Winestate Magazine September October 2013

Imagine what theBarossa would look liketoday if he had not beena giant and done thingsthe Lehmann way. Not long after the wines were launched Watson Trophy (JWT) which was bottled Order of Australia for his contribution to thethe company’s name was changed to into magnums rather than into 750ml Australian wine industry. In 2003, Peter wonPeter Lehmann Wines; it was only the bottles. To this day it remains the only JWT the “International Winemaker of the Year”start of Peter’s innovative “difference” winner in the 51-year history of the Trophy award from the London International Winein the industry. For example, nowadays to be bottled solely into magnums. and Spirits Competition, and then in 2009everybody knows that the Barossa is too he was awarded an International Winehot to produce good pinot noir but back It is well documented that Peter only took Challenge “Lifetime Achievement” awardthen, being different, Peter Lehmann Wines in Barossa grapes and that he knew all the in recognition of his contributions to theproduced a very good Barossa Pinot Noir growers personally - and doing things the wine industry.throughout the 1980s which won many Lehmann way, he used to meet them atmedals on the show circuit. Likewise with the winery’s weighbridge during vintage Now that we have looked back on Peter’ssemillon sauterne (as it was called at to have a schluck and a nibble of Barossa long and illustrious career and some of histhe time, which back in those days was smallgoods with them as they discussed achievements, imagine what the Barossathe sole province of Griffith winemakers the vintage. Also, rather than simply would look like today if he had not been asuch as De Bortoli’s); the Peter Lehmann providing a meal break for staff during giant and done things the Lehmann way?Semillon Sauterne 1981 was an absolute vintage shifts like the larger wineries did, How many growers would have gone to thecorker of a medal-winning wine from only Peter Lehmann Wines provided their staff wall in the dark days of the early 1980s?the company’s second vintage, quite an with a slap-up meal. The whole atmosphere How many more of the Barossa’s treasuredachievement. This wine was still drinking during vintage was that of a huge big old vines would have been ripped outsuperbly through the mid-90s. family affair. during the vine pull scheme? The Australian wine industry and Australia in general is a Further demonstrating the Peter Lehmann When the Barons of the Barossa was better place thanks to the efforts of Peter“difference” - in the late 1980s when the formed in 1974, Peter was one of the Leon Lehmann, and that is his enduringAdelaide Advertiser came up with a project founders and his role in that first council was legacy to us. RIP Peter Lehmann AO - Giantcalled “The Adelaide Vines”, Lehmann’s “Mace Bearer” which meant he carried a big of the Australian Wine Industry - your nameoffered to make the wine. The plan was to vine stick with which to beat any recalcitrant will live on in hallowed company.make wine from all the surplus backyard Barons so as to bring them to order. Thegrapes in Adelaide, which would otherwise records don’t show if he ever had to actually Above: Peter Lehmann and 'Black Tess' in thesit there, and rot, or possibly spread disease. use it. In 1975, Peter was the first Australian Saltram Cellar, 1973.It turned out that there were many tonnes of wine person to be made a member of the Opposite: Margaret & Peter Lehmann. © John Kruger.grapes from all sorts of varieties, some ofwhich nobody here in Australia had seenbefore as they were smuggled in as theyarrived by European migrants. Can youimagine having to make wine out of such ahodge-podge load of grapes? Well LehmannWines did, and a year later the wine was sold.While not a brilliant wine it was quite drinkableand it sold out within hours of being released,raising $50,000 for charity. Another example of doing things theLehmann way - in 1990, the 1989 PeterLehmann Stonewell Shiraz won the Jimmy September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 51

© Orange Lane STUDIOS.

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZPETER SIMIC THIS is the eighth year of Winestate Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills blend equal top judging some of the finest iconic syrah in 2010 and finally Bird in Hand Nest Egg, & shiraz against the top Australian shiraz representing the Adelaide Hills in 2012. (and lately a formidable Kiwi or two) in Our thanks to all the judges in this tasting a diverse line-up of who did a sterling job evaluating the styles and prices, many wines across the numerous price numbering over categories. Where the numbers allowed, 580 wines. we separated the shiraz predominant We have been blends into their own categories, otherwise judging Australian they were combined in straight shiraz and shiraz for the 35 years blends categories within a price zone. of publication of this What fascinated me was how trends magazine but it has became evident from both a vintage, only been the last eight years blends versus straight varietals and from a that we have sourced iconic price point of view as the tasting evolved. wines from the old world. Added to that we have also purchased First, from a price point of view there are some really good bargains around at the the top iconic under $20 level, but invariably they were from Australian wines the outstanding 2012 vintage. In the 2012, normally not $10 - $15 Shiraz category we had all 12 wines entered into any recommended, followed by the same result in competitions, giving a fascinating “too hot the 2012, $15 - $20 Shiraz category. This is to handle” head-to-head competition. unheard of! It bodes well for the future when Over the years we have had some the big guns bring out their aged 2012s. The interesting results with the Rhone Valley’s judges commented that these wines would E.Guigal winning in 2008 and Chateau also be worth putting away; amazing at this Clape equal top in 2010, with the other six/ price level. (Note: this only relates to the seven years dominated by Australian shiraz straight shiraz categories at this price, not winners, particularly from South Australia, the blends which fell short with a number of although the Seppelt St Peters from Victoria’s forward wines.) We saw few 2012 wines at Grampians triumphed in 2011. Generally we the higher price levels as these are generally think of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale still in barrel – but watch out! blockbusters as being at the pinnacle of shiraz quality and that certainly was true of Second, from a shiraz blends point of view the Wolf Blass Platinum Barossa Valley win (I have already commented on the under $20 in 2006, The Old Faithful McLaren Vale win blends) the next block of wines occurred in 2007, and back to the Barossa for a Grant at the $20 - $25 Shiraz Blends category Burge Filsell win in 2013. But other winners where the judges were pleased with the have come from the Clare Valley; Annie’s general freshness of the wines, followed Lane Coppertrail in 2009, Hardy’s HRB by the $25 - $30 Shiraz Blends category, where only half were recommended. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 53

Here, our judges commented on the over compete with the straight shiraz varietal end with great potential in the future as reserveenthusiasm of the winemakers in their wines, sometimes successfully, sometimes wines come on stream. The lambasted 2011oak addition regime where some clearly not. Not surprisingly it was the quality of vintage (included by us) maybe needs agot excited by the fine 2010 vintage and the added blend, whether it was cabernet bit of a reality check as we did find somemay have over reacted with a heavy hand. or grenache, or some other added varietal excellent wines from that vintage but a bitHowever, they also rated the best in this that decided the end quality of the wine. more searching is required. Generally theseflight as “excellent”. Going up the price were better served as “lunch wines” ratherladder we see a smattering of shiraz blends Finally, from a vintage point of view I have than wines of greater complexity. It does covered the great value 2012s at the cheaperT H E P A N E L I S T S (left to right): Adam Clay, Eddie Bonato, Adam Jarvis, Andrew Locke, Mark Lloyd, Kevin Glastonbury, Ryan Waples, David Fleming,Mark Thwaites, Phillip John, Phil Reedman MW, Wolf Blass AM, BVK, Jack Walton, Shane Harris, Luke Steele, Simon Parker, Brian Miller and Winestate Editor Peter Simic.54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Zseem that the cream rises to the top and the At the end of six days of exhaustive THE JUDGES TOP 10better winemakers made the better wines. judging all the five-star wines judgedThere were differences from regions with during the week were brought back and 1. Grant Burge Filsell BarossaEast Coast wineries tending to produce more put up again in a trophy judging to find Shiraz 2010 $45.95earthy wines with tough tannins and less rich the top 10 wines and ultimate Grandfruit, while the West had no such problems. Champion. Our senior show judging panel 2. Exile Barossa ValleyFor the 2010 wines (generally regarded as a this year included legendary winemaker Shiraz 2008 $750great year) judges said that the cheaper wines Wolf Blass, Phil Reedman MW andwere forward and already edging past their Chairman of Judges at the Brisbane Wine 3. Craggy Range Le Soluse by date, while moving to middle ground Show, Philip John. And what a task they Hawkes Bay Syrah 2011 $99.95prices oak became an issue as winemakers had without fear or favour, putting someover extracted and over oaked their wines. great value wines to the fore and holding 4. Saltram Mamre BrookHowever, some of our best wines also came the line when it came to revealing the Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010 $38from this vintage where vibrancy of fruit came scores on some of our iconic producers.to the fore and when balanced with appropriate 5. Fox Creek Reserveoak levels produced superb wines. For the Congratulations to all our category McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011 $702009 and 2008 wines oak extraction was an winners, top 10 champions and ultimateissue as winemakers pushed the envelope to Grand Champion, the superb Grant Burge 6. E. Guigal La Landonnebuild blockbusters, not always succeeding in 2010 Filsell Shiraz, but above all to the Cote-Rotie Syrah 2008 $445their aims. There were some “rippers”, said the many other wineries who succeeded injudges, but oxidative ageing sometimes took having their wines recommended in what 7. Sanguine Estate Progenythe place of fruit vibrancy. has to be one of the toughest competitions Heathcote Shiraz 2012 $20 in the world. 8. Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna South Australia Shiraz 2010 $37.99 9. Taylors Clare Valley Shiraz 2012 $19 10. Rosemount Estate Little Berry McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 $20 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 55

1ST PLACEA METHOD INTHE MADNESSThe 2010 vintage was a greatyear and it has all of those ripeblackberry and blackcurrantaromas infused with rich vanillaand milk chocolate notes.NIGEL HOPKINS The 10ha Filsell vineyard, which was sold by tender, was owned by RichardWHEN GRANT BURGE bought the and Valerie Filsell, who were retiring from their business and wanted to sell a portionFilsell vineyard in 1989 there were many, of their vineyard. They were old familyincluding his wife Helen, who thought he friends of Burge who had made wine fromwas crazy. that vineyard, which had been planted in 1920, and he knew how good its fruit was. “At the time it was the highest price paid As part of his tender, he also pledgedper acre for any Barossa vineyard,” Burge that he would name the vineyard after thesays. “I paid $10,000 an acre when the Filsell family.going rate was normally $2-3000 an acre.” “The Filsell vineyard has a unique place It’s an investment that has paid off in the history of the Barossa Valley andhandsomely with the internationally Grant Burge Wines,” Burge says of theacclaimed Filsell Shiraz - and this year’s more than 90-year-old vines that makewinner of Winestate’s World’s Greatest up one of the largest patches of historicalShiraz Challenge, scoring ahead of a varietal fruit in the Barossa. “This is ahost of Australia’s pricier and more high very special piece of Barossa history:profile wines. an old vineyard, planted in the traditional style, and still bearing exceptional While it’s possible to make poor wine out quality fruit. It’s more about quality thanof good grapes, it’s impossible to make yield. Last year we picked 1½ tonnesgreat wine out of poor grapes, and the to the acre, and in most years it’s neverFilsell Shiraz is testament to that. Burge more than 2½ tonnes, so it’s relativelycredits 60 per cent of its success to the very low yielding.vineyard after which it’s named, with thewinemaker, no matter how skilled, takingthe balance.56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZGRANT BURGE FILSELL BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2010 “We are lucky to have this patch of fruit. or so other wines you don’t expect your which may have had “a slight influence”Year after year the quality of the fruit from chances to be especially good. But then, in its show success. Even so he describesFilsell vineyard is exceptional,” Burge 2010 was an exceptional vintage - and it the 2010 Filsell Shiraz as having incrediblesays. “It is one of the few significant all depends on how your particular wine depth of colour and a “rare purity of fruit”survivors of the vine pull scheme of the stacks up on the day.” in the bouquet. Released after three yearsearly 1980s and it crams character into in the bottle, making the 2010 Filsell theeach berry.” Filsell has often been described as the current release, Burge still expects it will younger brother to Meshach, which is reward cellaring for up to 15 years. “The Grant Burge is no stranger to success. also sourced from the Filsell vineyard, but 2010 vintage was a great year and it has allA fifth-generation Barossa vigneron and there are significant differences between of those ripe blackberry and blackcurrantwinemaker, he has been one of the most the two wines. Although some critics have aromas infused with rich vanilla and milkrespected and innovative forces in the described the Filsell as “made in a way chocolate notes,” he says. “The palate isAustralian wine industry. that hasn't really changed in years… beautifully weighted, with optimal balance like Grange” and “anything but cool and between concentrated fruit flavours, sweet “We’ve now won five major trophies, 22 modern”, Burge is more likely to apply spices, tannins and acidity.”gold medals and 47 silver medals since these descriptions to his Meshach,Filsell’s release in 1992,” he says. But he which is chosen for its exceptional As another wine critic describes it,doesn’t take this sort of recognition of his concentration, with less emphasis on the Filsell represents the “best of bothwines for granted. fruit-driven flavours and built to last 10-16 worlds…substantial, yet the fruit has an years to be at its peak. Meshach Shiraz is elegance…arguably the most poised, “After we won the Jimmy Watson Trophy held by the winery for around five years controlled wine from the Grant Burgea year ago, one of the judges told me before release, with the 2008 vintage only stable for some time.”that on the day our wine was seamless. I now being released.was told exactly the same this time (after At around $40 a bottle, it’s little wonderthe World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge), Burge says the more fruit-driven style of that Burge adds: “We regard the Filsell asthat it won on the day against some other the Filsell may be more in tune with the our best value for money wine.” Which, nosensational wines. It really came out of current fashion for cool-climate shiraz, doubt, is why it sells out every year.the blue and when you’re up against 700 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 57

2NDPLACE EXILE MAKES A ‘MAIN STREET’ APPEARANCE EXILE IS AND ALWAYS HAS BEEN 100 PER CENT BAROSSA, ALTHOUGH CAN BE SOURCED FROM DIFFERENT SUB REGIONS OF THE BAROSSA. NIGEL HOPKINS heritage winery building and a surrounding small vineyard were not included in the sale. THE COLONIAL ESTATE’S “Our mindset was that brands with history 2008 Exile Shiraz, which was runner-up and prestige have a strong place in the in Winestate’s World’s Greatest Shiraz market place still, amongst a sea of BOB'S Challenge, was named after founder (buyer own brands) and new concept Jonathan Maltus’ favourite CD from his brands created by major retailers,” says favourite group - Exile On Main Street, by co-owner John Harris who, with his partner the Rolling Stones. Damien Lister, run the company from the Barossa Valley. Lister, who runs his own It’s an appropriate name given that The consultancy company, is also connected Colonial Estate is hardly a “main street” with online discounter Get Wines Direct. wine company, having arisen from the “We have spent the large part of the past ashes of a company founded in 2002 by five years building up a reputation of Bordeaux winemaker Maltus that went into making award-winning wines, which we feel liquidation a few years later. Maltus, who is the key to succeed in a market which has aimed at making Australian wines using been so difficult over the past few years,” European winemaking methods, certainly Harris says. “The key brands that we have left the company with some evocative been able to achieve this with is Normans labels - Emigre, Explorateur, Expatrie and Wines, which this year celebrates 160 years Enchanteur among them. The Colonial of winemaking, The Colonial Estate and Estate brand was purchased by Lyndoch- Songlines Estate.” based Prestige World Wine, a company formed in 2008 which also owns and Harris points to the extraordinary national operates several brands, including Normans and international show success that’s been Wines and Songlines Estate. The original achieved, both under their tenureship58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Z EXILE BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ 2008of the brands and under their previous flavour in line with our old world philosophy”. work with fantastic assistance from hands-onmanagement, with a current tally of more Most of the fruit for the 2008 Exile Shiraz winemaking consultants.”than 250 trophies and medals since thecompany’s formation. The 2002 vintage was sourced from a single dry-grown A feature of Maltus’ early Exile winesof Exile Shiraz won 95 points from Robert vineyard planted in 1880, the last surviving has been continued, with the use of twoParker and has since won trophies and block located in Nuriootpa just behind the sorting tables - one for bunches before theygold medals on 10 occasions, including a Penfolds winery surrounded on all sides went through the destemmer, and one fortrophy and gold medal at the AWC 2011 by residential housing. Comprising 85 per individual berries after destemming.Vienna Wine Show (for the 2009 vintage) cent shiraz, 5 per cent grenache and 10and double gold at the 2012 San Francisco per cent mourvedre, its vines are trellised in “The wine was fermented in woodenInternational Wine Show (2010 vintage). some areas and in others left as bush vines. vats imported from Cognac after extreme cold maceration,” Harris says. “Then it “Currently all Colonial Estate labels are still “Exile is and always has been 100 per went through malolactic in new Frenchin production and over the past few years cent Barossa, although can be sourced oak and aged for 24 months before finalwe have been using the awards and reviews from different sub regions of the Barossa, barrel selection was made prior to bottlingwe have received to help push us back into including a block in Greenock and another with minimal filtration. Usually we gradea strong position in the marketplace and in Eden Valley, depending on the year,” a wine up to 10 times during the ageingestablish new distribution both here and Harris adds. “The vines that make up the period and select each barrel individuallyabroad,” Harris says. “We have been able 2008 Exile were pruned severely and to ensure only the best parcels make theto achieve fantastic success domestically received two runs of green harvesting, finally final blend for Exile.”and abroad with our new distribution partner producing one to two tonnes to the acre.based in the UK, Bibendum, one of the Our consultant winemaker (whom Harris “The philosophy for us is simple,” Harriscountry’s finest distributors.” declined to name) is the person responsible, adds. “Great wines are made in the along with her team, for the wine although vineyard, and the relationship between With no winery of its own, Harris says The I am involved in the process and give final winemaker and vigneron is the mostColonial Estate now contract processes the blend approval. I personally now oversee important part of the process. If you get thefruit and “aims to achieve wines of unmatched the winemaking of all our wines although we fruit right in the vineyard then winemaking is the easy bit.” September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 59

