And he couldn’t judge a wine by its price, because at the be accused of being biased because he time of writing this, that wine has just been is also a qualified winemaker. “I’m often announced as the runner-up in the 2012 asked which I like more - winemaking or Great Shiraz Challenge. viticulture. It’s no contest - I just love being out in the vineyard.” Just think, you could buy around three cases of the Totino shiraz for the same money Harris isn’t alone in his passion for the you would spend on one bottle of some wines vine. Totino might be the very busy CEO of in the same challenge! When I suggested this Festival City Wines and Food but he loves to to Don Totino, proprietor of Totino Estates roll up his sleeves and spend as much time Wines, his immediate response was: “I think as he can in his vineyard helping Harris. “I I sell it too cheap, don’t I!” The fruit for this had Don on the tractor all day Sunday,” said winning shiraz came from Totino’s vineyard at Harris. “He likes it because he can relax, Paracombe in the Adelaide Hills. Paracombe doesn’t have to think too much and there has an altitude of over 400m – the terrain is are no phone calls.” gently undulating, the climate cool and the soils are rich. The story goes that several “During summer I usually finish in the decades ago, grapes grown in this same office around five,” explained Totino. “And area were regularly used by Max Schubert then go to work up in the vineyard. I love to for his Grange and for St Henri. be involved, it gives me huge satisfaction.”58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZHe went on: “When I was a boy growing up persimmons, cherries and lovely black said they did, and then produced a bottlein southern Italy, the highlight of the year figs. Don’s instructions are if there is a of my own wine. That made me really verywas the grape picking season. We used to bare patch of ground a plant has to go into happy.” Totino wines are made in more of ago up in the hills in our Alfa Romeos - our it - but it has to be a plant that bears fruit!” European style. “The 2008 shiraz is a gooddonkeys - and pick up the grapes and bring example of this,” said Harris. “It is probablythem back to crush them. I used to jump “There are about 300 olive trees and the biggest style that we have made – itin the concrete vat, stomping up and down on olive picking day Don comes up with was quite a warm vintage. The fruit is quitein my bare feet crushing the grapes. Then his entire family, they lay blankets on the pronounced and we ended up using aboutwe got to try the wine from the previous ground and armed with rakes they comb 70 per cent old oak.”year. Even as young as six I was allowed the trees, the wine flows and half a cow isto try it, although my grandma would add cooked up by the house – it’s a great day.” Totino and Harris were both rapt with thelots of water.” Winestate win. “When you win something Apart from growing the grapes for Totino like this, it makes all the hard work As the often-cited phrase goes – “You wines, Totino and Harris are both very worthwhile,” said Totino. If you haven’tcan take the man out of the country but involved in the winemaking process. “What heard of Totino wines it is because Donnot the country out of the man”. Totino you see in the bottle represents long hours doesn’t believe in spending moneyhas reproduced the atmosphere of spent blending different barrels. If we aren’t on marketing or expensive brochures.those halcyon days of his youth at his happy with the results it doesn’t go into the He would rather put the money intoParacombe property that he fondly refers bottle,” Harris said. He has a simple, but producing the best wine he can. Theto as his little Tuscany. sound, philosophy: “I have to like to drink pair only has one point of difference. the wine myself.” “I keep telling Don he is selling his wine It isn’t just grapes that fill the hectares at too cheap,” Harris said. “But he just saysParacombe. There are vegetables, sheep, Totino exports some of his wine to Italy. ‘I want to make good wines at a goodalpacas and according to Harris: “Just He recalls a recent visit to his home price’ because that is what he expectsabout every fruit tree that you can imagine, country: “I was in a restaurant in Trento from other people.”including chestnuts, olives, quinces, near the Austrian border and asked the wine waiter if they had Australian wines, he September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 59

3RDPLACE GUMPARA SHIRAZ AN ICON SLAYER GUMPAR A WINES RESERVE SHIR AZ 2010 Mark Mader might run a one-man-band operation, but he know’s how to take on the big boys.JOY WALTERFANG If you are planning to get on Mader’s mailing list you had better be quick because he onlyYOU WOULD HAVE TO SAY made 2000 litres of that particular wine. “I have only just ordered the labels for them,”Gumpara wines are the quintessential he said. Modest Mader maintains such a lowone-man-band operation; with the man in profile that apart from a few out-of-date blogsquestion being Mark Mader. “From tending on the internet there is very little to be foundall the vines right through to the final bottling about the man behind the Gumpara label.- I just about do everything myself,” Mader “We are from the original German settlers intold Winestate. So for his 2010 Reserve the Barossa. My descendents came out hereShiraz to come third out of 726 wines in 1845 and purchased land for a vineyard inexhibited in the Great Shiraz Challenge, it the Light Pass area, which has been in themeant he had to beat the socks off some of family ever since,” he said. Mader is now thethe country’s super premium iconic wines. sixth-generation custodian of that vineyard.That is certainly no mean feat. “We have around about 70 acres of fruit with some lovely old vines that are between 50 When I rang Mader on his mobile to give and 80-years-old and some that are overhim the good news he was out in the vineyard 90,” he said.pruning in the rain. There were a few minutesof stunned silence at the other end of the Most of Mader’s grapes go to Peterphone then he burst out with: “Wow that’s Lehmann wines, but each year he alsofantastic. Crikey! I was a bit unsure whether produces about 500 cases of wine underto submit that wine because I thought it might his own Gumpara label. “Initially, makinghave been a bit too young, but I reckon 2010 wine under my own label started out as ais the best year I’ve seen out of the Barossa - it bit of a hobby, but over the last few years,has been one out-of-the-box”.60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Zwith grape prices having been so low, it Mader believes bad times for the wine it’s a good position to be in.” Mader hashas helped supplement lost income,” he industry have finally plateaued and the capability of taking the next step;said. “I put my 2008 Reserve Shiraz in from now on things should start moving getting bigger - making more wine,last year’s Great Shiraz Challenge and I forward. He doesn’t see it as a magical but as he said: “I am really happy andwas really pleased when it was awarded overnight transformation but a long, slow comfortable with the lifestyle I have now.four-stars. I always try to make the very process; a time of correction, with bad I have a young family and I want to spendbest quality wines I possibly can from the vineyards being pulled out. “But then I time with them and not be tied up withvery best quality fruit I can grow and make have always been an optimist,” he said. work, work, work!”sure everything is done properly; no short Mader doesn’t have to worry aboutcuts. Things started tightening up for us appointing a distributor for his wine as it So will there be a 7th generationin 2001 and since then it has been a bit moves out the door almost quicker than vigneron in the family? “I don’t know,of a balancing act, but things began to he can make it. “My wines are starting I haven’t got a crystal ball and I’mimprove for us last year.” It has taken a to get quite a following, particularly certainly not going to push my kids inwhile to get to the stage Mader is at now, in Melbourne,” he said. “I also have that direction,” he said. “Hopefully if theybut all the belt tightening and hard yakka buyers in Queensland and New South don’t take over the vineyard themselves,is beginning to pay off. Wales but, believe it or not, don’t sell in the future, they will get a manager in much here in South Australia. I’m in a and keep it in the family.” “My wines are made off-site as I just few restaurants but not in bottle shops.”don’t have the equipment to do it here at As I was about to go, he stopped me:home, although I do make my fortifieds Mader has tried his hand at exporting “So how many wines was it again in thehere because they are only small, one- and has sold wine to China, the US and shiraz challenge? Mmm and I came thirdtonne batches,” he said. “I focus on Japan, and still exports a small amount - wow that’s really good,” he mused.making wines that will age well. They to Singapore. “Because I only make acan be drunk when released but they limited amount, I haven’t had to rely on PS: Check out the Semillon & Blendsdefinitely benefit with some age on them.” the export market,” he said. “I suppose tasting in this issue. Gumpara’s 2010 Old Vine Barossa Semillon was awarded four stars. Bargain price, too! September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 61

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTHE STATSthat countNUMBER TASTED: 724NUMBER AWARDED: 492% awarded: 67.8%NUMBER FIVE STARS(Gold Award): 22% awarded: 4.5%NUMBER FOUR& HALF STARS(High Silver Award): 43% awarded: 8.8%NUMBER FOUR STARS(Silver Award): 99% awarded: 20.2%NUMBER THREE UNDER $10 $10-$15 $15-$20 $20-$25& HALF STARS(High Bronze Award): 116 Shot In The Dark South Reillys Ryder Totino Estate Adelaide Wolf Blass President’s% awarded: 23.6% Australia Shiraz Petite Clare Valley Shiraz Hills Shiraz 2008 Selection South Australia Sirah 2010 HHH $9.99 2010 HHH1/2 $13 HHHHH $19.95 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $24NUMBER THREE STARS(Bronze Award): 212% awarded: 43.2%$50-$60 $60-$70 $70-$80 $80-$90 $90-$100Reynella Basket Pressed Lindeman’s Limestone Penfolds Bin 150 Bird In Hand Nest Egg d’ArenbergMcLaren Vale Shiraz Ridge Coonawarra Marananga Barossa Adelaide Hills Shiraz The Amaranthine2008 HHHHH $51.99 Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2009 HHHH $75 2010 HHHHH $85 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $65 2010 HHHH1/2 $9962 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT ES T SYRAH & SHIRAZ$25-$30 $30-$40 $40-$50 TnOePwWzINeaESlandWolf Blass Gold Label Gumpara Wines Saltram Mamre Brook 1 Craggy Range Single Vineyard Hawkes BayBarossa Shiraz 2010 Reserve Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Syrah 2010 $31.95 NZHHHHH $28 2010 HHHHH $35 2009 HHHHH $40 2 Elephant Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 $34 NZ 3 Mills Reef Elspeth Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 $45 NZ 4 Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 $59.99 NZ 5 Selaks Winemaker’s Favourite Reserve Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2010 $23.99 NZ 5 Cable Bay Vineyards Reserve Waiheke Island Syrah 2010 $85 NZ 6 Cable Bay Vineyards Waiheke Island Syrah 2010 $45 NZ 7 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2010 $31.99 NZ 8 Craggy Range Le Sol Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2010 $99.95 NZ 9 Kim Crawford Small Parcels Victory Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2010 $33 NZ 10 Coopers Creek Reserve Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2010 $45 NZ fTrOaPnWceINES 1 E.Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d’Ampuis Appelation Côte-Rôtie Contrôlée 2007 $240 2 E.Guigal Vignes De L’Hospice Appelation Saint- Joseph Contrôlée 2008 $130 3 Domaine Rostaing Ampodium Ampuis Appelation Côte-Rôtie Contrôlée France 2009 $135 4 Paul Jaboulet Aîné La Chapelle De L’Hermitage Appelation Hermitage Contrôlée France 2007 $420$100-$150 $150-$200 $200+ south am erica’sSaltram The Journal Wolf Blass Platinum Henschke Hill of Grace TOP WINEBarossa Shiraz 2006 Label Shiraz 2009 Eden Valley Shiraz 2007HHHH1/2 $120 HHHH1/2 $160 HHHH1/2 $650 Casillero del Diablo Chile Syrah 2010 $11 NOT AWARDED Cono Sur Cochagua Valley Chile Syrah 2008 $9 Bodega Norton Reserva Mendoza Argentina Syrah 2006 $12 WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VII STARTS PAGE 82.

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELReserve at Maleny has set a new standard dishes like Hiramasa kingfish tartare with steamed buns and fill them to order within hinterland dining since its opening in April dill mayonnaise, caviar and crispbread, combo’s like twice cooked pork, sakura2007. The cosy interior of the reproduction delicious char grilled swordfish with labna pickled ginger, hoisin sauce and crispcolonial building, perched on the side of filled pepper, cavalo nero and Sicilian shallots, slow cooked wagyu beef with buttera mountain just outside this busy country salsa and tarator and crispy skin pork belly lettuce, soy pickled shiitake mushroomsvillage, is warmed by an open fireplace on celeriac, apple and walnut remoulade, and red dragon sauce and char grilledand made comfortable by high back calvados jus are on the regular menu, or teriyaki chicken, slaw with julienne carrotleather chairs and classic furnishings. you can indulge in a five-course degustation and mint, Japanese mayo and hoisin sauce.There’s a balcony wrapping around the menu for $100 and $50 extra when matched There are daily specials as well as sweetbuilding that takes full advantage of the with wines (four-courses at lunch for $60). options like fresh banana and salted peanutspectacular views that span all the way Reserve Milton, corner Coronation Drive praline or fresh strawberries with chocolateto the Sunshine Coast. It’s bona fide and Park Rd, Milton; phone (07) 3368 1314. ganache, fresh chilli and toasted flakedchocolate-box country and that’s why it’s almonds and the website thebunmobile.a popular spot for weekend visitors and Il Posto continues to deliver thin based com.au give you the schedule of where today-trippers, while evenings are filled with pizzas and colourful Italian fave dishes find the bun mobile, or you can follow themlocals and the growing population of tree- at its Paddington base and now, if it’s on twitter and facebook. The Bun Mobile haschangers. A much better than average wine seafood you’re after, head downstairs to become very popular with food writers andlist underpins the quality of this venue that the ground level of this shopping complex bloggers probably because you get freshfavours classic modern Australian-style and you’ll find Il Posto Fish Cafe, a little flavours in a light bun that is so different fromcuisine. Sloe gin cured salmon with pickled seafood-centric spot where you can eat regular cafe fare. All produce is sourcedfennel and caper salad, buckwheat blini and in, take away or grab some fresh fish to from within 100km of Brisbane and the buscreme fraiche and twice baked Moreton Bay take home to cook. All the classics are is available for hire for parties and events,bug and white truffle oil souffle with vinegar featured here – salt and pepper calamari, and you’ll also find them at popular festivals.spinach and salmon caviar exemplify the cod fillets with chips and salad, prawn The Bun Mobile; phone 0401 420 922.elegant style in this kitchen and it’s much the cutlets and crumbed whiting, as does fresh www.thebunmobile.com.au.same in their new sister venue of the same barramundi, white bait fritters and smoked salmon croquettes along with mixed It’s never quiet at the Powerhouse Artsname in Milton, in Brisbane’s inner west. platters for two or to feed a family. Pizza Complex, with a plethora of events going onReserve Mark Two also has a great view, slices from upstairs as well as ciabatta’s simultaneously inside the multi-level venuethis time of the Brissie River from the pretty and filled rolls round out the lunchtime and Jan Power’s Farmers Markets wrappingheritage-listed terrace house on Coronation choices and you can have your fish grilled, the exterior with hundreds of stalls groaningDrive. Owners chef Keiran Reekie and front in tempura batter or breaded. 107b Latrobe with fresh produce on every secondman Steve Heffernan are both overseeing Tce, Paddington; phone (07) 3367 3111. Saturday. At Alto, sister restaurant of Ortigathe new venue as well as keeping an eye and as Italian as Ortiga is Spanish, there’s aon their first born, but the kitchen at Maleny Moving and shaking its way around regional Italian lunch thing going on. Owneris now in the capable hands of Englishman Brisbane is veteran chef Harold Fleming’s Simon Hill and his team took the map ofWillie Hughes who also favours edgy Bun Mobile, a new concept offering a small Italy and carved up its various and mostFrench-inspired dishes utilising some of range of addictive Asian-inspired steamed delicious regions into 12 zones, one for eachthe fabulous produce available in and buns filled with a variety of meats and month of the year. July is Veneto and Augustaround Maleny. In Brisbane you’ll find vegetarian options. Everyday Harold and is everyone’s favourite – Tuscany. Menus his wife Christine make a tonne of super-soft look like this: your choice of traditional pumpkin ravioli from Montova with butter and nutmeg or traditional ravioli of Green Mountain veal, sage butter. For main there’s ossobuco – Darling Downs veal shanks braised in white wine, saffron risotto and gremolata or cotoletta alla milanese – pan- fried Gooralie pork chop, lemon and rocket. Two courses is only $35 or you can have crostata di mela – apple tart, milk ice-cream for $44. Powerhouse 119 Lamington Ave, New Farm; phone (07) 3358 1063. Left: Reserve Mark Two interior dining. Above: Casoncelli, a traditional ravioli of green mountain veal and sage butter.64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINIt seems each time I write this column can in-house and keeping outsourcing to Circa The Prince, the restaurant init’s all about more restaurant and cafe a minimum, making yoghurt and smoked the Prince of Wales hotel, St Kilda, wasopenings and while this is still the case, goods onsite. While this is a massive long regarded as an occasion restaurant,the dining landscape is changing and undertaking, the hard work is paying off but this changed in 2012 with the hotelsome well-known classics have morphed in consistent quality of the product being being bought by the Melbourne Pub Group,into new identities acknowledging the old served. 617 Rathdowne St, Carlton North; the group which also owns The Albert Park,but evolving into something new. The way phone (03) 9347 4064. Middle Park, Royal Saxon and Newmarketwe eat is changing and this is evident in hotels around the city. With executive chefplaces like the cafe Small Victories that In an exciting about-face, Simon Denton, Paul Wilson, the group has relaxed the onceopened in June. Owned by chef Alric co-owner of what was the award-winning rigid dining room with the main dining roomHansen and front-of-house manager restaurant Verge on Spring St in the city, being moved to overlook Fitzroy St, withBen Farrant, both business partners closed the space down on New Year’s the balcony and its view of the bay and theare experienced in the industry, Hansen Eve 2011 and has just reopened as two bayside buzz below now prime real estate. businesses in what used to be the one There’s also a cosy, purpose-built bar area and “head chef’s table”, as well as a more casual drinking and bar/dining area where the original outside courtyard once resided. Chef Wilson has kept the head chef from the restaurant’s former incarnation, Jake Nicholson, on in the kitchen and the pair has developed a smart, seasonal and very approachable menu while focusing on what Wilson terms the “Pacific Rim”. Dishes are divided into eight categories and are all paired with appropriate wines. Think cold soba noodle salad, bottarga, caviar andwas most recently at North Melbourne’s restaurant. Downstairs is Nama Nama, a warm sea urchin or calamari grilled on theThe Crimean and Farrant was manager Japanese cafe with coffee from Market Japanese-inspired Robata grill with a greenat Gill’s Diner in the city. Small Victories Lane in Prahran, a bento bench where papaya salad and sticky pork sauce. Mainsresides where the Rathdowne Street you can choose what goes in your bento may include Ranger’s Valley hanger steakFoodstore in Carlton North used to sit. box for lunch as well as nori rolls rolled to with kimchi butter, spring onion puree andIt’s a pretty, leafy part of inner-Melbourne order with fillings such as yuzu kingfish and black radish or a classic pheasant baked inand the shop is larger inside than would zucchini, silken tofu and fresh vegetables hay, chestnuts and truffled potato. It’s stillappear from the street, the striking or wasabi tuna tataki. A highlight of the stylish but far more casual at Circa, a place tospace is sparse in decor, but still made downstairs menu is the udon noodles. sit and have a small plate and glass of winewelcoming with friendly service. The fit- Denton, who owns Izakaya Den on Russell or settle in and make a meal of it. 2 Aclandout is simple and elegant, with gorgeous St with business partners Takashi Omi St, St Kilda; phone (03) 9536 1122.timber throughout and a marble bar and Miyuki Nakahara, has brought theserunning down the centre of the front two to the Spring St fold along with a Udon Above: Circa The Prince interior.room. Behind the bar is a custom coffee noodle specialist chef Yos Uke from Japan.machine bearing a vintage Ford XB The soups will include a choice of variousFalcon badge, a sharp wine selection combinations of ingredients, includingand a sizeable record collection sitting pork, spinach, quail egg; thinly slicedcomfortably next to a beautiful, vintage beef and onion, or tempura prawn andtimber-based turntable. Some highlights vegetable. The trio have turned upstairsof the menu include black pudding into a up-market bar with a decent barwith pickled walnut and roast apple menu and extensive wine and sake list.mayonnaise and the coconut and oil Called Hihou, it’s a cosy den of a space withagave syrup granola with elderflower, leather lounges, plush carpets and a barpoached rhubarb, lychee, organic area over looking the city’s pretty Treasuryyoghurt and berry powder. Hansen is Gardens. 1 Flinders Lane, Melbourne;committed to producing as much as he phone (03) 9639 9500. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 65

