Winestate Magazine July August 2021

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ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES TOP 10 Kalleske Old Vine MERLOT & FRENCH WINE Barossa Valley BLENDS Grenache 2019 The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic HHHH1/2 96pts 3 TASTED wines as selected by highest judges A big powerful old scores are: school classic that 3 AWARDED is very earthy and 1. MILLESIME BIO INTERNATIONAL beetroot-like with a Some very nice AWARD FOR BEST ORGANIC OR pleasant, perfumed lift examples of merlot BIODYNAMIC WINE and the oak kept nicely here with the blend Famille Amirault-Grosbois in check. $50 (SXC) having that added extra Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon Grancari Estate dimension. France Cabernet Franc 2020 McLaren Vale HHHH1/2 96pts (Ecocert, Demeter) Grenache 2019 Villa Maria Earth Domaine Tournon HHHH 95pts Garden Hawkes Bay Shay's Flat Vineyard 2. Domaine Changarnier Monthelie 1er Dark oaky nose and a NZ Merlot Cabernet Pyrenees Cabernet Cru Rouge \"Les Clous\" Burgundy delicious mouthful of Sauvignon 2019 Sauvignon 2019 France Pinot Noir 2019 sweet berry fruit flavours HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts HHHH1/2 96pts (Organic EU) with quite a chewy oak Deep purple wine – Dense stonefruit finish. $15 (ACO) bright and youthful with fragrances with a herbal 3. Domaine De Mayol Tentations Vallee Gemtree Wines blackcurrant-like fruit edge and intense varietal Du Rhone Luberon France Rouge 2020 Small Batch Egg characters showing a fruit characters on a soft HHHH1/2 96pts Fermented McLaren subtle menthol edge, and supple palate. $20 (Qualite France Bureau Veritas) Flat Grenache 2020 the oak in a supporting (NASAA) HHH1/2 92pts role and salivating acid. Mount Avoca 4. Château Mourgues du Grès Galets A pleasant and well- $25 (BioGro NZ) Estate Pyrenees Rouges Costieres De Nimes balanced crisp style Mount Avoca Estate Cabernet Sauvignon France Red Blend 2019 with “glossy” sweet Pyrenees Merlot 2019 HHHH 94pts HHHH 94pts (EcoCert) fruit characters and fine 2019 HHHH 94pts A varietally light, but tannins. $50 (ACO) Inviting ripe sweet plum lively, wine with plenty 5. Domaine Bassac Cuvee XVIII Rouge fruit aromas and red of dry red flavours, Cotes Du Thongue Syrah 2018 cherry flavours with nice confectionery notes HHHH 94pts (Ecocert) leafiness and balancing and slight edgy tannins. oak. $37.95 (ACO) $37.95 (ACO) 6. Domaine De Mayol Oplezir Vallee Du Tamburlaine Organic Rhone Luberon France Rosé 2020 Wines Reserve HHHH 94pts Orange (IC) Merlot (Qualite France Bureau Veritas) 2019 HHH 91pts A big tannic style with 7. Domaine Des Hardieres Les Petits loads of primary fruit and Gars Anjou Blanc Chenin 2019 plenty of leafy/vegetal HHHH 94pts notes. $48 (SXC) 8. Domaine Des Peirecedes Petit Bisou Chateau De Gaure CABERNET Rosily Vineyard AOC Cotes De Provence Rosé 2020 Chateau Languedoc SAUVIGNON & Margaret River HHHH 94pts (AB Ecocert) AOP Languedoc BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache Syrah 2019 HHH1/2 93pts 9. Domaine d'Eole Provence AOP D'Aix Carignan 2019 15 TASTED Good varietal earthiness En Provence France Rosé 2020 HHH 91pts 6 AWARDED here with dark ripe HHHH 94pts (EcoCert) Dark chocolaty fruit fruits, overt oak and with green olive-like A mixed bag with the balanced acid/tannins. 10. Famille Amirault-Grosbois Les complexity and a hint best showing varietal $28 (ACO) Graipins Loire Valley - AOP Saint- of leather. One for fruit, retained vibrancy Gemtree Wines Nicolas de Bourgueil France the cellar. €10 EU and oak in balance. The Small Batch Cabernet Franc 2017 (Bureau Veritas) others however had McLaren Flat HHH1/2 93pts (Ecocert, Demeter) green fruit characters Cabernet 2019 with unbalanced tannins. HHH1/2 93pts “With cabernet you see Dense sweet cassis the faults if the fruit is characters lift off the not grown and picked nose and fill the mouth well,” said one judge. with flavour. Just needs “With age these wines time. $50 (ACO) only get worse.” 102 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting TOP 10 SHIRAZ & Gemtree Wines Organic Hill BLENDS Uncut McLaren Preservative Free NEW ZEALAND WINE 2020-2019 Flat Shiraz 2019 Riverland Shiraz HHHH1/2 96pts 2019 HHH 90pts The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic 23 TASTED Brooding bouquet of Young, vibrant and fleshy wines as selected by highest judges 10 AWARDED chocolate and berries and brimming over with scores are: A very mixed group of with nicely retained jubey fruits. Drink now! wines here. “The best fruit and oak flavour $23 (NASAA) 1. Konrad Dry Marlborough Riesling 2017 examples had ripe dense sweetness and excellent HHHH1/2 97pts (Biogro NZ) fruit with balanced oak mouth-filling tannins. SHIRAZ & and acids giving vibrancy Good long-term BLENDS 2. Villa Maria Earth Garden of flavour,” noted one potential. $26 (ACO) 2018 & OLDER Hawkes Bay, NZ judge. “But some had Grancari Estate Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 murky undertones Greta's McLaren 22 TASTED HHHH1/2 96pts (BioGro NZ) showing a lack of Vale Shiraz 2019 9 AWARDED attention to detail by HHHH 95pts 3. Stoneleigh Organic Marlborough winemakers.” Another A huge ageing old school The 2018 vintage Chardonnay 2020 judge commented, “The style that’s dense, dark wines were generally HHHH 94pts (Biogro NZ) strong wines had a and chocolaty with a very good and, whilst ‘completeness’”. lingering finish. “Very they were better 4. Giesen Organic Marlborough Gemtree Wines satisfying!” $20 (ACO) than the bombed out Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Obsidian McLaren 919 Reserve 2017s, they are ready HHHH 94pts (BioGro NZ) Flat Shiraz 2019 Riverland Shiraz for drinking now. HHHHH 98pts 2020 HHHH 94pts “Unfortunately, organic 5. Clos Henri Estate