Winestate Magazine September October 2015

M A I N F R E I G H T WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ BIRD IN HAND ESTATE SHIRAZ 2013 but these two are the best.” Milne’s first “Our philosophy is to express the riper which winemaker Lee also had a hand, was vintage was in 2003 and soon Bird in end of cool-climate shiraz,” Milne explains, sourced from five vineyards, with separate Hand was winning awards from all over for “so we don’t make a single vineyard wine. parcels fermented in eight tonne open its shiraz, establishing a shiraz pedigree We take grapes from the northern end of fermenters – and kept separate throughout matched by few other wineries. While he the Adelaide Hills, around Kersbrook, to the the grading and selection process. continues as chief winemaker at Bird in cooler area around Woodside in the central “We don’t expect to produce the MAC Hand, he also consults widely in Chile and Adelaide Hills, a combination that gives us every vintage,” Milne adds. “Just in really South Africa, and mentors emerging Bird in the warmer richness we want along with good vintages. We think it’s our best wine Hand winemaker Dylan Lee. It is a measure cooler spice.” so far. It’s expensive, but that’s a reflection of the demanding nature of the business With up to five vineyards in the of our cropping level, oak, time, exclusivity that Lee, who trained in Western Australia picture, each with completely different and rarity, and the quality of the vintage. and finished his oenology degree at the MAC has a short history, but we have more Waite, followed by winemaking experience characteristics, picking can be spread than 10 years of solid history and we feel in Canada, France and WA, was taken on over six weeks. our quality justifies having something in this by Bird in Hand in 2010 as a cellarhand, The 2010 MAC – named after Andrew’s upper echelon.” finally making it to assistant winemaker in father and winery founder Michael, was Nugent sees MAC as “a fair and 2012. sourced from two vineyards. Milne explains reasonable evolution of our wines. It’s a While Bird in Hand crushed 1350 that the best barrels were put aside during positioning statement for us. We have high tonnes in 2015 only 15 per cent of that blending for the Nest Egg shiraz, with expectations and that’s the right position came from its own vineyards, a factor 70 per cent aged in new, medium toast for us.” that’s been important in maintaining both French oak for 30 months (as opposed to As the results of the Mainfreight World’s the consistency and style of its shiraz 24 months for the Nest Egg). Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge reveal, in particular. The 2013 Bird in Hand Estate Shiraz, in he’s not alone in believing this. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 51

3 R D P E L A C F O L L O W I N G A PA T H L E S S T R AV E L L E D Vine maturity is benefiting our reds, especially with flavour intensity, balance and palate persistence. MIKE ZEKULICH FORTY years ago unlikely West Australian was starting to produce, the couple felt industry beginners Graham and Merilyn comfortable in the diversifying challenge Hutton planted their first vines in what was ahead. Surprisingly, they chose a strong a nervous time for the couple. Graham, a commitment to fortified wines to help grazier, and Merilyn, a home economics them on the way. The unusual collection teacher, knew nothing about growing of six made up about a third of their total grapes and making fine wines, and had production by the mid 1980s. never intended to go down that path. But in those times, full-bodied dry reds Today, the Huttons are sure of their place like cabernet, shiraz and blends were in the industry, their confidence based on extremely hard to sell, so the couple looked making award winning wines which have to sweeter styles to boost income and gained enormous respect for their Gralyn attract consumers. Estate label. Today, eight fortifieds are still made And they are also certain that their justifying the entrance sign of “Wine and outstanding Caves Rd property in the Ports” with “Chocolate Port” across the top Margaret River blue ribbon Willyabrup made to a secret Hutton recipe from ripe district has proved itself as one of Australia’s cabernet – a path few, if any other, Margaret best for quality dry wines, especially River producers would have followed for chardonnay and full-bodied reds. the prized variety. Planting of the initial Gralyn 4.5ha Gralyn is a small boutique winemaker unirrigated vineyard took place in 1975 whose label is taken from a combination of and included cabernet (about half), shiraz the couple’s Christian names – and remains and riesling - later removed. Given a a committed team family operation for it severe downturn in the beef market at the is strongly backed by the Hutton children time and the growing widespread interest Annette and her husband Scott Baxter, in the quality of wine Margaret River Bradley (Gralyn winemaker) and architect 52 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

M A I N F R E I G H T WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ GRALYN ESTATE SHIRAZ CABERNET 2001 Michael who has his own wine label. interest in their wine production, helping cabernets add to the wide range of wines Production of the first Gralyn vintage in son Bradley consolidate his skills and in the Gralyn collection – amazing for just 1978 hardly set the wine buying world on experience from his university training in a 30-tonne annual crush. fire compared to some of Margaret River’s viticulture and winemaking. But it took 20 years before the Huttons big guns and did not really indicate the At least he does not have to emulate won their first gold medal – for the 1995 quality of the great wines to come, such his mother who in the establishment days cabernet shiraz – at the 1996 Royal Perth as the five full-bodied dry reds in the range mixed nine tonnes of concrete in a small Wine show. that have excited the serious wine lovers cement mixer for the walls of their winery, Now Merilyn laughs at the thought of and the judges. Some have even likened while his father split 1800 vineyard posts counting up the many awards won which them to the great Bordeaux producers of and strainers from jarrah trees on the have included two trips abroad where they Latour and Mouton Rothschild though they property for the vineyard. have rubbed shoulders with the hierarchy sell for a fraction of the price of such famous No longer, as well, will a beach umbrella of the world’s wine producers at glittering French reds. be used to protect a tank of crushed grapes functions. “Vine maturity is benefiting our reds, And that quality has allowed the Huttons from the hot sun as it was at a neighbour’s especially with flavour intensity, balance to set the pace with prices for their leading winery in the first Hutton vintage. and palate persistence,” Merilyn said. wines. The couple sell their wines through mail “Being organic has resulted in earlier fruit Despite having three young children to order, online or at cellar door - the first such maturity and lower alcohol wines which care for, Merilyn made most of the wines in facility in Margaret River - well satisfied now we believe is due to the health of the soil the early years backed by short courses in that their sweeter style wines, including and the lower yields. We realised even in quality control, school chemistry lessons, the fortifieds have helped and are helping those early days that there was something extensive reading and help from leading consumers progress their palate education very special about the quality and flavour industry adviser and winemaker of the time, through to the great Gralyn full-bodied dry of Willyabrup grapes. Going into the wine Tony Devitt. reds, their reserve chardonnay and rosé industry has been the best thing we have As well, she and Graham, who looks (also dry). done in our lives and we enjoy being small. after 200 cattle on their 230ha property, Museum stocks yet to be released such We grow the grapes, make the wines and have always maintained a strong overall as a 1981 vintage port, 2001 and 2007 sell them.” September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 53

category winners SHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS THE STATS that count NUMBER TASTED: 510 NUMBER AWARDED: 375 % awarded: 73.5 NUMBER OF FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 34 % awarded: 6.7 NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 54 % awarded: 10.6 NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 95 % awarded: 18.6 NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 63 % awarded: 12.4 Under $15 $15-$20 $20-$25 NUMBER OF THREE STARS Concha Y Toro Casillero del Mr. Riggs The Truant Shingleback Davey Brothers (Bronze Award): 129 Diablo Reserva Chile Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 McLaren Vale Shiraz % awarded: 25.3 2013 HHHH $14 HHHH1/2 $17 HHHH1/2 $23.50 $40-$50 $50-$75 $75-$100 $35-$40 3 Oceans The Explorers Bird in Hand Mt Lofty Sanguine Estate D’Orsa EQUAL TOP IN CATEGORY Frankland River Shiraz 2013 Ranges Shiraz 2013 Heathcote Shiraz 2013 Wolf Blass Estates of the HHHHH $36 HHHHH $42 HHHHH $59.95 Barossa Dorrien Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHHH $80 54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

M A I N F R E I G H T WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ FINAL TOP 10 1. Bird in Hand M.A.C Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2010 $350 2. Bird in Hand Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2013 $42 3. Gralyn Estate Margaret $25-$30 $30-$35 $30-$35 River Shiraz Cabernet 2001 $250 Wolf Blass Gold Label EQUAL TOP IN CATEGORY EQUAL TOP IN CATEGORY 4. Penfolds Grange Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Hahn Barossa Vineyards HHHHH $27.50 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 Catharina Barossa Shiraz 2008 $899 HHHHH $30 2013 HHHHH $32 5. Saltram Moculta Road Shiraz 2010 $90.99 6. Wolf Blass Gold Label Barossa Shiraz 2013 $27.50 7. Saltram No.1 Shiraz 2010 $99.95 8. Sanguine Estate D’Orsa Heathcote Shiraz 2013 $59.95 9. Wairau River Reserve Syrah 2013 $50 10. EQUAL PLACE Saltram Mamre Brook Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 $37.99 Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa Lyndoch $75-$100 $100-$200 $200+ Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 $80 EQUAL TOP IN CATEGORY McLaren Vale III Associates Penfolds Grange Saltram No.1 Shiraz 2010 Giant Squid Ink McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHHH $99.95 Shiraz 2012 HHHHH $150 HHHHH $899 MAINFREIGHT woRld’s GREATEsT syRAH & sHIRAz CHAllENGE X sTARTs PAGE 76. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 55

south Australia Tasting Express and wine display Vinitaly Veronafiere, Verona March 22-25, 2015 Conducted by Peter Jackson Winestate Magazine, as the Australian media sponsor of Vinitaly (the world’s largest wine (Winestate Magazine) expo) conducted the South Australia display of selected premium wines as well as a guided tasting of a number of boutique wines to professional and enthusiast groups during Vinitaly. Supported by: Vinitaly and the wines from South Australia were extensively promoted by both Winestate Magazine (print, digital and website) as well as Vinitaly in the lead up to, and during • Embassy of Australia to Italy with His Excellency Ambassador Mike Rann Vinitaly. The Australian event was featured in online promotions, as well as the hard copy catalogue and electronic catalogue distributed to tens of thousands of media and • Brand South Australia Global Marketing professional visitors. Manager Mr Robert Crack Winestate was provided with web pages on the vinitaly.com web page in both Italian • The Italian Chamber of Commerce as well as English that included a menu for Tasting Express. http://www.vinitaly.com/ (Melbourne) Secretary General VisitorsArea/Tastings/day/2/dettaglio/517. Mr Luca Bottello In addition, the March/April 2015 issue of Winestate featured the wines on display with a series of display advertising from the participating wineries. This magazine was distributed • Serena Gasparini, BDM & Event to guests who tasted the wines, along with it being sent to local Italian importers. The Manager, Office of the Agent General, magazine was also distributed to the newsstands at the Veronafiere complex. London VINITALY 2015 STATISTICS: TASTING EXPRESS PRESENTS The class was opened by His Excellency MCLAREN VALE AT VINITALY Ambassador Mike Rann - Australian • Over 90,000 square meters Ambassador to Italy. The speech by of displays with over 4200 producers The Tasting Express program had several Mr Rann is at http://www.mikerann.net/ featuring over 30,000 individual wines. displays over the week. The Australian speeches-and-lectures (click on Vinitaly event featured two brands from McLaren Speech 24 March 2015 link). • 14 display halls plus external displays of wine equipment, foods and olive oils. Vale - Mollydooker (featuring the Australian The tasting went for two hours in English Wine of the Year) followed by Australian with Italian translation. There were 44 • 4,200 exhibitors (Winestate again was Wine Company of the Year - Wines by paying guests. They were from countries the ONLY Australian display at the event). Geoff Hardy. diverse as Italy, Russia, Belarus, Poland, The tasting featured wines from each Germany, Finland, Sweden, Japan, Korea, • Over 150,000 registered guests - the company. The tasting was professionally Norway, Slovenia, the Czech Republic, UK, 2015 numbers reported as being a run by the Vinitaly staff and professional USA, China and Canada. similar number to previous years. sommeliers from the Associazione Italian Their background was varied but most Sommeliers. Vinitaly also supplied Italian were involved directly in wine buying, • Open to the public on the Sunday 22 speaking staff to assist with translation March - all visitors required to pay 60 importing, distribution or hospitality. Those Euro admission each day. during the presentation. Guests were who attended the Winestate Display were charged 20 Euro (by Vinitaly). Online similarly from diverse backgrounds. A large promotion and ticket sales http://www. number of trainee sommeliers attended. vinitaly.com/VisitorsArea/Tastings/day/2/ On the Sunday 22 March the site served dettaglio/517. 2250 glasses. 56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

Guests at the Tasting Express received Tourism to take advantage of this huge the region of Australia called “the South copies of Winestate Magazine by mail after untapped market – every visitor to Vinitaly is East Australia” region and asked where the show and a brochure pack and wine list a potential “wine tourist” for South Australia. it was on our displayed wine map(!) It featuring detailed information of all wines All guests were provided with brochures was explained to all who asked what presented. on South Australia wine regions as well as this meant and how Winestate was all contact details of the suppliers. promoting regionality (and has done so Feedback - Tasting Express and Two of the wineries in attendance were for the last 30 years). Winestate able to immediately refer buyers to their 4. Many the guests were from professional The overall feedback was extremely EU based distributors. Introductions were buying groups, sommeliers, restaurant positive with guests commenting on the made for all wine makers to Sweden owners, hotel groups and more. Over distinct styles apparent from the wines Monopoly buyers who attended for 3 half were from outside Italy. from the McLaren Vale region. There was hours on Sunday 22 March. Other buyers discussion on climate, irrigation, screw cap from Italy and elsewhere in the EU made 5. Vinitaly is a meeting place for wine vs cork, as well as some quite enthusiastic introductions over the week. buyers from all countries who come to discussions regarding alcohol content. taste and discover wines from around It was also noted by the guests (at both Observations and Some Conclusions. the world - not just Italy. the Tasting Express and the display), that 1. Guests who sampled the wines were 6. Wineries are encouraged to contact there was no other Australian participation impressed with the quality and surprised those who tasted the wines at Vinitaly in Vinitaly apart from Winestate Magazine. at the low prices. It was agreed that within 30 days of the date of this letter. Some guests at both Tasting Express many restaurants (particularly in Italy) It should be noted some contacts had and also at the Winestate display would like to feature an Australian wine visited our site in previous years and a expressed concern that they could not on their list but there was no distributor follow up in person may be required. arrange business with Australian wine (yet) available to buy from. representatives (from other companies) 7. Those bottles that displayed the at what is the world’s biggest wine event. 2. The display featured wines from South Winestate medal were commented on The wines represented on the Winestate Australia – mainly McLaren Vale and favourably – it was agreed this would displays were well received with comments Adelaide Hills, with one Barossa wine help in retail and hospitality sales in the such as “amazing”, “unlike anything from (Colonial Estate). A tasting of Helm EU and UK in particular. Italy or France”, “I did not realise that Riesling was conducted for selected 8. Vinitaly 2016 is confirmed for 10-13 April Australia made wines of this quality” and buyers. 2016. Participating wineries from 2015 most commonly “where can I buy these 3. There is an amazing demand for are invited to book places for the 2016 wines in my country?” information on Australian wines and event - there is an “early bird” advantage It was noted that there was a very strong our wine regions in particular South with the site fee at 2015 prices for desire by guests to visit South Australia Australia. We must promote the diverse bookings received (in writing) before in particular. Next year it is hoped the site regions and icon styles across the 30 June 2015. can have some support by South Australia country. Some asked for a wine from September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 57

b r i s b a n e g r a p e v i n e liZZie loel Hansford (ex-Stokehouse) and Cormac Bradford to enliven the offering and also to open Gauge, a second venue opposite GoMA in South Brisbane. 11 Florence St, Newstead; phone (07) 3852 6734. Self described as “quirky and left-of-centre” Gauge is open for breakfast and lunch, and plans are afoot to stretch that out to dinner on weekends soon. Every visit should begin with the black garlic bread and burnt vanilla brown butter. It’s a forbidding looking block of nearly jet-black bread, cake-like in texture, but much softer and moister than it looks. The vanilla-scented burnt butter is a cacophony of fragrance and perfumed creaminess, it’s extremely rich so it’s best to share so that you can power through the small, unusual menu. You’ll need to choose between sourdough waffles with artichoke custard, bee pollen and freeze dried honey (which is produced IN 2004 veteran restaurateur Thierry edition is a confit de canard et foie gras on the roof of a nearby cafe) and cucumber Galichet opened Montrachet, a classic but instead of it being served traditionally, kimchi with housed seeded bread, a soft Lyonnais-style bistro in Paddington in the Kellam has barbequed the duck and poached egg, cured pork cheek and heart of Brisbane’s gentrified inner west. served it with a tangy salad, Alsatian-style skyr (Scandinavian fermented yoghurt), It was a hit from day one with the chef/ cabbage sprinkled with crisp seeds. It’s a or you can order both and share. 77-79 owner greeting regulars with infectious refreshing dish with the inherent richness Grey St, South Brisbane. Just around the Gallic charm and providing diners with cut perfectly by the austerity and bitterness corner is an even smaller venue, the third an extensive and before unseen and of the salad leaves and pickled cabbage. in Batten’s portfolio, called Maker. Broody untasted selection of Burgundian reds Expect dishes like porcini emulsion, and atmospheric, this postage stamp of a bar is a study in dark minimalism, with a and whites that he travels annually to zucchini flowers croquette with sheep’s select and import. Add to that irresistible milk cheese and macerated tomato and polished copper bar overhung by ceramic pendant lights and a charcuterie cabinet favourites like twice-baked crab souffle, pan-roasted Tasmanian lamb with braised the feature at the back of the room. There’s steak frites and escargot en cocotte and neck and a ragout of ancient vegetables alchemic artistry going on nightly behind you have yourself an icon that requires among other things on the degustation the bar, with ingredients that include (but bookings, even on a normally quiet Monday menu. Galichet is still taking care of the are not in any way limited to) quandongs, evening. Add to that Galichet’s unusual wine list so you can also expect an eclectic frangipani, wattleseed and Davidson operating hours (he closes after lunch on selection of lesser-known marques from all plums. Food and drink are combined as Friday and re-opens again on Monday over France. 224 Given Tce, Paddington; well – bone marrow whisky anyone? This for lunch), the result of which is a packed phone (07) 3367 0030. novel option is a blend of tea, honey, port, house for every sitting through the week. Sourced Grocer opened in Newstead, orange, and, of course, bone marrow and At Easter Galichet finally relinquished in Brisbane’s inner north, a few years whisky. For the less adventurous there’s control to chef/owner Shannon Kellam, back and remains a popular all-day haunt a strong wine list of quality tipple, Italian a culinary Olympian and two-time Bocuse for those looking for good coffee, quality sparkling and French champagnes, and d’Or contestant. His style differs from groceries displayed throughout the space there are choices offered by the glass, half Galichet’s in that he is more experimental, and cheeses and smallgoods available and full bottle. There is also a house beer so, while the Monday to Friday operation in the glassed-in coldroom at the back of on tap and another from New South Wales will remain traditional, albeit with a Kellam the venue. Until recently the direction that alongside a bevy of cider and craft beers touch here and there, Friday nights will owner Jerome Batten had taken was a from Mt Tamborine’s Fortitude Valley and become a ticketed weekly degustation casual one. High end things on bread, Stone and Wood from Byron Bay. Fish Lane, dinner for $95. Kellam’s technique and salads and pastries made all-day brunching South Brisbane. texture-driven creative side will prevail over a delicious option but things stepped up a Above: Roast scallop, celeriac, vermouth emulsion at the multi-coursed menu. One new entrée notch when Batten introduced chefs Ollie Montrachet. 58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

