Winestate Magazine September October 2021

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 3 7 2 TA S T E D Featuring CLAIMING THE LIMELIGHT Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Penfolds Grange CWWINES REACHES Henschke Hill Of Grace TOP SHELF E.Guigal La Landonne Gralyn Estate Emerging Varietals Pertaringa Yeoman 146 tasted Sanguine Estate A Recipe for Success Monteperle Wines AIMING HIGH TEFNAuFtEuArTeEFCRoEcuEKs ’S September/October 2021 New Releases Vol 44 Issue 5 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) 160 tasted NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 plus Limestone Coast & Surrounds • Emerging Varietals • Semillon & Blends EUR 9.95 China RMB100 New Releases • South Island NZ (Otago, Nelson, Canterbury) HKD $120 CHF 15.00

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NO.309 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. phone +61 8 8357 9277 or Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, on-line www.winestate.com.au translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 FEATURES 30 A DEDICATED EXPERIENCE 34 Making their own way seems to 22 CLAIMING THE LIMELIGHT 42 AND THE WINNERS ARE… Out of the shadows and into the be the mantra for successful One This year’s category winners of Tree Hill winery, Tenafeate Creek. light, previous bulk wine producer With a commitment to quality and the Winestate Magazine World’s CW Wines reaches the top shelf innovation whilst simultaneously Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge when it comes to their award- treading a steady path, this singular XVI can be found on page 42. winning wine portfolio, reports focus seems to be paying off, Nigel Hopkins. reports Charles Gent. R E G U L A R S 8 Briefs 26 A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS 34 AIMING HIGH 15 NZ Briefs Clive Hartley explores the story They may be an unfamiliar name 16 European Report with Sally Easton 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley behind Sanguine Estate’s formula for to the wine scene, but Monteperle 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King success which includes equal parts Wines is already making a splash. 44 Grapevine passion and business savvy, along Starting completely from scratch 48 What’s it Worth? with a dash of heritage and bound has not deterred this newcomer 106 Aftertaste together by family. for aiming at the prestige market straight out of the gates. And what’s more astonishing is they’re achieving the awards to back it up, writes Nigel Hopkins. W I N E TAST I N G S 50 Shiraz/Syrah & Blends 64 Emerging Varietals 26 38 WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & 69 Semillon & Blends SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI 74 Limestone Coast & Surrounds Well, it seems that we’re not out 80 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases of the Covid-19 woods yet with difficulties in transport/freight, 86 South Island lockdowns and social restrictions (Otago, Nelson & Canterbury) causing havoc for this tasting. However, we are pleased to report that we still have some great wines to show you, and this includes some of the benchmark wines that we 92 New Releases and Best Value Buys purchased for your literary pleasure. under $20. Now we just need someone to invent “taste-o-vision”… Check out all of the results starting page 50. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 309 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2021 Cover image artjazz 4 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021



TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a discount coupon to use on your wine purchase. When travelling next to the Margaret River Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine tasting experience, the centrepiece of which is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the only one of its kind in Australia and has been a consistent regional award winner in the annual Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards. Visit the website for more information on the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting experiences on offer. 200 Chapman Hill E Rd, Chapman Hill WA 6280 E: [email protected] P: 0448 531 399 W: www.whicherridge.com.au WhicherRidgeWines whicherridgewines Scan the QR code to watch our story video on YouTube

editorial THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT WE ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD TO. Each year we put together a range of shiraz and syrah wines ranging from under $15 wines up to $200 plus wines, of course judged in ever increasing price categories. What makes this judging special is that at the pointy end we also pit the best of Australia against the best of France. As far as we know no one else does this, perhaps because these wines are normally not entered into these competitions and are quite pricey (with a reputation to maintain) so we go out and source them ourselves. As we have said many times, of all the reds, shiraz is the most reliable. Maybe because it is the most winemaker friendly, with its sweet natural fruit and soft tannins. If you have a wine list where you don’t know any of the wines shiraz or syrah is the safest option. In this year’s judging we saw some interesting results. At the $15 - $30 price ranges there were some good quaffers, but as the judges said “fresh is best” with older wines falling away dramatically. It seems that many winemakers are now making wines for early drinking, which is fine if you can sell them early, not so fine if they are hanging around after their use by date, showing early development. During the middle price ranges above $30 and up to $60 we saw a mix of results with some winemakers trying to extract more flavour out of their wines through added oak or added pressings, sometimes good, sometimes not. Here we also saw a mix of wines built for early aging and others built for cellaring. Our panelists did a great job in sorting out the wheat from the chaff. From $60 plus is where the true consistency began with very few duds. Whether young or old the wines showed greater fruit weight and excellent balance across the board. This continued in the ever higher priced categories culminating in the $100 – $200 category and the ‘bank loan’ over $200 category. In one sense it is great to see these wines reflecting the world class character that deserves the price. In another, consumers may be disappointed that some of these wines are now out of their price range. It should be noted however that our price categories show wines at their highest retail price level. In this difficult time there are tremendous bargains out there and now is the time to let your fingers do the walking and search out the best web or on premise deals. We have done our best to identify some great value or great quality wines. The rest is up to you. In this issue we were also pleased to present our annual Emerging & Alternative Varietals. Whilst there is some argument about what this involves, generally speaking it is any wine that does not involve the ABC’s (mockingly called “anything but chardonnay” also referring to the mainstream varieties of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, riesling and maybe a few others). Although there are a few exceptions (like durif) these tend to be mid weight styles that work well with food and can be less demanding. Anyway, for your pleasure our panels have identified some excellent examples from a range of different varietals. These have come a long way, with a combination of developing vineyards and winemakers showing their expertise with the winemaking of these varietals. For our regional judging we looked at the wines of the Limestone Coast which as expected performed well, with cabernet and chardonnay the standouts. Michael Cooper in New Zealand put forward his best wines of the issue with some highly rated examples from South Island’s Nelson and Central Otago. Our feature wineries in this issue include the Barossa’s Monteperle winery, Sanguine Estate from Heathcote, CW Wines with their portfolio of wines; Reschke, Schoolhouse Block and Stonehaven Wines and finally Tenafeate Creek in the Adelaide foothills. The latter was unfortunately caught up in a Covid scare in July, through no fault of their own. We urge you to check out their wines online or when going out to support them, as we suggest about other wineries featured or recommended. And of course we finish with our regular New Release judging where again there are many excellent wines on offer. Lots to try and lots to like. Enjoy! Your wine, our ports. Peter Simic Australia Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Editor/Publisher Major Sponsors and Supporters Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 7

briefs ONE STOP SHOP BROOKIE’S GIN IN BYRON BAY IMAGINE a one-stop THE Byron Bay hinterland is not known for its wines, but the region indoor market where is home to the Cape Byron Distillery and Cellar Door. you can taste and buy the best of West The distillery is home to Brookie’s gin and offers tastings, Australian produce, cocktails and tours. wines and beers while enjoying entertainment Visitors can enjoy tours of the nearby rainforest and distillery, and the chance to visit casual tasting flights and a range of seasonally inspired local glassblowers, cocktails that can be enjoyed on the balcony. Distillery tours woodworkers, indigenous include a G+T on arrival, a product tasting, tour and discussion artists and other artisans. for $40. The cellar door is open by appointment, so you will Due to open in November, the $50 million Origins Market in Busselton need to phone ahead. will be a big drawcard for both locals and tourists en route to or from Margaret River. Origins Market aims to showcase leading local The property is part of the Brook family’s macadamia farm providores, while also offering a shopping and dining destination. and products include a dry gin, a slow gin and a macadamia Busselton is one of Western Australia’s fastest-growing regional and wattle seed liqueur. centres and is just 10 minutes from the Busselton Margaret River Airport, which is now receiving direct flights from Melbourne. It is Call (02) 6684 7961 or visit www.capebyrondistillery.com located in a bustling new retail hub that already sees more than 25,000 weekly visitors. CALABRIA COMPLETION Over 100 curated West Australian growers, producers, artists and creators will come together under one roof, all sharing the market’s CALABRIA Family Wines’ purchase of McWilliam’s Wines is ethos of sustainability and connection to the land. Local Wadandi elder now complete. Wayne Webb is among the consultants. “For the past few months, I’ve been busily connecting with farmers, Calabria family patriarch Bill Calabria announced the producers and artisans across the state to share the Origins Market finalisation of the deal in a letter to associates. story and unearth new talent who are ready to take their vision to market,” says curator Louise Cashmore. “Both of our families have a rich heritage, contributing much The idea has been inspired by some of the world’s best markets – like to the Australian wine industry and the Riverina wine region,” London’s Borough Market and Barcelona’s Mercado de La Boqueria. he said. “Busselton is experiencing a steady population increase, particularly in young families and working professionals. When the new airport is “While the recent acquisition closes a difficult period for the operating as a gateway to Margaret River and beyond, we will see McWilliam family, I speak for everyone in the Calabria family further growth in tourist numbers and Origins Market will showcase that we aim to respect their many contributions to the growth a taste of what this region has to offer,” says developer Allan Ercig. of Australian wine and champion the unique attributes that Attractions will include offshoots of Homestead Brewery and have made the McWilliam’s name celebrated around the world. Mandoon Estate wines - both also owned by Ercig - deli operators, a fishmonger, gelato maker, cheese maker, coffee roaster, vegan “Since our own founding 75 years ago, the supportive and vegetarian options and even an active and observable beehive. relationships with our Riverina neighbours have always been an There will also be interactive stalls, hands-on workshops, pop-up important part of our journey, not least with the McWilliam family. restaurants, communal tables and local food trucks. “The McWilliams were instrumental in helping my father, “Nobody knows the finest Francesco Calabria, in establishing our vineyard and winery. local products better than I know that it’s in this spirit that Frank, Michael, Andrew and those based in the region of Elizabeth are proud and honoured to be working with Scott their origin, so we’re calling on McWilliam and the rest of the family to bring both of our West Aussies to nominate their businesses together in the best way possible. favourite local produce and makers too, to ensure we can “Our focus will be to integrate each McWilliam’s Wines truly advocate to have the best business department into our own - from production and sales of the West,” Cashmore said. For details see www. originsmarket.com.au. 8 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

