Winestate Magazine November December 2022

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WOLF OF THE New Releases WINE INDUSTRY 169 tasted THE INCREDIBLE LEGACY AND LEGEND THAT IS WOLF BLASS Pinot Noir JIMMY REVISITED 91 tasted THE JIMMY BUILDING ON A LEGACY WATSON TROPHY Bangor Vineyard &Champagne Sparkling Rosé127tasted 150 tasted THE POWER OF A Sparkling CARE E R PROSECCO The career of Pam Dunsford FIELDS OF DREAMS Newcomer Drury Lane Estate has November/December 2022 big plans on the horizon Vol 45 Issue 6 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Rosé • Pinot Noir • Best Value Buys Under $20 • New Releases • Champagne & Sparkling Riesling • Sauvignon Blanc & Blends • Pinot Gris/Grigio • Michael Cooper's Recent Releases NZ

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NO.316 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2022 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (02) 7618 2945 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Berlinda Conti Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. phone +61 8 8357 9277 or Copyright 2022 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, on-line www.winestate.com.au translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2022 34 38 FEATURES 34 BUILDING ON A LEGACY R E G U L A R S 22 JIMMY REVISTED - THE JIMMY WIth historic roots (not vines) that 8 Briefs WATSON TROPHY go back to Abel Tasman planting 15 NZ Briefs the Dutch flag on their family-owned 16 European Report with Sally Easton The iconic Jimmy Watson Trophy for property 380 years ago, fledgling 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley best one-to-two year old red started winery Bangor Vineyard has all the 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King in 1962 to honour the man for whom right ingredients to continue making 48 Grapevine it was named. Since this time, history. 98 Aftertaste Winestate has conducted the two most comprehensive tastings of the 38 THE POWER OF PROSECCO W I N E TAST I N G S winners of this award ever held - in 2002 and in this current issue. Dan Winsor Dobbin takes us on 51 Semillon & Blends Traucki reminisces and ruminates a journey to the homeland of 54 Pinot Noir on these great wines and if they're prosecco to discover why this style 58 Riesling still worthy of the accolade. is so appealing. 62 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio 65 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends 28 WOLF OF THE WINE INDUSTRY 42 FIELDS OF DREAMS 68 Rosé 72 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases The man, the myth, the legend Covid didn't deter Alexandra and that is Wolf Blass has no equal in Angus Scott from setting out on a the history of the Australian wine vinous journey and developing their industry. Nigel Hopkins explores new venture, Drury Lane. Using Wolf's extraordinary life and the all of their talents from previous legacy that he is continually corporate careers is proving a creating. recipe for success. 80 A SPARKLING CAREER 84 Champagne & Sparkling 88 New Releases Joy Walterfang pays homage 93 Best Value Buys under $20 to one of the industry greats, Pam Dunsford, whose legacy in sparkling wine production is truly that - sparkling. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 316 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2022 Cover photograph Mark Trumble of Photographyroom 4 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

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editorial AS WE HEAD INTO THE WARMER PART OF THE YEAR it is time to pull out the shorts and start thinking about crisp and cool white wines and lovely coloured inviting rosés. Accordingly in this issue we are pleased to bring you a host of all of the above ranging from sauvignon blanc, pinot gris/grigio, riesling, semillon and of course rosé. It makes for a comprehensive issue that you can come back to time and time again when you feel the urge for something light and white... or pink. In summary, sauvignon blancs make the most obvious connection for a blind tasting with their herbaceous, grassy tropical edges, whilst riesling offers spicy citrus-like flavours and aromas. Fortunately for the latter dryness has become more consistent now rather than the confused half sweet or dry offerings of the past. Pinot gris or pinot grigios are generally the lighter crowd pleasers that are eminently quaffable although there are the occasional well-crafted versions. Semillon is the granddaddy of whites with the best aging proposition of all the whites, indeed often needing this age to show at its best. Rosé is the most beautifully coloured of all wines ranging from very pale salmon, to bright pink, to onion tones, to even light red. You have lots of enjoyable work ahead of you to work this all out. But there’s more. In addition to all these wines we also conducted our annual Sparkling Wine & Champagne judging. Here we saw vintage and non-vintage wines, Proseccos and Champagne. With Christmas and New Year around the corner a timely reminder to get yourself ready for the festive season. And if that’s not enough a goodly selection of New Zealand wines from Michael Cooper are profiled and our own latest New Releases. Phew! For our feature stories we begin with a massive 20 year anniversary of our Jimmy Watson judging back in 2002, with the same panel of judges from the previous judging; Wolf Blass, Dan Traucki, Peter Bissel and myself. With Dan Traucki’s help and Wolf’s support, we managed to round up 44 out of the 59 winners. As the leading winner of multiple JW trophies we also thought it was appropriate to do an update story on Wolf and his legacy to the wine industry. Also included in this issue are more feature stories to delight. Winsor Dobbin is busy with stories on Prosecco, plus wineries Drury Lane and Bangor Wines. Joy Walterfang adds a tribute story about legendary winemaker Pam Dunsford. And of course we have all our columnists to add to the mix. Lots to try and lots to enjoy. Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Editor/Publisherour ports. Major Sponsors and Supporters Australia Export Customer Service WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 7

briefs A BARREL FULL OF FUN IT’S ALL IN THE NAME WINE-loving visitors to Victoria can now choose to stay in a giant NEW ZEALAND’S decision to recognise Prosecco as a wine barrel. geographical indicator has been well received in Italy and poorly met in Australia. The first Skybarrel from the team at Clifftop at Hepburn Springs is described as “Australia's most adrenaline-churning luxury villa.” A recent agreement means that only Italian Prosecco from the Prosecco region will be able to be sold under that name in New Part of a collection of luxury accommodation options owned Zealand - and not Prosecco made and grown in Australia, which and operated by David and Manolita Penman, the first of several will have to use a different name. planned new Skybarrel villas opened in September. The recognition of Prosecco comes as part of a larger bilateral “They’re luxury dwellings in massive barrels,” says David trade agreement between New Zealand and the European Union. Penman. “One of them is 16 metres above ground. We have snapped up pretty much the best views in Ballarat (literally on the The decision follows a similar agreement between China and side of Mount Buninyong) and we are putting the barrels on top of the EU in 2021. an extinct volcano with an 80-metre vertical drop.” Australia has been producing Prosecco since 1999 - largely Something special then. See www.clifftopathepburn.com.au/ in the King Valley in Victoria - and those producers had argued that the name refers to a variety of grape, rather than a geographical indication. Damien Griffante, director of strategy and international affairs at Australian Grape & Wine, said the announcement was a blow. “We are disappointed in the decision as reported and are seeking clarification of the impacts from the New Zealand Government,” he said. WOMEN, WINE & SONG A female-owned wine bar in suburban Melbourne is giving a helping hand to local female musicians. Ericka Argiris from Murrumbeena Wine Bar has recruited a line-up of young female musicians who match the bar’s mood, giving them a spotlight and an audience that will hopefully help kickstart their careers. Argiris says she wants to emphasize the importance of giving local female artists the spotlight. She says she often scouts local talent from the Melbourne Musicians Facebook page if she believes they would complement her venue. One of her long-standing favourites is Abbey Williams, who performs jazz songs with her 50s-style microphone every Sunday afternoon. Mia Pisano is a local acoustic folk singer who performs a mixture of her own songs and popular covers while Ruby Mae was one of Murrumbeena Wine Bar’s first artists and occasionally makes a reappearance with her blend of rock, folk and punk. Music is something that Argiris has wanted to incorporate into her venue since it opened in 2019. “Each of our artists has their unique sound, even when they play covers, and I encourage them to play their own music too,” she says. The wine list features a number of smaller wineries including West Cape Howe, Kate Hill, Stargazer and Atze's Corner available by the glass - along with some imports and a small list of \"natural\" wines. The bar's caters to a wide range of tastes including offering 8 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

briefs grazing platters (with a Vegan alternative), and small plates The creator of Kaesler’s The Bogan Shiraz; Reid Bosward, will be like salt and pepper calamari, and jalapeno poppers along with handing over the reins to Dolan to concentrate on other agricultural hand-made Waygu cheeseburger spring rolls. pursuits with Duxton Bees and in regenerative farming but will remain a part of the business. There is also a broad list of cocktails, ciders and spirits. For more info about the wine bar and its weekly schedule of See www.kaesler.com.au and www.saintandscholar.com.au live performances, see www.murrumbeenawinebar.com.au/. A CHILLY SOLUTION DOLAN JOINS DURAL FRENCH winemakers RISING winemaking star Tim Dolan has made a move across the and merchants are Barossa from Peter Lehmann Wines to join Dural Wines, which turning to chilled red owns the Kaesler and Saint and Scholar brands. wines – quite rare in France - to increase The third-generation winemaker is the son of Nigel Dolan and revenues. grandson of Bryan Dolan, who are regarded as two of the most influential Australian winemakers of their respective eras. Despite many French drinkers being very Tim Dolan was awarded Dux of the Len Evans Tutorial in 2018 traditional in their and has a degree in oenology from the University of Adelaide as approach, a new wave of well as being a show judge. French reds is designed to be enjoyed as Dural Wines CEO Catherine Turnadge said, “We are excited to young and at the same have Tim on the team, making the wines his own, and taking them temperature as rosés. to the next generation.” New ways of presenting Dolan spent 10 years as the senior winemaker at Peter Lehmann wines can result in new - initially working under the legendary Andrew Wigan - and has customers, says Jerome done vintages in different regions across the US, Italy, Canada, Busato, who served his red wine at 10˚C in a bucket filled with ice at Inter Rhône wine bar in Avignon. and Australia. \"It's the wine that I sold the most during this evening when I “I am looking forward to presented my range of Côtes du Rhône wines,\" says the owner of organic producer Château Cohola in the village of Sablet. working with the vineyard This cuvée is called Fruit and is vinified to be drunk chilled. assets at Kaesler and “In summer, tourists are more likely to choose rosés and making not only the shiraz whites than reds, which nevertheless constitute the heart of our that it’s famous for but production,\" says Busato. also my favourite red \"So, two years ago, with my wife, we decided to offer them a cuvée variety, grenache,\" he to drink during their holidays. It was a real success. said. \"Customers who buy a bottle come back to take a box. The return rate is truly amazing!\" \"In addition, it will be Maison Laurent Brotte in Châteauneuf-du-Pape has just launched exciting to be a part its Rouge Frigo, a Côtes-du-Rhône rouge with an alcohol content of building Saint and of 12.5˚, designed to be drunk chilled as its name proclaims. See Scholar with Stephen www.rougefrigo.com/ Dew, through crafting exceptional wines from the unique Gumeracha estate in the Adelaide Hills.” November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs “We want to find the moments of consumption such as the aperitif, unveiled continued expansion across New Zealand and Australia, the grills, the unstructured meals,” says winery commercial director with the signing of four new hotels in New Zealand with CP Group. Thibault Brotte. The partnership will see the opening of four new hotels including Rouge Frigo sells for €5.95. \"We have never had so much interest a Joe&Joe in Auckland, two Tribe hotels in Auckland, and a Hyde in a product launch,\" says Brotte. in Queenstown across 2023-24. In Bordeaux, too, the machine is in motion. Ennismore’s portfolio in the Pacific region already includes Tribe The Larraqué Vins International group has created a red called Perth and SO/ Auckland, as well as SO/ Melbourne, Mondrian Hors-Piste (Off The Track), a cabernet franc with an alcohol Gold Coast and 25hours Sydney, all set to open between 2023-25. content of 12.5˚. “Rosés are doing well and now almost all year round,” says Gaurav Bhushan, co-CEO of Ennismore, says: “This is a major Grégoire Delangre, the company's communications manager. \"We milestone in Ennismore’s journey to bring our globally recognised think there's a place for fresh drinking reds.\" lifestyle brands to key cities in New Zealand. NEW LOOK FOR SKILLOGALEE \"We want to be the leading lifestyle hotel player in the Pacific region and we see it as an opportunity to bring our fresh and THE new owner of Skillogalee Wines in the Clare Valley has unveiled a exciting brands, which are rooted in culture and purpose, to visiting fresh look for the launch of the winery’s 2022 vintage releases. guests and neighbourhood locals. All Skillogalee’s future releases will feature a new brand identity “Globally, the lifestyle segment is bouncing back from the impacts and packaging. of the pandemic quicker than traditional hotels, driven mostly by strong F&B demand. The 2022 Riesling features a design that reinterprets the contours of the vineyards. \"This is generating robust interest and has a strong growth trajectory as we strengthen our position in this segment, with South Australian-raised owner Simon Clausen, who purchased concepts that integrate the notion of entertainment and feature Skillogalee from the Palmer family in 2021, says the design restaurants and bars.” honours Skillogalee’s rich history of achievement and passion while embracing a new era. Ennismore was formed in 2021 in a joint venture with between Sharan Pasricha, founder and co-CEO, and the global Accor group. The Clausen family took over the custodianship of Skillogalee in July 2021 from Dave and Diana Palmer. The Ennismore brands - with a clear fondness for quirky names - includes 21c Museum Hotel, 25hours Hotels, Delano, Gleneagles, “We know how much people love Skillogalee and we really treasure Hyde, Jo&Joe, Mama Shelter, Mondrian, Morgans Originals, SLS, that,” Clausen says. “Everyone has a Skillogalee story, and this SO/, The Hoxton, Tribe and Working From_. redesign is the next step as Skillogalee continues to evolve and grow.” See https://ennismore.com/ The 2022 Riesling is also the first with Skillogalee’s consultant winemaker and Clare Valley icon Kerri (KT) Thompson, at the official DRINK UP FOR DOG LOVERS helm of the winemaking. Calling all dog lovers who enjoy a red wine. “Skillogalee is a special place to many of us and how lovely it is to Sit Stay Society Wines has just launched its new range - the be a part of its continued celebration,” she says. Big Dogs – with 50c from every bottle purchased going to animal “Our small, dedicated team remain committed to creating welfare organisation PetRescue. delicious wines expressing Skillogalee’s spirit and story and this new release from a cracker vintage is a great place to start.” See The range includes Sigurd’s Shiraz 2021 (Langhorne Creek), www.skillogalee.com.au/ Teddy’s Tempranillo 2021 (Adelaide Hills) and Chester’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Langhorne Creek). FOUR NEW HOTELS FOR NZ Sit Stay Society donates from every bottle purchased to WINE lovers can get ready to consider staying in a Jo&Joe, a Tribe PetRescue. To date, Sit Stay Society has raised more than $200,000 or a Hyde if they are planning a New Zealand trip and need a hotel. for PetRescue. Ennismore, a fast-growing lifestyle hospitality company, has PetRescue’s data over the last two years highlights that dogs of bigger breeds take 58% longer than small dogs to find a new home once they arrive in shelters or foster care. 10 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