m e l b o u r n e g r a p e v i n e hilary mcnevin recipe’s a secret, says Yanni) and The Plugger (yes, it’s in St Kilda, after all) is a binge of double beef, bacon, cheese and a hash brown. There’s a vegetarian option that is filled with roasted portobello mushrooms and kid-size burgers, too. Drinks include local beers and ciders, and they’ve filled the freezer with some desserts-to-go by pastry chef Dan Grieff, including a peanut butter and jelly ice cream sandwich. St Kilda Burger Bar is open daily from 3pm. 10 Brighton Rd (enter via bottle shop), St Kilda East; phone (03) 9531 1542. Popular Chapel St cafe Lucky Penny launched a new food and beverage concept in early winter called The Hunter’s Kitchen serving warming, comfort food with a unique Scandinavian twist. The theme of the place may be built with the cold in mind, DIN TAI FUNG, the dumpling den that lauded Farr Rising Pinot Noir. He’s included but it’s been ticking along nicely since it opened its original store in Tai Pei in some Victorian craft beers, too, including opened and could easily segue into the 1972, opened its first store in Melbourne Spotswood’s Two Birds Brewing and Red warmer months. Incorporating a Viking- in mid-June. The 235-seater perched on Hill Brewery Wheat Beer. The room is hunter theme, Hunter’s Kitchen serves the fourth-level of CBD retail and dining finished in blonde woods and cool blues classic Scandinavian starters such as development, Emporium Melbourne, - the antithesis to what we often expect cured salmon, celeriac puree, cornichons, arrived in town with a reputation for making in Chinese diners. There are no red or dill, celery leaves, salmon roe, rye and dumplings of mathematical precision. Each gold flourishes and it has a contemporary, hearty stews such as the Jager Eintopf, or handmade pastry made for their soupy comfortable feel that is refreshing. Level 4, Hunter’s stews that are slow-cooked and xiao Long Bao is weighed at 4.8g and Emporium, 287 Lonsdale St, Melbourne; served to share in cast iron pans. They 5.2g, and then they are filled to a weight phone (03) 9654 1876, dintaifung.com.au. are rich with Victorian venison, venison of 20.8g and 21.2g. The dumplings are “Who knew a space of just 50sq m would sausage, confit red cabbage, homemade steamed for exactly three minutes and take so much time to get finished,” says spiced pear chutney and Bannockburn free served immediately. They must have good Rabih Yanni, owner of The Grosvenor range farmhouse chicken, bacon, roast scales in their glassed-in kitchen, where Hotel and the new St Kilda Burger Bar. celery and kale chips. Customers can pop customers can watch the delicate handling The burger bar opened in June, a month in for a quick drink - they have a range of of the restaurant empire’s bread and butter. or more later than originally anticipated. warm beverages such as mulled wine and There are seven outlets in Sydney and The former shed in the carpark of the cocktails like the Tom and Jerry - brandy, more throughout Asia. They serve their Brighton Rd pub has been transformed hot spiced milk, Italian meringue and a Dumplings Gems, colourful pastry with a into a “burger shed,” say Yanni, designed Viking Rum and Raisin’ with Mt Gay rum and variety of fillings, including seafood and for takeaway only. Although there is some Pedro ximenez sherry. Or you can keep it garlic pork, and there are dishes other recycled seating - cushioned beer kegs classic with whisky sours and a good dry than dumplings, perhaps the silken tofu outside the shed - and allocated carparks martini. The venue has been decorated with pork floss or the Shanghai drunken for those waiting for their order, he is with cool, minimal lines while maintaining chicken. Din Tai Fung Australian owner encouraging the drive-through concept. warmth - very Scandinavian. There are pine Dendy Harjanto wanted to add a local The burgers are made from trimmings from cones and thoughtfully placed branches, element to the drinks list and employed the Gippsland grass-fed beef that head and blankets are available to keep diners the help of Melbourne wine consultant chef Paul Tyas uses on the hotel’s menu. extra cosy on chilly nights. 481 Chapel St, Ben Knight. Knight has put some of the Yanni brings in carcasses and dry- and South Yarra; phone (03) 9827 5789. bigger wine names on the list - St Hallet wet-ages the beef on the premises. Tyas and Brown Brothers - but also given a utilises the left-overs for the patties. Above: left: Dumplings at Din Tai Fung. more detailed Victorian selection, including The Grosvenor burger is filled with beef, Above: right: Slow cooked venison, venison sausage, confit red cabbage and spiced pear chutney at The Jamsheed, Holly’s Garden and the much- bacon, pickles and “shed sauce” (the Hunter’s Kitchen. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 59





s y d n e y g r a p e v i n e elisaBeth KinG A RESTAURANT which has dished up over 200,000 poppadums to more than one million customers has a lock on legend status in Sydney’s here-today- gone-tomorrow dining scene. ABHI’s in North Strathfield is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, which also makes cumin, mustard seeds, fenugreek and his own drum is Nelly Robinson (ex-Aria), the swish-as Indian restaurant a candidate fennel to chatpata squid - salt and pepper a transplanted Brit who honed his skills at for a restaurant version of Ripley’s Believe squid lightly fried and accompanied with Michelin-starred Northcote Manor in the It or Not! Chef Kumar Mahadevan wears a tamarind and ginger dipping sauce. UK. Since the eponymous nel. restaurant his honorary title - the Godfather of Indian If meat is more on your mind, take your opened a few months ago, it’s been pulling Cuisine - like a badge and the status pick from sundhiya - slow-cooked, hand- in the crowds for its high-class food with a is backed by the stockpile of awards, pulled lamb parcels flavoured with garam reasonable price tag. A few minutes walk hats and critical acclaim ABHI’s has masala or tikka nimbuda - tandoor roasted from Museum Station, you eat what you’re accumulated over the past quarter of a chicken thigh fillets marinated in yogurt given - a six-course menu degustation for century. It was a windy Friday night when and lime. The wine list is no afterthought at lunch, switching to eight-course for dinner - which change on a monthly basis. Packed ABHI’s. Anyone in the mood to celebrate, we pulled up outside ABHI’s, located on a major eating strip. Many of the other as many diners are, can crack open a with young foodies who regularly order the two matching wines with each course, the bottle of Louis Roederer Brut. The edited restaurants looked good but only our destination eatery was packed to the rafters selection of 16 white wines ranges from retro-style basement premises is softened Lake’s Folly Chardonnay through Shaw by 1940s soundtracks. Ella Fitzgerald - upstairs and downstairs. I have been to & Smith Sauvignon Blanc and Leeuwin never sounded so good over exquisitely ABHI’s several times over the years and the Estate Art Series Riesling. WA and South cooked beef cheek, venison carpaccio first thing that stands out from the menu is Australia get the most nods in the red wine and a full-bodied mushroom consomme that time has not stood still. The old Indian list, from Howard Park Leston Cabernet topped with a grating of fresh truffle. There’s restaurant joke about being able to order Sauvigon to Henschke Keyneton Shiraz a distinct British vibe, too. nel. restaurant, from the stains on the tablecloth - butter Cabernet Merlot. Forget utility stemware, 75 Wentworth Ave, Sydney; phone (02) chicken, pork vindaloo, Madras beef curry large European-style glasses with a deep 9212 2206. - has no currency here. Constant evolution “ping” do the honours. The daily specials The recipient of the Best Pub Food Award keeps loyal customers and the many diners only add extra time in making a difficult for two years in a row in the Time Out Pub who drive across town coming back for decision for the main course. The Goa fish Awards, The Welcome Hotel, has come a more. Kumar and his right-hand man at curry - barramundi fillets cooked in a lightly long way from its roots as a 19th century the ranges, Ranjan Choudhury, believe spiced sauce with freshly ground coconut working class watering hole. Sold in 2012 in freshness and most dishes are cooked - prompted another walk down memory for $6.5 million, the three magnets are: 15 to order. Accompanying sauces also reflect lane to India, more specifically to the Leela craft beers on tap, an ace wine list and the emphasis on last minute preparation. Palace Hotel, one of the region’s top five- Ajo, a sleek Italian restaurant helmed by The familiar north Indian menus available star hotels. There’s plenty for vegetarians to chef Daniel Mulligan (ex Aqualuna and all over the world get short shrift at ABHI’s salivate over - hot tip: aloo matar tariwala. two-hatted Pilu). Ajo is Sardinian dialect for and the listings offer some of the best But my partner wisely ordered the Patiala “let’s go” and it becomes a command as regional dishes from all over India. Kumar goat curry - Punjabi-style, slow-cooked you peruse through first courses of saffron visits his homeland every few months to goat with milled chillies and fresh coriander. pappardelle with pig’s tail ragu and truffle tap into the new trends popular among The succulence was total. The tandoori pecorino and swordfish belly, crusted with trendy affluents looking for authenticity in breads are so light it’s tempting to order bottarga, pickled grapefruits and grapefruit boom towns such as Mumbai and Chennai. seconds. Don’t. The star of the dessert puree. The secondi listings keep up the Selecting from the entrees was tough. But menu is double-ka-meetha - a Mogul-style high quality momentum - partially deboned one dish where a chef can’t falter is dosa. bread pudding saturated with rosewater spatchcock, mustard and breadcrumbs, It takes real skill to cook these featherlight and honey syrup with a side of rosewater served in the pan and seared mutton back rice flour pancakes from the south. The ice cream. ABHI’s only closes for Saturday strap, pea puree, golden carrots and olive masala dosa, filled with spiced potato and lunch because of the high demand and it’s caramel. Mulligan also does an Italianate onion and served with lentil sambar, rivals a sure bet that its future as one of the best version of Eton Mess featuring mascarpone the best example I have ever eaten on a trip Indian restaurants is guaranteed. ABHI’s, that betters the original. The Welcome to Bangalore. Seafood is very prominent, 163 Concord Rd, North Strathfield; phone Hotel, 91 Evans St, Rozelle; phone (02) from chilli prawns and scallops spiced with (02) 9743 3061. 9810 1323. panchforen (five spices) of nigella seeds, Another chef who marches to the beat of Above: Some of ABHI’s amazing cuisine. 62 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

a d e l a i d e g r a p e v i n e niGel hopKins In an era when restaurants so easily come An even longer stayer is the ever- and go, few stay the distance to hit their popular Cork and Cleaver which, under third decade. Chianti is one of them, having the ownership of Stratos Pouras, has become established as one of Adelaide’s been trading very successfully for 37 best-regarded restaurants after a journey years. Settled deep in the depths of the that began exactly 30 years ago. Chianti eastern suburbs, it’s basically an upmarket recently dropped the “Classico” part of its steakhouse that has hit upon the formula for name, signifying a major change in the way what people really want to eat. You start with it approaches Italian cooking. Until then complimentary meatballs, which Pouras it had followed a traditional approach to now sells by the bucketful in supermarkets, classic Italian dishes, often with imported before moving on to dishes such as prawns Italian ingredients, regardless of the saganaki or a classic Caesar salad, which seasons. Now it’s taken a more interpretive, are simply preludes to the main act, which produce-driven approach, though still is all about steak. There’s a thick New York NO ONE has yet revealed exactly how under executive chef Yorkshire-born Toby much has been spent turning Penfolds Gush, who’s run Chianti’s kitchen for cut porterhouse, a pepper steak that’s Magill Estate into a world-class food and the past 14 years. When he shops each wine destination, but with the opening of Sunday at the Wayville farmer’s market, he the Magill Estate Kitchen and cellar door does so without a shopping list: he buys in May it’s clear it runs into many millions. whatever is best and freshest to have a Award-winning Magill Estate co-chefs menu driven by seasonal produce rather Scott Huggins and Emma McCaskill than “classic” tradition. Now there’s Deer are overseeing the kitchen as well as Farm venison, Fleurida Boer goat, Gawler the restaurant, which means the menu is River quail, Durdin Farm duck, fruit sourced far from what you’d normally expect in a from local organic farms and locally grown suburban cafe, as is a wine list that offers vegetables, olives and olive oil. The only Grange by the glass as well as a much more dish to have remained unchanged on affordable, and great value, Bin 389. The Chianti’s menu is the slow-cooked farmed kitchen is a long, ultra-contemporary space rabbit with pancetta, sage and port – so with wall-to-wall windows overlooking popular and delicious that it can’t be moved the heritage shiraz vineyard, with a small on. There’s still pasta with duck, though lounge area and multiple seating choices it’s now pappardelle with roasted duck been unchanged on the menu since 1978, from individual tables to a communal bench and garlic cloves, while the tagliolini with filet mignon with mushroom sauce, steak top. Breakfast ranges from a dainty croque blue swimmer crab has become lighter dianne, a Texan T-bone and more, and monsieur to a full-on Magill Estate eggs with and more flavourful with crab consomme a black Angas scotch fillet crusted with the lot, while the lunch menu, though quite jelly rather than a rose sauce. Chianti’s Pouras’ special spice mix. All come, as small, provides a large serve of quality and winter menu opens with a classic beef they always have, with a whacking great, class. Small plates (and they really are quite carpaccio in which shavings of dry-aged perfectly cooked baked potato overflowing small) include an impeccable waygu beef South Devon heritage beef are topped with whipped sour cream. But if there is one tartare or a decorative plate of tiny roasted with the Venetian Harry’s Bar sauce, while dish at which C&C seriously excels and beetroots with goat’s cheese and smoked a rich, luscious risoni cooked risotto-style is rarely found these days, it’s the steak almonds, while the much more substantial with slow-braised chicken hearts, livened tartare, mixed by Pouras at the table with large plates include slow roasted brisket with a fair lashing of fresh chilli and topped 13 ingredients added to the finest fillet he with slaw and polenta, or grass-fed scotch with thin strips of crisply fried pig’s ear and can source. It is still every bit as good as fillet with hand cut chips and cafe de paris crisp shallow-fried cavolo nero will leave it was 27 years ago. A wine list that once sauce. No visit would be complete without you wanting more. For a while Chianti was had Grange at $23.50 and Hill of Grace an inspection of the adjacent cellar door, a one of very few places in Adelaide to offer at $11.50 is still very good, though now a magnificently designed space that includes a traditional 1kg bistecca alla Fiorentina. It’s little more expensive, with a strong focus Grange creator Max Schubert’s personal now slimmed down to a more modest 600g on shiraz and an interesting reserve list. 2 Grange collection, which spans from the hunk of properly aged Coorong Angas, Bevington Rd, Glenunga. Open for lunch experimental 1951 to the current 2010 which should suit the most determined Monday-Friday, dinner Monday-Saturday; vintage and is signed by Max up to 1988. carnivore. 160 Hutt St, Adelaide. Open for phone (08) 8379 8091. 78 Penfold Rd, Magill. Open for breakfast breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; phone Above left: Magill Estate kitchen and cellar door. and lunch daily; phone (08) 8301 5943. (08) 8232 7955. Above right: Cork and Clever interior. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 63

h o n g k o n g g r a p e v i n e ivy nG THE COMBINATION of altitude and fine innovative fine Italian cuisine is exemplified dining may sound like the front row of an by starters such as the sea tiramisu with A380. But add to this the celebrated view of Mediterranean red prawn carpaccio, Hong Kong’s neon-lit skyline and you have seared scallop and parsley cream ($HK478/ some of Hong Kong’s best high-altitude $A79) with complementing flavours and fine dining choices. Tin Lung Heen in the textures, and his signature beef carpaccio, Ritz Carlton Hotel, located on the 102nd served thick, with creamed ricotta cheese, floor of the sky-scraping International rice crackers and homemade tomato Commerce Centre in Western Kowloon, jam ($HK398/$A66). The a la carte menu offers two-Michelin starred Cantonese features modern classic pasta dishes such this institute that embodies perfection and cuisine in a luxurious setting. With 36 years as homemade fusilli, chicken tomato sauce tradition. Set dinners only - the $HK1980/ of experience across the globe, including and provolone cheese ($HK428/$A71), $A328 per person 10-course meal follows Beijing, Shanghai, Dubai and the UK, chef and sweet pea risotto (with or without pink the traditional structure of Kaiseki and Paul Lau has refined traditional Cantonese prawn) cooked to perfection and packed consists of appetisers, simmered dishes, dishes with innovation of ingredients, with intensely sweet flavours from the sashimi, a grilled dish, soup, steamed dish, presentation and cooking techniques to humble pea ($HK398/$A66). The main and dessert. Phone +825 2302 0222. take the dining experience to new heights course of Australian wagyu beef tenderloin, For less formal dining at high altitude, and to bring harmony to wine pairing. foie gras, and EVO potato puree ($HK698/ without climbing 100 floors in an elevator, Almost every top Cantonese restaurant $A116) is the perfect complement to a Cafe Deco with its Art Deco interior design in Hong Kong boasts the best “char siu” full-bodied brunello, barolo or southern at The Peak is a venerable venue that dish (barbecued pork) - Tin Lung Heen’s Italian red. For the full creative experience, has withstood the test of time for over 20 version uses Iberian pork and is tender and head for the tasting menu (four, five or six- years, with Martin Kniss as executive chef succulent, with the honey complementing course options starting at $HK1280/$A212 since 1994 and Hari the tandoori chef the charred taste and subtle meat flavours per person or $HK1980/$A328 with wine since 1994. Dishes range from classic ($HK308/$A51). Another classic starter is pairing) which includes seasonal creations Mediterranean to authentic Southeast the steamed crab claw with egg white in such as the green spaghetti “chitarra”, Asian/Indian, with a seafood bar featuring hua diao (Chinese yellow wine) ($HK298/ wrapped with swordfish paper, baby squid 12 different types of oysters and luxurious $A49 per serve), beautifully paired with and black olive oil. Be sure to secure a sushi rolls, such as the Dragon Roll vintage champagne or pinot gris. For a place at HK’s tallest bar, the aptly-named ($HK168/$A28) packed with nine different nourishing and tasty soup, try chef Lau’s Ozone (same hotel), located at 490m ingredients, and succulent grilled meat and braised lobster soup with fish maw: above sea level, for a night cap when you seafood. Favourites are tartufo e prosciutto aromatic lobster veloute, packed with book for dinner. Phone +852 2263 2270. pizza ($HK198/$A33), smoked Scottish delicate but intense flavours and served Tenku RyuGin is just one floor below, salmon on naan bread ($HK186/$A31), with fresh lobster meat and creamy fish but does not form part of the same aromatically spiced tandoori Himalayan maw ($HK688/$A114). Try the stir-fried establishment and is a complete change chicken ($HK210/$A35), a specialty lamb loin with leek and premium soy sauce of ambiance from the vibrancy upstairs. from the restaurant’s Nepalese chefs, ($HK188/$A31) paired with a fine Bordeaux The first overseas offshoot of three-Michelin Himalayan MOMOs (wholesome steamed red or a lush and peppery syrah. Dinner is starred Nihonryori RyuGin from Tokyo, it meat dumplings) ($HK139/$A23) and recommended for the full experience, but has already earned two Michelin stars just nasi goreng ($HK165/$A27). A new menu traditional dim sums at lunch are much two years after opening in HK in 2012. The also features sustainable seafood dishes commended. The restaurant also boasts chef de cuisine is Hideaki Sato, classically - a project in partnership with WWF HK. a comprehensive range of gourmet teas. trained in both French and Japanese There is a comprehensive wine list with Phone +852 2263 2270. cuisines. A trusted disciple of founding chef selections from $HK360/$A60 a bottle and Tosca, with stylish decor, high ceilings Seiji Yamamoto, chef Sato was tasked by-the-glass options. Sunday brunch is and an open kitchen makes a complete with leading the team at Tenku RyuGin. popular among locals and visitors. Climb contrast to next door’s Tin Lung Heen. Tenku RyuGin interprets traditional Kaiseki the Peak on the iconic peak tram, followed Chef Pino Lavarra has been at the helm cuisine in chef Yamamoto’s signature by an early evening stroll around Lugard of this Michelin-starred restaurant since creative style, overseen by chef Sato, and Rd (a favourite circuit offering some of the 2013. With 30 years of experience, chef the monthly menu reflects the attention best views of HK) to work up an appetite Pino brought to Tosca his southern Italian to balance of taste, texture, colour, and before heading to Cafe Deco. Phone +852 culinary flair gained from two-Michelin presentation (including the earthen or 2849 5111. starred Rossellini’s on the Amalfi Coast, lacquered ware) by using the freshest and which had garnered the Michelin stars highest quality seasonal ingredients flown for nine consecutive years. Chef Pino’s daily from Japan. No detail goes amiss at Above: Tin Lung Heen - Private Dining Room. 64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

