THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Wines of Victoria Barossa & Eden Valley 168 tasted 145 tasted &Chardonnay blends New Releases 145 tasted 147 tasted AN ACCIDENTAL SUCCESS STORY After a rocky start Berton Vineyards continues to go from strength to strength. March/April 2021 THE BRIGHTEST Vol 44 Issue 2 OF OUTLOOKS $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 MARISCO’S STEPS TO SECURE AND US $17.99 GBP £10.95 CONTROL THEIR DESTINY EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Chardonnay & Blends • Wines of Victoria • New Releases Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • Marlborough (NZ)
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TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a discount coupon to use on your wine purchase. When travelling next to the Margaret River Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine tasting experience, the centrepiece of which is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the only one of its kind in Australia and has been a consistent regional award winner in the annual Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards. Visit the website for more information on the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting experiences on offer. 200 Chapman Hill E Rd, Chapman Hill WA 6280 E: [email protected] P: 0448 531 399 W: www.whicherridge.com.au WhicherRidgeWines whicherridgewines Scan the QR code to watch our story video on YouTube
NO.306 MARCH/APRIL 2021 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd Wine Buying Guide International DAI Rubicon phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 5
contents MARCH/APRIL 2021 R E G U L A R S 10 Briefs 21 20 NZ Briefs 24 European Report with Sally Easton FEATURES 26 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley 28 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 16 AN ACCIDENTAL SUCCESS 30 Grapevine STORY 36 What’s it Worth? 81 Aftertaste Berton Vineyard's happens to be one of the top 20 wineries in W I N E TAST I N G S Australia and its ninth largest wine 21 THE BRIGHTEST OF OUTLOOKS exporter, an amazing achievement After enjoying global accolades 42 Wines of Victoria from a somewhat accidental 50 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley start, writes Nigel Hopkins. From with the brands of Oyster Bay 56 Chardonnay & Blends planned beginnings of a humble and Wither Hills, winemaker Brent 64 Marlborough, NZ little vineyard, this behemoth Marris turned his attentions to 70 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases keeps growing and producing taking on the challenge of creating outstanding results. his own winery from scratch. Thus, Marisco was born, named for the family's de Marisco ancestors, launching immediately successful brands such as The Ned, Leefield Station and The King's Series. Emma Jenkins MW explores the Marisco vision and their dreams for the future. 72 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20. 16 16 Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 306 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au March/April 2021. Cover image Natalia Klenova 6 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
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editorial AS YOU READ THIS MOST AUSTRALIAN AND NEW ZEALAND wine regions will be starting their vintage, be in the thick of it, or finished. Of course, this all depends on the location and the weather. For the southern regions a generally welcome series of rain events along with milder temperatures and fewer heat spikes were welcomed. Hopefully, this means the drought has broken, however as they say, “a swallow doesn’t make a summer”. We will have to wait and see. With export markets a problem many wineries have returned to Australia and as a result there are great deals everywhere for consumers. If you have not done so already now is the time to buy a few dozen to put away for further aging. At such a great price you will be helping yourself and the wineries. (Footnote; I did the same for lobster over the holidays – two for me and one for the country!) In this issue I am pleased to report that our wine reviews go on and on with our judging’s across regions and styles. Firstly, we had our annual Barossa and Eden Valley judging. This twin region is the darling of importers and has been the most affected by import tariffs, however lucky us it has meant we are seeing some brands that were previously not readily available. Overall red wine styles here are changing to a more approachable, less oak and high alcohol style, although the usual blockbusters are still around. The regions’ big advantage is that they have the flexibility of combining valley floor flavour with hilltop cooler climate finesse. We also showcase Berton Vineyards which had its beginnings in Eden Valley and the Barossa before growing into one of Australia’s bigger wineries, a great read by Nigel Hopkins. With Victoria shutting down for most of last year our usual trips to Melbourne to judge the Victorian wine regions was also put on hold. However, to keep the flag flying we decided nevertheless to do a scaled down Wines of Victoria judging using judges with winemaking or judging experience in Victoria. Our thanks to those wineries who submitted under trying times. For our featured New Zealand judging we visit the ever-popular Marlborough region, with New Zealand Editor Michael Cooper in charge. Always a pleasure! Chardonnay was our main style judging for this issue, and it is always a variety that offers a great contrast between the so-called Chablis leaner styles and the voluptuous rich and round so-called “Dolly Parton” styles. In this regard whatever floats your boat! Finally, we have our ever-prescient New Releases where all-comers are welcome. Here we always find a few gems that arrive early before they are snapped up when the word gets out. Whilst the inevitable consistent results for shiraz are again on display look out for some great grenache and alternative reds like tempranillo and sangiovese. Ironically, winemakers are beginning to understand that the latter should not be made like shiraz but have their own defined qualities where the fruit is allowed to shine. Once again, the message is “lots to taste and lots to like” so get out there and grab yourself a dozen or two. Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, our ports. Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Australia Major Sponsors and Supporters Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 9
briefs DINEEN MOVES ON Australians to give these underwater equines a temporary home while SIMS researchers work to rebuild their permanent, JEREMY Dineen, chief winemaker and general manager at Josef seagrass habitats. Chromy Wines in Tasmania for over 15 years, has announced his resignation. Dineen was employed by Chromy before the business All donations (less any transaction fees) go directly towards even launched, making the first wines in primitive conditions. He helped SIMS’ research projects with the aim to fully restore the make the Josef Chromy brand one of Tasmania's leading producers. seahorse’s natural habitats and give the creatures a fighting chance of avoiding extinction. Dineen said he hoped to, \"focus more on my own winemaking and consulting and hopefully spend some more time with my family\". “I’ve always been fascinated by the great work that SIMS does and I’m blown away by the innovative research they are doing to Tasmanian-born Dineen was hand-picked by Chromy to head his new restore the homes of these precious marine creatures,” Taylors operation in 2004 after shining at Hood Wines and Frogmore Creek. Wines third-generation winemaker and managing director Mitchell Taylor said. \"Steering the growth of Josef Chromy Wines from the purchase of the vineyard in 2004 has been an amazing experience and I “Seahorses, much like grapevines, are an indicator species will be eternally grateful to Joe for the opportunity and the trust he that raise the alarm to serious climate-related issues. It’s very placed in me,\" Dineen said. important we do what we can to reverse their population decline before it’s too late.” \"I believe I am leaving the business in a very strong position, with some great wines, strong brands and exciting plans for the next The Sydney seahorse is endemic to the east coast of Australia phase of growth and development. The outstanding team at Josef and is one of only two seahorses on the planet to be listed as an Chromy Wines will remain and they are all well placed to ensure endangered species. the continued success of the business. Their preferred homes, the underwater seagrass meadows known \"It has been a privilege to be a part of the Josef Chromy story and as posidonia australis, are declining at a rapid rate, like coral reefs. I have enjoyed, not just the achievements of the vineyard, winery and restaurant, but the strong relationships formed with so many The goal for the SeaBnB initiative is to raise $150,000 which will people during these years. enable SIMS to fully restore select areas of seagrass meadows that have been lost. In turn, this creates the opportunity to reintroduce a \"I wish all the Josef Chromy team the best for the future and I look herd of captive-raised seahorses to their natural habitat. forward to following their continued success.\" Donations of any denomination can be made at SeaBnB. Dineen plans to consult to wineries, as well as building on com.au or selected from the list of luxury SeaBnB seahorse the success of the Haddow and Dineen label with Bruny Island accommodation packages. cheesemaker Nick Haddow. The seahorse logo features on Taylors wines labels. To kick start the campaign, Taylors chipped in $10,000. TAYLORS HELPS SAVE THE SEAHORSE LUXURY GLAMPING A NEW chain of five-star hotels is set to open in Sydney Harbour - but THE Derwent Valley, north of Hobart, boasts several wineries and only guests of the seahorse variety will be staying. whisky distilleries, as well as an artisan brewery. Family-owned South Australian winery Taylors Wines has partnered It is also home to Truffle Lodge, Tasmania’s luxury bush glamping with the Sydney Institute of Marine Science (SIMS) to launch an destination. initiative to save the endangered White’s seahorse (or Sydney seahorse) from extinction. Known for its idyllic riverfront location and for being akin to a five- star hotel under canvas, Truffle Lodge’s luxury safari-style en-suite The SeaBnB campaign is a fundraising initiative calling on tents cater for every creature comfort and are naturally socially 10 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
briefs distanced – all eight tents are located right on the Derwent River. under the Burch Family Wines umbrella. Having been born in the Truffle Lodge guests can enjoy a range of eco-friendly outdoor Great Southern and having studied winemaking in Margaret River, I’ve always had a soft spot for West Australian wines. Returning activities within moments of stepping outside their tent – and even to the region is an amazing opportunity to immerse myself once spot platypus in the river. again and I am thrilled to be working alongside a valued and experienced team.” Each Truffle Lodge tent is double-walled and triple-roofed for maximum comfort and features a hand-made wooden bath, rain Burch Family Wines owner Jeff Burch says, “Nic’s passion and shower, extra-large and deep double beds, a coffee machine, tea- enthusiasm for sparkling wine stood out, but his broad skillset and making facilities, a bar fridge, and many more thoughtful touches. ability to make quality wines across the board will complement and build upon our knowledge that can only enhance our offering. He Breakfasts, drinks, and two-course evening meals are served in and Janice will make a formidable team.” Truffle Lodge’s communal areas. From $400 per couple per night including breakfast and dinner. Visit www.trufflelodge.com. Family owned and operated, Burch Family Wines produce Howard Park, MadFish, Marchand & Burch and Mon Tout and RISING STAR TO JOIN HOWARD PARK distribute Champagne marque Franck Bonville. The company is a member of Australia's First Families of Wine. HOWARD Park has added rising star Nic Bowen to its winemaking team as chief winemaker, starting with the 2021 vintage. TASMANIA MOURNS LEGENDARY WINEMAKER Much-awarded Janice McDonald will remain in a senior role at the Margaret River and Great Southern producer, being named as THE Tasmanian wine industry is mourning the death of influential director of winemaking. winemaker Peter Althaus. Born into a well-known West Australian winemaking family, Swiss-born Althaus, a former IBM executive, died at the age Bowen has spent the best part of 16 vintages honing his skills of 79, just two years after selling Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard to at prestigious wineries both in Australia and internationally. He Moorilla owner David Walsh. He ran Stoney Vineyard/Domaine A for is currently employed as the senior winemaker/manager for 30 years, establishing a stellar reputation for Bordeaux-style reds. Accolade’s flagship Tintara Winery, the home of winemaking for Hardys, Chateau Reynella, Leasingham and Yarra Burn. Along with his late wife, Ruth, Althaus saw potential in Tasmania as an ideal location and latitude to produce cool-climate wines and “I am extremely excited to be joining Howard Park; a great Western played a key role in Tasmania's emergence as a serious player Australia marque with family heritage at its heart,” Bowen says. in the wine industry. “I have great respect for the Burch family and the wines produced They purchased Stoney Vineyard, the oldest winery in the Coal River Valley, in 1989 from George and Priscilla Park, who planted the original single-acre 16 years earlier. Releasing their first wine in 1990, the Althauses continued to produce wines at the site until 2018 when they sold the winery to David Walsh and handed the reigns to Moorilla’s winemaker, Conor van der Reest. \"Domaine A is a remarkable brand we are proud and grateful to remain custodians of,\" the Domaine A team said. \"We will continue to honour his winemaking legacy in each bottle we produce.\" Althaus's death on January 2 resulted from a New Year's Eve fall in his native Switzerland. TRIO TAKEOVER FOX CREEK THREE wine industry friends and colleagues have snapped up McLaren Vale wine producer Fox Creek Wines. Ben Gibson, Jock Harvey and Dim Georgiadis are the trio of new owners. Gibson has held a broad cross section of wine industry roles over the last 20 years, including various director positions at Pernod Ricard and more recently as CEO of Clare Valley winery, Kirrihill Wines. Harvey, a wine industry stalwart, is best known as proprietor of March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 11
briefs Chalk Hill, while Georgiadis is a founder and director of business Cygnet is 40 minutes south of Hobart in the Huon Valley and development for the FABAL group of companies that specialise in is where Harry and Brooke Moses were co-founders of Pagan large scale agri-business and vineyard management. Cider. In early 2020 they turned their attention to distilling and plan to eventually produce a range of gins, vodkas, brandies and All three share a love of high-quality shiraz, grenache and whiskies in their home distillery in Cradoc, just out of town. They alternative varietals along with a passion for the McLaren Vale are off to a most impressive start after kicking off the business in region, the wines, the food, the environment and the local February 2020. community. \"We felt it was logical that our next step should be to start Port Fox Creek was established in 1984 by Helen and Dr. Jim Watts Cygnet Distillery and pursue a long-standing interest and passion following the purchase of the property on Malpas Road in McLaren for distilling,\" Harry Moses said. Vale and has won numerous domestic and international wine awards. \"I am proud to have one of Australia's smallest distilleries, using a 30-litre copper pot still, and making just 50 bottles per batch. Gibson, who will assume the role of CEO, said that they quickly The distillery is now our family business. realised the potential of Fox Creek with its rich soils, 1,200 tonne winery, 20 hectares of premium vineyards and historic cellar door \"My gins are intentionally heavy with botanicals, and consequently - all within a 46-hectare property. are rich, smooth, and elegant.\" “In spite of the hardships the wine industry has faced in the The distillery is zero waste excluding packaging (although current climate and pandemic, Jock, Dim and I immediately saw ceramic bottles made by local potter Ian Clare will be re-released the value in investing in such an iconic wine brand in McLaren soon). Cooling water is recycled, spent botanicals are composted, Vale,” Gibson said. cleaning products are all organic, compostable, and used for garden bed preparation and plant watering. “With Fox Creek located so close to our hometown of Willunga, Jock and I could not be happier to be reunited. In partnership with The current range includes Foundation Gin, Kaffir Lime Gin our great friend Dim, we embark on what will be an exciting new and Raspberry Vodka. The entire range is artisan-produced and chapter for Fox Creek Wines. beautifully presented - and a Cherry Vodka is on the way. “We have a shared passion for the local community, which will sit \"My grandfather on my Mum’s side created the Cherry Ripe foremost at the heart of the Fox Creek Wines philosophy.\" recipe when working for a Melbourne confectionary company, Harry Moses says. \"He then started his own company but obviously SMALL AND LOVELY didn’t have the rights to that product. For some reason cherries keep popping up in the family.\" THE Tasmanian cultural hub of Cygnet is known for its gourmet adventures, boutique wine producers and many artisan cafés and For details see www.cygnetdistillery.com.au/ galleries. It is now also home to what is believed to be the smallest boutique distillery on the island state - and possibly in Australia. ORLANDO BACK ON BOTTLESHOP SHELVES FAMOUS Australian wine brand Orlando is back on bottle shop shelves with two ranges, The Legends and The New Heroes. Under the hand of chief winemaker Ben Thoman, the new 12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
