Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2010

What’s your favourite wine accessory?Anyone drinking casually with me at homeknows I drink from an old, solid silvergoblet. It’s quite small, very decorative,delicate and a much-loved eccentricity. Itwas a gift from a wine lover friend.Have your wine preferences changedover time and how?My tastes have probably followed ademographic. In the ’80s, it was riesling(I still love Heggies); the ’90s, chardonnayand, later, sauvignon blanc. This decadeI’ve been devoting myself to discoveringAustralian sparkling and pinot gris.If you could sit down for a drink withone winemaker (past or present),who would it be?I’m sure everyone says Max Schubert. Ihave a wonderful photo we had taken atthe Hilton decades ago. He was such agentleman. We were set up for this shotand never had a chance to speak.What’s the one rule you always followwhen it comes to wine consumption.One glass is never enough! Oh, and tryto drink water - but don’t get hung up onthat rule!Describe your own wine collection anddo you take any measures to protect it?Contra is a lovely thing - just remember todrink it in a timely fashion. I find consumptionis the best form of protection.What’s the most precious item in yourwine collection?The last remaining bottle of pink‘champagne’ Norm Walker made for mewhen I married Mr Foster in ’82. No onemade pink sparkling in those days, howeverI had simply determined that I would havepink ‘champagne’ at my wedding and thatwas it (apparently Princess Margaret hadpink sparkling at her wedding two decadesbefore). So we approached Norm, whonot only produced the wine but fished outof the archives lovely vintage labels withkissing cherubs! Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 101

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELWhen Michael Platsis sold his eponymous seafood, especially live coral trout, lobster you. It’s not always overflowing - weekdayfine diner at the Riverside Centre a couple and Queensland mud crabs and you can lunches are pleasantly busy, with noof years ago and moved to the Gold choose the style in which you’d like it queuing required, and it’s then that you canCoast, fans lamented the loss of arguably cooked. Other firm early favourites are duck settle back and try some of the fabulousBrisbane’s best view from a dining room. dishes like Peking duck served as a whole dumplings and stuffed flatbreads that setThe vista was panoramic, spanning bird and carved in front of you. this Chinese apart from the rest. 189 Greyover the Story Bridge and down as far St, South Brisbane; phone (07) 3844 0088.as the floodlit cliffs of Kangaroo Point. The small selection of dumplings shouldFast-forward to late 2010 and the site not be skipped over - subtly flavoured Also over the river at neighbouring Westis now the home of the Rugby Club, shrimp and pork dumplings and san choy End is boutique beer bar, Archive, locatedformally located on the first floor of the bow of chicken and mushrooms make great in the bustling heart of Boundary St. Booksneighbouring Eagle Street Pier. starters. The flames come out for dessert and newspapers are the underlying theme with an array of ‘cooked at the table’ dishes of the decor, with two walls papered in The club takes up much of the north- that are bound to please large groups or old Courier Mails and walls of bookseastern corner of the site and is spread those looking for a romantic night out. Plaza haphazardly stacked on shelves. The barover two levels, with a large and carefully Level, Rugby Quay, 123 Eagle St, Brisbane; is made of thousands of leather-boundappointed dining room open to members phone (07) 3031 6031. books stacked like bricks to waist height.and those with reciprocal rights from Retro couch settings and a couple of poolother clubs. It’s at the CBD end that Sichuan cuisine also gained a tables create a hip space inside or you canthings have gone Oriental. Zen Central representative this year in Toowong dine on the wooden deck that also acts asoccupies a large, glassed-in space as with the opening of China Kitchen. It’s the entrance to the restaurant. New chefwell as a more casual al fresco area a modest fit-out but the food will take Matija Stefancic recently launched hisoverlooking the Riverside courtyard and you down some culinary roads less ‘beer-infused menu’, which even stretchesthe river. It’s the sister restaurant of the travelled. There are some recognisable, to desserts like a Belgian choc chippopular Gold Coast venue also named Anglicised dishes like prawn toasts and brownie with dark chocolate ganache andZen and located in Jupiter’s Casino. spring rolls but also more eclectic fare in chocolate beer ice-cream.The dining room is corporate formal, a range of offal and intestines preparedwith large, comfy armchairs and crisp Archive stocks over 110 Australian craftlinen-clad tables and a veritable army of using traditional methods. This is a chilli beers, one of the largest collections informally dressed staff. There’s a greeting lovers’ paradise so regular mortals should Australia, and the menu has been createdcommittee at the door, perhaps because beware that, in some dishes, the heat in consultation with Sunshine Coast brewers,of the newness of the venue, shaking levels are very high. 58 High St, Toowong; Little Creatures, and the Stone and Woodhands and exchanging pleasantries. phone (07) 3871 1688. Brewery. Savoury menu items include a tasting platter of Ginger Kegs roasted pork Once you are seated, staff take you on Also new this year and finally elevating the belly, Bluebottle lager-battered soft shell craba thorough tour of the menu and the wine yum cha levels to a higher point is Bamboo and Sunshine Coast chilli beer caramel overlist, which boasts some big names and Basket in South Brisbane. At peak times wasabi mash. All dishes come with beerappropriate ageing. Dishes are brought to you’ll find a queue out the front of the black recommendations and staff have a solid handlethe table on trolleys and silver-served. The and red space but if you have to wait, at on what goes with what. 100 Boundary St,menu is conservative, western Chinese least you won’t be bored. Clever design West End; phone (07) 3844 3419.but great care is evident in the preparation has put the kitchen in a glass square atof all dishes. There’s an emphasis on the front of the restaurant so there’s plenty Above: Steer bar and grill. of dumpling and wok action to amuse102 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

melbournegrapvine HILARY McNEVINSteer bar and grill, which opened on South or a suckling pig with crisp skin belly and opened on Smith St, Collingwood, creatingYarra’s Chapel St in early September with roasted cutlets. This is a seasonal menu a burgeoning hub of good food and winegreat aplomb is the latest addition to the using high-quality meat, including pasture- bars just around the corner from the alreadyArt Series Hotels in Melbourne. Following and grain-fed Black Angus and wagyu beef established Gertrude St. The room has a veryin the footsteps of other Art Series Hotels sourced from Victorian farms. casual feel - exposed brick, retro furniture,recently opened, The Cullen in Prahran and thoughtful lighting - and a very open kitchen;The Blackman on St Kilda Rd, The Olsen, a The room has a stunning design, with sit on stools and watch the chefs in actionhomage to renowned artist John Olsen, is a enormous ceilings, striking artwork centred while you dine if that interests you. Andhotel with luxury accommodation and great around a 3.5m-long raging bull sculpture the pedigree of owners and managementfood in its outlets, but the flagship restaurant, by Cezary Stulgis, and a five-panel piece here is very good. There are three owners:Steer, is striking a chord with diners. that takes up most of the wall space. front-of-house are Dante Ruaine and Jeff Steer is a sensory feast. 637-641 Chapel Wong, both with experience at restaurants While design is a pivotal aspect of the entire St, South Yarra; phone (03) 9040 1222;hotel and certainly in the restaurant, the menu www.artserieshotels.com.au. and cafes like Verge, Pelican and Nineteenhasn’t been overlooked, with the appointment Squares, while head chef Daniel Wilsonof executive chef Stacy Thompson and a Harry Lilai, who was with Cecconi’s was most recently at Port Melbournestunning wine list managed by wine director restaurant for the past 10 years (eight at gastropub The Graham. The experienceRaul Moreno Yague, who was formerly Crown and the past two as part-owner of this trio is evident in sharp, friendlyhead sommelier at Vue du Monde and was of the Flinders Lane site) has gone into service and food built on regional producea founder of St Kilda’s Entre Tapas y Vinos. business with front-of-house manager and a smart menu broken down into easySteer is made up of three dining spaces - the Luca Montibelli to open the Town Hall sections - Bites and To Share. It’s a freshmain restaurant, a bar and private rooms. Hotel on Johnston St, Fitzroy. The Town and modern approach which has alreadyThe menu is built around modern Australian Hall, which is its original name, has had set tongues wagging around town with thecuisine - that is, using great Australian many incarnations since it was built in the more-ish cheddar and jalapeno croquettesproduce - infused with distinctive, authentic late 1800s but the most recent have been as well as the tempura eggplant and prawnBrazilian cooking techniques, styles and the Purple Turtle and the Griffs Wine Pub. fritters with shiso - perfect bar snacks orflavours. There may be a Spanish mackerel Harry and Luca have taken over the whole easy starters. The bigger dishes to sharemoqueca (a northern Brazilian bouillabaisse) operation - there’s a private dining room in include a delicious, Korean-inspired dish the basement cellar, a front bar, back bistro of barbecued pork ribs with a spicy slaw and function rooms upstairs - to bring his and fat wedges of chilli gherkin or a ball of signature Italian-style of cooking to inner- veal tartare, which when cut reveals a soft- northern Melbourne, and so far, so good. boiled egg; there are toast soldiers to mop up the creamy yolk, and fresh asparagus The bar menu is classic pub food (with is a perfect foil. It’s an exciting time in a gastropub edge to it) - there’s tagliatelle inner-city Melbourne watching experienced alio oglio, a quality burger and fish ‘n’ restaurant staff put their individual stamps chips - and while the bistro menu takes on the profession through opening places it to another level, the food here remains like Huxtable. 131 Smith St, Collingwood; very approachable. There are share phone (03) 9419 5101. plates such as oysters shucked to order or a deliciously spiced, crispy-fired quail Above: Steer bar and grill. with lemon. Then the menu is divided into three main sections: small, medium and large plates including dishes like peppered beef carpaccio, prawn risotto and torta of farmed rabbit with spiced pear chutney. The wine list is smart too - a broad, well- priced selection - and the service sits very comfortably in this context; it’s professional but very relaxed and helpful. It’s good that Fitzroy - an area lacking in quality food outlets for many years - has someone like Harry Lilai to raise the bar. 166 Johnston St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9416 5055. Huxtable, named after Bill Cosby’s family from the popular ’80s television series, The Cosby Show, is a restaurant that has Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 103

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGSports and RSL clubs are on the horns food scored 14/20 in the Sydney Morning Armed with two spoons, we demolished theof a dilemma. Many of their members are Herald Good Food Guide, which is close rich yet featherlight pudding in seconds.getting on in years and mainly sign in for to the top of the rankings. The wine list is balanced betweena session on the pokies or to pile up their Australian and Italian and a Farnese pinotplates at the all-you-can eat buffet. So So we fronted up at The Italian Kitchen grigio really hit the spot. 93-97 Spring St,the managements have to think ahead to & Bar in a high state of expectation. Bondi Junction; phone (02) 9386 3217.attract new members and patrons who We weren’t disappointed, either. The firstwill not only spend more in the bars and thing we noticed, though, were the prices, Great Italian restaurants seem torestaurants, but whose membership fees which are very reasonable for the quantity breed on the North Shore these days.and relative youth will ensure the future and the quality of the food. The club is close The point of difference at Ormeggioof the club. to the ocean so I plumped for an entree at the Spit, though, is Brescian-style of kingfish crudo, blood orange, fennel food, the speciality of chef Alessandra Easts Leagues Club, an institution and mint. The fish was fang-fresh and Pavoni. There's no need to worry ifin Bondi Junction for decades, has the interplay of fruit, herb and vegetable your knowledge of the culinary heritagelavished $2 million on The Italian Kitchen seasonings truly added zing to the start of of the region is scanty; the names of& Bar. The smart space is a stylish mix the meal. My fellow diner chose the squid the dishes spruik themselves, fromof designer shades of brown and red, ink linguine, prawns, cherry tomato and slow-cooked tuna with green peas andmood lighting and fun prints of Sophia basil. Forget about holding a shell to your potatoes through spiedo alla BrescianaLoren and other legends of Italy’s most ear; you could almost see and taste the (a luscious spit roast of chicken, pork,productive cinematic era slurping up light saltiness of the ocean in every bite. rabbit and quail). A top choice for a weekend lunch and the closeness to thetheir favourite pasta. Appearances aren’t I give a tick to chefs who play with boatsheds gives any meal a seafaringeverything and the club’s powers-that-be flavours and texture, so I couldn’t go past air. D’Albora Marina, The Spit, Mosman;have also had the nous to entrust the the lasagne with Jerusalem artichoke, phone (02) 9969 4088.kitchen to the right dynamic duo. spinach, porcini and chestnut. The slight sweetness of the chestnut and grittiness A $3 million redesign program at the Danny Russo, one of Sydney’s finest of the spinach and mushrooms played Radisson Plaza Hotel has also yieldedItalian chefs and keen promoter of classy well against the smooth earthiness of the a new place to enjoy a corporate ortrattoria dining, assumed a guiding role in artichokes. Men usually give vegetarian shopping lunch in the city. The hotel’sthe set-up and style of The Italian Kitchen. dishes a wide berth. And there’s plenty pride remains the three-hat Bilson’s, butAnd on every plate you can certainly see the for males to choose from if they need a for a much smaller outlay you can dineimprint of Danny’s dab hand with seasonal solid helping of protein from the whole very well indeed at Bistro Fax & Bar.produce and top-quality ingredients that roasted spatchcock with mushroom, Costs are kept low with dishes such asfirst surfaced at L’Unico in Balman and prosciutto and thyme stuffing to grilled champagne saffron risotto at $25 andthen at The Beresford Trattoria. But, just swordfish with globe artichokes, zucchini seared veal loin with polenta and pineas importantly, Danny lured David Magill, and roast peppers. But the choice fell nuts at $29. There’s a separate entrancea colleague from The Beresford, to take on on braised lamb shoulder with parsnip on Hunter St to create that stand-alone feelthe role of chef de cuisine. David’s CV also puree, Brussel sprouts and pancetta. We for those intimidated or put off by walkingincludes stints at top-flight eateries such as didn’t have room for cannoli or tiramisu, through the hotel lobby. Cnr Hunter St andFratelli Paradiso and Ristorante Riva and so the waiter steered us towards the Pitt St, Sydney; phone (02) 8214 0400.he honed his skills with seafood at Flying budino di cioccolata with hazelnut gelato.Fish. While he was at The Beresford his Left: Budino di Cioccolatta & Hazelnut Gelato. Above: The Italian Kitchen & Bar.104 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHN1907 is an okay name for a restaurant, and a good bottle of wine can do serious complex. Burswood management tells meespecially when the number is part of damage to a credit card. A scallop that Rockpool Bar and Grill Perth won’tthe facade of the refurbished warehouse cerviche, avocado and cucumber salad only be selling $100 plates of wagyu beefit resides in and just happens to be the with mango dressing ($26) is an exercise and expensive local dhufish, marron andyear the structure was originally built. The in simplicity and freshness and an ideal rock lobster but there will be something forold charm is maintained in the restaurant, way to start a meal. A main course dish everyone, including hamburgers, musselsalthough an additional contemporary that punches many buttons for me is the and other more humble bistro dishes,expression introduces it to a new century. apple wood-smoked duck breast with all with the Perry touch. That’s a relief.This small, quality diner would be just as Poire William poached pear and glace Although we obviously won’t see a lot ofhappy ensconced in downtown Paris as ginger ($42). The thinly sliced breast the famous ponytail in Perth, we wish Neilin the chic part of Perth. It is surrounded is a desirable rosy-pink colour and has well in this new venture.by fashion houses, alleyways with their subtle, smoky flavours and a meltinglycoffee shops and cafes and has a couple soft texture; the fan of pear adds a Neal Jackson of leading restaurantof smart hotels close by. It can be difficult welcome tartness without overt acidity, Jackson’s in Highgate is off on a three-to find, especially on a dark, wet, cold and the ginger contributes a light, spicy week visit to Spain. Neal has used manynight, but Queen St is small and, with a complexity. The plate is only just tepid, trips to China, Hong Kong and Vietnamlittle perseverance, the side-entrance is however, and I would love to see this dish in the past for inspiration and to tweak hisdiscovered above the chic cocktail bar served on a piping-hot plate, especially food, which is based on his formal Frenchof the same name, which happens to be on such a chilly night. training as a chef. “I won’t be doing muchrocking on the midweek evening I visit. high-end dining,” he says, “but I’m excited The wine list is not too large, has mainly about tasting the dishes the everyday A number of industrial steel steps take me imported wines but has several by the diners are eating.” There is no doubt thatup to the restaurant door and to charm and glass, and that suits those who are not Spanish food is the rock star of the momentgrandeur. A stunning dark bay horse made adventurous or willing to spend big on and there will be interest in what ideas theof resin greets me on arrival and then there bottles they may not understand or enjoy. enormously talented Neal brings back fromare the luxurious upholstered banquettes and 1907 is fine dining, different and worth the Iberian peninsula - and whether andrich furnishings, white linen covered tables a visit, especially for a celebration or a how he introduces them to his menu.with fine stemware and cutlery, black and special night out. Trust you’ll find it. 26white photographs adorning the walls and Queen St, Perth; phone (08) 9436 9296. Mezze Wine and Tapas Bar has recentlychandeliers drooping from the ceiling of the opened only a couple of shops down fromlong, narrow main dining room. A bar area It’s no secret that Neil Perry will be the Must WineBar on the popular diningfeatures at one end and a side entrance leads bringing Rockpool Bar and Grill to strip of Highgate. The reports are that theto an enchanting smaller private dining suite. Perth; it’s the planned size of the place food is very good. Perth Grapevine will let that is a surprise. Opening in early 2011 you know in due course. Executive chef Nick French drives thekitchen and caters for about 75 guests at the Burswood Entertainment Complex, Above: 1907 restaurant & interior.when both rooms are full. His food is the Perth restaurant, the third of its kindhigh-quality produce and he treats it after Sydney and Melbourne, will be arelatively simply at the stoves. It is not whopping 200-plus seater. That’s big forbudget dining, as the entrees average a fine-diner, especially in Perth, especially$24, the mains $45 and the desserts $17 in today’s volatile market and also as there are other dining options in the same Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 105