3RDPLACE STAR SYRAH SHINES BRIGHT THE EARLY-PICKED SYRAH EQUALLED MOST OTHERS HARVESTED THAT YEAR, BUT THE LATER HARVESTED LE SOL WAS GLORIOUS.MICHAEL COOPER Appointed chief winemaker at Craggy Range in early 2012, Matt Stafford was theAT FIRST GLANCE, it’s not a big first recipient of the Inspiring New Zealanders Wine Award, sponsored by Air New Zealand,surprise that Craggy Range Le Sol 2011, which enabled him to tour the great winethe latest release of the celebrated Hawke’s regions of France in 2008. In the Rhone Valley,Bay winery’s flagship syrah, placed third in Stafford visited such high profile producersWinestate’s World’s Greatest Syrah & Shiraz as Philippe Guigal and Jean-Louis Chave.Challenge. The 2006 vintage of Le Sol won One of his mentors, Marlborough winemakerthe trophy for runner-up shiraz in our 2008 John Belsham, says Stafford believes “thatWine of the Year Awards, and two years vineyard site and soil are the most importantago the 2009 vintage scooped the trophies features in creating quality wine, and aimsfor top shiraz/syrah and Winestate’s overall for a product which captures in the bottle thechampion Wine of the Year. essence of where it was created”. But given the scale of the two countries’ For Le Sol, that means the arid, ultraplantings, it’s a “shock horror” result. free-draining soils of the Gimblett Gravels,While Australia has 40,000ha of shiraz, which yield enticingly floral, elegant syrahs,NZ has just 400ha of the same variety crammed with vibrant, black fruit flavours and(where it is known by its traditional name the aromas of freshly cracked black pepper.in the Rhone Valley - syrah). Stafford’s predecessor as Craggy Range’s chief winemaker, Rod Easthope, also found One of the country’s most talked-about red syrah especially rewarding. “We can makewines in recent years, Craggy Range Le Sol Bordeaux-style blends that look very much(The Soil) has helped to set a new standard like the wines of Bordeaux. But the better wefor New Zealand syrah - intensely varietal, with make syrah, the more it looks as if it has comebottomless depth. A bold, opulent style, it is from us and nowhere else,” he says.muscular and densely flavoured, yet also freshand vibrant, with great power and personality.60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Z CRAGGY RANGE LE SOL HAWKES BAY SYRAH 2011 Syrah was well known in New Zealand a and a Master of Wine, sums up the style his young colleague, Smith brought incentury ago. Government viticulturist S.F. of Le Sol as “a cross-dresser between the the bulk for Block 14 Syrah (now labelledAnderson wrote in 1917 that shiraz was lushness and ripeness of Australia, and Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Syrah), leavingbeing “grown in nearly all our vineyards the poise, balance and elegance of the the rest until Wisor got the dehydration he(but) the trouble with this variety has northern Rhone”. sought. The early-picked syrah equalledbeen an unevenness in ripening its fruit”. most others harvested that year, but theToday’s winegrowers understand that Launched from the 2001 vintage, Le Sol later harvested Le Sol was glorious.”syrah demands sites that are relatively swiftly generated international acclaim.hot during the day and retain the heat at Robert Parker, the influential American After a cold spring and warm, wetnight. It achieves ripeness in Hawke’s critic, gave the 2002 vintage 94 points summer, the short 2011 growing seasonBay late in the season, at about the same out of 100. “All of syrah’s characteristics gave “intensely flavoured syrahs that aretime as cabernet sauvignon. To curb its - smoke, liquorice, pepper, blackberries distinctly peppery, pure fruited and withnatural vigour, stony, dry, low-vigour and currants - are present in this beautifully lovely fine tannin,” says Craggy Range.sites are crucial. At Craggy Range, the knit, pure, concentrated 2002,” he says. Densely planted in the most gravelly partsgravelly soils “keep the growth and crop of the vineyard, the vines are an old clonelevels of these old clone syrah vines The 2001 to 2004 vintages of Le Sol of syrah believed to have been in Newin check and provide warmth in the were made by American Doug Wisor, Zealand since the early nineteenth century.autumn, a critical factor in developing who was killed in a kite-surfing accident The grapes were harvested by hand atthe enormous character and presence in October 2004. Wisor’s key contribution 23.7 brix; the juice was fermented in tanksthis wine has”. to Le Sol was outlined by Craggy Range and open-top oak cuves; and the wine in a newsletter shortly before he died. was matured for 18 months in French oak The winemaker’s goal is “to absolutely “In 2001, Craggy was about to harvest barriques (35 per cent new).fill the palate and overwhelm the senses its first syrah in what was a tricky vintagewith the viscosity and intensity of fruit weather-wise. Years of Hawke’s Bay Sold in 18 countries, from Australia,only possible from low-cropping, late- experience had Smith ready to pull it China, the US and the UK to Brazil,harvested vines”. Steve Smith, the in before things got worse. Stubbornly, Dubai and Russia, this majestic winecompany’s wine and viticulture director, Wisor insisted it hang out longer to be is recommended by Craggy Range for fully ripened. Striking a compromise with cellaring up to a decade. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 61

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTHE STATS UNDER $10 $10-$15 $15-$20that count Shot in the Dark Brookland Valley Verse 1 Taylors Clare ValleyNUMBER TASTED: 582 South Australia Shiraz Petite Margaret River Shiraz 2012 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $19 Sirah 2012 HHHH $9.99 HHHH1/2 $14.99NUMBER AWARDED: 367% awarded: 63.1%NUMBER FIVE STARS(Gold Award): 12% awarded: 2.1%NUMBER FOUR& HALF STARS(High Silver Award): 39% awarded: 6.7%NUMBER FOUR STARS(Silver Award): 86% awarded: 14.8%NUMBER THREE& HALF STARS(High Bronze Award): 66% awarded: 11.3%NUMBER THREE STARS(Bronze Award): 161% awarded: 27.7%$30-$35 $35-$50 $50-$75 $ 7 5 - $ 10 0The Gate by Shingleback Grant Burge Filsell Barossa Fox Creek Reserve Craggy Range Le SolMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $45.95 McLaren Vale Shiraz Hawkes Bay Syrah 2011HHHH1/2 $34.95 2011 HHHHH $70 HHHHH $99.9562 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Z$20-$25 $25-$30 TnOePwWzINeaESlandSanguine Estate Progeny Tenafeate Creek 1 Craggy Range Le Sol Hawkes BayHeathcote Shiraz Petite Sirah Basket Press One Tree Hill Syrah 2011 $99.95 NZ2012 HHHHH $20 Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 $25 2 Aurora Vineyard The Legacy Central Otago$ 10 0 - $ 2 0 0 $200+ Syrah 2011 $42Peter Lehmann Exile Barossa Valley Shiraz 3 CJ Pask Declaration Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2009 $50Stonewell Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHHH $220 4 Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2012 $342009 HHHH1/2 $110 5 Goldie Waiheke Island Syrah 2012 36 6 Nanny Goat Vineyards Central Otago Syrah 2012 $36 7 Craggy Range Hawkes Bay Syrah 2011 $31.95 NZ 8 Coopers Creek Reserve Hawkes Bay Syrah 2010 $45 NZ 9 Saint Clair Premium New Zealand Syrah 2012 26.50 fTrOaPnWceINES 1 E. Guigal La Landonne Cote-Rotie Syrah 2008 $445 2 E. Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis Cote-Rotie Syrah Viognier 2009 $150 3 E. Guigal La Mouline Cote-Rotie Syrah Viognier 2008 $445 4 E. Guigal d’Ampuis Cote-Rotie Syrah 2008 $240 5 Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone Syrah 2011 $20 6 Labeye France Syrah 2011 $12 sToOuP tWhINaEmS erica 1 Cono Sur Chile Syrah 2011 $9 2 Casillero Del Diablo Reserva Chile Shiraz 2010 $14 3 Maycas Del Limari Reserva Chile Syrah 2009 $20 sToOuP tWhINaEfrican Boekenhoutskloof South African Syrah 2009 $69.99 WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIII STARTS PAGE 86.

HKTDC Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits FairASIA’S TOP FLOURISHING Buyers from the Chinese mainland will find Other highlights of the show include:WINE EVENT that suppliers are here in Hong Kong to make the most of the city’s reputation as the · Fine Wine Tasting – opportunities toThe wine industry in Asia, especially the major gateway to the mainland market. meet with some of the world’s mostChinese mainland, is flourishing. Not famous wine-makers and taste theironly is there growing interest in wine, but WINE WORLD SPARKLING superb wines.there is increasing needs in fine wines as IN ONE-STOPconsumers become more well-educated · Wine Industry Conference – a key eventin wine appreciation. The HKTDC Hong All manner of wines and spirits and related featuring insights from experts on aKong International Wine & Spirits Fair 2013 products and services are on show at the range of wine-related topics.taps into this demand for quality wine fair, making this a one-stop shop for theand spirits as well as leveraging on Hong international drinks business. The event · Ice Bar – dedicated to spirits, cocktailsKong’s reputation as a wine-trading and covers a wide array of wine varieties, catering and sake, and featuring cocktailwine education hub. to all the different tastes in the market. demonstrations from brand ambassadors.The partner country for the 2013 edition of the VALUE-ADDED EVENTS · Wine Education – with a focus onshow is Spain – a country with a rich heritage cultivating appreciation of wine andin wine-making. There will be a pavilion The fair is not just a trading platform, but also providing training for professions,dedicated to Spanish wine companies, and embraces other aspects of the wine and the zone includes fine wine tastingthere will also be a focus on Spain in many of spirits business. The 2012 edition featured sessions master classes, seminars andthe fair’s wine events and activities. almost 60 various events, and the 2013 show cocktail demonstrations.The wine fair was crowded with trade visitors and wine loversPERFECT GLOBAL will continue the varied programme of wine EXPANDING YOURCONNECTIONS PLATFORM tastings, seminars, forums, conferences, and BUSINESS CONTACTS networking events.The 2012 show featured over 950 exhibitors Hong Kong International Wine & Spiritsfrom 36 countries & regions and drew The Cathay Pacific Hong Kong Fair helps you build up contacts withmore than 20,000 buyers from 80 countries International Wine & Spirit Competition a range of business networking events& regions, underlining the event’s global is a companion event to the prestigious held during the show. Cocktail reception,reach. It provides a place for buyers to meet London-based International Wine & Spirit gala dinner, happy hour events andsuppliers representing Old World and New Competition(IWSC), geared to the taste wine tastings will definitely give youWorld wines, encompassing wine makers and consumption preferences of the Asian the opportunity to meet and relax in thefrom Asia. Asian suppliers are winning markets. Last year’s event garnered a company of wine-makers, industry officialsplaudits for their wines, and this represents record of more than1,800 entries, and and the international media.a new and exciting direction in the market. 2013 is also expected to perform well. HKTDC HONG KONG

Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Asia Top Sommelier Summit Wine & Spirit CompetitionA series of wine-tasting sessions, The event offers the wine from around the globe forums and master classes A lot of networking opportunities Wine Industry ConferenceINTERNATIONAL WINE Register FREE admission badge NOW!& SPIRITS FAIR INFO Trade visitors, register now for your FREE admission badge through one of the following three channels:Fair Date: 7-9 Nov 2013Venue: Hong Kong Convention Websiteand Exhibition Centre register on or before 16 October for buyers from outside Hong Kong1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, Hong and on or before 31 October for local buyers to receive a free admissionKong (Harbour Road Entrance) badge by mail; orOrganiser: Hong Kong TradeDevelopment Council Smartphone Info Sitewebsite: www.hktdc.com/ex/ download HKTDC Mobile at iPhone App Store,hkwinefair/14 BlackBerry App World or Google Play; or Mobile Info Site visit hktdc.com/wap/fashionss/T118

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELThere’s no doubt that the concept of anything fresh and I will do whatever fully-fledged Paleo Cafe across the way.BYO restaurant is fast becoming a thing I can to find the very best available. Chef and owner Tracy Hirst has beenof the past. Rising overheads, including My food represents my culinary soul cooking at sister-in-law Gillian Hirst’ssky high rents and wage costs mean and should always be healthy, modern Garden cafe at East Brisbane for the pastthat restaurants can no longer afford and simple, uniquely prepared and few years and now she is striking out withto operate by just selling food and imaginatively presented,” says Boudon. a pleasant (and always packed) cafe withcharging a corkage fee, even if some Dishes that best represent this are his a Paleolithic ethos, albeit with a modernperceive it to be steep. Enter Sprout spanner crab pannacotta with yuzu, touch. The idea is to only use produceBYO French Cafe at Auchenflower, in and the fragrant portabello and water that was available prior to the introductionBrisbane’s inner west; a quaint shop chestnut raviolo with beetroot and ginger of agriculture, that is the Paleolithic erafront, a lovely old pine floor and tongue broth. 111 Haig Rd, Auchenflower; of some 10,000 years ago. No grains,and groove walls decorated with striking phone (07) 3870 3030. dairy products, legumes or sugar can bemodern art. Mismatched scrubbed used - only grass-fed meats, wild-caught Also in the inner west, this time Caxton St, seafood, eggs, nuts and seeds, and somepine kitchen tables and replica Louis in Petrie Terrace, in the heart of the famous fruits and vegetables are included onGhost chairs add to the old and new “Cauldron district” just up from Suncorp the ever-changing menu. And while thejuxtaposition of the room’s decor, soft Stadium, is Cut, a new steakhouse run notion may bring up images of cavemenlighting and little bunches of wild flowers by the Gambaro family. The Gambaro sitting around a fire devouring legs ofadd warmth and, by day, a counter of name is synonymous with seafood. The meat, you won’t find anything quite thatfreshly made patisserie adds the sweet, family opened a small fish and chip shop rustic here. Hirst’s formidable skills asvanillin tones of someone’s atmospheric on the site of Cut in the 1920s, with son a chef of 20-plus years means that thisfarmhouse kitchen. For the past year Michael establishing Gambaro’s Seafood is contemporary Paleo - a neatly carvedand a half Sprout has been under the Restaurant across the road in the ‘60s, line of avocado sits over a fine dice ofstewardship of chef and owner Olivier bringing his sons, John, Donny and Frank prawn and tarragon with three plumpBoudon. Born in the small French town on board once they were old enough. grilled king prawns as garnish, hints ofof Aurillac, Boudon began his culinary John and his brothers are now taking cinnamon emanate from the coconutcareer in France before he took on Gambaros to the next level with a completethe world, or at least big chunks of it. renovation and adding a 68-room hotel and five-spice crusted chicken on AsianHe has worked and run restaurants above the restaurant and function facility. slaw, and the seafood hotpot, servedin places like Madagascar, Poland, And they’ve also opened Cut across the with a coconut pancake, is brimmingLondon, the US, Moscow and China. road complete with dining room, bar with fish and seafood in a creamy, chilli-He has been Madonna’s personal chef and several private dining, and meeting spiked broth. A cabinet displays dailyin the US, a TV cooking show host in facilities that cater for corporate needs. made salads and sweet items, and singlePoland and has had a stint in China Chef Lukas McEwan comes out of the origin and Fair Trade teas are availableas a restaurant consultant. Boudon prestigious Rockpool stable in Sydney with house-made almond and coconuthas now settled in Brisbane but his and you can see Perry-esque stamps in milk as alternatives to cow’s milk. Cornertime abroad has impacted hugely on the XO sauce he steeps beef short ribs Florence and Macquarie streets, Teneriffe;his culinary concepts as he infuses in, as well as the meltingly tender pork phone (07) 3252 5960.international trends and flavours with ribs that are deliciously caramelized; thelocal Queensland produce. “I love juicy meat literally falling off the bone. Left: Sprout BYO French Cafe interior. Stanbroke Beef is the linchpin of the menu Right: Sprout dishes. and there are several cuts of organic, grain fed Angus and wagyu to choose from, with your choice of all the most popular accoutrements - wild mushroom, red wine, bearnaise and peppercorn sauces, and chunky onion rings, creamy mash and mushy peas as sides. 36 Caxton St, Petrie Terrace; phone: (07) 3367 2886. Primal Pantry is another newbie, this time in the inner northern suburb of Teneriffe, near the river and close to the Powerhouse Arts Complex. This leafy little enclave is also home to Beccofino, one of the city’s favourite Italians that now has a66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINMelbourne has just passed through a chilly bistro and the restaurant, where the bistro a stool by the bar, or a corner table withwinter that saw us seeking respite in warm is perfect for families, the restaurant is a live music in the background and a pint orpubs with crackling fire places, and some little quieter and is respite from the bustle two in hand. 616 Elizabeth St, Melbourne;new decent drinking and eating holes of the bar and bistro. The menu is large phone (03) 9348 2957.joined the cool landscape, too, good pubs but easy to navigate, broken up into threeand wine bars with relaxed surrounds but a main sections titled Shared, Mains and The Prince Wine Store in Southstrong professional approach to how they Pizzas. The Shared section is far more than Melbourne, owned and operated by wineoperate. As the weather warms up, the small bites, veal and parmesan meatballs, professionals, Philip Rich, Alex Wilcoxfireplaces die down and the beer gardens freshly shucked Coffin Bay oysters and and Michael McNamara, has opened aand courtyards slowly start to fill. The pale herb-crusted lamb cutlets are highlights, beautiful wine bar next door to the wineMelburnian tries to get a bit of sun with a and mains cover the gamut of good pub shop called Belotta. The trio have calleddecent glass of wine in hand. The Plough food; steak sandwiches, a classic (and savvy consultants to help them set upHotel in Footscray in Melbourne’s inner- huge) chicken parmy or good fish and the bar, complete with a private roomwest closed its doors for over a year but chips. With a focus on local produce, you upstairs. Restaurateur Gerald Diffey fromre-opened in May this year with a serious may find pork and fennel sausages frommakeover and new owners. It’s been Benalla or grain-fed Black Angus Riverina Gerald’s Bar in Carlton and Brooks in theembraced by the community, raising the porterhouse and the pizzas are well-made CBD has advised on the space, designprofile of the pub as it was something of a with quality topping, one in particular, the and logistics, and chef Brigitte Hafnerdive and is now a friendly, well-maintained Salsiccia is a delicious mix of fior di latte from Gertrude Street Enoteca in Fitzroyplace to meet, good for families, locals (cow’s milk mozzarella), pork and fennel consults on the menu. Expect charcuterie,and visitors. Built in 1868, the building sausage, artichoke, parsley and cherry a crustacean bar and an amazing wine listhad grown tired but has been given a new tomatoes. Backed up by a smart, Victorian- of about 50 bottles and 12 by the glass, butenergy and look from the owners of The only beer and wine list, the new Plough if nothing takes your fancy you can chooseKent Hotel in North Carlton, Joe Setaro sees the evolution of a Footscray icon a bottle from the shop and for a smalland Tony Adamo. The Kent has been and it’s absolutely worth a visit as a great additional fee enjoy it in Belotta. 181 Bank St,a much-loved hub for many years in the starting point, particularly if you’re keen to South Melbourne; phone (03) 9078 8381.inner-north, so the professional pedigree start exploring Melbourne’s burgeoningwas already established. Setaro and inner-west. 333 Barkly St, Footscray; Above: Belotta interior and food display.Adamo joined forces with their manager phone (03) 2687 2878. Think of the termfrom the Kent, Melissa Nolte, as the “Irish Pub” and you may conjure up ideasthird partner in The Plough and have of franchises, filled with Gaelic cliches,reinvigorated the place and reignited but The Last Jar is just the opposite ofinterest from the community. The interior, this. Pints of Guinness and Kilkenny beer,designed and mostly built by Setaro and freshly shucked oysters, smoked mackerelhis wife, Tina, is fresh and bright, with pate and crispy pigs ear punctuate theexposed lightbulbs, white tiles, bare menu in the corner building on the borderwooden tables and black trim, it’s a modern of Melbourne’s CBD. The food, created byand welcoming room that’s fashionable chef and co-owner of The Last Jar, Timwithout being too trendy. The same menu Sweeney, makes much of the elementsis served in the two dining areas, the in-house - house-churned butter, soda breads, hand-cut chips - as well as a great selection of steaks from reputable local producers (and of course, there’s an Irish stew). The pub has an instantly welcoming feel, nurtured by Sweeney’s partner, Irish native Siobhan Dooley, who runs the floor. On weekends, they do a full Irish breakfast - blood pudding, fried bread, the lot - most of it also made in-house. Dooley gets you settled into the cosy room with its wooden finishes, nooks and crannies; there’s a cute beer garden upstairs out the back, which is a treat when the sun’s out. But when the weather’s cold, it’s hard to beat September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 67

