Winestate Magazine September October 2013

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIISHIRAZ Fox Creek Reserve McGuigan Farms Villa Maria Reserve Clayfield Ton Up& BLENDS McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz Syrah 2010 HHHH Grampians Shiraz2010 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 Beautifully balanced, 2010 HHH1/2$50-$75 A balanced, well-made Mulberry and cassis stylish shiraz that needs Almost Amarone in style wine - albeit quite hot, fruit aromas, with nice more time. Nice berry with a complex array of27 TASTED with a bright berry smoky oak layers. Nice lift to the nose and savoury aromas, and a22 AWARDED bouquet and some restraint and focus of spicy complexity to the sweet/sour and dried eucalypt and white the bright varietal fruit intense palate. $59.99 fruit palate. $50Two or three different pepper notes, and a flavours on the long, Saracen Estatesstyles here. An excellent, mouthful of ripe fruit and elegant palate. $70 Reserve Margaretconsistent group ranging sweet oak flavours. $70 Saltram Estate River Shirazfrom the classic, old, big Barossa Valley 2010 HHHHalcoholic and extracted Shiraz Tempranillo Ethereal lift of sweetstyles, the cool-climate, 2010 HHHH blackberry/violetmedium-weight ones Bright, vibrant and aromas. Nice bright fruitand the savoury, lees/ savoury, with spicy, attack on the palate.sulphide textural wines. perfumed, mulberry Surprisingly acid and fine nose and complex, grained tannins. $60Drayton’s Family juicy palate. A touch Grant BurgeWines Heritage Vines sweet, with long, grippy The Vigneron 1887Pokolbin Shiraz tannins. $50 Shiraz 2010 HHHH2010 HHHH1/2 The Rifleman Lifted, vibrant, floral fruitA very attractive, cool, Langhorne Creek fragrances and a bigleafy green wine, with Shiraz 2010 HHHH palate that’s all fruit butloads of complex meaty, Very oaky wine. “But has a nice oaky edge,gamey characters and great oak,” according and showing subtleshowing excellent to the judges. Sweet development. $74.95balance and weight. coconut and spice onA great wine to have the nose, and goodwith food. $60 dark, toasty, caramel flavours. $50 Business Luncheons We are delighted to invite you, your colleagues and clients to join us at A Business Lunch with David Dearie, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director, Treasury Wine Estates WHEN: 12:00-2:00 pm, November 25th, 2013 WHERE: InterContinental Hotel, North Terrace, AdelaideDavid Dearie was appointed Our master of ceremony will beChief Executive of Treasury Wine none other than Peter Simic, theEstates in May 2011. He has founder of Winestate Maganzine.extensive experience in alcohol Peter will conduct an interviewbeverage companies, most with David and answer questionsrecently as Managing Director, after David's presentation on theAustralia and New Zealand Wine industry and its future.for Foster’s Group Limited.Book now via our website www.aicc.org.au or email [email protected] or call 08 8221 7004 to secure your seat www.aicc.org.au102 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingMcLaren Vale Shingleback Peter Lehmann Ballast Stone Dowie Doole ReserveIII Associates D Block Reserve VSV 1885 Barossa Emetior Shiraz McLaren Vale ShirazSquid Ink Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 Big, ripe and simple, but Simple mixed berry A hot, minty, jammyHuge oak-driven Very interesting stylish, wine. Smells just bouquet and long, slightly wine. Harmoniouswine. Some brooding and complex shiraz. like a spice jar and has green line to the palate. balance of sweet oakwilderness on the Seaweedy/iodine an enormous charry oak “It’s pretending to be a and fruit showingnose and interesting characters on the nose palate. $60 cabernet,” suggested raisined characters. $60chocolaty complexity to and nicely textured, one judge. $50 Saracen Estatesthe palate. $55 purple fruit palate. $55 Mitchelton Print Margaret River Harcourt Valley Central Victoria Shiraz 2010 HHH Vineyards Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 “A big beast of a wine.” Old Vine Bendigo Slightly medicinal cherry Loads of oak here but Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 aromas, with loads has enough fruit weight Refreshing and very of superb sweet fruit to match. $60 regional style. Leafy flavours and showing Thorn-Clarke green aromas mingle some heat from the William Randell with aromatic spices alcohol. $65 Barossa Valley and mouthfilling savoury Annie’s Lane Copper Shiraz 2010 HHH flavours. $60 Trail Clare Valley Gorgeous crimson Heathcote Winery Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 colour, spices and Curagee Australia A huge, complex, tannic roses on the nose, and Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 wine - “take it skiing,” a spirituous, raspberry/ A “sombre”, cool- said one judge. “It’s like licorice palate. $60 climate shiraz, with a fruit cake with brandy,” Exemplar Heathcote some serious oak said another. $69.99 Shiraz 2010 HHH obvious on both the Bright berry fruit layered nose and the long, with eucalypt and weighty palate. $60 white pepper, and with mouthcoating oak. $65 Subscribe NOW! BINDERSAUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Australian residents only Your attractive binder easilyISSUES AUSTRALIA NEW ZEALAND HOME WINEMASTER (Includes Airmail) holds 7 issues - handy for7 issues (1yr) $A60 $A69 Complete Software Programme V10 $A89 quick reference!14 issues (2yrs) $A110 $A125 Upgrade to V10 $A34.95 1 Binder $A19.80 ASIA, PACIFIC ELSEWHERE Subscription Update* (1 year) V10 $A29 2 Binders $A337 issues (1yr) $A99 $A113 Subscription Update* (2 years) V10 $A49 3 Binders $A49.50 *Requires software programme.Price includes GST, postage, airmail and handling. Prices available for overseas on application.Mr / Mrs / Miss GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Recipient’s NameAddressSuburb State AddressCountry Phone ( Post Code ) Suburb State Country Phone (E-mail Post Code )Your subscription will start from the next issue. Please send a gift card to Me RecipientI enclose my cheque for $ Also fill in your details in the section above.payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my:Mastercard Visa SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGEName on card: Expires / which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access toSignature Winestate’s website and reviews. Available only through online order,Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 www.winestate.com.au September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 103

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIPenfolds Bin 150 CJ Pask Declaration Hollick Wilgha The Old Faithful The Old FaithfulMarananga Shiraz Hawke’s Bay Syrah Shiraz 2009 HHH Cafe Block Top of the Hill2010 HHH 2009 HHHH Huge, soft, mature, McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren ValeYoung, dark and spicy. Restrained savoury jammy style with 2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHLifted aromas and aromas with a peppery Ribena-like elements. Still an amazingly A lean, mature,warm, juicy palate. lift and similar palate, Palate is long and well youthful crimson/black Bordeaux style, with“It’s all potential,” with nice sweet/tangy integrated. $58 wine, with long, clean, sweet varietal fruit andsaid one judge. $74.99 elements and zesty oak/fruit nose, and a dusty oak. $50 tannin profile. $50 Brygon Reserve seamless and very Taylors St AndrewsSHIRAZ Jacob’s Creek Small Batch stylish palate. Just needs Clare Valley Shiraz& BLENDS Centenary Hill Margaret River more time in the cellar to 2008 HHH2009 Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH reach its best. $50 Massive oak-driven$50-$75 2009 HHHH A lovely medium-bodied, Symphony Hill wine. “But it’s great Very spicy style, with a textured wine beautifully Wines Reserve oak,” said one judge.15 TASTED lovely berry and licorice balanced and drinking Granite Belt Shiraz Prune-like fruit and13 AWARDED lift to the nose and big, well now. $59.99 2008 HHHH massive tannins. $60A solid class, with rich and ripe cassis fruit An intriguing wine. Warrenmang Estatea number of wines palate with some plush Boekenhoutskloof “Smells like an antique Pyrenees Shirazshowing excess alcohol tannins. $59.99 South Africa shop,” thought one 2008 HHHcharacters for the fruit Wicks Estate Syrah 2009 HHH judge. An old-world palate Soft, ripe, sweet andweight. “Generally more Eminence Adelaide Mature, elegant and old- very giving in flavour, with simple, with dark prunesavoury characters than Hills Shiraz Cabernet fashioned style. Sweet moderate tannins. $65 fruit and nice secondarysweet fruit evident 2009 HHHH funky aromas and a hot, Paracombe Adelaide characters. $60here,” noted one judge. A rich, old style with complex palate. $69.99 Hills Shiraz Viognier Grampians Estate elevated floral aromas 2008 HHH1/2 Streeton Reserved’Arenberg The Dead and sweet generous fruit The Rifleman Bright purple wine with Shiraz 2008 HHHArm McLaren Vale palate, with “antique”, Langhorne Creek big, dark, earthy, fruit Smells of fruit cake, withShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 perfumed-like developed Shiraz 2009 HHH nose and sweet blend a very youthful palateDark, earthy, gamey characters. $60 All Ribena and of varietal fruit flavours and Barolo-like tanninand meaty on the nose. DogRidge MVP blackcurrants here, with some leathery characters. $65Extremely complex palate McLaren Vale Shiraz with a slight medicinal notes. $69 Indra Geelong- still young but some 2009 HHHH woody nose and big, Shiraz 2008 HHHleathery notes developing. Stylish and elegant but soft, savoury palate Long Shadows Dark and meaty on theLovely tannins that “linger still a big wine, with with obvious oak The Sequel nose, with brooding,and make you salivate for a seamless balance characters. $50 Syrah Cabernet complex, meatymore”. $60 between the soft fruit 2008 HHH1/2 flavours and barnyardy and sweet oak. Quite Serafino Sharktooth Balanced, stylish and elements. $65 developed. $65 Shiraz 2009 HHH elegant, with masses of The Old Faithful Pokolbin Estate A generous wine. “Like raisined fruit. An aged Top of the Hill Reserve Shiraz a warm fruit cake with classic. $70 McLaren Vale 2009 HHH1/2 layers of chocolate,” Shiraz 2007 HHH A lightweight, simple suggested one judge. $70 Dry and dusty, with and fruity shiraz - nicely controlled varietal quite elegant, with SHIRAZ fruit characters and a hot mouthwatering tannins & BLENDS alcoholic finish. $50 and lovely minerally 2008 & OLDER Palmer Reserve acidity. $50 $50-$75 Margaret River Ruffilli Estates Shiraz 2007 HHH Reserve McLaren 20 TASTED Purple wine with bright, Vale Shiraz 13 AWARDED minty, cassis aromas 2009 HHH1/2 and loads of punchy Old oaky style - some “Nice to see some mid- black fruit/licorice olive-like notes to weight, vibrant styles flavours. $65 the nose and a very here that are holding Eldredge Gilt Edge generous palate, with a their own,” said one Clare Valley Shiraz hot alcoholic finish. $50 judge. Also some big, 2007 HHH Longview The Piece old-fashioned tannic A spicy, straightforward Adelaide Hills Shiraz styles, with excess style, with lingering 2009 HHH1/2 alcohol. Balance was still sweet fruit and very Dark, pruney nose, with the big issue especially chewy tannins. $70 a spirity lift. Hot in the at this price. And some mouth and rich with dried beginning to dry out. fruits characters. Nice tannin structure. $70104 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingOrlando WinesLawson’sPadthaway Shiraz2004 HHHA big, drying, tannicwine, with overt eucalyptnotes and some fruitsweetness. $64.99SHIRAZ 2011$75-$10020 TASTED13 AWARDEDOak handling here varied d’Arenbergfrom underdone to The Amaranthineoverdone, but the better McLaren Vale Shirazwines showed fruit depth 2011 HHHH1/2and oak balance where An exotic and complexwinemakers had the style that’s long andcourage to add good oak lingering, with excellentrather than holding back! varietal fruit charactersThe best also showed that - quite earthy with anthere are some excellent outer layer of chocolaty-wines from 2011. like elements. $99Craggy Range d’ArenbergLe Sol Hawkes Bay Tyche’s MustardSyrah 2011 HHHHH McLaren Vale ShirazA medium density style, 2011 HHHH1/2with an amazingly vivid Robust, youthful andcolour. Lovely chocolaty complex, with lovelycharacters are layered cool tar and spice-likewith spicy elements. elements, and beautifulSoft and flavoursome in vanillin oak characters. Stillthe mouth with some a tad closed. Needs morenice nutty oak. $99.95 time in the cellar. $99 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 105

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIHentley Farm d’Arenberg d’Arenberg Bethany EstateThe Beast Barossa The Blind Tiger The Other Side Reserve GRValley Shiraz McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Valley2011 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2011 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHHHA silky, soft, easy Excellent flavour profile A big, heavy, basket A mellow, mouthfillingdrinking shiraz, with here - lots of raspberries, press-like style. Lots of wine that’s all mocha andexcellent seamless spices and pepper that powerful sweet fruit and chocolate, with grippybalance between the fruit are perfectly balanced plenty of oak and grainy tannins and still has aand the oak, and showing by the oak tannins. $99 tannins to match. $99 good line of acid. $90a minty lift to the nose d’Arenberg Palmers Reserveand ripe flavours on the The Little Venice Palmers Reserve Margaret Riverpalate. $80 McLaren Vale Margaret River Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2011 HHHH Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 A sound, round, Robust, warm and ripe A fresh, clean, medium- commercial style offering shiraz but everything is bodied and typical cool- a nice complexity of big in balance, with powerful climate style of shiraz - all warm fruit and meaty, varietal fruit and some spicy and aromatic. $75 savoury elements. $75 well managed, quality Palmers Reserve oak. $99 Nardone Baker Margaret River The Wara Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 d’Arenberg Manta Reserve Clayfield Grampians Very dark and intense The Swinging McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 style of shiraz,with Malaysian 2011 HHH1/2 A powerfully complex some medicinal notes McLaren Vale A full-bodied, tannic shiraz, with sweet to the nose and quite an Shiraz 2011 HHHH wine, with great colour, raspberry aromas alcoholic palate. $75 Distinctive Bordeaux a lovely bouquet and mingling with the oak, McGuigan style, with simple, spicy, quite simple, warm and a flavoursome Handmade mulberry-like varietal palate with flavour sweet fruit and Langhorne Creek fruit, grippy tannins, intensity. $78 oak combination of 2009 HHH1/2 spicy oak and nice line characters on the well- Lovely crimson colour of acidity. $99 Shingleback structured palate. $75 with a spicy aromatic Unedited Kalleske Eduard nose and greatMollydooker d’Arenberg McLaren Vale Barossa Valley persistence of soft ripeCarnival of Love Shipsters’ Rapture Shiraz 2011 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH fruit flavours. $McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Distinctive regional Mature developed wine Yelland & Papps2011 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 style showing intense that smells of Bonox and Divine BarossaNicely balanced wine, A powerful shiraz - very varietal fruit aromas and has some porty varietal Valley Shirazwith sweet brambles regional, with spicy/ flavours. $79.95 fruit characters, with a 2010 HHHlifting off the nose and sweet ripe fruit and nice balance of nutty oak. $85 Big, well-advanced,creamy flavours filling line of acid. A long-term SHIRAZ Saltram Barossa tannic style with plentythe mouth with spicy prospect. $99 2010 & OLDER Shiraz 2010 HHHH of juicy, jubey fruit. $75oak and sweet fruit. $90 $75-$100 A poised and promising Hentley Farm shiraz, with ripe spicy The Beast STAR RATINGS  13 TASTED fruit and very subtle oak Barossa Valley 12 AWARDED creating lovely aromas Shiraz 2010 HHHThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of and warm, sweet Another big tannicexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. A consistent group of flavours. $90 blockbuster - some fruitAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry wines which you would Paxton EJ characters and veryprofessionals and are compared in peer expect in this price McLaren Vale subtle oak. $80classes by three judges. range. Many of these Shiraz 2009 HHHH Saltram No 1CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, showed riper fruit and “A top shiraz,” declared Barossa Shiraza major mail-order business. alcohol giving lots of one judge. Full-bodied 2009 HHHCD Cellar door price. “bang for your buck”! and well-balanced, with Loads of tannin andCDO Cellar door only. excellent maturation acid, with some intenseSO Sold out. and some warming oak, residual sugar and$N/A Price not available at time of printing. alcohol. $85 warming alcohol. $99.99 Contact information pg 168. Saltram No 1 Barossa Valley Estate Barossa Shiraz E & E Black Pepper RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). 2008 HHHH Barossa Valley ShirazFor a complete list of what we tasted A full-bodied style 2007 HHHplease refer to www.winestate.com.au of shiraz yet it has a Considering its age, certain elegance about it is still showing a good it. Loads of smart, very level of acidity, with dark dark fruit characters. fruit and grippy tannins. High alcohol. $99.99 Drink now. $90106 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingSHIRAZ2011-2010$100-$20010 TASTED5 AWARDEDWe have to ask thequestion whetherthese match up to theprevious flight andfor half the group theanswer is no! Howeverthe better wines didshow character and areworthy of seeking out. McLaren Vale III Associates Giant Squid Ink Reserve Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 A well-matured, well- balanced wine showing a good level of complexity. Has plenty of delightful dark varietal fruit nicely supported by the long, fleshy tannins. $150Mollydooker Wynns CoonawarraVelvet Glove Estate MichaelMcLaren Vale Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz2011 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHHAn intense and still very A sound, robust style,youthful shiraz, with huge with loads of jammyspicy and slightly jammy blackcurrant varietalvarietal fruit characters on fruit characters withthe nose and palate, and nice balance of oak.matched by some well- Silky smooth in thehandled oak. $185 mouth. $149.99 Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010 HHHH A sound, stand-out wine that is robust and still very tight, with some subtle fruit characters and lovely, long, lingering finish. $174.99 Trinity Hill Homage Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2010 HHH A rich, ripe, sweet fruit shiraz, with maturity, good oak and warming alcohol. $120 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 107

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIISHIRAZ E. Guigal Chateau Wolf Blass Platinum Exile Barossa Valley E. Guigal La Mouline& BLENDS d’Ampuis Cote-Rotie Label Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Cote-Rotie Syrah2009 & OLDER Syrah Viognier Shiraz 2009 HHH “The best wine of this Viognier 2008 HHHH$100-$200 2009 HHHH1/2 A well-made, commercial group,” declared one of A harmonious and A lovely smooth, mellow style. Big, slightly porty the judges. It’s mature complex wine - beautifully13 TASTED wine, with good spicy fruit, some good oak and and intense, and offers aged, with a big varietal11 AWARDED raspberry fruit characters robust tannins. $160 mouthfilling mature fruit nose and long, lingering,Although there were that lift off the nose and flavours seamlessly mature and mellowsome excellent wines create intense flavours 1847 First Pick balanced with the other flavours. $445here, a number were underscored by bright, Barossa Valley elements, and has Exile Barossa Valleyquite evolved and firm acid. $150 Shiraz 2008 HHH warming alcohol. $220 Shiraz 2010 HHHstylistically variable, Elderton Single A nicely matured E. Guigal A lively, light and well-and some would have Vineyard Command wine, with warm fruits La Landonne made style, with goodbeen better with Shiraz 2009 HHH and some attractive Cote-Rotie Syrah dried fruit-like characters.another year of age. A rounded, robust mintiness. $100 2008 HHHHH Still very fresh. $220Gralyn Estate Reserve and nicely aged wine, This wine has a nice Exile Barossa ValleyMargaret River Shiraz with juicy fruit and big Wolf Blass Platinum combination of floral and Shiraz 2009 HHH2009 HHHH1/2 tannins. $110 Label Barossa savoury characters, with A very mature shiraz,A lovely cool-climate style, Bird in Hand Nest Shiraz 2008 HHH excellent fruit and a lovely with extremely ripe fruitwith slightly green fruit Egg Adelaide Hills Nicely developing shiraz. soft, and well-structured and long, soft, tanninnose and showing a good Shiraz 2009 HHH Soft and clean, and still and seamlessly balanced structure. $220concentration of peppery Big, broad, style loaded with plenty of acid and palate. $445 E. Guigal D’Ampuiselements with some with heaps of ripe fruit tannins. $160 Cote-Rotie Syrahcool, regional, varietal fruit flavours. $120 2008 HHHflavours. $120 Saltram The Journal Bird in Hand Nest Lovely and soft and Barossa Shiraz Egg Adelaide Hills developed, with aPeter Lehmann 2009 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHH complex integration ofStonewell Barossa A hot, minty number, A matured shiraz aged flavours. $240Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 with plenty of sweet showing a nice HenschkeFresh and alive and shiraz fruit on nose and combination of fruit, age Hill of Grace Shirazseamlessly balanced, palate. $120 and alcohol. $140 2008 HHHwith a big hit of raspberry A ripe, juicy and cleanfruit with peppery Serafino Terremoto style, with a somewhatlicorice layers. Good acid Syrah 2001 HHH broad varietal palate. $750spine and nice tannin Intense and porty, Penfolds Grangestructure. $110 with excellent flavour Shiraz 2008 HHH freshness for a Sweet, robust. “More 12-year-old. $110 Bordeaux-like in style,” suggested one judge. SHIRAZ With warming alcohol & BLENDS overtones. Needs more $200+ time! $785 10 TASTED 8 AWARDED The judges took no prisoners here! “In an effort to produce the greatest wines some winemakers were pushing the limit of ripeness and oak extraction which did not always work,” commented one of the judges.108 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