w i n e w o r d s L Y N N H o r T o N W I N E M A K E r , C o A L P I T W I N E S sKye mUrtaGh WE CAN all appreciate the pressure a love of all things sensory. I didn’t end up in co-workers in the winery. They need to feel winemaker must feel during vintage, but the perfume industry, which I had always happy asking you for information or help add an incoming baby into the mix and wanted to do, so winemaking is another when they need it. you would imagine the gauge reaches a way of creating something that evokes With so many influences during your whole new level. Thankfully New Zealand’s emotions and memories in people. training, how does a winemaker develop Lynn Horton - who found her first baby After your winemaking studies their “own” style? arriving during her inaugural vintage at you worked in California, Austria, Over the years I have been lucky to work Coal Pit Wines in Central Otago - has a Martinborough and Central Otago. with very good winemakers. I have taken cool head as well as a knack for producing What were the biggest lessons you on board bits and pieces from all these a top drop. Horton joined the Coal Pit team learnt from those early experiences? people. You often encounter quite dogmatic in 2007, along with her husband Gary I learnt the most in the smaller wineries characters in the wine industry and I have Crabbe who’s the viticulturist there. In I worked in, no matter where it was in the always been conscious not to be this way case you were wondering, they managed world, because there you nearly always as I feel it blinds you. I try to keep an open to get all the fruit in the tank the day before worked in all areas of the winery. At bigger mind - every growing season is different their baby girl arrived! Horton grew up in wineries you can get stuck in one area and you will need to modify how you handle “Central” and loves the elevated aromatics or job. Along with dealing with different the fruit to get the best out of it. that occur in the area’s pinot noir and other equipment and wine, with every vintage varieties. Before taking on her post grad you also have the human factor such as How did you and your husband find your Diploma in Viticulture and Oenology at working with people from other cultures. way to Coal Pit? Lincoln University - she pursued studies This is always interesting and at times I graduated in 2000 and had vintage in microbiology, chemistry and the arts. hopped until then. Coming to Coal Pit challenging through language barriers and was the first head winemaker position for Where did your interest in pursuing a different cultural influences. I learnt that me. Gary and I found Rosie Dunphy, the winemaking career stem from? the dynamic of the team during vintage owner of Coal Pit, through word of mouth I discovered wine through friends while can greatly affect the overall vintage. I from mutual neighbours in the valley. Rosie I was at university. Wine appealed to my always try to foster good relationships with was quite brave in taking me on. Gary had September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 65

been well established as a viticulturist and planted the back block of the vineyard a few years earlier. I, however, was a bit more of a gamble! Rosie hired us because she wanted to build a winery onsite and have a strong viticultural and winemaking team together at Coal Pit. Ultimately this gave more control in the entire process. Tell us a little about the Coal Pit wines and your own winemaking philosophy? Coal Pit wines are a true expression of the Gibbston Valley sub region. Coal Pit pinot noir has a nose of herbs and parma violets. The mid palate has pure fruit of nose to the glass. The extremes of diurnal Mallaird from Domaine Mallaird. They are so Black Doris plum and layers of forest floor temperature, altitude, and schist loam- enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge and game elements are supported by fine based soils are some of the reasons for this. in such a positive way. Michel especially integrated tannins. We have recently been For such a small growing area there are taught me to have no regrets about what able to see the positive effect of vine age on distinct sub regions that lend very different you may have done in the past and to get complexity in the wines and greater power characteristics to the wines within them. on with the next vintage. to withstand challenging weather events This means there is something to suit wine during the season. The sauvignon blanc drinkers looking for different characteristics How do you challenge yourself as a has a nose of elderflower, and in hotter in their wines. winemaker? years guava and passionfruit. The mid My greatest challenge is to not be too palate has intense grapefruit and classic What are the differences between Coal harsh on the wine I produce! I am my gooseberry. The vineyard at Coal Pit has Pit’s markets around the world? biggest critic. Every season I will trial always expressed strong minerality in the Coal Pit wines are mostly known for our something new with the wine, again to sauvignon blanc which gives the palate pinot noir within New Zealand or overseas, keep my mind open and to keep learning greater length than what is typical in this especially Australia. Our rosé is produced through this. variety. My winemaking philosophy is quite almost exclusively for the Australian market, What about collecting wine? Is that simply to harness these characteristics as as it has been hugely successful there. I something you and Gary do? purely as possible. believe this is because it is made from pinot Sadly we are not large collectors of wine. noir and has a more lifted nose than other However we have favourite producers that How advantageous is it as a winemaker varietals that rosé is traditionally made of to have the winery facility located there. We sell most of our sauvignon in the we buy when we can. For chardonnay it is onsite? local market within NZ, with the exception Meursault Poruzot from Domaine Roulot We can have the fruit harvested and in of Canada. and Austrian riesling - a favourite producer the tank or press within half an hour. Having there is Emmerich Knoll in Wachau. We also the vineyard and winery so close is also How influenced are you as a winemaker have a random selection of Spanish whites a huge advantage for quality control as a by consumer trends? and drink them a lot over summer. winemaker. We sort the fruit in the vineyard As a team at Coal Pit we look at the How have your own wine tastes changed as we pick and I don’t believe in excessive feedback about them every year when over the years? sorting of fruit - the less you handle it the making stylistic decisions. This is really My tastes have not changed all that much better. Gary is vigilant through the year in only with the rosé and sauvignon blanc. from when I started drinking. I like drier wine the vineyard so I have found that luckily fruit Naturally, there is no point in producing styles and love oak. sorting is at a minimum. Aromatic whites styles of wine that very few people want Do you have any winemaking rituals? need to be processed as soon as possible to drink. As a winemaker I need to respect I don’t have rituals so much. I do find so we have an advantage there as well. what wine style the fruit is capable of making and to get the most out of it. myself talking to yeasts and ferments from What are the characteristics of Central time to time. I also have names for some Otago wines that you feel most resonate Who inspires you in the winemaking equipment that have somehow developed with consumers? game today? their own personalities like “Christine” our Central Otago wine is so alive in the Recently we had two winemakers visit press. We have had heated debates with glass and has such pure fruit expression us at Coal Pit - Jerome Faure-Brac from each other over the years, however, when it demands your attention as you put your Domaine Joseph Drouhin and Michel Christine goes silent it is never good. 66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

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WHAT’S IT WORTH? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 1996 $300 2002 $85  2004 $90 1960 $1,500 Bin 60A AUSTRALIAN 1997 $200 2003 $65 2005 $75 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 WINES 1998 $260 2004 $70 2006 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $490  1999 $260 2005 $65 2007 $85 1963 $1,100  2006 $400 2000 $270 2006 $70  2008 $70 1964 $1,100 BASS PHILLIP Hill of Grace Premium Pinot Noir 2001 $290 2007 $55 1980 $250 2009 $75 1965 $550  2008 $55 1966 $900 2002 $300 1990 $75 2003 $200 1981 $230 1967 $600 1991 $90 2004 $350 GIACoNdA 1982 $220 1968 $550 1992 $95 2005 $230 Chardonnay 1983 $220 1969 $550 Stonewell Shiraz 1993 $80 2006 $250 1990 $110 1984 $210 1970 $400 1990 $90 1994 $110 2007 Not Released 1991 $60 1985 $280 1971 $720 1991 $70 1995 $80 2008 Not Released 1992 $85 1986 $320 MoSS Wood 1972 $400 1992 $60 1996 $110 2009 Not Released 1993 $90 1987 $220 Cab Sauv 1973 $400 1993 $65 1997 $140 2010 $200 1994 $100 1988 $300 1990 $130 1974 $450  1994 $55 1998 $140 2011 Not Released 1995 $85 1989 $260 1991 $150 1975 $400 1995 $55 1999 $120 2012 $210 1996 $140 1990 $460 1992 $120 1976 $600 1996 $70 2000 $120 1997 $95 1991 $400 1993 $100 1977 $400 1997 $55 2001 $160 CLoNAKILLA 1998 $125 1992 $250 1994 $100 1978 $400 1998 $80 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 1999 $120 1993 $260 1995 $130 1979 $380 1999 $75 2003 $110 1990 $65 2000 $110 1994 $340 1996 $120 1980 $360 2000 $70 2004 $140 1993 $65 2001 $110 1995 $300 1997 $100 1981 $400 2001 $65 2005 $80 1994 $85 2002 $160 1996 $460 1998 $150 1982 $370 2002 $70 2007 $130 1995 $65 2004 $190 1997 $320 1999 $130 1983 $440 2003 $55 2008 $85  1996 $100 2005 $120 1998 $420 2000 $110 1984 $350 2004 $85 2009 $85 1997 $130 2006 $120 1999 $380 2001 $130  1985 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1998 $150 2007 $100 2001 $360 2002 $90  1986 $520 2006 $60 2011 $100 2002 $440 2007 $55 1999 $55 2008 $140 2003 $90  1987 $350 2000 $90 2009 Not Released 2004 $380 2004 $100  1988 $350 2008 $60 BINdI 2001 $130 2010 $130 2005 $370 2005 $100  1989 $360 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2002 $130 2006 $340 2006 $65 1990 $540 1997 $80 2003 $120  2007 $85  1991 $460 1998 $95 2004 $120  2008 $90 1992 $360 1999 Not Released 2005 $110 2009 $85 1993 $360 2000 $150 2006 $100 2010 Not Released 1994 $380 Basket Press 2001 $120 2007 $160  2011 $90 1995 $370 Shiraz 2002 $110 2008 $90 Meshach 1996 $500 1990 $150 2003 $85 2009 $110  1990 $100  Armagh Shiraz MouNT MARy 1997 $360 1991 $140 2004 $110 2010 $95 1991 $85 1990 $200 Quintet 1998 $580 1992 $95 2005 $140 2011 $75 1992 $80 1991 $180 1990 $150 1999 $400 1993 $75 2006 $100  1993 $70 1992 $120 1991 $120 2000 $420 1994 $90 2007 $120  1994 $90 1993 $110 1992 $110 2001 $370 1995 $90  2008 $120  1995 $70  1994 $130 1993 $95  2002 $450 1996 $160 2009 $90 1996 $90  1995 $130 1994 $110  2003 $400 1997 $95 2010 $95 1997 Not Released 1996 $180 1995 $100 2004 $460 1998 $190 2011 $85 1998 $110 1997 $150 1996 $120 2005 $420 1999 $110  1999 $90  1998 $230 2006 $510 Cabernet Merlot 2000 $70 1997 $120  2000 $90  BRoKENWood 1999 $95 1999 $130  1998 $160 2007 $420 2001 $95  Graveyard Shiraz 2000 $65 2001 $110 2000 $120 1999 $130 2008 $620 2002 $120  1990 $90 2001 $120 2002 $95 2001 $140 2000 $120 2003 $100 1991 $110  2002 $90 2003 $60  2002 $190  2001 $110 2004 $100 1992 Not Released 2003 $90 2004 $70 2004 $140 2002 $130  2005 $100 1993 $80 2004 $90 2005 $65 2005 $120 2003 $110 2006 $110  1994 $80 2005 $85 2006 $65 2006 $160 2004 $140  2007 $95  1995 $70 2006 $70 2007 Not Released 2007 $95 2005 $120 2008 $95 1996 $95 2007 $100  2008 $85  2006 $120  Bin 707 2009 $75 1997 $85 2008 $90 2007 $90  1990 $220 2010 $75 1998 $110 2009 $90 Greenock creek 2008 $95 1991 $220 1999 $90 2010 $80 Roennfeldt Rd 2009 Not Released 1992 $180 THREE RIVERS/ 2000 $110  Shiraz 2010 $85 1993 $180 Chris Ringland 2001 $80 1995 $280 1994 $200  Wines Shiraz 2002 $75 ELdERToN 1996 $260 1995 Not Released 1990 $520 2003 $80 Command Shiraz 1997 $160 Chardonnay 1996 $220 1991 $690 2004 $80 1990 $120 1998 $350 Art Series 1997 $190 1992 $600 2005 $85 1991 Not Released 1999 $180 1990 $60 1998 $260 1993 $700 2006 $110  1992 $100 2000 $220 1991 $60 1999 $200 1994 $650 2007 $90 1993 $65 2001 $240 1992 $70 Bin 95 Grange 2000 Not Released 1995 $450 2008 Not Released 1994 $80 2002 $300 1993 $65 1951 $46,000 2001 $190 1996 $830 2009 $85 1995 $75 2003 $200 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 2002 $180 1997 Not Released 1996 $95 2004 $210 1995 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 Not Released 1998 $850 1997 $70 2005 $230 1996 $65 1954 $10,000 2004 $200 1999 $600 CLARENdoN HILLS 1998 $95 1997 $90 1955 $3,800  2005 $200 Astralis Shiraz 1999 $70  2006 $260 1998 $70 1956 $14,000  2006 $180 2000 $450 1994 $200 2000 $65 1999 $75 1957 $12,000 2007 $160 2001 $800 1995 $200 2001 $65 2000 $75 1958 $4,100 2008 $190 2002 $800 2003 $500 2001 $80 1959 $2,000 2009 $180 2002 $75 2010 $280  2003 $80 68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM C e l l a r i n g Y o u r F i n e W i n e s i n P e r f e c t C o n d i t i o n s 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 E. Guigal La Turque 2005 $5,700 Hermitage Shiraz 2006 $2,100 1990 $800 1990 $145 2007 $1,800  1991 $480 1991 $130 2008 $3,000 1992 $270 1992 $80 1993 $240 1993 $90 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1994 $120 Cristal d’yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1995 $95 1990 $550 1990 $800 1996 $260 1996 $160 1993 $220 1991 $450 1997 $320 1997 $90 1994 $340 1993 $340 1998 $700 A new 1998 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 1999 $660 1999 $95  1996 $440 1995 $550 2000 $420 2000 $70 1997 $450  1996 $540 2001 $520 2001 $100 1999 $340 1997 $490 2002 $450 2002 $150 2000 $340 1998 $400 2003 $850 Australian 2003 $95 2002 $300 1999 $520 2004 Not Released 2004 $120 2004 $240  2000 $600 2005 $600 2005 $130 2001 $900 2006 $750 2006 $130 Chateau Mouton 2002 $500 blend. 2008 $100 Rothschild 2003 $600 Gaja Barbaresco 2009 $130 1990 $600 2004 $500 1990 $330 2010 $120 1991 $550  2005 $650  1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 Not Released DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, 1993 $700  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 domaine 1993 $210 yet refreshingly earthy new legal 1995 $520 de la Romanee 1994 $260 “blend” created by the former 1996 $600 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 Para Liqueur 1997 $280 1996 $300 partners of the respected South 1878 $2,000 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1997 $550 Australian firms of Donaldson Walsh 1991 $1,900 1879 $2,000  1999 $600 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1880 $1,000 2000 $1,150 1993 $2,200  1999 $260 and Fox Tucker. 1881 $1,000 2001 $450 1994 $1,600  2000 $310 1882 $1,000 2002 $480 1995 $2,500 2001 $250 Our bold new offering is built on a 1887 $1,000 2003 $600 1996 $2,700 2002 Not Released full-bodied foundation of vast general 1893 $1,000 2004 $550 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 1899 $1,000 2005 $1,200  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 commercial experience, yet overlaid 1901 $650 2006 $780 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released with distinctive specialist expertise 1908 $550 2008 Not Released 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 in a number of key industries and 1910 $450  2009 $2,000 2001 $2,000 1922 $350 2002 $2,800 Tenuta niche market sectors. 1925 $600 Chateau Latour 2003 $2,800 dell’ornellaia 1927 $290 1990 $1,250 2004 $2,500  ornellaia It’s a winning combination that 1930 $140  1991 $600 2005 $4,500 1991 $320 allows every client who opens a 1933 $130  1992 $350 2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1939 $80 1993 $440 2007 $1,200 1993 $125 “case” to get exactly what they 1944 $70 1994 $460 2008 $2,400 1994 $130 need. So whatever your business 1947 $55 1995 $750 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1996 $1,100 1996 $180 or legal objectives, don’t hesitate 1997 $460 domaine Armand 1997 $250 to contact us. IMPORTED 1998 $520 Rousseau 1998 $185 WINES 1999 $600 Chambertin 1999 $200 At DW Fox Tucker, every 2000 $1,600  Clos de Beze 2000 $140 client matters. 2001 $700 1990 $950 2001 $260 2002 $600  1991 $200 2002 $280 2003 $1,700  1992 $220 2003 $150 2004 $600 1993 $600 2004 $150 Moet et Chandon 2005 $1,300 1994 $500 2005 Not Released 2006 $170 Cuvee dom 2006 $1,100  1995 $560 2007 $220 Perignon 2007 $750  1996 $650 2008 $150 1980 $220 2008 $1,100 1997 $280 2009 $190 L14, 100 King William Street 1982 $230 1998 $400 Adelaide SA 5000 1983 $180 Chateau Petrus 1999 $800 Vega Sicilia unico 1985 $200 1990 $5,500 2000 $320 Gran Reserva p: +61 8 8124 1811 1988 $260 1991 Not Released 2001 $460  1990 $560 e: [email protected] 1990 $380 1992 $1,300 2002 $680 1991 $420 1992 $240 1993 $1,000 2003 $600 1994 $550 dwfoxtucker.com.au 1993 $260  1994 $2,800  2004 $440  1995 $420 1995 $220 1995 $1,900 2005 $950 1996 $360 1996 $280 1996 $2,400  2006 $600 1998 $420 COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE 1998 $260 1997 $1,000 2007 Not Released 1999 $420 DISPUTES | INSOLVENCY | TAX | IP 1999 $190 1998 $3,600 2009 $1,100 2000 $360 2000 $180 1999 $1,250 2010 $1,100 2002 $420 EMPLOYMENT | WORKERS COMPENSATION 2002 $200 2000 $6,000 2003 $294  SELF INSURANCE | PROPERTY 2003 $190 2001 $2,300 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 69

w i n e i n v e s t m e n t & c o l l e c t i n g buyer’s premium) were: a magnum of DRC La Tache 1999 ($10,718), 2006 DRC Romanee Conti ($10,718) and 2004 DRC Romanee Conti ($9088). O verall however, the preferred international region was Bordeaux (with Burgundy not too far behind). Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, 1er cru classe, Pauillac led the pack, with a Auction DAtes range of vintages consistently fetching in excess of $1200 per bottle, the best performer the 1996, selling for $1940. LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS Buyers also responded well to smaller September and more focused events, with a range of • 1-8: Finest & Rare Wine Auction “special” auctions performing strongly, • 3-10: Great Estates of Yarra Valley Auction including a South Australian Compilation Auction reports and a Large Formats release. • 3-10: $5 Reserve Auction Demand for magnums surged as well, • 8-15: Finest & Rare Wine Auction with strong interest and solid price • 10-17: Cellar Reload Value Auction results. An imperial of 2004 Henschke • 15-22: Finest & Rare Wine Auction LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS Hill of Grace sold for $11,650, equating • 17-24: $5 Reserve Auction (AUCTION MARKET REVIEW FOR to $1456 per 750mL bottle (more than • 22-29: Finest & Rare Wine Auction MAY and JUNE 2015) three times the average auction price • 24-Oct 1: Cellar Reload Value Auction The financial year concluded with of $466). A Penfolds Grange magnum • 24-Oct 1: Classification VI Auction an all-time record week of sales for set of 23 vintages, 1979-2001 inclusive, • 29-Oct 6: Finest & Rare Wine Auction Langton’s - the result confirming both fetched $25,630. October the health of the market and Langton’s For more information and to see all • 1-8: $5 Reserve Auction position as one of Australia’s leading results visit www.langtons.com.au. • 6-13: Finest & Rare Wine Auction auction houses. During May and June, • 8-15: Cellar Reload Value Auction Langton’s held more than 30 auctions ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS • 8-15: Pinot Palooza Auction and saw strong overall demand and (MAY FINE WINE SALE REPORT, by • 13-20: Finest & Rare Wine Auction clearance rates, highlighted by the GRAHAM WRIGHT) • 15-22: $5 Reserve Auction annual Classic Penfolds Auction, with What a difference age makes! Our May the long-time market leader continuing • 20-27: Finest & Rare Wine Auction premium auction came alight as some • 22-29: Cellar Reload Value Auction to dominate prices and interest. classic, rare and very old Australian Rare bottles of Penfolds Grange from and imported wines came up for sale. ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS the 1950s (then labelled “Hermitage”) From top flight Burgundies to some of September 8 (closes August 14) fetched the top prices and demand the best from Bordeaux and Australian October 6 (closes September 11) for Grange magnums also surged. Top classics that haven’t seen the light of November 4 (closes October 9) prices for the period (including buyer’s day for many, many a year caught buyer premium of 16.5 per cent) were for GRAYSONLINE attention. Daily wine auctions, starting from $9 Penfolds Grange, set of 60 vintages Standout sales included a rare 1965 per case, with a 30-day money back 1951-2010 inclusive, at $165,000; Lindemans Special Reserve Bin 3110 guarantee. 1951 Penfolds Bin 1 Grange Hermitage Burgundy going for a hammer price Fine wine auctions end Monday- ($46,600); 1953 Penfolds Bin 2 Grange of $843, an equally rare Chateau Cos Tuesday-Thursday each week. Hermitage ($23,300); 1954 Penfolds d’Estournel achieving a remarkable Port and spirit auctions end on Bin 12 Grange Hermitage ($14,913) and $1500 and a 1986 Domaine de la Wednesdays. 1956 Penfolds Bin 53 Grange Hermitage Romanee Conti Marey-Monge selling ($13,747). Strong demand continues for for $1200. However top dollar for the CRACKA WINES top vintages (such as 1986, 1990 and May auction was the privately bottled Live wine auctions each day. 1998) of Grange and other Penfolds Para Liqueurs from 1879 and 1880, stalwarts Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, STERLING WINE AUCTIONS which achieved a final hammer price of Auctions run every two weeks, back-to- Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz and St Henri $2400 each. back, finishing on Wednesday evening. Shiraz. In terms of bidding enthusiasm, our The results for imported wines were buyers were very keen on the Christies (All dates subject to change without notice). led by Domaine de la Romanee Conti bottling of a 1960 Seppelt Great Western (DRC) of Burgundy. Top prices (including Cabernet, as they pushed the final bid 70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015