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGSydney is in the grip of a wave of pub of the cocktail menu and great selection of plates were licked clean and their nannasmakeovers, American-style diners and south- wines by the glass are the sliders - three for would have been proud. Miss Peaches,of-the-border eateries. The Balmain Hotel, $16 - topped with five spice pork belly with Marlborough Hotel, 201 Missenden Rd,once a rowdy watering hole for wharfies, is a pepper relish and pickled cucumber and Newtown; phone (02) 9557 7280.good case in point. Built in 1869 as the West wagyu beef and cheddar with green tomatoEnd Hotel, the sprawling pub is the second chutney. Share plates nicknamed Little Stuff The best Mexican meal I have ever eatenoldest in the gentrified waterfront suburb and are a major focus. We ordered a combo of the was at the Club Med archaeological villaunderwent a four-month renovation courtesy crispy raw salmon taco and salt and pepper near the Mayan ruins of Coba in the Yucatan.of Nick Wills of the Balmain Pub Group. The squid. Then it was time to move on to the Mejico in downtown Pitt St doesn’t matchman who guided the rejuvenation of the self-explanatory Big Stuff, including po boy that stellar dining experience but it’s streetsFour in Hand in Paddington, the Riverview with kimchi coleslaw, BBQ Texas rump steak ahead of Tex-Mex. Packed with young CBDin Birchgrove and The Woolwich Pier Hotel. with fried potato, bacon and jalapeno salad, workers in need of after work replenishment,Instead of gutting the property and refilling the and char-grilled jerk salmon with Chinese one of the most popular dishes is thespace with a smart but standard issue interior, broccoli and pineapple salsa. Amazingly, we guacamole made at the table using an old-the retro-inspired decor respects the integrity had room for one of the two desserts - churros fashioned mortar and pestle. Chef Danielof the building’s history juxtaposing exposed and chocolate - and made a vow to return Schai was born in Switzerland but the gypsybrick walls with vintage Hermes wallpaper for the Snickers sundae. You can’t open any in his soul has made him a dab hand atand hot pops of colour. The pink flamingo sort of restaurant in Sydney’s trendy Inner concocting salsas, ceviches and tacos thatroom features murals by Daimon Downey of West without paying close attention to the bear no resemblance to the make-your-ownthe electro-pop dance group, Sneaky Sound cocktail menu. Gun barman, Istvan Orosz, kits. Soft shells are filled with slow-cookedSystem. While Gabrielle Courtenay, the noted cranks up interest with his homemade root lamb shredded with a fork and the scallopartist, muralist and interior designer, was beer. For those who need a break from beer ceviche with pomegranate and spring onionsresponsible for the quirky, Art Deco-inspired and wine, there’s a four-course degustation is a deserved favourite with regulars. Mejico,palm tree lounge. Once owned by Sydney cocktail line-up with matching food. It comes 105 Pitt St, Sydney; phone (02) 9230 0119.“identity” Abe Saffron, the Balmain Hotel now as no surprise that it was standing room onlyhas a sleek, upbeat vibe that also attracts the from the get-go in the major bars, including Still “in town”, The Woods is a chic new the upper level West End Bar, the funky Tiki restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel.many professional couples who live in the area Bar and the biggest beer garden in Balmain Forget over-fancy hotel food, chef Hamishand their offspring. Kids meals are priced at out back. The Balmain Hotel, 74 Mullens St, Graham has created a menu and a gorgeousjust $5 between 5 and 6pm every evening. Balmain; phone (02) 9810 7500. venue that has made the city’s suits withThen it’s the turn of the adults to get the run of high-end tastes valued regulars. There’s anthe place. Brad Sloane of the Riverview, the The Marlborough Hotel in Newtown, aka emphasis on steaks and fish cooked on a2012 NSW AHA Chef of the Year, is in charge the Marly, has also acquired a new identity wood-fired grill and oven but cliches end there.of the bistro and the menu veers from West in the form of a Southern diner-style bar and Think aged sirloin on the bone, grilled babyCoast to South Pacific by way of Asia. The restaurant on the first floor. Called Miss gem and charred spring onion, marron, blacksteamed buns walk out the door as patrons Peaches, you gain access through a side garlic butter, pepperberry and fennel coleslawscoff the two for $18, “parcels” filled with red door and enter a world of blasted brick walls, and Mallee wood-roasted spatchcock,braised pork with shiitake and cuttlefish, and Beatles era furniture, black and white TVs radicchio, pine nuts and preservedPeking duck with hoi sin, cucumber and green and print fabric banquettes. It was a brass lemon. The Woods, Four Seasons Hotel,onion. Also on offer to soak up the effects monkey night on our visit, so we ordered 199 George St; phone (02) 9250 3160. the Hot Buttered Rum expertly mixed by barman James Snelgrove. Others chugged Left: The Balmain sliders. Right: The Balmain Hotel. brewskis from the first rate selection of American beers, including Brooklyn Lager and Sierra Nevada Ale. Don’t come here if you’re only feeling slightly peckish. The menu follows the old Southern grandma’s belief that you must be sick if you can’t eat half a steer. That said, there’s plenty of filling nibbles from crawfish pies to crumbed oysters. Sydney University is only a short stroll away and a couple of its football teams were tucking into other filling fare after training such as gumbo, okra jambalaya, grits and gravy, blackened fish and fried turkey legs. All the68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNIt’s an institution in Perth and has been From one of the long-established at dinner. There are two desserts and mysince 1984 under owner Warwick restaurants to the newest. Miss Kitty’s wife can’t resist the Glass of Bannofee PieLavis. Matilda Bay Restaurant began Saloon has been open a few weeks ($9), the layers of condensed milk, slicedlife simply as Matilda’s in 1968, but it as I tap these keys and it is giving the banana, chocolate and cream are a sugarhas thrived under Lavis. He is a savvy Inglewood end of Beaufort St a giddy-up. hit that I just don’t need. The maintenancerestaurateur, he is innovative and never There is little else other than a cowboy of the drinks list requires attention, theremarks time, and is not afraid to spend saddle and a moonshine pot out front to are nine beers on offer but the two wea quid to keep his place at the forefront announce that this is a North American order are not available – not clever. Theof dining in the West, even though the restaurant. Once inside the menu reads wine list is small but adequate as I don’trestaurant views across the bobbing as an American and Canadian mix, or see Miss Kitty’s as a wine drinker’s place.boats and (mostly) calm waters to Perth dude food to some. The decor is “busy It has a great feel however, although it’scity are enough to attract the fussiest eclectic”, with velvet lounge chairs, a noisy and a little dark, a few blown lightof diners. His restaurant is large, has a round ’60’s white vinyl settee and small bulbs in the pendant over our table docouple of private dining rooms as wellas the Wine Room for 20 which is aknockout, and a small group of us enjoy ajudiciously-prepared breakfast here witha recently-landed range of champagne.How about a chilled cucumber soup,toasted sourdough and Jamon Serranoas a starter? It is a palate awakenerwith a difference. Two scallops in a halfshell follow and they are sprinkled withwakami, pickled mushroom and a littlecaramel sauce - sweet and sour flavourbombs yes, but perfectly compatible withthe fizz. And finally, a small Tasmanian tables for two to a large communal table. not help. It has a theme and sticks to itsalmon fillet is poached gently in olive A long bar with an open kitchen provides and should be a hoot, especially withoil and is plated with a dusting of black the action shots in this western drama. Generation Y. 882 Beaufort St, Inglewood,quinoa and herb crust. It’s juicy, rare Many dishes are share plates and we diagonally opposite the Inglewood postin the middle and the quinoa and herb begin an early evening meal with fried office; phone (08) 9272 6669.crust adds textural crunch. It’s very pickles, ham and spiced mayo for $6.50,sympathetic food to both the wine and a piquant starter. Next a couple of hot Back to nostalgia and the Good Fortunetime of day. Anytime is a great time to wing pancakes consist of a small base Roast Duck House survives, although it’sdrink champagne but early morning is of fluffy pancake with spicy chicken, being crowded out by new development. Ithard to toss, although there were a few pickled carrot and a small dollop of still serves the best duck and pork in town.of us looking for a pillow and a quick zzz blue cheese; they are a fiery $4 each. A It’s been at its William St digs for yonks andsoon afterwards. 3 Hackett Drive, steamed buttermilk bun at $7.80 is laden is recognisable by the gallery of golden-Crawley; phone (08) 9423 5000. with house-smoked trout and some bbq bronze roasted ducks and pork hanging sauce, and is a well-flavoured, large in the front window. Nothing has changed bite-size morsel. The dish of the night is a great deal over the years, although there charcoal tamarind pork ribs at $16.80 - a is now a few casual chairs and tables on half-dozen ribs have been braised to a the path close to the busy street. Good glutinous, fall-apart, sweet intensity and Fortune sells a range of dishes for in-house finished on a charcoal grill- excellent and dining and takeaway but it is duck and good value. We try the poutine ($12), a pork the punters come for and not only revered Canadian dish of fries, gravy them, there are restaurateurs who frequent and curds. This doesn’t float our boat; it the place for fowl and pig, knowing they sinks it, the chips are not only soggy but can’t replicate the quality in their own reach a heavy, gluey consistency in the kitchens. 344 William St, Northbridge; gravy at the bottom of the bowl, great dish phone (08) 9228 3293. after a boozy night out perhaps, but not Above: Matilda Bay Restaurant and wine room. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 69

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSSpring is in the air, which means it’s time Much closer to the city centre, in fact right Meanwhile, the owner-chef at the suburbanto think about where to eat outside or in it with a setting every bit as Arcadian Dhaba at the Spice Kitchen, Ragini Dey,enjoying the alfresco delights that abound as Waterfall Gully, is the Botanic Gardens is in the spotlight with a new cookbookin Adelaide at this time of year. Restaurant. Anyone who hasn’t visited these (Spice Kitchen, Hardie Grant Books) that gardens in recent years should seek to do so has captured widespread attention. It’s One place that’s a little off the radar for as soon as possible. Not only is this a brilliant taken Ragini some time to get this sort ofmany people is Utopia, located at the top time of year to visit from a horticultural recognition, but it’s well-deserved as sheof Waterfall Gully at the base of a year- point of view, the gardens themselves was the first Indian chef in South Australia toround waterfall. Even on wintry weekdays have been maintained immaculately and break from the usual typical Indian menu. Asthe place is well populated by walkers and have seen development in several areas, you enter the restaurant lives up to its nameday trippers, perhaps surprised to find including a new garden shop and cafe. with a touch/feel/taste display of aroundsuch rugged beauty barely a 15-minute The Botanic Gardens Restaurant hasn’t 40 of the spices used by its spice queendrive from the city centre. The original 1912 changed much over the years, although proprietor. It sets the scene for a menutearooms were built in the style of a Swiss inside it now glows with all-white painted that demonstrates Ragini’s encyclopedicchalet and still feature high timber ceilings, woodwork, white chairs and tablecloths set knowledge of everything from Calcuttaexposed art nouveau beams, windows with against the sea of green outside. It’s hard to street food to regal dishes cooked in Mughaloriginal leadlighting and a welcoming open imagine a more idyllic setting for a restaurant kitchens such as the murgh Mussalmanfireplace. The outside terrace, shaded by than overlooking a large pond filled with chicken, slow-roasted over 36 hours with 36market umbrellas, is a good place from ducks and other waterbirds, approached ingredients. She’s also an expert on Indianwhich to observe the scenery, both human from an avenue of giant Moreton Bay figs, street food, her parents having written anand natural. Although traditional tea and with spreading lawns and formal gardens authoritative book on the subject.scones are still served, executive chef in all directions. Housed in the century-oldJustin Markos has added a small but original tearooms, the conservatory-style This is no “recite it with your eyes closed”sparkling contemporary lunchtime menu, restaurant takes full advantage of its location Indian menu, including dishes that read likewith starter plates to share that range from with 270-degree views of the gardens. Head an Indian regional tour guide. It’s also one ofmilk-braised pork belly on carrot puree to chef Hayley O’Brien is determined that the very few Indian restaurants that suggestfield mushroom arancini with shallot puree. wine pairings with each dish. The bestMain courses include hearty dishes such her menu takes an ethical and sustainableas slow-braised beef cheek with potato approach, using produce both from the approach is through a degustation banquetpuree and parsnip crisps, and duck leg gardens and sourced as locally as possible that ranges from Rajasthani okra and spinachconfit and roast breast with parsnip puree. in dishes such as ethically-farmed Clare pakoras and Bengal beetroot, vegetable andBreakfast goes late and over the top with Valley roast lamb rump with black lentils or peanut “chops” to South Indian spinach,the “ultimate” truffled scrambled eggs with sustainably-farmed ocean trout with almond mushroom and pumpkin uthapams anda glass of Roederer. Utopia has a good, aioli. Just don’t look outside at the duck an innovative duck and orange naan. Thesmall, contemporary wine list, with plenty pond as you tuck into the juniper-smoked spicing is well judged, with plenty of heatby the glass, but Markos will happily lead duck breast pastrami. The good wine list when you need it. You can still have theguests down to his cellar where he keeps a includes plenty by the glass. Adelaide butter chicken if you must, but what a missedsmall selection of something more special. Botanic Gardens, North Tce, Adelaide. opportunity. 252 Kensington Rd, Leabrook.Open breakfast and lunch Wednesday- Open breakfast Saturday-Sunday, lunch Open lunch Tuesday-Friday, dinner sevenSunday. 170 Waterfall Gully Rd, Waterfall Tuesday-Sunday; phone (08) 8223 3526. days; phone (08) 8431 4288.Gully, Burnside; phone (08) 8379 2488. Left: Spice Kitchen. Right: Utopia restaurant.70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au

winewords A M B A S S A D O R JEFFREY BLEICHSKYE MURTAGHOne might wonder where else the career from then-undiscovered regions. He and syrahs from Northern California andladder can take you after serving as Special was the one who introduced me to great the San Luis Obispo region, as well asCounsel to President Obama in the White Chilean, Argentinean, Spanish and of dry rieslings and ice wines from New YorkHouse, but for eminent American lawyer course Australian wines. Rolf’s motto was State. Buying American wine is a very lowJeffrey Bleich, the next step has seen him that anyone can find a good wine that costs risk, high reward proposition.embracing a challenging new life in Australia over $100. The trick is to be able to findafter being nominated and confirmed as equally great wines that cost much less. And Australian and New Zealand wines?the 24th US Ambassador to Australia in People often ask me what I recommendNovember 2009. Based in Canberra with How would you describe your here. There are simply too many greathis family, the Ambassador spent his first “wine perspective”? vineyards here to pick just one all-aroundfour months visiting every state and territory, I’m not a fussy wine drinker - I enjoy many favourite. But I will say that the reds weand hasn’t stopped since. His tenure has varietals and styles, and am always on the serve most often for special occasionsbeen marked by a strong commitment to lookout for new wines. What I like about wine are Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Vasse Felixactively expanding the alliance between tasting generally is that experimentation Cabernet, Penfolds St. Henri (and on really,Australia and the US by promoting security, is encouraged. In fact wine culture is the really special occasions - Grange), Grantadvancing free trade, supporting human opposite of soft drink culture - winemakers Burge, Peter Lehmann, Voyager and Lake’srights and fostering scientific, environmental wouldn’t want you to drink only their brand Folly. For whites, we also love the Shawand educational exchanges. Here he shares of wine. They believe you should make their & Smith Chardonnay, the Leeuwin Estatesome of his perspectives about wine. wine just one of many wines you enjoy. Chardonnay, Peter Lehmann sparkling, This also makes wine universal. Just as Tarra Warra, Yering Station and Ken Helm’sWhat were your first wine experiences? people from different nations with different amazing rieslings.I didn’t come from a wine-drinking family, so languages appreciate music, or art, orreally didn’t discover good wine until I was a performances from other cultures, wine What would you take to a desert island?young adult. My father was in the US Army in culture has no borders. People who love It depends on whether there were anyGermany and he and my Mom developed a wine are always interested in different styles cattle on the island! If there was some beeftaste for dessert wines, but not many other and varieties, and they enjoy comparing to eat, then I’d have to go with one of myvarietals. My wife Becky’s family, however, notes with people from all nations. favourite American cabernets - probablyis from Northern California and they were a big hearty Diamond Creek Gravellygreat wine lovers. They quickly got to work How have your travels influenced your Meadow. If I had lighter fare on the islandeducating me about wines, mostly so their wine experience? then, for reds I’d probably go with a Ridgedaughter wouldn’t wind up with a guy who Over the years our wine cellar has become Lytton Springs Zinfandel and for whitescouldn’t at least order a decent wine at a a little eclectic and exotic, reflecting our own - I can’t resist Kistler Chardonnay or therestaurant or choose the right wine for a experience. We love breaking out wines Rochioli Chardonnay.special occasion. So my first serious wine from our travels to share with our friends inexperiences were drinking some beautiful California because usually there’s a story Name two of your favourite cellar door/Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Santa Cruz to tell with each bottle - about the place we wineries in America.wines with Becky’s family around the dinner discovered the wine, conversations with the I like cellar doors that are unique. Thesetable when I was in my early twenties. winemaker, or a special occasion where we range from small holes in the wall to enjoyed that wine. Wine brings back happy elaborate showcases with art galleries,First wine education? memories for us, and it’s a real gift to be able tasting rooms and gift shops. Two of ourI took my first formal wine-tasting course to share those with others. favourites are Hess Vineyards, which hasback in 1991 when Becky and I were an exceptional art collection, and Stag’sliving in The Hague and I was working What is your advice about US wines? Leap - which is a very homey environmentat an international court. The instructor’s This is a perfect time to try US wines, and housed in a rustic old Victorian-era home.name was Rolf and he was an ideal some of America’s best wines are availableguide to the world of wines. Rolf was from at a very low cost. In addition, we’ve had Name two of your favourite cellar door/Norway where any alcoholic beverage some of our best growing seasons in a wineries in Australia.was apparently very expensive, so he’d long time, producing some exceptional (They’re both) in the ACT, and we visit thembecome adept at discovering great wines wines with great pinots from the Pacific often. Becky and I love the tasting room atthat were under-priced, particularly wines Northwest, exceptional zins, cabs, merlots Clonakilla, which is sparse and rustic, but72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

