Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2014

SPECIAL EDITION 2014 WINESTATE VOL 37 ISSUE 7 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 11,000 tasted annuallyWINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS RIESLING QUEENSLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINE OF 6T9H-EPaYgEe ARS P E C I A L E D I T I O N 2 0 1 4 special feature the best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from australia & new zealandPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 Special Edition 2014 237 Vol 37 Issue 7 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) QUEENSLAND NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 WINE AWARDS US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 NEW FEATURE TASTING HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 FROM THE PRODUCER plus Sauvignon Blanc & Blends Riesling Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio Queensland From The Producer Best Wine Buys Under $20









70920LOSE YOURSELF IN THE WONDER OF NATURE For more information visit www.suninternational.com

NO.266 SPECIAL EDITION 2014Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] THE WOLF BLASS FOUNDATIONManaging Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Established 1994NZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Proudly SupportingSub-editor Michael Bates •Australian Wine Education, •Viticultural, OenologicalAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Research & Development,Graphic Design Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] •Wine & Health, •Global WineMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Industry ProfileTasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] phone +61 8 8232 5322 [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis Gastin, Ivy NgADVERTISING SALESInternational & AustraliaPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman - McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2013 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsSPECIAL EDITION 2014 WINE OF SPECIAL FEATURE THE YEAR 26 100 starts page 33FEATURES R E G U L A R S Our tasting teams have had a mammoth year sampling and judging more than26 RIESLING REVIVAL 12 Briefs 11,000 of Australia’s and New Zealand’s finest wines, and now we are at theLead by a new generation of 18 European Report pointy end of the process where wewinemakers willing to push the with Sally Easton MW name Winestate’s Wine of the Year.boundaries, Germany’s wine Our final judging panel, again leadindustry has reversed a century of 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley by Stephen John, of Stephen John Wines, Bill (William) Hardy, internationaldecline, writes Jane Skilton MW. 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King ambassador for the Accolade wine group and Peter Simic, chairmanThe revival has been quite dramatic 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel and founder of Winestate magazineand has returned the riesling- Winewords (and Wine & Spirit magazine in thedominated industry to the premium 102 US) performed admirably. The panel needed to be on top of its game as theend of the world wine market. 104 Grapevine two-day final judging involved blind tastings of all the four-and-a-half and30 DEALING DIRECT A 112 What’s it Worth? five-star wines recognised by Winestate LOCAL SUCCESS 114 Wine Investment & Collecting magazine during 2014. There was much pleasure and pain, dependingA new Victorian-based on-line 1 73 Subscription Form on your view of the process, beforewine ‘store’ is changing the way 176 Aftertaste we were able to settle on our winnerproducers and consumers do - McLaren Vale’s Mollydooker Wines’ Carnival of Love 2012 Shiraz. Sarah andbusiness, reports Joy Walterfang. W I N E TAST I N G S Sparky Marquis have produced a trulyFrom the Producer cuts out the outstanding wine. Congratulations must also go to the runner up - Geoff Hardy’smiddlemen in the retail chain, 122 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends K1 Adelaide Hills 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, and to all our major awardconnecting more than 80 wineries 132 Queensland and category winners. We extend manyrepresenting almost every 136 Riesling thanks to our valuable trophy sponsorsAustralian wine region directly with who make this event happen. Apart from announcing our major winners for 2014,buyers, delivering more profits to 142 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio we also unveil our Australian and New Zealand Winemakers of the Year alongwinemakers and better deals for 144 From The Producer with the Wine companies of the Year.consumers. 152 New Releases and Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 266 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Special Edition 2014 Cover photograph Brendan Homan.





editorialTHIS IS THE TIME of year we most enjoy when we are finally able to give youour best wines of the year selections. The year has been a turbulent one, withmany wineries struggling with distribution and low returns. Countering that,or maybe because of that, it seems that we are in an ever increasing spiral ofhigh award ratings where it seems that everyone wins a prize. We have neverseen so many “five-star” wineries, or in the 100-point system, so many winesthat get 90 points or higher. In the long run this cannot be good for anybody! For our part we continue to use the wine show system of three judges andthe international standard 20-points rating, which translates into bronze (threestars), silver (four stars) and gold (five stars). We also use half points. Althoughfor some this traditional system may seem old fashioned in the face of the moregroovy 100-point system, we continue to support it because we believe it is thetoughest and has the most credibility, akin to a Michelin rating. In our Wine of the Year judging, less than 10 per cent of the 11,000 wines wehave judged are returned for this taste off, namely four-and-a-half and five-starwines.  Chairman of judges, Stephen John, has done a great report in this issueon how he and fellow panelists, Bill (William) Hardy and myself, saw the wines.It is always a pleasure judging the best of the best and with 14 categoriesinvolved there was much to evaluate and argue over. This year we had the expected results (would you ever bet against a Kiwi winning the sauvignon blanc category),including the usual Rutherglen fortifieds, and Kiwi pinot gris, and for the past few years the Kiwi pinots. Predictably,but not always, a McLaren Vale shiraz and Margaret River chardonnay excelled in each category, along with anAdelaide Hills cabernet and a GSM from McLaren Vale in the Alternative Reds category. What was surprising wasa merlot winner from the Barossa (long the domain of Kiwi producers, apparently with their better clones), and ariesling from of all places, Boston Bay, near Port Lincoln (and driving distance from Clare). Oysters anyone? Heathcotealso had a winner, with a marsanne viognier, and semillon, almost trademarked by the Hunter, found a winner fromthe Shoalhaven Coast. For the latter it should be mentioned that the winemaker is the Hunter’s own Andrew Spinaze. To find out more, go to our Wine of the Year section where all will be revealed. Our thanks to all our amazing judges who gave their time throughout the year and to all our supporters, both tradeand consumers, who make us enjoy bringing this magazine to you. Have a great Xmas and New Year from all thestaff at Winestate and may your next wine be the best one! I would also like to take this opportunity to welcome our new Hong Kong Grapevine contributor, Ivy Ng, to theWinestate team. We all can’t wait to hear what culinary gems she has in store for us!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsA PASSIONATE LABEL ITAMBASSADOR D’ARENBERG has launched new labels for its Artisan range, stillTHE Australian wine industry featuring a cat called Booze, a pixie, a magpie and other iconichas paid tribute to Yvonne symbols familiar to fans of the wines. Along with interesting namesMay, Wine Australia’s regional like The Derelict Vineyard, The Money Spider and The Sticks anddirector UK and Europe, who Stones, wines in the range contain little-known varieties suchdied in late August. Acting as sagrantino, tinta cao and cinsault. The McLaren Vale winerychief executive Andreas uses up to 33 different grape varieties and will be planting fourClark said it was with deep new Italian and Spanish varieties this year. “We’ve always beensadness he announced that interested in experimenting with new and alternative varieties,”May had died after a short said chief winemaker Chester Osborn. “For over a century the redillness. “Yvonne was a tireless Rhone varietals of grenache, shiraz and mourvedre have thrived inand passionate ambassador McLaren Vale, so in the 1990s we were among the first to plant theirfor our Australian wine white counterparts, marsanne, roussanne and viognier.” Osborncommunity,” he said. “We also underlined d’Arenberg’s minimalist approach in the vineyards.were richer for having her in our lives but now poorer with her “We don’t use fertiliser or herbicide in our vineyards, and there isleaving us much too soon. While those who knew her well will minimal or no irrigation, and no soil cultivation,” he said. “In thebe grieving her loss, she would not want us to wallow and we winery we use traditional techniques, such as open fermentation,should all continue to be inspired with how she embraced life foot treading and basket pressing. All of these gentle methodsand its opportunities.” allow the personality and characteristics of each variety to shine.” As the wines themselves have been hand crafted, so have theNIGHT SHIFT new labels, in collaboration with award-winning Adelaide design team Voice.HUNTER VALLEY shiraz and semillon expert Andrew Thomasused a new innovation for the 2014 vintage - what he believeswas the region’s first picking by night. Using pickers equippedwith fishermen’s headlamps, he was seeking what he calls “littleone-percenters that can contribute to improving quality”. Theend result was to pick grapes cool for whole-bunch pressingin the winery and “double the tonnes, half the temperature -smiles all round”. “We had awesome cold bunches going intothe press and amazing pristine, delicate juice coming out. Iwouldn’t be surprised if there are quite a few producers jumpingon board next year,” says Thomas.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32712 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