Marlborough Dense black/red colour Dense lifted stewed fruit limitations for the use Sauvignon Blanc 2019 with a slight medicinal fragrances and lovely of sulphur perhaps HHHH 94pts (BioGro NZ) note to the subdued depth of cherry/berry results in premature nose and great depth flavours with dusty oak ageing in comparison 6. Ara Resolute Marlborough and richness of ripe soft and excellent acidity. with their non- Pinot Noir 2017 stonefruit flavours with $45 (SXC) organic counterparts,” HHH1/2 93pts (BioGro NZ) a nice warming finish. Gemtree Wines suggested one judge. $100 (ACO) Ernest Allan “For organic wines fresh 7. Greystone North Canterbury McLaren Flat Shiraz is best and are to be Pinot Gris 2020 Zonte's Footstep 2019 HHHH 94pts enjoyed in their youth.” HHH1/2 92pts (Biogro NZ) Nature's Crux Broad developing Fleurieu Shiraz 2020 bouquet with lovely Domaine Bassac 8. Konrad Organic Marlborough HHHH1/2 96pts integration of pristine Cuvee XVIII Rouge Sauvignon Blanc 2020 A classy dark purple varietal fruit, oak, chewy Cotes Du Thongue HHH1/2 92pts (BioGro NZ) wine rich with powerful tannins and acid. $80 Syrah 2018 sweet and inky fruit (ACO) HHHH 94pts 9. Giesen Organic Marlborough characters. Has drying Pogue Vineyard Complex chocolaty/ Pinot Noir 2019 tannins and acid giving Central Victoria leathery bouquet with HHH1/2 92pts (BioGro NZ) the wine great vibrancy. Shiraz 2020 great power of fruit $35 (ACO) HHH 91pts on the generous oaky 10. Greystone Thomas Brothers Very vibrant and youthful palate. €15 EU (Ecocert) North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2018 with generous bright HHH 91pts (Biogro NZ) berry fruit characters. d'Arenberg The Love $20.60 (ACO) Grass McLaren Vale Stormflower Rosily Vineyard Salena Estate Shiraz 2018 Vineyard Single The Cartographer Organic Riverland HHHH 94pts Vineyard Margaret Margaret River Shiraz 2019 A very lively youthful River Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon HHH 91pts wine with subtle aromas Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet A fragrant black cherry and delicious complexity 2018 HHH 91pts Franc Malbec Petit bouquet with a very of spicy plum/cassis Lovely leafy berry varietal Verdot 2019 sound soft plum and red flavours. $25 (NASAA) characters with good use HHH 90pts berry palate. $24 (ACO) of oak and drying tannins. Zesty candied fruit aromas Stormflower J & J Wines Rivers $65 (SXC) and ripe plum palate Vineyard Single Lane McLaren Vale with smoky oak and soft Vineyard Margaret Shiraz 2018 tannins. $25 (ACO) River Wilyabrup HHH1/2 92pts Shiraz 2019 Plenty of slightly charry HHH 91pts oak with very dark fruits Attractive leafy cool sitting underneath and climate style with dusty tannins. $25 (ACO) elegant tannins and a warm creamy finish. $40 (SXC) July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 103

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES J & J Wines Chateau La Roque Macaw Creek Kalleske Lorraine Eminence McLaren La Cupa Pic Saint- Organic Preservative Barossa Valley Vale Shiraz 2018 Loup France Syrah Free Mount Lofty Semscato (Semillon HHH1/2 92pts Mourvedre Ranges Shiraz Moscato) 2021 A fruit driven shiraz with 2018 HHH 91pts 2018 HHH 90pts HHH 91pts lovely concentration A fascinating cool A straightforward style Slightly spritzig lime/ of rich fruit sweetness climate shiraz blend with well-maintained lemon bouquet with laced with soft tannins. with some very drying berry vibrancy showing refreshing lolly-like fruit $59 (ACO) tannins. €22 EU (EcoCert a savoury edge. $19 flavours and balancing Tamburlaine Organic & Demeter) (SXC) acidity. $21 (SXC) Wines Marlowe Château Mourgues Orange (IC) Syrah du Grès Terre SWEET STAR RATINGS  Cabernet 2018 d'Argence Rouge WHITES & HHH1/2 92pts Costieres De Nimes FORTIFIEDS Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of A lovely classy, France Shiraz excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. “glossy” and complex Grenache 2017 3 TASTED All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry wine with red cherry HHH 90pts 1 AWARDED professionals and are compared in peer fruits and supple oak A big oaky wine with classes by three judges. tannins. $130 (SXC) sweet ripe fruit sitting Only one worthy CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Domaine Bassac underneath and ripe recipient here in an a major mail-order business. Cuvee XVII Rouge tannins. €12.6 EU interesting lovely light CD Cellar door price. Syrah Marselan (EcoCert) style sweet white. CDO Cellar door only. Cotes Du Thongue SO Sold out. Rouge 2017 $N/A Price not available at time of printing. HHH 91pts  Contact information pages 112. More savoury in style with meaty/salami RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). characters and good BEST VALUE for $20 & under. tannins. Drink now! €15 For a complete list of what we tasted EU (Ecocert) please refer to www.winestate.com.au DELIVERING THE HIGHEST QUALITY ORGANIC CERTIFICATION SERVICES. NCO is highly recognised nationally and internationally as With auditors located throughout Australia, we can carry one of Australia’s leading organic certification organisations. out audits for multiple programs in the one visit, increasing We provide certification to multiple international markets efficiency and reducing audit costs. and all unregulated international markets. Our highly experienced technical team has a deep We currently certify 102 vineyards spanning across more knowledge and understanding of the technical aspects than 6300 hectares of land and 35 wineries. of vineyard and winery certification requirements and are ready to assist you. NCO is also an approved certification body for Freshcare Environmental, Viticulture and For more information visit www.ncocertifiedorganic.com.au Winery sustainability certification programs. or call us on +61 8 7231 7700. 