Winestate Magazine September October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g SEMILLON & Fermoy Estate Sandalford Margaret Barton Jones BLENDS Margaret River River Range Classic The Brilliant Cut dry White Margaret Semillon Sauvignon Geographe Semillon $20 TO $25 Blanc 2014 HHHH River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Nose more in the spicy/ Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH 14 TASTED savoury spectrum. 2014 HHH Lifted estery oak 12 AWARDED Palate is bright and Lean, vibrant, acid-driven bouquet and refined juicy and refreshing and style with a nice line of mouthwatering zesty tasting of lychees with citrus peel character. acid palate. $24 A consistent class of citrus touches. $22 $20 more intense wines SEMILLON & than the previous flight Clovely Estate drakesbrook Wines exhibiting a touch more Left Field South Wild Bird Peel BLENDS Burnett Semillon Semillon 2014 HHH fruit weight at the top 2013 HHHH Savoury oaky/fumé $25 TO $30 end. Zesty lime-driven style style with toasty 16 TASTED - very varietal; some creamy aromas and a 11 AWARDED savoury characters on soft juicy and balanced the nose and pleasant palate. $21.99 toastiness to the More variation here lingering palate. drakesbrook Wines with the good, the bad 3-5 $20 Wild Bird Peel and the ugly on display. Semillon 2013 HHH Clovely Estate Citrus based aromas Some excellent aged James Estate Left Field South and bright lively acid- wines but there were Reserve Hunter Burnett Semillon driven palate with also some showing Valley Semillon 2010 HHHH more of the citrus fruit. 2013 HHHHH Lovely fumé style with 3-5 $21.99 sulphide issues and “Very, very semillon,” toffee and stonefruit some that were just said one judge. Lovely notes on the nose and James Estate plain flabby. lifted tropical fruit lots of fresh citrus and Reserve Fumé fragrances and bright tropical flavours laced Hunter Valley umamu Estate juicy sweet lemon with zesty acidity. $20 Semillon Sauvignon Margaret River curd flavours on the Blanc 2013 HHH Semillon Sauvignon creamy textured palate Murray Street Citrus, caramel and Blanc 2005 HHHHH underscored with lively Vineyards White honeysuckle on the nose This wine is developing acidity. 3-5 $27 Label Barossa Valley which is echoed on the nicely and showing flinty Semillon 2015 HHH slatey acid palate. $23 notes on the peachy Fermoy Estate Musky and floral bouquet with a lovely Margaret River bouquet and fresh lively Barton Jones The soft fruity palate that Semillon Bunnamagoo Estate tropical palate with a Box Seat Geographe has a combo of orange 2014 HHHH Mudgee Semillon high level of acidity. Semillon 2013 HHH rind and buttered toast A lovely complexity of 2012 HHHH1/2 $20 A distinct toast and flavours. 5+ $25 oak and fruit with zesty Subtle stonefruit lemon curd style. Quite lemon lift to the nose. fragrances laced with Whistler Wines a volatile nose with a Lots of stonefruit and oak and showing a Audrey May Barossa balanced palate. $24 citrus on the long and perfumed lift. The zingy Semillon Sauvignon well-structured palate. acidity carries the bright Blanc 2015 HHH 5+ $25 herbal fruit along the Lots of citrus peel entire length of the characters on the palate. 5+ $21.95 nose. Sweet citrus fruit palate with balancing acidity. $20 judges Randall Cummins John Gledhill Randell Taylor Winemaker, Rosemount Fifth generation grape Manager of the Estate. He completed grower. Formerly Trace Laboratory vintages at Rouge Homme Rosemount, McLaren at the Australian in Coonawarra and Penfolds Vale winemaker for Wine Research in the Barossa Valley, before 4 years. Previously Institute (AWRI). moving to Rosemount Estate winemaker at Has completed the in the Hunter Valley. He Hickinbotham Wines AWRI Advanced also completed a vintage in Clarendon and five Assessment course at the Mondavi winery in years with Michelton and is a long standing California in partnership with Wines (Nagambie). member of the Rosemount. Quality Tasting Panel. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 101

S E M I L L O N & B L E N D S Palmer Margaret Bilgavia Estate Gartelmann Saddler’s Creek River Semillon Hunter Valley Benjamin Hunter Reserve Hunter 2014 HHHH Semillon 2014 HHH Valley Semillon Valley Semillon Aromatic green pea/ Subtle lime juice 2011 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHHH tropical bouquet almost bouquet and fresh citrus Toasty savoury aromas Flinty lime cordial sauvignon blanc-like. flavours with tight acid showing nice secondary bouquet with hints of Fresh in the mouth with and some tannins. characters developing. spice and showing a generous persistence 3-5 $26 Soft generous palate typical European-like of grassy/citrus structure brimming over Hessian character. flavours. $25 Saddler’s Creek with buttered toast and Delicious, generous Classic Hunter lemon curd flavours. and rich but gentle and McGuigan Valley Semillon 3-5 $30 elegant lemon curd-like Shortlist Hunter 2014 HHH flavours. 5+ $40 Valley Semillon Subtle toasty citrus Tempus Two 2014 HHHH aromas. Good zingy Pewter Hunter Saddler’s Creek Bright, lively style length to the palate. Valley Semillon Reserve Hunter smelling of passionfruit Toasty lemon curd 2014 HHHH Valley Semillon and lemon peel. The flavours. 3-5 $26 Nice lift of tropical 2006 HHHHH palate is balanced and fruits on the nose with Lime cordial nose crisp with plenty of citrus SEMILLON & a bright, vibrant and showing kero-like aged and tropical flavours. somewhat linear style of characters. Masses of 5+ $28.99 BLENDS palate with grassy citrus rich lime flavours sitting the acid still adding Gartelmann $30 TO $40 flavours. 3-5 $30 well on the palate with Benjamin Hunter 7 TASTED RidgeView length. Plenty more Valley Semillon 6 AWARDED Generations years left in it yet. 2014 HHH1/2 Reserve Hunter 5+ $45 Fresh citrus peel Valley Semillon aromas; grassy herbal Excellent consistent 2013 HHHH Saddler’s Creek notes. Simple well- class showing intensity The lifted nose shows Classic Hunter balanced palate with and fruit structure. hints of limes and Valley Semillon generous citrus blossom florals. The palate 2009 HHHH1/2 flavours. $25 “Great presence exhibits a good balance Flinty steely pineapple/ but without being of buttery toast and citrus aromas. Palate is James Estate overpowering,” lemon curd-like flavours. rich and generous with Reserve Hunter 3-5 $30 lots of citrus and hay-like Valley Semillon concluded one judge. fruit flavours. Developing 2012 HHH1/2 RidgeView beautifully. Still more Leafy asparagus Alkoomi Wandoo Generations Reserve cellaring potential. bouquet and quite a Frankland River Hunter Valley 5+ $40 sharp steely acid palate, Semillon Semillon 2014 HHH good length of citrus 2007 HHHHH Light, lean and herbal Saddler’s Creek flavours and nice tannic Buttery toasty nose style with lemony citrus Classic Hunter grip. $27 layered with lemon curd flavours supported by Valley Semillon and coffee grind-like steely acidity. $30 2005 HHH1/2 James Estate characters. Soft, gentle A fragrant and flinty lime Reserve Hunter and viscous palate with bouquet with a lovely generous toasty lemon SEMILLON & Valley Semillon lightness of lemon curd 2011 HHH1/2 curd flavours. Some nice BLENDS and buttered toast-like A generous toasty oiliness developing. $35 flavours. $44 buttery style developing OvER $40 nicely with citrus notes Ryan’s Reserve 5 TASTED to the nose and juicy Hunter Valley 4 AWARDED sweet mid-palate. Semillon 2014 HHHH1/2 3-5 $27 STAR RATINGS HHHHH Rich vibrant style with Outstanding small class Tempus Two Copper loads of citrus characters showing the longevity Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Hunter Valley layered with lively of the variety with great excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Semillon 2015 HHH acidity and subtle nutty All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Perfumed nose - all toastiness. Palate shows acid to, as one judge professionals and are compared in peer musky and floral. good tannin structure said, “Prop up this classes by three judges. Refreshing tropical supported by a good line classic variety”. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, palate, not dense or of acid. 5+ $32 a major mail-order business. intense but nice. CD Cellar door price. 3-5 $25 CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 151-152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 102 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

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t r a v e l b r i e f s WINSOR DOBBIN YARRA vALLEY & SOUTHERN vICTORIA hotel offers free wifi, healthy menu options, local running track maps and an in-room yoga channel. room rates start from $159 per night, but specials are available. Vibe Hotel marysville, 32-42 murchison St, marysville; phone (03) 5957 7700. www. tfehotels.com/brands/vibe-hotels/vibe- hotel-marysville. FLYING SUCCESS DAViD and lyndsay Sharp, the go-ahead couple behind Geelong region wineries leura Park and Jack rabbit, have also BLEND OF OLD AND NEW BACK ON THE MAP unveiled an impressive new home for their Flying brick cider company. opened Coombe - the melba estate is one of Yarra mArYSVille in the eastern reaches of the in December last year, the Flying brick Valley’s newest and most exciting cellar Yarra Valley is back on the tourism map Cider House has its own micro cidery on door and dining developments. There are following the opening earlier this year of the site, where they craft boutique batches 3ha of english-style gardens surrounding Vibe Hotel. The new hotel boasts 101 guest only available on tap. Flying brick also the historic property and guests can enjoy rooms, including five suites, a conference produces signature original, Draught gourmet breakfasts, lunches, afternoon centre, restaurant, cafe, gymnasium, and Pear ciders, which are available teas, wedding celebrations, intimate opera outdoor pool and a spa/wellbeing centre. in stubbies and kegs. The chef at the performances and private events. The hotel’s restaurant and cafe, radius bar cidery restaurant is Dwayne bourke (ex The Coombe Farm wine brand was & Grill and radius Cafe is led by executive Sunnybrae and Pettavel) and the facility established in 2002 and the “Farm” cellar chef leigh Colville, formerly of Chateau is also an accredited visitor information door was opened in 2007, and in late 2014 Yering and The Press Club, is a local who centre. Dishes on offer include a selection a new cellar door was officially opened, has returned to his home region. The 4.5 of plates intended for sharing like salt and sitting stylishly alongside a restaurant, star-rated hotel is seen as a key player in pepper cuttlefish with smoked aoili and providore and melba gallery. A blend of re-establishing tourism into marysville, said chilli jam, pork belly with apple granola, the old and new, the new restaurant, gallery TFe Hotels Ceo rachel Argaman. “TFe has smoked eel with red white braised shallots (housing some of Dame Nellie melba’s partnered with Tourism Victoria and others and bigger dishes like slow-cooked lamb most treasured memorabilia, artwork by Sir with an aim to play a significant role in shoulder. A tasting paddle of four ciders Arthur Streeton and her personal effects) revitalising marysville after the devastating costs $12 and there is a good selection of and cellar door, provide visitors with a 2009 black Saturday bushfires,” she bellarine Peninsula wines. The Flying brick glimpse into the property once resided in said. “We hope to bring savvy travellers Cider Co, 1251–1269 bellarine Highway, by Australia’s most famous of opera talent. to marysville to experience the hotel and Wallingto; phone (03) 5250 6577. open The seasonal restaurant menu has been the beauty of the surrounding area.” A seven days with live music on Friday crafted by French-trained chef Tony milton 90-minute drive east of melbourne, the evenings. www.flyingbrickciderco.com.au. who has been behind the pans for almost 20 years. Starters include duck liver paté with merlot-poached figs and melba toast, and smoked trout with potato croquettes, while mains may include slow-cooked goat and couscous with cucumber and mint labne, or prawn, clam and mussel risotto. Coombe - the melba estate is at 675 maroondah Highway, Coldstream, Yarra Valley; phone (03) 9739 0173. www. coombeyarravalley.com.au. 104 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

t r a v e l b r i e f s ON THE FARMGATE TRAIL luxury vehicles, including truffle hunts in and venue for prestige events. each suite season and the chance to sample several features uninterrupted views of the valley THe mornington Peninsula is home to treats direct from the farm gate. See and city skyline, and comes complete with some of Australia’s best cellar doors www.maxsrestaurant.com.au/mornington- a butler and an estate mercedes m-class and eateries, including Ten minutes by peninsula-experience. for personal use. The tariff (if you need to Tractor, Willow Creek, Yabby lake, Paringa ask you probably can’t afford it) includes estate, Port Phillip estate/Kooyong and EXTENDING THE helicopter transfers from the melbourne red Hill estate. but there is more than BOUNDARIES CbD, full use of the homestead’s facilities just wine to commend a visit to a region, and access to the private 3500-bottle with spectacular scenery, surf beaches, leVANTiNe Hill in the Yarra Valley has been cellar. levantine Hill, 882-886 maroondah world-class golf courses and luxurious billed as one of the most expansive wine Highway, Coldstream; phone (03) 8602 accommodation. The new Wine Food tourism projects in Victoria in decades. if 0874. www.levantinehill.com.au. Farmgate trail (www.winefoodfarmgate. you haven’t heard of levantine Hill, which com.au) takes in superb wineries and great should be fully up and running by the time SURROUNDED BY HISTORY restaurants and cafes like Polperro, Trofeo you read this, you’ve probably been living estate and Terre at Dromana estate. it is the under a rock for the past couple of years. eiGHTeeN78 is the new restaurant at perfect introduction to the region’s many The brainchild of melbourne business the best Western Plus brooklands of gourmet attractions. There are also several couple elias and Colleen Jreissati, it is mornington. Set among 1.5ha of gardens, non-wine attractions to be discovered, an operation set up to make benchmark the 40-seat intimate dining restaurant is in including: wines. With former Yarra Yering winemaker an historic homestead built in 1878 and • bass and Flinders Distillery: Founded Paul bridgeman at the helm and a hi-tech visitors can admire carefully preserved six years ago, this tiny artisan distillery cellar door at Coldstream (celebrity chef ornate cornices, stained glass windows is tucked away behind the Darling Park Teage ezard is also on board with an on- and cast-iron Victorian filigree lace lining winery and offers tastings of small-batch site restaurant) everything about levantine the veranda. executive chef Corey Howard gins and vodkas, among a large range Hill screams quality. The Jreissatis visited has joined from the National Hotel in of spirits, all made using local products. more than 50 cellar doors in South Africa, bendigo to help create a new menu and • mock orchards: A rustic farm gate an acknowledged leader in wine tourism, wine list specialising in local produce from operation where visitors can arrive by looking at ideas for their new facility. the mornington Peninsula. everything is car, horse or bike to sample a range of ezard @ levantine Hill, from the chef who organically grown and every wine and beer biodynamic ciders and fruit juices. The created ezard and Gingerboy will feature is from the peninsula, is the restaurant’s mock family has been growing apples the best seasonal produce, using small claim. expect modern Australian cuisine since 1895. local producers. “We are extending our on a menu that features dishes like confit • Green olive: This 11ha sustainable farm culinary boundaries by creating dishes of rabbit with house-made tortellini, is the closest thing Australia has to an inspired by classic food styles of europe mushrooms, pea and sage puree finished “agriturismo” experience. Guests are and enhancing them with new flavours and in truffle oil, and a choice of five mains, offered the chance to sample and eat combinations,” the chef says. levantine Hill including lamb shoulder, baby onions, produce grown or raised on the property, takes its name from the levant, the blessed, chat potatoes, buttered peas with harissa ranging from sheep to olives. ancient biblical lands known as “the lands and red wine jus. The wine list features • mornington Peninsula brewery: This craft in the east where the sun rises” and elias names like Crittenden estate, Geppetto and brewery is hidden away in an industrial Jreissati was born in the beka’a Valley, Foxeys Hangout. eighteen78 is open daily estate but is hugely popular with locals lebanon’s prime wine growing region. for breakfast and monday to Saturday for and visitors alike, with a constantly The estate comprises two vineyards, one dinner. With 53 rooms, the hotel offers king- changing range of beers. The brewery planted in the 1990s and the other with size pillow-top beds, private courtyards, bar is known for its gourmet pizzas and family blocks created alongside a truffiere. free wifi, iPod docking stations and large features live music on Sundays. in addition to the spectacular architect- lCD televisions. eighteen78, 99 Tanti Ave, Alternatively, first-timers to the mornington designed cellar door and restaurant is mornington; phone (03) 5973 9200. Peninsula might opt for a bespoke tour the levantine Hill Homestead - the most with companies like mP experience Tours. luxurious accommodation in the region. The Above: Green olive at red Hill Farm fresh food. owner Danielle Field offers a range of Homestead is available to selected guests Opposite page. Top left: Coombe - the melba estate exterior. individually designed gourmet tours in as the Yarra Valley’s most exclusive b&b Below right: The Vibe Hotel marysville interior. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 105