Wine & spirit labelling, de-labelling or specialised packaging. We’re the pick of the bunch Orana’s Wingfield Wine Centre features a state of the art labelling machine, which can apply front, back, capsules (tin or foil), medals and batch codes, up to 1500 bottles an hour. Our Wingfield site is a bonded facility, which allows us to store and work with local and imported spirits, but we also can undertake your work at any of our regional sites. Orana’s quality systems ensure your job is completed to the highest standards and we are very competitively priced. By using Orana, you are helping to provide employment to hundreds of South Australians living with a disability. Orana employees find purpose, stimulation, and social contact through their work. So while our employees are performing a great service to you, you’re providing them with many opportunities to lead a better life. As a not for profit organisation, any profits made by Orana go back into the organisation to provide accommodation, training and support for people living with a disability. For further information on Orana’s wine and spirit services or to obtain a quote contact: Paul McDonald, Business Development Manager on (08) 8375 2000 or 0413 446 811.• Labelling• De-labelling• Medal and over sticker application• Packaging• Gift boxing• Bonded storage and licensed to complete work with spirits• Cost effective solutions for the wine and spirit industry Orana Head Office 26 Watson Avenue, Netley SA 5037 T (08) 8375 2000 E [email protected] www.oranaonline.com.au

76 TASTED57 AWARDEDSEMILLON & BLENDSA great result for our annual semillon tasting, with Hardys Crest South Stolen Blockrecommendations across the board, from young citrus styles to Eastern Australia Semillon Sauvignonwell-aged classic lemon and hay examples. If you haven’t tried an Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHHHold semillon now is the time. Some of these make the European Blanc 2012 HHH Pale straw colour, withconnoisseurs sit up and take notice. Smells buttery and pear- delicate passionfruit like, with jasmine notes and lychee-like aromas,SEMILLON De Bortoli Prestige St Hallett Poacher’s and slightly sweet, with a crunchy, piercing,& BLENDS Semillon Sauvignon Barossa Semillon lemon/lime flavours. $13 pineapple palate. “Has aUNDER $10 Blanc 2012 HHH Sauvignon Blanc long life ahead of it.” $18 Grassy, green apple 2010 HHHH1/2 Taylors Promised10 TASTED bouquet, with similar Nicely developing Land Semillon Two Rivers Hunter5 AWARDED characters on the palate. toasty melon aromas Sauvignon Blanc Valley Semillon Acid/sweetness in and green apple and 2011 HHH Sauvignon BlancThe judges found this balance. $8 grapefruit flavours on Musky lolly fragrances 2012 HHHa group of sound, well- an amazingly textured and an elegant and very Smoky, charry aromas,made wines and overall Hocus Pocus palate, with a crisp tropical palate. Nice with herbal/floral notesoffering some great buys. South Australia finish. “A very elegant, phenolic notes. $13 and lingering, minerally, Semillon Sauvignon stand-out wine.” $12 lime flavours. $16McWilliams Blanc 2011 HHH The Puppeteer SEMILLONInheritance Semillon Light, easy drinking South Australia BLENDS Alkoomi FranklinSauvignon Blanc style, with fruit salad Semillon Sauvignon $15-$20 River Semillon2012 HHHH fruit and some honeyed/ Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 Sauvignon BlancLovely nose - smells of toasty notes. $8.90 A fuller and quite 9 TASTED 2012 HHHfresh cut grass and hints advanced style of wine, 6 AWARDED Nose sitting in the warmof honeysuckle, with SEMILLON with attractive toasty tropical spectrum andflavours of grapefruit & BLENDS red apple aromas and a Slightly better fruit palate rich, long andand lychees. Excellent $10-$15 pleasant, soft, lemony here but also more flavoursome. $18texture and lemony palate. $14.90 winemaking faultsfinish. $5 11 TASTED Penfolds Koonunga evident, with some Rosabrook Classic 7 AWARDED Hill South Australia winemakers pushing too Margaret RiverAnnie’s Lane Clare Semillon Sauvignon hard to get complexity. Semillon SauvignonValley Semillon The judges commented Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc that for a few dollars Pungent and grassy Bimbadgen Ridge Some toasty complexity2012 HHHH more you are getting a on the nose, with Semillon Verdelho to the tropical nose andCrisp and well balanced, little more complexity lovely balance of lifted 2012 HHHH a clean, fruit salad of awith zesty Granny and texture. zesty quince and lime Flinty, cut grass/green palate. $15Smith-like characters flavours edged with nice apple bouquet and zippy,and some strong Catching Thieves phenolic notes. $11.47 sherbety palate, with SEMILLONsauvignon blanc Margaret River The Puppeteer minerally, citrus palate. $15-$20tropicals. Good food Semillon Sauvignon South Australia Fresh and simple butwine. $9.80 Blanc 2011 HHHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignon very well made. $16 5 TASTED Delicate green hues, Blanc 2008 HHH1/2 3 AWARDEDDe Bortoli Sacred with lifted green apple/ Attractive honeyed Grant Burge TenetHill Australia pear bouquet. Palate aromas developing on the Estate Semillon Again, as with theSemillon Sauvignon is crisp, fresh and full- nose and good varietal Sauvignon Blanc previous blends, thereBlanc 2012 HHH1/2 flavoured, with tropical fruit flavours with some 2010 HHHH was better fruit here butSome lifted tropicals on flavours overlaying toasty aged notes. $14.90 Subtle lemony characters also more winemakingthe nose and nice balance grapefruit element. on the lively nose and faults evident.of sweet tropical and Has nice flintiness. $13 tight, delicate, citrussy,melon fruit flavours. Good mouth-puckering palate. Two Rivers Stonescommercial style. $5 One to watch. Will age Throw Hunter Valley well. $15 Semillon 2012 HHHH Creamy lemony aromas, with toasty elements and sweet nougat-like lift. Interesting tropical palate, with a nice citrussy background. $16110 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingMcWilliams Bird in Hand Two Fraser Gallop SEMILLONMt Pleasant in the Bush Adelaide Margaret River $25-$30Elizabeth Hunter Hills Semillon Semillon SauvignonValley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 9 TASTED2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHH Seamless balance ofVery complex lemony Toast/lemon sherbet tropical and grassy 9 AWARDEDnose and a fine palate. nose and very good varietal charactersGood structure and palate complexity and underscored with chalky According to the judgeslength, and lovely flavour, with slate-like acidity. Has length and this is a very ‘safe’grapefruit lift with acidity. Good cellaring weight. $22 consistent class whichchalky acidity. $14 potential. $22 Allandale Semillon will not disappoint. 2012 HHHPeter Lehmann Rothbury Estate Light, flinty, citrus RidgeViewBarossa Semillon Gerry Sissingh bouquet, with a very Generations2010 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley tropical fruit palate etched Reserve SemillonSubtle green apple Semillon 2010 HHHH with tart acidity. $20 2009 HHHH1/2aromas lift off the nose The nose is all buttery Tyrrell’s Wines A very attractive andand has a lean, lemony, and nutty; some cooked Brookdale Hunter luscious varietal, withacidic palate, with a apple influence. The Valley Semillon amazing fruit weight.slate-like character. palate is zesty and 2012 HHH Smells of limes andWill age well. $14 delicate, with green Rich yet elegant, with grapefruit, with developing apple flavours. $20 melon and grapefruit buttery toasty notes.SEMILLON characters layered with Delicate and zesty in the& BLENDS Mount Pleasant fresh hay elements. $20 mouth, with green apple$20-$25 James Estate Elizabeth Hunter Peter Lehmann Hill flavours. 5+ $25 Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon & Valley Barossa16 TASTED Valley Semillon 2006 HHHH Semillon 2012 HHH Pokolbin Estate15 AWARDED 2012 HHHH1/2 Nose reminiscent of Zesty, green apple nose, Phil Swannell Aromas of asparagus buttered crumpets, with with cashew notes - Pokolbin SemillonSome nice complexity in and green bean, with honeyed notes. Citrussy similar characters on the 2009 HHHH1/2this group. “Some well- some struck match- palate still has lovely complex palate. $24 Delicate green wine thathandled, unobtrusive like characters adding freshness, with good Stella Bella has style and eleganceoak adds to the mix,” complexity. Excellent lemony acid. $20 Margaret River with true varietal fruit,said one judge. texture to the tart, Semillon Sauvignon creamy mouthfeel, pure pineapple-like palate, GMH by Geoff Hardy Blanc 2011 HHH acid spine and a longMount Pleasant with piercing acidity. Melange a Trois Developed toasty citrus lingering finish. “DrinkingLovedale Hunter Will age well. $23 Semillon 2011 HHHH aromas and fuller-style beautifully with grace”,Valley Semillon Mount Pleasant A fine, delicate wine, palate, with excellent thought one judge. $252007 HHHHH Anne Hunter with a perfumed, use of oak. $22Excellent oak influence Valley Semillon confectionery bouquet. Pertaringa Gartelmannon the nose creating 2006 HHHH1/2 Nice, sweet, pineapple Bonfire Block Hunter Estatelovely, nutty, nougat Incredible colour for characters on the palate. Semillon 2010 HHH Benjamin Semillonaromas. Amazing lemon the age, with sweet, Has a great life ahead. A fuller, rounder style ripe 2011 HHH1/2flavour intensity, with lifted, honeyed lemon with plenty of tropical Ripe tropical aromasattractive oak backbone aromas and a tight and 3-5 $20 fruit nicely balanced by and vibrant lemon andon the buttery, toasty citrussy palate, with a crisp, lemony acid. $20 lime flavours, with lovelypalate. A true semillon zesty mineral spine and Mount Pleasant zippy acidity and somestyle. $20 marzipan-like elements. Elizabeth Hunter alcohol warmth. $28 Nicely textured. $20 Valley Semillon Ernest Hill Cyril 2011 HHH1/2 RidgeView Hunter Valley Smells of lemon curd and Generations Semillon 2013 HHHH Pink Lady apples. Tastes Reserve Semillon Very sweet, lifted floral/ of apricots. Very tight 2010 HHH1/2 jasmine-like bouquet acid spine, with very well- Tropical fruits lift off the and crisp, clean, green managed oak. $20 nose and fill the mouth apple palate, with some with a lovely complexity sweetness and some of flavours. Loads of alcohol warmth. $22 lemony acid. $25 JUDGESRebecca Kennedy Neville Falkenberg Tim DolanWhite and sparkling Wine consultant. Formerly Winemaker for Peterwinemaker for Accolade senior winemaker for Ross Lehmann Wines.Wines. Former senior Estate. Previously chief Formerly winemaker forwinemaker at Boar’s Rock Winemaker at Chain of Kangarilla Road Winery.for the past two years. Ponds Wines for five years; Appointed associatePreviously she worked with 31 vintages completed, judge at the BarossaLanghorne Creek and Norman with 26 years at Tollana Wine Show. HasWines. Associate judge at and Penfolds Wines. vintaged in California,Adelaide and McLaren Vale Associate judge Adelaide Barolo and Canada.wine shows and judge at the and Canberra wine shows.Riverland wine show. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 111

SEMILLON & BLENDSCoolangatta Drayton’s Susanne Coolangatta EstateEstate Shaolhaven Semillon 2009 HHHH Estate GrownCoast Semillon A green lime and kiwi Shaolhaven2008 HHH1/2 fruit bouquet, and clean, Coast SemillonToasty aromas and lean and well-made red 2005 HHHH1/2very attractive, varietal apple palate, with a touch A long, complex, syrupypalate with good lemony of the tropics and a good and beautifully agedacid cutting through. acid finish. 5+ $35 wine. Some lemonMaturing well. $28 rind on the nose, with Coolangatta Estate buttery nutty toastyRidgeView Woolstone layers. Creamy cashewGenerations Reserve Craft Shaolhaven palate, with the lemonSemillon 2011 HHH Coast Semillon rind characters showingLovely lifted, lemon/ 2009 HHH1/2 through. $50cashew nut nose and Sweet cashew nut-delicate, sweet apple like oak mingles with Coolangatta Estatepalate, with a crisp grapefruit characters on Shaolhaven Coastending. $25 both the nose and the Semillon 2006 HHHH well-balanced palate. $30 Still very tight and needingGumpara Wines lots more time. FlintyOld Vine Barossa Allandale Hunter Gartelmann Tyrrell’s Wines nose - smells of greenSemillon 2010 HHH Valley Semillon Hunter Estate Belford Hunter limes. Elegant palate;Citrus nose, with toasty 2007 HHHHH Benjamin Semillon Valley Semillon plenty of oak in balancelayers. Vibrantly fresh A luscious semillon, with 2010 HHHH1/2 2007 HHH1/2 with the acid. $50palate, with cashew and gorgeous butterscotch Colour browning slightly. Very bright, pungenthoneysuckle flavours. $25 bouquet and limes, Candied nose has flinty/ aromas and sweet, Bimbadgen lychees and pears toasty complexity and nicely structured palate Signature HunterJames Estate showing through. Soft some excellent varietal exhibiting good mineral Valley SemillonReserve Hunter creamy flavours, with flavours of pears, honey and chalky elements. $33 2011 HHH1/2Valley Semillon excellent lemon sherbet and cashews lingering Flinty, lifted lemon rind/2009 HHH elements and a long, long after the wine has SEMILLON orange peel nose andAromas of lemon lingering finish. $32 gone. $30 $40+ vibrant lemon sherbet-sherbet; some toast. Has Thompson Estate Peter Lehmann like palate. Needs morea refreshing and elegant Semillon Sauvignon Margaret 6 TASTED time in the cellar. $40green lime palate. $25 Blanc 2012 HHHH1/2 Barossa Semillon Great style and structure 2008 HHHH1/2 6 AWARDED GartelmannAlkoomi Wandoo here. Very sweet, “Wow.” A rich, fullerFranklin River tropical fragrances, with style, ageing beautifully Hunter EstateSemillon 2006 HHH grassy/herbal notes. and brimming over Benjamin SemillonLovely honeyed notes Lively passionfruit and with lovely creamy A range of very tight 2009 HHH1/2on the buttery/toasty gooseberry flavours nutty flavours, with wines, with austere Very attractive wine, withnose. Beautiful palate tightly wrapped in some delicious apple and pear fruit to the creamy amazing ageing potential.layered with spicy oak piercing acidity. $30 characters underneath butterscotch styles. Has citrussy aromas andand fruit. $29 on a tight, zesty palate. These will age beautifully. a tight, minerally, citrus “An exciting bracket to palate. 5+ $45SEMILLON 5+ $34 taste,” noted one judge.$30-40 Drayton’s Heritage Brokenwood Maxwell Wines Semillon12 TASTED Vineyard Semillon 2011 HHH8 AWARDED 2007 HHHHH Subdued aromas and The nose exudes lovely tight palate, with piercingThe great and the faulty, green apple and frangipani acidity and green applewith a few pretenders fragrances. Lovely flavours. $60not making the grade. honeyed lemon sherbetBut there were also palate, with incrediblesome nice tight wines length. Hints of spice andthat need a few more attractive phenolics. Veryyears of ageing. good acid backbone. $50Pokolbin EstatePokolbin Semillon2004 HHHHH“Wow - this is simplybeautiful”, said onejudge. “It has realclass!” Smells ofhoneysuckle and tropicalfruit -similar charactersin the mouth edged withlemon zest. Great palatepresentation. $30112 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINYARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIAONE FOR THE GOLFERS scheduled to re-open early in November. A DIFFERENT TASTEAND GOURMETS In the meantime, business continues as usual with the adjacent The House of Jack HAD enough wine tasting for the day? TheTHE Mornington Peninsula has a new Rabbit open seven days for wine tastings Yarra Valley Cider and Ale Trail offers visitorsresort that should please both golfers and and sales and cafe style lunches, as well a trip through several parts of the Yarragourmets. The Mercure Portsea Golf Club and as dinners Friday and Saturday nights from and includes seven artisanal producers,Resort, located an hour south of Melbourne, 6pm. Jack Rabbit also serves breakfasts including an eco-friendly brewery and aopened in June and has been developed on weekend mornings between 9am and winery producing a range of top ciders.as part of an integrated multi-million dollar 10.30am, while the Bellarine’s first cider, There is a rich history of beer in the Yarradevelopment incorporating a new clubhouse, Flying Brick Cider, is also on sale in three Valley, where hops farming dates back toaccommodation and function complex. The styles, original, draught and pear. Lunch the early 1800s. Cider production laggedMercure offers 24 state-of-the-art rooms, options currently include the likes of spinach behind until at least the early 20th century,with facilities for both business and leisure and ricotta lasagne, roast pumpkin, pine nut but Kellybrook has been involved in thetravellers, including an on-site restaurant and snow peatendrilsalad; Scotchfillet steakand conference facilities. “By partnering sandwich with tomato, smoked cheddar, industry for 50 years. Among the highlightswith Portsea Golf Club it has enabled us mustard pickles and crunchy onion rings; of the trail are Coldstream Brewery Bar andto add to Portsea’s tourism offering and and chicken risotto with roasted butternut Restaurant, opened for business in 2007cater to the growing demand for premium pumpkin, baby spinach, toasted pepitas and with a brewery shipped in from New Zealandaccommodation by leisure travellers,” parmesan cheese. There is also a range of and re-built onsite, White Rabbit Brewery atsays general manager Duncan Mars. “The gourmet sandwiches available. Think pork Healesville, eco-friendly Buckley Brewery,Mercure will also provide new opportunities knuckle, Reuben or lamb meatball offerings. the clubby and atmospheric Hargreavesto build the meetings and events market Jack Rabbit Vineyard is at 85 McAdams Rd, Hill Brewing Company at Yarra Glenn,in the region which is already on the rise.” Bellarine; phone (03) 5251 2223. http://www. Punt Road Wines/Napoleone and Co CiderBoasting panoramic views of Port Phillip Bay, jackrabbitvineyard.com.au. and cider producers Giverny Estate, andthe four-star Mercure has been developed industry veterans Kellybrook Winery/Kellyalongside the new clubhouse. Perfect for OUT OF THE ASHES … Brothers Cider.golfing getaways, the Mercure offers a “Playand Stay” package which includes 18 holes THE renaissance of Marysville, east of BASE YOURSELFof golf and one nights’ accommodation for two Melbourne and at the extremities of the Yarra IN MELBOURNEin a king room with balcony overlooking the Valley, will continue with the construction ofgolf course. Open daily for all meals, Spike a new hotel and conference complex: Vibe WITH the Yarra Valley, Bellarine PeninsulaRestaurant features modern cuisine using Hotel and Conference Centre by the Toga and Mornington Peninsula right on itsfresh local produce through its seasonal a Hotels group. The township of Marysville was doorstep, many visitors opt to basela carte menus. The restaurant features an devastated by the Black Saturday bushfires themselves in Melbourne and takeextensive wine list, showcasing wines from of 2009 and Toga is creating a $28 million day trips to the various wine regions.the best of Australia’s wine regions, including development it hopes will play a major role Metro Hotels offers a range of seasonalMornington labels. Room rates at Mercure in the rejuvenation of the region. The hotel packages at its Metro Apartments onPortsea, the 39th Accor property in Victoria, and conference centre will be fully integratedstart from $169 per night. For bookings visit with the local community, providing ongoingwww.accorhotels.com employment opportunities and attracting increased numbers of local visitors. Vibe HotelHOP IN FOR A LOOK and Conference Centre Marysville will be a contemporary, four-star complex featuring 100THERE is change afoot at Jack Rabbit guest rooms, including five suites, conferenceVineyard, which has perhaps the most centreandassociatedconferencing/exhibitiondramatic setting of any winery on the Bellarine spaces for up to 300 people, a restaurant/cafe,Peninsula outside Geelong. In late April, the winebar/pub,spa/healthandwellbeingcentre,Jack Rabbit Vineyard Restaurant closed for gymnasium and swimming pool. The hotel andmajor renovations. A new design takes full conference centre is expected to be open toadvantage of the panoramic views and is welcome guests late next year.114 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

travelbriefsBank Place. Prices start from $175 per by calling the toll free central reservations internet access and iPod dock, along withnight, including accommodation for two in line on 1800 004 321 or online at luxury body care products and originala one-bedroom apartment, bottle of wine www.metrohotels.com.au. artwork in each suite. There are fouron arrival, breakfast pack for two, free accommodation wings at Quarters; Bass,wireless internet and a late checkout until FAMILY VISION ‘COMPLETE’ Bauer, Westall and Flinders, each named in11am. Metro Apartments on Bank Place honour of an explorer. The hotel’s Terminusis in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD and FIRST there was Terminus, then Peninsula restaurant showcases executive chef Pierrefeatures European-style, chic, affordable and now Quarters. And finally the Khodja’s North African-influenced cuisine,boutique apartments. Tucked away down redevelopment of the 120-year-old Flinders with a French accent, and was recentlyan atmospheric cobbled laneway, it is close Hotel on the Mornington Peninsula is awarded a chef’s hat by The Age Goodto Melbourne’s many charming lanes and complete. Quarters is a stylish, 40-room Food Guide 2013. Also part of the complexthe city precinct, with its range of cafes, boutique hotel conceived and built by the is The Deck, which offers a more casualrestaurants and wine bars. Bustling by day Zig Inge family. “It is the culmination of our dining experience. The Flinders Hotel is onand alive with al fresco dining by night, vision to make the Flinders Hotel a true Cook St, Flinders; phone (03) 5989 0201.Bank Place is situated a short stroll away culinary destination on Victoria’s Mornington www.flindershotel.com.au.from all of Melbourne’s attractions - Bourke Peninsula, following the opening ofStreet Mall, Federation Square, Southgate Terminus fine dining restaurant and then TASTE THE ‘BEST’Centre and Crown Casino. Featuring 46 Peninsula function space in Decemberstudio and one-bedroom apartments, as 2011,” said Karen Inge, Flinders Hotel OAKRIDGE winemaker David Bicknell iswell as a unique spa room and a split-level, director. “We knew that Flinders needed known as one of the Yarra Valley’s besttwo bedroom penthouse, the suites include high-quality accommodation and were makers of chardonnay and pinot noir, anda fully equipped kitchen and laundry so adamant the design and style needed visitors to the cellar door can taste a wideguests can self-cater. But a stay wouldn’t be to fit in with the surrounding area, and to range, including limited releases, 364 dayscomplete without a meal at one of the city’s capture how Flinders Hotel and Quarters a year. The family-owned Oakridge cellarcelebrated restaurants like the renowned are anchored in the fabric of this stunning door and restaurant are open all year forSyracuse, located directly opposite coastal destination. Quarters had to be a tastings except on Christmas Day, and inthe apartments, or The Vault, a unique addition to wines available exclusively atunderground restaurant located in the unique property with accommodation that the tasting facility, the restaurant servesoriginal basement vault of the Apartments. felt like a private, modern, seaside retreat, innovative cuisine using the local produceIt is a very different dining experience. offering relaxed comfort and spacious whenever possible. Starters from recentlyLittle extras include complimentary daily accommodation, with a little touch of luxury appointed chef Jose Chavez include thenewspapers, fluffy bathrobes, and in-house in the quality of finishes and inclusions.” likes of braised pork belly, red cabbagemovies and Foxtel entertainment. Guests Located in Flinders village, close to the and beetroot with compressed apples,can book at Metro Apartments on Bank southern most tip of the Mornington and char-grilled Wandin quail with quinoa,Place and other Metro Hotels properties Peninsula, Quarters’ accommodation has grapes, smoked almonds and local LCD TVs with 13 cable channels; free wifi verjuice, while mains that may feature on a seasonal list include pan-seared Buxton trout fillet with Dobson potatoes, Mount Zero olives and samphire, and slow-cooked lamb with Mount Zero lentils and natural yoghurt. There is an al a carte menu Monday-Friday with two- and three- course menus at weekends. Breakfasts are served on Sunday mornings from 8am. Oakridge is at 864 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream; phone (03) 9738 9900. www.oakridgewines.com.au. Above: Metro Apartments on Bank Place, Melbourne. Below: Quarters boutique hotel. Opposite page. Mercure Portsea at sunrise. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 115