briefsGAME ON LION ROARSADELAIDE Oval’s new Hill of Grace Restaurant, opened in August, A CLASH with giant beverage and food company Lion has forced aaims to offer a fine dining experience while showcasing the best small McLaren Vale winery to change its name. A small winemakingseasonal produce and premium wine South Australia has to offer. operation called Lion Point after a local geographical landmarkThe restaurant features a menu created by head chef Dennis Leslie is now known as Lost Buoy after legal action by the internationalalongside the world’s only complete set of Henschke Hill of Grace conglomerate.wines - a collection from 1958 to the current vintage. Based on Lion Point was required to cease using the word Lion “under thea produce-driven, seasonal food philosophy with French, Asian purity of international trademark class 33”. Lost Buoy Wines areand Australian influences and a strong focus on the use of locally not able to comment as part of the “agreement” with Lion, althoughgrown, farmed or fished produce, the menu is complemented by general manager Anna Watson says: “The Lost Buoy name stemsa range of more than 160 South Australian wines, headlined by from the coastal location of our home vineyard and the independentHenschke’s acclaimed range from Eden Valley and the Adelaide nature of our small company.” All’s well that ends well, then, but thisHills. “The fact that Stephen and Prue Henschke have chosen to might not bode well for an even smaller wine producer in Westernbestow their internationally-renowned Hill of Grace brand on this Australian - Lion Mill.restaurant speaks volumes for the quality of what is on offer here,”said Adelaide Oval chairman John Olsen. “This is an excitingchapter for our family business, to see the coming together of twounique South Australian icons, both rich in history,” said owner andwinemaker Stephen Henschke.The installation of an Enomatic wine dispenser will offer diners theunique opportunity to purchase a 50ml, 100ml or 150 ml glass of theHill of Grace Shiraz as well as additional museum and back vintageHenschke wines. The Hill of Grace Restaurant is open to the publicfor dinner five nights a week (Tuesday to Saturday) and for lunchon Fridays. Book on (08) 8205 4777 or [email protected] Here is the question. iS THe Why does our vineyard regularly produce wines of greater finesse, elegance and balance?AnSWer We believe that the sand dunes we grow on, which were 10,000 years in evolving, are the most likely answer. They give us the viticultural influences of deep drainage, elevation and low levels of nutrients. From the 2012 vintage we made 132 cases of Sands of Time Shiraz. As the name suggests it is the best expression of what our dunes can do. To check out the influence of 10,000 years of sand send us an email and we will let you know where to find our nearest wine shop. [email protected] Wines made for eating Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsSAIL AND STROLL ON SONGVISITORS to Tasmania can now combine world-class walks HE SINGS like a dream but his wines are capable of hitting thearound the coastline of Australia’s island state with sailing on a odd high note, too. Italian tenor, Andrea Bocelli, is part of a wineluxury yacht. The new Wineglass Bay Sail Walk, which started family that can trace its winemaking history back almost 300 yearsoperating in October, combines a guided trekking experience in the Italian region of Tuscany. Until now, few Australians haveexploring some of Tasmania’s most stunning East Coast locations been aware of Bocelli Family Wines but during his recent tour, thewith boat travel in between the destinations. The experience is the world famous singer sought out meetings with potential distributors.latest offering from the Tasmanian Walking Company, which also Clearly confident of reaching an agreement he also launched theowns the award-winning Bay of Fires Lodge Walk and the Cradle wines into the country with lunches in Melbourne and Sydney. “FirstMountain Huts Walk. Over four- or six-day itineraries, walkers will of all I love wine,” he said, “unfortunately, I can’t drink it often butbe able to explore Maria Island and both the Freycinet and Tasman when I do, I drink very, very well.”peninsulas, travelling by boat from one location to another aboard The family vineyard is in the village of Lajatico, 50km south west ofthe luxurious Lady Eugenie, a 23-m ketch that also serves as their Florence and produces, under his younger brother, Alberto, andaccommodation. The four-day Wineglass Bay Sail Walk itinerary his wife, Cinzia, a surprisingly large selection of wines headed bytakes in Maria Island, Schouten Island, Cooks (or Bryans) Beach an attractive, textural non-vintage prosecco from the Veneto. Theand Wineglass Bay. The six-day itinerary additionally explores the Bocellis have agreements with producers outside their region asTasman Peninsula, including a section of the new Three Capes well as producing their own estate wines. Their strengths lie in redTrack. Both itineraries will originate out of Hobart. Walkers can wines and hopefully Australia will be offered a hefty allocation ofopt to relax on some days, swapping trekking with swimming, a the 2011 Poggioncino Traditional Tuscan Sangiovese-based blendstroll along a deserted beach, or simply staying on board. Each and 2011 Terre di Sandro Sangiovese.night guests will be served drinks and canapes as the sun sets,followed by a locally-sourced dinner served with a selection of A GOOD NIGHTTasmanian wines from Apogee, Holm Oak, Moores Hill and SpringVale, among others. The trip will operate with a maximum of 10 A $35 BUBBLY from the Pyrenees has been declared the Worldguests in five cabins, all with air conditioning, private bathrooms Champion Australian sparkling at the inaugural Champagne andand showers. For more information phone (03) 6392 2211 or visit Sparkling Wine World Championships in England. Blue Pyrenees Estate 2010 Midnight Cuvee beat some of the country’s topwww.wineglassbaysailwalk.com.au. sparklings, including House of Arras 2004 vintage, Clover Hill 2001 blanc de blancs and Coldstream Hills 2010 pinot noir chardonnay to come out on top. A 100 per cent chardonnay blanc de blancs style, Midnight Cuvee’s success comes after 10 years of refinement in the vineyard and the winery by winemaker Andrew Koerner. However, one thing has not changed, grapes for the sparkling continue to be picked at midnight. “The chardonnay is always sourced from the Blue Pyrenees Estate vineyard,” says Koerner, “with the finest fruit selected on-vine and then harvested at midnight for optimal fruit conditions. The wine spends a minimum of three years on lees, resting in an onsite cave designed by our founders.” BACK IN BUSINESS ONE OF Australia’s greatest riesling makers has been coaxed out of retirement and back into the winery. John Vickery, who fashioned the famous Leo Buring reserve bin rieslings of the 1960s and ’70s, was persuaded to return to winemaking by Phil Lehmann, the son of one of his Barossa Valley colleagues, the late Peter Lehmann. Their joint venture is called - but, what else? - Vickery 2014 riesling. The $24 wine uses fruit sourced from two vineyards in the Watervale sub-region of the Clare Valley, an area that Vickery knows very well and also employs his old winemaking practices. “Grapes were picked at optimum ripeness, pressed in Watervale to minimise skin contact, and low extraction rates minimised phenolic pick-up in the juice,” reads the winemaker notes. “The juice was moved to our Barossa facility for cool and careful fermentation in stainless steel tanks, maintaining separate batch identities.” Blending was finished by September and the wine, at 11.5 per cent alcohol, is expected to age well up to 20 years. Sounds just like the old days.14 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