87 TASTED 40 AWARDED YA R R A vA L L E Y & S O U T H E R N v I C TO R I A A nice selection of wines here from the premium regions of Payne’s Rise yarra Valley Chardonnay southern Victoria within driving distance of Melbourne. The regions 2013 HHHH produce some of Australia’s best chardonnays and in the warmer A well-made varietal with lifted stonefruit years great cabernet, and in the cooler years, pinot noir. aromas edged with meaty/cashew notes. Generous and intense varietal fruit flavours. 3-5 $20 OTHER WHITE darling Park Boat o’Craigo Trio Mornington Black Sur Healesville vARIETALS & Peninsula Pinot Gris yarra Valley BLENDS 2013 HHH1/2 Gewurztraminer Lifted tropical 2014 HHH 10 TASTED aromatics; some pear Classic Turkish Delight- 5 AWARDED nuances. Creamy like bouquet and bright viscous palate, lovely mouthfilling fruit with and soft in the mouth juicy acidity. $20 These are wines for with bright acidity. $32 drinking now. “Fresh is CHARDONNAY best and those with a 25 TASTED touch of dissolved CO2 11 AWARDED Rochford yarra performed well,” said Valley Chardonnay 2013 HHHHH one judge. “A couple of A mixed bag! The judges A complex and complete wines showed excess said the wines that were wine. Good citrus and alcohol balance for the good were very good spicy oak characters on weight of fruit involved.” - the rest just ordinary, the nose with a long luscious palate that is Foxey’s Hangout unripe or prematurely loaded with flavour and Mornington aged. “Those very good showing great texture, Peninsula Pinot Gris wines showed tight fine length and acidity. Prancing Horse 2015 HHH1/2 fruit with quality oak 5+ $34 Estate The Pony A big juicy varietal. Nice Mornington savoury touches to the balance,” added one Seville Estate Peninsula nose and long delicious judge. The Barber yarra Chardonnay pear-like flavours with Valley Chardonnay 2013 HHHH juicy crunchy acidity. $28 2014 HHHH Rich creamy style with Interesting nose; pretty Rob dolan The varietal fruit fragrances upfront aromas and flavours. Good balance Colours yarra with a hint of oak. Long and intensity of fruit Valley Sauvignon juicy palate with fruit with nice oak notes and Blanc Semillon Scotchman’s Hill flavours at the riper end good acid spine. $30 2014 HHH1/2 Bellarine Peninsula of the spectrum. Subtle but complex Sauvignon Blanc 3-5 $24 Seville Estate aromas of passionfruit, 2014 HHH Reserve yarra citrus and spices. Quite intense and nicely Seville Estate yarra Valley Chardonnay Creamy in the mouth structured style with Valley Chardonnay 2014 HHH1/2 with good acid balance. a complexity of green 2014 HHHH Classical ripe style. Bright lifted stonefruit/ 3-5 $24 fruit and residual sugar. floral fragrances with $19.99 Good citrus nose with spicy oak balance. Lean nice balance of oak tight acid palate. Intense and similar characters fruit flavours and obvious echoed on the palate. oak. $36 5+ $70 106 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e g i o n a l t a s t i n g yarra View yarra darling Park PINOT NOIR Seville Estate yarra Red Hill Estate Valley Chardonnay Robinson Vineyard Valley Pinot Noir Merricks Grove 2013 HHH1/2 Mornington 2014 & 2013 2014 HHH Mornington Soft, simple and Peninsula 18 TASTED Simple jammy fruit nose Peninsula Pinot Noir developing nicely. Smells Chardonnay 9 AWARDED with a spicy lift and 2013 HHH of ripe stonefruits and 2013 HHH pretty palate with soft Ripe fruit bouquet with spicy oak with good oak/ Oak-driven nose - smells sweet/sour flavours. spicy earthy notes. fruit flavours. $21.99 of cashews. Nice A solid group. “Many 5+ $36 Warm and creamy in intensity of varietal fruit of these wines can the mouth. Good fruit Red Hill Estate flavours sitting under be enjoyed now or Seville Hill yarra weight. $37 Merricks Grove oak. $38 Valley Pinot Noir Mornington will develop with age 2013 HHH Toolangi Estate yarra Peninsula when well cellared,” Pretty expressive Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay commented one judge. fragrances and good 2013 HHH 2012 HHH1/2 sweet fruit entry to the Spicy fruit lift to the Warm lifted spicy Foxey’s Hangout generous fruit palate. nose and long intense stonefruit aromas Kentucky Road 5+ $30 fruit-driven palate. Built with nutty secondary 777 Mornington to last! 5+ $38 characters coming Peninsula Pinot Noir through and a juicy 2014 HHHH PINOT NOIR varietal palate. $37 Ripe plumy style with nice spicy lift to the nose 2012 & OLDER and long interesting 10 TASTED palate with intense 3 AWARDED flavours, tight tannins and oak sweetness. 5+ $35 A number of wines here Seville Estate were showing early The Barber yarra development, with the Valley Pinot Noir best built for further 2014 HHHH aging. A slightly meatier style of pinot. Some beetroot oakdene Peta’s earthiness to the nose Bellarine Peninsula Prancing Horse and full-bodied palate Estate The Pony with intense fruit Pinot Noir Mornington flavours and tannins. $24 2012 HHH1/2 Peninsula Great briary/raspberry Chardonnay Foxey’s Hangout aromas followed by a 2011 HHH Mornington long textured palate Good citrussy varietal Peninsula Pinot Noir Scotchman’s Hill showing good sweet fruit profile here with good Bellarine Peninsula length. 3-5 $35 juicy acid length. Ageing 2014 HHHH Pinot Noir Simple, ripe, warm well. 5+ $30 2013 HHH Robert oatley Prancing Horse and sweet pinot style Solid earthy nose Finisterre showing a good tannic Estate Mornington ROSÉ grip. It’s well-made, well- with classic raspberry Coldstream Hills Peninsula balanced and lingers ripeness. Generous yarra Valley Pinot Chardonnay 1 TASTED long. $35 palate with savoury Noir 2012 HHH 2012 HHH1/2 0 AWARDED tannins. $31.99 Touch of earthiness to Good example of style Rob dolan White the plum nose. Lovely with meaty nutty notes Label yarra Valley firm tannic palate. to the nose. Good Pinot Noir Good fruit weight. strength of fruit on the 3-5 $36.95 palate with some very 2014 HHH A classy wine with lots juicy acidity. $55 going on. Savoury lift to the nose and spicy briary flavours. 3-5 $35 judges Judy Gifford Mark O’Callaghan Steven Paul Winemaker and General Winemaker for Oatley Manager for Manager of Darling Park Wines (Victoria). Oakdene Wines. Winery. Trained at the Former winemaker/ Completed AWRI University of Burgundy, manager for Yarra Burn and WSET Advanced France. Formerly winemaker Winery. Completed Wine Assessment at Dromana Estate along the Evans Tutorial in Certificates. Judge at with other Mornington 2007. Panel chairman Victorian wine show Peninsula wineries. of the Victorian Wine and associate at Show. Associate judge Geelong, Ballarat and at the Adelaide and Cairns. National wine shows. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 107

YA R R A VA L L E Y & S O U T H E R N V I C TO R I A CABERNET SAUvIGNON & BLENDS 5 TASTED 4 AWARDED G A N T L E Y S R E S T A U R A N T A very solid class of drinkable ripe cool climate wines. Payne’s Rise yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHH A pleasant minty and herbaceous nose with a pure ripe varietal fruit palate showing a touch of mint. A popular consumer style. $30 Prancing Horse Estate Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Bright red fruit aromas with herbal notes. Nice richness to the palate. Good tannin length. $65 OTHER RED vARIETALS 6 TASTED 2 AWARDED A mixed bag here. “Hard to generalize,” said the judges. “Nice to see leafy wines without greenness,” said one judge. Sunshine Creek Rochford yarra Cabernets yarra Valley Cabernet Valley Cabernet Franc 2014 HHH Blend 2012 HHH Attractive farmyard Spicy varietal nose and aromas. Ripe fresh red sweet fruit palate that berry palate with some has depth, length and leafy green notes. $30 balance. $45 BEST Helen & Joey VALUE Helen & Joey Estate Estate Inara BUYS Layla yarra Valley GANTLEYS RESTAURANT yarra Valley Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Queenstown, New Zealand Cabernet 2013 HHH 2013 HHH Sweet warmth of plums P: +64 3 442 8999 | F: +64 3 442 7007 on the nose with a Classic fragrant perfumed cassis nose E: [email protected] background of oak and a and a generous varietal www.gantleys.co.nz juicy savoury palate. palate. Drink now or 5+ $19 later! 5+ $29 LOWBURN FERRY WINES Central Otago, New Zealand P: +64 3 445 0846 E: [email protected] www.lowburnferry.co.nz 108 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e g i o n a l t a s t i n g Helen & Joey Estate Payne’s Rise Alena yarra Valley Redlands yarra Cabernet Sauvignon Valley Shiraz Merlot 2013 HHH 2013 HHHH Black and red berries Attractive fresh blue mingle with cedary oak fruit profile on nose on both nose and palate. and palate. Supple and Nice firm tannins. creamy in the mouth, 5+ $42 savoury tannins and lots of acid for a long life. SHIRAZ 5+ $30 10 TASTED Seville Estate 4 AWARDED yarra Valley Shiraz 2013 HHHH “Young and innocent.” Very nice cool climate Spicy cool climate shiraz wines here aromas and a grippy showing that this variety palate with attractive can do very well as a dark ripe fruit flavours and cedary oak. mid-weight style. 5+ $36 Rochford yarra Valley Syrah 2013 HHH Nice licorice characters to the nose and sweet fresh fruit flavours with oak softly evident. $30 SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED 2 TASTED 2 AWARDED A couple of delicious wines for great after dinner drinking. Foxey’s Hangout Mornington Peninsula Late oakdene Harvest Pinot Gris William Bellarine 2014 HHH Peninsula Shiraz A very pretty wine - 2013 HHHH1/2 big, bold and honeyed Dense and inky with nice touch of nose layered with tannin giving a savoury butterscotch-like oak. finish. $28 Very concentrated intense varietal palate, darling Park creamy in the mouth Robinson Vineyard with some tannic grip. Ice Viognier 5+ $35 Mornington Peninsula Viognier 2013 HHH An attractive spicy apricot-like bouquet and some powerful and delicious mouthfilling flavours. $32 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 109

t r a v e l b r i e f s WINSOR DOBBIN RIvER REGIONS - SA, vIC & NSW old heritage façade and tower are iconic mildura landmarks, and the mercure is a blend of heritage and modern style decor. The award-winning enjoyWine Cafe & Wine Tasting Centre is on-site and offers an a la carte menu and a wide selection of wines from local wineries. The mercure also boasts a solar-heated outdoor swimming pool and outdoor barbecue and entertainment area, popular in summer, while the conference facilities can accommodate gatherings of up to 120 people. The mercure mildura, 120 eighth St, mildura; phone (03) 5051 2500. www.accorhotels.com.au/accommodation/ mildura-vic/mercure-hotel-mildura. ROUGHING IT IN LUXURY TAlo retreat, at moama on the murray resort, offers guests the opportunity to sample the tranquillity of the bush while MAKING THE MOST OF A usually expect to find and Atura Albury enjoying all the creature comforts of a NEW LOOK is a real departure from any other hotel hotel suite. The six luxury, adults-only yurts offering in the region,” said Seargeant. at Talo retreat provide a very different THere is a new look and a new name at Atura Albury is the third property to what used to be known as the rydges launch under the Atura Hotels brand. it accommodation experience. inspired by Hotel in Albury. A complete revamp has was preceded by the brand’s multi-award traditional nomadic mongolian dwellings, seen the property relaunched as the Atura winning flagship property - Atura blacktown the yurts are circular rooms set on a Hotel, with a designer take on affordable - which launched in october 2013 and timber floor, with canvas walls lined with Australian wool. The interiors feature leisure accommodation. Guests are offered then Atura Dandenong which opened in timber lattice and a domed skylight so complimentary wi-fi and local phone calls, october 2014. A significant part of the guests can experience sleeping under business centres with complimentary Albury landscape since the hotel property the stars. but the yurts are far from rustic, printing, mini bars stocked with funky was first opened as a Travelodge in 1971 with private outdoor spas and their own and functional provisions and bathroom by Gough Whitlam, the refurbishment pays hammocks underneath the gum trees. amenities by leading New York skincare homage to the original building design. The each yurt is self contained with a compact provider malin + Goetz. “We’re looking hotel was officially launched in late January. kitchenette, coffee machine and barbecue forward to delivering the real point of The Atura, 648 Dean St, Albury; phone (02) facilities. They are fitted with electric difference,” says David Seargeant, group heaters and reverse-cycle airconditioning managing director of AHl. “The focus is 6021 5366, www.aturaalbury.com.au. - but there are no televisions. There are, on delivering design, personality and great LANDMARK LOCATION however, private shower/toilet facilities value, with travellers increasingly seeking set off the balcony, enhancing the bush value-driven experiences to take them THe merCure Hotel in mildura is experience. A welcome gift showcasing out of the everyday - a specialty of Atura something of a regional landmark. Formerly local produce is also provided in all yurts, Hotels.” QT Hotels and resorts designer known as the Hotel mildura, it offers 4.5 star which are positioned on the 82-ha property Nic Graham led the refurbishment program, AAA-rated accommodation and conference to provide a private getaway and also to with the traditional front desk making way facilities in the heart of town. With 68 suites allow the option to utilise resort facilities. for a modern, plywood-clad reception pod and 17 fully self-contained two- and most are within a one-minute walk of the and the public spaces which are furnished three-bedroom apartments, it caters for murray river and all are close to two resort with bespoke designer items. “There both business and leisure travellers, and pools, tennis courts, buggy, canoe and are a lot of quality touches you wouldn’t dates back to 1925. The hotel’s 80-year- bicycle hire, shop, mini golf and bar (open 110 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

t r a v e l b r i e f s seasonally). Talo retreat accommodation includes complimentary use of canoes and bikes, allowing guests to explore their surroundings. Visit www.moamaonmurray. com.au/talo-retreat. FAMILY AFFAIR nearby organic farm. o’Donnells is in Centrepoint building, ulong St, Griffith; THe ANGoVeS are among Australia’s phone (02) 6962 4666. pioneering winemaking families, with a history dating back to 1886. And while TRADITIONAL FARE Angove now has a cellar door tasting RIVER RAMBLE facility in mclaren Vale, its roots remain PerriCooTA is the smallest wine region STeFANo de Pieri is back in the kitchen in the South Australian riverland. Today and cooking traditional italian fare at Angove Family Winemakers is one of in New South Wales. it is close to the mildura’s Grand Hotel after closing Jim Australia’s largest family-owned wine and Victorian border, 800km south west of mcDougall’s restaurant in the cellar. brandy producers, and its cellar door at Sydney, and is centred on the towns of “The restaurant was a bold and exciting moama and echuca. The first vineyards venture that attempted to develop a cuisine renmark is open seven days a week. The were unsuccessfully planted in the region award-winning Angove cellar door is part of of place,” de Pieri told local media. “but in the 1860s but new vines were planted in customers were not booking in sufficient a 100-year-old winery and is on bookmark the 1990s. on the murray river, it is home numbers.” Chef Jim mcDougall, who had Ave, renmark; phone (08) 8580 3148. www. to a unique wine, known as Collexion, a previously worked under de Pieri, took angove.com.au. blend made from a contribution of shiraz over the basement restaurant and put grapes from members of the Perricoota his name on the door in April 2014, but IRISH EATS Grape Growers Association. Visitors can the experiment lasted barely 12 months taste at morrison’s riverview winery after despite mcDougall picking up the regional GriFFiTH is synonymous with italian travelling by a paddle steamer operated restaurant of the year award in The Age families and italian restaurants, but it is a by murray river Paddlesteamers from Good Food Guide 2015. “mildura needs modern Australian eatery with an irish name echuca, and then enjoy a lunch of local a destination restaurant. People have that tops the ratings charts on TripAdvisor. produce matched to Perricoota wines. always enjoyed my food in the past. i hope Family-owned o’Donnells, open monday- morrison’s is also a popular wedding they will continue to,” said de Pieri, who is Friday for breakfast and lunch, shades venue. St Anne’s Winery, Stevens brook serving up four-course menus to his guests. several longer established restaurants by estate and Silverfox Wines are other local While de Pieri is back behind the pans, serving dishes like grilled chicken with producers and visitors are encouraged to mcDougall will focus on the black Stump freekah, pumpkin, lentils, chickpeas, labne exploring the echuca moama Food & Wine bistro, a separate mildura operation he and pomegranate; or poached salmon with Trail. www.echucamoama.com/wine-dine/ opened with publican liam Wood. The buckwheat noodles and pickled ginger food-wine-trail. black Stump is set in one of mildura’s oldest and celery. The breakfasts here are also Top left: outback Stefano di Pieri. venues, The Settlers Club. Stefano’s, the extremely popular, as are the homemade Top right: The murray river. Grand Hotel, 18 langtree Ave, mildura; pies and daily specials. much of the Opposite page. phone (03) 5022 0881. produce featured is from martin o’Donnell’s Top left: Atura Albury bar. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 111