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGTHE ORIGINAL Bay Tinh restaurant in includes several northern dishes with French prefer mains such as the Blackmore wagyuMarrickville has been packing them in since colonial overtones such as slow-cooked beef and grain mustard white sauce or blue1985. The founding owner, Tinh Tran, who duck with cumquat sauce and ballottine of eye with Indian spices, curry leaf and Basmaticooked for some of Vietnam’s top dignitaries chicken - a deboned bird filled with spiced rice. Wines by the glass swivel from Villa Wolfbefore arriving in Australia in the late ’80s, shiitake mushrooms. \"Bonfire\" dishes of Pinot Gris from Germany to The Graillot Projecthanded over the reins to his protege, Harry meat, chicken and fish cooked in a pot at No 2 Syrah, but full bottles mainly hail fromHoang, five years ago. The entrepreneurial the table are very popular among diners Australia. A great choice when you're lookingand ebullient Mr Hoang decided to extend the who like to mix drama and intense flavours. for honest-to-goodness food cooked withfranchise to Crow's Nest last November and Another standout, not commonly available brilliance. Bistrode CBD, Level 1, Hotel CBD,the move has produced another smash-hit. at most Vietnamese restaurants, is the light- 52 King St, Sydney; phone (02) 9240 3000. as-air pancake stuffed with prawns, pork Unlike Marrickville, Vietnamese restaurants and bean sprouts. The icing on the cake Cutting edge, smart and not up itself,are thin on the ground on the North Shore is the seven-course tasting menu priced 4Fourteen is the sort of restaurant youso there was an element of risk in the new at $37 per person, which ranks as a major know you will return to again and again.venture. Getting a Kojak parking spot in bargain north and south of the bridge. Colin Fassnidge, of the Four in Hand, oneCrow's Nest is a Mission Impossible day or You can BYO with a $3 corkage charge, of Sydney's top gun chefs, is the guidingnight, so head straight for the Woolworths but the Bay Tinh's wine list is remarkable light behind this casual diner which deliversparking station kitty-corner to the Bay Tinh. for a reasonably-priced restaurant of any the goods, from freshly shucked Clair deDecor isn't the major appeal of the Marrickville ethnicity. Bay Tinh, 16 Falcon St, Crow's Nest; Lune oysters to chicken wing parfait, crispyoutpost and its northside cousin follows the phone (02) 9438 5118. tortilla and quince chutney. You won't findsame cosy, crowded floor plan with the crumbed pig's tail on many menus but thereaddition of a wine bar. Another copycat JEREMY STRODE'S menus at Bistrode could be a revival on the way if Fassnidge'smove is the menu, which eschews the tried- CBD are anchored by the sort of fabulous reworking is any indication. Served withand-true favourites of most Vietnamese British dishes that Rick Stein encounters on crab and corn salad and avocado puree,restaurants such as pho soup and pages his TV rambles through the UK - Scotch broth, this tasty titbit is one of the hottest items onof stir-fries in favour of creative, innovative calf's liver and onions, and whole mackerel a wide-ranging menu. Even if you haven'tdishes that you won't find elsewhere. in green sauce. All cooked with the style and imbibed a huge amount of alcohol that needs \"soaking up\", the Irish breakfast is Hoang mixes the ingredients for the dish flair you would expect at a restaurant with highly recommended at all hours of thesimply called small rice cakes himself one chef's hat in the 2012 Sydney Morning day. A hot frying pan is brought to the tablebecause he wants to keep the recipe a trade Herald Good Food Guide. Strode is no filled with duck eggs sunny side up, chorizosecret. He's on the money. A traditional stranger to stellar ratings, though, following and creamy blood sausage. Still crazy fordish from southern Vietnam, the crunchy a stint at Michel Roux's Michelin 3-Star meat? Try the beef ’n’ bone for two - brisket,outside is a marriage made in heaven, with restaurant, The Waterside Inn at Bray. beef tongue and marrow offset by celeriacthe silky rice flour and coconut custard remoulade, carrots and turnips. Turn upinterior. Such delicacy is hard to mass- The sleek, first-floor dining room at this early to select from the cocktail list servedproduce and doesn't keep for long periods, Merivale-owned city eatery is predominantly at the central bar to stretch out a memorableso the portions of six arrive at the table filled with suits with sophisticated tastes. lunch or dinner at one of Sydney's hottestjust-cooked to perfection. Hoang could I come here for another reason. Strode's new restaurants. 4Fourteen, 414, Bourke St,found a cocktail party business on these wonderfully-named Hearts and Minds is an Surry Hills; phone (02) 9331 5399.scrumptious morsels alone and repeat offal lover's dream dish - deep-fried lamb'svisitors always order them. The large menu brains and tartare sauce with lamb's hearts Left: Bay Tinh resturant. Right: Bay Tinh’s pork skewers. and bitter greens. More squeamish friends66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNMandurah, less than an hour’s drive south 50 guys lunching here mid-week with only is popping up everywhere like agave plantsof Perth, has some stunning waterways, two or three ladies sipping a white wine. in a desert. So my mate in wine and I dropmulti-million dollar homes on canals, prestige And it is red wine the fellas come for. The in to The Flying Taco for a quick lunch andwaterfront apartments, some of the safest Court is well known for its restaurant which to taste a couple of bottles of new wine. Thisand best fishing/crabbing in the west, but it is wallpapered in bottled wine, well pretty is not a place for intimate dining; it is moreis a backwater when it comes to restaurants close to it. Some tables spend up to 10 times a take-away venue with a few plastic tablesand good food. It has been for decades. The their food bill on wine. It is a mecca for wine and chairs for desperates. We ask for aMonaghan family of the Subiaco Hotel has reps and scribes, stockbrokers, lawyers, real couple of wine glasses and are shown plastica plan to change that. It has leased a space estate agents and the police and unionists, cups, so a quick exit to the car boot saw usin the new Sebel Hotel development and who have offices nearby. The food served is equipped with appropriate stemware. Theopened M on the Point Restaurant right rustic Macedonian and nostalgic Australian, food here is freshly prepared, delightfullyon the boardwalk in the city centre. Ivan which suits gutsy, old-style red wines and a spicy without being too chilli-hot. A coupleMather, the celebrated chef at the Subi, and of meat tacos with fresh salsas ($10 for two)what a name for food that hotel has, was truckload is sold each week. 84 Beaufort St, and a sticky spicy pork belly with Spanishrattling the pans at M when I visited for the Perth; phone (08) 9227 1200. onion and rice ($18) rekindle my modestinaugural Peel Wine Association Long Table interest in Mexican cuisine. BYO liquor, noLunch and I was wowed by the chef’s effort. I made a vow about 15 years ago never to bookings, plastic cutlery. 40 Angove St,It was the best restaurant food I’ve had in venture into another local Mexican restaurant North Perth; phone (08) 9227 6393.Mandurah and I’ve been a frequent visitor for after one of the worst meals I’ve had andmany years, although mainly to visit friends little wine to soak up my sorrow, as the only The Perth city centre has never seen asand for nautical pursuits. I’ll be down there corkscrew in the place bit the dust. I did find much activity in the hospitality sector as itagain shortly to sample Mather’s dishes off a waiter’s friend in my car, but it didn’t rescue has lately with the development of Brookfieldthe menu. The problem Mandurah has is that the situation, the night was a shocker. The Place on the Terrace. About half a dozen newit lacks a population with disposable income. food then was mass-produced corn bread, restaurants and as many bars have openedIt is made up mainly of retirees and house bottled sauce, minced meats of unknown here in the last couple of months to give the cityowners who are part-time visitors, and it and suspicious provenance and limp salads. a touch of sophistication and respectability. All Times do change and TexMex, Dude Food, they need now is patronage and they’ll get thathas a large low socio-economic fringe. Mod Mexican or whatever you like to call it, at lunch and post-work, but the Perth CBDRestaurants simply haven’t had the turnover to has always been notoriously slow once thebe successful in the past, but the Monaghans sun goes down. It seems most prefer to havewill give this new venture a decent shake. I dinner in the ‘burbs. The newcomers will bewish them luck. 1 Marco Polo Drive, Mandura; pinning their business hopes on more thanphone (08) 9534 9899. daylight trading and the continuing mining prosperity will help. A couple of new city hotels Phil Andronovski, owner of the Court Wine would also be handy, as occupancy and roomBar and Cellar Restaurant, congratulated rates here are breathing rarified air at theme when I facilitated a WA Wine Press Club moment. Somewhere to eat is fine, but “outQuiz night at his restaurant recently. “You of town” visitors need a roof over their headshave attracted more females tonight than this and at a reasonable rate and then they mayplace has seen in two years,” he quipped. be able to enjoy the restaurants.You see, the Court is a blokey place, fullof testosterone and it’s not unusual to see Above: M on the Point Restaurant interior. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 67

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSWhile the decision by star Barossa menu costing $210 with paired wines, $155 modern Italian cooking you’d be hardchef Mark McNamara to take a “sea food only; and a “du jour” menu of four pressed to equal anywhere in Italy. Dinnerchange” from his role as executive chef dishes, $80 food only and $115 with paired Monday-Saturday. 77 Unley Rd, Parkside;at the acclaimed Appellation restaurant wines. You can expect dishes such as Port phone (08) 8271 1000.is unlikely to see any drop in standards, Lincoln tuna with warm egg yolk, olive Less costly, but still a treat for diners isit does open the way for new stars to and harissa – matched with 2011 Hentley Bistro Dom, which has seen a change ofemerge. One of them is likely to be Farm grenache rose; Berkshire pork belly ownership with the departure of its founderLachlan Colwill, a Barossa boy originally with passionfruit sauce, radish and laba Ben Johnson and his wife Dominika, afterwho has worked in Salters and 1918, with 2009 shiraz; followed by mandarin, whom the restaurant was named, andand trained at top restaurants around caramel, fig and ginger ice cream with the arrival of UK-trained chef Duncanthe world before taking over the kitchen the 2011 The Noble Experience. Lunch Welgemoed. Johnson set out to create aat The Manse in North Adelaide. Despite Thursday - Sunday and dinner Saturday. “café du coin” like those on almost everyits already fine reputation he guided it to Corner of Gerald Roberts and Jenke roads, backstreet corner in Paris, and that’s exactlynew heights, being awarded the Best Fine Seppeltsfield; phone (08) 8562 8427. what he achieved. Tables stretch side byDining Restaurant three years running Back in Adelaide, one of the city’s side the length of this narrow restaurant, a(from 2008-2010), as well as the Best top dining experiences is to be found banquette on one side, classic bentwoodRestaurant and Best Chef awards in 2010 at Vincenzo’s Cucina Vera, but few chairs on the other, while its high ceilingsin the SA Restaurant and Catering awards. Adelaide restaurants have managed to allow the upper walls to become an artNow Colwill is happy to be returning to the divide customer opinion so intensely. gallery. Welgemoed has brought seriousBarossa Valley with a new vision that he’s The fact that owner-chef Vincenzo La culinary craft to the place, making almostputting into practice as executive chef in Montagna provides neither menu nor everything in-house from the bread anda new restaurant venture at Hentley Farm wine list, and the end bill is likely to top butter to Bayonne-style ham which might beWines, surrounded by the rolling hills of the $300 for two, is clearly unacceptable paired with a celeriac and apple remouladevineyard and set on the banks of Greenock to some customers. On arrival you’re with white truffle oil. The prix fixe lunch menuCreek. “I’ll be heading up a kitchen that advised “we do things a little differently” is good value at $32 for two courses andwill be a continuous think tank of ideas in – and they do. Vincenzo cooks individual a glass of wine, with dishes such as wildfood, connecting with the guests that visit degustation menus for each table.Hentley Farm, and being part of a team that At its best it’s marvellous with almost mushroom soup with white truffle oil, truffledstrives for excellence in every aspect, from everything, including stunning salumi, spelt risotto with Woodside goat’s curd orvineyard to wine to food to experiences,” made in-house. The downside is you a classic steak frites. Main course dishesColwill says. “Joining Hentley Farm has have no control over matching food and might include roasted chestnut risotto orprovided an opportunity to also focus on wine – you just have to take what they thinly sliced compressed lamb’s heart withother areas in food such as farming and provide. When Wendouree Muscat of crisp sweetbreads, while traditionalistsforaging on the Hentley Farm site, which Alexandria was poured to go with an won’t want to miss the roast cote de boeufis already a great source of inspiration as as yet unidentified savoury course, one plus frites with aioli. The wine list includesa chef, and to create a dining experience could only guess it would be a pork dish an extensive selection of premium Frenchthat is unique to the region.” Located in and the matching was, in fact, fabulous. wines. Lunch Monday-Friday, dinnerrestored but still rustic stone stables with You’re given an approximate price per Wednesday-Saturday. 24 Waymouth St.exposed rafters and slate floors, Colwill course (around $20) and advised that Adelaide; phone (08) 8231 7000.offers two set menus – a “discovery” tasting anything less than four courses plus dessert might possibly be inadequate. Above: Appellation Restaurant © SATC. It’s theatrical – the salumi was presented stretched out in a sealed black envelope and eaten with fingers; it’s luxurious – a highlight was a thick, fresh, locally sourced porcini “steak” with gremolata and a buffalo mozzarella foam, while the handmade orecchiette came with the most wonderfully intense hare ragout. For dedicated diners it’s value for money: only 30 covers, hugely labour intensive – and all done by Vincenzo on his own (which can lead to long delays), top produce, excellent wines and a style of68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au