104 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting 134 TASTED 82 AWARDED NEW RELEASES With vintage finishing at the time of judging these new releases OTHER WHITE SEMILLON it is always a tough time to get these wines across the line. It VARIETALS & is either too early for the new vintage wines and in that \"in BLENDS 2 TASTED between\" period of neither freshness nor secondary complexity 2 AWARDED stages. Having said all that there are still gems to find and lots of 9 TASTED good drinking! It is hard to go past the consistency of shiraz, but 3 AWARDED A couple of good in this tasting others that performed well are cabernets, grenache youthful examples from and also tempranillo with one fine old museum riesling. Another group that the current vintage and disappointed the judges offering ageing potential. SPARKLING Reillys Museum SAUVIGNON although there was one Release Watervale BLANC standout verdelho. “Too Gumpara Wines 3 TASTED Clare Valley Riesling many wines exhibited Frieda's Old Vine 2012 HHHHH 98pts 5 TASTED dilute flavour or were Barossa Valley 2 AWARDED An old curio of a style. 1 AWARDED too broad regardless of Semillon 2021 Citrus aromas with the variety involved. At HHHH 94pts A couple of nice toasty characters and Disappointing group. the end of the day, you An herbaceous nose examples of style. steely notes. Honeyed There was just one still need flavour and with a grassy lift. Some palate with citrus based excellent example but structure,” commented pretty melon characters Redbank Wines flavours filling it out. the judges saw too one judge. on the palate with a Victoria Prosecco Good line of acid. Drink many viticultural and good line of acid. $28 Rosé 2020 now. $40 winemaking problems. Tempus Two Copper HHH1/2 92pts Z Wine Rustica Eden Hunter Valley McGuigan Bin Pale pink, zesty, fruit Valley Riesling 2020 Leefield Station Verdelho 2021 9000 Hunter Valley driven style with subtle HHH1/2 92pts Waihopai Valley HHHH1/2 96pts Semillon 2021 aromas and flavours and Musky confectionery Sauvignon Blanc Subtle lemon fragrances HHH 90pts balancing acidity. $20 bouquet with a grassy 2020 showing a mineral Lemony aromas with a character to the very HHHH1/2 96pts element and some clean, uncomplicated and Litharian Wines VBBAEULSYUTSE pretty and delicate Lifted sweet passionfruit delicate and zesty zesty fruit palate. $40 Soul Diva palate. $25 fragrances with intense lemon flavours nicely Bubbly South Deakin Brothers varietal flavours on a soft supported by a crisp CHARDONNAY Australia Moscato Joyhill Vineyard and creamy palate. Nice acid structure. $30 Rosa NV HHH 91pts Frankland River acid zing to the finish. 13 TASTED Subtle toastiness to Riesling 2020 HHH $19.99 Redbank Wines 8 AWARDED the stonefruit nose 91pts Victoria Pinot Grigio with a tight crisp Fragrant frangipani 2021 HHH1/2 92pts “There was a big palate. $20 aromas. Soft in the A lovely light drinkable difference between mouth with good line of varietal with pleasant the commercial and RIESLING acid. $39.99 stonefruit characters and premium wines here,” Bream Creek “gentle” sweetness. said one judge. “This 7 TASTED Vineyard Old Vine $20 is a variety that can Reserve Tasmania handle some artefact.” 4 AWARDED Riesling 2019 HHH Are you Game? One great example of 91pts Strathbogie Ranges an aged chardonnay that Aged stonefruit King Valley Arneis has retained vibrancy. characters developing 2020 HHH 91pts A solid line-up with one but acid giving it a certain Candied musky bouquet standout aged release to youthfulness. $48 and fresh apple flavours try! “Some very pleasant with tropical nuances. drinking here,” said one $20 judge. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 105

NEW RELEASES Gralyn Estate Sandalford Lumiere Provence OTHER RED Artwine Leave Reserve Margaret Prendiville Reserve France Rosé VARIETALS & Your Hat On River Chardonnay Margaret River 2020 HHHH 96pts BLENDS Single Vineyard 2017 HHHHH 98pts Chardonnay Lovely nose - lifted Clare Valley A still amazingly 2018 HHH1/2 92pts and strawberry-like. 12 TASTED Montepulciano youthful, fruit driven Reminiscent of crème Refreshingly crisp in the 6 AWARDED 2020 HHH 91pts style with lovely flow brulee with toasty mouth with delicate red Dark inky fruit nose and and balance of pretty lemon butter bouquet fruit flavours. $40 A much better group powerful fruit expression pear and stonefruit and a lovely unctuous Domaine Des Feraud than the white varietals. to the palate. $38 varietal characters. The palate. $75 Cuvee Prestige “Plenty of variety here acid backbone ties it all Provence France and those higher scored Artwine Pack Leader together. $75 Are You Game? Rosé 2020 wines were true to their Single Vineyard Fifth Estate Central Victoria HHH1/2 92pts varietal character,” noted Clare Valley Wines Geographe Chardonnay Pungent and herbaceous one judge. “What a Cabernet Franc Chardonnay 2020 2020 HHH 91pts on the nose that is lovely bracket in which 2020 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 96pts A very clean well-made echoed on the lovely you can buy a few and Pretty lifted red fruit Nice oak complexity varietal with very subtle crisp clean palate. $45 compare the different nose and a red cherry to the slatey lime use of oak. $20 Koonara Emily May varieties.” palate with approachable and melon bouquet. Limestone Coast tannins. $38 Citrus dominates the Ubertas Single Rosé 2021 Paulmara Estates palate and has tropical Vineyard Barossa HHH 91pts De Nero Barossa Brand & Sons elements with “punchy” Valley Chardonnay Lifted, slightly pungent, Nero D'Avola 'Last Sunday oak. $27 2020 HHH 91pts strawberry nose and 2020 HHHH 94pts Drive' Coonawarra The Ned Subtle aromatics and long intense strawberry/ A bright youthful purple Cabernet Franc Marlborough soft smooth peachy raspberry palate. $23 wine with ripe cherry 2019 HHH 91pts Chardonnay palate with herbaceous Tempus Two Copper fruit and sweet vanillin Nice balance here 2020 HHHH 94pts notes. $20 Hunter Valley Rosé oak running through between red fruits, “Ticks all the boxes!” 