briefs us stand out from the rest,” said Oxford Landing senior brand manager Carolyn Macleod. “All Oxford Landing wines are vegan, sustainably produced and bottled at our winery in South Australia, which is accredited with Sustainable Winegrowing Australia.” “PetRescue has grown to be an immensely helpful tool for RHYMER MOVES ON connecting shelters and rescue organisations with people looking to adopt a pet,\" says Vickie Davy, PetRescue founder and director. DYLAN Rhymer has spent 22 years as head winemaker at Ballandean Estate, Queensland’s oldest family-owned and \"The support of Sit Stay Society Wines ensures we can continue operated winery. to invest in technology that gets pets into homes faster. Now Rhymer is moving to Brisbane to be closer to family and “Big dogs currently spend longer in shelters than smaller dogs, pursue a career in the bicycle industry. which is a difficult environment for a pet to be in. We are excited to extend our partnership with Sit Stay Society Wines and to Fourth-generation vigneron Leeanne Puglisi-Gangemi says: encourage people to consider adopting big dogs!” “Dylan has underpinned Ballandean Estate’s industry accolades for almost a quarter of a century. He is our longest-serving The Sit Stay Society Big Dog range will be available online and winemaker. We have survived drought, bushfires, hailstorms, and in store at Dan Murphy’s for $16. See www.sitstaysocietywines. floods – he’s family.” com.au. Rhymer led the development of the saperavi grape on the Granite Belt. His legacy includes delivering the acclaimed 50th Anniversary Edition 2018 Shiraz. As a flying winemaker he also did vintages in Marlborough, Hawkes Bay, Bulgaria, Spain, and South Australia. OXFORD LANDING NEW IDENTITY DISCOVER REMOTE TASSIE THE Oxford Landing collection has been in the Australian EXPLORING the wilderness regions of Tasmania will take on a new market for three decades and is a flagship brand for South dimension with the launch of a new luxury vessel. Australia's Riverland. On Board/Tasmanian Expedition Cruises will launch a new The collection was recently re-launched with a new \"visual custom-designed boat, Odalisque III, at the end of the year. identity\" that has modernised the brand. The new label represents Oxford Landing’s home on the banks of the Murray Pieter van der Woude, On Board founder and skipper, said the River with the logo depicting the sun over the water. new Odalisque will provide an intimate wilderness experience in remote Tasmanian waters. The current range includes Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Oxford Landing Chardonnay 2022, Oxford Landing Pinot “Hitting the water in January 2023, Odalisque III will take a Grigio 2021, Oxford Landing Merlot 2021, Oxford Landing Shiraz maximum of 12 guests in luxury on the trip of a lifetime in Tasmania’s 2019, and the Oxford Landing Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz 2021. wilderness,” he said. The brand has moved to a lighter weight 420-gram glass bottle “The 24-metre expedition catamaran features six cabins with and 100% recyclable cartons to reduce the brand’s carbon footprint. indoor and outdoor lounge and dining areas. “Our commitment to sustainability is one of the things that makes “Odalisque’s sole purpose is to provide small groups access to some of Tasmania’s most remote waters and wilderness areas, led by local experts.” November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs but our organic certification also guarantees chemicals will not spoil the healthy pH balance of our soil, harm beneficial insects and flora, or pollute our groundwater and local waterways.” Winesmiths Organic Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Cabernet Sauvignon 2-litre casks have an RRP of $24. Van der Woude said the new vessel will cruise into the wilds of FRENCH FLAIR FOR ADELAIDE Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour in south-west Tasmania between January and May each year. THERE is something about a beautifully cooked French meal with fine wines that instantly nourishes the soul, correspondent Odalisque will then cruise the beaches and islands of Tasmania’s Winsor Dobbin reports. east coast from June to December. The boat will also be available for private charter. The arrival in Adelaide of Garcon Bleu means the City of Churches now has its own little gourmet slice of France. Odalisque III will offer suites with walk-around queen beds, ocean views and en-suite bathrooms; chefs seconded from some Garcon Bleu, on level nine of the Sofitel in Currie Street, is of Hobart’s top restaurants, serving local Tasmanian produce and a restaurant that happens to be in a hotel, rather than a hotel cool-climate wines, craft beers and spirits with an emphasis on restaurant - and it buzzes every night it is open. the best of Tasmania. The $150 million new-build hotel offers guests a selection of Van der Woude said Port Davey is a remote and spectacular 251 rooms and suites with a choice of city and Adelaide Hills harbour on the edge of the world, inaccessible by road and visited views - but the quality of the restaurant makes it a stand-alone by just a privileged few each year. destination. Port Davey highlights include: the sea caves of Breaksea Islands, Think a casual ambience but a serious approach to classic hiking to wilderness peaks to take in views over the harbour and French dishes using local produce. national park; and cruising the Davey River looking out for the critically-endangered orange-bellied parrot. Garçon Bleu’s has a 90-seat dining room with an open kitchen, wine wall, and an oyster and raw seafood bar. Odalisque III is the only expedition vessel that On Board will operate and will replace their current cruiser, Odalisque II. The wine list offers an excellent selection of French (lots of serious Burgundy temptations) and Australian labels, from On Board is taking bookings for Port Davey Escape expeditions favourites like Henschke to micro producers like Ministry of between January-May, and East Coast Expeditions from June- Clouds and Stargazer. November 2023. See https://onboardexpeditions.com.au/ Wines by the glass include labels like Shaw+Smith, Yangarra ORGANIC CASK WINE and John Duval. QUALITY cask wine producer Winesmiths has introduced a new collection of certified organic wines to its portfolio in response to consumer demand for sustainable drinking options. Certified by Australian Certified Organic, Winesmiths Organic collection has been audited from vineyard to pack, with criteria that promote environmental biodiversity and eliminate the use of chemicals from vine to bottle. Winesmiths Senior Brand Manager Lisa Antoney says organic shoppers are keen on the choice of purchasing wine in a more environmentally conscious pack in comparison to glass. “Consumers want their beverage choice to meet their ‘better for me, better for the environment’ needs,\" says Antoney. \"Not only is the cask pack a more sustainable option than glass, 12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