briefs to marketing and operations. We aim to align all systems to work together, while both brands maintain their unique identities. “Our ultimate goal is to ensure we are both on a path to prosperity. Combined, McWilliam’s and Calabria have over two centuries of winemaking experience and excellence - and it is our goal to give the utmost respect to that. “While these businesses will continue to operate as two entities, both families will work together - stronger as one.” A GREAT WEEK OF WINE Nature World or a Great Eastern Wine Cruise with Wineglass Bay Cruises. See https://eastcoasttasmania.com/great-eastern- TASMANIA’S Great Eastern Wine Weekend is now the Great Eastern wine-week/ Wine Week with a program of over 50 events scheduled. WAY OUT WEST The popular festival will run from September 3-13, encompassing two weekends of tastings and events. This year HEADING west to taste some wines? marks the seventh year and a major expansion. The festival Wines of Western Australia, Wine Australia and Tourism is recognised as a significant contributor to the island state’s regional tourism economy and is supported by the Tasmanian Western Australia have created a new online and interactive Government through Events Tasmania. wine tourism guide called The Wine Adventurer designed to inspire and inform international and domestic visitors and help “As we enter our seventh year, we are immensely proud of our them plan trips into the state’s many and diverse wine regions. achievements in promoting not only the wine but the excellent diversity of regional produce, experiences, chefs, cooks, Eight wine regions are featured in an easy-to-navigate e-brochure caterers, providores, restauranteurs and communities of the that includes each region’s unique wine tourism experiences and East Coast,” said Glenn Travers of Craigie Knowe, chair of the hero wine varieties. The Swan Valley, Perth Hills, Peel, Geographe, East Coast Wine Trail. Margaret River, Blackwood Valley, Southern Forest and Great Southern each have a section with practical information such as driving distances, climate, harvest times, soil types as well as tips on what to eat, where to stay, what to do and must-see attractions. The 60-page guide features more than just wine, there is a cross section of experiences including, authentic regional dining, art and museums and cosy vineyard stays. From the accessible Swan Valley, an easy 25-minute trip from Perth CBD, to an epic road trip of 4.5 hours to the Great Southern, The Wine Adventurer is a useful resource. “From humble beginnings in 2015 when the Great Eastern Wine Weekend was a concept developed by RACT Destinations and Freycinet Lodge, the Great Eastern Wine Week has evolved into a ‘must do’ wine and food festival, positioning the East Coast of Tassie as one of Australia’s aspirational wine and food destinations.” Great Eastern Wine Week comprises 50 satellite events hosted by local cellar doors, restaurants, cafes, local producers and even a three-day walk on Maria Island, creating a full program of long lunches, degustation dinners, wildlife adventures, walks and wine tastings. The highlights will include Mingle with the Maker at Freycinet Lodge; Discover Freycinet Vineyard with Claudio Radenti; Trail, Shuck & Cheers at Boomer Creek and a Plumm glassware tasting at Craigie Knowe. Spring Vale, Devil’s Corner, Overtime, Milton, Ironhouse and Gala Estate will also be hosting events. For something different try Dine with the Devils at East Coast September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs Launching The Wine Adventurer, Wines of WA CEO Larry With a 24-hour reception, the rooms are well thought-out with Jorgensen said it is the first detailed wine tourism guide of its modern furnishings, extremely comfortable king beds with great kind in Australia. pillows, air conditioning, wifi, Nespresso machines and gourmet tea facilities. There are effective blackout curtains, too, for those “People love visiting wine regions and The Wine Adventurer wanting a lie-in, reports recent guest Winsor Dobbin. makes it easy for them to discover and find information about WA’s wine tourism experiences in one place, and it’s interactive, The bathrooms have good showers with quality Appels toiletries so if they want to book or find more info they can click through,” and there are plenty of charging points. Jorgensen said. The on-site Stage Bar & Kitchen was closed during Covid, but “The Wine Adventurer is designed to work with wineries that the kitchen turns out some spectacular breakfasts. The staff are have a unique bookable experience such as a wine flight very professional across the board, too. tasting, vineyard tour, barrel room wine and food pairing, or a degustation lunch. Rooms start from $199 - excellent value in a city that is booming. The upper-level rooms have some great light in the “There’s assistance through Wines of WA to help wineries mornings and evenings. There is no on-site parking. There are, create bookable experiences and be featured on The Wine however, plenty of public transport options on the doorstep, so Adventurer. you might not need a car. “For the international travel industry, it’s an important tool that See details here: https://www.peppers.com.au/kings-square/ raises awareness of WA’s wine region experiences, and it makes it easier for them to start incorporating wine experiences into A CONVICT CONVICTION itineraries driving visitors into the regions once borders reopen. On June 28, 1790, convict Thomas Heather arrived in Port Jackson “It’s also an excellent resource for businesses that service on board the Second Fleet ship Neptune. Of the 1006 convicts visitors such as cellar doors, visitor centres, attractions, on board the three Second Fleet vessels, 273 died during the restaurants, accommodation providers and for media writing voyage and 486 landed in Australia suffering from various illnesses about WA’s wine regions.” - including scurvy - from the arduous voyage. There is a supporting media kit and media library of stunning Heather survived and thrived in Australia, however, marrying imagery and video by renowned south-west photographer Elizabeth Lee, who arrived on the Third Fleet ship Mary Ann a year later. Frances Andrijch. Six years later he was granted 30 acres at Windsor, known as Jorgensen said that Wine Adventurer would be updated bi- Eather Farm (the H having vanished from the family name in the annually to remain accurate and relevant. mists of time). The Wine Adventurer can be found on WesternAustralia.com In 1831, Alexander Munro arrived in Sydney on the HSS York and or winewa.asn.au. in 1860 he planted the Bebeah vineyard at Singleton in the Hunter Valley, establishing a reputation for outstanding wines. THE PERFECT LOCALE The die was cast for the establishment of Meerea Park Wines, SO you want to be within walking distance of Perth’s downtown which this year is celebrating 30 years. core, but also want to stroll to Northbridge at night for a few drinks and meal. In 1910, Reginald Eather, the grandfather of Meerea Park wines founders Garth and Rhys Eather, married Harriet Cousins, Peppers Kings Square - just across the road from the Perth Alexander Munro’s granddaughter. Arena and round the corner from trendy King St - has location, location on its side. You are just a stroll from the CBD, boutique shopping, dining and laneway bar districts meaning it is an equally good choice for leisure or business stays. 10 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

briefs Today, the flagship Meerea Park wines are named after pioneer here. While most Hunter producers are best known for their and family member Alexander Munro. semillons and shiraz, the Scarborough family is probably most famous for its range of stellar chardonnays. Visitors to the cellar While the Eather family started growing table grapes during door also get the chance to try “The Obsessive” range, named World War II, it was not until much later that they planted after Ian Scarborough, who is known for his attention to detail wine grapes. In 1989, chardonnay vines were grafted onto in both the vineyards and the winery. This range comprises a table grape vines and in 1991 the first vintage of Meerea Park semillon, a chardonnay, and a shiraz ($30-$60). Chardonnay was released. Ian and Merrelea Scarborough are long-time Hunter residents, Fast forward 30 years and brothers Rhys and Garth celebrated having moved from South Australia in the 1970s, where Ian the 30th anniversary of their now booming wine business worked with the legendary Peter Lehmann at Saltrams. He as Sydney’s swish Aria restaurant, which - fittingly - directly then worked at Tyrrell’s before he purchased the Gillards Road overlooks Port Jackson and Sydney Cove (Circular Quay). property at the end of the decade. “We’ve had 195 years in the Hunter Valley as a family,” said Their decision to make chardonnay their flagship coincided Garth Eather. “At 23 and 25 years old we started a brand with with the variety’s boom - and the first vintage was made in 1987 just 351 cases of chardonnay.” in the garage of the house where the cellar door stands today. Today, Meerea Park produces over 10,000 cases of wine Jerome worked in various roles and from 1996-2000, he annually and exports globally. was Lindemans Hunter vineyard manager, before joining Scarborough Wine as general manager. In 2005, Jerome “We handcraft all our wines using fruit grown on some of the assumed the winemaking role under Ian’s guidance. Hunter Valley’s best vineyard sites that have a track record for producing the best possible grapes in both good and not so Keeping matters in the family, Jerome is married to viticulturist good vintages,” says winemaker Rhys Eather. Liz Riley, who consults to several producers across “We are Hunter Valley ‘terroirists’, specialising in individual the region. vineyard semillon, chardonnay and shiraz, sourced from unique vineyard sites.” Liz and Jeremy have two children, Callum and Winemaker Rhys Eather is a Roseworthy graduate in wine Hannah, both of whom science and has gained international winemaking experience are learning the family in France and Italy, spending the 1998 vintage at M. Chapoutier business. in the Rhone There are a range of The Meerea Park cellar door at Roche Estate in Pokolbin is paid tasting experiences open seven days a week. available at cellar door (Thursdays to Mondays), HARD TO BEAT helpful staff and some great views. It pays to FOR a real family wine tasting book for curated tastings, experience, it is hard to beat which can be matched Scarborough Wines in the Hunter with a cheese platter. Valley. Phone 1300 888 545. www. scarboroughwine.com.au. Not only are three generations of the Scarborough family actively involved, but the tasting room is in the old family homestead on Gillards Road in Pokolbin. The recently renovated facility is set up for groups large and small and you will almost certainly meet a Scarborough, whether that be founders Ian and Merralea Scarborough, winemaker son Jerome or his sister, marketing manager Sally Scarborough. There is also a point of difference September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs AWARDS A FAMILY AFFAIR FOR MARGAN land,” said Durie. “This collaboration with Tamburlaine was born through the mutual respect for land and how it’s managed. We are MAY was quite a month for the Margan family from Margan Wines tremendously excited to see this project from conception through and Restaurant in the Hunter Valley. to completion.” First Lisa Margan graduated from the WSET Diploma in Wine and Durie has been an ambassador for National Tree Day since Spirits course. Then her husband, Andrew Margan, was named 1999 and worked with Planet Ark on environmental initiatives for Hunter Valley Winemaker of the Year at the Hunter Legends Awards. over 27 years. He was previously named 2015 Viticulturalist of the Year and has consistently produced outstanding wines year after year. There are three wines in the collection: Wild Chardonnay, Malbec Shiraz and Cabernet Shiraz, each selected from organic vineyards Since planting their own small vineyard in 1991 with a focus across Orange and Canowindra in Central West New South Wales. on environmental sustainability, Margan is now a business that operates a successful winery, cellar door, restaurant and events True Earth Collective wines will be available for purchase business in the Broke-Fordwich sub region. exclusively online and through Tamburlaine cellar doors in the Hunter Valley and Millthorpe. All are priced at $30 with discounts TRUE EARTH FOR JAMIE DURIE &TAMBURLAINE for Tamburlaine club members. TAMBURLAINE Organic Wines has announced a collaboration See https://tamburlaine.com.au/collections/true-earth with gardening expert and environmentalist Jamie Durie to create a small batch of wines called True Earth Collective. The limited A MIGHTY ENDEAVOUR releases are from organically certified vineyards, but also come with extra benefits. THE craft drinks business is booming, and fast-moving Mighty Craft has announced the acquisition of Adelaide Hills Distillery, “We’re thrilled to be partnering with Jamie and Planet Ark on a Mismatch Brewing, Hills Cider and the Lot.100 venue. project that is so synergistic with our values,” said Mark Davidson, Tamburlaine’s chief winemaker. Mighty Craft managing director Mark Haysman announced the purchases of the businesses and the 84-hectare Lot “Tamburlaine has prioritised 100 property in the Adelaide Hills. As part of the $47 million organic and regenerative transaction, the businesses’ co-founders Sacha La Forgia, farming practices across Ewan Brewerton, Steve Dorman and Toby Kline will be retained our vineyards for over two to drive growth for the brands. decades now. We’re staunch believers that it’s the way The combination aims to transform Mighty Craft into a producer, forward for winemaking and wholesaler, and retailer, as well as create one of the largest craft more broadly for agriculture spirit producers in Australia and the potential to be a leading player in Australia.” in the craft whisky market. Haysman is excited by the cross-market opportunities that will be created by the enlarged craft beverage For every bottle of True Earth portfolio, bringing the required scale, synergies, and profitability purchased, consumers are to the Mighty Craft business. donating $2 to Planet Ark’s National Tree Day, as well as Haysman says that having the highly specialised production receiving fractional shares in and management from the Adelaide Hills-based businesses in an Australian sustainability exchange traded fund. “I am passionate about the need to honour and heal our 12 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