2021 HHH 91pts it. $22 savoury elements and Attractive spicy melon Firetail Margaret Rose petal bouquet and attractive oak. $26 aromas with slatey River Chardonnay a crisp and refreshing Paulmara Estates complexity and a silky 2020 HHH 91pts fruity palate with racy The Melee Barossa TEMPRANILLO smooth, seamlessly Nutty/quince fragrances acidity. $30 Sangiovese Shiraz & BLENDS balanced, palate. with rich tropical fruit Leefield Station Malbec 2020 $18.99 flavours and a hint of Waihopai Valley HHH 91pts 6 TASTED oak. $36 Pinot Rosé Red cherry and plum 4 AWARDED 2020 HHH 91pts fruit characters with oak Leefield Station Nice floral lift to the nose in a supporting role. $25 Some good quaffing Waihopai Valley with sweet strawberry opportunities here. Chardonnay flavours. Good acid line. Artwine The Grace “The un-oaked versions 2019 HHH 91pts $19.99 Single Vineyard seemed to offer better Buttery nutty brown lime Clare Valley options,” suggested one nose and nicely rounded Graciano 2020 judge. tropical/melon palate. HHH 91pts $27.99 Pretty lifted spicy/peppery Silver Spoon Estate blue fruit fragrances and No Bull Heathcote ROSÉ flavours. $32 Tempranillo 2018 HHHH 94pts 8 TASTED Sweet toasty oak 5 AWARDED dominates here but has enough powerful There is enough to red fruit to match it. A please everyone here good example of style. with a variety of colours Pleasant savouriness to and styles. “These range the finish. $38 from bright primary fruit driven styles to the more evolved textured ones.” JUDGES - DAY 1 Amanda Trezise Brooke Blair Dave Matthews Winemaker for TWG - Winemaker for Peter Lehmann Formerly Winemaker The Wine Group Wines in the Barossa Valley. 18 at Rosemount and in Loxton, South years in the wine industry; 11 Group Winemaker for Australia. Previously years in Canada. Has vintaged Treasury Wine estates. with Australian in Spain, Chile, Canada & Vintages in Tuscany and Vintage and the Australia. Previously worked California. Judged in McGuigan Wine at Hollick Wines, Berri Estates Australia and overseas. Group. Previously & Jackson-Triggs (Canada). Currently with Francois judged with the Judged at the Marananga Freres cooperages and Riverland wine show. (Barossa) wine show and owner winemaker of Okanagan show (Canada). Gargoyle Wines. 106 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

NEW RELEASES The Mix Tape Tellurian Heathcote Clyde Park Single CABERNET Byrne Reserve Clare 'Spanish Fly Mix' Grenache Shiraz Block \"F\" Geelong SAUVIGNON Valley Cabernet South Australia Mourvedre Pinot Noir 2020 Sauvignon 2019 Tempranillo 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 92pts 9 TASTED HHH1/2 92pts 2020 HHH 91pts Earthy red fruit Earthy/savoury nose 7 AWARDED Nice blackcurrant and Lightweight, savoury fragrances with silky with sweet fruit flavours, The older vintages toasty oak nose with Old-World style with smooth palate showing firm gritty tannins with a performed best here a generous plum/olive clean red cherry varietal cherry fruit and savoury finish. Time! but there is good palate and smooth fruit. $15 supported by savoury consistency across all tannins. $28 oak. $29 Singlefile Single vintages. “The better Artwine Hola Single Vineyard Pemberton wines showed off their Passel Estate Lot 71 Vineyard Clare Silver Spoon Estate Pinot Noir fruit character rather than Reserve Margaret Valley Tempranillo Menage a Trois 2020 HHH 91pts the oak,” said one judge. River Cabernet 2020 HHH 91pts Heathcote G.S.M. A big-bodied pinot with Sandalford Sauvignon 2016 Bright, fresh and spicy 2018 HHHH 94pts a lovely generosity of Prendiville HHH1/2 92pts fruit driven wine. “Oak In the riper spectrum cherry fruit and savoury Reserve Margaret Velvety smooth style plays no part!” $32 with a lovely, lifted mix oak. $35 River Cabernet holding up well with of red/black berries Sauvignon 2018 complex varietal Woody Nook with sweet roasted Mount Avoca HHHH1/2 96pts characters and firm Limited Release oak. Plenty of potential. Headspace Organic A riper fuller style with tannins. $96 G&T Margaret Pyrenees Pinot Noir attractive richness. River Tempranillo 3-5 $30 2020 HHH 91pts Smells and tastes of Haselgrove Graciano An elegant flavoursome dark currants and olives Protector McLaren 2019 HHH 91pts PINOT NOIR wine with minty/ with a tarry element Vale Cabernet Super spicy blackberry eucalypt nuances and and lots of fine tannins Sauvignon nose with a fleshy oak 11 TASTED subtle tannins. $49 providing length. $120 2019 HHH 91pts and red fruit palate. $28 6 AWARDED Good depth of bright CABERNET Gralyn Estate blackcurrant fruit GRENACHE & A mixed lot with one BLENDS Reserve Margaret characters with BLENDS company dominating the River Cabernet nice chocolaty oak group. “The better wines 4 TASTED Sauvignon 2017 influence. $40 5 TASTED were not over-oaked or 3 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts 4 AWARDED over-ripe and put the Extremely bright and Jim Brand 'Silent grape varietal characters Generally, from cooler vibrant for its age. Lovely Partner' Coonawarra A strong class showing upfront,” commented regions these blends peppery blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon the great drinkability of one judge. offered good balanced fruit characters with 2018 HHH 91pts the variety – all unctuous and very drinkable wine classy oak and some Savoury earthy nose and and bright. Clyde Park Locale options. leathery-like maturity. a blackcurrant lift with Geelong Pinot Noir more of the same on the RedHeads Princess 2020 HHHH 94pts Leconfield 5+ $120 