winewords G L E N C O O P E RSKYE MURTAGH2012 is a significant year for Coopers, Sparkling Ale and Best Extra I tend to drink the whites fairly quickly.with Australia’s largest remaining family- Stout, Thomas founded a It’s also heavy with South Australianowned brewery celebrating its 150th brewery in Leabrook, South wines as I particularly like the whites fromAnniversary and marking the occasion Australia, in 1881. Carrying the Adelaide Hills and the Eden Valley.with the release of a brand new beer - the the Coopers legacy into the My preference is for reds from the Barossa.aptly named Celebration Ale - in May. The 21st Century are cousin’sseeds for this iconic South Australian- Tim (managing director) and What wine takes pride of place inbased business were sown almost by Glenn Cooper (chairman the collection?accident in 1862, when Thomas Cooper and marketing director). My prize is Rockford Basket Pressbrewed a restorative beverage for his Like Tim, Glenn is a fifth- Shiraz as I’m a good friend of Robertsick wife, following a family recipe. generation Cooper. Far from O’Callaghan. I have quite a few old ones.Locals caught on and the brew quickly walking straight from his With the whites, I really like some of thedeveloped a reputation beyond its tertiary studies into the family new pinot gris being produced in themedicinal powers! In response to the business, Glenn forged his Adelaide Hills - especially Paracombe.demand for what became known as his own successful career in the field of computing before What occasion might prompt you to joining the brewery in 1990. break open these bottles - and who Over the past 12 years Glenn’s might you share it with? managed the launch of a With the special ones I hold them off for range of products, including drinking for a special occasion with family. Coopers Mild Ale, Dark Ale, Extra Strong Vintage Ale and Is there a separate beer collection? Coopers Lager - and his focus No, I tend to drink it pretty regularly. remains fixed on continually Besides, when you have a brewery it’s expanding the company’s made every day. footprint both within Australia and overseas. What measures do you take to protect your wine collection? Was your first drinking Both my cellars were purpose built. experience with beer or wine? The room in the family home sort of backs Growing up in a family with into the hill side, so it’s naturally a nice cool a brewery, it’s probably location. The cellar at our beach house is not surprising that my first fully insulated. experience was with beer. I recall my father giving me a Name the most memorable bottle of little sip from time to time when wine you’ve ever consumed and why I was walking around with him you’ll never forget the moment. at his office! It was a bottle of Rockford Basket Press Shiraz which we opened at the Coopers Ale What generally prompts your choice House to celebrate keeping Lion Nathan of beverage? from buying Coopers. When the battle was When I’m out for a meal or at home, I’ll won it was a good wine to celebrate with. always have a beer to start with and then over food I’ll have a glass of wine. Typically Have your wine tastes changed over it’ll be a white wine, but occasionally a red. the years? Yes, particularly in whites. I was very Do you collect wines - and if so, how strongly into sauvignon blancs from New would you describe your personal stash? Zealand when they came out, but now Yes, I keep a few wines - and have a cellar I’ve moved over to some of the Adelaide at the family home and our beach house. Hills’ pinot gris and rieslings. I think it’s I don’t keep an enormous amount but I a case of your palette changing over the like picking up good quality bottles and years plus some of the winemakers from having them available in the form of a small regions like the Adelaide Hills are just cellar. My cellar is weighted with reds, as making excellent wines these days.70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

Where’s the most unusual place ARTWINEyou’ve consumed wine – recall thecircumstances and name “the drop”! Refreshingly DifferentIt’s not that unusual a place but it was at Winestate Wine of the Year8.30am in the morning on my boat aftercatching a big snapper. We’d headed out Exotic Winesvery early and the catch was definitely worthy Vineyard Accommodationof cracking open a bottle and celebrating! Adelaide Hills & Clare ValleyComplete this sentence – “A great wine 61 (0)411 422 450is like ....”... a vintage Coopers’ beer - something [email protected] and to be savoured! www.artwine.com.auWhat are your thoughts on matchingbeer and wines with a meal?I think you can definitely match them all up.I’d probably start a meal with a Coopers62 or a Sparkling Ale. The 62 is a pilsnerlager beer so it has a good malty flavourand the Sparkling Ale is just an iconicCoopers’ beer. It’s really the Grange ofCoopers - big and flavoursome! ThenI’d go into a white wine, something like apinot gris, or I might have a red if I hadsteak. I’m not a mad, sticky, wine person,so that’s why I’d finish with a cleansingale - probably a Pale Ale.If you could choose to share aglass of wine with one person in thewinemaking world - from the past orthe present - who would it be & why?Definitely Robert O’Callaghan fromRockford, because he and his winery area little like Coopers. It’s a small winery andhe’s stayed true to what he knows bestand he’s very proud of that. He’s stuck tohis position and not moved around in afickle way, as some people do - lookingfor what’s the newest and latest hot topic.That approach is similar to the Cooperfamily style.What’s your favourite wine and beeraccessory and why?I like using a good quality decanter for redwine, to air it properly. Mostly I drink beerout of the bottle. It’s a little out of laziness,but it’s also often the most practical optionwhen you’re drinking socially. That said, ifI do drink out of a glass it should be a tallpilsner-style glass because the aromasdon’t escape as easily. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 71

bookwormsCHARLES GENTDYING ON THE VINE: UNQUENCHABLE THE WEST AUSTRALIANHOW PHYLLOXERA WINE GUIDE 2012TRANSFORMED WINE By Natalie MacLean Published by the Penguin Group (USA) By Ray JordanBy George Gale RRP $24 Published by West Australian PublishersPublished by University of California Press RRP $24.95RRP $59.95 In the preface to this book, Natalie MacLean styles herself a “good-time Ray Jordan is a no-nonsense veteran winePhylloxera, a small yellow-brown insect with wine gal” and then sets out to prove her judge and journalist in WA, and in the Westan improbably complicated life cycle, was point. Unquenchable’s eight chapters are Australian Wine Guide has produced aresponsible for an agricultural cataclysm more like episodes of a fast-moving TV publication in his own image. In its 10ththat devastated wine-grape growing documentary than prose. Professing to edition, this solid, medium format bookaround the world in the late 19th century. be concerned with wine that gives value proffers bottle-by-bottle reviews andThis thoroughly researched history tracks for money doesn’t prevent Maclean from winery guide to WA’s teeming industry.the progress of the epidemic and describes talking to some of the world’s leading Wineries are divided by region, beginninghow, in the end, complete disaster was winemakers – Australia, for instance, is with the Perth cluster before moving on toaverted. The crisis, as it spread across represented by Blass, Henschke and Geographe, Margaret River, Pemberton,Europe, then on to South Africa and Gago. She does, however, steer clear of the Manjimup, Blackwood Valley and Greateventually to Australia, produced one of the money traps of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Southern. Essential facts about each wineryfirst outings for what the author dubs “Big And while the Douro gets a shake-down are on a strap above the reviews, whichScience”, a co-operative and co-ordinated for its port, the less trampled territory of award each wine points on the inevitableresponse by scientists, governments and Provence, New Zealand, Sicily, Canada, 100-point scale, with Jordan’s graciousprivate proprietors. But as the author South Africa and Argentina all get the proviso that the ratings are subjective.relates, there were numerous cul-de-sacs patented MacLean roller-coaster treatment. Unlike some others of its genre, theand fiery debates before the rational If there is a breathless, tabloid quality to the spacious format of the Guide permits a largesolution - the daunting task of replanting style, you can’t deny its pithiness and good font that makes the text easily readable andmost of the world’s vineyards on resistant humour. Each of the chapters is packed also allows room for photos of virtually everyAmerican rootstocks - was adopted and with historical and winemaking facts, and label, something which brought home howundertaken. The book also reminds us that while I did spot a couple of factual errors, many Western Australian wines I have yetthe grape louse cannot be consigned to the her nutshell summaries of classification to sample. While Jordan is obviously proudpast: it plunged Californian winegrowing and vinification are masterfully succinct. of the WA stalwarts of cabernet sauvignon,into chaos as recently as the 1980s and Sometimes the breeziness seems a little chardonnay and the ubiquitous SSB, andstill lurks in the soil of the eastern states calculated; she insists on referring to has high praise for the usual suspects in theof Australia. Not too many histories tout a riesling maker Dr Ernst Loosen as “Ernie”, form of Cullen, Cape Mentelle and Leeuwinbug as their villain, but there is no lack of and her trip to Australia leads off with a riff Estate, he enthusiastically endorses severaltwists and turns in the saga of the sinister on poisonous snakes, while for South Africa more recent winemaking players and somevastatrix and the ingenious men who fought it’s sharks. But like her favourite wines, of the neophyte varieties. I really think it’sit, if not to the death, at least to a standstill. MacLean offers excellent value for the price. time to cross the Nullarbor.72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human andOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above their own preference will influence theirare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, scores. We use judges with complementaryprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 backgrounds and a three-person panel forguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but each flight will include winemakers withachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there technical expertise and often a marketing/in an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ retail expert who knows consumer tastes.There are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system Often one or more of the judges are Mastersand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means of Wine with vast international experience,we approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. and most judges have experience at majorA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system Australian wine shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, forWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more example, we will have a winemaker judgeprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other from that region because that person knowsclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the the local style. We may balance that with aregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne judge from outside the region and generallywines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. someone with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissensionthey re-taste the wines and come to an HHH Good Bronze 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82agreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 73

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2005 $260 2002 $140 Armagh Shiraz Quintet  1999 $400 1998 $190 WINES 2006 $250 2004 $190 1990 $200 1990 $160  2000 $420 1999 $95 2005 $120 1991 $180 1991 $80 2001 $370 2000 $80 BASS PHILLIP 2006 $120 1992 $120 1992 $90  2002 $450 2001 $85Premium Pinot Noir CLONAKILLA 2007 Not Released 1993 $110 1993 $80 2003 $400 2002 $110 Shiraz Viognier 2008 $140 1994 $130 1994 $90 2004 $460 2003 $100 1990 $75 1990 $65 1995 $130 1995 $100 2005 $420 2004 $95 1991 $90 1993 $65 Meshach 1996 $180  1996 $120 2006 $500 2005 $95 1992 $95 1994 $85 1990 $75  1997 $150 1997 $110 2006 $95 1993 $80 1995 $65 1991 $85 1998 $220 1998 $160 Bin 707 2007 $80 1994 $110 1996 $100 1992 $80 1999 $130 1999 $100 1980 $180  2008 $95 1995 $80 1997 $130 1993 $70 2000 $120 2000 $120 1981 Not Released 2009 $75 1996 $110 1998 $150 1994 $90 2001 $140 2001 $110 1982 $150 1997 $140 1999 $55 1995 $65 2002 $190 2002 $110 1983 $160  THREE RIVERS 1998 $110 2000 $90 1996 $85  2004 $140 2003 $90 1984 $190  Chris Ringland 1999 $110 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2005 $120 2004 $110 1985 $170 2000 $110 2002 $130 1998 $110 2006 $160  2005 $110 1986 $220 Shiraz 2001 $180 2003 $100 1999 $85 2007 $95 2006 $90 1987 $180  1990 $520 2002 $145 2004 $100 2000 $70 2007 $70 1988 $190  1991 $650 2003 $110 2005 $110 2001 $110 Chardonnay 2008 $95 1989 $180 1992 $550 2004 $110 2006 $100 2002 $95 Art Series 1990 $220  1993 $650 2005 $80 2007 $150 2003 $55 1991 $220 1994 $650 2007 $120 2008 $90 2004 $70 1990 $60 1992 $200 1995 $450 2008 $80 2009 $95 2005 $65 1991 $60 1993 $180 1996 $710 2009 $85 1992 $70 1994 $200  1997 Not Released GREENOCK 1993 $65 1995 Not Released 1998 $850 BINDI Cabernet Merlot CREEK 1994 $85 1996 $220 1999 $600Block 5 Pinot Noir 1999 $95 1995 $100 1997 $190  2000 $4501997 $80 2000 $70  Roennfeldt Rd 1996 $65 1998 $280 2001 $8501998 $95 2001 $110  Shiraz 1997 $90 1999 $200 2002 $8001999 Not Released 2002 $90  1998 $70 2000 Not Released 2003 $5002000 $150 2003 $85  1995 $280 1999 $75 2001 $1902001 $120 2004 $90  1996 $260 2000 $75 Bin 95 Grange 2002 $180 Shiraz2002 $110 2005 $85  1997 $160 2001 $80 1951 $45,000 2003 Not Released 1990 $1452003 $85 2006 $70  1998 $350 2002 $75 1952 $17,000 2004 $200 1991 $1302004 $110 2007 $85  1999 $180 2003 $80 1953 $14,000 2005 $200  1992 $802005 $120 2008 $90  2000 $220 2004 $90 1954 $10,000 2006 $180 1993 $902006 $90 2001 $240 2005 $75 1955 $3,200 2007 $160 1994 $1202007 $110 2002 $320 2006 $70 1956 $13,000 2008 $190 1995 $952008 $110 2003 $200 2007 $85 1957 $12,000 1996 $1602009 $90 2004 $210 1958 $4,100 1997 $702010 $95 2005 $250 MOSS WOOD 1959 $2,000 Bin 60A 1998 $140 Cab Sauv 1960 $1,500 1962 $4,000 1999 $80 Hill of Grace 1961 $1,600 2004 $460 2000 $70 1980 $250 1990 $130 1962 $1,600 2001 $95 Graveyard Shiraz Command Shiraz 1981 $230 1991 $150 1963 $1,000 Stonewell Shiraz 2002 $150 1990 $90 1990 $120 1982 $220 1992 $120 1964 $1,100  11990 $90 2003 $80 1991 $95 1991 Not Released 1983 $220 1993 $100 1965 $550 1991 $70 2004 $120 1992 Not Released 1992 $100 1984 $210 1994 $100 1966 $700 1992 $60 2005 $130 1993 $75 1993 $65 1985 $280  1995 $100 1967 $700 1993 $65 2006 $130 1994 $80 1994 $95 1986 $340 1996 $100 1968 $550 1994 $55 2008 $100 1995 $70 1995 $75 1987 $220 1997 $100 1969 $550 1995 $55 2009 $130 1996 $95 1996 $95 1988 $320 1998 $150 1970 $400 1996 $70 1997 $75 1997 $80 1989 $260  1999 $130  1971 $780 1997 $55 Para Liqueur 1998 $110 1998 $90 1990 $460 2000 $110 1972 $400 1998 $80 1878 $2,000  1999 $90 1999 $60 1991 $400 2001 $120 1973 $400 1999 $75 1879 $1,200 2000 $100 2000 $65 1992 $250  2002 $85 1974 $400 2000 $70 1880 $800 2001 $80 2001 $65 1993 $260  2003 $85 1975 $400 2001 $65 1881 $800 2002 $75 2002 $80 1994 $340 2004 $80 1976 $580 2002 $70 1882 $1,000 2003 $80 2003 $60 1995 $300 2005 $90 1977 $400 2004 $85 1887 $800 2004 $80 2004 $70 1996 $460 2006 $65 1978 $400 2005 $60 1893 $1,000 2005 $85 2005 $65 1997 $320 2007 $75 1979 $380 1899 $1,000 2006 $100 2006 $65 1998 $420 2008 $85 1980 $360 Basket Press 1901 $650 2007 $90 1999 $380 1981 $400 Shiraz 1908 $550CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $360 1982 $370 1910 $500 GIACONDA 2002 $440 1983 $430 1990 $150 1922 $350 Astralis Shiraz Chardonnay 2004 $380 1984 $370 1991 $140 1925 $600 1994 $200 1990 $110 2005 $350 1985 $400 1992 $95 1927 $280 1995 $200 1991 $60 2006 $310 1986 $550 1993 $75 1930 $120 1996 $300 1992 $85 1987 $350 1994 $90 1933 $110 1997 $200 1993 $90 1988 $350 1995 $65 1939 $80 1998 $260 1994 $100 1989 $360 1996 $140 1944 $70 1999 $260 1995 $85 1990 $580 1997 $95 1947 $55 2000 $270 1996 $130 1991 $480 2001 $290 1997 $90 1992 $380 2002 $330 1998 $125 1993 $360 2003 $210 1999 $110 1994 $380 2004 $350 2000 $110 1995 $370 2001 $110 1996 $500 1997 $360 1998 $58074 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