93 TASTED 57 AWARDED R I v E R R E G I O N S Australia’s engine room of wine, offering great drinkability at PINOT GRIS/ CHARDONNAY value prices. We are beginning to see appropriate warm-climate GRIGIO 9 TASTED varietals coming to the fore here, like petit manseng, petit verdot 6 TASTED 6 AWARDED and montepulciano. This will change the region’s wine landscape 3 AWARDED The judges thought in the future and for the better. One excellent example these to be good, solid and a couple of worthy commercial examples of additions. “A bit of lees chardonnays. “Again, this contact and stirring shows that chardonnay SPARkLING deakin Estate Beelgara Estate builds weight which this performs well in warmer 8 TASTED Murray darling South Eastern variety needs,” noted regions,” said one judge. Australia Semillon Moscato 2014 HHH 4 AWARDED Some attractive floral Sauvignon Blanc one judge. characters on the 2014 HHH A mixed group with tropical nose and a Citrus blossom aromas Lindemans Bin 85 Murray some good commercial sweet, refreshing with light well-balanced darling Riverland pineapple/passionfruit palate. $10 examples of moscatos flavours. $9.99 Pinot Grigio offering pleasant OTHER WHITE 2015 HHHH1/2 Slightly oily nose with drinking fruity styles. SAUvIGNON subtle pear aromas. The vARIETALS & Beelgara Estate BLENDS BLANC palate is soft and round and toasty with pear- South Eastern 6 TASTED like flavours and some Australia Brut 4 TASTED 2 AWARDED residual sugar but has Cuvee NV HHHH 3 AWARDED the acid to balance it. Light yeast autolysis $7 on the nose and a Small but solid class The two recommended well-constructed palate here showed nice Beelgara Estate with nice fullness and of good alternative structure and creamy South Eastern intensity of citrussy/ varieties. Australia Pinot yeasty flavours. texture. Grigio 2014 HHH1/2 $14.95 Bassham Riverland “Skin contact style” Petit Manseng Lindemans Bin 95 with good flavour Trentham La 2014 HHHH1/2 Murray darling intensity and crisp Famiglia Murray Nice nutty marzipan-like Riverland Sauvignon acidity. Good example of Trentham Estate darling Moscato notes to the peachy/ Blanc 2014 HHHH this type of pinot grigio. Murray darling 2015 HHH citrussy nose with an Grassy green bean $9.99 Chardonnay Good drinkable style with interestingly textured characters dominate the amazing tropical aromatics palate loaded with long nose. Well-constructed Trentham Estate 2014 HHHH Oak-driven nose and more of the same on persistent nutty flavours palate shows creamy Murray darling with some citrus and the palate. $15 and showing a slightly length with zesty Pinot Gris 2014 HHH pineapple notes. Nicely oily finish. $20 passionfruit flavours. Enticingly soft, creamy textured palate showing South Point Estate $7 and flavoursome style depth and persistence South Eastern Whistling Kite with plenty of consumer of varietal fruit flavours. Australia Pink Biodynamic Pepperton Estate appeal. $16 $16 Moscato 2014 HHH Wine Riverland Two Thumbs South Subtle floral muscat Petit Manseng Eastern Australia deakin Estate bouquet and some lively 2014 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Murray darling muscaty flavours. Light, nutty, herbal and 2014 HHH Chardonnay $4.99 peach-like aromas with Tropical lift to the nose 2014 HHH1/2 lovely florals on the and good level of fruit Flinty nose with a lively palate and crisp intensity across the grassy/citrus hint. Well- acidity across its entire palate. Very drinkable! constructed palate, length. $25 $16.99 nicely balanced, good flavour intensity and persistence. $10 112 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e g i o n a l t a s t i n g Lindemans Claire Creek 919 Riverland 919 Riverland durif Kingston Estate Bin 65 Murray South Eastern Touriga 2012 HHH1/2 Echelon Riverland darling Riverland Australia 2012 HHHH1/2 Big, rich and dense; Petit Verdot Chardonnay Chardonnay Fleshy fruit fragrances a mélange of plums, 2012 HHH 2014 HHH 2014 HHH with a spicy perfumed chocolate and coffee A classic; elegant and Fragrances of white A toasty and tropical lift and spicy dark fruit with a mulberry lift. intense with peppery peaches with citrussy bouquet with good flavours with silky Great concentration for prune aromas and flavours balanced by intensity of stonefruit smooth tannins across this region. $50 sweet/sour flavours. sweet toasty oak. $7 flavours on the palate. the length of the palate. Drink now. $25 $4.99 Shows what this variety Kingston Estate BEST McGuigan Black is capable of! $40 Riverland Petit VALUE MERLOT BUYS Label Chardonnay OTHER RED Verdot 2014 HHH 2014 HHH Bassham Riverland A light youthful wine 4 TASTED In the tropical fruit vARIETALS Lagrein 2013 HHHH with firm upfront dark 2 AWARDED spectrum offering good Richness of dark berry berry fruit laced with consumer appeal for 15 TASTED aromas and quite a spicy notes. $15 early drinking. $6.45 15 AWARDED viscous palate with Generally disappointing attractive berry flavours Trentham Estate but there were a couple Great consistency and nicely integrated Murray darling of good commercial here with most of tannins. Interesting! $25 Pinot Noir examples from this 2014 HHH these varieties suiting Bassham Riverland Tarry rich strawberry jam difficult variety. the warmer regions. Nero d’Avola nose and an attractive St Anne’s Big Rivers “Very exciting group,” 2013 HHHH light cherry flavoured Merlot 2013 HHH1/2 Ripe red currant aromas; palate. $16 enthused one judge. some black olives. Palate High acid style with has lovely sweetness Salena Estate plenty of chocolate, Whistling Kite and intensity of dark Riverland Nero cherry and raspberry Biodynamic berry fruit flavours with d’Avola 2014 HHH aromas and flavours. Wine Riverland good tannins. $25 Plum and rhubarb Good tannin backbone. Petit Verdot aromas with green $19 2014 HHHH1/2 La La Land Murray nuances which are Great example of this darling Tempranillo echoed on the well-built Burk Salter style. Excellent depth 2013 HHH1/2 palate. $20 Moorunde Reserve of colour. Spicy and Dark cherries on the Riverland Merlot peppery on the berry nose with earthy La La Land Murray 2012 HHH fruit nose with a firm menthol notes. Light darling Malbec Some depth of plum-like but generous fruit palate charry palate with a 2013 HHH aromas. Good sweet that has high acid for a rhubarb-like flavour Pleasant subtlety of red plum intensity to the long life. $30 profile. $18 fruits on the nose and palate. “Drink now with rounded plum palate food.” $32 Elmfield South Whistling Kite Bassham Riverland with a toasty finish. Eastern Australia Biodynamic Montepulciano $18 CABERNET Chardonnay Wine Riverland 2013 HHH1/2 2014 HHH Montepulciano Smells of cherry Salena Estate BLENDS Some citrus and 2013 HHHH1/2 pastilles with nice meaty Riverland 4 TASTED some peaches on the A perfumed lift to the notes. Similar characters Montepulciano nose with toasty oak dark cherry nose with echoed on the long well- 2012 HHH 2 AWARDED dominating the palate. some meaty elements structured palate. $25 Sour cherry aromas with $3.99 showing through. Soft some earthiness and an The best here had good and silky smooth in the 919 Riverland intensity of sweet rich mouth. Great example Tempranillo fruit flavours. $20 mid-weight fruit and nice of a warm climate 2012 HHH1/2 balance and structure. Montepulciano. $35 Earthy charry nose; hints of herbs. Dark dense cherry flavours balanced with toasty oak. Developing leathery notes. $40 judges Eric Semmler Jonathan Creek Paul Kernich Proprietor of 919 Wine Senior winemaker of Senior Winemaker Company. Formerly operations at Zilzie at Angove’s wines. winemaker for the Hardy Winery. Formerly Has judged at the Wine Company. Previously winemaker at Limestone Coast, with Brown Brothers Gallo Winery (US) Riverland and and Auldstone Cellars. and Coldstream Swan Hill wine Has spent eight years as Hills, Nepenthe & shows. Previously fortified winemaker for Brokenwood wineries. winemaker at Hardys. Associate judge at Associate judge at the Stonehaven Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and Inland wine show in (Limestone Coast) Riverland shows. Swan Hill. and Berri Estates. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 113

R I V E R R E G I O N S Trentham Estate Burk Salter Burk Salter SWEET & Murray darling Moorunde Reserve Moorunde Reserve Cabernet Merlot Riverland Cabernet Riverland Shiraz FORTIFIED 2013 HHHH Sauvignon 2012 HHHH 9 TASTED Simple, intense and 2012 HHHH High acid style with 8 AWARDED persistent with attractive Thick syrupy wine toasty oak sitting on top richness of redcurrant, with chocolate and of intense berry/plum- plum, raspberry and blackcurrants on the like fruit with consistent Great class with chocolate on both the nose and a big tannic tannins. Starting to excellent examples of nose and palate. $16 palate with sweet oak wane - drink soon. $32 the classic styles we balancing the fruit. $32 Lindemans Bin 50 see from this hot region. Salena Estate Murray darling Riverland Cabernet Riverland Shiraz Sauvignon 2014 HHH 2014 HHH1/2 Nuances of violets and Classic nose of tobacco spices on the nose and leaf, cassis fruit and bright sweet red berry minty notes. Long, flavours. $7 well-structured and flavoursome savoury McGuigan Black palate. $23 Label South Eastern Australia Shiraz St Anne’s Perricoota Trentham Estate BEST 2014 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Murray darling VALUE Firm elegant style BUYS 2013 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHHHH with attractive spicy Dark berry bouquet Very appealing with a peppery varietal fruit and and interesting violet red berry lift to the nose appealing sweet oak. and cassis-like flavours and spicy perfumed $6.45 layered with sweet oak notes. On the palate the and chewy tannins. juicy raspberry fruit is devlins Mount $19 seamlessly integrated Riverland Shiraz with the oak and 2014 HHH Lindemans underscored by tannins. Elegant, classy and very Little Birdwood Bin 45 Murray $16 flavoursome with lots of South Eastern darling Riverland spicy peppery red fruit Australia Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 919 Riverland Shiraz characters. $12 919 Pale dry Shiraz Merlot 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 Riverland Apera 2014 HHH Confectionery sweet Deep purple/red wine Scotts Creek NV HHHHH Some spicy jubey fruit fruit nose with caramel- with rich spicy red Growling Frog Smells of bruised apples aromas and nice shiraz like oak and sweet red berry fragrances and a Riverland Shiraz and shows a slight fruit sweetness on the currant and oak flavours. mouthful of flavour with 2014 HHH toasty nuttiness. An palate. $4.99 $7 good tannin structure. Soft and alluring spicy abundance of crisp flor Still very young and floral bouquet and flavours on the elegant, fresh and lengthy palate CABERNET SHIRAZ & needs cellaring for simple jubey red berry with a lovely warming palate. $15 SAUvIGNON BLENDS another 3-5 years. $40 finish. $30 7 TASTED 19 TASTED Bassham Riverland 4 AWARDED 8 AWARDED Shiraz 2014 HHHH Inky rich berry bouquet and good fruit weight on The best of the “Overall the cabernet the palate with toasty “Bordeaux” style varietals were more oak, charry tannins and varieties with nice dependable than the warming alcohol finish. STAR RATINGS HHHHH 3-5 $25 chocolate and shiraz,” thought one Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of blackcurrant rather judge. “This is quite excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. than the minty/leafy surprising as shiraz All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry examples from cooler is more forgiving. Too professionals and are compared in peer regions. “These are many of these were classes by three judges. wines you want to go either overoaked or CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. back to and have another extracted or showed CD Cellar door price. glass,” said one judge. obvious old oak.” CDO Cellar door only. “Encouraging!” SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 151-152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 114 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e g i o n a l t a s t i n g 919 Limited Release 919 Riverland Riverland Vintage Classic Tawny 2009 HHHHH NV HHHH1/2 Great example of this A classic tawny as style. Earthy savoury the name says! Long, aromas. Lovely sweet complex and balanced fruit flavours and good with good spirit tannin consistency across selection and loads of the length of the palate. sweet nutty characters Attractive aged characters with hints of citrus rind developing. $50 and dried apricots. $30 919 Classic 919 Riverland Riverland Topaque Classic Muscat NV HHHHH NV HHHH Excellent topaque Smells and tastes like characters here. Toffee an aged Christmas cake. and cold tea notes on Subtle floral notes to the malty toffee nose. the nose and a long, Great weight and lingering palate that intensity of raisined finishes quite dry. $40 muscatels character and showing aged Bassham Black notes. $40 Current Liqueur Riverland Liqueur 919 Riverland 2014 (500mL) HHHH Vintage Very thick and 2013 HHHHH concentrated with Restrained elegant and aromas of anise and ripe very feminine. Dark plums. Palate offers a berry bouquet with floral mouthful of plum and notes. Good balance licorice flavours. Good of fruit, sugar and acid tannins. $28 on the slightly firm tannic palate with well Beelgara Estate integrated spirit. $60 South Eastern Australia Late Harvest Riesling 2014 HHH Simple fruit-driven style with dusty floral notes and some nice toastiness. $9.99 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 115

t r a v e l b r i e f s WINSOR DOBBIN OTAGO (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) MAKING WAVES pumpkin gnocchi. oaks Shores’ serviced- pools are hot and steamy in the winter apartment accommodation offering has and cool and shady in the summer. each SHoreS restaurant is one of the newer received an upgrade with a choice of one-, bathing room can accommodate up to dining options in Queenstown and is two- and three-bedroom apartments and four guests and prices for one-hour start making waves after being rebranded four-bedroom penthouses all with under- from $88 for two adults. A $25 indulgence following a makeover of the oaks Shores floor heating, double glazed windows, pack features two large spa towels, a resort. Formerly known as Seasons large TVs with cable channels and internet bottle of cold mineral water, two glasses restaurant & bar, Shores offers breakfast access. “The relaunch of Shores restaurant of sparkling wine, two tubs of ice cream and dinner experiences, along with a has been an exciting step in oaks Shores’ and an aromatherapy burner. onsen Hot tapas and wine menu created by executive refurbishment program, giving guests and Pools, 160 Arthurs Point rd, Arthurs Point, chef Frank bergiseker. The restaurant visitors alike a fresh and convenient dining Queenstown; phone +64 3 442 5707. www. revamp also included new music, lighting option when staying for leisure or business,” onsen.co.nz. and heating systems, flooring, paint and says oaks Hotels & resorts Ceo brett furniture, but the stunning backdrop of lake Pointon. Visit www.oakshotelsresorts.com. Wakatipu remains. There is a lounge area ON HISTORY’S TRAIL where guests can enjoy a coffee or pre- JUMP IN CeNTrAl otago might nowadays be dinner drink by the fire and the restaurant synonymous with fine pinot noir but it has floor-to-ceiling windows, ensuring WHeN visitors to Central otago have had uninterrupted views over the lake and the their fill of wine and food they can relax, was once the scene of a gold rush when mountain ranges beyond. The tapas menu unwind and soak up the spectacular prospectors flocked to New Zealand’s is available from 4–11pm daily with dishes mountain scenery at the luxurious onsen deep south. like green-lip mussels steamed in a Thai Hot Pools. in a stunning location high on The new roxburgh Gorge Cycle Trail coconut, chilli, lemongrass and coriander the cliffs overlooking the Shotover river follows their tracks into the rugged broth. or enjoy herb and Dijon mustard canyon, the pools come complete with landscape where they once sought their crusted rack of South island lamb served private showers, changing areas and fortune. Today the region is known for its on roast garlic kumara puree, baby beets, picture windows that are retractable at farming, fruit growing and wines, along with beans and rosemary jus. or maybe sample the touch of a button. Filled with a mixture a flourishing tourism industry propelled by roasted duck breast with homemade of pure spring water and lake water, the cycle and walking trails. one of these is the 116 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