Mighty Craft to help integrate the brands, from a production, It is endorsed by Coeliac Australia and certified FODMAP friendly. distribution, and sales and marketing perspective, was an The Wilde brewing team, based out of Tribe Breweries’ headquarters essential part of the deal. in Goulburn, tweaked, tasted, and refined their beer recipes. “This merger wouldn’t have been possible without the support “Our brewers have been working around the clock to create the of Sacha, Ewan, Steve and Toby and we warmly welcome them to the Mighty Craft team,” he said. “They will guide us through this recipe and find a unique way of processing the sorghum in the beer, transition, ensure alignment of both our interests and people, and in order to improve its mouthfeel, maintain head retention and yet still drive growth for all our brands.” keep a crisp and refreshing taste,” says Roland Thiemann, head of innovation at Tribe Breweries. Adelaide Hills Distillery’s founder and head distiller La Forgia said he was excited by the opportunities for growth and profitability. “Carefully selected kettle hops improve the flavour, so you are left with a clean and refreshing drop that tastes just as good as its “We’re thrilled to be part of an incredible team that champions the gluten-based counterparts. growth of the Australian craft beverage industry,” he said. “Their knowledge and team will give us a unique position to grow; not only “Sorghum is frequently overlooked by beer producers, because with our current portfolio but also our emerging whisky offer that of the difficulties to brew with it. What many people don’t realise, will now be part of one of Australia’s largest craft spirit producers.” however, is that sorghum actually has many great health benefits and is highly nutritious with a good amount of iron, but also, it is Mighty Craft, formerly known as Founders First, also includes craft the better choice for our farmers! brands Ballistic Beer Co (Qld), Sauce Brewing (NSW), Slipstream Brewing (Qld), Brogan’s Way Distillery (Vic), Torquay Beverage “Since sorghum is drought resistant and demands significantly Co (Vic), Foghorn Brewery (NSW), Jetty Road Brewery (Vic) and less water than other grains, it makes it the perfect base from which Darwin-based Seven Seasons, which was started by former Port to brew Wilde Crisp Lager.” Adelaide footballer Daniel Motlop. Wilde Gluten Free Crisp Lager is available from leading retailers GLUTEN FREE BEER TAMED BY WILDE including First Choice and Liquorland, at an RRP of $21 per six-pack. DIETARY requirements, allergies and intolerances can be a See www.wildebeer.com.au. nightmare for restaurants and bars. FRESH LOOK FOR KIRRIHILL In addition to vegetarian and vegan requirements there are guests who need gluten-free food and drinks, who are allergic to dairy CLARE Valley’s Kirrihill Wines have unveiled a fresh look for products or perhaps on a Paleo diet, or with religious, or perhaps their Regional Series Riesling and Regional Series Shiraz; the cultural, imperatives. first of four new sub-ranges to receive a complete rebrand. Winemakers make a point nowadays of saying if their drinks ‘’This is an exciting new growth phase for the brand with are vegan-friendly and now Tribe Brewers are doing their bit a fresh, new identity which we’re confident will resonate to help coeliacs. strongly with our customers and attract new audiences with this repositioning,” says co-owner and commercial and export Earlier this month was a celebration of International Coeliac Day; the director Matt Lawson. perfect toast being Wilde Beers’ newest release: Wilde Crisp Lager. “This new look more strongly represents our premium offering This beer features pure sorghum to ensure it is 100% gluten free (GF), and is more aligned with our family ownership and commitment as well as being all natural and vegan friendly, as well as low carb. to making the best wines possible from our finest Clare Valley vineyards.” September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs Senior winemaker Andrew Locke said, “These are food friendly This release of The Caley is a blend of 71% Coonawarra wines for everyday enjoyment and socialising casually with cabernet and 29% Barossa shiraz, numbers Glastonbury says family and friends. The key is about approachability of flavour will vary from vintage to vintage depending on the season. and accessibility, designed to be generous in style but with soft tannins complemented by bright fruit.” He described 2016 as “a magnificent vintage. It gave us pristine fruit with richness and concentration”. The packaging represents an abstract view of the vineyard sites for each wine. Both wines retail for under $20. “The Caley 2016 comes into its own as a very sleek, refined and focussed wine. It is a wine that sets us on a clear trajectory FLYING THE FLAG FOR YALUMBA which we are very excited about. Aromatic, plush, rich, inviting, with the hallmark palate drive of The Caley.” MANY wineries have their established iconic flagship brands and Yalumba has the much more recent The Caley - named in The wine is named in honour of Fred Caley Smith, grandson of honour of a family pioneer. Yalumba’s founder Samuel Smith. Fred was a horticulturist who had a major impact on the development of Yalumba’s orchards Australia’s oldest family-owned winery is celebrating the and vineyards. He is best remembered for a ground-breaking global launch of the fifth release of The Caley - the 2016 vintage. research journey he undertook in 1893 and 1894 to the USA, UK, Europe, the Middle East, Sri Lanka and India. This unique blend of Coonawarra cabernet and Barossa/Eden Valley shiraz is the Yalumba flagship that celebrates over a His detailed and poignant letters to his father, sent home every century of cabernet/shiraz blends. few days, were collected and are kept in Yalumba’s archives. Each release of The Caley celebrates a step in Fred’s journey, “It’s a wine of style and substance that reflects the very best and for the 2016 vintage, the spotlight falls on January 1894 of two regions,” says winemaker Kevin Glastonbury. “In each and his journey to visit his family in the United Kingdom. vintage we are aiming for greatness, but each release will also reflect the year.” Yalumba The Caley 2016 is available at yalumba.com and in fine wine retailers with an RRP of $365. Fifth-generation proprietor Robert Hill-Smith said: “Since its inaugural release in 2017, The Caley has relied on our own provenance, integrity and enthusiasm which we have built over the past 172 years. “Through consistent narrative and quality, we have recruited a loyal base of connoisseurs across the world, and we are buoyed by the exceptional feedback we receive. “Having followed the ferments and the development of the wine since 2016 and worked alongside KG on the final blend, I cannot help but be excited about this release. It was an even ripening season, with clean bunches and exceptional balanced flavours.” 14 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW IT’S A (SMALL) WRAP by 8.6%. Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens says the forecasts suggest the wine industry will require a further THE grapes are in and now the numbers are too – New Zealand’s 1,515 jobs to be filled, no easy task with local accommodation 2021 harvest tipped the scales at 370,000 tonnes, a 19% decrease challenges and labour shortages an ongoing issue throughout on vintage 2020. For context, the previous three harvests clocked in at the country. “Attracting, recruiting and retaining that staff, and 457,000, 419,000 and 413,000 tonnes, New Zealand’s 10 year average ensuring enough accommodation is available to our sector and of grapes crushed is 383,000 tonnes, and net productive hectares others in our community, will require plenty of work,” Pickens says. increasing 5,500ha over this period, with the vast majority plantings “This is something that a range of stakeholders in our industry in Marlborough. Marlborough experienced the smallest harvest since and the community at large will have to problem solve together 2015, with crops down 21%, having Central Otago seemingly buck the but they are areas the wine industry here has found solutions to trend, harvesting 21% more grapes than the previous year, though this in the recent past.” can be mostly attributed to tonnages returning to the norm after a very reduced 2020 harvest. The 2021 harvest’s shortfall is largely the result ORGANIC WINE WEEK of cool spring weather and late frosts which cut their deepest swathe through the middle of the country with Wairarapa, Marlborough, Nelson NEW ZEALAND’S fourth Organic Wine Week will take place and North Canterbury suffering the greatest reductions in yields. As September 20th-26th to coincide with the spring equinox. detailed in the previous issue, 2021’s quality is impressive, but supply Restaurants and retailers will be offering a range of activities and demand tension is now acute for producers both large and small. including bespoke tastings and virtual events, to celebrate and It’s already being reported that producers have let go new contracts in raise awareness of New Zealand’s steadily growing cohort of order to supply existing long-term customers, a challenging dynamic organic wine producers. Chair of the producers’ association at the best of times but even more fraught in the volatile Covid-era. Organic Winegrowers New Zealand, Clive Dougall says, “Over the Along with the supply issues, producers are having to contend with last 12 months we have seen a massive upswing in demand for increased costs courtesy of a very tight labour market, a wine excise organic wine. Consumer awareness is increasing as more and more tax increase and ongoing lack of tourists whilst the NZ border remains people want to know where the product they are choosing comes largely closed. Local hospitality is bouncing back, albeit facing its own from, how it’s grown and the impact it has on the environment.” labour constraints, but life is still precarious for the many. Many small To find out what’s on, visit www.organicwinenz.com for the events wineries focused domestically or with more niche export channels calendar or follow OWNZ’s social media platforms for updates. (three-quarters of New Zealand producers farm under 20ha of land) have not benefited from the booming high-volume sauvignon blanc RIPPON CELLAR RELEASE sales that have driven New Zealand’s rosy export figures. “[Producers] have already been hit hard by the lack of international tourists post- GIVEN the local culture of buying and drinking wines (very) young, Covid, surging production costs, and the difficulties being experienced it’s rare to be able to buy an aged New Zealand Pinot Noir, let alone in the hospitality sector. There is now going to be some supply and one of its most celebrated examples. Central Otago’s Rippon is demand tension because of this harvest, with the shortfall in the crop releasing library stock of the 2012 Rippon ‘Rippon’ Mature Vines equivalent to roughly seven million nine litre cases of New Zealand Pinot Noir, a fantastic vintage that proprietor and winemaker Nick wine,” says New Zealand Winegrowers CEO Phillip Gregan. While Mills calls “‘the perfect storm’, a year in which the soil nutrition, the pressure is on for producers, the shortage means lovers of New growing season, team and vines all worked together to produce Zealand wine have one clear remit - get in quick. wines of extraordinary poise and precision: wines that spoke clearly of their home.” The vintage is also auspicious in that it represents MARLBOROUGH ON THE MOVE 100 years for the Mills family on the beautiful Wanaka property and 30 years of winegrowing, with Nick’s parents Lois and Rolf Mills A recent NZ Institute of Economic Research report underscores first planting vines in 1982. The cellar release is just the second just how important wine is to the wider Marlborough region. In for Rippon, with the 2010 Rippon ‘Rippon’ Mature Vine Pinot Noir 2020, the wine industry generated $571 million for the Marlborough released two years ago. Stocks are limited, so get in fast. economy, with 6,088 full time jobs either directly or indirectly associated with the industry, an impressive number considering MOST ADMIRABLE the main township of Blenheim’s population is 24,000 people and the wider region is just over 49,000. The figures do not include the THE UK-based Drinks International publication has released its significant number of additional seasonal roles such as cellar hands 11th Annual Top 50 World’s Most Admired Wine Brands list, voted and winter pruners. In the past five years Marlborough’s vineyard on by an international academy of wine professionals. Four New hectarage has increased by 24% to nearly 29,000 hectares, with Zealand wineries have gained a place – Felton Road at #14, Villa a further 18% increase (5,150 hectares) forecast over the next four Maria at #15, Craggy Range at #30 and Oyster Bay at #44. The years. By comparison, over the past five years vineyard plantings top spot was taken by Spain’s Familia Torres and two Australian in the country’s next largest wine region Hawke’s Bay, declined wineries made the Top 10 – Henschke at #4 and Penfold’s at #6. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW THE NITTY-GRITTY OF THE FTA IN June of this year, a free trade agreement to work to internationally agreed standards, from a different country. Various tariffs are (FTA) was made, in principle, between the so there is less divergence in wine. expected to be eliminated over a number UK and Australia. While the specifics of the of years according to the specific type deal may not be known for some months, The elimination of tariffs is a key aspect of goods. Another hoped-for benefit is and a final agreement signed maybe in of the FTA. A tariff is an import tax. It simpler, more streamlined paperwork, 2022 … let’s take a look at what we know so adds to the cost of doing business and and smoother, speedy administration. If far. Apart from that with the EU, it is the first importing stuff. So Australia charges tariffs the benefit of tariff removal is passed on trade deal that Brexit-UK has negotiated on stuff it imports from the UK, and the UK to consumers, then consumers in both from scratch, as it were. charges tariffs on stuff the UK imports from Australia and the UK could hope to see Australia. It makes stuff more expensive cheaper prices on the shelves. The FTA is for goods and services. There are plenty of details still to be Another hoped-for The WSTA (wine and spirit trade fine tooth-combed. From the UK side association) represents businesses that an aspect of concern is that related to benefit is simpler, more make, import, export, transport and sell farming, where minimum standards in the wines and spirits in the UK. They have two countries diverge. The UK’s Food and streamlined paperwork, welcomed the proposed free trade deal, Drink Federation (FDF) represents the stating, that from the UK exporting side, food and drink manufacturing sector, with and smoother, speedy gin and whisky look to be likely winners. For key stated themes around food safety, example, gin exports totalled £27 million environmental sustainability, and diet administration. If in 2020, and Scotch whisky £113 million. and health. Dominic Goudie, the FDF’s The FTA proposes to remove the 5% tariff head of international trade, said: “The the benefit of tariff levied by Australia on imports of UK gin UK and Australia are important trade and Scotch. partners when it comes to food and removal is passed on drink, with trade in our sector’s products The UK wine tariff that is proposed to worth more than £800m in 2020,” adding to consumers, then be removed is the European Union’s “Food and drink manufacturers will hope common customs tariff, which was ‘rolled that this deal will remove burdensome consumers in both over’ after the UK left the EU. This tariff is and unnecessary barriers to trade about 10p to 11p per bottle of still wine, that will provide a timely boost for our Australia and the UK varying according to the abv% (alcohol industry’s post-COVID recovery. The by volume), and about 22p per bottle of terms must also ensure that consumers could hope to see sparkling wine. have continued confidence that any agreement maintains the highest food cheaper prices on the The average price of a bottle of wine safety and animal welfare standards.” in a bottle shop is around £6.50. So 10p shelves. doesn’t seem like a huge win for the Wine is possibly less contentious. Both individual consumer. For the entirety of Australia and the UK are member states for consumers, and if the same product tariff removal across all sectors, the UK of the OIV (International Organisation of from another country is not subject to a government’s data suggest the benefit to Vine and Wine), a scientific and technical tariff, this means one country’s product consumers is likely to be about £1.22 per intergovernmental organisation working may be cheaper than the same product household per year. with vines and wine. Member states agree A key ‘win’ for Australian wine would be the removal of this wine tariff, given the 16 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