adelaidegrapevineGRAEME ANDREWSRestaurants occupy a tough commercial Since Trim Hospitality Group took over - puts an interesting spin on the concept ofsector. Management issues such as decor, The Manse Restaurant, its position on multiculturalism. That said, Zucca Greekhygiene and desire to create appealing food Best Fine Dining lists has soared, and Mezze, which opened its doors only inand wine lists make a complex situation. this year it has clawed back the number 2003, won its fifth Best Greek RestaurantFactor in customers’ desire for all of the one position. A potent combination of Old accolade. The concept of sharing smallabove, plus expectation of a giant side serve World ambience, elegant table settings, plates of innovative dishes has capturedof value for money, it’s easy to see why exacting service and cutting-edge modern the public’s palate and eye. Modest pricesthese businesses struggle for success. To Australian cuisine has proved unassailable and an innovative wine list have helpedmake matters worse, there’s now a vast slew competition. 142 Tynte St, North Adelaide; their cause too. Smart, minimalist decorof dining options. This is the stage where phone (08) 8267 4636. with one of the best seaside views to bepunters clamour for directional guidance. found. Shop 5 Marina Pier Holdfast Shores,Which of the 796 Italian, 412 Thai or 55 Restaurant breakfasts can be boring Glenelg; phone (08) 8376 8222.Indian establishments etc etc deserve to be affairs, with a carte heavily fixated on cereals and bacon, eggs and toast trios. While Red Ochre Grill has longpatronised? What’s good, what’s not? Who Rigoni’s Bistro’s new management been popular for its sublime panoramacan deliver ‘the goods’ for a special occasion? decision to extend opening hours with of river and city skyline backdrop, punchy early morning starters has owner Ray Mauger and head chef Fortunately, amid the confused mishmash proved a smart move. Think poached Dennis Whetstone have this yearof print and internet assessments, the eggs with smoked salmon, toasted upped the attraction by securing theRestaurant and Catering SA association ciabatta with maltaise sauce, fresh, Best Contemporary Cuisine award. Thecontinues to unfurl its annual awards. While oven-baked croissants or smoked ham, menu reflects a clever fusion of modernresults from this members-only, not-for- slow-roasted tomato with provolone Australian and indigenous produce. Takeprofit, peak industry body may fall short bruschetta and you can understand your visitors to enjoy delights such asof perfection, it’s the closest unbiased, why it was this year’s breakfast winner. wattleseed-crusted emu or apple andprofessional guide to who’s currently on 27 Leigh St, city; phone (08) 8231 5160. wild muntrie tart. War Memorial Drive,top of their game. From a mind-numbing North Adelaide; phone (08) 8211 8555.230 short-listed nominees, here are a few Brilliantly stocked, conversation-friendlywinners to sink your teeth into. adult bars, discreetly cloaked in a patina of After nine years operating at three mellow intimacy, are a rare breed indeed. different locations and winning six Best McLaren Vale is hot, hot, HOT - not just When warm ambience, knowledgeable Seafood Restaurant awards, Blancfor stunning wines but for great food too. professional attention and optional creative Bistro and Grill has mucked up thisFor the second time in four years, Penny’s tapas are added to its pleasures, it’s hardly mathematical symmetry by winningHill’s The Kitchen Door scooped the surprising The Apothecary 1878 was the 2010 award. Brothers Norman andpool as Best Restaurant in a Winery. This chosen as having the best wine list for 2010. Sam Thanakamonnum have combinedis an establishment with few bells and 118 Hindley St; phone (08) 8212 9099. subtle elegance with chef Norman’swhistles and simple, uncluttered decor. magical interplay of flavours and Sam’sClearly focus is all about food and wine. Auge took out the Best Italian Restaurant carefully chosen wine list. Level One,Head chef Ben Sommariva’s persistence award. Few surprises there as Terry and North Adelaide Village, O’Connell St;with premium local produce and clever Maria Soukoulis have spent 10 years phone (08) 8361 8988.innovation has paid off in spades. A true nurturing their establishment to this peak ofsymbiosis of finely crafted dishes meshed excellence. Auge is a player at the top of its Left: •Wattleseed crusted emu fillet with spicedwith the region’s best vinous drops. Main game. 22 Grote St; phone (08) 8410 9332. pear, celeriac, puy lentils & native currant glaze.Rd. McLaren Vale; phone (08) 8556 4000. Right: •Thai crocodile and watermelon salad. Goodlife Organic Pizza at Glenelg © Red Ochre Grill, photography Ann Oliver. has been winning top state awards (alternating with its Hutt St sibling) since 2004. Originality, perfect timing and unrelenting consistency have ensured that the Greenrod brothers march strongly forward as leaders of their genre. Fabulous flavours created with genuine organic produce are now flying the flag for carbon-neutral status. How smart can you get? Cnr Jetty Rd and Moseley St; phone (08) 8376 5900. It’s curious that Adelaide’s Greek restaurant with the most awards is owned and run by one English and two Italian chefs106 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

the wine & spirit insiderSpecial Edition 2010 Issue 115 FREE COPY&new releasesINTHIS ISSUE THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A top 40 PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE best wine buys LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. under $20 Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

355 TASTED202 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESThis tasting featured some excellent shiraz recommendations Winery Road Brut OTHER WHITEacross the board, plus a very strong range of chardonnay wines Cuvee NV HHH BLENDSthat should make people stand up and take notice. With the festive Simple, pleasant floral/season looming there are also some nice sparkling quaffers, maybe sweet melon aromas. 11 TASTEDnot up to Champagne standard, but you can't beat the price! Good flavour length and 3 AWARDED bright acidity. $8SPARKLING Currency Creek Brown Brothers Catching Thieves Too many simple, Estate Reserve Extra Dry King Valley Margaret River 'washed out' wines17 TASTED Brut Pinot Noir Prosecco NV HHH1/2 Sparkling Sauvignon or those showing11 AWARDED Chardonnay Light and elegant Blanc NV HHH early development. NV HHH1/2 light fruit bouquet Lifted citrus nose with A disappointing group.Lots of simple but Fragrances of rose with some yeasty lavender-like notes, andpleasant, easy-drinking petals lift off the nose. overtones. Similar palate. broad, grassy gooseberry Element ofwines offering Persistent pinot palate Has ageing potential. flavours. $16.99 Sandalford Westerngood quaffing. with some strawberries Fox Creek Vixen Australia Classic and cream and yeasty 3-5 $17.90 McLaren Vale White 2010 HHH1/2 complexity. $17 Sparkling Red Crisp, lively quaffer with NV HHH fresh, lifted, grassy/ Thick, tarry, licorice nose gooseberry aromas and and assertive, tannic, flavours. \"Great in bucket- plum palate with quite loads this summer,\" said tart acidity. $22.50 one judge. $13.95 Andrew Peace Jarrah Ridge Wines Victoria Sparkling Marginata Swan Chardonnay Pinot Valley Classic White 2010 HHH 2010 HHH Young and fresh, with Floral/citrus nose attractive floral fruit with a cheesy note. and green acidity to Nicely balanced balance. $15 palate - interesting Bethany Cuvee complexity. $13 Eden Valley Sandalford Margaret Chardonnay Pinot River Classic Dry Noir Brut 2008 HHH White 2010 HHH Interesting aromas of Complex, full-flavoured peanut paste and a style with lifted, complex honeyed/yeasty herbaceous fruit and palate. $28 crisp acidity. $18.99Rocland Duck Pauletts Trillians Carpene Malvolti Clover Hill OTHER WHITEDuck Goose Polish Hill River Clare Extra Dry Italy Pipers River VARIETALSSouth Australia Valley Sparkling Brut Prosecco DOCG Tasmania MethodeSparkling Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 NV HHH Traditionnelle 23 TASTEDCabernet NV HHHH Mature notes Light, flowery bouquet, 2006 HHH 12 AWARDEDRich aromas of fruit developing on the citrus/ persistent mousse and Big, full-flavoured winecake, malt and vanilla, melon nose. Powerful, well-rounded palate with with powerful aged Still appears to be lotswith some lovely long, aged, ripe fruit flavours crisp lime acidity. $19.99 fruit and yeast autolysis of confusion in terms ofsweet plum flavours with good acid level to complexity. $46.99 style, particularly with theand approachable balance. $19.95 pinot gris/grigio wines.tannins. Needs Peking Some nice drinkersduck! $16.99 among the alternative varieties, which are worth persevering with.108 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine crazy — we nose best — Squealing Pig Matua Valley New Zealand SparklingSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc$1899 $2099 Yellowglen Madfish SidewaysBella Bianco Sauvignon Blanc$1699 $1999Blue Cutting Road Pirie Cabernet Merlot Pinot Noir$1499 $2299winecrazy.com.au

NEW RELEASES K1 by Geoff Hardy SAUVIGNON Bellarmine Goose Chase Adelaide Hills Arneis BLANC Pemberton Margaret River 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Apricot and peaches on 28 TASTED 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH nose and palate, with 14 AWARDED \"Would be easy to Extremely grassy wine. hints of lychees and drink multiple glasses,\" Very obvious varietal some tropical notes. $20 The judges found this suggested one judge definition with rich Capercaillie group quite a mixed bag. of this delicate, vibrant, aromas and intense Hunter Valley The 2010 vintage seems grassy/tropical wine. $20 flavours. $12.50 Gewurztraminer to be coming up short 2010 HHH in flavour, although the Wirra Wirra Hiding Trentham Sauvignon Interesting musky/ cooler regions performed Champion Adelaide Blanc 2010 HHH rose petal nose and better, as did the Hills Sauvignon Tight, elegant and distinctive oily, lychee- obligatory Kiwi wines! Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 'feminine' but full of flavoured palate. $22 Great tropical intensity, flavour. Real crowd Boschendal McWilliam's Mount with gooseberry aromas pleaser. $14 Coastal Region Pleasant Florence and a palate that has Henley Hill Yarra South Africa Chenin Adelaide Hills delicacy and weight in Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc equal measure. $22 Blanc 2010 HHH Balanced and 2010 HHHH Interesting mid-Barossa Ranges flavoursome but still Perfectly balanced varietal weight quaffer.Vineyards Blue very young, with with herbaceous nose and Spicy/herbal bouquetRock Wines Eden pleasant citrus and light intense, persistent, green and quite a complexValley Viognier melon fruit. $25 gooseberry flavours. flavour profile. $182010 HHH1/2 Coriole Vineyards Drinking well now andExotic, spicy, pome fruit McLaren Vale Fiano has cellaring potential. Ferngrove Franklandfragrances leading to an 2010 HHH River Sauvignoninteresting herbal/citrus Simple, tight, flowery 3-5 $17.99 Blanc 2010 HHHpalate that time will lime/lemon style with Pleasant perfumed/floralmagnify. $15 potential to develop Jackson Estate nose and crisp, clean,Yalumba The well. Crisp finish. $25 Stich Marlborough gooseberry, capsicumY Series South Ghost Rock Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and lime flavours. $19.99Australia Viognier Ol'Man's Ghost 2010 HHHH2009 HHH1/2 Tasmania Pinot Gris Powerful green Balgownie EstateSmoky and savoury on 2010 HHH gooseberry bouquet Black Label Yarrathe nose, with lovely Attractive and complex with delicate grassy lift. Valley Sauvignonearthiness and nicely lemon, lime and green Wonderful balance of juicy Blanc 2010 HHHbalanced palate with apple wine. Needs time passionfruit/pineapple Crisp, light, herbaceousdefined complexity of to settle. $26 flavours. Intense and quaffer that's delicate,fruit flavours. $12.95 Tim Smith Wines structured. $22 feminine and very wellRedbank Sunday Adelaide Hills balanced. $24Morning King Valley Viognier 2010 HHH Kumkani CoastalPinot Gris 2010 HHH Florals, spices and talc Region South Africa Barossa Ranges Lost Valley WineryLifted, aromatic nose on the nose, and apricots Sauvignon Blanc Vineyards Blue Rock Mountain Countrywith a hint of pears. and spices in the mouth. 2009 HHHH Wines Eden Valley Central VictoriaSimple apple and pear Needs time. $28 Interesting approach Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blancflavours and crisp Lost Valley Winery to this style. Smell of 2010 HHH 2010 HHHacidity. $24.95 Mountain Country orange blossoms and Tropical aromas mingle Different style withOakover Wines Central Victoria tinned peas and has with grassy/citrus notes. \"broader horizons\".Swan Valley Cortese 2009 HHH sweet, fleshy citrus Heavyweight palate with Smokiness to theVerdelho 2010 HHH Interesting nutty/herbal flavours. Showing some soft gooseberry/melon nose and lemon butterBright citrus bouquet fragrances with long, nice aged notes. $20 flavours. $15 flavours. $24with tropical elements. simple, white peachCrisp lemon/melon flavours. $25 Looking Glasspalate has a hint of Marlboroughresidual sugar. $12.99 Sauvignon Blanc Peter SimicTassell Park 2010 HHH1/2 Editor/publisher WinestateWines Margaret Excellent varietal Magazine. More than 35 years’River Chenin Blanc expression with sweet, experience in the wine industry.2010 HHH herbaceous aromas and Formerly founding publisher ofHerbaceous, briar bush intense and complex a US wine magazine, manageraromas with a delicate green gooseberry of the SA Wine Informationnote of figs and limes; flavours. $19 Bureau, and wine educator withsame for the palate. $18 Regency College of TAFE in SA. Peter is also a regular wine commentator on national radio and television programs.110 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingStella Bella Lost Valley Winery Howard Park Great Grant Burge BarossaMargaret River Mountain Country Southern Riesling Semillon SauvignonSauvignon Blanc Central Victoria 2010 HHH Blanc 2009 HHHH2010 HHH Riesling 2010 HHH Light floral/spice nose Balanced wine withDelicate tropical bouquet Broad, spicy nose and and austere lemon acid clean buttery/lemon/and very delicate, crisp intense apricot flavours flavours. \"Worth ageing.\" hay varietal charactersand refreshing palate. $24 on a fleshy palate with an coming through. Lovely astringent finish. $19.95 5+ $27 complexity. Great nowSAUVIGNON Bellarmine or cellar it to enjoy evenBLANC Pemberton Riesling SEMILLON more later. 3-5 $18SEMILLON 2010 HHH & BLENDS Touch of citrus blossom Brokenwood ILR8 TASTED to the nose. Very 20 TASTED Reserve Hunter2 AWARDED pleasant, intense, limey 11 AWARDED Valley Semillon palate. $20 2005 HHHH Semillon has great ageing Delicate aged varietalTassell Park potential, as evidenced aromas of lemon andWines Margaret by the top wines in hay. Palate still austere,River Sauvignon this category, although with fresh primary citrusBlanc Semillon a few of the younger fruit flavours that are still ones let themselves fresh and intense. $45 down by showing2010 HHH1/2 early development.Crisp, lively aperitif stylewith delicate grassy/ McWilliam's Mounttropical fruit. Offers Trevelen Farm Great Pleasant Elizabethexcellent cellaring Southern Riesling Cellar Aged Hunterpotential. 5+ $22 2010 HHH1/2 Valley Semillon Different and interesting 2005 HHHHHPlantagenet Hazard wine, nicely textured Lovely deep golden,Hill Western Australia and with genuine pristine, aged varietalSauvignon Blanc varietal characters. Lolly- smelling of honey, nutsSemillon 2010 HHH like floral nose and citrus and stone-fruits andNice complexity flavours. $25 with an amazing lengthand intensity of true and balance of complex,citrus/herbal varietal Heggies Vineyard developed, seamlesslycharacters. $13 Eden Valley Riesling integrated flavours. 2010 HHHRIESLING Nice spicy/floral bouquet 3-5 $22.99 and long, lean and crisp,20 TASTED citrusy palate. $19.95 Tassell Park Wines Private Bin Margaret9 AWARDED Looking Glass Pauletts Polish Hill River Semillon River Clare Valley Sauvignon Blanc Watervale Riesling Riesling 2010 HHH 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Floral and lime characters Very toasty, oak-driven\"Far too many short, Lovely tight, green mingle on the nose and wine with an interestingbroad wines here,\" apple/floral style. Good give intense flavours on nose and very intense,agreed the judges. The drinking now and with the palate. $20 but austere, grapefruit/ Preveli Margaretbetter wines showed excellent cellaring tropical flavours. Great River Semillongreater freshness, albeit potential. 5+ $19 potential for ageing. $32 Sauvignon Blancin a leaner mineral style. Tim McNeil 2010 HHH1/2Some of those made The Blok Estate Wines Watervale Punchy lemon/for early drinking may Coonawarra Riesling Clare Valley Riesling gooseberry aromas andimprove with some 2010 HHH 2010 HHH great length and depth offurther ageing. Smells floral, with talcum One for cellaring! Lovely delicate lemon sherbet notes and a fleshy lime/lemon characters and lime juice flavours. brown lime palate. Good persist for the length of drinking. $18.50 the wine. 5+ $21 3-5 $18.95 David Bowley Nick Haselgrove JUDGES Owner/winemaker for Winemaker/Director of Vinteloper Wines. Formerly Adelaide Winemakers Mark Cooper technical auditor for the producing wines for Blackbilly, Senior winemaker with Australian Wine & Brandy James Haselgrove and The Treasury Wine Estates. Corporation (AWBC). Has Old Faithful wines in McLaren Has had extensive previous previous experience as Vale. Formerly winemaker winemaking experience a winemaker at Simeon Tinlins and Haselgrove. with Jim Barry Wines, McGuigan in Loxton and A ‘flying winemaker’ from Windowrie, Hardy Wine also Orlando Wyndham. 1993-95. Judge at Hobart for Company and Orlando Conducted a vintage in 3 years and associate judge Wyndham. Completed Burgundy in 2003. at Adelaide in 1996-97. the AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course in 2006. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 111