palate. $40 of Thieves Barossa Pungent leathery Coonawarra Valley Grenache cranberry bouquet with Cabernets Reillys Dry Land Shiraz Mataro a lightweight, slightly 2019 HHHH 95pts Clare Valley 2020 HHHH 94pts sweet, palate and just a A stylish and very Cabernet Sauvignon Attractive aromatics, whiff of oak. varietal cabernet with 2017 HHH 91pts soft and nicely rounded herbaceous blackcurrant Spicy leathery nose in the mouth with Clyde Park Estate fruit characters and and intense prune-like flavoursome integration Geelong Pinot Noir supported by cedary flavour richness to the of fruit and oak. $30 2020 HHH1/2 92pts oak. $30 palate. $38 A somewhat savoury, Artwine Grumpy earthy and dark cherry Sandalford SHIRAZ & Old Man Old Bush nose with a lovely long Prendiville Reserve BLENDS Vine Single Vineyard fleshy red fruit palate. Margaret River 2020 & 2019 Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache Clyde Park Single Shiraz 2017 23 TASTED 2020 HHHH 94pts Block \"D\" Geelong HHH1/2 92pts 16 AWARDED Lovely red cherry/ Pinot Noir Mature Christmas cake strawberry lift to the nose 2020 HHH1/2 92pts nose and nicely evolving, A consistent group “But with generous sweet ripe Subtle berry aromas and fully integrated, savoury have the winemakers fruit flavours and “sandy” a red cherry palate with palate. Still youthful. $120 taken the absence of oak tannins. $40 attractive stemmy notes too far creating simple and earthy hints. Singlefile Great ‘jubey’ wines,” asked one Southern Cabernet judge. “Fresh oak gives Sauvignon Merlot that added dimension.” 2019 HHH 91pts Nicely balanced medium bodied blend with lovely spicy fruit and just a hint of mint. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 107

NEW RELEASES Forester Estate Hereford Heathcote Tellurian Pastiche Beklyn Single Reillys Dry Land Home Block Shiraz 2020 Heathcote Shiraz Vineyard Currency Clare Valley Shiraz Margaret River HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts Creek Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 92pts Shiraz 2019 Full flavoursome Chunky style with an 2020 HHH 90pts Rich fig-like bouquet HHHHH 98pts chocolaty style with intense core of simple Silky smooth wine rich and generous Cool climate Rhone-like hint of mint and gentle lifted dark fruits and soft with fleshy plum fruit varietal fruit flavours style with fragrant red tannins. $16 tannins. $29 and lifted by chocolaty seamlessly layered cherry fruit, subtle use Fifth Estate Wines Shanahans Silence oak. $45 with spicy oak. $38 of cedary oak and long Michele's Vine Is Golden Barossa Allegiance Wines silky tannins. “Looks Geographe Shiraz Valley Shiraz SHIRAZ & The Artisan Aged better after each 2020 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts BLENDS Release McLaren mouthful!” said one Seamless integration Rich plum-like 2018 & OLDER Vale Shiraz 2016 judge. $35 between red berry fruit, varietal fruit nicely HHH1/2 92pts Z Wine Julius spicy/cedary oak and complemented by a 17 TASTED Developing savoury Barossa Valley fine tannins. $23 subtle use of oak. $30 11 AWARDED shiraz with cola-like Shiraz 2019 Inner City Gumpara Wines notes to the nose and HHHH 94pts Winemakers Victor's Old Vine A solid class. “Once sweet berry/nutty oak Sweet oak and raisined- Smoking Gum Barossa Valley again shiraz delivers flavours. $40 like fruit aromas with Hilltops Shiraz Shiraz 2019 with its consistency and Reillys RCV perfumed notes. The 2020 HHH 91pts HHH 91pts generosity of flavour,” 'Epitaph' Clare full-bodied palate is rich Sweet punchy oak nose Big old school style said one judge. “Watch Valley Shiraz with flavour. $70 with a dark fruit lift and with sweet ripe fruit, the level of vanilla oak, 2016 HHH1/2 92pts Bellevue Estate super powerful oak/fruit subtle oak and mouth however, which can Powerful rich sweet McLaren Vale Shiraz flavours. $38 puckering tannins. $32 take away from the fruit dark plum fruit, plenty 2019 HHH1/2 92pts Haycutters McLaren Barossa Valley Wine vibrancy.” of oak and good tannin Inky-like ripe complexity Vale Shiraz Company Stockyard structure. Years ahead of of black fruits and fresh 2019 HHH 91pts Barossa Valley Reillys RCV it! $65 oak nicely balanced by the Intense purple wine with Shiraz 2019 'Pressings' Clare Nietschke Julius silky tannins. $19.99 ripe fleshy plum fruit HHH 91pts Valley Shiraz 2016 Barossa Valley showing subtle mint Nicely matured wine HHHH1/2 96pts Shiraz 2018 influence. $18 with lovely ripe fruit, Obvious concentration HHH 91pts Tellurian Redline lifted oak and grainy of smart varietal fruit Dark sweet plum fruit Heathcote Shiraz tannins. $40 with lashings of oak. with meaty notes, subtle 2019 HHH 91pts Gumpara Wines Tannins are a highlight oak and silky-smooth Silky smooth wine Mader Reserve here; they are silky and tannins. $25 with great depth and Barossa Valley there are lots of them! Reillys Clare Valley intensity of rich fruit with Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2018 chocolaty notes. $23 HHH 91pts 5+ $65 HHH 91pts Z Wine Rustica Rich meaty aromatics Blackberries and plums Barossa Valley and a nice solid core Mr Riggs Burnt here carried by plenty Shiraz 2019 of sweet rich fruit Block McLaren of sweet chocolaty oak HHH 91pts flavours. $60 Vale Shiraz 2018 characters. $25 Upfront oak dominates Gumpara Wines HHHH1/2 96pts Z Wine Rustica the rich plum fruit with The Bake House A well made and stylish Reserve Barossa subtle vanillin oak and Barossa Valley wine with a dark berry Valley Shiraz ripe tannins. $25 Shiraz 2020 nose showing subtle 2018 HHH 91pts HHH 90pts leathery aged notes Ripe stewed fruit Deep purple wine with and a big generous characters nicely lots of perfumed oak and sweet and fleshy fruit integrated with an lifted sweet blackberry palate. $50 intensity of sweet fruit. $19.99 oak. $34 JUDGES - DAY 2 Brett Smith Amanda Trezise Winemaker at Peter Winemaker for Adam Clay Lehmann wines in the TWG - Winemaker for Pirathon Barossa Valley. Associate The Wine Group Wines. Previously judge at the Barossa in Loxton, South winemaker for Penfolds, wine show and small Australia. Previously Lindemans and Taylors. winemakers shows (QLD). with Australian Has completed vintages Has completed AWAC Vintage and the at Marchesi de Frescobaldi course. Previously a McGuigan Wine in Chianti and Pellegrin in winemaker at Lindemans Group. Previously California. Judge at the and Penfolds. Has vintaged judged with the Alternative Varieties show in California. Riverland wine Cairns, Queensland Wine show. Awards and Clare Valley wine show. 108 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