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wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts strengthened buyer’s confidence and demand for classified wines. This trend is LANGTON’S WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS based on careful market analysis and a more AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (SECOND QUARTER MARKET REPORT) cautious approach to the market in general, Weekly Wine Auctions Second quarter 2012 has seen steady sale but aligns with the sentiment of the times. (held on Wednesdays) conditions at Langton’s. This is against The speculative bubble that prompted many Sydney: August 29-September 5 a back-drop of mixed signals emanating buyers to invest in speculative wines burst Melbourne: September 5-12 across the broader economy. The overall spectacularly during the GFC, with many Sydney: September 12-19 market sentiment is realistic, with vendor collectors turning to wines with strong Melbourne: September 19-26 expectations now closer aligned with market pedigree and secondary market track record. Sydney: September 26-October 3 conditions. Buyers are seeking out quality Melbourne: October 3-10 and value, represented by sales of Australian Several large format bottles proved Sydney: October 10-17 blue chip wines underpinned by enduring very attractive to collectors in the second Melbourne: October 17-24 brands like Penfolds and Henschke. quarter with strong results for an imperial Sydney: October 24-31 of 1996 Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz Stock entry cut-off is 10 days prior The doom and gloom in Europe doesn’t ($948), a 1990 Wendouree Shiraz magnum seem to be infiltrating the fine wine market, ($619) and a double magnum of 1998 Wolf STERLING WINE here or overseas. In March, Sotheby’s in Blass Black Label - signed by Wolf Blass AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE London recorded its second biggest result ($466). Increasing demand for premium August 31-September 12 in the company’s history for a London pinot noir was also noted. (consignment deadline: August 27) wine sale. An astonishing £2.7 million September 28-October 10 sale comprised mostly of top Bordeaux Australian rarities from the 1950s and (consignment deadline: September 24) and Burgundy. At Langton’s, demand ‘60s are making fewer appearances in November 2-14 for the top echelon of French wines also auction with supply rapidly dwindling. When (consignment deadline: October 29) continues to grow - buoyed by the strong available they attract considerable attention Australian dollar, an increased availability in and firm price realisations eg: a 1957 Mount ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS the marketplace and a growing number of Pleasant Hermitage Shiraz ($346), a ‘67 September 18 collectors seeking out these wines. Seabrook Wines Wendouree Shiraz Mataro (closes August 17) ($347), and an 1891 and 1878 Seppelt Para October 23 The wines in Langton’s Classification of Liqueur Port ($2704 and $2473). Penfolds (closing September 21) Australian Wine V continue to underpin Grange continues to show resilience, partly the secondary wine market. The demise buoyed by the assertive release price of GRAYSONLINE of the cult wine scene and the current lack the 2007 vintage. Grange auction prices Daily wine auctions (featuring a of innovation in the upper-most premium remained steady during the second quarter range of red and white wines, and end of the Australian wine market have and although top vintages usually attract regional and country-specific sales) the strongest prices, scarcity of supply can also play a role. A magnum of the less- CRACKA WINES heralded millennium vintage 2000 attained Live wine auctions every day $1024. Rare bottles of Penfolds wines at 1pm and 8pm on weekdays and from the 1960s also performed well with 8pm on weekends 1967 Penfolds Bin 389 achieving $284, ‘69 Penfolds Bin 707 ($369) and $2875 for a half ViN AUCTIONS bottle of 1962 Auldana St Henri. The scarcity - FINE AND RARE WINES of bottles from the 1950s is driving up For auction dates go to www. prices - with a 1951 Penfolds Bin 1 Grange vinauctions.co.nz signed by Max Schubert achieving $51,753 and $14,950 paid for a 1954 Bin 12 Grange. (All dates subject to change without notice) The market for prized Bordeaux and Burgundy vintages is very robust, with strong bidding levels and price realisations. This segment’s growth can be attributed to numerous influences, including the strong Australian dollar, the increasing availability of these wines in the market-place and a greater knowledge and appreciation of them within Australia. Highlights included a bottle of 2000 Chateau Ausone ($2530), a 1990 Le Pin ($2539) and a 1986 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild ($2185).76 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

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wine investment & collectingTop notch Burgundy was also sought after clearances for a number of cabernets, shiraz through to early 2000s, and the 2008.with a double magnum of 2000 Emmanuel and the shiraz/malbec blend. While much of the Grosset riesling on offerRouget Echezeaux attaining $2300 anda bottle of 1985 Henri Jayer Echezeaux, The hot item was the offering of several was passed in, 2007 Leeuwin Art Seriesachieving $4543. Bundaberg Black Label rums, fetching over Chardonnay cleared well. De Bortoli’s Noble $300 a bottle. Highest hammer price paid One failed to attract buyer attention. Langton’s predicts the market to continue was $1136 for a re-corked 1960 Penfoldsalong a steady trajectory. Although the Grange. Biggest surprise was the buyer There were three cabernet standouts:upper-most echelon of fine wine has been who paid 16 per cent above the top of the 2003 and ‘04 Cullen Dianna Madeline, 2000driven up spectacularly by increased demand guides for a 1998 Lindeman’s Jackie Chan Mount Mary Quintet and Wynn Cabernetfrom Asia and a string of great vintages, Reserve Release Shiraz magnum. Biggest (1998 through to 2002). As always, Penfoldsthe majority of the secondary market has disappointment: the lack of buyer interest comprised the largest section in theseen a return to normal market conditions in the large offering of Orlando St Hugo. catalogue with good clearances for Binscharacterised by modest growth and an 389, 707, RWT and St Henri. With Grange,appreciation of enduring traits, including Domaine Romanee Conti’s famed the small offering of vintages from thequality, value and track-record. It is these Burgundies continued their appeal as did a rare 1960s gained considerable attention whiletraits that under-pin the strength of the offering of Bordeaux’s Chateau Ausone, along clearances were good for the 1990 andsecondary fine wine market, presenting an with other fine Bordeaux first growths. Good those from ‘97 through to 2006.attractive opportunity for buyers and sellers. clearances were recorded for Penfolds Bin 389 and a number of classic Australian fortifieds Of the imports, special vintages of Bordeaux For more information visit www.langtons. from Chambers, Hardys and Stonyfell. After first growths like 1990 Chateau Lafite, ’91com.au. All prices include buyer’s premium. a few months in the doldrums, there’s life yet Chateau Mouton Rothschild and ’76 Chateau in Seppelt vintage dated Para, aided by some Talbot cleared well - as did a large offering ofODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS long overdue re-pricing! champagne. Buyers were also attracted to(MAY AUCTION REPORT, the red burgundies of DRC, Dujac and GuyonBY GRAHAM WRIGHT) Shiraz still dominates the catalogue as and Spanish superstars’ Alion and Vega Sicilia.There was something different about this it excites our bidding public. This month,auction, a sense that a positive element buyers were keen on Balnaves The Tally, The Budget segment of the market hashad returned to the market. Buyers started 2005 Chapoutier/Laughton La Pleiade, proven difficult, but there are always someto loosen their wallets - returning to old 2000 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt, 1990s bright spots. Consumer’s enthusiasm for thefavourites, and a few odd items long ignored Eileen Hardy and 2001 Kalleske Greenock Penost Reserve Shiraz, a relatively unknownwere snapped up. Grange came back into and Veritas Hanisch. Shiraz fanciers also brand, continues to amaze me. The rightfocus and while Hill of Grace was sidelined, returned to Fox Creek Reserve (1994 and combination of robustness, a hint of agebuyers were keen on Henschke Keyneton ’96) and John Duval Entity and Plexus. and fruitiness has made it a crowd pleaser.Estate and Mount Edelstone. The flood of Rockford Basket Press had mixed results, Other highlights include good clearances ofWendouree continues unabated, with good with clearances below average but buyers Annie’s Lane table reds, 2007 Bird in Hand picking up key vintages from the 1990s Cabernet, Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz, Penfolds Koonunga Hill (1996 through 2007) Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What78 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

wine investment & collectingand Wynns red blend and shiraz. For more remains a bargain and highlights the difficulty months Cracka has achieved record resultsinformation visit www.oddbins.com.au. in selling these very top wines in New for premium wines. Perhaps the biggest Zealand. That said, Chateau Lafite is still easy story of the past two months here hasViN AUCTIONS - FINE AND RARE WINES to move, with a bottle of 1990 fetching $1000. been the phenomenal success of a second(SECOND QUARTER REPORT, Less famous Bordeaux names have been batch of 2008 Elmslie Pinot Noir, a premiumBY GILES HINE) clearing well. A 2005 Chateau Faugeres Peby Tasmanian pinot we managed to sell over 100The second quarter has shown good signs Grand Cru St. Emilion ($120), a 1983 Chateau dozen of in an offering a couple of monthsfor fine and rare wine sales in New Zealand, Phelan Segur ($100) and 2005 Chateau La back. This final consignment of this winewith increased appetite for these wines and Tour Figeac ($100) were among the best set even more impressive records, withincreased supply. We’ve been particularly examples. One of the more novel wines to over 400 dozen sold in less than 24 hours,fortunate to source some really interesting sell was a six litre bottle of Champagne Cattier exhausting all the winery stocks in a matter ofcellars in recent months. At the same time, Chigny-les-Roses ($350). Italy has been well hours. What makes such a sale so satisfyingthe collectables market is still suffering from represented with several excellent older is the wine is drawn from one of the oldestpublicity surrounding Simon Mickleson, vintages being put up. Some 1978 Fratelli vineyards in the Tamar Valley - produced bywhich hasn’t been helpful - but we hope Oddero Barolo fetched nearly $200 and a 1996 the sort of small, hands-on winery we like toconfidence will be restored. Asian buyers Fratelli Alessandria Barolo made $95. support. Normally retailing for $42, this goldare certainly becoming more involved in medal-winning pinot noir was selling for thethe market here but their tendency is to buy New Zealand wines continue to sell well and bargain price of just under $15.privately rather than in an online auction. prices, while lower than leading European and Australian wines, are on the rise as our best “Mystery” wines have also continued to Demand for Australian wines is particularly become more well-known. The 2007 Destiny perform in Cracka auctions, with severalstrong and much interest was created by a Bay Magna Praemia again sold for over $230 a well-known super premium wines sellingPenfolds only auction. Grange from varying bottle, Clearview’s Basket Press was another at half price under a mystery label. It didn’tvintages now sells in the $450-$500 bracket notable success with three bottles of the take long for astute customers to work outwhile, of the other Penfolds wines, both the 2009 selling for $125 each - the same price what these mystery Victorian and SA wines2002 and ‘04 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet achieved for a range of Montana the Toms were however, with one premium YarraSauvignon fetched over $230 and Penfolds from 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000 and 2002. Valley chardonnay attracting over 290 bidsRWT Shiraz (1997, 2002 and 2004) all made alone in a single wine auction.over $120 a bottle. A range of lesser known All prices quoted include commissionAustralian reds also generated good interest. and GST.) In other premium auction results,2003 Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, some classic Aussie blue-chips like 19981996 Lake’s Folly Cabernet and 2006 Glaetzer CRACKA WINES Henschke Mount Edelstone hit high auctionBishop Shiraz all sold well ($80-$100). (MAY-JUNE REPORT, prices ($112.50) - although there appears BY ANGUS HUGHSON) to be a softening in “off-vintage” Penfolds As for France, we finally managed to clear While offline retailers continue to report premium prices. The 1987 Penfolds Grangesome 1982 Petrus for close to $4000. This slow trading conditions, over the last three hit just $366 a bottle and 2003 Penfolds September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 79

wine investment & collectingBin 407 reached just $50.50. Conversely, changed in the wine auction business bottles of 1945 Mouton Rothschild havedemand hasn’t abated for some of the since we started in 1993 and Sterling been sold compared to the numbermore celebrated cult wines. 2005 Greenock wants to stay at the forefront of the made? The estimates vary but there areCreek Apricot Block hit $75 per bottle. premium wine secondary markets. We reasonable guesses at 50 per cent. Maybe believe the same dynamics that have many empty bottles have had a second Beyond these super premiums, the best made Amazon and eBay household names, life? The good news is that every premiumperforming wines in auctions continue to be need to power all online operators. Fast, wine made in the last 30 years has beenthose starting at no reserve, with final values efficient and safe are the foundations and awake to the problem. Corks with housefor these items often hitting higher marks than a fabulous selection of in-demand stock is names and vintages go part of the way,if the same wine starts in reserved auctions. the promise that must be delivered. glue that won’t let go of the bottle withoutThese sales tend to have larger numbers of the destruction of the label also makes abidders and more general interest, which push The wine auction universe is an ever- big difference and there are plenty of otherup the final price. Even renowned products like changing place with some changes clever security devices.Mumm Cordon Rouge Champagne hit $70 in shocking and new, until the perspective ofunreserved auctions versus closer to $50 in history tells us it has all happened before. Any venerable premium back vintageauctions with a reserve. Every few years we’re shocked by wine from the 1970s or earlier should be investment editorials or the dark news catalogued by an experienced “expert” A final trend we’ve noticed in auctions that the world’s great wines are being who knows the exact “feel” of wines fromof late is a slight move away from copied. Surely the stories of fakes, knock each generation. Sterling has now handledMarlborough sauvignon blanc in the offs and counterfeits is a good old pot over 8000 bottles of Penfolds Grange.popularity stakes, with chardonnay and boiler that’s real but not a “big” problem? You get “a feel for it”. As important, aother white blends picking up the slack. In regard to “knock offs”, my spin on serious auctioneer will never catalogueThe question now is whether we’ve seen this grey crime is the ruse will never last an important bottle if the providence isthe peak of Marlborough sauvignon blanc long. The elements of subterfuge and doubtful. Always beware buying expensivesales in this country? Time will tell, but no surprise are vital ingredients to pull off wine from small players on the internet orquestioning - many drinkers are looking for such a scam. As soon as the word is out, via general sale sites where the onus is onsomething different in their wine diets. For there goes the opportunity to trick the the relationship between buyer and sellermore information visit www.crackawines. unwitting. As a problem in the auction to resolve problems.com.au. All quoted prices are per bottle with market - I don’t think it is. Usually theno buyers’ premium applicable. “knock off” is made from poor quality, The auction world is always going to be low cost components and just feels and underpinned by good quality, great valueSTERLING WINE looks wrong. Australian shiraz and cabernet blends fromAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE premium producers. Smart chardonnays(JUNE REVIEW, BY LYNTON BARBER) Fakes or counterfeit products are a more accompanied by luscious semillons andSterling is proudly celebrating 100 live serious issue but a very small problem crisp rieslings just about complete theonline internet auctions. Much has that has always lived with us. How many story. Interesting imports from France80 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

wine investment & collectingand Italy is an area gaining attention, but GRAYSONLINE classic producers like Kilikanoon, d’Arenbergnot enough to flush out all the bargains. (MAY-JUNE REPORT, and Two Hands featuring strongly. June alsoMy tip - look at all burgundies, red and BY GREG FITZSIMMONS) saw over 100 pallets come from R Wines, anwhite, particularly wines around 10 years Throughout May and June, Grays more than ambitious project by US wine importer - Danold - and back vintage Bordeaux from the lived up to its reputation for creating real Philips. Character labels like Evil, Bitch, Skullslesser cru classes. Take the risk on 1980’s excitement in the wine auction category. Their and Boarding Pass saw bargains had by all.third and fourth growths. Good cellaring large pool of diverse vendors contributed toand a lucky bottle can produce miraculous an exciting selection of quality offerings. From Grange continues to be strong in demandresults! Recently I enjoyed a beautiful the fabled to the fair in value, it was all there and supply, with early ‘80s and ‘90s vintages1986 Beychevelle - what a delight and to be had as supply bulged in expectation of doing very well. 1972 Grange sold for $604the auction price was well under $100. the end of the financial year. May saw more and the iconic 1994 Bin 920 attained $420. TheOld Hunter semillons and back vintage wines from an iconic Sydney restaurant Penfolds Bin range is also strong. Bins 707 andAustralian rieslings are other bargain areas. come through and some bargains were 389 led the way with great results for vendors.I can’t believe a great wine like Wolf Blass had among the Rockford sparkling, Bass Helped by the celebration of Henschke Hill ofGold Label is selling at auction for under Phillip chardonnay and many interesting old Grace turning 50, the 1992 sold for $380. The$10 a bottle while seriously good riesling world curios. In June, Grays offered one of ‘88 fetched $370. Demand was also strongfrom Jim Barry, Leo Buring and Howard the finest private wine cellars ever seen in for magnums with Wynn’s 1982 CabernetPark are all under $20 - even the 2002. Australia. This extremely impressive private Sauvignon fetching $162. Bargain bottles wine collection included a comprehensive roll- under $50 included mature 1996 Petaluma The potential of the 2010 vintage for call containing virtually every iconic Australian Tiers Chardonnay and 1984 Lake`s Follylong-term cellaring and improvement in wine of the last 25 years. In almost all cases, Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as Torbreck Neckvalue has been a subject of earlier reports. the wines were purchased directly from the Oil Shiraz Grenache and Kaesler WOMS ShirazMy position has strengthened of late. The winery or distributor via personal relationships Cabernet from the pristine 2002 vintage.2010 Mollydooker Carnival of Love and with many of Australia’s finest producers,Enchanted Path are great examples of giving the owner access to many rare wines June was also a great month for whiskeywhat 2010 is capable of. These wines are normally not widely available in retail. fans. A significant cellar in age and size,approachable and enjoyable on release from the famous distillery of Duncan Taylor,but are so heavily layered and tight. I In contrast, a steady supply of bargains was full of Scotch Whisky, including manyrecommend aiming mid-range and picking was led by the clean-up of residual Heritage from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Withup “the usual cellar fodder suspects” from Fine Wines holdings and many private names like “Angels in a sauna” or “HayWynns and Penfolds. Also, have a look superannuation funds offloading before the bales and a horse’s waistcoat” these lotsat the Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz as an end of the financial year. Many of these added an exotic air to June’s auctions. Theindicator of vintage potential. This cheapie wines are drinking really well and shouldn’t be very rare 1963 North British 45 YO fetchedis always a cellar favourite. For more details going for these prices. However, with strong over $1000. For more information visitvisit www.sterlingwine.com.au. supply - customers are the winners with www.graysonline.com. Prices listed don’t include buyers premium. TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Kieran Gallagher on 02 9741 9600 or email [email protected] September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 81

