Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2010

varietal tastingDrift Marlborough Bremerton Langhorne 3 Tales Marlborough O:TU Awatere Vavasour AwatereSauvignon Blanc Creek Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Valley Marlborough Valley Marlborough2010 HHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon BlancPungent aromas; some Nose like Fruit Tingles Grassy/asparagus nose 2009 HHH 2010 HHHHHasparagus elements. Soft and green nettles! and spicy, tropical palate Pungent, smoky aromas “A cornucopia ofand juicy in the mouth, Balanced citrus flavours with some residual sugar and a fresh, zesty, aromas,” enthusedwith a good tropical with a tangy finish. $17 and soft acid. $18.50 citrusy palate with some one judge. Big hit offlavour punch. $17 Black Cottage toastiness. $18.99 gooseberry, canned peaInvivo Marlborough Marlborough Squealing Pig Willespie Margaret and grapefruit elements.Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc River Sauvignon The same lovely2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH 2010 HHH Blanc 2009 HHH characters are echoed onLovely concoction of Lovely lift of grapefruit Gooseberry aromas Sweaty nose with the balanced palate. $20musk lollies, cut grass and passionfruit on the with a hint of yeast and nice mineral character, Jules Taylor Winesand lavender aromas. nose, and long, lingering, a clean, zesty, citrusy and juicy citrus palate MarlboroughTropical/lemony flavours juicy tropical flavours. $18 palate. $19.99 with good acid/sweet Sauvignon Blanccreate a sweet/sour The Black Chook balance. $19.50 2010 HHHH1/2palate. $19.95 Adelaide Hills SAUVIGNON Complexity of lemonTapestry AH Sauvignon Blanc BLANC 2009 SAUVIGNON sherbet, grapefruit andAdelaide Hills 2010 HHH $15 - $20 BLANC 2010 passionfruit aromasSauvignon Blanc Beautiful combination of $20 - $25 integrated with some2010 HHH1/2 lychee, guava and lemon 15 TASTED oak. Rich, spicy palateSmells like musk lollies tart-like characters with 5 AWARDED 48 TASTED with intense, gooseberry-and has a nice punchy soft acid spine. $17 29 AWARDED like flavours and lovelytropical fruit palate A couple of weeks of “The better wines here zesty finish. $22.99with a very fresh acid Blue Pyrenees heat in 2009 did no showed flavour ‘mouthbackbone. $18 Sauvignon Blanc favours for this variety feel’ with a seamlessWicks Estate 2010 HHH in Australia, while New balance of all theAdelaide Hills Limes and gooseberries Zealand had a massive characters, rather thanSauvignon Blanc on a nose with a strong, crop resulting in some displaying just one overt2010 HHH1/2 yeasty character. Similar dilution. Many of these stand-out character.”Powerful, gooseberry- palate. $18 wines just lackedlike aromas with a Eradus Awatere brightness and freshness. Pebble Rowpassionfruit-like lift. Valley Marlborough MarlboroughPalate full of lingering Sauvignon Blanc Plantagenet Omrah Sauvignon Blancflavours. “Bring on the 2010 HHH Western Australia 2010 HHHHHoysters!” $18 Lemon sherbet aromas Sauvignon Blanc Long, lingering, elegantTerrace Heights and long, zesty, tropical 2009 HHHH wine with a nose thatMurray’s Barn flavours with a citrusy Smoky, ‘fume’ style of has an abundance ofMarlborough finish. $18 nose - quite savoury and asparagus, snow peaSauvignon Blanc Woollaston Nelson with some grassiness. and cut-grass aromas2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Interesting palate - great and some excellentFresh, clean, cut- 2010 HHH length of minerally canned pea andgrass bouquet and Aromas of snow peas mix flavours with some fruit passionfruit flavourslemon sorbet-like palate with canned asparagus. salad notes. $18 with bright acidity. $20with zesty tropical Obvious sweetness on anotes. $15.99 fruit salad palate. $18 McGuigan Discover Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 Gooseberry and canned peas on the nose and guavas and green beans on the palate, with zesty acid to balance. $15 Jacob’s Creek Reserve South Australia Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Nose like Fruit Tingles or sherbet lollies. More of the same on the palate, with green lime flavours. $18.49 Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 151

SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDSSaint Clair Family Saint Clair Family Saint Clair Family Sileni Cellar Selection Golden Grove EstateEstate Pioneer Estate Pioneer Estate Pioneer Marlborough Sauvignon BlancBlock 18 Snap Block 21 Bell Block 3 43 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHBlock Marlborough Block Marlborough Marlborough 2010 HHH1/2 Light, toasty oakSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Elegantly structured characters on the limey2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHH wine with spicy, tropical nose. Much the sameLovely, well-balanced Riper style with kiwi/ Some nice pungency fruit characters nicely for the palate. Brightexample of the variety - fejoa-like fruit characters. to the nose, with floral balanced by bright acid spine. $22not over the top. Some Lovely lifted aromas elements. Fleshy melon lemony acidity. $20 Logan Orangeminerality to the nose, and good persistence palate with some Brangayne of Sauvignon Blancand a very clean, precise of tropical fruit flavours. residual sugar and some Orange Sauvignon 2010 HHHtropical fruit palate. Nice mouth feel. Good development showing. Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Vibrant, varietally correct“Very drinkable.” $24.95 green acid. $24.95 Popular style. $24.95 Zesty grapefruit bouquet wine with some kiwiSaint Clair Family Greystone Waipara with a tropical edge, and fruit characters. GoodEstate Marlborough Valley Sauvignon Goldwater Wairau crisp gooseberry/lime fruit/sugar balance. $22Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2010 HHHH Marlborough palate that’s juicy in the Starborough2010 HHHH1/2 Restrained gooseberry/ Sauvignon Blanc mouth. $22 MarlboroughLovely juicy and melon nose and youthful, 2010 HHHH Penfolds Thomas Sauvignon Blancflavoursome wine zippy palate with zesty Punchy, guava bouquet Highland Adelaide 2010 HHHloaded with great guava tropical fruit and zingy and excellent juicy, fresh Sauvignon Blanc Lifted, leafy noseand passionfruit-like acidity! One judge passionfruit and guava 2010 HHH1/2 with some exotic fruitcharacters, with some admitted to swallowing flavours with some Lively tropical and lime- characters. Good flavourresidual sugar overtones instead of spitting! $23 sweetness and soft like fruit characters with profile - quite sweet. $22balanced by crisp, soft acidity to match. Good some residual sugar Two Rivers ofacidity. $20.95 Frog Belly Margaret commercial wine. $20 sweetness and minerally MarlboroughSaint Clair Family River Sauvignon Austins Geelong acidity. $21.99 ConvergenceEstate Pioneer Blanc 2010 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Koonara Bay of Sauvignon BlancBlock 11 Cell Pale green wine. 2010 HHH1/2 Apostles Geelong 2010 HHHBlock Marlborough Grapefruit lift to the nose Green limes, grapefruit Sauvignon Blanc Nose showing brightSauvignon Blanc and a simple tropical and grassy aromas and 2010 HHH floral notes. Pleasant2010 HHHH1/2 fruit palate with a nice tropical fruit salad flavours Estery floral/grapefruit flavours along the entireGreat, ‘in-your-face’, juiciness and showing mixed with zesty lemon nose and rich, ripe, length of the palate. $22typical New Zealand some mineral characters. characters. $20 flavoursome palate with Wirra Wirra Hidingstyle with lifted, pungent Lemony finish. $20 good crisp finish. $20 Champion Adelaidebouquet and fresh, 3 Drops Mount Hills Sauvignonmid-weight palate with Barker Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHgood varietal definition Blanc 2010 HHH Broader style with aand perfectly balanced Balanced wine with grassy nose and someacidity. $24.95 lovely rich, canned pea struck match nuances.Saint Clair Family characters married Grassy/passionfruitEstate Pioneer with gooseberries and flavours. $22Block 2 Swamp lychees. $22 Astrolabe DiscoveryBlock Marlborough Boston Bay The Awatere ValleySauvignon Blanc Great White Sauvignon Blanc2010 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHClean, lifted, flinty nose 2010 HHH Pungent nose with awith some gooseberry Clean, easy-to-drink green herbal element,overtones. Expressive wine that’s a zippy mix and fruit salad palatepalate with tropical fruit of tropical fruits, limes with soft acidity. $23.99characters that build in and mineral acidity. $22the mouth. Balanced,long and soft. $24.95DAY 1 - JUDGESNeville Falkenberg Simon Rowe Tom NewtonWine consultant. Formerly Buying and promotions Senior white winemakersenior winemaker for Ross manager for Sip ’n with Hardy WineEstate. Previously chief Save Cellars. Diploma Company. Formerly atWinemaker at Chain of of Wine Marketing. Stonehaven Winery.Ponds Wines for five years; Twelve years in the Has been with Hardys35 vintages completed, retail liquor industry, for the past 20 years.with 26 years at Tollana and including managing For the past three yearsPenfolds Wines. Associate Parade Cellars in SA. has been an associatejudge Adelaide and judge at the Griffith andCanberra wine shows. Canberra wine shows.152 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