63 TASTED40 AWARDEDYA R R A VA L L E Y& SOUTHERN VICTORIAExcellent tasting result from these cool-climate regions Coldstream Hills Coombe Farmsouth of Melbourne. Known for chardonnay and pinot Reserve Yarra Valley Yarra Valley Chardonnaynoir, during warmer vintages the region can also produce Chardonnay 2012 HHHHH 2012 HHH1/2superb cabernet and shiraz varietals. A fresh, well-made and perfectly Estery melon/peach bouquet balanced chardonnay, with and similar characters on the brooding savoury aromas and silky smooth palate. It offers tight, well-focused palate that sits promise! $22 nicely in the mouth. Will really Coombe Farm shine with more time. $59.95 Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2SPARKLING Yarrawood Tall Tales Seville Estate The Barber Estery melon/peach bouquet Yarra Valley Sauvignon Yarra Valley Chardonnay and similar characters on the4 TASTED Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 silky smooth palate. It offers2 AWARDED A well-made, savoury style that A big, complex chardonnay, promise! $32 smells of lime cordial and has with a lovely creamy texture, Medhurst Yarra ValleyEasy drinking but maybe nice tropical intensity to the some very good solids, toasty Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2lacking in intensity mainly due palate. Very more-ish. $19 oak, generous stonefruit Savoury and oak dominated forto blanc de blanc styles and characters, simple acid and a now; some subtle stonefruitshort time on lees. Killara Estate Palazzo dash of spice. $22 characters underneath. Nicely Yarra Valley Pinot Grigio textured, with great balance. $30Coombe Farm Nellie 2012 HHH Seville Estate Train Trak SojournMelba Yarra Valley Blanc A linear, savoury style, with Yarra Valley Chardonnay Unwooded Yarra Valleyde Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 ripe pear aromas and flavours, 2012 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2A delicate wine. Good bead, and nice floral touches. $20 Dusty oak, cashews and Toasty lemon curd aromas.nuances of apple tart aromas pineapples on the nose. Soft Balanced creamy palate, with aand an attractive, citrussy palate, Medhurst in the mouth, with very good mix of peach, melon and citruswith hints of stone fruits. $35 Yarra Valley Sauvignon strength of lime and lemon flavours, and a tart finish. $ Blanc 2012 HHH flavours. Young, high in acid Coldstream HillsKillara Estate Lovely fragrances reminiscent but has potential. $33 Yarra Valley ChardonnayYarra Valley Sparkling of spring flowers, with spicy 2012 HHH1/2Cuvee 2009 HHH notes. Flavoursome and juicy in Coldstream Hills Lemon meringue pie of a noseInteresting wine. Toasty the mouth. $24 Reserve Yarra Valley with a floral touch. Nice creamystrawberry nose with hints Chardonnay 2011 HHHH custardy palate and very goodof tropical characters on the St Huberts Yarra Valley Classic chardonnay nose juicy acid to balance. $34.99palate. $27.50 Roussanne 2012 HHH - nicely focused aromas. Yarra View Yarra Valley Complex and a touch funky with Pleasant palate of lifted citrus Chardonnay 2012 HHHOTHER WHITE nice floral elements and lots of and ripe pineapple characters. A big, generous, peachy styleVARIETALS vibrant citrus characters. $30 Well made. Cellar it! $59.95 of chardonnay with plenty of spicy oak and some funky8 TASTED CHARDONNAY Coldstream Hills complexity. $24.995 AWARDED Deer Farm Vineyard Coombe Farm Polo 21 TASTED Yarra Valley Chardonnay Yarra Valley Chardonnay 14 AWARDED 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH An oaky number, with good A more delicate style. NiceNice Victorian sauvignon blancs Excellent class showing that spicy notes and layers of fresh lime cordial characters andwith savoury, mineral, floral southern Victoria is one of the lime and Granny Smith apple- slight chunky acidity, with hintscharacters rather than tropical greatest regions for this variety. like elements. Well made, just of oak. $22overtones and a mixed bag of “This is the best line up of needs more time. $39.95 D’Angelo Ladypinot gris and grigios with some chardonnays that I have seen Chardonnay 2012 HHHpositives, including, according for a while,” said one judge. St Huberts Yarra Valley Tightly wound elegant style,to one judge, “Clean tightness “The 2012 vintage offers great Chardonnay 2012 HHHH with interesting lychee, melonrather than hardness.” wines for cellaring.” Smells of lemon curd. Great characters; almost sauvignon richness and weight to the fresh blanc-like. $25 citrus palate. Good minerality reminiscent of river stones. Very young. Time! 5+ $27D’Angelo Pinot Grigio2012 HHH1/2Vibrant spicy pear nose and tight,attractive, citrus palate, withlayers of interest. An elegant andsophisticated wine. $20116 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

regional tastingROSE St Hubert Yarra Valley Robert Oatley Finisterre Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH Mornington Peninsula Merlot 2010 HHH2 TASTED A richer generous style with Pinot Noir 2011 HHH Rich heady aromas and plush1 AWARDED a dark dusty nose showing A juicy, fresh, elegant, light generous palate that closes with touches of tar and bright red weight, with soft red berry fruits fine tannins. Needs food. $34.99Medhurst Yarra Valley fruit flavours underpinned with and drying tannins. $36.99Rosé 2012 HHH chocolaty notes. $33 SHIRAZ“As a rose should be,” said Coldstream Hills Deerone judge. A clean, lean and Coombe Farm Farm Vineyard Yarra Valley 6 TASTEDpretty wine, with gorgeous Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2012 HHH 3 AWARDEDsalmon hues. $24 2012 HHHH Heady, confectionery, A combination of raspberry and raspberry aromas. Silky “A small group of nice mid-PINOT NOIR blackberry aromas. Attractive strawberry/rhubarb palate and weight, finely grained tannin light bodied sweet dark greenish tannins. $39.95 wines worth seeking out,”16 TASTED raspberry palate with some said one judge.10 AWARDED herbal notes. $32 OTHER RED Seville Estate Old Vine VARIETALS YarrawoodMixed results here. “Some Reserve Yarra Valley & BLENDS Tall Tales Yarra Valleyfantastic 2012s but the 2011s Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHHHhave hard tannins which is Lovely nose - smells of 5 TASTED Rich, earthy and dense onunfortunate. The best wines rosemary and lavender, 4 AWARDED the nose, and a long, vibrant,are very smart and can be and has defined raspberry cherry palate - juicy andput down. “The structure and flavours underpinned by herbal “Good quality fruit obvious youthful, with fine firm tanninsweight of wines here is the elements and fine tannins. $75 here and picked at the right and good spiciness. $26best I have seen from any Robert Oatley Yarra Valley time offering good quaffers,”vintage,”said one judge. Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 according to one judge. D’Angelo Ben’s Interesting wine. Officer Shiraz 2010 HHHColdstream Hills Confectionery sweet fruit nose Coombe Farm Nice cool climate style – veryYarra Valley Pinot Noir and subtle savoury characters Nellie Melba Yarra Valley elegant; lots of dark plums2012 HHHHH on the silky-smooth palate. Merlot 2012 HHH underpinned by meaty notes. $25Ripe raspberry aromas with Still a baby. $23.99 Sweet rich Ribena aromas andfloral/violet lift. The lovely palate a Christmas cake palate. Juicy Train Trak Yarra Valleyis layered and complex and Tudor Yarra Valley acid holding it all together. $25 Shiraz 2011 HHHbeautifully soft in the mouth. Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Red fruits on the nose.Great length. Needs more time Nice plummy, toasty aromas and Coombe Farm Nellie Melba Flavours of Christmas puddingto evolve. $34.99 generous palate, with dark berry Yarra Valley Cabernet and dark cherries, with a lovely fruit and fine firm tannins. $12 Merlot 2012 HHH dash of pepper. $26Coldstream Hills Classic cassis fragrances, veryEsplanade Yarra Valley ripe sweet raspberry flavours SWEET WHITESPinot Noir 2012 HHHHH and long, lingering, savouryRosehip and plums on the tannins. $32 1 TASTEDnose with good toasty oak to 1 AWARDEDbalance. Palate has a ripe red Killara Estate Palazzocore of fruit with spicy aniseed Yarra Valley Sangiovese St Huberts Late Harvestnotes and nice earthiness. 2011 HHH Viognier 2012 HHHHExcellent flavour length. $49.95 Plumy aromas with a splash of Very luscious lifted lychee tar. Very approachable palate; aromas and very attractiveSt Hubert The Stag good mouthful of blackberry ripe apricot flavours layeredYarra Valley Pinot Noir flavours. $20 with caramel elements and2012 HHHH balancing acidity. $30Fresh bright aromas with goodspicy lift. Strawberries andraspberries fill the mouth withflavour. Supported by eleganttannins. $24 JUDGESRob Dolan Mark O’Callaghan Victoria SharplesKnown as “Sticks”, Winemaker for Oatley Founder & ManagingRob Dolan has been a Wines (Victoria). Former Director, The Wine Station,winemaker for 20 years, winemaker/manager Melbourne. Senior judgein the Coonawarra, for Yarra Burn Winery. at the International WineHunter and Yarra Valleys. Completed the Evans Challenge UK since 2006.He is general manager Tutorial in 2007. Panel Judge at International Coolof Sticks Yarra Valley chairman of the Victorian Climate Show Red Hill, Cairnsand Brand New Vintage Wine Show. Associate Wine Show & FederationLtd. Regular judge at judge at the Adelaide and Square Wine Showcase.Victorian wine shows. National wine shows. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 117

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINRIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSWDINE OVERLOOKING maybe home-made potato gnocchi tossed with a barbecue and a complimentaryTHE MURRAY with chicken, roast pumpkin and spinach. welcome hamper containing local Italian- The dinner menu offers dishes, including style biscuits, local honey and other treats.CERES restaurant is an Echuca eatery double-roasted duck on creamy mash with Rates start from around $140 per night. Thethat has maintained its following despite sauteed spinach and cherry jus, grilled Clarenton is at 22 Palla St, Griffith; phonea change of venue. After four years of fish of the day served on sauteed spinach (02) 6962 5284. [email protected] in the old Kickhams flour mill in with Kipfler potato chips and sauce viergethe heart of the Echuca CBD, the eatery or dry-aged Gunbower steaks served CELEBRATE THE SEASONmoved to a new location in Echuca’s tourist with blackened broccoli, scallop potatoprecinct in 2011. The building had been and a choice of mustards. Ceres is open SPRING is one of the most beautiful times ofthe town hall and later a chemist’s shop. 10am-late Monday to Friday and 9am-late year at Trentham Estate on the banks of theThe new venue offers sidewalk dining on weekends. You’ll find it at 554 High St, Murray River. Guests can also lunch in thealong with a private dining area upstairs Echuca; phone (03) 5482 5599. restaurant, where chef Dag Demarkow mansfeaturing a large balcony overlooking theMurray River, making it the perfect spotfor that special occasion or party. Themenu has its roots in the Mediterraneanand has been described as “versatile”by The Age Good Food Guide. “Ceresrestaurant’s food has definite roots in theMediterranean region of the world andwe pride ourselves on using the freshestof ingredients sourced as locally aspossible, and the wine list reflects thisethos as well, with the best of the localsoffered by the glass along with greatdrops from further afield the atmosphere JUST A STROLL FROM the pans, or try the fully catered barbecues.is relaxed and always alive with a huge THE CAFE STRIP There is no entry fee but book for lunch onlocal following,” the eatery’s website says. (03) 5024 8888. The cellar door is open sevenOpen seven days a week for lunch and THE Clarenton is a new apartment-style days 9.30am-5pm; the restaurant for lunchdinner, Ceres also boasts of the quality accommodation option tucked away in Tuesday-Sunday from noon and the fullyof its breakfasts. Lunch features a range the quiet suburbs of Griffith but just a catered barbecues Thursday-Sunday fromof tapas, or choices like salt and pepper short walk from the cafes and restaurants noon. Trentham Estate Winery is on Sturt Hwy,calamari with candied chilli, rocket and of bustling Banna Ave. An adjunct to the Trentham Cliffs, near Gol Gol; phone (03)Spanish onion served with garlic aioli, or home of owners Clare and Tony Cunial, The 5024 8888. www.trenthamestate.com.au. Clarenton is a comfortable one-bedroom self-contained apartment that also has a FROLIC AT THE FESTIVAL double fold-out sofa in the lounge room, making it ideal for couples or small groups. THE ANNUAL Riverland Food and Wine There are full kitchen and laundry facilities, Festival is constantly looking at ways to make and private car parking, along with an its event bigger and better. The festival is outdoor swimming pool. It has been set up held over the third weekend in October with a with both business and leisure guests in program of events that showcase several local mind, with free wifi and broadband internet wineries and a micro-brewery. Visitors are access, as well as Foxtel and digital TV invited to celebrate the Riverland’s rich wine channels, airconditioning and ceiling fans, and food culture at the main event on the banks along with comfy bathrobes. There is an of the Murray River in Berri on October 19. For outdoor gazebo perfect for picnics, along details see www.riverlandwineandfood.com/118 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

travelbriefsOFF THE BEATEN TRACK your list. Talented young winemaker Sam Cajun chicken fillet on garden salad with Brewer has taken control of Yarran Wines Dijon dressing. Or warm melting brie,WHILE De Bortoli, Westend Estate and following the death of his father John and toasted rye bread, chopped walnuts andMcWilliam’s operate the best-known and he brings experience of vintages in China fruit compote, or a selection of tapas tomost visited cellar doors in the Riverina and the US, as well as having worked share. Mains may feature crispy confitregion, there are several less high-profile for De Bortoli. The Yarran cellar door duck leg and pork belly with prunes,operations well worth visiting. Names like overlooks the vines and offers wines that Scotch fillet with green peppercorn sauceYarran Wines and Berton Vineyards, both are of excellent quality, while Berton - with or barramundi topped with sea scallops.outside Yenda, are well worth putting on modern art on its walls - has a massive All mains are served with potato mash range at very reasonable prices. Yarran is and baby garlic spinach. French fries and at 178 Myall Park Rd, Yenda; phone (02) garden salads are available on request. 6968 1125, while Berton is at Mirrool Ave, Yenda; phone (02) 6968 1600. Both are A short wine list features labels from the open Monday-Saturday. two local wineries - Lillypilly Estate and Meanwhile, Griffith has a wide range of Toorak Winery - along with some interstate eateries; and not just Italian, although La offerings and there is a blackboard Scala, Vita’s and Belvedere all offer good offering French imports and other special Mediterranean fare with Il Corso and A bottles. If you want to bring something Tavola specialising in pizzas. Cafe Deli from your cellar or bottle you’ve picked and Meie Amici are popular coffee spots, up at a local cellar door, corkage is just while Bar 188 has good tapas, Novus (in $7. Pages on Pine is at 119a Pine Ave, the old Michelin building) has modern Leeton; phone (02) 6953 7300. Dinner is Australian fare and Tango’s Bar and Grill served Wednesday-Saturday and lunch is a newcomer in the former The Clock on Fridays only. A six-course degustation building. Ethnic options are many, with dinner for $80 per head is also available if Chinese, Thai and Indian restaurants in booked in advance. While in Leeton also abundance, while the Victoria Hotel, on make sure to check out the Art Deco Roxy Banna Ave, is probably the most popular Theatre in town and the historic Hydro hotel and offers a good range of local Hotel as well at the Toorak and Lillypilly wines. Don’t miss out on the Griffith cellar doors. Rotary Markets on Sunday mornings at 20-24 Jondaryan Ave for quality local fruit Left: McWilliam’s tasting room, barrel shed and vegetables, garden furniture, bread, and entrance. cakes and slices, fresh flowers, cheese, Right: Lilypilly Estate cellar door. olive oil and more. Opposite page. Ceres Echuca terrace and exterior. RELAX IN THE RIVERINA PAGES on Pine, a comfortable little Leeton restaurant, has established itself as a firm favourite with Riverina residents over the past four years. It is run by husband-and- wife team Eric and Vanessa Pages - the chef having originally worked in Griffith’s much-lamented Michelin restaurant and his wife running front of house. The menu changes periodically, reliant on the availability of fresh, local ingredients and many small towns would kill for a restaurant of this quality. Starters include September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 119