Tim Kirk pours excellent wines and gives consumed was a 1962 Petrus bought a wine in the first place is to drinkan in-depth tutorial on their wines and from Bordeaux that we shared it. There have been a few times wherewine generally. Our other favourite is Ken on my wife’s birthday. It was pure we bought a special wine and kept itHelm’s winery, which is a converted school nectar. In fact, we felt selfish in the cellar waiting for the absolutehouse with some facilities in the back. It’s keeping it to ourselves so we perfect time to justify opening it. It tookas charming and quirky and steeped in shared with everyone, including a while for me to figure this out, but myhistory as Ken himself. the waiter! philosophy now is when you have people who you love around you, it’s always theName the most memorable bottle of wine Where’s the most unusual place right time to break out your best stuff.you’ve ever consumed. you’ve ever consumed wine?Well, there are some bottles of wine we’ve I think (it) was at the base of the Has your time in Australia influencedhad for celebrations that are special Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. your personal wine tastes?for sentimental reasons - but I think the Becky and I were camping there Absolutely. The US, I think, is behindmost memorable tasting bottle of wine I in a tent surrounded by wild Australia in developing these big jammy lions, elephants, wildebeests shiraz and light dry rieslings, and those and cheetahs. We’d brought have become two of our favourite varietals a bottle of wine with us, but during our time here. I’m also a big fan limited ourselves to one glass of Australian shiraz viognier from both since neither one of us wanted Clonakilla and Yering Station. to have to step outside to go to the bathroom during the night! Do you keep a personal wine collection I honestly can’t recall the wine, at your family home in California? but I do remember that we held My father-in-law and I actually built a wine it in until the sun rose. cellar in our basement. Apart from him nearly blinding me with the pneumatic Can you recall what you nail gun during the construction process, opened up to mark your biggest the experience of building it ourselves professional achievement? was one of the best parts. The cellar has I think, like most parents, held up well and keeps a remarkably our children are the only constant temperature. achievements we dwell on. Professionally, I can’t think Currently, what’s the most coveted item of anything that’s given me in your wine collection? greater pride or satisfaction We bought a bottle of wine to celebrate than my current job. The night the birth of each of our children. We put I was confirmed to serve as them in the cellar the day after they were Ambassador to Australia, we pulled out born and they follow us wherever we go. a terrific bottle of Tarra Warra that I’d We plan to open them up on each of their purchased during a prior trip to Melbourne, 21st birthdays, so those are my three most to enjoy a taste of Australia that night. cherished bottles. What’s your favourite wine accessory? What do you think is the best way of We are big fans of the Le Creuset screwpull teaching wine appreciation? - it never fails and even after all these years Drinking it with friends. The best part of we still can’t quite figure out how it works. a good wine is sharing it with those you love and creating memories that you What’s the one rule you follow when will always associate with special times. it comes to selecting wines for your Learning how to differentiate the wines own consumption? and discover your favourites comes I try to remind myself that the reason we naturally after that. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 73

VF Calais V-series - auto V8 Valued at $57,647 Enter at: www.winaV8.com Terms and Conditions The Promoter is The Trustee for Harris Business Trust and The Trustee for Lister Business Trust and The Trustee for Sells Business Trust (ABN 41 066 329 203) Trading as Get Wines Direct of PO BOX 61, COTTON TREE QLD 4558 and 48 School Road, Maroochydore, Queensland, phone 1300 559 463. The promotion commences at 12:01AM Australian Eastern Standard Time (“AEST”) on 18/7/13 and closes at 11:59PM Australian Eastern Standard Time (“AEST”) on 22/10/13. The prize is a Holden VF Calais V-Series - Auto V8 – PHANTOM BLACK. The Prize incudes all on road costs and registration. Total Prize value is $57,647,00. No prize is transferable or exchangeable and cannot be taken as cash. Participation in this promotion is deemed acceptance of these Terms and Conditions. Entrants must be over the age of 18 years and provide their full name and email address to enter the promotion, and enter directly at www.winaV8.com. Only one (1) entry permitted per person. The random prize draw will take place in the presence of an independent witness at the Promoter’s office located at 48 School Road, Maroochydore, Queensland on 23/10/13 at 9.00 am. The winner will be notified in writing within two days of the draw and the winner’s name will be published on the Promoter’s Website: www.getwinesdirect.com/legals/winaV8.com on the 22/10/13 for a period of not less than 28 days. Full terms and conditions can be found on our website: www.getwinesdirect.com/legals/winaV8.com. Permit Numbers: SA: 13/1164, ACT: 13/02288, NSW: 13/1568, VIC: 13/1568.74 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example,Wines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more we will have a winemaker judge from thatprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other region because that person knows the localclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the style. We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstanding High Silverprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent Silver 18.5 - 20 98 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the HHHH Very Goodwines blind and assign a score without 18 - 18.4 96 - 97 17 - 17.9 94 - 95reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 92 - 93compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 90 - 91they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 75

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 1996 $300 2002 $85  2004 $90 1960 $1,500 Bin 60A WINES 1997 $200 2005 $75 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 1998 $260 2003 $65 2006 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $490  1999 $260 2004 $70 2007 $85 1963 $1,100 2006 $400 2000 $270 2005 $65 2008 $70 1964 $1,100 2001 $290 2006 $70 2009 $75 1965 $550  Stonewell ShirazBASS PHILLIP 2002 $300  Hill of Grace 1966 $900  1990 $90 2003 $200 1980 $250 1967 $600 1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2004 $350 2007 $55 1981 $230 1968 $550  1992 $60 2005 $230 2008 $55 1982 $220 1969 $550 1993 $651990 $75 2006 $250 1983 $220 1970 $400 1994 $551991 $90 2007 Not Released 1984 $210 1971 $720 1995 $551992 $95 2008 Not Released GIACONDA 1985 $280 1972 $400 1996 $70 2009 Not Released Chardonnay 1986 $320 1973 $400 1997 $551993 $80 2010 $200 1990 $110 1987 $220 1974 $450 1998 $801994 $110 2011 Not Released 1988 $300 1975 $400 1999 $751995 $80 2012 $210 1991 $60 1989 $260 1976 $600 2000 $70 1992 $85 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1977 $400 2001 $651996 $110 1993 $90 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1978 $400 2002 $701997 $140 CLONAKILLA 1992 $250 1979 $380 2003 $551998 $140 Shiraz Viognier 1994 $100 1993 $260 1990 $130 1980 $360 2004 $85 1990 $65 1995 $85 1994 $340 1991 $150 1981 $400 2005 $601999 $120 1993 $65 1996 $140 1995 $300 1992 $120 1982 $370 2006 $602000 $120 1994 $85 1996 $460 1993 $100 1983 $440 2007 $552001 $160 1995 $65 1997 $95 1997 $320 1994 $100 1984 $350 2008 $60 1996 $100 1998 $125 1998 $420 1995 $130 1985 $3802002 $145 1997 $130 1999 $120 1999 $380 1996 $120 1986 $520 Basket Press2003 $110 1998 $150 2001 $360 1997 $100 1987 $350 Shiraz2004 $140 1999 $55 2000 $110 2002 $440 1998 $150 1988 $350 2000 $90 2001 $110 2004 $380 1999 $130 1989 $360 1990 $1502005 $80 2001 $130 2002 $160 2005 $370 2000 $110 1990 $540 1991 $1402007 $130 2002 $130 2006 $340 2001 $130  1991 $460 1992 $952008 $85 2003 $120  2004 $190 2002 $90  1992 $360 1993 $75  2004 $120  2005 $120 Armagh Shiraz 2003 $90  1993 $360 1994 $90 2005 $110 1990 $200 2004 $100  1994 $380 1995 $90 2009 $85 2006 $100 2006 $120 1991 $180 2005 $100  1995 $370 1996 $1602010 $90 2007 $160  1992 $120 2006 $65 1996 $500 1997 $952011 $100 2008 $90 2007 $100 1993 $110 2007 $85  1997 $360 1998 $190 2009 $110  2008 $140 1994 $130 2008 $90 1998 $580 1999 $110  2010 $95 2009 Not Released 1995 $130 2009 $85 1999 $400 2000 $90  BINDI 2011 $75 2010 $130 1996 $180 2010 Not Released 2000 $420 2001 $95 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $150 2011 $90 2001 $370 2002 $120 1997 $80 Meshach 1998 $230 2002 $450 2003 $1001998 $95 1990 $100  1999 $130  MOUNT MARY 2003 $400 2004 $1001999 Not Released 1991 $85 2000 $120 Quintet 2004 $460 2005 $1002000 $150 1992 $80 2001 $140 2005 $420 2006 $110 2001 $120 1993 $70 2002 $190  1990 $150 2006 $510 2007 $95 2002 $110 1994 $90 2004 $140 1991 $120 2007 $420 2008 $952003 $85 1995 $70 2005 $120 1992 $110 2008 $620 2009 $752004 $110  2006 $160 1993 $95  2010 $752005 $140 2007 $95 1994 $110 2006 $100  1996 $90  1995 $100 THREE RIVERS/2007 $120  Chardonnay 1996 $120 Chris Ringland2008 $120  1997 Not Released Art Series 1997 $120  Wines Shiraz2009 $90 1998 $110 1998 $160 1990 $5202010 $95 1999 $90 1990 $60 1999 $130 1991 $6902011 $85  1991 $60 2000 $120 1992 $600 1992 $70 2001 $110 1993 $700 BROKENWOOD Cabernet Merlot 2000 $70 1993 $65 2002 $130  1994 $650 Graveyard Shiraz 1999 $95 2001 $110 1994 $85 2003 $110 1995 $450 1990 $90 2000 $65 2002 $95 1995 $100 2004 $140  1996 $830 1991 $110  2001 $120 2003 $60 1996 $65 2005 $120 1997 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2002 $90  1997 $90 2006 $120  1998 $850 1993 $80 2003 $90 1998 $70 2007 $90  1999 $600 1994 $80 2004 $90 2004 $70 1999 $75 2008 $95 2000 $450 1995 $70 2005 $85 2005 $65 2000 $75 2009 Not Released 2001 $800 1996 $95 2006 $70 2006 $65 2001 $80 2010 $85 2002 $800 1997 $85 2007 $100  2007 Not Released 2002 $75 2003 $500 1998 $110 2008 $90 2008 $85 2003 $80 Bin 95 Grange Bin 707 1999 $90 2009 $90  1951 $46,000 1990 $220 2000 $110  2010 $80 1952 $17,000 1991 $220 2001 $80 GREENOCK CREEK 1953 $14,000 1992 $180 2002 $75 ELDERTON Roennfeldt Rd 1954 $10,000 1993 $180 2003 $80 Command Shiraz Shiraz 1955 $3,800  1994 $200  2004 $80 1990 $120 1956 $14,000  1995 Not Released 2005 $85 1991 Not Released 1995 $280 1957 $12,000 1996 $220 2006 $110  1992 $100 1996 $260 1958 $4,100 1997 $190 2007 $90 1993 $65 1997 $160 1959 $2,000 1998 $260 2008 Not Released 1994 $80 1998 $350 1999 $200 2009 $85 1995 $75 1999 $180 2000 Not ReleasedCLARENDON HILLS 1996 $95 2000 $220 2001 $190 1997 $70 2001 $240 2002 $180 Astralis Shiraz 1998 $95 2002 $300 2003 Not Released 1994 $200 1999 $70 2003 $200 2004 $200 1995 $200  2004 $210 2005 $200 2005 $230 2006 $180 2006 $260 2007 $160 2008 $190 2000 $65 2009 $180 2001 $65 2010 $280 76 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $145 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $1,8001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $4801994 $120 1992 $2701995 $95 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $3001997 $90 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $5001998 $150 1996 $2601999 $95 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $3202000 $70 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $6602002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $95 1996 $440 1995 $550 2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450  1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 Not Released2008 $100 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240  2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $120 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $600 2004 $500  Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550  2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 1993 $210 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1994 $2601878 $2,000 1996 $600 de la Romanee 1995 $2101879 $2,000  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1996 $3001880 $1,000 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1997 $5501881 $1,000 1999 $600 1991 $1,900 1998 $3001882 $1,000 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1999 $2601887 $1,000 2001 $450 1993 $2,200  2000 $3101893 $1,000 2002 $480 1994 $1,600  2001 $2501899 $1,000 2003 $600 1995 $2,500 2002 Not Released1901 $650 2004 $550 1996 $2,700 2003 Not Released1908 $550 2005 $1,200  1997 $1,900 2004 $3101910 $450  2006 $780 1998 $2,200 2005 Not Released1922 $350 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2007 $2401925 $600 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,5001927 $290 Chateau Latour 2001 $2,0001930 $140  1990 $1,250 2002 $2,800  Tenuta1933 $130  1991 $600 2003 $2,800 Dell’Ornellaia1939 $80 1992 $350 2004 $2,5001944 $70 1993 $440 2005 $4,500 Ornellaia1947 $55 1994 $460 2006 $1,700 1991 $320 1995 $750 2007 $1,200 1992 $105 IMPORTED 1996 $1,100 2008 $2,400 1993 $125 WINES 1997 $460 2009 $5,000 1994 $130 1998 $520 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 2000 $1,600  1997 $250Moet et Chandon 2001 $700 Domaine Armand 1998 $185 Cuvee Dom 2002 $600  Rousseau 1999 $200 Perignon 2003 $1,700  2000 $140 2004 $600 Chambertin 2001 $2601980 $220 2005 $1,300 Clos de Beze 2002 $2801982 $230 2006 $1,100  1990 $950 2003 $1501983 $180 2007 $750  1991 $200 2004 $1501985 $200 2008 $1,100 1992 $220 2005 Not Released1988 $260 1993 $600 2006 $1701990 $380 Chateau Petrus 1994 $500 2007 $2201992 $240 1990 $5,500 1995 $560 2008 $1501993 $260  1991 Not Released 1996 $650 2009 $1901995 $220 1992 $1,300 1997 $2801996 $280 1993 $1,000 1998 $4001998 $260 1994 $2,800  1999 $8001999 $190 1995 $1,900 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico2000 $180 1996 $2,400  2001 $460  Gran Reserva2002 $200 1997 $1,000 2002 $6802003 $190 1998 $3,600 2003 $600 1990 $560 1999 $1,250 2004 $440  1991 $420 2000 $6,000 2005 $950 1994 $550 2001 $2,300 2006 $600 1995 $420 2007 Not Released 1996 $360 2009 $1,100 1998 $420 2010 $1,100 1999 $420 2000 $360 2002 $420 2003 $294  September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 77