briefs Orlando portfolio features regionally focused wines that are modern Australian wines and include Cellar 13 2019 showcase the best expression of each varietal, including iconic Barossa Grenache, Printz Shed 2018 Northern Barossa Shiraz, wines Steingarten, Jacaranda Ridge and Lawson’s. Bungalow Lane 2014 Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon and Hilary 2019 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Established in 1874 by the Gramp family, Orlando was an Australian household name in the 1950s and 1960s and was NEW SHAPE FOR LIGHTER ECO LOAD recognised as one of the biggest producers of quality wine in Australia with over 1000 awards and accolades since records NEW ZEALAND wine range Round Theory comes in packaging began in the 1980s. very different in shape to any other 750ml wine bottle. The bottles are curvy, squat and clear. Orlando led Australian winemaking at pivotal times in history, challenging the status quo at a time when fortified wines The blurb is that that Round Theory has been \"consciously dominated the industry. crafted from the ground up to have as positive impact on the planet as possible\". “Orlando’s winemaking history, and the legendary name that comes with it, is founded on exploring new opportunities yet respecting What are Round Theory's ethical positives then? what’s already been discovered and proven,\" says Thoman. Its environment credentials include being climate positive thanks to its program with CarbonClick, which offsets at least double its \"I look forward to continuing this journey; maintaining the carbon emissions produced; those unique-shaped glass bottles legacy of the wines while creating new wines for Australians are 30% lighter, 35% shorter and made from clear glass for to fall in love with.” improved recyclability and to lower carbon footprint. All cartons are made from 100% recycled paper; with the back Orlando, now owned by Pernod Ricard, is releasing five and front labels made from FSC certified paper, which has been wines in The Legends range and four of the next generation harvested in a responsible manner. under The New Heroes. The Legends comprise Lawson’s And the grapes are sustainably grown and sourced from 2015 Padthaway Shiraz, Jacaranda Ridge 2015 Coonawarra Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ)-accredited Cabernet Sauvignon, Centenary Hill 2015 Barossa Shiraz, vineyards in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay. Plus, the wines are Steingarten 2019 Eden Valley Riesling and Lyndale 2018 certified vegan friendly. Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. The Orlando New Heroes wines Designed for wine lovers looking to make more environmentally friendly decisions, the Round Theory range features rosé, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and a white field blend. FREIXENET LAUNCHES STILL WINES FREIXENET has launched two new Italian still wines. Available exclusively through BWS and Dan Murphy’s, Freixenet Pinot Grigio and Italian Rosé feature a striking glass diamond cut bottle. Freixenet Pinot Grigio is made from grapes from the Garda DOC region in northern Italy, while Freixenet Italian Rosé is made from the I.G.T Veneto region. The two new Italian still wines complement Freixenet’s sparkling wines launched late last year featuring a prosecco and sparkling rosé. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 13
briefs COLES SUPPORTS SHINGLEBACK BIO- cultural tours and cruises caters to aficionados of art, culture, FRIENDLY WINES music, opera, ballet, gardens and food. Their point of difference is that their tours are all expert led by specialists in their fields e.g., FOLLOWING in the footsteps of Banrock Station, the team from archaeologists, opera experts, art experts, gardening experts etc. Shingleback in McLaren Vale has just launched its new \"The Bio Project\" range of wines for Coles. Not only that, but the tours also take people behind the scenes, often to places the general public can’t access. The tours generally The Bio Project, which has included 200 volunteers, represents comprise small intimate groups of like-minded people and the Yarra Shingleback's ongoing commitment to undertake native Valley tour visits standout wine producers including De Bortoli, revegetation within its Davey Estate vineyard. Shingleback is a Levantine Hill and Oakridge. single-estate, family-owned winery that controls all aspects of the winemaking process, from growing the fruit, to bottling the wines. For a full list of tours see https://renaissancetours.com.au/. Other tours, including Orange and Margaret River, are in the works. In conjunction with the McLaren Vale Biodiversity Group, a four-hectare wetland area has been planted with a selection of WORLD DOMINATION OF MOËT HENNESSY beneficial insect-attractive native plants. The trio comprises the 2019 The Bio Project Tempranillo Blend, the 2020 Bio Project MOËT HENNESSY rules the Champagne world, new data McLaren Vale Fiano and 2020 The Bio Project Monastrell Dry Rosé. released by Dutch company BoldData reveals. The data specialist gathered a list of the 100 most prominent Champagne No animal products were used in making any of the wines, houses - and lists them by annual revenue. which means they are all vegan friendly. The range retails for $25 a bottle at Vintage Cellars, Liquorland and First Choice The wines and spirits division of LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Liquor Markets. Hennessy) owns six iconic Champagne brands including Veuve Clicquot, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon. Moët & EXPERIENCE A RENAISSANCE Chandon is far and away the biggest Champagne house with 64.7 million bottles sold last year. Prices start at around €40 a DO YOU ever feel that you waste your holidays sitting by a bottle. Altogether, Moët Hennessy brands together make up an swimming pool? An increasing number of travellers are opting to annual revenue of €2.21 billion and a total of 2.485 employees. spend their time off learning more about their passions, be they wine, food, history, art or gardening. Vranken-Pommery Monopole is the second largest Champagne group, with a revenue of €218.8 million. The group Renaissance Tours, a leading operator of special interest and 14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
briefs owns five Champagne brands including Vranken, Demoiselle, In January 2021, Simon Tolley Wines opened their new Charles Lafitte 183, Pommery and Heidsieck & Co. Woodside cellar door. Tolley and his viticultural team, spent December 20 fighting spot fires, relocating livestock, and Next come the Champagne houses of Nicolas Feuillatte supporting their neighbours as best they could. (€211.9 million revenue) and Laurent Perrier (€206.2 million revenue). Then come Louis Roederer, Taittinger and Mumm. \"I tried to send the team home, but they wouldn’t leave,\" he Gosset - the oldest Champagne House - can only be found at recalls. \"They stayed to help us save our family home and as spot 33 on the list with an annual revenue of €23.7 million. For much of the vineyard as we could.\" more info see https://bolddata.nl/en/ The fire tore through 90% of the property, damaging fences, OUT OF THE ASHES irrigation, vineyard trellising, destroying 30% of the vines and rendering the 2020 vintage unsaleable due to the effects of FIFTEEN months ago, winemaker Simon Tolley was one of many smoke taint. victims of the ferocious Cudlee Creek fire in the Adelaide Hills. A tremendous amount of recovery work has been undertaken over the last 15 months. \"It has been a monumental effort,\" Tolley said. \"Across two of the most damaged vineyards we have pulled and replanted 3,500 vines, along with cutting back around 5,000 vines that are currently showing great signs of vigour.\" Despite the challenges of the previous year, Simon and Narelle Tolley have been busy executing their long-held ambition to create a home for their wine brand. Nestled among the beautiful hills of Woodside, Simon Tolley Wines opened the cellar door adjacent to award-winning luxury accommodation Simon Tolley Lodge. Initially, the cellar door will be open Thursday and Friday (11am-5pm) and Saturday and Sunday by appointment. \"We wanted to create a home for our wines, a space where people can relax and enjoy wine in the same way we like to enjoy it; it’s really an extension of our own home,” says Narelle. \"People can come to our cellar door for a tasting or a glass of wine, stay for a while and chat to Simon and me about our wines and the viticulture, while looking out over the beautiful vineyards.\" March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 15
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AN ACCIDENTAL SUCCESS STORY After a rocky start Berton Vineyards continues to go from strength to strength. NIGEL HOPKINS ALTHOUGH Bob Berton’s winery is now one of the top 20 wineries “It was, in fact, a disaster at first,” Berton says. By 1999 he and in Australia, and is its ninth largest wine exporter, he admits its Cherie had moved from the shed and caravan where they’d been growth over the past 25 years has been “all accidental”. living with their children into a new home, and he was working Berton Vineyards had its start in 1995 when Bob and his wife with Miranda Wines at Rowland Flat, to whom he was also selling Cherie bought just over 30ha of land in High Eden, a higher his grapes: “Life was generally beautiful,” he says. altitude sub-region of the Barossa Valley. For Griffith-born Berton, But then he had a call from a winery back in Griffith that was who’d had senior management roles with De Bortoli and Miranda, having problems and asked for his help. With a small group of it represented a chance to embark on a joint family project. partners he took over and focussed the business on exporting “We were in our mid-forties and realised we hadn’t done a lot wines that they’d bought and blended. By then the Berton’s family together,” he says. “The idea was to have a little vineyard and aim was to build their own small winery to process the 100 or live in the Adelaide Hills.” so tonnes of fruit from their High Eden vineyard. On the brink of It didn’t work out quite like that. They planted 4ha of shiraz doing just that in 2005, fate intervened. and three of chardonnay – since then there’s been plantings “Rosemount had bought Penfolds, who had a mothballed winery of cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc, bringing the total at Yenda, near Griffith,” Berton says. With three partners – Jamie planted to around 12.5ha. They had no water – still haven’t, with Bennett, Paul Bartholomaeus and James Ceccato – they formed a dry dam for the past three vintages – and had to rely initially Berton Vineyards as a company, which bought the Yenda winery. on water from neighbouring Mountadam. “Every now and then you reach a fork in the road,” Berton says, By the time they managed a first vintage the vines still looked describing the turn of events that took him from his dream of a like rootlings and a friend jokingly named it the bonsai vineyard small winery in the northern Adelaide Hills to one of Australia’s – a name that’s stuck and is now attached to Berton Vineyards largest based in the Riverina. “But we made it work.” top ranking shiraz. Suddenly Berton had a 20,000-tonne capacity winery which, March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 17
By the time they managed a first vintage the vines still looked like rootlings and a friend jokingly named it the bonsai vineyard – a name that’s stuck and is now attached to Berton Vineyards top ranking shiraz. in its first vintage in 2006, crushed 10,000 tonnes, much of it With the loss of China as an export market the company’s export contract processing for others. This year they’ll crush around vs. domestic balance has moved from 50:50 to 55 per cent 17,000 tonnes, some 40 per cent of that as contract processing. domestic sales and 45 per cent export. Despite this Berton That still leaves an awful lot of wine to market – some 12 million Vineyards domestic recognition is probably much smaller than bottles in 2019 - under the Berton Vineyards 35 or so labels, it deserves, partly due to Berton’s decision not to sell through including the original Bonsai Shiraz (retail around $40) and its the major retail chains but to stick with smaller independent “cornerstone wine” the Metal Label Black Shiraz (around $14). wine retailers. As well as impressing Winestate’s judges, Berton Vineyards “We’re relying on people discovering us,” he says. “We can’t has achieved terrific national and international recognition afford to spend millions on advertising, which would force us to with two trophies, six double gold medals and 35 gold medals make our wines more expensive. I just won’t do it. We’re going in 2019 alone. to be around for a while – and we’re patient. Although most of Berton Vineyards wines are at the relatively “What’s in the bottle is our priority. In our case, the marketers inexpensive end of the market they have been universally haven’t taken over. For us, it’s not just a product – it’s wine.” acknowledged as great value for money. “I want us to be the Will there be more forks in the road, more growth? best at any price point,” Berton says. “We don’t cut any corners “I think we’ve reached our proper size,” Berton says. “Currently in our winemaking.” 40 per cent of our business is other people’s labels. My goal Having built good export links very early in the piece, Berton now is to sell everything we make under our own label.” Vineyards continues to have a strong export focus, with particular strength in the UK as one of that country’s top four Previous Page 16: Berton Vineyard Bonsai Shiraz. on-premise wine suppliers (pre-COVID-19 that is). Berton says Above: The directors left to right, Jamie Bennett, James Ceccato and Bob Berton. they’re also “amazingly” strong in Russia, with “good listings” in Opposite page: High Eden vineyard, Bob and Cherie in the Berton warehouse and Scandinavia and a foothold in India, though still weak in the US. aerial view of Yenda winery. 18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
“I want us to be the best at any price point,” Berton says. “We don’t cut any corners in our winemaking.” March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 19
nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW WORST-CASE SCENARIO AVOIDED SJP AND INVIVO TO FEED SCHOOL KIDS THIS time last year the world plunged into uncertainty and whilst life INVIVO Wines is working with its Invivo X, SJP business partner, (at the time of press anyway!) is again feeling pretty normal in New actor Sarah Jessica Parker to fund more than 330,000 school meals Zealand, there’s no doubting the bigger picture remains precarious. for children around the world in partnership with FEED. Founded by With New Zealand’s wines strongly focused on export, the turmoil in George HW Bush’s granddaughter, Lauren Bush Lauren, FEED is a overseas markets has made predictions and planning even more of fashion/lifestyle brand that works towards ending global childhood a challenge than usual. As the initial impact of Covid-19 was playing hunger by providing school meals with every purchase made. The out, New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) revised its budgets to reflect an FEED Foundation will partner directly with Invivo X, SJP to fund anticipated 10% decrease in sales in the March-June 2020 and July school meals through FEED’s non-profit partners based on sales of 2020-January 2021 periods (they also prepared a ‘worst case scenario’ the 2020 vintage wines. The partnership furthers Parker’s previous budget based on a 25% over the same timeframe). Surprisingly, what charitable work as an active UNICEF campaign participant since has actually eventuated is a 6% increase in export sales March-June 1997, and via her work with the Food Bank in New York City. Invivo 2020 and July numbers showing a 23% increase on the previous year. cofounder Tim Lightbourne says, “This partnership is hugely Recently released Rabobank figures for Quarter 4 to August 2020 show important for us and gives our winery an opportunity to give back growth of exports increasing by 10.7% by volume and 9.7% by value in a positive way to those communities that are in need. We are also in comparison to the previous year’s same period. It appears that retail honoured to work with Lauren Bush Lauren who is so passionate and supermarket sales courtesy of rising home consumption have about FEED and the goal of ending child hunger around the world. more than filled the gaps left by the beleaguered hospitality sector. The The team at Invivo X, SJP will look to explore other opportunities bountiful 2020 vintage wines coming on stream boosted sales, a huge to support FEED as much as we can in the coming years.” So far, boon to wineries as the relatively meagre 2019 harvest meant stocks FEED has provided over 117 million meals to students in 63 countries were running low heading into 2020. As ever sauvignon blanc lead the around the world, working with existing community charitable charge, comprising 88% of exports - a 13% increase year-on-year – and organizations, a mission that is sadly more in need than ever. Lauren as the mainstay of bulk wine exports to the UK and Europe. In New Bush Lauren comments, “As a result of the pandemic, rates of food Zealand’s key export market, the United States, wine sales increased insecurity and hunger are meaningfully higher than they've been at 20% by value and 8% by volume during the first half of 2020. Though any point in the last two decades. The FEED Foundation is so proud this is all cause for celebration (or perhaps just relief?), digging into the to partner with Invivo Wines and Sarah Jessica Parker to help raise numbers delivers a more nuanced picture, with producers who were much-needed awareness for this issue and help fund school meal heavily focused on on-premise finding the economic situation a much programs that make a major difference in the lives of kids in need more volatile and difficult environment to navigate. Even producers who around the world.” have enjoyed flourishing sales are still hesitant in making predictions for the coming year. Global wine markets remain very much in a state CLOUDY BAY WINE CLUB of flux, impacted not only by the ongoing travails of Covid-19 but also geopolitical tensions and tariffs. NZW CEO Philip Gregan comments, MARLBOROUGH’S Cloudy Bay has launched its first ever wine “If you ask producers what they think about the future, their response club. For NZ$290 a quarter, The Pelorus Circle will deliver members is the same – ‘we have no idea’. While the signs to date are looking a 6-pack of current releases, museum wines and limited editions positive, every month is going to be critical going forward.” in a custom box designed by NZ artist Hannah Jensen. As well as the wine, members can expect a range of exclusive benefits WINE SELTZER HITS MARKET FOR VILLA including members’ events, special discounts and annual tours. MARIA Estate Director Yang Shen says, “We are very happy to be able to offer Cloudy Bay enthusiasts a way to explore our wines, meet VILLA MARIA ESTATE is continuing its long-established path of our team and hear our stories. If this year has taught us anything, innovation, launching what it claims is New Zealand’s first wine-based it’s about the value of community and this seems like the perfect seltzer drink. The LF Wine Seltzer wine comes from Villa Maria’s Hawke’s opportunity to build some new connections.” At this stage, the club Bay-based Leftfield label, in three flavours – yuzu, mint and cucumber is only available in New Zealand but Cloudy Bay expects to launch with sauvignon blanc, pear and ginger with pinot gris, and strawberry The Pelorus Circle in Australia towards the end of 2021. and hibiscus with rosé. It clocks in at 4.8% alcohol-by-volume and is sold in 4-packs of 250ml cans. With ready-to-drink (RTD) sales accounting for 27% of the country’s alcohol sales, the highest after beer, this is a bold foray into new and potentially lucrative, territory, given the clear consumer trend towards lighter drinks alongside their popularity with millennial drinkers, a category where wine has struggled to gain traction. In the US, 2019 figures show wine consumption dropping for the first time, while the volume of hard seltzers (alcoholic flavoured sparkling water) grew nearly 50%. In New Zealand, wine-based seltzers cannot be sold in supermarkets, limiting them to off-licenses and on-premise sales. 20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