briefs TAXING TIME IS THE Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) holding back Australian winemakers from seeking out new markets abroad? Yes and no, according to winemakers at this year’s Wine Industry Outlook Conference. The WET tax collects around $750 million annually from wine producers and returns $300 million back as a rebate. “It is an addiction that we must wean ourselves off of,” said Riverland maker, Bill Moularadellis, managing director of Kingston Estate Wines. “We do need to get on the methadone program . . . so we can actually start focusing on where we have to sell this wine.” He suggested every Australian maker should be selling 60 per cent of its production in overseas markets. Defenders of WET said it was needed, especially so in a continued period of oversupply of wine grapes and tight prices. The last word was left to Senator Anne Rushton, who suggested that while it was obvious that keeping the tax was causing great debate, the industry would not be wise to send mixed messages to the federal government. “The government is not in the mood to change taxation on wine,” she said. “Be careful what you ask for.”FOOD AND WINE IN FOCUSTICKETS for the 2015 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival arenow on sale. A pop-up artisan bakery rising daily in the heartof the city, a long lunch for 1500 in Melbourne’s fresh producemarket and a wine tasting with 40 of the world’s best biodynamicwinemakers are just some of the highlights of the event, whichruns from February 27 to March 15. Queen Victoria Market, theheart and soul of Melbourne’s fresh produce heritage, will behome to the World’s Longest Lunch on February 27 with onelong table weaving through and around the historic sheds. TheMelbourne MasterClass on March 7-8 will feature chefs fromacross the globe, including Dan Hunter from Brae, CanadianMatt Abergel and American Jason Bissonnette.For full details see: www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au.MORE, PLEASE CHANGING OF THE GUARDSCHONBERGER, the grape, sounds as pretty as it tastes. THERE has been a changing of the guard at McLaren ValeRose petals, florals reminiscent of spring flowers, the white biodynamic winery Paxton, where Richard Freebairn has beengrape has a growing, dedicated following. “People are appointed chief winemaker following the departure of Michaelbecoming a lot more adventurous in the wines they are willing Paxton. Freebairn joins Paxton from Serafino Wines, where heto try,” says Fred Peacock, winemaker at Bream Creek Wines, worked under winemaker Charles Whish. “This is a fantasticwho gave the grape - a hybrid of pinot noir, chasselas and opportunity for me and I’m extremely happy to join a winerymuscat Hamburg - its big chance back in the early 1980s. that is producing some of McLaren Vale’s finest biodynamicA former state viticulturist with the Tasmanian Department of wines,” he said. “With great vineyard sites and exceptionalPrimary Industry, Peacock happened to meet noted German fruit quality, I’m excited to work with these wines.” Founderwine scientist, Helmut Becker, in the 1970s and it was he and owner David Paxton said: “We are delighted to havewho suggested that the grape might be well suited to the Richard join our team. He brings a wealth of knowledge andcold climate at Bream Creek outside Hobart. The winemaker experience, and we look forward to him continuing the workcoaxes three styles out of the one grape - a dry white table we’ve been doing.” Freebairn has worked in Margaret River, thewine, a sweet late picked wine and a lightly fizzy, gently sweet Barossa and the Swan Valley as well as in Sonoma in the USmoscato that is taking off with a growing legion of fans. So and in Italy before joining Jim Barry and Serafino. David’s sonmany, in fact, that he is in need of more grapes. But he may be Michael Paxton has “moved on to pursue other opportunitiesout of luck. The only other major growers of the schonberger outside the wine industry”.grape are found in Germany and England. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsBIRTHDAY BASH SUPPORTING THE LOCALSWOLF BLASS, arguably the most LAUNCESTON stalwart Stillwater and Mures Upper Deck infamous winemaker in the country, Hobart emerged as the two winners in the inaugural Tasmanianrecently passed a significant Wine List of the Year awards.milestone. The colourful German Organised jointly by Wine Tasmania and the Tasmanianmigrant, who helped establish Hospitality Association (THA) aimed at recognising licensedthe modern face of Australian Tasmanian businesses supporting and promoting the localwinemaking, celebrated his 80th wine sector as part of the THA’s annual Awards for Excellence.birthday in typically bling style The Tasmanian Wine List of the Year Award aims to encourageat a Sydney party attended by a licensed premises to feature outstanding local wines as part ofhorde of A-listers, most of whom, their overall offering and recognises those businesses offeringit seemed, wanted their photos significant support to local wine producers. Stillwater, with ataken with him in his bow tie. superb list curated by James Welsh, was named as the winnerWine industry commentator Tony by a panel of judges and was recognised at the THA’s AwardsKeys commented: “There is not a for Excellence gala evening. Eight venues were short-listed, withlot that can be said (about Wolf) the public encouraged to vote for their favourite. Mures Uppermainly because Wolf has already Deck was given the People’s Choice Award. “The responsesaid it, twice as loud and twice to this new initiative has been very positive and it’s great toas long”. see so many businesses recognising the outstanding winesOver five decades, Blass has been a style leader and opinion produced in Tasmania and promoting them as part of theirmoulder, and was one of the pioneers as Australia moved from business offering,” said Wine Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies.fortified wines to table wines, winning countless awards and an “The awards consider not just the number of Tasmanian winesOrder of Australia along the way. Wolf Blass Wines has released on a wine list, but also the depth and diversity of the wine lista limited-edition The Master Langhorne Creek Pasquin Vineyard as well as staff training and wine knowledge.Cabernet Shiraz, sold in a leather gift box for $350 or with a “Having a wide range of Tasmanian wines available atprint from artist David Bromley for $1000. The 2014 Wolf Blass restaurants, cafes, wine bars, clubs and hotels is an importantLuxury Collection wines were also released to coincide with his part of the overall tourism experience.”birthday. After the tasting, journalists asked Wolf how the bow The other finalists were Black Cow, Grape Bar & Bottleshop, Metie had become his trademark. The answer was, sadly, purely Wah Hobart, Pier One, Saffire and The Terrace. For details seefor practical reasons. www.winetasmania.com.au/2014TasWineList.When he started blending red wines in Australia he found histie was constantly getting dirty, flopping into tanks or getting OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTIONSin the way. A bow tie was a way to remain smartly dressed andnot have to change ties on a daily basis. LEEUWIN ESTATE founder Denis Horgan was honoured by the Augusta Margaret River Tourism Association, in partnershipNAME CHANGE with the Margaret River Chamber of Commerce and Industry, for “Outstanding Contribution by an Individual” at the MargaretNOCTON PARK is no more. Say hello to Nocton Vineyards. River Region 2014 Business Awards. This new award celebratesThe Coal River Valley wine producer is under new ownership an individual who has made a significant and long-standingand has rebranded following its sale last year to a group of contribution to tourism and local industry in the Margaret RiverAustralian and Hong Kong-based business people. Nocton has region. Both Denis and his wife, Tricia’s, commitment of adhering toaround 34ha under vines, making it a fairly serious player inthe Tasmanian industry, but much of the fruit was sold in recentyears. With no budget for marketing that meant the label flewunder the radar and eventually went into administration. RichardMeyman, part-owner and previously responsible for viticulture,has now taken over as sales and development manager withstriking new labelling, a new logo and some cracking winesmade at Winemaking Tasmania about to hit the market. Themature vineyard is known for producing quality fruit from pinotnoir, chardonnay, merlot and sauvignon blanc. There is thecapacity to make up to 17,000 cases each year (and a further20ha worthy of planting) and Meyman says the new entity will bevisible at local food and wine festivals, Festivale and the Tasteof Tasmania. “We want to be very much a part of the Australianand Tasmanian wine industry,” he says.16 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

briefsexcellence has earned Leeuwin Estate an outstanding internationalreputation, recognised through the receipt of numerous awards forits wines, restaurant, architecture, environment, arts endeavoursand as a leader in wine tourism, AMRTA chief executive officer PipClose said. “Denis and the Horgan family’s ongoing contribution,passion and support for wine and food tourism in the MargaretRiver region is exceptional, including the successful initiation andmanagement of 30 wonderful years of Leeuwin concerts, plustheir support of arts and culture in the region,” she said. “TheAMRTA is proud to name Denis as the winner of this inauguralaward and would like to sincerely thank and congratulate him forhis outstanding efforts and contribution to the tourism industry inthe region over the years.” Both Denis and Tricia Horgan are dualrecipients of Western Australia’s highest wine industry and tourismawards, and have both been admitted to the Order of Australia fortheir contribution to the wine and tourism industries.BACK IN FAVOUR ALTERNATVE OPTIONVERMOUTH - the favourite Italian-made mixer of the 1960s - is FOR wine lovers using the city as a base for exploration orback. And it’s being made in Australia. A small band of artisanal winemakers flying in and out to tout their wares, there is anmakers are now getting into vermouth-style fortifieds. And some, alternative accommodation option in downtown Adelaide - alike Bendigo winemaker Gilles Lapalus, of Sutton Grange outside very smart Ibis Hotel. The new-build Ibis, opened in August,Harcourt, are using indigenous botanicals. cost $70 million and is the largest Ibis in the country. RoomHe forages for many of his ingredients around the nearby town prices start from under $120 per night online. The hotel is onof Castlemaine, seeking out fresh strawberry gum leaves, sea the funky side of the ledger with artwork from street graffiti artistparsley, river mint and wattle seeds (the edible kind, that is). Ghostpatrol and modern technology throughout. “The hotelWormwood, the basis of vermouth (as well as absinthe) is also represents an exciting phase of economy hotels in Australiasourced locally, including from his backyard. In all, he employs making the experience both fun and unexpected,” says GM34 different botanicals. Nathan Frost. To the side of the lobby is a chill-out zone where“We have been the first to use Australian botanicals,” he says. guests can catch up on emails using free wi-fi (although wi-fi“It makes so much sense.” His interest in vermouth started back is not free in the 311 guest rooms, which do have excellentin 2011 when the owner of The Gin Palace in Melbourne, Vernon bathrooms and plenty of power points).Chalker, approached him to make a gin. “I’m not a distiller,” The Samsung Smarthub 690 Series TV in every room allowshe says “but I was willing to do something wine-based.” His access to restaurant menus and in-room entertainment, whileMaidenii vermouths come in dry, classic and sweet. rooms also have a compact desk area with a Phillips LED desk lamp with USB ports and adjustable office chair. An opening special bed and breakfast package for two starts at $122 per night. Ibis Adelaide, 122 Grenfell St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8159 5588. www.accorhotels.com.au.