t r a v e l b r i e f s offering contemporary dishes from a menu that focuses on fresh, local and seasonal produce. Specialities include five-spice duck breast, sesame cured salmon, beef carpaccio, merino lamb rump and pan- roasted fresh fish, while desserts include a potted vanilla cheesecake, salted chocolate pot and a selection of cheeses. Wakatipu Grill’s open kitchen, rotisserie and two circular slate fireplaces create a dramatic space, while the cocktails on offer are promoted as another highlight. Kawarau Village, 79 Peninsula road, Queenstown; phone +64 3 450 9400. www. queenstownhilton.com. ALPINE BEAUTY SimPle, healthy food and an eclectic wine list sum up the appeal of eating at Sherwood, a small health-oriented resort set on an alpine hillside overlooking lake Wakatipu and the remarkables roxburgh Gorge Trail, a 34km cycling or are among the small range from artisan range. Sherwood boasts that its kitchen walking adventure trail. Along a well-formed beer company Queenstown brewers, team takes inspiration from “beautiful track with a few gentle climbs, it follows launched in 2012 by former home brewer surrounds and the bounty offered up the Clutha mata-au river through a hidden John Wallace. His signature Steam brew is by the changing seasons”. much of the gorge - a place rarely seen before the trail described as “a Californian-style beer - a produce comes from a recently planted opened in 2013. The adventure starts in brown ale with the smooth richness of a kitchen garden and an orchard that are Alexandra, a town with numerous historic lager and the fruity bitterness of an ale.” designed to provide a steady flow of buildings. Wild thyme, introduced by Also the winemaker at Chard Farm, organic produce. Sherwood collaborates Chinese miners, runs rampant throughout Wallace spent several years in his back with local farms and independent growers the countryside, fragrant and riotously shed developing his beers, and his flagship and specialises in sustainable produce, purple when in flower. At Doctors Point, has a story behind it. Wallace says gold and the same philosophy extends to the around 10km from Alexandra, the trail miners brought with them a thirst for a beer wine program, which features the best of meets an impasse requiring a pre-arranged that originated in the Californian goldfields. New Zealand’s independent producers 12km jet boat trip to bridge the missing it was called “Steam” - a highly charged alongside rarities from artisan producers link before moving on to lake roxburgh. brew that let off a good head of steam when around the globe, many of them “natural” Visitors can enjoy a refreshing beer (there’s the barrels were tapped. He has dedicated wines. expect to find dishes like asparagus a big choice of boutique ales and beers) Steam brew to “those hardy pioneers with chives and hazelnuts, or quinoa or wine (think Hinton estate or Peregrine) who arrived here thirsty and probably left with Seville orange, raddichio and leek. at lake roxburgh lodge. There are two here broke”. Wallace says: “We use only Those with meatier tastes can opt for other New Zealand Cycle Trail Great locally grown malt and hops in the beer grass-fed beef short ribs, or roast merino rides in the area, both of which link to the production, and the beer is not filtered or lamb leg. The wine list features familiar roxburgh Gorge Trail. below roxburgh refined in order to retain maximum flavour.” names like rippon and Felton road, but Hydro Dam is the start of the Clutha Gold Visit www.queenstownbrewers.co.nz. also wines from Gigondas and the Alto- Trail, a spectacular two–four day riverside Adige. Sherwood also offers comfortable ride sharing a similarly glittering history. LAKE VIEWS accommodation from bunkrooms to a two- The Central otago rail Trail, over 150km, bedroom loft apartment, as well as yoga, can also be joined at Alexandra. www. You can’t beat the Wakatipu Grill at the pilates and meditation. Sherwood is a few nzcycletrail.com/roxburgh-gorge-trail. Hilton Queenstown resort & Spa when kilometres out of town at 554 Frankton rd, it comes to location. Diners can enjoy Queenstown; phone+64 3 450 1090. www. LETTING OFF STEAM gazing through vast windows framing sherwoodqueenstown.nz. loVerS of craft brews will want to seek views over lake Wakatipu, or take to the out Steam brew and Dead Snake Porter terrace and relax by the outdoor fire pit. Opposite page: The oak Shore restaurant. while visiting Central otago. The beers The Wakatipu Grill is open daily from 4pm Above: roxburgh Gorge Trail. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 117

86 TASTED 58 AWARDED OTA G O Central Otago & Waitaki Valley Pinot noir and pinot gris dominated this tasting of wines from Peregrine Vintage Weaver Estate 2012 HHH1/2 Central otago Pinot Central Otago and the neighbouring, far smaller Waitaki Valley, Full-flavoured blend of Gris 2013 HHHH in North Otago. The judges enjoyed a strong lineup of perfumed, pinot noir (50%) and Floral, weighty wine, chardonnay (47%) with a estate-grown, hand- richly flavoured pinot noirs from the warm 2013 vintage. The splash of pinot meunier picked and fermented whites included impressive, distinctly cool-climate examples of (3%), grown at Gibbston in an even split of tanks and French oak barrels and disgorged after bottle-fermented sparkling, riesling and sweet white, and some two years on its yeast (30% new). Generous, lees. Crisp, with tightly lively, peachy flavours, attractively scented, dryish, strongly varietal pinot gris from 2014. structured, citrusy, with a hint of oak and yeasty flavours, showing a dryish, well-rounded, good complexity and lingering finish. Enjoyed Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available length. $50 (A) by all panellists. $27 in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Hawkshead Central PINOT GRIS otago Pinot Gris 12 TASTED 2013 HHH1/2 6 AWARDED Attractively scented, full-bodied Gibbston SPARkLING Akarua Rosé A class of variable wine with strong, lively, 4 TASTED Brut NV HHHH quality. Some wines yellow fruit flavours and a dryish finish. Finely Pale pink, vivacious 4 AWARDED blend of pinot noir were a bit mean and textured and maturing (61%) and chardonnay angular, with underripe, well. $26 A small but impressive (39%), estate-grown ‘green’ notes showing, class of very fresh, crisp at Bannockburn and but the top-scoring Brennan Gibbston Central otago Pinot disgorged after two and lively sparklings, years on its yeast lees. wines were much more Gris 2011 HHH highlighted by a notably Crisp and dry, with attractive - perfumed Fleshy wine with rich and complex vintage fresh, gentle strawberry and weighty, with ripe, satisfying depth of slightly sweet, citrusy and spice flavours, bottling from Akarua. showing excellent rich flavours. flavours. Weighty, finely complexity and length. textured and maturing $42 (A) Rockburn Central gracefully. $28 otago Pinot Gris Akarua Brut 2014 HHHH Peregrine Central NV HHH1/2 Attractively scented, otago Pinot Gris Pale, crisp and lively with ripe, pear-like 2014 HHH blend of pinot noir aromas. Strong, pure Fleshy blend of (60%) and chardonnay fruit flavours, citrusy and Bendigo and Pisa fruit, (40%), estate-grown peachy, with an off-dry, mostly handled in at Bannockburn and crisp finish. $30 (A) tanks, but 10% was Akarua disgorged after two fermented in French Bannockburn years on its yeast lees. Tarras Vineyards oak puncheons. Fresh, Vintage Brut Citrusy, appley and Central otago Pinot ripe peach and pear 2010 HHHHH moderately yeasty, with Gris 2014 HHHH flavours, with a slightly Rich, complex, nutty a finely balanced finish. Grown at Alexandra, this spicy, finely balanced blend of pinot noir (54%) $33 (A, UK) is a gently perfumed finish. $27 (A, UK) and chardonnay (46%), wine, displaying good grown at Bannockburn varietal character. It and disgorged after has dryish pear and four years on its yeast quince flavours, showing lees. Highly fragrant, excellent balance and with intense, peachy, length. $29 (A, UK) yeasty flavours, showing impressive complexity and length. Praised by one judge as ‘great!’ $45 (A) 118 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e g i o n a l t a s t i n g RIESLING CHARDONNAY Charcoal Gully SWEET PINOT NOIR 4 TASTED 4 TASTED Sally’s Pinch WHITES 50 TASTED Central otago 2 AWARDED 2 AWARDED Gewurztraminer 2 TASTED 38 AWARDED 2014 HHH 1 AWARDED Pale, fresh, medium-dry A strong class, featuring Alexandra Wine style with a slightly Company Feraud’s musky perfume and many impressive Central otago lively, finely balanced Nevis Bluff wines with the classic Chardonnay lemon, apple and Selection de cherry, spice and 2014 HHH1/2 spice flavours. Good Grains Noble Mouthfilling, ripe wine drinkability. $23 Pinot Gris 2014 dried herb aromas with good depth of (375ml) HHHH1/2 and flavours typical citrusy, peachy, toasty OTHER Lovely, honeyed, of Otago pinot noir. flavours, showing botrytis-enriched Most of the top wines some complexity, and a WHITES bouquet, leading into smooth, slightly buttery a concentrated wine were from the slightly finish. $22 5 TASTED with sweet pear and warmer than average 2 AWARDED marmalade flavours, 2013 vintage, which Pasquale Waitaki enlivened by fresh Valley Chardonnay acidity. Impressive reduced acid levels. 2012 HHH1/2 Bannock Brae complexity and length. The panel also found Tightly structured, Marlene’s Central One judge scored it five some disappointing distinctly cool-climate otago Gruner stars. $35 (A) wine with citrusy, lively Veltliner 2014 HHH 2013s – often marketed flavours, woven with Slightly musky bouquet. ROSÉ by producers based fresh acidity, and a Medium-bodied, with outside the region - lengthy, slightly buttery satisfying depth of 1 TASTED which showed signs of finish. $39 citrusy, slightly spicy 1 AWARDED Ceres Composition flavours and a dry finish. over-cropping and over- Central otago GEWURZTRAMINER (Partly oak-aged.) $23 (A) extraction. Riesling 2014 HHHH 4 TASTED Brennan B2 Fragrant Bannockburn Peregrine Central Central otago Rosé wine with strong, 2 AWARDED otago Sauvignon 2013 HHH citrusy, limey aromas Blanc 2014 HHH Aromatic wine, estate- and flavours, showing Fresh, mouthfilling wine grown in the Gibbston good freshness and Charcoal Gully with strongly varietal, Valley, with a light vigour, tangy acidity, and Late Harvest ripely herbaceous red colour, verging on a finely balanced, slightly Central otago flavours, very crisp, lively orange. Raspberry, sweet, appetisingly crisp Gewurztraminer and dry. $25 (A, US) cherry and spice finish. $23 (UK) 2014 HHH flavours, crisp and dry. Generous, ripe, medium- Ready. $21 Rockburn Tigermoth sweet style, hand- Central otago harvested at 27 brix, six Riesling 2014 HHH weeks after the normal Very youthful, light- harvest. Perfumed, bodied wine (8.4% alc/ with peach and lychee vol), with crisp, lemony flavours, concentrated flavours and plentiful and well-rounded, but sweetness (56 grams/ two judges thought the litre residual sugar). Well wine lacked a bit of acid worth cellaring. “Mosel- spine. $28 style,” noted one judge. $39 (A) judges Michael Cooper Ken Moon David Roper Winestate’s New Zealand A specialist in After joining Villa editor is author of the information technology Maria in 2002, David internationally acclaimed Wine and intellectual was appointed to Atlas of New Zealand and the property law, Ken the post of Auckland annual New Zealand Wines established the Winemaker in - Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Eurowine distribution 2007. A graduate in Guide. In the 2004 New company (now microbiology, he has Year Honours, Michael was EuroVintage) in the worked vintages appointed an Officer of the 1980s, and is a widely in Oregon and New Zealand Order of Merit experienced senior Washington state. for services to wine writing. national wine judge. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 119