w i n e i n v e s t m e n t & c o l l e c t i n g 22 per cent over the top end of the Bordeaux but also red burgundy. With positions were secured by Seppelt Para guides. A bottle of 1986 Chateau La the fortifieds, classic old-school Aussies Liqueur Ports. Along with the $2400 Lagune went 18 per cent above the top took the limelight in May. achieved for each of the 1879 and 1880, end and a 1965 Seppelt Seppeltsfield For the first time in a very long time, a 1910 achieved $1400. I was pleased to DP32 Rutherglen Vintage Port Shiraz Grange did not head up the Top 10 see a personal favourite round out the list went just under 25 per cent above the Hammer Prices, Australian Wine list. - with a half bottle of Campbells Isabella top of the guides. The aforementioned 1965 Lindemans Rutherglen Rare Tokay achieving $90. May also saw buyers interested in a Bin 3110 (level 4.5cm below bottom of Moving on to how keen Oddbins’ buyers wide range of Australian and imported capsule - bright colour for age) secured were on the night, there were two lots, table wines as well as fortifieds. Recent the top spot, with a 1971 Penfolds Bin 95 which shared top spot, both achieving vintages of Best’s Bin 0 and Bin 1 Shiraz, Grange Shiraz (level into neck) in second 22.5 per cent above the top end of the Burge Meshach from the 1990s through position fetching $690 and another ’71 price guides. These were the 1960 to 2006, Greenock Creek Apricot and Grange - this one RWC 1994 (minor Christies Seppelt Q72 Great Western Seven Acres along with Grosset Gaia cellar stained and nicked label) - in third Grampians Cabernet (VHS) and two from the 2000s all cleared well. Hardy position at $673. bottles of 2010 Bests Bin 1 Great Western Eileen and Thomas premiums from the In an even bigger surprise, a bottle Grampians Shiraz. With imported wines, 1990s also enjoyed good clearances of 1999 Clarendon Hills Astralis Shiraz along with a large offering of Jim Barry’s (minor cellar nicked label) headed the the ’86 Chateau La Lagune 3me Cru Haut flagship The Armagh. 2004 Parker First Top 10 Non-Penfold/Henschke Hammer Medoc (VHS) placed highest - fetching Growth, Torbreck Steading from the Prices list - with no less than four Jim 18.5 per cent above the top end of guides 1990s, Wendouree and Wynns cabernets Barry The Armaghs making the table, - followed by a half bottle of 1997 Faivley - also from the ’90s - also cleared above including three bottles of 2009 The Clos De La Marechale 1er Cru St Georges expectations. Auction heavyweights Armagh (boxed) in third position with a which went 11.1 per cent above and New from Henschke, like Keyneton Estate hammer price of $160. Zealand’s 2005 Felton Road Central Otago and Mount Edelstone, and Rockford, To the internationals, and very classical Pinot Noir (screw cap) which went 5.5 per including its Basket Press, Rifle Range Bordeaux was in our buyer’s sights in cent over. and Black Sparkling, all cleared well with May, with the previously mentioned Finally, with fortifieds and spirits. While strong bidding. Penfolds Grange is still 1928 Chateau Cos d’Estournel 2me the standout was the aforementioned in short supply but what we did have, Cru St Estephe (VVHS) - in exceptional 1965 Seppelt DP32 Port, a bottle of 1945 including imperfect Grange, cleared well condition for its age - leading the Top Penfolds Grandfather Tawny Port also along with Bins 28, 389, 407, 60A, 707, 10 Hammer Prices, Imported Wine list. sparked keen bidding going 11.5 per cent 90A and Grandfather 1945 port. The Top 10 Hammer Prices, Fortified above the top end of the guides. Finally, the influx of some fascinating Wine and Spirits list was an absolute For more information visit www.oddbins. imported wines, especially from France, marvel of Australian and European com.au (all prices quoted are exclusive of saw strong bidding, especially on fortified winemaking. The top three buyer’s premium). Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Looking for Wine? Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Oddbins Wine Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Auctions - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 With over 30 years experience... Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 It’s What we do Best! Email: [email protected] 72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

w i n e i n v e s t m e n t & c o l l e c t i n g STERLING WINE AUCTIONS The best buys from recent auctions skew between Grange “significant” (JUNE 2015 MARKET REPORT, by include 2008 Grant Burge Meshach production (drawn from multi-regions) LYNTON BARBER) magnums selling around the $145 and Hill of Grace’s tiny, limited production As we wait, with baited breath, for the hammer fall. They come in a very smart from a single antique vineyard? release of the 2011 Penfolds Grange, wooden three pack. Premium wine bling has always been the super-premium wine market is Lots of Moss Wood back vintages a factor with top champagne. Gorgeous finding its way through opportunities graced the catalogues over the past packaging adds extra dazzle to your and challenges. months. The 1992 cabernet proved favourite fizz and I suppose if you are The big question is this: how will the Moss Wood has made it into the top paying $500+ for a bottle you want a wine commentators react to Penfolds shelf and is there to stay, with most fabulous package. Well the clever folks Grange from the “horror” 2011 vintage, bottles selling for over $130. Not bad at Penfolds are putting all their premium particularly on the back of the super against a release price of about $30. wines, no longer just Grange, in wood six fabulous 2010 Grange that just about Some classics are never out of the packs - and that’s nothing! Do yourself wore out the list of superlatives? limelight. The 1998 Wynns John Riddoch a favour and find a bottle of the amazing Interestingly there will be no 2011 was fought over by more than 12 bidders Bin 170 Kalimna Block 3C Shiraz. The Henschke Hill of Grace, Torbreck Run until the hammer price settled at $136. wine itself, at $1500 a bottle is another Rig/The Laird, Penfolds Bin 707 and While on the “cult” side, a quantity of story, but check out the “bespoke” box likely no premiums like Octavius from the 2006 Rusden Black Guts, sporting an designed by famous English craftsman Yalumba. impressive RP97, sold for a skinny $60. David Linley. One of the most amazing Sterling Wine Auctions continues For the lover of DRC, Domaine I have seen. It compares to the Dom to focus on super premiums and the Romanee Conti, a 1993 La Tache at Perignon Oenotheque wooden “jewel recent highlight was an imperial of $1501 likely represented a sensible boxes”. the impossibly fabulous 2009 Chateau acquisition. It sure feels good when My favourites from the last sale were Lafite, which sold for a cool $18,500. you carry DRC around knowing just two special bottles of champagne - Not so much money when you see the how many folks would like to be in your the 1996 Dom Perignon Rose which drinking window will likely outlast the shoes. Carry it all you like - it doesn’t earned RP97. For a hammer fall or $450 buyer! It wasn’t all Grange and Bordeaux matter unless you have a cork screw in you would have to share with special at Sterling in June. The most hotly the other hand! people. The cute award went to another contested bottle was the 1992 Crawford The competition between Penfolds champagne - a half of recent release River Cabernet Sauvignon, with 17 Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace Krug. It was the perfect scale down of bidders chasing it up to a very modest is always a feature of Sterling Wine the real thing. $24. Of equal interest and even better Auctions. Prices for the “hot” vintages Check out some of the Sterling Wine value was the 1991 Taltarni Reserve de are pretty close. My guess is that Hill Auctions website features. There are Pyrenees which 14 discerning bidders of Grace is in greater demand and plenty there that no one else can deliver. tickled up to $17. selling faster. Obvious? Maybe it’s the I love the catalogue search function September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 73

w i n e i n v e s t m e n t & c o l l e c t i n g that allows you to sort by vintage, price slew of new customers to Grays’ already Chinese market for a handsome profit. points and region. For more information sizeable data base and resulted in a high Another bargain was the bottle of 1964 visit: www.sterlingwine.com.au. All number of distinctive visitors to our site. Macallan Special Selection Single Malt prices quoted are hammer fall - before There have been some absolute Whisky which sold at a fraction of the BP. bargains among these auctions, current retail price. specifically from the Wine Investments So every now and then there will be GRAYSONLINE Services liquidation. Some examples a wine that the canny and astute buyer ( J U N E 2 015 R EP O R T, by G R EG include 20 01 and ’02 K ilikanoon can get relatively cheaply. This could FITZSIMMONS) Covenant Shiraz, 1998 Mount Langi be a sign that the top end of the market T h r o u g h o u t J u n e w e s a w a n Ghiran Langi Cabernet Merlot, 2002 has softened significantly over the past extraordinary amount of volume come Glaetzer Nefertari Shiraz, 2001 Two few months - despite the record low through our warehouse in both the fine Hands Angels’ Share Shiraz and 1999 interest rates - or that I pushed volume wine and bulk sections. Charles Cimicky Signature Shiraz. All a little too hard in the lead up to the end The drive for this was a combination of these wines sold at under $25, a fraction of the financial year. On the flip side of vendors looking to liquidate their assets of what they were last traded at and this is the high prices we achieve for our towards the end of financial year and three several of these wines are still for sale vendors, for example, 2001 Clarendon large liquidation and insurance claims. in other retail outlets at $60 plus. Hills Astralis Shiraz at over $260 per These claims included over $2 million of From time to time I take a position and bottle or 2000 Pol Roger Sir Winston wine from Wine Investments Services, buy cellars outright, and towards the end Churchill Champagne at $420. Penfolds as well as Smashing Bottles - a small of the financial year I sold part of one of Grange continues to amaze me with southern Queensland distributor - and a these cellars. To say there were some the prices that are achieved. Recently a small, highly valuable insurance sale. utter bargain-basement prices is an 1980 reached an astounding $560 and Despite this increase in volume, prices understatement. This cellar included an a 1967, in respectable condition, sold held relatively firm on the more desirable exceptional and very rare 2006 Chateau for $1200 - both well above the market and sought after wines, as I have Lafite Rothschild double magnum, which expectations. reported in previous articles. This was sold for a third of what is the current We recently received a full container of partly due to the increase in marketing market price. I spoke with the buyer some of Australia’s finest wines back out activity via national press which drew a who had already sold it again into the of Asia. All these wines have been stored 74 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

w i n e i n v e s t m e n t & c o l l e c t i n g in immaculate conditions and exported restaurants and individuals. We take most popular wine styles in recent in refrigeration, to which I awarded the care of everything, from valuation and months. Old habits apparently die hard. five-star provenance guarantee. I had the selling, to shipping and prompt weekly Saying that, it’s also refreshing to see pleasure of tasting many of these classic payments. We also guarantee vendor the popularity of grenache increasing Australian wines and I believe they are satisfaction, so just contact the team to in recent times, hopefully the start within the perfect drinking window with discuss your needs. of a grenache boom time. In other maximum imbibing enjoyment. They For great wines and prices go to trends, we’ve seen merlot struggling include 2004, ’06 and ’08 Grant Burge www.GraysWine.com.au “worth every for traction in our auctions lately, Meshach Shiraz, 2004-2008 Mount Mary drop”. Prices listed don’t include buyer’s perhaps hinting at how poorly this Quintet, 2008 Cullen Diana Madeline premium. grape has been handled over the years. Cabernet Merlot and 2003 Katnook Now is probably a good time to mention Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon. CRACKA WINES the Cracka Deals app. Now updated, With the volumes we received, all of (MAY/JUNE 2015 REPORT, by ANDREW it serves as a handy first look at the these wines are available at auction GRAHAM) upcoming bargains in Cracka Deals, a throughout the coming months. As ever, the end of the financial year is week before they get featured. You can G r ay sW in e.c o m . au is o u r n ew a manic time in the world of wine, with download the Cracka Deals app from the dedicated, stand alone wine website. an absolute cavalcade of new releases App store now (IOS only). Cracka Wines The website has increased functionality, hitting the shelves (or the Cracka conducts live unreserved wine auctions allowing us to market and sell brands warehouse) all at once. Combine that every day with more than 4000 wines more effectively. It includes personalised with a move into new offices and you currently available for auction or to buy video content, a host of update articles have a recipe for a manic few months! On now. For more information, visit www. and wine matching advice. We continue the wine side, it is not surprising to see crackawines.com.au or email. All quoted to be Australia’s largest independent the continued upswing in the popularity prices are per bottle with no buyer’s wine auction house selling more than of premium chardonnay, a nod to the premium applicable. 2000 cases of wine per day and reaching appeal of good quality “big” chardonnay. 300,000+ people every month. We turn If you then include full-bodied Barossa your liquid assets into cash. We offer shiraz and Kiwi sauvignon blanc in a comprehensive service for wineries, the mix, you’re covering the three WINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUE MOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARD FOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORES Quality wines at wholesale prices with all auctions starting from just $9 per case. With a 30 day money back guarantee and speedy delivery, what’s not to love about wine at GraysOnline? Visit www.graysonline.com and find out why our customers are giving us five stars! September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 75

510 TASTED 375 AWARDED M A I N F R E I G H T WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S Y R A H & S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E X An excellent tasting of a big line-up of straight varietal and blended The Wine Society South Coast Premium Selection McLaren Vale Shiraz shiraz and syrah wines. Winemakers should be commended on Aramis Vineyards 2013 HHH making this variety their own. The trick is to mold the wine into Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Nicely integrated aromas Funky savoury aromas and well-structured its appropriate place in the market. At the lower price bracket this and a concentrated chocolate/mocha palate. means youthful freshness and varietal vibrancy, while at the upper amalgam of sweet At its peak. $14.95 varietal fruit and oak levels it means secondary complexity and length. flavours with plenty of Blackstone Paddock tannins. $14.99 The Player Barossa Valley Shiraz Paringa South VALUE 2013 HHH BEST Australia Shiraz BUYS Toasty mocha oak- 2013 HHH driven style with some SHIRAZ & Concha y Toro A mellow nose of oak attractive red fruits BLENDS Casillero del diablo and fruit and sweet underneath. 5+ Reserva Chile Shiraz mid-weight palate with a $14.99 UNDER $15 2013 HHHH drying finish. $10 A well-made bright and 19 TASTED generous wine with Trentham Estate SHIRAZ & 10 AWARDED nice use of oak that’s River Retreat Murray BLENDS well-integrated with the darling Shiraz stonefruit characters. 2014 $15-$20 Some reasonable Pleasant herbal note. 2013 HHH wines here, especially 3-5 $14 A balanced commercial 8 TASTED style with fresh fruit, in the over $10s where some residual sugar, 6 AWARDED the better wines are Sanguine Estate sweet oak and soft Kindred Heathcote not smothered in Shiraz 2013 HHHH tannins. $10 Small solid flight oak. “Less is more Great dark brooding Stonemason showing youthful at this price point,” everyday drink that Currency Creek concentration. Well- over delivers on quality. said one judge. “Nice Good depth of sweet Shiraz 2013 HHH made and worth the Developing savoury to see well-balanced fruit, drying tannins and notes with lots of oak extra few dollars. primary fruit without plenty of oak maturation. sitting on top of sweet Penfolds Koonunga cloying sweetness to $14.95 fruit with balancing acid. Hill Shiraz compensate for lack of Vin Vale by BEST 3-5 $12 2014 HHHH Crimson purple wine BUYS fruit.” Shingleback VALUE La Vieille Ferme with spicy candied McLaren Vale Shiraz Recolte Rouge fruit aromas and bright 2013 HHH1/2 Shiraz Blend summer pudding-like Slight spicy edge to the 2013 HHH pure fruit flavour profile. soft fruity nose and a Nice lifted fruit bouquet “Yum,” said one judge. lightweight palate with with dry red herbal-like $15 well-retained dark fruit flavours. Good food and mocha oak flavours. wine. 3-5 $14 $14.95 judges - day 1 Alex Trescowthick Dave Matthews Kate Giles Winemaker for Regional Chief Winemaker Director, Claritas Nepenthe Wines. for Lindemans Wines Marketing and Sales Associate Judge at in Karadoc (Victoria). & Marketing Wine Adelaide Hills wine Previously winemaker with Consultant. Has show and previously Penfolds and Rosemount. vintaged in Italy and Rutherglen. Judge at Cowra, Adelaide judged at Tall Timbers Has vintages in and Canberra wine shows wine show in Western Napa, Jura and and last year at the Los Australia. Rheinhessen. Angeles wine show. 76 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Wise Wine Sea Mr. Riggs The Truant Mt. Monster BEST Richard Hamilton SHIRAZ 2012 urchin Margaret McLaren Vale Shiraz Limestone VALUE McLaren Vale Shiraz BUYS River Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 Coast Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 $15-$20 2014 HHHH A pungent bouquet with 2013 HHH1/2 A full-bodied classic with 18 TASTED Soft and very dense tarry characters. Dense, meaty and plenty of robust fruit, 9 AWARDED flavoursome style with Excellent fruit and tannin developing nose. what one judge called nice depth of sweet balance on the velvety Generous upfront fruit “boisterous oak” and dark plum-like fruit well smooth palate with its palate with savoury some very firm tannins. A mixed group of wines integrated with the oak. long lingering aftertaste. notes and chalky $19.95 with some of them Needs some more time. 5+ $17 tannins. Drink now. coming to the end of 3-5 $19.50 $16.95 Blackstone Paddock Z Wine Rustica Barossa Valley their lives! “Many of Shoofly South Barossa Valley Lost Buoy The Edge Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 these were made for Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Spirited aromas of early drinking and we 2014 HHH1/2 Bright lifted spicy fruit 2013 HHH1/2 sweet nectarines, Nicely structured bright nose with attractive Interesting spicy fruit which is echoed on the see the result here,” said crimson wine offering licorice notes and an fragrances and a big seamlessly balanced one judge. “However a good mouthful of soft elegant cassis/plum flavoursome palate with palate. Just needs time. those that were sweet plump fruit and palate with appropriate the sweet fruit well 5+ $19.99 slightly drying tannins. use of the oak. matched by the oak. recommended showed $15 3-5 $15 $18 Pure Vision good structure and offer Adelaide Plains great drinking now.” Taltarni T-Series Satyr by Sileni Shiraz 2013 HHH Pyrenees Shiraz Estate Hawke’s Bay A slight meatiness to Michelton The Bend 2014 HHH1/2 Syrah 2013 HHH1/2 the nose with dark plum Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Tight and bright with Cool climate Rhone-like palate and good level of Plumy cola-like aromas nice red cherry fruit style of shiraz with chocolaty oak in support. and very long tight background and lots of bright peppery $15 tannic palate with good tannin structure elements. A very pretty flavours of plums and providing plenty of wine. $18.99 3 oceans The cherries. Needs more palate length. $17 Rivers Red Classic time. $15 Brown Brothers Frankland River Sileni Cellars 18 Eighty Nine Shiraz 2013 HHH Patritti old Gate Selection Hawke’s Heathcote Shiraz Nose has bright aromatic McLaren Vale Shiraz Bay Syrah 2013 HHH1/2 lift and sweet/savoury 2012 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 At its peak. Sweet/ notes with big solid red Funky, earthy and A different style - savoury bouquet and flavours. $16 savoury, fault-free, easy quite Rhone-like with dark earthy fruit flavours drinking wine showing its peppery spicy on a palate that shows 3 oceans The length and complexity. characters, savoury fruit good structure and Rivers Red Classic Plenty of years in it yet. and powerful oak. balance. $19 Margaret River 5+ $18 $17.95 Shiraz 2013 HHH Dense sweet plum Penfolds Thomas Rosemount Estate aromas and simple fruit Hyland Shiraz diamond Label flavours with soft supple 2012 HHH1/2 BEST Shiraz 2014 HHH Shingleback VALUE oak. A crowd pleaser. A pretty floral bouquet Vibrant youthful style Haycutters BUYS $16 and a spicy oak intensity with fresh lifted primary McLaren Vale Shiraz to the palate with plenty fruit characters and 2013 HHHH Fox Creek Red Baron of length and good plenty of sweet fruit. Dark dense aromas; McLaren Vale Shiraz structure. $19 $15.99 some meatiness 2013 HHH developing with similar Dark plum bouquet and Taltarni T-Series SHIRAZ 2013 characters echoed on sweet leathery fruit Pyrenees Shiraz the palate. Big firm flavours with balancing $15-$20 tannic finish. $16.95 tannins. 5+ 2012 HHH Oak-driven style but 27 TASTED Reillys Wines BEST $17.50 some decent shiraz fruit 16 AWARDED Clare Valley VALUE Fifth Estate underneath with grippy BUYS tannic structure. $17 Shiraz 2013 HHHH Geographe Shiraz There was more fruit Mellow bouquet of 2013 HHH davey Brothers concentration and oak well-integrated sweet An elegant and poised McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit and nutty oak. Ripe mid-weight commercial balance here across sweet black fruit flavours style with honest 2012 HHH Intense red wine. the board. Some wines evolving to fig-like flavours and classy oak. Slightly earthy aromas. were advanced, whilst characters. $19 Haselgrove First Cut $18.99 Well-rounded sweet others were still fresh McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit palate, developing nicely. $17.95 and lively. Some great 2013 HHH1/2 bargains here that could Beautifully integrated wine; sweet complexity become your ‘house’ of fruit, oak and furry wine! tannins. “A real crowd pleaser,” said one judge. 3-5 $19 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 77