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWFOCUS ON FIZZ AS THE SPARKLING MARKET BUBBLES ALONGThere seems to be a bit of a flux in the helps that its style is so different from that outside of the DOC and DOCG delimitedworld of sparkling wines. We’re all loving of champagne, meaning it is not in direct territories and across the world wouldthem, but the aftermath of the global competition. It’s also typically significantly have to use “glera”. And glera shouldfinancial crisis has dented the shine of cheaper. The focus of prosecco is be used whether still or sparkling wine ischampagne as sales of this luxury wine on primary fruit. The bready, brioche, being made. Protecting the term for thedropped in 2013 to nearly 305 million yeasty characters of champagne are the region (like champagne) in theory at leastbottles, down just over 1 per cent on the absolute antithesis of prosecco. There’s prevents other countries/regions fromprevious year. also typically a bit more ready sweetness calling their sparkling wines prosecco. in some styles of prosecco. By contrast, the 2013 global sales of all Inevitably it wasn’t that simple. Theresparkling prosecco which hails from the In 2009, several things happened. The was a bit of a battle in Australia over theVeneto and Friuli-Venezia-Guilia regions original heartland of sparkling prosecco desired name change by the Europeanof north-east Italy, overtook those of production, Prosecco di Conegliano- Union of the grape variety from proseccochampagne, having grown to 307 million Valdobbiadene (I’m not even going to to glera. Europe wanted the new Proseccobottles, according to figures from the Italian attempt a phonetic spelling of that!) was GI (DOC and DOCG) recognised inSparkling Wine Observatory (OVSE). promoted from DOC to DOCG. DOCG is Australia. But Aussies decided that the pinnacle of the appellation hierarchy prosecco had historical and current Champagne has long been a protected in Italy and is meant to denote superior usage as a grape variety, so couldn’tterm, used to define sparkling wines quality, which, in the European model, be reserved for use as a GI. Eventuallymade by the traditional method and made is typically linked to a geographically Europe withdrew its appeal against this.in the Champagne region of France. TheIt might have been argued that the GFC came along at a tolerable timefor champagne.Champagne region is very protective of identifiable patch of land. In a similar So you guys still call prosecco prosecco.the term, presumably, in part, because vein, Chianti Classico can only come from Another thing the heartland of proseccoso many regions around the world try to a smallish patch of land in Tuscany. Etc.emulate the style and historically also Like Australia’s geographical indications, production - Conegliano Valdobbiadeneemulated the name. Of course, pretty but with added different levels of quality- - is working on is its application for themuch everywhere else in the world is implied criteria (such as permitted yield hills of the DOCG region to be listed as asupposed to call such bubbly wines levels), depending on level of GI. UNESCO world heritage site, to recognise“traditional method sparkling wines”, or “the landscape, its traditions and the wisesome other collective term reserved for At the same time as this appellation management of its ecosystem as a livingthis purpose. Cava, in Spain, for example, elevation, an enlarged Prosecco heritage of the community”, according todescribes such products. Method Cap DOC zone was created. This “lower” a spokesperson for the DOCG. Its aim isClassique, in South Africa, does likewise. appellation is on flatter land, has more to achieve recognition in the next couple generous production permits, and the of years. Some five years ago, in 2009, tighter general expectations of quality levels areprotection of the term prosecco was typically more modest. Back in Champagne, the small declineintroduced, reserving the use of the in global shipments notwithstanding,term to describe wines made in certain Finally, this was also the time when Australia has been one of a few countriesdelimited regions in pre-Alpine north the grape variety name changed from to see very healthy growth in imports ineast Italy. The light, fun, gently frothy and prosecco (which henceforth became 2013, up more than 11 per cent on 2012.delicately fruity style of bubbly has since reserved as a protected term for the This was additionally a similar increasebeen experiencing something of a revival region) to glera. The idea was that only over 2011. Australia is now shipping moreand expansion of fortunes. It probably wines from these defined bits of north east than 6 million bottles of champagne, more Italy can use “prosecco”. Everyone else than double the volumes of five years ago.18 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

Australia has jumped into the slot of the Yorke Peninsula’ssixth largest export market. award winning vineyard But that overall fall in global shipments is aworrying feature for the region. Champagneis classically cited as being a barometerof the economic climate. Sales in 2007,before the GFC struck, had reached328 million bottles. By 2009 shipmentsdropped to 303 million bottles; and they’vebeen rumbling along a little above andaround that level since, despite the globaleconomy at least looking as though it’sbeginning to pick up. It might have been argued that theGFC came along at a tolerable time forchampagne. The region was bursting atthe seams, apparently unable to copewith increasing global demand. It wasdecided to expand its borders to add upto another 5000ha, or potentially more than10 per cent more. Such a controversialidea caused quite a stir, despite the regionhistorically (in the 1800s) being larger,and despite modern analytical techniquesbeing used to identify suitable plotsconsistent with the appellation. The GFCalmost instantly took off the pressure asdemand fell, bringing the supply-demandequation into slightly better balance. Theexpansion of the appellation boundariesis still on the cards. But the region has sofar failed to return to pre-GFC shipments,which is causing champagne producerssome concern. Something else still on the cards isthe Champagne region’s application toUNESCO’s world heritage list, as a culturallandscape, i.e. a relationship made ofman within a natural environment. Thiswould encompass not just the vineyards,but the champagne houses and cellarsas well. It seems competition in the wineworld is hotting up for UNESCO listings. Issuch a thing the latest marketing strategyfor wine regions? Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYCOMING TO TERMS WITH FACT AND FICTIONThere are some myths and favourite is not surprising they blend both Atlantic In France sangiovese goes under theone-liners that have stayed with and Mediterranean grape varieties. name nielluccio or niellucciu if grownme for countless years and, to my The same goes when you enter the in Corsica.embarrassment because they were Languedoc region of Cabardes wherefrankly not true, or at best a case of me blends consist of merlot, cabernet How about sauvignon blanc growingusing my “poetic license”, I have shared sauvignon, cabernet franc, syrah and in Burgundy? Never! Well, yes, it canwith wine students. grenache to name a few. However, be found in one village south west of when you look at what is permitted and Chablis called St Bris le Vineux and it I’ve finally vanquished some of them what is bottled, then Australia could still has its own AOC.and it all stems from a recent, in-depthstudy of the wines of France via the I’d always regarded It’s commonly accepted that in AustraliaFrench Wine Society. we have relaxed wine laws and can plant phylloxera as a curse, any grape variety we wish, but in France First, my misapprehension that they are tied to draconian rules andChampagne was the birthplace of but in a way it was a regulations. True, but you see exceptionssparkling wine. This honour goes to the to the rules everywhere you look andmonks at St Hilaire who crafted a sparkling blessing to many regions. there is an extremely long list of permittedBlanquette de Limoux some 150 years grape varieties in many regions. Pinot gris,before Dom Perignon in 1531. Limoux rightly claim the benchmark country for for instance, is grown widely, includingis located in what is termed the Atlantic this blend. Alsace, Loire and Burgundy. The whitecorridor area of the Languedoc. An area grape can also be added to red beaujolaisthat, although it is in deepest southern Another presumption is that the French up to a maximum of 15 per cent. In theFrance, gets the benefit of cooler Atlantic wouldn’t use staunchly Italian and 12th century pinot gris was praised in theinfluences to craft its sparkling wines Spanish grapes. I was aware that Italian Cote de Beaune red only village of Volnaymade from predominately mauzac with vermentino was planted in Provence as and was the most sought after wine. Thethe occasional splash of chardonnay and well as Languedoc. It goes under the same liberal plantings apply to cheninchenin blanc. It can still be made in the name of rolle. But I was fairly ignorant blanc which is influential in South Westold Ancestrale style that undergoes a about tempranillo and sangiovese being France. Chenin is an underwhelmingpartial fermentation before being bottled planted in France. The island of Corsica grape variety in Australia. But grown in theand allowed to continue to ferment to shares so many ties with Italy, so I half Loire it produced France’s most long-livedcreate the bubbles. expected sangiovese to be planted and white wine in Savennieres that displays found on the island. Corsica initially high levels of acidity and minerality. It Such is the diversity of France that belonged to the Italian city of Genoa also makes superb dessert wines. Gamaythere are strange and wonderful blends until it was ceded to France in 1768. and chardonnay are also found plantedaround every corner. Take another one What I find amusing is the knowledge in Loire and not just Bourgogne andof my myths that Australia owns the that if Napoleon Bonaparte had been Beaujolais.concept of blending shiraz and cabernet born a few years earlier he might havesauvignon. Well, wrong. If you look at been officially Italian and not French, I’d always regarded phylloxera as athe permitted varieties grown in South which could have changed the annals curse, but in a way it was a blessingWestern France in appellations such of history. Sangiovese is permitted to many regions. It gave producers anas Cotes du Marmandais or Cotes de in the IGP (Indication Geographique opportunity to change the region’s make-Millau, then you will see syrah is blended Protegee) grapes of Languedoc, up and made them focus on better grapewith fer, gamay and cabernet sauvignon. alongside tempranillo. IGPs replaced varieties. Look at the Upper Loire forThis region, around the Garonne and the old Vine de Pays system in 2009. instance. Prior to phylloxera the regionTarn rivers, is a meeting point between was planted to chasselas, a grape foundBordeaux varieties and the Rhone, so it these days in Switzerland and Savoie,20 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