724 TASTED492 AWARDEDWORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH& SHIRAZ CHALLENGE V1IAnother truly great day at the office (actually five days) where each The Tudorday a panel of three judges waded through over 140 wines. It was Central Victoriaa mammoth effort and here presented for you are the results. Shiraz 2010 HHH Spicy, ripe blackberry nose with a peppery lift and similar characters on the palate. $12.99SHIRAZ Quarisa Johnny Q Burra Creek Wines Tail Spin Oddfellows Shiraz& BLENDS South Australia Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Langhorne Creek Langhorne CreekUNDER $10 Shiraz Viognier Thick, viscous, old-school Shiraz 2010 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 style with charry/berry Lifted licorice aromas with 2008 HHHH6 TASTED Pretty violet aromatics nose and big, full-bodied intense, nicely balanced Lovely rich, ripe varietal1 AWARDED on the nose and a very palate with firm tannins. red berry, dark fruit and fruit with excellent fresh, lively young Needs meat! $12 oak flavours. $14.95 use of oak to balance.Although there were few fruit palate with some Pelican Point Upfront sweetness withfaults in this small group, obvious tannins. $11.99 Shiraz 2011 HHH Cow Bombie savoury touches. Long,the judges found they Estery oaky aromas with Margaret River lingering finish. Ageinggenerally lacked freshness SHIRAZ a pretty floral palate Shiraz 2009 HHH well. $19.50and depth and vitality. $10 - $15 that’s well crafted and Lots of floral/violet-like Millbrook Barking easy to drink. $12.99 characters on the nose Owl Shiraz ViognierShot In The Dark 28 TASTED Houghton Verse 1 and a palate of dark 2010 HHHSouth Australia 11 AWARDED Western Australia berries, spices and Earthy, nose lifted redShiraz Petite Syrah Shiraz 2011 HHH vanilla. $12.99 berry aromatics. Palate2010 HHH More of a mixed bag Bright plum nose and has long, persistent, spicy,A pleasant mix of but some tremendous sweet, berry fruit Craftsman savoury flavours. $17.95Christmas pudding and values here among flavours on a fresh, Clare Valley Shiraz Naked Run Hill 5olive tapenade characters. those recommended. vibrant palate. Popular 2008 HHH Shiraz CabernetSome tannins. $9.99 Some good wines from style. $13.99 A solid, complex 2010 HHH all the different vintages. Casillero del Diablo wine with spicy Earthy, meaty nose withSHIRAZ Chile Syrah aromas and good good fruit on the palateBLENDS Reillys Ryder 2010 HHH varietal flavour profile. and nicely integrated$10 - $15 Clare Valley Shiraz Massive colour, Ageing well. $14.99 oak. $18 2010 HHH1/2 powerful oaky nose7 TASTED Soft, clean style with and lightweight palate, SHIRAZ/SYRAH1 AWARDED meaty, blackcurrant with some cheesy-like BLENDS characters, slightly complexity. $11 $15 - $20Tired and developed varnishy oak and some H by Haselgrovewines, with some lesser powdery tannins. McLaren Vale Shiraz 7 TASTEDquality blends. Sweet finish. $13 2010 HHH 7 AWARDED Earthy aromas with a Paringa South plumy lift. Creamy in the A step up from the Australia Shiraz mouth. Interesting spicy previous class - a good, 2009 HHH1/2 flavours. $12.50 solid class. Very interesting, elegant and satisfying Metala Langhorne style. Lovely varietal Creek Shiraz fruit expression Cabernet 2010 HHHH balanced by aromatic A classic wine crimson oak. Ageing well. $10 in colour, with nicely focused blackberry fruit, hints of green olives and a touch of chocolate. Value for money. $1882 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingCurrency Creek Fox Creek Red Thorn-ClarkeEstate Ostrich Hill Baron McLaren Vale Sandpiper BarossaFleurieu Peninsula Shiraz 2011 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHHShiraz Viognier A nicely balanced, Clean, red berry nose2009 HHH medium bodied wine with just a hint of chiliA complex style - hints of with inky hues, dense chocolate! Good palatecranberries and licorice berry/oak aromas and with excellent depthon the nose with pretty loads of flavour on the of varietal flavours andvarietal flavours. $17 palate. Good tannin the tannins in balance. structure. $17.50Taylors Eighty Acres 3-5 $16Clare Valley ShirazViognier 2008 HHH Mojo By Rockbare ShinglebackToasty, earthy, berry Barossa Shiraz Haycuttersbouquet and lots of 2011 HHHH McLaren Valestewed fruit flavours An aromatic, fruit-driven Shiraz 2010 HHHHtempered with viognier style with a tight profile, Chocolaty, leatherysoftness. $15 and showing attractive fragrances with a thread hints of violets and of blackberry fruit andBlack Prince olives that mingle with olive touches. Similarby Shingleback the red berry fruit. characters followMcLaren Vale Shiraz through to the sweetCabernet Sauvignon 3-5 $17.95 palate. 3-5 $16.952010 HHHSpicy, earthy style Hereford Centralwith savoury olive-like Victoria Shiraz Wirra Wirraelements, soft acidity Fox Gordon Eight 2010 HHHH Sparrow’s Lodge Blackstoneand warming oak Uncles Barossa Smells like cloves with McLaren Vale Shiraz Paddock Barossafinish. $15.95 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH quite a peppery character. 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH Wine has good depth of Palate is big and round Smells like Ribena and Lots of nutmeg andSHIRAZ/SYRAH red hues with aromatic, and complex with Worcester sauce! Good other spices on the2011 - 2010 violet/plum aromas; reasonable varietal flavour length of sweet, red nose, and plums and$15 - $20 quite complex. Inky, length. 3-5 $15 berry fruit flavours on a spices fill the mouth with fruit-driven palate that generous, mouthfilling long, lingering flavours.56 TASTED has excellent structure Franklin Tate Estates palate. 3-5 $16.99 Light tannin structure.39 AWARDED and lovely, lifted, ripe Margaret River berry fruit flavours. Built Shiraz 2010 HHHH G. Patritti & Co. 3-5 $19.99Excellent variety herefrom richer, warm-climate to last. 5+ $19.95 Peppery, black olive Old Gate Shiraz Rosemount Estatestyles to the spicy, cool- aromas, with an 2010 HHHH District Releaseclimate ones. Very few Thorn-Clarke James interesting and different A rich wine with an McLaren Vale Shirazfaults and, like the blends Goddard Barossa savoury flavour profile on abundance of vanilla 2011 HHH1/2in this price range, they Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 the mouthfilling palate. oak, but also has some Fruit-driven style.are a real step-up from Savoury nose of salami Good oak integration and obvious blackcurrant “Be great servedthe previous classes. and olives with a thread balance. 3-5 $15.99 fruit to match. Complex chilled on a hot summer“A glowing endorsement of blackcurrant fruit. nose. Flavoursome day,” said one judge.for winemakers,” Palate is peppery and Barossa Valley palate. 5+ $18 Perfumed nose, crispsaid the judges. spicy, with more of the Estate Entourage palate. 3-5 $19.99 blackcurrant fruit flavours Barossa Shiraz Madeleines supported by grainy 2010 HHHH Nangkita Vineyard Burra Creek Wines tannins. 5+ $17.99 Simple blackcurrant Fleurieu Peninsula Princess Royal bouquet with a savoury, Shiraz 2010 HHHH Station South St Hallett Faith earthy palate that Olives and pepperoni Australia Shiraz Barossa Shiraz shows an attractive, on the nose, and meaty 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 floral/perfumed lift. complexity on the Complex, viscous A refined and elegant Quite high level of acid. slightly drying palate wine - very different number. Beautifully with a dash of pepper style. Lots of ripe, lifted fresh blackcurrant 1-2 $16 and good oak/tannin tarry, blackberry fruit, aromas and very polished balance. $19.90 blackcurrant palate that’s hints of mint and drying fresh and bright with tannins. 5+ $15 great acid/oak balance. DAY 1 - JUDGES 3-5 $19Mark Thwaites Greg Tilbrook Adam ClayWinemaker for Lindemans Barossa based winemaking Penfolds winemaker inWines, Karadoc (Victoria). consultant. Formerly senior the Barossa Valley. HasPreviously winemaker winemaker Watson Wine completed vintages atfor Australian Vintage in Group. Former winemaker at Marchesi de FrescobaldiBuronga (NSW). Vintaged Wynns Coonawarra winery in Chianti and Pellegrin inin McLaren Vale and for five years. Previously California. Judge at thecurrently completing winemaker at Amberley Alternative Varieties showAWAC Advanced Wine Estate, Margaret River for six Cairns, Queensland WineAssessment Course. years. Completed a vintage in Awards and Clare Valley Languedoc, France. wine show. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 83

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIKirrihill Regional Taylors Clare Valley Ballast Stone Sandalford SHIRAZ/SYRAHRange Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Windjammer Margaret River 2009 & OLDERShiraz 2010 HHH1/2 A pleasant, savoury style McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH $15 - $20Savoury, oak-driven shiraz with excellent balance 2010 HHH Rich plum conservewith sweet peppermint between berry fruits and Quite a rich, complex bouquet and big, 36 TASTEDtouches to the nose creamy, spicy oak. Good wine with plenty of sweet bold, red berry palate 23 AWARDEDand estery, sweet berry flavour persistence. $19 oak and minty, cherry fruit. with mouthcoating A solid group, moreflavours underneath. Hardys Oomoo tannins. $18.99 forward and less polished McLaren Vale Shiraz 3-5 $17 than the 2010s, but with 3-5 $15 2011 HHH few faults. Drink now. Nice mix of berry Brygon Reserve TerramoreSt Erth Grampians fruit characters with a Pilot’s Watch Coonawarra Shiraz Totino EstateShiraz 2010 HHH1/2 background of toasty Margaret River 2010 HHH Adelaide Hills ShirazHigh acid wine with oak and savoury notes. Shiraz 2010 HHH Quite advanced wine 2008 HHHHHspicy, minty aromas. Pretty floral nose with ready for drinking now. A lovely rich, jammyQuite a floral palate 3-5 $18.99 a mushroomy edge. Savoury aromas and style with hints of pruneswith hints of cherry and Greedy Sheep Delicate but complex chocolaty palate. $19 on the nose. Soft in thebeetroot-like characters. Margaret River savoury palate. $17.99 mouth. Lovely palate Shiraz 2011 HHH Whistler Albert texture and loads of 3-5 $15 A big wine with an Haselgrove First Cut Heinrech Second varietal fruit with plenty earthy touch to the spicy McLaren Vale Shiraz Release Barossa of well-handled oak andWolf Blass Yellow oak nose, and sweet and 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH ripe tannins to balance.Label South spicy fruit flavours. $19 A sound, savoury wine Subdued nose; someAustralia Shiraz Brookland Valley with good length of fruit and florals and 3-5 $19.952010 HHH1/2 Verse 1 dark fruit characters. intense and generousA beautifully balanced, Margaret River Slightly drying tannins. spicy cherry flavours. $19fruit-driven shiraz with Shiraz 2011 HHHbright, lifted aromatics. Pretty violet notes to the 1-2 $18Soft and silky smooth in nose and warm, cherry/ Sanguine Estatethe mouth. 5+ $17 strawberry palate. Virgara Wines Progeny Heathcote Good acid backbone. Adelaide Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHMaxwell 2010 HHH Spicy notes to the varietalSilver Hammer 3-5 $19.99 Spicy, floral bouquet nose. Lots of blackberryMcLaren Vale Shiraz Krondorf Barossa and subtle fruit palate flavours with subtle oaky2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH that’s smooth, long and notes. $19.95Dense blackberry Aromas of plums and complex, with tannicaromas with a vanilla licorice with vanilla, end. 1-2 $18 Zonte’s Footstepedge and upfront, oak lift. Well-balanced, Lake Doctorearthy, mushroom complex palate. Water Wheel Langhorne Creekpalate with violet-like Vineyards Bendigo Shiraz 2010 HHHelements. 1-2 $18 1-2 $15.99 Shiraz 2010 HHH Earthy bouquet with Rosemount A bright, interesting a touch of tar and aCoopers Creek Diamond Label wine smelling of plums lift of spice. UpfrontHawke’s Bay Syrah Shiraz 2010 HHH and licorice, with plumy fruit sweetness on the2010 HHH1/2 A very pretty, cool- persistence to the palate. 3-5 $19.95Lifted, peppery nose climate style with delicate palate. $18with a touch of spice berry fruit and lifted oak Wirra Wirra Sexton’sand loads of pepper on elements. $15.99 Richard Hamilton Acre McLaren Valethe palate. Excellent use McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHof oak. Very moreish! 2010 HHH Elegant savoury shiraz Great use of oak here. with earthy spicy berry 3-5 $19 NZ Nice savoury, chocolaty nose and simple earthy/ aromas and flavours, with black olive palate. $19.99 cherry touches. $19.95DAY 2 - JUDGES Mark Maxwell Luke Steer Owner and winemaker of Associate Winemaker with Shane Harris Maxwell Wines. Born and Jim Barry Wines. Consultant Winemaker for Wines by raised in the McLaren Vale winemaker in Germany’s Geoff Hardy including, wine region, Mark has Pfalz region along with Pertaringa Wines, K1 and been making wine since vintages in Hermitage, Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy 1982, and is a leader in Hawkes Bay, Napa Valley Wines. Has also completed the community. and Frankland River. vintages in Queensland and Organiser at the recent Victoria. Completed the AWRI Clare Valley wine show. advanced sensory course and has associate judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show.84 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingWhitebox Terramore Ekhidna She Viper Reillys Clare Valley WineGrowers DirectHeathcote Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH The Chairman2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 A complex drink. Reserve SelectionA refreshing, simple, Vibrant, lifted berry fruit A wine with oomph! Lots of character. Still Barossa Shirazlighter style of shiraz with violet esters - very Nice aged, secondary showing some varietal 2009 HHHwith lovely purple hues, varietal with a balance characters on the nose fruit, plenty of oak and Light berry bouquet andgreat earthy, spicy of upfront oak and lovely and tarry, textured focused tannins. $18 soft, clean, sweet fruitaromas and delicious soft tannins. $19 palate with firm tannins. Griffin Adelaide Hills palate. Very moreish.blackberry flavours on Craftsman Shiraz 2009 HHH Needs food. $19.99the delightfully creamy Reserve Barossa 5+ $19.95 Good weight of liftedpalate. $19.50 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Beresford blackberry fruit with a TaltarniHand Crafted Complex, tarry, earthy McLaren Vale Shiraz definite spicy, minty T Series Victoriaby Geoff Hardy aromas with nicely 2008 HHH1/2 edge. Quite tannic. $19 Shiraz 2008 HHHLimestone Coast developed flavour Oaky aromas and upfront, Birds of a Feather Distinct ChristmasShiraz 2009 HHHH profile - very rich. Still berry flavours on the Reserve Collection pudding characters onMeaty fragrances with showing some fresh oak-dominated palate. Margaret River both nose and palate,slightly dusty oak. berry notes. $19.99 Interesting wine and still Shiraz 2009 HHH with a spicy, pepperySmooth in the mouth WineGrowers quite fresh. $19.99 Smells like mushroom lift. $16.99with a pleasant balance Direct Whip Baldivis Estate soup! Elegant, liftedof red fruits, peppery Cracker Barossa Frankland River fruit profile on the lovely Koonara Angel’snotes and chocolaty Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH palate. $19.99 Peak Coonawarracharacters. $18 Blackcurrant and An elegant, peppery style Shiraz 2008 HHHHenry’s Drive cedar nose; leathery with great plum fruit/oak Regent Wines Lifted black fruit noseVignerons Pillar Box secondary characters. balance and nice savoury Shiraz 2007 HHH and chocolaty, licoriceReserve Padthaway Sweet/savoury palate, elements. $15 Mature shiraz still some characters on the palate.Shiraz 2009 HHHH lots of oak and very Rockridge freshness. Spicy and At its peak now. $17.95Earthy, briary, berry complex. $19.99 Clare Valley Shiraz peppery with somebouquet and long, Harvey River Bridge 2009 HHH residual sugar and SHIRAZlingering, savoury palate Estate Geographe Medium weight wine with tannins. $18 BLENDSwith a balance of olive, Western Australia nice, simple, mulberry fruit $20 - $25developed fruit and salami Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 persistence and earthyflavours. Needs food. $18 Complexity of aromas complexity. $15 11 TASTED and flavours, with firm Jacob’s Creek 7 AWARDED tannin palate of soft Reserve Barossa plum fruit and spicy oak. Shiraz 2009 HHH A consistent group of Good varietal lift at the Complex, earthy/ good quality wines. end. $15 spicy nose and similar The judges found it Harbord characters on the palate, interesting to see the The Tendril Barossa with slightly drying different styles here, Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 tannins. $17.99 ranging from lighter, red A good drinking, mature Cappa Stone Wines fruit wines to the black wine with savoury fruit Clare Valley Shiraz and savoury. and balancing tannins. 2009 HHH Great weight, nice age “Smells like a fruit bun,” Fox Creek JSM and complexity. $18 thought one judge. McLaren Vale Shiraz Regent Wines Shiraz Earthy, spicy notes mix Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 with developed fruit Cabernet Franc Still has nice freshness flavours. $18 2010 HHHH to it for a four-year- Fragrant, floral nose; old. Vibrant fruit, solid hint of Vegemite. Some tannins and obvious complexity on the palate, residual sugar. Nice with upfront, sweet berry savoury touch. $18 fruit and mouthfilling tannins. Will age well. 3-5 $22.50 DAY 3 - JUDGESTom Newton Duane Coates David NormanSenior white winemaker Winemaker for Cleggett’s, Wine consultant with(and formerly red Coates & Raydon Estate Winewise in Eden Valley.winemaker) with the Wines. Duane has a Former senior winemakerAccolade Wine Company. Masters of Oenology with Hollick Wines andFormerly at Stonehaven from Adelaide University previously Miranda Wines,Winery. Has been with and has gained overseas Wynns and Norman Wines.Hardys for the past 20 winemaking experience Judge and Panel Chairmanyears. For the past three in Burgundy, the Northern at International Wineyears has been an associate Rhone Valley regions in Challenge. Associate judgejudge at the Griffith and France, and the Douro Barossa and LimestoneCanberra wine shows. Valley in Portugal. Coast wine shows. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 85