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X SHIRAZ & SHIRAZ & BLENDS BLENDS 2011 & OLDER 2013 $20-$25 $15-$20 32 TASTED 5 TASTED 21 AWARDED 0 AWARDED A group of concentrated, powerful wines with lots Disappointing, but expected. At this price of tannin. “At this price bracket wines are made point the consumer to be consumed early, wants a lot!” said one not cellared. judge. “After 2011 the winemakers’ trend was SHIRAZ & to go for bigger styles.” BLENDS Many of these will age very well. 2014 $20-$25 4 TASTED Mother of Pearl Shingleback Jack Estate Wrattonbully Shiraz 2 AWARDED davey Estate Coonawarra 2012 HHH Reserve McLaren Wrattonbully Shiraz Nice nose; all plums A couple of nice Vale Shiraz 2013 HHHH and menthol. Lively acid examples showing purity 2013 HHHH1/2 Almost black, intensely palate with slight meaty A huge powerful shiraz; long savoury shiraz. fruit characters. $19 of fruit not overtaken by very dark, very primary Delicate cherry and plum the oak. ripe stewed plum fruit aromas and a fruit cake Fifth Estate characters layered with palate. Fine tannins and Geographe Shiraz Paxton MV black olive elements creamy oak. $22 2012 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz and with plenty of Elegant and composed 2014 HHH1/2 grippy mouthcoating Fox Creek JSM with an ‘honest’ flavour Nice plum and clove-like tannins. Needs time. James Stanley profile and plenty of oak. bouquet and young 5+ $23.50 Malpas McLaren $18.99 elegant palate with Vale Shiraz Cabernet upfront fruit and grippy Jip Jip Rocks Sauvignon Cabernet Shanahans BEST tannins. Needs time. Padthaway Shiraz Franc 2013 HHHH Wines The old VALUE 5+ $20 2013 HHHH A real Aussie blend. BUYS dog Barossa Rose petal bouquet Deep purple hues, slight Valley Shiraz Saltram 1859 Shiraz with some spiciness leathery aromas with 2012 HHH 2014 HHH and great power, subtle spicy notes. Long Toasty caramel nose Perfumed spicy/floral concentration and and flavoursome fruit/ with lashings of oak aromas and pure Bellevue Estate weight of fruit with oak palate. $23 on the spicy stonefruit primary fruit flavours McLaren Vale Shiraz subtle oak support and palate. $19.95 with subtle oak. Time! 2013 HHHH1/2 fine acid. $20.95 Wolf Blass original BEST 5+ $22.99 A big, dark, generous McLaren Vale Shiraz VALUE Shanahans BUYS and well-crafted wine. Bremerton Selkirk 2013 HHHH Wines The Perfect Dense ruby hues, sweet Langhorne Creek Good concentration of Storm McLaren Vale fruit aromas with slightly Shiraz 2013 HHHH plum fruit and sweet oak Shiraz 2012 HHH leafy notes and good A pretty and well- layered with spices and Subtle aromas and rich red fruit and licorice structured crowd pleaser floral notes. Some pretty grippy tannic palate with flavour profile. $20 that has nice delicate tannins. “A very polished bright fruit and well- fruit characters, a wine.” $24 handled oak. $19.95 perfumed lift and some very stylish oak. $22 judges - day 2 Andy La Nauze Greg Fitzsimmons Nick Haselgrove Winemaker at Yalumba Private Cellar-Fine Wine Winestate’s 2010 Australian Winery. Previously Manager, Graysonline. Former Winemaker of the Year. winemaker at Norfolk retailer at Theo’s Liquor, then Winemaker/Director of Rise, Robe and St Tucker Seabrook, Key Account Adelaide Winemakers. Hallett, Barossa Valley. Management at Taylors Former chief winemaker at Has vintaged in Alsace Wines and State Manager Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying and completed the of Craggy Range NSW. Greg winemaker’ from 1993-95. AWRI (Australian Wine has studied wine marketing Judge at Hobart for 3 years Research Institute) and hospitality management. and associate judge at wine assessment Currently completing the Adelaide in 1996-97. course. WSET diploma. 78 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g BEST Schild Estate VALUE Michelton Heathcote SHIRAZ & SHIRAZ & Wolf Blass Gold Barossa Valley BUYS Shiraz 2013 HHH Label Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Fragrant but powerful BLENDS BLENDS 2013 HHHHH Slight toffee characters style intense with dark 2012 & OLDER 2015 & 2014 A complexity of pure to the savoury nose fruit, spices and licorice fruit, vanilla oak and and nicely layered spicy elements. Needs time. $20-$25 $25-$30 savoury spices on the fruit palate with hints of 5+ $22 lifted nose leading to violets. $20 17 TASTED 7 TASTED a velvety palate with 5 AWARDED 3 AWARDED Christmas pudding-like Blue Pyrenees flavour profile and good Pyrenees Shiraz One standout amongst An upfront group of length of ripe even 2013 HHH1/2 tannins. 5+ $27.50 Dark cocoa-like a few great offerings wines with lots of characters on the nose – drink now whilst the vibrancy - but will they Charles Cimicky and an aggressively going’s good! age? “Those moving The Autograph tannic palate with from lighter reds or Barossa Valley powerful black fruit Willunga 100 Shiraz 2013 HHHHH flavours. Time. McLaren Vale Shiraz whites looking for A monumental Aussie 5+ $24 2012 HHHH something more will lap style of shiraz with Powerful beefy bouquet up these ‘fruit bombs’,” everything happening. 3 Rings Barossa with nice fruit expression Dense colour, complex BEST Valley Shiraz VALUE and very rich ripe palate suggested one judge. briary/licorice bouquet BUYS 2013 HHH with raspberry jam-like and a massive palate Silky sweet wine with fruit and heaps of sweet Gumpara Victor’s with tons of fruit, good intensity of spicy oak. $23 old Vine Barossa nice acid and slippery plum fruit and a fine acid Valley Shiraz 2014 tannins. 5+ $28 spine. $20 Koonara Angel’s HHH1/2 Peak Coonawarra Soft easy drinking style GMH by Geoff BEST Shiraz 2012 HHH - nicely structured with Hardy South VALUE Smells of figs with a good concentration of BUYS Australia Shiraz barnyardy edge. Loads dark juicy cherry fruit BEST 2013 HHH Totino Estate VALUE of oak on the palate but characters. 3-5 $25 Some herbal notes to Adelaide Hills BUYS it works. $20 the nose with dark fruit Shiraz 2013 HHH Kalleske Zeitgeist in the background and More spicy than fruity. Morgan Simpson Barossa Valley similar palate. $20 Meaty richness in the Basket Press Shiraz 2015 HHH background and some McLaren Vale Shiraz A lovely purple, fruit- Ingoldby Shiraz bitter chocolate notes. 2012 HHH driven wine with bright 2013 HHH $20 Soft, approachable juicy flavours and Soft easy drinking with quaffer with nice upfront tannins kept nicely in lovely persistence of Mr. Riggs The Gaffer spicy plum/cherry fruit check. $26 coffee-like characters and McLaren Vale Shiraz characters. $22 fragrant fruit. $20 2013 HHH Whistler Albert Big hit of deep dark fruit Heinrich Barossa BEST Windance Margaret Montara Jimmy VALUE aromas layered with River Shiraz Valley Shiraz BUYS Black Grampians meaty notes. Rich tannic 2012 HHH 2014 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHH palate; quite savoury. $22 Tarry secondary Slight confectionery Slightly restrained charry characters developing on characters to the nose nose and oaky palate Pirathon Barossa the nose and decent spicy and dark fruit flavours with simple plum fruit Valley Shiraz flavours evolving. $22 with camphor-like characters. $20 2013 HHH touches. $25 Barley Stacks The Very varietal nose and Metala Single Peninsulas Shiraz Wicks Estate VALUE a monster of a palate Vineyard Shiraz SHIRAZ & 2013 HHHHH BEST Adelaide Hills BUYS offering more than Cabernet Sauvignon A big rich style of wine Shiraz 2013 HHH a huge mouthful of 2012 HHH BLENDS showing excellent Delicate nose and tight flavour. $23 Slightly musty dark 2013 $25-$30 cellaring potential. It’s dark plum palate with berry aromas and nicely dense and crimson chunky tannins. Needs Willunga 100 evolving dark fruit 32 TASTED with a chocolaty nose time. 5+ $20 McLaren Vale Shiraz flavours with leathery 28 AWARDED showing hints of spice Viognier 2013 HHH notes. $22.99 and some great tannins Cockfighters Ghost A nice sound simple on the silky smooth McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit-driven style with a “Now we are talking,” palate. 5+ $29.50 2013 HHH perfumed lift and fine said the judges. A very Pungent fruit bouquet drying tannins. $23 strong class with a solid and a sound, well- balanced, oak/dark fruit Sanguine Estate depth of flavour across palate. 5+ $22 Progeny Heathcote the regions with a Shiraz 2013 HHH certain sameness across Tight, bright pure shiraz. Elegant but big with the board which is not a persistent flavours and bad thing in an excellent intense tannins. $24.95 line-up. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 79

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Rosemount Sidewood Estate Rusty Mutt Pepperjack Shiraz She oak Hill Estate MV Adelaide Hills Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Aurelio’s Heathcote Collection Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH Shiraz 2013 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Stalky notes to the “A nice package,” noted Aromas of spicy Oak prominent at the Dense crimson wine bright blackberry one judge. Forest mulberry fruit and a moment with lots of smelling of plums and bouquet. Well-tempered floor complexity to the full-bodied and layers of fruit and big prunes. A big hit of palate. Nice weight of nose and layers of fruit flavoursome palate with tannins. Needs time. bright fruit on the palate red fruits, firm tannins flavours with chocolaty plenty of chewy tannins. 3-5 $25 with well-integrated and good acid length. tannins. $27.50 A good all-rounder. oak and finely knitted 3-5 $25 3-5 $29.99 Zonte’s Footstep tannins. Should cellar Wolf Blass Gold Chocolate Factory well. 3-5 $25 Tenafeate Creek Label Adelaide Hills Thorn-Clarke McLaren Vale Shiraz Basket Press one Shiraz 2013 HHHH Shotfire Barossa 2013 HHH Zonte’s Footstep Tree Hill Shiraz Mint and mulberries on Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Maturing nicely with Lake doctor 2013 HHHH the nose with complex Smells like a fresh spicy blue fruit and Langhorne Nice, honest, medium- malty oak and lots of blueberry cheese cake! fleshy flavoursome Creek Shiraz bodied wine not forced fleshy dark fruits on Great appeal as a drink palate. Nice quaffer. $25 2013 HHHH1/2 or tricked up. Light the lovely soft palate. now style of wine with A very together wine menthol notes to the Drinking well now. $27.50 firm drying tannins. $25 3 oceans The that needs plenty spicy fruit nose. Full and Estates Frankland of time. Red fruit fleshy in the mouth. $25 Wood Block Wines McGuigan Shortlist River Margaret River fragrances lift off the Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 HHH nose with some green Robert oatley Coonawarra Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Spicy and chocolaty on notes and layers of Four in Hand 2013 HHHH Lovely young, deep the nose with a firm cherry-like flavours with Barossa Valley A big oaky style. Cedar crimson, fruit-driven tannic palate and good fine drying tannins. $25 Shiraz 2013 HHHH dominates the nose; wine. Tannins quite fruit weight. $26 Tight and reserved and hints of menthol. Drying prominent at the Pepperjack Shiraz in need of cellaring. tannic palate, nice moment but will Sileni Estate 2013 HHHH1/2 Nice blackberry fruit, fleshy mouthfeel. Will settle with time. Selection The Peak Mulberries and violets firm punchy tannins, soften with time. 3-5 $28.99 Hawke’s Bay Syrah on the nose with balancing oak and very 3-5 $27.50 2013 HHH peppery spicy nuances fresh acidity. $26.99 K1 by Geoff Hardy A spice box of a nose with a very pretty and Patritti Lot Three Middle Hill and a weighty black fruit well-balanced palate Baileys of McLaren Vale Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz palate with peppery loaded with black Glenrowan organic 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH notes. 3-5 $27.95 fruit flavours nicely Shiraz 2013 HHHH Aromatic cherry nose Nice fresh drink now integrated with the Brooding briary bouquet with a peppery hit and style. Spicy blueberry Witches Falls oak. 5+ $29.99 with a hint on Bonox. Full well-balanced richness bouquet and light lively Granite Belt Shiraz fresh fruit flavours across and power of fruit and fruit palate. $25 2013 HHH Claymore dark the length of the palate oak on the long lingering A robust oak-driven Side of the Moon with peppery characters. palate. $28 Montara Gold Rush style with nice black Clare Valley Shiraz 5+ $27 Grampians Shiraz fruit characters 2013 HHHH Tinpot Hut 2013 HHH underneath. $28 A good Aussie shiraz, Mr. Riggs Piebald Hawke’s Bay Syrah Spicy leathery aromas appealing now but will McLaren Vale Syrah 2013 HHHH with a hint of licorice. be excellent in five years. 2013 HHHH A cool climate style Good balanced palate Lots of blue fruits and Deep crimson wine with offering a different with crisp finish. supple tannins with nice spicy peppery aromas drinking experience. 3-5 $25 acidity. 5+ $25 lifting off the savoury Minty raspberry aromas nose. Great fruit weight and prominent acid Ross Hill Benny & on the long and complex palate. Good fruit Taylor orange Shiraz palate. $27 sweetness. $28 NZ 2013 HHH Very attractive, aromatic, medium-bodied drink now style that’s sweetly fruited. $25 judges - day 3 Craig Viney Shane Harris Greg Fitzsimmons Winemaker, Murray Winemaker for Wines by Private Cellar-Fine Wine Street Vineyards since Geoff Hardy including, Manager, Graysonline. Former 2007 in the Barossa Pertaringa Wines, K1 and retailer at Theo’s Liquor, then Valley. Previously Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Tucker Seabrook, Key Account worked at Two Hands Wines. Has also completed Management at Taylors Wines Winery. Vintaged vintages in Queensland and and State Manager of Craggy overseas at Walla Victoria. Completed the Range NSW. Greg has studied Walla, Washington AWRI advanced sensory wine marketing and hospitality with L’Ecole No. 41 course and has associate management. Currently Winery. judged at McLaren Vale completing the WSET diploma. wine show. 80 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g SHIRAZ & Montara Gold Rush Swire Valley BLENDS Grampians Shiraz Barossa Valley 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHH 2012 & OLDER A good wine. Spicy Ageing well and offering peppery nose shows lots of drinking pleasure $25-$30 some cooler menthol now! Beginning to 32 TASTED notes. Lots of violet- show nice licorice, prune and tar developed like characters running 28 AWARDED through the length of characters. $25 the blue fruit palate. Very The judges found this to fine tannins. $25 Peter Lehmann be another solid class Wolf Blass Gold Futures Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 of excellent consistent Label Adelaide Lovely fruit weight wines offering drinking Hills Shiraz seamlessly balanced pleasure. These are 2012 HHHH1/2 with spicy oak and laced with supple tannins. A bright crimson ready to drink now mid-weight wine with Acid a tad prominent for rather than being wines seamless integration of now. $26 for cellaring. dark fruit, Ribena, vanilla and chocolate characters Whiskey Gully Xabregas Estate with mouth puckering Wines Black Rod Granite Belt Shiraz Mount Barker Shiraz tannins and good acid. 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHHH 5+ $27.50 Murray Street McGuigan Shortlist A very stylish deep Vineyards Black Barossa Valley Hints of dark chocolate crimson wine. The well- Gomersal Wines Label Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHH and coffee grounds on rounded oak sits well Reserve Barossa 2012 HHHH An honest traditional the nose. Cool climate with the boysenberry- Valley Shiraz Very exotic fruit-driven style of shiraz palate with excellent fruit like varietal fruit 2012 HHHH shiraz. Great varietal fruit seamlessly balanced and acid structure. $26 characters. Hints of malt “Easy to drink and persistence, hints of with dark fruit, spicy Longview yakka and chocolate. Great offers a lot of pleasure,” licorice, some lovely fine oak, grippy tannins Adelaide Hills Shiraz persistence of tannins. said one judge. Plum tannins and cranberry- and piquant acidity. and vanilla characters 2012 HHH1/2 3-5 $25 like acid. 3-5 $25 5+ $28.99 wrapped in soft rounded Dense black fruit and tannins. 3-5 $25 Brygon Reserve dark chocolate aromas. Flamingo Margaret Excellent match of fruit Wolf Blass Gold River Shiraz and oak on the palate with Label Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHHH persistent tannins. $27 2012 HHHH A solid wine that’s rich Dark fruit fragrances with harmonious fruit Patritti Lot Three lifted with spices and and starting to show McLaren Vale Shiraz violets. Good palate, some maturity. Spicy 2012 HHH1/2 touch sweet/sour notes aromas and generous Nice nutty chocolaty with a strong dark mid-palate. $29.99 bouquet. Good length of chocolaty finish. $27.50 black fruit flavours with Griffin Adelaide Hills balancing oak and drying Tapestry Estate Shiraz 2010 HHHH tannins. $28 McLaren Vale Shiraz Great drink. Excellent 2012 HHHH concentration of fruit Reillys Wines dry Cherry Ripe-like aromas sweetness. Beginning to Land Clare Valley and good balance develop nicely with some Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 between varietal fruit leathery and forest floor Spicy licoricey aromas and spicy oak on the elements. $25 with cherry notes and a firm tannic palate with soft and juicy fruit/oak good acid spine. $28 Trentham Estate palate. Drinking well Family Reserve now - don’t wait! $29 Thorn-Clarke Eden Heathcote Shiraz Malone Wines Trail Eden Valley 2010 HHHH Patrick of Alkoomi Frankland Wrattonbully Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHH Wine in the savoury Coonawarra River Shiraz Viognier 2012 HHHHH Plenty of choc mint spectrum with Wrattonbully Shiraz 2012 HHH “A monster of a wine,” and vanilla on the nose. complexity of leather, 2010 HHHH Lifted mélange of declared one judge. Black spicy fruit flavours spices and chocolaty Aged nuances showing apricot, violet and Almost porty with well-balanced by firm notes on the nose and up on the soft malty pepper aromas. Good lots going on. Lovely tannins, oak and tart palate and firm grippy cherry nose and the firm core of sweet fruit on a aromatic lift to the briary acidity. 3-5 $28 tannins. 5+ $26 fleshy blue fruit palate firm tannic palate. $25 nose. Fruity yet savoury with its smooth velvety palate with Bonox note tannins. $29 and grippy tannins. 5+ $28 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 81