briefs The menu features dishes like cheese souffle with bechamel TIME TO GET LUCKY sauce, mushroom velouté and pickled shimeji and classic steak with a 250-gram grass-fed Scotch fillet served with béarnaise NEWCASTLE'S transformation continues with the reopening of sauce and crunchy pommes frites. the Lucky Hotel in the city's East End. Dessert choices include a tarte tatin with crème fraîche ice Not only does the hotel have a new fit-out, it will also have cream and caramel sauce, or a creme brulee. Gordon Ramsay-trained chef Stephen Scott manning the pans. Garcon Bleu is open Wednesday to Friday for lunch from noon The Lucky Hotel, once known as The Oxford, is now operated and Wednesday to Sunday for dinner from 6pm. Reservations are by Sydney pub group Tilley and Wills, who also runs the recommended on (08) 8432 1999. See https://garconbleu.com.au/ Greenwood in North Sydney, The Buena in Mosman, the Paddington Arts Factory, Richmond Inn and Cabana Bar. MOO BREW MOVES Exposed bricks will pay homage to the Lucky's past - the hotel dates back to 1880 - while new concrete structures will The oldest craft brewery in Tasmania is setting up shop in lead to what is promised to be \"one of the best beer gardens Hobart's iconic Salamanca quarter. in the country\" with a three-storey atrium and living green wall. Moo Brew has signed a lease on a property in Salamanca “We wanted our guests - whether repeat visitors or new - to and has plans to develop an unconventional venue to match feel familiar with the venue but also provide a lot of surprises,\" its unconventional beers. says general manager Drew Parsons. Moo Brew is owned by David Walsh, the man behind madcap \"We took a lot of influence from photographer Slim Aarons to MONA, and there are plans for the new venue to be equally the Racquet Club from 1930s Palm Springs. There is something unconventional. new behind every door, a lot to look at and a lot of fun.\" The venue will be \"part taphouse, part bar\" and will house a Acquired by Sydney businessman Martin Scott in early 2022, nano-brewery for concocting experimental brews in situ, as well The Lucky has a gourmet focus. as offering Moo Brew’s classic range of beers. “We seek out the best pubs in great locations and basically The team will also be serving wines from Moorilla and Domaine do a number on them,\" says Tilley & Wills CEO Nick Wills. A - also part of the Walsh empire - alongside an array of food and beverage options to suit all appetites. On signing the lease, Moo Brew general manager Lauren Sheppard said, “Moo Brew does not always take the obvious route. Opening a venue is the next stage of our journey, and we could not be more excited to be doing it in Salamanca and doing it our way.” Located a stone’s throw from Brooke Street Pier - home of the Mona Roma ferry terminal - the venue is set to begin welcoming customers from the end of the year. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs \"We add our touch which means great food, excellent drinks lists, Tannat is thought to have originated in the Basque region of and hire the best people in the business. This site gave us the northwest Spain – Basque migrants took it to Uruguay where it perfect foray into creating Sydney-style pub hospitality in regional became the national red wine variety - but is more associated with NSW’s largest city.” Madiran in southwest France. It’s now planted in many Australian wine regions but remains little celebrated, possibly for the very Chef Scott spent several years in London working under Gordon reason Brown likes it so much. Ramsay where he started as sous chef at The Warrington in Maida Vale, progressing through the ranks to Claridge’s then into Maze “I wanted a wine not for now,” he says, which although he’s been Grill in Mayfair. including it in blends with cabernet sauvignon and shiraz since his first vintage in 2006, his current release is only the 2012 vintage, He returned to Australia in 2016 to head up Matt Kemp’s new with the 2014 now ‘ready to go’. kitchen at the Charring Cross Hotel before moving across to the Matt Moran stable as head chef at The Paddington Inn. “I’m a scientist at heart,” he says, “and every year I’m playing with different variables to evolve that wine. I’m growing in confidence “I was attracted by the vision of the team and new owners wanting with the tannat content, moving it more to the front. The first to move beyond standard pub grub and offer something more akin to vintages were a third of each grape variety, but now I’m getting our contemporary capital city and international gastro-pubs,\" he says. toward 60-70% tannat as I gain more knowledge and control.” \"We have some of the best produce in the country on our doorstep Brown put it all to the test recently when he invited a group and we intend on showcasing it.\" of fellow winemakers, loyal customers and media to a 12-year vertical tasting of The Good Doctor’s Tonic from 2006 to 2018 at The accommodation comprises 30 guest suites with courtyard his 16ha vineyard at the base of the Willunga foothills, which he’s or city views, all with updated en-suite bathrooms. developed with noted viticulturist Richard Leask. The hotel will be open seven days a week with the kitchen and garden Big wines require big food flavours to go with them, and local courtyard open for lunch and dinner. See theluckyhotel.com.au chef Nigel Rich chose tannat-braised lamb shoulder with star anise and green cardamom, plus barbecue potatoes with onion butter as a match – though the perfect match for tannat wines is said to be chocolate brownies with maple bacon to go with the layers of chocolate and spiciness that arrive as the tannat mellows and ages. “I’m in no hurry to release these wines any earlier,” Brown adds. “I’ve now worked out both the vineyard and the winemaking techniques we need, which is why these wines are growing in elegance and refinement. I have a sense of being on the cutting edge of the evolution of a new wine that will grow in its acceptance.” TAMING THE BEAST AS a local general practitioner and anaesthetist, McLaren Vale vigneron Matt Brown reckons he’s found the right medicine when it comes to winemaking – especially if it involves lesser-known varieties in Australia such as carignan, montepulciano and especially tannat, the grape that underpins and defines his The Good Doctor’s Tonic. “It’s a beast to grow, extremely vigorous with big seeds and big bunches, and it’s a beast to make,” Brown says, a big wine with full throttle tannins and searing acidity. 14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW NZ TO HOST 2026 ICCWS skilled migrant wage rules. A working holiday scheme intended to double the intake is slated for October, and is expected to bring an NEW ZEALAND is set to host the 2026 International Cool Climate additional 12,000 working holidaymakers to NZ over the next year. Wine Symposium (ICCWS), with the New Zealand Society for Immigration Minister Michael Wood states, “These measures are Viticulture and Oenology (NZSVO)’s winning bid announced at about providing immediate relief to those businesses hardest hit the 2022 ICCWS in Ontario, Canada. This will be the third time by the global worker shortage”. Something that can’t come soon NZSVO has hosted the globally renowned symposium, the last enough for the wine industry. time being in 2006. A PROSECCO BY ANY OTHER NAME…? NZSVO chair, Jeff Sinnott, is thrilled with the news, “We are beyond excited to host a third ICCWS. New Zealand has grown AS part of the recent bilateral trade agreement with the European so much since we last hosted and this past experience puts us Union, New Zealand will recognize the Prosecco DOC trademark, in a unique position to create an immersive and engaging event.” a decision which is causing some headaches for Australian wineries exporting their own Proseccos to NZ. Within five years, The ICCWS gathers together an international array of winemakers, only Italian Prosecco from the delineated Prosecco region will viticulturists, scientists, trade and industry professionals and be able to be sold under that name in New Zealand. The annual presents the latest in industry research and innovation via Prosecco market from all sources in New Zealand is around workshops, discussions and tastings. With up to 500 delegates NZ$3.5M and continues to grow apace. It is the largest export expected, it’s a valuable opportunity for local and international market for Australian Prosecco, and Browns Family Wine Group delegates to share information and of course, wines. Philip Gregan, (BFWG) CEO Dean Carroll said they were surprised by the CEO of NZ Winegrowers, says, “It is quite the coup that the NZSVO decision, having felt confident that New Zealand would follow have secured another opportunity to host the ICCWS. It will be Australia in retaining the right to use Prosecco as the name of the such a pleasure to share the NZ wine story with our industry peers grape variety. Carroll observes, “It may be the fact New Zealand and reveal how far we’ve come since NZ last hosted the ICCWS doesn’t have a Prosecco industry which swayed their government’s 20 years ago.” position on it.” Carroll added that while BFWG did not for now expect any direct impact, strategies to manage the change would The 2026 ICCWS will be held at Christchurch’s new Te Pae be put in place immediately. BFWG currently export 15% of their Convention Centre, where the NZSVO plan to present a three-day Prosecco production to NZ and Carroll feels confident they will ‘Pure Innovation: Sustainable Innovation in Wine’ programme. find a solution, based on the strength of the Brown Brothers brand Sinnott says, “There are some very exciting research projects and in the New Zealand market, especially in the sparkling category, industry trials happening at the moment and we hope to bring them saying, “Our focus remains very much around the fact there is to light in four years’ time.” a huge body of evidence saying Prosecco is a grape variety.” Australian Grape and Wine’s director of strategy and international The NZSVO, a membership organization whose committee affairs, Damien Griffante, said the announcement was a blow to organises highly-regarded annual workshops on viticulture, Australian producers, commenting, “We are disappointed in the oenology and related technical and science fields, sees their decision as reported and are seeking clarification of the impacts winning bid as “an acclamation of previous efforts and a from the New Zealand government. The decision on Prosecco does confirmation of the world-wide interest in New Zealand wine.” The not alter Australia’s position in our own negotiations, to continue symposium will run from 25th to 28th January 2026. to strongly protect the legitimate rights of Australian producers to grow, produce and sell wines made from the Prosecco grape LAW CHANGE FOR VINEYARD WORKERS variety”. Watch this space. NEW ZEALAND’S borders have finally reopened in full, bringing a MARLBOROUGH AND NELSON FLOODS welcome influx of visitors. While their extended closure contributed significantly to reducing the spread and severity of Covid in NZ, the AT the time of press, a huge clean-up job is underway in the Nelson profound impact on the workforce remains ongoing. Businesses and Marlborough regions, after storms that respectively delivered across all sectors were affected - a 2020 survey found that 61% around 2m and 1m of rain within 24 hours, causing severe and of companies said border closures were having an adverse effect widespread flooding. Nelson, whose township suffered the worst on their ability to retain workers, a problem which continued to of the rainfall, had its vineyards emerge largely unscathed, while deepen. Agriculture was particularly hard hit, and from the start in Marlborough vineyards were deluged, with some experiencing the wine industry struggled to secure the hands-on labour needed floods that saw water nearly reach the tops of trellising posts. for harvest and seasonal vineyard work as both temporary workers Mercifully the free-draining soils meant this was a largely short-lived from the Pacific Islands and those on working holidays left for issue, and the timing means vines are largely unaffected, even if their home countries and were unable to return to NZ. These two vineyard crews now have slips and debris management to add to labour forces have long formed the backbone of the wine industry’s an already busy Spring task list. seasonal labour requirements, and as they dwindled in numbers, there has been intense pressure on the industry to find local pickers, pruners and harvest interns. This August, a temporary relaxation of immigration laws was announced, extending by six months the visa of those already in the country and relaxing the November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW DRAFTING THE PIWI LEAGUE THERE’S a new-ish term in the vinous The process has been sped up since (black: high mildew resistance), calandro lexicon. PIWI, which seems to have the turn of the millennium as scientific (black; high mildew resistance), felicia more etymological kinship with hi-fi (high developments resulting from analysis of (white variety of floral and citrus notes; fidelity), than wi-fi (wireless … fi …), PIWI the grapevine genome have been added medium to high mildew resistance). These (pronounced pee-wee) is an abbreviation into the mix. Grapevine breeding work at can save up to 70% of fungicidal treatments. of the German PilzWiderstandsfähig, Germany’s Julius Kühn-Institut helped to meaning fungus-resistant vines. PIWI grape identify a number of genes that confer The next development is stacking the varieties are argued to be the next frontier of resistances, so multiple ‘resistance loci’ exist increasing sustainability in the wine industry, PIWI vines are hybrid for each mildew, giving stronger resistance. and to adapting to climate change. vines. Some of our For example, the fruity calardis blanc, has favourite vinifera- medium-high resistance to powdery and One of the great weaknesses of high resistance to downy mildews, and can grapevines, as with many agricultural species grape varieties save up to 80% of fungal treatments. crops, is vulnerability to pests, diseases, (chardonnay, shiraz, and climatic hazards. For grapevines, sauvignon blanc et al.) Climate change has created additional key fungus diseases are downy mildew, breeding goals, including later ripening, powdery mildew, and grey rot/botrytis bunch are traditionally bred with as well as resistance for diseases that are rot. By breeding vines that are resistant to other grapevine species. currently less common. these ubiquitous fungus diseases, spraying regimes can be reduced quite dramatically. This is because the The tangible benefits? other grapevine species Hybrid technology is nothing new to PIWI vines are hybrid vines. Some of our agriculture, or indeed viticulture. In favourite vinifera-species grape varieties are more resistant to the 19th century, the European wine (chardonnay, shiraz, sauvignon blanc particular fungi than industry had to find a way to deal with et al.) are traditionally bred with other phylloxera, which was an accidental grapevine species. This is because the vinifera species. import from the USA during Victorian other grapevine species are more resistant horticultural exploration and importation. to particular fungi than vinifera species. resistance to downy and powdery mildews. American grapevines had evolved with This knowledge enabled researchers phylloxera – they were resistant to its The principle of grapevine breeding is to follow the resistance in the breeding predations; and the solution ended up to use high quality Vitis vinifera, but which material being used during the back- being grafting flavourful European vines might have low mildew resistance, and crossing process. (V. vinifera), onto hybridised rootstocks breed it with another closely related Vitis of phylloxera-resistant American vines vine species, that may have lesser fruit In the first generation of new varieties, just with V. vinifera (grafting directly onto quality, but does have, in our example, 1 ‘resistance locus’ for each mildew was solo American vines didn’t work, for wine high resistance to mildew. Repeated back- bred in. Varieties include phoenix, regent quality). Various hybrid rootstocks were crossings ensure that both the original created, with various resistances, not just traits (high quality) and the new traits to phylloxera, but to other agricultural (mildew resistance) are stable in the new issues too, including to the high lime vine variety. This process typically takes levels common in European vineyards, to decades to come into commercial being nematodes, to drought stress, to salinity. because they are bred traditionally. Spraying against various fungi and 16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions. other vine diseases in parts of Europe the creation of new varieties is not such Follow us and keep up to may typically involve spraying various ‘new’ work. From Germany, the black date with all our latest pesticides in up to a dozen passes through variety regent was an early hybrid. It is wine info, tastings and the vineyard in any growing season. very resistant to both mildews and has Sometimes more in damp seasons. The decent resistance to grey rot/botrytis bunch events on facebook, twitter PIWI hybrids dramatically reduce the need rot. The variety accounts for more than and instagram. for so many sprayings. This means less 1.5% of the total German vineyard area. It pesticide, as well as less tractor fuel, fewer would unlikely have succeeded if it didn’t Winestate Magazine CO2 emissions, and less soil compaction also taste well: wines are typically deeply- @WinestateEd from tractor passes, plus the saving in coloured, fullish-bodied, with smooth, time and labour. These are all strong plentiful tannins and soft cherry, plum and www.winestate.com.au sustainability wins. redcurrant fruits. The taste-ful benefits? In total, PIWI varieties bring the Germany There are several thousand vinifera plantings tally up to about 3% of the vine varieties, but our modern industry is vineyard area. Other popular ones include predicated on just a handful of the most cabernet blanc (a bit sauvignon blanc- popular varieties. But flavoursome life like), and, also white, solaris (perfumed exists beyond ‘core’ chardonnay, shiraz et and fruity). al. In the past 10 to 20 years, ‘rediscovered’ vinifera varieties have increasingly become About five years ago France’s national more visible and available: from well- institute for agricultural research (INRA) established, plentifully planted varieties, released to the market floreal (white, made more in tune for modern tastes, such with exotic fruit flavour), voltis (white, as verdejo, white Rioja, godello, all from perfumed), artaban (black, with juicy from Spain; to more esoteric ‘discoveries’ red fruits, modest tannins), and vidoc of niche, localised varieties, such as gros (black, robust), following nearly 20 years manseng and petit manseng from south- of research and development. These new west France. All these are solo vinifera. grape varieties have ‘stacked’ resistance This demonstrates consumers appreciate genes, which means greater resistance – innovating via new tastes and flavours, to both powdery and downy mildews. The so new flavours from new hybrid varieties frequency of fungicide use on them is cited might be a logical next step. Sure, there will as able to be reduced by up to 96%. be more grape variety names to investigate and favourites to learn, but we manage well Austria also has approved PIWI varieties, with hybrids of other fruits, including Pink among them the black roesler (berry Lady and Gala apples, boysenberries, ugli flavours) and white muscaris, (muscat-like). fruit; the list is long. Given the long lead times of traditional Glass of orion, or phoenix (both white), breeding, and its long history in Europe, anyone? November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY FANCY A CHANGE? FANCY a Chubby Ape? An intriguing ale nicely textured on the palate. The trend in Salta Province of northern Argentina. It has brewed with Queensland bananas and Australia is to make more textured wines so delightful floral aromatics. Moschofilero is Tasmanian walnuts. Or what about a glass we are slowly producing more wines from from the Greek Peloponnese region south- of California Wild Ale’s Blueberry Pancakes Garganega. Vermentino is another savoury west of Athens. It makes wines that have Pastry Sour Beer? Not to your taste? Then wine originating from Sardinia and Provence strong floral and musk aromas similar to maybe we can tempt you with a Coner 53’s in France. Finally, we have Friulano, when gewurztraminer. Both grape varieties are Lemon Meringue Pie Gin or a Daylesford treated seriously, it produces a textured drink early fresh styles and ideal for summer. Pinot Noir Barrel Aged Cider? There is and rich wine from Friuli Venezia Giulia. Try so much choice in the alcohol market it’s RiverBank Estate from the Swan in WA for Turning to red wines there is even more overwhelming and the steadfast, stalwart the former, and the wonderful Grazia blend choice. Gamay is not really an alternative category of wine is well and truly under the from Vinea Marson in Heathcote for the latter. grape variety, being the grape that makes cosh from competitors. Beaujolais. But Australian made wines Grüner Veltliner deserve a mention and are still hard to find. I’d encourage you to So, what can wine offer a jaded palate has been singlehandedly pushed into the discover this red fruit driven, ‘cab-mac’ (semi- that looks down a wine list and sees the limelight by Hahndorf Hill in the Adelaide carbonic-maceration) wine, especially if it is usual suspects - riesling, sauvignon blanc, given a touch of the pinot noir treatment with semillon, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot, Let us consider some supporting oak. Try Lyons Will from the shiraz and cabernet sauvignon? Well, Macedon Ranges. there is plenty to try if you only scratch the some alterative white surface and get out of the rut of ordering Before we return to Italy for more varieties that shiraz or chardonnay. wines that are available, there are two emerging grapes from the Iberian Peninsula. Touriga Nacional is famous Let us consider some alterative white either grown in Australia for leading the quintet of grapes that make wines that are available, either grown in Port in the Douro Valley of Portugal but is Australia or imported from overseas. Italy or imported from also capable of making great table wine. It has literally hundreds to choose from. Arneis produces deeply coloured robust wines with from Piemonte is a wine with fresh acidity overseas. Italy has black fruits and some floral aromas. Stanton & and peachy, pear, nutty almond aromas, Killeen use it in their Iberian Blend called The and it can be matured in oak. You will find literally hundreds to Prince. Graciano is from Spain’s Rioja region it grown in most Australian regions. Fiano and is also known as Morrastel in France. is so popular that it could be about to jump choose from. It produces light to medium bodied wine, out of the alternative grape variety category highly coloured, with fragrant cherry aromas. to join the mainstream grape varieties. It Hills. It is Austria’s famous white grape Try Mount Majura from the Canberra District. comes from Campania in southern Italy variety, and the wine can have viognier- and Fiano di Avellino DOCG is the major like pungency and structure with aromas Sagrantino is the famous tannic red wine region of production, which lies in-land running from mineral, wet stone, floral to of Umbria. Andrew Peace in the Swan Hill from Napoli. The wine has aromas of citrus, orange peel and stone fruit depending on region of Victoria has the largest plantings stone fruit, beeswax and that typical Italian when it is picked. of sagrantino in Australia and produces a almond-meal character. On the palate they rich blackberry and plum fruit driven wine range from light and acid driven to fleshy There are a couple of interesting and with earthy and cedar notes which is suitably and somewhat intense. Some producer’s aromatically driven wines from overseas that tannic on the palate. They also have the oak mature their wines. Moving north, have yet to be commercialised in Australia. Austrian red grape zweigelt planted which Garganega is the grape behind Soave from Torrontés from Argentina is a cross between makes a fruit driven wine full of cherries and the Veneto region. It makes what you would Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica (a marzipan. Hahndorf Hill also make zweigelt describe as a non-aromatic wine but can be local name for the Mission grape of California) and their Austrian fetish continues with and the best examples come from the them planting and making a blaufränkisch. 18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