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIAlkoomi Frankland Mornington Estate Selaks Winemaker’s Hillgrove Wines FiveRiver Shiraz Viognier Mornington Favourite Reserve Geese McLaren Vale2010 HHH1/2 Peninsula Shiraz Hawke’s Bay Syrah Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2Smoky/toasty oak Viognier 2008 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Subtle licorice notes toaromas with a touch of An elegant, cool-climate Big-time peppery nose - the plumy nose. Palatefruit. Good balance of style that’s all peppery a little funky - in a good is clean, lean and bright,ripe fruit and savoury and savoury, and way. Very complex with lovely concentrationflavours, with a spicy, still showing some palate for this price of berry flavours. $22peppery lift. $20 freshness. $22 bracket with really well-balanced oak, fruit Paxton MVEppalock Ridge SHIRAZ/SYRAH and tannins. Good food McLaren Vale ShirazSusan’s Selection 2011 – 2010 wine. $23.99 NZ 2010 HHH1/2Heathcote Shiraz $20 - $25 Thorn-Clarke Shotfire A good commercial style.Cabernet Merlot Barossa Shiraz Earthy on the nose with2010 HHH1/2 51 TASTED 2010 HHHH1/2 a mineral edge. CreamyA complexity of fig jam 29 AWARDED Good example of a in the mouth, very goodand savoury aromas. ripe style of shiraz. oak handling. $20Soft and plumy in the A mixed group with some Big, plumy aromas -mouth. Good flavour excellent wines at the not overly complex. Conte Estate Rockpersistence and oak top of the range, but over Generous palate still Hill McLaren Valebalance. 3-5 $22 extracted or over oaked showing nicely retained Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 ones in the lesser wines. freshness and has good Great peppery lift to theWyndham Estate There’s lots to like about Pirathon by fruit weight. $20 spicy nose. FantasticallyGeorge Wyndham the 2010 vintage providing Kalleske Barossa Kilikanoon generous palate - hugeFounder’s Reserve it has been kept “pure” Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Killerman’s Run length. Good value forBarossa Shiraz and not blended with a Shiraz 2010 HHHH money, agreed theGrenache touch of 2011 wine. Big colour, lovely prune judges. $202008 HHH1/2 characters on the nose;Big and rich but not Pindarie Barossa Very stylish wine with some savouriness. Solid Claymore Winesoverdone. Lovely, rich, Shiraz 2010 HHHHH aromas of black olives palate, good length andlicorice-like fruit, toasty Huge Christmas cake- mingling with dark berry persistence of ripe fruit Walk on the Wildoak and a soft tannin like aromas with lovely fruit. Lovely palate full flavours. $20 Side Clare Valleyprofile on the smooth earthy notes. Powerful, of savoury and ripe Chateau Tanunda Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2palate. $21.99 oak-driven palate but blackberry flavours. A very Grand Barossa A weighty, well- there is an excellent good wine with lots of Shiraz 2010 HHHH balanced wine. Dark balance of tarry, cherry potential. Interesting aromas of cherry and Vegemite-likePaxton AAA and raspberry flavours 3-5 $23 charred beetroot and characters, some pepperMcLaren Vale Shiraz showing through. $20 roasted capsicum with aGrenache 2010 HHH Madeleines leathery note. Medium- and spice comingA complex, jammy/ Wolf Blass Old Vine Willunga weight palate with a very through.meaty wine with a slight President’s Selection Single Vineyard juicy mouthfeel. $23 5+ $20menthol lift and some South Australia McLaren Vale Shiraz Blackbillypeppery notes. $20 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH 2010 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Rockbare A pretty full-on wine; A clean, bright classic 2010 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale ShirazWyndham Estate loads of flavour. Almost with a brambly chocolaty Big colour, subdued 2010 HHH1/2George Wyndham black in colour with bouquet and big alcoholic nose and good balance Simple cloves and cherryFounder’s Reserve forest fruit fragrances lift. A full-bodied, of oak and fruit on a nose. Good, clean,Limestone Coast and long, dense palate warming palate that has flavoursome palate. sweet fruit flavoursShiraz Cabernet with lovely interplay very ripe fruit characters. Quite savoury with with some obvious oak.2009 HHH between black and red Shows balance and drying finish. $20 “Made to a style,” saidDark, inky-fruit bouquet, fruits - some gum leaf persistence. $24 one judge. $21.95creamy in the mouth notes. $24with nice savoury Mr Riggs The Gafferflavours and hints of McLaren Vale Shirazolives. $21.99 2010 HHH1/2 Powerful oak nose with some lovely inky intensity. A hot, drying palate is brimming over with varietal flavours. $22DAY 4 - JUDGES Phil Lehmann Charles Hargrave Winemaker for Teusner Chief winemaker for Mario Criado Wines. Associate judge at Ingoldby Wines and Winemaker for Serafino the Barossa wine show. Maglieri, Beringer-Blass Wines. Formerly Graduate Diploma of and also sparkling winemaker for Boar’s Oenology from Adelaide winemaker for the Rock, Ben Riggs & Villa University. Formerly white Yellowglen label. Has Tinto. Has vintaged and sparkling winemaker at made wine in McLaren overseas at Cazal-Viel in Yalumba Wines, and also Vale since 1983. Formerly France & Golden State with Peter Lehmann Wines. red winemaker for the vintage in California. Treasury Group.86 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingSidewood Estate Sittella Swan Valley Whitebox Jeff Hugo McLaren Vale The Blok EstateAdelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH Fenech Signature Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Shiraz2010 HHH1/2 Floral bouquet with Yarra Valley Shiraz Lovely colour, good 2009 HHHMeaty bouquet with a bit nice peppery edge and 2010 HHH depth of pretty floral Soft, easy and nicelyof cranberry. Generous, lightweight palate that has This wine is a pleasant fruit and some classy ageing wine with meaty“gluggable” palate good flavour length. $21 complex compote of oak. Offering very good characters and freshnessshowing simple, savoury Hugo McLaren Vale fruit and florals with a drinking now. $21.50 on the palate. $24fruit flavours. $22 Shiraz 2010 HHH big peppery lift. $24.95 Two Rivers Reserve Willunga 10090 Mile Very oaky but has the fruit Hunter Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale ShirazCurrency Creek to go with it. Good fruit lift SHIRAZ/SYRAH 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHHShiraz 2010 HHH on the nose and has an 2009 Lovely complex varietal Lovely bramble aromasGood depth of colour, elegant finish. $21.50 $20 - $25 with a big, oaky nose. and fresh, vibrant palatenice ripe fruit aromas Vinrock Good oak/fruit palate with with drying tannins.and big, full-bodied McLaren Vale Shiraz 24 TASTED a level of acid. “Sits well Good wine. $24palate with savoury 2010 HHH 11 AWARDED in this price range.” $24tannins. $20 Lifted boot polish-like Blue Pyrenees Peter Lehmann HillBird In Hand aromas with a chocolaty The judges were very Shiraz 2009 HHH & Valley Eden ValleyTwo in the Bush palate showing good oak disappointed with this Subtle but complex Shiraz 2009 HHHMt Lofty Ranges treatment. $22 group. “Some poor bouquet and good Simple fruit aromas withShiraz 2010 HHH Grant Burge barrel management concentration of vibrant, a meaty lift and lovelyComplex aromas with Miamba Barossa obvious in some of berry fruit flavours. $20 sweetness on the palate.spearmint highlights. Shiraz 2010 HHH these wines, resulting K1 by Geoff Hardy “Good stuff!” $22Fairly oaky palate Some herbal characters in volatile overtones,” Silver Label Shirazbut with good fruit to the nose and a high said one judge. You will 2009 HHHunderneath. $20 acid, fruit-driven need to pick and choose A young, peppery, cool-Blesing’s Garden palate with warming a bit more with these climate style. ExcellentSouthern Flinders alcohol. $23.95 CD wines that carry a few spicy lift and long,Range Shiraz Koonara years of age. weighty, well-textured2010 HHH The Seductress palate. $20A big, sweet, oaky Coonawarra Shiraz Pertaringa Leasingham Bin 61nose and a weighty oak 2010 HHH Undercover Clare Valley Shirazpalate that has lovely Simple vanilla lift to the McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHmouthfeel. $20 nose and a “fat and 2009 HHHHH Red fruit nose that’s aGeoff Hardy cuddly” palate with A lovely, old-school style touch weedy. VibrantWines GMH opulent, sweet fruit of shiraz that smells of palate with good varietalLimestone Coast characters. $24 cherries and licorice with fruit presence. $22.99Shiraz 2010 HHH Willoughby Park some dusty oak. Good Tahbilk NagambieEarthy, meaty nose with Denmark Shiraz richness on the palate Lakes Centrala sweet fruit lift and 2010 HHH with earthy, spicy fruit Victoria Shirazflavoursome, high acid, Simple vanillin nose with and some subtle but 2009 HHHjuicy, fruit palate. $20 good fruit weight on the well-handled oak. $22 Subtle aromas andPepperwood Estate grippy, tannic palate. pleasant palate withPremium Capel Very good value. $24 Bidgeebong Wines integrated tannins.Western Australia Leconfield Regional Selection “Would like to see inShiraz 2010 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Tumbarumba Shiraz five years,” said oneA fresh, lively varietal 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH judge. $23with nice minty lift to Lovely colour, subtle Meaty, gamey aromasthe nose and good fresh fruit nose and with hints of chocolatefollow through on to the simple, subdued and and licorice. Very nicepalate. $20 savoury palate. $24.95 savoury palate that has excellent balance and good tannin structure. $22 DAY 5 - JUDGES - TROPHY DAYLouisa Rose Geoff Cowey Wolf Blass AM, BVKChief winemaker for Senior oenologist with Legendary FounderYalumba Wines with AWRI. He has wide of Wolf Blass Wines.seventeen vintages vintage experience Wolf has a winemakingcompleted. Regular senior including Barossa, legacy spanning overjudge on the capital Sunraysia, Great Western, 40 years, and a historycity wine show circuit, Coonawarra, Tasmania, of Industry Leadership!including chair of the Royal including Burgundy,Perth Wine Show in 2009. Priorat, Penedes, Martinborough. Judge at New England Wine Show. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 87

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIISHIRAZ/SYRAH SHIRAZ Wolf Blass Gold Heritage Estate Bowen Estate2008 & OLDER BLENDS Label Adelaide Hills Shiraz Mourvedre Coonawarra Shiraz$20 - $25 $25 - $30 Shiraz Viognier Grenache 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 “A great wine - a real13 TASTED 6 TASTED A mix of berries and A chocolaty, caramelly tribute to the vigneron,”6 AWARDED 5 AWARDED spices on the nose. style with some sweet, said one judge. Peppery, Palate has great structure mulberry-like characters spicy bouquet and aEven at this price point the An excellent, small and and length, with savoury- and hints of spice with beautifully seamless andjudges found there were distinctive group of tightly like flavours and hints of earthy elements. $28.50 flavoursome palate withtoo many faults evident. focused, fully ripe wines berries and cloves. $28 chalky tannins. $29.60“Ripe is OK but flat is with nice oak balance. SHIRAZ/SYRAHnot!” said one judge. 2010 Sandhurst Ridge $25 - $30Reschke Bull Trader Fringe Bendigo ShirazCoonawarra Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 50 TASTED2008 HHHH 2009 HHHH1/2 33 AWARDEDConfectionery nose that A fresh and livelysmells of strawberries wine that has great “Generally a strong,and marzipan. Nice varietal fruit expression consistent class withfleshy-fruit palate of blackcurrant and lots of clean winesbalanced by spicy oak licorice, with lots of showing purity of fruit,”and fine tannins. $23 spicy characters. Hint commented the judges. of menthol on the nose In the past this middleFarmer’s Leap and long, lingering, bracket of wines used toPadthaway Shiraz flavoursome palate. $28 be $20 more. This group2008 HHH1/2 shows just how good aA well-made wine with vintage 2010 was.tarry, fruit nose and aplumy, prune palate withrefreshing acidity anddrying tannins. $20McLaren Ridge Annie’s Lane Cradle of Hills Wolf Blass Gold Chateau TanundaMcLaren Vale Shiraz Quelltaler Watervale McLaren Vale Label Barossa Shiraz The Chateau2008 HHH1/2 Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz Mourvedre 2010 HHHHH Maria Street ShirazDeveloped jammy style Cabernet 2010 HHHH 2009 HHHH Amazing purple colour 2010 HHHH1/2with good meaty notes. A lovely style - smells that’s bordering on black. Gorgeous nose - allSome cedary notes and of blackberry tart with a Nose is dark and brooding chocolaty and Christmasfirm tannins on the long, dash of spice. Very good with a lift of spice. cake-like, with a verywell-balanced palate. $20 up-front, spicy, dark fruit Creamy in the mouth good chocolaty, raspberryGriffin Adelaide Hills flavours at the savoury with excellent flavour palate with lovely softShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 end of the spectrum. $25 density and tasting of tannin structure and someA lovely rich and jammy stewed plums. $28 subtle, toasty oak. $28nose leading to a high Lovely licorice Baileys ofacid palate loaded with characters here. A touch Glenrowan Shirazripe fruit, vanillin oak and tarry and leathery on 2010 HHHHgrippy tannins. $21 Bright blackberryParacombe and black olive-likeAdelaide Hills aromas with a fantasticShiraz 2008 HHH chocolaty/mocha liftPorty, licorice bouquet to the seamlesslyand similar characters on balanced palate. $25a flavoursome, medium- Grampians Estatebodied palate. $21 Mafeking ShirazReillys Clare Valley 2010 HHHHShiraz 2007 HHH Fresh, ripe and complexSpices and fruit jubes on the nose. Great flavouron the nose, and earthy, depth and persistenceplum palate with nice with lovely briary/mochaacid backbone. $21 elements. Needs airing before drinking. $25 the nose, and quite spicy and fruity on the palate with fine tannin structure. 3-5 $2588 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

WINE OFTHE YEARExclusive Subscriber Tastingof the 60 best wines ofAustralia and NZ of 2012National Wine Centre, AdelaideThursday 13 September 6pm - 8.30pm$75per ticketSubscribers and Sponsorsentry is freeTicket bookings 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] limited number of tickets available