importance of Australian wine exports to In its entirety, the UK government has Follow us and keep up to the UK. Wine is Australia’s second-largest forecast the FTA will increase GDP (gross date with all our latest product traded to the UK, after gold. domestic product) by about 0.025% over wine info, tastings and 15 years, or about £500 million. But the Australian wine is the second highest numbers behind this specific deal are events on facebook, volume source of wine shipments into possibly not it’s most important attribute. twitter and instagram. the UK and is fourth largest in value It’s arguably a moot point whether a 0.025% terms. From the other side, the UK is boost to GDP over 15 years represents Connect on social with Australia’s biggest volume export market, a good negotiating outcome by the UK. Winestate a position held by the UK for more than As the first post-Brexit international trade 30 years. In 2020 more than a third of all deal, it is thought that this deal may form www.facebook.com/Winestate- Aussie wine exported went to the UK. something of a template for future trade Magazine By value, the UK is Australia’s second deals negotiated by the UK. It is also largest export market. A key reason for thought the deal might help smooth the twitter.com/winestateed second ranking value is that around 85% UK’s application for membership of the www.instagram.com/winestate/ of Australian wine shipped to the UK is CPTPP (Comprehensive and Progressive shipped in bulk. Once at the UK, it is Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership) www.winestate.com.au bottled and packed into other formats trading bloc, should the UK decide to apply. such as bag-in-box (cask wine), both for the UK market, and for (re-)export to The WSTA, and WineGB, the national other markets. association for producers of wine in the UK, were both approached for In terms of numbers, Wine Australia comment. reported that Australian wine exports to the UK in 2020 were 267 million litres (29.6 million 9-litre cases). The USA was second, with 136 million litres, and mainland China third, with 96 million litres. The value of those 267 million litres was AUD$456 million (~£250m). At 10p a bottle, the value of the proposed- to-be-removed tariff for those 267 million litres is around £36 million pounds of potential cost-of-business elimination for Australian wine entering the UK. Anjanette Murfet, chief people and communications officer at Accolade Wines (Hardys, Banrock Station, Grant Burge, House of Arras, Petaluma, among others) said tariff removal “will offer British consumers an even greater choice of Australian wines at more competitive prices”. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY NO WOOD NO GOOD NOW that is a contentious title to an article! petraea is a sessile oak. The difference in and this characteristic will slow down the Aromatic wine lovers would say oak is the two is down to the leaves and acorns. pick-up of oak derived aromas and flavours. not required, and in the case of riesling, Pedunculate oak leaves have no stalks, but The opposite is true about coarser grained gewurztraminer and to a point semillon and their acorns do and the opposite is true of oak. This feature can be used in different sauvignon blanc, they are probably right. the sessile. ways by the winemaker in getting a wine There are other wines, such as the majority ready for market. If a wine can only spend of Italian white varieties that don’t need oak. Q. petraea likes cool climates and is able say six months in barrel, then coarser grain But with red wines and chardonnay oak to grow on thin, poor soils. It is found in oak will have a bigger impact. On the other adds another dimension. the cooler northern and eastern parts of hand, if the winemaker chooses to mature France, especially in the Vosges Forest, a wine for 18 months or longer then fine Oak has been used as a storage and and has a tight grain adding complexity grain oak would be advantageous. It also transportation vessel for wine for two and spice to the wine. Q. robur is more depends on the grape variety. Pinot noir is thousand years. It is fit for purpose, being suited to richer soils and a slightly warmer a delicate wine and can easily be drowned a watertight wood and strong material out by strong oak aromas and flavours, for coopers to shape into barrels. The Oak has been used so fine grain oak is preferred. At the other discovery that this storage container end of the scale, shiraz is full bodied and actually improved and added complexity as a storage and intensely fruit driven so it can withstand a to the flavour of wine was a windfall. stronger flavoured oak. The cocktail of compounds responsible transportation vessel for these flavours include ellagitannins, Cost can come into the equation over which phenolic aldehydes and volatile phenols. for wine for two barrel to use and American oak is traditionally cheaper than French oak. One of the reasons Quercus is the Latin name of the oak genus thousand years. It is for this is that American oak is denser and and it belongs to the beech (Fagaceae) can be quarter sawn into logs, whilst French family of trees. Sitting underneath the fit for purpose, being oak must be split along its medullary rays genus there are between 400 and 600 which grow at right angles to the growth rings. species of oak trees. Fortunately, we rely a watertight wood and This is to ensure it is watertight. Sawing is on only a handful of species. In Europe cheaper than hand splitting. Another costly we have the Q. robur and Q. petraea (Q, strong material for step in the process is the method and length is used as an abbreviation for Quercus) of seasoning of the oak staves. Seasoning In America, barrels are made from the Q. coopers to shape into stabilises the oak so it can be made into alba or white oak. The tree is harvested stronger barrels. During this process moisture when it is between 80 and 180 years old; barrels. levels start at between 50% to 70% and drop like wine, the older the tree, the better the to as little as 15%. The staves can either be barrel. According to the cooperage Seguin climate. It is found in the central area of naturally air-dried or kiln dried. Air dried is the Moreau, you get around four barrels from Limousin and gives more recognisable preferred method in France, but takes a long one trunk measuring 4m long and 80cm robust vanilla notes to the wine. Some say time, approximately 2 to 4 years. Drying them wide. The majority of European oak comes this is closer to American oak. In short, in a kiln takes as little as six weeks and is used from France; but Hungarian, Russian and Q. robur tends to give more tannin whilst in American production. During seasoning Slavonian sourced barrels are also used. Q. petraea produces more aromatics and bitter tannins and eugenol (clove oil) are also French oak is named after the forest or has a tighter grain. Some famous French leached out of the staves. It also increases region where the oak trees are grown, which cooperage or ‘tonnellerie’ include Seguin some flavour compounds including volatile includes Allier, Nièvre (or Nevers), Vosges, Moreau, Francois Frères and Louis Latour. phenols, phenolic aldehydes and furanic Tronçais and Limousin. compounds and cis and trans ß oak lactones. Slow growing trees develop tighter grains Q. robur is a pedunculate oak, whilst Q. 18 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

During their production barrels are browned Uniquely over an open fire. This toasting process Yorke changes the structure of the oak and reduces Peninsula the overall lactones present. The more a barrel is toasted the less oak tannins affect Cellar Door and Function Centre the wine, and more of a toasty character Open 7 days 10am-5pm prevails. The process is akin to a barrel undergoing a Maillard reaction – what makes Maitland, South Australia our morning slice of toast go brown. Barrels Phone (08) 8834 1258 can be purchased with light, medium or heavy toast. Light toast allows the fruit to remain a barleystackswines.com strong component of the wine whilst medium or heavy toasting produces vanilla, coffee and toasty aromas. There are many additional flavours and aromas coming from volatile compounds in oak. American oak has more oak lactones, that gives wine vanillin and coconut aromas and flavours. European oak produces ellagitannins which is a hydrolysed extractable tannin. Ellagitannins do not add to the grape tannins but help protect the wine from oxidation in barrel and allows other aromas to develop. The volatile phenol eugenol, that is not lost in the seasoning process, gives the wine a clove, spice, cinnamon note. Whilst another group of compounds called the norisoprenoids can leave noticeable floral or balsamic aromas. The role that oak plays in a wine cannot be under-estimated and whilst there has been a rise in unwooded wines you simply don’t get that all important aspect of complexity from simple fruit derived bottles. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING DARWIN DELIVERS - TOP END FOOD AND DRINK TREATS I RE-KINDLED my affection for Darwin a set. The decor is eclectic and there’s a pool based mains such as creamy mushroom few years ago and have returned several room and dancing on some nights. A great garlic linguini, to fish and chips and chickpea times since. If I need any further incentive choice for a buzzy nightcap. mango curry, the drinks list offers, wines, to book a trip, I watch Jimmy Shu’s Taste of spirits and beers exclusively from vegan- the Territory on SBS On Demand. The eight- The One Mile Brewing Company became certified businesses. The waterfront setting episode series is a showcase of the NT’s the first local independent brewery to hit supplies a great backdrop for sunset drinks. culinary treats from Darwin’s fresh produce the shelves at 10 of the Territory’s BWS The pink sangria is a popular, easy-drinking markets and multicultural restaurants to stores in June last year. The core range choice on the live music nights. bush tucker in Arnhem Land. People from made the cut - 4:21 Kolsch, RDO, Otto’s more than 50 nationalities live in Darwin and IPA and Pink Lady Cider. The micro- Like all state capitals, Darwin is packed its surrounds and one of the prime ways brewery was founded by Stuart Brown with cafes and restaurants that deliver they rubber-stamp their diversity is through top-class food at reasonable prices. The their food and drink. Other stalwarts of the outstanding contender to save bucks without compromise is Little Miss Korea, One of the best places to confirm that the Darwin dining landscape known locally as LMK. Located near Territory is just as trend-conscious as the Charlie’s in Austin Lane, chef-owner Chung southern states is to drop by for a drink at include Pee Wee’s at the Jae Lee has made the hole-in-the wall Charlie’s of Darwin. Since opening its doors eatery a destination for lovers of Korean early last year as the city’s first dedicated Point, which has clinched charcoal barbecue dishes. The industrial gin bar, owner Rebecca Bullen has taken decor is very inner city and dumplings cost the Chesterfield-filled hideaway to the top. the NT restaurant of as little as a dollar. The adjacent Loading Charlie’s was one of only two Australian Bay bar specialises in gin-based drinks nominees on the Top 20 Bars to Visit in the year award several and Asian twists on classic cocktails such the World 2021, compiled by the Daily as the guava and lychee highball. Telegraph newspaper in the UK. times. Frying Nemo on the marina at Tipperary The tipple to choose is Darwin Gin, and Bardy Bayram in 2012 in Winnelie, a Waters uses the best wild-caught Territory Charlie’s first in-house gin which debuted few minutes’ drive from central Darwin. It’s and Australian fish and seafood. Popular in February. There is a croc on the label and open on Thursday, Fridays and Saturdays “catches” include NT golden snapper, Australian natives such as kakadu plum, for tastings and sales and you can chow mangrove jack, barramundi and jewfish. lemon myrtle and river mint have star roles down on pizza from the resident food truck. Nemo’s has won the title of best fish in the flavours and botanicals. The best and chips in the NT several times and place to sip? Charlie’s year-round rooftop The prestige houses of Cullen Bay sell for consistently makes the finals for the bar with views over Raintree Park. millions, which is probably why the area is national title. For those who crave an home to Darwin’s first all-vegan restaurant, Outback vibe, the burger list includes a Close by is the Babylon Bar in Air Raid Ebb & Flow. In addition to upmarket plant- crocodile burger. Arcade. As the name implies, Darwin’s first retro theme bar is a magnet for the younger Jimmy Shu founded Hanuman in 1992 20 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

and the restaurant remains a must-stop for British transplant, Martin Bouchier, has Perfectly foodlovers visiting Darwin. His Chinese/Sri been lighting up the Darwin dining scene balanced. Lankan heritage speaks loudly on the menu for more than six years with stints at PM Eat and the Asian-inspired decor punches & Drink and Viva La Vida. In September DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, home the message. There’s also a sister last year he opened Phat Mango. The yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. restaurant in Alice Springs if you are driving menu changes constantly and Territorian Our bold service offering is built on south. Moreish favourites include nonya ingredients are given an haute cuisine a full-bodied foundation of vast pork rolls, Singapore chilli prawns, South spin in dishes like crocodile laksa and roo general commercial experience, yet Indian goat curry and jackfruit curry. Save tartare. Other lures that make Phat Mango overlaid with distinctive specialist room for the signature dessert - black rice a must-book are Gunbalanya eye fillet from expertise in a number of key creme brulee - a pandan-infused custard Arnhem Land with kipler mash and bush industries and niche market with black rice, mango creme fraiche and apple and green plum compote, roo osso sectors. sesame meringue. bucco and butter poached cod with radish It’s a winning combination that salad and lemon myrtle beurre blanc. allows every client who opens a Other stalwarts of the Darwin dining “case” to get exactly what they landscape include Pee Wee’s at the Point, If you need a guiding hand, Darwin need. So whatever your business which has clinched the NT restaurant of Gourmet Tours offers three-hour dinner or legal objectives, don’t hesitate the year award several times. Best known tours and Saturday and Sunday lunch tours to contact us. among novelty-seekers for its coconut- featuring many of the above restaurants for At DW Fox Tucker, every crusted crocodile tail, Wharf One Food only $149 per person. client matters. & Wine overlooks the lagoon at Darwin Waterfront and also does a brisk business L14, 100 King William Street in wood-fired tapa dishes. Adelaide SA 5000 p: +61 8 8124 1811 While some of the best steaks in town can be ordered at Char Restaurant. e: [email protected] But there’s nothing casual about the dwfoxtucker.com.au plush, heritage-listed surrounds of the Admiralty House venue. The restaurant was COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES launched by John Kilroy, the restaurateur ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY and businessmen extraordinaire who championed Queensland beef to buyers INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY from all over the world and made Brisbane’s RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES Cha Cha Char a Mecca for steak lovers. The SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS “magic touch” has been transferred to the COMPENSATION Top End and the tomahawk, T-bone, sirlons and eye fillet cuts are second-to-none. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 21 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

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CLAIMING THE LIMELIGHT Out of the shadows and into the light, previous bulk wine producer CW Wines reaches the top shelf when it comes to their award-winning wines. NIGEL HOPKINS SOMETIMES it seems like a wine company most of us have never CW Wines’ ability to produce top quality wine at a bargain price heard of has come from nowhere and suddenly is offering wines was even better illustrated by its own label, The Inventor 2019 that are right up there on the top shelf. Coonawarra merlot, again with five stars and a $15 price tag. That could easily be said of CW Wines, a Coonawarra-based CW Wines’ owners, the Tranter family, had a long history as company – hence the CW in its name – that for years has been growers of potatoes and onions before adding vineyards to their producing premium quality bulk wines for other company’s labels, business with the purchase in 2003 of the Coonawarra Gartner some of them with quite prestigious reputations. winery, which they sold in March last year prior to their purchase of the Stonehaven winery at Padthaway. The deal included acquisition But as proof that you can’t keep all good things hidden under a of the 330ha Old Mundulla Limestone Coast vineyard that will now rock forever, CW Wines is in the process of reinventing itself with support the Stonehaven winery. strategic brand development that has it moving from bulk wine to premium bottled wine under labels it has either recently bought Commissioned and built by Constellation Brands in 1998 the or previously owned but never fully developed. former Hardy’s winery includes 11 million litres of tank storage, a massive 4000sqm temperature-controlled barrel store with capacity “The last 18 months has been extremely busy,” says CW Wines for more than 10,000 barrels, and an architecturally designed cellar CEO Brett Anderson, with a slight sense of understatement. door, restaurant and function facilities. With it came a vineyard now “We’ve sold a winery and four vineyards, purchased a new winery, being replanted with pinot gris and pinot noir to be sold under the purchased another vineyard and two wine brands, and employed Stonehaven label. a number of staff. And it’s still very much a work in progress.” Constellation sold the Stonehaven winery in 2010, and in The most recent of those purchases has been that of Stonehaven, 2013 it was sold on to Chinese-backed Ferngrove Wines, who including a 12,000-tonne winery at Padthaway and 68.5ha of subsequently leased it to Limestone Coast Wines. In a reversal vineyards, which will become the company’s cornerstone business. of what has become more common these days, the Tranter This followed earlier purchases of the respected Coonawarra family has brought it back to Australian ownership from the Reschke brand and the McLaren Vale Ulithorne brand late last Chinese owners, just as they also achieved with their purchase year, which were added to CW Wines’ existing Schoolhouse brand. of Ulithorne, which also most recently had Chinese owners. From selling bulk wines back into the industry, however good Although relatively young to be in charge of such a fast-moving they were, CW Wines is now producing wines that are winning top enterprise, CEO Anderson is well equipped with a degree in marks – such as in this month’s Winestate tastings. The Reschke international business and a financial background that includes 2018 Bull Trader Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon, for example, a substantial stint as finance manager at Penny’s Hill winery. scored five stars and 98 points, as did the Reschke 1998 Empyrean Denise Tranter oversees the business as managing director, while and the Schoolhouse Headmaster, both cab savs from Coonawarra son Jake is in charge of the vineyards and daughter Samantha – the latter priced at a bargain $18. All the current Reschke wines is in charge of administration, making it very much a hands-on are made by senior winemaker Ben Wurst, who has decades of family business. experience in the Coonawarra region. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 23

