Winestate Magazine July August 2010

JULY/AUGUST 2010 WINESTATE VOL 33 ISSUE 4 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDECABERNET & BLENDS McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEU CLARE VALLEY UPPER NORTH ISLAND, NZ The Ultimate 352 cabernet & blendsPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 BLOGGERS & TWEETERS SEARCH FOR AN The decline of wine writing? IDENTITY 327 McLaren Vale, Divorced from Coonawarra, Wrattonbully struggles for recognition Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu Feeling Gru-Ve? July/August 2010 The rise of Gruner Veltliner Vol 33 Issue 4 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) ON YOUR BIKES! UK £3.95 NZ $10.95 The discerning drinker’s guide to the 2010 Tour de France plus Clare Valley McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu Whiskies of the World Upper North Island (NZ)

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NO.235 JULY/AUGUST 2010Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Sue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews, Valmai HankelVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 Mob: 0457 834 880 E-mail: [email protected], South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaJamie O’Keeffe - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 5

contentsJULY/AUGUST 2010F E AT U R E S R E G U L A R S30 New initiatives pull Gisborne 10 Briefs off the ropes 21 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper With a goal of becoming “the aromatic capital of the country”, the 22 European Report with Sally Easton New Zealand Upper North Island region of Gisborne is shaking 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley off the blues caused by a slump in demand for chardonnay, as 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Michael Cooper reveals. 28 Wine History with Valmai Hankel32 Bloggers and tweeters invade writers’ territory 56 Grapevine The inexorable march of technology is changing the face of traditional 62 Wine Words wine reviewing, but Andrew Corrigan MW explains why blogs and tweets 46 87 Subscription Form from non-experts are not a reliable guide to what you should drink. 89 How We Judge36 Isolated region searches for 46 Maxwell - smart, small, successful, 90 Wine Investment & Collecting a new identity What’s it Worth? Geographically divorced from its and a little shy 94 Aftertaste illustrious Coonawarra neighbour, Wrattonbully is striving for His McLaren Vale operation might Whiskies of the World, New recognition in its own right. Jeni Port have low public recognition, but that’s 154 looks at how the region’s wineries and growers are trying to sell their the way Mark Maxwell likes it. He strengths to the public. tells Joy Walterfang of his low profile/40 Saddle up for the drinker’s guide to the Tour de France low price philosophy and of plans for With the 2010 Tour de France up and running, settle back in front Maxwell’s wines - and its mead. 65 of the telly with Paul Smart and Graeme Phillips and follow the 48 Maintaining a Clare vision of Releases and Top 40 Best Buys under $20. cyclists day by day by sipping the tradition and standards signature wines - and beers - of the In the face of aggressive marketing regions they’re riding through. by bigger regions, Peter Barry has unswerving faith in the family values and quality of wine from his beloved Clare Valley. D. Paul Hardy talks to the man behind his late father’s label. 52 Worldy wisdom from the 32 brains in Spain Concluding a two-part series, W I N E TAST I N G S d’Arenberg winemaker Chester Osborn continues analysing the 2009 Wine Future Rioja conference on issues ranging from health to labelling, growing markets and lightweight bottles. 96 Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 110 Clare Valley 116 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu 136 Upper North Island, NZ 138 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Winestate Magazine Issue Number 235 July/August 2010 Cover photograph © Donald Gruener.6 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

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editorialTHIS IS QUITE AN INTERESTING,diverse issue where, firstly, Andrew Corrigan vents hisspleen against “half-twitters” and “in-your-facebook”users, arguing that the information explosion needs to betempered by the lemming-like quality of data that is beingwhipped around the globe. As he points out, it is not aboutbeing an out-of-date “old fart” wino, nor a technically savvy“young tart” enthusiast. It is about getting it right! Chester Osborn continues his series on the 2009Wine Future Conference held in Rioja, Spain, with somecontroversial, forward-thinking predictions which may cometrue; or not! Chardonnay with peach and green tea in thefuture seems over the top, along with sauvignon blanc withelderflower and ginseng. Is the guy making these forecastssmoking something we don’t know about? Nevertheless,it’s all thought-provoking and well worth thinking about! Jeni Port looks at the understated Wrattonbully region ofSouth Australia’s Limestone Coast, while Michael Cooper,similarly, talks up Gisborne’s wines from New Zealand’s North Island. Jeni describes in detail thefascinating machinations of wine politics, where naming rights are critical and one man’s boundary isanother man’s opportunity. (Kind of reminds me of Bordeaux, where a straight fence divides a firstgrowth from a third growth, despite the fact that nature doesn’t travel in straight lines.) For our winery profiles we feature the Jim Barry winery as our introduction to our Clare Valleytasting, and Maxwell Wines for the McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu region introduction.I have fond memories of the Maxwell name, with founder, the late Ken Maxwell, being on the boardthat selected me as manager of the South Australian Wine Information Bureau back in the mid-70s,gaining me entry into the wine industry and, ultimately, the opportunity to start this magazine. Thelate Jim Barry was also one of the pioneers of the industry and a wonderful promoter of the regionas Australia’s finest for dry riesling, which it proved to be. It is great to see the tradition beingcontinued by their sons, Mark Maxwell and Peter Barry. I’m sure their fathers would be very proud. For more interesting articles, regular columnist Sally Easton MW, Clive Hartley, Valmai Hankel andElisabeth King continue to entertain and educate with their well-thought-out contributions, whileour Grapevine and regional travel briefs bring you up to date on where to eat and where to stay. And finally, for a bit of fun we include a piece on the Tour de France from Tasmanian writer GraemePhillips, from an original idea from Paul Smart. The idea is to grab a glass of wine and some Frenchcheeses and indulge yourself as the tour unfolds. Sip your way through that one!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherJuly/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsHIGHWAY TO DESPAIR SWEET AND SOUR VERDICTIN THE PAST, Wildwood Vineyard’s close proximity to Melbourne WINEMAKERS aroundwas excellent for business. Now, it is its downfall. The award-winning Australia can breathe a sighvineyard and winery near Bulla in the Sunbury wine region has been of relief. Well, kind of. After 15targeted for Melbourne’s new Outer Metropolitan Ring and E6 transport months travelling and tasting hiscorridor, and owners Wayne and Noel Stott have been served notice. way across the country, notedMost of their 15ha vineyard, the winery, cafe and their 120-year-old English wine writer Andrewhome will be compulsorily acquired by the Victorian Government. Jefford is now back home and ready to write of his experiences The Stotts are devastated. They believed when they purchased the in a book on Australian wine.land in rural Bulla in 1983 and planted vines that they were in a well-established green belt, an area protected from development. Now The good news is that he wasthey say the government’s acquisition will mark the end of Wildwood excited by much of what heVineyards. Wayne Stott, 65, says he is past being able to start over found. With the Australian industry in crisis internationally due to fallingagain. Sadly, the Wildwood vines were just reaching full maturity sales and bored consumers, Andrew was heartened to see Aussieand producing some excellent wines, including more reserve quality winemakers willing to face their problems and re-create wines in awines than ever before. “It’s been a long haul, but we’re there now different mould, with the emphasis not on producing branded winesand this is the sad thing,” says Wayne. “All this will go.” to suit the masses but on wines that focus on regionality and terroir. Wildwood produces predominantly red wines - shiraz, cabernet But then there were aspects of Australian wine that he was lesssauvignon and petit verdot - along with a little chardonnay. excited about. Having applauded moves to produce wines that speak of where they are grown, a sense of place, he was far, far less The Outer Ring Road is due to start construction in 2020 but happy with winemaking that disguises terroir, namely the popularWayne is uncertain how many vintages, if any, he has left on his Australian habit of adding acid during winemaking to compensateproperty. That decision is up to VicRoads. for grapes picked high in sugar but low in acid. He reserved his harshest criticism for two well-known regions. “I struggle a bit with the Barossa and McLaren Vale,” he said. “Certainly the Barossa has had it a bit too easy for too long and hasn’t really called the basics into question quite enough. Personally, I find a lot of the acclaimed wines of the Barossa not satisfying and not food-friendly. “I’m not convinced that shiraz really is the great Barossa variety. I know that sounds heretical but I’m not.” Andrew argues that Barossa shiraz producers need to adjust their grapegrowing and winemaking techniques or plant new varieties. It is, presumably, a topic that will be discussed further in his book, due out in 2012. tomichwines.indd 1 Tomich Wines - Passion from the land to the bottle, our award10 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010 winning wines are 100% estate grown from our cool climate vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. Visit our tasting room at 87 King William Road, Unley SA Proudly distributed nationally SA - Festival City Wines & Spirits 08 8349 1200 VIC - In Wine 03 9426 9000 NSW - In Wine 02 9699 6800 QLD - In Wine 0410 679 410 WA - In Wine 0407 471 588 Alice Springs - Wine Club Nick Hill 08 8952 3597 Brand Manager - Troy Smedley 0403 715 217 www.tomich.com.au 22/9/09 9:56:10 PM