NEW RELEASESMcWilliam's CHARDONNAY Forest Hill VineyardMount Pleasant Block 8 MountElizabeth Hunter 26 TASTED Barker ChardonnayValley Semillon 22 AWARDED 2008 HHHH2010 HHH1/2 Good use of oak minglingPleasant apple Very strong and with lovely cool-climateblossom-like bouquet, consistent class, with fruit and excellent acidand intense apple/ most of the wines spine. \"A curio that willpear flavours perfectly recommended. Lots puzzle,\" teased one ofbalanced with the crisp of well-balanced wines the judges. $45acidity. $17.99 made for early drinking rather than long cellaring.Ballast Stone The best here hadSteeple Jack South the quality of fruit andAustralia Semillon also attention to detail bySauvignon Blanc the winemakers.2010 HHHClean, spicy citrusnose and elegant,mid-weight, dry whiteflavours with tightacidity. 3-5 $10Cartel Adelaide Hills Trevelen Farm Great Ferngrove Frankland Noonji Estate Hunter Paulett Wines StoneSemillon Sauvignon Southern Chardonnay River Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay Cutting Clare ValleyBlanc 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 No Oak ChardonnayMealy lemon pulp nose Complexity of melon, Lovely butterscotch and Pungent nose of 2009 HHHand pleasant, crisp cashew and subtle oak honeysuckle bouquet, cashews, peaches and Broad, developing nose,balance of gooseberry aromas. Lovely balance and excellent length cream. Complexity of and crisp, dry, melonand capsicum flavours. of fruit and oak flavours and balance of fruit and melon rind flavours fruit palate with tart on the palate, with a soft oak flavours with an balanced by bright acidity. $16 3-5 $13 tannin finish and lingering excellent acid backbone acid. $18 Ballast StoneCape Naturaliste aftertaste. 3-5 $20 to support. $19.99 Bellarmine Currency CreekMargaret River Heggies Vineyard Pemberton ChardonnayYallingup Semillon Howard Park Great Eden Valley Chardonnay 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc Southern Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Leesy nose with2010 HHH 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Crisp, fresh varietal with honeysuckle overtones,Nice smokiness to the Toasty peach bouquet Nicely rounded peach/ nice depth of peach and and youthful fruitnose, and tart, delicate, with some malty-like melon aromatics, and citrus fruit characters flavours with a lightgreen herbaceous development. Lovely good balance of fruit and supported by a good touch of oak. $17flavours. Drinking well retention of fresh peach oak flavours layered with acid backbone. $20 Evans & Tate Classicnow. $19 fruit flavours seamlessly crisp acidity. $26.95 Ferngrove Margaret RiverWillespie Margaret integrated with the oak Redgate Margaret Diamond Frankland Crisp ChardonnayRiver Semillon and acid. $40 River Chardonnay River Chardonnay 2009 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2 Complex wine with2009 HHH Melony aromas with light, Complex, oaky nose peaches and creamTinned asparagus nutty oak and a quince- with citrus in the nose and persistent fruitcharacters on nose and like lift. Good palate background, and a flavours balanced with apalate. Delicate style. weight with crisp peach/ simple, slightly malty, hint of oak. $18.99Good with Asian food. citrus flavours. $35 palate with some solid Due South Western Stella Bella Margaret fruit flavours. $24.99 Australia Chardonnay 3-5 $19.50 River Chardonnay Goose Chase 2009 HHHFermoy Estate 2008 HHH1/2 Margaret River Nose like a citrus FruitMargaret River Perfumed bouquet of Chardonnay Tingle and a palateSemillon 2009 HHH frangipani, cashews 2010 HHH all butterscotch andEarly-drinking style with and peaches, and an Pungent nose; caramel-like. Good oaka delicate balance of interesting, complex, interesting funky and acidity. $20primary fruit and light, peach palate with a characters with flavours Mad Fishoaky flavours. $22 warm finish. $30 of peaches and pears. Sideways Margaret Young and lifted. $12.50 River Chardonnay Fox Creek Shadow's 2009 HHH Run McLaren Smoky oak nicely Vale Unwooded integrated with the Chardonnay peachy fruit and 2010 HHH balanced by a backbone Estery/yeasty nose and of citrus acidity. $20 fleshy white peach palate with crisp acidity. $12112 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingPelican Point Mad Fish Western Redgate Margaret GRENACHESouth Eastern Australia River Rosé 2010 HHH & BLENDSAustralia Chardonnay Sangiovese Shiraz Turkish delight richness2010 HHH Rosé 2010 HHHH to the nose, and a bright 7 TASTEDCandied melon bouquet Deep pink wine with a palate full of sweet berry 3 AWARDEDwith a hint of oak. complexity of cherry, flavours. $19 The good were great andPleasant, fruit-driven mint and malt aromas and Koppamurra the others were ordinary!palate. $12.99 nicely balanced dry palate McLaren Vale Rosé with flavours of cherries 2010 HHH Trevor JonesThe Blok Estate and cranberries. $17 Vibrant salmon-hued Bistro BarossaCoonawarra Oakover Wines wine with a pretty, floral Valley GrenacheChardonnay Swan Valley Rosé nose and simple dried Shiraz Mourvedre2010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 berry flavours. $12.50 2008 HHHH1/2Pleasant, fresh, crisp Pretty, pink wine - very Very well made, full-and lively wine with feminine style with an PINOT NOIR bodied style with liftedclean honeydew melon attractive floral nose and plum and cassis aromasfruit. Has potential. a lovely strawberries and 9 TASTED and a palate dominated cream palate. $12.99 6 AWARDED by lovely sweet 3-5 $17 Sandalford Margaret Small but solid class blackcurrant fruit with River Rosé 2010 HHH exhibiting some nice lovely tannin balance. $20Balgownie Estate Nose of lavender, varietal characters Looking GlassBlack Label Yarra rose petals and hint rather than just being GSM BarossaValley Chardonnay of malt. Palate a nice nice dry red. Valley Grenache2008 HHH balance of sugar, fruit Shiraz MourvedreUnctuous, developed and acid. $18.99 Giesen Marlborough 2009 HHHHaromas and aged peach/ Pinot Noir Rua Central Bright plum and cassiscashew flavours. Holding Barossa Ranges 2009 HHHH1/2 Otago Pinot Noir bouquet and excellentup well. 1-2 $29 Vineyards Blue Full-on beetroot and 2009 HHHH1/2 integration and balance Rock Wines Trio rhubarb nose. Excellent Still a very young wine of juicy fruit, oak andFermoy Estate Eden Valley Rosé varietal characters that needs time to acid on a full-bodied andMargaret River 2010 HHH of strawberries and develop. Lovely colour. very flavoursome palate.Chardonnay Raspberries and rose cherries on the palate Fresh berries and sour2009 HHH petals on the nose, with intense spiciness. cherries on the nose, 5+ $21Leaner food wine with and sweet strawberry Good acid balance. Will with nice follow-throughsimple peaches and and Turkish delight age well. $24.99 to the palate andcream fruit and a good flavours. $15 balanced by oak. $25solid acid spine. $22 Skuttlebutt Bellarmine Margaret River Pemberton PinotDromana Estate Shiraz Merlot Rosé Noir 2008 HHHHMornington Peninsula 2010 HHH Very interesting andChardonnay Smells of raspberry jelly intense wine with a2009 HHH and has a good balance richness of tarry plum/Creamy peach aromas, of fruit, residual sugar and tobacco aromas andand green peach acidity on the palate. $18 flavours and a nice sweetflavours with a soft, entry to the palate. $25tannic finish. $30 Dromana Estate MorningtonROSÉ Peninsula Pinot Noir 2009 HHH23 TASTED Smells of beetroot and has a juicy fruit palate8 AWARDED showing great flavour persistence. $30Mixed bag both in colour Giesen The Brothersand flavour aspects. Marlborough Pinot\"Rosé is more about the Noir 2008 HHHvisual aspect than any Oaky nose with aother variety,\" noted one peppery lift. Unusualjudge. \"Vibrancy of colour flavour profile - the oakis a major factor in rosé's dominates with someappeal.\" Balance of sugar gamey notes. $30.99and acid is also critical Native Pointwith this style. Tasmania Pinot Noir 2005 HHHDorrien Estate Bin 8 Nicely aged wine withRosé 2010 HHHH1/2 an oaky bouquet andVibrant, hot pink colour, sour cherry flavourslifted, candied, floral nose with delicate oakand excellent sweet lolly integration. $35flavours with just the rightlevel of acidity to balanceand create a refreshingfinish. $14.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 113

NEW RELEASES Ballast Stone OTHER RED Bunkers The Box Steeple Jack South VARIETALS Margaret River Australia Merlot Tempranillo 2009 HHH1/2 18 TASTED 2009 HHH1/2 Lovely lift of violets 9 AWARDED Delightfully delicate yet and raspberries on the \"Winemakers are now has concentrated depth nose. Youthful, vibrant, getting somewhere of youthful berry fruit. blackcurrant and violet with these alternative Beautifully balanced. Has flavours. 3-5 $10 varieties,\" said one judge. potential. 5+ $18 \"There is something for The Palatine everyone here.\" Fermoy Estate Adelaide Hills Running With Bulls Margaret River Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Barossa Tempranillo Nebbiolo Big fruit bomb with 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 excellent integration and Intense and very juicy \"More juicy than intensity of nectarine/ style with excellent you'd expect from a mocha fruit characters. varietal characters of traditional nebbiolo.\" Has a long life ahead. cassis and plums. Very Powerful flavours and good length and nice a big, tannic finish. 5+ $25 soft, tannic finish. $18.95 A keeper. 5+ $30Chocolate Box by Haan Prestige Oakover Wines Costa San Tassell Park WinesRocland Cherry Barossa Valley Merlot Margaret River Vincenzo McLaren Private Bin MargaretChocolate GSM 2008 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2009 HHH Vale Sangiovese River Petit VerdotBarossa Valley Classic merlot with its Very peppery/spicy 2009 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2Grenache Shiraz complex chocolaty/ nose and nice depth of Lovely flavoursome, Excellent savouryMataro 2008 HHHH austere cassis flavours juicy wine with lifted food wine with a solidEarthy/rhubarb nose with delicate use of oak. tarry/stewed fruit, good plum fruit cake nosemingling with stewed use of oak, restrained and delicate herbal/plums. Palate offers 5+ $12.99 tannins and excellent blackberry palate. $38an excellent mouthful overall length. $22of blackberry and nectarine bouquet and Ballast Stone Tim Smith Winesblackcurrant flavours with beautifully layered spicy/ McLaren Vale Merlot Barossa Matarovery silky tannins. $19.99 peppery/cassis palate 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH Buller Beverford with warming alcoholic A baby that smells of Fantastic example of the Durif 2009 HHHMERLOT finish. Excellent cellaring blackberries and licorice variety. Has a bright fruit Deep crimson wine potential. 5+ $45 and has an austere, cake nose and an opulent verging on black.15 TASTED high-acid, berry fruit fruit cake palate with Unyielding and simple,7 AWARDED palate. 5+ $17 drying tannins. Good with intense fruit and cellaring opportunity. gripping acidity. $13Some good wines but Fox Creek Reservethere were also some McLaren Vale Merlot 3-5 $32 Beyerskloofwith angular fruit that 2008 HHH Stellenboschwasn't strong enough Beautiful fleshy wine Pinotage 2009 HHHto compensate for the with excellent fruit Very spicy/earthy noseexcessive levels of oak. length and some strong and complex toasty/ oak tannins. $40.50 earthy/herbal palate with a peppery element. $20 OTHER Coriole Vineyards RED BLENDS McLaren Vale Sangiovese 4 TASTED 2009 HHH Lifted, herbal aromas and 2 AWARDED powerful flavours with a massive tannin finish. A couple of nice quaffers! A keeper. 5+ $22 Tim Smith Wines Trentham Estate Barossa Mataro CABERNET Merlot 2009 HHHH Grenache Shiraz BLENDS Bright, vibrant, fruit-driven 2009 HHH style with good ageing Complex blend of 14 TASTED potential. Has intensity, aromas and interesting balance, length and marriage of rhubarb and 8 AWARDED structure. \"A fantastic raspberry flavours. $28 varietal,\" said one judge. Skuttlebutt Solid group of Otro Vino Western flavoursome wines. 5+ $16 Australia Red 2008 HHH Quite earthy and spicy nose and a complex blend of juicy fruit and herbal flavours. $18114 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Plantagenet Omrah Moppity Vineyards Western Australia Reserve Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 HHH 2007 HHHH 'Moody' fruit/oak Huge oak lift on the nose, bouquet and solid, fleshy and a very oak-dominated and flavoursome palate palate with unctuous, with soft tannins. $18 mouthfilling flavours and soft, supporting tannin Punt Road Airlie profile. Plenty of life left. Bank Yarra Valley Cabernet Merlot 3-5 $59.95 2008 HHH Has elegance and McWilliam's delicacy, with good Mount Pleasant integration of some Jack Coonawarra excellent varietal Cabernet Sauvignon characters. $18 2009 HHH1/2 Cassis fruit with a nice Haan Wilhelmus herbaceous edge and Barossa Valley well integrated with Cabernet Blend appropriate oak, fruit 2008 HHH tannins and warming Lifted fruit bomb of a alcohol. $17.99 nose and powerful, juicyHeidenreich Estate fruit palate. A bit over Balgownie Fox Creek Reserve Coriole VineyardsThe Old School the top but a very nice Estate Bendigo McLaren Vale Estate GrownMasters Barossa wine. $45 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren ValeValley Cabernet 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH Cabernet SauvignonMerlot 2009 HHHH Brown Hill Estate Excellent varietal - Very vibrant and youthful 2008 HHHReal crowd pleaser. Perseverance lots of vibrant, cabernet with an intense Syrupy black varietal fruitDelicate, classic style Margaret River blackcurrant-like fruit with flavour profile. More of a blends with powerfulwith blackcurrant fruit Cabernet Merlot very good integration savoury style, perfect for sweet oak and nice chalkydominating the blend, 2008 HHH of chewy chocolate oak further ageing. tannins. 5+ $28showing a sweet licorice Dense aromas with a and fine-grained tannins.edge. Complex on the licorice touch, and some 5+ $40.50finish. $20 solid fruit/oak flavours in 5+ $40Capercaillie The Clan a dry red style. $50Hilltops Wrattonbully Tonnellerie Rousseau Expert RangeMcLaren Vale CABERNET Père & FilsCabernet Sauvignon SAUVIGNON “Our solutions to your present and future issues”Petit Verdot Merlot in Burgundy since 19542008 HHH1/2 24 TASTEDBig, bold, high-alcohol 11 AWARDED piano® allegro® forte®wine with liftedoak bouquet and The best wines here Freshness & Fruitiness Roundness & Sweetness Extraction & Cosmeticsconcentration of sweet had vibrancy of retainedberry fruit flavours. Soft fruit and appropriate ouv10meilleurs rnew websitetannins. $32 use of oak. Some wines franceriers deCurrency Creek showed heat-affected, www.toTnoRnnOenUlelSellrSeieEri-AerUousseau.comEstate The Black cooked overtones, Visit ouSwamp Fleurieu while others had goodPeninsula Cabernet fruit and good oakSauvignon Petit but unfortunately theVerdot Merlot chaperone had keptMalbec 2009 HHH them from meeting!Good varietal characters- plenty of tomato leaf, Cartel Coonawarrasweet blackberry and Cabernet Sauvignoncigar box elements. $17 2007 HHHH1/2Due South Western Chocolaty/leathery noseAustralia Cabernet with a spicy lift. LovelyShiraz 2009 HHH depth of sweet fruitQuite delicate - very cake-like flavours withRhone-like, with the excellent silky tannins.spicy/peppery shiraz Drinking beautifully now,standing out. High acid with years of life left.level. $23 3-5 $13 Tonnellerie Rousseau Père & Fils Z.A. des Champy - 21160 COUCHEY - BOURGOGNE - FRANCE TÉL. 33 (0)3 80 52 30 28 - FAX 33 (0)3 80 52 59 52 E-MAIL : [email protected] - www.tonnellerie-rousseau.com The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 115

NEW RELEASESBallast Stone The Blok Estate De Beaurepaire Terra Mia McLarenMcLaren Vale Coonawarra Leopold Rylstone Vale ShirazCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Mudgee Region Cabernet 2009 HHH2009 HHH 2006 HHH Shiraz Viognier Pleasant wine withBig, warm, oak-driven Fruit still holding up well 2009 HHH1/2 sweet, lifted stone-cabernet - very juicy with powerful, grippy Rich, full-flavoured wine fruits, classy oak andand with a grippy tannic oak tannins. Great with rhubarb and berry piquant acidity. $16.95spine. $17 flavour length. Plenty of nose with subtle oak Gilligan McLaren ValeLangmeil Jackman's life left. 5+ $23.50 aromas. Palate chocolaty Shiraz MourvedreBarossa Cabernet and licorice-like. $28 2009 HHHSauvignon 2008 HHH SHIRAZ Warrenmang Lifted, spicy aromaticsMellow, aged cassis BLENDS Bazzani Pyrenees with a nice earthiness.and mocha aromas and Shiraz Cabernet Palate is rich with bluea palate that's still lively 11 TASTED 2008 HHH1/2 fruits and crisp acid. $25with integrated fruit/oak Rich, ripe, tannic wine Murray Streetflavours. $50 8 AWARDED with nice chocolaty VineyardsFerngrove The oak layered with The BarossaStirlings Frankland Solid line-up overall, John Loxton spicy mulberry fruit. Barossa ValleyRiver Cabernet with more sweet rather Art Series Has balance and Shiraz GrenacheSauvignon 2007 HHH than savoury characters South Australia persistence. $13 Mataro 2008 HHHVery toasty nose and showing up. Shiraz Viognier Yalumba The Brooding earthy/spicybright blackcurrant fruit 2008 HHH1/2 Y Series South nose. Full, rich, oakyflavours with slightly Langmeil Three Big-impact wine with Australia Shiraz palate but has the berrygreenish oak and warm Gardens SMG interesting sweet Viognier 2009 HHH fruit weight to match. $35finish. $60 Barossa Shiraz varietal fruit, nutty-like Simple, pretty, crimsonPeel Estate Western Mourvedre Grenache characters and soft, red wine that has goodAustralia Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2 fleshy texture. $14.99 black fruit sweetnessSauvignon 2005 HHH Elegant wine with spicy/ with balancing oak andRemarkably elegant, peppery nose showing acid. $12.95refined and balanced a hint of lavender and awine with soft, developed lovely blackcurrant andfruit characters. $30 licorice palate. $19.50116 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSHIRAZ Ballast Stone Yalumba Organic2010/2009 McLaren Vale Shiraz South Australia 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH19 TASTED Dense, plummy aromas Lovely jubey plum fruit18 AWARDED with subtle oak notes. aromas with a violet Rich and complex palate lift. Very youthful fruitExtremely consistent with good oak/fruit flavours with ripe tannins.group. Generally the combo of flavours. $17fruit standard was high 3-5 $15.95without being overblown- although a few did show Normans Conquest Pelican Point Southgreen fruit characters Barossa Shiraz Eastern Australia- and there was the 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHappropriate oak balance. Soft, supple crowd Youthful, mellow fruit pleaser with sweet plum bouquet and lovely flavours, charry oak, crisp fresh, lively, red fruit acid and mouth-puckering flavours, young tannins tannins. 3-5 $20 and good acidity. $12.99Thomson Estate Chateau Tanunda Tolley CellarClare Valley Shiraz The Chateau Single Reserve South2009 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Barossa Eastern AustraliaImpressive wine smelling Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHof blackberries, licorice Attractive combination Spicy dark chocolateand chocolate. Lovely of dark cherry fruit with aromas and youthfulfleshy fruit flavours with Leconfield Maglieri McLaren a nice spicy lift, sweet primary fruit flavours. McLaren Vale Shiraz Vale Shiraz vanillin oak and crisp Needs a little morebalancing cedar-like oak 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 acidity. Has potential. time. $13.99and grainy tannins. A Smells of stewed Bellarminekeeper. 5+ $20 berries with a choc- Vibrant, full-on, fleshy 3-5 $28 Pemberton Shiraz mint element. Pretty black fruit shiraz with 2009 HHH fruit on the big, drying, balancing oak. Nice fruit Full, fleshy shiraz - quite tannic palate. Licorice weight and plenty of tannic and with pretty blue and dark chocolate on poise. 3-5 $19.99 fruits underneath. $35 the finish. $24.95 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 117