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The company is preparing to relaunch the Stonehaven range “Stonehaven will become of wines later this year with a new logo and look: “We want to the cornerstone of our breath fresh air into the label,” Anderson says. “Stonehaven will winemaking business, become the cornerstone of our winemaking business, housing housing and producing our and producing our existing portfolio of premium and regional existing portfolio of premium wine brands including Reschke, Ulithorne, Schoolhouse and now and regional wine brands Stonehaven.” including Reschke, Ulithorne, Schoolhouse and now There are plans to reopen the Stonehaven cellar door, which fronts on to the Riddoch Highway, as soon as an appropriate operator Stonehaven.” can be found: “Running a cellar door and restaurant, that’s not our business,” Anderson says, though it’s clearly a major opportunity that would be an important hospitality boost to the region. He says the company’s main focus is to build a series of core brands and capitalise on its ability to over-deliver at a number of price points. Stonehaven in particular will become its most accessible brand priced around $12-$15, underpinned by the Old Mundulla vineyard that is undergoing expansion with new plantings of grenache, pinot noir, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc, with removal of existing merlot vines. The vineyard, originally planted in the late 1990s, also has extensive plantings of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, malbec and mataro. The well-established Reschke range will extend the upper limits, from the $25 Bull Trader up to the Empyrean at around $150, with the recent addition of the very accessible R-Series, priced at around $20. Schoolhouse, The Inventor and Ulithorne fill out the mid-level, each with very distinct identities. “With Stonehaven we’ll be making unpretentious, very accessible wines for families and friends to enjoy,” Anderson says, “wines that also deliver levels of quality well beyond their price points.” And while it might seem tempting, with a 12,000-tonne capacity winery, to seriously bump up production, Anderson says the aim to remain at around 6000 tonnes, as in 2021, but to bump up the quality even a notch or two higher. Has CW Wines growth and expansion now peaked? Hardly likely. “Our goal now is to purchase vineyards as well, not just to buy in grapes,” Anderson says. “And we’re also looking at developing a new Barossa label, most likely as a fourth core brand. “We make very good wine, but a lot of our wines have been sold in bulk for many years. We didn’t have the vehicle to show these wines to the public. Now we do. We have these very authentic wine brands, and the wines we produce under these labels are very good quality, each with a unique story.” The days when CW Wines was content to make anonymous wine, however good the quality, are clearly over. Page 22: Reschke Empyrean Cabernet Sauvignon. Opposite page top to bottom: Ben Wurst checking the grapes, aerial view of Stonehaven winery, Stonehaven barrel storage room, School House Headmaster Caberent Sauvignon and Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. Right: Jake Tranter in the vineyard. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 25

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Sanguine Estate A Recipe for Success CLIVE HARTLEY WHEN you get a winery owner that has small hobby vineyard turned into a much Heathcote’s reputation sits firmly in acute business acumen and a passion for more demanding operation so son Mark the soils of the region. These ancient wine you have a recipe for success. Add took up his parents offer to became the red Cambrian soils are found along two to that the ingredient of an extended family full time vineyard manager in 2000 and the faultlines that are around 500 million for support you have a business model winemaking role in 2004. Their daughter years old. The soils have good water that will endure for multi-generations. That Jodi joined the team in 2002 eventually retention, handy in drought years. The 70 is the case with Sanguine Estate and the taking over the Chief Executive Officer role acres of vines at Sanguine Estate sit in Hunter family. After establishing his own from her father by 2005. The business now the central area of Heathcote, just north successful international business in the includes daughter-in-law Melissa as Chief of the township, and is wedged between 90’s Tony was able to pursue his passion Financial Officer and son-in-law Brett Marsh Mount Ida and She Oak Hill. Deep clay in wine and love of the Heathcote region as advisor to the family business. With five loam filed with decaying Cambrian rock of Victoria. “I always loved Heathcote grandchildren the future seems secured. takes up the bulk of the vineyards but they Shiraz and the wines from Jasper Hill and also have other soil types that provide Seppelts Mount Ida and when a property Whilst Sanguine is a comparatively new blending opportunities. “Wines from became available between these two story, the family do have some important links Cambrian soils display a ripe plum and vineyards I snapped up the opportunity of to the early pioneers of Victorian viticulture. graphite earthiness. However, I get more purchasing it,” Tony recalls. The Hunter’s Tony’s Great Grandfather, Pietro D’Orsa was complexity into wines from our different story is a classic Australian family tale. a Swiss Italian migrant that planted vines in soils. For example, we have vines planted Once Tony and his wife Linda established Maldon in Central Victoria, just under an hours on medium red clay over soapstone. I tend the vineyard in 1996 and increased drive from Sanguine Estate. The family have to get blueberry fruits and more dried herbs plantings over a 5 year period, what was a taken cuttings from some of the vines that from these soils,” comments Mark. have survived to keep the link alive. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 27

Whilst Sanguine is a One of the keys to making fine wine comparatively new is processing the fruit in small batches story, the family do have and keeping the yields low. Yields are up some important links and down depending on the season but to the early pioneers of fluctuate between a lean 1 to 2 tonne per Victorian viticulture. acre. They have recently gone organic which again may affect future yields. Using 16 small open fermenters allows Mark to make plenty of batches and allows experimentation including whole bunch. Some ferments use 30% whole bunch placed either on top or on bottom of the fermenter. “I haven’t worked out if one is better than the other! Bottom gives me structure, complexity and texture, whilst whole bunches on top gives more aromatic fruit.” Blending is where the fun begins, and a table of up to 90 barrel samples are assembled to craft into three wines. All Sanguine reds rely on wild yeast, minimal sulphur levels and the winery is designed to allow for gravity flow, reducing the need to pump wines. 28 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

Sanguine Progeny Shiraz 2019 is their That was after viticulturist Richard Smart They get their name on the row of vines, a most vibrant, punchy fruit-driven wine with identified the Heathcote region was similar aromatic blueberry, black cherry and violet to Rioja with a warm temperature but cool plaque on their barrel and their name on notes. On the palate it has smooth tannins, nights,” explains Mark. well-balanced and has good length. The the label of the final wine. Once bottled wine sees around 10% new oak. Their 2019 Tempranillo is savoury, herbal, rather than fruit driven ‘cherry-cola’ in style they walk away with around 23 dozen Sanguine Inception Shiraz 2019 was and has some nice tannins. In addition, formally called their Estate wine. It also has they have gone with the families Italian of their own private label shiraz that a strong black fruit profile displaying black roots and planted Nebbiolo and lagrein as cherry and blackberry as well as floral well as verdejo and bush vine grenache. typically achieves scores of 94 to 96/100 violets and a touch of earthiness on the It will give them a balanced portfolio to palate, some firm but ripe tannins, giving attract new customers and avoid having from wine judges. the wine structure and savoury oak notes ‘all their eggs in one basket’. as well as licorice, supporting the core of Page 26: Scenic Sanguine Vineyard. black fruit. The finish is long. Matured in Looking after your customers is Opposite page top to bottom: Wine tasting at French oak (30% new), Mark has dropped paramount at Sanguine and so they Sanguine Estate, cellar door, Sanguine Inception the toasting levels of barrels from heavy have developed a couple of unique to medium and calls upon a number experiences for their growing wine club Shiraz and Tony Hunter in the vineyard. of cooperages, although he does like members. Besides the wine club dinners Vicard at the moment. They use infra-red and their Music Festival in October Top: The Hunter family at Sanguine Estate. technology to select staves on their tannin they have an annual Wine Club Shiraz Above: Mark Hunter working in the winery. potential and provide a more scientific blending session. Here members get approach to barrel manufacturing. to blend a wine from 4 different wine barrel samples (a whole bunch, a shiraz The Sanguine D’Orsa Reserve Shiraz viognier, a new oak and a traditional 2018 has just been released and sees Cambrian Heathcote wine). Put into up to 70% new oak and is a selection teams it is a competition on who can of the best barrels. The nose displays make the best blend. The winning teams opulent vanilla, cedar oak, blackberry and blend is then sent into production of blueberries. Built to age the wine is full around 100 cases and all participants get bodied, rich, intense and powerful wine their name on the back label and receive with dry savoury tannins and a long finish. six bottles of the wine. Looking to the future, and the possible At the pinnacle is their Lifestyle Club effects of climate change; as well as where members can adopt a row of vines consumer trends, Mark has extended the and can choose to be fully involved with plantings beyond shiraz. picking and fermenting, then choosing the quality of barrel to mature their wine. “We planted tempranillo 15 years ago. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 29

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A Dedicated Experience Tenafeate Creek’s singular focus on a successful future CHARLES GENT FOR a name that evokes singularity, it’s hard to beat One Tree Hill. Michael, whose initial involvement in the vineyard morphed into Founded in the 1850s, One Tree Hill is a small town with a a TAFE diploma in food and wine, went on to study oenology at the Waite campus of Adelaide University. He graduated in 2012 population of just over 1000 set in a landscape of paddocks, before heading to Europe to work vintages in Italy and France, rolling hills and gums just beyond the edge of Adelaide’s north- returning home to take over the winemaking in 2014. eastern suburban sprawl. The locale is also home to a singular winery, Tenafeate Creek Wines (TCW). The Tenafeate estate-grown red grapes are supplemented with fruit from local independent growers, while for their whites, A five-minute drive north of One Tree Hill and 35 kilometres which include a pinot gris, fiano, vermentino and a sauvignon from the Adelaide GPO, Tenafeate Creek is not situated in any blanc, the Costas follow the example of the Barossa Valley and recognised wine region, although it sits at the junction of no less McLaren Vale by drawing on vineyards in higher, cooler areas in than three: away to the west is the Angas Plains district of the the Adelaide Hills, Eden Valley and Pewsey Vale. Adelaide Plains GI; a few kilometres to the east is the northern end of the Adelaide Hills region; to the north-east is the town of While the character of One Tree Hill fruit has similarities to Lyndoch, gateway to the southern end of the Barossa Valley. the Barossa, Michael Costa says the altitude of around 300 metres above sea level helps to give the One Tree Hill fruit its Production of around 3,000 cases puts Tenafeate Creek in the own distinctive character. The elevation gives rise to breezes category of a boutique winery, but the slightly prissy overtones and cool night-time temperatures, which help to create good of that term don’t seem relevant to the can-do attitude of the levels of natural acidity in the grapes. Costa family, who have owned and run the winery for close to 20 years. While winegrowing had its origins as a hobby for Larry Shiraz and cabernet are the backbone varieties, but Tenafeate Costa, a one-time owner-operator of a string of northern suburbs also makes popular Italian varietals in the form of sangiovese hairdressing salons, the winery became a more serious enterprise and montepulciano. when macular degeneration began to affect his eyesight in the late 1990s. An interest in grape-growing did have some precedent Alternative varietals nebbiolo and petit verdot have featured on in the family: a generation earlier, Larry’s father had owned a the list in the past, but are no longer made because of problems vineyard in the Barossa. The one-hectare home vineyard was with supply. Being harder to sell, growers tend to regraft to more put in by Larry and his son Michael in 2000, and planted out to popular varieties, Costa says. Durif, however, is going strong. shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, mataro and grenache. Tenafeate became a commercial entity in 2002, and the cellar door and “I don’t shy away from the variety – I pick it on tannin ripeness, winery were built in 2005. so it’s really big and rich and leathery, and goes down well with people who like those big, ballsy styles. It’s like a shiraz on steroids,” Costa says. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 31

“Production of around 3,000 cases puts Tenafeate Creek in the category of a boutique winery, but the slightly prissy overtones of that term don’t seem relevant to the can-do attitude of the Costa family, who have owned and run the winery for close to 20 years.” As one might expect, the major focus is on shiraz, and Tenafeate has won a number of awards for the variety, notably in Winestate’s Shiraz Challenge. The winery’s entry level wine is the TCW Basket Pressed Shiraz, which is a blend of fruit from four different One Tree Hill vineyards. Costa says the Yattalunga Shiraz is “a more structured shiraz” made from estate fruit, while the Vincenzo, named after Michael’s grandfather, is a blend of shiraz with cabernet sauvignon. A preservative-free shiraz, Purple Haze, is just about to be released for the first time. In suitable, exceptional years, Costa also makes a super-premium, single-vineyard shiraz, The Judgement. The most recent vintage is the 2016; only four have been made. Costa says the location of One Tree Hill between the Hills and the Barossa offers the best of both worlds for the winemaker. “The wines have a great depth of flavour to them, a lot of power and flavour and energy to them, a lot of that black fruit, but they’ve also got that spice, which is a real hallmark of One Tree Hill due to those cool gully breezes. The wines have a generosity to them but they have a spicy element and a lovely structure as well, thanks to the natural acidity.” With an almost exclusive emphasis on cellar door and restaurant sales, Tenafeate has been unaffected by the recent fallout with China. And while always open to new ideas, the Costas’ plans for the future are largely “steady as she goes” explains Michael. 32 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