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIHaselgrove Taylors Jaraman Paringa Estate J&J Vineyards Anvers McLaren ValeBella Vigna Clare Valley Peninsula Rivers Lane Shiraz 2010 HHHPremium Selection McLaren Vale Shiraz Mornington McLaren Vale Smells of blackberriesMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH Peninsula Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH with lovely spicy2010 HHHH An oak-driven nose 2010 HHH1/2 Nose of mocha and intensity on the palateLovely perfumed but there’s plenty of Very Rhone-like style black fruits, with simple and a soft rich tanninaromatics with just a blueberry fruit to match. of shiraz with loads of varietal flavours on a profile. $28hint of raspberries. Fine Long, mouthfilling pepper on the nose and lightweight palate. $25mouthfilling tannic palate palate loaded with fruit, lovely savoury characters Main & Cherry Aramis Vineyardsthat has a sensational and with a good tannic to the palate. $25 CD First Picking Single Vineyardspicy lift! $25 finish. $29.50 Stone Bridge Wines Adelaide Hills Shiraz McLaren Vale ShirazMain & Cherry Chateau Tanunda Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH 2010 HHHSecond Picking The Chateau Single 2010 HHH1/2 A warm, rich, black Old school style withAdelaide Hills Shiraz Vineyard Shiraz Confectionery sweet cherry bouquet and a savoury aromas and nice2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 aromas and lovely solid, slightly sweet, spicy sweet fruits on theA great wine with loads Lovely aromas of varietal fruit on the rich licorice-like palate. $25 warming palate. $28of spicy varietal fruit. strawberries, pepper, palate. “Not in your face Mr RiggsAttractive floral/citrus lift spice and wild ferment but complete,” said one Piebald Adelaide SHIRAZ/SYRAHto the nose and a syrupy, notes. Excellent judge. $25 Syrah 2010 HHH 2009rich palate with some chocolaty palate. Good Kalleske Moppa Pungent leesy $25 - $30well-handled oak. $25 tannin profile. $25 Barossa Shiraz characters with meatySt Hallett Garden CJ Pask Gimblett 2010 HHH1/2 overtones. “There’s a 25 TASTEDof Eden Barossa Road Hawkes Bay A lovely wine with very lovely liveliness about 16 AWARDEDShiraz 2010 HHHH Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 perfumed, stonefruit this wine.” $25A great wine - A very nice style of shiraz nose and fantastically Seppelt Chalambar A solid class with theabsolutely seamless with mega peppery, balanced palate with Bendigo & judges noting that therewith a lovely colour, spicy aromas, and a bright, fresh, fruit Grampians Shiraz appeared to be a highergreat fruit freshness, medium weight and very flavours. $28 2010 HHH level of toast in the oaklong lingering palate and peppery palate. $25 CD Saltram of Barossa Very ripe style with a barrels compared withwarming alcohol. $25 Montara Grampians Pepperjack Shiraz pretty bouquet and a the 2010 wines, querying Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 pleasantly soft cherry if this was an emergingMollydooker Confectionery-like cherry Attractive, medium- and plum palate. $25 trend. In general theseThe Boxer Shiraz fruit with some very balanced wine that St Hallett Single wines are moving from2010 HHHH classy oak to balance, smells of cherry Vineyard Release freshness to secondaryLovely lifted dark and layered with spicy, blossom and lavender, Dawkins Eden Valley aged characters.chocolaty aromas and a tarry complexity. $25 with flavours like Shiraz 2010 HHHsuper savoury palate that Claymore Wines boysenberries. $29 A leaner style with Tapestry MVhas excellent weight and Dark Side of the Vidal Reserve Series a great combination McLaren Vale Shirazlength. Offers very good Moon Clare Valley Gimblett Gravels of meaty, floral and 2009 HHHH1/2drinking. $25 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 peppery elements. $25 Dense, cedary nose Bright, lifted, purple Good savoury style with a Tenafeate Creek with hints of cocoa and fruit fragrances with a meaty, peppery bouquet. Basket Press One spice. Oak-driven palate nice spicy edge. Lots of Great palate - fresh and Tree Hill Shiraz has excellent weight interest on the dense, vibrant but finishes a tad 2010 HHH and extraction, with rich and flavoursome short. $29 NZ A quality wine with persistent plum flavours palate. $25 Brick Kiln lovely aromas and under the oak. $28 Gumpara Wines McLaren Vale beautifully-structured, Victor’s Old Vine Shiraz 2010 HHH flavoursome palate. $25 BlackJack Major’s Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 A big, rich shiraz that’s Serafino Line Bendigo Shiraz A dense and very slightly sweet and has McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH complex wine with great length of dense, 2010 HHH Lots of spicy oak fantastic flavour length red fruit flavours. $25 Herbal aromas and nice sitting on top of dense, and lots of mocha oak Brown Brothers spicy lift to the palate. plum-fruit characters on both the nose and Limited Release Good balance between and attractive, meaty, palate. $25 Heathcote Shiraz the fruit and the oak. $26 earthy elements adding Matua Valley 2010 HHH West Cape Howe complexity. $25 Reserve Release A very pretty wine with Two Steps Western Hawke’s Bay Syrah lovely floral elements Australia Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 mingling with bright, 2010 HHH A beautiful shiraz with fresh, spicy fruit. $29.90 Great colour, very excellent peppery fruit savoury aromas and and some lovely savoury lovely spicy palate. elements on the clean, A nice example of a cool fresh palate. $25 climate shiraz. $26.5090 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

ATTENTION CANBERRARIESLINGLOVERS: RINTIEERSNALTIIONNGALNominations sought for CHALLENGEWolf Blass Award 8-13 October 2012This annual award seeks Past recipients -to recognise a person or 2003 Guenter Prass AMorganisation from Australia 2004 Clare Valley Winemakers Associationor New Zealand who hasmade a major contribution Peter Lehmann AMto the development and 2005 Brian Barry OAMpromotion of Riesling. Wendy StuckeyThe winner will be 2006 Ken Helm AMinvited to attend the 2007 John Vickery OAMCanberra International 2008 Louisa RoseRiesling Challenge Awards 2009 Andrew HoodDinner on Friday I2th 2010 Jeffrey GrossetOctober, staying overnight 2011 Nick Walkerat the Hyatt HotelCanberra as guest of the David O’LearyWolf Blass Foundation. Nominations close Friday 21st September 2012 and are to be on the official nomination form available from: Canberra International Riesling Challenge PO Box 4222, Manuka ACT 2603 Tel: +61 2 6290 1505 Fax: +61 2 6290 1580 E-mail: [email protected] www.rieslingchallenge.com

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VII Barossa Muster SHIRAZ/SYRAH Shiraz 2009 HHH 2008 & OLDER Prunes and plums on $25 - $30 the nose and rich, ripe, confectionery sweet 15 TASTED fruit flavours. $25 11 AWARDED Malone Wrattonbully Shiraz 2009 HHH Amazing difference for an Overt planky oak, good extra $5, especially among density of varietal fruit the 2008 vintage. “The and soft tannins. More best wines were picked cellaring potential. $25 on flavour profile rather St Leonards Shiraz than the sweetness,” 2009 HHH said one judge. Intense fruit/oak bouquet and clean, medium-bodied palate with good tannin structure. $25 Koonara Ezra’s Gift Longview Yakka Koonara Ezra’s Gift Coonawarra Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 A clean and simple style Lovely dense varietal Loads of fragrant oak of shiraz with good fruit characters sitting on the nose with some intensity of peppery, in the black/purple minty elements obvious. spicy characters mixed spectrum with some Big hit of eucalypt on with fresh, vibrant fruit. good oak backing. $27 the palate mingling with Ready for drinking. $27 Westlake Vineyards lots of sweet forest Angas Plains PJ’s Albert’s Block fruits and has a long, Langhorne Creek Barossa Shiraz firm finish. $27 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Hardys HRB D646 A pretty wine with a A good wine with slight Shiraz 2008 HHHH peppery lift and hint of porty fruit showing dried Closed nose with viognier characters on herbal aromas and sweet, underlying roasted spice the nose. Great palate - red fruit flavours. $27.50 characters. Elegant excellent length. Good All Saints Estate palate structure with stuff! $25 Shiraz 2009 HHH dense, chewy fruit and a Corbans Cottage Barnyardy characters silky soft finish. $25.99 Block Hawke’s Bay to the nose with a Neil Hahn Syrah 2009 HHH1/2 complex, peppery, Catharina Barossa Nose is all peppery cool-climate palate with Shiraz 2006 HHHH and minty, with a rhubarb notes. $28 Cedary oak nose and a medium-bodied palate Mount Avoca chocolaty rich palate that’s that fills the mouth with Pyrenees Victoria threaded through with peppercorn and floral Shiraz 2009 HHH plum fruit flavours. Has flavours. $26 Lovely colour, subdued length and lovely softness Palmer nose and super tight, on the finish. $28.95 Margaret River high acid, palate with Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 dense and powerful Fresh, vibrant, plum-like flavours. $28 CD varietal fruit with some Patrick Estate classy oak handling Shiraz 2009 HHH obvious on both the Aromas of sour cherries, nose and palate. $28 chocolate and cherries. Ferngrove Dragon Similar characters on Frankland River the palate with its soft Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 tannins. $29 Old-fashioned style with Vidal Reserve Series lovely characters of Gimblett Gravels glace fruit, mocha and Syrah 2009 HHH chocolate. Vibrant aromas A very youthful wine and a rich palate. $29.95 - no obvious bottle age. Great aromas and lightweight, peppery palate. $29 NZ92 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tasting Karatta Reserve Robe   Shiraz 2005 HHHH Rich with developing Rich chocolaty characters Flavoursome layered with mulberry fruit and licorice. Lovely Classic Victorian oaky notes. Good length with a firm finish. $26   Jester Hill Wines Premiu Qalty Touchstone Awd Winig Wins Vintner’s Reserve Granite Belt Shiraz fo he Prenes ron, 2008 HHH1/2 Ceta Vctora, Lovely nose - smells of Atala. black wine gums with hints of soy. Similar For Domestic distribution and Export inquiries characters on the high acid palate. $28 Phone: +61 3 54 65 3320 or E-mail: [email protected] Drop Shiraz Rusty Mutt Shiraz Milhinch Wines Seize2008 HHHH 2006 HHH1/2 The Day Barossa  Unusual coal tar-like Intense plum and licorice Shiraz Cabernetaromas with some mint aromas developing nicely 2009 HHHH  and spices. Sweet, bright and with fresh, sweet Quite a savoury style  berry fruit on the mid- flavours, and very goodpalate with firm acid and oak integration. $27 starting to show somegood oak balance. $25 Feet First nice aged characters Frankland River that add rich complexity Shiraz 2008 HHH to the ripe, varietal fruit Herbaceous nose with flavours. 5+ $30 beef stock and black fruit flavours, and a long, drying finish. $29.80 Michael Unwin Wines Umbrella Man Acrobat Beaufort Shiraz 2006 HHH Forest fruit and subtle spice on the nose. Palate packed with plums. Good acid spine. $26 SHIRAZ BLENDS $30 - $40 11 TASTED 9 AWARDEDZema Estate One judge commented St John’s RoadCoonawarra Shiraz that this was: “A very Workhorse Barossa2008 HHHH good bracket with Shiraz CabernetRipe mulberry fruit nice flavour profilescharacters with a but few having shiraz-marzipan touch, some predominant overtones”.timber-like oak andplenty of acidity. Good Scarpantoni Estate 2009 HHHHpalate structure and Concentrated, broodingbalance. $25.95 Reserve Shiraz aromas of licorice, plums Cabernet 2010 HHHH A bold, seamless style and spices. All oak on the solid palate. “Not for the - very Aussie-like. Deep faint hearted,” suggested purple colour, nice oaky nose and a dark fruit one judge. 5+ $30 palate with firm, chewy tannins. 5+ $36 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 93

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIId’Arenberg SHIRAZ/SYRAH Penny’s HillThe Laughing Magpie 2011 – 2010 Skeleton KeyMcLaren Vale Shiraz $30 - $40 McLaren Vale ShirazViognier 2009 HHHH 2010 HHHH1/2A powerfully structured 66 TASTED Deep crimson winewine with complex 52 AWARDED with gamey, blackberryaromas and persistent An excellent line up of characters on the nosechocolaty/red currant well made wines from and lifted by spicy oak.flavours supported by an excellent vintage and Dense, upfront fruit on afirm, chewy tannins. well worth the price big, rich palate with fine point. Lots of lovely tannins and a soft finish. 5+ $32 bright fruit wines. J&J Vineyards 3-5 $35Dandelion Vineyards Rivers Lane PremiumLion’s Tooth of McLaren Vale Shiraz Saracen EstatesMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Margaret River ShirazRiesling 2009 HHH1/2 A big, rich shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2A consumer-friendly offering plenty of ageing Light perfumed lift tostyle with perfumed, potential. Has briary, the inky-black fruit nose.floral bouquet and spicy, forest fruit aromas Good concentration anda firm, blackcurrant with lots of funkiness balance of dark berrypalate, with nice, chewy and delicious licorice- fruit, plums and toastytannins. 5+ $30 based flavours on the oak flavours wrapped in fleshy palate. $35 grainy tannins. NeedsMatua Valley time. 3-5 $35Estate Series Craggy Range Heathcote Winery Gumpara WinesHawke’s Bay Syrah Single Vineyard Mail Coach Shiraz Reserve Shiraz Vinrock Scarce EarthViognier 2010 HHH Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 HHHHH 2010 HHHHH McLaren Vale ShirazRipe, jubey and hot 2010 HHHHH Nose exhibits a lovely Plenty of aromatic charry 2010 HHHH1/2with the oak slightly A beautiful example of a interplay of fragrant oak oak on the nose mingling Inky, crimson monster.dominating the blackberry cool-climate shiraz. The with bright ripe mulberry with red berry fruits Loads of oak but hasfruit. 5+ $30 nose is a lovely concoction fruit. A big, powerful and with loads of spicy big ripe blackberry fruit of bright sweet plum, palate but everything is oak on the very long, to carry it off. Powerful,Kalgan River Albany white pepper and spices. in balance - the fruit, the lingering palate that’s dense, brooding palateGreat Southern Long and spicy in the sweetness, the oak and layered with sweet berry with inky-fruit flavours,Shiraz Viognier mouth with excellent oak the acid. $33 fruits. 5+ $35 toasty oak and balancing2010 HHH use. $31.95 NZ Elephant Hill tannins. $35An interesting wine Hawkes Bay Syrahlayered with dark 2010 HHHHH Tim Smith Wineschocolate, black plums Delightful clove and Barossa Shirazand spices, with a little cinnamon sticks mingle 2010 HHHH1/2rhubarb. 3-5 $38 with black cherry and Another monster of a black berry aromas. wine with a fragrant,d’Arenberg Elegant palate - very spicy lift to the denseThe Wild Pixie fresh with lingering fruit nose and intense,McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit characters concentrated, jammyRoussanne 2009 HHH threaded with spice flavours matchedEarthy, licorice and lovely oak. $34 NZ with plenty of oak andbouquet and very firm, tannins. Drink now. $36grippy, tannic palatewith long, rich flavours. Scarpantoni Block 3 McLaren Vale Shiraz 1-2 $32 2010 HHHH An oak-driven style, lots ofAll Saints Estate timbery/coconutty/vanillinAlias II Shiraz characters but also hasMuscadelle oodles of fruit with hints2009 HHH of chocolate richness.Very ripe aromas - Drying finish. $30smells like a fortifiedwith slightly fruit cake- Wynns Black Label Villa Maria Cellarlike characters on the Coonawarra Shiraz Selection Gimblettpalate. $35 2010 HHHHH Gravels Syrah Smells of black cherries 2010 HHHH with nice light oak A youthful wine that treatment. Well-balanced, needs time to evolve. nicely-structured palate - Savoury on both the tasting of plums, spices nose and palate, and mulberries all nicely with a nice spiciness integrated with the and good firm tannic vanillin oak. $38 backbone. $31.99 NZ94 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