briefsTASSIE’S TOP VINEYARD BOLLINGER WARMS TO CHANGEAN 11-YEAR-OLD Tasmanian vineyard specialising in pinot noir, CAN climate changechardonnay and that Tasmanian rarity, cabernet sauvignon, has have its benefits? Thebeen named the state’s 2010 Vineyard of the Year. Cape Bernier, Champagne house ofoverlooking Marion Bay on the lower east coast, was praised by Bollinger believes so.judges at the Royal Agricultural Society of Tasmania for its general While some regionsexcellence in grapegrowing and vineyard management. have noticed the effect of climate change Cape Bernier was founded by former government policy adviser over the past 20Alastair Christie, who believes the secret to good viticulture is years, sometimes forunderstanding the land. “We want to work with our terroir and produce the worse, Bollingerfruit and, hence, wine which displays these characteristics,” he says. says Champagne has experienced changeSMALLER CROP, GREATER QUALITY for the better.THE WORD on the 2010 Australian wine harvest can be summed up “The ’80s and ’90ssuccinctly: small but excellent. By mid-April, with most of the national were the best vintagesharvest picked, production levels looked to be well down on previous ever,” claims Vianneyyears. Industry analysts suggested the total harvest would be close to Fabre, Bollinger’s1.4 million tonnes. The figure is down on 2009 (1.7 million) and 2008 (1.8 export director for the Pacific and Middle East. “From 2000 tomillion) and will generally bring a smile to producers who desperately 2010 there was only 2001, 2003 and 2006 that have been notneed a small vintage to offset the industry’s damaging wine glut. very good. The rest is very good.” Some producers worked hard to deliver a smaller crop, dropping In Australia to launch Bollinger’s La Grande Annee 2000grapes on the ground in the lead-up to vintage or mothballing vineyards vintage ($200), Monsieur Fabre added that high alcohols,and not picking at all. Others, especially those in the troubled irrigated often regarded as a result of warmer vintages and climatewine areas on reduced water allocation, had little choice. change, had not been a problem in Champagne either, thereby highlighting that the experience of warmer weather in what Most winegrowers this year noted another earlier than usual start remains one of the coldest, most northerly winegrowing regionsto vintage, something that has become a regular fact of life since in Europe is, as always, relative.2006. And despite pressures from disease, notably the botrytismould that thrives in wet and humid conditions, the 2010 vintage Monsieur Fabre also welcomed the introduction of a newlooks set to produce some stunning wines. The extreme heat spikes lightweight champagne bottle aimed at cutting carbon emissions.of both 2008 and 2009 were not seen this vintage and the general The new bottle weighs in at 835g, down 65g on the usual standardweather pattern was one of mild conditions from the start, with a bottle, and is one of a series of initiatives aimed at reducing thepleasant Indian summer through April to finish. Champagne region’s carbon emissions by 25 per cent by 2020. Riedel Glass Tasting Come and experience the difference a glass can make to the flavour of wine.Does the fresh herbaceous terminology Hosted by Mark Baulderstone, Riedel GlassTastingof wine tasting confuse you? Would Managing Director from Riedel Perth Saturday 3 July - 2pmyou like to be able to read a wine label Australia, you will be guidedand know more about the wine inside? through a Glass Tasting that will Sunday 4 July - 2pmPerhaps you’re on your way to becoming engage you in an exploration of Sydney Saturday 17 July - 2pma wine expert and would like to broaden the senses of wine. Each glass will beyour repertoire and palate? Or, if you’re matched with premium Australian wines. Sunday 18 July - 2pmlike most of us, you just enjoy a glass of Adelaide (tickets on sale from 28 July)good wine to complement good food. As a part of your ticket cost, you will receive 4 glasses from the Vitis range to Saturday 9 October - 2pmWhatever your interest in wine, you’ll find take home valued at $299.95 Sunday 10 October - 2pmfascinating new information and vintagetastes to savour in the Riedel Wine Theatre. Cost: $120.00 per ticket (plus Show Entry)Visit the Good Food and Wine Show website www.goodfoodshow.com.au July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsHENSCHKE TASTE TEMPTATIONS PROVENCE IN HOBARTHENSCHKE has launched HOBART has a new French bistro, wine bar and fine wine centretwo new offers that are rolled into one following the opening of Remi de Provence. It’scertain to be hugely the brainchild of leading restaurateur Remi Bancal, who nowpopular with wine lovers splits his time between his Glencoe Rural Retreat in the northfrom around the world: VIP of the state and his new venture.tasting tours that includea guided tour of either The wine store has a wide selection of imported, Tasmanianthe Hill of Grace or Mount and mainland wines, with many choices from France, GermanyEdelstone vineyards and a and Italy, and is planning regular tastings for customers betweentour of the family’s famous 4.30 and 6pm on Thursday afternoons. Among the first wineriesEden Valley winery. featured were Leeuwin Estate and Kalleske. The tours include a Wines purchased from the wine store can be enjoyed at retailhosted tasting in the prices with a minimal corkage fee in the restaurant, which servesprivate tasting room of French comfort food like Provencale beef daube, cassoulet andfour white wines and six fricassee chicken with olives. All main courses are under $25reds, including Mount and there is a selection of dishes of the day, such as fish stewEdelstone, Cyril Henschke, Hill of Roses and Hill of Grace. with garlic and aioli on Friday.The tours are available on Thursdays and Fridays at 9.30am,11.30am and 2pm, on Saturdays at 9.30am and on public Remi de Provence is at 252 Macquarie St and is open Tuesdayholidays at 9.30am and 11.30am. to Sunday from 10am to 9.30pm. Phone (03) 6223 3933; www.remideprovence.com.au. The 140-year Henschke winemaking tradition wasestablished in 1868, when Johann Christian Henschke settledand planted his first small vineyard in the Eden Valley, aregion now world-renowned for its riesling and shiraz. Eachgeneration has contributed to the foundations of the Henschkesuccess, with Cyril Henschke pioneering varietal and single-vineyard wines, including his great legacy, Hill of Grace andMount Edelstone. The traditional family winery is owned by the fifth-generationwinemaker Stephen Henschke and viticulturist wife Prue.For tour details and fees, phone (08) 8564 8223 or [email protected] SONS AN ELITE DOZENMOVE ON APPLICATIONS are open for wine lovers and industryIT’S ALL change at Peter professionals to win a place at the 10th annual Len Evans TutorialLehmann, where two of at Tower Lodge, Hunter Valley, in the first week of November.the winery founder’s sons Many of the greatest, rarest and oldest wines are likely to beare leaving the business. opened, tasted and scrutinised in one extraordinary week whenDoug Lehmann, the 12 Australian winemakers, writers, retailers, sommeliers andwinery managing director enthusiasts are put through the sternest and most rewardingand Peter’s eldest son, wine course of their lives.announced his retirementas of the end of the financial The program is designed to define the demands of show judgingyear, while winemaker Phil and to define quality by exposing the participants to the greatLehmann, Peter’s youngest son, left in April. wine styles of the world. A team of five tutors will put them through their paces in what one tutor, James Halliday, describes as “the Both are looking forward to the next chapters of their lives, with most exclusive wine school in the world”. Other tutors include IanDoug saying he has completed 20 years in a “pretty big job”. He McKenzie, Iain Riggs, Gary Steel and Brian Croser.will continue to be involved with the company as a non-executivedirector and deputy chairman from July 1. Applications close on August 6, with 12 fully paid scholarships being offered, each with wine, food and accommodation valued Phil has applied to study for a master’s degree at the University at around $9000. Applicants should send their CV with a detailedof Adelaide. “I really love winemaking, but so much marketing and letter outlining their reasons for wanting to be a Len Evans Scholarbusiness goes with it,” he says. to [email protected] W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010



briefsBRAD MEETS BONNY DOON SHIFTING POSITIONSBRAD Wehr, the winemaker and marketing whiz behind the Wineby Brad and Mantra wine labels, has branched out into distribution. ROCCO Esposito,In conjunction with Neville Yates of Eurocentric, Brad is importing formerly owner/chef ofwines made at California’s famous Bonny Doon Vineyard by Randall acclaimed restaurantGrahm, who was recently inducted into the Californian Vintners Hall Wardens of Beechworth,of Fame. Included in the first shipment, available now, are Bonny has joined King ValleyDoon’s signature Le Cigare wines and a selection from the Ca’del winery Chrismont in theSolo range from their biodynamic vineyard. Wines available in the new role of marketinginitial shipment are the 2007 Le Cigare Blanc, 2005 Le Cigare Volant, and brand development2006 Syrah Le Pousseur and 2006 Ca’del Solo Nebbiolo. manager. “Everything at Chrismont is created with passion and I’m delighted to accept the role the company has created for me,” he says. In another industry change, the Adelaide Hills Wine Region has appointed Natasha Stoodley as administration officer - a role she takes over from Denise Manson. Natasha previously worked at the Longview winery in Macclesfield. In the Hunter, Dean Gorddard is the new executive manager of Hunter Valley Wine Country Tourism, while in Tasmania, Sheralee Davies, formerly of Constellation Wines, is the new chief executive of Wine Industry Tasmania, taking over from Stuart Nettlefold.QUALITY TEAM FOR SHAW WINERY’S NEW VENTUREFLINT in the Vines is the new restaurant at the Shaw Vineyard ANGULLONG WinesEstate cellar door in Murrumbateman, outside Canberra, headed recently opened Basaltby restaurateur Grant Kells of Canberra favourite Flint Dining Room Wine Bar + Dining inand Bar and sommelier Jai Dawson, formerly of Sydney’s Longrain. the thriving village of Millthorpe on the “Flint builds on the same premise as Flint Dining Room & Bar - outskirts of Orange,good food in a casual environment,” says chef Grant. which has become something of a gourmet The menu will be a showcase for fresh local and regional hotspot over the pastproduce, utilising a wood-fired oven and grill to create dishes couple of years.designed to be shared. Located in the historic Shaw Vineyard Estate owner Graeme Shaw says Grant and Jai former Commercial“have really lifted the Canberra dining scene to a new level. We’re Hotel, Basalt compriseslooking forward to offering that same great dining experience in a dining room,the vineyard here at Shaw”. communal bar, outside courtyard and separate Flint in the Vines serves breakfast at weekends, lunch function area.Wednesday to Sunday and dinner Wednesday to Saturday.Phone (02) 6227 5144; www.shawvineyards.com.au. The Basalt team, headed by chef Michael Third, has had extensive experience working with local foods and producers. Basalt boasts a hand-selected range from Orange regional winemakers, with a full range of Angullong wines by the glass. Boutique beers from the region are also on offer. Opening times are noon to 9pm Wednesday to Friday and 10.30am to late on weekends.14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

WINE OF ATwHEaYrEdARs 2 01012 November, 2010 at the National Wine Centre, AdelaideFull details available on-line at www.winestate.com.auThe Winestate Australian & New Zealand Wine Championships 2010featuring the best wines from Australia and New ZealandFor Ticketing, Booking or Sponsorshipenquiries call +61 8 8357 9277

briefsBRISBANE MASTERCLASSES BUBBLES ON THE BRAINONE of the highlights of the food and wine calendar, the Hilton SO YOU think you know a lot about champagne? You can putBrisbane Masterclass Weekend, will be held on July 24-25. your palate to the test by entering the 2010 Vin de ChampagnePresentations will cover subjects including Queensland seafood, Award. Organised every second year on behalf of the Comitecocktails, chocolate and pastry and the blending of spices. There Champagne, the award not only aims to celebrate thewill be several wine masterclasses and guest chefs including enjoyment of champagne in Australia but to unearth champagneEnglishman Michael Caines, Canadian Susur Lee and star pastry ambassadors who will share their knowledge.chef Adriano Zumbo. “No other wine award like this exists in Australia or in any other major Wine presenters include Louisa Rose from Yalumba, Helen Masters market for champagne in the world,” says Elisabeth Drysdale, directorfrom Ata Rangi and Clare Halloran from TarraWarra Estate, along of the Champagne Bureau. “The award has run for over 30 years andwith Michael Dhillon from Bindi and Iain Riggs from Brokenwood. has produced some of the finest champagne palates in the world.”Bookings are essential, and can be made at www.ticketmaster.com.au or 136 100. Full program details are at www.qldmasterclass.com. The award is open to candidates in three categories: professional, for people who gain income from the food and wine industry; amateur, for experienced tasters who have a passion for champagne; and student, for 18-27- year-olds who are enrolled in or have recently completed a wine, hospitality or catering course. Entrants will be required to answer a number of essay questions on champagne viticulture, terroir and history. State finalists will be flown to Sydney for final judging before a panel, when they are required to show their skills in tasting a range of champagnes selected from non-vintage, vintage, blanc de blanc and rose styles. Winners receive a two-week educational tour of the Champagne district. Entry forms are available from the Champagne Bureau website www.champagne-cic.com.au. Inquiries to (02) 9555 8891.DINING WITH THE EXPERTS CATCH THESE CABSTHE FOUR Seasons Hotel in Sydney has launched a new winemaker/ LOVERS of cabernet sauvignonchef’s table experience, combining the best in food and wine. Each should mark August 7 inmonth, a high-profile winemaker from Australia or New Zealand their diaries and plan a tripwill showcase their collection by pairing wines with a five-course to Coonawarra. Leadingmeal - including a series of vertical tastings. The experience begins Coonawarra producer Zemawith champagne and canapes at Kable’s wine bar, followed by a Estate will host its fourth annualdegustation dinner with matching wines at the chef’s table in the Great Cabernet Experiencekitchen. After dinner, guests go further behind the scenes for a kitchen on that date, featuringtour and chocolate tasting in the Four Seasons Chocolate Room. a benchmark tasting of 20 cabernets from four leading Hotel manager Daniel Simon says the winemaker dinner concept regions around the world.gives guests an opportunity to try the new Kable’s menu createdby chef Jeffrey De Rome, while tasting some of Australasia’s best Wine expert Jeremy Oliverwines. Wineries to be featured during the rest of the year include and Zema winemaker GregCloudy Bay on July 15, and Rockford, Petaluma, Cape Mentelle, Clayfield will guide attendeesBannockburn and Villa Maria. The dinners will be held once a month through tastings of wines fromand cost $300 a person, with a maximum 19 guests per event. St Estephe in Bordeaux, Rutherford in the Napa Valley and fromPhone (02) 9250 3306; www.fourseasons.com/sydney. Margaret River and Coonawarra. Tickets cost $250 and are available by phoning (08) 8736 3219. PINDARIE’S NEW BASE PINDARIE Wines has opened its new cellar door in the Barossa Valley. Pindarie is owned and managed by Tony Brooks and Wendy Allan, who have transformed a dilapidated old farm shed into a showpiece tasting area, using recycled timber, galvanised iron and locally quarried slate. The cellar door is open daily from 11am to 5pm. Phone (08) 8524 9109; www.pindarie.com.au.16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

RED FOR A BLOKES’ CAUSE Our Bellissimo… a beautiful collection ofANGOVE’S has released varieties new to Australiaa new red wine that from our Italian origins.aims to raise fundsand lift awareness of Perfect for ourprostate cancer. The Australian Lifestyle.family-owned winery willdonate 50c from everybottle sold of Big BlokesRed, a 2008 shiraz fromthe Limestone Coast,to the Prostate CancerFoundation of Australia.“The launch of this winegives us the chance togive something back toa cause that assists somany in our community,” says company chairman John Angove.“We feel that the retail and restaurant trade, and consumers,will pick up on the cause and help their mates.”CHARDONNAY CELEBRATIONBOOK early to secure a place at Chardonnay 10 - aninternational benchmark chardonnay event in the Yarra Valleyon July 24. Chardonnay 10 will compare a selection of YarraValley chardonnays with great chardonnays from throughoutthe world and is being organised by Garry and Julie Hounsellof Toolangi Vineyards to mark the 10th anniversary ofToolangi - a label that makes wines from grapes grown onthe Hounsells’ Dixon’s Creek property. A group of distinguished judges will include chairman JamesHalliday, New Zealand’s Bob Campbell MW, Huon Hooke andDebra Meiburg MW from Hong Kong. They will take part in aprivate international benchmark chardonnay tasting on the eveof Chardonnay 10, Friday July 23, tasting a range of 15 YarraValley chardonnays alongside 25 benchmark chardonnaysfrom New Zealand, France, Italy and California. The public events for Chardonnay 10 - the Chardonnay 10Masterclass and Toolangi Gala Dinner - will take place in theYarra Valley at Relais & Chateaux property Chateau Yering.See www.chardonnay10.com. McLaren Vale Restaurant • Resort • Conference Centre • Winery Kangarilla Road, McLarenVale SA 5171 P 08 8323 0157 F 08 8323 0158 [email protected] www.serafinowines.com.au stay • relax • indulge July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsTWO NEW ARTISANS THOMAS ANGOVE, MASTER INNOVATORARTISANS of Barossa - a band of small-batch winemakers JOY WALTERFANGdedicated to craft and region - has lifted its membership to 12 withthe addition of John Duval and Dutschke Wines. John was chief IT’S a fitting and timelywinemaker at Penfolds and only the third custodian of Grange tribute to Thomas Angove,before starting his own label in 2003, while Wayne Dutschke was who died on March 31,recently named Barossa Winemaker of the Year by his peers. aged 92, that the brandy judged the best in the The Artisans banded together in 2006 to advance small Australian section ofBarossa winemaking in a saturated market, but co-founder the Brandy and CognacDan Standish says the group has since gone beyond its tasting featured in thisoriginal goals. “Four years on, we have all grown in terms of issue of Winestate shouldproduction and profile in one of the most challenging times be the Angove’s St Agneswe have ever seen,” he says. “None of us has - or will - bow XO Very Old Brandy. Theto complacency, and we all have support from each other to judges commented thatmake sure that doesn’t happen.” this product would stand up against the very best For more information, see www.artisansofbarossa.com. brandies from anywhere in the world. In fact, threeNO KIDDING - A $125 PINOT of the six brandies receiving star ratings in this flight bear the St Agnes brand.ONE hundred and twenty five dollars for a bottle of WA pinot noir?You have to be joking. Not so, says Bob Peruch, principal of Batista Back in 1910, Thomas Angove’s father, Thomas “Skipper” Angove,Estate at Manjimup in the Great Southern. And he says it’s no branched out from the family’s then thriving wine business in thegimmick. “It’s a benchmark of my top wine - pride of product,” he Adelaide suburb of Tea Tree Gully and set up a distillery andsays. It’s not about making money. It’s there to show pinot lovers processing house in Renmark. The facility grew and soon developedwhat they can buy in Australia at a reasonable price. I reckon this a reputation for not only producing world-class brandies, but alsowine could cellar for 20-25 years or longer.” fine table wines and fortifieds and Stone’s Green Ginger Wine. Bob put the $125 tag on his 2007 Batista Estate reserve pinot When Thomas Angove took over the role of managing directorfollowing a tasting visit to Burgundy, where he tried numerous from his father in 1947, it was the catalyst for exciting newwines, some moderately priced, some expensive, up to $300 and developments for the company. Under Thomas’s guiding hand,$400 a bottle. He says his 2007 reserve - the first reserve he has Renmark soon became a major winemaking and distilling facility.produced since his first vintage in 1996 - could stand up againstthe leading French wines he tasted. Today Angove’s Pty Ltd is capable of processing 19,000 tonnes of grapes annually, with storage capacity for more than 15 million The key, he says, has been making three separate wine batches litres of wine and spirit, and has what once was the largest singlefrom his small vineyard for optimum quality selection. The best fruit vineyard in the southern hemisphere - the forerunner of broadacrecame from very tough, stony ground with very hard underground viticulture in Australia. In 1963, Thomas planted Australia’s firstshallow shale at the bottom of the block resulting in struggling ‘super’ vineyard - Nanya Vineyard, an amazing rectangle of landvine growth producing very low yields of small berries and small, containing 480 hectares of vines.open bunches. Thomas Angove is credited with being the ‘inventor’ of the Bob regards soil selection for premium pinot grape production Australian wine cask. In 1965 he patented the idea of storingas critical. For example, the top third of his pinot vineyard does wine in one gallon resealable plastic bags and putting them intonot produce “anywhere near the quality” of the prime bottom third. cardboard boxes. The idea was further developed by others overThe unirrigated, biologically grown Batista vineyard is on a hillside the years to become the familiar ‘bag in the box’ it is today. Thomasslope of a property that has been in the family since 1953 and was also pioneered the use of stainless steel tanks for storing wine; heused initially for grazing. was a truly innovative man. Angove’s is one of Australia’s largest privately owned family wine companies and the business has blossomed further under Thomas’s son John, who has been MD since 1983. But the family lineage does not stop there. Fifth-generation Victoria Angove ensures that the brand name continues to be a household word in Australia in her role as national accounts manager. Angove wines can be found in over 30 countries around the world. The death of Thomas Angove is a sad loss to Australian wine but what a legacy this amazing one-time patron of the industry has left behind.18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010



nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine scene NEW HISTORY NEW VINTAGE STIRS UP EXCITEMENT OF NZ WINE EARLY reports from around the country suggest 2010 has been “This is a book I have been a lighter than predicted, high-quality harvest. writing all my adult life,” says Keith Stewart in the preface Kumeu River, in west Auckland, praises the vintage as “truly of his new book, Chancers remarkable”. Spring frost and unfavourable weather during and Visionaries (Random flowering led to a crop only half the size of 2009, but summer House, $NZ49.99). Stewart’s was “spectacularly sunny, with the driest February and March on eighth wine book is the first record. The warm weather has allowed the grapes to ripen evenly history of wine in New Zealand with great concentration …” since Dick Scott’s pioneering Winemakers of New Zealand, Marlborough, in mid April, also reported a low-yielding harvest. published in 1964. “I would say the 2010 crops are lighter than first thought,” declared grower Peter Morice. “So far it has been a great season weather- A sturdy, softcover volume of wise. In early January we were thinking the fruit wouldn’t ripen,nearly 450 pages, Chancers and Visionaries is attractively illustrated because we were running a long way behind. But that hasn’tand extremely easy to read. Stewart brings the 1960s and 1970s, happened, thanks to the drawn-out Indian summer.”when New Zealand wine started to be fashionable, vividly to life. Cloudy Bay winemaker Nick Lane says the fruit benefited from By placing the winemakers of the past within their social context, a warm March. “Yields are down on previous years, particularlyhe demonstrates the extent to which the fledgling industry in the early-ripening varieties of chardonnay and pinot noir. Butwas hampered by the temperance movement and the political there is some real phenolic ripeness in pinot noir, and sauvignoninfluence of beer barons. He also offers the most detailed portraits blanc has classic flavours.”yet of several early-mid-19th century winemakers. SAUVIGNON GRIS ARRIVES But Chancers and Visionaries has some surprising errors.Montana absorbed its major rival, Corbans, in 2000 - not 1990, as PERNOD Ricard NZ hasstated by Stewart. The most glaring mistake is a claim that “the launched New Zealand’s firstmajority of New Zealand wine continues to be sold domestically”. In bottlings of an old Frenchthe year to mid-2009, the industry’s domestic sales of 59.7 million variety, sauvignon gris. Alsolitres were far outstripped by exports of 112.6 million. called sauvignon rose - due to its pink skin - sauvignon New Zealand still needs a comprehensive history of the modern, gris typically produces lesspost-war wine industry. Chancers and Visionaries doesn’t fill that aromatic, but more substantial,gap, but it does offer a long and highly enjoyable read. wines than sauvignon blanc. Pernod Ricard emphasises thatSUPERMARKETS ACCUSED OVER ALCOHOL “it is not a blend of sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, or aDOUG Sellman, professor of psychiatry and addiction medicine crossing either, but rather aat the University of Otago, has described supermarkets, which variety in its own right”.dominate wine sales in New Zealand, as “drug-pushers”. Enteringmost supermarkets, customers “are met at the front door by alcohol In Bordeaux, sauvignon gris is commonly used as a minorityadvertising or cheap alcohol products, and generally both”, he partner in dry white blends dominated by sauvignon blanc, but inwrote in the NZ Listener of April 10-16. In terms of its risk to public Chile, producers are bottling and exporting it as a varietal wine.health, Professor Sellman (who avoided using the words wine or “It’s got legs in the marketplace,” reports Patrick Materman, chiefbeer) classified alcohol, “our favourite recreational substance”, as winemaker for Pernod Ricard NZ. “The name catches people whoa class B drug, comparable to morphine and ecstasy. know sauvignon blanc and pinot gris. More importantly, it suits Marlborough, being fairly disease-resistant and ripening in the In his search for “Mr Big”, he put the spotlight on those who middle of the sauvignon blanc harvest.”are “dealing in drugs at street level”. After studying liquor ads inmetropolitan newspapers, he concluded: “New World is clearly out Montana Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Gris 2009 ($24)in front, followed by Woolworths/Countdown, then Super Liquor.” is fractionally crisper than its stablemate, Montana Showcase Series Marlborough Sauvignon Gris 2009 ($24). Both wines The solution, he argues, is not to ban alcoholic drinks, but restrict are weighty and finely textured, with ripely herbal flavours andtheir supply and sale. “In fact, there is a growing movement to very satisfying depth.return all supermarkets to their drug-free status of 20 years ago.”20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERBLURRED FOCUS - WHY BIGGER ISN’T BETTER FOR KIWISIS IT time New Zealand’s 675 wine writers … This is a far more sensible Some argue that the recent tidal waveproducers, until recently focused on investment of marketing resources than of low-priced Kiwi sauvignon blanc hasrelentless growth, slowed down? For 20 convention centre shows for high-volume not hurt the sales of established, higher-years, New Zealand’s wine exports have distribution outlets.” priced brands. Consumers buying thesoared at a compounding annual growth cheap stuff don’t care where the winerate of 24 per cent. Between 2009 and The global marketing strategy of New comes from; they just want a bargain.2014, New Zealand Winegrowers predicts Zealand Winegrowers is designedthat shipments will surge from 113 million to “meet the requirements of small, In the UK, New Zealand has stakedlitres (equivalent to 12.5 million cases) to medium and large wineries” by mounting out a profitable territory in the middle-175 million litres (over 19 million cases). promotions that support restaurants, upper price categories, achieving good independent retailers and multiple volume sales while preserving profitable New Zealand “is cementing its position as retailers. Last year, promotions were prices. A future challenge will be to fenda producer of decent quality cheap wine,” organised with groups of top restaurants off other, fast-improving sauvignon blancsays Mike Spratt, co-founder of Destiny in the UK, US and Japan. In Australia, producers, notably Chile and South Africa.Bay, a top red wine producer on Waiheke blind tastings of New Zealand wines,Island. In his view, the industry has paid with international benchmarks, were Exports of bulk wine are a morea huge price for its success in breaking organised for sommeliers. pressing concern. Over the past twothe $NZ1 billion export barrier in 2009: years, of the total growth in wine exports“Inflation-adjusted prices per litre have Chris Yorke, global marketing director of 40 million litres, bulk wine accounteddeclined by 46 per cent since 2001.” of New Zealand Winegrowers, agrees for 30 million. “That means 75 per cent with Mike Spratt that New Zealand is not of New Zealand’s wine export growth has been in bulk wine,” says Philip Gregan,We are in the process of turning supermarkets from CEO of New Zealand Winegrowers. “We have handed control or are inour very important customers into our competitors. the process of handing control over to the buyers of that bulk wine and, Mike, who has a doctorate in psychology suited to the profitable production of low- in Australia and the UK, those buyersfrom the University of California at priced wine. In Australia, Chris points out, are largely supermarkets. We are inBerkeley, was previously a senior partner New Zealand wine trades at an average the process of turning supermarketsin PriceWaterhouseCooper’s global price premium of 35 per cent, and in UK from our very important customersmergers and acquisitions consulting off-licence retailers, New Zealand’s white into our competitors.”business. “What attractive wine wines sell for 40 per cent more than thecategories can New Zealand be first in?” average price. He defends New Zealand Should bulk wine exports be banned?he wrote in New Zealand Winegrower. Winegrowers’ marketing activities on Philip says no. “The government just“The answer is not sauvignon blanc the grounds that over 250 wineries, wouldn’t do it.” And if the surplus winethat tastes grassy. New Zealand might accounting for more than 95 per cent of couldn’t be exported in bulk, it would endlead in making that wine, but it is not exports, support them. “The predominantly up flooding the domestic market.a financially attractive category. It has user-pays system of funding … means thatlimited price elasticity, is not regarded as our programme has to be a cost-effective David Cox, Europe director fora premium variety that commands lofty use of a winery’s scarce marketing dollars. New Zealand Winegrowers, like Mikeprices, and New Zealand is ill-equipped Where it is, wineries will join; where it is Spratt has called on the industry toto be the low-cost producer.” not, they won’t.” reinvent its wine brand. He favours the ‘masstige’ approach, where you “take He believes that New Zealand, as a Has the recent heavy discounting of a prestige brand and make it availablesmall-scale producer, should shift its focus Marlborough sauvignon blanc hurt New to the greater mass market throughto the top end of the world’s wine markets. Zealand’s wine image? “New Zealand has distribution points, but without going“New Zealand should be the leader in bastardised its reputation in the UK in the into commodity areas.”penetrating prestigious restaurants and past year,” reports wine importer Davidin cultivating relationships with influential Gleave, of Liberty Wines. That would position New Zealand as a sort of BMW of the wine world - or maybe the Jack Daniel’s. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 21

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWFRANCE MAKES A FORAY INTO THE NEW WORLD OF BLENDING AND LABELLINGTHERE’S excitement in France over of flexibility, which New World countries War I, falling to just 6000 hectares. By 2000,the new Vin de France category, in have been able to do forever, and more it had recovered slowly to 33,105 hectares.effect from the 2009 vintage, which competitively, which needs to happen atmeans wines are coming onto the this quality/price level. The category will After decimation by phylloxera, and aftermarket now. The category has been help build and promote brands in France”. World War I, recovery was slow. The frontcreated as a result of massive wine line had gone through the region, and bysector reform in the European Union, One sauvignon blanc producer who the end of the war two key export marketswhich is seeing large-scale voluntary has already taken advantage of the inter- were closed off: Russia due to the Revolutionuprooting, and the phasing out of regional blending opportunity is Lacheteau (1917) and the US due to prohibition (1920 tosubsidy support mechanisms which in the Loire Valley, which produces a wine 1933). With a brief interlude of the glitteringcounter overproduction. called Kiwi Cuvee, so named because a ’20s, global recession soon followed in 1929, New Zealand winemaker put the original and World War II a decade later. In France, underneath the Appellation blend together from Loire fruit. Tim North,d’Origine Controlee wines (which are to managing director of the brand’s owner, So it was only in the 1950s that peoplebecome Appellation d’Origine Protegee) Les Grands Chais de France, says the Vin started to replant. If ever there is a wineand Vin de Pays (which are to become de France category has given them “the product associated with a kind economy, at home and abroad, Champagne isFor commercial brands it’s a real opportunity to improve it, though war, recession and anti-quality and do exactly what Australia has been doing. alcohol lobbies are friends of no wine producer. During the 2009 recession,Indication Geographique Protegee) lies ability to produce better blends that are total Champagne shipments were downbasic table wine. Until the 2009 vintage, more consistent vintage after vintage. For 15 per cent on 2008, though shipments totable wine could give no details of its commercial brands it’s a real opportunity the US were down 30 per cent, with bothgrape variety composition or its year to improve quality and do exactly what this market and Germany falling to theirof harvest, which, it has been argued, Australia has been doing with ‘South East respective early 1990 levels.makes it difficult to create and market Australia’ for several decades”.strong wine brands effectively. Thanks But it was in those bright, glittering 1920sto the innovative marketing techniques of Staying in France, there’s been a lot of that the Appellation d’Origine Controleethe New World in the 1980s and 1990s, kerfuffle about the proposed expansion of was set up, along with a map drawn up inmany consumers around the world buy the Champagne delimited region, currently 1927. Though it’s unofficial, it is the map stilltheir wines by grape variety rather than standing at just over 33,000 hectares. At being used today. It listed more than 30,000appellation such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, a recent industry update session, Bruno hectares as being capable of growingCotes du Rhone or Ribera del Duero. Paillard, president of the commission for vines for Champagne. Now, in the early communication and the appellation at the 21st century, those unofficial boundaries This is a major change at the price- CIVC (Comite interprofessionnel du vin de are bulging and bursting at their braces,fighting end of French production. Not Champagne) and owner of Champagne as shipments show. In 1950, Champagneonly can grape varieties and vintage be Bruno Paillard, explained the process: shipments were just 33.4 million bottles, andincorporated as part of the label and brand this had grown to 293 million bottles in 2009.proposition, but blends can be put together In the 18th century it is estimated thefrom a mix of French regions (and the Champagne region was around 80,000 In 2003 INAO, the organisation thatsame rules apply in other European Union hectares. At this time the region was oversees appellation legislation, started acountries). Chris Skyrme, who represents producing still wine. Early documents study to revisit the Champagne boundarythe organisation promoting the new Vin de reveal the planted surface in 1822 was issue and confirm which villages areFrance, said producers using sauvignon 65,700 hectares, by which time Champagne eligible. At the start of 2010 the list hadblanc “were already taking advantage of was moving from still to sparkling wine not been finalised. Bruno Paillard is keeninter-regional blending”, adding that the production. But after late 19th century to reassure, saying, “We are convincednew Vin de France category “has this level devastation by phylloxera, the vineyard area Champagne is unique. This is something reached its nadir at the beginning of World that refers to history, it is fair to the past. It will not lower the average quality of Champagne. The idea is to make it greater. And that takes time.”22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

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winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYGRENACHE, AN UNSUNG HERO ON AUSTRALIA’S WINE LANDSCAPEON A RECENT episode of the American notes with more gritty tannins, although you Dave Powell at Torbreck is anotherGrape Radio an American sommelier-cum- don’t want to pick too early,” says Chester. grenache fan, but this time utilising thewinemaker described his “eureka” moment “At around 12.5 to 13 degrees baume they richness of old vine material available inand the wine behind it. Rounding up the can be quite interesting wines with very the Barossa Valley. Drawing his inspirationusual suspects, I expected to hear him talk good acidity. As you get to around 13.5 to from both the northern and southernabout tasting a Chateau Latour, Le Pin or 15 degrees you get darker fruits and thicker Rhone wines, he makes an impressiveperhaps a DRC (Domaine Romanee Conti). wines with more character, but the sand line-up of intense and stylish wines, withHowever, I was pleasantly surprised to learn still gives them a beautiful fragrance and grenache playing its part in a number ofit was one of our own local unsung heroes: length. The really low-yielding vineyards labels. Les Amis, for example, is 100 perd’Arenberg’s The Custodian 1998. This 100 are best picked not too ripe, around 13.5 cent grenache from a Seppeltsfield blockper cent grenache wine from McLaren Vale to 14 degrees.” planted in 1901.made me wonder about the greatness ofwhat is regarded by some as a blending and We need to celebrate quality grenache, As love affairs go, Australia andotherwise workhorse variety. So who better especially wines sourced from old vines, as grenache are there for the long term. Weto put the question to than its winemaker and we do with shiraz in the Barossa, for example. tied the knot and planted it to produceMcLaren Vale authority, Chester Osborn? So in 2004 McLaren Vale established the fortified wines in our colonial days; Cadenzia project, which applies to top plantings in the Vale go back to the All great wines reflect their terroir, so does label wines that are grenache-based. Last 1850s. But as their popularity faded, itsgrenache respond to various environments? year a certification program was launched, versatility came to the fore and is used forWell, it is found internationally in mainly which involves the wines being assessed rose as well as for table wines.Spain, France and Italy. It is planted on in each vintage by a panel consisting ofvarious soils, such as the calcareous winemakers and a prominent Master of Grenache runs second to Spanish airenalluvial sandstones of southern Rhone and Wine. Cadenzia’s chairman Peter Fraser, as the world’s most widely planted variety.the schist-like quartz and slate licorella soils winemaker at Yangarra Estate, hopes theof Priorat (or Priorato) in northern Spain. certification process will “encourage wines A sample of the worldwide ‘hot spots’ for grenache includes Rioja, NavarraAs love affairs go, Australia and grenache are there and Priorat in Spain; and Cote du Rhone, Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Tavelfor the long term. We tied the knot and planted it to in France. It makes fortified vin doux natural wines in Rasteau, Banyuls and Maury inproduce fortified wines in our colonial days. southern France. The grape also pops up in Paso Robles in California. In Australia, Chester highlights the that showcase the region and highlight theBlewitt Spings sub-region at McLaren diversity and individual nature of grenache”. In Chateauneuf-du-Pape, grenache oftenVale: “Its sand and clay soil works well. opens the batting on the 13 authorisedWhen they haven’t been fertilised the Grenache buds early but ripens later than grape varieties that can make up the blend.sands give very good aromatics and when cabernet sauvignon, which explains the Its most common blending partners arethe yields are kept right back they get very potential for the grapes to have high sugar shiraz (syrah) mourvedre and cinsault,solid, vibrant tannins.” Low-fertility soils content; and fermented to dryness means GSM being a common acronym used inare necessary for grenache as it can easily high alcohol levels. It also means you need Australia for this Rhone blend.produce big clusters and high yields. The a long, dry autumn, avoiding botrytis whichmaritime influence is another factor: the can affect the tight berry clusters. It is suited So has grenache the power to inspire?grapes ripen earlier closer to the sea and to bush vine viticulture, it has thick, wooded Chester Osborn certainly thinks so.produce rich, fuller wines, but this factor trunks and grows upright. The grape seems “When it’s done well it certainly surprisescan be tempered in cooler vintages to adaptable to heat and drought, making it people, but some people have abusedproduce more elegant wines. ideal for South Australia, especially McLaren grenache and made it overripe or light and Vale and the Barossa Valley. In fact, outside confectionary. When it ages it develops Altering the picking times provides our large irrigated regions you don’t find a sweet and spicy character, which isdifferent flavours as well. “When picked much grenache in states like Victoria, very enveloping and can match very wellearly, grenache displays red fruits and spicy Western Australia or New South Wales. with some difficult foods such as Indian curries. Like all great wines, it can be challenging and inspiring - and wine should be challenging.”24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGMORE THAN EVER, EAT YOUR HEART OUT IN FIJITHE GLOBAL success of Fiji Water, the with the comment, “This is Paris standard.” all activities work up a keen appetite. You canfavourite bottled water of celebs and Barack This was far from being a one-off; we enjoyed opt for the main restaurant, a private diningObama, is a great metaphor for the island barista benchmark java at every single hotel experience in your bure or an outdoor beachnation’s development as a multi-level tourist we stayed at. venue overlooking Lesiacava Point, as we did.destination. Now outselling Evian water in the Many Fijian resorts grow their own vegetables,US, the 14-year-old brand founded by David Many flights from Australia’s east coast so to start I ordered a blue cheese and rocketGilmour, owner of the very exclusive Wakaya arrive late in the day or you have to get up salad, which could not have been fresher.Club, ranks as the Mercedes-Benz of bottled at sparrow’s for an early morning trip to the While my fellow diners indulged in walu, a farwaters. An aspirational thirst-quencher with outer islands. There’s no better place to flop tastier version of Spanish mackerel than ourstrategic placements on popular TV shows in style than the Fiji Orchid. Only 15 minutes’ own, in various sauces. I ordered a polentasuch as Sex and the City and Entourage that drive from Nadi International Airport, the in a cheese and fresh vegetable sauce thathas acted as something of a spearhead in exclusive hideaway could be half an ocean would have received the thumbs-up in Italy. Alifting the sophistication of Fiji’s image. away. The five star resort was once the flavourful mango sorbet finished off a perfect island home of Raymond Burr, star of the night under the stars. Visit www.fijiresort.com. Fiji has long catered to two types of traveller long-running TV shows Perry Mason and- the mega-rich and trust fund babes (Bill Ironside. His former house has morphed Out on nearby Hibiscus Highway standsand Melinda Gates honeymooned there) into a gourmet restaurant, and six chic bures Namale, the sort of luxury resort that sheltersand families seeking affordable holidays on (each measuring 300 square metres) are celebs when they need a rest or their livesidyllic beaches and faraway islands. Australia hidden in the burly actor’s orchid garden. have fallen apart. Owned by hyperactiveis by far the major tourism market for Fiji, motivational speaker Anthony Robbins, theaccounting for 46 per cent of international Owner Jenny Leewai Bourke and her resort is located on a natural coastal upliftvisitors, with the Kiwis and Americans filling brother Gordon, who also operate the luxury so all the bures and villas are perched three private island resort of Nukubati, have turnedA nice touch following dessert was warm liquid chocolate in small shot glasses,instead of just another after-dinner truffle.second and third places. Increasingly, Raymond’s Restaurant into a magnet for lovers to six metres above sea level for textbookthough, major international chains like Westin of Pacific fusion cuisine. Our dinner started ‘views to die for’. The air-conditionedand InterContinental have set up shop in the with a sort of Fijian mezze plate of kokoda entertainment centre, aka the Kava Bowl, isPacific’s most popular tourism destination to (the Fijian version of raw fish salad), scallops a big boys’ playground comprising a gym,offer plush surroundings, world-class cuisine wrapped in taro leaves and mussels in a spicy simulated golf course and full-size bowlingand wines at prices that won’t blow your sauce. But the main course was the type of alley for whiling away any rainy days.budget out of the water. Many local resorts dish you dribble about - the freshest lobsterhave followed suit, too. Can you afford a slice piqued only with lemon and black pepper Dinner is served close to the immaculatelyof paradise with all the trimmings. In Fiji, yes. so the natural juices were left to pop in the manicured reception and the welcoming drink mouth. For dessert, who would have thought is Veuve Clicquot. Namale is a honeymoon I hadn’t been to Fiji for 10 years before a that cassava cubes could taste that good in hotspot so don’t expect the restaurant torecent visit. Way back then, hotels and resorts a caramel sauce? Go to www.fijiorchid.com. be overpopulated. We dined al fresco onserved food that was good enough but didn’t a deck with expansive ocean views. Stillhave anyone reaching for the superlatives. The following day we headed to Savusavu. testing the home-grown veggies, I plumpedWine choices, too, were limited to the Or, more precisely, the Jean-Michel Cousteau for a chicken caesar salad (top notch) andproducts of canny wine companies who had Fiji Islands Resort, easily the finest upscale followed through with walu in a Pacific-stylealmost exclusively sewn up Fiji’s wine lists. family resort in the South Pacific. Sure, there’s meuniere sauce, which went well with aThe first sign that things had changed - a a superb kids’ club and acitivity program for Kiwi sav blanc. Wandering back to my mini-lot - appeared in the most unlikely of places: the little ones, but the accommodation options mansion with its own swimming pool, I wasthe airport. Desperate for a cup of coffee, range from a huge bure with a porch and too relaxed to operate the drop-down moviewe raced to a coffee bar to order some flat hammock to super-luxury villas standing in screen. See www.namalefiji.com.whites. Like most people, I don’t expect much splendid isolation at the far end of the property.from airport cafes anywhere. But after the first The InterContinental Resort Fiji openedsip, one of my colleagues got in before me Days and early evenings can be spent about 18 months ago at Natadola on the snorkelling, diving, reef walking or lazing, but Coral Coast, which claims to be Fiji’s best26 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

Our Favourite everyday wines... a range of fine wines for every occassion.beach. The 640-hectare property includes a McLaren Valegolf course designed by local sporting hero,golfer Vijay Singh. Dinner was a visual feast, Restaurant • Resort • Conference Centre • Winerytoo, in the resort’s signature Navo restaurantwith its spectacular views of the surrounding Kangarilla Road, McLarenVale SA 5171lagoon. To get to your table you have to runa food and beverage gauntlet, including P 08 8323 0157 F 08 8323 0158a wine wall (top bottlings from around theworld), a sashimi/sushi bar and fresh meat [email protected] so you know your steak will be thickand juicy. Most of my fellow diners went for www.serafinowines.com.authe sushi because of a recently acquiredaddiction to Fijian seafood, but I couldn’t stay • relax • indulgemove past the vegetarian special of thenight - a tian of taro leaves and cassava. Theimpeccable presentation was matched bythe taste. A nice touch following dessert waswarm liquid chocolate in small shot glasses,instead of just another after-dinner truffle.Visit www.ichotelsgroup.com. Many visitors begin or end a vacation orbusiness trip to Fiji on Denarau Island, a300-hectare spread of brochure-perfectbeaches, top-class resorts, a marina andgolf course located about half an hour’sdrive from Nadi Airport. Sheraton practically‘owns’ a large chunk of the real estate withits own eponymous Westin and SheratonVillas brands. We flaked out at the Westin,but dined at the Flying Fish restaurant at theSheraton Fiji. The full island meal dream ofa thatched bure, feet in the sand under thestars and food to match. There’s a Pacificedge but ‘sun cuisines’ from around theworld get a look-in with fusion dishes such asa French-style tart with feta. Nearly all of uschose the prawn curry, expertly spiced andagain a showcase of Fiji’s seafood. Walkingback along the beach to the Westin, it washard not to get teary as the staff sang IsaLei, the Fijian farewell song, to every tableof departing guests. Getting there: V Australia, the only fullservice airline servicing Fiji, flies to Nadi sixtimes a week from Sydney. Passengers fromother capital cities can coordinate flightswith Virgin Blue. For the best seasonal fares,visit www.vaustralia.com.au. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 27

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELTHE GILLARD FAMILY: A FORGOTTEN WINE DYNASTY PART ONE TODAY, if you mention the name Sylvania wines won many awards over Gillard was one of four foundation‘Gillard’ to wine drinkers they’ll almost the years, both at home and abroad. They members of the wine committee of thecertainly think of Australia’s Deputy included one in Paris in 1867 for a chablis, Royal Agricultural and HorticulturalPrime Minister. But in the 19th and early a Certificate of Award at the International Society, serving from 1871 until 1891,20th centuries the name was prominent Exhibition in Philadelphia in 1876, and when he resigned in favour of his sonin the South Australian wine world. medals at the International Exhibition, William. He was also a member of theJoseph Gillard snr was the first of three Sydney, 1879 and the Agricultural Vinegrowers’ Association.generations of Gillards who worked in Society of New South Wales in 1870.the wine industry, most of whom were at In South Australia at Adelaide’s wine Joseph Gillard snr is believed to havePenfolds at some time or other. And four show, Gillard was the most successful made at least one visit back to the UnitedGillards served on the wine committee of exhibitor in 1864, 1867 and 1869, with his Kingdom, in 1890. Home in South Australia,the Royal Agricultural and Horticultural Sherry, Sauterne and Constantia winning he took up residence at Clarendon, whereSociety of South Australia for a total of particularly high awards. he died in January 1897. Tributes flowed.107 years. Sorting them out is difficult, The minutes of a committee meeting of thewith conflicting details about dates being Today’s makers of dessert wines may society shortly after his death recorded thata problem for historians. be interested to know that, in 1880, “in “Mr Gillard was one of those who had made making his sweet wines, he uses a method the wine industry in South Australia what it The patriarch in Australia, JosephGillard snr, was born in Devon in 1820, He always chooses a hot day to gather his cropand arrived in Adelaide in April 1849 and to crush while the grapes are still hot - thuswith his very pregnant wife and their securing more rapid fermentation and a greatertwo-year-old son Joseph jnr. Later that percentage of natural spirit.year he bought a property in Norwood,on the eastern outskirts of Adelaide, on diametrically opposed to most - he always was … he had turned out wine that was athe corner of what is now Kensington chooses a hot day to gather his crop and credit to Australia”. Another speaker said thatRd and George St. Calling his property to crush while the grapes are still hot - thus “when their late fellow member undertook toSylvania (silva is Latin for ‘a wood’), securing more rapid fermentation and do anything he did it thoroughly, and hein either 1851 (probably) or 1858, he a greater percentage of natural spirit”. had turned out some of the best wine everplanted about eight acres with muscatel, Figures for Gillard’s production are hard made in South Australia”. He was buried inverdelho, mataro, frontignac, sweetwater to find, but in the 1876 vintage he crushed the graveyard at Clayton Congregationaland shiraz. 70 tons of grapes, some of which he Church, Norwood, also the final resting place purchased from other growers. These of possibly South Australia’s most important Using timber from the property, he produced some 13,000 gallons of wine. 19th-century winemaker, Dr Alexander Kelly.built wine cellars between 1859 and Both graves are today unmarked, and lie1868, with an underground storage In 1882 Joseph Gillard bought the under the church carpark.area 80 feet long and 25 feet wide, and Clarendon Vineyard in the hills south ofa section at each end at right angles Adelaide, paying £3790 for its 40 acres Two of Joseph Gillard snr’s sons followedmeasuring 40 by 25 feet. It was one of of vines. The vineyard, planted in 1850, in their father’s footsteps and entered thethe largest in the colony. Joseph came will be the subject of a future article. He wine industry. They were Joseph Gillardfrom a county not known for winemaking, must have been a busy man, managing jnr (1846-1927), who had a long andand his background was not as a two vineyards. Furthermore, one source distinguished career at Penfolds Grangehorticulturist, let alone a winemaker, but says that from 1883 he also managed Sir vineyard, and his stepbrother, Williamas a wheelwright. One source suggests Samuel Davenport’s Beaumont vineyard in Henry Gillard (1858-1934).that “his early work for Penfolds Wines the Adelaide foothills, but so far I have notsparked sufficient interest for him to been able to confirm this. We’ll hear about them and the rest of theenter the industry in his own right”. Gillards next time.When and what this “early work” was Ido not know.28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

CIAO ITALIA! Italy 2010 WINE TOUR OF ITALY 11 September - 29 September 2010 - in conjunction with The Australian newspaper & Travelrite International. Hosted by Winestate editor/publisher Peter Simic, the 15-night tour frommid-September features fascinating and informative visits to Rome, Umbria (Orvieto) and fabulous Tuscany (Montalcino & Montepulciano) for Brunello and Chianti and visits to Siena and Florence. Then onto the Piemonte region (Alba) for Barolo and Barbaresco; a visit to Turin before moving across to the spectacular Lake Garda, our base for visits to northern Alto Adige and the eastern Verona region, near Venice. We will sample the wines, meet the winemakers and enjoy local cuisine while exploring towns and villages in the best Italian tradition. We stay in quality hotels in Rome, Siena, Florence, Parma, Alba, Milan and Riva del Garda. Peter Simic will open doors not normally available to tourists and ensure you have a rewarding and exciting time in outstanding surroundings. Peter’s knowledgeable and caring leadership will make this one of your best-ever wine & food holidays!To check out individual winery visits go to www.winestate.com.au and click on the link.

GISBORNE GETSOFF THE ROPESNew initiatives revitalise prospects in the ‘chardonnay capital’MICHAEL COOPER John Clarke, president of the Gisborne and has called on the region’s cellar door Winegrowers Society, stresses that operators to address their irregular hoursF R O M G I S B O R N E , on the east Gisborne as a wine region is not “dead in and lack of food for visitors. the water - in fact it’s far from that. Therecoast of the central North Island, to the are small wineries that aren’t affected by In another positive move, more than 20northernmost tip of New Zealand at Cape this at all …” But he predicted last August Gisborne grapegrowers - mostly thoseReinga is a two-day drive, covering nearly that Gisborne’s 2010 grape harvest would dropped by the big companies - have1000km. The wine regions of the upper drop by a fifth: “The generally accepted formed a new company, Growco, to makeNorth Island - Gisborne, Waikato, Auckland figure seems to be a cut of 5000 tonnes, or and market their own wines. Their firstand Northland - have only 10 per cent of the 20 per cent of the Gisborne crop.” vintage will flow in 2010.country’s vineyard area, but over a quarterof the wine producers. Since then, the news from New Zealand’s At the helm of the new venture is Hugh third-largest wine region has been upbeat. Ammundsen, who was born in Gisborne Gisborne winegrowers, fighting back after a The promotional organisation, Wines and has a long background in banking andmajor slump in the demand for their keynote of Gisborne, has appointed a full-time corporate finance. “Instead of pulling allvariety, are searching for a new identity. In marketing director, Simon Gardiner, who was their grapes up or hoping someone downJune 2009, Pernod Ricard NZ announced it formerly senior brand manager, Australian the track will be willing to buy them,” hewas slashing its intake of Gisborne grapes, wine, for Fosters Group in Auckland. Now says, “the growers will be looking to growreflecting a steep decline in the demand for working on “exciting initiatives” for a style their own product and keep control ofchardonnay, exacerbated by the oversupply of wine that will give Gisborne a point of their own destiny.” A former Mastermindof sauvignon blanc from regions further difference, Simon also plans a Wines of runner-up - whose special topic wassouth. Other large companies, including Gisborne information centre for tourists, Champagne - Hugh also owns a smallConstellation NZ, also announced cutbacks. vineyard, Doubtless Bay, in the Far North.30 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

Although long promoted as the reports a sales drop of 30-40 per cent in due to excess stocks. A syrah specialist‘chardonnay capital of New Zealand’, the past two years. removed almost all its vines, finding it cheaperGisborne also has substantial plantings of to buy the grapes from Hawke’s Bay. A largefour aromatic white grape varieties: pinot The rolling hill country of Clevedon, in producer has abandoned its 2010 grape crop.gris (particularly), gewurztraminer, muscat south Auckland, enjoys a reputation forand viognier. David Egan, proprietor of plummy, earthy and savoury merlots, There is better news from Waiheke Island,Bushmere Estate, believes Gisborne will which can be distinctly Bordeaux-like. in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf. “Things are insoon be known as “the aromatic capital However, the area’s largest vineyard good heart,” reports Neill Culley, of Cableof the country”. was uprooted recently, and other small Bay, who believes the island has marked producers have ceased wine production, climatic advantages, and “the quality of In Auckland - the other sizeable wine leasing out their vineyards. Puriri Hills, the the visitor experience has been greatlyregion in the north - chardonnay is the most source of silky, very elegant and highly enhanced in recent years”. The newcomers,widely planted variety, accounting for 22 concentrated reds, is the only prestigious such as Destiny Bay and The Hay Paddock,per cent of the vineyard area. However, producer that grows all its grapes and are quality-focused, and many of the island’sfour classic red wine grapes of Bordeaux - makes its wine within the Clevedon district. producers have added Marlboroughmerlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc sauvignon blanc and Central Otago pinotand malbec - together account for nearly North of Auckland city, the Matakana district noir to their export portfolios.40 per cent of plantings, and syrah also is known for ripe, rounded pinot gris and rich,has an expanding presence (8 per cent). spicy, earthy reds. Here, too, there are clear Above: At Waimauku, in west Auckland, reflections of just how tough it is in today’s West Brook produces estate-grown chardonnays Auckland winegrowers, like Gisborne’s, wine market. One winery pulled out a chunk that are consistently outstanding.have been hard-hit by the recession. One of vines to create extra space for functions,well-regarded, small red wine specialist but still chose not to pick any grapes in 2009, UPPER NORTH ISLAND TASTING STARTS PAGE 136. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 31

WRITERS, BLOGGERS & TWEETERSAndrew Corrigan MW observes the current decline of wine writing in mainstreamnewspapers and magazines and the excitement of some about the growing democraticwine commentary available in blogs and twitters.THINGS ARE CHANGING last year, said the proliferation of bloggers that certain consumers wish to learn about was changing wine publishing - “Anyone actual wines to purchase and also winein the world of wine reviewing. Wine can get online and pontificate about culture. A tough fact is that the higher-columns in mainstream newspapers are wine.” She believes that blog sites that earning demographic sectors buy moredisappearing. Wine columns that still amalgamate consumer comments (such wine and also higher-priced wine - and theyexist have been shortened - and many as cellartracker.com and vinfolio.com) are busy people who want a businesslikehave become “shopping lists” (a very are the biggest threat to “expert” wine presentation of wine list suggestions andshort comment or two followed by a list commentators. Are blogs replacing wine wine stories. Often they are time-poor. It isof suggested wines and prices). writing and reviews? Are blogs, tweets and pretty clear from browsing blogs that the the web a good source of information? What commentators and readers are not time- Over the years, wine writers have will happen to wine columns in magazines poor - and they have a predilection forhad themselves to blame, by writing and newspapers? cheaper wines.irrelevant articles for the reader - eithersycophantic worship reviews on wines At present my suggested answers to the I’d say there is an instantaneousimpossible to obtain, or too basic when above questions are “Yes”; “No”; “They will contradiction here - premium wines andthe reader is looking for infotainment! wither away except in demographic sector small-producer wines are sought by higher-Meanwhile, there is a new and growing publications such as the financial press”; income consumers - but the blogging sitesvolume of commentary on wine on the “Pretty good because it is a high-quality, are geared towards a different sector:web - and especially in blogging sites reliable, specialty source of information”. consumers who are seeking a bargainand via Twitter. and have time to turn their wine interest Lest you consider me to be an old fart into an e-social activity. Perhaps this is Famous English writer Jancis Robinson who does not face up to new technology, why wine producers have been slow toMW, in her address to the Wine I’d better clear up the principles and hard embrace blogs and tweets.Communicators of Australia (formerly the facts. A principle of wine commentating isNSW Wine Press Club) in Sydney in May32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010



I’ve spent a lot of time reading blog reviews as “sound”, “good booze”, “serious booze”, And then, of course, the pro-bloggingof wines I know. There are two problems. and a browser can’t get a relative rating. fraternity lectures us that we “just don’tFirst, the reviews are very long, with lots of get it”. This smacks of a well-known,personal lifestyle comment that is irrelevant Earlier, I described Jancis Robinson frequently repeated trend - the edict byto the wine. Second, the reviews are not very noting Cellartracker and Vinfolio. a wine commentator to the disciples thatgood; they are usually gushing in enthusiasm Cellartracker amalgamates wine reviews he/she is the new messiah and everythingand technically poor. I’ve read wonderful from published sources that require a previously taught about wine should be tornaccounts of taste in wine that I know is fee (such as Robinson’s Purple Pages) down to make way for the new commentaryfaulty and smelly (and beginners in my wine and itself requires a fee - so it is hardly a (delivered by the new guru). American wineappreciation class picked up this unpleasant blogging site as commonly defined (blogs columnist Matt Kramer, writing in the Winetaste immediately, so I’m not being obscure). are free). Vinfolio was also a wine sale site Spectator in November 2005, used theI found it difficult to get a calibration on and in January 2010 filed in the US for expression “Barbarians at the Cork”. Thequality, because the writers use terms such bankruptcy - a sign of the difficulty of blogs essence of Kramer’s story is that a new being a commercial enterprise.34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

[The obvious ploy by younger wine writers and promoters who criticise older ways is to demonstrate their hipness by portraying ]older wine lovers as doddering fools.breed of younger wine commentators is the celebrity winemakers (and their dogs), branch out to sites with the regular bestsetting out to appeal to younger consumers the seriousness, the cellars - it all exists wine writing (www.vinography.com). There(and, of course, to sell their wine books and to prop up the social rituals and structure are also awards for the best winery blogpublications in the process) by rubbishing (or is it the wreckage?) that go with the (www.benchlandblog.com - a Sonoma,any older wine commentators. phenomenon that wine has become today.” California, winery). The latter is a good tool for existing fans of a winery to stay in It is true that there have been some terrible, The respected serious mag, The touch - and in Australia a good example ofsnobbish, older wine commentators over Economist, wondered whether the process blog/tweet is Teusner - the Barossa-basedthe years, but it is wrong to describe older itself of distributing information and learning old-vine producer.commentators as “tossers”, as they were had changed (“The net generation,by Matt Skinner, the wine waiter and writer unplugged”, 6 March 2010). They answer I learnt about one danger of Twitter recently.from chef Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen, that it hasn’t. A separate article in the same I conducted a masterclass of quite a largein The Observer newspaper. Richard magazine (“Blog Mining”, 11 March 2010) group, and a couple of nerdy guys keptBranson of Virgin Airways has a similar discusses an algorithm that analyses a disappearing to go to the bathroom. I latermarketing technique: he has released his high volume of blogs and tries to sift out heard that they were sending repeatedwine brand Virgin Vines in the US with the ones that contain useful information. The tweets to friends about the wines we weremotto, “Unscrew it, let’s do it” and “Wine, problem with most blogs, as defined in tasting. These guys prefer to use the loolike life, is meant to be enjoyed. All the the article, is that the bloggers are more cubicle, where they sit down to do thepomp and ceremony currently associated interested in telling a personal story than business a la female and of course, bothwith wine just gets in the way of enjoying it.” recording useful information. By tallying thumbs are available for the keyboard. At the up the frequencies of parts of speech such end of the tasting, everyone left and I cleaned As Kramer says, “How easy it is to pretend as pronouns (I, she, we) and past-tense and turned out the lights and stepped outsidethat in order to save the village you first verbs (went, said, thought) in these flagged - where the guys were waiting for their lasthave to destroy it. Everything that once blogs, it is possible to distinguish between member, who was still inside in the loo,existed about wine is worse than worthless; the two types, regardless of what the story tweeting away. I had locked him in!it must be eliminated in the name of wine is actually about, These operators are thedemocratisation. It’s a conspiracy to mystify party people who are noisy and egocentric;it for everyone, you see. And anybody who there is a high volume of noise but littlemight believe, or even suggest, that there’s reliable, useful information. Talkback radiomerit to the old ways is a snob.” producers (such as at ABC local radio) describe a certain type who dominates the The obvious ploy by younger wine telephone calls - they are not representativewriters and promoters who criticise older of the population but they happen to beways is to demonstrate their hipness by very motivated to make a telephone call.portraying older wine lovers as dodderingfools who have prevented the world from You can investigate yourself. Whileenjoying wine. In his book, The Perfect there are thousands of blogging sites onGlass of Wine, young Australian writer wine, there is a site that reviews them andBen Canaider writes, “All the ephemera issues awards and recommendations - seesurrounding wine - the language, the Tom Wark’s Fermentation (fermentation.pretentiousness, the books, the guides, the typepad.com). From this site you cannewspaper columns, the lifestyle liftouts, July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 35

search for an identityDivorced from Coonawarra,Wrattonbully struggles for recognition

JENI PORT Wrattonbully has just one winery (his) founder of Petaluma, waged a long and and no cellar doors. Wine visitors generally expensive campaign to have Petaluma’sO N C E I T W A S Coonawarra. steer around it, choosing Coonawarra and Sharefarmers Vineyard included in Padthaway instead. You can understand why. Coonawarra and not Wrattonbully duringAnd because it was part of Coonawarra the fierce boundary debate in the 1990s.it enjoyed all the recognition and status Adding to its woes, the name Wrattonbully He went all the way to the Administrativethat went with it. Then in 2002 it was is rarely seen on wine labels. Most of the Appeals Tribunal which, in 2001, finallydeemed not to be part of Coonawarra region’s fruit is grown for the corporates, saw it his way.at all. It became Wrattonbully. namely Constellation and Foster’s, who blend it away in big-selling brands. Two years later and in a new wine The cut was clean legally - although not Constellation’s Stonehaven brand, business called Tapanappa, Brianeveryone involved agreed it was necessary headquartered in Padthaway, is believed persuaded his partners, Jean-Michelor desirable - but ever since, this wine to take a fairly significant amount of fruit Cazes of Chateau Lynch-Bages andregion has struggled to find its place under from the region. Societe Jacques Bollinger, parenta new identity. If wine drinkers give it any company of the Champagne house,consideration at all it is usually to describe Australia’s ninth largest company, Bollinger, to buy one of Wrattonbully’sWrattonbully as “that” region, the one that Yalumba, is something of an exception. pioneer vineyards, Koppamurra. Plantedused to be in Coonawarra, the one with the The region features in wines under its Smith in 1974, Koppamurra had enjoyedfunny name. They stumble over it, some and Hooper label, as well as its hand- modest success, something that changedtorturously pronouncing “Raddon-booie”. picked series with a botrytis viognier and following the bitter Coonawarra boundary marsanne viognier blend. The company dispute when local grapegrowers and The funny thing is, it’s still the same area recently held a viticultural day for local winemakers who were on the outer andas it ever was, still rich in terra rossa soil, growers at its Wrattonbully vineyard, homeless wanted to call their new regionstill Coonawarra’s nearest neighbour to highlighting the promising Spanish red Koppamurra. It led to a protracted andthe north and, importantly, it still has huge grape, tempranillo. unfortunate dispute, pitting Koppamurrapotential to be a major red wine producing against its neighbours. Koppamurra wonarea growing some exceptional shiraz But the region’s biggest surprise the day and kept its name, and the regionand cabernet sauvignon. “It’s a fantastic supporter is a man who once fought went on to be called Wrattonbully.place, a beautiful climate,” enthuses Ben tooth and nail for his vineyard notTidswell of Tidswell Wines. He would like to be in Wrattonbully. Brian Croser,to see more recognition given but knowsit’s difficult. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 37

How ironic is it that after all of that, the were inspired choices. The wines are lifted For now, it will be price and value forKoppamurra name should be shelved in aromas, bright in fruit and at around money that will bring drinkers around. Thefollowing the Croser purchase? He renamed $24 a bottle offer extremely good value Wrattonbully name on wines from Yalumba,the property Whalebone Vineyard. for money. The warmth of Wrattonbully Hollick, Tidswell, Stonehaven and others is (it is generally regarded as warmer than already resonating with some wine lovers. Clearly, this is a region of some truly profound Coonawarra) looks to be especially well As well it might. Those with long memoriesironies. Coonawarra producers like Hollick suited to Mediterranean grape varieties. remember that before the boundary disputeWines, who once fought to see the area to Tempranillo holds great promise, while the area was considered part of Coonawarra,their north excluded from Coonawarra, have some see a similarity to the Rhone Valley producing wines with Coonawarra pricevineyards there and are making wine under and are planting Rhone varieties like tags. During the debate it became known asthe Wrattonbully label. They also admit they viognier and marsanne. “outer Coonawarra” in comparison to “innerare struggling to generate consumer interest Coonawarra”, the famous cigar shape ofin the wines. “Wrattonbully is definitely an Mel Hollick has high regard for the quality terra rossa soils running through the middleunknown still,” suggests marketer Mel Hollick. of the fruit coming out of Wrattonbully. She of the Coonawarra township.“It’s a slow education process.” and the Hollick winemakers have even toyed with the idea of their ‘icon’ shiraz one Outer Coonawarra, too, had terra rossa In 1998, Hollick Wines bought 32 day being sourced from the area. But that’s soils, fabulous limestone-rich red soils sohectares at Wrattonbully and planted well into the future. suited to cabernet sauvignon, shiraz andshiraz, tempranillo and sangiovese. They merlot, but it also reportedly had a higher incidence of black rendzina soils, whichPhotos courtesy of: Wrattonbully Wine Region and Tapanappa Wines © Milton Wordley. experts considered inferior. Black soils are less free-draining, producing waterlogging or “wet feet” for vines, which results in excessive vigour and overcropping. In the end, “outer Coonawarra” was also deemed to be marginally warmer, with older limestone soils from a different geological age when the West Naracoorte Range was formed some 35 million years ago. The Coonawarra boundary dispute was the most extraordinary wine battle ever seen in this country, with far-reaching ramifications for both parties involved. Within the small country towns of Coonawarra, Penola and Naracoorte, friendships were strained; some were broken for good. Coonawarra was considered the winner and Wrattonbully the loser. The loss brought Wrattonbully to its knees. It is still in the process of rebuilding a regional identity and a loyal customer base. Some producers I spoke to weren’t even sure there was a marketing future for the region and were choosing to promote their own brand instead of Wrattonbully. That would be a shame. There is a market out there but it needs more producers to start putting the Wrattonbully name on their labels and putting those wines in front of drinkers.38 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 39

ONBYOIKUERS!PAUL SMART & GRAEME PHILLIPSThe discerning drinker’s long-distance guide to the 2010 Tour de FranceTHIS YEAR’S Tour de France promises to JULY 3 - PROLOGUE: JULY 6 - STAGE 3:be the most highly charged and competitiveof any in recent years. Two hundred of the 8km time trial around the streets Wanze to Porte du Hainautworld’s best cyclists will test their stamina of Rotterdam The last beer for a while, so try one of theand skill racing each other over 2000m-high The Dutch drink more beer than wine, country’s famous Trappist ales, such as Leffe.mountains, through villages, cornfields and and probably more spirits than wine asvineyards before the final mad rush round well. No trouble - simply pop down to your JULY 7 - STAGE 4:the cobblestones of the Champs Elysees nearest bottle shop and pick up a slab ofin Paris, 21 days and 3596km later. Heineken, Grolsch or Amstel Gold. And Cambrai to Reims, the capital perhaps a bottle of Bols or Advocaat for of Champagne Which is all pretty thirsty and exhausting when the beer runs out. Champagne, of course - anything fromstuff. And following the Tour each night Veuve Cliquot to Krug, non-vintage toand early morning for three weeks on SBS JULY 4 - STAGE 1: vintage and late-disgorged, depending onis almost as exhausting. As it happens, the depth of your pocket. Or, rather thanthe route this year takes the riders through Rotterdam to Bruxelles the big brands, try one of the emergingsome of Europe’s and the world’s best beer Still in beer country, but here the beer new grower champagnes now availableand wine areas. scene is much more diverse than the in Australia, such as those of Lamandier- countryside the Tour rides through. If you Bernier, Egly-Ouriet and Aubry Fils. So what better way to slake your thirst can find it, raise a glass to your overnightand get an armchair taste of Le Tour than home with a drop of Blanche de Bruxelles JULY 8 - STAGE 5:to don your indoor lycra and follow each or, depending on your preferred style,day’s progress with a glass of that day’s crack a pils by Stella Artois or a golden ale Epernay to Montargisregional wine or beer in hand? Your own by Hoegaarden. Since your bottle shop won’t have heard ofTour de France in a glass, as it were. the insipid pinots near Mongargis, tonight JULY 5 - STAGE 2: you have a choice: a crisp Chablis from over To help you climb the Alps, pedal the a few hills to the east or, depending on whotime trials and stay awake, here are a few A flattish stage from Bruxelles to Spa you’re watching the tour with, France’s winesuggestions for what you might like to stock The essential philosophy of Le Tour - stick for young lovers, a fresh, young Sancerreup on in readiness for the big event. with it. In this case, stick with the beers. from the Loire Valley a little to the south.40 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

CLUES TO HELP THE ARMCHAIR EXPERTJULY 9 - STAGE 6: JULY 12 - · The Tour de France cyclists compete to wear four different jerseys, or maillots:Montargis to Gueugnon Rest day in Morzine-AvoriazYou’re close enough, and waited long That green-eyed monster, absinthe, 1. Yellow (maillot jaune): Time-based.enough, to give yourself a treat - such as originated in nearby Val de Travers and is Worn by the cyclist with the leasta good white or red Premier Cru or better once again legal. So have a green one or time elapsed. Also called GeneralBurgundy. Anything from 2005 would do two to see you to bed - or, if you must, a Classification (GC).just nicely. glass of warm Ovaltine, which originated in this region as Ovomaltine - and have a good 2. Green (maillot vert): Points-based.JULY 10 - STAGE 7: night’s sleep before tomorrow’s mountains. Points are allocated for placings in each stage. Commonly called theTournus to Station des Rousses JULY 13 - STAGE 9: Sprinter’s Jersey.This stage begins in southern Burgundyand crosses the Rhone at Macon for a Morzine-Avoriaz to 3. White (maillot blanc): Time-based.climb to the French/Swiss alpine border. Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne Worn by the rider aged under 26It’s rated a medium mountain stage, so Mountains, mountains and more mountains with the best time. Also called thecrack a Pouilly Fuisse or good, medium- with only the vin jaune, yellow wine of Youth Jersey.bodied red or white Macon to sustain you the Jura, to sustain you. It’s made fromfor the ascent. late-picked savagnin grapes, the variety 4. Polka Dot (maillot a pois): Points- recently planted in Australia in the mistaken based. Points are allocated for placingsJULY 11 - STAGE 8: belief it was Spanish albarino. It wasn’t, and over each mountain. The higher the many savagnin wines are now available mountain the greater the points.Station des Rousses to Morzine-Avoriaz here. Not quite in the gold-coloured, heavilyTonight, cook up a fresh trout, pour a glass maderised style of vin jaun, but good · Peleton: The main bunch of riders.of chilled chasselas or gamay wine and drinking nonetheless.you’ll almost believe the fish came from · Breakaway/tete de la course (“head ofLac Leman and the wine from the hills JULY 14 - STAGE 10: the course”): A small bunch of riders outaround Geneva. in front, usually caught by the peleton just Chambery to Gap before the finish. Still riding high, so stick with a savagnin to wash down a fondue or potato dauphine · Poursuivant: a group of chasers made with Heidi Gruyere, Tilsit and Raclette caught between the peleton and the farm cheeses from Tasmania. tete de la course. · Bidon: Water bottle. · Domestique: a team member who sacrifices himself for his team leader, i.e. retrieves the bidons from the team car, rides at the front in a headwind wind, gives the team leader his bike if the leader’s is damaged. · Autobus/gruppetto: When going up mountains the slower riders form mini- peletons at the back to help each other get over the peaks. · Lattern rouge: “Red light” on the caboose, awarded to the rider in last place. · Col: Mountain pass. · Directeur sportif: The manager who rides in the team car, barking instructions. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 41

JULY 18 - STAGE 14: Revel to Ax-3 Domaines They made it, it’s the 100th year of Le Tour in the Pyrenees and Spain is in sight. So celebrate by popping a cava, a sparkling drop from over the border. JULY 19 - STAGE 15: Pamiers to Bagneres-de-Luchon This is where that armagnac you put aside comes in.JULY 15 - STAGE 11: JULY 20 - STAGE 16: JULY 21 -Sisteron to Bourg-les-Valence Bagnieres-de-Luchon to Pau Rest day in PauStart with a Coteaux de Pierrevert VDQS, Ahhh, relief at last as you pour a wonderfully Try a powerful, rustic and robust Madiran,Sisteron’s closest appellation, or a Cote golden, elegant and complex drop of a followed by delicious dessert Pacherencdu Ventoux as the riders, no doubt greatly dry or dessert Juracon, the French writer du Vic-Bilh from two appellations just arelieved, give the infamous Mont Ventoux and sensualist Colette’s favourite wine. little to the north.a miss this year. Then finish with one of In two days you’ll be climbing the Col duthe Rhone’s great Cote Rotie shiraz or, Tourmalet, so tonight see whether you can JULY 22 - STAGE 17:almost equally powerful and satisfying, a find a Tourmalet cheese, a perfect matchCondrieu from the slopes around Valence. with the Juracon. Pau to Col du TourmaletAnd, if they’re not available, you have This will be the “queen” stage to determineplenty of other choices while pedalling who will wear the yellow jersey into Paris.up the northern Rhone Valley, such as Win or lose, after another day in thegeneric Cotes du Rhone, Cornas, Crozes mountains, any remaining armagnac willHermitage and St Joseph. come in handy.JULY 16 - STAGE 12: JULY 23 - STAGE 18:Bourg-de-Peage to Mende Salies-de-Bearn to BordeauxToday you’re heading towards the Midi- Bordeaux, the most famous - andPyreness and then the single biggest wine expensive - wine region in the world. Howregion in the world, the Languedoc, which deep are your pockets? Or have a third,produces a third of all French wine. So second or -what the hell - a first growth onover the next few days there are plenty of the bank manager.different regional wines and grape varietiesto choose from. Start with a Cahors and JULY 24 - STAGE 19:work your way down and through cassouletcountry to the Pyrenees. And this is where Bordeaux to Pauillacyou should put a bottle of armagnac aside The finish here is in the most famousfor easing the pain in the mountains. Bordeaux appellation of all, home to three of the five first growth chateauxJULY 17 - STAGE 13: - Latour, Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton- Rothschild. If you didn’t spend up bigRodez to Revel yesterday, today’s the last chance beforeToday, start with a Minervois and follow with the champagne pops in Paris.a powerful, black Corbieres to prepare forthe next three days in the mountains. JULY 25 - STAGE 20: Lonjumeau to the Champs-Elysees Celebrate the win and your having seen it through with bubbles - for tomorrow you’re back at work with another long year to wait for Le Tour 2011.42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

LE PARCOURSLÉGENDE / THE KEY Grand Départ PAYS-BAS Grand Départ / Race Start ROTTERDAM Arrivée finale / Race Finish Ville départ / StartTown Prologue Ville arrivée / FinishTown samedi 3 juillet Ville arrivée - départ / Finish - StartTown Ville repos / RestTown Départ 1ère étape Etape en ligne / Stage dimanche 4 juillet C.l.m. individuel / IndividualTimeTrial BELGIQUE BRUXELLES lundi 5 juillet ARENBERG PORTE DU HAINAUT SPA CAMBRAI mardi WANZE 6 juillet PARIS mercredi REIMS 7 juillet ÉPERNAY Champs-Élysées jeudi dimanche 25 juillet 8 juillet LONGJUMEAU MONTARGIS vendredi 9 juillet samedi STATION DES ROUSSES 10 juillet GUEUGNON MORZINE-AVORIAZ REPOS lundi 12 juillet TOURNUS dimanche mardi 13 juillet 11 juillet CHAMBÉRYPAUILLAC BOURG-DE-PÉAGE DE-MAURIENNE ©2009 Graphi-Ogre Copyright A.S.O. mercredisamedi 24 juillet BORDEAUX vendredi 14 juillet 16 juillet GAP vendredi REPOS MENDE BOURG 23 juillet mercredi LÈS SISTERONSALIES-DE-BÉARN 21 juillet RODEZ PAU samedi VALENCE 17 juillet jeudi REVEL dimanche 15 juillet 18 juilletjeudi 22 juillet mardi PAMIERS 20 juillet lundiCOL DU TOURMALET 19 juilletBAGNÈRES-DE-LUCHON AX-3 DOMAINES



Maxwell - Smart,Small, Successful McLaren Vale wine and mead maker finds the right mix to prosper JOY WALTERFANGI D O T R Y T O avoid hackneyedexpressions but there are times whenthey suit the occasion - like now, when Iwant to describe Mark Maxwell and histeam at Maxwell Wines the words “QuietAchievers” just sums them up perfectly.These guys take achieving quietly almostto the brink of silence. You won’t see any huge multimediaadvertising campaigns for Maxwell Winesand you won’t find them seeking medalsat national and international wine shows- well, hardly ever. So this little gem couldhave slipped under your radar. Let meenlighten you. Last year this 20,000-casewinery celebrated 30 years of makingwine in McLaren Vale and is one of thefew mead makers in Australia, producing5000 cases a year. Why the low profile? “I suppose,basically, I’m a shy person and don’t goout of my way to seek publicity,” saysproprietor Mark Maxwell. We’d rather putour money into our product so we canoffer value for money; that’s my way ofgetting sales - over-deliver in the bottle.For example, we may sell a wine for,say, $20 when the equivalent qualitywine at our competitors might be $28. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 45

[as far as size is concerned,physically we cannot make any morewine here than we do and we don’t]want to get any bigger.Some wineries charge more for their wine in fact, many good professional judges have a simple formula for success: don’tand then put the difference back into would say [their] cabernet sauvignon is overreach yourself. “As far as size isgenerating more publicity. We don’t.” the best in the region …” concerned, physically we cannot make any more wine here than we do and A quote from an authoritative book “Across the top of the hill here we have a we don’t want to get any bigger. Weon wines by Alan Young, entitled block of Reynella selection cabernet that’s just want to stay where we are, makeAustralian Wines and Wineries, just fabulous. I heard a while back that the quantity we can make, and keeppublished in the 1980s, described it’s considered one of the best blocks of improving the quality.Maxwell Wines thus: “Mead and wine cabernet in McLarenVale,” confirms Mark.are strange bedfellows, the type of “We buy in about two thirds of our grapesassociation that conjures up mediocrity. While the wine industry in general from our neighbours because we want toBut nothing at Maxwell Wines is mediocre; is shaking to its foundations, Maxwell try and keep the fruit sourced from the Wines’ future is looking rock-solid. They46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

same microclimate we have here: brown Mark is in the process of reinventing system at the same time.” Younger sonloam on limestone. It gives the fruit a his chardonnay - developing a different Lewis professes no interest in the winery orparticular style of flavour that I look for.” style. “We’ve grown chardonnay here but winemaking and is studying geology. But I don’t think the climate was quite right so doesn’t every premium vineyard in France Maxwell wine sales are spread evenly over now we buy our fruit from the top of the have its own geologist?cellar door and mail order, the domestic hill here near Kuipto forest, where the fruitmarket and export - predominately Asian has much better natural acidity so makes Mark built part of the winery from stonemarkets. “A lot of our retail sales are into a better wine. And we’re doing something sourced from Western Australia becauserestaurants,” says Mark. “Probably half quite different with the oak treatment. that was the only place he could getour wine sold in Australia has been into I’m looking at planting a new red variety just the right colour! There are woodenrestaurants. Maxwell is a good restaurant from Italy - sagrantino. It produces very ceilings made of hemlock from an oldproduct because it’s round and soft and attractive flavours. We’ll also be making a sailing ship and brick pavers that wereready to drink and is the right price.” sparkling mead in the near future.” once part of a church. In his quest for constant improvement, Mark started Maxwell Wines with his What with a tasting room where you canMark has added a new variety: viognier. father Ken, a highly respected winemaker watch and smell grapes being crushed“Well, it’s new to me as far as winemaking and three-times winner of the Dan Murphy and wines fermenting, an active workingis concerned. We co-ferment it with our Trophy for producing the best shiraz and beehive on view in the winery, an enticingshiraz. By adding viognier in the right cabernet of the region. And that Maxwell maze to explore in the grounds below, aproportions it softens the tannins and lineage will continue with Mark’s son limestone cave for spectacular candelabraadds a real complexity to the wine. It’s a Jeremy, who is working his way around the lunches and dinners, some of the mostgood new wine style for us. We have some world as a cellar hand before he comes on picturesque views in the entire regiontempranillo vines that are looking good and board. “It’s giving him good experience and a ‘girl’ called Sophie who is the barrelwe should have enough wine from them for and getting the travel bug out of his bung chasing champion, there certainly iscellar door sales next year.” nothing mediocre about Maxwell Wines.Photos courtesy of: Maxwell Wines © David Sievers Photography. McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEU TASTING STARTS PAGE 116. July/August 2010 W I N E S TAT E 47

MAINTAINING A CLARE VISIONPeter Barry promotes the virtues of his beloved valley D. PAUL HARDYP E T E R B A R R Y bristles at the balanced wines that age beautifully. day for Peter, who emptied his cellar of That has to be ultimately what is valued great riesling vintages from Clare’s famedthought that Clare may have slipped in the world of wine.” Florita vineyard at Watervale, which wasfrom the forefront of many wine drinkers’ purchased by the Barry family in 1986 andconsciousness. The 51-year-old To help draw attention to such now supplies the fruit for Jim Barry Wines’managing director of Jim Barry Wines benchmarks, Peter has begun his fourth esteemed Florita and Watervale rieslings.fears that the modest consistency of Clare stint as president of the Clare Valleywineries has become inconspicuous - Winemakers Association, and is mulling Within the refurbished original cellar atespecially against the overt aggression over quite a few bold ideas: the prospect of Jim Barry Winery, and in the presence ofof marketing campaigns by other much staging an international riesling symposium Australia’s leading wine writers, there waslarger production regions that make a in Clare, even creating a giant screw cap a tasting of Florita rieslings made by Jimbig fuss of their rising star winemakers sculpture on the Riesling Trail bikeway to under the St Clare and Jim Barry labelsand new grape varieties. By comparison, commemorate Clare’s uniform embracing and by John Vickery under the Leo BuringClare’s cluster of premium small wineries of this closure for its rieslings in 2000. He label, dating back to 1972. (Peter paidremains in the hands of the same families, points to Clare having a history of being an Australian record price for riesling atupholding a simple commitment to bold and unorthodox, punching above its a 1999 auction, spending $300 on threeexcellence that is unwavering. weight to win recognition around the world bottles of 1977 Leo Buring DWG41 from as a premium growing district focused on the Florita vineyard at Watervale). “Throughout the Clare district, and quality ahead of quantity.especially at Jim Barry Wines, we put our This gala riesling tasting was designedfaith in what’s in the bottle - and history Peter is very serious about this new era as an aggressive positioning statement toshows that such faith has been well of promoting Clare’s virtues, reflected in silence Clare’s critics, reinforcing the factplaced,” says Peter. “What’s important is grand celebrations he conducted during that this region is responsible for some ofthat our wines are significantly different August 2009 to commemorate the 50th Australia’s greatest white wines, which stillto those from other places. Our vineyards anniversary of the winery created by his look magnificent after decades of cellaringproduce magnificent fruit, resulting in late father, Jim Barry. It was an emotional and retain sensational riesling fruit character.Above: Painting of the late Jim Barry. Opposite: Leo Buring Rhine Rieslings and Jim Barry’s St Clare 1977 Rhine Riesling.48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010

Opposite: Stills in a famous scottish whisky distillery.© Giorgio Perbellini. WHISKIES OF THE WORLD TASTING STARTS PAGE 52.

Peter also celebrated the fruits fromJim Barry Wines’ cellars with the public,emphasising the proficiency of the company’sred wine portfolio. As part of the 2009 ClareGourmet Weekend, Peter recognised the 25thanniversary of this innovative food and winecelebration - the first of its type to be presentedby a wine producing region in Australia - byhosting a public tasting of 11 vintages of hiswinery’s flagship shiraz, The Armagh, at JimBarry Winery. Stretching back to the first,1989, release of Armagh, this tutored tastingof back vintages, the current 2005 vintage(sealed under cork, selling for $195) andbarrel samples of finished wines that havenot yet been released, showed that this veryrobust single-vineyard shiraz proudly displaysvintage variations and winemaker adaptationsin a bid to best express this special plot.THE ARMAGH SHOWCASE REINFORCED THAT While fruit from the Armagh block (plantedREPUTATIONS ARE BUILT ON HISTORICAL by Jim Barry in 1968 and yielding less thanBENCHMARKS OF QUALITY THAT SHOULD NOT two tonnes per acre) has always beenBE DISCARDED OR FORGOTTEN. exceptional, the journey of the Armagh wine as a single-vineyard expression of50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2010 shiraz has been, and continues to be, an exercise in oak experimentation to get the best results. First, the fruit was matured in all new American oak, which has left the 1989 wine still tasting plush, opulent and persistent. The Armagh then shifted to all new French oak, giving pronounced vanilla aromas and a clean, silky finish, before reverting to a 50/50 mix of French and American oak from 1991. This mix has varied since 2004, with the winemakers trying to read what each parcel of fruit demands rather than dictating a specific regime: while only 35 per cent new American oak was used in 2004, 80 per cent was used in the 2005 vintage. While the fruit is always bold and powerful in The Armagh, cellaring time allows the emergence of delicious