Sunday lunch at Tenafeate Creek Wines on July 18 had an unexpected and unwanted visitor in the form of Covid-19. The winery was one of the sites at the vortex of South Australia’s latest outbreak, as several cases of the virus emerged among the 125 lunch guests. Michael Costa, who fortunately wasn’t at work on the 18th, said the following days “were a blur”, as he assisted police and health authorities in the track-and-trace exercise and dealt with the media enquiries. Although the publicity was hardly ideal and most of his staff had to quarantine, Costa was characteristically stoic: “It is what it is,” he said. “We had nothing to hide and we were happy to help out where we could.” On the up-side, he said, TCW has received strong public support in the form of social media messages and a well-deserved surge in on-line sales. “Dad’s 67 now, but he still helps out in the cellar, shovelling ferments, and we’re both there on the weekends behind the bar.” It was Larry who hatched the idea of making pizzas and offering lunches to cellar door visitors back in 2005. It was at a time well before the concept of cellar door food was widespread, and Michael, for one, was a little sceptical, but was rapidly won over. “It’s a great auxiliary to the business, and we’re very busy on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays,” he says. “Everyone wants that experience; they want to meet the winemaker and the owner. And that’s what we do on the weekends, pouring the wines and chatting. A lot of people support us, which is fantastic. “We do our own thing and we make wines we like drinking ourselves.” That sounds like a good business model to me. Page 30 left to right top to bottom: Michael Costa blending wine, Michael Costa sampling some wine, Michael and Larry Costa in the winery and a few award winning wines. Opposite page top to bottom: Tenafeate Creek shiraz, Michael Costa in the winery and Michael Costa sampling some wine from the barrel. This page: Tenafeate Creek new cellar door and a few award winning wines. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 33

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AIMING HIGH Newcomer Monteperle Wines is already achieving great things. NIGEL HOPKINS THESE days it’s not uncommon for an overseas investor to buy an loyal customers in China, and built a high degree of trust with the Australian winery, its existing brands and possibly vineyards, and Australian wine companies with whom they dealt, who naturally with any luck pour in a bit more money to develop all of the above. welcomed the safe export path that Vivian provided. That’s a pretty straightforward process. What’s less common, and Perhaps almost inevitably the question was eventually asked: it’s true of newcomer Monteperle Wines in the Barossa Valley, is to why aren’t you making your own wine? Why not start a winery of start from scratch: buy a vineyard, find a winemaker, create a brand your own? Vivian and her partners decided to do just that, but and enter the market as an unknown quantity. What Monteperle they opted to take the harder road of starting just with a vineyard. then did to make it even more challenging was to aim at the top, One of their export clients was the Barossa family-owned Sieber with wines priced from $65 to $185. Wines, whose winemaker, the very experienced Tony Carapetis, providing advice. Monteperle Wines is owned by Jia Yuan Hua Wines based in Shenzhen, China, whose key investor is a businessman with In 2017 Jia Yuan Hua Wines bought the 24.3ha Max’s Vineyard extensive business interests, including international sea freight. He, in Gods Hill Road, Lyndoch. No winery, just a large shed, and his colleagues and friends are all passionate about Australian wine. despite being planted as recently as 2001, had a reputation for growing top grade fruit, including shiraz from its 2.6ha Block 6 that Among those colleagues are Vivian Zhang and her husband on occasion was bought by Treasury Wine Estates for potential Louis, both with business interests in China. They, too, became inclusion in Penfolds Grange. passionate lovers of Australian wine and when they came to Australia in 2006 – basically as part of their plan to “see the Carapetis, who still makes Sieber wines under contract, moved world” as China opened up to international travel – Vivian saw an across to Monteperle as chief winemaker and has been pivotal in opportunity to start a business exporting Australian wine to China, developing the brand since its first vintage with a GSM released using their existing distribution and sales networks. in 2018. Since then there have been four reserve wines – shiraz, mataro, grenache and cabernet sauvignon – that were released Over the next decade or so several things happened: they towards the end of 2019. expanded their distribution network, they developed a clientele of September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 35

“I just saw there was an As a winemaker, Carapetis was no stranger to start-ups. opportunity to do something Having trained at Roseworthy, his first definitive experience really interesting,” Carapetis was at Tahbilk Wines in Victoria followed by 18 months with Tim Knappstein and Steve Pannel at Knappstein Wines in the says. “It was a ground-up Clare Valley, a brief return to Tahbilk then to Western Australia operation and I thought I to set up Palandri Wines in 2000, a major challenge. could help them mould it to something special, to make Five years later he moved to Voyager Wines as winemaker for a year before returning to South Australia to set up production their vision a reality.” for the family-owned Virgara Winery at Angle Vale, on the Adelaide Plains. He stayed there until 2010 until leaving to 36 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021 continue contract winemaking for a number of clients, including Sieber Wines through whom he met Vivian Zhang. “I just saw there was an opportunity to do something really interesting,” Carapetis says. “It was a ground-up operation and I thought I could help them mould it to something special, to make their vision a reality.” He advised them to put all their resources into Max’s Vineyard, which they’d bought for $3 million, and rather than spend a lot of money building a winery, to let him go on using Moppa Vineyards winery at Nuriootpa, where he once worked and had a good relationship. As a boutique winery, Monteperle has capped its output to

5000 cases, with a yield in 2021 of just over 100 tonnes from all that hard to make really good wine from it. It has the right Max’s Vineyard, whose plantings include 9.89ha of shiraz, 3.1ha clones, the right soil. To make good wine you don’t have to do grenache, 1.66ha mataro and 1.2ha of cabernet sauvignon. crazy things, so there’s nothing amazing about what we do. You just need really good grapes.” Vivian Zhang has taken on the role of general manager while hospitality professional Ching Ling, who fell in love He admits he was a little surprised by the price points that were with wine whilst training at a Swiss hotel school, is sales chosen, “but they were never part of the original plan. They just director, underpinned by his extensive experience in Adelaide evolved as we realised how good the wine was.” restaurants, including a decade with the Sparr Group, Magill Estate restaurant and the Blanco Catering Group. What has impressed Carapetis the most, however, is the passion and commitment of Monteperle’s owners: “The good thing is there’s Ching says their initial plan was for half of their production never really any budget,” he says. “If you say this is what we need to go to China, which was achieved with the 2019 vintage, to be the best, they’ll do that. And the best thing about them is but now the focus must be almost entirely on the Australian their commitment. Everything is a long-term proposition for them. domestic market – and those top prices will set a challenge for the national distributor they’re still to appoint. “They’re engaged but not intrusive, they just let me get on with what I have to do. The commitment’s there, the engagement’s “But we have found that this vineyard can produce wines at this there, the money’s there – and all the money goes back into the level – and the show results are starting to prove that,” Ching says, local community. And we’re delivering the results.” pointing to a Gold medal for the 2018 Reserve Shiraz at the last Royal Adelaide Wine Show and a Gold medal for the same wine Page 34: Max’s vineyard scenic aerial view and a selection of Monteperle wines. in Decanter’s 2021 World Wine Awards. That shiraz and the 2018 Opposite page left to right top to bottom: Kangaroo in the vineyard, sunrise in the GSM both scored 4½ stars and 96 points from Winestate judges. vineyard, Tony Carapetis in the barrel room, harvest in the vineyard. This page left to right top to bottom: Harvest in the vineyard, grapes and aerial view “It’s always had a reputation as an exceptionally good of vineyard. vineyard,” Carapetis adds. “It’s just a beautiful site, so it’s not September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 37

BEST OF A Beautiful Bunch PETER SIMIC rated five and four-and-a-half star wines 95 South Australia and the 2016 Henschke awarded. Well done. Hill of Grace Barossa Valley. As one of the AS YOU know this year continues to judges commented, “I have not seen a have its challenges with Covid rearing its Having said that I am pleased to report better flight of shiraz and syrah wines with a ugly head across the board, impacting that we still managed to judge 372 shiraz lovely level of elegance and concentration.” on individuals and businesses alike. We and syrah wines across a number of price were not immune either as we noticed a categories, from the cheap and cheerful From the 372 wines judged only 244 were drop in wine submission entries from NSW ‘Under $15 category’ to the stratospheric awarded, again proving the point that “if and Victoria as shut downs and freight ‘$200+ category’. In the latter flight we had you get an award from Winestate you have delays caused havoc across the board. possibly the highest quality strike rate we earned it.” From this a total of 37 wines We noticed this in particular for our Shiraz have seen with superb wines from Paul received five stars, 37 four-and-a-half stars, Challenge where some of our regulars were Jaboulet Aine and their 2018 La Chapelle 56 four stars, 45 three-and-a-half stars and sorely missed. However, the good news is Hermitage; the E. Guigal 2016 La Landonne 69 three stars. We have also allocated that those that did enter did very well with Cote Rotie; the 2016 Penfolds Grange Bin points to these results and you can check a couple of class winners and multiple high these out in the tasting review results. THE JUDGES (left to right): Matt O’Leary, Duane Coates MW, Leigh Francis, Adam Carnaby, Adam Clay, Susan Mickan, Shane Harris and Alex MacClelland. 38 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

How it works: We judge according to the international pointy end there is the benefit of having 20 point system which translates into a star seriously expensive new oak, a selection Three panels of three judges evaluated the rating for each wine. (It also equals the of more barrels to choose from and wines blind over three days. Each single bronze, silver and gold system used by expert winemakers who have the time wine was presented to the judges in rows of many shows – and recently we have added and concentration of attention to detail to anonymous glasses. These were arranged the 100 point system to the portfolio). produce some truly exquisite wines. by vintage within various price categories. This was the only information the judges The Winners: received. Following this each wine was scored independently by each judge and It is true to say that no matter what your checked by Winestate Editor/Publisher purse there is a wine or more that will Peter Simic. Winestate uses its own “majority delight you across each price category rules” system, where the two closest scores whether it be your house wine or for are used and the third is eliminated. that special occasion. Of course at the September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 39

Under $15 $45 - $50 $100 - $200 The value category. A small group of A real mixed bag said the judges, with Amazing consistency here from 30 wines mixed results with one standout wine, lots of gaps between the good wines. judged and none rejected. Again in these the Tudor 2019 Central Victoria Shiraz. Some wineries were over extracting pricier flights vintage is no longer a the fruit to create more powerful wines, concern and winemaking skill is evident. $15 - $20 but missing the point. Choose carefully. Winner here was the Giant Squid Ink Fresh is best. A great value category Winner here was the well-crafted Wolf Estate Grown Reserve Single Vineyard with 2019 wines the best. Younger is Blass 2019 Grey Label McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz. generally better here. Winner is Taylors Shiraz. They have the advantage of Special Release 2018 Clare Valley Shiraz. having lots of barrels to choose from $200+ A great House wine. and winemakers who know what they With prices ranging from $200 to $1,200 are doing. the anticipation was great and the result $20 - $25 delivered. This year I think we can say of A mixed bag where we pick out the wheat $50 - $60 the $100 -$200 and Over $200 categories from the chaff. The Knappstein 2019 Another strong class with the 19’s offering “if you paid for it you got it!” In general Clare Valley Shiraz was an eye opener more consistency and the older wines these were fabulous wines of great and a cut above the rest. mixed. The best was Knappstein 2019 character and consistency. The Mayors Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz. $25 - $30 Great to see this famous name being “I have not seen a better flight of shiraz The 2020’s here were yet to settle down revived to its former glory. and syrah wines with a lovely level of so concentrate on the 18’s and 19’s that elegance and concentration,” said performed well and are well priced. $60 - $70 one judge. Standout in this line up of Winner is the Fox Creek 2018 JSM “Excellent solid performers with few standouts was the Paul Jaboulet Aine Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet duds,” said the judges. Here we finally 2018 La Chapelle Hermitage. Safe to say Franc. Yes it is a blend but it is still see great performers across all vintages that this was also the Best Wine of Show. predominantly shiraz. (even going back to 2013). Perennial performer was the Reilly’s 2016 Old Vine Our thanks must go to the great work $30 - $35 Stolen Block Shiraz. done by our expert judges, Shane A step up for the few extra bucks with a Harris, Wines by Geoff Hardy; Susan few more high flyers. Best here was the $70 - $80 Mickan, Wine Consultant; Adam Clay, Gomersal Reserve 2016 Barossa Shiraz. More of the same but fortunately more Pirathon; Adam Carnaby, Wicks Estate; Great to see a wine built to age which excellent wines of the same quality. Alex MacClelland, Bethany Wines; Leigh doesn’t seem to be the current trend. Thorn-Clarke 2018 Barossa Valley Shiraz Francis, AWRI; Duane Coates MW, Duane proved tops here. Coates Wines; and Matt O’Leary, Savitas $35 - $40 wines. Ok, not much in it price wise but this small $80 - $100 group did seem to have a touch more fruit Get out the bank loan here. Great Another year, another superb line up weight said the judges. But most of the consistency as you would expect with of wines that we have no hesitation in older wines here seen their best days. no pretenders. A relative newcomer, suggesting that you seek out and try. They picked the Zontes Footstep 2020 Sussex Squire Wines JRS HACKETT Nature’s Crux Fleurieu Shiraz as the best, Barrel Selection Clare Valley Shiraz took a surprise for a 2020 wine at this price. the honours for best in flight. Another win for Clare. 40 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