121 TASTED64 AWARDEDRIVER REGIONSThis is where you will find some of Australia’s greatest Bassham Riverland Lindeman’s Bin 95value wines, but also some that will comfortably Fiano 2012 HHH Sauvignon Blanccompete with the best quaffers from across Australia. Very drinkable, with crisp, fresh 2012 HHH1/2As a warm-climate region, the best from here tend to and well-handled fruit layered High acid style, with a pungent,be from the chardonnay category along with alternative with musky, nutty elements. $18 herbaceous bouquet and avarietals, both red and white. It goes without saying that 919 Petit Manseng balance of rose petal andsweet whites and fortifieds from here are also a force 2012 HHH lychee-like flavours. $9.99to be reckoned with. Toasty age notes to the honeyed/citrus nose, with CHARDONNAY similar flavours. Crisp acid structure. $25 21 TASTED 13 AWARDEDSPARKLING Robinvale Demeter SAUVIGNON A surprisingly good class, Kerner Australia Riesling BLANC & BLENDS according to the judges.3 TASTED 2008 HHHHH “It shows that the river regions1 AWARDED Interesting aged kero/honeyed 4 TASTED can produce consistently characters evident on the nose 3 AWARDED high quality, mid-weightGenerally a small and simple lot, and intensely spicy, toasty, chardonnays for an outstandingwith just one nice lunch sparkler! honeyed palate. A ”talking Not known for this variety, the value price,” said one judge. point” wine. An excellent river regions have surprised example of an aged riesling. $20 with some nicely balanced, YellowTail Australia 919 Vermentino quaffing varietals offering great Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH value for money. A nicely integrated, oaky, Complex nutty/citrus aromas, Australian style of chardonnay. with creamy honeyed notes. Citrus aromas push through the Pleasant palate - warming and oak and the long palate offers creamy in the mouth, with a lovely mouthful of oak and nicely integrated flavours. $25 honeyed tropical/citrus fruit flavours. $9Charisma South Australia Whistling Kite Biodynamic Little Birdwood Trails End ChardonnayBlanc de Blanc NV HHH Petit Manseng 2011 HHHH Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHH1/2Lifted, sweet citrus nose with Flinty floral notes to the honey 2012 HHH1/2 A very attractive style, withnice yeasty notes. Attractive sweet citrus nose. Well-made Lightly perfumed nose, with obvious aged characterscitrus palate, with a hint of palate of vibrant lime fruit, grassy elements. Slightly smoky developing. It’s all toasty andspice. $7.90 some residual sugar and crisp lemon/tropical flavours. Good honeyed on the nose, with a acidity. $25 acid spine. True to style. $4.99 well-constructed palate of freshOTHER WHITE South Point Estate Banrock Station fruit characters mingling withVARIETALS Pinot Grigio 2012 HHH Australia Sauvignon Blanc toasty age. $10& BLENDS Subtle floral tones on the nose. 2012 HHH1/2 Yarran Chardonnay Lean apple/melon palate. Good Good clean, crisp style smelling 2012 HHHH11 TASTED acid/sugar balance. $4.99 of cut grass and asparagus. “A well made wine”. Melons7 AWARDED Shot in the Dark Traminer Good hit of varietal fruit on the and lemons on the nose, with Riesling 2012 HHH long, balanced palate. $5.89 an oak edge. Lovely depth andAn excellent example of a Lifted perfumed bouquet. complexity of nutty oak andriesling and a few quality Residual sugar evident on the varietal fruit flavours. $14Mediterranean varietals. lush, lychee/toffee palate. True De Bortoli Sacred Hill to style. $9.99 Australia Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 The nose is a fruit bomb of melons and citrus. Crisp in the mouth, with light tropical flavours and some nuttiness. $5120 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

regional tasting Moon Harvest Chardonnay 2012 HHH A different style. Spicy, cooked fruit nose and generous, spicy flavours, with creamy oak support. $9.50 Bassham Riverland Whistling Kite Biodynamic Lagrein 2012 HHHHH Montepulciano An excellent dark, intensely 2012 HHHH1/2 purple wine, with plenty going Lifted, dense, black cherryElmfield Chardonnay Whistling Kite Biodynamic on - rich varietal fruit, warming aromas, with an attractive,2012 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 HHH alcohol and hint of confectionery savoury/meaty thread. TheA lift of honeysuckle on the Buttery peach bouquet and characters. Silky smooth in the beautifully balanced palate isnose and balanced, creamy creamy fruit palate, with some mouth with excellent balance rich with dark, savoury, fruitpalate, with good citrussy nuttiness and nice mineral and structure. 3-5 $20 flavours. Finishes soft. $30flavours and nice oaky line. $25 919 Tempranillobackbone. $3.99 919 Durif 2010 HHHHH 2010 HHHH1/2 McWilliams Inheritance Deep crimson hues, with Dark, brooding, earthy nose,Claire Creek South Chardonnay 2011 HHH luscious preserved fruit aromas with layers of cherries andEastern Australia A “picnic style”, with upfront showing a touch of licorice and spices. Big, rich,tannic palateChardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 citrus/stonefruit aromas and peppery overtones. Big tannic - typical of the variety, withSubtle peach aromas, with flavours. Good oak balance. $5 palate offering a mouthful of delicious mouthfilling flavours.honeyed notes and bright plums, chocolate and spice. Great food wine. $40tropical fruit flavour seamlessly Hardys Crest South Great with a steak! $50 Banrock Station Whiteintegrated with the oak. $5.99 Eastern Australia Australia Shiraz RoséLindeman’s Bin 65 Chardonnay 2011 HHH Bassham Riverland 2012 HHHHChardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Zesty citrus nose, with light Montepulciano Sherbety rose petal and redA nose of peach, citrus and light toasty notes and good depth 2012 HHHH1/2 berry aromas which carry onoak, with some nicely balanced, of varietal flavours. Ageing Inky, purple wine with a to the nicely balanced palate,peachy/woody flavours on the nicely. $13 lovely mix of briary fruit and with gentle acid balancing thelong, firm palate. $9.99 meaty aromas. Fairly tight, sweetness. $5.89Cock + Bull South Australia OTHER RED complex and richly flavoured 30 Mile Durif 2012 HHHHChardonnay 2012 HHH VARIETALS palate offering great cellaring A meaty, tannic style, with aA well constructed chardonnay, & BLENDS potential. $20 great nose of dark fruits withwith a buttery, floral nose and a 919 Sangiovese chocolaty notes. A big, pure,warm, creamy palate. $6.90 17 TASTED 2012 HHHH1/2 varietal palate with woodyJacob’s Creek 11 AWARDED An excellent Italian style, with undertones. $9.99Chardonnay 2012 HHH savoury nose and hint of herbal/ 919 TourigaPleasant quaffer, with a nose of A good flight of interesting sour cherry aromas following Nacional 2011 HHHHlychees and toast. Slightly sweet varietals. “Mediterranean through to the savoury palate Spicy, floral fragrances; apalate; soft and simple. $9 varieties show great promise with meaty undertones. “Very dash of white pepper. Elegant for these warm-climate river moreish!” $30 fruit-driven palate, some regions,” said one judge. anise and licorice characters Watch out in the future for developing. $38 Montepulciano, Lagrein and Durif wines. JUDGESEric Semmler Rod Hooper Mark ThwaitesProprietor of 919 Wine Chief winemaker/ Winemaker for LindemansCompany. Formerly consultant Beelgara Wines, Karadoc (Victoria).winemaker for the Hardy Wine Wines. Also winemaker Previously winemakerCompany. Previously with for Macaw Creek Wines. for Australian Vintage inBrown Brothers and Auldstone Judge at the national Buronga (NSW). VintagedCellars. Has spent eight years small winemakers wine in McLaren Vale andas fortified winemaker for show, Cowra & Griffith currently completingHardys. Associate judge at wine shows. AWAC Advanced WineRutherglen, McLaren Vale and Assessment Course.Riverland shows. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 121

RIVER REGIONS CABERNET Angove Long Row BLENDS South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 8 TASTED A big tannic number, with dark, inky, berry fruits and some 4 AWARDED sweet and sour characters, with a long, lingering finish. $8 “Mixed bag with some goodWhistling Kite Biodynamic examples of cabernet blends”, Yellow Tail AustraliaPetit Verdot 2010 HHH1/2 said one judge. “The best Cabernet SauvignonA rich, stylish red - “It’s all there”, offered good fruit and showed 2012 HHHsaid one judge. Funky red berry harmonious blending”. Fresh, vibrant and seamlesslyfruit, mocha/vanilla oak, fine The others were borderline. balanced, with brambly fruit andtannins and earthy notes. $30 lifted eucalypt elements. $9Bassham RiverlandGraciano 2012 HHH Little Birdwood Cabernet 30 Mile CabernetAn elegant, acid-driven style, Shiraz Merlot 2012 HHH Sauvignon 2012 HHHwith nice array of dark fruit and Leafy, minty, red fruit bouquet. A ripe but approachable style,intriguing floral notes. $20 Acid a tad dominant on the with excellent varietal expression luscious, fruit cake palate. $4.99 and tight tannins. $9.99MERLOT & BLENDS Banrock Station Psyche Reserve Australia Cabernet Australia Cabernet9 TASTED Merlot 2012 HHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH Vibrant, perfumed, minty nose Ripe red fruit predominate here,3 AWARDED and sweet, red, jubey palate with some residual sugar and balanced by the acid. $5.89 soft tannins. Drink now. $19.99Hit and miss here - as this variety Shot in the Dark Cabernetis in many regions. However a Shiraz 2012 HHHH CABERNET SHIRAZ & BLENDSfew “drink now” quaffers offered Licorice and caramel characters SAUVIGNONhere for a great price. evident on the nose, and a 8 TASTED palate that delivers chocolate 12 TASTED 2 AWARDEDYellow Tail Australia cake/raisined flavours. Easy 7 AWARDED Apart from a couple ofMerlot 2012 HHH1/2 style. $9.99 outstanding wines, this was aBright,confectionery fruit Lindeman’s Bin 45 Cabernet Some nice examples here disappointing class. The successaromas, with a light menthol Sangiovese 2012 HHHH tending to come from the older of this blend depends onlift and soft, simple, sweet fruit A very more-ish wine, with an vintages of 2010 and earlier. whether producers have a planpalate. Good food wine. $9 awesome perfumed, dried mint, “Still showing good fruit and to source good fruit or make it red berry nose and persistent vibrancy,” noted one judge. as an afterthought!Zilzie Wines Selection 23 cherry berry palate, with anMerlot 2012 HHH1/2 attractive savoury edge. $9.99 Gledhill Cabernet Shot in the Dark ShirazLeafy fragrant nose, with Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 Petite Sirah 2012 HHHHHmenthol notes. Vibrant mulberry Spices, mocha and vanilla on A very fine and more-ish savourypalate, with slight smoky wood. the nose, with subtle menthol style that’s a lovely combinationClassy and refined! $11 notes. Very lively tannic palate of vibrant black fruits, good oak, loaded with intense dark tight mouthpuckering tannins,Lindeman’s Bin 40 raisined fruit flavours and nicely preserved meat characters and aMerlot 2012 HHH warming alcohol. $20 dash of spice and pepper. $9.99Red berry bouquet; somespice and “wet clay” notes. Deen De Bortoli VatInteresting palate - great acid 9 Australia Cabernetline. “More-ish!” $9.99 Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Bushland aromas, with STAR RATINGS  interesting dry gum leaf-like characters and attractive,Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of dark, minty fruit flavours on aexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. vibrantly fresh palate. $11All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peer Australian Legend Winesclasses by three judges. Infamous CabernetCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Sauvignon 2009 HHHHa major mail-order business. Very refined and definitely veryCD Cellar door price. much alive, with dark prune,CDO Cellar door only. cassis and sweet chocolate andSO Sold out. caramel characters, and tight$N/A Price not available at time of printing. tannin length. $15 Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au122 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

regional tasting919 Latin Collection FORTIFIEDRhumba ShirazDurif 2012 HHHH1/2 6 TASTEDDeep crimson wine, with a 6 AWARDEDbeautiful bright berry bouquetand a long, rich, seamlessly Now we are talking! This isbalanced, sour cherry-like where warm areas come intopalate, with some spice, their own, but it still requirespepper and soy-like notes. $18 good winemaking and an understanding of the styles.SHIRAZ 919 Muscat NV HHHHH19 TASTED A very drinkable Aussie style of7 AWARDED fortified. Gorgeous Christmas cake and citrus rind-like aromas,The judges were disappointed! and beautifully balanced and“We should be able to produce complex brown treacle richnessbetter shiraz than this in these on the palate. $39warm regions. Instead wesaw a lack of vibrancy, varietal 919 Tawny NV HHHH1/2expression and structure.” Nose is a lovely mix of honeyed citrus, nutty rancio,Yellow Tail Australia spices, caramel and raisinedShiraz 2012 HHHH characters. Treacley in theA big, full style, with nice mouth, with good spirit. Long,intensity of tarry fruit, good balanced and complex. $28oak/tannin balance and subtlepeppery, mocha and earthy 919 Palominoelements. $9 Apera NV HHHH1/2 Smells of the sea, withYarran Shiraz 2012 HHH elements of nuts andFull, firm and long, with rich apples, and showing a greatblueberry fruit, soft floral notes persistence of honeyed apple,and subtle vanilla oak. $14 nut and oyster flavours, with good flor expression. $29919 Shiraz 2011 HHH 919 TourigaDeep purple wine loaded Nacional 2009 HHHH1/2with plum, dark cherry and A lovely old nutty raisinedspicy characters on nose and number that is true to style,palate. $39 with its dark mocha andWyndham Estate Bin 555 caramel aromas, and deliciousSouth Eastern Australia toffee elements on the savouryShiraz 2010 HHH palate. $50Vibrant, flavoursome and very Robinvale Reservemoreish, with plum, berry, spice Australia Liqueur 2003and earthy characters. $10.42 (500ml) HHHHSt Anne’s Shiraz 2010 HHH A dark, spirituous, tannicAstringent, tannic style, with style smelling of raisins andintense tarry red fruit and some chocolate, and leading to a lushsmoky elements. $19.50 palate with treacle/caramel-like flavours. $20Psyche Reserve Australia Starcevich WinesShiraz 2008 HHH Aged Tawny NV HHHBig and rich, with spicy licorice A young style layered withnose and generous fruit cake- good fruit expression; layeredlike palate, with nice aged with nutty and chocolatynotes. $10 characters. $25Australia Legend WinesNotorious Shiraz 2008 HHHSmells of plums with prune-likenotes, which follows through tothe savoury, tannic palate. $15 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 123

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINOTAGO (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley)FINE FARE WITH to the hotel’s facilities. “Hilton Lakeside unlimited heli ski runs and if the weather getsAN ITALIAN TWIST Residences are stunning rooms that will moody SLHS will set guests up with golfing attract discerning guests who seek greater experiences, bungy jumping or vineyard tours.QUEENSTOWN has a new dining favourite freedom,” said Hilton Queenstown general It’s a rockstar style of skiing with unlimited runs- Italian bistro Sasso, which means stone in manager Andrew Nisbet. “The residences during daylight hours over 60 runs and 11Italian. Sasso is located in historic McNeill’s complement the existing Hilton Queenstown different mountain ranges. Accommodationcottage, just a few steps from the Lake facilities beautifully and allow us to offer even for both packages is in five-star luxury hotels,Wakatipu shore and executive chef Sal more options to visitors of Kawarau Village.” private lodges with personal chefs or on theGrant and his team offer Italian-inspired Most apartments have panoramic views Pacific Jemm luxury yacht on Lake Wakatipu.cuisine that combines traditional and overlooking Lake Wakatipu and guests Everything except alcohol is included, withinnovative elements. An award-winning can unwind in a separate living room. The food, accommodation, heli skiing, guides andchef, Grant is keen to expose diners to new lounge suites feature gas fireplace and living more. The Unlimited Package is designed fortaste experiences, including fresh burrata, room facilities include a large flat-screen the individual heli skier or heli skiing couplean Italian cheese made from mozzarella and television, iPod dock and DVD and CD wanting to join a group while the Privatecream, which he char grills with pumpkin, player. Some residences have an additional Package is for groups of four or more peoplethyme and balsamic vinegar to create one television in the master bedroom. The fully- who want to keep to themselves and don’tof eight starters on the menu. Another equipped kitchens include a full-size fridge- want to share with a group. Both Unlimitedfavourite includes timpano pasta, a baked freezer, microwave and oven, and most and Private Packages run from June 30dish that contains mozzarella, aromatic have a dishwasher. Guests can entertain to September 30 annually. The Unlimitedvegetables, meatballs, salami and other at the dining room table, enjoying a meal Package starts from $7500 per person andgourmet morsels, while winter saw the prepared in their own kitchen, or delivered the Private Package from $13,499 per person.arrival on the menu of Osso Buco di Cervo, from in-room dining or one of the several SLHS is at 20 Athol St, Queenstown; phonelocal venison slowly braised in red wine restaurants on site. Hilton Queenstown +64 3 442 6222 or 39 Helwick St, Wanaka;and served on a bed of soft polenta with is at Kawarau Village, 79 Peninsula Rd, phone +64 3 443 6410. www.heliskinz.com.shaved Manchego. Sasso is the creation Queenstown; phone +64 3 450 9400.of two local businessmen, Mark Rose and www.queenstownhilton.co.nz.David Matthews, who felt Queenstownwas missing a chic modern Italian diningoption. The historic stone cottage hasundergone a $500,000 refurbishmentwhich resulted in solid wood bar andmarble counters sourced in Italy, along withcrystal light fittings, while the state-of-the-artkitchen offers an open servery. There is aMediterranean outdoor courtyard and openfire. The wine list focuses on local pinot noirand a selection of Italian imports. You’ll findit at 14/16 Church St, Queenstown; phone+64 3 409 0994. It is open from 4pm daily.LAKESIDE LOCATION DROP IN FOR TEE OFF IN STYLE A SPOT OF SKIINGHILTON Queenstown recently opened CENTRAL Otago’s multi-award-winningthe doors to a selection of new lakeside THERE is still time to take advantage of Millbrook Resort recently celebrated its 20thapartments. Hilton Lakeside Residences, Southern Lakes Heli Ski’s new all-inclusive birthday and the luxury golf and lifestyle resortwhich have increased the hotel’s inventory week-long unlimited heli skiing packages is now the largest on the South Island. Knownto 220 rooms, are 42 studio, one- and for the 2013 New Zealand ski season - a as one of New Zealand’s most picturesquetwo-bedroom suites with apartment- perfect holiday option alongside a few days golf resorts, Millbrook is still privately ownedstyle facilities. The residences offer the of wine tasting. The new Unlimited Package by the Japanese Ishii family, who created theindependence and flexibility of self- and Private Package both allow guests development in 1993. When the resort firstcontained accommodation but with access opened in 1993, there was no health and124 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

travelbriefsfitness centre, swimming pool or spa, the golf skills of our winemakers, as well as providing LUXURY NEAR THE ACTIONshop was housed in what is now the Hole in a unique food and wine experience for locals,”One bar, it boasted an 18-hole championship he said. The new tasting room highlights local THE Rees Hotel, one of Queenstown’scourse designed by Sir Bob Charles and produce, including fresh meats, cheeses and favourite luxury hostelries, is a perfectaccommodationwasinasmallnumberofvillas. other deli items such as fresh pasta made choice for those who want peace and daily, and ingredients designed to help “home quiet while having the action close by. Fast forward to 2013 and now Millbrook has foodies” prepare dishes similar to those on With dramatic lake and mountain views,147hotelrooms,multi-million-dollarhomesand offer at the winery. A Taste of Gibbston Valley the five-star boutique hotel is just a strolla range of neighbourhood “clusters” scattered is at 8 Buckingham St, Arrowtown, and is open away from Queenstown’s central precinct.around the existing and newly-developed 7am-5pm for breakfast and lunch, while the The Rees has 60 hotel rooms and 90areas bordering the new 27-hole course deli and wine tasting facility remains open apartments, all with private balconies.(the original course has been re-configured until 6pm; phone +64 3 409 8517. www. The hotel’s restaurant boasts gourmetand an additional nine holes added. It has a gibbstonvalleynz.com/arrowtown-expansion. cuisine, including an extensive winepurpose-built driving range and a number ofeateries, including the signature The Millhousefine dining restaurant and Kobe CuisineJapanese restaurant. The Spa at Millbrook wasrecently named best luxury wellness spa forAustralasia and Oceania in the World LuxuryHotel Awards. The facility now has 13 treatmentrooms, pre- and post-treatment relaxationrooms and outdoor areas. “The team here isextremely passionate about what we do andwinning this award is a tribute to everyone whois part of delivering the guest experience,”said spa manager Becky Roberts. MillbrookResort is on Malaghans Rd, Arrowtown; phone+64 3 441 7000. www.millbrook.co.nz.TASTING TIMES SWEET SUCCESS cellar. It also provides a spa treatment room, gymnasium, conference room, skiAFTER just three months of operation, THERE is something buzzing on the roof of lockers, private jetty, mountain bikes,Gibbston Valley Winery has relocated its the Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, where courtesy shuttle and free wifi. True SouthArrowtown Tasting Room to larger premises the hotel’s 70,000 bees are producing Dining restaurant specialises in dishesnext door. The new facility, called A Taste of honey from rooftop beehives. The bees based strongly on local produce andGibbston Valley, is designed to encompass collect pollen from the Novotel’s rose has a menu that changes monthly, whileall elements of “good living” - from Gibbston garden and the neighbouring Queenstown the Bordeau (meaning next to the water)Valley wines to Mediterranean and artisan- Gardens, and general manager Jim Moore Wine Lounge has local and importedstyle food, and products from Central said installing the beehives was the French wines on offer, including a wideOtago. It combines deli, cafe and cellar hotel’s latest commitment to sustainable range of Bordeaux vintages. The hoteldoor experiences. The winery branched out hospitality and Accor’s global sustainability was recently awarded a TripAdvisorfrom its Gibbston Valley home in December program, Planet 21. As part of its Planet Certificate of Excellence award, which2012 to open a boutique wine tasting room in 21 commitment, the Novotel undertakes is given only to establishments thatArrowtown’s high street, catering for visitors several environmental practices, including consistently achieve outstanding travellerwho flock to the historic township. Gibbston recycling garden green waste and using low reviews on TripAdvisor. The Rees is atValley Winery CEO Greg Hunt said he was energy lighting in guest rooms. Homemade 377 Frankton Rd, Queenstown; phone“delighted” with the success of The Tasting honey was the next step and it is available +64 3 450 1100. www.therees.co.nz.Room. “There’s nothing quite like what we’ve for hotel guests to enjoy during breakfastdone for the increasing number of people who at Elements Restaurant as well as being Above: The Rees Hotel.call Arrowtown ‘home’, and it will serve the given as a gift to VIP guests. The hotel is Opposite page.dual purpose of helping to educate visitors at Earl St, Queenstown; phone +64 3 442 Left: Southern Lakes Heli Skiing.about our region’s award-winning wine and the 7750. www.novotel.com. Right: Sasso interior and diners. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 125