OTA G O - C e n t r a l O t a g o & W a i t a k i V a l l e y Alexandra Wine Mondillo Central Company davishon otago Pinot Noir Central otago Pinot 2014 HHHH Noir 2013 HHHH Fragrant, full-coloured Youthful, tightly and weighty red with structured red with rich plum/spice flavours, full, bright colour. showing a strong, Mouthfilling, with ripe smoky oak influence plum/spice flavours, (French, 30% new), showing some savoury and underlying tannins. complexity, and a firm Concentrated, structured finish. Dense, ageworthy red, likely to be at its red, scored five stars by best 2017+. $45 (US) one judge. $36 Mondillo Central Ballasalla Central otago Pinot Noir otago Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH Full-coloured, single- Floral, savoury and vineyard Bendigo red supple, with cherry, with an earthy streak plum, dried herb and running through its spice flavours, showing concentrated, black fruit good complexity and flavours. Savoury, finely Akarua Bannockburn Two degrees Central harmony, and fine- Brennan Gibbston textured and youthful. Central otago Pinot otago Pinot Noir grained, silky tannins. Central otago Pinot $45 (US) Noir 2013 HHHHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Drinking well from now Noir 2011 HHHH Deeply coloured, rich Finely textured, smooth- onwards. $29 Maturing gracefully, Mud House Central and sweet-fruited red in flowing red, richly this Gibbston red has otago Pinot Noir a bold style. Complex varietal, ruby hued and Folding Hill orchard a floral bouquet and 2014 HHHH bouquet, with rich fruit supple, with fresh, Block Central strong, lively plum and Fragrant, full-coloured aromas mingled with strong plum and dried otago Pinot Noir spice flavours, rich and red, mouthfilling and French oak (30% new). herb flavours, gently 2012 HHHH savoury. $54 sweet-fruited, with rich Concentrated, well- seasoned with oak. Floral bouquet, with plum and spice flavours structured palate with Very elegant style - dried herb notes adding and supple tannins. Still fine-grained tannins. floral, harmonious and complexity. Savoury youthful and offering Very ageworthy. $42 lingering. $39 and finely textured, with delicious drinking 2016+. gentle tannins and good $25 (A, US) doctor’s Flat Central Akarua Rua Central depth of plum, spice and otago Pinot Noir otago Pinot Noir herb flavours. Ready. Tarras The Canyon 2013 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH $60 (UK) Central otago Pinot Full-coloured, sturdy, Delicious young. Noir 2013 HHHH single-vineyard Generous, sweet-fruited Kuru Kuru Central Mouthfilling, savoury, Bannockburn red, barrel- red with fresh, vibrant, otago Pinot Noir single-vineyard Bendigo aged for a year. Floral, plummy flavours, finely 2013 HHHH red with spice and rich wine with strong, integrated oak (French, Very youthful, regional dried herb flavours, ripe plum and spice 10% new), gentle blend, full-bodied, with earthy notes, structured flavours, harmonious tannins, and an invitingly strong, ripe plum, cherry tannins, and excellent and well-structured. Still floral bouquet. $29 (A, and spice flavours, complexity and depth. youthful; best 2017+. UK, US) showing impressive “Quite complete,” noted $46 (A, UK, US) depth and complexity. one judge. Well worth Alexandra Wine “Really moreish,” cellaring. $60 (A, UK) Peregrine Central Company Alex Gold enthused one judge. otago Pinot Noir Central otago Pinot (From Tarras Wines.) Tarras Vineyards 2013 HHHH1/2 Noir 2013 HHHH $38 (A, UK) Central otago Pinot Elegant, finely poised Fragrant, ruby hued, Noir 2014 HHHH blend of Bendigo (52%), mouthfilling red with Maude Central Deeply coloured, rich Pisa (43%) and Gibbston ripe plum/spice flavours, otago Pinot Noir Ceres Composition blend of Bendigo (The (5%) fruit, French oak- a hint of dried herbs and 2014 HHHH Central otago Pinot Canyon Vineyard), aged for 10 months. savoury, earthy notes Fragrant, savoury Noir 2013 HHHH Cromwell Basin and Deep ruby, with a adding complexity. One bouquet, showing good Attractive, sweet- Alexandra fruit. Strong fragrant bouquet, sweet- judge scored it five complexity. Strong plum, fruited Bannockburn plum and spice flavours, fruit characters, strong stars. $30 dried herb and spice red, full-coloured, with with ripe, supple plum and dried herb flavours, with supportive mouthfilling body and tannins, oak complexity flavours, fresh acidity oak (French, 30% new) strong cherry, plum and and a persistent finish. and supple tannins. and a balanced, lengthy spice flavours, braced by Enjoyed by all panellists. Praised by one judge as finish. $38 (A, UK, US) firm tannins. Well worth $39 (A, UK) “quite complete”. $45 (A, cellaring. $38 (UK) UK, US) 120 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e g i o n a l t a s t i n g Thornbury Central Kalex Central Invivo Central otago Pinot Noir otago Pinot Noir otago Pinot Noir 2014 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH Deeply coloured, Supple, finely textured Floral, with full, slightly exuberantly fruity red red, ruby hued, with developed colour. with generous, ripe, vibrant cherry, plum Good depth of spicy, vibrant plum/spice and spice flavours, slightly herbal flavours, flavours and smooth showing some savoury showing a hint of tannins. Displays some complexity. $41 (UK) development, and a backbone and complexity. fairly firm finish. $28 Fine value. $25 Pisa Range Estate Run 245 Central Lowburn Ferry Weaver Estate otago Pinot Noir Home Block Central Central otago Pinot 2014 HHH1/2 otago Pinot Noir Noir 2012 HHHH Full-coloured, 2013 HHH Herbal aromas, leading mouthfilling red with Fresh, floral, mid-weight into a finely structured generous, ripe flavours, red with vibrant spice red with an earthy showing some elegance and dried herb flavours, streak, good, savoury and complexity. Strongly moderate complexity complexity and a oaked - according to one and good length. $55 moderately persistent judge - but has supple (A, UK) finish. $35 tannins and plenty of drink-young appeal. $32 Lowburn Ferry Nanny Goat Aravin Central Ceres Composition Skeleton Creek Vineyard Central otago Pinot Noir Central otago Pinot Rockburn Central Central otago Pinot otago Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Noir 2012 HHH1/2 otago Pinot Noir Noir 2013 HHH 2014 HHHH Fragrant, still fresh Fresh, lively 2013 HHH1/2 Fresh, full-coloured red Ruby-hued, floral, very and lively wine in an Bannockburn red with Vibrant, supple, with strong plum, berry, youthful and finely attractive, mid-weight “a Burgundian nose,” finely textured red, spice and dried herb structured red with style with very good according to one medium-bodied, flavours. One judge strong, vibrant plum, depth of vibrant plum, panellist and moderately with moderately found it “slightly herbal, spice and dried herb dried herb and spice concentrated plum, concentrated berry and with an acid finish,” flavours, showing flavours. $32 spice and dried herb dried herb flavours. but another praised considerable complexity, flavours. Medium-bodied $50 (A) its “brooding, dense and ripe, supple tannins. Brennan B2 Central style, with savoury palate”. $45 $36 (A, US) otago Pinot Noir notes adding complexity Bannock Brae 2013 HHH1/2 and a fairly firm finish. Goldfields Central Quartz Reef Central Terra Sancta Shingle Full-coloured, supple $38 (UK) otago Pinot Noir otago Pinot Noir Beach Bannockburn Gibbston Valley red with 2012 HHH 2013 HHH Central otago Pinot slightly herbal flavours Charcoal Gully Ruby hued, with Full-flavoured, savoury Noir 2013 HHHH showing very good Sally’s Pinch Central lively, moderately red, estate-grown at Fragrant and full- depth and a strong, otago Pinot Noir concentrated, slightly Bendigo. Deep ruby, coloured, with savoury, toasty, smoky oak 2013 HHH1/2 herbal flavours, with moderately ripe concentrated plum/ influence. $37 Full-coloured, savoury showing some cherry, plum and spice spice flavours, finely red, grown at Pisa. complexity. $33 (A) flavours, showing integrated oak and Folding Hill Central Floral, with very good some complexity. $45 impressive ripeness and otago Pinot Noir depth of plum, spice and distant Land (A, UK, US) complexity. $48 (A) 2012 HHH1/2 slight tamarillo flavours, Reserve Central Lightish, slightly and a fairly firm finish. otago Pinot Noir OTHER REDS Terra Sancta developed colour. Single- Still unfolding. $30 2014 HHH Slapjack Block vineyard Bendigo red Moderately 1 TASTED Bannockburn with a distinctly herbal Hawkshead Central concentrated blend of 0 AWARDED Central otago Pinot twist, good vibrancy and otago Pinot Noir Alexandra and Gibbston Noir 2012 HHHH fragrance, and some 2013 HHH1/2 fruit, matured in French Floral and supple, with complexity. $40 (UK) Lightish colour. Savoury oak barrels (50% new). rich fruit flavours and and slightly herbal, in an Fullish colour, with plum, a strong seasoning of elegant, finely balanced spice and herb flavours, oak. Well-structured, style showing gentle oak showing a touch of complex wine with a handling, considerable complexity, and soft lingering finish. (From complexity and good tannins. $38 (A) the first vines planted at depth of flavour. $38 Bannockburn in 1991.) $79 (US) September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 121

M I C H A E L C O O P E R A trio of reds in Craggy Range’s Prestige Collection from the much- Staete Landt duchess touted 2013 vintage, plus a new release of a classic Hawke’s Bay Marlborough chardonnay, were among the highlights of the latest tasting. Other Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHHH standouts included a pair of very classy Central Otago pinot noirs Rich, very ripe style, from Valli; a rich, complex, barrel-fermented Marlborough sauvignon estate-grown and hand-picked at Rapaura, blanc; and an irresistible late harvest riesling from the Waitaki Valley. and fermented and matured for 10 months in old French oak Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available casks. Mouthfilling, with passionfruit, in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). pineapple and lime flavours, fresh acidity, a hint of toasty, buttery oak, and excellent vigour, complexity  Craggy Range Le Sol and personality. Best drinking 2016. $25 (A, 2013 HHHHH Dense, finely textured, UK, US) Clearview Reserve perfumed syrah, estate- Hawke’s Bay grown in the Gimblett Chardonnay Gravels and matured in Valli Late Harvest 2014 HHHHH French oak barriques Waitaki North Powerful, complex (32% new). Bold, purple- otago Riesling wine, hand-picked flushed colour, with 2014 HHHHH on the Te Awanga vibrant, beautifully ripe Highly refined, light- coast and fermented plum and black pepper bodied wine (9% alc/ in French oak barrels flavours, showing lovely vol) with a gently (predominantly new). harmony, and a long, honeyed bouquet. Fragrant, mealy, slightly spicy finish. Already Rich, citrusy flavours, smoky bouquet, leading highly approachable, sweet and crisp, with into a classy, tight-knit it should be at its best lovely interplay of fruit wine with youthful, 2020+. $100 (A, UK, US) and botrytis, a hint of vibrant, grapefruit-like sherbet, and a long, flavours, biscuity oak, Craggy Range honeyed finish. Already and excellent complexity Sophia 2013 delicious. $45 and concentration. HHHHH Finely poised and very Powerful, merlot- ageworthy. $39 predominant Hawke’s ½ Bay red, estate-grown in Craggy Range Aroha the Gimblett Gravels and Valli Bendigo Clearview 2013 HHHHH blended with cabernet Vineyard Central Beachhead Hawke’s Perfumed, deeply sauvignon, cabernet otago Pinot Noir Bay Chardonnay coloured, velvety franc and petit verdot. 2013 HHHHH Valli Gibbston 2014 HHHH1/2 Martinborough pinot Dark and dense, with Powerful, dark red, Vineyard Central Fragrant, fleshy, finely noir, estate-grown at Te concentrated plum and sweet-fruited and otago Pinot Noir balanced wine, estate- Muna and already highly spice flavours, nutty, densely packed with 2013 HHHHH grown at Te Awanga and expressive. Rich cherry, savoury and long, and plum, spice and slight Highly fragrant. Very fermented and matured plum and spice flavours, silky tannins. Already licorice flavours. elegant, beautifully ripe for eight months in showing lovely ripeness, approachable, but best Complex and savoury, but not heavy, with seasoned French oak complexity, texture and drinking 2020+. $73 (A, in a ‘masculine’ style rich plum, spice and barrels. Mouthfilling harmony. Best drinking UK, US) with good tannin dried herb flavours and and well-rounded, with 2017+. $100 (A, UK, US) support and obvious savoury, earthy notes generous, ripe, peachy, cellaring potential. adding complexity. Open 2017+. $65 Youthful and finely slightly toasty and smoky flavours, showing poised, with excellent impressive complexity concentration and and length. A top personality. Best vintage, already drinking drinking 2017+. $65 well. $27 122 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e c e n t r e l e a s e s Soho Valentina Staete Landt Waiheke Island State of Bliss Syrah 2014 Marlborough Pinot HHHH1/2 Gris 2013 HHHH1/2 Richly coloured, with Dry style, estate-grown fresh, deep blackcurrant, and hand-picked at plum and black pepper Rapaura and fermented flavours. Mouthfilling, in old French oak sweet-fruited and puncheons. Fleshy, with supple, with good concentrated peach and concentration and fine- pear flavours, a hint of grained tannins. Already oak-derived complexity, enjoyable, but best and a rich, rounded drinking 2017+. $37 finish. Delicious now. $25 (A, UK, US) Askerne Hawke’s Nanny Goat Sacred Hill HALo Bay Gewurztraminer Vineyard Central Hawke’s Bay 2013 HHHH1/2 otago Pinot Noir Chardonnay Weighty, soft, generous 2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH1/2 wine, mostly tank- Delicious already, this Highly fragrant, rich fermented; 15% was is a deeply coloured, wine, grown in the handled in old French mouthfilling, supple red Riflemans Vineyard and oak barrels. The bouquet with generous cherry, fermented in French oak is ripe and complex; plum and spice flavours. puncheons. Mouthfilling, the palate sturdy, Showing good freshness with sweet-fruit flavours, with gentle acidity and vigour, it is gently peachy and slightly and a strong surge of seasoned with oak, in a creamy, integrated oak, pear, lychee and spice savoury, complex style good acid spine and a flavours. Richly varietal with a rich, smooth smooth finish. Delicious and very harmonious, finish. Drink now or young. $28 it’s delicious now. $22 Catalina Sounds cellar. $36 (A, US) Sound of White Black Barn Valli Bannockburn Glasnevin Limited Marlborough Vineyards Tuki Tuki Tohu Rewa Methode Vineyard Central Release Waipara Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Traditionnelle otago Pinot Noir Valley Riesling 2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHH1/2 Blanc de Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Stylish, single-vineyard Stylish, full-bodied, 2012 HHHH1/2 Powerful, concentrated, Maturing very gracefully, wine from the Waihopai partly barrel- Highly attractive, rich tightly structured red, this is a finely balanced, Valley, hand-picked and fermented Hawke’s style, based on hand- built to last. Deeply medium style (25 grams/ matured for nine months Bay wine with strong picked Marlborough coloured, with rich plum/ litre residual sugar) in large French oak personality. Vibrant and pinot noir, grown in spice flavours, showing with a scented, slightly foudres. Mouthfilling, sweet-fruited, with the Waihopai Valley impressive complexity, honeyed bouquet. fresh and dry, with concentrated melon/ and disgorged after 20 and a long, savoury, Showing strong ripely herbaceous lime flavours, a gentle months on its yeast lees. finely balanced finish. personality, it has rich, flavours, showing good seasoning of biscuity Peachy, nutty and yeasty, Still very youthful; open citrusy, peachy, slightly concentration, subtle oak adding complexity, with impressive vigour, 2017+. $65 limey flavours, a hint of oak and lees-aging notes appetising acidity and a freshness and depth, marmalade, good acid adding complexity, dry, lingering finish. Best good complexity and a spine, and bottle-aged balanced acidity and a 2016+. $26 very harmonious, dryish, complexity. Drink now or finely textured, lingering lingering finish. $39 cellar. $25 finish. Drink now or cellar. $31 (A) September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 123

M I C H A E L C O O P E R  Clearview Te Awanga Resurgence Riwaka Staete Landt Paladin River Estate Nelson Hawke’s Bay Marlborough Pinot Sauvignon Gris Sauvignon Blanc Noir 2013 HHHH 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH Fragrant, savoury Generous, instantly Aromatic, punchy wine red, estate-grown at appealing wine, estate- with fresh, lively, ripe Rapaura and matured grown, hand-picked and fruit flavours, showing for over a year in French fermented in old French good intensity and oak barriques. Ruby oak casks. Weighty, vigour, a minerally streak hued, with strawberry, sweet-fruited and well- and a smooth finish. plum and spice rounded, with vibrant, Good personality, with flavours, showing good ripe, stonefruit flavours, lots of youthful impact. complexity, and a finely a subtle seasoning of Drink now-2016. $20 textured, harmonious oak and a sustained finish. Delicious drinking finish. $21 now onwards. $35 (A, UK, US) delta Hatter’s Hill Marlborough Pinot Tinpot Hut Noir 2012 HHHH Marlborough Mouthfilling, savoury, Chardonnay distinctly spicy red 2013 HHHH with deep, slightly Stylish, vibrantly fruity developed colour. wine with strong, ripe, Black Barn Shows excellent depth citrusy, slightly mealy Vineyards Hawke’s and complexity, with flavours, threaded with Bay Merlot Malbec a firm finish. ‘Serious’ fresh acidity. Tightly Askerne Hawke’s Cabernet Franc style, displaying some structured, with good Bay Chardonnay maturity; drink now complexity, delicacy and 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH onwards. $34 harmony. Drink now- Densely coloured, with Fleshy, high-flavoured an earthy bouquet. 2017. $25 style, estate-grown, Full-bodied, powerful Matawhero Church hand-picked and red with concentrated, House Gisborne Valli Central matured for nine months youthful blackcurrant Albarino 2014 HHHH otago Pinot Gris in seasoned French and and plum flavours, hints Fragrant and fleshy, 2014 HHHH Hungarian oak barrels. of nutty oak, and ripe, with rich, ripe, tropical Stylish, ripely scented Mouthfilling, soft and supple tannins. Best fruit flavours and a wine, estate-grown sweet-fruited, with drinking 2017+. $33 crisp, dryish, lingering at Gibbston. Weighty, generous stonefruit finish. Shows strong Sacred Hill Hawke’s with generous, youthful flavours, oak complexity Catalina Sounds personality, with lots of Bay Merlot Cabernet peach, pear and apple and a well-rounded Marlborough Pinot drink-young appeal. $28 2014 HHHH flavours, a sliver of finish. Drink now or Fleshy, ripe and supple, sweetness, good cellar. $22 Noir 2014 HHHH Matawhero merlot-based blend harmony and a lasting Already delicious, this generous, supple red Church House (92%), with minor finish. Best drinking Askerne Hawke’s is from sites in the Gisborne Barrel- portions of cabernet 2016+. $30 Bay Viognier Omaka Valley and Fermented sauvignon, syrah and 2014 HHHH Waihopai Valley. Deep Chardonnay cabernet franc. Deeply Valli Waitaki A ‘full-on’ style, hand- ruby, with fresh, strong, 2013 HHHH coloured and sturdy, Vineyard North picked and fermented berryish aromas, it is Traditional Gisborne style with strong, plummy, otago Pinot Noir in French, American sweet-fruited, with good of chardonnay – rich and spicy, slightly nutty 2013 HHHH and Hungarian oak concentration, finely rounded. Mouthfilling, flavours, gentle tannins, Perfumed, silky and barrels (10% new). Pale integrated oak and a with bold, ripe, peachy, and excellent drink- savoury, with plum/ yellow, it is rich, ripe well-rounded, rich finish. toasty flavours, showing young appeal. $20 spice flavours, showing and soft, with peachy, $29 (A, US) considerable complexity, very good depth and buttery, toasty flavours, and a buttery-smooth Soho Havana complexity, gentle a hint of apricot, good Clearview Cape finish. ‘Full-on’ style, Marlborough Pinot tannins, and a distinct concentration and a Kidnappers Merlot drinking well now. $28 Noir 2014 HHHH herbal twist. Still youthful; creamy-smooth finish. Mouthfilling, savoury open 2017+. $65 Drink now-2016. $22 Malbec 2014 HHHH Matawhero and supple, single- Full-on style with good density, blended from Church House vineyard wine from the merlot (70%) and Gisborne Chenin Southern Valleys. Deep malbec (30%), grown at Blanc 2014 HHHH ruby, with excellent Te Awanga and barrel- Vibrant, youthful, finely depth of cherry, plum, aged. Boldly coloured, poised wine with spice and dried herb with fresh, strong berry mouthfilling body and flavours, showing good and plum flavours, a hint strong, fresh, peachy, complexity. Well worth of dark chocolate, and slightly spicy flavours. cellaring. $37 (A, UK) ripe, supple tannins. Off-dry style with gentle Delicious young. $21 acidity (for chenin blanc). Already very expressive but worth cellaring. $28 124 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