NEW RELEASESReillys Wines Ryder SHIRAZ 2008 Coriole Vineyards Gibson The DirtmanClare Valley Shiraz Redstone McLaren Barossa Eden Valley2009 HHH 30 TASTED Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHBlack olives and 2008 HHH1/2 Fruit nose with a hint ofberries on the nose. 20 AWARDED mint and some yeastySoft and smooth in the Vegemite characters onmouth, with powerful Prune-like aromas lift off the bright palate. $24.50flavours. $14 the nose. Solid, fleshy fruit flavours mingle with drying ripe oak tannins. A keeper. 5+ $18 Trevelen FarmNiche Margaret Frankland ReserveRiver Shiraz Rocland Estate Great Southern2009 HHH Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHNice mid-weight Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Smells of new leatherquaffer with attractive Smells chocolaty with and blue fruits and has acharacters of cherries, some new leather firm, fleshy, tannic palatespice, licorice and characters. Firm palate full with fruit complexity. $25pepper. $14.95 of dark fruits with a big tannic hit. 5+ $22 Coriole VineyardsBrown Hill Estate Estate GrownChaffers Margaret Murray Street McLaren Vale ShirazRiver Shiraz Vineyards White 2008 HHH2009 HHH Label Barossa Shiraz Big, tannic wine withCharacters of rhubarb 2008 HHH1/2 blackberry fruit, toastyand blackberry fruit, nutty Closed, integrated fruit/ cedary oak and licorice-likeoak and hints of malt Trevor Jones oak aromas and well- complexity. 5+ $28and attractive forest floor Boots Barossa weighted, jubey, stone-notes. 3-5 $18 Shiraz 2008 HHHH fruit flavours with drying Rosenvale Old Rich, licorice-like aromas oak. $25 Vines ReserveCappa Stone Wines mingle with mint and Barossa ValleyClare Valley Shiraz Lavina Estate Gold mulberries, which are Murray Street Shiraz 2008 HHH2009 HHH Series Barossa Valley echoed on the palate with Vineyards Barossa Fruit-driven wine withBrooding dark fruit Shiraz 2008 HHHHH its firm oak and piquant Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 subtle, spicy, maltyaromas with pretty violet Nose a complex acidity. 3-5 $18 Lovely dense mulberry/ aromas, soft, plummyand lavender aromatics compote of blueberries, chocolate/coffee flavours and tanninand ripe redcurrant dark cherries and black Tim McNeil Wines bouquet and powerful richness. $39.90flavours. $18 olives. Beautifully Clare Valley Shiraz dry red flavours with a balanced palate with 2008 HHHH powerful, warm finish. Haan PrestigeMr Riggs The Gaffer retained vibrant varietal Black fruit aromas Barossa ValleyMcLaren Vale Shiraz fruit and appropriate use seamlessly balanced 3-5 $35 Shiraz 2008 HHH2009 HHH with complex oak Greener/spicy style withSpicy forest floor of oak. 5+ $25 characters leading to an Murray Street nice earthiness andaromas with pretty excellent toasty oak and Vineyards Gomersal good length of sweet/esters. Simple black plum fruit palate. $27 Barossa Shiraz sour flavours. $45olive palate with good 2008 HHH1/2use of oak. $22 Langmeil Valley Dense, prune-like nose Lavina Grand Royal Floor Barossa Shiraz and a full, rich and McLaren Vale ShirazPenny's Hill 2008 HHHH slightly porty palate with 2008 HHHCracking Black Vibrant, lifted stone- lovely length of big, Excellent vibrant, pristineMcLaren Vale Shiraz fruit aromas - a touch supple tannins. $55 varietal fruit with good2009 HHH toasty and with a spicyNice weight and density lift. Palate full of rich, Buller Beverford use of oak and warmingof varietal fruit, with rhubarb-like fruit with Shiraz 2008 HHH finish. 5+ $120well-matched oak adding good use of oak to Lively number smellingcomplexity. $22 balance. $28.50 of Christmas cake and with lovely fresh SHIRAZ fruit and chocolaty oak 2007 & OLDERNormans Barossa Murray Street flavours. 3-5 $13Old Vine Shiraz Vineyards Greenock 16 TASTED2009 HHH Barossa Shiraz Cappa Stone WinesSmells leathery with slight 13 AWARDEDearthiness. Interestingpalate - quite complex 2008 HHHH Clare Valley Shirazand with a licorice thread. Developing bouquet of 2008 HHH coffee, spices, plum Big, flavoursome, ripe Another consistent line- 3-5 $30 and cherries. Quite a fruit shiraz with massive up, with the '07s more tannic palate but soft oak tannins. A real angular and berry-like and flavoursome in keeper. 5+ $18 in flavour, rather thanTamburlaine Lavina Select Series the mouth. Cellaring showing stone-fruitReserve Organic McLaren Vale Shiraz potential. 5+ $55 Plantagenet Omrah characters. The '06s, fromHunter Valley Syrah 2008 HHHH1/2 Great Southern an excellent year, were,2009 HHH Big, powerful wine Shiraz 2008 HHH as one judge described,Rhubarb and milk smelling like fruit cake Soft and round and at \"hanging in there\".chocolate aromas, and malt and with a its peak, with nicelywith oak dominating big alcoholic lift. Great balanced, fleshy, sweetsome powerful dry red depth and integration stone-fruit characters. $18flavours. $33 of complex fruit/oak flavours. 5+ $90118 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

“Richard Hamilton has outstanding estate vineyards, some of great age, all fully mature. The arrival of former Rouge Homme winemaker Paul Gordon has allowed the full potential of those vineyards to berealised. The quality, the style and the consistency of both red and white wines has reached a new level; being able to keep only the best parcels for the Richard Hamilton is a huge advantage.” James Halliday, Australian Wine Companion, 2011 EditionChristmas Dozen Exclusive OfferRichard Hamilton & Leconfield Wines are pleased to offer Winestate readers* the opportunity to take advantage of thisexclusive offer, just in time for the Christmas/New Year period!To guarantee your delivery prior to Christmas place your order by Friday 17th December. Offer expires 1st February 2011. Table Wine pack - $183.60 (including freight) Sparkling pack - $189.00 (including freight) 2 bottles 2010 Richard Hamilton Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 9 bottles NV Leconfield Syn Cuvee Blanc 2 bottles 2010 Richard Hamilton Slate Quarry Riesling 3 bottles NV Leconfield Syn Rouge 2 bottles 2010 Richard Hamilton Gida’s Rosé 2 bottles 2009 Richard Hamilton Lot 148 Merlot Order ________ pack/s @ $189.00 2 bottles 2009 Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2 bottles 2009 Richard Hamilton Shiraz Order ________ pack/s @ $183.60Order Form Total Order $ ________________Order Date: ……… /……… /……… Phone Wk: Home:Name: Mobile:E-mail: CCV: Signature:Address:City: State: P/C:Special Delivery Instructions:Number :Expiry Date: ……… /……… Please tick box here if you do not wish to be added to our Mail List PO Box 370, McLaren Vale SA 5171 Ph: +61 8 8323 8830 | Fax: +61 8 8323 8881 | Email: [email protected] *Australian residents only, International enquiries welcome

NEW RELEASES Yalumba The MOSCATO Octavius Barossa Temptation Shiraz 2006 HHHH 7 TASTED Resistant Well-matured, seamlessly 3 AWARDED Wine Cellaring integrated aromas and a full-flavoured, fleshy Quite a mixed group Your wine is a valuable and palate with ripe, Ribena for those with a sweet treasured asset, characters and plenty of tooth, with the best to important to risk being complexity. $99.95 being good examples of ruined by poor storage... their styles. Farmer's Leap • Climate controlled Padthaway Shiraz Andrew Peace • 7 Day Access 2007 HHH1/2 Heart & Soul South • Alarmed & CCTV Lifted, rhubarb-like Eastern Australia aromas with chocolaty Moscato NV HHH with Digital Recording overtones and well- Luscious lychee aromas • Conveniently Located matured sweet berry and lovely balance of • 6 Cases up to Hundreds flavours with a chocolaty sweet, spicy fruit flavours • No Handling Fees thread. 3-5 $18 with a light 'fizz'. $10 • No Access Charges • No Fixed Contracts Moppity Vineyards Thomas Hardy Virgara Wines Reserve Hilltops Wines Imprimatur Stone Chapel South Adelaide Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Limited Release Australia Moscato Lovely complexity of blue McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH Thebarton fruits, mocha and salami- 2007 HHH Very flavoursome wine 08 8443 8022 like aromas, which are Caramel and soy with delightful musk echoed on the grippy, characters on the and lychee aromas and Brisbane tannic palate. $59.95 nose, and oaky palate flavours. $12.50 with nice blue fruits Milton Yalumba Single Site underneath. $66 Trentham La 07 3217 5555 Eden Valley Barossa Yalumba Single Site Famiglia Moscato Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Lyndoch Barossa 2010 HHH Sydney Lovely aged fruit bouquet Shiraz 2006 HHH Lifted lychee bouquet with a minty touch, Beautifully aged, chocolaty and fresh, lively lychee Artarmon and elegant sweet fruit nose, and sweet layers flavours with good 02 9413 3377 flavours on a crisp, clean of black fruit and oak spritzig and acidity. $14 palate. 1-2 $80 flavours. At its peak. $80 Brookvale Yalumba Single Site SWEET WHITE 02 9905 1177 Rigoletto Light Pass Barossa Camperdown Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 HHH 5 TASTED 02 9519 3799 Shiraz 2007 HHH Lovely layers of dense, 2 AWARDED Intense black cherry classy oak and fleshy Rozelle fruit; young and vibrant blue fruits. Soft in the Yalumba FSW 8B 02 9555 1099 and developing attractive mouth. Drinking well Wrattonbully Botrytis earthiness. Warming now. $80 Viognier 2009 Waterloo alcohol. $24 The Blok Estate (375ml) HHH1/2 02 9699 9333 Coonawarra Shiraz Lovely sweet botrytis Lost Valley Winery 2006 HHH aromas of oranges and Melbourne Mountain Country Developing bouquet apricots. More of the Central Victoria of new leather, malt same on the luscious, Abbotsford Shiraz 2007 HHH and spices, and a ripe, honeyed palate. A crowd 03 9417 1477 Black cherry nose with fleshy, tannic palate. pleaser. $26 a touch of mocha, and At its peak. $21 Huntingdale berry fruit palate with Peel Estate Western Stella Bella Margaret 03 9543 8099 high acid and dry oak. $27 Australia Shiraz River Pink Muscat Ivanhoe 2003 HHH 2010 (375ml) HHH 03 9497 5900 Gibson Reserve Syrupy cola/prune- Lovely pink hues, soft Barossa Shiraz like aromas and a lychee aromas and long, Port Melbourne 2007 HHH mature, fleshy and lingering, zesty, sweet 03 9646 7766 Smoky nose of aged complex palate. sherbety flavours. $19 fruit and oak. Simple, Holding up well. $35 Ph: 1800 658 855 high-acid palate with www.kss.com.au sour cherry flavours. $40120 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Forest Hill Vineyard Block 9 Mount Barker Shiraz 2007 HHH Tight, subdued nose. Bright, fleshy palate full of good, juicy varietal fruit. $65

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TOP 40Alta Adelaide Hills Beelgara Estate Karanto Taylors PromisedPinot Grigio 2009 Range SEA Langhorne Creek Land South AustraliaSimple, steely and Pinot Grigio 2010 Pinot Grigio 2009 Pinot Grigio 2010stylistically okay! Fresh Crisp, clean, fruity \"Yummy\", zesty, Fresh, vibrant, fruit-nose and a flavoursome, lightweight with good complex food wine with driven style with ahigh-acid palate. $19.95 flavour length and some genuine dry, flinty grigio sound but quite light and complexity. $8.95 characters and some simple varietal palate. hessian-like notes. $17 Good wine. $13THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings.out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. Style tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such ascurrently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ shiraz/cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.124 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Art Wine Clare Valley James Oatley Tic Nepenthe Adelaide Moppity Vineyards Richard HamiltonPinot Gris 2009 Tok Adelaide Hills Hills Pinot Gris 2010 Lock & Key Single Slate QuarryInteresting European Pinot Gris 2009 Clean, fresh, elegant Vineyard Hilltops McLaren Valestyle with plenty of zing. Pear-drops and anise wine with good Riesling 2010 Riesling 2010Smells of marzipan and on the nose with toasty concentration of varietal Candied fairyfloss Lemon sherbet-likehas a searing acid palate aged characters. Simple, fruit characters. Well aromas and a tart, aromas and subtlewith intense flavours of grippy palate. $17.99 made. $19.90 lemon peel, aperitif- smokiness. Very crisp,pears and apples. $18 style palate; persistent dry and citrusy in the flavours. $14.99 mouth. $15.50OTHER WHITE WINES Reillys Pinot Gris 2010 best buys Interesting pear-drop aromas and a simple but well-Chain of Ponds Amelia's Letter Adelaide Hills constructed palate with a tannic grip. $18 20less thanPinot Grigio 2010Fresh, simple wine with a sound palate that has long, Trentham La Famiglia Pinot Grigio 2010 $lingering flavours and light acid. $18 Powerful, lifted, bright fruit nose and very good varietal characters on the generous palate. $16Frog Rock Mudgee Pinot Gris 2009Good ripe gris fruit producing pungent aromas. Barossa Valley Estate E Bass Eden Valley Riesling 2009Warming alcoholic palate. $18 Lovely soft wine with floral/lemon grass characters andGrant Burge Benchmark South AustraliaPinot Grigio 2010 developing some very attractive secondary charactersLovely refreshing wine that smells and tastes of pearslayered with honeysuckle. $15 which add complexity. Dry finish. 3-5 $18 Bethany Eden Valley Riesling 2009 Pretty florals on the nose and citrus sherbet flavours with leesy overtones. $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 125

TOP 40 Taylors Clare Valley Topper’s Mountain Churchview Estate Wise Sea Urchin Riesling 2010 Thunderbolt’s New Margaret River Margaret River Crisp, dry and England Riesling Sauvignon Blanc Pemberton flavoursome, with lovely Traminer 2005 HHH Semillon 2010 Sauvignon Blanc fresh, succulent, mineral/ Bright, lifted, perfumed Interesting, flavoursome Semillon 2010 lime characters. Will age nose, and sweet wine with solid varietal Subtle lemon myrtle/ very well. 5+ $18 palate with lovely fruit characters and gooseberry aromas bottle age characters generous texture. $18.50 and seamless palate developing. $18 with good flavour persistence. $18TOP 40 Boston Bay Riesling 2010 Schild Estate Barossa Riesling 2009 Honeysuckle and citrus bouquet with sharp, 'bitey' acid on ripe, tropical palate . $18 Pretty wine - quite developed for a 2009, with solid citrus pulp nose and nicely balanced riesling flavours. 3-5 $15 Bundaleer Clare Valley Riesling 2010 Attractive spicy/perfumed nose with a candied note. Wykari The Company Clare Valley Riesling 2010 Lemony nose with delicate floral overtones and Good crisp, lively flavour persistence. Well-made lovely varietal flavours. Crisp quaffer. $16 wine with ageing potential. 5+ $18 James Haselgrove Wines Selections Riesling 2008 Felsberg Winery Bell Tower Gewurztraminer 2010 Perfumed Turkish delight nose and fresh, lively Big golden colour with lovely complex, developing palate with perfect acid/sweetness balance. $19 bouquet and soft and pretty palate - some sweetness Summit Estate Wines The Pinnacle White Granite Belt Marsanne Viognier 2009 and attractive citrus flavours. Great drinking now or Very pretty wine with interesting earthy/savoury characters and a juicy, succulent texture. $19 put it away. 3-5 $15126 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Drift Marlborough McGuigan Tapestry AH Wicks Estate HungerfordSauvignon Discover Adelaide Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Hill FishcageBlanc 2010 Hills Sauvignon Sauvignon Sauvignon Hunter ValleyPungent aromas; some Blanc 2009 Blanc 2010 Blanc 2010 Semillon Sauvignonasparagus elements. Gooseberry and canned Smells like musk lollies Powerful, gooseberry- Blanc 2010Soft and juicy in the peas on the nose and and has a nice punchy like aromas with a Lovely varietal definitionmouth, with a good guavas and green beans tropical fruit palate passionfruit-like lift. on a clean, crisp and liftedtropical flavour punch. $17 on the palate, with zesty with a very fresh acid Palate full of lingering nose. Great balance of acid to balance. $15 backbone. $18 flavours. \"Bring on the lively varietal fruit flavours oysters!\" $18 with good level of acidity to match. $17.99Heritage Estate Wines Granite Belt Verdelho 2010 Plantagenet Omrah Western Australia best buysPungent, grassy characters mingle with fresh citrus Sauvignon Blanc 2009and spicy complexity. $18.50 Smoky, 'fume' style of nose - quite savoury and with 20less than some grassiness. Interesting palate - great length of3 Tales Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 minerally flavours with some fruit salad notes. $18 $Grassy/asparagus nose and spicy, tropical palate withsome residual sugar and soft acid. $18.50 Willespie Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Sweaty nose with nice mineral character, and juicyHeathcote Winery Cravens Place Coonawarra citrus palate with good acid/sweet balance. $19.50Sauvignon Blanc 2010Grassy and tropical on the nose, with a juicy and De Bortoli Windy Peak Victoria Sauvignon Blancrefreshing tropical palate with hints of residual sugar. Semillon 2009Dry finish. $12 Nose like lemon tart. Strong acid palate with some restrained oak and floral flavours. $14.90 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 127