146 TASTED Central Otago & Waitaki Valley84 AWARDEDOTA G ODominated by Central Otago but also covering wines RIESLING Valli Old Vinefrom North Otago (the Waitaki Valley), the tasting Riesling 2012 HHH1/2featured 80 pinot noirs which accounted for over half 18 TASTED Minerally, with fresh, strongthe total entry. The 2011 pinot noirs, from an unusually 12 AWARDED lemon/lime flavours and a sliverwarm, wet growing season, were outshone by those of sweetness balanced by goodfrom the much lower-yielding 2010 vintage and the A very solid class, with lots acid spine. Lively, youthful wine,favourably sunny, warm and dry autumn of 2012. Among of attractively scented, fresh, well worth cellaring. (Fromthe white wines, many of the pinot gris lacked depth, but lively wines and several vines planted at Alexandra inthe panel found richer pickings among the rieslings. promising 2012s that should 1981.) $32 (A, UK, US) unfold gracefully over the next Amisfield Dry RieslingPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. few years. 2012 HHHWines available in export markets are shown as Ripely scented, fleshy, dry style(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Domain Road with very good depth of citrusy Vineyard Duffers Creek flavours, but two judges notedSPARKLING Quartz Reef Riesling 2012 HHHH a slightly “hard” finish. $30 Methode Traditionnelle Floral and lively, with excellent Domain Road Vineyard6 TASTED Rosé NV HHH1/2 depth of lemon, apple and lime The Water Race Riesling5 AWARDED Attractive, coppery pink. flavours, and a gently sweet 2012 HHH Scented and lively, with a fine (19g/litre of residual sugar), crisp, Attractively scented, withA small but strong class of “bead”, crisp, vigorous, yeasty finely balanced finish. $25 (A) strong, vibrant, citrusy flavours,cool-climate wines, with most flavours and a dryish, smooth a minerally streak and a firm,of the entries showing good finish. $37 (A, US) Peregrine Rastaburn dry finish. $25 (A, UK)depth, crispness and vivacity. Quartz Reef Central Otago Riesling Kalex Central Otago Methode Traditionnelle 2010 HHHH Riesling 2012 HHH Brut NV HHH1/2 Fragrant, slightly toasty Pale and light, with citrusy, Attractively scented blend of bouquet, showing some appley flavours and an off-dry, pinot noir (52 per cent) and bottle-aged complexity. Citrusy, crisp finish. One judge rated it chardonnay (48 per cent), lees- medium-sweet flavours, very highly. $29 aged for two years. Fresh and showing excellent vigour Ostler Lakeside Vines lively, with citrusy aromas and and depth. Generous wine, Waitaki Valley Riesling flavours, bready notes adding a maturing gracefully. $23 2012 HHH touch of complexity, and good Pale, very youthful, medium- length. $32 (A, UK, US) Aurum Central Otago dry style, with fresh, strong Riesling 2008 HHH1/2 lemon/apple flavours andAkarua Rosé Akarua Brut NV HHH Lemon-scented. Dryish wine, mouth-watering acidity. TightlyBrut NV HHHH1/2 Pale, crisp and lively, with strong, citrusy, slightly structured and well worthPale pink, vivacious blend of Bannockburn blend of pinot noir toasty flavours and a very crisp cellaring. $29.90 (A, UK, US)pinot noir (74 per cent) and (71 per cent) and chardonnay finish. $22 Peregrine Central Otagochardonnay (26 per cent), (29 per cent), lees-aged for Riesling 2009 HHHgrown at Bannockburn and a minimum of 18 months. Ceres Full Circle Fleshy, citrusy style, withlees-aged for at least 18 Fresh, moderate complex style, Central Otago Riesling moderately developed flavoursmonths. Vigorous and complex, showing good length. $32 (A, UK) 2012 HHH1/2 and a dry, tangy finish.with excellent drive, delicacy Aurum Blanc de Blancs Lemon-scented, single-vineyard Maturing very solidly. $23and harmony. $36 (A, UK) NV HHH Bannockburn wine, full-bodied, Rockburn Tigermoth Light and lively, chardonnay- with very good depth of crisp, Riesling 2012 HHH based style, lees-aged for two lively, citrusy flavours and an Crisp, medium-sweet style, years. Citrusy, slightly appley off-dry finish. $23 still very youthful, with low flavours woven with crisp alcohol (8.5 per cent/vol) and acidity and a touch of yeast- Terra Sancta Estate tight, appley flavours. “German derived complexity. $34 Miro’s Block Dry Riesling style”, noted one judge. $33 2011 HHH1/2 Pale lemon/green, with a slightly toasty bouquet. Full- flavoured, citrusy, medium-dry style, with very good depth and vigour. $27 (A)126 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

regional tastingPINOT GRIS Domain Road Vineyard GEWÜRZTRAMINER Alexandra Wine Central Otago Pinot Gris Company Ferauds17 TASTED 2012 HHH1/2 3 TASTED Chardonnay 2012 HHHH6 AWARDED Scented and vibrantly fruity, 2 AWARDED Lemon-scented. Fleshy, withPinot gris is by far the most in a medium-dry style, generous, citrusy, leesy flavourswidely planted white-wine with pear, lemon and spice Schist Hills and a rounded finish. Somegrape in Otago - but this class flavours, showing very good Old Vineyard Central buttery and cheesey notes fromproved disappointing. Many depth. $25 (A, UK) Otago Gewürztraminer MLF. Good value. $22of the wines lacked intensity, 2011 HHHHsuggesting that this highly Aurum Central Otago Perfumed, mouthfilling Maude Mt Maudefashionable, vigorous variety is Pinot Gris 2012 HHH wine from Alexandra, with Vineyard Central Otagobeing over-cropped. Pale and fleshy, with concentrated, lychee and spice Chardonnay 2012 HHHHLocharburn Central Otago moderately concentrated, flavours, and a slightly sweet, Lemony bouquet. ExcellentPinot Gris 2012 HHHH slightly sweet, pear-like soft, lingering finish. $29 freshness, depth and driveLively, gently sweet wine, flavours, showing good varietal Schist Hills on the palate, with somescented and fleshy, with character and balance. $26 (A) Old Vineyard Central complexity and a lingeringcitrusy, appley flavours, fresh Otago Gewürztraminer finish. (From 18-year-old vines atand strong, and a hint of Fifth Bridge Central Otago 2012 HHH1/2 Wanaka, fermented in seasonedcinammon. (30 per cent barrel- Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Perfumed, fleshy, strongly French oak puncheons.) $28 (A)fermented.) $25 (A) Light yellow-green, with varietal wine, grown at good weight and depth of Alexandra. Light yellow, with Nanny Goat VineyardSchist Hills Central Otago lively, peachy, lemony flavours musky aromas and generous, Central OtagoPinot Gris 2012 HHHH and plenty of drink-young citrusy, spicy flavours. $29 Chardonnay 2012 HHHScented, medium style, fleshy charm. $20 (A) Lemon-scented, crisp andand rich, from Alexandra. CHARDONNAY lively, in a slightly “Chablis-Distinctly spicy and gingery, SAUVIGNON like style”, with good drive,with considerable sweetness BLANC 4 TASTED according to one judge. Theand a hint of honey. $27 3 AWARDED others noted a strong oakAmisfield Central Otago 4 TASTED Pinot noir enjoys spectacular influence. $36 (A)Pinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 2 AWARDED success in Otago, so it’s hardMouthfilling and fleshy, partly to understand why chardonnay, OTHER WHITESbarrel-fermented style, with Sauvignon blanc is a minor the other great grape ofripe pear and slight cinnamon variety in the deep south Burgundy, is yet to stand out. 3 TASTEDflavours, gentle sweetness, but the best Otago versions, Pinot gris ripens more easily 1 AWARDEDfresh acidity and very good grown in the relatively warm but chardonnay’s obviouslength. $30 (A) Cromwell Basin sub-region and potential is largely untapped. Bannock Brae Marlene’s often partly barrel-fermented, Central Otago Gruner are well worth trying. Veltliner 2012 HHH1/2 Mouthfilling and fleshy, with Domain Road Vineyard ripe, citrusy, spicy flavours, Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHH fresh and lively, and a crisp, Vibrantly fruity, with fresh, fully dry, lingering finish. $28 citrusy, slightly appley flavours and a smooth, dryish ROSÉ finish. (32 per cent barrel- fermented.) $24 (A, UK) 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED Rockburn Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc Otago pinot noir yields a 2012 HHH distinctive style of rosé. Top Mouthfilling, well-rounded dry bottlings are enticingly scented, wine, clearly varietal, with herbal with strawberry and spice notes and oak complexity. flavours showing excellent (Blended from 55 per cent vibrancy, crispness and depth. Gibbston fruit, handled in tanks, and 45 per cent Parkburn fruit, JUDGES barrel-fermented.) $24 (A)Michael Cooper Ken Moon Simon NunnsWinestate’s New Zealand A specialist in information Winemaker for Cooperseditor is author of the technology and intellectual Creek which he joinedinternationally acclaimed Wine property law with A J Park in 1997, Simon has aAtlas of New Zealand and Law, Ken has in-depth postgraduate diploma inthe annual Michael Cooper’s tasting experience of viticulture and oenologyBuyer’s Guide to New Zealand classic European wines from Lincoln UniversityWines. In the 2004 New and is a senior national and is a senior judge atYear Honours, Michael was wine judge. New Zealand nationalappointed an Officer of the wine competitions.New Zealand Order of Meritfor services to wine writing. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 127

OTAGO - Centr al O ta g o & Wa it a k i Va lley8 Ranges Central Otago Akarua Rua Central Otago Folding Hill Central Otago Valli Waitaki VineyardPinot Rosé 2012 HHHHH Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Pinot Noir 2012 HHHHBright pink, raspberry-scented As a drink-young style, praised Richly coloured Bendigo red, Dense, purple-flushed colour,rosé from Alexandra, with a by two judges as “pretty”, this with good concentration of very bold for pinot noir.sliver of sweetness amidst is hard to beat. Full-coloured, it plum, dried herb and spice Exuberantly fruity style, withits vibrant, strawberry/spice is fragrant and buoyantly fruity, flavours, and finely balanced strong, ripe cherry and plumflavours, which show excellent with concentrated, ripe cherry, tannins. Floral, youthful wine flavours, juicy and long, freshdelicacy and depth. Full of plum and spice flavours, and a that lingers well. $39 (A, UK) acidity, and obvious cellaringdrink-young charm. $25 subtle seasoning of oak (10 per Freeland Central Otago potential. $70 (A, UK)Domain Road Vineyard cent new). $28 (A, UK) Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH Alexandra Wine CompanyPinot Noir Rosé 2012 HHH Black Quail Estate Concentrated, tightly structured alex.gold Central OtagoPale pink, Bannockburn rosé Central Otago Pinot Noir red grown in the Bendigo and Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2with fresh, crisp, strawberry 2011 HHHH Pisa districts of the Cromwell Ruby hued, with youthful,and spice flavours, and a Deeply coloured, with strong Basin. Deep ruby, fruit-packed ripe plum and spice flavours,smooth, dryish finish. $25 (A) dried herbs and nut flavours, a wine, with a slightly minty streak showing some savoury strong, toasty oak influence and and impressive length. $36 (A) complexity (French oak, 20 perPINOT NOIR good acid/tannin structure. One Lowburn Ferry Skeleton cent new), and a distinctly spicy judge scored it five stars. $38 Creek Central Otago finish. Needs time. $29.9580 TASTED Domain Road Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH Bald Hills Single Vineyard44 AWARDED Vineyard Central Otago Highly fragrant red, grown in Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH the Cromwell Basin. Savoury, Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2Pinot noir covers over 75 per Savoury, complex red, grown with excellent depth of plum, Deeply coloured, fleshy, tightlycent of Otago’s total vineyard at Bannockburn. Full-coloured, spice and nut flavours, showing structured red. Vibrantly fruity,area but the reds from this cool concentrated and lively, with a good complexity, and supple, with dried herb and spiceclimate wine country show slightly earthy streak, a strong fine-grained tannins. $39 (A) flavours that linger well. Needsmarked vintage variation. The surge of spice, dried herb and Thornbury Central Otago time. $572011 vintage reds, from a nut flavours, and a fairly firm Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH Desert Heart Seductionmuch warmer, wetter season finish. $39 (A, UK) Full-coloured, youthful Central Otago Pinot Noirthan usual, lack the richness Pisa Range Estate Black Bannockburn red, tightly 2010 HHH1/2and potential longevity of those Poplar Block Pinot Noir structured, with concentrated Full-coloured Bannockburn red,from 2010 and 2012. 2010 HHHH plum and dried herb flavours and still youthful, in a moderately Deeply coloured, with firm tannins. Described by one complex style, with fresh, ripe,Akarua Central Otago concentrated, well-ripened judge as “big, brooding”. $32 slightly nutty flavours. $27Pinot Noir 2011 HHHHH cherry, plum and spice flavours, Terra Sancta Jackson’s Doctors Flat Central OtagoAttractively perfumed, deeply showing good harmony. Block Central Otago Pinot Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2coloured, still-youthful red, with Fragrant and youthful, in a bold Noir 2010 HHHH Savoury, complex style, withsubstantial body, generous, but finely structured style, with Powerful, youthful, single- dried herb and nut flavours,ripe plum/spice flavours and rich fruit, toasty oak and a long vineyard Bannockburn showing very good ripenessfinely integrated French oak finish. $56 (A, UK, US) red. Deeply coloured, with and depth, and a moderately(33 per cent new). Ageworthy, Rockburn Central Otago concentrated plum and spice firm finish. Verging on foursingle-vineyard red, rated highly Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH flavours, fine-grained tannins stars. $46 (UK)by all panellists. $46 (A, UK) Built to last, this classy young and excellent vigour and Greylands RidgeTwo Degrees red was blended from Parkburn, potential. One judge rated it Central Otago Pinot NoirCentral Otago Pinot Noir Cromwell Basin (85 per cent) five stars. $48 (A, US) 2012 HHH1/22010 HHHH1/2 and Gibbston (15 per cent) fruit, Terra Sancta Deeply coloured, single-Richly coloured, single- and matured in French oak Mysterious Diggings vineyard Alexandra red, withvineyard Cromwell Basin casks (35 per cent new). Full Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH fresh, strong, plummy, slightlyred, with generous, finely ruby, it is mouthfilling, with ripe Floral and finely balanced for spicy flavours, showing sometextured plum and dried herb cherry, plum and spice flavours, early drinking, this youthful, new oak complexity, and fairlyflavours. Floral and supple, seasoned with toasty oak, and single-vineyard Bannockburn firm tannins. Verging on fourwith a sweet entry, rich fruit a fairly firm finish. Best drinking red was matured in seasoned stars. $35characters and finely balanced 2015+. $40 oak barrels (between 3 and Greylands Ridgeoak. Enjoyed by all judges (one 6 uses). Full-coloured, it is Ridgeback Alex Pinot Noirscored it five stars). $38 (A) invitingly scented, fruity and 2012 HHH1/2 supple, with vibrant cherry and Vibrantly fruity, youthful, plum flavours, ripe and rounded. single-vineyard red, handled Fine value at $24.95. (A, US) in seasoned oak casks. Deep Valli Gibbston Vineyard ruby, with ripe, sweet fruit Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH characters and very good depth Deeply coloured, generous and of cherry, plum and spice supple, with vibrant cherry, flavours. $25 plum and spice flavours, woven Locharburn Central Otago with fresh acidity, and a strong Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 seasoning of French oak (34 Youthful, deeply coloured red per cent new). Very skilfully with plum, herb and spice crafted. $70 (A, UK, US) flavours, fresh and strong, and a moderately firm finish. $35 (A)128 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

regional tastingMitre Rocks Central Otago Amisfield Central Otago Mount Dotterel Nanny GoatPinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Central Otago Pinot Noir Vineyard Central OtagoDeep, youthful colour. Slightly Boldly coloured. Fleshy and 2010 HHH Syrah 2012 HHHlean, according to two judges supple, with concentrated Full-coloured red, with strong, Full-coloured, with strong,but has fresh, strong flavours plum, spice and herb flavours, ripe, spicy flavours but a spicy, nutty flavours, a hint ofof red berries, herbs and but two judges found it slightly tight, chewy, slightly austere dried herbs and some savoury,spices. $40 oak-dominated. $40 (A, US) finish (noted by all judges). oaky complexity. $36 (A)Peregrine Central Otago Amisfield RKV Reserve From Mitre Rocks. $35Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Rockburn Central Otago SWEET WHITESFresh and lively, with very good Generous, with moderately Pinot Noir 2011 HHHdepth of plum, spice and dried developed colour, a sweet Floral, with good depth 6 TASTEDherb flavours, fine-grained entry and ripe, red berry and of plum and dried herb 5 AWARDEDtannins and considerable dried herb flavours. Shows flavours, showing some fruitcomplexity. $45 very good depth but one judge sweetness, and fine-grained Riesling is the base of most ofSoho McQueen found it “ponderous” and tannins. One judge scored it Otago’s finest sweet wines,Central Otago Pinot Noir another “a bit cloying”. $95 very highly. $40 (A, UK, US) although the region’s relatively2011 HHH1/2 Anthem Ascend Saddleback Central Otago low humidity keeps “nobleRuby hued, youthful, classic Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 HHH rot” fairly rare.regional style, grown at Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Fresh and lively, in aGibbston and Bendigo. Fresh Full-bodied, very youthful red, moderately complex style, with Mondillo Nina Lateacidity, gentle tannins and very grown in three districts in the plum, spice and herb flavours, Harvest Riesling 2012good depth of berry and dried Cromwell Basin, with strong, showing good depth. $28 (375ml) HHHHHherb flavours. $44 (A, UK, US) plummy, slightly spicy flavours Selaks Winemakers Scented, deliciously intenseTerra Sancta woven with fresh acidity. Not Favourite Central Otago wine, with a gently honeyedSlapjack Block Pinot Noir giving away much yet but Pinot Noir 2011 HHH bouquet. Rich, very vibrant,2010 HHH1/2 firmly structured and worth Full-coloured, generous red, citrusy flavours, with a lovelyThis very sturdy, powerful cellaring. $38 with fresh plum/spice flavours, harmony of fruit, botrytis,red split the judges. From the Ceres Composition a herbal streak and an easy- sweetness (198g/litre ofoldest vines in the Cromwell Central Otago drinking appeal. $25 residual sugar) and mouth-Basin, planted in 1991, it is Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Surveyor Thomson Single watering acidity. $28deep and still bright in colour, From two sites at Bannockburn, Vineyard Central Otagowith concentrated plum, herb this deeply coloured red is Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Ostler Audrey’s Waitakiand spice flavours. One judge tight and youthful, with strong, Mouthfilling and firm, with full, Valley Noble Pinot Grisfound it a bit too oaky (French, vibrant plum and spice flavours, slightly developed colour and 2011 (375ml) HHHH40 per cent new); another gave a powerful oak influence and a good concentration of herb and Rich, well-rounded, clearlyit five stars. $69.95 (A, US) chewy finish. $38 (A) spice flavours. $45 (A, UK, US) varietal wine, with concentrated8 Ranges Barrel Selection Coal Pit Tiwha Central The Aurora Vineyard peach, baked pear and spiceCentral Otago Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir 2011 HHH Bendigo Central Otago flavours, deliciously sweet and2010 HHH Full-coloured fruity and supple. Pinot Noir 2012 HHH smooth. $35Generous, single-vineyard A decidedly herbal style from Generous, deep ruby red,Alexandra red, given lengthy the elevated Gibbston district, vibrantly fruity, with fresh Ostler Blue House Waitakibarrel time, with ripe dried with plenty of flavour and acidity and strong, lively cherry Valley Noble Rieslingherb and spice flavours, and a an appealing freshness and and plum flavours. $38 (A) 2011 (375ml) HHH1/2well-rounded finish. Enjoyable vibrancy. $42 (A) Wooing Tree Central Otago Light gold, with a honeyed,now. $40 Grasshopper Rock Central Pinot Noir 2010 HHH strongly botrytis-influenced8 Ranges Central Otago Otago Pinot Noir 2011 HHH Deep, slightly developed colour. bouquet. Rich and oily-textured,Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Dried herb and spice aromas. Full-flavoured, with dried herb with abundant sweetness andFull-coloured Alexandra red, Fresh, well-structured palate and spice characters, and fresh crisp acidity. $36sweet-fruited, with fresh, showing some fruit sweetness, acidity. $46 (A, UK)vibrant plum, spice and dried with well-integrated oak Kalex Luna Noble Rieslingherb flavours. $32 (French, 30 per cent new) and OTHER REDS 2012 (375ml) HHHAlexandra Wine decent length. Worth cellaring. Deep yellow. Sweet style withCompany Davishon $34 (A, UK, US) 2 TASTED strong, lemony flavours and aPinot Noir 2011 HHH Hawkshead Central Otago 2 AWARDED moderate level of botrytis butRuby hued, with a fresh Pinot Noir 2011 HHH two judges thought the winebouquet of dried herbs and Full-coloured, generous blend of The Aurora Vineyard lacked real finesse. $37spices. Mouthfilling, with Bendigo and Gibbstone grapes. Legacy Reserve Syrahstrong, lively, herb and spice Dried herb and nut flavours, 2011 HHH1/2 Peregrine Charcoalflavours, showing some oak showing good depth, and a firm Dense, youthful, purple- Creek Riesling 2012complexity. $34.95 backbone of tannin. $37 (UK) flushed colour. Distinctly spicy (375ml) HHH Maude Central Otago bouquet, leading into a bold Late harvest style, with strong, Pinot Noir 2011 HHH palate, with a strong seasoning citrusy, appley flavours, Fresh and supple, with good of oak, concentrated plum, showing some toasty, depth of red berry and dried herb herb and spice flavours, and a developed notes. Moderately flavours, and a gentle seasoning very firm finish. $42 sweet (95g/litre of residual of new oak. $35 (A, UK, US) sugar), with lively acidity and good harmony. $35 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 129