r e c e n t r e l e a s e s ½ Crowded House Askerne Hawke’s Marlborough Pinot Bay Syrah 2013 HHH Noir 2014 HHH1/2 Fresh, medium-bodied Black Cottage Attractive drink-young red, purple-flushed, Reserve style, ruby hued, from Gimblett Gravels Marlborough vibrant and supple, syrah and estate- Chardonnay with moderately grown viognier (5%). 2014 HHH1/2 concentrated, ripe plum Matured in French oak Offering good value, and dried herb flavours. casks (15% new), it’s a this single-vineyard Good freshness, drink-young style with wine was hand-picked delicacy and harmony. a peppery bouquet and and fermented and $23 (A) plummy, spicy flavours matured for 11 months that are vibrant and in French oak barrels. Nanny Goat smooth. $25 Full-bodied, it has very Vineyard Central good depth of peachy, otago Chardonnay Hunter’s citrusy, slightly mealy 2014 HHH1/2 Marlborough Merlot and buttery flavours, Mouthfilling, youthful, 2012 HHH showing considerable creamy wine with fresh Medium-bodied style complexity, and a acidity and very good with satisfying depth of rounded finish. $18 depth of citrusy, slightly plum, herb and spice mealy and biscuity flavours, showing some Clearview Reserve flavours. It should savoury complexity. Hawke’s Bay reward cellaring; open Good, easy drinking Australia’s Barrique Fermented 2017+. $36 (A) now - 2017. $25 Sauvignon Blanc first organic 2014 HHH1/2 Petit Clos by Clos Soho Marlborough Tangy, youthful, Henri Marlborough Pinot Noir medium-bodied wine, Pinot Noir 2014 HHH certifier grown at Te Awanga. 2014 HHH1/2 Light ruby, with Fresh, vibrant and ripely Bright ruby, mouthfilling slightly herbal aromas. herbaceous, with gentle red from young vines Mouthfilling and biscuity, nutty flavours with generous, ripe smooth, with berry, adding complexity and cherry, plum and spice plum, herb and spice very good vigour and flavours, earthy and flavours, showing a depth. Best drinking savoury notes adding touch of earthy, nutty 2016+. $27 complexity, and a very complexity, and gentle Proud sponsor of the smooth finish. Certified tannins. Best drinking Clearview organic. $26 (A, UK, US) 2015-16. $26 (A) Australian Organic Reserve Hawke’s Bay Semillon Tinpot Hut Totara Marlborough Wine of the Year 2014 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir Mouthfilling, youthful Noir 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH wine, hand-picked at Te Mouthfilling, full- Ruby hued, fruit-driven Awanga and fermented coloured red with very style with vibrant, www.nasaa.com.au and matured in good depth of ripe plummy, slightly spicy American oak barriques plum/spice flavours, flavours to the fore, (partly new). Lively, considerable complexity fresh acidity and gentle with good depth of ripe- and fine-grained tannins. tannins. $26 (A) fruit flavours, a strong Skilfully crafted wine, seasoning of biscuity already enjoyable but oak and considerable well worth cellaring. $25 complexity, but needs time to achieve fruit/ oak balance. Open mid  2016+. $27 Askerne Hawke’s Clearview White Bay Merlot Franc Caps Hawke’s Bay Malbec 2014 HHH Chardonnay Medium-bodied, merlot- 2014 HHH1/2 based red, matured in Mouthfilling and French and American vibrantly fruity, with oak (25% new). Bright strong, youthful, ruby, it is fresh, vibrantly citrusy, peachy flavours. fruity and smooth, with Fermented with ripe, plummy flavours, new French oak, it is some earthy notes, designed to be a return moderate complexity “to the excesses of the and gentle tannins. 1980s, with loads of Enjoyable young. $22 oak”, but at this stage lacks the complexity of its Beachhead stablemate. $29 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 125



A U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D the wine & spirit insider September/October 2015 Issue 143 COMPLIMENTARY COPY In this issue... Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac $ New Releases & Best Value Buys under 20 The Wine & spiriT insider is a promoTional guide from The liquor Trade To The consumer. www.parous.com.au Winestate publishing aBn 56 088 226 411

32 TASTED 31 AWARDED B R A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M A G N ACR A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M A G N AC B Always a pleasure to see what distillers can do “in the St Helena 3 Star Australia Brandy NV HHH grip of the grape,” providing a highly spirited grape Rich aromas and a full-flavoured product that has the contraindication of complexity and citrus palate with lifted raisined- like spirit. $25 balance at the alcohol level of 40 per cent or more. Amazing! ARMAGNAC UNDER $100 2 TASTED 2 AWARDED FRENCh BRANDY UNDER $100 Good result with excellent flavour concentration and a 5 TASTED touch more barrel age. 5 AWARDED Château du Tariquet VSOP Solid, youthful commercial Bas- Armagnac Armagnac style. \"More for blending than NV HHHH1/2 drinking straight,\" suggested Very attractive style showing more age and complexity the judges. than previous group. Pleasant, Baroque Brandy NV HHH lifted and aromatic nose Very young and simple with with a seamlessly balanced fragrances of lemon peel and flavoursome palate. $59 more citrus on the palate. $24.99 Château du Tariquet AUSTRALIAN Classique VS Bas- BRANDY Armagnac Armagnac NV HHHH UNDER $100 Pale golden hues with a fresh, complex and lightly lifted nose. 4 TASTED A tad 'feintsy' after dilution but Berville XO French 3 AWARDED has some nice oily notes. $49 Brandy NV HHH1/2 Powerful leesy elements to the Clean spirited \"authentic\" COGNAC nose with a nice long, smooth styles here that are youthful complexity of flavours that fill and balanced without being UNDER $100 the mouth. $55 7 TASTED doctored up. 7 AWARDED 1875 Fine Napoleon Brandy NV HHH St Agnes VSOP 5 YO Intense vibrant sherry- South Australia Small group of excellent like aromas. Good fire on Brandy NV HHHH balanced spirits showing more the palate with lively oak Lovely rich fiery and oaky aromatics than the others. Chatelle Napoleon concentration. $31 bouquet. Simple palate, soft in the mouth with plenty of length VSOP Rare French and good depth of character. $38 Courvoisier XO Brandy NV HHH1/2 Sainte Louise VSOP Cognac NV HHHHH Smooth, soft and commercial Napoleon Brandy NV HHH Whalebone Cask A real classic, clean but not showing some good An elegant spicy nose and soft Aged Australia overly complex with an inviting development and heady stewed flavoursome palate with an cognac nose of fruit and oak. fruit characters. $40 aniseed-like edge. $30 Brandy NV HHHH Palate is complex and well- Fine, complex and balanced integrated with some attractive with well-integrated aromas and fruit sweetness. $99 a really complex floral/woody flavour profile. $89.99 128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

f e a t u r e t a s t i n g Martell VS Fine Cognac NV HHHH Showing great age with intense concentration of dried LIKE NO fruit aromas. Slight oiliness to the palate with very good flavours. $57.99 OTHER Remy Martin Fine A cognac of Champagne VSOP Cognac NV HHHH marine character, A bigger oilier style of cognac mellow and refined. with a good bite! Pleasant young marmalade-like fruit layered with fragrant citrus nuances. $75 Martell VSOP Medaillon Cognac NV HHH A finer more complex style with a very good bouquet and pleasant dried fruit flavours. $69.99 Camus Ile de Ré single Camus VSOP growth cognac is entirely Cognac NV HHHH1/2 AUSTRALIAN A lovely classical style of brandy eaux-de-vie raised, distilled that has excellent complexity BRANDY and aged on the island of and wonderful balance. $100+ Ile de Ré. This unique process There are marmalade-like unveils distinctive coastal fruit characters seamlessly 3 TASTED integrated with the rich oak. $85 3 AWARDED flavours and aromas that reveal its maritime origins Hennessy XO A high quality group of brandies found only in Camus Cognac NV HHHH1/2 Fine Island cognac. Some genuine aged characters that are not overshadowed by obvious here on both the nose the imports! and palate. Big, slightly oily bouquet and a lively complexity St Agnes XO Grand of oak/fruit flavours. $78.99 Reserve 40 YO South Australia Brandy NV HHHH1/2 A heavier but well-balanced and very complex style. Light amber in colour with some fire to the nose and lots of oak giving sweetness to the palate with some leesy components. $800 St Agnes XO South Australia Brandy NV HHHH A lighter, well-made classic style of brandy showing good complexity and development with good oak integration and depth. $100 St Agnes XO Imperial 20 YO South Australia Brandy NV HHHH A very lively and lifted bouquet showing plenty of complexity. Excellent palate Camus Ile de Re Fine length with a slight, pleasant, Island Cognac NV HHHH oily mouthfeel. $200 A light easy to drink style of cognac with some really interesting vibrant citrus marmalade characters mixing with peaty notes. $98 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

B R A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M A G N AC OThER BRANDY ARMAGNAC $100+ Château du Tariquet XO $100+ 5 TASTED Bas- Armagnac NV HHHH A younger livelier Armagnac 1 TASTED 5 AWARDED with a lifted fiery nose and really 1 AWARDED nice length and depth of simple The judges thought these were grape purity on the palate. $129 An alternative spirit which of excellent quality offering a Château du Tariquet Folle created interest. match for the best cognacs. Blache 12 Years Bas- Armagnac NV HHHH Vom Fass Fernandez Château du Tariquet Folle This Armagnac exhibits lovely Brandy de Jerez Solera Blanche 8 Years Bas- roundness and complexity. Gran Reserva Brandy NV Armagnac NV HHHHH Slightly oily nose and pleasant (700mL) HHHH A stylish number; full, softness to the flavoursome A fully developed stylish brandy developed and complex with a palate. $149 with a slightly heady bouquet wonderful lift to the complex and nice integration and nose and fresh lively flavours Vom Fass XO 10 YO complexity to the slightly nutty Camus Borderies XO on the well-balanced palate. Armagnac NV palate. $104.65 Cognac NV HHHH1/2 Some nuttiness and nice (700mL) HHH1/2 A classic style in the more astringency. $129 Big, dark, rich and concentrated restrained mould of cognacs style with some heady spirit COGNAC $100+ with good fire to the nose and Château du Tariquet and attractive smoky peaty 5 TASTED interesting savouriness on the Legendaire Bas- characters. $111.65 5 AWARDED well-balanced palate. $275 Armagnac NV HHHHH Not quite the complexity of Vom Fass Napoleon some but never-the-less it is A great category. \"Fantastic 12 YO Cognac NV still as one judge said, \"A first consistency of quality,\" said one (700mL) HHHH rate Armagnac\". Has good judge. Interesting fish oil-like characters use of oak, nice freshness, lifting the nose. Earthy and great concentration and Martell XO Cognac complex in the mouth with a astringency. $179 NV HHHHH very nice astringency to the Deep amber hues with clean finish. $181.65 stylish sherry-like characters on STAR RATINGS HHHHH the nose with aged nuttiness. J. Painturaud XO Palate has some real length and Cognac NV HHH1/2 Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of depth with big rich developed A well-balanced product with excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. flavours. $224.99 nice complexity, plenty of All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry fiery spirit and good palate professionals and are compared in peer Martell Cordon Bleu sweetness. $139.99 classes by three judges. Extra Old Cognac CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, NV HHHH1/2 Very stylish deep amber a major mail-order business. cognac. Big intense spicy CD Cellar door price. nose with a complex and CDO Cellar door only. seamlessly balanced palate SO Sold out. with potential for further $N/A Price not available at time of printing. development. $199.99  Contact information pg 151-152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au judges Tim Gneil Bill Hardy Stan Obst Product Manager, Corporate oenologist for Former corporate Alcohol, Tarac Accolade Wines (formerly projects manager at Technologies. Constellation). 28 years’ distiller Tarac Australia Responsibility for winemaking experience in Pty Ltd. Has been a blending brandies places such as McLaren Vale, lecturer on distillation and neutral spirits. Western Australia and France. at the University of Fortified judge at Has judged internationally Adelaide and has Melbourne and (France and Japan), and been judged the brandy Rutherglen wine an associate or senior judge at class at the Adelaide shows. more than 20 state and regional wine show. wine shows in Australia. 130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER



249 TASTED 110 AWARDED N E W R E L E A S E S A very nice line-up of wines across all varieties and styles, with the Bisol Relio Metodo Oakover White BEST Classico Extra Label Swan VALUE pick of the bunch coming from sparklings, other red varietals and the Brut Veneto Italy Valley Chenin BUYS obligatory shiraz. Great to see chardonnay making a comeback with 2009 HHH Blanc 2015 HHH Nicely aged, complex Candied musk stick a lot more attention to detail by the winemakers. Well worth some and well-balanced aromas and simple, new attention! sparkling with lovely mix slightly spritzig fresh fruity palate. Nice of glacé fruit and alert acid. $79.95 sweetness. $12.99 OThER WhITE Kirrihill Adelaide Hills Arneis SpARkLING Francois Dubois Tenafeate Creek VARIETALS & 2014 HHH 26 TASTED 1764 Cuvee Tradition Sparkling Blush One BLENDS Gentle floral aromatics Tree Hill Sangiovese France Champagne 11 AWARDED NV HHHH 2015 HHH1/2 with a citrus/candied orange drive through the Musty and cinnamon Lifted estery candy 14 TASTED palate. Fine acid. Our biggest ever class of notes to the nose with floss characters on the 4 AWARDED 3-5 $25 new release sparklings. obvious pinot complexity. nose leading to a sweet Some good examples of Elegant, long and silky simple 'cherry soda'-like A mixed result, with palate showing good palate. $25 different varieties. These Scion Rutherglen Viognier 2014 HHH everything from complex flavour and age. $35 were generally built to Herbal aromatics and yeast developed French Champagne Bisol Vigneti del drink now with some long slightly warm palate Fol Valdobbiadene champagne styles to dry Jeeper Extra Brut Prosecco Superiore having been rushed onto with very ripe flavours and a spicy finish. $28 Italian proseccos. \"Some Naturelle France Extra Dry DOCG the market too early of the best we have Brut Champagne Veneto Italy NV HHH SAUVIGNON NV HHHH A light clean quaffer. which affected their seen,\" said one judge. Excellent peppery fruit Light fresh bouquet with scores. characters on the yeasty hints of honeycomb and BLANC & nose with an abundance a fruity palate. $44.95 BLENDS of flavour complexity on 22 TASTED a very stylish palate. $89 Francois Dubois 1764 Cuvee Reserve 10 AWARDED Bisol Crede France Champagne Valdobbiadene NV HHH The blends performed Prosecco Superiore Lively yeasty complexity best here, along with a Brut DOCG Veneto to the nose. Complex Italy 2013 HHH1/2 sweet/sour palate with a couple of good 'straight' Zippy fresh spicy long acid finish. $40 varietals. There were too aromas and very stylish many simple wines and peppery palate. \"A very Champagne alert aperitif style of Jeeper Brut Grand many were too stripped prosecco,\" said one Assemblage France becoming more like judge. $39.95 Champagne NV HHH dry whites rather than A complexity of Bisol Molera strawberries and toast varietal wines. Valdobbiadene aromas. Simple sweet Prosecco Superiore fruit palate with balancing Peccavi Margaret Extra Dry DOCG acid. $49 River Sauvignon Veneto Italy Blanc Semillon 2014 HHH1/2 Mojo Langhorne 2013 HHHH1/2 Complex bouquet; Creek Moscato Lovely toasty complexity Bisol Jeio Desideri some savoury notes, 2015 HHH to the nose with a lovely Veneto Italy Cuvée some yeasty ones. Fresh lifted rose petal Grand Casino buttery palate full of Brut NV HHHH More complexity on the bouquet and lusciously Barossa Valley Fiano smoky oak and tropical Honeyed golden apple fresh, long and balanced sweet palate with 2014 HHH1/2 fruit flavours. Firm bouquet with light yeasty palate. $39.95 excellent fresh fruit. Pale gold wine. Aromas crunchy acid. Definitely a characters and a frothy $18 of peaches and cream. food wine. $42 caramel complexity on Nutty savouriness to the the firm well-balanced soft flavoursome palate. palate. $19.95 Good food wine. $28 132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