but the vignerons found it hard to graftover so they switched to sauvignonblanc which gave birth to sancerre. Priorto phylloxera, mourvedre was widelyplanted in the southern Rhone Valleybut it was hard to graft on to Americanrootstock so it was replaced by grenacheand syrah. Plantings of mourvedredropped from 33 per cent to 3 per cent. In many regions the vine was planted“en foule” or in a crowd. After phylloxerathis haphazard method was replacedwith vines planted in rows and plantedto single variety rather than mixedvarieties. This enabled mechanisation ofthe vineyard, stronger vines and singlefermentations with subsequent blendingopportunities. A case of “adversity is themother of invention”. Another myth is that riesling has beenat home in Alsace for centuries. Well itmay have a long history there but theregion was extensively planted to lowquality hybrid vines after phylloxerawent through the region. Fortunatelythese vines were ripped out and three-quarters of the vines were destroyed inWorld War II by an unlikely army. In 1942the Third Reich sent Hitler Youth cadetsinto Alsace to destroy the vineyards andpresumably stop them competing withGerman vignerons. So after the war thevines were sensibly replanted with thevarietal mix we have currently. The last myth was that Italy farexceeded France in its complexity andnumber of grape varieties indigenousto the country. But in fact France hasover 400 wine and spirit AOCs andthere are 130 common grape varietiesthat the French Wine Society covers inits course, so it clearly challenges Italyin complexity. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGSKI AMERICA’S WEST AND LIVE THE APRES-SKI HIGH LIFEAUSTRALIANS have long flocked to per half hectare. Vail’s High Noon Lift Umbrella Bar allows you to ski right in onthe American West for apres-Christmas has been re-christened Chair 5 and is Champagne Powder days.ski breaks with good reason. American now a four person detachable chair liftski resorts are purpose-built, packed - a.k.a high-speed quad. Sweet Basil Telluride Eco Adventures, a majorwith activities and real fun. Just as is the major dining destination in Vail. initiative targeted at families, delivers aimportantly, they are crammed with first- The long, curving bar is as schmick as platoon of activities for all ages, includingclass bars and restaurants. the main dishes, including Wild Alaskan snowmobiling, beginner ice climbing Salmon and Duck Breast a la Plancha. excursions, fly fishing and heli-skiing. Aspen is the most famous ski area in A ride on the Eagle Bahn gondola The guided back country ski program atColorado and one of the world’s 10 best and a snowcat shuttle is part of the magic Telluride has also been a major hit. Youski resorts. The area caters to all comers of dining at Game Creek, which prides have to be expert, though, to tackle thefrom beginner slopes to “back side of itself on the chef’s tasting menu and breathtaking terrain near Bear Creek andthe mountain” terrain for near Olympic- prime meats. The best place for breakfast Alta Lakes. Alpino Vino claims to be thestandard performers. Although famed for in Vail is the Westside Cafe & Market highest elevation, fine dining restaurantattracting celebrities, the mega-rich and for the legendary Bloody Mary and in the US. A cosy hutte, there are only 26the merely wealthy, Aspen’s well-known eggs Benedict. seats, a prixe fixe five-course dinner andsteeps and four mountains (famously bookings are mandatory. If sensationalTV legend Lucille Ball took her kids there almost every year and if you’re taking thechildren overseas for a ski holiday for the first time, Sun Valley is still a top choicefor a rollcall of activities that will leave them pleasantly exhausted at day’s end.not linked) are also accessible to most About 35km from Vail, Copper Mountain house-made sausages appeal, 221budgets. Lowdown Park in Snowmass, offers Woodward Camp, a 1900 square South Oak is the place. For sunsetthe largest local peak, is only one of metre indoor facility dedicated to perfecting drinks, the happy hour at Allred’s is aa handful of ski resorts in the world to snowboarding, ski jump and half-pipe skills non-negotiable.offer three half pipes that cater to all without risking the mishaps of real life. Forskill levels. the skilled there are “double black diamond” Crossing into Idaho, Sun Valley is billed slopes on Copper and Union peaks, as America’s first and finest ski resort. An For a big hunk of meat from a nearby including four expert bowls. Rib-sticking fare instant success from the day it openedherd, book a table at Steakhouse No done well is the promise at Incline Bar & Grill, in the mid-1930s, Sun Valley was the316. For sheer drama, you can’t beat where rotisserie and barbeque dishes are Aspen of its day and attracted regularsCloud Nine, located 3200m up Aspen the forte. For more upscale dining, it’s hard such as Clark Gable, Gary Cooper andHighlands, for elk ragout, pheasant to go past CB Grille for “modern Colorado Errol Flynn. TV legend Lucille Ball tooksausages and Colorado lamb chops. cuisine”. You can hear Zizzo’s Ski Bar long her kids there almost every year and ifA rowdy apres-ski scene and a flood of before you see it, boasting the loudest you’re taking the children overseas for aGuinness soaked up by pub fare such sound system on Copper Mountain. ski holiday for the first time, Sun Valley isas bangers and mash is the magnet at still a top choice for a rollcall of activitiesFinbarr’s Irish Pub - smack in the middle The longest run at Steamboat is the that will leave them pleasantly exhaustedof town. breezily named Why Not at 4.8km, but at day’s end. Wild West meets fancy nearly 50 per cent of the 165 named trails cooking is the lure at the Cornerstone Bar There’s room for everyone in the are rated beginner and intermediate. The & Grill. For a great US-only wine list, CK’sthree major mountain areas at Vail - the Mavericks Superpipe is rated as one of Real Food also offers top-notch paddock-Front-Side, the Back Bowls and Blue the premier pipes in North America. For to-plate food. If you’ve always wonderedSky Basin. A big 12km wide, even on apres-ski, the Burgess Creek Terrace and how high altitudes affect fermentation,busy days there are only four skiers22 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

DWPAR14437drop by at Frenchman’s Gulch Winery www.parous.com.auclose by. Over 600,000 visitors a year convergeon Squaw Valley, one of the largest skiareas in the US. With 33 chairlifts and theonly funitel (aerial lift) in the US, the resortis also the epi-centre of the current revivalof snowshoeing. Many of the restaurantsand bars have spectacular views of LakeTahoe. And it’s a real thrill to ride thecable car up the mountain to the HighCamp, a textbook winter wonderlandcomprised of the Olympic Skating Rink,tennis court, resorts and a swimming pooland spa that - hyperbole aside - reallydoes boast one of the most majesticviews in the world - from the lake to thehigh Sierras. Graham’s has been the go-to restaurant in Squaw Valley for over 20years and you have to think well ahead(as in maybe before you go) at the heightof the ski season. A big wallet winelistand Mediterranean cuisine pull in thepunters. The Uncorked Wine Bar is themost famous apres-ski venue, as muchfor its little known boutique wine and beerselections as its friendly service. The prestigious SKI magazine hasranked Park City Mountain Resort as oneof America’s top 10 ski areas for severalyears in a row. No wonder. Utah’s skiingboast - the Greatest Snow On Earth - isa registered trademark. It’s also hometo the High West Distillery and Saloon,opened in the 1870s as the state’s firstdistillery and the only ski-in-ski-outdistillery and gastro-saloon in the world.Biochemist David Perkins took over 10years ago and produces the best inRocky Mountain Whiskey. Swiss-trainedJames Dumas helms the kitchen. Awhisky-lover’s heaven, orders flood infrom all over the US for storied bottlingssuch as High West Whiskey Campfire andSon of Bourye, a smooth blend of straightBourbon and rye whiskies. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 23

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA (PART 2) VISITING French gourmet and writer wines were ‘very good’.” This article carried between mushrooms and peppers”. SimonAndre Simon spent most of the next two the heading, on page three, in large bold preferred the mutton to the kangaroo. Thedays of his visit to South Australia in and capital letters: PRAISE FOR S.A. WINES wines, red and white, from Tintara andaround McLaren Vale. On January 26, FROM GOURMET. Such sentiments sound nearby Seaview, flowed freely, ensuring,1964, he travelled to Reynella, one of to us today like a plea for recognition, an noted Simon, that there was no risk ofthe state’s oldest wineries, which he was example of the oenological cringe. anybody being dehydrated. Perhaps he didshown in some detail, “before coming to not know of wine’s dehydrating qualities.the Nineteenth Hole, the bar of the House”. The following day was the Australia Day Despite the temperature being over theHere Simon was served some Reynella holiday, one which the organisers of Simon’s century Simon found it “not humid and quitewines. In his account of his visit, Simon visit to South Australia had worried over as bearable”. On the way back to Adelaideneither names any of the wines nor gives everyone would be away and not available Simon visited Edwards and Chaffey’shis opinion of them. Nor does he identify to host the Frenchman. But Jeffrey Penfold Seaview winery, and tasted Ben Chaffey’seither the food or the wines served during Hyland, Penfolds manager and one of the olives from his own olive groves and morelunch in Reynella’s famous underground organisers of his visit, was rightly certain of his wines.cellar. But Adelaide’s newspaper, The that the industry would rally to the cause.Advertiser, briefly reported that Simon Ken Hardy, managing director of Thomas One of the wine growers present at thetasted 1939, 1951 and 1959 burgundies,and a 1957 cabernet sauvignon, “all made The wines, red and white, from Tintara and nearbyfrom local grapes”. The meal was shared Seaview, flowed freely, ensuring, noted Simon, thatwith Adelaide’s Lord Mayor, James Irwin, there was no risk of anybody being dehydrated.and Walter Reynell & Sons Ltd’s chairman,Ian Thomas, who was the grandson of the Hardy & Co., collected Simon and his barbecue, held just over 50 years ago,original Walter Reynell’s sister. This piece of friend, Melbournian Victor Gibson, who was was a young James Irvine, then working athistorical information was surely of interest in charge of the whole Australian visit, and Hardy’s McLaren Vale winery. Simon madeto Simon the author, whose main purpose drove them to Tintara, south of Reynella, a big impression on Irvine. He recentlyin coming to Australia was to gather the Hardy headquarters. A quick winery recalled to me both the man and theinformation for a book he was writing on the visit was followed by a drive through “many occasion: “This visit/lunch created a goodcountry’s vineyards and wineries. acres of vineyards down to Lower Tintara deal of work, posturing and general fluster and up to the crest of a hill”. Here they met around the Great Man - as ever was thus! Right from the beginning of his Australian David Hardy, Ken Hardy’s cousin, and his Amongst all this was a white-haired (slightlyvisit Simon had made it clear that he was family, and had a barbecue lunch in the curly) old gentleman, white summer hat,anxious to taste Australian wines where garden, which greatly impressed Simon. braces (not on his teeth) and a stick. Thisthey were made. He explained: “I had What more appropriate way could there be stick served a marvelous use. It made himalready tasted many SA wines at functions to spend the Australia Day holiday? Present an alternative to ‘The Thinker’ and thisin Sydney and Melbourne, but I like to taste were some of the neighbours, “friendly obviously deterred some from interactingeach where it was made. Wines taste best rival wine-growers and their wives: quite a with Andre if only in deference. Polite,in their local habitat”. He admitted to being party”, noted Simon approvingly. He would gentle, interested and certainly reactive toimpressed by SA wines, but “would reserve especially have appreciated the presence questions, interesting with short answers,final judgment until he had sampled them in of the wives. “We had grilled smoked and revered by all. Amazing how thethe places where they were produced”. The garfish, which was excellent, and delicious people of the times reacted to his presence.Advertiser, anxious for the state’s wines to yabees (sic) (ecrevisses) which were on But then Andre had started this Wine andbe praised by the highly esteemed expert, ice, not barbecued, and kebabs with the Food Society in 1933 and had pursued itreported that Simon, “relaxing some of the choice of mutton or kangaroo for meat ever after”.cautiousness he has previously shownin expressing an opinion on the qualityof Australian wines, said…that many SA24 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014