MICHAEL COOPERThe cool, late-ripening growing season of 2012 produced Folium Marlboroughsome striking white wines in the South Island, as shown Sauvignon Blancby the five-star Central Otago riesling, Marlborough pinot 2012 HHHH1/2gris and Marlborough chardonnay in this tasting. Further This rich, racy wine was grownnorth, the Indian summer of 2010 yielded some of the in the Brancott Valley. WeightyHawke’s Bay region’s best-ever syrahs. and minerally, it’s an intensely varietal style, with vibrant, concentrated melon, gooseberry and capsicum flavours, tight, crisp and long. $28 (A)Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Johanneshof Cellars BlancWines available in export markets are shown as de Blancs 2007 HHHH1/2(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Classy Marlborough blend of barrel-fermented chardonnay Fromm Clayvin Vineyard Saint Clair Pioneer Block (mostly) and pinot blanc, Marlborough Pinot Noir 4 Sawcut Marlborough disgorged after at least fiveAuburn Bendigo 2011 HHHHH Chardonnay 2012 HHHHH years on its yeast lees. LightCentral Otago Riesling Notably classy, smooth-flowing From the Ure Valley, this very lemon/green, with a steady2012 HHHHH red, deeply coloured, with classy wine was hand-picked “bead”, it shows excellentRevealing lovely depth, highly concentrated cherry, and fermented and lees-aged intensity, vigour and complexity,delicacy and harmony, this is plum and nut flavours. Bright for 10 months in French oak with citrusy, yeasty, nuttya medium-sweet style (62g/ and youthful, deliciously savoury casks (20 per cent new). flavours, crisp and long. $38litre of residual sugar) with and supple, it shows excellent Full-bodied and finely textured, Saint Clair Pioneervibrant, lemony flavours, hints harmony, with the depth and it has rich, vibrant, citrusy Block 10 Twin Hillsof apricot and spice, excellent structure to age well. Open flavours, moderate acidity, a Marlborough Chardonnaysugar/acid balance and a very 2016+. $80 (A, UK, US) slightly nutty, toasty complexity 2012 HHHH1/2long finish. $35 Giesen The Brothers Late and a long finish. An elegant, “Full-on” style, estate-grownBrancott Estate Letter Harvest Marlborough distinctly cool-climate style, it in the Omaka Valley andSeries ‘F’ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 should mature well. $34 fermented and lees-agedPinot Gris 2012 HHHHH (375ml) HHHHH Unison Gimblett for 10 months in French oakEnticingly scented, mouthfilling Showing lovely purity and Gravels Hawke’s Bay casks (50 per cent new). Stillwine, hand-picked (mostly) and richness, this very sweet (223g/ Syrah 2010 HHHHH very youthful, it is sturdy, withfermented in tanks, wooden litre of residual sugar) wine is Set for a long life, this strong, ripe, peachy, toasty,cuves and oak puncheons. from shrivelled, but not botrytis- densely coloured, still purple- buttery flavours, showing goodGenerous, vibrant pear, lychee affected grapes, hand-harvested flushed red was barrel-aged complexity, fresh acidity andand spice flavours, showing in July. Pale green/gold, it is for 20 months. It is notably obvious potential. $34 (UK)lovely varietal purity, delicacy syrupy and oily, with fresh, concentrated, with sweet-fruit Saint Clair Pioneer Blockand depth, and a soft, slightly highly concentrated stonefruit delights, fresh plum, spice and 12 Lone Gum Marlboroughsweet, harmonious finish. Very and honey flavours. Drink now nut flavours, a hint of licorice, Gewurztraminerclassy and full of charm. $38 onwards. $30 (A, UK) and ripe, supple tannins. An 2012 HHHH1/2Fromm Clayvin Vineyard Trinity Hill Homage obvious candidate for cellaring; Enticingly perfumed, softlyMarlborough Chardonnay Syrah 2010 HHHHH open 2015+. $55 (A, US) mouthfilling wine from the lower2010 HHHHH Densely coloured Gimblett Omaka Valley. Delicious already,Very beautiful, delicate, refined Gravels, Hawke’s Bay red, ½ with good weight and vibrantwine from mature vines in matured for over a year in peach, pear, ginger and spicethe upper Brancott Valley. French oak barriques (90 per Brancott Estate Letter flavours, showing excellentMatured in seasoned French cent new). Floral, rich, very Series ‘P’ Marlborough intensity and harmony. $25 (UK)oak barriques, it is youthful sweet-fruited and supple, with Gewurztraminer Soho McQueenand sweet-fruited, with deep beautifully ripe blackcurrant, 2012 HHHH1/2 Central Otago Pinot Noirgrapefruit/nut flavours in a plum and spice flavours, Exotically perfumed, fleshy and 2012 HHHH1/2minerally, notably elegant style, gentle tannins and a long, soft, in an intensely varietal, Classic regional style, grownlong and tight. It should flourish velvety finish. Already highly gently sweet style, with lovely at Gibbston and Bendigo andfor a decade. $68 (A, UK, US) approachable, but best cellared depth of stonefruit and spice matured in French oak casks to 2015+. $120 (A, UK) flavours, hints of ginger and (40 per cent new). Full-coloured, apricot, and a well-rounded finish. vibrant and supple, with a strong Best drinking mid-2014+. $38 surge of cherry, plum and spice flavours, showing excellent complexity, and a long, savoury finish. $44 (A, UK, US)130 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

WINE OFTHE YEARExclusive Subscriber TastingCome and sample all the 4½ and 5 starrated wines we judged across Australiaand NZ in 2013National Wine Centre, AdelaideWednesday 11 September 6pm - 8pm$50per ticketSubscribers and Sponsorsentry is freeTicket bookings 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] limited number of tickets available

MICHAEL COOPER Georges Michel Golden Greystone Waipara Valley Saint Clair Mile Marlborough Chardonnay 2012 HHHH Godfrey’s Creek ReserveBrancott Estate Letter Chardonnay 2012 HHHH Richly scented, barrel- Marlborough Pinot GrisSeries ‘T’ Marlborough Already enjoyable. Mouthfilling, fermented wine, citrusy and 2012 HHHHPinot Noir 2011 HHHH it has generous, ripe, peachy, sweet-fruited. Full-bodied and Mouthfilling, dry style (4.5g/Ruby hued and mouthfilling, slightly buttery flavours, with vibrantly fruity, with buttery, litre of residual sugar), withwith fresh, youthful cherry, a subtle seasoning of toasty toasty notes adding complexity subtle pear, citrus fruit andstrawberry and spice flavours, oak and finely balanced acidity. and a finely balanced, smooth spice characters. Weighty andshowing good complexity. Good value. $23 finish. Stylish wine, drinking youthful, with finely poisedSavoury, ageworthy wine; open well from now onwards. $33 (A) flavours that linger well. Bestmid-2014+. $45 Man O’War Holystone drinking 2014+. $26 (A)Church Road McDonald 2012 (375ml) HHHH Main Divide Waipara Valley Saint Clair MarlboroughSeries Hawke’s Bay Rich, sweet blend of sauvignon Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Riesling 2012 HHHHChardonnay 2012 HHHH blanc and semillon, grown on Sturdy, generous red from Youthful, elegant, finelyComplex style, hand-picked Waiheke Island and matured Pegasus Bay, matured for over poised wine, grown mostlyand fermented with indigenous in French oak casks (all new). a year in French oak barrels (20 in the lower Brancott andyeasts in “small and large Gold/amber, medium-bodied per cent new). Mouthfilling and Awatere valleys. Very freshformat French oak”. Bright, style, with peachy, honeyed sweet-fruited, with strong plum and vigorous, with lemon,light lemon/green, with a flavours, concentrated and oily. and spice flavours, showing apple, lime and spice flavours,fragrant bouquet and fresh, It’s already drinking well. $45 good complexity, and balanced a gentle splash of sweetnesspeachy, toasty, biscuity Giesen The Brothers tannins. Drink now or cellar. (12g/litre of residual sugar) andflavours, showing good Marlborough Sauvignon Top value. $24.95 (A, UK, US) a lingering finish. Best drinkingconcentration. Rich, rounded Blanc 2012 HHHH Riverby Estate Eliza 2014-15. $22 (UK)and already drinking well. $34 Fleshy, sweet-fruited blend, Marlborough Riesling Saint Clair OmakaChurch Road McDonald grown mostly in the Dillons Point 2012 HHHH Reserve MarlboroughSeries Hawke’s Bay Pinot district, in the lower Wairau Instantly appealing, single- Chardonnay 2012 HHHHGris 2012 HHHH Valley, and partly (6.5 per cent) vineyard wine with low alcohol This is a bold style, fermentedDistinctly medium style, with barrel-fermented. Attractively (9.5 per cent) and abundant and lees-aged in Americanmouthfilling body and complexity scented, with firm acid spine, a sweetness (63g/litre of oak casks (50 per cent new).from some use of indigenous touch of complexity and punchy, residual sugar). Strong, citrusy, Mouthfilling and fleshy, it hasyeast fermentation in an old ripely herbaceous flavours. peachy, honeyed flavours, with fresh acidity and concentrated,French oak cuve. Rich, stonefruit $25 (A, UK, US) fresh, vibrant fruit characters ripe, citrusy, peachy flavours,flavours to the fore, with spicy, Giesen The Brothers overlaid with a gentle botrytis seasoned with sweet oak. It’sgingery, faintly honeyed notes Marlborough Syrah influence. $27 still very youthful; open mid-and a well-rounded finish. 2011 HHHH Riverby Estate 2014+. $34 (A)Delicious young. $34 Cool-climate and vibrantly Marlborough Chardonnay Saint Clair PioneerFolium Reserve fruity style from mature vines 2011 HHHH Block 5 Bull BlockMarlborough Sauvignon in the upper Brancott Valley. Full-bodied, with generous, Marlborough GrünerBlanc 2012 HHHH Deep and youthful in colour, citrusy flavours, slightly toasty Veltliner 2012 HHHHSlightly austere in its youth, with impressive concentration and buttery, finely integrated Full of youthful impact, thisthis Brancott Valley wine is of plum and spice flavours, oak (French, 25 per cent new), mouthfilling wine was hand-sweet-fruited and very crisp, seasoned with toasty oak, and excellent complexity and picked from second-crop vineswith excellent intensity of and a long, supple finish. Very length. Youthful and well worth and partly barrel-fermentedmelon, gooseberry and green ageworthy. $40 (A, UK, US) cellaring. $27 and lees-aged. It has excellentcapsicum flavours, tight and Saint Clair Pioneer Block delicacy and drive, with livelysteely. Open 2014+. $33 (A) 5 Bull Block Marlborough acidity, vibrant, citrusy, peachy,Fromm Pinot Gris 2012 HHHH slightly spicy flavours and a dry,Fromm Vineyard Full-bodied, Alsace style lingering finish. $25 (UK)Marlborough Pinot Noir with ripe pear/spice flavours,2011 HHHH showing excellent depth, hintsRuby hued, warm and of peaches and ginger, freshsavoury red with cherry, spice acidity and a slightly sweetand nut flavours. Slightly (12g/litre of residual sugar)masculine style, showing good finish. Still youthful. $25 (UK)concentration, with a hint ofherbs and good tannin support.$80 (A, UK, US)Fromm FrommVineyard MarlboroughSyrah 2010 HHHHStill very youthful, this is astrongly varietal, distinctlycool-climate style with a floralbouquet, strong, vibrant plum,pepper, spice and nut flavours,and gentle tannins. Bestdrinking 2015+. $63 (A, UK, US)132 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

recent releasesSaint Clair Pioneer Block Woollaston Mahana Church Road Resurgence Riwaka River9 Big John Marlborough Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Estate Nelson SauvignonRiesling 2012 HHHH 2012 HHHH Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 Blanc 2011 HHH1/2Vivacious “spatlese” style from Barrique-fermented (25 Lively, medium-bodied wine, Still very lively, this hand-the Brancott Valley, with low per cent new oak), this grown mostly in the relatively picked, single-vineyard winealcohol (8.5 per cent), abundant mouthfilling, sweet-fruited cool, elevated Matapiro district is medium-bodied, fresh andsweetness (60g/litre of residual wine has fresh, concentrated, and partly oak-fermented. crisp, with very good depth ofsugar) and strong lemon/apple tropical fruit flavours, balanced Fresh, with good depth of ripe, gooseberry/lime flavours and aflavours, with a hint of sherbet. acidity and a tight, dry finish. tropical fruit flavours, a touch minerally, flinty finish. $20Finely balanced, with good Drink now-2014. Certified of complexity and a dry, crisp Saint Clair Cabernetdelicacy and acid spine, it’s still organic. $28 finish. $30 Merlot 2012 HHH1/2a baby; open 2015+. $25 Folium Marlborough This deeply coloured, single-Saint Clair Pioneer ½ Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 vineyard red from the GimblettBlock 11 Cell Block ½ Medium-bodied Brancott Gravels in Hawke’s Bay is aMarlborough Chardonnay Valley red, full-coloured, with blend of cabernet sauvignon2012 HHHH Black Barn Hawke’s Bay ripe strawberry/spice flavours (39 per cent), merlot (36 perThis fleshy, rich wine was Montepulciano showing very good complexity, cent) and malbec (25 per cent).grown at two Dillons Point 2012 HHH1/2 depth and structure, although Generous and supple, it hassites, in the lower Wairau Fresh, medium-bodied red, some earthy, rustic notes very good depth of blackcurrant,Valley, and fermented and grown at Havelock North and detract slightly. $31 (A) plum and red berry flavours,lees-aged in all-new French oak in the Gimblett Gravels, and Georges Michel La fine-grained tannins and drink-casks. Full-bodied, it has fresh, French oak-matured for nine Reserve Marlborough young appeal. $22concentrated, stonefruit flavours, months. Vibrantly fruity, with Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 Saint Clair Marlboroughstrongly seasoned with toasty good depth of blackcurrant Full-coloured, savoury style, Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2oak. Still slightly oak-dominated, and cherry flavours, and a matured for over a year in Mouthfilling, fresh and buoyantlyit should be at its best mid-2014 moderately firm finish. Best French oak barrels, half new. fruity, this Wairau Valley wineonwards. $34 (UK) drinking mid-2014+. $39 Moderately concentrated, with was mostly barrel-fermentedSoho Havana Marlborough Brodie Estate Pinot Noir spicy, nutty flavours, a hint of (in French and American oak).Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 herbs and good complexity. It’s Its generous, ripe citrus fruitBold style of pinot noir, dark, Attractively scented, ruby drinking well now. $33 (A) and peach flavours are well-sturdy and ripely scented. Fresh hued Martinborough red with Giesen Marlborough seasoned with toasty oak, withand supple, with exuberantly moderately rich cherry, plum Sauvignon Blanc a finely balanced, slightly butteryfruity cherry, plum, spice and and spice flavours, some 2013 HHH1/2 finish. $22 (A)herb flavours, showing excellent savoury, nutty notes adding Crisp, medium-bodied style, Saint Clairdepth. $38 (A, UK, US) complexity, and ripe, balanced attractively scented, with Marlborough GrünerUnison Selection tannins. Best drinking 2014+. fresh, ripely herbaceous Veltliner 2012 HHH1/2Gimblett Gravels $42 (A, UK, US) flavours of citrus fruits, Drinking well now, this is aCabernet Sauvignon Church Road Hawke’s Bay lychees and lime, showing good, versatile “food” wine,Merlot 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 very good delicacy, depth and harvested from second-cropFrench oak-aged for two years, Still youthful, this barrel- vibrancy. $19 (A, UK, US) vines. Fresh and full-bodied,this is the first vintage of fermented, lees-aged wine is Resurgence Riwaka River it has peachy, spicy flavours,Unison’s top label that doesn’t mouthfilling, with fresh, citrusy, Estate Nelson Chardonnay hints of apricot and ginger,feature syrah in the blend. It peachy flavours, slightly toasty 2011 HHH1/2 a touch of oak/lees-aginghas bold, moderately youthful and buttery, considerable Pale, creamy, single-vineyard complexity, balanced aciditycolour, with fresh, concentrated complexity and good depth. wine with substantial body. and a dry finish. $22 (A)blackcurrant, plum and spice Enjoyable now, it should be at Peachy, slightly spicy andflavours. Some green, leafy its best 2014-15. $30 buttery, with toasty notesnotes detract, but this densely adding complexity and goodpacked, firmly structured wine depth. Enjoyable now. $25should mature well. $65 (A)Woollaston STAR RATINGS Mahana NelsonPinot Gris 2012 HHHH Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofFleshy, rich, single-vineyard excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.wine, hand-picked and All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryfermented with indigenous professionals and are compared in peeryeasts in old French classes by three judges.puncheons. Weighty and CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,youthful, with strong stonefruit, a major mail-order business.pear and spice flavours, and CD Cellar door price.a faintly toasty, buttery finish. CDO Cellar door only.Certified organic. $28 SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 168. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 133

MICHAEL COOPERSaint Clair Marlborough Woollaston Nelson Georges Michel Saint ClairMerlot 2012 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 Golden Mile Marlborough Vicar’s Choice MarlboroughThis generous, full-coloured Full-bodied, with very good Sauvignon Blanc Gewurztraminer 2012 HHHred was grown at Rapaura depth of peach, nectarine and 2012 HHH Musky, with peachy, gingeryand American oak-aged. citrus fruit flavours, a sliver of Mouthfilling, ripe style from the flavours, showing a touchMouthfilling, plummy and spicy, sweetness, and fresh, finely Wairau Valley, with tropical fruit of phenolic hardness and awith a hint of dark chocolate, balanced acidity. Certified flavours to the fore, a herbal gently sweet, soft finish. Veryfinely balanced tannins and organic. $23 undercurrent and a fresh, tight, easy-drinking style, enjoyablevery good depth, it’s already dry finish. $20 (A, UK) young. $19.50approachable, but should be at  Saint Clairits best 2014-15. $22 (UK) Haha Marlborough Vicar’s Choice MarlboroughSaint Clair Marlborough Abbey Cellars Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Pinot Gris 2012 HHHPinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 Medium Dry Hawke’s Bay Highly fruit-driven style, grown Refreshing, basically dry wineAttractively scented blend of Riesling 2012 HHH mostly in the Awatere Valley (4.7g/litre of residual sugar),Wairau Valley and Awatere Still youthful, this is an off-dry and matured for nine months in with satisfying depth of citrusy,Valley grapes, full-bodied, fresh style, with moderate alcohol tanks (60 per cent) and barrels peachy, slightly spicy flavours andand flavoursome. Citrusy and and good depth of fresh, citrusy (40 per cent). Full-coloured a crisp, lively finish. $19.50 (A)peachy, with hints of spices and flavours, crisp and tightly and supple, with good vigour Saint Clair Vicar’s Choiceginger, and very good balance, structured. Open 2014+. $22 and depth of fresh, cherryish, Marlborough Rieslingvigour and depth. $22 (A) Abbey Cellars Rapture plummy flavour. A drink-young 2012 HHHSaint Clair Hawke’s Bay Merlot charmer. $20 (A) Medium-bodied style, fresh,Marlborough Pinot Gris Malbec 2011 HHH Johanneshof crisp and lively, with goodRosé 2012 HHH1/2 Enjoyable now, this good, honest Marlborough Sauvignon depth of lemon/lime flavoursFlavoursome, lively blend of red was grown in the Bridge Pa Blanc 2012 HHH and a slightly sweet finish.pinot gris (85 per cent) and Triangle and French oak-aged Distinctive style, with substantial Enjoyable now but bestpinot noir (15 per cent). Pale for 20 months. Mouthfilling, it is body, strong gooseberry, drinking 2014 onwards. $19.50pink, with mouthfilling body, plummy and spicy, with some pineapple and herb flavours, and Selaks Premium Selectiondelicate peach, strawberry savoury complexity and fairly firm a splash of sweetness (7g/litre of Breeze Sparklingand spice flavours, a sliver tannins. $20 residual sugar) balanced by high Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHHof sweetness (5.7g/litre of Abbey Cellars Reserve acidity. $24 (A) This vivacious wine is a lowresidual sugar), fresh acidity Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Riverby Estate alcohol style (9 per cent), simpleand very good delicacy and 2012 HHH Marlborough Riesling but highly enjoyable, with crisp,depth. $22 (UK) This pale straw wine was 2012 HHH appley, limey flavours, tangySoho Carter fermented and matured for Restrained, very youthful wine, and refreshing. $18Waiheke Island 10 months in barrels (30% made in a dry style (3.3g/litre Sileni Cellar SelectionChardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 per cent new). A full-bodied, of residual sugar). Medium- Marlborough SauvignonVery youthful, with good body, peachy, creamy, slightly bodied, with ripe, lemony, appley Blanc 2013 HHHfresh acidity and strong, peachy, honeyed wine with a strong flavours, and hints of marmalade Easy-drinking style, medium-toasty, nutty flavours. Currently oak influence, it’s quite and spice. Needs time. $21 bodied, with vibrant, ripeslightly oak-dominated (French, forward; drink now-2014. $25 Saint Clair Unoaked melon/lime flavours. Fresh30 per cent new); open mid- Black Barn Hawke’s Bay Marlborough Chardonnay and gently herbaceous, with a2014+. $38 (UK) Tempranillo 2012 HHH 2012 HHH smooth finish. $20 (A, UK, US)Soljans Marlborough Medium-bodied, single- A “fruit-driven” style, handled Tussock Nelson PinotRiesling 2012 HHH1/2 vineyard red from Havelock entirely in tanks, this pale, fresh, Noir 2011 HHHFreshly scented and tangy, North, French oak-aged for 10 youthful wine is satisfyingly Ruby hued, mouthfilling redlight-bodied style (10.5 per months. Bright, fullish colour, full-bodied, with citrusy, appley with generous, moderatelycent alc/vol) with considerable with fresh, plummy flavours flavours, dry and lively. $22 youthful plum and spicesweetness (37g/litre of residual and a smooth finish, but shows Saint Clair flavours. Slightly earthy, withsugar) and steely acidity. a slight lack of warmth and Vicar’s Choice Marlborough some complexity and a firmPunchy, with good vigour. Very stuffing. $45 Chardonnay 2012 HHH finish. Certified organic.tight and youthful. $20 Borthwick Vineyard Drink-young style, with (From Woollaston.) $24 (A)Walnut Block Collectables Paddy Borthwick mouthfilling body, fresh acidityMarlborough Sauvignon Wairarapa Chardonnay and good depth of vibrantlyBlanc 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHH fruity, slightly buttery andRipely herbaceous style Fleshy, barrel-fermented toasty flavour. $19.50from the Wairau Valley, wine, with a slightly honeyedmouthfilling, with good depth bouquet, fresh acidity andof passionfruit, melon and ripe, peachy, toasty flavours,capsicum flavours, still fresh showing some complexity.and crisp. It’s drinking well Enjoyable young. $23 (A)now. $20 (A)134 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDSeptember/October 2013 Issue 131 COMPLIMENTARY COPY in this issue B r a n dy , C o g n a c & Armagnac New Releases and Top 40 best wine buys u n d e r $20 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