Buller Wines BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 The 1928 Block Rutherglen Shiraz 2018 HHH 91pts Rich ripe ageing style with leathery spicy notes and velvety smooth tannins. $70 Sandalford Prendiville Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2018 HHH 91pts Subtle fruit/oak aromas with sweet vanillin oak tending to override the fruit flavours. $120 Gralyn Estate Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2017 HHH 91pts Bright purple savoury/ meaty oak driven style with tight tannin structure. $120 $U2N0D&ER Litharian Wines Soul Diva Berton Vineyards (NZ $25 & UNDER) Bubbly South Australia Metal Label Riverina Moscato Rosa NV Durif 2020 Subtle toastiness to the Inky wine with big chocolaty/ stonefruit nose with a tight dark plum aromas and flavours crisp palate. $20 and mouth-coating tannins. $14 Litharian Wines (Global Hawk Pty Ltd) Berton Vineyards Phone: 0411 285 990 Phone: 02 6968 1600 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.litharianwines.com.au Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some TO QUALIFY wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by 1 Wines must have first been recommended in Winestate Magazine higher-rated wines. style or new release tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as the best wines currently available, from big-name brands and shiraz/cabernet wines. the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, 2 Wines from designated regional tastings are eligible provided they as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines are widely available. listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more available in the marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. expensive cousins. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 109

TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a discount coupon to use on your wine purchase. When travelling next to the Margaret River Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine tasting experience, the centrepiece of which is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the only one of its kind in Australia and has been a consistent regional award winner in the annual Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards. Visit the website for more information on the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting experiences on offer. 200 Chapman Hill E Rd, Chapman Hill WA 6280 E: [email protected] P: 0448 531 399 W: www.whicherridge.com.au WhicherRidgeWines whicherridgewines Scan the QR code to watch our story video on YouTube

on the scene PUT YOUR BUSINESS HERE Contact Debra for details Phone: 08 85379277 Email: [email protected] • Online store • Distillery • Restaurant • WineTour • Bar • B&B Killara Distillery is located on 26 acres in the heart of the Coal Valley near Richmond and offers complete a Garden to Glass experience. Started in 2016 by second generation Australian distiller Kristy Lark, to create hand craftedTasmanian spirits including Single Malt Whisky, Apothecary Gin, Tasmanian Vodka and seasonal liqueurs. Tours and tastings availableThurs-Sat and other times by appointment. Group booking, distillery school and private tastings available. Killara Distillery [email protected] 3/3 Torca Terrace Mornington VIC 3931 32 Ogilvie Lane, RichmondTAS 7025 IG: @killara_distillery Phone: +61 3 9775 5544 Mobile: +61 408 994 274 www.killaradistillery.com PH: 0405090203 www.cellar-creations.com.au For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au DO YOU WANT OVER 400K PEOPLE TO SEE YOUR BUSINESS? PERFECT FOR ALL: • Cellar Doors • Restaurants • Online Liquor Stores • Wine, Whisky or Gin Bars • Accommodation / Bed & Breakfast CONNECT ON SOCIAL WITH WINESTATE www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine twitter.com/winestateed www.instagram.com/winestate/ Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings, competitions and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 111

contact details ADELAIDE HILLS Hemera Estate NEW RELEASES M. Chapoutier Australia Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8524 4033 Phone: 03 9602 1570 Agnew Wines Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Forester Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: 02 4993 3600 Web: www.hemeraestate.com.au Phone: 08 9755 2788 Web: www.mchapoutieraustralia.com Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.agnewwines.com.au Maygars Hill Winery Web: www.foresterestate.com.au Z Wine Pty Ltd Phone: 0402 136 448 Phone: 0422 802 220 Nova Vita Wines Email: [email protected] Gralyn Estate Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8356 0454 Web: www.maygarshill.com.au Phone: 08 9755 6245 Web: www.zwine.com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.novavitawines.com.au Nick Haselgrove Wines Web: www.gralyn.com.au Zonte’s Footstep Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8323 6124 Phone: 08 7286 3088 BEST BUYS Email: [email protected] NZ RECENT RELEASE Email: [email protected] Web: www.nhwines.com.au Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au Berton Vineyards Akarua NZ Phone: 02 6968 1600 Peccavi Wines Phone: +64 3 445 0897 RIVER REGIONS Email: [email protected] Phone: 0409 544 630 Email: [email protected] Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.akarua.com Ricca Terra Vintners PTY LTD Web: www.peccavi-wines.com Phone: 0429 788 717 Litharian Wines (Global Hawk Pty Ltd) Waiparore Ltd. Email: [email protected] Phone: 0411 285 990 Peter Thompson Wines t/a Sailfish Cove Wines Web: www.riccaterravintners.com.au Email: melanie@litharianwines. Phone: 08 8798 0601 Email: [email protected] com.au Email: sales@ Web: www.sailfishcove.co.nz Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Web: www.litharianwines.com.au peterthompsonwines.com Phone: 03 5024 8888 Web: www.peterthompsonwines. HAWKE’S BAY NZ Email: [email protected] CABERNET & CABERNET com Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au BLENDS Askerne Vineyard NZ Reillys Wines Phone: +64 6 877 6085 SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Anvers Wines Phone: 08 8843 9013 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 7079 8691 Email: cellardoor@reillyswines. Web: www.askerne.co.nz Gumpara Wines Email: [email protected] com.au Phone: 0419 624 559 Web: www.anvers.com.au Web: www.reillyswines.com.au Trinity Hill NZ Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 6 879 7778 Web: www.gumparawines.net.au Brash Vineyard Rymill Coonawarra Email: [email protected] Phone: 0427 042 767 Phone: 08 8736 5001 Web: www.trinityhill.com Hollydene Estate Wines Email: anne_chris@brashvineyard. Email: [email protected] Phone: 02 6576 4110 com.au Web: www.rymill.com.au ORGANIC WINES Email: [email protected] Web: www.brashvineyard.com.au Web: www.hollydeneestate.com Shingleback Wine Bodegas Neleman Deakin Brothers Wines Coonawarra Phone: 08 8323 9919 Phone: +34 634 794 165 Honey Moon Vineyard (Five Star Cellar Pty Ltd) Email: tastingroom@shingleback. Email: [email protected] Phone: 0419 862 103 Phone: 0430 102 314 com.au Web: www.neleman.es Email: wine@honeymoonvineyard. Email: [email protected] Web: www.shingleback.com.au com.au Web: www.deakinbrothers.com.au Chateau De Gaure Web: www.honeymoonvineyard. Swings & Roundabouts Ltd Phone: +33 674 446 423 com.au Gralyn Estate Phone: 08 9756 6735 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 9755 6245 Email: [email protected] Web: www.chateaudegaure.fr Marisco Vineyards Email: [email protected] Web: www.swings.com.au Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Web: www.gralyn.com.au Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard Email: [email protected] Taylors Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 02 9986 1644 Web: www.marisco.co.nz Grandeur Wellington Phone: 08 8849 1115 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8383 0866 Email: [email protected] Web: www.krinklewood.com Mildura and District Wines Pty Ltd Email: [email protected] Web: www.taylorswines.com.au Phone: 0429 460 156 Web: www.grandeurwellington. Macaw Creek Wines Email: [email protected] com.au Zonte’s Footstep Pty Ltd Phone: 0418 890 203 Web: www.chestnutteal.com.au Phone: 08 7286 3088 Email: rod@macawcreekwines. Hay Shed Hill/Pitchfork Email: [email protected] com.au Trentham Estate Pty Ltd Phone: 08 9755 6046 Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au Web: www.macawcreekwines. Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: [email protected] com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.hayshedhill.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au 112 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

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aftertaste ELISABETH KING STATE OF THE NATION - WINE DRINKING INCREASES AND FULL STRENGTH BEER THE NUMBER ONE CHOICE AS a journalist who writes about trends and Gen Xers aged 35 to 49. The biggest wines slumped from 4.3 per cent to 3.7 across a range of subjects, I have always consumers of low alcohol beer are the per cent, according to Roy Morgan. been cautious about joining media over-50s at 3.9 per cent. pile-ons spruiking the next big thing. In In a year like no other, many Australians the majority of cases, articles tracking The core of the beer market is full found time to enjoy their favourite upsurges invariably omit to mention the strength beer with an ABV of at least 4.5 alcoholic beverage - and reversed the dominant market players. per cent, says Michele Levine, CEO of downward trend of the past three years Roy Morgan. “Although there has been a - registering the first increase in the Take online sales. If you believed all great deal of media attention on the new number of Australians drinking alcohol in the standalone hype about soaring craze of hard seltzers, these RTDs in a a calendar year since 2016, notes Levine. e-commerce revenues, you would think can represent only a tiny fraction of the that Australians had given up going to alcohol market compared to beer, and “Driving this increase was an increasing the shops. Far from it. In the calendar particularly full strength beer”. proportion of people consuming wine. year 2020, lockdowns notwithstanding, The popularity of wine during a year of Westfield shopping centres clocked up Australians fell out of the world’s top lockdowns was broad-based with an 450 million customer visits and a spend 10 beer drinking nations by capita long increasing share of both genders drinking of $22 billion. Online sales are climbing ago, leaving the field open to central and wine. Although more women than men fast, but 90 per cent of Australia’s annual eastern Europeans, led by the Czech drink wine, the increase in the number retail revenues of $340 billion still come Republic, Austria, Romania, Germany and of men drinking wine (up 