It makes a light, juicy style of red wine. Uniquely Marlborough based winery Hans Herzog Yorke Estate have recently released New Zealand’s Peninsula first blaufränkisch. Cellar Door and Function Centre Brian Freeman in the Hilltops region of Open 7 days 10am-5pm NSW uses corvina and rondinella grapes and partially dries a portion of them in a Maitland, South Australia prune dehydrator before adding them back Phone (08) 8834 1258 to the remainder in what is an Australian version of the Ripasso process. This is barleystackswines.com the technique used to produce a style of Valpolicella in Veneto. Freeman Secco Rondinella Corvina is a rich wine with plums, spices and savoury tannins. More conventional winemaking is used in producing montepulciano and nero d’avola. These two southern Italian reds are fruit driven medium to full bodied wines. They both do well in warmer climates so are at home in Australia. We will end our journey into alterative varieties on two more Italian reds that in their birthplace can produce top quality wines. Barbera stands second in importance behind nebbiolo in Piemonte. Barbera d’Asti DOCG and Barbera d’Alba DOC are the two major regions. Carlo Corino brought cuttings out from Italy in the 1970’s and planted them when he was winemaker at Montrose in Mudgee. Andrew Margan took cuttings of these and planted them at his Ceres Hill vineyard in 1998. His Margan Barbera has become their most popular red wine in the retail market, and they continuously sell out. The grape is renowned for its high acidity which is useful in hot regions as it can retain its freshness. Tannins levels are low and flavours include cherry, strawberries and herbs. Done! Twenty wine alternatives to avoid drinking carrot infused gin churned in a milk vat and aged in the spleen of a grass-fed bison (I’ve made that one up). November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING SAN FRANCISCO ROLLS OUT THE WELCOME MAT - WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN CALIFORNIA'S BOHEMIAN CENTRAL THE majority of Australians flying to the Ferry Building, a farmer's market and a takes its cue from the Chinese agrarian US make landfall in Los Angeles. But swathe of waterfront restaurants. calendar and rotates through the year. leading airlines competing on the trans- The seasonal and signature drinks veer Pacific route have ramped up the number Every foodie knows that San Francisco from the Titan, a mix of Scotch whisky, of flights to San Francisco. United Airlines is overweeningly proud of its culinary Barolo chinato and toasted brown rice now flies daily from Sydney and three reputation - from Michelin-starred temples powder, to Start of Spring with vodka times a week from Melbourne. Qantas to some of the best Asian holes-in-the- and fresh peas. resumed flights to the Foggy City in wall you will find anywhere. But Frisco's October this year and United added three bars, breweries and cocktail hangouts Fort Point Beer is rated as one of San flights a week from Brisbane. are also a major cut above. Francisco's best breweries. Located on the Embarcadero side of the Ferry San Francisco has certainly geared up San Francisco is also Building, there's plenty of outdoor tables for an increase in arrivals from Australia to take in the panoramic views. The hot and elsewhere. The third stage of its new relatively compact, dogs with all the fixings here are as much US$2.4 billion Harvey Milk Terminal 1 of a drawcard as the beers - from the KSA opened last year and the final extension encompassing its famed (a Kolsch-style ale), through American will be completed in early 2024. Packed IPA and nitrogen-charged summer porter. with shops and Bay Area restaurants, 7x7 square mile core. You the new facility is a breath of fresh air I love Nob Hill and have stayed in the compared to frenetic LA, which is the might return from a trip iconic Huntington Hotel several times, third busiest airport in the world. which re-opened at the beginning of feeling much fitter as well October. On the lower part of the high- San Francisco is also relatively class enclave, you'll find Members Only compact, encompassing its famed 7x 7 after hiking the city's hilly & Finders Keepers. A 2-in-1 drinking den square mile core. You might return from a that opened earlier this year, everyone trip feeling much fitter as well after hiking streets and the exercise receives a warm welcome in spite of the city's hilly streets and the exercise the exclusive name. Harking back to the also helps to work up more of an appetite also helps to work up more golden era of supper clubs, you can order for San Francisco's top-class dining and parmesan truffle fries or pork belly bao to bar scenes. of an appetite for San accompany drinks such as Larkin Breeze- a mix of gin, cachaca, rhubarb, vanilla Even if you have left your heart in San Francisco's top-class dining and fennel, or Don't Post This- a blend of Francisco before, it's always a treat to brandy, baiju, citrus and smoked cherry. re-visit the major sights - the Golden and bar scenes. Gate Bridge, Fisherman's Wharf, Union The heritage Comstock Saloon in Square, the Botanical Gardens, Nob Hill, Mister Jiu's, the Michelin-starred Chinatown nods towards San Francisco's Alamo Square for the iconic Edwardian Chinatown favourite, runs the Moongate early days as a rough-edged town on the and Victorian houses, Alcatraz and the Lounge upstairs. Oozing lavish mid- edge of the goldfields. The 100-year-old Embarcadero, which snakes along the century elegance, the high-back velvet mahogany bar and ceramic blue and city's eastern shoreline and houses the banquettes are illuminated with lotus- white tiled floor look straight out of a shaped brass lamps. The cocktail menu 20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

movie set. But drinks like Pisco Punch, Comer specialises in authentic Chilango CONNECT ON SOCIAL not rotgut whiskey, are the preferred cooking from slow-cooked stews such as WITH WINESTATE tipples these days. tinga, pulled chicken in tomato, onion and chipotle sauce. www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine Whitechapel in the Tenderloin district twitter.com/winestateed boasts one of the largest gin selections Seafood is centre stage in many San in the world. The decor echoes Victorian Francisco eateries from the Swan Oyster www.instagram.com/winestate/ gin palaces and a London Tube station. Depot on Nob Hill to Waterbar on the The menu has British-Indian and Dutch- Embarcadero. If you are feeling hungry Follow us and keep up to date with all our Indonesian colonial overtones, but they and flush, the Shellfish Indulgence Platter latest wine info, tastings, competitions and also serve a mean fish and chips with here is bulging with blue crab, lobster, events on facebook, twitter and instagram. mashed minted peas. tiger prawns, oysters and ceviche. Angler San Francisco, the brainchild of Joshua San Francisco boasts five Michelin Skenes of Michelin--starred Saison two-star restaurants - Lazy Bear, Saison, fame, has a raw bar, specials centered Californios, Acquerello and Birdsong. But on Monterey abalone and scorpion fish you shouldn't miss Sam Wo in Chinatown, roasted over a live fire. The wine list and which bills itself as the first Chinese chic, lodge-style decor complete an restaurant in the US. Fisherman's Wharf experience that takes a lot of beating is a major tourist attraction but many of its waterfront restaurants are exceptionally good for local delicacies such as cioppino, the Italian American version of bouillabaisse, and clam chowder served in sourdough bread \"bowls\". Another culinary institution is the House of Prime Rib. Founded in 1949, it’s a landmark destination for local and visiting meat lovers for its 21-day aged prime rib. Newer on the scene is Osito, a live fire newbie with two nightly sittings and a long communal table. Empress by Boon opened in June by Michelin-starred chef, Ho Chee Boon, and offers contemporary Chinese cuisine. The prix fixe menu is a steal at US$98. Californios is a must for aficionados of Mexican food, but if you don't want to pay Michelin-starred prices, El Buen November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 21

JIMMY REVISITED 22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

JITMHME Y WTRAOTPSHONY DAN TRAUCKI KNOWLEDGEABLE wine drinkers and eminent wine producers in Australia. two-year-old red wine” at the Royal will be aware of the Jimmy Watson The only other winery to win the trophy Melbourne Wine Awards. Trophy for red wine, as it is widely sequentially was Margaret River’s, Cape acknowledged as one of the most Mentelle, whose Cabernet Sauvignon So how did this story come about? prestigious wine trophies in Australia. won it in 1983 and 1984. Incidentally, Well, it started with a bloke called, It is also the most contentious because Wolf Blass Wines won the trophy a fourth Jimmy Watson, who in 1935 bought until 2016 it was the trophy for the time in 1999 with their 1998 Black Label a somewhat rundown wine bar in “Best one-year-old red wine” at the Cabernet Sauvignon blend. the famous Lygon Street, Carlton Royal Melbourne Wine Awards which in Melbourne and proceeded to is judged in mid-October each year. In 2016, the one and only change to the stock it with the sort of wines that Many winemakers argued that some trophy rules was made so as to make the he liked to drink. In a time when of the entries were not in bottle yet and award a bit more meaningful. From 2016 most Australian wine consumed was therefore it could not be guaranteed onward the trophy is for the “Best one- or fortified (Brandy, Port, Sherry, Muscat, that the final wine released to the Madeira and Tokay) he sourced dry public was exactly the same as the white wines, young red wines and top- wine which had won the trophy. In shelf fortifieds. To source these wines, fact, in the early 1980s there was a he travelled around the wine regions, scandal when one winner allegedly did a bought barrels of the wines he had second bottling and tried to pass it off as selected and then he and his wife bottled the trophy winning wine. them back in Carlton. The routine was that he filled the bottles and Mrs Watson did the Along the way only one winemaker has corking. Many of the very best Australian won the trophy three times in a row, Wolf “table” wines of the day were available in Blass, who was always a great proponent Jimmy’s wine bar, which resulted in the bar of the trophy. He won it in 1974, 1975 becoming extremely popular and busy. and 1976 with his Wolf Blass Black Label His motto, “if you like it, it is good wine,” blend. This caused a sensation and certainly worked as his establishment helped to well and truly establish Wolf thrived and became an iconic watering hole Blass Wines as one of the most popular for Melbourne’s wine aficionados. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 23

Jimmy Watson died suddenly in 1962 and as a tribute his many friends banded together and created the Jimmy Watson Trophy for one-year-old dry reds in the Royal Melbourne Wine Show, honouring the style of wines that Jimmy preferred and championed. That year the very first trophy was won by the Stonyfell Metala Shiraz Cabernet 1961. Highlights along the way apart from the multiple winners already mentioned, have been Penfolds Grange winning the trophy in 1966 and 1968, the first, out of two so far pinot noir to win being the Yabbie Lakes Vineyard Bloc One Pinot Noir in 2013 and the one and only grenache to win so far being the Turkey Flat Vineyards in 2017. With all other winners being either shiraz, cabernet sauvignon or blends including one or the other of these two varieties, such as the Bleasdale Shiraz Grenache Mataro blend in 2019. Due to Covid-19 there was no trophy awarded in 2020 as the wine show was not held. Cabernet Sauvignon leads the way with twenty-seven wins so far, followed by shiraz with seventeen and the other fifteen winners are made up of various blends, except for the two pinots (2013 and 2015) and one grenache (2017). Since the 2007 winner all the winning wines have all been sealed under screwcap. With only the 1990 winner, the 1989 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Blend being bottled in a Magnum. Winestate Magazine has recently conducted the most comprehensive tasting ever conducted of Jimmy Watson Trophy (JWT) winners with 44 out of the 59 winners since inception being tasted (judged) – 24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

three-quarters of the winners to date. This event was conducted using the wines that I had collected over a period of 35 years and was designed to mark the twentieth anniversary of the previous most in-depth JWT tasting also conducted by Winestate Magazine in 2002. That time twenty-eight out of the then forty winners to date (two- thirds of all the then winners) were tasted by a panel consisting of Wolf Blass AM, JWT winning winemaker Peter Bissell, Peter Simic (publisher of Winestate Magazine) and myself, freelance wine journalist. In the 2002 tasting, seven of the ten 1970s winners were judged with two being determined to be “over the hill” while the Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon being the top scorer with 4½ stars. From the 1980s all ten wines were judged, only one wine from very early in the decade was judged to be over the hill. There were four that scored 3-stars with the top scorer of the decade being the Cape Mentelle Vineyards 1983 Cabernet Sauvignon receiving 5-stars. In the 1990s all ten wines were judged, plus the 2000 winner, of which none were over the hill, with five wines scoring 4½ stars in a very consistent result. Only one wine was rated as 3½ stars, with all the others scoring 4-stars. Thus in 2002 only three of the twenty- eight vintages of Jimmy Watson Trophy winning wines were judged as “past it” or over the hill, which was in effect a ringing endorsement for the Trophy. This time, twenty years later the report card looked like this: November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 25

1970s: The same eight out of the 10 1980s: All ten wines were judged, 1990s: Again, all ten wines were wines were judged, with one being corked with one being corked and one over the tasted with one on the way out and another and two being deemed over the hill. This hill. The remaining eight scored either a one getting close to drifting “over the hill” time the top scoring wine was the 1971 bronze or silver medal, with the 1989 Peter whilst the rest were in the bronze/silver Seppelts Cabernet Sauvignon Dorrien Lehmann Barossa Stonewell Blend being category with both the 1999 Punters Corner TT 147/71, which at 51-years-old was in the top-rated wine. It may have had a bit Spartacus Coonawarra Shiraz (2nd bottle, amazing condition and almost scored a of a helping hand by virtue of having been as the first was corked) and The Katnook gold medal. The judges were amazed at the bottled in a magnum (the only JWT to be 1997 Coonawarra Shiraz being lively overall vibrancy and balance of the wines botted in a magnum), as wines mature more enough to be worthy of gold medals today. in this bracket considering that they were slowly in the bigger bottle. The wine styles between 40-50-years-old. were more diverse in this bracket ranging Since the turn of the century, it has from blockbusters through to mid-weight become considerably challenging to wines. This created bigger differences in acquire (buy on release) the winning wines the judge’s opinions, yet they agreed that especially from Western Australia so that most of the wines made for very pleasant most of the gaps since vintage 2000 were drinking now, with question marks over the the Western Australian winners. ability of some to age further. 26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

2000s: Nine out of ten wines were 2010s: Ironically, the most recent In conclusion, and despite the sceptics decrying over the years that at one-year- available with only one Western Australian winners were the most difficult to source old it isn’t really possible to judge the true wine not being available. Seven out with half of them missing. The ones tasted quality and longevity of the winning wines of the nine wines scored gold medals were all excellent with the most recent – it appears to this panel that the wine with the other two (both earlier wines) winner, the superb Fallen Giants Grampians judges have, over the last sixty years (for scoring silver medals. The highest rated Shiraz 2019 being rated the highest. All the the most part) got it pretty right. Only two wines were the Pepper Tree Coonawarra wines tasted were worthy of winning the out of the eight, 40-plus-year-old winners Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 and Trophy and the judges suggested that if you being “over the hill”, while only one of the the Scarpantoni McLaren Vale Cabernet can get your hands on any of these wines, 30-40-year-old winners having “run out of Sauvignon 2006. There was only one blend do so, as they make for great drinking now steam”. Therefore, the score for the “over in this decade’s winners, the rest either and into to the near future. thirties” tasted is 15/18 going strong and Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz. The blend 3/18 past retirement age. That is a pretty being the 2001 Rosemount “Traditional” The style of the recent wines is more good batting average in anybody’s terms. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit contemporary/mid-weight than many Thereby proving the validity of the Jimmy Verdot, the most commercial and least of the blockbuster styles of the past Watson Trophy. expensive winner in ages, yet worthy of a and therefore some of the judges high silver medal 21 years later! suggested that the more recent winners We, the panel, take our hats off to the will probably not have the amazing countless judges involved in selecting the longevity that the earlier winners have. Jimmy Watson Trophy winning wines over This is understandable and in keeping the last sixty years; they have done an with the fact that most wine these days outstanding job of selecting wines that have is consumed very shortly after purchase. stood the test of time. Jimmy would have been very proud indeed! Pages 22 to 23: Panel of judges, left to right, Peter Bissell, Wolf Blass, Peter Simic and Dan Traucki; portrait painting of Jimmy Watson. Page 24 top to bottom: Line up of wines ready for tasting at Winestate, cover of Winestate magazine with the Jimmy Watson tasting in 2002, exterior of the Jimmy Watson Wine Bar Melbourne 1935, judge Peter Bissell and judge Dan Traucki. Page 25 top to bottom: Judge Wolf Blass, judge Peter Simic, page from Winestate magazine 2002 Wolf Blass judging Jimmy Watson wines, Jimmy Watson Trophy Winner from 1975 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, and interior of Jimmy Watson Wine Bar Melbourne 1935. Opposite page: 1971 Seppelt Cabernet Sauvignon Dorrien, 1989 Peter Lehmann Barossa Stonewell Blend, 1999 Punters Corner Spartacus Coonawarra Shiraz, line up of wines judged at Winestate and cover/poster of 1993 Jimmy Watson winner. This page: 2006 Scarpantoni McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 Fallen Giants Grampians Shiraz and the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 27

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WOLF OF THE WINE INDUSTRY THE INCREDIBLE LEGACY AND LEGEND THAT IS WOLF BLASS NIGEL HOPKINS development, wine education, wine and health, and creating a global wine industry profile for Australia. WHEN you’ve won almost every award your industry can give you, been honored by two national governments, add in a But the opportunities it presented were slow to be recognised couple of honorary doctorates for services to that industry and by the wine industry as a whole until the success of one of its the community and achieved a professional reputation possibly major projects, an inaugural International Wine and Health unmatched by your peers - and you’re less than two years short Conference held in Sydney in 1996, which attracted a host of 90 - you could be excused for saying, in whatever the German of national and international epidemiologists and research words might be, thanks guys, I’ve had enough – I’m out of here. scientists. But that’s not Wolf Blass. “The health conference at the time was one of the biggest He could easily have just gone on going to the races to critical issues the wine industry was facing in 1996,” Blass says. watch his racehorses win, shooting competitively with his .22 “It was the biggest thing we ever did. We flew in people from pistol most Saturday mornings, and waited for the next footy Holland, America, England, research scientists and so on. It season to watch if his beloved Norwood can win the SANFL was one of the biggest projects we’ve done.” premiership again. He’ll do all of that, and he remains an international ambassador In 1998 the Foundation implemented a wine lecturer exchange for Wolf Blass Wines, which has won more than 10,000 national between Charles Sturt University and Blass’s former alma and international wine show awards since he started the mater Wurzburg Wine University in Germany, which continued company in 1966 – then named Bilyara, or Eaglehawk. annually until scuppered for the time being by COVID. Then in But six decades after the young German winemaker migrated 2000 an event was started by pioneer Canberra winemaker Ken to Australia, at the behest of Ian Hickinbotham who’d recruited Helm that lifted the profile of both the Foundation as sponsor him to make sparkling wines at Kaiser Stuhl (and give a wakeup and what was probably Blass’s favourite grape variety, the to Orlando’s then market leader Barossa Pearl), he’s no longer International Riesling Challenge. focussed on the industry that made him famous and wealthy. At 88, Blass knows he may not live for ever – though that’s Alongside it, Wolf Blass, who was chairman of judges for the not entirely certain, given his continued energy, but he is first six years, made a separate, personal Wolf Blass Award determined that his legacy will live on through the Wolf Blass that recognised major contributions to the development and Foundation that he founded in 1994 on his 60th birthday with promotion of riesling in Australia. It has since recognised an initial $1 million donation. riesling masters such as Peter Lehmann, Brian Barry, Brian “This country has been very good to me... and I’ve been good Croser, Jeffrey Grosset and John Vickery. This year it went to for the country,” Blass said later, determined that his Foundation the Barry family at Jim Barry Wines. could be a way of giving something back. Its goal was to assist the wine industry to achieve excellence “Being German, I believe in riesling,” Blass said at the time. in winemaking, viticulture and marketing, and Blass saw it “Australia needs a benchmark white wine, but unfortunately underpinning work in viticultural and oenological research and the Australian wine industry has not seen fit to promote one of its best products.” November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 29

Another major, and expensive, project was completion of an oral history of Australia’s wine industry, done in conjunction with the National Wine Centre and begun in 2000. In 2007 noted wine writer Max Allen was commissioned to write a book, The History of Australian Wine, based on the interviews with wine industry pioneers and the key characters who’d built Australia’s wine and grape growing industry. The book was released in 2012 in conjunction with the Foundation, the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia, Yalumba Wines and Treasury Wine Estates. Blass’s Foundation worked successfully behind the scenes when it funded the Wine Federation of Australia’s bid to get a $50 million GST refund over five years from the Federal Government, working in conjunction with Liberal Senator Anne Ruston. But it wasn’t until 2018 that Blass saw the culmination of a long-held dream, the opening of a wine museum to display his enormous collection of wine memorabilia. It was his late wife Shirley Nyberg-Blass who suggested it be located in Hahndorf, appropriate due to Wolf’s German heritage. Shirley would play a critical role not only in discovering the site, a former bank building, but also in supervising its modern extension and redevelopment. The property included a tiny, original stone schoolroom in need of major repair – now repurposed as a demonstration cooperage, and a light and airy wine bar and tasting area was built around it, leading to an outdoor terrace. This is also home to a café serving copious platters and pizzas, simple and delicious fare and one of the more civilised and peaceful corners of the Hahndorf tourist complex. Page 28: Wolf Blass enjoying a glass of wine. This page top to bottom: Adelaide Hills Wine Bar and Wolf Blass Wine Muesum, Hahndorf, interiors of the Adelaide Hills Wine Bar. Opposite page top to bottom: A typical spread in the cafe (platters are a specialty), interior of the Adelaide Hills Wine Bar and Cafe. 30 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

WOLF BLASS FOUNDATION INC. – HONORARY TRUSTEES “This country has been very Wolf Blass AM, BVK 1994 – Present good to me... and I’ve been Paul Clancy OAM 2004 – 2018 good for the country,” Blass Stephen Millar AM 2008 – 2018 said later, determined that his Peter Perrin 2014 – 2021 Foundation could be a way of David Robinson 2011 – Present Brian Walsh 2014 – Present giving something back. Dale Ryan 2015 – Present Harry Patsias 2020 – Present John Ashcroft 2020 – Present HONORARY LIFE MEMBERS Paul Clancy OAM 2018 – Present Stephen Millar AM 2018 – Present Peter Perrin 2021 – Present SENATORS Shirley Nyberg-Blass* 2018 – 2020 *Deceased November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 31

“I had the privilege to be A key feature is the 7m long Wolfie’s Horse Bar with a massive here at the right time, when swag of silver trophies testament to Blass’s love of horse we could turn Australia around racing and, not surprisingly, an excellent wine list. He never from being a beer drinking managed to win the Melbourne Cup, but he did the next best nation,” Blass says. “I’m very thing and bought the first Cup ever presented in 1865, which satisfied personally that I’m is on display nearby. giving something back after all that Australia has given Close by, too, is an ornate case celebrating his four Jimmy me. I’ve achieved everything Watson wins, still the only winemaker to win three in a row from that a person can achieve 1974-6 – with another in 1999, just to show he was still on top professionally and now I’m of his game. just going on enjoying life in the hope the industry will get Further towards the front of the building, is the main museum its act together and collectively with all of Wolf Blass’s memorabilia, from 70 massive scrapbooks of newspaper cuttings and documents to ceremonial gowns and move forward.” display cases documenting his whole career. It would be easy for a sceptical visitor to say, well, it’s all just about Wolf. Of course it is. Remember, this is the supreme marketer, probably the best the Australian wine industry ever had. Famous for his bow ties, the Yellow Rolls Royce that got wrapped around a telegraph pole, who saw his wine company grow from a simple shed to an international behemoth. When you look closely, though, you see that it is also a story of the Australian wine industry, such has been his influence across so many companies, the development of wine styles, the way he has nurtured the industry and helped define its future here and internationally. If it’s all about Wolf - and for him it is all about Wolf the man, not the extrovert marketer, not the brand - that’s exactly as it should be. This page top: Trustees and life members (from left): Peter Perrin (Life Member), David Robinson (Trustee), Dale Ryan (Trustee), Meredith Cameron (minute take), Harry Patsias (Trustee), Wolf Blass AM BVK (Chairman), John Ashcroft (Trustee), Paul Clancy OAM (Life Member), Stephen MillarOAM (Life Member), Brian Walsh (Trustee), James Butcher (General Manager). 32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

“I had the privilege to be here at the right time, when we could WOLF’S PERSONAL SELECTION turn Australia around from being a beer drinking nation,” Blass OF HIS TOP RECOGNITIONS AND says. “I’m very satisfied personally that I’m giving something back after all that Australia has given me. I’ve achieved AWARDS: everything that a person can achieve professionally and now I’m just going on enjoying life in the hope the industry will get Personal and family: its act together and collectively move forward.” - My late wife Shirley Nyberg-Blass, for her invaluable support in both business life and personally. The Blass legacy is now secure. His Foundation, through Blass’s astute investments, is now worth $11 million and has Member of the Order of Australia (2001): many more projects under way. - “For service to the development of the Australian wine industry, particularly as an export industry, and to the promotion of “I’d like the legacy of Wolf Blass to continue forever,” he says. excellence in winemaking, viticulture, marketing and research.” “I’ll continue pumping money into it during my lifetime, I have a very strong team around me that will be replaced and renewed Industry – National: as necessary, there are trustees in place, so there will be no - My first Jimmy Watson Trophy (1974). problems about its continuing.” - Maurice O’Shea Award (2000) - in recognition of the incredible service and contribution people or organisations have made Well, that’s definitely something to raise a glass to. to position Australia as a world leader in winemaking, cultivation, innovation and technology. Industry – International: - Acclaimed as International Winemaker of the Year in 1992 and awarded the Robert Mondavi Trophy at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. I received this highly honoured award three times. Football: - The Norwood Football Club (of which I’m the Number One Ticket holder) winning the 2022 SANFL Championship Trophy by one point and my close association with former club presidents Nerio Ferraro, Joe Tripodi, Denis Brion and current president Paul Di Iulio. Horse Racing: - My first Group One winner, Grooming, winning the Brisbane Cup Academic: - Honorary Doctorate of Applied Science from Charles Sturt University, NSW (1996) for services to the wine industry. (In 2014 Wolf would also receive an Honorary Doctorate from the University of South Australia for his continuing contribution to the community). This page top to bottom: Len Evans at the Wolf Blass foundation, Wolf's Horse Bar, Wolf and Shirley Blass. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 33

WINSOR DOBBIN The building highlights timbers and stone from the property, and the facility has a stunning outlook over both Bangor Vineyard and BANGOR Vineyard may be a relative newcomer on the Blackman Bay. Tasmanian premium wine scene, but the property has a long and fascinating history. “Tasmania offers some of the best wine and food tourism experiences in the world and our continued development of Bangor The Tasman Peninsula vineyard - around 45 minutes from Hobart Vineyard Shed reflects our optimism for the future of wine, tourism, - was first planted with vines in 2010, produced its first wines in and hospitality in our beautiful island state,” says Matt Dunbabin. 2014 and has quickly gained recognition for its sparkling wines, pinot noirs, chardonnays, and pinots gris, made in a range of styles. The property has been farmed since the 1830s - it once supplied beef to the Port Arthur Settlement. The vineyard is planted on a historic 6,000-hectare property that is home to a sheep farm and forests that boast an impressive variety of It has over 5,100 hectares of native forests and wetlands, 35 Tasmanian plants, birds and mammals, including a large population kilometres of coastline and 2,100 hectares of private nature of tumour-free Tasmanian devils. conservation reserve. Owners Matt and Vanessa Dunbabin use some of their wine Bangor is carbon positive and uses solar power. “We store profits to help protect and preserve the pristine environment and significantly more carbon every year than we emit; 1,500 tonnes have a major sustainability focus. more,” says Matt. Their cellar door overlooking the water at Dunalley is a major “We recently conducted a detailed carbon accounting across tourist attraction, open seven days for tastings and lunches. Guests not only the wine business, but our entire property. can feast on oysters grown in the local waters and on lamb and wallaby from the family property. Zero food miles. “We are always thinking about our environmental impact and how we can make positive changes.” The Bangor Vineyard Shed has a dedicated wine tasting bar, private wine tasting room, and function spaces, along with a mini The vineyard is one of the most southerly in Tasmania, with the gourmet and souvenir store, and children's playground with sand pit. initial four hectares planted with pinot noir, pinot gris and chardonnay. There have been recent additional plantings - but no new varieties. 34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

BUILDING ON A LEGACY Bangor Vineyard might be new on the wine scene, but they are a vineyard with a serious history. Well-drained clay loam soil over ancient dolerite rock, along with engage with the local indigenous people. They sailed north before a gentle northerly aspect, provides a key quality building block heading to New Zealand. and the maritime influence means that frost is not an issue, unlike in other parts of Tasmania. Bangor's history, of course, extends many thousands of years back, with the palawa people of lutruwita part of the oldest “At a latitude of 42˚53' south, Bangor's vineyard is one of the most continuing culture in the world. southerly in Tasmania, and the world,” says Dunbabin. “This makes it a true cool-climate site, and we carefully manage our vineyard Six generations of Dunbabins, dating back to 1830, have to produce premium quality fruit. farmed in this region, starting with convict John Dunbabin, who was deported from Britain after being found guilty of “Rather than planting a range of different varieties, we have made horse stealing. a conscious decision to concentrate on the grapes that best fit our terroir. We get a long, slow ripening period here, good intensity of The farm - owned by the family since 1890 - was once the fruit flavours and an excellent level of natural acidity. site of three whaling stations. Matt and Vanessa are the current custodians, along with their three children. “We didn’t know a whole lot at the start, but each year we learn more about our site, and what it needs to thrive.” While the Dunbabin family still runs sheep and cattle, the focus now is very much on the cool-climate Bangor wines, which are Bangor has a fascinating history. It was on the northern shores vinified by rising star in New Zealand-born Liam McElhinney of the farm that Dutch explorer Abel Tasman sent crew members and his team at Tasmanian Vintners. to plant the Dutch flag 380 years ago. “We are involved throughout the process and delighted with the The northern shoreline today looks almost identical as it did when wines that are being produced by Liam and his team,” says Matt. Tasman and his men laid anchor in 1642 (there is a small memorial “We may be relative newcomers to the wine industry, but we have set back from the beach). learnt a lot along the way, and we have some very good guides.” Members of the crew searched for fresh water and edible plants To mark the links with Tasman, the vineyard’s first flagship but found little of either and while they saw smoke they did not wine was the 2014 Abel Tasman Pinot Noir. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 35

Rather than planting a range of different varieties, we have made a conscious decision to concentrate on the grapes that best fit our terroir. We get a long, slow ripening period here, good intensity of fruit flavours and an excellent level of natural acidity. 36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

Today there are three pinots in the range, the entry-level Captain THE BANGER VINEYARD SHED is one of several gourmet Spotswood, the Abel Tasman, and the Reserve, along with the attractions in the region, many of them members of the fledgling award-winning Maria rosé. Tasman Wine and Spirits tourist trail. The reserve pinot is made only in outstanding vintages and Other wineries in the Tasman Peninsula region include exceptional small parcels are sometimes used to produce Bream Creek (with a cellar door on the way), Cape Bernier individual vineyard wines. “We do little runs - like a barrel- and Sugarloaf Ridge. aged pinot gris that has proved popular but is made in tiny quantities,” says Matt. Spirits producers McHenry Distillers, Hellfire Bluff, Impression Bay Distillery and Nonesuch all welcome visitors, as do Blue Bangor Vineyard Shed, 20 Blackman Bay Road, Dunalley, 7177, Lagoon Oysters. Tasmania. www.bangorshed.com.au Eating options other than the Bangor Shed include The Cannery at Dunalley and Van Bone at Marion Bay. “The entire region is a fabulous place for food lovers,” says Matt Dunbabin. “A vast majority of the produce we use in our restaurant comes from farms and waterways within a few kilometres. We love the paddock-to-plate ethos.” Think dishes like Local Tongola Farm curdy, Burnside extra virgin olive oil, creamed honey, fennel crunch and house-made lavosh; or perhaps glazed Bangor lamb ribs, whipped feta, harissa jam and hazelnut dukkah. For those who want to arrive in style, Par Avion can also operate scenic helicopter flights directly to Bangor Shed, with a leisurely lunch included. www.tasmanwinespiritstrail.com Previous pages: Wine and cheese with a view at Bangor Vineyard. Opposite page left to right top to bottom: Owners Matt and Vanessa Dunbabin, exterior of the Bangor Vineyard Shed, interior of Bangor Vineyard Shed, a friendly wombat in the vineyard, Vanessa serving wine in the cellar door, aerial shot of the vineyard and Bangor Vineyard Shed. This page top to bottom: Vanessa and Matt in the vineyard, Bangor Reserve 2019 Chardonnay, bottle of Bangor Jimmy's Hill Barrel Aged 2020 Pinot Gris. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 37

THE POWER OF PROSECCO 38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

Prosecco continues to ride the crest of a sales boom wave, but producers are keen to point out there are more styles on offer than entry level cheap-and- cheerful bubbles. Winsor Dobbin visits the region to discover more. WINSOR DOBBIN JUST 25 years ago Prosecco was virtually unknown outside Italy but There is much more to Prosecco than DOC, as producers of today the wine world loves Prosecco DOC, the entry level sparkling higher-quality DOCG wines, and the owners of labels selling wine that put the Italian region on the global map. It was the party Rive (from steep top-quality sites in named locations) and drink - often used in cocktails like bellinis, spritzes and mimosas - Cartizze (from one top quality 108-hectare sub-region with that became the world’s favourite affordable sparkling wine. older vines) styles, as well as the makers of the cloudy bottle re-fermented wines that have been aged on lees (sur Ievieti), What was once a dirt-poor rural region became wealthy because traditionally known as col fondo, are all keen to point out. of the popularity of its wines. A staggering 85% of Prosecco DOCG wines are exported. The Prosecco DOC consortium reported a 25% increase in The Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG region of sales in 2021, with a total of 627.5 million bottles sold around the Veneto is where the finest wines of the Prosecco region the world. Production DOCG wines, or posh prosecco, are only are to be found – and the vineyards here are among the most around 16% of that volume. expensive in the world. While the bulk of Prosecco DOC is grown on low-lying plains The name Prosecco is derived from a village near Trieste, but the in an extended area covering 23,300 hectares, the DOCG wine style is produced across the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giuli Prosecco Superiore is grown exclusively on hillside vineyards regions in the north-east of Italy using the grape formerly known in the foothills of the Dolomites - and the fruit is always as prosecco, but now called glera. handpicked. The DOCG rolls across a series of ‘hogsback’ hills embroidered Grape growing has been widespread in the Conegliano with a quite lovely mosaic of vines. Valdobbiadene zone since ancient times. Yields are lower and there is an increased focus on both terroir and sustainability. What a difference a G makes. Unlike Champagne and Franciacorta DOCG, Prosecco is usually produced using the Charmat (known in Italy as Martinotti) method, in which the secondary fermentation takes place in large stainless steel tanks rather than in individual bottles. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 39

“One of the major issues that we have as a region is teaching consumers how to differentiate between the different levels of Prosecco and to identify DOCG wines as the best available,” says DOCG Consorzio director Diego Tomasi. “We have to somehow let people know that there are many styles of proseccos,” says Marco Cescon from the producer Mani Sage. “The differences need to be explained so that people truly understand.” Tomasi points to the following factors as making the region ideal for crafting sparkling wines; the mild spring-summer climate; medium-high summer rainfalls; a long-lasting autumn, good hills ventilation and an extremely high diurnal range. There is no one style of prosecco, however, even within the upmarket iterations of the DOCG regions. Wines are made in a variety of sweetness levels, and as spumante (sparkling), and in much lesser volumes as frizzante (lightly sparkling) and tranquillo (still). Superiore wines are always spumante. The cloudy col fondo styles, once regarded as rustic, are now enjoying great popularity among younger drinkers familiar with “natural” styles. Wines are classified according to sweetness - though the terminology is hugely confusing. Extra Dry is quite sweet, with up to 17 grams per litre of residual sugar. Dry wines can be as high as 32 grams. Brut and Extra Brut are the truly drier versions. “We are very aware that today the marketplace is looking for wines that are grown sustainably, and in which the sugar content is lower,” says Tomasi. “People are also looking for wines that are lower in alcohol – to fit in with their lifestyles.” Prosecco DOCG wines weigh in at a minimum 9% ABV. The Prosecco grape was renamed glera in 2009 within the European Union and appellation rules allow for up to 15% of any wine to be other permitted varieties. It has been the major grape in the region since around the time of World War II. “It was only in the 1980s that a focus on quality production 40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

began,” says Tomasi. Nowadays more producers are looking at Few wine regions can match the hills of Prosecco surrounding organic and biodynamic processes and herbicides have been Conegliano and Valdobbiadene when it comes to tourism offerings banned since 2019. – and the best vineyards in the region are just a short drive, or train ride, from Venice. “We have been certified organic and biodynamic for many years - and that is very important for us,” says Claudio Francavilla owner The hills were named as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2019 and of L’Antica Quercia in the Scomigo Hills. It is 100% natural yeasts offer a combination of wine, food, art, history, and spectacular scenery. here, and the composts are made using cuttings and skins. The Strada del Prosecco was set up in 1966, the first recognised “We are on the axis that connects the high peaks of the Dolomites Wine Route in Italy. The Prosecco Road consists of 90km of to Venice, nestled among unique hills which give us everything we winding roads, spectacular hills, and vineyards at a range of could want. For vines, olive trees and all the other trees we grow extreme angles. are looked after and respected according to the rhythms and the rules always suggested by nature.” Three recommended places to stay: Cescon from Mani Sage says: “Sustainability goes beyond HOTEL CANON D’ORO: In the centre of the town of Conegliano viticulture for us. There is also a need to plant trees; to reduce our and within walking distance of cafés and restaurants, this older- carbon footprint. style hotel offers comfortable and affordable rooms and has welcoming staff. www.hotelcanondoro.it/en/ “It is up to drinkers to decide whether they are prepared to pay more for a wine that is sustainably produced.” OUR RUSTICA: A beautiful rustic retreat and hands-on cooking school run by an Anglo-Italian couple who stepped out of city life Change is still in the wind. Since 2020, the DOC rules allow a for the charms of the country. The duo has a passion for living rosé variety of Prosecco designated spumante rosé, which must off the land and going back to nature – and their rural idyll offers contain largely glera blended with up to 10-15% of pinot nero (or the perfect introduction to La Dolce Vita. Five years ago, they pinot noir). But there is, as yet, no DOCG rosé. completed renovations of a ruined old farmhouse and opened OurRustica B&B and Cookery School. www.ourrustica.com/ What should consumers be looking for then? “The key for us is to make wines that are as fresh as possible,” RELAIS CA MILONE: A charming country house B&B and says Stefano Gava, chief winemaker for Villa Sandi. “A good restaurant with its own helicopter pad. Set in the centre of a balance between sugar and acid is essential so people can 10-hectare wine estate it has a large garden and its own swimming enjoy two or three glasses and not stop at one. Balance is the key pool. Several room styles are available, along with a separate fully ingredient no matter what the level of sugar is.” equipped holiday home. www.camilone.com Previous pages: On the Prosecco Road; Santa Margherita DOCG Prosecco is a # Wineries visited included tiny artisan Mongarda, medium-sized best seller. L’Antica Quercia, as well as the fourth-generation La Tordera and Opposite page top to bottom: The DOCG vineyards are often very steep; the town of the grand Villa Sandi. Conegliano; Villa Sandi's grand palladian villa. This page top left clockwise: Tasting a range of releases; the tiny vineyard village of Rolle; winemaker Martino Tormena at Mongarda winery. Images: Winsor Dobbin/Consorzio Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 41

42 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

FIELDS OF DREAMS Newcomer Drury Lane Estate has big plans on the horizon WINSOR DOBBIN DRURY Lane Estate may be a newcomer cyber tech company, and he played rugby “A shiraz nouveau is a shiraz that has been on the Hunter Valley wine industry block, union professionally for a decade as a prop harvested and bottled in the same year – it but there is plenty of experience and forward for the Western Force, Queensland is young, fresh and sexy,” Alexandra says. expertise on hand. Reds, and ACT Brumbies after growing up on the family cattle and crop farm at “This year we sold all our chardonnay Owners Alexandra and Angus Scott come Cootamundra in the Riverina, the birthplace grapes but in 2023 we will be bottling a from corporate IT and farming backgrounds of another sportsman: Sir Donald Bradman. large portion of these and adding a modern respectively and they have employed two tasting chardonnay to our line-up, along of the Hunter’s most knowledgeable wine Former Western Force coach John with a sparkling wine - plus a traditional industry hands to guide them on their Mitchell said of Scott, who retired from shiraz, which will be our 2022 picked shiraz way: viticulturist Liz Riley and consultant rugby in 2008 due to injury: \"Gus was one that has been aged in oak for 18 months.” winemaker Richard Done. of the best loosehead props in Australia”. Featuring a very distinctive whippet That’s a whole lot of important bases Alexandra, meanwhile, describes herself on their label, the logo pays homage to covered. on LinkedIn as “a strategic hunter, problem Alexandra’s family, with the same dog solver and creative thinker”. appearing on the Drury family crest. Located on Hermitage Road in Pokolbin, Drury Lane Estate is what used to be known The super successful couple decided There is a real synergy to their Hunter as Hermitage Heights vineyard, with soil on they wanted a vineyard in the Hunter Valley story. limestone foundations with a mixture of red – just up the road from their Sydney home clay, sandy loam, and silty soils. – so they went out and purchased one. Alexandra says she was always drawn to the Hunter. “Much of my youth was The vines here are approaching 30 years When Hermitage Heights came up for spent visiting the area, going to wineries of age - and the grapes have been used sale, they saw it as the perfect opportunity. and restaurants, playing golf and enjoying for some regional standouts in the past. music festivals,” she says. “Angus and I “They say every cloud has a silver lining, even got married in Wollombi.” This beautiful country estate, set on and ours was that in the middle of Covid, the almost 45 hectares, features a grand main company I worked for closed our Sydney The couple has linked with two people homestead and a manager’s residence offices and globally adopted a ‘work from who know more about the Hunter, grapes, while the vineyards are planted with shiraz, anywhere’ policy,” says Alexandra. “So, and wine than most in Riley and Done. semillon, and chardonnay. Angus and I sold up in Sydney and moved to the Hunter.” Riley is the owner The Scotts purchased the property in and operator of Vitibit the middle of the Covid pandemic, but The husband-and-wife team have an Pty Ltd and a leader in immediately set to work with three wines ethos based around sustainable farming, viticultural consulting. She from the 2022 vintage – a semillon, a rosé authenticity and challenging the status quo. was the Hunter Valley Wine and a shiraz nouveau - already in the Industry’s 2011 Viticulturist market with eye-catching new labels. With his farming background and her of the Year, the 2017 sales and marketing drive combined, their ASVO Viticulturist The Scotts are used to success. dream is to create wines that rival the best of the Year and She was a corporate highflyer with a US of the Hunter. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 43

received an award for excellence from the Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association in 2021. Done, meanwhile, is the head winemaker at Bimbadgen Hunter Valley and also operates his own label, being owner/ winemaker at John Wallace Wines. He has been making wine in the Hunter Valley for 15 years, first with Scarborough Wines and then Thomas Wines before taking up his current role. He has a Masters in Wine Science and Viticulture and Bachelor of Business in Hotel Management. He was the recipient of the Alisdair Sutherland scholarship in 2015 for an up- and-coming wine show judge. Along with learning about the winemaking business, the Scotts are raising four children, aged between five and 15. But wait, there is more to this all-action couple. In addition to co-founding Drury Lane Estate, Angus is also the principal of ScottBuilt, a full-service residential builder servicing the Central Coast, Newcastle, and Hunter Valley. Building up Drury Lane Estate is Alexandra’s planned transition out of corporate life. “I could never retire because I can’t sit still, but the estate presented the opportunity to combine my sales, marketing and leadership skills with my passion for wine, to make a living out of doing what I love,” she says. \"I have spent most of my life selling other people’s products but have always wanted to produce my own - Drury Lane Estate presented that opportunity. “There is nothing more satisfying than growing your own grapes, producing and bottling the wine and being able to taste the finished product and share it with the people you love. Previous page: Owner Alexandra Scott drinking Rosé. This page: Alexandra and Angus Scott in the vineyard, Drury Lane range of Semillon, Rosé and Shiraz Nouveau. Following page: Platter with Semillon, grapes in the vineyard, sunrise in the vineyard. 44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

The vines here are approaching 30 years of age - and the grapes have been used for some regional standouts in the past. “I am super proud of what we have achieved on the estate thus far - and look forward to a bright future ahead. We will aim to produce classic wine varietals made to taste young, fresh and sexy. “I could never have made the move without my husband by my side. He is our vigneron, which translates in French to a person who cultivates grapes for winemaking. He is a jack of all trades around the property and does anything and everything from managing the vineyard, fencing, and herding cattle to renovating the homestead and building our cellar door.” Yes, there is a cellar door coming soon. “He works very closely with our viticulturist, Liz Riley, to make sure that the vines and fruit are the best they can be. He is slowly teaching me to be more hands on in the vineyard… I have learned how to spray the vines and my next lesson is how to drive a tractor.” Until the cellar door opens in 2023, “our focus is on building out our online sales and working hard to find stockists and partners who share our brand values,” says Alexandra. #Drury Lane Estate won a Gold Award in Winestate’s annual semillon tasting with 96 points. For full details see www.drurylane.com.au. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 45

Meet Your new favourite wine destination coming to the picturesque region of Pipers River, north of Launceston, Tasmania in 2023. Life by Luca Photography A lot has happened at Russell & Suitor’s Pipers River property since Alex Russell and his wife Lara Suitor took it over in 2016. At the time, it had just 2ha under vine - now it has 15ha, with varieties including pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. The next step for the family is building a cellar door open to the public. The build is well-underway, with an aim to be completed and ready to welcome visitors in 2023. Alex Russell’s journey into the world of fermentation started from humble beginnings; in 1980’s Melbourne, at the counter of a local store sat a Cooper’s homebrew kit and it seemed fate had a plan. With the goal of making a beer for his dad, Alex’s homebrewing repertoire soon included ginger beer, elderberry wine, cider, mead, and wine made from grape juice concentrate. By the age of thirteen, Alex was already on the path to a promising future in winemaking. A childhood spent growing fruit and vegetables, hunting for game and yabbie fishing after school instilled in Alex a deep respect for the land and all its bounty.

This passion for agriculture alongside his budding fermentation hobby laid an obvious road to the pursuit of a career in winemaking. After studying Viticulture at La Trobe University and Wine Science at Charles Sturt respectively, Alex began his winemaking career in South Australia, focusing on rare varietals such as Saperavi, Durif, and Lagrein. Alex holds a great passion for alternate varietals to this day and continues to produce these under his Alejandro label out of Riverland and Mildura. Alex’s obsession with quality and sustainability is unwavering. Endlessly zealous about quality and craft, 2016 saw Alex setting his sights on the cooler climate of Pipers River, north of Launceston, Tasmania. The family moved from Melbourne to be closer to Lara’s family. Alex was reinvigorated by the idyllic and pristine terroir of Tasmania, and the new opportunities such a climate presented. He grabbed the bull by the horns with that familiar confidence beloved by Alex Russell Wines loyalists, yet with the gentle hand required of cool-climate winemaking. The cellar door is the next step in the Russell/Suitor family’s journey, and one they are very keen to hit the ground running with. “We can’t wait to have the cellar door finished and ready to welcome people to our own little slice of paradise here in Pipers River.” says Lara. You can follow along their building journey on Facebook and Instagram, where the family are posting regular updates. Contact Details: Alex Russell - 0400 684 654 www.russellandsuitor.com.au @russellandsuitorwines @russellandsuitor

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING EVEN the most committed restaurant tapas and wine bar. Valore Pellegrino 2000. The interior is a nostalgic aficionados tend to restrict their going and Abrahanowicz are still on mix of vintage photos, a gold and sienna out activities during winter. But summer board and have teamed with colour scheme and deli items and the in Sydney almost begs you to eat out, Ben Milgate, their Porteno private dining room downstairs is lined with especially on weekends. This year has Group business partner from Porteno, wine bottles. seen an explosion of new restaurants and Wyno x Bodega and Bastardo. bars following the lockdown restrictions of On a recent visit, I tucked into a menu the Covid-19 pandemic and month after The heritage 1950s hair salon exterior of artichoke alla Romana, chickpea and month Mastercard SpendingPulse research has been retained and co-owner Sarah bottarga, fritto misto, prawn ravioli in a silky has revealed that Sydneysiders have Doyle has given the premises a colour butter sauce, veal cotoletta and tiramisu. continued to spend up big in restaurants makeover with yellow and terracotta-hued Everything was on point, especially the and hospitality venues. walls and pendant lamps. Marcelo Munoz ravioli. The wine list is dominated by Italian from Porteno and Bastardo is in charge of wines, as it should be. I've long been a fan of Bopp & Tone the menu. Divided into three categories and The Butler, operated by Applejack – vegetables, seafood and meat - diners Pellegrino 2000, 80 Campbell St, Surry Hospitality, so my interest was piqued can order char-grilled veggies, cuttlefish Hills; phone (02) 8593 0114. by the recent opening of the group's cooked in ink and house-cured meats and latest venture - RAFI - in North Sydney. sausages from chorizo to morcilla. Italophiles are also in for a rare treat at First off, it's big. More than 300 patrons Enoteca Ponti, the former space filled by can spread themselves out in the open- The wines are reason enough to drop by Monopole in Potts Point. Operated by the air terrace, cocktail bar, restaurant, at Bar Louise. Michael Nicollian, co-owner owners of nearby French favourite - Bistro private dining room and The Arbor, a of the Continental Deli, has put together a Rex - Josh Dunne, Peter Curcuruto, soaring glasshouse structure. globe-trotting list of bottlings from Spain, Cristian Veterani and Leigh McDivitt - Italy and France. There's also a tasty take the decor honours the work of Italian star Seasonal and super-fresh defines the on Sangria and Kalimotxo, the surprisingly architect and interiors genius, Giovanni menu from Peruvian-born head chef, enjoyable Spanish standard that mixes red \"Gio\" Ponti. Matias Cilloniz, (ex-Central in Lima and 42 wine with cola. Grams in Chicago). A standout side dish Head chef, Aldo Farrani (ex-Shell House) is the crispy potatoes with cream, chives Bar Louise, 135 Enmore Rd, Enmore; mixes the traditional with the innovative with and sea urchin and for mains it's hard to go phone (02) 8580 7380. go-to dishes such as lasagne spring rolls with past the dry-aged duck topped with plum fermented chilli aioli and pappardelle with and mustard leaves. French restaurants and brasseries have wild boar ragu. The wine list and cocktails are sprouted like mushrooms in Sydney over Italian-oriented from Soaves from the Veneto Applejack's dynamic drinks duo, Lachy the past year or two. Italian restaurants and Chiantis to the house Negroni. Storrock and Amandine Rouviere, have are now enjoying a strong revival. One curated a top-class wine list and tap beer of the best places to satisfy your culinary Enoteca Ponti, 71A Macleay St, Potts offerings. The expertly made cocktails have wanderlust is Fontana, run by the trio Point; phone 0420 857 171. also found a ready audience with local behind Don Peppino's former pop-up in workers from the large clutch of nearby Paddington - Daniel Johnston, Ivey Wawn Top right: Grilled king prawns with chilli miso butter office blocks. The interior comes courtesy and Harry Levy. from RAFI restaurant, Photo: Steven Woodburn. of leading design company, Luchetti Bottom right: Interior of RAFI restaurant & bar, Photo: Krelle, from the large island bar through to Hearty Italian fare with a twist is the Steven Woodburn. the stone and marble floors and fabrics by major lure. The focaccia is housemade Jimmy Pike, the famed indigenous artist. and Johnston's listings include One of the best places to be this summer polpette di sarde - Sardinian is on the sprawling outdoor terrace, filled \"meatballs\"- and ceci e tria - the with foliage, moody festoon lighting and signature chickpea pasta from shady umbrellas. Puglia. Sebade - Sardinian puffs filled with ricotta and pecorino - are RAFI, 99 Mount Street, North Sydney; a much-ordered dessert. phone (02) 8376 2900. Fontana, 133A Redfern St, People made the pilgrimage from all over Redfern; www.clubfontana.com. Sydney to dine at Stanbuli, the Turkish eatery in Enmore which closed in April after Dan Pepperell, Mikey Clift and a tenure of six years. Run by Ibrahim Kasif, Andy Tyson are renowned for Joe Valore and Elvis Abrahanowicz, the their work at French restaurants venue has been given an interior facelift such as Hubert and Bistrot 916. and is re-born as Bar Louise, a must-visit But the trio have also built up a strong rep in Italian cuisine at Alberto's Lounge and now 48 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022

perthgrapevine BERLINDA CONTI WITH vines in bloom, visitors to WA’s The couple’s respect for wood fired WA 6288. Kitchen open Wednesday – Southwest are well advised to schedule cooking originated from a formative visit Sunday, 11.30am – 2.30pm. Contact: a leisurely drive to Karridale and book to Dario Cecchini’s Tuscan restaurant in glenartyroad.com.au a culinary experience at award-winning 2018; here they feasted on Chianina beef Glenarty Road this spring. cooked over a custom wood-fire which Innovative changemakers and the in turn inspired Ben to build his own and creative minds behind small bar and Supported by their sustainable ethos of consequently add Chianina beef to the herd. café, Bark Subiaco, unveiled their second ‘ground to glass’ and ‘farm to table’, owners drinking haunt in August - Lums Wine Bar Ben (viticulturalist) and Sasha (winemaker) It’s a sentiment also shared by head - located just 300 metres down the road in McDonald have created a truly immersive chef Jess Widmer whose penchant for central Hay Street. wine and dining celebration with huge cooking with fire stems from her exposure respect to wood-fired cooking, small batch, to Argentinian style dining while living Named after the once family-owned, regeneratively grown produce, and creative in Sydney. 1920s landmark - EA Lums Grocery & winemaking. General Store - this charismatic, wine- The highly rated Forage on the Farm tours centric wine bar nods to its historical Their seasonal veggie garden is the are ideal for those who fancy a relaxing and origins, whilst embracing a style all its backbone to the dining offering; around educational meander through the winery, own - and Subi locals are cooing from 80 percent of their farm produce is used paddock and gardens, according to Sasha. the rooftops over the building’s tasteful in the kitchen, while 1300 wool-shedding transformation. sheep (Ultrawhite and Sheepmaster), a few Held over four stages, the walking ‘Square Meater’ cattle and a growing family foraging feast is inclusive of 10 wines Period reminders such as jarrah boards, of pigs are respectfully raised and feature and seasonal farm snacks including soaring ceilings and exposed brickwork in various guises on the menu (otherwise local cheeses, freshly baked bread and hold their own against a newly added referred to as ‘top to tail’). charcuterie ($110 per person, from 2pm, quartz bar and a cosy courtyard. Thurs – Mon). Try the Every Acre Feast ($110) – a Owners Mitch Jenkin, Lee Hutchings, chef’s selection of five generous courses Alternatively, perch at the tasting bar Oliver Wasse, and new addition, Ashley which usually includes hand-harvested, – which, like the dining room, is a rustic Allen, have curated a food and drinks thoughtfully prepared produce; crusty farm aesthetic inspired by fallen Marri trees, menu that celebrates smaller boutique wine sour dough and handmade butter; free- milled on the farm and hand crafted by producers, along with a healthy smattering range charcuterie (think Tuscan pork and Ben and his mates which furnish the walls, of European and new-school wine styles. fennel salami or lamb landjaeger), along tables and the solid countertops. with a seasonal protein hero (we feasted Wine-paired snacks inclusive of cheese on slow-cooked grass fed lamb shoulder Keep an eye on socials for Glenarty and charcuterie boards, share-style tapas and shanks with Mac-n-Cheese-style Road’s upcoming exclusive dinner in plates and savoury bites such as anchovy roasted Sugarloaf cabbage & Berkshire celebration of their Fathoms Cuvée – toast, burrata and meatballs serve as bacon alongside wood-fired broccolini with small-batch sparkling wine made by wild- perfect wine companions. barbecued mustard green emulsion and fermentation then lowered 10 fathoms into creamy ricotta), polished off by house-made the depths of Flinders Bay where its lees The wine list is intended “for the people” gingerbread cake and mandarin curd. is stirred naturally for 13 months by the – and as promised, you’ll find something extreme currents of the Southern Ocean – a for most palates and preferences. unique process which creates incredible Select from an inviting Swan Valley texture and complexity in the Pet Nat, a fruit-driven Kiwi sauv blanc, a wine, according to Sasha. The buttery-oaked Margaret River chardie, an current 2021 vintage is a 49 easy-drinking French Gamay or a classic percent pinot and 51 percent Italian Chianti. chardonnay blend. The heritage-listed terrace building Ear-marked for December, accommodates 120 patrons over two levels the event promises to - inclusive of a protected rear courtyard, showcase the winery’s and a street-front parklet to optimise prime- ocean matured sparkling, time people-watching. along with Southern Ocean seafood sourced from Lums Wine Bar accommodates all Augusta, nearby. scenarios - from local patrons dropping by for a vino, to larger groups and functions. Glenarty Road, 70 Glenarty Road, Karridale Lums Wine Bar, 433 Hay Street Subiaco WA 6008. Opening hours: Tuesday to Thursday 4 - 11pm; Friday 12pm - 12am & Saturday 12pm - 12am. No bookings. Top left: Glenarty Road exterior. Bottom left: Interior of Lums Wine Bar. November/December 2022 W I N E S TAT E 49

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS chilli sauce, or a wood-fired warm chicken or wood-grilled southern rock lobster with salad. Everything comes with gorgeous little pillows of puffed-up pita bread, straight from brown butter, garlic and caper sauce. the wood oven. Arkhe, 127 The Parade, Norwood. Open On a sunny morning you can sit on the vine-covered verandah for a terrific for lunch Tuesday to Sunday, dinner daily. Lebanese-style breakfast, perhaps enjoying wood-fired shakshuka or Mediterranean Phone (08) 330 3300. poached eggs with rainbow beetroot and chargrilled carrot. Under chef Paul Baker, the Botanic Ballaboosta, 540 Glynburn Road, Gardens Restaurant, a gorgeous pavilion Burnside. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, breakfast and in the heart of the botanic gardens, drew lunch Sunday. Phone (08) 8102 4157. THE opening of a second suburban on all the surrounding edible resources and Ballaboosta has given an enormous culinary Two restaurants that have opened in boost to Adelaide’s eastern suburbs, given Adelaide in the past year have suddenly won much acclaim. that it is often pretty well packed even on raised the city’s gastronomic bar to new “quiet” days. heights, with Restaurant Botanic and Now American-born chef Justin James Arkhe providing new levels of excitement The original Ballaboosta, which continues for local diners. has drawn on his experience at world in the CBD, looked like an oversize garage – in fact it was once a laundromat - with Both are reincarnations of much-admired renowned restaurants such as Eleven customers spilling onto the street when the former restaurants. What was once Stone’s weather was fine. But when the weather Throw restaurant on busy Norwood Parade Madison Park, Noma in Copenhagen and closed in, so did the foldaway doors and has been gutted and totally transformed by inside became one of the coziest dining designers Studio Gram. Arkhe occupies a Vue de monde in Melbourne to create spaces in town, sitting almost on top of the large space but, unlike its predecessor, brittle huge wood oven in which much of its menu noise levels have been much contained, and a rarified and exquisite tasting menu, of Lebanese comfort food was cooked. a distinctive character has been created through the use of black salvaged railway harvesting flowers, leaves, seeds and The new incarnation, in a former corner sleepers and a general singed look that fits café once a post-hike coffee and lunch spot the fire-focus of the restaurant. roots and experimenting with them in for Adelaide Hills walkers, occupies a much larger site, double the size of its city sibling, There are several dining zones, the pick of ferments and pickles to create The Garden but still with an open kitchen dominated by which are the 18 counter seats overlooking a large wood oven and still with a sense of the kitchen where everything is cooked over Trail featuring at least 20 different flavour comfortable homeliness. Ballaboosta is a open fire by chef Jake Kellie and his team. Yiddish term for a mother who holds her combinations – such as marron tail poached family together with love and affection, and This is no mean feat, with no gas or that’s the warmth that infuses this restaurant. electricity used in the kitchen, but Kellie in marron butter and then grilled in a bundle has drawn on his experience as head chef Restaurant owner Naj Moubayed’s of Michelin-starred Burnt Ends, a modern of native leaves, accompanied by a corn mother, Betty, is the ‘ballaboosta’ in charge barbecue restaurant consistently ranked of the kitchen, hence a section on the menu among the world’s best 50 barbecue sauce and fermented chilli oil. labelled Betty’s Kitchen that features dishes restaurants. such as enormous, chargrilled king prawns This sort of dining is right up there in price, cooked in herb butter with a lemon and herb At the heart of it all is the dual cavity wood dressing, or kafta, finely-ground lamb mince oven, weighing 3.5 tonnes, which also up to $295 for the Garden Trail menu, but skewers with garlic, lemon and mint. provides the coals for the adjoining four elevation grills. Start with fragile little tarts the wine pairings have taken the spotlight, Start with classic Lebanese mezes, salads of molten duck liver parfait and pickled such as a super crunchy fresh fatoush, a blackberry, a signature dish borrowed from starting at $175 and soaring to $800 for the very traditional Lebanese dish, or brilliant Burnt Ends, before moving on to dishes little pastries called sambousik, stuffed with such as roasted Port Lincoln kingfish collar “Crème de la Crème” selection of bucket-list minced beef and toasted pine nuts. wines – the most expensive pairing list in the There are hearty soups such as spicy lentil with rice and spinach, then main courses country. Corkage is a relatively modest $100. such as samak harra – literally hot fish, oven baked and served with tahini and Restaurant Botanic, Plane Tree Drive, Adelaide. Open for lunch Sunday, dinner Thursday to Saturday. Phone (08) 8223 3526. Top: Arkhe restaurant interior. Top left: Arkhe bar snacks. Bottom right: Balaboosta lamb skewers. 50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2022