THE BRIGHTEST OF OUTLOOKS MARISCO’S STEPS TO SECURE AND CONTROL THEIR DESTINY EMMA JENKINS MW BRENT Marris has never been one to do things by halves. The four daughters, the eldest of whom, Emma, is winemaker at man who once answered an interview question about his state of Marisco running the Leefield Station winery (another daughter mind being, “energised, excited, buoyant and upbeat” seldom Georgia is part of the marketing team whilst the younger two are seems to have a different setting. From his early years as the still studying at university). Brent says, “It is about controlling son of one of Marlborough’s earliest contract grapegrowers, via our destiny”. a winemaking qualification at Roseworthy Agricultural College, Brent first became known in the industry for developing the In 2003, they purchased a 260ha vineyard in Marlborough’s Oyster Bay brand whilst Chief Winemaker at Delegat’s, and Waihopai Valley, planting three-quarters in sauvignon blanc then as the driving force behind Wither Hills, which eventually plus pinot gris and a few small pockets of chardonnay and sold to Lion Nathan in 2002 for NZ$52 million. At this point, viognier. A stylish river hut was then nestled alongside the early retirement would have tempted many, but instead Brent Waihopai River, allowing Marisco to host guests in an idyllic threw himself into developing another winery and brand from setting. This vineyard and its onsite winery supply The Ned and scratch – Marisco. Named for the Marris family’s de Marisco The King’s Series brands, launched in 2006. The immediate ancestors, it is very much a family-focused undertaking. Brent success of these wines exceeded even Brent’s expectations and his wife Rosemary, who is chair of the board, view Marisco and it was soon clear they needed more fruit. Suitable bare as a way of cementing the Marris winegrowing heritage for their land is now rare in Marlborough and Brent was open to buying an existing vineyard but when a 2200ha sheep and beef farm, March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 21
The immediate success of these wines exceeded even Brent’s expectations and it was soon clear they needed more fruit. Leefield Station, came on the market, he moved fast. Brent saw the farm as “a prime viticultural site because of its position within a glacial valley filled with mineral rich soil and beautiful rolling foothills,” and conveniently it was just a bit further up the Waihopai Valley road from the existing vineyard and winery. Leefield Station is a beautiful piece of land in its own right and its purchase allowed Brent, Rosemary and their daughters considerable scope to ramp up the Marisco vision. Around 100ha of vines have been planted so far, with the eventual goal of 650ha in production, and the Leefield Station and The Craft Series brands developed. A new winery received its first fruit in the 2020 harvest and the farm’s original 150-year- old woolshed underwent a careful restoration, serving as an atmospheric space for dinners and events. The past two years have seen the development of ‘The Village’, a collection of communal buildings reminiscent of a traditional farm hub, including a dining hall and village green. Leefield Station remains a working farm, registered as an Angus cattle breeder, running Romney and Hampshire sheep and undertaking a new project with Berkshire pigs. Brent has worked with the farm manager to improve water and feed supplies, fencing and shelter plantings and they have established a huge dam landscaped as a lake. When finished, there will be some 200ha of parkland and streams, 1000ha of stocked hillsides and 300ha of native bush - not only a sophisticated and sustainable farm ecosystem but also a unique wine tourism experience. 22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
Marisco exports around 80% of its production and the intent Just released is Marisco’s first sparkling wine, a vintage is to give international guests a New Zealand farm as well as methode traditionnelle named ‘Diamond Heart’, made in tribute vineyard experience. “Our guests will taste what is grown on to Rosemary Marris. Wilson comments that the approach behind the property – Angus, Romney, walnuts, honey and the game, all of Marisco’s wines is to “work with a boutique philosophy, but such as deer and goats. We will take them to our river hut or at scale,” adding, “If Brent does something, he likes to do it well”. the woolshed, or up to the lake, and cook for them with food That’s no understatement – Marisco started out with 2,000 cases that is grown on the property, over a fire under 120-year-old in 2006 and is now running closer to 1 million cases per annum. gum trees. They will take Leefield-branded woollen clothing Brent says, “Controlling the land and the winemaking gives us home with them.” And of course, enjoy plenty of Marisco wines the point of difference. If we need to grow the brand we won’t be alongside it all. buying bulk wine or dialling up growers. We will be buying more land.” Driven by Brent’s boundless energy and ambition, the Marris Siobhan Wilson, Marisco GM for Sales and Marketing, explains family destiny looks to be shaping up well. that the four Marisco brands are carefully differentiated. The Ned (distributed in Australia exclusively through Coles), provides a Page 21: Waihopai Vineyard. quintessential expression of Marlborough fruit. “The Ned has been Opposite page: Brent Marris and a selection of Marisco wines. a powerhouse,” she says, surpassing all projections and to their Top left to right top to bottom: Leefield Station landscape, Leefield Station entrance, surprise, they now sell more pinot gris and rosé on the domestic Harvest at BenMorven, Waihopai with Leefield in background. market than sauvignon blanc. In the Australian market the rosé has been particularly popular, and demand continues to increase. The King’s Series is about “celebrating the Marisco ancestry, with winemakers drawing fruit from across the vineyards to achieve a style that is complex and works with food”. The Leefield Station range is focused on the on-premise market, and the wines highlight their variety’s relationship with a particular vineyard’s soil and microclimate, whilst the more recently released Craft Series is the beginning of the winemaking team identifying particular pockets of fruit to keep separate and showcase. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 23
europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW HOPE ON THE HORIZON THE year 2020 will long be remembered and Spain were down on their five-year crop. Only in a few regions did high summer for Covid-19. But grapes still grew. averages, which, in the light of Covid-19 heat help to reduce crop size. Reports Weather writ its effects. Wine was still and its economic effects, was probably of high quality abound, so were it not for produced. Europe had none of Australia’s advantageous for the three countries that Covid-19 induced crop reduction support rampantly destructive bushfires, but the together produce half the world’s wine. measures, Europe might have been continent produced lower than average Other significant producers, such as applauding both high quality and greater volumes anyway, despite generally Germany, Portugal and Hungary were in volume in many regions. favourable climate conditions. It might line with or above their five-year averages. have been a bigger crop. In Europe and outside of the EU, Russia is But governments have needed to a sizeable producer (making less than half support struggling industries, and the Starting with global wine production wine industry is no different. Some for 2020: it is estimated, by the OIV Top three producers countries, notably the big three - Italy, (the International Organisation of Vine France, Spain - introduced measures to and Wine, a scientific and technical Italy, France and Spain limit some appellation maximum permitted inter-governmental body working with yields in 2020 owing to falling demand, vine-based products, including wine, were down on their five- combined with the huge uncertainty driven table grapes, raisins, vinegar) at about by the pandemic. EU emergency funds 258 million hectolitres (mhl). This is 4% year averages, which, in have been available for green harvesting lower than the 10-year global average, to reduce the yield in 2020 (removing meaning 2020 global production is a bit the light of Covid-19 and unripe bunches to leave fewer bunches less than long term global output. Given to ripen). As an example, the Champagne the downward effect on consumption, at its economic effects, was interprofessional trade association, set the global level, of a pandemic year, this a maximum yield about 20% below the is probably not such a bad thing. probably advantageous region’s medium-term average, despite the quality of the fruit being reported European harvests (August to October) for the three countries as generally very high, though the hot occurred largely during a period of reprieve summer took the edge of acidity levels. from Covid-19 spread, i.e., not under that together produce Champagne sales are notoriously closely lockdown. And many harvests started early linked with economic trends, and for 2020, after warm spring temperatures kick started half the world’s wine. the organisation predicted a decrease in the growing season, and high summer sales of nearly a third. temperatures maintained the pace. But the volume of Australia) and production by mid-September the second wave of there was a tiny bit bigger than in 2019. Other EU funds were made available for rapidly-rising infections was beginning, In volume terms, then, there is nothing additional bulk wine storage, to free up with Spain appearing to lead Europe’s rate. particularly remarkable to report for Europe. existing storage for the incoming 2020 Pickers needed negative Covid-19 tests vintage, and for emergency distillation and personal-use only equipment. In Spain, What is more worthy of remark is that programmes, which remove from the partial lockdowns began in early October. these volumes have been achieved, in system some bulk overstocks of unsold part, with EU and national financial support wine. While not directly affecting the European wine production or more packages. Climate and weather conditions 2020 vintage, these have been important specifically the EU (because the OIV sub- in 2020 were largely favourable, which additional crisis support measures and total data at the EU level) was 159mhl in might typically also mean a high volume have allowed much of the fresh 2020 crop 2020, up about 5% on the smallish 2019 to be brought in. harvest. Top three producers Italy, France 24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. In France, harvests started early for when it has been possible to make eiswein Winestate Magazine several regions after warmer than usual (icewine) across several of Germany’s wine- @WinestateEd spring temperatures - the second warmest producing regions. To make this style, a few in 120 years, according to France’s rows of vines are left unharvested, in the Agriculture Ministry. hope that below freezing conditions occur, meaning frozen bunches can be harvested. Often frost-prone region Chablis In a climate-heating world, this intensely benefited from this, with only the most concentrated, sweet wine is becoming frost-prone plots getting frosted. After increasingly rare, though typically, for now a hot, dry summer, healthy fruit was at least, a few producers somewhere in the harvested 2-3 weeks’ earlier than their disparate wine growing regions, manage medium term average. The region’s trade to make some, in frost pockets or at higher association has declared Chablis 2020 as elevations. Increasingly, icy conditions ‘quality, and classic’. arrive only in January or February, but an icy overnight at the end of November gave A rainy winter restored much of Italy’s soil the right conditions. moisture reserves, setting up an optimistic start to the growing season. Reports from Eiswein production needs healthy grapes across this 1,000 kilometre-long country to freeze on the vines. Healthy grapes were are of a very fine quality harvest, from not a problem in 2020. Then, temperatures aromatic whites in north east Italy, to richly must be -7ºC or below to freeze water in coloured reds with fine tannin ripeness in the berries. Harvesters are typically woken central (Tuscany) and southern regions, from their slumber to hand harvest under including Sicily. Though good quality in floodlights in the early hours before sunrise. central and south Italy came at a cost Immediate pressing of the grapes releases of a fifth less volume owing to a dry, hot concentrated flavours, aromas, sugars, August and September which reduced the acid, while frozen water and skins remain size of berries. in the press. Yields are obviously tiny. And the risks involved - animals eating the fruit, Spain, as elsewhere, used emergency disease taking hold, cold temperature not funds to green harvest (reduce) a generally arriving at all - combine to make this an good-looking quality crop. Spring expensive specialty. outbreaks of rot in Galicia, north-west Spain (albarino from Rias Baixas), and Quirkily, if the freeze does arrive only in Catalunya, north-east Spain (e.g. Cava), January or February, the wine’s vintage is were exceptions, though the dry summer dated the previous - i.e. the growing - year. that followed generally provided healthy So, if there is any fruit still left on vines that fruit for harvest. Nationally, balancing freezes, and is harvested, in Jan/Feb 2021 unsold stocks, uncertain demand, and the wine will be bottled as 2020. what initially looked like a harvest volume more than 10% higher than 2019, meant that these measures were needed. The favourable growing conditions notwithstanding, 2020 has been a vintage March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 25
winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY 40 TIPS AND TRICKS WHEN PURCHASING, STORING AND SERVING WINE OCCASIONALLY I see some sadly stopper, yet. Wines under cork do and turn them every six months so the neglected wine in bottle shops, mature quicker and therefore can be sediment doesn’t start sticking to one restaurants and in people’s homes. enjoyed earlier. 7. At cellar door, I’ve side of the bottle. 13. Keep your labels Bottles that have oxidised due to often observed the ‘estate’ bottled wine intact. If you intend on selling them, mishandling, or simply left too long. So is a better well-balanced wine than the damaged labels can affect the price. 14. here are some guidelines, tips and tricks ‘reserve’ or premium label. 8. The final If you are a big collector ensure your wine that might help to save these gems. Some tip to purchasing should be left to the cellar has a balanced selection of red of these may be simple and common legendary winemaker Jack Mann who and whites, accommodate other people’s sense but others, I hope, will increase said a wine “should be Glowing with likes and not only your own, part of the joy your enjoyment of wine. There is also life, Blessed with refinement, Adorned is giving! 15. The most common mistake some old-fashioned etiquettes thrown in with flavour”. in cellaring wines is to keep wine too for good measure. long. Age is no guarantee of quality.16. Some of these may be Consider dividing your cellar into every Let’s start off with purchasing. 1. day, weekend, special occasion wines Check the label and think twice about simple and common and mark them so other people know purchasing that 15% abv (plus) wine. what they are picking! High alcohol doesn’t add aroma and sense but others, I flavour. 2. Look out for darker coloured Serving wine is littered with dos and oxidised white wines in bottle-shops, hope, will increase your don’ts such as, 17. Don’t serve white don’t buy the one on show which is wine too chilled. You really miss out on exposed to more light and heat, take the enjoyment of wine. the complexity of the more full-bodied back shelf one. 3. Whilst looking, search wines if they are too cold. 18. Aromatics the back of shelves for older vintages Now some views on cellaring. 9. Whilst can be served colder (8 to 10 degrees) of a red wine that’s been forgotten, a 15˚ Centigrade is consider ideal, it’s often but oaked wines like chardonnay should little age on most reds can only improve impossible to achieve without the aid of a be served at 12 degrees. 19. Red wines them (as long as the vintage is good). wine cabinet. So, try for below 20˚C and can be too warm in Australian summers 4. Scrutinise medals on bottles, inspect achieve a constant temperature, it’s the so they may need slightly chilling in the which wine show/judging they won fluctuation that does a lot of the damage. fridge to come down to a normal room their trophies or medals. Generally, a 10. Store screw top bottles standing up. temperature. In a survey conducted by silver or bronze medal means it is well- 11. Watch the humidity levels (70% is Taylors Wines in 2018 around 100 people made, but not remarkable. Check out ideal) too much and the labels will rot, too were served two glasses of Taylors Estate Winestate’s guide to medals on page little the labels may drop off and/or the Shiraz served at two temperatures - 35. Inspect the screwcap for damage. A cork will dry out. 12. Inspect the bottles one at room temperature (24ºC) and dint in the seal can result in a damaged one at 17ºC. 71% preferred the chilled oxidised wine. 6. Cork is not an outdated sample and said they would pay more 26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