RRIEEVSLIVINAGL

After a century of decline, Germany has restored its reputation for producing premium wines.JANE SKILTON MW an unparalleled reputation but by the Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Baden each early part of the 20th century, it was in have their own distinctive styles whileGERMANY has long enjoyed a reputation trouble. Involvement in two world wars, still remaining true to the classical stylefor its history of classical grape growing the loss of vineyards to urban expansion of German wine - light bodied, elegantand winemaking. and vineyard diseases such as downy and pure with mouth-watering acidity and powdery mildew saw the wine and often some residual sweetness. As long ago as 371AD, the Roman industry in rapid decline.scholar Ausonius wrote Mosella, a Today there are over 2500 Einzellagen,celebration of the beauties of the river Production laws, introduced to regulate ranging both in size (from under 1haMosel. His words: “And crags, and the wine industry and its vineyards, were to more than 200ha) and potentialsunny peaks, and winding valleys, rise substantially updated and refined through quality. German lawmakers chose not totall with vines as in a natural theatre” the 1971 German Wine Law which sought impose a classification system such asdescribe perfectly the landscape of to classify and codify the wine regions. Burgundy’s grand and premier crus onGermany’s most celebrated vineyards. Today, there are 13 specified wine- the Einzellagen but instead focused onRoman winemakers knew the highest growing regions known as Aubaugebiete, categorising the must weight of grapesquality wines came from the best subdivided into smaller appellations, at harvest - the riper the grapes, thevineyards which were always planted on Bereich (district), Grosslage (collective greater the quality level. This means anythe steepest slopes. These vertiginous vineyard site) and finally Einzellage vineyard has the potential to make wineslopes maximised the vines exposure to (individual vineyard site). at every quality level, depending on thethe sun, giving the greatest chance of vintage. However even the introductionripening. Anyone who has been tempted Two Aubaugebiete - the Mosel and the of the German Wine Law, meant to re-to take a stroll though the Mosel’s Rheingau - enjoy arguably the highest establish the industry’s image, couldn’tsteepest vineyards quickly realises they profile. The Mosel, centered around the prevent another series of setbacks inneed the stamina of a mountain goat. Moselle, Saar and Ruwer rivers is home the 1980s. to some of the very steepest vineyards, Because Germany lies at the northern whose slate soils give wines of purity Liebfraumilch, an inexpensive, mediummost limit of viable viticulture, it is best and delicacy. Here riesling is king and sweet wine swamped supermarketsuited to the production of white wines. although rarely achieving alcohol levels shelves, accounting for over 55 per centThough the earliest vineyards had been above 8 or 9 per cent, these light bodied, of all German wine exported. Inoffensiveplanted with elbling and silvaner, by the ethereal wines possess immense charm. but too often characterless, it tookMiddle Ages riesling had become the Wines from the best vintages and the focus away from quality wine. Themost sought after variety for its ability producers can age magnificently for emergence of varietally labelled winesto express a site’s terroir. Capable of many decades. from the New World, with their snappywithstanding fierce winters, its ability labelling, easy to drink characters andto ripen relatively early means that if The Rheingau lies on the northern competitive price, saw consumersthe weather is kind, grapes can be bank of the Rhine and is sheltered by reach for Australian chardonnay and NZharvested late (often not until late the Taurus Mountains. Vineyard soils are sauvignon blanc. And lastly consumersOctober, early November) allowing slate, loess and loam, and again riesling increasingly sought wines that wouldthem to develop maximum flavour is the most important variety, giving go well with food, and Germany’s lowand concentration. The German wine wines that are elegant and ripe, with anindustry should have continued to enjoy understated spice element. Opposite: Copyright www.germanwines.de. Other regions of note such as Nahe, Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 27

Although it has a long and illustrious winemaking heritage, this has certainly not prevented its new generation of winemakers from pushing the boundaries.28 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

alcohol, off dry delicate wines were not high. Bottles that carry the VDP logo are Wines labelled “Classic” are made fromalways the best option. some of the finest on the market. The a traditional variety such as silvaner association has also championed the while “Selection” is reserved for premium However in the last decade, Germany Grosses Gewachs, a category of wines varieties made from a specific vineyardhas undergone a renaissance. Although hallmarked through their fruit intensity, site and available in limited quantities.it has a long and illustrious winemaking attained through low yields. These winesheritage, this has certainly not prevented are usually made either trocken (dry) or While it would be wrong to believeits new generation of winemakers from halbtrocken (off dry), styles that have Germany is only producing high qualitypushing the boundaries. found great favour with wine lovers and wines from specific vineyard sites (it have gone a good way to restoring the still makes an enormous amount of The Verband Deutscher notion that Germany can produce wines inexpensive, ordinary table wine), thePradikatsweinguter (VDP) is a prestigious that go well with food. introduction of drier styles and a focusgrower association that includes some of on premium quality by associations suchthe finest wine estates in Germany. There VDP wines attract premium prices, a as the VDP means Germany’s positionare 200 producers and although they reflection of the care and attention that as one of the world’s premium wineonly hold some 3.5 per cent of Germany’s has gone in to their production. In an producers seems secure.total vineyard area, the association effort to make wines that could be offeredwields huge influence. Growers have at a more competitive price point, and Opposite: Copyright www.germanwines.de.chosen to focus on lowering yields, to further cement Germany’s reputationhonouring classic grape varieties and as a producer of drier styles, two new RIESLING TASTINGsubmit their wines to regular tastings and wine categories were introduced in 2000. STARTS PAGE 134.inspections in an effort to keep quality Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 29

DEALING DIRECT A LOCAL SUCCESS A NEW WEB- BASED WINE ‘STORE’ IS GAINING TRACTION.30 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

JOY WALTERFANGFROM THE PRODUCER is a recently launched websitewhere you can purchase wines from Australian producers. So what’s so special about that, you ask? From the Produceris quite different from anything that is out there at the momentbecause, as the name suggests, you are dealing directly withthe producer - there is no middleman. No middleman meansmore profit for the wineries and therefore better deals forthe consumer. Products must be locally produced, importedproducts are not permitted. At the time of writing there are80 wineries represented on this site from virtually every wineregion in Australia. From the Producer is the creation of John Cameron, aVictorian who has been variously described as entrepreneur, ITinnovator, philanthropist and lover of wine. Cameron spent twoyears developing the website which was launched in July. Fromthe Producer is a virtual bottle shop or, as its designer callsit, “a free, neutral, central marketplace”. In true philanthropicspirit Cameron has given this site to the industry to be run asa free service for wine producers so they can connect and dobusiness with consumers. From the Producer has the full backing of the Winemakers’Federation of Australia. Chairman Tony D’Aloisio believes thesite will be especially good for the smaller companies andyoung winemakers who might not have ready access toa retail distribution network or an online facility. The siteaffords consumers the opportunity to not only buy wineat a good price, but also discover hidden gems thatwill never be seen on a store shelf. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 31

YOU CAN SEARCH FOR WINES BY A NUMBER OF FILTERS - PRODUCER,REGION, VARIETY, PRICE OR EVEN COLOUR. As the website says: “A thriving community of local of our wines on the site; wines that are not readily availableproducers drives diversity, innovation and quality.” Sixty wine through our usual outlets.”companies signed up for the free service when it began inJuly - three months later the number was 80 and has been From the Producer website is extremely user friendly. Yousteadily increasing. To ensure consumers are buying wine can search for wines by a number of filters - producer, region,from reputable producers, producers must be members of variety, price or even colour! You can keep track of your ordertheir relevant official industry association. by logging in at any time and, as with any online purchase, the consumer pays the freight but on this site you can nominate Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards is a small family winery in McLaren your preferred freight company.Vale with 173 years of experienceunder its belt. Winemaker and Producers of Australian cheeses are also included on thedirector Corrina Wright, whose website and cheeses can be selected by producer, texture,great, great, great, great milk type, style and price. Add to this an eclectic rangegrandfather started the winery, has of Australian olive oils and youmade its entire range of premium have a gourmet experience.wines available from the website. It has been a rocky few years for the Australian wine “We have been with From the Producer industry, particularly for thesince it was launched,” says Wright. “Even smaller producers. But as an unknownthough we have our own website we wanted tobe a part of this new initiative. The might of all of us banding sage once said: “For every challenge encountered there is antogether is a powerful tool and grouping together means we opportunity for growth”. Thanks to Cameron’s generosity andcan offer more opportunities for consumers.” his company Cameron Edge, this could be the opportunity that our smaller producers have been looking for. Larger wineries such as Taylors Wines, Angove FamilyWinemakers and Yalumba are also supporting the website. Advertising funds for the website are very limited so it will be up to all of us to spread the word: “Help support the people “We were there from the beginning,” says Nick Waterman, who make the products we love. Buy direct from the producer.”Yalumba’s Chief Operating Officer. “We thought it important tosupport this industry initiative and those small producers that FROM THE PRODUCER TASTINGdon’t have access to markets. We have put a limited number STARTS PAGE 144.32 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

WINE OFTHE YEARSPECIAL AWARDS FEATURE 2014Featuring the winners and placegetters foreach varietal category from over 11,000tasted throughout the year. Plus profiles ofthe Australian and New Zealand winemakerand wine company of the year.