varietal tastingSaint Clair Family Hardys Oomoo Riverby Estate SAUVIGNONEstate Pioneer Adelaide Hills Marlborough BLANCBlock 19 Bird Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc $25 +Block Marlborough 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHSauvignon Blanc Smoky/sweaty bouquet; Smells of lychees and 22 TASTED2010 HHH quite fresh with a dry tinned chestnuts and 15 AWARDEDVery pungent/sweaty but generous palate has a soft, restrained butaromas. Some and long, lingering fruit balanced palate. $20 Very strong, consistentintense tropical/citrus flavours. “Surprisingly Forrest The Valleys class; a big step upflavours. High level of good,” thought one Awatere Sauvignon from the previous class.acidity. $24.95 judge. $23.99 Blanc 2009 HHH Overall there was more Slightly pungent grassy/ fruit weight apparent,Clairault Margaret Domain Road herbaceous aromas and with some good ageingRiver Sauvignon Vineyard Central an intensely flavoured styles for enjoying nowBlanc 2010 HHH Otago Sauvignon tropical fruit palate. $22 or later. These wines hadBig nose smelling Blanc 2009 HHHH O:TU Single the vibrancy of fruit andof tinned pineapple Flavoursome wine that’s Vineyard Awatere the acid to carry forward.juice. Austere palate ageing beautifully and Valley Marlboroughwith mouth-coating has lovely richness of Sauvignon Blanc Nautilusflavours. $24 melon/lychee fruit with 2009 HHH Marlborough nicely balanced residual Varietal fruit characters in Sauvignon BlancSaracen Estates sugar and acid. $22 abundance. Great flavour 2009 HHHH1/2Margaret River Glazebrook persistence. Drinking Rich wine with poise,Sauvignon Blanc 041ºS 174ºE well now. $23.99 balance and very2010 HHH Regional Reserve Watershed Senses attractive varietal fruit.Floral/talcum powder- Marlborough Margaret River “Has everything goinglike nose and up-front Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc for it,”enthused onetropical flavours. Good 2009 HHH 2009 HHH judge - fresh, liftedcommercial style. $24 Riper, slightly developed Seductive musky/ gooseberries, cut grass style with big hit of melon/ rosehip-like aromas. and nutty notes. $31.95Tohu Marlborough gooseberry fruit and some Rich, flavoursome palateSauvignon Blanc zingy acidity. $20 with complexity and Borchardt New2010 HHH interest. $24.95 England SauvignonLeafy bouquet with fruit Jacques Lurton Blanc 2010 HHHHHsalad overtones. Sweet Touraine France Clean, lifted and flintyand oily in the mouth, Sauvignon Blanc on the nose, with thewith zesty acidity. $20.99 2008 HHH suggestion of cheesy/ Nose of “cordite and leesy elements.SAUVIGNON cap guns over oak”, Surprisingly elegantBLANC suggested one judge. palate, bright and bouncy,2009 & OLDER Big, oaky palate, but it with varietal flavours and$20 - $25 works well. $22 offering good ageing potential. $2826 TASTED8 AWARDED DAY 2 - JUDGESDisappointing group and,with a few exceptions,most have lost theirfruit vibrancy, resultingin tired, dry whiteflavours. The judgescommented that mostof these wines had notbeen “built” for ageing.David Lehmann Stephen Meyer Derek FitzgeraldSelf-employed and White winemaker for Winemaker forself-titled “Winemaker Orlando Wyndham with Thorn-Clarke winesand Opinionater” for the Richmond Grove brand. in the Barossa.the past 13 years. Has Has previously worked in Previously winemakerbeen an associate the Barossa Valley, SA and for Bremerton (SA),judge at various Mudgee and Griffith, NSW. Ferngrove (WA), andnational wine shows. Conducted a vintage in Arrowfield (NSW) for Republic of Georgia (2001). seven years. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 153

SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDSSouthern Highland Babich Headwaters Te Awa Left Field Beach Head Watershed ShadesWines Oldbury Organic Block Hawkes Bay by Credaro Margaret RiverReserve Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River Sauvignon BlancBlanc 2010 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 HHHTextbook sauvignon blanc 2010 HHHH Broad, perfumed, Semillon 2010 HHHH Soft, well-structuredwith excellent varietal Oak a touch obvious pungent ‘pong’ and good Sauvignon blanc wine with light tropicalfruit sitting in the New at the moment. Some bouncy, pear/apple palate characters more obvious fruit character andZealand lifted gooseberry grapey/floral notes. with loads of acid. $25.95 on the nose. Vibrant, excellent fruit/acid/sugarspectrum. Great flavour Palate a nice balance of lifted, grapey/floral balance. $16.95length. Awesome fruit, acid and residual Wither Hills Single palate that has great Galafrey SBSbalance between fruit sugar, with unusual Vineyard Rarangi acid grip and a nice Western Australiaand acid. $31 flavours. $27 Marlborough creaminess. $16 Sauvignon BlancPaul Nelson Mount Hungerford Hill Sauvignon Blanc Four Sisters Semillon 2010 HHHBarker Fume Blanc Tumbarumba 2009 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Lifted citrus peel nose2010 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Nose that “smacks Semillon and mouthfilling cut-Attractive and very 2009 HHHH of autumn fruit” and 2010 HHH1/2 grass/citrus flavoursseductive wine with Attractive oaky ‘fumes’ big, sweet palate - Smells grassy, with with mouthwateringbalance and complexity. lift off the nose. Great well-made and “very asparagus and lemon acidity. $18Melons and green beans palate structure with oak convincing!” $25 zest overtones. Wise Sea Urchinon the nose and a dry, used really well. Some Palate a mix of citrus, Margaret Riverperfumed palate. $30 development and lovely Grower’s Mark gooseberry and green Pemberton flavour richness. $25 Marlborough bean flavours. $15.65 Sauvignon Blanc Matilda’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Vasse Felix Margaret Semillon 2010 HHH Western Australia 2009 HHH River Sauvignon Subtle lemon myrtle/ Sauvignon Blanc Attractive varietal Blanc Semillon gooseberry aromas 2009 HHHH characters on complex 2010 HHH1/2 and seamless palate Ripe, sweaty, tropical nose. Balanced and Interesting, toasty blend with good flavour aromas and very tight, bouncy, unctuous melon with attractive varietal persistence. $18 mid-weight palate with palate. $25.90 fruit and the oak giving Churchview Estate some grapey/nectarine a nice textured element. Margaret River flavours and good acid. Nepenthe Petraea Nice mouthfeel. $25 Sauvignon Blanc Should age well. $25 Adelaide Hills Palandri Vita Novus Semillon 2010 HHH Seresin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Frankland River Interesting, flavoursome Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Margaret River wine with solid varietal 2009 HHHH Tropical fruit crowd Sauvignon Blanc fruit characters and Restrained and austere, pleaser with good use Semillon generous texture. $18.50 with all of the varietals of light, toasty oak and 2009 HHH1/2 Sandalford Estate “in their proper place”. some sweetness. $25.90 Lemony nose with Reserve Margaret Smells like a ripe, some opulent oak. River Sauvignon peeled kiwi fruit and Churton Exciting palate, quite Blanc Semillon has an abundance of Marlborough different from the rest; 2010 HHH mouthfilling flavours. $27 Sauvignon Blanc flavoursome and very Interesting, complex, Ross Hill Orange 2009 HHH drinkable. $25 spicy fruit nose with green Sauvignon Blanc Unctuous, mouthfilling acid that powers through 2009 HHHH wine with really the palate. $22.95 Funky, barrel ferment/ long gooseberry and De Bortoli Windy gunflint bouquet and “summer breeze”-like Peak Victoria quite tight, linear palate characters. $26 Sauvignon Blanc with hints of the usual Semillon 2009 HHH varietal characters, SAUVIGNON Nose like lemon tart. balanced by zesty lemon BLANC Strong acid palate with acidity. $30 SEMILLON some restrained oak and Bird in Hand floral flavours. $14.90 Adelaide Hills 27 TASTED Sauvignon Blanc 10 AWARDED 2010 HHH Delicate nose with gentle “The semillon brought varietal characters and the lesser sauvignon very tight, quite acidic, blancs up, but brought tropical/lemon palate. $25 the better sauvignon blancs down!” said one judge. “Nothing really stood out,” said another. “But they were all good quaffers - even the borderline wines.”154 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINQUEENSLANDPEPPERS’ HOT OPENING DEAL FUN FOR FOUR COUPLES TOUR GRANITE BELT ONLINEPEPPERS Broadbeach, the first five-star HAMILTON Island, owned by the Oatleyaccommodation to open on the Gold Coast in family of Wild Oats and Robert Oatley Wines VISITORS to Granite Belt cellar doors can nowa decade, is the first metropolitan property in fame, has a new accommodation option: a research their trip in advance by going to thethe Peppers portfolio. A special opening rate collection of luxury Yacht Club Villas. Ideal new Granite Belt Wine and Tourism website,(valid until March 1 while the finishing touches for groups of up to eight people, the four- www.stanthorpe.com, a one-stop shop for allare still being made to the resort) of $265 bedroom, four-bathroom villas look out over the local tourism information. The new portalper room includes accommodation in a one- Dent Passage, Hamilton Island Marina and provides access to four main categories ofbedroom suite, a Taste of Peppers gourmet the surrounding Whitsunday Islands. information: regional visitor information, socialhamper including products sourced from media, a media centre and wikis. The designother popular Peppers destinations, unlimited All are individually designed by renowned enables the main revolving image gallery tonew-release in-room movies, unlimited in- architect Walter Barda and reflect his vision reflectthechangingseasons.Theregion’sotherroom internet and free on-site parking. While of creating an informal ambience that makesthe on-site food and beverage facilities and the most of the beautiful island setting. The main website, www.granitebeltwinecountry.room service will not be available until March, villas, designed with natural timbers and com.au, is also getting an upgrade.there are plenty of dining options nearby. sweeping lines, include furnishings by leading design group, Coco Republic. They Summit Estate is the new regional star, Mantra Group CEO Bob East says the have a spacious open-plan living/dining leaping to a five-star rating in James Halliday’s505-room property will be the biggest in the room with complimentary movies on demand 2010 Wine Companion and snapping atPeppers group. “The architectural design and state-of-the art gourmet kitchen with the heels of neighbour Boireann, which hasreflects a distinct fusion of city sophistication Miele appliances. Guests have access to an enjoyed five-star status for some years.and coastal relaxation, with both towers exclusive waterfront lagoon pool and everyfeaturing an extensive use of life spaces villa has the use of a four-seater golf buggy. Granite Belt wineries rated includeincluding Zen gardens, tai chi lawns, Ballandean Estate, Boireann, Golden Groveprivate cinemas, guest lounges, teppanyaki A concierge team can arrange tee timesbarbecues, steam rooms, saunas and lap, on the new Hamilton Island golf course andplunge and resort pools,” he says. reservations at ultra-luxe Hamilton resort qualia’s restaurants and spa - exclusive There’s kerbside check-in and iPads for facilities that are available by invitation only toguest use, as well as quirky guest services non-qualia guests. Prices start from $4050 for asuch as retro scooters to explore the Gold three-night stay for up to eight people sharingCoast or custom-made surf boards to ride a villa. Included is an 18-hole round of golf forthe nearby waves. The one-, two- and three- two, a 90-minute Mala Mayi Massage at Spabedroom apartments will also feature a qualiaanddinneratHamiltonIsland’ssignaturepillow menu, gourmet minibar with local and restaurant, Bommies, to the value of $400. Seeorganic products and a pre-order gourmet www.hamiltonislandyachtclubvillas.com.au.pantry delivery service. Phone 1800 987 600. HOT SPOT FOR A FEED BRISBANE’S Oaks Charlotte Towers boasts it is the spiciest spot in the CBD with the opening of the new Chilli & Spice restaurant. Proprietor Tina Ratanavaraha also owns the established Thai Orchid Restaurants in Milton and Springwood. Chilli & Spice offers a diverse menu with lunch specials, including a cold drink, for just $17. Corkage is just $6. The restaurant is open Monday to Friday for Western breakfast, Monday to Friday 11.30am-2.30pm for lunch and Monday to Saturday 5.30-10pm for dinner. It’s at 128 Charlotte St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3012 9888.156 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