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WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIKim Crawford Small Heirloom Vineyards St Hallett Virgara Wines CrossroadsParcels Victory Eden Valley Shiraz Blackwell Barossa M. Virgara & Sons WinemakersHawke’s Bay Syrah 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH Adelaide Shiraz Collection2010 HHHH Smells of black A fragrant nose with 2010 HHH1/2 Hawkes Bay SyrahPungent, meaty bouquet cherries with an pretty oak notes. Big, Nice oak influence on 2010 HHH1/2and big savoury palate interesting perfumed inky-rich palate, well the nose, and a warm Aromatic, spicy, herbalwith underlying spicy lift and has intense, balanced with lovely oak and jammy palate that is aromas, and loads ofcharacters, wood dark, concentrated and good length of ripe a tad green around the spice and blackberriessweetness and long, fruit flavours on a light, varietal fruit. $38 edges. $30 on the palate with a nicedrying tannins. $33 NZ spicy palate. $35 Ernest Hill William Morambro Creek tannic finish. $35 NZSandalford Estate Henry Premium Padthaway Shiraz Summit ReserveReserve Margaret McLaren Vale Hunter Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2River Shiraz III Associates 2011 HHH1/2 Dark and inky on the nose Smells like the forest2010 HHHH The Descendant Perfumed, black fruit with a very long, fleshy, floor with some meatyPerfumed oak on the of Squid Ink aromas and spicy fruit sweet varietal fruit palate. elements. Ripe andnose with subtle black McLaren Vale Shiraz flavours with hints Quite advanced for its fleshy in the mouthcherry notes and good 2010 HHHH of toast and a long, age. $31.95 and has well-balancedcool-climate, varietal fruit A heavily extracted, lingering acid finish. $35 BlackJack Bendigo tannins. $35 NZflavours with hints of inky, style. Deep Eppalock Ridge Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Tobin Maxspice and herbs. $33.95 Heathcote Shiraz Loads of lovely fragrant Granite Belt ShirazBird In Hand 2010 HHH1/2 oak here and underneath 2010 HHH1/2Mt Lofty Ranges Ripe and spicy on the there is bright berry fruit Obvious cool-climateShiraz 2010 HHHH nose. Plumy in the mouth showing a herbal edge. characters with spicy,Aromas of plums and with nicely balancing oak Light bodied. $35 mulberry fruit showingmulberries layered and a somewhat acid Penfolds Bin 128 a spicy, herbal edge andwith attractive toasty finish. $30 Coonawarra Shiraz nice oak sweetness. $35oak. Pleasant chocolaty Ernest Hill 2010 HHH1/2 Blue Tonguerichness to the earthy, Shareholders Shiraz Subdued nose - hints Jonathan’slicorice, black fruit 2010 HHH1/2 of red fruits and oak. Vineyard Silver Bluepalate. $35 An easy drinking style Grippy in the mouth with McLaren ValeHeirloom Vineyards - sweet and simple good varietal flavours Shiraz 2010 HHHBarossa Shiraz with pretty floral oak and some heat on the Simple berry fruit nose2010 HHHH characters and plenty of finish. $34 with a grippy tannicMeaty/smallgood nice spicy-plum fruit. $30 Bellarmine palate loaded withcharacters on the nose Laurance of Pemberton Shiraz licorice flavours. $30with a fresh eucalypt lift. Margaret River 2010 HHH1/2 BabichPalate is a nice balance Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Gentle, berry fruit Winemaker’sof ripe, sweet and fruity Lovely soft, fleshy fruit lift aromas with a gamey Reserve Hawke’s Baycharacters. $35 to the nose, with plenty edge. Fleshy varietal Syrah 2010 HHH of tannic grip to the palate fruit dominates the Herbal aromas with a crimson colour, spicy carrying pleasant red palate and has a long, light touch of oak and perfumed bouquet varietal fruits. $30 acid finish. $35 nicely-textured, high-acid and some flesh on the palate. $30 NZ palate with rich plum flavours. 3-5 $3596 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingRidgeView Yelland & Papps BlackJack The Hay Paddock 717 ConvictsImpressions Devote Greenock Block 6 Bendigo Waiheke Island The Warden BarossaHunter Valley Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH Silk Syrah 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/22010 HHH 2010 HHH Jubey, blackberry Funky meaty characters Black cherry nose has aMasses of toasty oak on Loads of sweet oak bouquet and simple on the nose and lean herbal/black olive edgethe nose, and simple berry with coconut-like licorice palate with high acid briary fruit to it and some well-and plum fruit palate with characters matched by loads of oak and acid to palate with dominating handled, toasty oak. Big,a hint of oak. $30 the black fruits. $32 balance. $35 oak. $37 NZ ripe and fleshy in the mouth with long, spicy,Sedona Estate Bettenay’s The Colonial Estate Mission Estate jammy flavours balancedAuslese Yea Valley Margaret River Explorateur Barossa Winery Jewelstone by the oak. $35Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH Old Vine Shiraz Hawke’s Bay Syrah Sanguine EstateLoads of toasty oak Rich and slightly earthy 2010 HHH 2010 HHH Heathcote Shirazsitting on top of the fruit on the nose with sweet, Dense, inky aromas and Slightly jammy plum fruit 2009 HHHH1/2with grainy tannins in rhubarb flavours wrapped simple, soft fruit palate. with toasty vanillin oak, A balance of oak andsupport. $30 in firm tannins. $35 Good flavour length and big tannins and alcohol fruit aromas with someSeville Estate Hungerford Hill great tannins. $35 heat. $38 NZ cola characters. FruitYarra Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz Avon Brae New cake-like richness on the2010 HHH 2010 HHH Eden Vineyards Sanguine Estate long and lingering palateClosed nose - some mint Funky nose with a Eden Valley Shiraz Heathcote Shiraz with some nice hints ofand dark fruits. Simple herbal edge, and a 2010 HHH 2010 HHH tar-like notes. $39.95minty palate. Needs time simple palate that has Concentrated jammy Rich, lush and lovely Taltarni Heathcoteto open up. $30 some richness. $35 prune characters on the with a merger of lightly Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2Sutherland Estate Inkwell McLaren Vale nose and palate. Good perfumed oak and sweet A big, powerful classicDaniel’s Hill Shiraz 2010 HHH oak handling. $39.99 mulberry fruit. $39.95 Aussie style brimmingVineyards Black cherry aromas Dolan Family over with dark, earthy,Yarra Valley with a cola-like character. Wines Barossa SHIRAZ/SYRAH blackberry fruit, loads ofShiraz 2010 HHH Dense, inky palate with Shiraz 2010 HHH 2009 coconut-like oak and aSimple, fleshy, mid- huge tannins. $35 Inky colour, sweet $30 - $40 minty, eucalypt lift withweight wine with Nepenthe Pinnacle perfumed fruit bouquet anise notes and dryinglots of strawberry-like Gate Block Barossa and upfront dark fruit 31 TASTED finish. $39.99varietal fruit and loads of Shiraz 2010 HHH flavours with alcohol 22 AWARDEDtannins. $30 Subtle black cherry and heat. $39.99Killerby red currant bouquet, Grant Burge Filsell Solid class with quite Scarpantoni Block 3Margaret River and a long, grippy palate Barossa Old Vine a few having green McLaren Vale ShirazShiraz 2010 HHH with fleshy fruit. $35 Shiraz 2010 HHH tannins. These are best 2009 HHHHA simple, lighter style Whistler Barossa A big tannic style with to drink now rather than Fragrant oak aromas andshiraz with aromas Shiraz 2010 HHH masses of oak and rich, improving with age. medium-weight palateand flavours of plums, Big wine with a gamey, slightly jammy, fruit. with light fruit flavoursprunes and a hint of slightly porty nose. Sweet/ Drying finish. $36.95 CD balanced by earthy, oakylicorice. $32 sour fruit palate and hints characters on a slightly of chocolate. $36 hot palate. $30 Cellars September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 97

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIVerdun Park Albert Trentham Heathcote Avon Brae New 1847 Wines Pappy’sArthur Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009 HHH Eden Vineyards Paddock ShirazShiraz 2009 HHHH Aromatic, jammy, Eden Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHHA solid wine with good mulberry fruit elements 2009 HHH Nice oaky bouquet withtannin structure, attractive with some nice Rich, round and fleshy some subtle, spicy blackgamey/licorice fruit and savouriness and warm style with some aged fruit. Warm and earthyperfectly balanced oak. finish. $30 characters adding in the mouth with aQuite drying with plenty Upper Reach complexity to the pleasant lift of sweetof length. $37 Reserve Swan Valley wine. $39.99 plum characters. $35 Shiraz 2009 HHH K1 by Geoff HardyPertaringa Over the Aromas of plums and Taltarni Pyrenees Adelaide Hills ShirazTop McLaren Vale licorice - almost buttery Victoria Shiraz 2008 HHHHShiraz 2009 HHHH with similar characters 2009 HHH Ripe, sweet and spicyBig and chewy but needs echoed on the palate. $32 Very good oak handling fruit nose with a pleasantcellaring time. Dense Henschke Henry’s here with pretty black eucalypt lift, and nicenose of black fruit and Seven Barossa fruit and tight drying minty length to the rich,pencil-shaving oak. Some Shiraz 2009 HHH tannins. $39.99 sweet palate. Goodfinesse and balance to Perfumed lift to the length of tannins. $35the palate. aromatic, red currant SHIRAZ/SYRAH Dorrien Estate Bin 5+ $39 nose. Fleshy in the 2008 & OLDER 1A Bendigo Shiraz mouth. Good weight and $30 - $40 2008 HHHHMaygars Hill Reserve length. $32.99 Fruit a tad baked in Barley StacksShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Griffin Reserve 30 TASTED character, well-matched The PeninsulasLoads of wood creating Adelaide Hills Shiraz 19 AWARDED by some lovely fragrant Shiraz 2008 HHHbig, toasty aromas and 2009 HHH oak, warming alcohol Loads of rich, jammy,a long, smoky palate A simple lightweight A mixed bag with the and quite a high level of plum fruit with oakwith some soy-like with overt nutty/coconut better wines nicely acidity. $35.99 dominating andcharacters. $36 oak and spicy, sweet balanced and showing Grant Burge developing nice secondary plum fruit. $35 strong flavours, but Balthasar Eden Valley complexity. $35Deep Woods Tinpot Hut Hawkes ready to be drunk now or Shiraz 2008 HHHH Neil HahnEstate Block 7 Bay Syrah 2009 HHH maybe yesterday! Some Rich and brooding - Catharina BarossaMargaret River Lovely pepper and spice pretenders in this group. still youthful with a Shiraz 2008 HHHShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 bouquet with pretty violet complexity of baked Quite ripe and porty, butSmells like soy sauce lift and a fresh, Rhone-like Angas Plains black fruits, attractive oak with plenty of acidityand mushrooms. Ripe, palate. $35 NZ Emily Cross length, drying tannins and nice oak to balancefleshy flavours supported Tolley Elite Langhorne Creek and a hint of soft olives it all. $28.95by the toasty oak and Bendigo Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 and herbs. $36.95 CD Henry’s Drivehas a drying finish. $32 Shiraz 2009 HHH Deep crimson red with 3 Rings Barossa Vignerons Raisined characters lovely dusty, smoky oak Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Padthaway Shiraz3 Oceans Wine on the nose; meaty seamlessly blended Good intensity and 2008 HHHCo Vita Novus layers. Complex palate with attractive, sweet length of jammy, Leathery, barnyard-likeFrankland River - more raisined fruit blackberry and spicy chocolaty, varietal bouquet with hints ofShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 obvious. $37.99 plum fruit. Good tannin characters, some smoky rhubarb. Simple, drying,Pretty coconut-like oak Squawking Magpie structure that’s long, meaty nuances and savoury fruit palate. $30bouquet and firm, fine Stoned Crow fine and drying. $39.95 drying tannins. $35 Taltarni Pyreneestannic palate with good Gimblett Gravels Oxenberry The Star Victoria Shirazlength of varietal fruit Hawkes Bay Syrah Rockbare Barossa Of Greece Shiraz 2008 HHHand sweet oak. $35 2009 HHH Babe Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 A complexity of sweet Tight, nicely focused 2008 HHHH1/2 A firm, grippy, tannic forest fruits, smokyDorrien Estate Bin varietal with plenty of Loads of meaty, licorice style with lovely ripe oak and firm, grippy1A Bendigo Shiraz classy oak and lovely and prune-like aromas fruit-cake characters, tannins. $39.992009 HHH1/2 blackberry flavours. with a smoky thread. high acid and a long, Blue PyreneesDeep crimson wine with $39.95 NZ Lusciously rich palate, firm finish. $35 Reserve Shirazpretty prune bouquet Penfolds Kalimna long and flavoursome, Rosenvale Vineyards 2008 HHHand mouth-puckering, South Australia with masses of varietal Old Vines Reserve A firm, tannic style withtannic palate with nice Shiraz 2009 HHH fruit, nice oak and drying Barossa Shiraz the fruit more in theblack fruit and balancing A lean, simple, tannic finish. $39.95 2008 HHH1/2 savoury spectrum, withoak. $36.99 lightweight style. Very Spicy nose with herbal drying tannins. $32 tannic with some dense Hartz Barn Wines overtones and a big,Elderton Barossa fruit. Needs time. $38 Reserve General warming palate ripeShiraz 2009 HHH Store Barossa Shiraz with varietal fruit. HasPlenty of oak but also 2008 HHHH nice wood and dryinghas sweet mulberry fruit A big hit of ripe, dark tannins. $39with attractive floral/ fruit aromas and long,violet lift. $30 lingering flavours. Medium-bodied palate,Hahndorf Hill Winery loads of blackberries,Adelaide Hills Shiraz prunes and anise. $302009 HHHDense, meaty stylewith plenty of fruit, nicetoasty oak and dryingtannins. $3098 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

varietal tastingLambert EstateAugust BarossaShiraz 2008 HHH“One for the oaklovers,” suggested onejudge. Smoky aromas.Warm and spicy in themouth. $30RojomamaRed Art SingleVineyard BarossaShiraz 2008 HHHDark, chocolaty winewith subdued nose andsweet, spicy, licoricepalate. Drying finish. $30Schild Estate Saltram MamreBen Schild Brook BarossaReserve Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHHHHShiraz 2008 HHH Dense, intense andA lovely combination of complex licorice andtoasty oak, floral fruit blackcurrant aromasand vanillin complexity. with big dash of whitePalate has weight and pepper. Flavoursomelength. $30 mulberry andChain of Ponds blackcurrant palate, goodThe Ledge use of oak and mouth-Adelaide Hills puckering tannins. $40Shiraz 2008 HHHSweet, fragrant oakmingles with earthy,prune fruit andsupported by “gracious”tannins. $33Ernest HillShareholdersShiraz 2007 HHHJammy nose withdried herbal notes andsweet fruit flavours withleathery complexity. $35SHIRAZ/SYRAH2011 – 2010$40 - $5029 TASTED20 AWARDED“The good were very Wolf Blass Greygood showing excellent Label McLaren Valetexture, elegance and Shiraz 2010 HHHHHpoise,” said one judge. Excellent deep purple“But there were also a wine with powerfulfew ‘naked emperors’.’’ varietal definition.Noticeable difference Aromas of ripe plums,here between spicy, dark chocolate andcool-climate styles and liqueur cherries leap outthe powerful, warm- the glass. The palate hasclimate ones. structure, elegance and flavour intensity. $45 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 99

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VII Hong Kong’s Leading Mills Reef Elspeth Mollydooker Blue St Hallett Single Boutique Wine & Yachting Gimblett Gravels Eyed Boy Shiraz Vineyard Release Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 HHHH Scholz Estate Events Company 2010 HHHH1/2 “A lot of wine,” said one Barossa Shiraz A solid, friendly and judge. Some lovely aged, 2010 HHH1/2 Wine Tastings | Sailing Charters very accessible wine. leathery/earthiness to the Big, ripe and chocolaty Wine Cruises | Winemaker Talks Chocolaty/mulberry nose. Dark and brooding with lifted floral fruit, bouquet and unusual palate with intriguing some supple chewy Team Building | Sail Training complex flavour profile varietal flavours. $49 tannins and medicinal Island Hopping Trips | Fine Wines with cool-climate Cable Bay Vineyards hints. Good weight and characters, great Waiheke Island texture. $40 Contact us for some great sailing texture, plenty of length Syrah 2010 HHHH Ti Point Matriarch and fellowship in Hong Kong and firm tannins. $45 NZ A big wine with Matakana Coast Krondorf a huge concentration of New Zealand Syrah (topped off with some great wine). Symmetry Barossa flavour. Dense chocolaty/ 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 red fruit aromas and A tad medicinal on the www.adelaidecellardoor.com.hk Smells of licorice and nicely-balanced, nose with excellent [email protected] dark plums, with a nice warming, vibrant, fruit peppery lift and savoury edge. Palate palate. $45 NZ powerful floral/Turkish www.hongkongyachting.com is a perfect symmetry Coopers Creek Delight flavours. Great [email protected] between black fruits, Reserve Hawke’s Bay tannins. $44.99 NZ chocolaty oak and firm Syrah 2010 HHHH Gartelmann Diedrich +852 2526 0151 tannins, with a good A beautifully-balanced, Hunter Valley Shiraz level of spice. $48.99 very drinkable shiraz. 2010 HHH1/2 801, Tai Yau Building, 181 Johnston Road, Mum’s Block Barossa Rich, lifted fruit nose Nose still a bit closed and Wanchai, Hong Kong Shiraz 2010 HHHH and elegant, silky brooding, but soft palate is Intense, lifted, dark fruit smooth palate with rich and very flavoursome100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012 bouquet and seamlessly good line of chocolaty with loads of spicy fruit. balanced, brooding flavours. $45 NZ Has some power. $45 fruit palate with supple Shottesbrooke Greg Norman Wine tannins, and a long and Eliza Reserve Estates Reserve Robe vibrant finish. $42.99 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Nose is perfumed and Fox Gordon Hannah’s Inviting and friendly wine lolly-like, while palate Swing Barossa with intense, chocolaty, offers a wide spectrum Shiraz 2010 HHHH plum aromas and long, of dark fruit flavours Chocolaty aromas with a balanced and typical cool- with supple, chewy smoky character and an climate palate that’s all tannins. $45 elegant palate of liqueur spices and plums. $45 Chateau Tanunda cherries, dark plums and Heathcote Estate Terroirs of the chocolate, with soft, Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Barossa Lyndoch refined tannins. $44.95 Ripe, brooding style with Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 an excellent solid varietal “Very Barossa,” thought fruit core. Plenty of one judge. Lifted licorice acidity, restrained oak and and dark chocolaty drying tannic finish. $40 aromas and long, tannic, fruit cake palate. $48 Foxey’s Hangout Mornington Peninsula Shiraz 2011 HHH A well-balanced, medium-bodied shiraz with vibrant blackcurrant fruit and lots of pepper and spice. $45 CD Gibson Reserve Shiraz 2010 HHH A popular, sweet fruit style with chocolaty/ porty elements, spicy notes and warming alcohol. $44