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts sought after. Highlights of the quarter include 1982 Chateau Lafleur attaining $2116 and LANGTON’S WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS 1982 Chateau Latour realising $2070. A rare AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (SECOND QUARTER MARKET REPORT, pre-WWII bottle of 1934 Chateau Margaux Weekly internet auctions by ANDREA PRITZKER) also went under the hammer fetching $2116. Fortified/Spirits Auction: Langton’s has enjoyed a solid second quarter, September 3-10 underpinned by an exciting series of special On the domestic front, demand for September 10-17 interest auctions. The substantial expansion Australian wines is also buoyant, with Rewards of Patience Auction: in both the breadth and depth of catalogues the blue chip wines from the Langton’s September 17-24 on offer has provided many attractive buying Classification V leading the charge. 1982 September 24-October 1 opportunities, contributing to a vibrant auction Wynns John Riddoch has enjoyed a October 1-8 room dynamic. Wine, like art, clothing and remarkable upswing in price, selling for $135 October 8-15 music isn’t immune to the undulation of per bottle in August 2012 and now regularly Bordeaux Auction: trends and the vagaries of fashion. Indeed fetching over $500 per bottle - with the last October 15-22 over the past six months, several notable price achieved this month a remarkable October 22-29 trends have come to light which are reshaping $581 per bottle. Other highlights include an the secondary market. A movement away imperial of 2002 Charles Melton Nine Popes STERLING WINE AUCTIONS from cult, big blockbuster styles - first Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre achieving $693 Auctions run every two weeks, observed in the primary market several years and an imperial of 1997 Mount Mary Quintet back-to-back, finishing on ago - is now being echoed in the secondary Cabernet Blend fetching $2645. Interest Wednesday evening. market. This is reflecting in increased demand in rare Seppelt 100 Year Old Para Vintage for lighter, elegant wines - with Burgundy Tawny was also strong, with half bottles of ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS the principal beneficiary. Demand for strong the 1900 and 1907 vintages fetching $1806 September 17 (closing August 23) vintages of wines from renowned producers and $2159 respectively. October 22 (closing September 20) like J.F Coche Dury, Domaine Armand Rousseau and Domaine Comte Georges de The annual Penfolds Grange auction, one GRAYSONLINE Vogue has been very strong. of the highlights of the auction calendar, Daily wine auctions, starting for also provided some spectacular results. $9 per case, with a 30-day money As a consequence, price realisations for A selection of rare Grange was met back guarantee. Burgundy are on the ascendancy. Recent with great enthusiasm, with strong price Fine wine auctions end Monday- highlights include 2005 Domaine Comte realizations, including $15,870 for a 1956 Wednesday-Thursday each week. Georges De Vogue Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Penfolds Bin 53 Grange Hermitage and Port and spirit auctions Musigny achieving $1611, 2010 Domaine $12,696 for an even rarer 1953 Penfolds Bin end on Tuesdays. Liger-Belair, La Romanee, Monopole, 9 Grange Cabernet, South Australia. Ultra Grand Cru attaining $1726 and impressive rare wines like the iconic 1962 Penfolds CRACKA WINES realisations for some very rare, early 20th Bin 60A also fared well selling for $5176 Live wine auctions every day at century vintages, including 1926 Domaine and a turn of the century bottle of 1909 1pm and 8pm on weekdays and Henri de Villamont Succession du Dr. Auldana St Henri Magill achieved $4345 - a 8pm on weekends. Barolet, Beaune selling for $1329 and 1929 remarkable result for a priceless curio. Domaine Henri de Villamont Succession du (All dates subject to change Dr. Barolet, Beaumonts, Vosne-Romanee Langton’s is celebrating its 25th anniversary without notice) achieving $1270. Demand for Bordeaux is this year and there are many exciting events also continuing an upward trajectory with still ahead, including a new look for our website, fully mature vintages such as 1982 eagerly a move to weekly centralised internet auctions and our much anticipated Classification tastings taking place in Sydney and Melbourne in September. To keep up to date with the latest info on upcoming auctions and events visit www.langtons.com. au (all prices inclusive of buyers’ premium). ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS (EARLY WINTER AUCTION REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHT) The onset of winter certainly saw buyers turn their attention to big, bold reds - and those, as ever, were Australian shiraz. Be it from the Barossa, McLaren Vale or the Clare Valley, our buyers’ insatiable appetite for this variety never seems to wane.78 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGASPLAINS ANGOVE ANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELDARTWINE ASCELLA PURE ASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIEBALLAST STONE BANROCK STATION BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHEBATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIA BELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORDBERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUE PYRENEES BLUE TONGUEBOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHING SPACEBRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWNBROTHERS BROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIAAUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAH BRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPEMENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPEL VALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATECASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDS CHALICE BRIDGE CHALKHILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDON HILLSCLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARACOOKS LOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILLD’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTO DALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIISDEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENT DESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIRDEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE A DOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINESTATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAE EDWARDSELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEKFABER VINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROPFIVE GEESE FLAMETREE FLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOURSISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASER GALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLINGCUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREE GEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFFWEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDON GLENGUIN ESTATEGOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKED HAPPSSearchAND THREE HILLS HARDYS HAREWOOD ESTATE HARVEY RIVER BRIDGE ESTATE HEARTLANDHEATHCOTE ESTATE HEATHCOTE WINERY HEGGIES HENKELL HENLEY HILL HENRY’S DRIVEHENSCHKE HESKETH HEWITSON HIGHER PLANE HILL SMITH HITHER & YON HOLM OAKHOUGHTON HOUSE OF ARRAS HOWLING WOLVES HUGH HAMILTON HUGO INGOLDBY IRON POTBAY IRVINE J & J VINEYARDS JACK RUSSELL JAMES ESTATE JANSZ JASPER HILL JIM BARRY JOHNDUVAL JONES ROAD JOSEF CHROMY JUNIPER ESTATE KAESLER KAKABA KANGARILLA ROADAUSTRALIA’SKARRIBINDI KATNOOK KELLERMEISTER KILIKANOON KILLARA ESTATE KILLERBY KINGSTONESTATE KINLOCH KNAPPSTEIN KNEE DEEP KOONOWLA KOOYONG KREGLINGER KURTZ FAMILYLA LINEA LA PLEIADE LA VIE LACACHE LAKE BREEZE LAKE HOUSE LAMBLOCH LANGMEIL LARKHILL LARRY CHERUBINO LAST HORIZON LEASINGHAM LECONFIELD LEEUWIN LENGS & COOTERLEO BURING LERIDA ESTATE LIGHT’S VIEW LINDEMANS LOGAN LONELY VINEYARD LONGVIEWLOOSE LEAF MANDALAY ROAD MARCHAND & BURCH MARGAN MASSENA MASSONI MATISONLARGESTMAXIMUS MAXWELL MCWILLIAM’S MEEREA PARK MERUM ESTATE MESH MIHI CREEK MILESFROM NOWHERE MITCHELL MITCHELTON MITOLO MOJO MOLLYDOOKER MONTROSE MOONBARKESTATE MOONDAH BROOK MOOTHI ESTATE MOPPITY MORGAN PENDARI MOSS WOOD MOTORHEADMOUNT CAMEL RIDGE MOUNT HORROCKS MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN MOUNT PLEASANT MOUNTADAMMR MICK MT BUFF MUNARI NASHWAUK NIGHT HARVEST NINTH ISLAND NORFOLK RISE NUGANWINE SITE!O’LEARY WALKER OAKOVER OAKRIDGE OATLEY OCEAN EIGHT OCEAN GROVE ODDFELLOWSOLIVER’S TARANGA OMNI OXFORD LANDING PADTHAWAY ESTATE PANORAMA PARADIGM HILLPARINGA ESTATE PARKER COONAWARRA PARRI ESTATE PARTISAN PAUL CONTI PAXTON PEELESTATE PENFOLDS PENLEY PENNA LANE PENNY’S HILL PEPPER TREE PEPPERJACK PETALUMAPETER LEHMANN PEWSEY VALE PHILIP SHAW PICARDY PICARUS PIERRO PIG IN THE HOUSE PIKE& JOYCE PIKES PIMPERNEL PIPERS BROOK PIRIE PIRRAMIMMA PIZZINI PLANTAGENET PORTPHILLIP ESTATE PRANCING HORSE PREVELI PRIMO PRINTHIE PROTERO PROVENANCE PUNTROAD PUPPETEER PURE CLARE PURE VISION PURPLE HANDS PYRENEES RIDGE QUARISA QUATTROMANO RADFORD RALPH FOWLER RAVEN PARK RAVENSWORTH RED HILL 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wine investment & collecting Highlights from Oddbins’ early June auction key vintages of the 1990s, Block 42 and St confidence has seen many wine auction pricesincluded the sale of a magnum of 1979 Grange Henri, also cleared well. travelling flat to a touch downhill.for a hammer price of $1260, closely followedby a rarely seen 1960 Bin 49 Grange for Good clearances were recorded for Majella The perfect storm of low international$911 and the extraordinary result for a 1972 Cabernet from the early 2000s, along with demand following the GFC and the mad highPenfolds Bin 128, where the final bid landed the large offering of Wynns Coonawarra levels of the Australian dollar exchange rates64 per cent above the top-end of the guides. cabernets, including its special Davis has just about killed recent wine exports andBuyers with a passion for our most famous release, and a selection of 2nd and 3rd flooded the domestic market with choicegrape variety were also keen to pick up the Growth Bordeaux. Speaking of imported deals that are hard for most wine punterslarge offering of Hardy’s curiously named HRB wine, Australia’s love affair with Champagne to resist. The knock-on with the auctionD641 McLaren Vale Clare Valley Shiraz from continues, with good clearances for Bollinger market is predictable - buyers are fussier2007, 2010 Kellermeister Black Sash, Tim and Moet et Chandon. than ever and potential vendors are nervousAdams’ flagship Aberfeldy from the 1990s and unwilling to commit to selling into theand early 2000s, most of the Murray Street The change in weather also saw buyers current climate. The good news is there aresingle vineyard and Sophia Shiraz and 2006 bid keenly on a large selection of Australian more than the usual number of bargains inTrevor Jones Dry Grown Barossa Shiraz. fortifieds. The standout was the $113 hammer the wine auction catalogues. Particularly inThere were also good sales from the more price paid for a set of Saltram’s The Great the top-end price points.established auction performers like Henschke Australia Series fortifieds from the 1940sMount Edelstone and Rockford Basket Press and ’50s. Hardy’s vintage ports, along with Sterling’s rolling auction format, a reactionfrom the 1990s, along with Noon Reserves Seppelt’s Para Liqueurs, also attracted buyers. to the demand for “on-line” to be “on-line alland Wendouree Shiraz, mainly from 2004. However, stock for sale across all categories the time”, has worked well. Keeping up to is still in short supply, so if you’ve ever date with the demands of the new e-markets Sales of Penfolds Grange, Australia’s thought about turning some unused wine into has been a challenge but some big stepsflagship shiraz, have slowed over the last cash, now is a good time to do it! For more have resulted, all delivering faster and easiersix months, mainly due to lack of supply information visit www.oddbins.com.au. access and purchases. The breakthroughof vintages from the 1980s and the fact of putting Sterling wine auctions on everythat many buyers are still passing over STERLING WINE AUCTIONS smartphone has been a great success.examples in less than perfect condition. (MARKET REVIEW, Never miss a bid or an auction close; it’s aIn reality, wines over 20 years of age with by LYNTON BARBER) simple matter. Sterling has even producedlevels “into the neck” or even “VVHS”, are The wine auction market is not immune to an “app” button for your phone.in a condition I’d describe as commensurate the damage caused by political indecision andwith age. Alas, the market sees it differently. the collapse of consumer confidence. The An unlikely innovation, Sterling for Charity,However, June did see some good sales of dramatic paradox of the Australian economy was inspired by the need to raise funds forGrange from the 1990s, along with imperfect performing so well and the Australian populace cancer treatment/research through a bike rideexamples from the famed 1971 vintage. behaving so negatively is hard to believe. There in February this year. Sterling for Charity isPenfolds Bins 389 and 707, especially the are always winners and losers, and the crisis in very simple and very effective. Sell your wine donated for charity fundraising and Sterling will help with heavily discounted cost recovery Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What80 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

wine investment & collectingfees and a proceeds cheque made out in the not up. The release prices, that were often up Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon,name of the charity. Converting surplus wine to four times the single bottle price, combined for example, hit a peak of $55.50/bottle ininto charity donations has been very popular. with the punters’ sensible choice to go with one particularly furtive auction which saw the more practical standard bottle size has over 115 different bids placed. The Penfolds Grange market is the wine seen Grange magnum prices slide into theauction barometer. Current readings are keen value zone - with many vintages selling Perhaps the only surprise over thisencouraging and predictable. The “drinking” into a market with thin demand at prices that period has been the soft prices for GrangeGranges, best vintages back to say 1986, are can fall below the value of two regular bottles. magnums, even the good vintages, while thepreforming very well. In fact, there’s barely a standard 750ml bottles have still performedblip on their slow rise in value. The collectable Best buying right now? My happy hunting strongly. A magnum of the 1986 Grange, formarket is a bigger worry, although sub-setting ground would see Jacobs Creek’s Johann example, reached just $920, and the 1980 athe more sensible birth year market sees Shiraz Cabernet and Centenary Hill Shiraz, measly $470/magnum, while a single 750mlsome very encouraging stories. Current Yalumba’s The Signature Cabernet Shiraz bottle of 1966 hit $970. Conversely, Leeuwinvalues for 1973, 1963 even 1983 are travelling and The Menzies and Bowen Estate Art Series Chardonnay continues its reign asnear or above all-time records. Just about the Cabernet in the sights. a super performer, with the 1999 notablysafest wine investment tip around is the buy hitting $106/bottle. Clonakilla Shiraz Viognierup “perfect condition” 1984, 1974 and 1964 Sterling Wine Auctions are online and roll also remains very popular, with the 2008bottles for the birthday round next year. The over every two weeks. For more information vintage selling at a new peak of $104/bottle.weird old collectable Granges, particularly go to www.sterlingwine.com.au. On a more affordable level, it is severalfrom the 1950s are looking very shaky. Not recent favourites which dominate Crackasurprising, the reality check has kicked in with CRACKA WINES auctions, with the Toro Loco Barossa Shirazthe obvious question: “Why is an undrinkable (MAY/JUNE REPORT, and the Chapman Grove Merlot attractingbottle of 1951 worth over $A50K?” being by ANDREW GRAHAM) 200-plus bidders each time they appear.answered very firmly by the big money On the back of some major upgrades to thefinding happier hunting grounds. Likely the Cracka auctions and deals formats, the May/ The most surprising auction performermarket for top pointed French wines from June period has been one of our busiest ever, in the May/June period, attracting almostBordeaux or Burgundy is benefiting from this including two of the biggest selling days in our 350 bids in a single auction, was the 2006collector refocus. history and the biggest sales week of all time. Elmslie Cabernet Sauvignon, an elegant One of the drivers of this growth has been our and leafy cabernet from a most unlikely For me, a collector’s show purchase that recent cellar clearance sale which saw multiple region for this variety - Tasmania. Beyondmakes sense was the 2010 Pontet Canet vintages of Grange and some classic Australian Grange magnums, Leeuwin Chardonnayrecently sold by Sterling for under $A400. This wines of the ’90s, all selling in completely and Tasmanian cabernet, the oft forgotten100pt upstart is fresh in town and has decades unreserved auctions. favourite here at Cracka is the premium mixedin its drinking window - flash and smart. dozen. We’re not referring to cheap-and- Unsurprisingly, most of the price heights cheerful, sub $100 packs, but instead one of The Grange magnum market has been have been for strong vintages of blue-chip the collections of more serious, $15-$25 RRPsubject to big fluctuations for some time. Now favourites, but some wines just attract collections which are proving very popular.the trend seems to be fixed and the direction is interest regardless of vintage. The 1993 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 81

wine investment & collecting In other noticeable trends, we continue attractive price. These auctions start from a who’ll ensure your investment and pleasureto see a slight slackening in demand for low $9 per case. We’ve also added some big doesn’t disappear with time.Marlborough sauvignon blanc (only slightly, name brands to the general wine auctions,mind you), while $20-plus chardonnay is really including Angove’s, Blue Pyrenees and So many notable and outstanding winesrolling along. A recent poll of our customers McWilliams - and we’ve updated the smart continue to come through Graysonline.revealed that 64 per cent were drinking more phone functionality so you’ll never miss out on I’ve tasted many of them, and can assurechardonnay than a year ago, a staggering that last minute bid again. Finally, the website you they’re drinking perfectly now. Thesefigure which shows just how much more en has had a tweak, with videos added to even include 1999-2002 d’Arenberg Deadvogue chardonnay has become. more pictures and descriptions, allowing you Arm, which displays wonderful softness to make the best informed choice. and richness, and the shiraz and mataro Cracka Wines conduct live wine auctions blend from the iconic Wendouree, 1997-every day. For more information, visit Within Private Cellar, big, well-known 2006. These wines have great power andwww.crackawines.com.au or email help@ Australian reds continue to lead the way significant volumes of both are availablecrackawines.com.au (all quoted prices are per with some excellent results from magnums now - and will continue to be sold over thebottle with no buyers’ premium applicable). such as 2002 Penfolds Grange ($1568), 1998 coming months. They’re well worth trying. Bin 707 ($465), 2002 and 1995 RockfordGRAYSONLINE Basket Press ($372 and $419 respectively), Graysonline continues to offer the only(JUNE 2013 REVIEW, along with 2002 and 2004 d’Arenberg The monthly single malt auction in the country.by GREG FITZSIMMONS) Dead Arm Shiraz, both selling for over $160. Last month’s included the Johnnie WalkerAs the days get shorter and the cold settles Penfolds Grange continues to amaze us all Oldest Scotch Whisky bottled 1987, whichin, people are turning to winter reds to warm with the volume at which it’s being traded sold for $1327. Bruichladdich Octomore 2.2the spirit - and the strong value and volume and the value it achieves at auction. Record Orpheus sold for $470, along with good valuewe’re currently experiencing across all red results to date include 2001 at $631, 1998 malts such as Glenmorangie 18YO for $130wine categories within the graysonline at $694, 1976 at $855 and the 1983 vintage, and Hart Brothers 18YO for $115.wine business affirms this. Whether it’s the perfect 40th birthday present, achievingthe special bottle of Henschke Hill of Grace, a staggering $746. All these wines are of Some superb wines were also sold lastPirramimma Shiraz or the exceedingly good excellent provenance. Many also went month and provided excellent value, includingvalue Angove’s wines, each has seen sound through the “Penfolds recorking clinic” a six packs of 2002 St Hallett Faith Shiraz whichgrowth over the past few months. few years back, and were rewarded with a went for below $30, 1997 Voyager Estate Graysonline five-star provenance rating. Cabernet Merlot at $40, 2002 Henschke Julius Graysonline has made some notable Riesling at $30, 2002 Bowen Estate Cabernetchanges since summer, adding hundreds of I can’t stress enough the importance of Sauvignon at just under $40 and 2004 Mossmixed cases to the general auctions, including provenance/storage of your fine wines. We’ve Wood Chardonnay at $50. All are at their peakaged red blends, shiraz and sauvignon blanc seen many great cellars spoiled by incorrect now and make for very pleasurable drinking.packs. This offers a wide range of well- temperature and improper conditions. If youknown brands and varietals, so you have the invest in wine, invest in either correct onsite Graysonline has continuous auctions,freedom to choose the wines you want at an storage conditions or store with professionals 24 hours a day, seven days a week. For more information visit www.graysonline.com (prices listed don’t include buyers’ premium).82 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

TURN YOURLIQUID ASSETINTO CASHGraysOnline is Australia’s largestonline wine auctioneer.When it comes to wine we sell more cases onlinethan anyone else in the country, in fact over half-a-million last financial year.With a proven track record selling for Australia’swineries, distributors and retailers, GraysOnline isthe perfect vehicle for you to sell your wine.We manage the marketing, warehousing,logistics, customer payment, product deliveryand payment for you making it not only one of themost effective retail channels but also the easiest.Contact Dan Pawlyk on 0458 040 418 or [email protected] and see howsimple it is!Australia’s Most Trusted Auctioneer Since 1922

Vinitalia Italian winesDown Under -two days of full Italian wines have at long last captured the interest of Australianimmersion into consumers –something that’s been demonstrated by importItalian wines figures for wines from Italy, which have increased by 23.5% over the last two years. In fact, the Italian habit of catching up with friends before lunch or dinner - the aperitivo, as it’s called in Italy - having a sparkling glass of Prosecco rather than a still white or red, is now becoming a must here in Australia. But, although Prosecco is increasingly becoming part of the Australian vernacular, there is still an entire world of Italian wines to discover. With dozens and dozens of autochthonous varieties, Italian wines not only offer diverse flavours – from delicately subtle to rich and full-bodied, they are also unique symbols of the individual Italian territories that they represent, with their distinct cultures, traditions and histories. Winestate and the Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne, have joined forces for two significant initiatives dedicated to Italian wines that will take place in Melbourne in October – the Italian Varietal Tasting and Vinitalia Down Under - with the aim of imparting a 360 degree overview of the Italian product, its characteristics and peculiarities, with both a commercial and educational core. Italian Varietal Tasting Conducted 21-24 October, a panel of expert judges will be tasting varietals from every Italian region – many as yet unavailable in Australia. Submissions are being taken from Italian-based wineries and Italian wine importers in Australia and awarded wines will be published in Winestate Magazine March/April 2014. Vinitalia Down Under A commercial event dedicated exclusively to Italian IGT, DOC and DOCG wines, an unmissable opportunity for importers and distributors to showcase their best Italian drops, for wine industry professionals to expand their knowledge and repertoire and for wine lovers to try and buy! Promotional initiatives are integrated by guided tasting sessions and informative workshops on the characteristics of Italian wines and their production origins. Regional experts from Italy will guide guests through a multitude of labels of different varieties, many not yet available in Australia. Kicking off on Sunday 27 October in conjunction with the Carlton Italian Festa (Melbourne’s biggest celebration of Italian culture), this boutique wine expo will be two days of full immersion into Italian wines.

explore the authenticity! Vinitalia Down Under Sunday 27 October 11am - 7pm Open to the public, trade and media • Exhibition and tasting of Italian wines. • Information workshops and tasting sessions exploring the various territories of origin. Monday 28 October 10am - 5pm Dedicated to wine industry professionals • ICCI Melbourne will pre-organise business meetings between producers, importers and distributors, hospitality industry professionals and retailers. • Information workshops and tasting sessions exploring the various territories of origin. Tickets for the public are $15 and are available at the door (includes wine tastings and workshops). For entry into the Italian Varietal Tasting contact: Cara Cassetta, Tasting Co-ordinator Phone 08 8357 9277 Email [email protected] For more information on participating in Vinitalia Down Under and organising a custom business agenda contact: Milva Mazzuggia, ICCI Melbourne Phone 03 8341 3200 Email [email protected] Exhibitor/Workshop registrations close 16 August. ICCI Melbourne actively promotes and facilitates contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. For more information call ICCI Melbourne on 03 8341 3200.