travelbriefsEstate, Granite Ridge Wines, Heritage Estate, LURLEEN’S Local produce on the menu includesHidden Creek Winery, Jester Hill Wines, LOCAL FLAVOURS bugs, sand crabs, tiger prawns and squidLucas Estate, Mason Wines, Ravens Croft from Moreton Bay, scallops from FraserWines, Ridgemill Estate, Robert Channon RESTAURANT Lurleen’s at the Sirromet Island, king prawns from North StradbrokeWines, Summit Estate, Symphony Hill Wines, cellar door facility at Mt Cotton is one Island, venison from Texas, cheeses fromTobin Wines and Whiskey Gully Wines. of Australia’s most successful winery Kingaroy and Mt Tamborine, strawberries restaurants in the country and won the and vegetables from Redlands, and figsBARREL’S NEW BLOOD national modern Australian category in from Richlands in Brisbane. the 2010 I Love FOOD Awards hostedTHE BARREL Room Cafe at Ballandean Estate by the Lifestyle FOOD Channel. More Restaurant Lurleen’s is open for lunchhas a new look, with Mary Puglisi and her team than 100,000 public votes were cast to from 11.30am Wednesday-Saturday eachhaving stepped down after 14 years preparing determine national category winners. week, and dinner from 6pm on Thursdays,hearty Italian-themed dishes for visitors. Now Fridays and Saturdays. Breakfast isa new young team has taken over and added “What makes this award special is the served from 8am to 10am on Saturdayssome different dishes to the menu. and Sundays. Phone (07) 3206 2999. public voting,” says executive chef Andrew Young chefs Matt and Bobbi Wells, regular Mirosch. “It’s a seal of approval from our NEW DIRECTIONvisitors to the Granite Belt, are the new customers for our food preparation and FOR JAVIERincumbents after satisfying the Puglisi family presentation, and service. We have aof their commitment to quality. point of difference compared to many LEADING Brisbane chef Javier Codina restaurants because customers can relaunched popular Brisbane CBD bistro Both have had extensive experience; combine the dining experience with wine Gianni’s as MODA, aiming to offer qualityworking in large resorts around the state, tasting at cellar door or going on a tour food in an informal atmosphere. Thepreparing meals for large conventions as well before or after their meal.” Barcelona native’s innovative dishesas a la carte menus. They intend to regularly capture the essence of his culturalchange the menu and reflect the changes of Restaurant Lurleen’s is a 220-seat venue influences - Catalan, French and Italian -season in Ballandean. Dishes on offer include between Brisbane and the Gold Coast, with meshed with his professional expertise incaramelised onion and blue cheese tart, views overlooking vineyards, Moreton Bay some of the world’s great restaurants.wild mushroom soup infused with truffle oil, and Stradbroke Island. Andrew, a formerconfit duck with Parmesan polenta, sauteed professional fisherman, oversees a team MODA serves house-baked bread, barcabbage with braised prunes and red wine jus of 15 chefs and apprentices who prepare food and share plates, through to moreand tagliatelle of roast chicken and tomato with about 1800 meals a week. He says the intricate culinary creations. The menuconfit of garlic and thyme. The Barrel Room menu, which offers matching Sirromet also features adobo cooking - bakingCafe is open every day except Tuesday for wines, reflects a long-term commitment to in fresh clay. For lovers of paella, itlunch from noon until 4pm and on Friday and regional and seasonal produce. “We know is available for Friday lunch, or whenSaturday evenings for dinner. Matt and Bobbi the fishermen, farmers, and producers in the ordered 24 hours in advance.also intend to open on Sundays for Breakfast region because we deal with them regularly.in the Vineyard. Phone (07) 4684 1326. Local seafoodisamongthebestinAustralia.” Javier says he personally visits the markets most mornings to select ingredients to fuel his lunchtime MODA Market Menu, which features two courses for $35 per person from a selection of three entrees, three mains and two desserts, plus a glass of wine. MODA is open for lunch Tuesday to Friday from noon-3pm and offers a bar menu from 3-6pm, with dinner from 6pm Tuesday- Saturday. It is at 12 Edward St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3221 7655. Above: Moda Restaurant. Opposite page Left: Peppers Broadbeach. Right: Hamilton Island luxury Yacht Club villas. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 157

177 TASTED91 AWARDEDQUEENSLANDThe pick of the bunch this year were the red blends Heritage Estate Winesand varietals with an honourable mention for Granite Belt Verdelhochardonnay and wines from the ever reliable shiraz 2010 HHHcategory. This tasting was judged in conjunction with Pungent, grassy charactersthe Queensland Wine Awards, with Chief Judge Neil mingle with fresh citrus andMcGuigan supervising the panel. spicy complexity. $18.50SPARKLING Whiskey Gully Wines Bent Road Winery Barambah Wines First E.B. Sparkling Marsanne 2010 HHH Grid South Burnett7 TASTED Chardonnay 2006 HHH Quite a vinous style, with Verdelho 2010 HHH3 AWARDED Very interesting ‘Old World’ some attractive zesty citrus Clean, balanced and very style; savoury and spicy and characters. $23 varietal, with elegant freshnessFairly plain group of wines with burnt butterscotch aromas and gentle minerality. $19lacking complexity, with three and flavours. $34 VERDELHOworth looking at. Symphony Hill Wines OTHER WHITE 19 TASTED Verdelho 2010 HHH VARIETALS 6 AWARDED Hot, rich wine with a lovely & BLENDS tropical fruit element. Has Disappointing result, although depth and balance. $25 13 TASTED there was good underlying 5 AWARDED varietal fruit quality in those Gowrie Mountain Estate wines recommended. But, Verdelho 2009 HHH This class reflected the difficult as one judge warned, “Good Lifted, lemony nose and 2010 vintage but the viogniers winemakers need to show interesting palate - slightly in particular show promise. care with the variety during toasty and quite hot. $N/A and post fermentation.” Heritage Estate Wines SEMILLON BLENDS Granite Belt Marsanne Summit Estate Wines 2010 HHH Granite Belt Verdelho 5 TASTED Delightfully perfumed nose and 2009 HHHH1/2 3 AWARDED a long, zesty, citrusy palate. $20 “An awesome varietal,” enthused one judge. It’s “An uninspiring group,” agreedSirromet Signature Robert Channon Wines austere, complex and long, the panel. “Sugar is no substituteSelection Granite Belt Granite Belt Pinot Gris with lovely acidity and vibrant for fruit,” noted one judge.Sparkling Red 2008 HHHH 2010 HHH citrus fruit and sweetness.Opaque red with a crimson Simple wine with a slight pink The nose is musky, the palate Ballandean Estate Winesedge. Quite a plummy nose with tinge and some ‘accurate’ weighty and balanced. $20 Semillon Sauvignon Blanca spicy/peppery lift and a rich, varietal definition. $24.50 2010 HHH1/2smooth palate with good length Summit Estate Wines The Clovely Estate White Label Punchy and pungent, withof sweet fruit flavours. $35 Pinnacle White Granite Verdelho 2010 HHHH excellent tropical fruitRobert Channon Belt Marsanne Viognier Soft, medium-bodied, ripe concentration. Well structuredWines Singing Lake 2009 HHH varietal with a fruit salad-like and complex, with a lovelyGranite Belt Sparkling Very pretty wine with interesting fruit profile and lifted musk stick richness. $18Chardonnay 2008 HHH earthy/savoury characters and a characters. Nicely structuredPungent tropical bouquet juicy, succulent texture. $19 palate - very flavoursome. $14 Heritage Estate Winesand good length of powerful, Symphony Hill Wines Wild Granite Belt Semillonconfectioned, honeyed Child Viognier 2008 HHH Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHflavours. $27.50 Pretty rose petal bouquet and Lemon blossom and sweet light herbal palate. Still very honey aromas, and a complex fresh and vibrant. $30 and interesting passionfruit palate. $18.50 Clovely Estate White Label Semillon Chardonnay 2008 HHH Toasted brioche bouquet, and balanced pear and apple palate with honeyed richness. $14158 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