TOP 40 Gilberts 3 Devils Skuttlebutt Otro Ridgemill Estate Mount Barker Vino Western The Mongrel Chardonnay 2010 Australia Red 2008 Cabernet Malbec Melons and citrus on the Quite earthy and spicy Merlot 2008 nose and sweet, estery, nose and a complex Great vibrancy, with good melon flavours with a blend of juicy fruit and length and concentration touch of gooseberry. $17 herbal flavours. $18 of black fruits and capsicum. Lifted nose and velvety palate. $18TOP 40 Four Sisters Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 OTHER RED WINES Smells grassy, with asparagus and lemon zest overtones. Palate a mix of citrus, gooseberry and Ballandean Estate Wines Nebbiolo 2009 green bean flavours. $15.65 Ruby red wine with lovely bright, fresh varietal fruit showing leafy/herbal notes. Palate still tight, with Watershed Shades Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc good level of tannins and flavour length. $17 Semillon 2010 Soft, well-structured wine with light tropical fruit Ballast Stone Steeple Jack South Australia Merlot 2009 character and excellent fruit/acid/sugar balance. $16.95 Lovely lift of violets and raspberries on the nose. Youthful, vibrant, blackcurrant and violet flavours. Cockfighter's Ghost Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2007 Soft, youthful nose with fresh fruit aromas and a 3-5 $10 touch of oak. Refreshing varietal palate. Good weight and length. $19.95 Mason Wines Granite Belt Merlot 2009 Medium-bodied merlot with fresh and spicy bramble fruit and long, furry tannins. $18128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Clovely Estate Woongooroo Estate Cartel Coonawarra Clovely Estate White Cappa StoneWhite Label Cabernet Bin 19 Cabernet Cabernet Label Shiraz Merlot Wines Clare ValleyMerlot 2006 Sauvignon Shiraz Sauvignon 2007 Cabernet 2007 HHH Shiraz 2009Balance of sweet/sour Cabernet Franc 2009 Chocolaty/leathery nose Quite sweet and Brooding dark fruitfruit with leafy-like Lifted, spicy, aromatic with a spicy lift. Lovely developed, verging aromas with pretty violetcharacters supported by berry bouquet and fleshy depth of sweet fruit on porty. Lots of oak. and lavender aromaticsgood tannins. $14 fruit palate with good cake-like flavours with Ageing well. $14 and ripe redcurrant flavour length. $18 excellent silky tannins. flavours. $18 Drinking beautifully now, with years of life left. 3-5 $13Punt Road Airlie Bank Yarra Valley Cabernet Plantagenet Omrah Great Southern Shiraz 2008 best buysMerlot 2008 Soft and round and at its peak, with nicely balanced,Has elegance and delicacy, with good integration of fleshy, sweet stone-fruit characters. $18 20less thansome excellent varietal characters. $18 Riversands Wines Major Mitchell White Muscat 2009 $Ballast Stone McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 A clean fresh and very fruity fortified with a citrusyBig, warm, oak-driven cabernet - very juicy and with a zestiness. The flavours linger on. $15.50grippy tannic spine. $17 Rumbalara Estate Wines The Buffalo Granite BeltTerra Mia McLaren Vale Shiraz Cabernet 2009 Unwooded Chardonnay 2010Pleasant wine with sweet, lifted stone-fruits, classy oak Rich and soft, with zesty fruit salad and citrusand piquant acidity. $16.95 characters obvious on both nose and palate. $13Coriole Vineyards Redstone McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 Ballandean Estate Wines Vintage Shiraz 2006 Hot and developed with the spirit tending to dominatePrune-like aromas lift off the nose. Solid, fleshy fruit but showing good flavour concentration. $18flavours mingle with drying ripe oak tannins.A keeper. 5+ $18

How do Ferngrove make such great wines from Frankland River? It’s simple: a state-of-the-art winery that handles grapes with the greatest of care producing elegant and distinctive wines from the renowned Frankland River region. But don’t just take our word for it. “I will be most surprised if Ferngrove isn’t one of the major success stories of the first decade of the new millennium.” JAMES HALLIDAY, CUISINE MAGAZINE JAMES HALLIDAY prEStIGIoUS 5-StAr wINErY rAtING AwArDED 7 YEArS IN A row. Ferngrove Winery, 276 Ferngrove road, Frankland river Wa 6396. T. 08 9855 2378 e. [email protected] WWW.Ferngrove.com.au

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means 5 international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example,Wines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more we will have a winemaker judge from thatprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other region because that person knows the localclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the style. We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstanding High Silverprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the HHHH Very Goodwines blind and assign a score without 18 - 18.4 90 - 92 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 131

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts seems to be the average for museum wines of reputation but without a prominent history. LANGTON’S WINE LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (SEPTEMBER REPORT) LateSeptembersawthereleaseofLangton’s November 30-December 14 The third quarter of the 2010 wine auction Classification of Australian Wine V. Compiled (Sydney) market has ended very steadily, with prices using secondary wine market data, it includes December 14-January 11 stable and seller expectation more in line 58 shiraz/blends, 40 cabernet/blends, 10 pinot (Melbourne) with buyer anticipation. A stricter approach to noirs and 15 white wines. The Classification STERLING WINE vendor reserves has led to increasing volume comprises four rankings: Exceptional, AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE of demand and better clearance rates. Many Outstanding, Excellent and Distinguished, November 26-December 8 collectors, previously sitting on the fence, each representing a certain strength and (consignment deadline November 22) have viewed this period as a good time to market definition. The main purpose of the ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS consolidate or clear space for incoming wine. Classification is to highlight Australia’s best- December 7 performing wines on the secondary market. (entries close November 12) As is typical with the Australian secondary The elevation to Exceptional of Brokenwood GRAYSONLINE wine market, auction sentiment varies across Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, Chris Ringland Daily wine auctions (featuring a the overall sale offering. Rare Australian Shiraz, Clarendon Hills Astralis Syrah, Clonakilla range of red and white wines and wine is attracting astounding prices, the Shiraz-Viognier, Grosset Polish Hill Riesling regional and country-specific sales) overall depletion rate of pre-1975 vintages is and Torbreck RunRig Shiraz illustrate further now understood and even older vintages of evolution of the collectable landscape. Each (All dates subject to change, Penfolds are trending up in price. The famous of these wines is evocative of personality as without notice) and ‘freak’ 1955 Wynns Michael Coonawarra much as winemaking method, vineyard site Hermitage recently fetched a record $3457, and regional identity. Iain Riggs, Chris Ringland, while the increasingly scarce 1962 Penfolds Roman Bratasiuk, Tim Kirk, Jeffrey Grosset and Bin 60A made $3802. During the third Dave Powell have all challenged and broken quarter, Penfolds held several wine clinics through the mould. These Exceptional wines around Australia and the overall condition of are recognised by the secondary market for experimental Granges was surprising. There their individuality and difference. Classified is still plenty of life in the 1953 and even the Australian wines represent the centrepiece ’56 was holding together. Unfortunately this of the auction market. is all very academic as the wines are generally traded only as collectables. The 1962 Bin “I think most buyers are going with the 60A is holding up pretty well, but condition tried and tested,” says Langton’s Sydney is increasingly varied. The $600-800 mark auction manager Caton Hicks. “Winery reputation and vintage have a strong bearing on clearance rates and hammer price. Penfolds, Henschke, Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Grosset, Grant Burge, Peter Lehmann and Lakes Folly are all attracting solid demand.” While Grange prices generally softened during the third quarter, St Henri is on the ascendancy as collectors rediscover this enduring classic. The 1971 and 1966 St Henri achieved $776 and $1155 respectively. The classic (and expensive) wines of France continue to attract significant interest, with an ‘assortiment’ case of 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti fetching $40,251. The usual suspects continue to find buyers. Chateau Petrus and Chateau Lafite Rothschild are important performers and the China connection brings an extra level of market buoyancy. New Zealand pinot noir is a particularly interesting space to watch. This genre is gradually establishing a hierarchy of its own, with Ata Rangi and Felton Road the standout performers. For more information, visit www.langtons.com.au.132 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

ŒIDsn’otnitmtoimtePhyéoèurqviiusgiteend to1hen9lib9ra3ry?The Œenoteque is the name given to a selection of rarevintages offered to connoisseurs by the Chef de Cave,Richard Geoffroy. A tasting of the vintages he has chosenillustrates the various stages of ageing. Aromas, structure,texture... these wines amplify the characteristics of aparticular harvest as well as the unique Dom Perignon style. 395SOPFEFCEIRAL $ eachNormally $550 While stocks last.BONUS OFFERFree Dom PérignonChampagne resealerHAVE A QUESTION OR NEED TO PLACE AN ORDERcall 1300 366 906 or visit www.champagnegallery.com.auLic. No. 86643.

wine investment & collectingODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS really form the ‘bread and butter’ of most their wine collection, Graham Wright has a few(SEPTEMBER REPORT) auction houses and these continued to words of advice on the topic of ‘packaging’. “BeWith keen bidding on 1950s and ’60s vintage attract buyer interest at Oddbins’ September sure to keep the original boxes and/or casesdated fortifieds and a return of interest in a sale. Among this ‘group’ are Peter Lehmann or packaging the wine originally came in andvariety of wood-aged chardonnays and classic Stonewell Shiraz, particularly vintages from the always try to keep the front and back labelscabernets, Oddbins’ buyers appeared to be in 1990s, Rockford Basket Press Shiraz from the in good to excellent condition, along with thea particularly nostalgic mood at the company’s 1990s and 2000s, the very special Rockford capsules,” he says. “If the beverage comesSeptember auction. Other trends from this SVS series from 1998, St Hallett Old Block, with supporting material like pamphlets, notes,sale included renewed buyer interest in pre- Wendouree shiraz from the ’80s through to stoppers, certificates etc, keep them as well.1970 Penfolds Grange, especially from the the early 2000s, and Wynns John Riddoch. In the short term, this may not affect the value’60s, along with household favourites from of the wine, but it does make it more desirablethe 1990s and early 2000s such as Tatachilla Oddbins’ auctioneer and valuer Graham to buyers. Basically, it indicates to our buyersFoundation Shiraz, Taylor’s cabernets and Wright says buyer interest in foreign styles that the wine has been lovingly looked after.rieslings, early Eileen Hardy Shiraz, Richmond continues to grow. “Most decent restaurants, However, I do suspect that over time, asGrove rieslings and 1997 Rymill Cabernet. bars and even pubs are now starting to display the wine becomes scarcer, such packagingGood clearances were also reported for Grant imported wines on their lists,” he says. will add to its value. The harsh reality is thatBurge Filsell and Meshach and Greenock “Australians are now definitely comfortable wines presented in moderately poor to veryCreek premiums, especially from the late with this trend, as they appear to be a lot poor condition, are currently only getting1990s and early 2000s. Special mention more open-minded than, say, 10 years ago.” approximately one third to half the value ofshould be made of the current hot demand for winespresentedingoodcondition.”ForfurtherPenfold’sBin707. Clearancesarerunningata Imported wines attracting the most interest information visit www.oddbins.com.au.huge 90 per cent, making it a good time to sell. included Bordeaux greats like 2006 Chateau Lafite Rothschild and 1983 Chateau Margaux, STERLING WINE Supply of Henschke’s single-vineyard Hill of a wide range of Sauternes from the curious AUCTIONS & EXCHANGEGrace has been problematic for quite some 1998 vintage and Vintage Champagne from (SEPTEMBER REPORT)time, so a large influx of this iconic wine was Pol Roger, Dom Perignon and Bollinger. Not According to Sterling’s Lynton Barber, 2010welcomed by Oddbins’ staff in September. surprisingly, stocks of these imported gems has been a remarkable auction season, withWhile many of these lots were overlooked are currently in short supply. Vintage Port (the wine auctions providing the collector andby buyers, the latest vintage to come to Portuguese variety) from the famed 1977 serious wine drinker with great choice andauction, the 2005, did clear exceptionally vintage also performed well, as did quality true market pricing, driven by free-access peerwell. Strong clearances were also recorded Italian red table wines, especially the excellent competition. “Trends are difficult to see in afor Henschke’s Mount Edelstone Shiraz, 2003 Tignanello, the 1998 Ornellaia and the market dominated by loud trash talk and theCyril Cabernet, the Keyneton blend, Joseph superb 2001 Marcarini Barolo La Serra. A big doom merchants lumping the good togetherHill Gewurztraminer and Louis Semillon. selection of some interesting Loire Valley with the bad,” says Lynton. “However, we are whites and Spanish reds also cleared well. There are some wines and brands which For those looking to get the best value out of Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What134 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

wine investment & collectingseeing a process, constant and predictable, Blass Black Label, Brokenwood, Mount Mary magnum topped $464 and a 1994 Bin 389moving the success stories further and further and Leeuwin Art Series. The golden thread sold for $412, with a 2004 version fetchingaway from the basket jobs that the doom linking them all is they are well established $378. These results demonstrate strongmerchants give so much attention.” brands with a glorious track record. More demand for the well-cellared large formats. importantly, they are premiums produced The Penfolds Grange market remains the to the highest standards in small quantities. There were plenty of ready-to-drink wines,most visible barometer of wine auction These wines and many others not listed here with 43 per cent of quality cellared unitssentiment. Grange has looked very strong excite a buyer prepared to pay a premium for selling for under $100 per lot. A plethorathis year, with prices trending up across the a rare experience with excellence. of famous names such as Grant Burge,range of back vintages. The year is closing d’Arenberg, Elderton, Two Hands, Glaetzer,with ‘demanded’ vintages like the 1998 and “Never underestimate the budget the Peter Lehmann and Brokenwood also went1986 taking a breath from the highs achieved collective ‘wine collector’ has at the ready,” under the hammer at bargain prices.a few months ago. The collectable gems, says Lynton. “There is a large percentage ofparticularly the ’76 and ’71, are bobbing up high-value, celebrated back vintage wines With demand for Penfolds going strong, 32in record territory. Perfect examples with which are purchased to be displayed and per cent of sales were represented by iconichigh levels are very hard to value; they are never consumed. Some bottles selling wines including old favourites like Grangerare and the collector will pay well over for many thousands of dollars end up as from the ’70s and ’80s - the highlight was athe odds for a ‘museum specimen’. The trophies in collections - perfectly preserved 1975 at $1033. Plenty of interest remained2005 vintage of Grange, released this year, and displayed.” in 1988 Bin 389, averaging $115, and 43was a slowing influence, with a steep price lots of Bin 707 sold for an average of $154.and restrained reviews holding down back Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange Thirty-two lots of the always popular Magillvintage price growth. conduct live online wine auctions every and St Henri sold at an average of $107. month. For more information go to www. “Reminiscent of the 1995 Grange release, sterlingwine.com.au. GrayOnline sees continued popularitywhich also stuck at retail, savage discounting and limited supply yielding great results onhas been the only tool available to move large GRAYSONLINE iconic brands, such as Henschke achievingbacklogs of 2005 Grange,” says Lynton. (SEPTEMBER REPORT) an average lot price of $280 across Mount“The saviour back then was a sublime, GraysOnline continue to achieve consistent Edelstone, Hill of Grace and Keyneton. Greatmuch-publicised 1996 Grange, which got month-on-month growth in private cellar results were also achieved for Yalumba,the Grange machine back on track with a sales, with weekly sales of premium parcels Wynns and Rockford, to name just a few.full head of steam. Let’s see if the much- of collectable wines achieving supernormal ‘Packs’ are proving their popularity, with a six-anticipated 2006 Grange, to be released in results. Bargains are also still thriving at pack of 1996 Magill Estate selling for $773, a2011, can get the stars back in the eyes.” GrayOnline, providing an absolute feast for mixed six-pack of Wendouree fetching $767 the serious wine lover. and a six-pack of 1994 Bin 389 realising $604. Wines which have made good progress For more information, visit www.graysonline.against the tide of gloom include Moss Wood, Fantastic results have been recorded for com or email [email protected] (all pricesPenfolds Bin 707, Wendouree, Rockford, Wolf big cellared bottles. A 2001 Penfolds RWT listed include buyer’s premium). AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 135