582 TASTED364 AWARDEDWORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH& S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E V1I1One of our favourite tastings of the year where over six days we SHIRAZmeticulously evaluate the different styles and qualities that this BLENDSvariety can bring. Whether called shiraz or syrah, this is the clay $10-$15that winemakers mould into great drinking reds. 10 TASTED 4 AWARDEDSHIRAZ The judges found too& BLENDS many forward winesUNDER $10 here that were past their “use-by-date”.15 TASTED Johnny Q South7 AWARDED Australia Shiraz Viognier 2010 HHHHA good line-up for the Full-bodied and balanced,price. “A few are even with a melange ofpunching above their Christmas cake, Vegemiteweight,” said one judge. and blackcurrant“The 2012s are worth characters. Rich tanninschecking out.” and good oak. $11.99Shot in the Dark A.C. Byrne & Co Rosemount BlendsSouth Australia McLaren Vale AustraliaShiraz Petite Sirah Shiraz 2011 HHH Shiraz Cabernet2012 HHHH Leathery nose - smells 2012 HHH1/2Combination of earthy, of Vegemite. Palate A clean, fruity wine,spicy oaky aromas, with developing and earthy, with bright perfumedhints of cherries. Similar with good tannins. $9.99 bouquet and balanced,characters echoed on spicy/peppery palate,the long, well-structured Cock + Bull Hocus Pocus with decent flavourpalate. $9.99 South Australia South Australia length. $11.99Cono Sur Chile Shiraz 2012 HHH Shiraz 2012 HHH Peter LehmannSyrah 2011 HHH1/2 Bright peppery, minty A pretty nose; intense Art ‘n’ Soul BarossaA lift of blackcurrants on aromas and soft, sweet floral fragrances. Soft, Shiraz Grenachethe spicy nose. More plum and rhubarb generous, varietal palate, 2011 HHHspiciness on the plummy palate, with some with silky texture. $8.90 “A ‘friendly’ approachablepalate, with firm tannins earthiness. $6.90 30 Mile Australia and very more-ish style ofand good oak balance. $9 Shiraz 2012 HHH wine,” according to one Ripe lolly-like berry judge. $14 aromas. Earthy and Crossroads Classic leathery, and thick and Dry Red Margaret fruity in the mouth. $9.99 River Shiraz Cabernet 2009 HHH Smells earthy, spicy and tobacco-like, with a toasty, oaky palate. A well-aged wine. $14.99 One Road South Australia Shiraz 2010 HHH Spicy lift to the complex nose and a soft, approachable, spicy peppery palate. $786 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingSHIRAZ Brookland Valley McPherson Family SHIRAZ Brygon Reserve& BLENDS Verse 1 Margaret South Eastern 2011-2010 Mirror Image2012 River Shiraz Australia Shiraz $10-$15 Margaret River$10-$15 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH Powerful yet elegant Powerful oak-driven 22 TASTED Very flavoursome,12 TASTED style of shiraz,with a shiraz dominating the 14 AWARDED generous wine, with12 AWARDED blackberry nose that blackcurrant-like varietal A mixed bag, with some elements of licoriceA great year, with has woody undertones. fruit characters. Tightly solid results but without and leather on the“awesome fruit quality,” Great palate, with structured palate, with any great highlights. blackcurrant nose,agreed the judges, gorgeous dark fruit rich tannins and good Less fruit intensity and and a long, chocolaty,which has made these purity nicely balanced mouthfeel. $12.99 more oak overall. savoury palate. $14.99value wines vibrant and by the oak. Firm in the Houghton “These are more food Parson’s Paddockfresh, and offer amazing mouth. $14.99 Western Australia wines where the tannins McLaren Vale Shirazvalue across the board. Shiraz 2012 HHHH would be less noticeable,” 2011 HHH1/2Taylors Promised Wolf Blass Nose shows a good lift said one judge. Complex, leathery,Land South Red Label South of confectionery fruit Vegemite characters onAustralia Shiraz Eastern Australia and oak. Very elegant Brookman Wines the nose, similar elements2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz Grenache fruity palate that, Silv’s Block on the chocolaty palate.This nose is intense, 2012 HHHH according to one judge, McLaren Vale Good texture and ripebrooding and complex, Excellent varietal “ticks all the boxes”. Shiraz 2010 HHHH tannins. $14.95with a great oaky lift. marriage here, with Needs time. $13.99 Excellent varietal Enchanted TreeDistinctive oak on the beautifully inviting spicy Tail Spin fruit purity here, with South Australiasilky smooth, chocolaty cherry aromas and a Langhorne Creek Christmas cake/plum Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2palate, with lovely savoury palate, with Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 aromas and sour cherry A good food wine. Someblackberry elements and complex tannin/oak Beautiful varietal flavours on the palate, licorice notes on thegreat texture. $13 balance. $14 fruit purity here, with framed by gentle confectionery sweet Paringa South excellent structure tannins. $12.50 nose. Dark fruit palateRed Knot by Australia Shiraz and gentle tannins. Third Wheel dominated by vanillaShingleback 2012 HHHH “Offers very enjoyable Margaret River oak. $11.99McLaren Vale Shiraz Very fruity and sweet, drinking”. $13.95 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Brygon Reserve2012 HHHH1/2 with lovely lifted lolly-like Curious South Developed spicy/oaky Pinjara MargaretA very more-ish wine. aromas and soft candied Eastern Australia bouquet. Bit oaky on the River ShirazSmells of cherries, fruit-like palate, with Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 palate, with smoky meaty 2010 HHH1/2blackberries and good balance of oak and Layers of blackcurrant flavours and very drying Layered and complex,caramel. Opulent and acid. $10 fruit and spicy oak on tannins. Needs more and very more-ish. Slightlyfleshy in the mouth, Growers Gate the nose and a very time to settle. $14.99 developed, silky smooth,with lovely varietal South Australia well-balanced, nicely savoury style of shiraz.fruit nicely framed by Shiraz 2012 HHHH textured palate. Just Great food wine. $14.99soft tannins and subtle Opulent dark fruit needs time. $14wood. $14.95 fragrances layered with The Tudor toasty oak. Elegant, well- Central Victoria balanced, earthy, berry Shiraz 2012 HHH palate framed by a firm Restrained but elegant tannin backbone. $11.95 shiraz - firm and balanced; all it needs is some more time and food! $12.99 The Wine Society Swan Hill Shiraz 2012 HHH Funky, earthy/meaty nose and warm, sweet/ sour palate, with pleasant peppery notes. $13.99 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 87

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIEvans & Tate Casillero Del Diablo Black Prince Taylors Clare ValleyGnangara Reserva Chile Shiraz by Shingleback Shiraz 2012 HHHHHMargaret River 2010 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz A serious wine to serveShiraz 2011 HHH Elegant wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon with a big beef steakLeathery and spicy on unusual, slightly menthol 2011 HHH now or put it away tothe nose and slightly aromas and gamey, Simple cherry aromas evolve into somethinggrippy palate, with tannic palate. $14 and a savoury palate, great. Loads of intense,earthy blackcurrant with good tannic sweet, varietal fruitflavours. $12 Nostalgia Wines structure and peppery framed with good useH by Haselgrove Wise Guy notes. $15.95 of oak and rich, ripeMcLaren Vale Margaret River tannins. 5+ $19Shiraz 2011 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH Metala LanghorneSmoky, meaty aromas, Good cherry/raspberry Creek Shiraz Mission Estate Syrahwith hints of berries and fruit concentration nicely Cabernet 2010 HHH 2012 HHHH1/2warm licorice and prune balanced by residual sugar An intense, Very French, withflavours. $12 and mocha oak. $14.99 concentrated, grippy barnyard-like aromasLabeye France Syrah food wine offering good showing a perfumed2011 HHH SHIRAZ cellaring potential. $18 floral lift. The palate“Enough complexity BLENDS is elegant but rich inhere to keep your $15-$20 Eppalock Ridge flavour, with excellentinterest,” commented Susan’s Selection acid/tannin/oak balance.one judge. Balanced, 11 TASTED Heathcote Shiraz Needs more time in thesavoury and earthy. $12 5 AWARDED Cabernet Merlot bottle. $18Johnny Q South 2010 HHHAustralia Shiraz A mixed result similar Simple, earthy, fruit nose Fox Creek Red Baron Jip Jip Rocks2010 HHH to the last blend and intense, powerful, McLaren Vale Shiraz Padthaway ShirazSome serious wood category. Many wines chocolaty palate. Good 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2obvious on the nose and lacked vibrancy of fruit food wine. $19.95 A complex but refined Aromas of dark fruits,smoky, meaty, mocha and too much oak. multi-layered shiraz,with with hints of vanilla andflavours. $11.99 SHIRAZ 2012 lots of rich varietal fruit, mocha. Plush in theLions Lair Classic Jip Jip Rocks $15-$20 some serious wood mouth, with soft, sweet,Red Margaret River Padthaway Shiraz treatment and lifted generous, varietal fruitShiraz 2010 HHH Cabernet 2012 HHHH 12 TASTED herbal notes. Just needs flavours, smoky oak, fineA warm, savoury style, Brooding, preserved fruit 12 AWARDED to do some time in the tannins and great palatewith dark plum fruit bouquet and intense, cellar. $17.50 texture. 5+ $19.95characters. Good acidity complex, dark fruit Once again great resultsand gentle tannins. $12.99 flavours; hints of leather, from the 2012 vintage,The Wine Society lovely silky tannins and with good freshness andMcLaren Vale Shiraz excellent spicy oak vibrancy. Extraordinary2010 HHH length. $19.95 to see these results inRich, ripe, dark plum/ this price bracket. Andcherry fruit on the nose Taylors Eighty Acres amazingly, some areand carrying through to South Australia even good cellaringthe palate. $13.99 Shiraz Viognier prospects - unheard of 2012 HHH at these prices. Fragrances of violets and a simple palate; good structure, with firm, drying tannins. Still a baby. $15DAY 1 - JUDGES Mark Thwaites David Fleming Winemaker for Lindemans Winemaker for Adam Jarvis Wines, Karadoc (Victoria). Scarpantoni Wines. Wine Writer and on Previously winemaker Has vintaged in Dan Murphy’s Fine for Australian Vintage in California, Italy, Wine Panel. Decades Buronga (NSW). Vintaged in Canada and Hungary. of Hospitality & Liquor McLaren Vale and currently Formerly winemaker Retail Experience. completing AWAC Advanced at Seppeltsfield in the Wine Assessment Course. Barossa Valley.88 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingMojo by Rockbare Black Chook SHIRAZ 2011 Thomas Goss Jip Jip RocksBarossa Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz $15-$20 McLaren Vale Shiraz Padthaway Shiraz2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH 2011 HHH 2011 HHHFull fleshy and fruity. Lovely savoury/mocha 27 TASTED A full bodied, earthy/ Simple plum-like“It’s all about the fruit,” oak aromas, with a fruity 15 AWARDED savoury style, with lifted aromas and an easy,commented one judge. lift. Warm, rich and aromas and soft and approachable, fruit-The wine is a lovely mix complex in the mouth, Generally a line-up of silky in the mouth. $15 driven palate, with mintyof licorice, plum, cherry with fruit cake-like medium bodied quaffers Nardone Baker Wara notes. $19.95confectionery, olive and flavours and soft, ripe that lack power and the Manta McLaren Vale Richard Hamiltoncoffee-like elements. tannins. $17 “wow” factor. However Shiraz 2011 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Haselgrove First Cut the best wines in the Mature, rich and 2011 HHH 5+ $19.95 McLaren Vale Shiraz group offered solid savoury, with a floral lift Yeasty, meaty note to 2012 HHHH lunchtime drinking to the nose and nicely the nose and firm tannicShoofly South A lovely, long, lingering without showing any textured palate. $15.95 palate. High acid. NeedsAustralia Shiraz wine, with an intense hardness or major faults. Shingleback time. $19.952012 HHHH concentration of dark HaycuttersA big wine, with unusual varietal fruit nicely Bayliss Road McLaren Vale Blackstone Paddockaromatic/herbal-like underscored by the McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2011 HHH Barossa Valleynotes to the meaty/ wood treatment and 2011 HHH1/2 Briary fruit/Vegemite Shiraz 2011 HHHsavoury nose. Rich and with firm tannins. $18 A good drink maturing bouquet and a long, Inky purple wine, withchewy in the mouth, Rosemount Diamond nicely, with licorice textured palate tasting nice concentration ofwith smoky, licorice Label South notes to the sweet fruit of blackcurrants and varietal fruit, savoury oakflavours. 3-5 $15 Australia Shiraz nose and good varietal prunes. $16.95 and good tannins. $19.99 2012 HHH1/2 purity on the palate. $17 Terra Mia Rosemount DistrictKirrihill Clare Valley Vibrant, purple wine, McLaren Vale Release AustraliaShiraz 2012 HHHH with simple, berry Fox Creek Red Baron Shiraz 2011 HHH Shiraz 2011 HHHBalanced, stylish and very fruit characters, drying McLaren Vale Shiraz Good array of dark fruit Lovely dark varietalmore-ish, with an intense tannins and high level 2011 HHH1/2 characters on the nose fruit characters, withconcentration of varietal of acid. Needs time to Rich and flavoursome, and palate, with licorice woody undertones.fruit, subtle use of oak shine. $15.99 with plums and tobacco and leathery notes. $17 Nose promises - palateand firm tannin backbone. Ballast Stone on the nose, and nice Virgara Wines delivers! $19.99Needs time. $16 Stonemason Shiraz intensity of fruit on Adelaide Shiraz 2012 HHH the palate, with firm 2011 HHH Good intensity of tannins. $17.50 Restrained dark fruit dark fruit characters, aromas, with a well- with some serious Old Gate balanced and complex (expensive) oak and fine McLaren Vale Shiraz gamey palate. $18 tannins. $15 2011 HHH1/2 Amberley Western Hereford Heathcote Aromatic lifted bouquet, Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHH with hints of Ribena 2011 HHH A tight and brooding and licorice. Sweet fruit Very tannic for now but purple shiraz, with palate, with some mouth has good varietal fruit savoury, leathery puckering tannins. $18 purity and plenty of acid. elements. Will Needs time. $18.99 improve with cellaring. Beach Head Hardys Oomoo by Credaro Margaret McLaren Vale Shiraz 3-5 $15 River Shiraz 2011 HHH 2011 HHH1/2 Simple and savoury, Aromatic fruit fragrances, with nice concentration with a hint of wood. of dark fruit and mocha- Palate is intense and like elements. $18.99 layered, with blackberry fruit and vanilla oak. $19 Andrew Locke Adam Clay DAY 2 - JUDGES Andrew has been a Penfolds winemaker in winemaker with Rosemount the Barossa Valley. Has Eddie Bonato Wines since 1998. Previously completed vintages at Winemaker for Berri he was a winemaker with Marchesi de Frescobaldi Estates. Formerly Orlando Wyndham and in Chianti and Pellegrin in winemaker at Cranswick De Bortoli Wines. He has California. Judge at the Estates. Associate judge completed vintages in the US Alternative Varieties show at the Griffith Wine Show and Loire (France). In 1993 he Cairns, Queensland Wine & Australian Cool Climate attended the AWRI advanced Awards and Clare Valley Wine Show. Vintaged in assessment course. wine show. Romania and California. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 89

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIISHIRAZ 2010 SHIRAZ 2009 Fox Creek JSM Grant Burge$15-$20 $15-$20 McLaren Vale Shiraz Daly Road Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Mourvedre 2010 HHH18 TASTED 6 TASTED Cabernet Franc Intriguing, slightly funky 1 AWARDED 2011 HHH1/2 fragrances and big,6 AWARDED Expressive black olive mouthfilling, sweet plum The judges found too bouquet, with similar fruit flavours. $23.95Some very good wines many tired wines in characters on the rich,here but there were this group. slightly oily palate. Firm SHIRAZ 2012also others that showed tannins and a savoury $20-$25“a wide range of oak Brygon Reserve finish. $22.50treatment not matched The Bruce Margaret Hollick Stock Route 10 TASTEDwith residual sweet fruit River Shiraz Shiraz Cabernet 6 AWARDEDand so resulted in forward 2009 HHH 2010 HHH1/2wines,” said one judge. Nutty, mealy nose, Big, sweet, jubey fruit A high standard here with with a medicinal lift. style, with a lovely the recommended wines;Eagle and the Fool Sweet fruit palate, with tannin structure and overall fresh lively fruitBarossa Valley Shiraz some development attractive chocolaty without being overdone.2010 HHHH1/2 evident. $17.99 notes. $20An intense crimsonwine, with fresh lifted Brygon Reserve SHIRAZ Paracombe Adelaideminty notes to the Bin 882 Margaret BLENDS Hills Shiraz Viognierdark fruit-driven nose. River Shiraz $20-$25 2010 HHH1/2Big mouthfilling fleshy 2010 HHH Bright, fruit pastillefruit flavours framed by Smells of walnuts and 10 TASTED aromas and robustlicorice elements and roasted coffee with tannic palate that hasluscious tannins. $19.95 brambly notes. Good 7 AWARDED balance and complexityFifth Leg Western weight and complexity of olives, plums andAustralia Shiraz to the palate. $16.99 A solid bracket across licorice. $212010 HHHH Jacob’s Creek the various vintages. Deep Woods EstateBright jubey fruit aromas, Reserve Barossa Surprising freshness Shiraz et al Margaretwith subtle spicy touches. Shiraz 2010 HHH showing in a few of the River ShirazPalate is an aromatic Rich mocha nose, with 2011 blends. Grenache Mourvedrefruit bomb that is very a suggestion of cough 2011 HHHelegant and seamlessly drops. Palate is full and Anvers Razorback Blackcurrant nose,balanced. $17.99 firm with “serious’’ Road Adelaide Hills with an aniseed lift.Old Gate fruit. $17.99 Shiraz Cabernet Complexity of raspberryMcLaren Vale Shiraz Nostalgia Wines 2012 HHHH1/2 and cola flavours framed2010 HHHH Harlequin Margaret “All things nice!” by oak tannins. $20Big, rich, old-fashioned River Shiraz proclaimed one judge. Penny’s Hillstyle of shiraz, with 2010 HHH Bright, perfumed, dark Specializedmouthfilling chocolaty Nicely perfumed fruity berry nose, with oaky McLaren Vale Shirazflavours mingling with bouquet and firmly complexity. Velvety in the Cabernet Merlot Sanguine Estatedark brooding fruit and big structured, dark fruit mouth, with loads of fruit 2011 HHH Progeny Heathcotetannins. Hot finish. $18 palate, with subtle spicy flavour and lovely fine Licorice aromas and Shiraz 2012 HHHHH oak. $19.99 tannins with a warming bright berry palate, with a A very elegant and classy finish. 5+ $22 savoury finish. Very good shiraz. A great nose with for a 2011 vintage. $24 loads of mulberry fruit, black pepper and a toasty oak profile. More of the same on the palate which shows great oak use. A really lovely wine. $20DAY 3 - JUDGES Kevin Glastonbury Mark Lloyd Senior winemaker for Proprietor and winemaker Ryan Waples Yalumba Wine Company. for Coriole. More than 25 Senior winemaker for More than 20 years’ years’ experience in the Taylors Wines in Clare experience in various wine industry. Associate Valley. Formerly with capacities in both small judge at the Adelaide Wine Orlando Wyndham and and large wineries in the Show. Member of Olive Oil Delegat’s/Oyster Bay in Barossa Valley. Former Assessment Panel. New Zealand. Judge at the Winestate Australian Rutherglen wine show and Winemaker of the Year. completed the Advanced Wine Assessment Course in 2004.90 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingWicks Estate Jack Estate Wolf Blass Saint Cosme Cotes SHIRAZ 2010Adelaide Hills Shiraz Coonawarra Presidents’ du Rhone Syrah $20-$252012 HHHH1/2 Wrattonbully Shiraz Selection South 2011 HHHWhite pepper and 2012 HHHH Australia Shiraz Leafy herbal aromas 26 TASTEDmulberries fill the glass A pot pourri bouquet, 2011 HHHH1/2 and Cherry Ripe-like 12 AWARDEDwith lovely fragrances. with just a hint of roses. Bright and clean fruit- characters on the simple “A good bracket, withThe flavoursome, dark A very sweet, fresh and driven aromas of plums and delicate palate. $20 the better wines standingfruit palate has slightly generous spicy fruit and blackberries, with Wild Fox Organic out,” noted one judge.earthy/forest floor-like palate, with firm tannins a hint of spice. Palate Preservative Free “Some wines showedelements and a bright, and toasty oak. $20 is soft and generous, South Australia development as insweet finish. $20 and overflowing with Shiraz 2011 HHH complexity, while othersZonte’s Footstep McHenry brooding chocolaty/ A lovely combination of showed developmentBaron Von Nemesis Hohnen Vintners briary flavours. Very fruit cake, chocolate and in a bad way, lackingBarossa Valley Margaret River drinkable! $24 licorice characters on freshness and vibrancy,”Shiraz 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHHH Shingleback nose and palate. $20 said another.An old-school style, with A big, rich, youthful wine The Davey Estate Goldingpowerful rich licoricey that needs more time to McLaren Vale The Handcraft Hugo McLaren Valefruit, coconut oak and develop its full potential. Shiraz 2011 HHHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2010 HHHHHfirm chunky tannins. Plenty of black fruits and Nice “fruits of the Shiraz 2011 HHH Lifted and complexA wine that definitely toasty oak, with a nice forest” characters here, Some lively, vibrant, aromas smelling of redneeds a large steak! $22 menthol lift. $21.60 with a eucalypt-like dark fruit elements, berries, plums and toasty lift and aromatic oak with black pepper quite oak. The fruit-driven Zonte’s Footstep adding sweetness dominant. $22 palate has upfront Lake Doctor and interest. Long and Rockbare sweetness, some well- Langhorne Creek balanced. $23.50 McLaren Vale Shiraz handled oak, good overall Shiraz 2012 HHH Grampians Estate 2011 HHH weight and balance. Confectionery sweet Mafeking Shiraz Earthy nose and simple A drink-now style. $24 nose and smooth, 2011 HHH1/2 palate showing length and savoury palate, with lifted Cool fruit, with powerful real fruit texture. $22.95 herbal elements. $22 spearmint characters Climbing Orange and a dash of pepper. Shiraz 2011 HHH SHIRAZ 2011 Savoury tannins and a A light style, with bright, $20-$25 dusty oak finish. $24 simple, clean fruit and Heathcote Winery some development. 25 TASTED Cravens Place Drink now! $23.99 11 AWARDED Australia Shiraz Penny’s Hill 2011 HHH Crackling Black Good wines were few Lifted, aromatic, briary McLaren Vale Shiraz and far between but fruit and oak nose. Oak 2011 HHH none-the-less some really adds sweetness to the Subtle, earthy, worthy of attention. cherry palate. $20 mushroom characters For the east coast the Rosenvale Home mingle with dark vintage was the issue Grown Barossa chocolaty fruit and resulting in earthy Shiraz 2011 HHH sweet spicy oak. $24 mushroom notes and dry, Blueberry and beetroot tough tannins. “The fruit on the nose; plums and richness was not there to herbs on the palate, with cover the tannins.” good oak tannins. $20Luke Steele Shane Harris DAY 4 - JUDGESAssociate Winemaker Winemaker for Wines bywith Jim Barry Wines. Geoff Hardy including, Jack WaltonConsultant winemaker Pertaringa Wines, K1 and (Day 4 & 5)in Germany’s Pfalz Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Senior winemaker forregion along with Wines. Has also completed d’Arenberg Wines forvintages in Hermitage, vintages in Queensland and the past ten years. HasHawkes Bay, Napa Valley Victoria. Completed the AWRI vintaged in France andand Frankland River. advanced sensory course Italy. Associate judge at theOrganiser at the recent and has associate judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show.Clare Valley wine show. McLaren Vale Wine Show. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 91