regional tastingSEMILLON Rumbalara Estate Wines OTHER Hidden Creek Winery The Buffalo Granite Belt RED BLENDS Granite Belt Cabernet4 TASTED Unwooded Chardonnay Merlot Petit Verdot2 AWARDED 2010 HHH 21 TASTED 2008 HHH Rich and soft, with zesty fruit 14 AWARDED Elegant style with leafy noseCouple of good wines but the salad and citrus characters and balanced, flavoursome,judges found even those lacked obvious on both nose and Robert Channon green capsicum palate. $22depth of flavour. palate. $13 Wines Granite Belt Ballandean Estate Shiraz Cabernet Wines Family ReserveMason Wines Granite Belt Robert Channon Wines Sauvignon 2008 HHHH Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHHSemillon 2008 HHH Granite Belt Chardonnay Rich, ripe, ruby red wine with Leafy cabernet nose andMedium straw coloured, 2009 HHH a lovely balance between cigar medium-weight, leafy palatesavoury style with some green Straw-like aromas and good box-like oak, clean, fresh varietal with asparagus-like notes. $25bean and mushroom-like balance between oak and fruit and simple tannins. $30 Pyramids Roadelements. $18 refreshing, zesty, tropical fruit Ridgemill Estate The Wines Bernies Blend flavours. $18.50 Mongrel Cabernet Malbec Granite Belt ShirazClovely Estate Left Field Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Cabernet 2008 HHHSemillon 2006 HHH Ravens Croft Wines Great vibrancy, with good Medium-bodied, oaky styleCrisp, balanced and long varietal Granite Belt Chardonnay length and concentration of with lifted, spicy herbaceouswith green herbal characters. 2009 HHH black fruits and capsicum. Lifted fruit. Clean and fresh in theSome astringency. $20 Strong malo/toffee richness nose and velvety palate. $18 mouth. $35 on the nose, and tropical fruit Woongooroo Estate Clovely Estate WhiteCHARDONNAY flavours on the lightly oaked Bin 19 Cabernet Shiraz Label Shiraz Merlot palate. $28 Cabernet Franc 2009 HHH Cabernet 2007 HHH17 TASTED Lifted, spicy, aromatic berry Quite sweet and developed,7 AWARDED Clovely Estate White Label bouquet and fleshy fruit palate verging on porty. Lots of oak. Chardonnay 2008 HHH with good flavour length. $18 Ageing well. $14Some very good examples Well-developed wine with Summit Estate Wines Alto Ballandean Estate Winesof the variety here, with one some mustiness and good Granite Belt Monastrell Family Reserve Cabernetoutstanding wine. The lesser overall texture and balance. $14 2009 HHH Merlot 2007 HHHwines exhibited unripe fruit Spicy green berry nose and tart, Dusty varietal nose and goodcharacters of green pea and Ballandean Estate green fruit palate with lovely blackcurrant fruit palate withwere marked down as a result. Wines Family Reserve mouthfeel. Easy to drink. $35 fine tannic structure. $25“If you are going to use oak Chardonnay 2008 HHH Ridgemill Estate Pedigree Whiskey Gully Wines Repit is important to use quality Clean, sweet and tropical with Shiraz Mourvedre Red Cabernet Sauvignonoak,” said one judge. nice nutty/leesy notes, lifted Grenache 2008 HHH Shiraz 2006 HHH oak and a touch of sugar. $22 Very good charry oak style Ageing gracefully, with obviousRobert Channon Wines matched with spicy herbal/ classy oak and sweet/sour fruitReserve Granite Belt ROSÉ varietal fruit and tart acid. $18 characters. $20Chardonnay 2007 HHHHH Twisted Gum Clovely Estate WhiteElegant, modern, oak-driven 4 TASTED Shiraz Cabernet Label Cabernet Merlotstyle of chardonnay with great 1 AWARDED Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2006 HHHcomplexity and amazing depth Stylish cool-climate wine with Balance of sweet/sour fruitand integration of varietal fruit/ Hotch-potch of styles, with no wonderful length of brooding, with leafy-like charactersoak flavours. “An excellent stand-outs. rich, olive-like fruit characters. $20 supported by good tannins. $14wine,” declared one judge. $35 Granite Ridge Wines Granite Ridge Wines Bilby Red 2007 HHHRidgemill Estate Pedigree Merlot Rosé 2009 HHH Long, balanced blend withChardonnay 2009 HHHH Medium red colour, attractive, good varietal charactersRiper style with excellent lifted aromatics and a dry palate showing through. $17depth of tropical/melon fruit with delicate earthiness. $18characters, with some powerfuloak sitting on top and goodlevel of acidity to balance. $20Sandy Godfrey Steven Thimios JUDGESOwner of Godfrey Wines State manager in Queenslandand Group Sommelier for for The Wine Company, a David DonaldCloudland in Brisbane. wine distributor. Previously Curator of ChampagneFormerly winemaker for he was an on-premise Gallery. Wine RetailerTim Adams wines in Clare manager for Tyrrell’s in and Educator for the pastand sommelier at five Queensland. Associate judge twenty years. Judge atrestaurants across Sydney. with the Brisbane wine show. the Queensland Wine Awards and Associate at the Brisbane Wine Show. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 159

QUEENSLANDOTHER RED Ridgemill Estate Grand Hidden Creek Winery Pyramids RoadVARIETALS Inquisitor Tempranillo Granite Belt Tempranillo Wines Granite Belt 2009 HHH 2008 HHH Merlot 2008 HHH22 TASTED Pleasant, dark and vibrant - Dark, brooding, savoury Nose of pepper and spice, with11 AWARDED intense colour, rich floral fruit style with firm berry fruits, attractive sweet and ‘crunchy’ and firm tannins. $18 wonderfully chewy tannins and black fruit flavours. $22Solid class without the number Robert Channon Wines astringent acidity. $22of highlights expected. Granite Belt Pinot Noir Mason Wines Granite BeltThe tempranillos shone, the 2009 HHH MERLOT Merlot 2009 HHHpetit verdots were stylistic Attractive perfumed bouquet, Medium-bodied merlot withwild cards and there was one followed by a heavily oaked, 8 TASTED fresh and spicy bramble fruitvery good pinot noir. grippy, tannic palate. $35 4 AWARDED and long, furry tannins. $18Ballandean Estate Wines Clovely Estate Left Field The number of winesNebbiolo 2009 HHHH Barbera 2008 HHH recommended says it all; a fairly CABERNETRuby red wine with lovely bright, Gamey, tannic wine with bright plain, uninspiring group lacking SAUVIGNONfresh varietal fruit showing leafy/ purple colour and an attractive the necessary fruit concentration.herbal notes. Palate still tight, herbal/spicy character. $20 16 TASTEDwith good level of tannins and Heritage Estate Wines Tobin Wines Elliott Granite 8 AWARDEDflavour length. $17 Granite Belt Tempranillo Belt Merlot 2008 HHHPyramids Road 2009 HHH Light and simple, spicy/ The 2009 vintage winesWines Limited Release Subdued nose but an herbaceous style with lots showed well but it was aGranite Belt Mourvedre interesting palate - surprisingly of sweet oak and greenish disappointing field of ‘08s, with2009 HHHH soft and juicy and with good tannins. $35 many dilute, herbaceous wines.Lovely bright, clean varietal flavour concentration. $25 Symphony Hill Winesloaded with attractive dark berry Symphony Hill Wines Reserve Merlot 2006 HHH Symphony Hillfruits showing a spicy lift, great Tempranillo 2009 HHH Licorice notes on the nose, and Wines Cabernetgrippy tannins and tart acidity Long, light and elegant red a lovely bright fruit palate laced Sauvignon 2008 HHHHcompleting the picture. $30 berry and raspberry fruit style with wood and tannins. $45 Bright and elegant wine with aRavens Croft Wines with fine tannins. Has great lovely focus of redcurrant-likeGranite Belt Petit Verdot poise. $25 fruit. Vibrant violet lift to the nose2009 HHHH Gowrie Mountain Estate and a rich, full-bodied palate withGood colour and excellent Tempranillo 2008 HHH balancing tannins. $25bright floral fruit - has great Big and extracted, with overtconcentration and drive. Still a oak over light varietal fruit. Firm Granite Ridgevery youthful wine with plenty and well structured. $N/A Wines Top Block Cabernetof years ahead of it yet. $35 Rimfire Touriga Nacional Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 2005 HHH Rich, full-bodied black fruit/ advert 178x90 mm 10-2007 Sweet, spicy and long. Great tannic style of cabernet length of black fruits with some with, as one judge noted, fierce tannins. $25 “everything going for it”. $25 31/10/07 3:48 PM Page 1 World’s best Wine pricesDo you want the real wine price story? Do you want to check trends?Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange has the world’s best Wine Auction sale price database.Every bottle sold over the past ten years, perfectly searchable and cross referenced.And it’s Free! Just go to the Web site. Sterling Wine Auctions, specialists since 1992,offering full Live Online E-trading to clients all over the world and Old Fashioned personal service. FREE Auction Catalogues and FREE Bidder Registration. Phone Lynton for a chat on 08 9388 9955 or 0418 949 837, or log on www.sterlingwine.com.au Wine Auctions & Exchange160 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