THE JUDGINGEVALUATING THE ELITEAFTER A MAMMOTH year of judging This year we were pleased to again it both a pleasure and a pain. After all have Stephen John as chairman of categories were decided we were thenover 11,000 wines in Australia and New judges, and for the first time, Bill (William) brought back to evaluate the winnerZealand we now come to the pointy Hardy, international ambassador for the of each category against each otherend where the best of the best can be Accolade wine group and descendant to decide which wines stood out asrevealed. In Australia I was pleased to of the legendary Hardy family, plus being “best of breed” above others of asupervise all the tastings in the various myself as the third panel member. similar nature.capital cities where peer winemakers, Wines were judged over two days, allexperienced trade buyers and Masters completely blind within the 14 categories  I would like to congratulate all ourof Wine in panels of three judged blind involved. To qualify all wines had to have Top Five category nominees, the Classall before them. In New Zealand, with achieved either a five or four-and-a-half winners and our Wine of the Year andMichael Cooper’s chairmanship, we star rating throughout the year. Why Runner Up; a mighty effort by all.evaluated about 3000 wines in that four-and-a-half star, you might ask? Finally we could not do this without thetotal, again using experienced peer Because wine judging is an art, and amazing support of our sponsors and thewinemakers in our judging panels. an imperfect science, where context expertise provided by our panel judges Effectively Winestate is a series of small plays a very important part. How often from all around both our countries. Ourwine shows in a magazine, judged in do we see a wine judged in the middle grateful thanks to them all.the same way as regional and city wine of winter later blossom in the middle ofshows using the 20-point international summer and vice versa? We want to Cheerswine system, where gold, silver and make sure that we don’t miss any gemsbronze translates into our three, four along the way. Peter Simicand five star awards.  Interestingly, wine Editor/Publishershows using panels of three judges are  Our task was to pick the Top Fivenotoriously known to be much tougher in (where applicable) from each category, Winestate Magazine would like to take thistheir recommendations than individual and then the winner from each. There opportunity to thank our major sponsors forwine critics, for the simple reason that was surprising agreement across most their ongoing support.you need at least two out of three judges of the categories, with the exception ofto agree on each wine. This also applies shiraz, where the sheer numbers and · D.W. Fox Tuckerto all Winestate tastings. high quality of the 2012 vintage made · Adelaide Convention Centre · Italian Chamber of CommercePeter Simic Bill Hardy JUDGES (Melbourne) Inc Stephen John · Pellenc · Artisan Wine Storage · Orora Glass · Classic Oak Products · Get Wines Direct · Transtherm Australia (Vintec Wine Cabinets) · Aldi Stores · Hamburg Süd · Luigi Bormioli · Pulpit Cellars (Eureka Group) · Winemakers Federation of Australia · Gantleys of Queenstown (New Zealand)34 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

CHAIRMAN’S THE CLASSES COMMENTS IN BRIEFSPARKLING SEMILLON CABERNET SAUVIGNONAn incredible range of styles all displaying Again the Hunter dominated the class, The 2012 vintage must go down as theexcellent attention to detail in the pursuit of pushed very hard by one outstanding classic year. The top wines showed allachieving cellar styles. All top four sparkling Barossa wine. The 2009 vintage is of the hallmarks which has made thiswhites were pinot chardonnay blends showing as a brilliant year for semillon. A variety so famous. Varietal definition,of great quality offering the consumer classic Australian style which is leading structure, freshness and very classy oakincredible choice. The one sparkling shiraz the world with this variety. A pleasure were a feature in the top wines which allwas a classic Australian style. to judge. have incredible cellaring potential.OTHER DRY WHITES CHARDONNAY SHIRAZA very exciting class to judge. Great to Great to see the elegance with flavour, Understandably a very big class, with 60see winemakers understanding these and the astute use of classy oak and per cent of wines from the 2012 vintage.varieties, presenting diverse, interesting controlled MLF/lees stirring in these There were obviously many outstandingwell-made wine with true varietal wines, resulting in great palate texture. wines which created much debate by thedefinition. Top wine was unanimous. The 2012 vintage dominated the class, judges, which resulted in seven wines with the 2013s generally lacking in vying for top position. Classic stylesPINOT GRIS/GRIGIO flavour. Top wine outstanding. won the day, with the intense colour, freshness, generous structured palatesInteresting styles without reaching OTHER DRY REDS and balanced oak.any great heights. The wines were wellmade, offering the consumer an easy The top wine was a unanimous winner SWEET WHITESdrinking alternative. out of the starting blocks - outstanding GSM. A very big class of alternative A very small class of four wines whichSAUVIGNON BLANC varieties and classic blends. The judges were all considered to be of excellent felt more understanding is required with style and quality. The classic varieties ofA New Zealand blitz with a variety the alternative varieties, with a very semillon and riesling vied for top spot,they do so well, with one outstanding exciting future ahead. with the semillon coming out on top withTasmanian wine in the top five. The top its great complexity.wine was a world-leading classic style. PINOT NOIR FORTIFIEDRIESLING A large class of excellent varying styles causing much discussion by Absolutely outstanding class ofThe 2014 vintage is shaping up to be a the judges. The top wines showed a Australia’s wine history. Extraordinarygreat year for riesling. The top wine was complete understanding of the variety, age, freshness, lusciousness. A privilegepristine in its display of elegant varietal with freshness, elegance, spice and to judge and enjoy.fruit and balance. One outstanding texture wrapped up in one parcel.aged wine in the top five displaying theversatility of this variety. MERLOT A very small class, however the top five all exhibited true varietal fruit and excellent oak handling resulting in generous flavours and softness.*All technical details for the Wine of the Year Special Feature are supplied directly from each winery. Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 35



SPARKLING of the year WIN NER THE GET WINES DIRECT TROPHY Brown Brothers Patricia King Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut 2008 WINEMAKER: Wendy Cameron and Cate Looney. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: The Patricia Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Brut shows a light straw colour with a fine persistent bead. The nose is lifted with a rich yeast autolysis character and hints of citrus and apple. The palate is full bodied and complex with prominent lemon and lime flavours and a bready character that lingers. The palate is creamy and elegant with a crisp, dry finish and refreshing acidity. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: This refined sparkling wine makes the perfect start to a special meal and is delightful with freshly shucked oysters and a squeeze of lemon juice. Alternatively, try it with bbq calamari and a spicy aioli or hoisin rice paper rolls with a light chilli dipping sauce. CELLARING: Enjoy this wine over the next 3 to 4 years. VITICULTURE: All the fruit for the Patricia Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Brut is grown at the high altitude Whitlands vineyard, where the climate is ideal for retaining the type of acidity that is essential for this style of wine. The vineyard is located at 800m above sea level in the sub-alpine area at the top end of the King Valley. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: The 2008 vintage is a blend of 79% Pinot Noir and 21% Chardonnay. The fruit was hand-picked in March and whole bunch pressed in air bag presses. The grapes are very gently pressed to yield 500 litres of juice per tonne (compared with 700-750 per tonne for table wines) to minimise the impact of the harsher compounds from the grape skins.The base wines all underwent malolactic fermentation to add complexity to the blend. The secondary fermentation was deliberately extended to produce a fine bead, then given 5 years on lees to provide further complexity. The wine was then disgorged and liqueured, with an alcohol of 13.0%, a pH of 3.20 and an acid level of 6.7 g/L .This wine was made in strict adherence to the traditional Methode Champenoise techniques. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 03 5720 5500 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.brownbrothers.com.auLUIGI BORMIOLI GLASS - 240ML SUPREMO CHAMPAGNE Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 37

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS TEMPUS TWO PEWTER SERIES BROWN BROTHERS KING ADELAIDE HILLS PINOT VALLEY PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY 2011 CHARDONNAY PINOT MEUNIER NV WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Andrew Duff. Wendy Cameron & Cate Looney. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Clear, pale straw with lifted toast and This current release sparkling wine has biscuit notes which harmonize through an attractive pale green-gold colour with apple and white peach. Creamy texture fresh, lively aromas of pear and apple. with a clean, tight refreshing bubble The wine explodes in the mouth – a soft layered with toasty, citrus and complexed creamy feeling that is a direct result of nut on the palate. the very fine bubble. The green apple CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: flavours carry through to the palate with Phone: 02 4998 4199 lemon citrus notes accompanied by E-mail: [email protected] the soft creaminess and a delicate and Web: www.tempustwo.com.au refreshing acid on the finish. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 03 5720 5500 E-mail: [email protected] Web: brownbrothers.com.au38 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