w i n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n gi n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n g w Reillys Adelaide Hills 3 Oceans The Estates Sauvignon Blanc Frankland River 2015 HHHH Margaret River A well-made, well- Sauvignon Blanc balanced ‘water white’ Semillon 2015 HHH wine. Smells of lemon Simple light grass and has a fresh herbaceousness to flavoursome palate the nose and a well- showing great elegance. balanced steely mineral $19 palate. $22 K1 by Geoff Hardy Forrest Marlborough Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH 2015 HHHH Easy drinker with sweet A light capsicum fruit fruit, good acid balance lift to the simple varietal and nice bottle age nose. The palate is long complexity. $23 NZ and complex with punchy tinned pea and kiwi-like pINOT GRIS/ flavours. $22 GRIGIO Grace Farm Western Australia Sauvignon 5 TASTED Blanc Semillon 1 AWARDED 2014 HHH1/2 Light gooseberry/lychee- The judges were like bouquet with a lovely disappointed with this racy/steely varietal palate with a nice tang to it. $21 flight. The wines lacked fruit character overall. Too Umamu Estate many were picked too Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc early. A challenge for the Semillon consumer! 2009 HHH1/2 Lovely purity and finesse of toasty marmalade fruit with some smokiness, bottle age complexity and nice acidity. $22 3 Oceans The Rivers Frankland River Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2015 HHH A soft easy drinking style simple but well-made with big tropical fruit characters. $16 Mother of Pearl Wrattonbully BEST BUYS Coonawarra VALUE Sauvignon Blanc 2015 HHH Subtle pungency on the nose and vibrant lively flavours with tingling Peregrine Wines acidity. $19 Saddleback Central Otago Pinot Gris Pertaringa 2014 HHH Scarecrow Adelaide A lifted fruit salad of a Sauvignon Blanc nose and good fresh fruit 2015 HHH palate with pretty spicy Soft, simple and slick! notes. $20 NZ Sweet fresh grassy nose and silky smooth in the mouth. $20 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

N N E W R E L E A S E SE W R E L E A S E S RIESLING Giesen Estate ChARDONNAY Ferguson Hart Estate Umamu Estate 10 TASTED Marlborough 28 TASTED The Van Leeuwen Margaret River Block Ferguson Chardonnay Riesling 2014 HHH 6 AWARDED A pleasantly simple 12 AWARDED Valley Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 style with lovely fragrant 2014 HHHH1/2 A big soft Aussie style A better class here citrussy fruit nose. Quite \"A great class to judge,\" Nose has lovely mealy - all toasty and buttery showing freshness and sweet citrus palate. said one judge. \"There barrel ferment characters on the nose with good ripe marmalade-like fruit with ripe fruit and toasty $16.99 elegance of varietal fruit. are those who are oak. Long, firm, oak- which is echoed on the \"A touch more rounded SEMILLON & really making an effort dominated palate that long, fresh and complex fruit with long legs,\" BLENDS and overall few faults has complex flavours and palate. Has elegance. $50 excellent structure. $27 commented one judge. showing up with the Grace Farm 4 TASTED others.\" The judges Western Australia Bellarmine 3 AWARDED Chardonnay Pemberton commented on the 2014 HHHH Dry Riesling A small flight of excellent use of oak and A soft toasty buttery 2015 HHH1/2 the use of 'old world' caramel style. Slight A very classy wine with consistent drinkers with techniques of lees herbal nose and long fine varietal aromatics a nice aged example. elegant palate with and an elegant spicy stirring. excellent mid-palate citrus palate with Tomasi Margaret varietal flavours. $30 pleasant minerality. $25 River Semillon 2012 HHHH Plantagenet Eldredge Clare A lovely nutty toasty Great Southern Riesling 2015 HHH bottle aged semillon. Chardonnay Simple citrus fragrances Some marmalade-like 2014 HHHH and light simple mineral/ fruit on the nose and a A well-made citrus varietal palate. balanced complexity on chardonnay with Needs time. $20 the palate. $25 lovely lifted toasty oak and spicy fruit Koonara A Song for Little Birdwood aromas. Excellent Alice Mt Gambier South Eastern palate complexity Riesling 2015 HHH Australia Semillon showing texture and Very pure citrus bouquet Sauvignon Blanc length. $32.95 with a great steely, cool 2015 HHH climate, lemony palate. Punchy grassy aromas Brygon Reserve BEST Audrey Wilkinson $20 and zippy fruit freshness Hummingbird VALUE Reserve Hunter BUYS on the well-balanced Series Margaret Valley Chardonnay Z Wine Eden Valley palate. $4.99 River Chardonnay 2013 HHHH Riesling 2015 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 Fragrances of Very varietal with lovely Lashings Margaret Smoky fruit complexity honeysuckle and toast. fresh spicy lime/lemon River Semillon on the nose with an Super palate that's characters and years Sauvignon Blanc attractive funkiness. lean, firm and dry with BEST ahead of it. $20 2014 HHH VALUE Very creamy in the classy elegance and nice BUYS Lifted herbaceous fruit Brygon Reserve mouth with excellent savoury tang. $36.50 Yarrh Canberra bouquet and interestingly Flying High Margaret flavour profile. Has great Riesling 2015 HHH textured palate with River Chardonnay complexity and texture. Peccavi Margaret Big juicy lime nose good line of acid. $16 2014 HHHH1/2 $19.99 River Chardonnay and well-structured Balanced, lively 2012 HHHH grapefruit-like palate. number with length Big soft old fashioned \"Will evolve well,\" said and softness and very style of chardonnay with one judge. $25 stylish toasty, nutty oak rich honeyed melon fruit seamlessly integrated with ripe melon fruit and characters and some supported by a firm acid well-handled oak to backbone. $19.99 match. $58 judges Marc Van Halden Stephen John Scott Rawlinson Winemaker at Yalumba Owner/winemaker of Senior winemaker for Wines. Formerly Stephen John Wines. Fleurieu Vintners & Boar’s winemaker in South More than 30 years’ Rock Winery. Former chief Africa for nine years winemaking experience. winemaker for Serafino plus French vintage Has judged at Adelaide, Wines at McLaren Vale. experience. Judged at National, and Barossa Previously winemaker with South African Veritas wine shows. Regular Mildara at Jamieson’s Run Show, Winemaker’s Winestate panellist and and Wolf Blass. Associate Choice Awards, Wine chairman of judges at judge at Canberra wine Magazine & Michelangelo the Winestate Wine of shows and worked a vintage Wine Awards. the Year Awards. in Northern California. 134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

w w i n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n gi n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n g Tomasi Margaret ROSé River Chardonnay 2014 HHH1/2 11 TASTED Lovely complex bouquet 3 AWARDED of bacon-like oak and melon fruit. Very soft and Too many rushed to creamy in the mouth with lingering flavours. $25 bottle too early. \"Some were compensating sugar for flavour and made to a dollar value.\" But a few better wines poked through. Argon Bay VALUE BEST Estate Reserve BUYS Victoria Chardonnay 2014 HHH Slightly muted savoury fruit aromas and fresh BEST steely palate with lots of Sandalford VALUE oak. $16.99 Margaret River BUYS Range Margaret Hunter's River Rosé Marlborough 2015 HHHH Chardonnay Dolly pink wine with 2014 HHH lovely estery cherry-like Lifted ripe melon fruit fragrances and aromas with vanilla oak well-balanced fruit sweet behind and a bright, flavours on the palate. A zesty, flavoursome crowd pleaser! $20 palate. $25.99 Luna Rosa Central Prancing Horse Ranges Rosado Estate Mornington 2015 HHH Peninsula Sweet strawberry Chardonnay and cream bouquet. 2013 HHH Refreshing, well- Golden, elegant and structured palate with citrussy. Shows lots delicate fruit flavours. of class and plenty of $16 crunchy acid. $55 Rolling Pink Central Ranges Rosé 2015 HHH Simple slightly restrained fruit characters showing nice spiciness and a decent line of acid. $19 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135

N N E W R E L E A S E SE W R E L E A S E S pINOT NOIR OThER RED Piedra Negra MERLOT CABERNET 15 TASTED VARIETALS & Argentinian Malbec 5 TASTED SAUVIGNON 2012 HHH1/2 6 AWARDED Very attractive primary 1 AWARDED BLENDS fruit characters on the 30 TASTED Slim pickings here! Too 13 TASTED nose and a long tight Too many unbalanced 17 AWARDED many 'non-pinot' wines 10 AWARDED palate with stewed plum- wines here with A mixed bag but a higher like flavours. $8.99 here, showing basic wine winemakers trying to strike rate here with few faults. However, the top A really interesting flight Kalleske Dodger build flavour. faults. However there wines were elegant and agreed the judges. The Barossa Valley Mudgee Wines are still too many using Tempranillo flavoursome. winemakers should 2014 HHH Reserve Mudgee old oak which does Rockcliffe Third be commended for Huge ink aromas, almost Merlot 2014 HHH not respect the fruit porty with a massive Aromas of raisins and Reef Great Southern expressing the fruit flavoursome palate. plums with good depth quality. Again we see the Pinot Noir rather than smothering Needs food! $24 of spicy plum flavours on excitement that the 2013 2014 HHHH a drying palate. $25 vintage is delivering with Brooding restrained these mid-weight Kalleske Fordson fruit nose and fresh ripe varietals with oak. These Barossa Valley great promise also for berry fruit palate with have really come a long Zinfandel 2014 HHH CABERNET 2014. seamless oak integration way in the past few A huge wine; very BLENDS and distinctive tannin ripe and jammy with profile. $30 years. spiciness, earthiness and 8 TASTED some sweetness. Needs 2 AWARDED Lashings Margaret Kalleske Buckboard time. $24 River Pinot Noir Barossa Valley Durif 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 Mudgee Wines Apart from a couple of Clean spicy bouquet An intense and complex Reserve Mudgee examples here, too many with slight medicinal varietal with deep dark Negro Amaro had advanced characters notes and light fresh crimson, almost black, 2014 HHH from poorly handled fruit. strawberry-like flavours. colour. Huge intense Stylish quaffer with $16 mulberry fruit. Powerful interesting dark fruit on fresh oak and massive the pleasant nose with a 3 Oceans The Estates Bellarmine tannins. $24 well-made palate. $25 Frankland River Pemberton Pinot Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Noir 2014 HHH Mudgee Wines Carlin De Paolo Big rich licoricey nose Reserve Mudgee Barbera d'Asti Merlot 2013 HHH Warm oaky style but has and decent length of Primitivo 2013 Cvrsvs Vitae some lovely blackberry plum and red currant HHHH1/2 Piedmont Italy fruit pushing through. flavours. Nice level of Great nose; light fresh Barbera 2014 HHH Very flavoursome. $26 acid. $26 and spicy with a complex Pretty confectionery and seamlessly layered aromas and minty primary Saddleback Central palate with dark fruits, fruit flavours. Good palate Little Birdwood Otago Pinot Noir some tobacco-like oak structure. $35 South Eastern Australia Cabernet 2014 HHH and dense tannins. $25 Shiraz Merlot Majella Coonawarra A pretty wine. Fresh God's Hill Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon cherry aromas and well- Conte Estate Nuovo Aglianico 2014 HHH 2014 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Pleasant dark fruit structured palate with Cammino McLaren Oak-driven style; very aromas with good Great colour. Beautiful spicy red fruit flavours. Vale Aglianico ripe and sweet with upfront fruit on a long ripe cassis fruit and $27 NZ 2014 HHHH slight jammy characters fresh new oak bouquet. Lovely estery nose - and earthy notes. $35 elegant palate with Excellent bright fruit Rockcliffe Single all raspberry and red drying tannins. $4.99 flavours running through Site Great Southern currants. Vibrant, well- the mid-palate with Pinot Noir 2014 HHH structured palate, nice GRENAChE & a tight acid structure. Nice red fruit aromas balance of oak, tannins BLENDS Needs time. $35 with oak adding depth. and red fruit. $25 Flavoursome palate 5 TASTED Singlefile Frankland has elegance and Eldredge The Reserve 0 AWARDED River Great Southern freshness. $45 Clare Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHHH Pooles Rock Intense purple colour Very disappointing class Delightful perfumed fruit Tasmania Pinot Noir and powerful extracted with no wines awarded! nose and great palate; 2014 HHH varietal fruit with a Go back to the drawing complex and complete Great varietal lift to the herbal-like backing. Very board. with good fruit/oak nose. Well-structured interesting style. $35 integration and tannic palate with elegant sour grip. Needs food. $37 cherry notes. $65 136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

w w i n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n gi n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n g Flint's Of Karrawatta Coonawarra Cristo's Paddock Gammon's Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2013 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon An intense purple wine. 2013 HHHH Great cassis nose and Attractive cassis, excellent ripe flavours, blackberry and violet some spice and good bouquet. Excellent oak. Needs time. $54 flavour depth with lots of sweet oak, some Stonemason eucalypt and grippy Currency Creek “Best tannins. $28 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH Steeple Jack Big rich style with slight Barossa South Australia leafiness to the bright Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, overt acid and proud 2014 HHH1/2 tannins. $12 Shiraz” Lifted fresh cassis sweetness on the nose Kalleske Merchant and excellent earthy dark Barossa Valley fruit flavours. \"Drinks Cabernet Sauvignon easily,\" said one judge. 2014 HHH $10 Powerful bacon-like oak and rich cassis fruit. Has Mt. Monster potential, just needs Limestone Coast time. $28 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH1/2 Blackstone Paddock An attractive cassis nose Margaret River with herbal nuances. Cabernet Sauvignon Nice intensity of fruit 2013 HHH cake-like flavours with Fresh vanilla bean oak some decent tannins. aromas layered with $16.95 red berries. Tight palate - excellent flavours. Tynan's View $19.99 Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon House of Cards 2013 HHH1/2 The Royals Margaret A big rich ripe cabernet. River Cabernet A sweet nose of Sauvignon raspberry jelly. The 2013 HHH palate is bright and Herbaceous cool climate grippy with spicy fruit aromas and good spicy flavours. $29.90 dark fruits on a tight elegant palate. $35 Grace Farm Western Australia Tidswell Heathfield Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone Coast 2013 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Subtle dark fruit bouquet; 2012 HHH nice freshness to it. Subtle rose petal bouquet Lovely palate - attractive and nicely ageing palate earthy spicy elements with good balance and with grippy tannins. $30 complexity. $28 Plantagenet Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH1/2 Slight portiness to the sweet fruit nose and a palate layered with dense stewed plum and toasty oak flavours. $45 HEMERAESTATE.COM.AU The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