regional tasting Summit Estate Wines Reserve Granite Belt Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Brilliant dark ruby/purple colour with black pepper/blackcurrant characters lifting off the nose and filling the excellent palate with lingering flavours. Nice level of velvety tannins. $25Tobin Wines Luella Plum Mt Tully Vines ShirazGranite Belt Cabernet 2009 HHHHSauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Light and very elegant shirazLovely wine with vibrant with a great colour profile.black berry fruits, strong, firm Has plenty of attractive,tannins, clean oak and a high lifted, bright blackcurrant fruitacid level. $35 characters with lovely pepperySabrina Estate Cabernet elements. $18Sauvignon 2009 HHH Granite Ridge WinesGood level of ripe, spicy black Granite Rock Shirazfruits dominated by chocolaty oak 2008 HHHHand some great tannins. $N/A Clean spicy/peppery varietalTwisted Gum Cabernet - a touch developed - withSauvignon 2009 HHH powerful toffee-like oakInky crimson colour and characters and sweet primaryloads of charry/coffee oak fruit. Lovely and soft and rich inseamlessly layered with the mouth. $21powerful tannins. $22 Mason Wines Granite Belt Shiraz 2008 HHHH Soft, rich and medium-weight style of shiraz that’s loaded with dark berry varietal fruits and shows a bright and lively spicy lift. $20Clovely Estate Whiskey Gully Wines BlackReserve Cabernet Rod Shiraz 2006 HHHHSauvignon 2007 HHH Gorgeous oaky nose andSoft and fleshy and ageing nicely. velvety-soft, medium-bodiedQuite a closed nose but nice palate brimming over withdark, stewed fruit flavours. $28 masses of chocolaty oak with lovely varietal fruit beneath. $26Symphony Hill Wines Granite Ridge WinesReserve Cabernet Granite Rock ShirazSauvignon 2007 HHH 2007 HHH1/2Sweet and simple and very Firm, balanced, elegant wineyouthful, with a good hit of with great intensity and length ofjuicy, ripe varietal fruit. $45 black fruit and plum characters with firm tannins. $21Whiskey Gully Wines Twisted Gum ShirazReserve Cabernet 2009 HHHSauvignon 2006 HHH Very toasty and oaky but withGreat savoury/chocolate box some intense blueberry fruitnose and a youthful, greenish sitting behind. Good level ofpalate. Nice use of oak. $26 tannins. $22 Normanby Wines ShirazSHIRAZ 2008 HHH Vibrant hues, candied nose28 TASTED and lively sweet red fruits on19 AWARDED a firm, tannic, medium-weight palate. $20Some interesting wines here, Robert Channonwith a few good examples of Wines Granite Beltthe variety, but there were also Shiraz 2008 HHHtoo many wines showing unripe Inky nose with some lovelyfruit characters and oxidation. earthy notes, followed by a“Close attention to hygiene is green tannic palate. $20important,” said one judge, “asis the need to use quality oak.” Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 161

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regional tastingRumbalara Estate SWEET WHITEWines Granite Belt Shiraz2008 HHH 7 TASTEDMuted chocolaty nose and 5 AWARDEDmedium-bodied, oaky palatewith sweet stewed fruit Some terrific sweet wines withbeneath. $20 vastly different styles.Squished Berry Shiraz2008 HHH Ballandean EstatePowerful minty/menthol Wines Sylvaner 2006characters mingling with a (375ml) HHHHdense, dark concentration of Lovely golden wine withvarietal fruit. $20 attractive toasty/honeyed noseBallandean Estate Wines and some delightful glace pearFamily Reserve Shiraz richness to the palate. The2008 HHH wine is both elegant and veryVery oaky wine - supple and complex. $15silky-smooth in the mouthand showing attractive Ballandean Estate Winesdevelopment. $25 White Pearl 2010 HHHBent Road Winery Estate Sweet tropical aromas and aShiraz 2008 HHH fresh, clean, confectionery palateLifted, perfumed/spicy bouquet with lovely fruit length. $14.50and lovely fruit/tannin comboon the palate. $28 Summit Estate WinesPyramids Road Star Jasmine Granite BeltWines Granite Belt Muscat 2010 HHHShiraz 2008 HHH Bright, fresh muscat bouquetSpicy/herbal wine with a and a palate that has richness,leathery nose. The tannins are length and zestiness. $17ripe and acid slightly tart. $30Squished Berry Reserve Felsberg Winery BellShiraz 2008 HHH Tower GewurztraminerSubdued, chocolaty nose and 2010 HHHmedium-bodied red/black fruit Perfumed Turkish delightpalate with more chocolate. $35 nose and fresh, lively palateTobin Wines Max Granite with perfect acid/sweetnessBelt Shiraz 2008 HHH balance. $19Dark and extractive ‘Old World’style with a closed, chocolaty Whiskey Gully Winesnose and lovely long, soft, Nectar 2006 HHHtannic palate. $35 Awesome toasty/honeyedMount Tamborine wine with vibrant acidity andVineyard & Winery Black extraordinary flavour length. $25Shiraz 2008 HHHSpicy nose and tarry palate FORTIFIEDthat’s rich and spicy, withbright acid and balancing 6 TASTEDtannins. $45 3 AWARDEDSymphony Hill WinesShiraz 2007 HHH Interesting luscious fortified fruitPleasant, clean, simple and wines with great flavour intensity.juby, with a leafy nose and veryflavoursome palate. $25 Granite Ridge WinesSettlers Rise Reserve White Muscat NV HHHHShiraz 2005 HHH A developed fortified withLeathery shiraz with dry, dusty potent honeyed/toffeetannins and good concentration characters on the nose andof varietal fruit. $35 palate. Has some hot alcohol and a nice spicy element. $20 Riversands Wines Major Mitchell White Muscat 2009 HHH A clean fresh and very fruity fortified with a citrusy zestiness. The flavours linger on. $15.50 Ballandean Estate Wines Vintage Shiraz 2006 HHH Hot and developed with the spirit tending to dominate but showing good flavour concentration. $18 Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 163

139 TASTED80 AWARDEDPINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIOA white wine that has taken New Zealand by storm is now James Oatley Tic PINOT GRIGIObecoming popular in Australia. Whilst there is still considerable Tok Adelaide Hills UNDER $15confusion over the gris and grigio styles, sometimes differing from Pinot Gris 2009 HHHthe definition of grigio being leaner and drier and the gris richer Pear-drops and anise 11 TASTEDand oilier. Sugar was also a factor with consumers not knowing on the nose with toasty 6 AWARDEDwhether they are getting a very dry wine or something sweeter. aged characters. Simple,Luckily here we are able to describe the difference. grippy palate. $17.99 Consistent group with Frog Rock Mudgee neither high nor lowPINOT GRIS Thorn-Clarke Pinot Gris 2009 HHH points. Grigios areUNDER $20 Sandpiper Eden Good ripe gris fruit lighter than gris but also Valley Pinot Gris producing pungent are less faulty overall.28 TASTED 2009 HHH1/2 aromas. Warming “Quite acceptable Simple, fresh, grassy alcoholic palate. $18 commercial wines that15 AWARDED nose and excellent, Taylors Adelaide offer good value for flavoursome palate with Hills Clare Valley money,” said one judge.The judges found lots of compelling length and Pinot Gris 2009 HHHwinemaking issues here, very good balance. $15 Smells of rose petals Taylors Promisedsuch as high alcohol and Farmers Market with apple/pear tones Land Southsweetness resulting in Marlborough Pinot and has a simple, sweet Australia Pinotunbalanced wines. The Gris 2009 HHH1/2 and balanced palate. $18 Grigio 2010 HHH1/2stand-out wines fit the Rich, full and balanced Babich Marlborough Fresh, vibrant, fruit-pinot gris mould. “This wine with fabulous ripe, Pinot Gris 2009 HHH driven style with astyle benefits from an punchy tropical fruit. Complex, oily, tropical sound but quite light andextra year of age to give “The wine almost over- fruit bouquet and long, simple varietal palate.extra complexity,” said delivers,” suggested balanced, full-flavoured Good wine. $13one judge. one judge. $19.90 palate; a touch hot. $19.95 Raidis Estate Wild Rock Sur Lie Beelgara EstateSaint Clair Family Art Wine Clare Cheeky Goat Otago Pinot Gris Range SEA PinotEstate Vicar’s Choice Valley Pinot Gris Coonawarra Pinot 2009 HHH Grigio 2010 HHHMarlborough Pinot 2009 HHHH Gris 2010 HHH Fresh, lighter, pear- Crisp, clean, fruityGris 2009 HHHH1/2 Interesting European Aromatic musky/tropical driven style with slippery lightweight with goodLovely bright and style with plenty of zing. nose, with an acid-driven mouthfeel. Basic but flavour length and somelifted, honeysuckle- Smells of marzipan and palate showing more of nice. $19.95 complexity. $8.95sweet bouquet and a has a searing acid palate the musky characters. $15 The Wine Societybig, sweet and very with intense flavours of Reillys Pinot Gris Regional Premium Patritti Blewittgenerous palate with an pears and apples. $18 2010 HHH Selection Tasmanian Springs Estateunctuous/oily texture. essenze Waipara Interesting pear-drop Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Adelaide Hills PinotExcellent example of a Pinot Gris aromas and a simple but Genuine Alsace style - Grigio 2010 HHHtrue gris style. $18.95 2010 HHH1/2 well-constructed palate all tropical and honeyed, Pear-drop aromasDashwood Light, vibrant, pear with a tannic grip. $18 with aged characters and long, dry, steelyMarlborough Pinot bouquet and quite an Nepenthe developing. $19.99 palate with musk-likeGris 2009 HHHH array of rich flavours. Adelaide Hills Pinot flavours. $9Punchy tropical Some good complexity Gris 2010 HHHnose with vibrant on an appropriately Clean, fresh, elegant Jacob’s Creekelderflower overtones. textured palate. $18.99 wine with good SEA Pinot GrigioGood concentration concentration of varietal 2010 HHHof fruit that builds to fruit characters. Well Crisp, pungenthoneycomb generosity made. $19.90 nose and bright andwith delicate floral interesting, fruit-drivennotes. $16 palate that’s fresh and balanced. $11.49 Jinda-Lee Pinot Grigio 2009 HHH Earthy, muscat-like bouquet and some light limey touches to the palate. $9.99164 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

varietal tastingAldi Stores The Black Chook Chain of Ponds Hahndorf Hill Winery Koonara BaySouth Point Estate Adelaide Hills Pinot Amelia’s Letter Adelaide Hills Pinot of ApostlesSEA Pinot Grigio Grigio 2010 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2010 HHHH1/2 Geelong Pinot2009 HHH Clean, well-structured Grigio 2010 HHH Vibrant, tropical, Grigio 2010 HHHFresh, light and simple and long wine with light, Fresh, simple wine with passionfruit aromas, True to the grigio style,wine that carries quite a vibrant pear-drop-like a sound palate that has almost sauvignon blanc- with lovely fruit vibrancylot of residual sugar. $4.99 fruit characters. $17 long, lingering flavours like, and a fuller-style and balancing acid. $20 Karanto Langhorne and light acid. $18 palate that’s long andPINOT GRIGIO Creek Pinot Grigio fresh, with everything in PINOT GRIS$15 - $20 2009 HHH1/2 De Bortoli perfect balance. $26 2010 “Yummy”, zesty, Gulf Station Quealy Mornington $20 - $2523 TASTED complex food wine with Yarra Valley Pinot Peninsula Pinot10 AWARDED genuine dry, flinty grigio Grigio 2010 HHH Grigio 2009 HHHH 16 TASTED characters and some Light and fresh, with Interesting incense-like 8 AWARDEDLots of borderline wines hessian-like notes. $17 delicate varietal fruit bouquet with delightfully Strong class at the upperin this group, with Grant Burge characters. Sweet lift spicy/nutty notes, and a end of the scores but withnot a lot of difference Benchmark South to the nose. Good food huge, oily, honeysuckle/ some pretenders at thebetween these and Australia Pinot wine. $19 jasmine palate that’s bottom end. Some wouldthe $10-15 line-up. The Grigio 2010 HHH more gris than grigio. $25 have performed better assame issue of “propped- Lovely refreshing wine PINOT GRIGIO Clyde Park Locale leaner grigio styles.up sugar” wines also that smells and tastes $20 + Geelong Pinotapplies here. of pears layered with Grigio 2010 HHH1/2 Sileni Cellar Selection honeysuckle. $15 8 TASTED Simple, lifted, apple-like Hawke’s Bay PinotRosemount Diamond Trentham 5 AWARDED aromas and a grippy, well- Gris 2010 HHHH1/2Label Pinot Grigio La Famiglia Pinot balanced palate with more Excellent concentration2010 HHHH Grigio 2010 HHH The judges found this of the apple elements; of beautifully pure varietalSuggestion of sweet, Powerful, lifted, bright group was a definite very European. $20 fruit, giving lovely liftedripe pears on the nose, fruit nose and very good step up, with the wines spicy/lime aromas and aand a well-structured varietal characters on making more of a vibrant tropical palate. Apalate with more distinct the generous palate. $16 “statement”. There was touch sweet and hot butpear-like flavours and McGuigan Discover higher concentration very good. $20some attractive phenolic Victoria Pinot Grigio of fruit but also a slightnotes. $15.99 2009 HHH stylistic confusion, with JUDGES Very aromatic nose and a some exhibiting more of palate with good balance, the rich gris characters. weight and power. Well- made wine. $15 Te-Aro Estate Minnie Alta Adelaide & Elsa Barossa Hills Pinot Grigio Valley Pinot Grigio 2009 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Simple, steely and Powerfully flavoured stylistically okay! Fresh wine with bright, nose and a flavoursome, forward fruit characters high-acid palate. $19.95 in the tropical range, Lou Miranda Estate long, lingering, Leone Barossa seamlessly balanced Valley Pinot Grigio palate and some hair oil- 2010 HHH like characters. $20 Delicate, musky, pear aromas. Nice fleshy palate with ripe, tropical fruit flavours and balancing acid. $16.95Bill Hardy Mark Robertson Scott RawlinsonCorporate oenologist for Chief winemaker for Wine consultantBRL Hardy Ltd. 28 years’ Cellarmaster’s Dorrien with Winescope. Formerwinemaking experience in Estate Winery. Formerly chief winemaker forplaces such as McLaren group white winemaker Serafino Wines atVale, Western Australia for Beringer Blass and McLaren Vale. Previouslyand France. Has judged chief winemaker for winemaker with Mildara atinternationally (France and Matua Valley, New Jamieson’s Run and WolfJapan), and been an associate Zealand. Show judge on Blass. Associate judgeor senior judge at more than the New Zealand wine at Canberra wine shows20 state and regional wine circuit over 10 years. and worked a vintage inshows in Australia. Northern California. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 165

PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO PINOT GRIS 2009 & OLDER $20 - $25 28 TASTED 18 AWARDED Quite a range of styles here, from the over- sweet and lean acid to the rich, lightly oaked wines. At the top of the class the fruit concentration was more evident, with appropriate oak use to balance.Overstone Wither Hills Wairau Saint Clair Seville Estate Drift MarlboroughHawke’s Bay Pinot Valley Pinot Gris Family Estate The Barber Pinot GrisGris 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Victoria Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/2Rich, full-bodied, yet Soft, sweet and oily, Gris 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2 Classical gris. Lovelyelegant wine. Nose is with plenty of lifted Complex nose smelling Very European in style, refined pear-drop aromasa complexity of limes, grassy/passionfruit of caramelised pears with with some lovely aged with tropical overtones,passionfruit and oak. characters with hints of hints of bacon bones. notes starting to come and a spicy palateLovely clarity of fruit on hazelnuts. “Chasing the Beautifully proportioned through. Toasty that’s flavoursome andthe palate, with flavours right style,” said one palate loaded with minerally/grassy nose grippy. $23of pears, citrus and rose judge. $20 powerful, Christmas and complex and Annapurna Estatepetals. $20 Koonara Lucy & cake-like flavours. Very perfectly balanced Alpine Valleys PinotSpy Valley Alice Limestone good! $20.95 palate. True varietal. $22 Gris 2008 HHH1/2Marlborough Pinot Coast Pinot Gris Vavasour Long Rail Gully Beautiful wine withGris 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 Awatere Valley Murrumbateman sweet floral aromasAmazingly deep golden Restrained nose with Marlborough Pinot Pinot Gris and excellent flavouryellow colour for a pinot lifted muscat notes, and Gris 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH concentration on thegris. Very Alsace in concentrated varietal Stylish, well-made pinot Supple wine with long, lingering palate.style - quite viscous and fruit flavours on quite a gris with a beautiful a lovely jasmine/ Nice oak. $20oily and slightly sweet, dry palate. $20 colour. Heaps of varietal honeysuckle bouquet -with hints of hazelnuts. Eden Road The Long fruit complexity lifts off fresh and complex - and“Chasing the right style,” Road Adelaide Hills the nose, followed by a followed by a lively,said one judge. $22.95 Pinot Gris 2010 HHH lovely nutty/sweet pear textured and minerally Complex lime, pear and palate; very powerful palate. $20.50 oak aromas with a long, flavours. $20 Saint Clair Family firm palate. Good food Estate Godfrey’s wine. $21 Creek Reserve Starborough Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 HHHH Gris 2010 HHH Made in a big, generous, Fragrant, spirity and sweet sugar-driven mould. Full nose - very attractive - and of flavour, with a soft and terrific sweet, elegant oak chewy palate that tastes palate. $24 like apples. $24.95 Maximus Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Pleasant honeydew melon nose and soft, balanced palate with chalky fruit flavours. $24.99166 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

varietal tastingStarborough Astrolabe Discovery Greystone Sand Huia Marlborough Saint & SinnerMarlborough Pinot Kekerengu Coast Dollar Waipara Pinot Gris Calling CardGris 2009 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Valley Pinot Gris 2009 HHHH Mistress TasmaniaLovely nose - a Lovely clarity and 2010 HHHH1/2 Sweet tropical fruit with Pinot Gris 2010 HHHcomplexity of sweet concentration of Interesting wine nutty notes on the nose. Quite light and elegantpears and apples - and sweet varietal fruit with yeasty ferment Supple and viscous in for a gris. Attractivesoft, fruit-driven palate with very good overall characters. Elegant the mouth, with lovely varietal fruit on boththat’s sweet and fat. $24 balance. $24.99 tropical fruit nose and rich, honeysuckle-like nose and palate, with aGlazebrook simple, vibrant and fruit characters. $25 hot finish. $26040ºS 177ºE Waipara Hills juicy palate with some Grower’s Mark Seppelt DrumborgRegional Reserve Soul of the South nice stewed pear/nutty Marlborough Pinot Pinot Gris 2010 HHHHawkes Bay Pinot Waipara Pinot Gris flavours. “All good!” $30 Gris 2009 HHHH Some pleasant herbal/Gris 2009 HHH 2008 HHH Nazaaray Genuine varietal showing pear drop elementsHuge, flavoursome wine Interesting mix of sweet Mornington some very attractive to the nose. Nicelywith heaps of character violet and leather saddle Peninsula Pinot Gris fruit maturity and nice balanced, minerallyand plenty of stewed aromas with good flavour 2009 HHHH1/2 viscosity with balanced palate. $26.99fruit elements. $20 concentration. $20.90 Very good example of sweetness. Fat, oily and Lawson’s Dry HillsRiverby Estate the variety, with some oaky palate. $25.90 Marlborough PinotMarlborough Pinot Mount Langi Ghiran unusual pungent/cheesy Wairau River Gris 2009 HHHGris 2009 HHH Cliff Edge Pinot Gris aromas and a powerful Marlborough Pinot Fascinating, complex,Smells of lemon curd 2008 HHH palate. A touch hot, with Gris 2010 HHH1/2 citrusy nose. Oily andand almonds. Palate Very dry for a gris. complex flavours and an Perfumed, rose sweet in the mouth, withquite hot and sweet, Subdued and steely elegant structure. $30 petal-like bouquet and jube-like flavours. $25with some grip. $20 on the nose and with a Clyde Park Vineyard reasonably balanced Matakana EstateWoollaston Nelson lively, elegant palate. $25 Bannockburn nutty/honeysuckle Matakana Pinot GrisPinot Gris 2009 HHH Geelong Pinot Gris palate. Some alcohol 2009 HHHLean, oaky aromas and PINOT GRIS 2010 HHHH heat. $25 Simple, fruit-driven noselong, ripe palate with an $25 + Nice complexity of Rockburn Central and oily/fruity palateoily mouthfeel. A touch honeysuckle and Otago Pinot Gris with a waxy texture. $27hot. $20 25 TASTED jasmine-like characters 2010 HHH1/2 Ross Hill OrangeSecret Stone 18 AWARDED on the nose. Long and Huge, sweet, juicy apple Pinot Gris 2009 HHHMarlborough Pinot elegant palate with nice nose, with more sweet Dry, simple and quince-Gris 2009 HHH As expected a strong weight of stewed fruit fruit intensity on the long, like, with subdued noseSimple, well-made, class. The panel flavours. $30 well-balanced palate. and long, lingeringsomewhat understated commented that Bald Hills Well-made wine. $27 palate. $35wine that’s sweet and there was a better Pigeon Rocks Chard Farm Centralnutty. $20.99 understanding of the Central Otago Pinot Otago Pinot GrisGladstone 12,000 gris style, with richness Gris 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2Miles Pinot Gris of fruit coming from Intensely pungent/sweet Simple, lolly-like nose2009 HHH the best vineyards and fruit bouquet and long, and full-flavoured andFull-on oily/honeyed retained in the bottle. textured palate with weighty, honeycomb-likenosed with a pleasant “The better producers more of the pungency palate with very goodsweet, simple and fat are coming to the fore mixed with pear, jasmine acid/fruit balance. $27palate. $21 here,” said one judge and honeysuckle Tatty BoglerBurnt Spur characters. $25 Otago Pinot GrisMartinborough Seresin Marlborough 2009 HHH1/2Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Pinot Gris Sweaty/pungentGenerous, rich, 2008 HHHHH characters dominateripe, apple-like aromas Definitely a wine the varietal nose. Sweetand good concentration to serve with blue and flavoursome in theof sweet varietal cheese! Dry, minerally/ mouth; quite a complexflavours. $22 honeyed nose with palate. $30Man O’War Ponui funky complexity. Great Holm Oak TasmaniaIsland Pinot Gris flavour depth to the Pinot Gris 2010 HHH2009 HHH palate; slightly sweet Rose petals, limes andSmart wine made with balancing oak. citrus on the nose, andin a European style A touch warm. $30 an acid-driven palatewith lovely fragrant with sweet flavours. $25aromas and flavoursome Spring Valepalate. $22.99 Freycinet Coast Tasmania Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH1/2 Delicate aromas of pears and hazelnuts with a light touch of oak. Similar characters on the nicely balanced chalky/ acid-driven palate that winds up quite dry. $28 Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 167

contact detailsFor a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.auHUNTER VALLEY Paulett Wines Tobin Wines/Duclos Pty Ltd Angove Family WinemakersBallabourneen Ph: (08) 8843 4328 Ph: (07) 4684 1235 Ph: (08) 8264 2366Ph: (02) 4998 6505 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.pauletts.com.au Web: www.tobinwines.com.au Web: www.angove.com.auWeb: www.ballabourneenwines.com.au Preveli Wines Art Wine Pty LtdFirst Creek Wines Ph: (08) 9757 2374 RIESLING Ph: 0411 422 450Ph: (02) 4998 7293 E-mail: [email protected] Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Wines E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.preveliwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre) Web: www.artwine.com.auWeb: www.firstcreekwines.com.au Rocland Estate Pty Ltd E-mail: [email protected] Australian Vintage Limited/McGuiganIvanhoe Wines Ph: (08) 8562 2142 Web: www.jacobscreek.com Ph: (08) 8524 0200Ph: (02) 4998 7325 E-mail: [email protected] Richmond Grove/Orlando Wines E-mail: atrescowthickE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.roclandwinery.com Ph: (08) 8563 7303 (winery) @australianvintage.com.auWeb: www.ivanhoewines.com.au Thomas Hardy Wines Pty Ltd E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.avl.com.auKrinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard Ph: 0411 191 043 Web: www.richmondgrovewines.com Australian Vintage Ltd T/A Nepenthe WinesPh: (02) 9986 1644 E-mail: [email protected] Seabrook Wines Ph: (08) 8398 8801E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.thomashardywines.com.au Ph: 0427 224 353 E-mail: [email protected]: www.krinklewood.com Trentham Estate E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.nepenthe.com.auMount View Estate Ph: (03) 5024 8888 Seppeltsfield Beelgara EstatePh: (02) 4990 3307 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8568 6237 Ph: (02) 6966 0208E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.mtviewestate.com.au Trevelen Farm Wines-Great Southern Wine Web: www.seppeltsfield.com.au Web: www.beelgaraestate.com.auPoole’s Rock/Cockfighter’s Ghost Ph: (08) 9826 1052 Treasury Wine Estates Cappa StonePh: (02) 9563 2500 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8568 7318 Ph: 0428 243 959E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.trevelenfarmwines.com.au E-mail: carmel.nelson E-mail: [email protected]: www.poolesrock.com.au Vok Beverages @treasurywineestates.com Web: www.cappastonewines.com.auTallowwood Mount View Ph: (08) 8182 1866 Web: www.fosters.com.au Churchview EstatePh: 0437 267 064 E-mail: [email protected] Yalumba & Hill Smith Family Vineyards Ph: (08) 9755 7200E-mail: [email protected] Wines of Willochra Ph: +61 8 8561 3562 E-mail: [email protected]: www.tallowwood.com.au /DJ & D Meyers Family Trust E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.churchview.com.auTamburlaine Organic Wines Ph: 0409 043 229 Web: www.yalumba.com Clovely Estate Pty LtdPh: (02) 4998 7570 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (07) 3876 3100E-mail: [email protected] SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDS E-mail: [email protected]: www.mywinery.com PINOT GRIS/ GRIGIO Blue Pyrenees Estate Web: www.clovely.com.auTopper’s Mountain Wines Aldi Stores Ph: (03) 5465 1111 Drift NZ Pty LtdE-mail: 0411 880 580 Ph: (03) 8369 3119 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: 0400 377 115E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bluepyrenees.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: www.toppers.com.au Web: www.aldi.com.au Credaro Family Estate Web: www.driftwines.com Annapurna Wines Ph: (08) 9755 1111 Endeavour Vineyards/Alta VineyardsNEW RELEASES Ph: (03) 5754 4517 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8388 7155Alepat Taylor E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.beachheadwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: (03) 9487 2599 Web: www.annapurnaestate.com.au Domain Road Vineyard Web: www.altavineyards.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Art Wine Pty Ltd Ph: +64 3 477 7737 Gilbert WinesWeb: www.alepat.com.au Ph: 0411 422 450 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9851 4028Balgownie Estate E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.domainroad.co.nz E-mail: [email protected]: (03) 5449 6222 Web: www.artwine.com.au Drift NZ Pty Ltd Web: www.gilbertwines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Drift NZ Pty Ltd Ph: 0400 377 115 Hungerford Hill Wines Pty LtdWeb: www.balgownieestate.com Ph: 0400 377 115 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4998 7666Barossa Ranges Vineyards Pty Ltd E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.driftwines.com E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8524 6600 Web: www.driftwines.com Jules Taylor Web: www.hungerfordhill.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Greystone Wines Ph: +64 3 578 1390 Karanto Vineyards Pty LtdWeb: www.barossarangesvineyards.com.au Ph: +64 272 525 331 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8537 3106Ferngrove Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.julestaylor.com E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 9363 1300 Web: www.greystonewines.co.nz Lou Miranda Estate Web: www.karanto.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Hahndorf Hill Winery Ph: (08) 8524 4537 Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/Web: www.ferngrove.com.au Ph: (08) 8388 7512 E-mail: [email protected] Richard HamiltonFox Creek Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.loumirandaestate.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 8830Ph: (08) 8556 2403 Web: www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au Mount Riley Wines Ltd E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Saint & Sinner Ph: +64 3 577 9900 Web: www.leconfieldwines.comWeb: www.foxcreekwines.com Ph: 0429 660 223 E-mail: [email protected] Moppity VineyardsGiesen Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.mountriley.co.nz Ph: (02) 6382 6222Ph: 0425 431 622 Web: www.saintandsinner.com.au Paul Nelson Wines E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Seville Estate Ph: 0414 311 217 Web: www.moppity.com.auWeb: www.giesen.co.nz Ph: (03) 5964 2622 E-mail: [email protected] Ridgemill EstateHaan Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.paulnelsonwines.com.au Ph: (07) 4683 5211Ph: (08) 8562 4590 Web: www.sevilleestate.com.au Red Earth Estate Vineyard E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Sileni Estate Ph: (02) 6885 6676 Web: www.ridgemillestate.comWeb: www.haanwines.com.au Ph: +64 6 879 8768 E-mail: [email protected] Robert Oatley Vineyards Pty LtdHeidenreich Vineyards E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.redearthestate.com.au Ph: (02) 9433 3223Ph: (08) 8563 2644 Web: www.sileni.co.nz Southern Highland Wines E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Spy Valley Wines Ph: (02) 4868 2300 Web: www.robertoatley.com.auWeb: www.heidenreichvineyards.com.au Ph: +64 3 572 9840 E-mail: [email protected] Stella Bella/Suckfizzle/SkuttlebuttKellermeister Holdings Pty Ltd/ E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.shw.com.au Ph: (08) 9757 6377Trevor Jones Web: www.spyvalleywine.co.nz Tohu Wines E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8524 4303 Vavasour Wines Ltd Ph: +64 3 520 9230 Web: www.stellabella.com.auE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Tapestry WinesWeb: www.kellermeister.com.au Web: www.vavasour.com/ Web: www.tohuwines.co.nz Ph: (08) 8323 9196Lavina Wines www.cliffordbay.co.nz Vavasour Wines Ltd E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8323 9646 Wither Hills Vineyard Ltd E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.tapestrywines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 3 520 8270 Web: www.vavasour.com/ Taylors Wines Pty LtdWeb: www.lavinawines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] www.cliffordbay.co.nz Ph: (08) 8849 1151Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Web: www.witherhills.co.nz Warner Glen Estate Pty Ltd/Frog Belly E-mail: [email protected] Hamilton Ph: (08) 9337 4601 Web: www.taylorswines.com.auPh: (08) 8323 8830 QUEENSLAND E-mail: [email protected] Topper’s Mountain WinesE-mail: [email protected] Bent Road Winery Web: www.warnerglenestate.com.au Ph: 0411 880 580Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Ph: 0418 190 104 Yalumba & Hill Smith Family Vineyards E-mail: [email protected] Wine Co. E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +61 8 8561 3562 Web: www.toppers.com.auPh: 0430 360 650 Web: www.bentsroadwinery.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Wise WineE-mail: [email protected] Sirromet Wines Web: www.yalumba.com Ph: (08) 9756 8627Web: www.musterwineco.com.au Ph: (07) 3822 0648 E-mail: [email protected] Estate E-mail: [email protected] TOP 40 Web: www.wisewine.com.auPh: 0413 996 625 Web: www.sirromet.com Amphora Wine Group Woongooroo EstateE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8331 8459 Ph: (07) 5496 3529Web: www.noonji.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.amphorapremiumwines.com.au Web: www.westatewine.com168 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010



aftertasteELISABETH KINGRaising the bar - Mad Men andthe return of the cocktail hourTHE OPENING words of the fourth season of contention. Nostalgia for a Frank Sinatra, Astrud Gilberto, Roy OrbisonMad Men, the cult TV series set in a 1960s happier time - when petrol and maybe the Singing Nun, as a joke onad agency, were: “Who is Don Draper?” The was cheap, doctors actually Betty Draper’s frosty demeanour.question rang true only for the actor who recommended smoking andmouthed the line. Countless viewers have lunchtime drinking wasn’t Matthew Weiner, the creator of Mad Men,gone crazy about the magnetic, enigmatic frowned upon - has helped the is a stickler for authentic details. Even thecharacter played by Jon Hamm and popularity of formality and Mad ice cubes used in the show are made inabout Miss Holloway, the bossy secretary- Men in an era where economies 1960s trays. A good mixologist - in a barcum-siren whose curvaceous figure has move up and down like yo-yos and or at home - should always use the rightcatapulted actress Christina Hendricks to the no job is for life. equipment. In the early 1960s, hosts usedtop of lists tracking the world’s sexiest women. only fine stemware so it’s best to follow suit. Let’s be frank, too. The nosedive To add an even more historical note, pour Mad Men, which screens on SBS1 on in the popularity of the cocktail your liquors into decanters with metal labels.Sunday nights, has also had a massive was also caused by poor-quality The right bar tools are crucial, too, so stock upimpact on fashions for both sexes and ingredients and sloppy mixing. on a cocktail strainer, plastic pour spouts, ais credited with the renaissance of A Tom Collins, for example, is long-handled bar spoon, a wooden muddler,what bartenders call crafted cocktails - made with lemon, sugar, soda an ice bucket and short and tall shakers.highballs, the Old Fashioned, the Tom and gin. Bars trying to make aCollins and the Martini. In the US, the UK fast buck started using Tom Collins powder Cocktails make great sundowner drinks inand Australia - where the show has created and prefab sour mix. Yuck. But just as the summer and I’ll be mixing up the authenticlevels of fan mania normally associated fervour for Mad Men is based on the fact recipe for Don Draper’s Old Fashioned - thewith teen flicks such as Twilight - mixology that the clothes and manners are so sleek, one he prepared for Conrad Hilton when heclasses such as How To Drink Like Mad so sexy and so quality, bartenders stoking presented the hotel mogul with his new adMen, which teach devotees to make a the revival of cocktails are using fresh plan. Place one sugar cube in the bottomManhattan and more, are all the rage. ingredients, top-tier liquors and precise, of a glass, put three dashes of Angostura time-honoured recipes. bitters on top, muddle the cube with a But the resurgence of good, well-mixed muddler, add one maraschino cherry andcocktails runs deeper than a TV show, it How far do you go, though, when planning a half wheel of orange and muddle again.seems. Sociologists think the reason why a Mad Men party? January Jones, who plays Add ice, 90ml of rye whiskey and stir. Don’tpeople are lining up to wear suits and ice princess Betty Draper, recently sent repeat the process too often, though. One’60s-style floral dresses and listen to the clink up her character on Saturday Night Live authentic detail of the 1960s can be left out:of ice cubes can be traced to two ‘rebellions’ with a choice of dishes for an evening get-that took place a generation apart. together that were almost as funny as the dialogue - gelatin salads, tomato soupshake The demise of the cocktail was caused, and marshmallow desserts. If you want toin part, by the rise of the hippies in the late follow the same route and risk heartburn,’60s. They didn’t want to drink ‘Ozzie and go ahead. But for your stomach’s sakeHarriet’-style drinks linked to images of it might be wiser to go for classics suchbored housewives and fake cheer. As time as coq au vin from another early 1960swore on, the ’70s saw the emergence of the classic - Julia Child’s Mastering The Art ofwine and beer revolutions, which increased French Cooking.choice and simplified drinking. By the ’80s,harsh drink-driving laws in most developed Music is a different matter. There are twocountries put the final kibosh on the glamour CDs of Mad Men soundtracks available.of the cocktail hour. Or you can scan the racks at your local music store for vintage compilations (they In a reversal of fortune, though, the urge usually cost about $10) for that atmosphericto play dress-up (you can’t really imagine a evening soiree. The singers of choiceguy in a T-shirt and jeans drinking a martini) should be Johnny Mathis, Ella Fitzgerald,has springboarded the cocktail back intonext issue: The Annual 2011 issue - take a retrospective with a wrap-up of Winestate’s best four, four-and-a-half and five-star wines from 2010.170 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

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The originalMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Brancott Vineyard is where we planted As a tribute and to honour our roots, Montana Marlborough’s first Sauvignon Blanc vines, wines from vineyards throughout Newnow our most famous varietal and the world’s Zealand will be known as Brancott Estate™. favourite New Zealand wine style.www.brancottestate.comENJOY BRANCOTT ESTATE WINES RESPONSIBLY