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 1996 $95 2005 $48 2000 $70 1982 $240 1996 $60 1994 $75 1997 $75 2006 $55 2001 $110  1983 $240 1997 $40 1995 Not Released 1998 $110 2002 $95 1984 $210 1998 $60 1996 $95 1999 $90  2003 $75 1985 $250 1999 $36 1997 $65 2000 $95 2004 $75 1986 $350 2000 $40 1998 $85 E & E Black 2001 $80 1987 $210 2001 $30 1999 $75Pepper Shiraz 2002 $70 1988 $310 2002 $40 2000 $801990 $85 GREENOCK CREEK 1989 $240 2003 $30 2001 $701991 $90 2003 $80 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $460 2004 $30 2002 $651992 $56 2004 $75 Shiraz 1991 $400 2005 $40 2003 $601993 $65 2005 $85 DE BORTOLI 1992 $350 2006 $35 2004 $601994 $65 Noble One (375ml) 1995 $370 1993 $300  2005 $601995 $65 1996 $320 1994 $3401996 $110 2006 $100  1990 $45 1997 $190 1995 $3401997 $70 2007 $90 1991 $40 1998 $380 1996 $5001998 $100 1999 $180 1997 $3201999 $75 1992 $25 2000 $220 1998 $5202000 $75 CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 2001 $240 1999 $3802001 $70 Astralis Shiraz 1994 $46 2002 $400 2001 $3602002 $85 1994 $220 1995 $38 2003 $200 2002 $4402003 $60 1996 $50 2004 $350 Georgia’s Paddock2004 $65 1995 $210 1997 $35 1990 $1102005 $70 1996 $300 1998 $45 1991 $60  1997 $250 1992 $80 Chardonnay 1993 $95 Art Series  1998 $320 1999 $30 Roennfeldt Road 2004 $520 1994 $85 1999 $310 2000 $35 Cabernet 2005 $350 1995 $75 1990 $60 2001 $24 Sauvignon 1996 $70 1991 $70 2000 $270 2002 $45 1997 $65 1992 $75 2001 $300 1995 $300 Hill of Grace 1998 $90 1993 $68 2002 $330 2003 $24 1996 $200 Magnum 1999 $70 1994 $85  BASS PHILLIP 2003 $210 2004 $25 1997 $165 2000 $75 1995 $110Premium Pinot Noir 2004 $350 2005 $30 1998 $320  1980 $480 2001 $80 1996 $651990 $80 1999 $220 1981 Not Released 2002 $85 1997 $1001991 $100 2005 $320 2006 $30 2000 $210 1982 $530 2003 $80 1998 $70 2001 $250 1983 $550 2004 $75 1999 $851992 $120 CLONAKILLA Elderton 2002 $260 1984 $420 2005 $65 2000 $75 1985 Not Released 2006 $65 2001 $901993 $100 Shiraz Viognier Command Shiraz 1986 $950 2007 $60 2002 $851994 $120 2003 $100 1995 $95 1990 $65 1990 $120 2004 $95 1991 Not Released 2005 $751996 $115 1993 $65 1992 $75 1987 $650 2006 $70 1994 $85 1988 $5001997 $180 1995 $65 1993 $65 Grossett 1989 $6501998 $110 Polish Hill Riesling 1990 $8501999 $140 1996 $100 1994 $95 1990 $55 1991 $600 1995 $75 1991 $45 1992 $5802000 $110 1997 $130 1996 $95 1992 $45 1994 $750 1998 $150 1993 $45 2001 $100 1999 $55 1997 $80 1994 $452002 $145 1995 $50 Cyril Henschke2003 $110 2000 $65 1998 $90 1996 $45 1990 $95 Majella 1999 $60 1997 $60 1991 $852004 $120 2001 $130 2000 $70  1998 $45  1992 $85 The Malleea Shiraz 2002 $120 1999 $45 1993 $802005 $80 2003 $110 2001 $80 2000 $35 1994 $85 Armagh Shiraz Cabernet2007 $90 2001 $45 1995 $70 1990 $220 1996 $70 2004 $120 2002 $90 2002 $55 1996 $150 1991 $180 1997 $482008 $95  2005 $120 2003 $70 2003 $45 1997 $70 1992 $120 1998 $95 2004 $80 2004 $45 1998 $140 1993 $110 1999 $50 2006 $100 2005 $65 2005 $50 1999 $75 1994 $130 2000 $42Best’s Thomson 2007 $150 2006 $45  2000 $80 1995 $130 2001 $70Family Shiraz 2008 $120 2006 $55  2007 $40 2001 $80 1996 $160 2002 $70 2008 $40 2002 $100 1997 $150 2003 $651992 $85 GIACONDA 2009 $40 2003 $65 1998 $220 2004 $551993 Not Released Chardonnay 1999 $130 2005 $601994 $75  1990 $1001995 $110 1996 $95 1991 $75 1992 $85 2000 $1201997 $80  2001 $1301998 $100 1993 $901999 Not Released Cabernet Merlot 1994 $100 2004 $100 2002 $2002000 Not Released 1990 $95 1995 $85 2004 $1452001 $90 1991 $100 1996 $130 2005 $80 2005 $120 2004 $90 1992 $80 1997 $90 2006 $80 2005 $90 1993 $85 1998 $125 2006 $120  MOSS WOOD2006 $85  1994 $90 1999 $110 Cab Sauv 1995 $95 2000 $110 Mount Edelstone 1990 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2001 $100 Eileen Hardy 1990 $120 KAY BROS 1991 $140Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2002 $140 Shiraz Block 6 Old Vine 1992 $120 1997 $80 1998 $95 2004 $190 1991 $90 1993 $901998 $95 1999 $95 2005 $140 1990 $100 1992 $90 Shiraz 1994 $1301999 Not Released 2000 $85 2006 $120 1991 $55 1990 $95 1995 $1702000 $150  2001 $80 2007 Not Released 1992 $55 1993 $80 1991 $60 1996 $1502001 $100 2002 Not Released 2008 $110  1994 $80 1992 $75 1997 $90 2003 $75 1993 $60 1995 $80 1993 $50 1998 $150 1994 $75 1994 $60 1999 $140 1996 $100 1995 $50 2000 $120 1995 $65  1997 $70 1996 $70  2001 $120 1996 $95 1998 $95 1997 $50 2002 $902002 $110 2004 $70 1997 $50 1998 $80 2003 $952003 $85 1999 $75 1999 $70  2004 $85 1998 $100 2000 $65 2000 $65 2005 $852004 $140 1999 $70 2001 $65 2006 $652005 $120 D’ARENBERG 2001 $85 2002 $852006 $110 The Dead Arm 2000 $60  2002 $130 2003 $652007 $110 2001 $75 2003 $802008 $110 Shiraz 2002 $55 1994 $120 Meshach 2003 $55 2004 $85 1995 $80 1990 $110 2005 $90  1996 $75 1991 $85 2004 $65 2006 $85  1997 $60 1992 $80 2004 $65 BROKENWOOD 1998 $85 1993 $70  2005 $50Graveyard Shiraz 1999 $65 1994 $90 Keyneton Estate 2006 $65 MOUNT MARY1990 $90 2000 $65 1995 $85 1990 $55 Quintet1991 $100 2001 $70 1996 $100 1991 $45 1990 $2601992 Not Released 2002 $65 1997 Not Released 1992 $45 KATNOOK ESTATE 1991 $1101993 $75 2003 $65 1998 $130 1993 $45 Odyssey Cab Sauv 1992 $1101994 $80 2004 $60 1999 $85 Hill of Grace 1994 $36 1991 $90 1993 $1301995 $70 1980 $250 1995 $34 1994 $120 1981 $230 1992 $75 1993 Not Released136 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.1995 $100 1987 $900 1992 $70 1995 $35 1987 $70 1994 $95 1999 $501996 $160 1988 $800 1993 $70 1996 $55 1990 $90  1995 $80 2000 $651997 $110 1989 $850 1994 $65 1997 $45 1991 $65 1996 $75 2001 $1201998 $180 1990 $2,000 1995 $65 1998 $75 1993 $55 1997 $65 2002 $651999 $120 1991 $1,100 1996 $150 1999 $45 1994 $65 1998 $110 2003 $602000 $160 1992 $1,000 1997 $65 2000 $45 1999 $75 2004 $852001 $120 1993 $1,000 1998 $95 2001 $45 THREE RIVERS/ 2000 $70 2005 $55 2002 $120 1994 $800 1999 $70 2002 $40 Chris Ringland 2001 $70 2006 $70 2003 $130  1995 $800 2000 $60 2004 $45 Wines Shiraz 2002 $120 2007 $65 2004 $140  1996 $1,000 2001 $60 2005 $45 1990 $900 2003 $602005 $140 1997 $800 2002 $80 2006 $45 1991 $700 2004 $70 Moet et Chandon2006 $130  1998 $1,200 2003 $60 1992 $650 2005 $70 Cuvee Dom  1999 $890 2004 $75 1993 $750 Perignon 2000 $1,100 2005 $65  1994 $650  1973 $360 2001 $1,100 2006 $80  1995 $500 1975 $400 2002 $1,500 1996 $1,200 1976 $330  2003 $900 Magill Estate Stonewell Shiraz 1997 Not Released 1978 $290 2004 $1,100 1990 $70 1990 $90 1998 $900 John Riddoch 1980 $220 Bin 95 Grange 1991 $70 Cab Sauv1951 $43,000 1991 $70 1992 $60 1999 $600 1990 $70 1982 $4501952 $17,000 1992 $55 1993 $65 2000 $450 1983 $1801953 $13,000 1993 $50 1994 $65 2001 $850 1991 $75 1985 $3001954 $10,000 1995 $60 1992 $601955 $3,600 1994 $60 1996 $95 2002 $850 1993 $55 1988 $2601956 $14,000 1995 $45 1997 $65 2003 $500 1990 $6001957 $11,000 1996 $80 1998 $85  1994 $70 1992 $2401958 $4,800 Bin 707 1997 $60  1999 $75 1995 Not Released 1993 $2201959 $2,000 1980 $150  1998 $85 2000 $701960 $1,400 1981 Not Released 1999 $65 2001 $65 TORBRECK1961 $1,200 1982 $140 2000 $55 2002 $70 Run Rig Shiraz 1996 $75 1995 $2201962 $1,100 1983 $140  2001 $55 2004 $85 1995 $250 1997 $50 1996 $3101963 $1,000 1984 $140  2002 $70 1998 $801964 $750  1985 $140  2003 $70 1996 $350 1999 $52 1998 $2601965 $500  1986 $200  2004 $65 1997 $240 1999 $2401966 $600 1987 $140 2005 $60 1998 $350 2003 $50 2000 $2501967 $700 1988 $150 2006 $75 2004 $551968 $550 1989 $150  1999 $2001969 $550 1990 $200  2000 Not Released 2005 $75 FORTIFIEDS1970 $360 Bin 389 2001 $190 2006 $601971 $700 1972 $350 2002 $220 Michael Shiraz1973 $360 2003 $2001974 $400 2004 $200 1955 $3,000 1975 $400 1991 $140 1990 $130  Basket Press 2005 $200 1990 $100 Para Liqueur1976 $600  1992 $150  1991 $80  Shiraz 2006 $150 1991 $65 1878 $1,6001977 $400 1993 $150  1992 $50 1992 Not Released 1879 $1,2001978 $400 1994 $160  1993 $55 1990 $150 1993 $65 1880 $8001979 $380 1995 Not Released 1994 $65 1991 $140 1994 $65 1881 $8001980 $360 1996 $200 1995 $50 1992 $95 1995 Not Released 1887 $8001981 $390  1997 $150 1996 $90 1993 $75 1996 $70 1893 $1,0001982 $370  1998 $200 1994 $90 1997 $55 1899 $1,0001983 $380  1999 $130 1995 $75 Shiraz 1998 $70  1901 $650 1984 $350 2000 Not Released 1997 $45 1996 $140 1990 $145 1999 $45 1908 $5501985 $400  2001 $120 1998 $80 1997 $95 1991 $130 2003 $50 1910 $5001986 $550 2002 $160 1999 $50 1998 $190 1992 $80 2004 $60 1922 $5001987 $320 2003 Not Released 2000 $55 1999 $95 1993 $90 2005 $65 1925 $8001988 $350 2004 $190 2001 $50 2000 $80 1994 $160 The Octavius Shiraz 1927 $4801989 $350 2005 $150  2002 $60 2001 $85 1995 $95  1990 $75 1930 $2401990 $580 2006 $160  2003 $50 2002 $140 1996 $160  1991 Not Released 1933 $2001991 $480  2007 $160  2004 $48 2003 $100 1997 $90 1992 $60 1939 $1501992 $350 2005 $50 2004 $95 1998 $160 1993 $45 1944 $901993 $350 2006 $45  2005 $95 1999 $100 1994 $70 1947 $801994 $350 2007 $35 2006 $95 2000 $90 1995 $65 1951 $3001995 $350  Bin 707 Magnum 2007 $100 2001 $95 1996 $901996 $480 1980 $190 RWT 2002 $1501997 $340 1981 Not Released 2003 $801998 $580  1982 $210 1997 $95  Old Block Shiraz 2004 $1501999 $410 1983 $260 1998 $140  1990 $85 2005 $1302000 $420 1984 $190 1999 $110 1991 $50 2006 $1302001 $370  1985 $230 2000 $90  1992 $402002 $460 1986 $340 2001 $100 1993 $40 WILD DUCK CREEK 1997 $60 Grandfather Port2003 $400 1987 $190 2002 $120 1994 $45 ‘Duck Muck’ 1998 $100 1940 $2402004 $520 1988 $180 2003 $110 1995 $45 Shiraz 1999 $60 1945 $2202005 $600  1989 $175 2004 $110 1996 $70 2000 $60 1990 $360 2005 $100 1997 $40 1994 $380  2001 $85 1991 $240 2006 $110 1998 $65 1995 $340  2002 $100 Vintage Port 1992 $165 1999 $60 1996 Not Released 2003 $75 1993 $210 Block 42 2000 $40 1997 $490 2004 $75 1994 $350 Cab Sauv 2001 $40 1998 Not Released 1995 Not Released 1996 $480  2002 $80 1999 Not Released 1956 $120 1996 $380 2004 $600 2003 $50 1956 $120 1997 $225 2004 $50 2000 $350 1998 $350  2005 $50 2001 $320  1958 $140 1999 $240  2006 $70 1964 $110 2000 Not Released 2002 $360 1965 $110 2001 $250 2004 $320Bin 95 Grange 2002 $280  2007 $260 Dry Red No. 1 1966 $100 Magnum 1990 $150 1991 $75 1967 $65 Coonawarra 1968 $651979 $1,800 Red Blend 1992 $601980 $900 2004 $310 1993 $55 1969 $501981 $1,000 1990 $65 SEPPELT 1971 $601982 $950 2005 $320 Show Sparkling 1994 $701983 $1,000 1991 $55 Shiraz 1972 $551984 $880 1992 $40 Black Label 1995 $551985 $900 St. Henri 1993 $35 1984 $65 1990 $100 1996 $651986 $2,000 1994 $40 1985 $90 1991 $110 1997 $75 1990 $170 1986 $75 1992 $70 1998 $80 1991 $95 1993 $80 Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 137

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHUNTER VALLEYA HIKE THROUGH HISTORY MOLLY MAKES HER MARK CHEF SHAKES UP CROWNE PLAZAWYNDHAM Estate at Dalwood has MOLLY’s Cradle is one of the Hunter’s newestlaunched a heritage trail that takes visitors a cellar door complexes, having opened in NEW chef Steve Forrester has changed thestep back in time and unravels some of the late 2009, but it is already one of the most culinary culture at the Crowne Plaza Huntermysteries of Australia’s winemaking history. popular, with regular live entertainment and Valley since arriving from Parliament House inThere could be few better places for such dining options. At weekends, food offerings Canberra, where he was head chef. He hasa trail than Australia’s oldest continually include Hunter prime cut New York, sirloin also introduced a new series of winemakers’operating winery, and the only winery on or T-bone steak on the barbecue, or maybe degustation table events in Redsalt restaurant.the banks of the Hunter River. fresh Port Stephens oysters. And throughout “Partnering with select local boutique the week the Molly’s Cheese Plate, featuring wineries, our degustation dinners will allow The trail meanders through the vines to Hunter Valley produce, is on sale. Guests can the talented culinary team at Crowne Plazahistoric Dalwood House and to the grave of sit inside or on the verandah and sample a Hunter Valley the chance to really show offGeorge W. Wyndham, one of the Australian wide range of wines from vineyards planted our menu creations and share our passionwine industry’s founding fathers. He and his in 2000. A selection of single-vineyard wines for fine food and wine with guests,” he says.wife Margaret died in 1870 and were laid to is available from cellar door only, along withrest in the vineyard. The couple built Dalwood the Tuckers range of boutique beers specially Dining options at the resort includeHouse in 1830 using convict labour and brewed under licence. Redsalt, which is open daily for breakfast,sandstone quarried locally. A photograph lunch and dinner, the fusion of Chinese,taken from the house in 1886 has been The cellar door also sells a selection of Indian and Thai-inspired cuisines at Starenlarged and is displayed on the trail so visitors gourmet items, including a new Molly’s Anise, the Grapevine Cafe-Bar, Vistagain a sense of how little has changed at tasting plate and a range of Miss Molly’s Lounge and Body and Soul healthyWyndhamEstatein124years.DalwoodHouse deli delights, including vineyard-grown in-room dining. Phone (02) 4991 0917;is the original homestead on the property. extra virgin olive oil, olive tapenade, tomato www.crowneplaza.com.au/huntervalley. chutney and lime chutney, all of which are The vineyard has been replanted a available for tasting.number of times since George Wyndham’sfirst successful planting in 1831. Wyndham Molly’s Cradle also offers excellent andEstate’s public relations and operations peaceful on-site accommodation at its cheekily named Cradle Lodge. Situatedmanager, Stephen Guilbaud-Oulton, says on the vineyard, it features a loft masterthe path to the graves is flanked by semillon, bedroom plus two ground-floor bedrooms,the major white grape variety of Bordeaux, a state-of-the-art kitchen, air-conditioning,France. “Semillon has become one of the icon plasma television, DVD, CD and satellitegrape varieties of the Hunter Valley,” he says. connection. Prices start from $149 a night“The area of grapes cultivated on the property for a couple. Molly’s Cradle is at 356at the time of George’s death in 1870 was Tuckers Lane, North Rothbury; phone (02)50 acres, similar in size to what can be now 4938 6097; www.mollyscradle.com.au.viewed from the gardens of Dalwood House.’’138 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

travelbriefsGOLDFISH GETS A TWINTHE HUNTER Valley has a new cocktailand wine lounge in Goldfish, whichopened in August in the Tempus Twocomplex and is a sister business toGoldfish in Kings Cross. Goldfish is thebrainchild of cocktail maestro Ben Walsh,runner-up in the World Cocktail Mastersin Amsterdam, and operations managerDan Rice, who headed up Cargo. Located in the heart of the HunterValley in the iconic Tempus Two pavilion,Goldfish is a bar, cocktail lounge and blocks ($20) or kingfish carpaccio with Hunter vineyards, the complex offers anrestaurant in one with flowing internal a scattered citrus chilli snow pea salad upmarket escape for up to 200 guestsand external spaces that allow vineyard and crispy garlic ($20). Dinner offerings with 20 luxury spa suites and a series ofvistas. Expect dishes like grilled haloumi include dishes like country-style beef and private villas in different configurations.pieces wrapped in salty cured pork or Guinness pie ($28) and black musselsdried hot beer beef with dipping sauce with creamy blue cheese or spicy tomato All rooms have balconies or terraces($8 each) or more substantial meals broth ($28). overlooking Vintage fairways, while five Spalike Szechuan squid served with nahm Suites have a screened Sanctuary Courtyardjim sauce ($18), sticky crisp pork hock Regular live entertainment will be for guests who want absolute privacy. offered. Goldfish is open from midday to midnight seven days a week and will offer Chateau Elan treats include Nespresso a late-night menu. Phone (02) 4998 7688; Essenza coffee-making systems in Spa www.thegoldfish.com.au. Suites, spa baths, Thalgo bathroom amenities and 42-inch LCD TVs, along LEARN TUSCAN TRICKS with iPod docking stations and in-room broadband internet connections. SANDALYN Wilderness Estate, one of the Hunter’s most beautiful boutique The Greg Norman-designed golf course wineries, hosts a three-hour Tuscan-style has been ranked second in New South cooking class every weekend, teaching Wales and is the current host of the NSW visitors the traditional art of pasta making. Open. The clubhouse is home to the Guests learn the magic of turning flour renowned Legends Grill restaurant. and free-range eggs, sticky fingers and laughter into mouth-watering pasta - the The resort’s high-tech spa with 17 way it’s been done for generations. The treatment rooms offers a range of treatments class concludes with a leisurely two- and hydrotherapies in half-day or full-day course alfresco lunch, where the star packages. CEO Erik Stuebe says: “While attraction is the pasta students have just spa treatments are about relaxation and created. Phone (02) 4930 7611 or email wellness, we believe that a little bit of [email protected]. indulgence can go a long way. Visitors to our social spa rooms will find the champagne SPA FOR THE COURSE is properly chilled.” Phone (02) 4998 2500 or visit www.chateauelan.com.au IN JUST 12 months, Chateau Elan at and www.thevintage.com.au. The Vintage has established itself as one of Australia’s finest golf and spa Above: Chateau Elan exterior, foyer & spa. resorts. Located in the heart of the Opposite page. Left: Wyndham Estate. Right: Molly’s Cradle lodge and cellar door. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 139