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIRosemount Estate Bremerton Selkirk Lambrook Paracombe Zema EstateLittle Berry Langhorne Creek Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009 HHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Jubey, jammy-like fruit2010 HHHHH Savoury and slightly Malty/dark berry bouquet Nose and palate show on both the vibrant noseA medium weight style, developed aromas and and an attractive palate, lovely varietal fruit and lively palate. A touchwith restrained floral/ a big, firm palate, with with a pleasant flavour expression of plums, herbal, with a dash offorest fruit fragrances smooth tannins and profile. $20 brambles and berries. spice. $20and very fresh, bright varietal fruit that is still Pertaringa Soft in the mouth withand youthful palate, fresh. $22 Undercover Shiraz spicy oak. $21 Morgan Simpsonwith lingering cherry 2010 HHH Basket Presspalate showing a violet Rich, savoury nose McLaren Vale Shirazlift, savoury oak and a reminiscent of roast 2009 HHHmenthol finish. $20 meats, with more Youthful, fruit-driven gravy and meat-like nose and greatMitchelton flavours. $22 combination of agedCentral Victoria characters and denseShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Leasingham fruit flavours. $22A complex and attractive Bin 61 Clare Valleywine, with a dark, Shiraz 2010 HHH SHIRAZbrooding, berry bouquet Aromatic plum BLENDSsubtly underscored by aromas; some mint and $25-$30savoury oak. Rich and savoury herbal flavours,fleshy in the mouth, grainy tannins and classy 10 TASTEDwith lovely flavours of oak. $22.99 4 AWARDEDmulberries and plums.Nice tannins. $22 Wyndham Estate Shingleback Springton Hills A tough call, with theKirrihill George Wyndham The Davey Estate Wines Rock Ridge blends tending to beTullymore Vineyard Langhorne Creek McLaren Vale Shiraz Eden Valley Shiraz leaner in style thanClare Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 the straight varietals.2010 HHHH1/2 An enjoyable drink, A classic wine, with Smells of wine gums and All over the place inA big, robust, masculine, with a peppery, spicy generous varietal fruit plums, and is soft, warm terms of style. “Verydeep crimson wine, with bouquet and a lovely and smoky oak on both and sweet in the mouth. vintage dependent,”a focus on texture. Palate creamy smooth palate, nose and palate. $23.50 Simple but a good commented one judge.offers a mouthful of dark, with earthy, spicy “punters” wine. $22fleshy, berry and dark elements. $21.99 SHIRAZ 2009 Maycas del Limari Devil’s Lair Danceplum fruit layered with Blackbilly $20-$25 Reserva Chile Syrah with the Deviltoasty oak and a complex McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHH Margaret Rivertannin backbone. $22 2010 HHH1/2 13 TASTED Plum aromas, with Shiraz TempranilloHardys Tintara Big, sweet, juicy fruit 5 AWARDED enticing spicy notes. 2011 HHHMcLaren Vale Shiraz nose and soft, rich, Palate layered with dark A big, generous, fruit2010 HHHH savoury, earthy palate, Quite a few wines fruit, toasty oak and bomb of a wine, withAttractive, lifted, plum with soft, powdery here showed advanced spiciness. $20 a touch of savouryfruit nose, with a lovely tannins. $22 characters, with varied seriousness to addtextured palate full of palate styles ranging interest. $25bright, fleshy, plum from “jubey” sweetflavours layered with to savoury. However Cradle of Hillsgrainy tannins. $24.99 these were mainly in the Shiraz Mourvedre mid-weight wines and 2010 HHH the best offered nice A robust, earthy nose drinking quaffers. and rich sweet and nicely layered palate, DAY 5 - JUDGES with good depth of flavour. $25 Simon Parker Senior winemaker and Brian Miller winery manager with Sales and Marketing Haselgrove Wines. A Kiwi, Manager for Catene born in Gisborne, he d’Italia, consults to several has also been a “flying Australian wineries and winemaker” in France for is a member of the two vintages. Previous Export Tasting Panel of positions were at the Australian Wine & Pirramimma and Buronga Brandy Corporation. Also, Hill wineries. a former Brand Manager with Seppelts Wines.92 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingMr Riggs Piebald Taylors Jaraman Saint Clair Premium Quilty Black Grant Burge MiambaMcLaren Vale Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz New Zealand Syrah Thimble Mudgee Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2Viognier 2010 HHH 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHH Shiraz 2011 HHH Big, generous, fruit/oakSavoury, leathery A full and powerful Smells and tastes of Massive amount of aromas showing a slightlyaromas, with a hint of punter’s wine, with mulberries, mocha, toasty oak tends to earthy edge. Good varietalapricots. Lovely chewy, some lovely vibrant dark violets and spices. Good swamp the fruit but fruit palate, with subtlechocolaty layers on the varietal fruit, attractive acid. Surprisingly soft offers a big mouthful of sweet spicy notes, somepalate. $27 spiciness and smoky tannins. $26.50 flavour. $28 biscuity-like oak and well- oak. $29.50 Hentley Farm structured tannins. WillWolf Blass Gold Barossa Valley Fox Creek Short age well. $27.45Label Adelaide Hills Wolf Blass Gold Shiraz 2011 HHH Row McLaren Vale Howard VineyardShiraz Viognier Label Barossa Shiraz Dark, brooding, plum-like Shiraz 2011 HHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz2010 HHH 2011 HHH1/2 varietal fruit, with a big Intense, rich and slightly 2010 HHHHBright berry fruit lift A big, brooding monster, hit of toasty oak and porty, with a VA lift to Good level and intensityto the nose and more with jubey blackcurrant good tannin depth. $25 the nose and a long, of bright varietal fruitberries on the palate, aromas and a ripe, Thorn-Clarke Shotfire warming palate. $28.50 showing a slight savourywith obvious oak. $28 full-bodied palate filling Barossa Valley Shiraz edge, plenty of lively the mouth with fruit 2011 HHH SHIRAZ 2010 tannins and a good lineSHIRAZ flavours. $28 Rich and generous, with $25-$30 of fresh acid. $252012-2011 McPherson Family good mouthfeel, cherry Scarpantoni$25-$30 Chapter Three berry fruit and fine 33 TASTED Old Vine California Strathbogie Ranges tannin finish. $25 25 AWARDED Road McLaren Vale22 TASTED Shiraz 2012 HHH Two Steps Mount Shiraz 2010 HHHH12 AWARDED Pretty, perfumed, fruit Barker Frankland Now we are talking! Ageing, rusty red colour, aromas and bright Shiraz 2011 HHH Lots more concentration red currant aromas, with2011 was a very difficult berry fruit on the warm, A big drive of toasty oak, compared with the last spicy/minty notes and avintage in some east peppery palate. $25 with good depth of dark few classes. “Lots of well-structured palate withcoast regions but good varietal fruit and some salty, saucy, sweet fruit chewy tannins. Starting towinemaking techniques spicy notes. $26.50 wines,” noted one judge. show some age. $25made the most of fruit Capel Vale Wine A very consistent groupavailable, although some Regional Mount of good drinking wines.failed to adjust to the Barker Shirazproblem vintage. But as 2011 HHH Anversone judge pointed out, Good example of McLaren Vale Shirazsome regions enjoyed an the variety and the 2010 HHHH1/2excellent 2011 vintage. region. Black plum fruit “Whoa,” exclaimed one and nice toasty oak judge. A massive winePepperjack presence. $26.95 absolutely brimmingMcLaren Vale Shiraz Rothbury Gerry over with bright jubey,2011 HHHH1/2 Sissingh Hunter currant/plum-like fruit,A well-made, stylish Valley Shiraz with good solid oak driveshiraz, with pretty lifted 2011 HHH to match the fruit and afloral nose. Smooth A wine with style and firm, tannic finish. $28and balanced varietal finesse. Cool, mintycharacters carry across nose and firm, tannic Tenafeate Creekthe entire length of the palate with good acid Basket Press Onepalate to the finish. line. $27.99 Tree Hill Shiraz“A complete wine,” 2010 HHHH1/2said one judge. $29 A big, hot, intense style of shiraz, with some pretty florals lifting off the dusty cola-like nose. Very rich and quite porty on a palate that’s cloying, chewy and complex. $25 DAY 6 - JUDGES - TROPHY DAYPhillip John Phil Reedman MW Wolf Blass AM, BVKChief winemaker and Master of Wine. Wine and Legendary Foundermanager for Hungerford retail industry consultant. of Wolf Blass Wines.Hill and former chief Formerly product Wolf has a winemakingwhite winemaker for development manager of legacy spanning overLindemans. Senior show Tesco stores, responsible 40 years, and a historyjudge at major capital for Australia, New Zealand of Industry Leadership!city wine shows. and South America. Has Continues to be world judging experience in the wide ambassador for Riverland, Adelaide Hills and Wolf Blass Wines. McLaren Vale wine shows. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 93