ALPINE VALLEYS HUNTER VALLEY MARGARET RIVER SingleVineyard Small BatchWines Available online All wines available in our online store @ goldmanwines.com.au [email protected] @goldmanwines

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS THE STATS Under $15 $15-$20 $20-$25 that count Tudor Central Victoria Taylors Special Release Knappstein NUMBER TASTED: 372 Shiraz 2019 Clare Shiraz 2019 Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 HHHH1/2 $15 NUMBER AWARDED: 244 HHHH $12.99 HHHHH $22 % awarded: 66% NUMBER OF FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 37 % awarded: 10% NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 37 % awarded: 10% NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 56 % awarded: 15% NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 45 % awarded: 12% NUMBER OF THREE STARS (Bronze Award): 69 % awarded: 19% WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ $45-$50 $50-$60 $60-$70 CHALLENGE XVI STARTS PAGE 50. Wolf Blass Grey Label Knappstein The Mayors Reillys ‘Old Vine’ McLaren Vale Vineyard Clare Valley Stolen Block Clare Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2019 Valley Shiraz 2016 HHHH1/2 $45 HHHHH $53 HHHHH $65 42 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

$25-$30 $30-$35 $35-$40 $40-$45 Fox Creek JSM McLaren Gomersal Reserve Zonte’s Footstep Sanguine Estate Vale Shiraz Cabernet Barossa Valley Nature’s Crux Fleurieu Inception Heathcote Cabernet Franc 2018 Shiraz 2016 HHHHH $29 HHHHH $30 Shiraz 2020 Shiraz 2019 HHHHH $35 HHHHH $40 $70-$80 $80-$10 0 $10 0-$20 0 $200+ Thorn-Clarke Sussex Squire Wines McLaren Vale III Paul Jaboulet Aine La William Randell JRS HACKETT Barrel Associates Giant Squid Chapelle Hermitage Barossa Shiraz 2018 Selection Clare Valley France Syrah 2018 HHHHH $70 Ink (Estate Grown/ Shiraz 2018 Reserve/Single Vineyard) HHHHH $820 HHHHH $90 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 HHHHH $180 September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 43

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS SOME wineries add on a food component Jamie Wall and sous of which is smaller, much more private and almost as an afterthought. After all, it keeps chef Charanjit ‘Sunny’ contains treasures that make it possible to people in place for longer if they have a Chawla worked at pair a $24 chicken schnitzel with a bottle of plate of food in front of them, even if it’s just Appellation under the 2018 Dom de Comte Liger-Belair at $13,100 a regional platter. Others, and Calabria highly regarded chef should such a whim overcome you. Wines in the Barossa is one of them, take Mark McNamara, and their food much more seriously, to the extent his influence shines In all, the Crafers has access to around that its restaurant is just as much a reason through in the strong 10,000 bottles under 2500 labels, curated for a visit as its wines. regional focus of their dishes. Wall buys by sommelier Kieran Noell. In fact, having nearly all of his produce from growers he a dedicated sommelier has become a mark Perhaps that’s to be expected, given the personally knows, straight from the farm. of all the pubs in this group, which clearly winery’s Italian origins more than 75 years takes its wine offering seriously but without ago at Griffith in the Riverina, where it is There’s a vast open deck with one of pretension. There’s plenty to be found at $50 still based. Its owner Bill Calabria began the best restaurant views in the Barossa, or less – and the beer list, which includes his Barossa expansion in 2010 with the where the emphasis is on shared dishes, those from the Uraidla Hotel’s own brewery, purchase of the original Hahn vineyard, decorative platters such as a baked is possibly the best in South Australia with which includes 12 rows of vines planted parmesan custard with roasted Jerusalem 16 craft beers on tap and nearly 60 more in in 1914. artichokes and caramelised walnuts, or beef can or bottle. carpaccio with parsnip crisps, shavings of By now dedicated to reviving old shiraz watermelon radish and a sprinkle of greens. The Crafers food menu has always vineyards in the Barossa, he then bought had a strong French bias, which is two more – with a cellar door tasting room The braised, pulled Hutton Vale lamb with continued most capably under current and restaurant, the Harvest Kitchen, beetroot labne, yellow beetroot chips and head chef Jamie Laing, who previously overlooking the largest of them with elevated nasturtium leaves is packed with flavour, ran the kitchen at popular Hills restaurant views right across the valley. while the charred squid and octopus with Maximillian’s. There are very well-prepared Romesco sauce and crunchy leek ribbons pub classics, including Le Burger with Just as Bill Calabria has taken his wines is as pretty a dish as you’ll ever see. This a Waygu beef patty, and excellent seriously (even though, famously, he’s a is sophisticated but very approachable (sustainable) fish and chips. teetotaller), made by celebrated winemaker and authentic cooking, and it’s easy to see Emma Norbiato, so too he has pulled no why the “feed me” menu alternative is its But given the rarity of competently cooked punches in making sure Harvest Kitchen’s most popular option. Harvest Kitchen, 284 French fare in any pub it’s hard to ignore the food offering matches the quality of his wine. Magnolia Road, Vine Vale. Open for lunch chopped, richly-flavoured steak tartare or daily, dinner Saturday. Phone 0428 690 888. baked Camembert basted with honey and The restaurant is owned and run by a chilli oil, and you might then be tempted team who first came together 10 years It’s around seven years since the Crafers by a classic steak frites or special boeuf, ago at the Appellation, the award-winning Hotel was given a new lease on life sliced rare scotch fillet with caramelised restaurant at The Louise at Marananga, when investors Julie and Ed Peter, and shallots and a bordelaise sauce. on the other side of the Valley. Head chef hoteliers Brett and Sarah Matthews bought the historic Adelaide Hills pub that The real star of the show however, to be dates from 1839. consumed with the best bottle of burgundy you can afford, is the duo de canard – a It also marked the start of what has confit duck leg with crunchy croquette become a substantial hotel, restaurant and filled with shredded duck, orange zest, winery empire that now includes two other dates, dried cherries rehydrated in cognac Hills pubs, the Uraidla Hotel and Stanley and chicken liver parfait, sitting on swede Bridge Tavern, but it’s the Crafers that puree, kale and poached rhubarb. It’s a remains the jewel in the crown, having been fabulous dish that’s packed with flavour. named the Australian Hotels Association’s Crafers Hotel, 8 Main Street, Crafers. Open best hotel in Australia in 2018 as well as for breakfast weekends, lunch and dinner having the best pub wine list – thanks to its daily. Phone (08) 8339 2050. access to Ed Peter’s very substantial private cellar, in much the same way that Dunkeld’s Top right: Harvest Kitchen squid and octopus. Royal Mail Hotel is supported by lawyer Bottom left: Duck from Crafers. Allan Myers famed cellar. Beyond the front bar, comfy leather chairs and open fire, the Crafers opens out into two dining rooms, the larger of which has a lofty conservatory feel and overlooks both kitchen and two wine rooms, the second 44 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN MELBOURNE is managing well the ‘Covid- relative of a friend,” For dessert there may be the torta normal’ world in which we all exist. While says DJ, “but it must sabbiosa; a soft sponge-like cake that the CBD slowly creeps back to a new way be an authentic originates from Lodi in northern Italy, of operating - think gentle hum rather than recipe, we don’t take Vignali’s birthplace. It’s a delicate, its former chaotic buzz - dining rooms shortcuts.” buttery and light citrus cake served with across our fair city are full, Melbourne a brandy-splashed mascarpone custard. diners are staying true to their reputation The room is a as lovers of good food, great wine and new vibrant rush of rich Drinks are a nice mix of classic and venues and lovely stories are emerging pinks and gold, contemporary with Italian and Australian from our very long lockdown in 2020. with comfortable banquette seating and wines, and cocktails include a riff on traditional Parchinkari artwork. the classic Negroni as well as a yuzu- After 35 years in Chinatown, Gaylord A succinct wine list is designed around flavoured Highball. Indian restaurant has moved location to aromatic whites and mostly light reds Melbourne’s Grand Hotel on Spencer Street from Australia and New Zealand with a Al Dente Enoteca; 161 Nicholson with new owners and a fresh commitment to handful from Europe, to match the layers Street Carlton 3053 - no phone - www. serving authentic Indian cuisine. of spice and textures. aldenteenoteca.com The menu includes dishes such as Business partners and best friends, Dungar Chicken, Goat Nihari as well the If you’re in Melbourne’s inner-north and Dharminder Singh (aka DJ) and Raj perennially popular, homemade Samosa, are looking for an easy, delicious lunch Singh took over the current business Butter Chicken and Lamb Biryani. All then take away from The Fishmonger’s in January 2020 determined to bring breads are made in-house without Son on Nicholson Street in Carlton North. authentic, regionally focused Indian food egg and the team pride themselves to Melbourne diners, although, like the rest on eschewing cliché and nostalgia to For the last three years, the shop has of us, they had no idea what lay ahead in bring Melbourne a more evolved and quietly been servicing the neighbourhood 2020 in terms of COVID19. fresh perspective on authentic Indian with their top quality and fresh seafood cuisine. Gaylord Indian; 33 Spencer St, alongside an impressive range of They’ve resettled into 2021 and have reset Docklands. Phone (03) 9620 1286. speciality deli items. Gaylord in a Covid-safe way with a new International visa-holder and Italian- menu and wine list. born chef Andrea Vignali was stood Now, as they head into the new phase down from his job at Melbourne institution of their business, husband-and-wife duo The menu embraces all of India and Grossi Florentino, due to the national Anthony Yotis and Laura di Florio Yotis its diverse flavours. Raj and DJ insist on lockdown in 2020. have big plans for their seafood shop. traditional recipes. “If we don’t know a Not long after, Vignali launched his dish well from a particular region, we find own pasta-delivery service called Al They are now offering a rotation of someone from that region who can teach us. Dente from his apartment kitchen – and delicious freshly made fish sandwiches, Sometimes it’s the mother, grandmother or it quickly became one of Melbourne’s including prawn rolls with a soy and aunty of someone who works with us, or the takeaway favourites. mustard mayonnaise, shallots and gem Al Dente’s success was established lettuce; sashimi salmon sandwiches in early 2021 when Vignali and his topped with smoked salmon and sashimi housemate Davide Bonadiman (also tuna sandwiches topped with hot smoked a former Florentino chef), opened Al tuna sourced from the Melbourne Pantry Dente Enoteca: a restaurant, wine bar and Port Lincoln Smokehouse. Available and shop. At Al Dente, from Tuesday through to Saturday, they the menu changes weekly are only $12 a pop. (except for the spanner crab ravioli - a lockdown As well as the sandwiches, every favourite – which remains Thursday and Friday, The Fishmonger’s a mainstay). Son have delicious nigiri and sashimi Aside from pasta, other boxes for takeaway expertly prepared dishes have included a by their in-house sashimi chef Shiro. You marbled Wagyu flank with have to be quick though, as the packs charred friggitelli and are normally sold out by lunchtime as black garlic, and a playful customers snap them up. nod to surf’n turf: grilled scallops topped with burnt With premium seafood, a selection of the onion and crisp pancetta. best deli items and a team of friendly and knowledgeable staff, The Fishmonger’s Son will continue to cement itself as a one stop shop for not only locals but foodies and seafood lovers across the city. The Fishmonger’s Son; 703 Nicholson St, Carlton North. Phone 0452 166 552. Top left: The Fishmonger’s Son. Bottom left: Food from Gaylord Indian. September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 45