Perfectly balanced. for it. 20.There are some reds that are exposed. 32. Always wipe dry a bottle DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, better slightly chilled, say at 12-14˚C. which has been sitting in an ice bucket yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. These include some fruit driven young before your pour it, otherwise it may slip pinot noirs and gamays (Beaujolais). out of your hands. 33. Pour Champagne Our bold service offering is built on 21. When holding a wine glass use the by inserting your thumb in the punt and a full-bodied foundation of vast stem or foot of the glass, never the bowl hold at the base in one hand, but only do general commercial experience, yet (unless it is a stemless glass, then you it if you are confident and won’t drop it! overlaid with distinctive specialist have no choice). 22. Decant young wines 34. Don’t touch the rim of the glass with expertise in a number of key to aerate them and allow the aromas to the bottle, pour the wine an inch above industries and niche market develop. 23. Decant old wines to remove the glass and give a slight twist of the sectors. the sediment as well as allowing them wrist to avoid a drip. Have a service to breath. 24. Leave the bottle standing cloth/napkin ready in case that doesn’t It’s a winning combination that up for a day to make decanting easier. work. 35. Pouring sparkling wines in two allows every client who opens a 25. A decanter can be any old, plain goes, pour half a glass first and let it rest, “case” to get exactly what they (clean) jug. Some expensive decanters then top up. 36. Try cleaning stubborn need. So whatever your business are simply impractical. 26. Always smell stained glasses and decanters with a or legal objectives, don’t hesitate a clean glass before you pour wine into Steradent tablet and then rinse them. to contact us. it to ensure there are no odours. 27. If 37. Never leave glasses in a sink, it’s an it is a cork bottle cut the foil on a bottle accident waiting to happen. 38. Inspect At DW Fox Tucker, every neatly. 28. There are many expensive glasses for chips before polishing them client matters. ‘toys’ that open bottles, I still regard a and always protect your hands with a genuine Pulltaps (made in Barcelona) cloth when polishing. 39. A sensible L14, 100 King William Street as the best and most reliable opener. sized set of glasses with a tapered bowl Adelaide SA 5000 Watch out for cheap imitations. 29. If the is better than a huge monster of a glass p: +61 8 8124 1811 cork breaks or the cork is saturated and that will only result in an odd set when liable to crumble due to age use an Ah-so one or more gets smashed. 40. Finally e: [email protected] opener. One of these tools should be in enjoy wine with friends, failing that, buy dwfoxtucker.com.au your arsenal. 30. If you cannot budge a a Coravin and enjoy your best bottles champagne cork then use a pair of plyers glass by glass whilst meditating. COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES or nut crackers, remember never twist the ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY cork as it will snap. If it does then use your Pulltaps to extract the remaining INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY cork. 31. Pour a wine by holding the RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES lower third of the bottle with the label SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS COMPENSATION March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 27 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING HOP ON - A ROAD TRIP TO SOME OF AUSTRALIA'S BEST REGIONAL BREWERIES AUSTRALIA is awash with regional undertones. Other top brews include East Coast IPA with Hibiscus Flavours. If breweries. A road trip using all of a three- Mudgee Pale Ale, Mudgee Wheat, Black you book a stay at the Brewer's Cottage, month long service leave entitlement IPA and Smokey Red, a hoppy red ale you can join the brewers for Friday would probably barely scratch the with a smoky whisky overtone. afternoon drinks. surface. But there's no need to follow the same plan as the main character in Also, in the heart of another region Wilkadene Station in Murtho boasts South the SBS post-apocalyptic comedy, The more noted for its wine - the Mornington Australia's only brewery with a Murray River Last Man on Earth, who journeys through Peninsula - Red Hill Brewery even offers view - the Woolshed Brewery. It's also the every state in the US looking for fellow smartly upscale accommodation. The Riverland's first and only brewery. As at Red survivors of a global virus pandemic, to three-bedroom Brewer's Cottage is just Hill, the plush accommodation is a major get a taste of the joys of beer tourism. a few seconds walk from the brewery drawcard. Wilkadene Cottage has three and features a gourmet kitchen to cook queen bedrooms, a tennis court, wood fire Most people think of grapes when talk up the produce from local providores, heater and sleek kitchen set amid three turns to Mudgee. But the NSW wine an open fire, barbeque area and a acres of verdant gardens. Or why not book region has plenty of beer brewing cred. one of the three luxury houseboats - the Crossings Brewery set up shop in 1853 Most people think Amazon Star, Outback Star and Elly Mae - and 30 years later the Federal Brewery which rightfully live up to the claim of having opened. The company's brews were of grapes when talk the comforts of a 5-star hotel. popular in Sydney and Melbourne and sent to Aussie troops during World War turns to Mudgee. But The Woolshed Brewery is located in a II before the brewery closed in 1956. 100-year-old shearing shed, where \"friendly, Mudgee Mud was the brand's signature the NSW wine region well-behaved dogs are welcome\". Take beer and the legacy of the Imperial Stout in panoramic views of the Murray as you lives on at the Mudgee Brewing Company has plenty of beer enjoy a Summer Ale, an Australian Blonde on Church Street. Ale, Amazon Ale or Judas the Dark, a brewing cred. true Aussie dark ale flavoured with roast Gary Leonard is in charge of the brewery, wattleseed. There are also some trendy housed in a century-old former wool store kids' playground. Billing itself as the choices such as Hard Lemonade and formerly owned by the Anglican church. Mornington's original micro-brewery, Red Rude Ruby, a refreshing grape and ruby Food is a major focus from the gourmet Hill Brewery also offers great burgers grapefruit blend. pizzas to mains such as crispy pork belly such as the Korean fried chicken burger with fried potatoes and greens in Mudgee and the haloumi burger. The tagline of Matso's Brewery is Mud syrup and IPA and Honey Beef Ribs irresistible - Escape the Ordinary - and it with corn bean salad. The farmhouse-style cellar door serves certainly lives up to the idea in its self-styled up a wide range of core beers and role as \"Australia's most remote brewery Even if you are a lager fan, it's a seasonal specials, including Kolsch since 1997\". Located in Broome in WA, good idea to take a sip or two of the Golden Ale, Scotch Ale Wee Heavy and there's no argument there. But being away new generation Mudgee Mud - rich from it all has sparked creativity, rather than and smooth with aniseed and licorice dampened it. 28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. Martin and Kim Peirson-Jones took over shop in 2006, but their expertise dates Winestate Magazine the brewery in 2000 and have become back to the mid-90s when Brennan @WinestateEd major spruikers of their unbeatable signed up for his first professional surroundings. The custom-designed brewing job in Hawaii. The couple went brewery in the old Union Bank building on to become partners in Brew Moon in also dishes up great food from breakfast to Waikiki before moving to the Gold Coast dinner, starting with early morning delights in the early Noughties. such as khichari and grilled salmon with quinoa and avocado to Kimberley Kebabs, Burleigh Brewing has won 27 world crocodile and kangaroo skewers, roti gold medals for their craft brews and bread, mint coriander chutney and sour Brennan can take you through a two- cream chili dip. hour, all-access tour of the state-of- the-art brewery for only $50. At the Everything Matso's does reflects Taphouse, Burleigh Eats by The Oak Cafe Broome's tropical setting and multicultural provides the food with suggested beer history. Take in the great views over accompaniments from open chicken Roebuck Bay as you drink a chili ginger gyros with Burleigh Blonde Lager to the or mango beer or hard lemon, orange, Cubano Sandwich with Burleigh Twisted melon and berry. Brewery exclusives Palm Tropical Pale Ale. Other brews to include Hit the Toad, a crisp lager sample include the 28 Pale Ale, Black inspired by the battle against the cane Giraffe Black Coffee Lager, Fig Jam IPA toad, the biggest threat to local wildlife, and Mid-Tide, a 3% ABV ale if you are and Bishop's Best, a Bavarian dark lager limiting your alcohol intake. with caramel, toffee and coffee overtones and a bitter finish. Across the road, you can stay in the Moonlight Bay Suites, which is operated by Martin and Kim and close to the town's shops and key attractions like the Pearl Luggers and the historic Sun Picture Theatre. Book one of the one-to- two-bedroom apartments with views over Roebuck Bay and enjoy a treatment at the on-site spa - Coco Beauty Broome. If you are holidaying on the Gold Coast, make time for a trip to Burleigh Brewing Co. Brennan and Peta Fielding set up March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 29
adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS THE sun is certainly shining on Sol, the downstairs will be happy. But for the diners and fish and chips, even a few non-seafood restaurant and bar recently opened on the top upstairs, it’s a win-win deal. Sol, Level 9, dishes, although that rather misses the of SkyCity Adelaide’s $330 million expansion SkyCity Adelaide, North Terrace, Adelaide. point of being here. Far more interesting are that includes the Eos hotel and eventually Open for lunch and dinner daily. Phone (08) starter dishes such as a selection of raw fish four new restaurants and two new bars. It’s 7077 3960. served either sashimi style with fresh wasabi more than just a major boost to the city’s and pickled ginger, or crudo-style with baby hospitality industry: Sol, at nine stories high, Fishbank is, without doubt, the grandest fennel, ruby grapefruit and mandarin oil. has gone to the top not just geographically restaurant dining room in Adelaide, and but also gastronomically in the hands of its now it has a food and wine offering that While Carroll enjoys serving up lesser- relatively young chef Kane Pollard. lives up to its surroundings. known fish such as snook and boar fish, he says everyone wants to try the Murray cod, Pollard was raised in a local market It began life as the main banking chamber served pan-seared with Sichuan eggplant gardening family, where he learned much of the Bank of NSW, the current building and black vinegar. Just as irresistible are the about produce and sustainability, then having been built during World War II. wok-fried Goolwa pippis in a stunning nduja worked in several Adelaide restaurants before It remained occupied by the bank, now and tomato sauce. Fishbank, 2 King William heading to South East Asia and Europe for Westpac, until 2007 and it sat empty and Street, Adelaide. Open daily for lunch and more experience. On return to Adelaide, he unloved until in 2013 heritage architects dinner. Phone (08) 8310 0120. and his family opened Topiary, transforming were engaged to restore the six-storey a former teahouse into a unique restaurant building with offices, two restaurants and Top: Interior of Fishbank restaurant. attached to a plant nursery. a rooftop bar. Middle: Pippies from Fishbank restaurant. Bottom: Kinkawooka mussels from Sol restaurant. SkyCity resisted the temptation to hire a big- Jamie’s Italian took the ground floor name international chef for its new flagship space in the grand banking chamber, while restaurant and went for the local boy instead. 2KW and its adjoining bar went upstairs to And, boy, what a good choice that was. the roof. When Jamie’s globally hit problems, taking the local Jamie’s Italian with it, the With massive floor to ceiling windows space was reclaimed by the building’s and expansive views to the north and east owners – who also operate 2KW – and of the city, Sol is an impressive location, underwent a further transformation before while Pollard’s cooking is not just interesting being relaunched as Fishbank late in 2020. and original but practical and well thought out. His dishes are not just beautiful: his It has long been a wonder that Adelaide understanding of flavours and textures and hasn’t had more serious-minded seafood how to put them together really puts him restaurants, given the abundance of great in a rare class. He also takes the locavore seafood to which it has access. Fishbank has concept seriously, sourcing most if not all taken up the challenge and it has the right of his produce locally. executive chef to do the job in Tony Carroll, who for many years built a great reputation at Options are for a four or seven course dinner Jolley’s Boathouse. menu, with matched wine a further option, with shorter versions at lunch. The four-course Despite the imposing Art Deco influenced menu is likely to start with several amuse- surroundings, with five massive chandeliers bouche type dishes – perhaps Kinkawooka overhead, a vast marble-fronted oyster bar mussels in an edible “mussel” shell or a frozen and expansive parquetry floors, Fishbank is plum filled with chicken liver parfait. neither intimidating nor necessarily expensive, though of course it can be – especially if you Of the larger courses, dishes such as head to the caviar section of the menu. slivers of chargrilled squid, with a subtle hint of chilli oil, with pickled kohlrabi on top Carroll is determined that all tastes and and avocado puree below are sensationally pockets should be catered for, so his menu good. So, too, the trio of oyster mushrooms includes dishes such as a Fishbank burger – in tempura batter with pink peppercorns, marinated in mushroom stock and grilled, and also raw; and the lamb shoulder, shredded and pressed into a tiny brick that’s then chargrilled and served with labne and carrot puree. All quite brilliant. Eventually, Sol will have access to a nearly completed 7500 bottle master cellar, heavily focussed on South Australian wines, so even the most successful punter from 30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS AS we start the new year somewhat Lucciola, helmed by chef Francesco (a Butter Chicken Waffle which brings dispiritedly in Hong Kong, with Gava. Hearty classics feature on the together the flavours of West Bengal) restaurants closed after 6.00pm unless menu with highlights including the with an American classic, the Apple for takeaway purposes only, there are 24-hour braised Piedmontese veal Crumble Pound Cake and, of course, some resolute souls who have still shank, whole sea bream baked in a sea the Hong Kong (a luncheon meat and decided to go ahead and open new salt crust and the creamy La Burrata rice Scotch egg). Passepartout Brunch places with the optimistic, long term Pugliese. When it comes to pasta, the & Coffee, Shop 2, G/F, 447-449, Lockhart view that this can’t last forever (can it?). Spaghetti – a Gava family favourite that Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; has been perfected over generations – phone +852 2882 0828. So for those able to have an extended is not to be missed. As for dessert, it’s lunch break while working from home or already been put out there that Lucciola’s Top: Delicious food from OBP restaurant. the office, or who fancy taking up some tiramisu is up there as one of the best in Middle: Pasta from Lucciola restaurant. of their annual leave to really make an Hong Kong. Lucciola Restaurant & Bar, Bottom: Desserts from Passeporte restaurant. afternoon of it with a cocktail or 12, here 1/F, The Hari Hong Kong, 330 Lockhart are some of the newest restaurants in Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; phone Hong Kong who have bravely opened +852 2129 0333 or visit lucciola@thehari. their doors this month. com, www.thehari.com. New in from the team behind achingly Brunch your way around the world cool Mexican joint, 11 Westside, is OBP this month, courtesy of new Causeway – a Korean “sool-jip”, or alcohol house, Bay addition Passepartout Brunch & where cocktails and the ubiquitous Coffee. Describing itself as a ‘creative ‘sharing plates’ are pretty much what international brunch restaurant’, the happens. Hidden in an alleyway behind menu spans the globe, offering quite Old Bailey Street, OBP fills the void an eclectic array of fusion dishes, each left by Soho favourite Jinjuu and is a named after the cities they represent. welcome addition for Hongkonkers who Highlights include the signature Calcutta have a permanent hankering for Korean food. In the kitchen, Chef Junwoo Choi offers inventive yet traditionally inspired dishes, including the likes of Spicy Braised Pork Rib, Kimchi Pancake and Boneless Fried Chicken. Behind the bar you’ll find Beverage Director, Daniel Eun, mixing up a range of cocktails of which the Dokdo (Sour Apple) Gimlet, featuring Korean sake - is wonderfully refreshing after a meat-laden lunch. OBP, 3-5 Old Bailey Street, Central, Hong Kong. New luxury hotel, The Hari, quietly opened its doors at the end of last year offering two new high end restaurants to try if anyone is of a mind to try a weekend staycation (as we won’t be going anywhere for the foreseeable). First up is charming Italian hotspot March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 31
brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL LAST year as Brisbane diners watched There is one desser t on offer, a classics like garlicky escargot, souffle restaurant doors temporarily close from Campari soft serve, with grapefruit on au chevre and salad nicoise all make the safety of their lockdown bunkers, one occasion, is deliciously weightless an appearance alongside the Alsatian pining for the day life would return to and a savoury/sweet finish to a light but classics, a range of tarte flambee, a some form of normality, some of those flavour packed meal. non-yeasted tart base topped with onion doors were destined to remain closed. bacon and gruyere, a ratatouille-style There are 12 wines to choose from and eggplant, peppers and zucchini and the The most high profile to bid farewell a short list of cocktails - aperol spritz, Provencale, topped with white anchovies, to the sunshine state was Stokehouse Americano and an aeropress negroni - tomato and olives. Q, the northern relative of Melbourne’s makes you wonder why anyone could lauded Stokehouse in St Kilda. The possibly want any more in an aperitif They’re also available at night when the purpose-built venue, on a commanding line up. menu also offers two and three-course reach of the river at South Bank, was a set menus for $58 and $72 respectively. popular restaurant, bar and event venue With just ten seats inside and forty and left a gaping hole in the upper end out on the terrace the venue is just as Le Coin is the sister restaurant of the of the dining market. streamlined deriving character from the Haig Street Bistro in neighbouring heritage listed Woolstore in which it is Auchenflower, owned by Arvid Noack It’s permanent closure also left some located. Sandblasted brick walls are and Marcus Kerschbaumer where chef major talent with no place to cook, the backdrop for the mosaic tiled bar Yann Bouton creates an Alsatian focused something sought after head chef Ollie and a giant pastel neon sign leaves you menu much like their newest venture. Here Hansford and sommelier Aleks Balodis no doubt of the name, an ode to Rocco though you will see dishes such as canard had little experience with. Siffredi, an Italian porn star of some note. roti (roasted duck with spaetzle and braised red cabbage), côte de boeuf with bistro But good things can come out of Service is slick and professional and a potatoes and cafe de Paris butter and calamitous times and in this case, it is world away from fine dining but it’s nice pan seared gnocchi with mushrooms and Siffredi’s Spaghetti Bar, the brainchild to see the pro’s in action working for truffles in a beurre noisette. of Balodis and Hansford with the help of themselves and doing what they love. long-time friend and colleague Stephen Thank heavens for those redundancy Le Coin’s decor is similar to its sister Overty (who also worked the bar at cheques! Siffredi’s Spaghetti Bar, 36 venue which is also housed in a lovely Stokehouse Q). Vernon Terrace Teneriffe. No Phone. old shop with bright green French doors Email [email protected]. and symmetrical bay windows making At first the trio were looking at a pop up - a for cosy spots for diners to watch the market tester for both the unprecedented Across town in Red Hill on a busy corner passing parades of cars. Le Coin, 5/1 times and also for their non-traditional ideas sits a lovely old shop with an adjacent Enoggera Terrace, Red Hill. Phone 0449 for a spaghetti bar - but short-term leases courtyard and a cosy upstairs dining room. 696 236. Haig Street Bistro, 111 Haig Road, proved difficult to secure so they took the Over the years it has been everything from Auchenflower. Phone 0452 522 770. leap of faith and opened in Teneriffe in a well-regarded local bistro to breakfast Brisbane’s inner north. hub and coffee pitstop. Top: Food from Siffredis restaurant. Below: The team at Siffredi's restaurant. You won’t find beef ragu or carbonara on Enter Le Coin (The Corner), freshly this menu - in fact Hansford sees pasta as a painted and decked out with teak folding carrier for his inspired flavour pairings such chairs upholstered in taupe with hints as braised beef tongue, pickled radish, of jade around the courtyards. Wooden shiitake mushrooms and crispy pasta or tables with red umbrellas sit in lines on champagne lobster with pumpkin seed the footpath heralding the early opening pesto and stuffed zucchini. hours for breakfast which flows into lunch and dinner. It's directly opposite the Red The concept and delivery are a far Hill Cinema, a lovely space, formerly a cry from the ‘Queensland formality’ of skating rink and reclaimed after standing their former home, instead of long lists vacant for years after fire claimed much of entrees and mains with a voluminous of the interior and roof. wine list with a star-studded line up of old and new world wines, Siffredi’s offers Expect French fare to be served at all four snacks and five spaghetti dishes on times - announced in French with English rotation according to seasonal availability descriptors - the lunch menu sees and the chef's abundant creativity. Finger Lime and prosecco garnish oysters, a crostini topped with Ora king salmon and pickled rhubarb or cured meats and pickles are typical of the snack line up and if you’re very lucky spaghetti with saffron, white asparagus and young garlic will feature on the mains. 32 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN WE’VE taken 2021 on, with all its chaos community to feature their work. Chef Jenna Abbruzzese and her business and unpredictability, and are forging on “We are a boutique winery, as partner, Maitre d’ Megan Griffey, originally in Melbourne and Victoria. While the sad opened Kitchenette to provide café-style reality of hospitality businesses closing since opposed to mass-producing food and warm, generous service to a lockdown is a constant, there are those who wine,” says Tom, “our production hungry Hawthorn audience. They’ve built a have the courage and experience to open equals 30 to 35 tonnes a year strong following of regulars who have taken something new, others, to expand their and we’re very hands-on. So, to the friendly and professional culture the business or make a pivot a permanent fix. developing this new arm to the pair have cultivated. business, a locally focussed After 18 months of planning and nine cellar door and cafe, is a natural Then along came 2020 and the global months of renovations, Sarah and Tom extension of what we do.” pandemic. When the “density rule” was Guthrie, sheep farmers and the owners introduced for hospitality in March 2020, and winemakers of Grampians Estate Grampians Estate Winery, Jenna and Megan didn’t so much pivot, Winery, have opened the 1878 Room & 1878 Room & Deck, 1477 Western as take a leap of faith. “We knew that our Deck and it is fast becoming a food and Highway, Great Western; phone (03) little café would not be able to operate wine hub for the region. 5356 2400. viably. We needed a new business model altogether,” says Megan. The abundance and diversity of Western Chancery Lane, a European bistro by Victorian produce is the cornerstone of chef Scott Pickett, opened in the CBD Within 24 hours of the announcement the pair the new cellar door/cafe and the couple in December, in the historic Normanby bought a display fridge and Jenna extended set out to create a shopfront for their wines Chambers building. their range of ready-to-eat, take-home meals. while also highlighting the produce of their Customers, wary of supermarkets in those region of Western Victoria. The cafe can It’s a big step for the savvy businessman early days, appreciated the new range of daily accommodate up to 36 diners and the menu and chef, as it embodies his career evolution. essentials, Phillippa’s bakery sourdough, free is short, changes regularly and features “It is an amazing opportunity to continue the range eggs, milk and Dr Marty’s crumpets. entirely Western Victorian produce. legacy of Normanby Chambers that has been home to some of Melbourne’s most iconic Further research cemented the business The ‘Dairy Paddock Platter,’ may include restaurants,” he says. model. “Our customers told us they were cheeses from Milawa Cheese, Meredith disheartened at having to cook and clean Dairy, and pastes and preserves from Pickett has brought together a team with three times a day for everyone at home Mitch’s Preserves and Five Duck Farm. exceptional experience from Creative as restrictions meant they weren’t able to Director, Stuart Neil (Ezard, Estelle by Scott dine-out as often as they had before,” says Great Western Granary make a pie Pickett), Head Chef, Rob Kabboord (Lekker, Megan. Jenna came to the rescue with her exclusively for Grampians Estate. The Quay), and Venue Manager, Alex Mouzos range of ready-made meals. lamb, from the Guthrie’s farm is marinated (Vue Group). in Grampians Estate Shiraz and the pie “These are solutions for busy people, crust is made using local wheat. Timboon The menu is founded on classic European and they are reliable and delicious,” says Ice Cream have designed a new flavour, dishes with a twist, and is both generous and Jenna. The range includes Donati’s pork “The Tipsy” made with a Grampians Estate approachable, offering a broad selection of and fennel sausages in sugo; Persian- Shiraz reduction swirled through their vanilla flavours from a simple dry-aged duck burger spiced lamb shanks and Greek chicken bean ice cream. to an indulgent seafood platter. doused in lemon juice and oregano. All the producers who work with Tom and Other menu items include Hervey Bay Desserts and cakes are a highlight, Sarah share the same ethos as Grampians scallop, fennel with finger lime, jellied egg chocolate mousse and tiramisu sell-out Estate. They are small businesses utilising and smoked eel consommé and Cape Grim almost every day. Friands and brownies and making quality local produce. Tom porterhouse on the bone. are baked daily and there is a roster of and Sarah are passionate about what whole cakes like Vanilla Chiffon and a they do, who they work with and the cellar A feature floor-to-ceiling wine cellar Chocolate Celebration Cake. door is creating an opportunity for the showcases a wine list by Beverage Manager Clint Fox and Sommelier and Beverage Another string to the Kitchenette bow is Manager, rising talent Hannah Day. It homewares. “Dining at home has become features a list from Grand Cru Burgundies more important during the lockdowns and we through to a sharp, local representation. want to help make it stunning,” says Megan of Chancery Lane, 430 Little Collins St, their range of table linens by Pure Linen and Melbourne; phone (03) 9089 7598. hand-thrown crockery by Melbourne based ceramic artist Cath Hayward. Our Kitchenette - aka Kitchenette by its regulars - is a cosy Hawthorn cafe that Our Kitchenette, 217 Riversdale Road, opened on Riversdale Road in 2015 and Hawthorn, 3122; phone (03) 9939 9340. took the extended Melbourne lockdown to restructure their business and move Top left: Food from Grampians Estate restaurant. from a café to ready-made meals, tableware and espresso bar. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 33
sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING Switching tacks has become a common MO plates or who have daintier appetites. Our spirits isn't your usual pub offering. Many of among restaurants worldwide during the selection of dry aged duck breast, braised the wines are from wineries affected by bush Covid-19 pandemic. Noma, the Michelin- shallots, Vietnamese yellow curry and fish fires and the coronavirus crisis. Cocktails are starred Copenhagen restaurant voted best sauce demi-glace was an East/West combo a major attraction, as is the bottomless rosé in the world multiple times, re-opened in at its finest. lunches on weekends. mid-2020 as a burger and wine bar for the foreseeable future. La Rosa, the elegant Banh xeo - crispy coconut turmeric crepe Group executive chef, Jason Roberson, Italian eatery in Sydney's historic Strand with onions and bean sprouts and your choice and head chef Jon Barrios have come up Arcade, debuted The Milan Cricket Club for of tofu, chicken, pork or prawns - is a roaring with an eclectic menu with strong American the summer, a three-month pop-up billed as success at both of Hello Auntie's Marrickville - North and South - overtones. Top class a British/Italian steakhouse. and Darling Square locations. There would starters include beef cheek empanadas and probably be furious protests among regular fried Southern crab cakes. Use your hands Hello Auntie's Darling Square outpost has diners if it went AWOL in the revamped for the Cuban sandwich of pork belly, fried pivoted with an innovative new menu that listings. Cut at the table with scissors, the ham, dill pickles, Swiss cheese, cubano blends its trademark sophisticated cooking signature dish never fails to please with its sauce and crinkle cuts or choripan - a chorizo techniques with Vietnamese flavours and accompaniments of fresh mint and lettuce. baguette, chimichurri and fried onions. Pick ingredients. A year after the opening of up a knife and fork for the fish, fowl and farm Darling Square, the last segment of the Many Asian diners come here for the noodle lineup, including grilled barramundi filet with NSW's government's $3.4 billion revamp of dishes, which cover the classics and rifs on pumpkin mole, latino bean salad and herb the Darling Harbour precinct, the area has Euro/Asian blends that underline the creativity crumbs and char-grilled wagyu rump stake. really lived up to its promise as a world- Cuong Nguyen has made his calling card. Forrester's, 336 Riley Street, Surry Hills; phone class example of urban typology - fusing We plumped for mi xao bo birria - Angus (02) 8033 2665. landscape, architecture, art, food and blade ragu, homemade biang biang noodles, culture. Anchored by Japanese star architect tomato, onions, annatto, coriander and Tequila Mocking Bird in Paddington Kengo Kuma's Exchange Building and its shallots - and will be coming back for more. was the first restaurant owned by the \"wrapping\" of 20 kilometres of timber, the Atticus Hospitality Group and Esteban in sense of community is palpable. In spite of feeling very well-fed, we couldn't the centre of the CBD is the second. The resist another out-of-the-box creation - banh basement space has been gussied up by Over 4000 residents live in the surrounding mi kem nuoc mam caramen - a.k.a the architects Humphrey & Edwards to centre apartment blocks and many were out walking dessert hot dog. A brioche bun is filled with on a low-lit bar redolent of south-of-the- their designer dogs or, in the case of one malt custard semifreddo ice-cream topped border with Art Deco touches. chic Chinese girl, carrying two pedigree with passionfruit and whipped cream and the cats. Hello Auntie offers inside and outdoor result begs for an Instagram pic. The waiter The two-storey venue boasts an upstairs seating to give diners the option of hunkering told us that the sweet treat also did a brisk restaurant with an open kitchen, counter down in the moodily lit interior highlighted by takeaway business. seating and a huge mural by Sydney artist a burnished cocktail bar or people-watching Nanami Cowdroy. The menu is a fusion over the \"village green\". Chef Cuong Nguyen Another original creation is the Bazooka of Mexican cultures from pre-Colombian offers two new menus - one regular and Joe - a moreish cocktail of gin, Campari, through Spanish and Afro-Caribbean. Starters one vegetarian. There's also a bottomless pear and orange - which is a highlight of include king oyster mushroom ceviche and brunch for the price of $70 for two, featuring a very competitive cocktail list. The tightly wagyu beef tartare. Move on to mains such dishes such as cured tuna belly ham, kombu edited wine list spans Australian, New as wattleseed rubbed duck breast, ironbark extract and basil oil or a rice paper roll kit, Zealand and French bottlings. Hello Auntie grilled chicken and Byron Bay pork belly and accompanied by a passionfruit grape, is one of the best reasons to bookmark crackling with tomatillo and micro ensalada. strawberry lime or lychee and ginger spritz. repeat visits to Darling Square, which has become a magnet for locals and visitors. Prior to opening, director Michael Fegent, You can let your decision-making skills have Hello Auntie, Shop 2, 16 Nicolle Walk, chef John Frid and bar manager Mark some time off and choose from two Feed Me Darling Square; phone (02) 8072 8838. Crawford spent a month in Mexico. One of Auntie banquets at $60 and $79 per person. the results is the largest selection of tequilas But we decided to select our own multi-course Forrester's, the historic Surry Hills pub, and mezcals in Australia. If you are a tequila meal, starting with two listings from the small is celebrating its 100th anniversary this aficionado, don't go past the premium tequila plate options. I would rock up solely for the bo year. Following a much-needed $1.5 million flights. Esteban, 1 Temperance Lane, Sydney; tai - aged beef tartare, truffle, capers, shallots makeover after its acquisition by Applejack phone (02) 9062 8565. and caviar. The meat was super tender and Hospitality (the owners of Bopp & Tone, The the flavourings produced the sort of taste Butler and Endeavour Tap Rooms), the Riley Top: Delicious food from Hello Auntie restaurant. explosion Vietnamese cuisine is noted for. The Street icon re-opened in November. fried school prawns tossed in lemon myrtle and served with chilli mayo deftly interplayed The venue is split between three sectors crunch with heat. - the public bar, upstairs and Phylli's restaurant. The bistro-style eatery has a Hello Auntie also offers medium-sized fresh, contemporary decor featuring a mural dishes for those who want to order more by Sydney artist Mielo, a cool pastel palette and a profusion of greenery. The wine list of 50 curated wines and a top rollout of premium 34 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three judges taste expertise and often a marketing/retail the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, masters of wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered If we are judging a region, for example, is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce we will have a winemaker judge from above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, that region because that person knows is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine generally someone with broad and not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind mature experience. wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 95 - 96 Very Good 18 - 18.4 93 - 94 HHHH Silver 91 - 92 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 89 - 90 Good HHH Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 35