25 TASTED25 AWARDEDB R A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M AG N ACBrandy, the spirit of the grape, the Queen of spirits ARMAGNAC Château du Tariquet Follecontinues to delight for those who like a warming, $100 & OVER Blanche Cask Strengthcomplex brew! With its greater range of grape varieties 12 Years Old Franceused, armagnac (and also Australian brandy) tends 6 TASTED Armagnac HHHHto be broader in flavour, while cognac, with its single 6 AWARDED Slight vegetative nose openingvariety aims for purity of spirit. Both have their place up to a perfumed sweetness.in this judging and it is generally fair to say the higher A lot fresher and better balanced Palate offers a good mouthfulthe price, the finer the spirit, with individual preference than the Armagnac of the past. of solid sweet brandy flavours.coming into play. All spirits are non-vintage blends Nice age. $139unless indicated by date.BRANDY Janneau XO Royal Grand Armagnac HHHHH3 TASTED Elegant style, with sweet3 AWARDED liqueur-like aromas. Quite intense. Very well balancedGenerally lighter, well-made palate - nice wood in thestyles keeping the Australian middle with sweet, mouthfillingtradition alive! flavours that linger on to a drying finish. $98.99St Agnes XO Janneau Napoleon France Château du Tariquet Château du TariquetBrandy HHHH Armagnac HHHH1/2 Armagnac 1994 HHHHH XO France ArmagnacFull bodied, with great wood Perfumed, smoky nose A complexity of woody aromas NV HHHHcharacters on the complex nose. showing some nice age. Palate dominate the nose; some A perfectly balanced sweetWood dominates the palate is smooth and well balanced, caramel sweetness. Beautifully liqueur-like nose, with nice fruitbut there are some nice brandy and a little drying, with lovely complex, sweet palate with intensity. Complex palate, withflavours underneath. $100 complexity of brandy-driven some great wood. Balanced long, lingering spiciness on the flavours. $94.99 and youthful, with a long, spicy finish. $129St Agnes VSOP Janneau VSOP Grand finish. $199Brandy HHH1/2 France Armagnac HHHH Château du Tariquet Château du TariquetLight citrussy aromas and Floral bouquet, with hints of Le Legendaire France Folle Blanche Caskmedium bodied, nicely balanced almonds and nougat. Good Armagnac HHHH1/2 Strength 8 Years Oldsweetness, with some brandy wood/fruit/brandy flavour A mix of floral and boiled lolly France Armagnac HHHnotes. A younger style. $39 profile, with nice smokiness aromas, with lovely aged A very pleasant sweet nose, with and a little spiciness. $74.99 characters. Smooth in the a floral lift. Leaner style palateSt Agnes Classic Château du Tariquet VSOP mouth, with complex flavours dominated by spicy spirit. $1193 Star Brandy HHH France Armagnac HHH1/2 and a balance of sweetnessA lighter, fruity style, with floral Sweet young floral and aged characters. $179 COGNACfragrances and good depth of fragrances, with subtle wood. Château du Tariquet Folle UNDER $100sweet, spicy flavours. $32 Silky smooth and youthful Blanche Cask Strength palate. A hint of cinnamon 15 Years Old France 7 TASTEDARMAGNAC and dash of pepper. $49.99 Armagnac HHHH 7 AWARDEDUNDER $100 A fuller style showing more age and maturity. Pleasant brandy A solid class of elegant, well-4 TASTED notes on the dusty/hay nose. balanced, young spirit cognacs.4 AWARDED Tight wood/fruit flavours, with a long, spicy finish. $169Very good value here, withvarying intensity and broadness.136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingHennessy VSOP Courvoisier VS COGNACCognac HHHH1/2 Cognac HHHH $100 & OVERA beautifully made cognac, Rich aromas and a lightweightwith a delicate bouquet palate - quite sweet and not very 5 TASTEDshowing a perfumed-like edge. complex, with a lovely balance ofPalate is elegant and youthful, fruit and wood flavours. $55.99 5 AWARDEDwith big hit of sweet flavoursand showing some pleasant \"Awesome,\" agreed the judges.spiciness on the finish. $78.99 \"These are to die for and areMartell VSOP up several notches. You can'tMedaillon Old Fine France miss here,\" said one judge.Cognac HHHH1/2A lovely, rich, fuller style of Martell Cordon Courvoisier XO Imperialcognac, with complex spirity Bleu Extra Old Fine Cognac HHHHHaromas and a rich and complex France Cognac HHHHH Great dark, complex, cognacpalate - very smooth and very An old, rich and very elegant aromas, with very good wood/well balanced, with powerful style. A wonderfully dark, age balance. Rich in the mouth,flavours than linger on. $75 complex, cognac nose and with complex age developing. delightful cognac flavours - very A beautiful balance of cognac well-balanced palate, with some flavours, with a spicy finish. $180 very good use of oak. $150 Meukow VSOP Martell XO Extra Old Superior Cognac HHHH Cognac HHHHH Wooden presence on the \"Big, bold and beautiful,\" nose, with reasonable age and according to one judge. very smooth and sweet in the Enticing raisined/muscat aromas mouth. It delivers good cognac promise something special and flavours. $62.99 the palate delivers! It's intense, elegant and full of flavour, with lovely maturity. $175 Pierre Seguinot & Fils Grande Champagne Premier Cru du Cognac France Cognac HHHHH A typical broader, older style of cognac, with the caramel/toffee characters mingling on the nose and it's soft in the mouth, bordering on sweet, and very easy to drink. $120Courvoisier VSOP Fine Meukow XOCognac HHHH1/2 Cognac HHHH1/2A medium weight cognac, A very good woody nose, withwith a sweet fruit/wood lovely fruity spirit and a reallybouquet and silky smooth, very well-balanced, mid-weightflavoursome sweet palate, with palate brimming over withsome good wood to balance masses of nicely aged fruity/that sweetness. $70 oak flavours. $149.99Martell VS Meukow VS Cognac HHH JUDGESFine Cognac HHHH A lighter style, with an esteryLight cognac bouquet showing nose and delicate, sweet, Steven Matthewssome nice development. Palate youthful fruit/wood palate Former lecturer inis a silky balance of wood age showing a little age. $51.99 hospitality studies atmaturation and spicy cognac Regency College of Tafeflavours. $60 and the Adelaide Institute of TAFE. Also a formerDavid Le Cornu Stan Obst general manager of theDirector of Malt Whisky Former corporate projects Earl of Zetland Hotel, andWholesalers. Established manager at distiller Tarac malt specialist.Adelaide 4 Malt Club. Former Australia Pty Ltd. Has been aowner of the Earl of Zetland lecturer on distillation at theHotel, with the Southern University of Adelaide andHemispheres biggest range has judged the brandy classof malt whiskies. at the Adelaide Wine Show. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137





NEW RELEASES273 TASTED146 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESAn excellent new release tasting all round, with outstanding wine Artwine Clare Valley SAUVIGNONamong the riesling, semillon and cabernet flights. We saw great Fiano 2013 HHH BLANCconsistency among the “other” (alternative varietals) red and Lifted spicy tropical & BLENDSwhite varietals, and solid results from the chardonnay and pinot fruit aromas. Softgris/grigio group. and slightly oily in the 21 TASTED mouth; nice range of 6 AWARDEDSPARKLING Annie's Lane fruit characters. $25 Good wines were few Quellteller Dowie Doole and far between here.9 TASTED Watervale Sparkling McLaren Vale \"There were too many3 AWARDED Shiraz NV HHHH1/2 Vermentino wines showing excess A traditional style with 2013 HHH pressings phenolics\",\"The good, the bad and lovely lifted complex aged A big oily nose and an commented onethe ugly - they are all red aromas with some exotically flavoured and judge. \"In an attempthere\", said the judges. leathery notes. Very soft oily textured palate with to increase flavour theThe top wines were flavoursome palate with crunchy acid. $25 wines ended up hardhead and shoulders excellent aged characters Dowie Doole and tannic\", he added.above the rest which showing through. $26.99 McLaren Vale Cheninhad many basic Smithbrook Blanc 2013 HHH Wither Hills Rarangiwinemaking faults such The Yilgarn Delicate honeyed Marlboroughas volatility, oxidation or Pemberton Blanc de aromas with a perfumed Sauvignon Blancsulphide issues. Blancs 2010 HHHH lift and an elegant palate 2012 HHHH1/2 Fresh yet complex toasty with nice acid spine. $18 Very distinctive and bouquet. Nicely structured Gartelmann Hunter pungent aromas of palate with excellent Jessica Hunter asparagus and lychees weight and balance and Valley Verdelho with a powerful a citrus/apple-like flavour 2013 HHH sauvignon blanc profile. $35 A pale simple and lively varietal palate showing varietal with loads of herbaceous notes. Nice Chandon Cuvee 500 OTHER WHITE nice acidity. $20 crisp finish. Drinking Australia Cuvée VARIETALS Swings & well now. $28 2008 HHHHH Roundabouts A big mature wine with 10 TASTED Margaret River excellent toasty aged 8 AWARDED Chenin Blanc characters mingling 2013 HHH with the citrus/apple- Consistent group of Fresh spicy aromatics on like fruit. Lovely lifted interesting wines the nose. Broad palate aromas with a rich and showing that winemakers with good texture and well rounded palate are coming to grips with nice mouthfeel. $20 beautifully creamy in the these diverse varietals. Zonte's Footstep mouth. $45 All were fresh and lively Sea Mist Fleurieu which is what the judges Peninsula Verdelho were looking for. 2013 HHH A pleasant Mandoon Estate straightforward savoury Swan Valley style showing a high Verdelho 2013 HHH level of acidity. $18 Slightly pungent Zonte's Footstep honeyed nose and very The Love Symbol spicy palate with loads Fleurieu Peninsula of character. $19.50 Savagnin 2013 HHH Fresh, clean pear and apple like fruit aromas and flavours. Should drink well over the next 2-3 years. $18140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSmithbrook PINOT GRIS/Estate Pemberton GRIGIOSauvignon BlancSemillon 2013 HHHH 10 TASTEDPowerful aromas 6 AWARDEDof canned peas andpassionfruit. Nicely The judges wererounded palate with surprised! Some niceclean grassy fruit flavours drinking wines hereand long crisp finish. $20 showing freshness, balanced sugar and tannins and true varietal character. Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2 Fresh grassy aromas with hints of peppercorns. Very good depth and length of spicy pear varietal flavours on the soft and nicely textured palate. Good acid balance. $24Brygon Reserve Zonte's FootstepRegional Series Doctoress di LagoAdelaide Hills Adelaide Hills PinotSauvignon Blanc Grigio 2013 HHHH2012 HHH1/2 A lovely open andGreat pungent varietal accessible style witharomas and zingy lifted spicy pepperypassionfruit flavours citrus fruit lifting offwith a crisp acid the nose and fillingbackbone and nicely the mouth with lovelytextured palate. $19.99 flavours. $18Pertaringa Koonara Lucy &Scarecrow Alice Mt GambierSauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris 2013 HHH2013 HHH Delicate copper colouredPerfumed nose with a wine with light freshlight varietal note. Lean fruit salad aromas andspicy palate with a crisp flavours. $19.95acid spine. $18 Peter LehmannWild Oats Western Art 'n Soul BarossaAustralia Sauvignon Valley Pinot GrigioBlanc 2012 HHH 2013 HHHSlightly developed Light simple quaffertropical fruit style; some with a pleasant varietalsweetness but in balance nose and fresh zingywith the acid. $18.99 varietal palate. $14Woollaston Nelson Stone Bridge WinesSauvignon Blanc Clare Valley Pinot2012 HHH Grigio 2013 HHHPungent passionfruit Slightly pink wine withnose with similar coppery hues andcharacters on quite a reserved estery muskysweet palate. $20 aromas and flavours. $18 Tussock Nelson Pinot Gris 2012 HHH A soft fleshy buttery style with sweet peach and cumquat-like fruit characters. $19 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141

NEW RELEASESRIESLING Pauletts Robert Oatley Peter Lehmann Saddler's Creek Polish Hill River Signature Series Art 'n Soul Barossa Hunter Valley16 TASTED Clare Valley Riesling Great Southern Valley Riesling Semillon 2013 HHHH12 AWARDED 2013 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2012 HHHH 2013 HHH An excellent light fresh A great wine smelling Pure, pretty and Buttery nose with floral zesty lemon style ofAn outstanding class with of citrus blossom and feminine. Fresh lifted notes and slightly sweet, semillon. A great winethe 2012s coming into leading on to a bright lime/lemon fruit shows slightly broad palate with now that will get eventheir own and the 2013s lime/citrus palate that a fruit salad edge. Fresh hints of lychees. $14 better with some age onshowing great potential. has amazing length and and vibrant. Great acid it. $25A few showed premature wonderfully piercing acid and attractive sweet The Wine Society Gartelmann Hunterdevelopment but the best backbone. $22 finish. $23.99 Director's Selection Benjamin Hunterhad freshness, Brygon Reserve Henty Riesling Valley Semillonacid balance and great Regional Series Claymore Joshua 2012 HHH 2013 HHH1/2varietal intensity. Clare Valley Riesling Tree Clare Valley Bright and limey Spicy zesty lemon 2013 HHHH Riesling 2013 HHHH with good length and bouquet andDolan Rifleman's Lifted citrus blossom A well made, elegant freshness. Very varietal - flavoursome tropical fruitClare Valley Riesling bouquet with spicy and classic style of needs oysters! $21.99 salad of a palate with2013 HHHHH touches and a tight and riesling with soft buttery piercing spine of acid\"A purist's riesling\", delicate minerally lime citrus fruit in abundance SEMILLON that lingers on. $25suggested one judge. palate showing good wrapped up in a great & BLENDS Amesbury EstateLifted fresh citrus fruit acid spine and long acid backbone. $20 Australia Semillonwith suggestions of finish. $19.99 Artwine Clare Valley 17 TASTED Sauvignon Blancorange blossom, tight racy Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 11 AWARDED 2012 HHHacid spine and minerally Lychee aromas with a A rich and invitinggrip. Excellent balance and grapefruit-like piquancy A very good class of crowd pleaser full offreshness. $20 and a delicate and consistent quality wines lovely fresh tropical fruit elegant minerally palate. with some offering good characters. $8Peter Lehmann Wigan Very classy wine. $22 quaffing and others - Brygon ReserveEden Valley Riesling Chalkers Crossing generally the straight Flying High2008 HHHHH Hilltops Australia semillons - displaying Margaret River\"A dream of an aged Riesling 2012 HHH greater depth and Semillon 2012 HHHriesling\", thought one Big complex toasty complexity. \"Semillons Rich and ripe; taunt andjudge. Beautifully toasty aromas with a slightly are always great ageing terrific with wonderfulhoneysuckle/lime cordial oily palate and excellent propositions\", said one freshness and lengthnose and big aged fruit-driven flavours. $18 judge. \"Drink now or later\". and beautiful acidmouthfilling palate. Luchador Clare Valley spine. $17.99\"Awesome wine for the Riesling 2013 HHH Pokolbin Estate Brygon Reserve Binaged riesling lover\". $34 Subdued citrus aromas Phil Swannell 878 Margaret River and a warm, slightly oily, Pokolbin Semillon Semillon 2012 HHHRockridge Watervale palate with underlying 2011 HHHH1/2 Pretty floral nose withRiesling 2013 HHHHH lime flavours. Needs A well made wine some toasty developmentVery attractive citrus time. $19.99 \"starting to purr\", on the tropical fruit saladblossom aromas with according to one palate. $16.99a bright perfumed lift judge! Good citric fruit Brygon Reserve Binand some minerally weight. Classic varietal 828 Margaret Riverelements. Great length nose with toasty hints. Semillon Sauvignonof tight mineral-like Excellent zesty lime/ Blanc 2012 HHHflavours with lovely lemon flavours. Will age Nice toastiness to thefruity citrus notes. $15 beautifully. $25 nose and an interesting oaky/toasty palate with Peter Lehmann lemons. $16.99 Margaret Barossa McGuigan Bin Valley Semillon 9000 Hunter Valley 2008 HHHH Semillon 2013 HHH One for the lovers of aged Very tight high acid wine semillons! Nose is light with great sweet musky and elegant with toasty floral fruit and sweet bacon fat-like aromas and finish. $15 nicely aged and slightly Preveli Wines oily palate. $34 Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Pokolbin Estate Blanc 2012 HHH Ken Bray Pokolbin Subtle herbal aromas Semillon 2011 HHHH and long light strongly A classic Hunter Valley sauvignon blanc palate. semillon - very ripe, rich Nice quaffer. $19.95 and slightly hot showing some nice age. Smells like a crème brulee. Good varietal palate. $25142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingCHARDONNAY26 TASTED14 AWARDEDA solid class with the2010s outstanding.Wines from the 2011vintage were more ofa mixed bag and the2013s a bit premature.Great to see oak nowbalanced with fruit ratherthan \"An explosion at ahardware store!\" notedone judge.Robert Oatley Millbrook LimitedFinisterre Margaret Release WesternRiver Chardonnay Australia Chardonnay2010 HHHHH 2012 HHHH1/2\"A great wine with lots of Bordering on an oldtricks used to make it\", school style but veryaccording to one of the well done with toast,judges. Clever balance oak and peaches onbetween the subtle oak the nose and a rich andand melon-like varietal fruit stylish palate - quitewith lovely complexity oaky but has some gooddeveloping. $36.99 underlying fruit. $45Manjimup Wines Manjimup WinesWandering Tall Timber ManjimupWallaby Manjimup ChardonnayChardonnay 2010 HHHH2010 HHHH1/2 Very herbaceous noseA complex, layered with a lift of toastyand rich wine with well peach fruit. Full bodiedhandled varietal fruit palate with subtle fruit.and lots of nutty oak to \"One for the lovers ofmatch. Good acid and cool climate wines.\" $14lovely toasty complexity.Long and lingering onthe finish. $14 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 143