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X The Wine Society SHIRAZ & Bellarine Estate Majella Coonawarra director’s Selection Two Wives Shiraz 2013 HHHH Special old Vines BLENDS Geelong Shiraz Subdued aromatics Shiraz 2012 HHH 2014 & 2013 2013 HHHH1/2 of vanilla, cedar and Ageing full-flavoured An aromatic spicy fruit chocolate. Expressive shiraz with red fruits $30-$35 nose wrapped up in palate - lots of fleshy dark tempered with cedary oak and leading cherry flavours with crisp spices. Good acid and 21 TASTED on to a brooding palate acidity. 3-5 $30 tannins. $26.99 19 AWARDED with good sweet varietal fruit richness with well- Z Wine Rustica Rusty Mutt More diversity appearing integrated chocolaty oak. Reserve Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz 3-5 $32 Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH in this group with good 2013 HHHH Spicy red fruit aromas; representation of cool Moppity A big friendly style hints of cedar and climate wines. A lot of Vineyards Estate of wine with loads of mocha. Good balance interest and good level Hilltops Shiraz flavour. Has a pretty of flavours and supple 2013 HHHH1/2 floral lift to the nose and tannins. $27.50 of highlights overall A very nice wine with a soft juicy tannins on the agreed the judges. lovely subtlety of blue fruity palate. $30 Ashbrook Estate fruits and violets on the Margaret River Handcrafted nose. Good weight and Paxton Quandong Shiraz 2012 HHH by Geoff Hardy vinosity to the palate Farm McLaren Vale Cooked fruit characters McLaren Vale Shiraz and showing a touch Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 on nose and palate 2013 HHHHH Bowen Estate of prunes. Fine tannin Blue fruits and tight with Asian spice lift, A complex dense Coonawarrra Shiraz persistence. $32 grain oak on the nose slippery tannins and crimson wine smelling 2013 HHHHH with a hint of violets. crisp acid. $29 of black fruits and licorice Nose reminiscent of Rosemount Estate Soft subtle tannins on with a delicate lift of fruit cake with fine floral Little Berry Shiraz the nice weighty fruit Brown Brothers Ten violets. Weighty briary aromatics with similar 2013 HHHH1/2 palate. $30 Acres Heathcote fruit palate has lovely characters following Good mid-weight style Shiraz 2012 HHH grainy tannins and hints through on to the palate. of shiraz with a bright Lost Buoy Lion Point Spicy red fruit nose; of coffee grounds on the Some svelte tannins, fruit bouquet layered McLaren Vale Shiraz some bottle age finish. 5+ $30 nice acidity and dark with spicy oak and a 2013 HHH1/2 developing. Fresher chocolaty elements. richer palate of black Plums and prunes on palate with nice 3-5 $33 fruits and prunes with the nose; lots of spices fruit weight and firm fine tannin structure. and pepper. Palate tannins. $29.99 3-5 $32 developing nicely; good fruit/oak integration. d’Arenberg The Wild Barwon Ridge 3-5 $30 Pixie McLaren Vale Geelong Shiraz Shiraz 2011 HHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Redgate Wines Spicy peppery notes to Dense, rich and perfectly Margaret River the nose. Firm palate with balanced shiraz. Lots of Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 good concentration of lovely spicy blue fruit Nose a combo of sweet fruit flavours. $29 characters with violet rhubarb and white nuances, excellent pepper aromas. Oaky Geoff Merrill Jacko’s tannin structure and palate with sweet McLaren Vale Shiraz a long lingering oaky fruit underneath and 2010 HHH finish. 3-5 $33 “squeaky” tannins. $33 Good for drinking now with obvious fruit Babich Winemakers Jack Rabbit Geelong development, ripe tannins Reserve Hawke’s Shiraz 2014 HHH and good acidity. $27.50 Bay Syrah Simple youthful wine 2013 HHHH with bright primary fruit Murray Street A very attractive, aromatic aromas and fresh and Vineyards The fruit-driven style with crisp in the mouth. $30 Barossa Shiraz dark brooding bouquet Grenache Mataro Fox Creek Short and a very pretty blue Galafrey Mount 2009 HHH Row McLaren Vale fruits palate. Nice tannin Barker WA Shiraz Looking old. Nose Shiraz 2013 HHHHH Hahn Barossa weight. $30 NZ 2013 HHH developing leathery A firm and well- Vineyards Catharina A pretty bright crimson notes. Core of sweet structured bright red Barossa Shiraz Eldredge Blue Chip wine with subtle fruit flavours fading, but wine with brooding 2013 HHHHH Clare Valley Shiraz chocolaty plum nose and a nice package. $25 briary blackberry “Lots of drinking 2013 HHHH spicy fruit on the grippy bouquet and tight pleasure to be had with Plum-like aromas with palate. $30 oak support. Tannin this one,” enthused one some pruney elements dominated palate is judge. A savoury touch and a lovely spicy lift. Jack Rabbit JRV loaded with dark fruit to the nose and a palate Firm drying palate with Geelong Shiraz flavours and long thick with blackberry good vinosity and length 2013 HHH lingering finish. of fruit. $30 Aromas of tar and toasty and plum flavours with a 5+ $32 strong oak finish. oak. Acid prominent on the palate with cranberry 3-5 $34.95 characters. $30 82 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Limb Vineyards Currency Creek Barossa Shiraz ostrich Hill Currency 2013 HHH Creek Shiraz Subtle aromas of blue 2012 HHHH1/2 fruits, cherries and oak. “Great quaffer Pretty fleshy fruit palate - for drinking now,” good vinosity. $30 suggested one judge. Very pronounced sweet SHIRAZ & fruit characters with powerful chocolaty oak, BLENDS soft tannins and good 2012 & OLDER line of acid. $30 $30-$35 Shaw Family Vintners The 9N 20 TASTED Single Vineyard 19 AWARDED McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Ripe fruit fragrances in Consistent group of the prune-like spectrum wines showing more with quite lifted violet bottle maturation characters. A well-made secondary characters (in rich fruit cake-like palate ripe with tannins and an a good way) rather than oak overlay. $30 just primary fruit. “These are not overt in any way and have excellent fruit and oak balance along with intensity; you can buy these with confidence.” Peter Lehmann drawcard Barossa Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 A lovely ripe plum pudding of a wine. Deep crimson colour with hints of ‘baked earth’-like characters on the nose Garners Heritage and lots of sweet fruit Reserve Strathbogie and soft tannins filling up Ranges Shiraz the palate. $30 2012 HHHHH Complex cedary oak Sidewood Estate sitting on top of raspberry Adelaide Hills Shiraz coulis-like fruit aromas. 2009 HHHH1/2 Fruity palate; rhubarb and Lovely development cranberry characters with and maturity here with oak in the background complex bouquet of blue and savoury tannin fruits, aromatic spices profile. $34 and barnyard characters. Nicely maturing palate with soft tannins. Needs food. $30 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 83

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Chalkers Crossing The Gate Morambro Creek SHIRAZ & Hilltops Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Padthaway Shiraz 2012 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 2012 HHH BLENDS Quite spicy and lifted Choc mint, spices and Cherry fruit aromas 2013 $35-$40 aromas smelling red fruit on the nose with a light menthol of rhubarb and and a savoury fruit lift. Some Bonox-like 15 TASTED mulberries. Lean and profile on the very characters on the blue 14 AWARDED green on the palate firmly structured tannic fruit palate. $34.95 with a spicy aftertaste. palate. $34.95 Needs time. $30 RidgeView Very strong class of Generations Reserve elegant styles. “Beautiful La Curio Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz elegant mid-weight wines McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH wrapped in a tannin 2012 HHHH Elegant, restrained and Dense layers of fruit, Rhone-like with stemmy cover,” said one judge. licorice and toasty oak green fruitiness and aromas and ripe fruit chalky tannins. $30 flavours well-matched by the oak and tannins. Walter Wines Nice drink. $31 Federation Hill Reserve Mudgee Curtis Family Wines Shiraz 2011 HHH Cavaliere McLaren Forest floor characters Hahn Barossa Vale Shiraz on the nose and well- Vineyards Catharina 2012 HHHH structured savoury Barossa Shiraz Chocolaty bouquet with palate with complexity 2012 HHHH plenty of sweet briary developing. $33 Complexity of dark fruits fruit and a complexity and licorice on the nose of malty fruit and oak in umamu Estate with some subservient the mouth with a good Margaret River oak and lots of violets. tannic grip. $30 Shiraz 2009 HHH Lovely palate full of fruit Nice spicy oak tends to and spice. $34.95 Willespie Margaret dominate this gracefully River Shiraz Peter Lehmann ageing wine and still has The Gate McLaren 2008 HHHH drawcard Barossa lots of acid. $34 Vale Shiraz Developed briary fruit Shiraz Mataro 2012 HHHH and dark chocolate 2012 HHH1/2 A nose of charry oak bouquet; hints of beef A full, firm nicely sitting over the cherry stock. Big rich palate balanced blend with oakdene William fruit aromas. Palate is showing some nice age attractive mulberry Geelong Shiraz firm and full and rich to it. Drink now. $30 and dark spice flavour with fruit and has a soft expression and good 2013 HHHHH A wine with poise and tannin profile. $34.95 Settlers Ridge use of the oak. $30 organic Reserve grace and also plenty of Margaret River Wattle Park power with lovely black Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Shiraz cherry fruit layered with Really lovely ‘Black 2010 HHH1/2 svelte oak. Sweet fruit Forest cake’-like Plenty of life left here nose and silky smooth aromas and a powerful still! Layers of blue palate with supple fruit oaky palate showing fruits, spicy oak and and ripe tannins. hints of prunes and fruit bottle development 3-5 $35 cake. $30 with a firm tannic backbone. $30 judges - day 4 Bill Hardy Ian McKenzie Phil Reedman MW Corporate oenologist for National wine show Master of Wine. Wine Accolade Wines (formerly judge and former co- and retail industry Constellation). 28 years’ chief winemaker for consultant. Formerly winemaking experience in Southcorp, Seppelt and product development places such as McLaren Vale, Berri Estates. Over 40 manager of Tesco Western Australia and France. years’ experience in stores, responsible for Has judged internationally the wine industry with Australia, New Zealand (France and Japan), and more than 30 years and South America. Has been an associate or senior participation in the wine judging experience in judge at more than 20 state show judging circuit. the Riverland, Adelaide and regional wine shows in Hills and McLaren Vale Australia. wine shows. 84 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g 3 oceans The Haselgrove Catkin Explorers Frankland McLaren Vale Shiraz River Margaret River 2013 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHHHH Big and brooding shiraz A wine that shows great with chocolaty fruit style and is elegant and fragrances layered balanced with lovely with subtle oak. Nice layers of blueberry mouthful of blue fruit fruit, subtle toasty oak, flavours, well-balanced some very finely knitted oak and bright fresh tannins and a long acidity. $35 lingering finish. 3-5 $36 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Shiraz Barristers Block 2013 HHHH1/2 The Bully A well put together wine Wrattonbully Shiraz with really nice fruit in 2013 HHHH1/2 the cooler spectrum. “A ripe warm style that Rhone-like complexity to consumers will love,” the nose. Crisp crunchy said one judge. Nutty acidity underscores the and spicy on the blue contemporary palate. $35 fruit nose with violet notes and firm grippy Z Wine Section palate with squeaky 3146 Barossa tannins and bright Valley Shiraz acidity. $35 2013 HHHH1/2 Nose shows nice Clarnette & restraint of raspberry, Ludvigsen spices and nutty oak. Grampians Shiraz Lovely palate that’s really 2013 HHHH1/2 together, balanced and A very nice style driven harmonious with lovely by the plum/violet fruit complexity of sweet fruit rather than the oak. flavours. $35 Palate shows cool judges - day 4 climate elegance with Anvers Adelaide hints of chocolate, proud Hills Shiraz Bill Hardy Ian McKenzie Phil Reedman MW tannins and lovely crisp 2013 HHHH1/2 Corporate oenologist for National wine show Master of Wine. Wine acidity. $35 A great modern Aussie Accolade Wines (formerly judge and former co- and retail industry style with spicy rhubarb Constellation). 28 years’ chief winemaker for consultant. Formerly aromas and a big hit of winemaking experience in Southcorp, Seppelt and product development chocolaty oak. Brightness places such as McLaren Vale, Berri Estates. Over 40 manager of Tesco of spices on the palate Western Australia and France. years’ experience in stores, responsible for with supple tannins and Has judged internationally the wine industry with Australia, New Zealand light oak. $38 (France and Japan), and more than 30 years and South America. Has been an associate or senior participation in the wine judging experience in judge at more than 20 state show judging circuit. the Riverland, Adelaide and regional wine shows in Hills and McLaren Vale Australia. wine shows. September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 85

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Nepenthe Gate Grant Burge Wines Koonara Ezra’s Gift Griffin Reserve Block Adelaide Hills Filsell Barossa Coonawarra Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHH Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 2009 HHHH Lighter style. Subdued 2012 HHHH1/2 Very stylish shiraz. The nose had a slight spicy green fruit aromas Lovely crimson Stemmy stalky notes to cherry cough syrup-like and a high acid savoury wine with dense the nose and ripe drying character to it with nice palate with well-judged spicy rhubarb and tannic palate nicely juicy black fruit and spicy tannins. $35 ripe blackberry fruit underscored by the flavours on the firm characters nicely acid. $35 tannic palate. Sirromet Wines matched with a big 5+ $35 Signature Collection dollop of oak and with Angas Valley Granite Belt Shiraz layers of firm grippy Langhorne Creek Viognier 2013 HHH tannins. $36 Shiraz 2012 HHH Quite simple with light An oaky nose and apricot notes to the lifted K1 by Geoff Hardy supple slippery fruit/oak raspberry nose and an Adelaide Hills Shiraz palate with quite an oaky elegant cherry palate. $35 2012 HHHH finish. $35 Very Rhone-like style with SHIRAZ & a complexity of fruit and Kaimira Estate Brightwater Nelson spices on the nose and BLENDS nice smooth dark fruit Syrah 2012 HHH 2012 $35-$40 flavours with a savoury Very peppery cool climate aromas which follow tannin profile. $35 Crossroads 16 TASTED through onto the simple Winemakers 14 AWARDED Schild Estate Ben fruit palate. $35 NZ Collection Hawke’s Schild Reserve Bay Syrah A strong class, but Barossa Valley Millbrook Estate 2013 HHHH1/2 overshadowed by the Shiraz 2012 HHHH Western Australia “Very youthful and full previous 2013 flight. Plum aromas with Shiraz Viognier of exuberance,” said These were bigger some raisined notes 2012 HHH one judge. Really nice blockbuster wines than and mocha oak. Palate Obvious apricot aromas. dark spicy fruit nose the 2013s with more is “alive and thick” with Good weight and length with subtle oak and fruit and tannins. dark pruney fruit and of blue fruit flavours. “A good weight of black rounded tannins. $35 lot to like.” $35 fruit and tannins on the Saltram Mamre Murray Street palate. $39.95 Brook Barossa Valley Taltarni Estate Nepenthe Gate Vineyards Red Label Barossa Shiraz Pyrenees Shiraz Block Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012 HHHHH Pepperjack Certified “A very complete wine 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHH 2009 HHHH Shiraz Cabernet that shows great finesse “A very playful wine,” Blueberry nose with Stalky cool climate 2013 HHHH and balance,” said one said one judge. subtle oak and sweet bouquet of rhubarb Pleasant ripe aromas judge. Boysenberry- Chocolaty/rhubarb fruit on the palate. Good and strawberries with reminiscent of Black like aromas with violet bouquet and soft rich acid/tannin balance. $35 a berry compote of a Forest cake and plum nuances and a ‘thick’ mouthfilling palate. palate. Has firm tannins pudding. Nice palate palate with great “Beautiful wine to drink Robert oatley and is ageing very well. weight and structure balance of dark fruits on its own.” $35 Finisterre Great 5+ $35 with well-handled oak. Southern Syrah and tannins. $37.99 domaine Asmara Stockman’s Ridge 3-5 $35.99 Private Collection 2012 HHH outlaw orange Sweet/spicy plum Sandalford Estate Sanguine Estate Reserve Margaret Heathcote Shiraz bouquet and tight Shiraz 2009 HHHH Inception Heathcote River Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 red fruit palate with Almost purple in colour Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Leathery notes to the chocolaty oak and even with minty cherry “A really nice style of This wine shows great blackberry nose; some tannins. $39.95 aromas and hints of shiraz,” said one judge. balance and poise and stalky characters. Thick, bootpolish-like aged Fresh blueberry fruit, lifted is brimming over with fat, sweet fruit palate SHIRAZ & characters. Generous spices and violet nuances full ripe blueberry-like with lots of tannins. $35 flavour concentration. with mouthcoating fruit supported by a BLENDS 5+ $35 tannins. $39.95 background of vanilla Ekhidna Single 2011 & OLDER Kaimira Estate Vineyard McLaren oak and with a tannic Taltarni Estate finish. $35 Vale Shiraz $35-$40 Brightwater Nelson Pyrenees Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 A simple and slightly 12 TASTED Smells like licorice with Nice vanilla bean lift to angular style a little in 7 AWARDED pencil-case oak and the nose and a high level the green fruit spectrum a peppery lift. Some of acid on the palate that with a powerful grippy There were some very meaty characters on the nicely highlights the fruit tannic backbone. $35 chocolaty/cherry palate. and tannins. $35 good wines here but 5+ $35 NZ there were also some that were short with very drying tannins. A mixed group. 86 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Taltarni Estate Pyrenees Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 A nose of spicy black cherries and toasty oak and a palate with a powerful hit of earthy beetroot characters. 5+ $35 Sandalford Estate Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2011 HHH Cloves and raspberries on the nose; red fruit and anise on the palate. Good acid support. 5+ $35 Hartz Barn Wines General Store Reserve Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHH domaine Asmara Cherry aromas starting Reserve Heathcote to show some age. Shiraz 2013 HHHHH Simple jammy fruit Plums, roses, pepper palate with silky tannins. and spices on the 5+ $35 nose; nice cool climate characters. Has a SHIRAZ & ‘salivatingly’ juicy palate. BLENDS “Tastes like the shiraz berries straight off the 2014-2013 vine,” said one judge. “Get on board!” $45 $40-$50 20 TASTED Z Wine Julius Barossa Valley 18 AWARDED Shiraz 2013 HHHHH A very well made wine. Very solid class with “This is one I could great consistency buy,” said one judge. Lovely sweet varietal ranging across the board fruit reminiscent of both from the nice quaffers red and black cherries to the stayers; a broad with loads of plums. Good balance of oak and spectrum generally with bitumen-like notes. $45 good fruit weight. Wolf Blass Grey Bird in Hand Mt Label McLaren Lofty Ranges Shiraz Vale Shiraz 2013 HHHHH 2013 HHHH1/2 A long silky smooth Lovely mix of black wine smelling of currant, plum and earthy fruits with a blackberry fruit well-balanced, tightly characters with good structured palate use of chocolaty oak VISIT US. showing great texture to support the fruit and and offering creamy rich good concentration EXPERIENCE THE mouthful of bright fruits, of soft approachable WHOLE RANGE. cedary oak and firm tannins. $40 tannins. $42 www.gartelmann.com.au 701 Lovedale Road, Lovedale Hunter Valley, NSW 2320, Australia September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 87

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Mills Reef Elspeth Pertaringa over the SHIRAZ & Gimblett Gravels Top McLaren Vale Hawkes Bay Syrah Shiraz 2013 HHH BLENDS SUBSCRIBE 2013 HHHH1/2 A nicely focused wine 2012 $40-$50 with clean lines of fruit, Great sweet black fruit TO OUR nose, some boot polish classy oak and meaty 25 TASTED and lavender nuances overtones. $40 23 AWARDED COMPLETE with a huge peppery Ross Hill Pinnacle lift. Chocolaty, wild PACKAGE sweet berry palate with Series orange A consistently good class across the board powdery tannins and Shiraz 2013 HHH good acid balance. Smells of sour cherries but as the judges which includes hard-copy 5+ $49.95 with a dash of white concluded, “We are and digital versions plus Foxeys Hangout pepper. Slightly green paying a bit more here fruit on a firm drying full on-line access to Mornington palate. $40 but not getting any Peninsula Shiraz Winestate’s web site and 2014 HHHH Crossroads Talisman more than some of the A pretty wine - all Hawke’s Bay Syrah previous classes.” reviews. Available only strawberries and cream 2013 HHH - violets and white Cool climate style that’s Possingham & through online order, pepper. Bright sweet lean and focused with Summers Signature Series McLaren www.winestate.com.au fruit aromas and well- rhubarb characters and Vale Shiraz powdery tannins. $45 structured balanced palate. 5+ $45 2012 HHHH1/2 Kings of Kangaroo Interesting aromas of Blue Pyrenees Ground Heathcote strawberries layered with Reserve Pyrenees Shiraz 2013 HHH cola and coconut-like Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Shy nose with subtle characters. Old school, Powerful but restrained spicy fruit aromas and oak-driven palate. Nice with fresh lively spicy grippy palate full of line and intensity of black floral fruit aromas and attractive black fruits. $45 cherry fruit and firm simple red/black cherry tannins. $40 flavour profile. McGuigan Lou Miranda Estate 5+ $40 Handmade Langhorne Creek Cordon Cut Barossa Ekhidna Linchpin Shiraz 2013 HHH Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Cherry and pepper 2012 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 aromas. Firm tannic A big style of shiraz with Deep purple wine with palate with flavours in the an earthy sour cherry meaty characters to the blue fruit spectrum. $45 bouquet and firm well- nose and warm sweet balanced palate. A little cherry/licorice palate Vinrock Block 18 warm in the mouth with with grippy tannins. $40 McLaren Vale rich ripe fruit characters Shiraz 2013 HHH and big round mouthfilling Whistler Estate Nose has some toasty tannins. $41.95 Barossa Valley oak characters and the Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 palate features minty Gomersal Wines Confectionery sweet medicinal black fruit. $45 Estate Barossa fruit and chocolaty oak Valley Shiraz on the nose and round Cable Bay Limited 2012 HHHH1/2 juicy palate with long Release Waiheke Cherry aromas with lingering finish. Island Syrah loads of chocolate and hints of licorice. Clean 5+ $40 2013 HHH Cinnamon and plums lift well-balanced palate with Zonte’s Footstep Z off the nose and the firm excellent concentration Force McLaren Vale tannic palate is layered of spices and black Shiraz Petite Sirah with sweet dark oak. plums with river pebble 2013 HHH1/2 $48 NZ minerality. $45 An interesting blend with a dark and Golden Lion brooding bouquet and Barossa Valley big grippy spicy tannic Shiraz 2013 HHH palate. Nice acid spine. Rich and ripe and quite 5+ $49.95 hot - bordering on porty with hints of spices and nice black fruits. $49.95 GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au 88 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Reillys Wines RCV Pressings Clare Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH Smooth, warm and balanced with a mélange of plum, cola, chocolate and meaty flavours wrapped in creamy oak with a tannic grip. $45 Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH Pretty cherry blossom nuances on the nose with a peppery lift. Great palate texture with excellent length and focus of bright fresh fruit. $40 Kay Brothers Brygon Reserve Hillside McLaren Private Bin Vale Shiraz Block 9 Margaret 2012 HHHH1/2 River Shiraz Dark and brooding black 2012 HHHH strap licorice-like aromas Robust oaky nose with with some violet notes. spicy tarry characters Oaky palate layered with and a totally oak-driven blackberries, chocolate palate with rich ripe fruit and more of the licorice. underneath and a huge Needs more time to tannic structure. $49.99 settle. $45 Lou Miranda Estate Howard Park old Vine Barossa Leston Margaret Valley Shiraz River Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Some aged fig and Bright blueberry nose raisined-like aromas with a slight minty lift - warm, smooth and followed by a long silky toasty in the mouth smooth palate loaded with ‘Black Forest’-like with vanilla oak and dark flavours. $41.95 cherry flavours and with Sunshine Creek a good background of Heathcote Shiraz Streicker Bridge tannins. $46 2012 HHHH Block Margaret Aromas of cherries and River Syrah domaine Asmara plums with supporting 2012 HHH1/2 Reserve Heathcote oak and meaty notes. Cherries and plum Shiraz 2012 HHHH Excellent weight and aromas with hints of Medium-bodied, well- persistence of cherry peaches. A creamy balanced and nicely fruit and classy oak. $45 palate full of sweet structured with attractive primary fruit with earthy beetroot fruit with Wolf Blass White volumes of tannins. $43 spicy floral notes and well Label Shiraz throughout wine. $45 2012 HHHH Chestnut Grove “Clean clinical style,” Reserve Manjimup thought one judge with Shiraz 2012 HHH ripe black fruits showing Spicy chocolate nose a spicy lift. Tastes of with a porty touch and licorice and chocolate a firm, clean, well- with drying tannins. $40 balanced palate. $40 Clarence Hill Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH A mix of black cherry and sour cherry fruit with some resinous oak and hints of bootpolish. $40 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 89

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Ekhidna Linchpin SHIRAZ & yarravale Reserve McLaren Vale yarra Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH BLENDS 2005 HHH A lightweight, just 2011 & OLDER Dark spicy fruit nose starting to develop, with with aged leathery blueberry and cherry $40-$50 characters and aromas and flavours. $40 developed pruney 6 TASTED flavours. $48 Fromm La Strada 4 AWARDED Marlborough Syrah SHIRAZ & 2012 HHH A mixed result! All Redefining the A peppery lift to the were showing aged BLENDS nose with tinned fruit traditions of flavours on the palate. characters, some in a 2013 $50-$60 Needs more time. $43 good way, others not so! 15 TASTED one of the world’s 14 AWARDED Barossa Babe best fortified Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH A very strong class wine regions Floral touch to the purple across both the warm fruit aromas. Blackberry and cool climate regions. palate with savoury notes adding complexity. $45 “These are attractive wines to judge,” said deep Woods Estate one judge. “This is a Block 7 Reserve Margaret River testament to the vintage Shiraz 2012 HHH and the winemakers A simple clean well- giving us elegance and made wine with sweet fruit, sappy oak and structure.” drying tannins. $45 Jester Hill Touchstone Granite Belt Shiraz 2012 HHH Great nose - sweet fruit leaps out the glass. Palate is tarry and toasty Parous McLaren with drying tannins. $45 Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 McGuigan Big, warm, old school Handmade style. Complex earthy Langhorne Creek beetroot bouquet with Shiraz 2012 HHH a hint of mint. Simple “Smells like a blackberry clean juicy palate has pie,” said one judge. Has mouthwatering black quite a grippy and high cherry flavours and good acid palate. $45 acid/tannin profile. $40 The award winning Renaissance Millbrook Estate Casella Limited Limited Release Release Shiraz 2013 Viognier Roussanne Marsanne Western Australia 2010 HHH has been handcrafted from the best Shiraz 2012 HHH A complexity of plums Wairau River Reserve fruit our vineyard produces, and A good clean, well- and licorice on the nose. Syrah 2013 HHHHH matured in the finest oak barrels. made wine with Palate on the earthy A delightful style of layers of cherries, black side with nice line of It heralds a new perspective on fruits, pepper and acid. $45 shiraz - very typical of a the ideal suitability of the chosen cinnamon. $45 cool climate wine. The blue fruits layer up well varieties to the Rutherglen region. McGuigan with the nutty oak on Grant Burge The Handmade Vigneron Natural Langhorne Creek the nose with spicy fruit RUtherglen Estates Cellar Door Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH richness to the palate and very fine savoury Open 7 Days from 10am to 5.30pm Shiraz 2012 HHH Spicy red currant tannins. $50 NZ 13–35 Drummond Street, Rutherglen VIC Oak-driven style with nice aromas and very drying 02 6032 7999 [email protected] fruit structure underneath grippy tannic palate WWW.RUTHERGLENESTATES.COM.AU with earthy leathery with aged secondary development. $49.95 characters. $45 Proudly regional | Estate grown Quality | Innovation & personality 90 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Gumpara Mader Mr. Riggs Scarce Reserve Barossa Earth McLaren Vale Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH1/2 “A really finely put A really nice style with together Aussie style,” a fresh complexity of noted one judge. “Offers blackberry and mocha plenty of pleasure.” aromas with a ripe Layers of fruit with good full-bodied black fruit oak nuances. $50 palate. High level of acid ensures a long life. “Still Pepperjack a pup.” $50 Porterhouse Graded Shiraz 2013 HHHH Patritti JPB McLaren Attractive aromatic Vale Shiraz blueberry and raspberry 2013 HHHH1/2 fruit supported by some “A brooding black beauty subtle oak with a good of a wine,” with an acid line and graphite- old fashioned Aussie like tannins. $50 touch. Layer upon layer of sweet fruit, grippy Fox Creek old Vine tannins and bright McLaren Vale Shiraz acidity. Years ahead of it 2013 HHH1/2 Sanguine Estate yet. 5+ $50 A big ripe juicy style d’orsa Heathcote seamlessly layered with Shiraz 2013 HHHHH Pepperjack Scotch youthful blackberry fruit, Very fruity wine Fillet Graded Shiraz hint of licorice and lovely with a nose that’s 2013 HHHH1/2 classy oak. $50 a complexity of Strong dense crimson blackberry compote and wine with a spicy light spicy oak. Palate blueberry elegance of is firm and very tannic varietal fruit seamlessly T E with powerful fruit and integrated with the oak WINESTATE INTERNATIONAL CABERNET TASTING high acidity. Very good and supported by strong but needs lots more tannins - both fruit and time. 5+ $59.95 oak. 5+ $50 Karrawatta Joseph’s Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 Big super rich sweet blueberry fruit on both the nose and palate. The nose is a complexity of aromatics with a palate that is slippery soft and layered with flavour. $54 Lerida Estate Lake George Canberra district Shiraz 2013 HHHH1/2 Murdoch James Blue Described by one judge Rock Martinborough as, “A lightly framed Syrah 2013 HHH1/2 wine”. Has good line An interesting lighter of slightly austere style. Obvious pepper blueberry-like fruit with and spice with red fruits, HUON HOOKE TYSON STELZER MIKE BENNIE good spicy lift, tons of light licorice and a hint of 95 95 95 grippy tannins and lots barnyard characters. $50 POINTS POINTS POINTS Glenwillow Reserve of acid. $55 Bendigo Shiraz Mollydooker Wines 2013 HHHH1/2 Blue Pyrenees Blue Eyed Boy Described as a “more is Richardson Pyrenees McLaren Vale & more” style. It’s full and Shiraz 2013 HHHH Langhorne Creek fleshy and has excellent A strong wine. Shiraz 2013 HHH weight and length of Very aromatic spicy Powerful chippy oak dark fruits and spicy oak blackberry bouquet with notes to the nose and underscored with some nice oak. Lovely weight strong blue fruit palate. very soft tannins. $50 of fruit on the palate Will settle with time. $50 with ripe tannins, crisp acidity and a chocolaty finish. $50 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 91 BRA042_POC_GrandeReserve_WineState_59x270_Ad_FA.indd 127/04/2015 2:34 pm

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X SHIRAZ & Claymore Nirvana Anvers The Warrior Patritti JPB BLENDS Clare Valley Shiraz Adelaide Hills McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHH 2012 $50-$60 Rich intensity of Shiraz 2012 HHHH Smoky bacon hints to the nose with more of chocolaty/blueberry Tight and bright on the 22 TASTED aromas. Luscious sweet nose; lots of pepper and the same on the plum 19 AWARDED mulberry palate. Good spice with chocolaty sauce-like palate. $50 flavour concentration, notes. Blueberry palate smooth tannins, crisp with hints of bitumen Songlines Some are trying to over acid. $50 and rosemary notes. $55 McLaren Vale deliver on oak and fruit Shiraz 2012 HHH to make the “world’s Gatt Barossa Valley Murray Street Earthy nose and dusty greatest wine”! “The Shiraz 2012 HHHH Vineyards Gomersal leathery palate with blueberry fruit and spice Barossa Valley Blueberry nose shows best showed great slight earthiness with Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 peeking through. $50 balance and persistence raisined characters. The Spicy plum bouquet with of flavour reflecting palate is smooth, long candied/raisined note. Witches Falls Granite Belt intuitive winemaking,” and creamy with nutty Fresh medium-bodied Shiraz 2012 HHH sour cherry, raspberry nougat flavours. $50 said one judge. “Others and licorice palate. $55 Quite a flinty cool climate have given away texture style with good level of to the detriment of the Shingleback d Block blackcurrant fruit and Reserve McLaren lovely soft tannins. $51 wine.” Vale Shiraz old Faithful Top 2012 HHH1/2 Murray Street of the Hill McLaren Mulberry fragrances Vineyards Greenock Vale Shiraz with peppery touch. Barossa Valley 2010 HHHH Long, firm and balanced Shiraz 2012 HHH Very clean bright palate has good fruit, The nose is all bacon, spicy plum aromas good oak and good leather and barnyardy. with a dash of pepper. tannins. $55 The palate is all licorice Christmas cake-like and chocolate. $55 characters on the slightly Blue Pyrenees leathery palate. $50 Richardson Pyrenees Brygon Reserve Shiraz 2012 HHH Small Batch Soft and approachable Margaret River with mulberry-like varietal Shiraz 2012 HHH fruit and some spicy/ Nice intensity of peppery nuances. $50 strawberry-like aromas with a high acid, Greg Norman powdery tannin, blue Reserve Limestone fruit palate. $59.99 Coast Shiraz Murdoch James Blue 2012 HHH SHIRAZ & Rock Martinborough Quite a meaty beefy Syrah 2012 HHHH savoury style. Hints of BLENDS Peppery cool climate Vegemite-like aromas style with slight green and a grippy tannic 2011 & OLDER Glenwillow Reserve edge to the fruit. Green palate. $50 Bendigo Shiraz bean aromas and $50-$60 2012 HHHHH cranberry flavours with Gumpara Mader 19 TASTED Lovely floral nose; powdery tannins. $50 Reserve Barossa 9 AWARDED all rose petals and Valley Shiraz jasmine with complexity Saltram Winemakers 2012 HHH developing. The palate Selection Shiraz Cherry Ripe-like nose A struggle for the judges is layered and complex Tempranillo with a chocolaty palate with the older wines with more of the floral 2012 HHHH full of sweet caramel-like generally disappointing. fruit seen on the nose. An interesting blend. fruit characters. $50 Brown Brothers Good level of drying Smells of mulberries Most of these were dull Patricia Heathcote tannins and acid. $50 with hints of cinnamon Mr. Riggs and boring, “vanilla ice Shiraz 2009 HHHH and a dash of pepper. McLaren Vale cream styles,” said one Smells like a toffee Penley Estate Long squeaky clean Shiraz 2012 HHH apple! Interesting Special Select palate delivers cherry Ripe plum and mulberry judge. “Very little fruit aged flavours of dried Coonawarra Shiraz flavours. $50 varietal fruit. Powerful expression or regional herbs, oyster shells 2012 HHHH1/2 drying tannins and nice characters; those that and some meatiness Sweet plum pudding of Wolf Blass Brown level of spiciness. $50 did well let the site do supported by firm a nose with ‘Chinese Label Shiraz drying tannins. $55.95 kitchen’-like spices. 2012 HHHH the talking.” Powerful oak on the A long, balanced, palate with stewed fruit clean wine with the characters, some Five soft bright cherry fruits Spice and great tight well-integrated with the tannin structure. $50.50 vanilla oak and has tight drying tannins. $50 92 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Gumpara Reserve SHIRAZ & Moppity Vineyards Trevor Jones Belle Michelton Print Barossa Valley Reserve Hilltops - Terrior Sorcerie Shiraz 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH BLENDS Shiraz 2013 HHHH Sauvage Shiraz Earthy fruit on the Dark inky bouquet with 2013 $60-$75 Nice earthiness to the 2012 HHHH nose and an excellent, some cherry, nutmeg nose with slight medicinal A well-made wine slightly extracted, long, and cloves. Big oaky 7 TASTED character. Spices, plums with chocolaty red fruit warm, meaty palate. palate has lots of 7 AWARDED and hints of gum leaves bouquet and finely Still has more room left leathery characters on the firm drying tannic grained tannin palate to grow. $70 mingling with spicy black palate. $70 supporting dark berry fruit. $50 Small flight of consistent and black olive fruit. $60 Montara Chalambar wines reflecting the Hemera Estate Rd Grampians Nepenthe strong 2013 vintage. Block 3A Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHHH Winemaker Select Shiraz 2013 HHH Distinctive black strap Adelaide Hills Shiraz A wine of boysenberries licorice aromas with a Viognier 2010 HHHH and blackberries with dash of pepper. Plum Good varietal fruit spicy highlights. Sweet and chocolate characters expression. Floral and and creamy in the fill the mouth with spicy on the nose and a mouth. $65 flavour. $70 clean, lean and slightly meaty palate with good Schild Estate Pramie Paracombe drying tannins. $50 Barossa Valley Somerville Adelaide Shiraz 2013 HHH Hills Shiraz Malone Wines Nose is an intensity of 2009 HHHH Wrattonbully Shiraz plums and spices. Nicely A bright simple cherry/ 2009 HHH1/2 balanced fruit palate berry nose with a long Black cherry nose - a showing fine tannins. $70 warming sweet fruit touch porty with a warm palate balanced by palate showing some Rosemount Estate vanillin oak and soft leathery influence to the Balmoral Syrah tannins. $69 flavours. Good cedary 2013 HHH oak. $50 Good balance and Thorn-Clarke William complexity here with Randell Barossa Patritti JPB spicy brambly fruit, Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale chocolaty notes and fine An earthy licorice Shiraz 2010 HHH tannins. $74.99 Grampians Estate bouquet followed by Toasty, bacon and Streeton Reserve a warm concentration salami-like elements Sidewood Estate SHIRAZ & Grampians Shiraz of sweet licorice and showing here with a big Mappinga Adelaide 2012 HHHH strawberry flavours. $60 grippy tannic drive. $50 Hills Shiraz BLENDS Bright and full of life 2013 HHHH1/2 with lovely floral red Longview The Piece Barossa Babe Vibrant confectionery- 2012 & OLDER berry bouquet and Adelaide Hills Shiraz Barossa Valley like strawberry aromas $60-$75 a peppery lift. The 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH edged with lavender. chocolaty palate has a Cherry cola-like nose Meaty Vegemite aromas. Creamy smooth in the 23 TASTED certain mintiness with similar characters Big tannic palate. Some mouth. Excellent line 16 AWARDED to it. $65 echoed on the palate earthiness to the sweet and length of raspberry with some fruit cake fruit flavours. $55 and rose petal flavours A mixed group which Geoff Merrill complexity and firm and a tight tannin Reserve Sacred tannins. $70 Tenafeate Creek structure. $60 we shouldn’t see at this Earth McLaren Vale Basket Press price. “Is this a case of Shiraz 2010 HHHH Rosemount Estate Museum Release Moorilla Muse St Bootpolish-like Balmoral Syrah one Tree Hill Matthias Vineyard under-delivering or are characters on the nose 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH Tasmania Syrah the other categories mingling with the A subtlety of plums and A mix of blackberry, 2013 HHHH1/2 over-delivering,” asked sweet fruit. Warm in the pepper on the nose with plum and violet aromas. Inky nose with savoury one judge. However the mouth; lots of plum and a drying tannic palate Hot and grippy in the smallgoods-like aromas. rhubarb based flavours showing flavours of mouth; dark berry Slightly hot palate is a best here do deliver with with herbal notes. $65 vanilla and plums. $74.99 flavours. $55 complexity of ripe rich good balance of fruit, fruit, spices, oak and oak and acid. Longview The Piece Tenafeate Creek McGuigan Shortlist a powerful backbone Adelaide Hills Shiraz Basket Press Barossa Valley of tannins. “Very good Taylors Wines St 2010 HHHH Museum Release Shiraz 2006 HHH drinking,” said one Andrews Clare A well-made wine - one Tree Hill Shiraz Big old school style judge. $65 Valley Shiraz but drink soon! Some 2004 HHH1/2 ageing gracefully. It’s 2012 HHHH savoury notes to the A well-made wine for all leather, bacon, spice Sileni Estate Vintage Spices and rhubarb lift off nose and a cream soda drinking now. A delicious and licorice with cherry Hawke’s Bay Syrah the nose and chocolate and cola-like palate with concoction of earth, notes. $50 2013 HHHH cake-like characters along bitumen touches. $70 leather, spices, plums Confectionery floral with the firm tannins and licorice. $70 fruit bouquet with a fill the mouth up with sweet vanillin oak palate flavour. $60 that has plum-like fruit, good oak and warming alcohol. $60 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 93

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Tapestry The Vincent The Grapes of Ross McLaren Vale Shiraz Spirit of Endurance 2012 HHH Barossa Valley Mulberries mix with Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 spices and oak on the Beef stock and beef nose. Spicy chocolaty bone savouriness palate with tight obvious on the nose and tannins. $60 followed by pleasant dry sour cherry flavours. $85 Ekhidna Rechner McLaren Vale Shiraz d’Arenberg The 2010 HHH Amaranthine Meaty beefy bouquet McLaren Vale which is echoed on the Shiraz 2013 HHH aged palate. Powdery Some well-handled, tannins and a long clean, lively varietal fruit click finish. $60 here nicely integrated with the oak. $99 Zitta Wines Greenock Barossa d’Arenberg Tyche’s Shiraz 2009 HHH Mustard McLaren blink Aromas of stewed fruit Vale Shiraz and tar with a warm dark 2013 HHH chocolaty palate and good Mollydooker Wines A firm assertive tannic tannin structure. $65 Carnival of Love style but has good drink Montara Chalambar McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit and oak sitting underneath. $99 Rd Grampians 2013 HHHH A long generous Shiraz 2009 HHH wine with good lift of SHIRAZ & Powerful oak-driven raspberry, blueberry style with hints of spicy and violet aromas and BLENDS 2012 fruit, chalky tannins vibrant primary fruit and leathery aged flavours with floral $75-$100 characters. $70 notes. $75 16 TASTED 14 AWARDED SHIRAZ & Annies Lane Copper BLENDS Trail Clare Valley Variable results but Shiraz 2013 HHHH 2013 $75-$100 Sweet leathery-like still a very solid class bouquet with hints of across the board with 9 TASTED Sarsaparilla. Slightly judges having their own 8 AWARDED drying chocolaty flavours with refined tannins and preferences. No problem a warming finish. $79.99 with flavour here! Solid and consistent class; to be expected Kalleske Eduard Wolf Blass Estates for the price. All had Barossa Valley of the Barossa Shiraz 2013 HHHH Lyndoch Barossa intense fruit but it was Subtle hints of sour Valley Shiraz what was done with cherries and olives on 2012 HHHHH the wines that decided the nose with a big ripe, A beautiful lively their scores. “The best well-worked fruit/oak seamlessly balanced palate showing a nice showed winemaking touch of spiciness. $85 wine with plenty of room to grow in the sensitivity keeping bottle. Subtle integration the fruit and oak in Baileys of of prune, licorice and Glenrowan Varley balance whilst retaining Glenrowan Shiraz pepper aromas with cherry, cola and clove- vibrancy.” 2013 HHH1/2 like flavours. $80 Bright, fresh, ripe Fox Creek Reserve strawberry aromas with Wolf Blass Estates McLaren Vale Shiraz a lean palate that has of the Barossa 2013 HHHH long juicy flavours and dorrien Barossa Olive and plum drying tannins. $75 Valley Shiraz characters on the nose 2012 HHHHH with a warming palate A very well put together that has nice balance of shiraz. “Wine of the day,” sweet fruit, some spice as far as one judge was and drying tannins. $75 concerned. A long and intense earthy, licorice, Visit us for all your premium wine needs plum, lavender, vanilla pulpitcellars.com.au and spicy experience! 5+ $80 94 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015 SeptOct-StripAdvert-FA.indd 1 1/06/2015 9:35 am

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g McGuigan Saltram Marble Saltram No. 1 Farms Barossa Quarry Road Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHH Distinctly Ribena-like Excellent inky depth Inky and savoury on aromas and a warming of fruit cake and cedar- the nose with more of alcohol palate with like fragrances and the savoury characters dry sour cherry showing well retained following through to the flavours. $99.95 fruit intensity on the long, nicely textured, balanced palate with its palate with dry red/sour SHIRAZ & excellent drying finish. cherry flavours. Dry 5+ $75 finish. $90.99 BLENDS Annies Lane Pirramimma War 2011 & OLDER Copper Trail Clare Horse McLaren Vale $75-$100 Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Developing savoury 25 TASTED The nose is all chocolate, Vegemite-like bouquet 11 AWARDED plums and licorice and and dense chocolaty/ has a lovely integration stewed fruit palate that’s of fruit and oak on the round and soft in the Disappointing to see soft smooth palate with mouth. $80 wines in this price a slightly prickly acid category being overly finish. 5+ $79.99 Ekhidna Rarefied alcoholic with dull fruit; McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 the 2011s suffered from Developing dusty cocoa the vintage conditions aromas and great palate while others were balance with spicy sweet blueberry fruit simply overworked. with meaty notes. $90 The standouts however justified the price. Francesco Reserve Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012 HHH A very flavoursome, soft, dense, rich wine with leafy notes and savoury/ bacon notes. $79.99 Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa St Johns Ebenezer Road Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHH A very simple style with youthful aromatics and mid-weight primary fruit Murray Street palate. $80 Vineyards Benno Barossa Wolf Blass Estates Shiraz Mataro of the Barossa 2012 HHHH1/2 Moculta Barossa Very attractive aromas Valley Shiraz - smells of plums and 2012 HHH chocolate with a meaty Big, broad, well- touch. Lots of sweet integrated aromas and Hemera Estate JdR fruit flavours with more powerful sour cherry Barossa Shiraz meaty/salami elements flavours on a drying 2010 HHHHH on the warm silky palate. 3-5 $80 A huge wine but kept palate. $75 nicely in check with Kalleske Eduard amazing concentration Thorn-Clarke Barossa Valley of raspberry-like fruit and Ron Thorn Shiraz 2012 HHH beautiful oak to balance. Barossa Shiraz Lean and slightly stalky Lifted spicy bouquet; 2012 HHHH1/2 green bean and rhubarb rich, sweet and warming The nose is soft, smoky aromas with some in the mouth. $80 and developing nicely. sweet leathery notes on Interesting range the palate. $85 and great length; of graphite, crushed ant, iodine and gum leaf-like flavours. Ready for drinking now. $95 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 95

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Saltram Moculta d’Arenberg The SHIRAZ & Pertaringa The Gatt old Vine Road Shiraz Amaranthine yeoman McLaren Barossa Valley 2010 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz BLENDS Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHH A classic leafy style of 2011 HHH1/2 2013-2012 2013 HHHHH Super ripe aromas but shiraz that’s all lean, Nice balance of spice A bright and youthful not too jammy with a elegant and stylish. and fruit on the nose; $100-$200 wine that is full of long creamy smooth Quite a spicy hit obvious sweet harmoniously 16 TASTED promise! It has an palate that has great on the nose with a balanced palate abundance of sweet flavour concentration seamlessly balanced with good flavour 12 AWARDED juicy ripe fruit characters and balance. $100 palate showing lovely concentration. $99 with some very good savoury flavours. $90.99 Most of these were still oak handling and a Bird in Hand Nest Audrey Wilkinson certain degree of Egg Mt Lofty Ranges Saltram No. 1 Shiraz The Lake Hunter babies! The standouts refinement! $195 Shiraz 2012 HHHH 2010 HHHHH Valley Shiraz showed genuine An inky, spicy, oak-driven Big and generous 2011 HHH cellaring potential. Bird in Hand Nest style with aniseed, style with an inky, oak- Some spiciness Others were “just too Egg Mt Lofty cinnamon and nutmeg dominated nose and on a simple nose. Ranges Shiraz characters on the nose great balance to a palate Lightweight savoury big with blockbuster 2013 HHHH1/2 and soft well-balanced that shows excellent palate; good layers of flavours but without Nice subtle oak/fruit raisined palate. $110 concentration of spicy flavour. $80 balancing finesse and complexity on the nose varietal fruit with lovely with a very stylish palate Kalleske Johann oak in check. $99.95 d’Arenberg The grace,” said one judge. that is full of soft vibrant Georg Barossa Sardanapalian flavours showing pepper Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale and spice and good level 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2011 HHH of tannins. $110 Huge vanilla lift to the An opulent wine that nose and big well- is evolving beautifully. dell’uva composed palate; soft Plush fruit with nice Bremner Barossa and rich in the mouth peppery elements. $99 Valley Shiraz with loads of tannins. 2013 HHHH1/2 Good commercial style – d’Arenberg The Little A very youthful and will appeal to many. $120 Venice McLaren Vale promising wine. Shiraz 2011 HHH Excellent depth of Schild Estate A tight inky nose with colour, bright and spicy Moorooroo Barossa spicy/licorice aromas on the nose and a palate Valley Shiraz and a well-balanced that is elegant and 2012 HHH1/2 savoury palate. $99 refined with long juicy An advanced oaky style flavours. $125 - long, balanced and Warrenmang Black complex with a great Puma Pyrenees Wolf Blass Platinum intensity of licorice and Shiraz 2009 HHH Label Medlands blue fruit characters. $100 Huge minty nose and Vineyard Barossa warm robust palate with Valley Shiraz Kalleske Johann good fruit sweetness and 2013 HHHH1/2 Georg Barossa massive tannins. $80 A big solid heavyweight Valley Shiraz with subdued aromas 2013 HHH Lovat Vineyard Sandalford McLaren Vale III but a big mouthfilling A huge, super ripe, dry River Prendiville Margaret Associates Giant concentration of Christmas cake of a Martinborough River Shiraz Squid Ink McLaren flavours and showing wine. “Almost zinfandel- Syrah 2011 2009 HHH Vale Shiraz some great tannins. It like,” according to one HHHH1/2 This wine shows its just needs more time. judge. $120 Amazingly peppery and maturity but is still 2012 HHHHH 5+ $190 spicy on the nose. The hanging in there. Dark, intense and Gralyn Estate palate is elegant and Good fruit/tannin/oak brooding number. Wolf Blass Platinum Reserve Margaret youthful with beautiful balance. $90 Smells like beef stock. Label Medlands River Shiraz intensity of sweet spice Beautifully layered palate Vineyard Barossa 2012 HHH and plum-like varietal with fabulous depth and Valley Shiraz Attractive vibrant shiraz. fruit expression. $92 concentration of sweet/ 2012 HHHH1/2 Touch of Hessian on the sour fruit, grippy tannins Vibrant ruby colour, fine nose and a lean, slightly Eldredge Blue Chip and alcohol warmth. $150 chocolaty bouquet and smoky palate. $120 Clare Valley Shiraz an excellent, elegant 2010 HHHH structure to the palate Very concentrated spirity with solid ripe varietal Cognac-like bouquet fruit flavours and slightly and a warm rich palate varnishy oak. $190 layered with super ripe mulberry-like fruit with some mintiness. $75 96 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g SHIRAZ & Saltram The Journal Grant Burge Wines Centenarian Barossa Meshach Barossa BLENDS Valley Shiraz Valley Shiraz 2011 & OLDER 2010 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2 Powerful! Deep rich The nose has an oaky $100-$200 debut followed by some balanced aromas with lots of sweet ripe fruit. 14 TASTED fine red fruit elements. Great palate; a tad hot Big, robust and full- 11 AWARDED bodied palate has an with concentrated fruit excellent expression of flavours, nice soft oak “No simple wines varietal fruit. $174.99 and a drying finish. $155 here!” noted the judges. Grant Burge Wines Pertaringa The The good wines were Meshach Barossa yeoman McLaren great but also there Valley Shiraz Vale Shiraz was more diversity. 2009 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH Colour showing the A wine with grace and A few had fading fruit style and maturing wines age with the but the best had more beautifully. Hints aromas reflecting this. A developed complexity. of camphor on the poised elegant palate that nose with a good is a lovely harmony of concentration of flavours spicy berry flavours. $195 on the harmonious Casella 1919 Craneford Fire palate. $155 Geoff Merrill Henley Wrattonbully Shiraz Station Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHHH Valley Shiraz 2005 HHHH “A gloriously sexy 2008 HHHHH Intriguing aged wine; smooth wine,” A very ripe shiraz while complex and herbal with enthused one judge. avoiding the hot alcohol mature aromas and good It has an abundance that often goes with it. balance of integrated of red fruit characters The colour shows the flavours on a slightly hot showing a bright wine’s age. Has a lovely palate. $155 peppery lift and overall balance and wrapped in warming intensity of varietal fruit alcohol and firm and spice. $135 tannins. $100 September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 97

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE X Casella 1919 Shiraz Bird in Hand M.A.C 2008 HHH1/2 Mt Lofty Ranges Big, soft, oak-driven Shiraz 2012 HHHHH commercial style An excellent young wine with spicy/sweet fruit - very stylish and pretty characters showing with lovely aromatics savoury notes and lots showing some of tannins. $100 complexity. Beautiful fruit expression on a Gralyn Estate palate that has great Reserve Margaret poise and grace. $350 River Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Bird in Hand M.A.C Licorice characters lift Adelaide Hills Shiraz off the nose with its 2010 HHHHH Hessian-like notes. A very ‘smart’ wine. It is Graceful palate; tarry, complex and balanced spicy and herbal. $180 and beautifully layered Estate grown fruit, hand-crafted, with superb oak and award winning wines. Renowned Gatt old Vine glorious Christmas cellar door and restaurant. The very Barossa Valley pudding-like varietal fruit with minty camphor-like Shiraz 2010 HHH essence of the Clare Valley. Very ripe and very edges. $350 flavoursome with sweet juicy fruit, lots of oak and hot alcohol. $100 Jester Hill Touchstone Granite Belt Shiraz 2010 HHH A fabulously complex spicy, licorice nose and warm, tannic and dark fruit palate. $155 SHIRAZ & BLENDS $200+ 8 TASTED 8 AWARDED “An awesome class of iconic wines,” enthused the judges. “Here Penfolds Grange Shiraz 2008 HHHHH we see delivery of Great concentration and harmonious, intense complexity here with wines with length and a big hit of super oak wonderfully balanced complexity but above by the powerful all - drinkability!” added savoury/licorice fruit one of the judging panel. and huge background of tannins. $899 Torbreck The Laird Shiraz 2010 HHHHH An amazingly powerful oak-driven style with a huge oaky lift to the nose and the palate showing great concentration of oak sitting on top of the Visit us at the Winestate Australia display at the spicy cherry varietal Hong Kong Wine & Spirits Fair 5-7 November 2015. fruit. $800 +61 (08) 8843 4311 | [email protected] | skillogalee.com.au 98 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015

v a r i e t a l t a s t i n g Henschke Hill of 3 oceans The Grace Shiraz Chairman Frankland 2010 HHHHH River Shiraz A very traditional style 2008 HHH1/2 of shiraz with a young, A simple and elegant vibrant and unctuous number with a subtle balance of good oak and integration between the fruit with the same on the oak and the sweet varietal palate and leading to firm fruit characters. $300 but ripe tannins. $850 Paul Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle France Shiraz Blend 2007 HHH A hint of Hessian bag- like European characters on the nose and a mature mushroomy palate. $400 Gralyn Estate Margaret River Shiraz Cabernet 2001 HHHHH “Lovely example of the great Aussie blend,” said one judge. It is still amazingly bright and alive for a 14-year-old and beautifully complex with a perfect, seamless palate. $350 STAR RATINGS HHHHH Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 151-152. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2015 W I N E S TAT E 99

67 TASTED 48 AWARDED S E M I L L O N & B L E N D S A varietal that has almost become Australia’s own, particularly in SEMILLON & Spring Mountain BEST the eastern states. Of all whites, arguably semillon ages best! Here BLENDS Hunter Valley VALUE Semillon BUYS we see a line-up that offers fresh and lively youthful examples, plus $15 TO $20 2012 HHHH Cut grass and snow complex aged beauties. 11 TASTED peas obvious on the 7 AWARDED nose. Palate almost sauvignon blanc-like with a core of long lively A touch more weight tropical flavours. SEMILLON & Warburn Estate and a bit more style 3-5 $18.95 BLENDS Premium Semillon and vibrancy from the Spring Mountain Sauvignon Blanc previous group. Worth UNDER $15 2014 HHH that couple of extra Hunter Valley VALUE BEST Semillon Aromas of lemons and BUYS 14 TASTED limes with a tropical lift dollars. The older wines 2013 HHH1/2 8 AWARDED and lots of fresh citrus holding up well. Subtle steely citrus flavours. $10 fragrances with slight floral nuances. Rich “Very good varietal lift Wyndham Estate and lively in the mouth. with good fruit and acid Bin 777 Semillon Stylish fruit and lots structure here,” agreed Sauvignon Blanc of acid. 3-5 2014 HHH $18.95 the judges. Floral and grassy on the nose with a refreshing Midnight’s Promise Taylors Promised zingy hit of citrus unwooded Hunter Land Semillon flavours. $12 Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH McGuigan Bin Flinty lift to the fruity Honeyed aromas with 9000 Hunter Valley nose with rich toasty musky hints and similar citrus flavours that characters echoed on Semillon 2014 HHH linger across the palate. Fragrances of limes and the juicy palate. Some citrus blossom and fresh $18 grippy tannins and tight vibrant grassy/lemon acidity. $12 A.C. Byrne & Co curd palate. $13.99 Spring Mountain Margaret River BEST yellowtail Semillon Semillon Sauvignon The Wine Society dA No. 1 VALUE Winemakers BUYS Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2014 HHH1/2 Society Premium Challenge Hunter 2014 HHH1/2 Herbal aromas with Selection Tyrrell’s Valley Semillon Nose is a mix of stone hints of green beans 2014 HHH and tropical fruits. Good and cut grass. Bright Semillon 2014 HHH A crisp lively style with Nose more fruity than varietal characters on and lively palate with zesty citrus characters, the palate with some refreshing tropical herbal with a lively citrus Midnight’s Promise slatey acidity and a long, palate showing subtle secondary development. flavours. $9.99 florals. $14.99 unwooded Hunter pleasant finish. $10 Jamieson’s Run Valley Semillon 3-5 $18.95 2013 HHHH1/2 Billy’s Shadow A toasty buttery nose Happs 1 Series Semillon Sauvignon that’s laced with lots of Very Particular Blanc 2014 HHH flinty citrus characters. Margaret River Citrus nose with a floral Nicely textured palate lift and a juicy palate has a tight citrus-like Semillon 2013 HHH Grassy herbal bouquet with subtle tropical entry and opens up to - soft and sweet in notes. $6 stonefruit-like flavours. the mouth with lots 3-5 $18 of cooked citrus characters. $17 MyattsField VALUE BEST Perth Hills BUYS Semillon 2013 HHH Youthful, vibrant and very stylish. Very refreshing with quite a lot of citrus characters. $18 100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2015