4.5% on 2019) from bricks-and-mortar stores. Poland. Beer might still be the second was larger than for women (up 2.1%). most popular alcoholic beverage, but the The number of people drinking wine also There’s been a lot of clickbait headlines total number of beer drinkers declined increased across the age spectrum and about the popularity of low alcohol beer from 7.35 million in 2019 to 6.87 million perhaps surprisingly the largest increase lately. But new data from Roy Morgan’s in 2020. The wild card here, of course, by age group was for those aged 80-plus recent Alcohol Consumption Report is the impact of lockdowns last year on - up 6.7 points on a year ago”. reveals that full strength beer is still pubs and clubs. the go-to for Aussie suds lovers by a But you have to consider all perspectives country mile. Following four years of flatlining, total in an industry known for its innovation, not alcohol consumption rose 0.8 per cent just the big end of town. The Strongbows Over a third of Australians aged 18-plus in 2020, says Roy Morgan. Last year, and Bulmers may have taken a bit of dive, drink beer in the average four week period 67 per cent of Australians aged 18-plus but Australian craft ciders have enjoyed - 6.27 million - says the researcher. Men consumed alcohol during an average a spike in off-premise sales according to remain the chief consumers of the amber four week period - some 13.33 million. Dan Murphy’s, a strong supporter of the ale by a long shot - 52.4 per cent, by Wine propelled much of the growth, category, which reports that local craft contrast to 17.5 per cent of women. The noted the researcher. The number of ciders have enjoyed the same growth rate strong preference for full strength beer is Australians who regularly drink wine as craft beers across its national network also way out in front for both sexes - 45.9 rose 3.3 percentage points to 41 per over the past year. The retailer sells more per cent for men and 15.2 per cent for cent - a rump of 8.065 million Aussies than 100 Australian-made craft ciders women. to 8.81 million. and says the sales increase stems from consumers looking to support locally-made, Less than one-in-seven (13.9%) drink Spirits were also part of the surge, with independent companies. mid-strength beer and only 4.6 per cent 6.27 million (31.5%) enjoying a tipple in sip low alcohol beer, adds Roy Morgan. 2020 - up from 5.46 million a year earlier. Australian craft ciders make up about 10 The slack isn’t being taken up by women, The RTD segment may be smaller than per cent of the cider market - up from 8 per either. Only 3.5 per cent of women drink its beer and wine counterparts, but cent - as the overall category declined. mid-strength beer and a tiny 1.1 per cent overall consumption increased as 2.39 It’s easy to sort the domestics from the quaff low alcohol brews. million enthusiasts took a swig in 2020, imports; Cider Australia introduced the by contrast to 2.1 million a year earlier. “100 Per Cent Australian Grown” trust If low alcohol beer makers are looking to mark in 2018. To further your knowledge younger generations to make the switch, However, other once trending and enjoyment of craft ciders, the they might be waiting a long time. Only 2.9 categories saw a drop as fewer Australian Cider Guide, written by Max per cent of drinkers age 18 to 24 currently Australians enjoyed their appeal - ciders Allen, the well-known wine writer and drink low alcohol beer, a figure which popularity dropped from 11.3 per cent to cider fan, can be downloaded from www. drops to 1.3 per cent for those aged 25 to 8.4 per cent, liqueurs were down from cideraustralia.org.au. 34 and 1.9 per cent for older Millennials 6.3 per cent to 5.8 per cent and fortified next issue: Lots of great tastings on offer in this issue with the World’s Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge, Emerging & Alternative Varietal (EVAs) Awards, Semillon & Blends and tasting the regions of Limestone Coast (including Coonawarra) & South Island (NZ). 114 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

MEMBER EVENTS COVID - 19 ALERT STATUS *Normally we would have a series of trade and consumer tastings scheduled across Australia at major function venues but with the current social distancing and constantly changing event rules in place this is clearly impossible. Although many events have been fortunate enough to resume in limited capacities, due to the nature of our events and the number of wines, people and the ability to self-pour at our public tastings it is a logistical nightmare with unfortunately too many liabilities to proceed at this time. It seems pointless to flag future possibilities at this stage when we don’t know when things will return to normal or rules will be relaxed. We regret not being able to give you more information, particularly to those sponsors, our valued members and supporters who love attending our events. Stay safe and healthy and as things evolve we will keep you updated. Event cancellations will be posted on our events section of our website. SEPTEMBER 2021 Winestate Wine of the Year 2021 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Event TBA. NOVEMBER 2021 Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (Australia) Adelaide Convention Centre Date to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only and VIP Guests) Event TBA. Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (New Zealand) Date and venue to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only & VIP Guests) Event TBA. JOIN US TODAY! By becomingwa Wwinewsta.tegMremabenr d e u r w e l l i n g t o n . c o m . a u tyiocukewtsilltor2eo0cue1riveeBveclnoemtsw!piltimteSntparryings Road, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171

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