W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000 WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600 2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560 2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250 1970 $400 Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330 1971 $720 1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280 1972 $400 1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450 1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480 1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350 1975 $460 1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300 1990 $130 1976 $850 1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360 1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320 1978 $380 1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110 1997 $300 1993 $100 1980 $380 1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400 1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380 1995 $130 1983 $480 1998 $85 1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390 1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110 2006 $180 1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120 2007 Not Released 1998 $130 1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130 2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130 1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120 2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140 2002 $120 1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190 1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140 2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250 2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180 2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95 2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160 2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100 2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95 2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120 2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190 2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90 1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320 1995 $100 2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280 2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250 2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110 2000 $65 2001 $110 2003 $110 2005 $110 2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120 2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110 2006 $120 1990 $250 2008 $85 1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210 2009 $85 1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220 2010 $100 1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95 2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85 2009 $95 2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100 Chardonnay 2002 $220 1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230 1992 $600 1998 $140 ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220 1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140 Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210 1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85 1990 $90 1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000 1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85 1994 $85 1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200 2003 $500 1965 $600 2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550 1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250 2004 $75 1997 $200 2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75 2010 $70 36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Follow us and keep up to Shiraz 2005 $5,700 E. Guigal La Turque date with all our latest 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage wine info, tastings and 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 events on facebook, 1993 $90 1991 $850 twitter and instagram. 1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 Connect on social with 1996 $160 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 Winestate 1997 $85 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1998 $160 1996 $260 www.facebook.com/Winestate- 1999 $100 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 Magazine 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 twitter.com/winestateed 2002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 www.instagram.com/winestate/ 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500 2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 www.winestate.com.au 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650 2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550 1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200 1996 $800 de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500 1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800 1999 $750 1991 $1,900 1997 $380 1882 $1,800 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200 2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200 2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200 2003 $600 1995 $3,500 2001 $250 1901 $700 2004 $850 1996 $3,100 2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950 1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600 1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500 1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500 Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200 2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140 1996 $1,400 2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650 2008 $2,400 1994 $130 1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80 2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75 2002 $600 1997 $350 2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200 WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500 2004 $280 1980 $180 Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280 1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700 2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000 1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190 1998 $4,800 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700 2001 $4,500 2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320 2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200 1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370 1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 37
travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN NORTH-EAST VICTORIA WHERE WHISKY MEETS A SLICE OF ITALY AT HOME for travel in 2021, so we have carefully CHOCOLATE selected local regions that encompass FANCY a leisurely cycling tour through a true Italian adventure,” Hancock JUST across the Murray River from two of Victoria’s most picturesque wine says. “The destinations showcase both Rutherglen in Victoria, the small New regions? Italian heritage and sensational cycling South Wales town of Corowa is home to experiences, all while encapsulating the Corowa Whisky and Chocolate. Housed Boutique Italian tour operator, A’qto natural beauty of Australia.” in a former 1920s flour mill in Corowa, Cycling has announced the launch of the distillery serves breakfasts, lunches, local tours in country Victoria to bring The Gourmet Escapes guided tours, cakes, and coffees. Visitors are invited to riders a ‘slice of Italy’ by selecting Bright commencing September 2020 (subject sample organic chocolate and liquorice and Daylesford for their mountain climbs, to Covid-19 state regulations), visit the products made by sister company rolling hills and views. rolling hills and backroads of Victoria’s Junee Licorice, as well as being able spa country, around Daylesford and to tour the distillery, where Australian Following the restriction of overseas Hepburn Springs, and the Australian whisky is waiting to be released. The travel due to Covid-19 and the subsequent alpine landscape of Bright, on four-day range includes single malts. There is postponement of fully-booked Italian tours and three-night adventures. a 13-metre-long concrete bar; tours across Puglia, Tuscany, Piedmont and the are run twice daily and the facility is Dolomites, A’qto Cycling founders Nancy Cyclists will enjoy daily rides throughout open seven days at 20-24 Steel Street, de Losa and Damian Hancock have put a Hepburn, Tawonga Gap and Mount Corowa, phone (02) 6033 1311. http:// local spin on their successful tours - both Buffalo, guided by Damian through corowawhisky.com.au/ riding and non-riding components. The varying elevations and levels of difficulty. result is four-day getaways with an Italian accent. Non-riding guests, hosted by Nancy, will enjoy activities ranging from guided “We needed to innovate our business walks and visits to beautiful local towns in order to keep our clients engaged 38 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
travelbriefs to professional cooking and photography continued the Griffith-based family wine DISTILLERY SPIRIT BRIGHT classes. company’s growth in Victoria, where it has owned its Yarra Valley winery and REED & CO, the small family-owned “One of our main points-of-difference vineyards since the 1990s and more distillery in the alpine town of Bright, has from other cycling tour companies in the recently established or bought more unveiled a new product line featuring industry is our non-riding partner program, vineyards in the Yarra, Heathcote and batches of Spirit Lab limited-edition gins. which allows couples to tour together, King Valley. despite varying interests,” says Nancy Renowned chefs Hamish Nugent and De Bortoli’s Rutherglen cellar door Rachel Reed first started distilling at Tani “As a non-cyclist myself, my time on tour building was originally built as cellars in Eat & Drink, where their popular signature is solely devoted to the enjoyment of our 1886 and was the site of Seppelts Wines Australian dry gin, Remedy, was crafted. guests off-the-bike, whether that is hosting for over 100 years. atmospheric evening Aperitivo hours, Now full-time distillers, their first round indulgent dinners or facilitating rewarding Located in the heart of Rutherglen township, of Spirit Lab releases is a collaboration non-riding partner activities.” it is also home to the Tuileries Complex series, partnering with like-minded – a cafe, a la carte restaurant, luxury makers and celebrating local producers Post-ride, all guests will indulge in accommodation and conference facility. including neighbouring Sixpence Coffee. authentic Italian dining, local produce The options include Coffee Liqueur and and regional wines while residing in The De Bortoli cellar door houses an Wild Blackberry Gin. boutique and private accommodation, art gallery featuring indigenous art and simultaneously supporting local tourism. artefacts. De Bortoli owns four vineyards Reed & Co Distillery is at, 15 Wills St, Tours of Daylesford and Bright are with a total of 185 hectares located 8km Bright, phone (03) 5750 1304 and is open priced at $1,595.00 and $1,995.00 per from the township with 1.6 hectares under Friday-Monday. person respectively, which includes vine at the Tuileries site. De Bortoli now accommodation, meals and activities. For has 820 hectares of vineyards in Victoria Opposite page: Corowa whisky chocolate building. details see: www.aqtocycling.com/ and has said it expects to be producing Top: Rutherglen barrels. over 7 million bottles of premium Victorian Above right: Reed and Co Distillery Blackberry Gin. DE BORTOLI’S PREMIUM wine by 2025. Bottom left: The Horn Mount Buffalo National Park. PURCHASE FORAGING TO FARM GATE DE BORTOLI expanded its premium wine producing capability by purchasing GOURMETS foraging for local goodies will Rutherglen Estates in 2019. The purchase find outstanding olive oils and capers at Gooramadda Olives (1468 Gooramadda Rd, Gooramadda, phone (02) 6026 5658, www.gooramaddaolives.com.au). Nearby, hit Earth Care Farm, where you can pick up farmgate goodies such as serious garlic or jars of mulberry jam (1462 Chiltern-Howlong Rd, Browns Plains). In Rutherglen, the Rutherglen Farmers Market is back, running every second Sunday morning of the month. It is held at Lions Park, Douglas St, Rutherglen. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 39
travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN SOUTHERN VICTORIA YARRA’S FINEST HOTEL TIME TO SLOW DOWN AND Lonsdale. Offering panoramic views from NEW FIT-OUT RELAX Portsea to Port Phillip Heads, Barwon Heads to the distant Otways. The Nest offers three YARRA Valley Lodge, one of Victoria’s LOCATED just an hour's drive from Melbourne, luxurious, modern and purpose built 'pods' finest wine region hotels, named February the coastal experiences in Geelong and The ideal for couples looking for a romantic 1 as its reopening date after nine months Bellarine are stunning. Geelong has a north- getaway, or a solo place to retreat, soaking of closure. facing bay, rare in the southern hemisphere, in the stunning views. Each Nest has been and the Bellarine has beaches perfect for built sustainably and features a king size bed, The hotel said the Covid pandemic water-based adventures to combine with bath robes, Bluetooth music, smart television, presented a “unique opportunity” to wine and food adventures. Geelong and The a coffee machine, along with quality fittings “revitalise all our public areas including Bellarine have a range of unique and luxurious and furnishing and a balcony spa bath to Marmion Ballroom and Bella Restaurant”. boutique accommodation venues. make for a very special time away. “We’ve painted, cleaned and polished, Lon Retreat and Spa allows guests to slow Nestled in the vines at McGlashan’s Estate and the hotel is looking as good as it down and relax. Set on 200 acres overlooking are new luxury eco villas. The stylish villas are ever has. the ocean, the adult only exclusive retreat filled with natural light and accommodate two features seven luxurious suites and a mineral guests. They are spacious and relaxed and “We have also redesigned our menus spa. Suites at Lon are spread throughout the offer the perfect place for a Bellarine getaway. and conference packages. While our sandstone retreat, each individually designed Each villa has a fully covered private al fresco offers, inclusions and prices have been with its own unique character and connection space that overlooks the vineyard. maintained, our sharing, buffet-style menus to the ocean, lakes and surrounding farmland. have been replaced with individual dishes Each is a personal sanctuary combining Located in central Geelong, Vue Apartments for each guest to select and enjoy.” earthy tones with contemporary luxury. is located across the road from beautiful Eastern Beach and a swathe of the city's Breakfasts at on-site restaurant Bella have Campbell Point House is an ultra- waterfront restaurants and cafes. Choose been transformed into an a la carte, café- private luxurious waterfront boutique from studio, one- or two-bedroom apartments style restaurant, with barista-made coffee, hotel accommodating a maximum of 30 or family rooms. Yarra Valley Tea Company teas and fresh, guests at any one time. Set on the banks local produce. of Lake Connewarre, Campbell Point Nomads Nest, meanwhile, is a new property House has been modelled on the famously that offers private, luxury accommodation for Dinners feature local flavours in smoked extravagant chateaus of rural France. The couples and singles a few steps away from Buxton trout and Little Creek Cattle beef, property includes eight luxurious suites, the heart of Geelong. alongside handmade pasta and artisanal each with private en-suite, sitting areas cheeses from the dairies at Yarra Valley and stunning views. FABULOUS FISHY and Coldstream, paired to some of the best EXPERIENCES wines from the region. The Nest is located just outside Point GIPPSLAND has a new culinary There are a range of packages available. experience with the opening of Soda Fish See www.yarravalleylodge.com/ at Lakes Entrance. Chef Nick Mahlook, formerly of The Atlantic in Melbourne’s Crown precinct, has returned to his hometown to breathe new life into a floating restaurant in the heart of town, which began its life as the iconic Raymond Island Ferry. Soda Fish aims to invent the holiday town’s humble fish and chips offering, taking it up a notch with a seafood bar and grill using seafood sourced from neighbouring fishing boats, including fresh oysters shucked to order. We’re not talking food miles here; we’re talking food metres! Also new at Lakes Entrance is The Slipway, a new outdoor dining and arts 40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
travelbriefs space, where beer-aficionados can enjoy outdoor kitchen, extending to fire- UWEA member Montalto, Pt. Leo will tastings from the region’s Sailor’s Grave cooking facilities and a large chef’s table continue to build on its already excellent Brewing. Think offerings like a smoked - expansive outdoor spaces and a fire pit. visitor experience, attracting visitors oyster stout or sea urchin and lemon from further afield to this beautiful part myrtle gose. The property is designed with friends of Victoria.” in mind and is able to accommodate LUXURY ON-SITE three couples. A short walk across the For details of all Pt Leo Estate experiences paddock takes guests to the Polperro visit: www.ultimatewineryexperiences. SAM Coverdale produces some of the winery and a short stroll finds you at Many com.au/wineries/pt-leo-estate/. Mornington Peninsula’s best wines from Little Bar and Bistro. Polperro by Even Keel Winery at Red Hill, STAY AT THE GATEWAY TO where the four luxury on-site villas are often Polperro Farmhouse is at 64 Donaldsons LUXURY booked well in advance. Now Polperro Rd, Red Hill. Phone (03) 5989 2471 Farmhouse, an updated celebration of the or visit www.polperrowines.com.au/ THE Melbourne suburb of Ringwood, known iconic 1950s holiday home, offers another farmhouse-accommodation. A two-night as the “gateway to the Yarra Valley” will vineyard accommodation option. minimum stay applies. welcome a new luxury hotel from February. The luxury three-bedroom farmhouse ART AND WINE CREATE The Sebel Melbourne Ringwood will bring has been recently renovated by Coverdale ULTIMATE WINERY 103 rooms, including full apartment-style and wife Emma Phillips in conjunction with EXPERIENCE rooms, to Melbourne's burgeoning eastern renowned design firm Hecker Guthrie. suburbs growth corridor. Spanning six The working vineyard property is set with PT LEO Estate lies on the often-unexplored floors, the property will feature 48 studio a backdrop of a pine forest, surrounded by Westernport side of the Mornington apartments, 48 one-bedroom suites and an established European garden setting Peninsula and boasts sweeping views seven two-bedroom suites, with guest and distant ocean views. of Phillip Island, a 50-acre vineyard, access to on-site amenities including an paddocks of grazing cattle and a 19- ultra-modern fitness centre, four meeting There is a fully equipped kitchen, an acre sculpture park. A Wine Tasting and spaces, two function rooms, a restaurant, open fireplace, luxury bath, extensive Vineyard Tour at Pt Leo is an art and wine delicatessen and bar and an open-air immersion. terrace. The bespoke wine tasting takes place Opposite page top left: Aerial view of Yarra Valley Lodge. while meandering through the vines and Top left: Oysters from Soda Fish. learning the secrets of grape-growing Top right: Outdoor sculpture at Pt Leo Estate. while savouring local cheeses and fruits. Bottom left: Exterior outdoor kitchen at New Polperro. Then take an amble through the sculpture park, showcasing more than 70 world- class local and international works. Pt Leo Estate is the latest Australian winery to join the Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia (UWEA) collection. The property offers three different dining options: the intimate two-hatted restaurant, Laura, or the bistro-style one-hatted Pt Leo Estate Restaurant and all-weather Wine Terrace and Cellar Door. Kate Shilling, Executive Officer of UWEA says: “Pt Leo Estate is the perfect fit for UWEA at this stage of its evolution. Alongside its neighbour, longstanding March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 41
CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA 168 TASTED 111 AWARDED WINES OF VICTORIA With Victoria in lock-down because of Covid we wanted to still Clarnette & Four Sisters Central put forward the fine products of the state, so came up with this Ludvigsen Victoria Sauvignon tasting, held in Adelaide with judges who had either worked at Grampians Riesling Blanc 2020 HHH Victorian wineries or judged in their shows. We urge you to 2020 HHH1/2 Powerful and pungent support any of these wines recommended in this tasting! Fresh lifted perfumed fruit aromas with soft lemon bouquet with a fruity flavours; very SPARKLING Dalfarras Victoria steely thread and crisp varietal. $16.30 WHITE Prosecco 2020 HHH and racy spicy citrus Stylish lifted yeast flavours. $27 Mitchelton Wines 8 TASTED driven fragrances with The Bend King 6 AWARDED a great fruit palate Kimbarra Wines Valley Sauvignon and nutty complexity. Grampians Riesling Blanc 2019 HHH Good examples of fresh $18.85 2020 HHH1/2 Lightly perfumed nose fruity proseccos with Fresh fruit fragrances with savoury notes. Silky a couple of nice aged Blue Pyrenees and an austere palate smooth and citrusy in examples that are at Estate Victoria with subtle fruit flavours the mouth.$15 their peak. Midnight Cuvée laced with perfumed Chardonnay elements. $30 OTHER WHITE Blue Pyrenees 2016 HHH VARIETALS & Estate Pyrenees A well made and easy SAUVIGNON BLENDS Vintage Brut drinking sparkling BLANC 2017 HHH1/2 showing plenty of 4 TASTED More savoury in style character. $36 6 TASTED 2 AWARDED showing great freshness, 2 AWARDED complexity and depth SPARKLING The judges found this to Only two pinot grigios with some lovely yeast ROSÉ/RED be a flight of wines that made the grade here. autolysis. $33 lacked varietal definition 7 TASTED and character. A few Mitchelton Wines 2 AWARDED Glenwillow Wines also lacked vibrancy. Preece King Valley Bendigo Sparkling However, focus on the Pinot Grigio Gapsted High A couple of good Shiraz 2017 HHH two that got through! 2020 HHH1/2 Country King Valley examples here with the Rich red fruit fragrances Freshness of apples Prosecco NV HHH rest being either too and some nice spicy and pears on the nose A pleasant well balanced sweet or over extracted chocolaty complexity to with an enticing varietal off-dry style with light with tannins and the palate. $38 palate lifted by good line fruit notes and tropical showing their age. of acid. $20 nuances. $20 RIESLING Mitchelton Wines Mount Avoca Jack Buller Wines The Preece King Valley Barry Pyrenees 4 TASTED Nook King Valley Prosecco NV HHH Sparkling Shiraz 2 AWARDED Pinot Grigio A real crowd-pleaser NV HHH 2020 HHH with a lifted perfumed Plenty of sweet red fruit A couple of nice An attractive, well-made bouquet and crisp citrus with balancing savoury examples of the variety and uncomplicated flavours. $20 notes, warming alcohol with a good line of acid wine; hint of greens Buller Wines The and a soft finish. $47.50 to balance. apples and pears. $23 Nook King Valley Prosecco NV HHH Nice fruity lift to the nose followed by some slightly austere tart lemon flavours. $23 42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
regional tasting VIOGNIER & Tahbilk 1927 Vines CHARDONNAY Goldman Wines BLENDS Nagambie Lakes Alpine Valleys Marsanne 15 TASTED Chardonnay 5 TASTED 2014 HHHHH 2019 HHH1/2 1 AWARDED An excellent example 10 AWARDED Enticing perfumed of an aged marsanne. oak nose with citrus A disappointing class. It shows great A strong and consistent notes and lovely citrus “We have a lack of winemaking and has class of well-made expression on a slightly definition for this an enticing length wines showing regional drying palate. $27 variety in Australia,” of distinct citrus and Victoria is well suited Wine by Sam noted one judge. “Both perfumed oak characters for this variety but also Stardust & Muscle regions and winemaking with attractive powdery shows the adaptability Strathbogie Ranges have a major effect tannins. $46.20 of the varietal. “Great Chardonnay in the production to see more fruit driven, 2020 HHH of this varietal wine Tahbilk Nagambie less of the oaky styles of A youthful easy drinking and consumers are Lakes Roussanne the past,” commented style with fresh citrus confused!” However, Marsanne Viognier one judge. fruit and good oak there was one worthy 2018 HHHH expression. $32 wine here. Vibrant velvety stonefruit Goldman Wines fragrances and a Alpine Valleys Scion Rutherglen silky balance of pure Chardonnay Viognier nectarine and peach fruit 2017 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH1/2 flavours. “Unusual but Developing melon and good!” $25.70 apricot aromas with soft melon driven flavours Tahbilk Nagambie A big oaky wine with Hirsch Hill Estate and good balancing light golden hues lovely Yarra Valley acidity. $36 Lakes Marsanne maintained balance Chardonnay 2020 HHH1/2 2019 HHH MARSANNE & A fresh and elegant between age and Subtle melon-like fruit ROUSSANNE & fruit and beautifully with hints of figs and PREDOMINANT honeyed style with developed citrus rind-like nuts. Will age well. BLENDS lovely purity of varietal fruit characters. Has flavours. 5+ $40 3-5 $25 6 TASTED Mount Avoca Estate 6 AWARDED potential. 5+ Mitchelton Wines Organic Pyrenees $19.70 Chardonnay “Excellent class Estate Nagambie 2019 HHH showing good regional Chardonnay Attractive toasty fruit and excellent McPherson Wines 2019 HHHH cashew bouquet and winemaking skills,” Aquarius SEA Still very youthful wine long creamy sweet fruit enthused one judge. Marsanne Viognier with a dusty oak nose, palate. Ageing nicely. 2019 HHH a hint of citrus and a $37.95 Vibrant youthful melange complex mid-weight Mitchelton Wines of citrus, melon and red palate. Will develop Preece Yarra Valley apple characters. Good further. 3-5 $25 Chardonnay acid line. $20 2018 HHH A tight citrus fruit/oak Mitchelton Wines Goldman Wines Gapsted Ballerina style with some toasty Estate Nagambie Alpine Valleys Canopy King Valley development. Will age Marsanne 2019 HHH Chardonnay Chardonnay further. $20 Nicely developing 2018 HHHH 2019 HHH Glenlofty Lookout minerally citrus varietal A soft and seductive oak Developing toasty Block Pyrenees fruit with some drying driven wine with some wine with oak quite Chardonnay tannin length. $25 attractive green melon- evident but nice fruit 2017 HHH Mitchelton Wines like fruit and excellent underneath. $25 Nicely developed Estate Nagambie tannin structure. Nice chardonnay with good Roussanne now or can be cellared. oak/fruit and acid/tannin 2019 HHH balance. Drink now. $32 Ripe pungent stewed 3-5 $35 melon bouquet with similar flavours. At its peak. Drink soon. $25 JUDGES Marc Allgrove Eric Semmler Neil Jericho Partner at Evans and Proprietor of 919 Wine Winemaker, Jericho Ayers consulting firm. Company. Formerly Wines. Former general With over 20 years in winemaker for the Hardy manager of Taylors Wines. the Australian wine Wine Company. Previously Former winemaker for industry, both Australia with Brown Brothers Brown Brothers in North and abroad. Worked at and Auldstone Cellars. East Victoria. Regular Hardy’s, Constellation, Has spent eight years as fortified wine judge. Chapel Hill (CEO) fortified winemaker for and director of the Hardys. Associate judge at Phylloxera board. Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and Riverland shows. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 43
WINES OF VICTORIA ROSÉ OTHER RED TEMPRANILLO VARIETALS & 5 TASTED BLENDS 5 TASTED 2 AWARDED 3 AWARDED 17 TASTED A couple of good 11 AWARDED “A flexible style than can examples with either be young and juicy vibrancy and good fruit The judges found this to or big and complex,” expression; one savoury be a solid class overall commented one judge. the other fruitier and with good wines across “Winemakers need to berry-like but both on all varieties. watch tannin extraction the drier spectrum. with this variety.” Hirsch Hill Estate Buller Wines The Glenwillow Wines Hirsch Hill Estate Clarnette & Yarra Valley Pinot Nook Victoria Pinot Bendigo Nebbiolo Yarra Valley Pinot Ludvigsen Noir Rosé Noir 2020 HHHH1/2 d' Yandoit Noir 2019 HHH Grampians 2020 HHHH A wine with good 2017 HHHH Rich and flavoursome Tempranillo Elegant food style of structure and length An elegant wine with a with extracted fruit 2020 HHH1/2 wine showing some and rich with fruits of somewhat meaty nose characters and big Big colour, lifted red lovely, perfumed fruit the forest, strawberries and a big well-constructed grippy tannins. $26 fruit aromas and palate from a well-managed and hints of rhubarb palate with savoury Tahbilk Nagambie offering a good mouthful vineyard. Long and with a nice perfumed flavours and some aged Lakes Grenache of excellent varietal fruit balanced with a warm element and good oak oak notes. $35 Shiraz Mourvedre flavours. $27 edge. “Chill!” $22 handling. $23 Mount Avoca Estate 2018 HHH Tahbilk Nagambie The MANG By Organic Pyrenees Tight and tannic with Sanguine Estate Lakes Grenache Peerick Premium Merlot 2019 HHH1/2 perfumed/floral fruit Heathcote Mourvedre Rosé Pyrenees Red Blend A drier style of wine and dry vegetative-like Tempranillo 2020 HHH1/2 2019 HHHH with pleasant perfumed nuances. $25.70 2019 HHH Dark salmon colour to Aromatic lift of fruits, hints of violets Blue Pyrenees Dark cherry-like fruit this drier style rosé with blackberries on the and a firm drying tannic Estate The Pom with an oaky edge and a very good perfumed nose. Plenty of tannins finish. $37.95 Pyrenees Cabernet leathery notes and a strawberry fruit on the palate but Franc 2018 HHH long earthy palate. $30 expression. $21.50 complemented by the A big well constructed fullness of the fruit. tannic style with lots of Mount Avoca Estate $39.95 plum-like fruit and hints Organic Pyrenees of dried herbs. $33 Tempranillo Mount Avoca Estate 2019 HHH Organic Pyrenees A big yet elegant wine Lagrein 2018 HHH with good balance and Bright confectionery length of fresh floral fruit fragrances with a cherry/berry fruit. $32.50 big rich and intensely flavoured palate. $37.95 SANGIOVESE & McPherson Wines BLENDS Jo Nash Upper Goulburn Pinot Noir 4 TASTED 2018 HHH 1 AWARDED Delicate perfumed fruit on the nose and good One very good example depth and structure to showing what is the varietal palate. $38 possible. Wine by Sam Blue Pyrenees McPherson Wines The Victorian Estate Pyrenees Aquarius SEA Strathbogie Ranges Merlot 2017 HHH Sangiovese Primitivo 2020 HHH Big extracted style rich 2020 HHHH1/2 Bright purple wine with with berry fruits and has A firm long and solid spicy floral fragrances a backbone of drying wine, very well made and and firm vibrant red fruit tannins. $27 excellent colour offering a flavours. $24 vibrant mix of sour cherry and smallgoods-like characters with a fine line of tannins. $18.99 44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
regional tasting DURIF CABERNET Wine by Sam Single Blue Pyrenees Tahbilk Nagambie SAUVIGNON & Vineyard Series Estate Richardson Lakes Cabernet 5 TASTED BLENDS By Sam Plunkett Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 4 AWARDED Strathbogie Ranges Sauvignon 2017 HHH Durif creates big wines 22 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH1/2 Ageing spicy minty fruit and there are some 17 AWARDED 2017 HHHH Dark brooding fruit nicely supported by a good examples here. A solid consistent A lot of oak here sitting fragrances and big oaky reasonable level of acid. “Big and rich and age class. “Vintage has on top of some slightly palate with attractive red $25.70 worthy,” said one judge. great influence on the jammy blackberry fruit fruits pushing through. “But watch out for cabernet varietal,” said characters with loads of Solid tannins. $60 Glenlofty Estate portiness,” he advised one judge. “Cabernet wood tannins. Finishes Glenlofty Pyrenees Pyrenees Cabernet prefers cooler well. $38 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Buller Wines conditions, or at least Glenlofty The 2017 HHH1/2 2017 HHH Balladeer Rutherglen not extended heat.” Decameron Block Nice richness and Quite tannic with red Durif 2018 HHHH1/2 Although there were no Pyrenees Cabernet intensity of varietal fruit fruit characters and a A long well structured five stars here there was Sauvignon with a floral lift and background of spices wine that is still very a lot to like with many 2017 HHHH some mintiness. Good and mint. $32 youthful with a deep drinkable wines on offer. A hot high alcohol style use of oak. $28 purple hue. Loads of with berry fruits, dried Blue Pyrenees Kooyonga Creek plums and berries with Gapsted Ballerina capsicum nuance, charry Estate Richardson Single Vineyard dark chocolate notes Canopy King Valley oak in the background Reserve Pyrenees North East Victoria and a soft finish. $29 Cabernet Sauvignon and upfront tannins. $50 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Buller Wines The 2018 HHHH Mount Avoca Estate 2017 HHH 2013 HHH Nook Victoria Durif An excellent solid and Organic Pyrenees A solid tannic wine A well aged wine still 2019 HHHH well-balanced cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon layered with lovely rich showing some spicy Typical of the style – with lovely rich berry/ 2019 HHH1/2 chocolate and dark berry fruit with lots of tobacco- huge but balanced with capsicum varietal Oak evident here fruit characters. $150 like oak. $19.95 big rich and dense hit characters, hints of with bright red fruits Sanguine Estate of plums, chocolate and mint and good use of underneath showing a Heathcote SHIRAZ 2019 berry fruits with meaty/ oak. $31 minty/capsicum edge. Cabernets leathery notes. $23 McPherson Wines Good drinkability. $37.95 2019 HHH 15 TASTED Olive Hills Estate Jo Nash Goulburn Blue Pyrenees Quite an austere wine 12 AWARDED Rutherglen Durif Valley Cabernet Estate Estate Red but has some lovely 2018 HHH Sauvignon Pyrenees Cabernet minty and spicy berry fruit A solid, consistent A well-made wine with 2018 HHHH Sauvignon Merlot varietal characters. $25 group. “Again watch the slightly extracted varietal A subtle green and 2018 HHH1/2 Gapsted High tannins,” advised one fruit and excellent palate slightly astringent style. Good colour, good spicy Country King Valley judge. “There is good structure. $35 Excellent structure with black/blue varietal fruit Cabernet Merlot richness and varietal Morris of Rutherglen good cabernet fruit and and underscored by 2018 HHH character within the CHM Rutherglen a firm tannic grip. $38 some somewhat chalky Nicely developing styles so don’t lose that Durif 2013 HHH tannins. $45 medium bodied wine by being overripe or too A big tannic wine – true with charry red fruits tannic.” to style with nice aged and some capsicum chocolaty berry fruit notes. $20 Peerick Pyrenees characters. $60 Gapsted High Shiraz 2019 HHHHH Country King Valley An inky rich wine with Cabernet Sauvignon a big intense colour and 2018 HHH lifted fruit and fresh oak A big tannin driven bouquet. The palate cabernet showing subtle exhibits a vibrant varietal black/blue varietal fruit fruit expression. “A characters. $20 wine made for ageing,” Byronsvale Single said one judge. $29.95 Dry Land Vineyard Central Victoria Grampians Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Stawell Gift 2018 HHH Grampians Shiraz A lifted fruit driven style 2019 HHHH with attractive minty Rich red wine with a red fruit and balancing juicy fresh length of tannins. $27 vibrant varietal fruit Peerick Pyrenees showing spicy peppery Cabernet Sauvignon elements and oak in a 2018 HHH supporting role. $20 An elegant fresh and exciting style with spicy berry fruit and capsicum nuances. $29.95 March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 45
WINES OF VICTORIA McPherson Wines Eaglerange Estate Grampians Estate SHIRAZ & Trentham Reserve Don't Tell Gary Red Label Alpine Streeton Reserve BLENDS Heathcote Shiraz Central Victoria Valleys Shiraz Grampians Shiraz 2017 & OLDER 2017 HHH Shiraz 2019 HHHH 2019 HHH 2018 HHH1/2 Lovely peppery blue and An attractive nose of Rich and intense A wine displaying 17 TASTED red fruit characters here lifted sweet fruit with plum-like varietal fruit freshness and vibrancy 10 AWARDED with a big firm tannin lovely rich flavours of aromas and flavours with a touch of elegance backbone. $28 dark berry varietal fruit with nice spiciness. and long lingering blue A mixed group of reds. and oak with a slight Has finesse. $25 fruit flavours. $75 “Many of these wines Ellis Wines roasted note. $23.99 St Erth Heathcote have excess tannins Signature Heathcote Grampians Estate Sanguine Estate Shiraz 2018 HHH which have not softened Shiraz 2017 HHH Streeton Reserve Progeny Heathcote An elegant shiraz with with age,” said one An elegant wine Grampians Shiraz Shiraz 2019 HHH aromatic oak over spicy judge. “The better wines showing nicely ageing 2019 HHHH A solid wine with good varietal fruit and big show balance even with brooding red fruits on A big strong tannic length and balance of tannin length. $20 the further ageing which the nose and palate. $40 style of shiraz showing firm spicy plum and red Clarnette & is the hallmark of a good intense and spicy fruit characters. $25 Ludvigsen wine.” Olive Hills Estate elements layered with Grampians Shiraz Rutherglen Shiraz the red varietal fruit Kimbarra Grampians Grampians Shiraz Glenlofty Ridge Malbec 2017 HHH characters. $75 Shiraz 2019 HHH 2018 HHH Block Pyrenees Attractive oak lift to the Grampians Estate A big, well-made, rich A big, dark and brooding Shiraz 2017 HHHH nose with a big rich Mafeking Grampians and dense shiraz more tannic red fruit shiraz Still has great sweet fruit palate and Shiraz 2019 HHH1/2 in the confectionery fruit style with good grippy freshness with lively well integrated oak. $70 An elegant, complex style. $30 tannins. $30 aromas and an elegant and slightly extracted Byronsvale Estate weight of varietal fruit Ellis Wines Premium style more in the green Mount Avoca Estate Single Dry Land with rich and spicy Heathcote Shiraz spectrum with big Organic Estate Vineyard Central plum and berry fruit 2016 HHH astringent tannins. $25 Pyrenees Shiraz Victoria Shiraz components. $50 A solid hit of rich dark Mount Avoca Estate 2019 HHH 2018 HHH blueberry and mulberry Organic Old Vine Rich and full bodied Quite a tannic wine Buller Wines varietal fruit with Pyrenees Shiraz with a persistent length layered with elegant Balladeer Rutherglen powdery tannins. $70 2019 HHH1/2 of elegant fruit in the blue/black varietal fruit Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 A well made youthful cooler spectrum. $32.50 characters. $38 Good depth and Kooyonga Creek wine with attractive McPherson Wines complexity of fruit that North East spicy and peppery Grampians Estate Jo Nash Strathbogie sits in the blue and black Victoria Shiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE varietal fruit and good St Ethels Great Shiraz 2018 HHH spectrum with a good 2013 HHH tannic length. $37.95 Western Grampians Big rich wine with a high line of acid. $29 Beautifully aged wine Shiraz 2019 HHH level of acid and nice with attractive oak and Wine by Sam The A spicy perfumed nose fruit sweetness edged Glenlofty GO slightly raisined fruit Victorian Heathcote and a big tannic palate with oaky notes. $38 Pyrenees Shiraz characters. $19.95 Shiraz 2019 HHH full of good varietal fruit Blue Pyrenees 2017 HHH An elegant wine with flavours. $50 Estate Section One Masses of sweet red SWEET WHITE subdued red fruit Pyrenees Shiraz and black varietal fruit & FORTIFIEDS aromas and good length SHIRAZ/SYRAH 2018 HHH with some residual and balance to the 2018 A shy nose but a big rich sweetness and soft 11 TASTED palate. $24 and slightly grippy spicy tannins. $25 12 TASTED plum and berry fruit 11 AWARDED 9 AWARDED palate. $45 Tahbilk Nagambie Clarnette & Lakes Shiraz “Fabulous range of “Another consistent Ludvigsen Reserve 2017 HHH fortifieds and also a high group but perhaps less Grampians Shiraz Light varietal fruit quality sweet wine,” varietal than the 2019s,” 2018 HHH showing some aniseed agreed the judges. noted one judge. Lots of oak here and a hint of pepper. “These are World class “Generally these are matched by dark Nice level of tannins. wines with topaque and ‘drink now’ styles.” brooding fruit $25.70 liqueur muscat unique characters with to Australia,” noted one Mitchelton Wines powdery tannins. $55 Blue Pyrenees judge. “Everyone should Preece Heathcote Blue Pyrenees Estate Pyrenees have one of these in Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 Estate Richardson Shiraz 2017 HHH their pool room – this is A big but well managed Pyrenees Shiraz Good depth and balance wine history!” wine with spicy red 2018 HHH here with brooding fruits overlaying dark A big brooding spicy fruit plum fruit aromas and berry fruit and fine influence obvious on flavours. $27 gravelly tannins. $20 both the nose and the palate. $60 46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
regional tasting Morris of Rutherglen Morris of Rutherglen Buller Wines Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Reserve Old Premium Calliope Rutherglen Rutherglen Vintage Rutherglen Grand Rutherglen Rare Grand Tokay Port 2008 HHHH Muscat NV HHHHH Topaque NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/2 Complex and balanced Great complexity “An exceptional style,” A sweet and syrupy with intense aged here but with plenty said one judge. It is style – very well characters of chocolate, of freshness, balance complex, balanced and made with excellent spices and pepper and and length. A delicious intense with rich aged complexity yet shows some good brandy spirit combo of raisins, toffee and burnt caramel quite youthful freshness. evident. $25 chocolate and Christmas characters and showing A flavoursome Wimmera Hills cake-like flavours. Very honeyed elements and combination of Estate Fort drinkable indeed! $50 some spiciness. $90 butterscotch and malt. Glenpatrick Morris of Rutherglen Morris of Rutherglen $150 Pyrenees Fortified Cellar Reserve Cellar Reserve Buller Wines Shiraz 2019 HHH Rutherglen Grand Rutherglen Grand Calliope Rutherglen A sweeter style with rich Tawny NV HHHHH Topaque Grand Muscat shiraz fruit, balancing “A joy to drink,” NV HHHH1/2 NV HHHH1/2 tannins and appropriate said one judge. Rich, Very dense dark A very well constructed spirit selection. $32 complex and balanced colour and a luscious style with lovely, aged with excellent green/ melange of caramel, characteristics and STAR RATINGS orange colour and great fig, dates and toffee exhibiting flavours nutty spicy development components. “It has of raisins and aged Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of layered with citrus rind- excellence balance and citrus rind with a spicy excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. like components. $50 style,” according to element showing. $150 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Morris of Rutherglen one judge. $50 Tahbilk Nagambie professionals and are compared in peer Old Premium Morris of Rutherglen Lakes Cane Cut classes by three judges. Rutherglen Rare Old Premium Marsanne 2017 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Muscat NV HHHHH Rutherglen Rare (375ml) HHHH a major mail-order business. “Wine history here,” Tawny NV HHHH1/2 Excellent colour and CD Cellar door price. according to one judge. Excellent tawny colours delightful, sweet fruit CDO Cellar door only. Great style and still fresh of green and orange expression to the nose SO Sold out. with lovely depth of with nuts and spices on with delicious flavours $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Christmas cake and raisin the nose and a delightful reminiscent of quinces characteristics with spicy palate showing both and pineapple. $25.70 Contact information pg 80. notes and aged honey elegance and age with nuances. $90 intense spiciness. $90 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Charnwood Estate in Mudgee is a small player kicking big goals with its Shiraz and Merlot. As small and boutique as wineries come, Charnwood demanded everyone’s attention when its 2009 Charlie’s Row Merlot won against some higher profile wineries in the 2011 Winewise Championship. Charnwood Estate is located in the Mudgee wine region of NSW; located on a historic property just 5 minutes from the centre of Mudgee and nestled at the foot of the hills in the delightful Cudgegong Valley. At Charnwood, we specialise in red wines and are particularly proud of our Shiraz which keeps going from strength to strength. For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 47
travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY as well as reducing its carbon footprint, waste, and environmental impact. For RedHeads, it is an ongoing movement towards sustainability that can inspire other wineries and industries to improve how they manage their waste and energy requirements. The wines are all sustainable, vegan-friendly and small batch. The RedHeads studio bar overlooks the vines, has comfortable couches and is open on Fridays and Saturdays noon-5pm. Group tastings can also be held in the 1888 cottage on the same site. See https:// redheadswine.com/ EAT & CHILL AT MAGGIE REWARD FOR REDHEADS MASTERSTROKE FOR THE BEER’S RENEWABLE ENERGY BAROSSA THE Eatery at Maggie Beer’s Pheasant REDHEADS winery – a recent Barossa THE Barossa is home to some of the best Farm – next to the busy Farm Shop – is arrival - received a special mention and won regional restaurants in the country, including the perfect spot to chill out in the Barossa a commendation for its work on renewable Appellation, Fino at Seppeltsfield, Hentley and overlooks a dam full of turtles. The energy at the 2020 Drinks Business Green Farm, FermentAsian, El Estanco, Musque, business is run by Beer’s daughter Eli Awards in London. Harvest Kitchen and Vintners. Beer while chef Tim Bourke also runs a program of cooking classes. “We are immensely proud of what we have Now there is another choice for gourmets achieved over the past year, contributing to with the opening of Lou’s Place at Lou Best known for his time at the luxurious a greener future for all,” said winemaker and Miranda Estate. The eatery is a new venture Southern Ocean Lodge, Bourke’s menu general manager Alex Trescowthick. from MasterChef favourite Callum Hann and focuses on simple pleasures and big business partner Themis Chryssidis that flavours. The menu might feature citrus- “After winning the Drinks Business Green fills a lofty space with arched windows and cured salmon, or fried chicken with lemon Awards for Waste-Water Management in timber boards and beams sourced from a and coleslaw, or more complex dishes 2019, we are thrilled and honoured to be former railway station and market. like venison with red cabbage or hanger able to add this accolade to the winery. steak with pickled onion and smoked Hann concentrates on Mediterranean marrow. The short menu changes on a “With the recent bush fires in Australia, flavours with the menu running from a “Feed regular basis. Native ingredients often we are painfully aware of the evidence Me Quick” antipasto and pasta deal to the feature, and other produce comes from for climate change and its potentially “Feed Me Like Lou” option that starts with local suppliers such as Alnda Farms. devastating consequences. To combat this, an antipasto, including house-made ricotta The Eatery is at Pleasant Farm Rd, we built a new sustainable winery in the and focaccia, then builds gradually from Nuriootpa and is open for lunch Thursday Barossa Valley in 2019, starting from just a small to larger plates. to Monday. Phone (08) 8562 1902. www. greenfield site.” maggiebeer.com.au/visit-us/the-eatery Fast forward to the present day and RedHeads is now fully powered through 100% renewable sources. Building the new winery from scratch gave RedHeads the opportunity to focus on accommodating premium winemaking 48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
travelbriefs Think dishes like ricotta filled agnolotti, Fridays and Saturdays from 11am-5pm. REFOCUS FOR ICONIC ST burnt butter, anchovies and walnuts; pea The family business – owned by the HALLETT and zucchini risotto with pine nuts and Rosenzweigs - has been operating since crème fraiche or pappardelle with duck ragu 1999, but the cellar door only opened in EXPERIENCED winemaker Helen McCarthy and thyme pangrattato. 2018. Rosenvale is probably best known has been given the task of changing the focus for its assertive red wines sourced from of Barossa stalwart St Hallett. Mains might include 18-hour cooked lamb several different regions of the Barossa. neck with cavolo nero, freekeh and mint There are indoor and outdoor seating McCarthy has worked at Taylors, Thorn labne; charred chicken with peas, zucchini, areas and grazing boards featuring Clarke and Mountadam and is now senior cabbage and pan juices or mussels with local produce that are available till winemaker and general manager at St Hallett white wine, fennel and herbs. 4pm. Rosenvale is at 467 Research Rd, as it aims to lift its profile as one of Australia's Nuriootpa. Phone (08) 8562 3533. standout shiraz producers. It is goodbye to Eat at Lou’s is open for lunch Fridays- the distraction of minor varieties and hello to Mondays with two courses for $39, five for SEIZE THE DAY WITH concentrating the bulk of energy to Australia's $59 and seven from $79. Lou Miranda Estate FRIENDS favourite red grape. is at 1876 Barossa Valley Way, Rowland Flat. Phone (08) 7800 3222. See www. SEPPELTSFIELD Vineyard Cottage has Alongside St Hallett’s two new vintage wines lousplacebarossavalley.com.au/ long been a favourite couples retreat in – the grunty, cellar-worthy 2016 Old Block the Barossa – and now the main house Shiraz ($150) and 2018 Blackwell Shiraz ($55) GENUINE FARMERS on the Seize The Day wine estate is also – the winery has debuted three new releases: MARKET IN THE BAROSSA available for groups of up to six people. the 2018 Higher Earth Syrah, 2018 Mighty Ox Shiraz (in 1.5L magnums for duty free sales, JOIN the Barossa community at The Barossa Set in its own expansive garden, the $210) and St Hallett’s most expensive shiraz Farmers Market every Saturday from 7.30- three-bedroom house offers relaxed to date: the 2015 Planted 1919. 11.30am at 740 Stockwell Road, Angaston. premium self-contained accommodation right on the doorstep of several of the McCarthy says the 2020 releases stay true The Barossa Farmers Market is a genuine region’s major gourmet attractions. to St Hallett's ethos with fruit sourced from the farmers market, with produce proudly The Retreat boasts a cosy fireplace in Barossa and Eden valleys. sourced from local growers, makers, and winter or al fresco dining in the gardens food artisans. It is permanently located on a warm night. It is a short walk from “The St Hallett winemaking philosophy undercover in the Vintners Sheds. Seppeltsfield Winery and Hentley Farm is relatively simple; minimal intervention and close to many local boutique cellar and maximum attention,” McCarthy says. A diverse array of stallholders sell fresh fruit doors and restaurants. “We tailor fermentation and maturation and vegetables, herbs, meats, speciality to each parcel of the highest quality fruit bread, cheeses, the Barossa’s famous The Retreat features a fully equipped to reveal the rich textures, depth and smallgoods, fresh milk, pastries and baked kitchen including breakfast supplies, local diversity of Barossa fruit. goods, honey, olive oil and olives, freshly gourmet produce for a grazing platter and roasted coffee and blended teas, gin and a bottle of local wine plus pantry staples, “With every vintage our winemaking team confectionery. tea and Nespresso coffee. learn more about the influence of the site on the flavour and quality of the wines. We are The legendary breakfast bar buzzes on a The sunken lounge room offers a large thrilled to be sharing some of our best wines Saturday morning with hungry folk enjoying comfy modular lounge suite, a Jetmaster yet in the 2020 annual vintage release.” classics like The Market Burger and locally open wood fire, and a smart TV. There are roasted coffee. two bathrooms and an on-site laundry. The St Hallett cellar door is just outside Long stay rates are available. For details Tanunda at 24 St Hallett Rd, Tanunda, and BAROSSA’S NEWEST see www.seppeltsfieldvineyardcottage. features a range of tasting experiences, as OFFERING com.au/seppeltsfield-vineyard-retreat/ well as regional platters. Visit www.sthallett. com.au/Cellar-Door. ROSENVALE cellar door in Nuriootpa is one of the newest tasting facilities Opposite page top right: Interior of RedHeads. in the Barossa and is open Thursdays, Opposite page top left: Interior of The Eatery. Opposite page bottom: Food from Lou's Place. Top left: The Barossa Farmer's Market. Top right: Helen McCarthy of St Hallett. March/April 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49
145 TASTED 111 AWARDED B AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY One of Australia's finest dual regions, wines from here rarely Z Wine [RUSTICA] Peter Lehmann disappoint. Generally known for its big flavour profiles, lately Barossa Valley Wines H&V Pinot as well as the big blockbusters, more refined wines are being Riesling 2020 HHH Gris 2020 HHH produced to cater to the younger market. Always a champion Quite a reserved wine, Restrained orange rind- region for shiraz and riesling, don't overlook fantastic grenache somewhat austere, like nose, good citrus wines from here along with emerging red varietals. aromas and flavours flavours and balanced in the exotic fruit sweetness. $25 SPARKLING Shanahans Wines Gatt High Eden Eden spectrum. $25 Evergreen Eden Valley Riesling Reillys Wines 1 TASTED Valley Riesling 2018 HHHH Gatt High Eden Eden Barossa Valley 1 AWARDED 2020 HHHH1/2 A lovely nicely ageing Valley Riesling Moscato 2018 HHH Bright and fresh green- wine with an attractive 2019 HHH Very lifted, very floral One quality example of a like fruit fragrances complexity of buttered Smells and tastes like nose with crisp and sparkling. and flavours with some toast, citrus and brown a crisp Granny Smith lively fruity palate. Not floral notes and some lime characters. Good apple and showing a hint too sweet. Chill it! $25 Gatt Barossa Valley spicy nuances with a acidity. $30 of pineapple. $30 Sparkling Shiraz good clean line of crisp Pewsey Vale Peter Lehmann 2015 HHH1/2 acid. $23 Vineyard Eden Z Wine [SAUL] Wines Margaret Dark brooding spicy fruit Barossa Boy Cheeky Valley Riesling Barossa Valley Semillon 2013 HHH fragrances and sweet Tilly Eden Valley 2020 HHH1/2 Riesling 2019 HHH Beautifully aged toasty cherry palate with a Riesling Aromas of peaches with Hint of buttered toast on buttery characters good line of acid. $36 2020 HHHH1/2 cinnamon notes. Juicy the nose and attractive, together with lively A bright fresh riesling palate with good flavour slightly developed, acidity. $45 RIESLING with a good balance and profile and balancing flavoursome palate. $35 drive of citrus/lemon acid. $26 CHARDONNAY 15 TASTED fruit characters showing Corryton Burge Kith OTHER 12 AWARDED a touch of pungency Eden Valley Riesling WHITES 5 TASTED and plenty of crisp 2020 HHH1/2 4 AWARDED As expected, an acidity. $30 Bright nose with floral/ 10 TASTED excellent result from the citrus aromas and a 5 AWARDED Solid group of wines region for this variety. flavoursome fruit driven ranging from ripe and palate with a good acid A mixed group of savoury to the lean and Z Wine [SAUL] backbone. $28 generally well-made tight styles. Barossa Valley Gomersal Barossa wines with good fruit Riesling Riesling evident. Heggies Vineyard 2020 HHHHH 2018 HHH1/2 Estate Eden Valley A delightful light Quite developed Purple Hands Chardonnay and zesty lemon-like with attractive citrus Wines Colours Of 2017 HHHH1/2 bouquet and lovely drive fruit and evolving The South Barossa Nicely lifted and well and length of varietal toastiness. Drinking Valley Pinot Blanc focussed varietal fruit fruit flavours with quite well now. $18 2020 HHHH on the nose with a solid, a tart palate that is laced Peter Lehmann Attractive confectionery well structured, palate with lively acidity. $35 Wines Portrait aromatics with a floral that has some fruit, Riesling 2020 HHH lift and nicely textured good vanillin oak and an Gatt High Eden Eden Attractive commercial palate layered with abundance of acid. $31 Valley Riesling style with lemon/citrus stonefruit and melon 2014 HHHHH fruit elements showing a fruit flavours. $25 Heggies Vineyard Still amazingly youthful floral edge. $20 Cloudline Eden with developed brown Gatt Accent Barossa Valley Chardonnay lime-like characters on Valley Viognier 2019 HHHH the nose and persistent 2019 HHH1/2 Interesting style that aromatic flavours with a A poached citrus/ has a delicacy of citrus good acid backbone and orange-like fruit bouquet fragrances with good some toasty notes. $30 and showing a good length and concentration solid core of spicy fruit of fruit flavours. Nice flavours. $19.90 acidity. $22 50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2021
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