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING THERE’S beeen a swathe of modern Greek so does the serving of the lamb kleftiko. Lamb and scallop agua chile - a spicy ceviche restaurant openings in Sydney over the shoulder cooked in clay and paper with feta with cucumber, karkalla (the native Aussie past few months. Perama, the longtime and herbs, one of the chefs brought the dish succulent known as pigface), davidson plum Inner-West favourite helmed by noted chef to our table and broke open the clay shell to and dashi. David Tsirekas, returned to its original allow the fragrant juices to do their work on Petersham location and M.I.M by 1821 arousing the tastebuds. Top of the main choices is wagyu birria - took up the spot vacated by Jamie’s Italian slow-cooked Sinaloa-style wagyu brisket. in Pitt Street. But the big fish, so to speak, As fans of Rick Stein’s Mediterranean Vegetarians shouldn’t go past the black al was the re-opening of Alpha restaurant in journeys on TV, where sea urchins pop up pastor cauliflower with a Vegemite guajillo the CBD following its 15-month closure for regularly during his wanderings, we ordered black al pastor glaze, hommus and mustard a multi-million-dollar revamp. the sea urchin taramasalata. Once regarded greens. There are three desserts and, as as a pest in Australia, the so-called truffle of chocolate originated in Mexico, it’s hard not The chef is the redoubtable Peter Conistis, the sea really surged in popularity during to pick the chocolate oaxagueno - spiced widely hailed as the pioneer of contemporary the 2020 Covid lockdowns. Alpha’s version chocolate ganache, quandong, star anise, Greek cuisine in Sydney through his starring is a total taste sensation for plumpness and milk crumble and almond. Need another roles at Cosmos, Eleni’s and Omega. The sweetness and not to be missed. reason to drop by? Sinaloa offers more than stunning new fitout by Paul Papadopoulos 100 tequilas, mezcals and agave spirits, of DS17 (Nour, Mama Mulan) truly matches Other standouts on the menu include Mexican beers and wines. Conistis’ talent. A fusion of modern and feta-brined chicken with tourlou tourlou, spit- heritage styling, daylight floods in to highlight roasted lamb and the mezze plate. Cocktails Sinaloa, 37 Bay Street, Double Bay; visit the crisply white walls, polished American oak also feature strongly. A friend who had sinaloasydney.com.au. and Thanet chairs. Original features such as dropped by the week before recommended exposed brick, vaulted ceilings and columns the Aphrodite Sour cocktail, a moreish blend Marrickville Metro has seen the surrounding play well against the new open kitchen, marble of oak-aged Tsipouro, a relatively new take area undergo major gentrification over the bar and featured wine wall. Chic is the word on the traditional Greek spirit distilled from past 15 years. The demographic trend really from the minute you walk in the door. pomace, Aperol, lemon juice, cider and shows in the $140 million new dining precinct strawberry shrub. adjoining the venerable shopping centre. The The capacity has been reduced from 200 walkway joining the old and new buildings has to 150, but many regulars of Alpha’s eight- One dessert and two spoons were all we had a neon sign - Get the Fork in Here - and the year first iteration were out in force only a room for, so we selected the galaktoboureko. invitation is totally on the money. couple of weeks after reopening. Head chef A modern twist on the much-loved Greek James Roberts (China Doll, Est) is a superbly custard pie, it was a deconstructed version Behind the facade of the former Smidmore credentialed wingman for Conistis and aromas with filo, coffee-infused creme and ice-cream. Street warehouse, 12 new restaurants with waft over diners from the kitchen’s charcoal- The updated version said it all about Alpha. It’s diverse and edgy fitouts are drawing fuelled Jasper oven. The noise level has been sophisticated and smart but with a lot of heart, foodies to the latest Inner West food hub in tamped down by new soundproofing in the from the service to the generous portions that droves. For starters there’s the Vietnamese- ceiling, but nothing can dampen the bonhomie a Greek yiayia would approve of. inspired diner and bar, The Rice Pantry, of Alpha’s clientele. When we arrived, we whose head chef is Bryan Zhu, the former noticed earlier diners were leaving with brown Alpha, 238 Castlereagh Street, Sydney; go MasterChef contestant. paper carry bags. “We’re Greek”, explained to www.238castlereagh.com.au. general manager Helena Karis, “we don’t The Grumpy Italian, with popular venues let people go hungry and they can take any Double Bay has again become a hotspot in Chiswick and Strathfield, has opened a leftovers home”. for new restaurant openings with the recent third outlet in Marrickville. Karl’s Charcoal unveiling of Margaret, Neil Perry’s latest Chicken, a spin-off of the popular Hawa Over 90 per cent of the menu listings are venue. Another new kid on the block is Charcoal Chicken, is also firing on all cylinders. new. We started with bone marrow served Sinaloa, a relaxed yet suave restaurant and As is Firestone, famed for its premium wagyu in the bone and topped with tabouli and a bar with colourful tiles, fountains and an inviting steaks. While Japanese food lovers have the vegetarian version of keftedes, the traditional hacienda courtyard. Named after the Mexican choice of Motto Motto Japanese Kitchen Greek meatballs. Forty per cent of the wine list coastal region famed for its seafood, the chef and Izakaya Tori. If you closed your eyes, is made up of Greek wines and many diners is Mexico City-born, Axell Torres, who worked you would think you were in a smaller version were going with the full Mediterranean flow. at Noma in Copenhagen and MereToro, the of Chelsea Market in New York minus the upscale Mexico City eatery in the city’s trendy adjoining television production facility. Over his 25 year-plus career, Conistis Colonia Condesa neighbourhood, which has created signature dishes that his fans made the top 50 restaurants in South America Marrickville Metro, 20 Smidmore Street, just won’t let him stray from - spanakopita list in 2014 and 2015. Marrickville; visit marrickvillemetro.com.au. (spinach and feta pie), slow-roasted lamb and scallop moussaka. I chose Just as Peter Conistis likes to emphasise Top right: Dessert from Alpha restaurant. the spanakopita because it is the best in Greek heritage with an updated approach Sydney for taste and presentation and took and new techniques, so does Torres who a large chunk home to enjoy the next day. also adds Asian and Australian ingredients to Mexican favourites. If the open kitchen adds a touch of theatre, The starters list features stracciatella and confit tomato tostada, stone-baked quesadilla 46 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL WHILE the high street of Paddington, It’s standing room only (appropriately up nursery Green Space in a renovated in Brisbane’s inner west, has a moody socially distanced of course!) on Friday shop on the corner of James and new bar called Noir, it’s all sunshine evenings and weekends when the place Robertson Street. and greenery on the other side of town. opens at 2pm and runs until late. Drop- Two vibrant new venues, The Green ins pre- and post dinner reservations In a cultural nod to their collective and Sunshine have recently opened on at the numerous popular restaurants heritage, the pair are re-branding and James St, but more on that later. along the strip mean that tables turnover expanding the concept to include a promptly and that’s a good thing as walk- Lebanese inspired restaurant, deli and Noir occupies a small and thoroughly ins are the only way to go - bookings are homewares store within a new permanent maximised space, formally a design not accepted. Noir, 216 Given Terrace space (formerly an art gallery) just studio and fashion boutique, with a cosy Paddington; phone 0458 964 937. behind the ever-popular Harvey’s Bistro. mezzanine and almost hidden basement space as well as a breezy terrace out to Across the city in the inner north, in the Enter The Green, a cool, industrial one side of the bar. restaurant and shopping precinct of James space with concrete elements and raw Street, it’s all about Sunshine, luscious design juxtaposed with the softening Moodily lit with scrubbed wood tables greenery and vibrant Lebanese fare. effect of abundant lush greenery and and a mix of stools and armchairs, the warm red tones reminiscent of Lebanon’s vibe is very ‘inner city’ chic. Tables of local Simon Gloftis, the restaurateur who famous cedar trees. The design has an business suits file in for afterwork drinks used to rule the Gold Coast (Fish House impressive pedigree - internationally vying for tables alongside local residents and Hellenika) has now made this renowned designer Borhan Grofrani sipping cocktails and the result is a precinct his own with two of the city’s worked with Craig Channon from Channon convivial hum over the sultry soundtracks. most popular haunts - Hellenika on the Architects to create the multipurpose, pool deck at the Calile Hotel, and SK industrial/luxe fit-out. Behind the tiled bar is a wall of ‘harder Steak & Oyster also in the hotel precinct. to find’ wine varieties that favour minimal Well known chef Warren Turnbull intervention during the winemaking process. Now he is turning his attention away from (Banc and Assiette) is behind the menu slow cooked lamb shoulders and prime inspiration and the burners alongside Pours by the glass or bottle are cuts of steak and shining some sunlight chef Shaun Langdon. Giving traditional accompanied by charcuterie and cheese on an all-vegetarian offering in the space dishes a contemporary twist is the plan; selections - the cheeses supplied by formerly occupied by Timmy Kemp’s think green shakshuka with smoked Brisbane wholesaler Fino Foods with Chow House, next to the Palace Cinema. labne, swordfish skewers with chickpea delicious, cured meats and salami miso and fermented vegetables, and supplied by Saison Salumi. He’s teaming up with Theo Kampolis Ranger’s Valley short rib coated in a and Kelvin Andrews to create Sunshine, pomegranate glaze a few of the flavours As well as a curated selection of Australian a breezy all-outdoor dining space that you can expect from breakfast through and international wines, there’s a clipped champions a plant-based menu and to dinner. Enter The Green, 27 James but enticing range of craft beers and serves delicious numbers like stuffed Street, Fortitude Valley. (No phone.) ciders and a small selection of cocktails, peppers, silky eggplant dishes and more such as the Little Dove, a heady mix of mediterranean flavours that will take you Top left: Interior of Noir. tromba blanco tequila, rosemary, agave & cruising the Greek Isles without the jet lag Above right: Seating and delicious platter at Noir. grapefruit and the Jungle Bird, Goslings or fortnight in quarantine. black strap rum and campari muddled with fresh pineapple & lime. Fresh lemon iced tea, organic and biodynamic wines and fresh juices are on offer as is a colourful condiment table heaving with chillies, specialty vinegars and oils to complement the menu. Open daily from 10am until 10pm drop-ins and take-aways are encouraged as are leisurely times spent under the dining pagoda on James St, overlooking the hotel. Sunshine, 39 James Street Fortitude Valley. (No phone.) As leafy as James Street is, it’s about to become that little bit more green. Angela Sclavos and Christina Habchi are the pair behind the pandemic pop- September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 47

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 48 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque Follow us and keep up to 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage date with all our latest wine 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 info, tastings and events 1993 $90 1991 $850  on facebook, twitter and 1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 instagram. 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  Winestate Magazine 1998 $160  1996 $260 @WinestateEd 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 September/October 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XVI 372 TASTED 244 AWARDED WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E XVI Shiraz or syrah is arguably the most trustworthy and consistent red Mt. Monster 3 RINGS Barossa of any of the red varietals on offer. Why is this so? Firstly because Limestone Coast Valley Shiraz 2019 it delivers natural sweet fruited wines that require the minimum Shiraz 2019 HHH1/2 92pts of intervention and secondly it is this richness of flavour that can HHHH 94pts Quite a tarry earthy hide minor faults that other red varietals find difficult to hide. At a Prune and licorice bouquet and good palate restaurant if in doubt always choose the shiraz option! Here we see aromas fill the glass and weight with the oak again many great examples of various price ranges both for quaffing has a minty chocolaty tending to dominate and for special occassions. palate that has great the fruit at the moment. persistence, poise and $16 length. $18 SHIRAZ Massoni El Nino Shoofly South Mr Riggs The Truant UNDER $15 Estate Grown Australia Shiraz Red Knot Classified McLaren Vale Shiraz Pyrenees Shiraz 2019 HHHH 95pts McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 7 TASTED 2017 HHH 90pts Lovely purple hue, a 2019 HHHH 94pts Confectionery floral 4 AWARDED Mature chocolaty/ smoky bacon bouquet Enticing dark and inky fragrances and a silky earthy nose with a and rich and powerful fragrances and a multi smooth plumy palate “What can you expect complex briary fruit fruity palate with a layered savoury palate showing loads of at this price?” asked palate. $14.99 dense and chewy with a high level of personality. $17 one judge. “At their best texture. $17 acidity. Very drinkable. these should be clean, SHIRAZ Red Knot McLaren $19 Bird’s Eye View fresh and simple which $15-$20 Vale Shiraz 2019 XV Rouge Australia McLaren Vale Shiraz the better ones were,” HHHH 94pts Shiraz 2019 2019 HHH 91pts said another. 27 TASTED Well balanced beautifully HHH1/2 93pts Mature fruit cake- 13 AWARDED put together wine. Lots A big firm style that’s like aromas and an Tudor Central of fragrant spicy oak still very fresh with loads abundance of tannins on Victoria Shiraz Fresh is best here with tending to overpower of potential, needs air the rich palate. $16 2019 HHHH 95pts the 2019s showing the the fruit for the moment. to open up. Great with Very attractive spicy plum best examples. “These $15 steak! $18.99 3 RINGS Barossa nose with a floral hint are solid well-made Valley Shiraz of violets. Good length wines made for current 2016 HHH 91pts and persistence of fruit drinking,” said one judge. Mature, dark and flavours with generous “Stick to the well-known brooding with an oak. $12.99 regions and producers,” interesting complexity of advised another. earthy, olive and prune Dee Vine Estate characters. $16 The Drover Riverina Taylors Special Shiraz 2020 Release Clare Hereford HHH 90pts Shiraz 2019 Heathcote Lifted briary/berry HHHH1/2 96pts Shiraz 2020 VBBAEULSYUTSE bouquet with vanilla notes A youthful style with and a soft “tutti-frutti-like” great spicy/floral lift HHH 90pts palate. $4.99 to the nose and lovely A Cherry Ripe of a nose freshness to the dark and an oak driven palate Dee Vine Estate fruit driven palate; nice with spicy peppery Nericon Riverina spiciness with loads of flavours. $18 Shiraz 2019 tannins and a drying HHH 91pts finish. $15 Davey Brothers Super ripe peppery McLaren Vale Shiraz cherry fragrances with 2019 HHH 90pts spicy fruit flavours Attractive leafy briary and assertive tannins. fruit with loads of $11.99 spiciness and some earthy notes. $18 50 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2021