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIClarence Hill Reserve Longview Yakka Craneford Malone Wrattonbully SHIRAZMcLaren Vale Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH 2012-20112010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH Generous amount of $30-$35A big wine exhibiting Light and cool, with some Complex wine, with sweet plum fruit, withheaps of power, with minty freshness, good richness, ripeness and a balance of attractive 10 TASTEDa generous amount of length of savoury/sweet density of mouthcoating savoury elements. 8 AWARDEDsweet, dark fruit and fruit characters and nice flavours and chewy Spicy lift to the nose A very nice consistentsome stylish, somewhat chewy tannins. $27 tannins. $27.95 and long and silky in class of different styles,drying tannins. $28 Jester Hill Wines the mouth. $28 ranging from the elegant,Peter Lehmann Touchstone Eppalock Ridge Palmers cool-climate ones to theFutures Barossa Granite Belt Shiraz Heathcote Margaret River bigger, well-balanced,Shiraz 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH plummy wines.Smells of plums, violets A toasty, oak-driven A savoury nose and a Succulent, savoury, Paxton Quandongand rose petals. Very full, wine but also has a lean, elegant, nicely Rhone-like shiraz. Farm McLaren Valerich, luscious fruit palate, rich concentration of layered and well- Excellent retention of Shiraz 2011 HHHHgreat mouthcoating meaty/ savoury fruit structured palate. $28 vibrant spicy varietal Very expressive,tannins, toasty oak and characters and good fruit, oak adds interest ”shaded” varietalalcohol heat. $28 tannin depth. $28 Knee Deep and complexity. fruit characters. SlightVidal Reserve Series Malone Wrattonbully Margaret River Generous acidity. $28 herbaceous notes toSyrah 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH Polleters Y@’s the nose and a long,A pretty nose - bright, Some pretty minty- Medium bodied wine, Moonambel Shiraz lean and elegant palate.lifted and floral. Simple edged, cooler-climate with a light, spicy, 2008 HHH1/2spicy strawberry- fruit nicely layered candied fruit nose and A nice integration of 3-5 $30like fruit palate, with with the oak, and soft, jubey fruit filling the juicy sweet berry fruit,amazing freshness and showing some attractive mouth. $28 soft toasty oak and firm Elephant Hillshowing some peppery savouriness. $28 tannins all framed with a Hawke’s Bay Syrahelements. $29.99 Gumpara Victor’s Wolf Blass Gold fresh line of acid. $25 2012 HHHHDogRidge Shirtfront Old Vine Barossa Label Barossa Highland A fresher, leaner,McLaren Vale Shiraz Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH Heritage Estate cool-climate style -2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH Big, chunky style. Shiraz 2009 HHH very New Zealand,Nutty concentration to Dark, brooding Brooding, plum fruit Dense, sweet, chocolaty with stylish, youthful,the nose and a nicely concentration of plum density and ripeness nose. Some elegance to spicy fruit layered withtextured, sweet fruit aromas. Generous, balanced by good acid the palate, with dry red minerally/ironstone-likepalate layered with spices, complex palate. Very freshness. $28 flavours. $25 elements. $34violets and mocha. $25 sweet in the middle. $25 Shaw Vineyard Estate Coriole McLaren ValeEldredge Blue Chip D’Angelo Estate 2 Mates Premium Australia Shiraz 2011 HHHHClare Valley Shiraz Ben’s Officer Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH A typical warmer style2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH 2010 HHH Slightly developing, shiraz, with goodNice cool-climate Pretty bright fruit Smells of plum sauce. brooding, dark fruit integration of varietal fruit/characters here, with aromas and a juicy, Has sweet/sour fruit aromas and a “slurpy”, oak aromas and excellentlingering minty aromas jubey, fruit palate, with flavours, with nutty dark fruit/toasty oak depth of fresh, vibrant,and floral hints. Stylish some toasty oak. $25 notes and hints of dried palate. $25 varietal flavours. $30palate of sweet berries Montara Grampians herbs. $29.50 Ashbrook Estateand oak. $25 Shiraz 2010 HHH Margaret RiverMcGuigan A good savoury style, SHIRAZ Shiraz 2009 HHHThe Shortlist with plenty to offer and 2009 & OLDER A good food wine withBarossa Valley slightly dominated by $25-$30 rustic, savoury aromasShiraz 2010 HHH1/2 spicy oak. $25 and dry/sour cherryNose shows pretty She-Oak Hill 15 TASTED flavours. $27aromatics with slight Estate Heathcote 8 AWARDED Gapsted Ballerinaherbaceous characters. Shiraz 2010 HHH Canopy King ValleySome plums and A simpler, stewed fruit Generally a nice group Shiraz 2009 HHHspices on the warming shiraz with some alcohol of elegant, mid-weight Very rich and generouspalate. $25 heat, textured tannins wines, rather than the style, with redMurray Street and oak sweetness. $25 blockbusters. “Have currant edge to the berryVineyards Black Serafino Shiraz winemakers moved fruit. Some chocolatyLabel Barossa Valley 2010 HHH too far to lighter styles notes. $27Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 A big, generous wine, thereby losing flavour?”,A big, brooding bouquet with volumes of rustic, asked one judge.but a lean and elegant currant-like, sweetpalate, with dark varietal fruit. $26 Jester Hill Winesplum fruit seamlessly Touchstonebalanced by the oak. $25 Granite Belt Shiraz 2009 HHHH Nice integration of the currant fruit and oak aromas, with brooding berry flavours layered with chocolate, violets and spicy elements. $2594 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge 2013 2010 Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIThe Derek SHIRAZ La Curio Reserve SHIRAZ Foxeys HangoutHeathcote Shiraz & BLENDS McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 & OLDER Mornington2011 HHHH 2010 2010 HHHH $30-$35 Peninsula ShirazPlenty of bright $30-$35 A big, hot, powerful 2012 HHHHHstonefruit characters, wine, with boot polish, 9 TASTED Great colour; verywith minty/lavender 21 TASTED cherries and chocolate 4 AWARDED purple. Lovely liftnotes, framed with 11 AWARDED on the nose, great of black pepper tochewy tannins and flavour persistence and Another mixed lot, with the dense, broodingshowing an excellent A mixed result here. fine grainy tannins. $31 some advanced wines and “serious” nose.level of complexity. $30 While it was a good Morambo Creek and a few holding up Powerful peppery fruitFromm vintage overall, some Padthaway Shiraz well for their age. on the long, beautifullyFromm Vineyard winemakers may have 2010 HHH1/2 poised palate. Will ageLa Strada got carried away with the Nose is a complexity of Blue Pyrenees well. $45Marlborough Syrah fruit level involved and too oak and raspberries. Reserve Australia Heathcote Winery2011 HHH1/2 many were heavy handed A creamy, well-balanced Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Slaughter HouseEarthy elements to the with their use of oak. palate, with syrupy Nice spice and tobacco Paddock Australiadark berry nose, with sweet fruit and leathery bouquet, with some Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2peppery characters Hand Crafted by notes. $31.95 earthiness. Intriguing Very tight at the moment,adding interest to the Geoff Hardy Shiraz Blesing’s Garden complexity to the with bright primarypalate with its chewy 2010 HHHH1/2 Southern Flinders palate but still has varietal fruit characters -tannins. $34 Loads of earthy, gamey Rangers Shiraz freshness. $30 sweet but not overDrayton’s Family aromas, with underlying 2010 HHH done. Big, peppery/spicyWines Vineyard dark cherry fruit A big, sweet wine, with Box Stallion lift. “Love the acid andReserve Pokolbin characters. Palate still powerful, creamy oak Mornington tannin profile,” said oneShiraz 2011 HHH quite tight and beautifully sitting on top of dark, Peninsula Shiraz judge. $44Some obvious oak framed by minerally brooding, berry fruits. $30 2009 HHH Sandalfordsitting on top of the rich, tannins. Starting to Elderton Shiraz A big lift of jammy fruit Estate Reservesoft, spicy, plum fruit. mature nicely but needs 2010 HHH on the nose, with a dash Margaret RiverA nice quaffer. $30 more time. $30 Dark, inky nose with of pepper and a minty, Shiraz 2011 HHHHRidgeView some raisined-like peppery palate. $30 Bright, fresh, red fruitImpressions The Gate by notes on the palate, bouquet and good varietalHunter Valley Shingleback supple tannins and fine Milhinch Wines fruit ripeness on theShiraz 2011 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz acid line. $30 Seize the Day palate - still tight and firm,Vibrant, rich and warm 2010 HHHH1/2 Hahndorf Hill Single Vineyard with some spicy notes.plum fruit, with spicy A distinctive style, with Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Needs more time. $35overtones and big acid plenty of room to fill Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009 HHH Shark’s Blockline to balance. $30 out - has lots of lovely Shiraz 2010 HHH A huge, well put together McLaren Vale ShirazCraggy Range varietal fruit, plenty of Complex meaty aromas, style ageing nicely but 2011 HHHHHawkes Bay Syrah serious oak and some gamey savoury palate still has freshness and “A fantastic wine,”2011 HHH wonderful charry tannins and lovely chalky fine fruit nuances. $30 enthused one judge. VeryA pleasant aperitif wine, all seamlessly integrated. tannins. $30 fleshy, with attractivewith clean, fresh, vibrant M. Virgara & Sons Waverley Estate red fruits, nice use of oakplum and pepper fruit, and 5+ $34.95 Virgara Wines Hunter Valley and fine layering of softlong, lean tannins. $31.95 Adelaide Shiraz Shiraz 2006 HHH tannins. $39.49 Pirramimma 2010 HHH Very developed, with Goldie Waiheke McLaren Vale Shiraz Smells of rhubarb with a some attractive fresh Island Syrah 2010 HHHH minty lift. Slightly warm leather and lifted spicy 2012 HHH1/2 A developed, chocolaty, palate, with sweet/sour characters. $30 Quite a savoury nose, oak-driven shiraz. Lots of fruit flavours. $30 with loads of pepper and oak but the wine holds Milhinch Wines SHIRAZ spice. Lovely fruit intensity it well. Palate very long Seize the Day Single 2012-2011 on the palate, with some and grippy, with dark, Vineyard Barossa $35-$50 earthy influence. $36 earthy fruit. $30 Valley Shiraz Credaro Family Cabernet Sauvignon 22 TASTED Estate Margaret River Sutherland Estate 2010 HHH 12 AWARDED Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 Daniel’s Hill A complex style Intense, powerful Vineyards Yarra exhibiting characters of The judges thought this wine, with great earthy Valley Shiraz boot polish, olives, sweet flight had stepped up characters, lots of peppery 2010 HHHH cherries and spices. $30 a notch. Interestingly, elements and fine A big lift of raspberries on there was more primary powdery tannins. $40 the meaty/licoricey nose. fruit and less oak here. Deep Woods Black olive and bright red “The 2011s sucked up Estate Block 7 fruit palate. “My cellar the oak from a cooler- Margaret River needs this wine,” said climate year. In hotter Shiraz 2011 HHH one judge. $30 years the alcohol and A solid, oaky number, oak tend to fight each with nutty notes to the other,” said one judge. nose and simple, sweet fruit lurking beneath. $3596 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingGrampians Estate SHIRAZGarden Gully & BLENDSVineyard St Ethels 2010Shiraz 2011 HHH $35-$50Some lovely fruitcharacters reminiscent 42 TASTEDof wild strawberries,spearmint and white 25 AWARDEDpepper. $35 An excellent class overall. “Well deserved results here, with loads of structure and ageing potential,” said one judge. “Great to drink now or put away; these are classic Australian shiraz”. The lesser wines showed too much extraction.Nanny Goat Vineyards Penfolds Bin 28 Grant Burge Crossroads Normans ChaisCentral Otago Syrah Kalimna Shiraz Filsell Barossa Winemakers Clarendon McLaren2012 HHH 2010 HHHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Collection Gimblett Vale Barossa ShirazA very delicate floral nose, Nose closed for now Great colour and a Gravels Syrah 2010 HHHHwith similar characters on but promises much to vibrant, perfumed nose 2010 HHHH Smells like a blackberrythe tightly coiled palate. come! Tight and oaky showing some attractive, A nice lift of meaty-pan pie! Has a very denseNeeds a couple of years. in the mouth but in peaty notes. Big oaky/ juice aromas. Loads of and intense, flavoursome harmony with the nice grippy tannic palate black pepper and spice palate, with nice tannic 2-3 $36 core of varietal fruit. with lovely red fruit on the palate. Interesting grip. Just needs time toYelland & Papps Some spiciness and a underneath. Beautiful rhubarb and rose petal open up. $45.95Second Take lively, minerally, acid mouthfeel. Has lots of flavours. $41.95 Grant BurgeBarossa Valley spine. $37.99 potential! $45.95 Wolf Blass Grey The Vigneron NaturalShiraz 2012 HHH Saltram Mamre Penny’s Hill Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHHBig lift of boysenberries Brook Barossa Skeleton Key Shiraz 2010 HHHH A serious wine, with aon the nose and a Shiraz 2010 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Awesome colour, woody/cherry bouquet“cracker jack” of a palate Fantastic colour and 2010 HHHH aromas of marzipan and a complex,- very Amarone-like. $40 another closed nose Lifted varietal fruit and almond meal. Big, well-constructed andWistmosa Wines that’s all chocolaty and bouquet with a slight warming palate, with a seamless palate withoutScarce Earth forest floor-like. Thick medicinal note and huge punch of flavour. any harsh edges. $49.95McLaren Vale Shiraz extracted, but not over complex palate with “A great wine,” said one K1 by Geoff Hardy2011 HHH done; brooding, dark fruit earthy elements. judge. $45 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2“A great slurpy wine,” flavours framed by a good Quite developed. Gamey, leathery notes tosaid one judge. tannin structure. $38 Ready for drinking. $35 the raspberry compoteGood fruit length and Reillys RCV aromas. Big, spicy/depth, and some nice Clare Valley Shiraz purple, fruit palate, withwoodiness. $35 2010 HHHH very good length. $35Ross Hill Pinnacle Lovely fragrances of Paxton Jones BlockOrange Shiraz wild flowers and sweet McLaren Vale Shiraz2011 HHH raspberries. Lean, tight 2010 HHH1/2A pretty bouquet of palate; barnyardy hints A big, powerful, dark andstrawberry jam; leafy/ and riding on acid. Loads brooding wine; loads ofearthy notes. Simple, of potential. $45 chocolate and leather,long, well-balanced Pirramimma and bright blackberry fruitpalate. Soft tannins. $40 McLaren Vale Shiraz threaded through. $37 Viognier 2010 HHHH Pertaringa “A big, solid, ‘he-man’ Over the Top Shiraz style,” according to one 2010 HHH1/2 judge. Chocolaty/cherry Earthy, cherries and cola nose, and dark vanilla, and spices on chocolate and licorice the nose. Well-defined root flavours. $35 and focused varietal palate. Lots of tannins and acid. $40 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 97

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIGibson Reserve The Colonial Estate Fromm Vineyard Verdun Park Wines Rosenvale ReserveBarossa Shiraz Exploration Barossa Marlborough Albert Arthur Barossa Valley2010 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz Syrah 2010 HHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHA complexity of 2010 HHH Masses of pepper and 2009 HHHH Very “explosive”, meatyspearmint, violet, black A more developed spice on the nose, with Blueberry nose, with a lift aromas and a rich palateand red fruits, and some chocolaty style. Lovely more of the pepper on the of black olives and hints with sweet/sour flavourminerally notes, with minerally elements and lean, acidic palate. $49 of mint. Nice compact profile. $39nice oak handling. $44 tarry, floral characters. palate - very forward Symphony HillIndigo Secret Village Needs steak! $35 SHIRAZ varietal flavours and long, Wines Granite BeltBeechworth Shiraz Nepenthe Gate & BLENDS chalky tannins. $37 Shiraz Viognier2010 HHH1/2 Block Adelaide Hills 2009 2009 HHHComplex and compact, Shiraz 2010 HHH $35-$50 Taltarni Estate Nice balance of the twowith good clarity and Nice presence of Pyrenees Shiraz varieties. Red fruit andlift of varietal fruit, and rhubarb, red apples and 21 TASTED 2009 HHHH mocha aromas, andsupported by some dried herb characters, 14 AWARDED Pure varietal fruit focused palate. Classylovely spicy acidity. $45 with fine chalky tannin expression on the nose, tannins. $45Long Block Estate support. $36 A consistent class from with peppery, minty Sanguine EstateBrave Reserve Wynns Coonawarra what one judge called touches. On the palate Estate HeathcoteHeathcote Shiraz Estate Black Label “a sleeper vintage”. oak plays a supporting Shiraz 2009 HHH2010 HHH Coonawarra Shiraz Those that made the roll to the fruit - as it Earthy, beetroot-likeMocha/dark fruit 2010 HHH grade showed surprising should! $40 fragrances, with similarbouquet and solid oaky Bright, fresh and simple freshness for their age. Griffin Reserve characters on the velvetypalate with lovely chewy primary aromas and Adelaide Hills Shiraz smooth palate. $40tannins. $35 upfront sweet fruit Palmers Margaret 2009 HHH Rockbare BarossaClaymore Nirvana flavours on a warm River Shiraz Dark fruit, leather and Babe Barossa ValleyReserve Clare Valley palate. $38 2009 HHHH spice on the nose and Shiraz 2009 HHHShiraz 2010 HHH Coopers Creek Pleasant, medium-bodied big, hot, spicy and Dark, brooding andInky, brooding bouquet Reserve Hawke’s Bay wine with a lift of black chocolaty palate. $35 developing aromas, andand quite an oak-focused Syrah 2010 HHH pepper on the nose powerful, oak-dominantpalate, with boysenberry- Cough syrup and cherry and sweet oak flavours palate. $39.95like fruit. $45 cola on the nose; lovely layered with some rich Honey MoonSandalford Estate richness to the palate. $45 berry fruit. $35 Vineyard AdelaideReserve Margaret Gartelmann Diedrich Hills ShirazRiver Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH2010 HHH 2010 HHH A big, fragrant, fruitBig hit of sweet red Nice cranberry lift to the bomb of a wine that’svarietal fruits on nose. Good fruit vitality on still shows reasonablethe lifted nose and the balanced palate. $45 freshness. $47.50confectionery sweet Honey Moonpalate. $35 Vineyard Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2010 HHH Interesting funky, meaty aromas. Sweet and peppery on the complex palate, with an oaky finish. $47.50 STAR RATINGS  Springton Hills K1 by Geoff Hardy Peter Lehmann Wines Koop Creek Shiraz 2009 HHH 8 Songs BarossaThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Reserve Eden Valley Blueberry/licorice nose, Shiraz 2009 HHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Shiraz 2009 HHHH with a peppery lift. Toasty, developed cedaryAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry A bright, youthful wine, Nice blend and focus oak aromas and someprofessionals and are compared in peer with a spicy, sweet of sweet and savoury sweetness comingclasses by three judges. lift to the nose and flavours. $35 through on the palate. $44CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, intense, mouthfilling Alkoomi Jarraha major mail-order business. flavours layered with Frankland RiverCD Cellar door price. spice and chocolate. Shiraz 2009 HHHCDO Cellar door only. Chewy tannins. $45 A big, rich, old-schoolSO Sold out. style of shiraz. Still has$N/A Price not available at time of printing. loads of fruit and grippy Contact information pg 168. tannins. $39 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au98 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

varietal tastingJacob’s Creek St Drayton’s FamilyHugo Barossa Shiraz Wines William2009 HHH Pokolbin ShirazAn old style, with ripe 2007 HHHHlifted fruit, excellent Slightly restrainedtannins and good level varietal fruit showingof acid. $49.99 some light, dusty notes and with the sweet oakSHIRAZ standing out. Almost& BLENDS cabernet-like in style. $452008 & OLDER Dindima Orange$35-$50 Shiraz 2008 HHHH Still quite bright and16 TASTED tight, with the primary13 AWARDED fruit layered with soy and leather and peppery“The cream always elements. Nicelycomes to the top,” textured palate. $38as evidenced by this Neil Hahn Catharinaexcellent and consistent Barossa Valleygroup of wines from Shiraz 2006 HHHHolder vintages. Very developed, with lovely layers of savouryPalmer Margaret olive and soy-like fruit.River Shiraz The lovely tannins add2008 HHHH1/2 softness and eleganceA youthful, inky wine, to the palate. $49.95with a spicy/floral/herbalbouquet and plush, richand rounded in the mouth,with irresistible tanninframework that keeps thewine looking young. $45The Islander OldRowley KangarooIsland ShirazGrenache Viognier2008 HHHHDeep, rich, mahoganynose and beautifullydeveloped prune andraisin palate, with goodgritty tannins. Drink now -“by the bucket full!”. $35James Haselgrove Zema Estate Family Yorke Peninsula’sFutures McLaren Selection Shiraz award winningVale Shiraz 2006 HHHH vineyard2008 HHHH Aged but still richSlightly sour, herbal and powerful, with aaromas, with a rich, caramel edge to thebright, fruit palate that has nose and tight,some nicely integrated well-focused flavourstannins and intense with mouthcoatingdevelopment. $38 tannins. $40Bethany EstateReserve LE BarossaValley Shiraz2008 HHHHGenerous dark fruitsof mulberries andblueberries, with niceintegration of smoky oak.A very long, lingering andflavoursome palate. $48 September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 99

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIIIYarravale Reserve Fox Creek Reserve Richard Hamilton Mollydooker Hentley FarmYarra Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Centurion McLaren Blue Eyed Boy The Quintessential2006 HHH1/2 2011 HHHHH Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Barossa ValleyOak-driven style with ripe, A very big, stylish, young 2011 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2011 HHHH Shiraz Cabernetstewed fruit notes on the thing, with almost black “Quite French in style,” Lovely ethereal, leafy 2011 HHHHnose and very soft, silky concentration of colour. thought one judge. A green aromas and A very well constructedpalate, with excellent There is a massive lovely mixed array of excellent, long, lingering wine, with a nicevelvety tannins. $35 amount of dark varietal forest and berry fruit palate, with very bright, addition of cabernet fruit but has an equal aromas. Pretty palate berry fruit flavour intensity. fruit. Interesting cedaryPokolbin Estate mass of excellent oak to seamlessly structured Warming finish. $50 aromas and quite aReserve Shiraz balance it. A lovely, juicy and beautifully balanced. Capel Vale Single grippy, tannic palate. $552005 HHH1/2 wine. $70 Very more-ish. $70 Vineyard Series The AuroraSpicy/cinnamon Hentley Farm Rosemount Estate Whispering Hill Vineyard The Legacycharacters on the nose The Beauty Barossa Balmoral Mount Barker Shiraz Central Otago Syrahfollowed by a long, soft Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale Syrah 2011 HHHH 2011 HHHHand well-integrated palate, 2011 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH1/2 Simple, soft and spicy, Aromatic nose; prettywith drying tannins. $40 Described by one judge Cool and elegant. with lifted estery aromas floral notes. Very bright as a “sharp new style”. Bright and complex and seamlessly integrated and breezy palate,Barossa Valley Smells of plums with fruit bouquet, with palate of sweet oak with loads of peppery/Estate Ebenezer a dash of pepper. The mild peppery notes. and confectionery-like lavender fruit expressionBarossa Valley palate is full of luscious Somewhat simple fruit. $54.95 and subtle tannins. $42Shiraz 2008 HHH sweet fruit seamlessly palate but has a beautiful Mr Riggs ScarceHighly complex aromas, integrated with juicy line, with nice primary Earth McLaren Valewith nice earthiness. tannins. $55 notes. Very pleasant Shiraz 2011 HHHHBeautifully structured, Penny’s Hill Footprint drinking. $74.99 Savoury, chocolatyripe fruit palate. $40 McLaren Vale Shiraz Coriole Scarce aromas starting to show 2011 HHHH1/2 Earth Galaxidia some development.Balthazar Barossa An extremely complex McLaren Vale Shiraz Palate is soft, rich andShiraz 2008 HHH nose, with brooding and 2011 HHHH long. Beautiful spicy/Rich, plush wine built exotic, funky, earthy Big, black, alcoholic earthy characters. $65on a framework of elements. Generous, style. Confectionery, Wicks Estateoak tannins, with inky, soft and warm in the sweet aromas, with Eminence Adelaideblack concentration of mouth, with lovely darker, earthy notes Hills Shiraz Cabernetfruit. $49.95 integration of chocolaty, evolving. Beautifully built 2012 HHH1/2 mulberry flavours. $65 and integrated sweet/ Good structure andRidgeView savoury palate. $50 power, with richGenerations Reserve brooding fruit aromasHunter Valley Shiraz and simple but lush2007 HHH mulberry/cassis flavours.Complex and Drink early. $60developed, with cedary, Bimbadgen Signatureleathery aromas and McDonalds Roadfleshy, chewy, oak- Australia Shirazdriven palate. $45 2011 HHH1/2 A soft, well-craftedSHIRAZ wine, with fruit at& BLENDS the forward end of2012-2011 the spectrum. Nice$50-$75 mintiness and underlying darkness. $5017 TASTED Mr Riggs14 AWARDED McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2“There’s a lot of A big, brooding wine,experimentation here, with slight development.with winemakers leaving Savoury nose and sweet/wines on extended lees sour palate layered withcontact which, when tarry/charry oak. $50done well, adds to thecomplexity but if overdonecan dull the fruit,”commented one judge.“We look at these winesas a snapshot of time!”100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013