170 TASTED77 AWARDEDHUNTER VALLEYA region known for its wonderful aged semillons and Ballabourneen Hunterfor some of the best chardonnays in Australia. But also, Valley Viognier 2010 HHHdon’t discount some excellent mid-weight shiraz wines Simple leesy/peachy aromasand some very pleasant verdelho’s for summer drinking. and a creamy, oak-driven palate. Good commercial style. $25SPARKLING Peterson House Hunter Valley Pinot Noir5 TASTED Chardonnay Pinot4 AWARDED Meunier 2005 HHHSolid, if not spectacular, group Toasty nose with slightof wines with nice initial caramel-like sweetness, andmouthfeel and freshness but lovely yeasty palate. $43were a little short in length.Excellent lunch options! OTHER WHITE Topper’s Mountain Ivanhoe WinesCapercaillie VARIETALS Thunderbolt’s New Hunter Valley VerdelhoHunter Valley Sparkling & BLENDS England Riesling 2009 HHHHMoscato 2010 HHH Traminer 2005 HHH Pale wine with green highlights.Pretty pink wine with delicate 10 TASTED Bright, lifted, perfumed Sweet, citrusy nose edged withrosewater aromas and vibrant 4 AWARDED nose, and sweet palate with some ripe pear notes. Nice mid-musk-lolly palate. $20 lovely bottle age characters palate varietal fruit with a solid All over the place here, both developing. $18 acid backbone. $25Ballabourneen with different varietals and Ridgeview Hunter ValleyHunter Valley Sparkling styles. Some were fat and VERDELHO Verdelho 2010 HHH1/2Moscato 2010 HHH broad, while others were Lifted floral/melon bouquet withVery floral, muscat-like aromas austere and elegant. Most 16 TASTED a dash of spice. Flavoursome,lead onto a sweet and delicate were at the lower fruit intensity 7 AWARDED fruit-dominated palate withpalate. $26 end of the spectrum. bright, zesty acidity. $20 Good class, with less oiliness First Creek Premium Hungerford Hill than in the past and showing Hunter Valley Verdelho Fishcage Hunter Valley nice structure and finesse. 2009 HHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Nice consistency. Creamy, toasty nose with lifted, 2010 HHHH spicy nuances. Powerful and Lovely varietal definition on a Cockfighter’s Ghost very flavoursome citrus/tropical clean, crisp and lifted nose. Hunter Valley Verdelho palate. Good length. $22 Great balance of lively varietal 2009 HHHH McGuigan Bin fruit flavours with good level of Firmer, drier style with golden- Series 6000 Hunter Valley acidity to match. $17.99 green hues and lifted, savoury Verdelho 2010 HHH aromas. Palate has lovely Delicate, lifted aromas and Honeytree Estate Hunter balance and length of sweet nicely balanced spicy/savoury Valley Clairette 2010 HHH varietal fruit flavours. $18.95 palate with a zesty finish. $13 Soft floral/fruity wine with Ballabourneen Hunter slight tropical nuances. Long, Valley Verdelho 2010 HHH lingering flavours with a touch Musky, perfumed nose with of residual sugar. $20 a touch of citrus. Good fruit palate and nice acidity. $22Peterson HouseHunter Valley Blancde Blanc 2007 HHHBright, lifted fruit with toastysecondary characters. Nice palateweight and length. 3-5 $33140 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

regional tastingOakvale Block 37Reserve Hunter ValleyVerdelho 2010 HHHSlightly closed nose withsome perfumed apricot notes.Generous tropical flavours. $25SEMILLON First Creek Winemaker’s First Creek Winemaker’s Reserve Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter Valley42 TASTED Semillon 2010 HHHHH Semillon 2009 HHHHH Excellent colour - very bright, Very clean, very bright, pale green27 AWARDED pale green. Great lifted citrus varietal with big hit of sweet concentration on the nose. Rich floral/citrus aromas. Mouthfilling,Excellent class, as to be fruit flavours - long and intense - steely, fresh lemon acid palate Poole’s Rock Hunter Valleyexpected from this iconic with just the right acid to balance with some great flavour Semillon 2007 HHHHHsemillon region. With a couple of the hint of residual sugar. $28 concentration and length. $28 Softer style, with very creamy/exceptions, the best wines were Allandale Hunter Valley toasty bouquet layered withthe aged ones - which shows Semillon 2005 HHHHH Tempus Two Zenith fresh, bright varietal fruit.the great value of cellaring this Powerful, waxy semillon Powerful varietal fruit on avarietal from the Hunter. characters on the nose with zesty and seamlessly balanced a hint of honeyed bottle palate with good depth andBimbadgen Estate development. Amazing Hunter Valley Semillon balance. $41.95 concentration of fruit flavours 2005 HHHHH Bimbadgen EstateSignature McDonalds and bottle development on the Beautiful ageing semillon Signature McDonaldsRoad Hunter Valley bright, fresh palate. $30 Road Hunter ValleySemillon 2007 HHHHH aromas; all toasty, honeyed Semillon 2005 HHHHH and lime-like. Interesting Steely lime nose showingGorgeous steely/flinty lime development on the palate, with toasty development. Soft,nose and very fresh and sweet and simple palate hasvibrant palate of lime-like fruit retained freshness and nice the works - freshness, length, level of fruit sweetness. Very toastiness, honey, citrus andwith toasty aged characters flavoursome. 3-5 $35 balancing acidity. $50developing. Excellent exampleof an ageing Hunter, with yearsahead of it. 5+ $40 Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 141

HUNTER VALLEYTyrrell’s Wines Vat 1 Tempus Two Cassegrain Reserve Hunter CHARDONNAYHunter Valley Semillon Zenith Hunter Valley Valley Hastings River2004 HHHHH Semillon 2010 HHHH Semillon 2002 HHH1/2 28 TASTEDVibrant yellow/green wine Delicate, lifted, citrus aromas - Great aged semillon nose - 12 AWARDEDwith delicate semillon aromas, very aromatic - and some juicy toasty and complex - and soft,followed by a tight, lean, confectionery citrus flavours buttery palate. Lovely wine at The best chardonnays hadsomewhat sherbety palate well matched by some lovely its peak. $35 retained freshness, while somethat is developing slight toasty tingly acidity. 3-5 $25 McGuigan Bin lesser ones suffered from tired,notes and is still amazingly Series 9000 Hunter Valley oily characters. Less oak was afresh. $50 Draytons Family Wines Semillon 2010 HHH good thing and most showedMcGuigan Bin Series 9000 Vineyard Reserve Attractive, spicy, citrus fruit excellent acid balance.Hunter Valley Semillon Pokolbin Hunter Valley density with slight yeasty2003 HHHHH Semillon 2006 HHHH characters and good mid-palateSmells like fresh lemon curd Lovely rich, powerful nose length. $13with a delicate floral element. that has both freshness mixedRich and powerful palate with with aged characters. Long, Ridgeview Generationsan abundance of sweet lemon zingy palate full of flavour and Reserve Hunter Valleyflavours and lovely honeyed with great fruit weight and Semillon 2010 HHHsoftness and intensity. $30 intensity. $30 Musk-like aromas with esteryMcGuigan Bin Series 9000 lift, and persistent fruit flavoursHunter Valley Semillon Briar Ridge Early Harvest with a zesty acidity balance. $252007 HHHH1/2 Hunter Valley SemillonMusk and sweet limes lift 2010 HHH1/2 Briar Ridge Vineyard Krinklewoodoff a nose showing excellent Lean, tight and citrusy aromas, Signature Release Karl Biodynamic Vineyardbottle age development. Palate and a long, zesty palate full of Stockhausen Hunter Hunter Valley Chardonnayshows lovely power and length bright varietal fruit - but it’s a Valley Semillon 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2of varietal fruit characters with delicate style of semillon. $21 Broad, fuller style with juicy Has luminous green hues andsome sweetness. $20 citrus fruit. Good balance smells of peaches and apricotsMcWilliams Mount First Creek Premium between fruit, residual sugar with a hint of oak. Great depth,Pleasant Lovedale Single Hunter Valley Semillon and acid. $26 power and persistence ofVineyard Hunter Valley 2010 HHH1/2 Briar Ridge Dairy Hill complex flavours on the zesty,Semillon 2005 HHHH1/2 Bright and citrusy on the nose. Single Vineyard Hunter lively palate. $28Excellent example of a Good, flavoursome semillon Valley Semillon 2010 HHHmaturing Hunter semillon. palate with acid to balance Nose has some toastiness withNose has lovely balance of fruit some residual sugar. $22 a floral lift. Big, juicy palate withand toasty bottle age, with rich, good flavour length. $29toasty, sweet lemon flavours. Ridgeview GenerationsDrinking well now. $21.99 Reserve Hunter Valley Tamburlaine ReserveDe Bortoli Murphy’s Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley SemillonVineyard Hunter Valley Nose has a floral lift with 2010 HHHSemillon 2005 HHHH1/2 kero-like development. Slightly Floral/citrus nose with aLifted semillon aromas with a aged, juicy lemon palate with a perfumed lift. Plenty of acid oncomplex cheesy touch and nice drying finish. $25 the fresh citrus palate. $29honeyed notes. Lovely fresh,mature, honeyed palate. Great Robyn Drayton Reginald Ridgeview Generations Poole’s Rockvarietal flavour depth with zesty Reserve Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Chardonnayacidity. $28 Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 Semillon 2008 HHH 2007 HHHH1/2 Delicate, minerally, citrus nose Quite a green herbal lift to Bright fruit dominates a buttery and soft, slightly sweet palate the nose, and green floral nose with vanilla elements. with good varietal fruit weight flavours. $25 Good fruit strength on a fresh and definition. $30 palate showing some attractive bottle age characters. DrinkingAllandale Hunter Valley Tempus Two Zenith well now. $41.95Semillon 2004 HHHH1/2 Hunter Valley SemillonSmells almost like lemon 2009 HHH1/2essence with slight buttery Citrusy nose with a certainnotes. Fresh orange/citrus pungency. Soft in the mouth,flavours with soft bottle age with sweet fruit and somecharacters on the long palate. interesting development.Good drinking now. $30 3-5 $30 Mark Richardson Will Rickard-Bell Chief red winemaker for Senior winemaker, Tyrrell’s Wines. Formerly Drayton’s Family Wines. winemaker at Allandale Previously worked at winery, with stints at De Bortoli in the Yarra & Domaine Chandon and Hunter, Canobola Smith Chianti Rufina in Tuscany. in Orange and Peot’s Part of his portfolio is the Corner in Mudgee. Rufus Stone range, producing Associate judge at the reds from Heathcote and Hunter Valley Show for McLaren Vale. the past three years.142 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

regional tastingBriar Ridge McGuigan Bin Series 7000 ROSE Capercaillie Hunter ValleyBriar Hill Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Chardonnay Petit Verdot 2009 HHHHunter Valley Chardonnay 2009 HHH 3 TASTED Sweet, ripe berry nose and2009 HHHH1/2 Lifted tropical nose and zesty, 0 AWARDED simple, clean, high-acid palateVery fresh citrus bouquet with citrusy palate with attractive with grippy tannins and aa hint of oak. Tight, minerally yeasty notes. $13 OTHER RED savoury finish. 3-5 $25palate with excellent fruit VARIETALSpower seamlessly balanced Bimbadgen Estate Limited & BLENDS Ridgeview Hunter Valleyby some great acid and well- Release Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignonhandled oak. $30 Chardonnay 2008 HHH 16 TASTED 2007 HHH Toasty/bacon-like bouquet, 4 AWARDED Brooding, crushed violet/ and oily palate with plenty of chocolate nose and big, chewy, flavour. 3-5 $23 tannic palate. $25Ballabourneen Tallowwood Hunter Valley With the varietals there was SHIRAZThe Stuart Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2010 HHH promise for sangiovese and 2009 - 2008Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Bright, fresh fruit nose with tempranillo but the judgesPleasant creaminess to the yeasty complexity, and a felt some other varietals will 20 TASTEDnose, with citrusy fruit and a generous but delicate palate. $26 struggle in the Hunter. The 9 AWARDEDfloral lift. Well-structured palate First Creek Winemaker’s blends were mostly thinwith lean, peachy fruit flavours Reserve Hunter Valley and green and reflected the Quite a solid group of wines.and a long, fresh, acid finish. $30 Chardonnay 2010 HHH coldest, wettest vintage in “The best here had clean redRothbury Estate Black Creamy toasty oak mingles with history in 2008. fruits coming through, withLabel Hunter Valley fresh, lively, peachy varietal nice length,” said one judge.Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 fruit. Good acid backbone. $28 But some disappointed, withClean varietal fruit aromas with McGuigan Personal winemakers forcing the issue toa citrus lift. Fresh, fruit-driven Reserve Hunter Valley get more powerful wines frompalate with a very light oak Chardonnay 2007 HHH basically elegant structures.influence. $24.99 Citrusy nose with lovelyErnest Hill Alexander honeyed, aged notes, and quite Topper’s MountainHunter Valley Chardonnay an acid palate with powerful New England Tempranillo2009 HHH1/2 fruit. $35 2009 HHHHDelicate varietal fruit but has Bright red wine with a simpledepth and persistence and is fruity/floral nose and good fresh First Creek Winemaker’snicely matched by the oak and fruit running the entire length Reserve Hunter Valleyzesty acidity. $30 of the palate with ‘crunchy’ Shiraz 2009 HHHHHCockfighter’s Ghost tannins. Good cellaringHunter Valley Chardonnay potential. 5+ $22 Mix of dark fruit and brooding2007 HHH1/2 savoury oak creates lovelySoft, youthful nose with fresh aromas. The palate is a lovelyfruit aromas and a touch of oak. The Little Wine Company savoury mouthful of chunky fruit,Refreshing varietal palate. Good Hunter Valley Sangioveseweight and length. $19.95 ripe, chewy tannins, lovely oak 2009 HHH1/2 and fresh acid. 3-5 $42 Slightly developed savoury/meaty aromas with strong smoky oak. Similar palate with nice grainy tannins. 3-5 $24Liz Jackson Andrew Spinaze JUDGESChief winemaker for Senior winemaker forFirst Creek Wines. Tyrrell’s Vineyards. Has Mark DavidsonRegular wine show judged at the Hunter Managing director ofjudge on the circuit, Valley, Canberra and Tamburlaine Wines. Hasincluding Sydney, Cowra wine shows. judged at the HunterHunter Valley, Cowra Former Winestate Valley Wine Show.and the NSW Wine Australian WinemakerShow. of the Year. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 143

HUNTER VALLEY Draytons Family Wines SHIRAZ Ridgeview Generations Vineyard Reserve Hunter 2007 & OLDER Reserve Hunter Valley Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Toasty oak nose with layers of 23 TASTED Well-made wine with a nose blackcurrants and spices. Long, and palate that are dark, closed tight and savoury on a palate 9 AWARDED and dusty. Fruit still there but a with elegant acid length to tad restrained. $40 balance. $30 Some quality wines with nice persistency and vibrancy from McGuigan Vineyard SelectMount View Estate Ernest Hill three-year-old wines that are Hunter Valley ShirazReserve Hunter Valley Shareholders Hunter good drinking now or have 2007 HHHShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 further ageing possibilities. Black cherry and chocolateComplex smoky/savoury nose Good, simple, vibrant purple Some wines suffered from nose, and a palate full of sweet,- very interesting - followed by shiraz with well-managed spicy over-extraction, which is a no- dark chocolaty flavours. $20a nicely balanced, sweet, ripe plum fruit, acid and oak. Nice no for mid-weight wines.palate with excellent flavour minty lift. $25 McWilliams Mount Pleasantpersistence and lots of sweet Hungerford Hill Hunter Tyrrell’s Wines Maurice O’Shea Hunteroak. 3-5 $25 Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Brokenback Hunter Valley Valley Shiraz 2007 HHH Nose has both spicy and Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Tarry/savoury aromas and dark, savoury characters. Palate lean Bright, vibrant, confectionery brooding palate with chewy, and tight, with fresh varietal nose with a lovely minty flavoursome fruit. $65 flavour length. $35 thread. Fruit does the talking on Oakvale Peppercorn Hunter the palate, with well-handled Brokenwood Graveyard Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 spicy oak to balance. Excellent Vineyard Hunter Valley Complexity of rich red fruit and cellaring potential; years ahead Shiraz 2007 HHH dark chocolate aromas. Soft, of it. 5+ $25 Brooding and tarry sweet, lightweight palate with bouquet, followed by sweet, slightly drying oak. $35 Tyrrell’s Wines chocolaty palate with good fruit Vat 8 Hunter Valley Shiraz weight. $140 McGuigan Personal 2007 HHHH1/2 Reserve Hunter Valley Vibrant colour with a SWEET WHITE Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 distinctively minty character & FORTIFIED Sweet, fruit cake-like bouquet to the ripe, red fruit nose, and big, jammy palate with followed by a Cherry Ripe-like 7 TASTED soft, chocolaty tannins. Very palate with drying tannins, 1 AWARDED drinkable! $50 good length, weight and brightness. $50 The panel was very Briar Ridge Dairy Hill disappointed with this Single Vineyard Hunter category. “Too many Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH Ridgeview Hunter Valley afterthoughts,” suggested one Minty/chocolaty nose and grippy, Shiraz 2007 HHHH judge. It seems winemakersTamburlaine tannic palate with soft, rich fruit Dark, brooding nose that smells are saying they need a wineReserve Hunter Valley and clean acid. 3-5 $50 of cherries with hints of cloves. for the cellar door rather thanSyrah 2009 HHHH1/2 Big, soft, fruit/oak palate with taking pride in making sweetRich, extracted style with rich tannin structure and lovely wine of the highest quality.aromas of plums, spices and fresh acid spine. $25vanilla and an interestingvarietal fruit flavour profile Ridgeview Generationsmatched with a big, tannic Reserve Hunter Valleyspine and plenty of acidity. $33 Shiraz 2007 HHHH Bimbadgen Estate Hunter Valley Fortified Verdelho Long, lingering, savoury wine (375ml) NV HHH with quite a buttery-like nose. Soft, medium-bodied palate Flinty citrus nose and confectionery fruit flavours with with long, lingering flavours and good lean acid. Drinking well good acid drive. 3-5 $40 STAR RATINGS  now or later. 3-5 $26Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Oakvale Barrelexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Select Hunter ValleyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2professionals and are compared in peer Subdued, youthful andclasses by three judges. strawberry-like nose, andCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, big, extracted palate loadeda major mail-order business. with sweet fruit and high inCD Cellar door price. alcohol. $49CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).144 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

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129 TASTED68 AWARDEDRIESLINGLots to like in this tasting for wines, both in the under $20 value Wicks Estate RIESLINGbracket and with the pricier wines above $30 (but still a bargain Adelaide Hills 2009 & OLDERat this price). These are crisp beauties that you can enjoy now or Riesling 2010 HHH $15 - $20put away for further aging. Riesling is one white varietal that does Herbal nose with slightimprove with age! leesy influence. Very dry 20 TASTED aperitif palate with acidic flavours. $18 9 AWARDED Tohu MarlboroughRIESLING RIESLING 2010 Bundaleer Riesling 2010 HHH A number of winesUNDER $15 $15 - $20 Clare Valley Riesling Smells of Turkish delight here showed elegance and has very dry, crisp and excellent varietal10 TASTED 18 TASTED acid flavours with a character without2 AWARDED 10 AWARDED perfumed edge. $19.99 being “tricked up”. An interesting diversityDisappointingly, too The best-rated wines 2010 HHH1/2 here, with some botrytismany winemaking faults here showed that 2010 Attractive spicy/ showing up in someshowed up in this group, was a good vintage for perfumed nose with wines and others offeringwith only two wines the variety and offered a candied note. Good well-integrated residualthe judges considered each-way bets for crisp, lively flavour sugar with high acid fruit.worthwhile. drinking now as crisp, persistence. Well-made dry wines or to keep for wine with ageingMoppity Vineyards further ageing. potential. 5+ $18Lock & Key SingleVineyard Hilltops Wolf Blass Taylors Clare Valley James HaselgroveRiesling 2010 HHH Yellow Label Riesling 2010 HHH1/2Candied fairyfloss aromas Riesling 2010 HHHH Crisp, dry and Wines Selectionsand a tart, lemon peel, Big, up-front style Rieslingaperitif-style palate; with a pretty, spicy/ flavoursome, with lovely 2008 HHHH1/2persistent flavours. $14.99 floral bouquet and nice fresh, succulent, mineral/ depth of varietal fruit lime characters. Will age Big golden colourDe Bortoli Windy flavours and a tight acid with lovely complex,Peak King Valley spine bringing it all into very well. 5+ $18 developing bouquet andRiesling 2009 HHH balance. $17.99Lovely lemon drop and Richard Hamilton soft and pretty palate -rose petal-like characters Angove Family Slate Quarry some sweetness andon both nose and bone- Winemakers McLaren Vale attractive citrus flavours.dry palate. $14.90 Vineyard Select Riesling 2010 HHH Great drinking now or put Clare Valley Riesling Lemon sherbet-like it away. 3-5 $15 2010 HHH1/2 aromas and subtle Generous varietal with smokiness. Very crisp, Barossa Valley floral, citrus and spices dry and citrusy in the Estate E Bass on the nose. Nice mouth. $15.50 Eden Valley Riesling balance between clean, Seppeltsfield 2009 HHHH sweet fruit and zesty Glenpara Elm Walk acidity. $15 Eden Valley Riesling Lovely soft wine with Wykari The Company floral/lemon grass Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHH characters and developing 2010 HHH Pretty lemon drop nose Lemony nose and simple, zesty, lemon some very attractive with delicate floral secondary characters overtones and lovely palate. Good cellaring which add complexity. varietal flavours. potential. 3-5 $19 Crisp quaffer. $16 Dry finish. 3-5 $18 Boston Bay Riesling Hunter’s 2010 HHH Marlborough Honeysuckle and citrus Riesling 2009 HHHH bouquet with sharp, Pure, elegant, lifted, ‘bitey’ acid on ripe, rose petal-like tropical palate. $18 fragrances on the nose and very nice crisp, dry, lime-like flavours on a well-structured palate. Has potential. 5+ $19.90146 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

varietal tastingLawson’s Dry RIESLING 2010 Austins Geelong Whistler WinesHills Marlborough $20 - $25 Riesling 2010 HHH Barossa RieslingRiesling 2008 HHHH Very pleasant floral/ 2010 HHHInteresting nose - smells 22 TASTED spice aromas. Soft, juicy Very generous toastyof cumquats - and intense 12 AWARDED palate with great citrus citrus flavours withand lingering, passionfruit- flavour intensity. $20 some residual sugarlike flavours seamlessly A bit more purity of fruit Little Brampton and balancing acid.balanced by crisp, lively showing here. Similar Flagpole Clare Valleyacidity. 3-5 $19 to the last group, with Riesling 2010 HHH 3-5 $22 great cellaring wines Spices and limes on theRhythm Stick or aperitif styles for nose with a floral touch, Heggies Eden ValleyWines Red Robin drinking now. and fresh, lime-like Riesling 2010 HHHClare Valley Riesling flavours. $20 Soft, mouthwatering2009 HHH1/2 St John’s Road wine with pleasantPleasant, well-integrated Peace of Eden floral/citrus characters.citrus aromas and a lovely Eden Valley Riesling Drink now or in 3-5toasty palate exhibiting 2010 HHH years. $22.95 Pleasant varietalcrisp acid flavours. smelling of lemon drops, Hentley FarmA keeper. 5+ $15 tasting of lemons and The Exception limes and with a crisp, Eden Valley RieslingSchild Estate steely finish. $20 2010 HHHBarossa Riesling Saint Clair Family Intriguing floral/herbal2009 HHH1/2 Estate Marlborough aromas with an austerePretty wine - quite Riesling 2010 HHH yeasty/lemonade palate.developed for a 2009, Musky floral nose A keeper. 5+ $23 Richmond Grovewith solid citrus and generous, sweet Limited Releasepulp nose and nicely lemon palate with some Brangayne of Watervale Rieslingbalanced riesling residual sugar adding Orange Riesling 2008 HHHHHflavours. 3-5 $15 weight. $20.95 2010 HHH Very dry wine; still Leo Buring Broad, developing, toasty/ crisp -still a baby - withBethany Eden Valley Eden Valley Riesling marmalade nose; lovely years ahead of it. PureRiesling 2009 HHH 2010 HHH long, sherbety flavours. varietal expression onPretty florals on the Huge citrus power and Has years in it. $24 nose and palate of citrusnose and citrus sherbet length, with delightful and honeysuckle-likeflavours with leesy rose petal nuances. RIESLING characters with a lovelyovertones. $18 Great now or drink later. 2009 & OLDER minerally acid spine. $20 - $25Saint Clair Family 5+ $20.99 5+ $21.99Estate Vicar’s Seville Estate The 27 TASTEDChoice Marlborough Pewsey Vale Barber Yarra ValleyRiesling 2009 HHH Eden Valley Riesling Riesling 2010 HHH 18 AWARDEDTurkish delight and roses 2010 HHHH Quite exotic; subtle,on the nose, and pleasant Classic riesling with a spicy lemon grasslemon/lime palate. True lovely golden colour. aromas and yeasty/lees “A step up in qualityto variety. $18.95 Subtle citrus aromas and texture to the citrus here,” agreed the judges. palate. $22 This group shows howBabich Marlborough medium-bodied palate well riesling ages in aDry Riesling full of crisp lime/lemon good year, with secondary2008 HHH flavours. 3-5 $21.95 development beginningLovely succulent wine to show. “A huge mix ofwith zesty, fresh citrus Leo Buring styles, ranging fromfruit and balancing Clare Valley Riesling bone-dry to quite sweet,”acid. $19.95 2010 HHH1/2 noted one judge. Austere dry white style - great food wine. Crisp, citrusy characters with lovely toasty edges. 3-5 $20.99 Geoff Cowey Louisa Rose JUDGES Oeonlogist with the Australian Chief winemaker for Wine Research Institute Yalumba Wines with Peter Simic (AWRI). He has wide vintage seventeen vintages Editor/publisher Winestate experience including Barossa, completed. Regular Magazine. More than 30 years’ Sunraysia, Great Western, senior judge on the experience in the wine industry. Coonawarra, Tasmania, plus capital city wine show Formerly founding publisher of Burgundy, Priorat, Penedes circuit, including chair a US wine magazine, manager and Martinborough. Associate of the Royal Perth of the SA Wine Information judge at Adelaide Hills and Wine Show in 2009. Bureau, and wine educator with New England wine shows. Regency College of TAFE in SA. Peter is also a regular wine commentator on national radio and television programs. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 147

RIESLING Whistler Wines Highland Heritage Saltram Mamre Wither Hills Cellar Barossa Riesling Estate Nikki D Brook Eden Valley Release Kerseley 2009 HHH1/2 Mount Canobolas Riesling 2009 HHH Marlborough Riesling Big, toasty wine with Riesling 2009 HHH Lovely aromas of orange 2009 HHH1/2 lovely vibrancy - at its Closed nose; sweet blossom with lemon Lovely wine; fragrant peak. Good flavour and developing. Intense grass overtones. Simple, Turkish delight/rose persistence, with toasty/ marmalade sweetness well-structured fruit/acid petal aromas and kero development on the palate, with palate. $22.99 persistent candied fruit starting. $22 balancing acidity. $20 flavours with strong acid White Rock Vineyard finish. $25 Grant Burge Thorn Highland Heritage Tasmanian Riesling Eden Valley Riesling Estate Mount 2008 HHH Bird in Hand 2009 HHH1/2 Canobolas Vineyard Yeasty/leesy characters Honeysuckle Toasty/nutty development Riesling 2009 HHH on the nose, with Clare Valley Riesling on the nose, with Turkish delight aromas very crisp and austere 2010 HHH kero-like notes. Similar on top of goat’s cheese lemony flavours. $22 Lime blossoms and palate, nicely balanced pungency. Mid-weight lychees on the nose by the acid and residual palate with good flavour Mt Beautiful and a lovely balance of sugar. $23 length. $20 Cheviot Hills sweetness and acid in Riesling 2008 HHH the mouth. $25Seabrook Astrolabe Experience Rhythm Stick Wines Stewed lemon aromasThe Judge Clare Astrolabe Farm Red Robin Reserve with a botrytis edge and Wolf BlassValley Eden Valley Marlborough Riesling Clare Valley Riesling some very Germanic acid/ Gold Label RieslingRiesling 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH sugar flavours. $23.95 2010 HHHIntense, spicy nose with Quite sweet aromas and Steely-dry aperitif Very dry wine - sharpsome botrytis/lychee- a super-sweet floral/ style with intense RIESLING acid with some floral andlike edges followed by musky palate with good lime characters and $25 - $30 lime characters showingpowerful lime flavours, flavour persistence. aged kero elements through. $25.99with a touch of botrytis Lovely wine. $24.99 developing. $20 24 TASTEDadding complexity. Whistler Wines 9 AWARDED O’Leary Walker Barossa Riesling Orlando St Helga Watervale Riesling 3-5 $22 2008 HHH1/2 Eden Valley Riesling The top wines here 2009 HHHKatnook Estate Savoury/toasty/smoky 2009 HHH were excellent, showing Lovely soft, lemon pulp-Coonawarra Riesling nose and elegant lemon/ Lively, estery tropical superb fruit depth and like fruit with lively acid2009 HHH1/2 lime flavours well fruit fragrances and structure but a number and some toasty age. AtAustere aperitif style matched by the acid and excellent crisp, varietal could easily have been its peak. $24.95that’s ageing nicely and toasty aged notes. $22 flavours. A keeper. in a lower price bracket.has spicy/floral aromas Elgee Park Family Sileni The Donand vibrant and crisp Reserve Mornington 5+ $20.99 Grossett Hill-Smith Hawke’s Baycitrus flavours. $22 Peninsula Riesling Mesh Eden Valley Riesling 2009 HHH 2009 HHH Astrolabe Voyage Riesling 2009 HHHHH Floral/fairy floss Soft, juicy wine; a Marlborough Dry Intense floral/citrus fragrances and lovely concoction of Riesling 2009 HHH bouquet developing developed, toasty palate lemon drops, lemon Lovely brioche and honey lovely complexity. with persistent honeyed grass and some herbal complexity on the nose, Delicious palate, full lime flavours. $25 elements. $20 and marmalade/botrytis- of flavour and with like palate. $21.50 excellent depth of Chard Farm pristine varietal fruit. Vipers Vineyard Plantagenet Great Very dry, with a lingering, Central Otago Southern Riesling astringent finish. $26 Riesling 2009 HHH 2009 HHH Powerful honeysuckle Simple lemon rind style Howard Park Great nose and sweet, heavily with powerful dry/sour Southern Riesling botrytised, palate with flavours. Great food 2010 HHHH matching acid. $29 wine with cellaring Very delicate and pretty, potential. 5+ $22 spicy/floral bouquet that RIESLING leads onto a dry palate $30+ STAR RATINGS  Bald Hills Last loaded up with racy acid Light Central Otago and floral/candied fruit 8 TASTEDThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Riesling 2009 HHH flavours. $27 8 AWARDEDexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Broad, developingAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry wine with estery floral/ Petaluma Riesling The excellent andprofessionals and are compared in peer citrus fruit and some 2009 HHHH consistent class theclasses by three judges. residual sugar. Drying Lovely depth of spicy/ judges hoped for.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, finish. $22.50 floral riesling fruit Great examples of style.a major mail-order business. aromas, which are The judges’ advice?CD Cellar door price. echoed on the soft and “Buy, buy, buy.”CDO Cellar door only. generous palate with itsSO Sold out. long, dry and crisp finish.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. 5+ $24.95 Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).148 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

varietal tasting Penfolds Koonunga Taylors St Andrews Autumn Riesling Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Soft, luscious wine with Pretty wine with gentle, lovely minerally lemon/ perfumed nose and juicy, lime varietal fruit showing citrus palate with racy acid floral tones and yeasty balance. Good cellaring notes. Beautiful long, candidate. 5+ $35 astringent finish. $35 Bay of Fires Annie’s Lane Tasmania Riesling Copper Trail Riesling 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Intense, pungent tropical Lemon drop aromas aromas and loads of and a seamlessly unctuous fruit flavours balanced, citrusy palate layered with crisp acid showing great structure characters. Finishes on a and length. Potential! citrusy note. $38.50 3-5 $35.99Seppelt Drumborg Jacob’s Creek Leo Buring Leonay Prophet’s RockRiesling 2010 HHHHH Steingarten Barossa Maturation Release Central Otago DryTight and lively wine with Riesling 2007 HHHHH Riesling 2005 HHHHH Riesling 2008 HHH Bright golden wine Excellent example of Nose of herbs and with lovely soft, toasty an aged riesling. Still candied lime, and a honey/lemon aromas amazingly fresh and lively, lovely long palate of pure and a palate with good with zesty citrus nose varietal flavours. $30 persistence of gorgeous, and beautifully preservedloads of flavour. Smells juicy-sweet citrus flavours lemon flavours withfloral and spicy and has beautifully balanced by lovely toasty/kero-likean excellent, pristine, vibrant acidity. $33.99 development. $35varietal fruit palate.Crisp and lean, with alovely long, soft finish.Definitely one for thecellar. 5+ $34.99Switch & SaveStoringouerlsfeawnthaesrteic? Cofaflelru. s for IT’S HEATING UP... DON’T LET YOUR WINE!Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not wine-arkbe kept at home. Those special wines you have beenholding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINEto pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be).FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTH Special Edition 2010 W I N E9/2S0/2T01A0 T9:E12:15 AM149Wine Ark provides: > CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE > FULL INSURANCE > 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS > HAVE WINE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR > SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT > MANY MORE BENEFITSMembers of our Cellarclub also enjoy access to rareand collectable wine, invitations to regular wine tastingsand discounted storage rates. For more informationplease call 1800 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.auFollow us on Twitter, Facebook, or youtube channelWine_Ark_2010_WOTY_half_dark.indd 1

203 TASTED91 AWARDEDSAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDSA big tasting of Australasia’s most popular white varietal. Mud House Saint Clair FamilyAs expected, the range of quality offered was vast, ranging Marlborough Estate Vicar’sfrom simple (and sometimes faulty) wines at the supermarket Sauvignon Blanc Choice Marlborough(“no matter how low you go, we’ll go lower”) end, through 2010 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blancthe middle range of either lean or riper styles, up to the Distinct gooseberry 2010 HHHHpremium end where the fruit weight and complexity was aromas with a lovely Lovely zesty, flavoursome,evident. None of these will break the bank and the best offer floral lift. Vibrant palate tropical fruit style. Somegreat social drinking experiences. full of grapefruit and residual sweetness nicely blossom-like flavours and balanced by a citrusy acidSAUVIGNON Moppity Vineyards wrapped in crisp, clean backbone. $18.95BLANC Lock & Key Single acid. Good commercial Tiki Wairau AlpineUNDER $15 Vineyard Central style. $18.99 Valley Marlborough Ranges Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc19 TASTED Blanc 2010 HHH Mount Riley 2010 HHHH5 AWARDED Perfumed lift and nice Marlborough Typical New Zealand tropical overtones to Sauvignon Blanc sauvignon blancSome of these wines the nose, followed by 2010 HHHH1/2 characters of cannedshowed faulty sulphide citrus and fruit salad Punchy aromas in the peas, gooseberries andcharacters or were flavours. $14.99 tropical end of the asparagus lift off thebroad and showed Aldi Stores Kaiora spectrum with bright, nose and linger long onpressings phenolics - Bay Marlborough green lime notes. the palate. $19.99not surprising at this Sauvignon Blanc Lovely zesty palate; niceprice! The better wines 2009 HHH structure with loads of Lou Miranda Leonehad some juiciness Bright lychee/asparagus tropical flavours and a Adelaide Hillsand brightness of fruit, aromas and a palate rich sorbet-like finish. $17.95 Sauvignon Blancoffering nice quaffing. with asparagus and green Lake Chalice 2010 HHH1/2 bean flavours. $9.99 Marlborough Pleasant lift of sweetHeathcote Winery Sauvignon Blanc gooseberries on theCravens Place Kono Marlborough SAUVIGNON 2010 HHHH nose, and a soft,Coonawarra Sauvignon Blanc BLANC 2010 Varietal fruit characters rounded palate withSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 $15 -$20 mingle with minerally sweet, herbaceous2010 HHH1/2 Mix of green beans elements. Great balance flavours. $16.95Grassy and tropical on and cut grass aromas; 46 TASTED and intensity of flavourthe nose, with a juicy the palate tastes like 19 AWARDED on the palate, withand refreshing tropical Fruit Tingles. Popular lovely crisp, cleanpalate with hints of commercial style. $10.99 Two styles here - acidity. $19.95residual sugar. Dry Hunky Dory the big, ‘punchy’,finish. $12 Marlborough flavoursome wines Sauvignon Blanc (usually Kiwi) and the 2010 HHH lighter, more minerally, Pungent and perfumed citrus ones (usually bouquet and zesty Australian). “Generally punch of citrus, lychee the bigger styles stand and spicy flavours. Soft out,” said the judges. finish. $14 “But don’t overlook the more delicate wines.”150 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010