N N E W R E L E A S E SE W R E L E A S E S Conte Estate Hunt ShIRAZ Hugo Wines Reserve Road McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon BLENDS 2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHH 4 TASTED Big nose - all fruit pastille Mushroom-like nose and 1 AWARDED and glacé fruits with warm grippy palate with some new oak touches. good flavour depth and Huge palate with intense intensity. $40 A small group with only sweet, slightly porty, one worth looking at. flavours and pine needle Grace Farm Reserve nuances. $60 Western Australia Jip Jip Rocks Cabernet Sauvignon Padthaway Shiraz Ryder Clare Valley 2012 HHH Cabernet 2014 HHH Shiraz 2014 HHHH Dark cassis fruit aromas; A big rich cherry berry, A lean, elegant and firm some herbal notes and a drink now, style with wine with lovely depth classic cabernet palate. intense fruit aromas of spicy blue fruits, black Years in it! 5+ $50 and upfront fruit pepper characters, fruit flavours. $20.95 sweetness and light Peccavi Margaret fresh oak. $15 River Cabernet Sauvignon ShIRAZ 3 Oceans The Rivers 2012 HHH 2015-2013 Margaret River Cassis fruit and sweet Shiraz 2013 HHHH toasty oak fragrances. 33 TASTED Tatiarra Cambrian Heathcote Winery A lovely cool climate Tight earthy dark fruit 18 AWARDED Heathcote Shiraz Slaughterhouse style. Soft perfumed palate with drying 2013 HHHHH Paddock Heathcote sandalwood-like bouquet tannins. $68 and long firm well- A very strong group Great crimson hues and Shiraz 2013 HHHHH balanced fruit palate with although a few showed lovely leathery spiciness A bright crimson wine some stalkiness. $16 with an intense minty to the nose with a green stalky fruit whilst superbly complex palate chocolaty bouquet and a others were flat and that is very sweet and great palate full, firm and Majella Coonawarra stale. The best here warm with an intensely rich with beautiful shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHHH Big, bold and sweet fruit and some excellent, rich varietal fruit flavour stood out with intensity, profile. $29.95 well-handled oak. $55 with minty chocolate- vibrancy and structure like characters on the with excellent oak Heathcote Winery nose and spicy bright fruit palate with some The Origin balance. Heathcote Shiraz savoury elements. $30 2013 HHHH1/2 \"Wow!\" exclaimed one judge. \"What a great wine!\" Almost black in colour with some super oak and amazingly intense fruit with a cool climate leafy edge. $55 Hey mate, we are in the running for Terrific! wine of the year That red sure has great legs 2013 Picker’s Choice 4 ½ Stars. Contender – Wine of the Year under $20.00 Hastwell & Lightfoot Vineyards [email protected] 138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

w w i n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n gi n e & s p i r i t i n s i d e r t a s t i n g Sandalford BEST Steeple Jack Settebello Clare Gibson Australian Margaret River VALUE South Australia Valley Shiraz Old Vine Collection BUYS Range Margaret Shiraz 2014 HHH 2013 HHH Eden Valley Shiraz River Shiraz An elegant shiraz with A simple, light and 2010 HHH 2014 HHH1/2 licorice-like aromas and well-made wine with Another classic Aussie Toasty tobacco bouquet simple sweet plum rustic fruit characters and shiraz. Big, soft and and a bright alert palate flavours. $10 sweet aged oak. $25 toasty rich with decent with nice line of spicy amount of spiciness. $99 fruit and good tannin Jip Jip Rocks ShIRAZ concentration. $20 Padthaway Umamu Estate Shiraz 2014 HHH 2012 & OLDER Margaret River Blackstone Paddock Nice wine that is a Shiraz 2008 HHH The Player Barossa combination of simple 13 TASTED Old school style with rich Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 charry tarry characters 4 AWARDED estery aromas and soft Ripe mulberry aromas and plum jam. $20.95 generous flavours. Ready with excellent fresh Too many wines already for drinking now. $34 oak lift and some funky After Hours Oliver past their best because notes. Lovely sweet fruit Margaret River flavours layered with oak. Shiraz 2014 HHH they had not been made SWEET WhITE $14.99 Chocolaty nose with to age. A sign of the & FORTIFIED spicy tobacco notes times! Hugo Wines and an attractive spicy 3 TASTED McLaren Vale Shiraz primary fruit palate. $24 D'Arenberg The Love 1 AWARDED 2013 HHH1/2 Grass McLaren Vale Dense inky colour, Kalleske Moppa One lovely old style powerful berry/oak nose Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH example here. Intense plum/berry and very flavoursome Shiraz 2014 HHH varietal fruit characters, plum palate with good Bright intense wine. plenty of alcohol and Carmine's Grand length of spiciness. $25 Lovely rich ripe jammy some earthy/leathery Reserve South fruit aromas and a slightly development. $25 Willandra Reserve raw youthful palate. $28 Australia Tawny Langhorne Creek Possums Vineyard NV HHHH A liqueur style tawny Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Willandra Premium Reserve McLaren with lovely old rancio A complex nose of Langhorne Creek Vale Shiraz nose and excellent cigars and black fruits. Shiraz 2013 HHH sweet, spicy, hazel nut Soft and long on the Super rich licoricey 2012 HHH palate that has both Lovely big rich Aussie palate with Vegemite-like aromas with a style - quite grippy with freshness and obvious complexity. $25 perfumed floral lift and fruit cake-like aromas and age. $85 a rustic cherry berry flavours. Needs food. $40 Gibson Reserve palate. $18 Barossa Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 A simple well-made wine. Lovely rich dark fruit and dusty chocolaty characters with mineral elements. Needs time. $47.35 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 139

BesT Value BuYs - all under $20 Mother of Pearl Oakover White Label Argon Bay Estate Brygon Reserve Wrattonbully Coonawarra Western Australia Chenin Reserve Regional Selection Hummingbird Series Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Blanc 2015 Victoria Chardonnay 2014 Margaret River Chardonnay 2014 Subtle pungency on the nose Candied musk stick aromas Slightly muted savoury fruit and vibrant lively flavours with and simple slightly spritzig aromas and fresh steely Smoky fruit complexity on tingling acidity. $19 fresh fruity palate. Nice palate with lots of oak. $16.99 the nose with an attractive sweetness. $12.99 funkiness. Very creamy in Winetrust Estates Pty Ltd the mouth with excellent Patrick of Coonawarra Oakover Wines Phone: +61 2 9949 9250 flavour profile. Has great Phone: +61 8 8737 3687 Phone: +61 8 9374 8000 Email: [email protected] complexity and texture. $19.99 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.winetrustestates.com Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Web: www.oakoverwines.com.au Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556 E: [email protected] W: www.brygonreservewines.com.au Best VALUe WINes OF AUstRALIA AND NeW ZeALAND Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QuALifY Some wines may - if they are still available - remain 1 Wines must have first been recommended $20& under will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or comprises the best wines currently available, from big- blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ 2 Wines from designated regional tastings from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate are eligible provided they are widely available. Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. 140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Brygon Reserve Flying Spring Mountain DA Spring Mountain Hunter Spring Mountain Hunter High Margaret River No. 1 Winemakers Valley Semillon 2012 Valley Semillon 2013 Chardonnay 2014 Challenge Hunter Valley Semillon 2014 Cut grass and snow peas Subtle steely citrus fragrances Balanced lively number with obvious on the nose. Palate with slight floral nuances. length and softness and A crisp lively style with zesty almost sauvignon blanc-like Rich and lively in the mouth. very stylish toasty nutty oak citrus characters slatey with a core of long lively tropical Stylish fruit and lots of seamlessly integrated with ripe acidity and a long pleasant flavours. 3-5 $18.95 acid. 3-5 $18.95 melon fruit and supported by finish. 3-5 $18.95 a firm acid backbone. $19.99 Spring Mountain Wines Spring Mountain Wines Spring Mountain Wines Phone: +61 408 801 795 Phone: +61 408 801 795 Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 408 801 795 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 419 865 556 Email: [email protected] Web: www.wineassist.com.au Web: www.wineassist.com.au E: [email protected] Web: www.wineassist.com.au W: www.brygonreservewines.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141

BesT Value BuYs - all under $20 MyattsField Barrel Sandalford Margaret River Kingston Estate Riverland Helen & Joey Estate Fermented Perth Hills Range Rosé 2015 Petit Verdot 2014 Inara Yarra Valley Merlot Semillon 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Dolly pink wine with lovely A light youthful wine with Youthful vibrant and very stylish. estery cherry-like fruit firm upfront dark berry fruit Sweet warmth of plums on Very refreshing with quite a fragrances and well-balanced laced with spicy notes. $15 the nose with a background lot of citrus characters. $18 fruit sweet flavours on the of oak and a juicy savoury palate. A crowd pleaser. $20 Kingston Estate Wines Pty Ltd palate. 5+ $19 MyattsField Vineyard Phone: +61 8 8243 3705 Phone: +61 8 9293 5567 Sandalford Wines Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Helen & Joey Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 9374 9374 Web: www.kingstonestatewines.com Phone: +61 410 234 688 Web: www.myattsfield.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.sandalford.com Web: www.hjestate.com.au Come and taste the best HHHH½ and HHHHH wines across all varietal categories entered into the 2015 Wine of the Year finals. Friday 4th September 2015 6pm - 8.30pm ~ National Wine Centre, Adelaide To receive your FREE subscriber ticket contact: [email protected] or call 08 8357 9277. 142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Giggling Goose Single Sandalford Margaret River Trentham Estate Murray Montara Jimmy Black Vineyard Padthaway Range Shiraz 2014 Darling Shiraz 2013 Grampians Shiraz 2013 Shiraz 2013 Toasty tobacco bouquet and Very appealing with a red Slightly restrained charry nose Slightly porty characters to a bright alert palate with nice berry lift to the nose and and oaky palate with simple the herbal/berry aromas. line of spicy fruit and good spicy perfumed notes. plum fruit characters. $20 Softly textured palate with tannin concentration. $20 On the palate the juicy sweet fruit flavours. $18 raspberry fruit is seamlessly Montara Winery Sandalford Wines Pty Ltd integrated with the oak and Phone: +61 3 5352 3868 Giggling Goose Wines Phone: +61 8 9374 9374 underscored by tannins. $16 Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 438 656 012 Email: [email protected] Web: www.montara.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.sandalford.com Trentham Estate Web: www.gigglinggoose.com.au Phone: +61 3 5024 8888 E: [email protected] W: www.trenthamestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 143

BesT Value BuYs - all under $20 Mt. Monster Limestone Reillys Wines Clare Schild Estate Barossa Shanahans Wines The Coast Shiraz 2013 Valley Shiraz 2013 Valley Shiraz 2013 Perfect Storm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 Dense meaty and developing Dark dense aromas; some Slight toffee characters to nose. Generous upfront meatiness developing with the savoury nose and nicely Subtle aromas and grippy fruit palate with savoury similar characters echoed on the layered spicy fruit palate tannic palate with bright fruit notes and chalky tannins. palate. Big firm tannic finish. $19 with hints of violets. $20 and well-handled oak. $19.95 Drink now. $16.95 Reillys Wines Schild Estate Shanahans Wines Morambro Creek Wines Phone: +61 8 8358 0480 Phone: +61 8 8524 5560 Phone: +61 8 8563 0555 Phone: +61 8 8723 1065 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.reillyswines.com.au Web: www.schildestate.com.au Web: www.shanahanwines.com.au Web: www.mtmonster.com.au We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au 144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER AD_Subscribe to Winestate (glasses) QPH.indd 1 11/11/2014 11:06:09 PM

Shanahans Wines The Vin Vale by Shingleback Shingleback Haycutters Paringa South Australia Old Dog Barossa Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 Shiraz 2013 Shiraz 2012 Slight spicy edge to the Dark dense aromas; some A mellow nose of oak and Toasty caramel nose with soft fruity nose and a meatiness developing fruit and sweet mid-weight lashings of oak on the spicy lightweight palate with with similar characters palate with a drying finish. $10 stonefruit palate. $19.95 well-retained dark fruit and echoed on the palate. Big mocha oak flavours. $14.95 firm tannic finish. $16.95 Swire & Noble Estates Pty Ltd Shanahans Wines Phone: +61 8 8186 0181 Phone: +61 8 8563 0555 Shingleback Shingleback Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8323 9199 Phone: +61 8 8323 9199 Web: www.swireandnoble.com.au Web: www.shanahanwines.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au We have to wash sUBsCRIBe tO over 32,000 OUR COMPLete wine glasses each year ... PACKAGe which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full so you don’t have to. on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au online order, www.winestate.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 145 AD_Subscribe to Winestate (glasses) QPH.indd 1 11/11/2014 11:06:09 PM

BesT Value BuYs - all under $20 3 Rings Barossa Valley Totino Estate Adelaide Wicks Estate Adelaide GMH by Geoff Hardy Shiraz 2013 Hills Shiraz 2013 Hills Shiraz 2013 South Australia Shiraz 2013 Silky sweet wine with good More spicy than fruity. Delicate nose and tight dark intensity of spicy plum fruit and Meaty richness in the plum palate with chunky tannins. Some herbal notes to the nose a fine acid spine. $20 background and some Needs time. 5+ $20 with dark fruit in the background bitter chocolate notes. $20 and similar palate. $20 Swire & Noble Estates Pty Ltd Wicks Estate Wines Phone: +61 8 8186 0181 Totino Nominees Phone: +61 8 8212 0004 Wines by Geoff Hardy Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8349 1200 Email: [email protected] Phone: +61 8 8388 3700 Web: www.swireandnoble.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.wicksestate.com.au E: [email protected] Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au W: www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy. com.au A U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D the wine & spirit Issue 143 | September/October 2015 Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care is Managing Editor taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Administration Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. Lisa McPike E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Copyright 2015 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Tasting Coordinator This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, E-mail [email protected] Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any Website www.winestate.com.au 146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER



HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded Wines are invited from any producer, final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless provided that they meet the criteria a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are of the class being judged. The class Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according may be a regional, style or new release is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising tasting and generally the wines must be is taken or not. available for consumers to purchase, The biggest judging system although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more The judges wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Winestate carries out the judging Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with using Australian capital city wine show show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a procedures; the wines are not known three-person panel for each flight will to the judges. The three judges taste Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expertise and often a marketing/retail without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which expert who knows consumer tastes. this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, Often one or more of the judges are scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ masters of wine with vast international re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience, and most judges have agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade experience at major Australian wine the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered shows. We are also aware of expertise. is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce If we are judging a region, for example, above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, we will have a winemaker judge from is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; that region because that person knows wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent the local style. We balance that with drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine a judge from outside the region and not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind generally someone with broad and wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to mature experience. HOW WE COMPARE International 20 Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 93 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18 - 18.4 90 - 92 HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84 HHH Good Bronze 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. 148 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

MEMBER EVENTS NOVEMBER 2015 HONG KONG - 5-7 November 2015 Boutique Wines of Australia JANUARY 2016 PERTH - 15 January 2016 Best of the West Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel PERTH - 18 January 2016 Wines of South Africa Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel APRIL 2016 ADELAIDE - 8 April 2016 Cabernet & Bordeaux Blends Tasting National Wine Centre - 6pm – 8.30pm (Tickets available early 2016) ITALY - 10 April 2016 Best of South Australia vs Italy Veronafiere, Verona - Italy MAY 2016 ADELAIDE - 27 May 2016 Mainfreight International World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge XI National Wine Centre, Adelaide - 6pm – 8.30pm (Tickets available early 2016) JUNE 2016 ADELAIDE - 30 June 2016 NASAA Organic Wine of the Year Tasting & Awards National Wine Centre, Adelaide - 6pm – 8.30pm (Tickets available March 2016) JULY 2016 SYDNEY - 9 July 2016 Luigi Bormioli 'Winestate Wine of the Year 2015' Tasting Trenton International, St Peters - 5.30pm – 8.30pm (Tickets available April, 2016) SEPTEMBER 2016 ADELAIDE - 2 September 2016 Winestate 'Wine of the Year 2016' Subscribers Tasting National Wine Centre Adelaide - 6pm – 8.30pm (Free tickets available for subscribers in June 2016) JOIN US TODAY! By becoming a Winestate Member you will receive one complimentary ticket to all of our events listed above! The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149

We South Australians sure know how to make wine ... Winestate Wine of the Year 2014 Mollydooker Carnival of Love McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 Winestate Australian Winemaker of the Year 2014 Kym Milne, Bird in Hand Winestate Australian Wine Company of the Year 2014 Wines by Geoff Hardy WinestateMag-110615.indd 1 17/06/2015 10:59 am