MCLAREN VALE III ASSOCIATES GRANT BURGE HELENE GRANDSQUID INK MCLAREN VALE CUVEE TASMANIA PINOT NOIRSPARKLING SHIRAZ NV CHARDONNAY 2004WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Brian Light & Campbell Greer. Grant Burge & David Horne.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Intense deep red. Complex nose with Clear, pale gold colour, with persistent finehighlights of ripe berries and spice bead. The nose is full of complex toasty,with hints of vanilla and chocolate. Rich brioche-like aromas, white truffle, nougatconcentrated flavours of berry and spice. and fresh cream are all in abundance.Full round texture with integrated oak The palate is layered with white peach,notes and a clean tannin finish. nectarine, citrus and a long biscuity mid-CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: palate; full of structure and poise yet stillPhone: 1800 501 513 retains an incredible freshness from theE-mail: [email protected] natural acidity. The length and breadth ofWeb: www.mclarenvaleiiiassociates. the finish is the real key to this wine style,com.au retaining a vibrancy and persistence that few wines can achieve. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 08 8563 3700 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.grantburgewines.com.au Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 39

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ALTERNATIVE WHITE of the year WIN NER THE LUIGI BORMIOLI TROPHY Mount Burrumboot Heathcote Marsanne Viognier 2009 WINEMAKER: Cathy Branson. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Lovely example of this blend; colour a deep gold, it is a mid-weight, dry white wine blended from the two Rhone white grapes, viognier and marsanne. Aromas of apricot kernels, passionfruit and honeysuckle, with a hint of almond; a long, melony finish in the mouth, fresh on the palate and citrusy. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Thai and Indian dishes; roast pork knuckle with buttered cabbage; fish. CELLARING: Hard to say! Improving with age, probably 2017. VITICULTURE: Minimal irrigation, spur pruned on VSP trellis. Minimal sprays of sulfur and copper. Viticulture according to sustainable agricultural principals. Handpicked early in vintage. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: Picked at 12 baume, Marsanne and Viognier picked separately, crushed separately. Marsanne was crushed to tank for cold maceration overnight, before being gently pressed into tank for temperature controlled ferment, then into new oak barriques for 3-4 weeks. Partial malo. Viognier was pressed as whole bunches, straight to tank for temperature controlled ferment. No time in oak. No malo. Blended the two wines after a month, bottled September 09. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 0438 329 238 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.burrumboot.comLUIGI BORMIOLI GLASS - ATELIER C399 Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 41

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS BLACK BARN VINEYARDS HANDCRAFTED BY GEOFF SINGLE VINEYARD VIOGNIER HARDY ADELAIDE HILLS FIANO 2013 2013 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Dave McKee. Shane Harris. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Bright, very pale straw colour. The nose The nose shows delicate orange sherbet, is full, open and voluminous with ethereal rock melon and sweeter apricot notes, and interwoven aromas of exotic florals, with a slight mineral undercurrent shown white stonefruits and apricots, unfolding through fresh river rock pebble aromas. musk and herb elements from the core. The palate is sensual and textured and Dry to taste and medium-full bodied, leaves a crisp acidic finish in your mouth. flavours of florals, stonefruits, citrus zest CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: and musk are complexed by subtle flinty Phone: 08 8383 2700 and nutty nuances. E-mail: [email protected]. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: au Phone: +64 6 877 7985 Web: www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy. E-mail: [email protected] com.au Web: www.blackbarn.com42 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014

RUTHERGLEN ESTATES YEALANDS ESTATE SINGLERENAISSANCE RUTHERGLEN VINEYARD AWATERE VALLEYVIOGNIER ROUSSANNE MARLBOROUGH GRUNERMARSANNE 2012 VELTLINER 2014WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Marc Scalzo. Tamra Kelly-Washington.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Pale straw. On the nose there are delicate Shows lifted notes of roasted almonds,honeysuckle, apricot, flinty and tropical spice and honey. The palate is richfruit notes, with stylish hints of cedar and multi-layered with complementaryand toast from premium oak and lees savoury notes of pepper and spice, whichcontact. The palate is mouth-filling has integrates well with fine acidity.a creamy texture and ripe fruit flavours, CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:with enduring citrus and toasty notes on Phone: +64 3 575 7618the finish. E-mail: [email protected] CONTACT DETAILS: Web: www.yealands.co.nzPhone: 02 6032 7999E-mail: [email protected]: www.rutherglenestates.com.au Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 43

Market your wines to the world!Join the Australian Wine Industry Export and Buyersmission to Verona in 2015Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March 2015The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-readycompanies and for buyers sourcing international wines.Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyerssourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western andEastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America.The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne isthe Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance toAustralian wine industry professionals attending the show:- Space and stand bookings at preferential rates- Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona- Logistics- Visitor registrationICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact betweenthe Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services forthe wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching andappointment agendas.For more information contact:Level 1, 185 Faraday Street,Carlton VIC 3053, AustraliaTel: 03 9866 5433E: [email protected]

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO of the year WIN NER THE ITALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE MELBOURNE TROPHY Wairau River Marlborough Pinot Gris 2014 WINEMAKER: Sam Rose. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: The pure age of these vines give the wine texture and palate weight. It is rich, floral and fleshy with mouth-filling stone-fruit, pear and spice flavours. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Our favourite match is a double-baked cheese soufflé with a pear and walnut salad, but feel free to pair with veal or pork, or at the end of a meal relax with a selection of blue cheeses. CELLARING: 2014-2018. VITICULTURE: From Wairau River’s original ‘Home Block’, this is a single vineyard wine from 24 year old grapes. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: Harvested in the cool hours of the morning these grapes were gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel vats. A small parcel was fermented and aged in older French oak (5%) to add texture and palate weight. After blending the wine was left to settle before bottling on the Wairau River Estate. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 3 572 7950 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.wairauriverwines.comLUIGI BORMIOLI GLASS - 380ML VINOTEQUE ‘FRAGRANTE’ Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 45

Quality Wiimtapionlrieatesnd 1308/13) ( 6 7 , 9$ / & , 7 < $'(/$,'(_0(/%2851(_'$5:,1

CENTENNIAL VINEYARDS MAUDE CENTRAL OTAGOOLD BLOCK SOUTHERN PINOT GRIS 2014HIGHLANDS PINOT GRIGIO2014 WINEMAKER: Sarah-Kate & Dan Dineen.WINEMAKER: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Tony Cosgriff­. Classic pear drop, ginger and floralCOLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: aromas are abundant in this youthful PinotOn the nose there are aromas of pear, Gris. The palate is lush with full flavoursyellow and red apple, fresh summer of poached pear and exotic spice yetherbs, and a hint of pastry. The palate finished crisp and clean.is juicy and light, crisp and lively, with CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:grapefruit, red delicious apple, pear and Phone: +64 3 443 2­ 959feijoa flavours running the full length of the E-mail: [email protected]. The finish is long and satisfying, Web: www.maudewines.comand dangerously easy to drink, makingfor the perfect summer wine.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: 02 4861 8722E-mail: [email protected]: www.centennial.net.au Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 47

nothing but the fruitWinery On-Board High-frequency linear destemmer and roller sorting table. Gentle motion keeps stalks and berries intact, unlike traditional rotary destemmers. Straight to the fermenter or press! Removes more than 95 % of Petioles, MOG and green waste *Available in 3 models to suit all winery sizes and sorting requirements. www.pellenc.com.auFor more information contact:Pellenc Australia 14 Opala St, Regency Park SA 5010P| 08 8244 7700 F| 08 8244 7788 E| [email protected]

RIESLING of the year WINNER THE PELLENC TROPHY Boston Bay Peninsulas South Australia Riesling 2014 WINEMAKER: Boston Bay Wines / contract winemakers O’Leary Walker. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Powerful perfumed palate, showing spicy citrus flavours with floral undertones and plenty of steely acid layered with Boston bay’s trademark mineral tones. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Eyre Peninsula Pacific Oysters. CELLARING: Drink now/two years. VITICULTURE: World’s closest riesling vines to the sea, “we joke its planted so close, we can only prune at low tide”. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: 30 year old vines, Hand Pruned, Handpicked, refrigerated transport to O’Leary Walkers. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 0438 642 901 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bostonbaywines.com.auLUIGI BORMIOLI GLASS- 440ML ATELIER RIESLING Special Edition 2014 W I N E S TAT E 49

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS JACOB’S CREEK STEINGARTEN PETER LEHMANN WIGAN EDEN EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2013 VALLEY RIESLING 2009 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Bernard Hickin. Andrew Wigan, Ian Hongell, Peter Kelly COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: & Tim Dolan. Pale green straw. Intense aromas of COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: lemon citrus with subtle toast notes. Colour is delicate lemon with a green Leading with delicate lemon flavours, tinge. The bouquet shows classic Eden the palate delivers nuances of light toast Valley lime juice characters with some and a subtle flintiness reminiscent of the toasty, freshly baked brioche notes stone-laden ground the wine is named arising from 5 years of bottle aging. The for. A textural mineral acidity provides the palate is pristine and finishes dry with spine that carries these flavours on to a zesty minerality. lingering finish. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 08 8565 9555 Phone: 1300 363 153 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com Web: www.jacobscreek.com50 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2014