NEW RELEASESChestnut Grove Manjimup Wines The Wishing Tree 2 Wheels The Wine SocietyReserve Manjimup Peppermint Adelaide Chardonnay Hunter Valley Rosé Director's SelectionChardonnay Creek Manjimup 2011 HHH 2013 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir2010 HHHH Chardonnay Lifted floral bouquet Quite sweet and 2012 HHHH\"A nice wine for an oak 2010 HHH1/2 with 'sensible' luscious with strawberry Fresh berry fruitdriven style\", said one Subtle aromas of limes, background of oak and and cream-like fragrances with a touchjudge. Showing ripe roses and peaches. Soft a very drinkable fruit characters. A good of licorice. Palate is big,varietal fruit, bottle age, and creamy in the mouth driven palate. $12 crowd pleaser. $20 oaky and rich with dryingoak complexity and with well handled oak tannins. Excellent weightalcohol heat. $30 and tight acid spine. $14 ROSE PINOT NOIR and structure. $32.99Crooked Brook Seville HillWines Geographe Reserve Yarra Valley 10 TASTED 15 TASTED Brygon ReserveChardonnay Chardonnay 4 AWARDED 4 AWARDED Regional Series2012 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 A handful of good Yarra Valley PinotComplex old fashioned Obvious oak here \"but Many of the wines here pinots with the rest Noir 2012 HHHoaky/barrel ferment style. works well\", according were too concocted. being too tired or with An excellent mediumOaky nose and rich oaky to one judge. Melons \"Rosé should have a too many faults - in weight wine with spicypalate but very well done and cashews on the touch of savouriness winemaking terms. fresh fruit, a touch of- has plenty of length and nose; peaches on the and only a touch of vanillin oak and grainycomplexity. $19 palate. $30 sugar\", said one judge. Bird Big Barrel tannins. $19.99 Montrose Stony \"Too many wines here New Zealand Pinot Lambrook AdelaideBrygon Reserve Creek Mudgee were just too sweet\". Noir 2012 HHHH Hills Pinot NoirAdelaide Hills Chardonnay An interesting stalky 2012 HHHChardonnay 2012 HHH Deep Woods style with a spicy fruit Subtle raspberry nose2012 HHH1/2 Complex barrel Harmony Margaret lift to the nose and long with a hint of oak. VeryDescribed as \"A thinking ferment/oak characters River Rosé 2013 HHH layered and complex soft delicate palate withperson's chardonnay\", by on the nose. Nicely A savoury style with palate with hints of chocolaty tannins. $35one judge with its lifted controlled, slightly almost meaty aromas and strawberries. $29.95fruit, subtle oak and great woody, palate. $23.99 simple palate with delicateacid balance. $19.99 pocketwatch Central mouthfeel. $14.95 Ranges Chardonnay 2012 HHH South Point Estate Cashew aromas with Rosé 2013 HHH a vanillin lift and very Lovely depth of pink oaky palate with subtle hues with fresh estery varietal fruit. $16.99 grenache-like fruit and Ryder Barossa fine line of acid. $4.99 Valley Chardonnay 2012 HHH Swings & Full and fleshy with lovely Roundabouts fresh varietal fruit and Margaret River some nutty complexity Rosé 2013 HHH developing. $14 Fresh estery fruit with Singlefile Wines excellent sugar/acid Family Reserve balance and well judged Denmark Chardonnay savoury characters. $20 2012 HHH Funky French-like aromas and an intense, ripe and slightly warming palate. $45JUDGES Stephen John Rob Ruediger Stuart Bourne Owner/winemaker of Wine consultant. Senior winemaker Stephen John Wines. More Formerly senior at Chateau Tanunda. than 30 years’ winemaking production winemaker Formerly winery manager experience. Has judged at Accolade Wines and winemaker for at Adelaide, National, and (Hardy Wine Company) Barossa Valley Estate. Barossa wine shows. involving all varieties and Has 13 years’ winemaking Regular Winestate panellist styles. Wine judge at experience. Associate and chairman of judges at Brisbane Wine Show. judge at the Barossa Wine the Winestate Wine of the Show. Vintages in WA, Year Awards. Victoria and SA.144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

OTHER RED wine & spirit insider tastingVARIETALS& BLENDS Ernest Hill Andrew Watson Hunter15 TASTED Valley Tempranillo9 AWARDED Grenache 2011 HHH A fragrant medium\"Some exciting wines bodied red with- great to judge\", perfumed aromas andenthused one judge. elegant spicy palate. $25Great alternatives tothe mainstream.Wise Margaret Millbrook Geographe Andrew PeaceRiver Malbec Tempranillo Kentish Lane2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH TempranilloVery purple wine with Excellent style with 2012 HHHlovely dark concentrated subtle raspberry and ripe A very attractive moderncherry-like fruit plum fruit with slightly lightweight style - fruitcharacters. Sweet lift to porty characters. Very driven with soft tannins.the nose and intense, flavoursome with big Drink now. $13fleshy ripe palate with well structured tannin Night Harvestlovely creamy length. profile. $28 Reserve MargaretSoft tannins and long Ceravolo Adelaide River Alicantefinish. $28 Hills Petit Verdot Bouschet 2012 HHH 2010 HHH Bright, light and spicy Intense inky concentration with plenty of red of fruit on nose and palate berry fruit layered with toasty oak and firm with mocha/chocolate tannins. $21 characters. $20.99 Deep Woods Reserve Margaret River Nebbiolo 2010 HHH A rich varietal nose and nicely textured spicy palate with strong tannins. Good food wine. $35 Michelini Alpine Tenafeate Creek Valleys Teroldego Basket Press 2011 HHH One Tree Hill A clean well made style Montepulciano - earthy and fragrant 2011 HHH with nice level of acidity A fleshy open style with running through. $18.50 sweet fruit, nice savoury aspect and dash of pepper and spice. $25Nick Haselgrove GRENACHEWinestate’s 2010 Australian & BLENDSWinemaker of the Year.Winemaker/Director of 8 TASTEDAdelaide Winemakers. 4 AWARDEDFormer chief winemaker atHaselgrove Wines. A ‘flying A small flight of excellentwinemaker’ from 1993-95. wines - a re-emergenceJudge at Hobart for 3 years of some old favourites!and associate judge atAdelaide in 1996-97. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 145

NEW RELEASES Stone Bridge Ingoldby McLaren Windowrie The Mill Wines Clare Valley Vale Grenache Central RangesClayfield Grenache Mataro Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Merlot 2012 HHH Wines 2012 HHHHH A fresh light young Big rich spicy fruit, soft Excellent depth of deep quaffer with understated savoury tannins and a WINEMAKERS OF PREMIUM purple hues, lovely rich shiraz fruit characters good acid core. $21 GRAMPIANS SHIRAZ savoury fruit on the nose supported by some and big full flavoursome drying tannins. $19.99 CABERNET www.clayfieldwines.com.au savoury palate with nice BLENDS Contact Winemaker spicy oak component Tenafeate Creek Simon Clayfield and a soft tannin Basket Press One 12 TASTED Ph +61 3 5354 2689 structure. $22 Tree Hill Grenache 8 AWARDED Shiraz Mourvedre146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 2012 HHH1/2 Excellent even quality Medicinal ripe fruit flight across the vintages. bouquet and powerful, Shows good winemakers sweet and full flavoured can make good wines palate, quite hot with in all circumstances. soft tannins. $25 \"Beautifully blended blends!\" said one judge. MERLOT \"Yet the cabernet & BLENDS sauvignon was nicely put to the front 9 TASTED with the blended 5 AWARDED varieties in support. A bit hard to find quality here but there were a few nice approachable drinks at the mid-weight level. Pig in House Merlot 2012 HHHH Bright red purple wine with an aromatic nose of plums and spices with a lovely ripe varietal fruit palate and nice tannin weight. $20 Haan Classic Barossa Valley Merlot Cabernet Franc 2010 HHH Ripe fleshy nose and elegant spicy fruit palate with soft tannin structure. $25 The Old Faithful Leconfield Haan Wilhelmus Northern Exposure Coonawarra Barossa Valley McLaren Vale Merlot 2012 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache A full flavoured style Merlot Cabernet 2010 HHHH1/2 with nicely controlled Franc Malbec A robust full flavoured fruit/oak combination 2010 HHHH1/2 wine with weight, and slightly drying A big wine with leafy balance and savoury tannins. $24.95 minty nose with a cedary length. Has a darkly Manjimup Wines oak lift. Fleshy in the scented nose and Chestnut Grove mouth with slight sweet intense ripe fruit driven Reserve Manjimup ripe fruit showing lovely palate wrapped in lovely Merlot 2010 HHH freshness with good oak big soft tannins. $50 Lean spicy aromas and balance and soft tannin simple, finely structured structure. $65 varietal fruit palate with fine tannins. $40

wine & spirit insider tasting Swings & De Beaurepaire Roundabouts Victor Reserve Margaret River Mudgee Cabernet Cabernet Merlot Sauvignon 2012 HHHH 2009 HHHHH A beautifully balanced Delicate earthy dark and finely structured wine fruit aromas and an with lovely estery varietal elegant but powerful fruit, good balance palate loaded with true between the tannin, acid cabernet flavours, good and alcohol. $22 oak balance and great Winery Road South tannin structure. \"A very Australia Cabernet classy wine\", thought Sauvignon Shiraz one judge. $45 2012 HHHH A well made appealing commercial style of shiraz. Great cassis-like fruit with a hint of cigar box oak and soft tannins. $10Deep Woods Manjimup Wines Deep Woods ReserveMargaret River Chestnut Grove Margaret RiverCabernet Sauvignon Manjimup Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonMerlot 2011 HHHH Sauvignon Merlot 2011 HHHHHBig ripe dark berry fruit 2010 HHH1/2 A classical cabernet withbouquet and a big, well An elegant perfumed great depth of colour,structured and slightly blackberry nose and lovely cassis-like varietalporty, fruit palate with lovely flavoursome fruit, complex cigar box-balancing spicy oak. Just palate with balancing like oak characters andneeds time. $35 tannins and acidity. $20 huge tannin structure.Deep Woods Ebony A big seamlesslyMargaret River Singlefile Wines balanced wine. $60Cabernet Shiraz Margaret River Seville Hill2011 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra ValleyElegant minty dark fruit Merlot 2011 HHH Cabernet Sauvignonaromas - very fresh A fresh elegant varietal 2008 HHHH1/2with a good depth with nice sweet/sour \"There is a lovelyof blackcurrant and fruit characters and elegance about thisblackberry flavours pleasant spicy notes. $37 wine\", noted one judge.supported by a firm Great cabernet nosetannin structure. $14.95 Windance Margaret with a fresh violet lift River Cabernet and a powerful tannin Merlot 2011 HHH structure to the varietal A nicely structured palate with its long medium bodied style toasty finish. $30 with simple varietal fruit and firm tannins. $22 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 29 TASTED 19 AWARDED \"A joy to judge\", declared one judge. A very strong class. \"Controlled oak and elegant fruit shows the way for the future. These were strong wines, not in the varietal sense but with regard to structure and length. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 147

NEW RELEASES De Beaurepaire Wynns John Stevens Fleurieu Captain Starlight Riddoch Coonawarra McLaren Vale Mudgee Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 2011 HHHH \"A big wine with a A highly drinkable Smells of eucalypt with long life ahead of it\", medium bodied hints of violets and according to one judge. cabernet with leafy cigar box characters. Plenty of dark cherry and edged cassis and Ribena Long complex and well mulberry fruit characters fruit, supported by soft structured palate. Firm and excellent oak tannins. $24 tannins. Fresh oak. $25 balance. $149.99 Tempus Two Pewter Coonawarra Hollick Ravenswood Evil Incarnate Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Barossa Valley 2012 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Textured and savoury 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 with ripe cabernet nose Beautifully rich Powerful fruit/oak and full flavoured berry blackberry fruit aromas aromas with a fresh fruit palate, excellent and a great flavour profile violet lift. Great tannin oak, soft tannins, high on the well structured structure to the leafy acid. $30 palate with fresh oak and palate. Good drinking Flint's of big tannins. $83.60 ahead. 3-5 $80 Coonawarra Gammon's CrossingPassing Clouds Maglieri Saddler's Creek Brygon Reserve CoonawarraBendigo Cabernet McLaren Vale Watermark Regional Series Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Hunter Valley Coonawarra 2010 HHH2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon A big ripe flavoursomeExcellent dark berry and A good ripe and very 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHH number saturatedviolet varietal fruit obvious flavoursome varietal. Leafy cabernet nose - Full-flavoured cabernet. with blackcurrant andon nose and palate with Well structured, clean and fresh with a hint Slightly developed blackberry fruit . $20vanillin oak obvious on medium bodied of mint and an alert and varietal fruit and goodthe nose and loads of palate with lingering youthful blackberry palate tannin structure. $19.99sweet fruit flavours raspberry flavours and with soft tannins. $17.99showing nice toastiness stylish oak. $22.99and tight acid. $50148 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingElderton Barossa Maygars Hill Swings & Saddler's Creek Cimicky InvisibleCabernet Sauvignon Australia Cabernet Roundabouts Watermark Man Barossa Valley2010 HHH Sauvignon 2012 HHH Margaret River Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 HHHHHSmells like a cedar Fresh lifted cabernet Shiraz 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHH A lovely spicy oakchest! Big flavoursome fruit mingles with sweet Tight steely mulberry Pleasant lightly perfumed complexity to the noseblack fruit palate slightly dusty oak and high level aromas with some oaky berry bouquet and nicely with some intensedominated by oak. $30 of acid. $24 overtones. Good depth of integrated berry fruit and blackberry notes followedErnest Hill CEO berry flavours wrapped in oak palate. $17.99 by a rich syrupy palateHunter Valley SHIRAZ oak with a dry oaky finish. with dark chocolaty/blackCabernet Sauvignon 2013 - 2012 SHIRAZ fruit flavours nicely framed2011 HHH 5+ $22 & BLENDS by ripe tannins. $24Excellent combination 13 TASTED Passing Clouds 2011 Leconfieldof stylish blackberry fruit 6 AWARDED Graeme's Blend McLaren Vale Shirazand cigar box oak aromas Bendigo Shiraz 28 TASTED 2011 HHHH1/2and flavours. $30 A mixed bag. \"Too many 2012 HHH 16 AWARDED Blue/black fruit aromasIngoldby McLaren young raw wines lacking Youthful sweet cherry layered with licoriceVale Cabernet finish\", commented one nose and powerful Although some wines and showing a hint ofSauvignon 2011 HHH judge. However there fresh berry flavours. showed premature ageing menthol. Great palate,Choc/mint characters were a few youngsters Good tannin structure. the judges were surprised soft and luxuriousdominate the nose here that showed the with the strength of the with bright lifted redwith a fresh, simple way with their extra 5+ $30 group. \"The good wines fruits and well handledand spicy cool vintage depth and vibrancy. Steeple Jack were very good. Some vanillin oak. $24.95palate. $19.99 South Australia regions performed better Tenafeate CreekLuchador Clare Annie's Lane Shiraz 2012 HHH than others\", said one Basket Press OneValley Cabernet Clare Valley Shiraz Peppery berry fruit aromas judge. \"We may have to Tree Hill ShirazSauvignon 2011 HHH 2012 HHHH and simple confectionery revisit our generalization 2011 HHHH1/2Powerful pungent Vibrant crimson/black fruit flavours with drying of this vintage\". Raspberry fragrancesmedicinal bouquet and hues, powerful oak. 3-5 $11 with blackberry notesslightly oaky palate stewed berry fruit nose Windowrie and oak complexity.with nice varietal fruit and fresh and lively Central Ranges Warm spicy oakycharacters. $19.99 cassis-like flavours. Shiraz 2012 HHH palate but has plenty Good tannin structure. Smells of blueberries of full bodied fruit to and milk chocolate with match. Excellent tannin 3-5 $20.99 lovely bright peppery structure. $25 fruit flavours. $21 “Hi to all you Shiraz drinkers! Rilka's As one of the owners of Heathcote Shiraz REAL FOOD “Tatiarra” www.rilkasrealfood.com (from Robert Parker 98+) I know a good Shiraz when I drink one.”Recently, I produced a range of food products that are available online, TASTES GREAT!and from an increasing range of stockists. They are ideal for those of uswho want to keep a healthy lifestyle, or for people with special needs, A range of food products that are:such as diabetes and coeliac disease. Wheat free Gluten freeThe local ingredients are sourced for flavour and taste, and just like wine, No added sugar Yeast freethey are best when temperature controlled. and compliments a great SHIRAZSo we ship them to your fridge – both commercially and at home, so thatwe don’t have to load them up with preservatives and other chemicals. Congratulations to the World’s Greatest Shiraz ‘‘Winners”Have a look and try some for yourself, and complement them with a goodShiraz from the Winestate World’s Greatest Shiraz “Winners”. 2013PRODUCT RANGE:BREAD – PLAIN, OLIVE, WALNUT, RAISIN, BANANAPASTRY – PASTIES – MEAT & VEGETABLE, VEGETABLEPIES – CHICKEN, BEEF, APPLEFAVOURITES! – FISH BITES & POTATO CAKES (LIGHT TEMPURA BATTER) The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149

NEW RELEASESSinglefile Wines Deep Woods Block Re: Serve Haan Prestige Flint's of CoonawarraFrankland River 7 Margaret River Barossa Valley Barossa Valley Shiraz RostrevorShiraz 2011 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2011 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra ShirazAn intensely purple, Vibrant spicy fruit nose Big, bold and brash with Lovely wine. Great 2010 HHH1/2elegant, cooler climate with some light oak loads of oak and some length and weight of dark Old school style ofstyle of shiraz that's complexity and a full firm pretty blue fruit and spicy varietal fruit. Nose shiraz. Warm, rich andloaded with delightful tannic palate that's long, spices. $60 is loaded with mulberry spicy red fruit showingpeppery berry fruit, warm and inviting. $35 and cedar aromas which a sweet medicinal notebeautiful, well handled, Cimicky Trumps SHIRAZ are echoed on the with lots of oak. Longspicy oak and some fine Barossa Valley 2010 & OLDER flavoursome punchy acid finish. $20firm tannins. $37 Shiraz 2011 HHH palate. $65Pertaringa Some oak complexity to 20 TASTED The Old Faithful Copper Ox ReserveUndercover the lifted red berry nose 9 AWARDED Top of the Hill Bin 108 Clare ValleyMcLaren Vale Shiraz and a lovely varietal McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH2011 HHHH flavour profile. $18 A strong class from a Shiraz 2010 HHHH A touch of fruit cake-likeA well made warm Craggy Range Le Sol strong vintage. A vintage Lovely oak, fruit and varietal characters withinviting and spicy wine Gimblett Gravels where those who tannin balance here with cedary oak to balance.with lovely length Syrah 2011 HHH picked before the late ripe blue fruit and cedary Hot on the finish. $90of choc/mint fruit, Light peppery varietal heat produced excellent oak nose and good ripe Grail of Lisasweet oak, tannins fruit showing cool area intense wines whilst fleshy palate with a long McLaren Valeand attractive firm acid elegance with dusty oak those who picked after lingering finish. $50 Shiraz 2010 HHHbackbone. $22 and grainy tannins. $99.95 ended up with 'dead fruit' A full bodied shirazWolf Blass Grey Ingoldby characters in their wines. smelling of the forestLabel McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz The judges liked the floor with a touch ofShiraz 2011 HHHH 2011 HHH freshness and vibrancy. mocha and tasting ofA very well made wine Some lovely Cherry Ripe dark fruits. $60that's big, bold and fruit characters layered Cimicky Pertaringatannic and abounds with with oaky notes and The Autograph The Yeoman'old school' oak nicely showing good spicy Barossa Valley McLaren Valeunderscored by the length. $19.99 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHspicy blue fruit. $44.99 Millbrook Limited A huge monster of a A supple spicy wineDeep Woods Shiraz Release Western wine - hot and rich with with malty red/blueet al Margaret River Australia Shiraz powerful brooding fruit fruits, dusty oak andShiraz Grenache Cabernet 2011 HHH cake-like varietal fruit strong tannins. $195Malbec 2011 HHH1/2 Powerful lifted tarry fruit balanced by the cedaryWarm, rich and ripe with nose and oak driven oak with nice ripe tannins.great length of blue fruit palate but excellent fruit \"A classic Barossa shiraz\",characters laced with a depth. Needs time. $45 said one judge. $30big hit of cedary oak and Montrose Blacktight tannins. $14.95 Mudgee Shiraz Wolf Blass Platinum 2011 HHH Label Barossa Shiraz A firm, rich and 2010 HHHHH flavoursome wine. Lifted, A big dark fleshy wine. complex nose and racy \"One for the lovers of a acid palate with subtle hearty red\", according oak balance. $34.95 to one judge. Powerful One Road malt, licorice and black South Australia fruit characters with huge Shiraz 2011 HHH tannins and some great Smells malty with oak. Needs time. $179.99 some fruit aromas and hint of licorice. Wynns Michael Lovely medium bodied Coonawarra Shiraz raspberry palate. $6.99 2010 HHHH1/2 pocketwatch A stylish and elegant Central Ranges shiraz with a compote of Shiraz 2011 HHH raspberry/blueberry fruit Simple spicy nose and characters and delicate very spicy palate. Has violet lift. Awesome elegance and poise with power to the palate wonderful length. $16.99 yet it is elegant and balanced. $149.99150 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER