Winestate Magazine July August 2021

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN MELBOURNE is managing the ‘Covid- Bar in its early days and many incarnations with a bonito glaze and salsa verde; tender normal’ world in which we all exist. While since - and it’s a welcome addition to the dry-aged duck or the hand-rolled cavatelli the CBD slowly creeps back to a new way neighbourhood. with black sesame and Skull Island prawns of operating - think gentle hum rather than are all proving popular. its former chaotic buzz - dining rooms This charming Euro-inspired wine bar across our fair city are full, Melbourne offers a hug of comfort as you enter. Natoli and Li share a friendship that diners are staying true to their reputation Breathe out the busy day and settle in to includes opening and working together as lovers of good food, great wine and be presented with one of Melbourne’s most in several well-known venues (Donovan’s, new venues. exceptional wine cellars. Curated by The Neptune Food & Drink, Tokyo Tina, Saigon Prince Hotel’s sommelier, Laurent Rospars, Sally, Rina’s) and are single-minded about New Quarter in Richmond is one of those he has put together a range of local creating a new style of dining experience venues. The most recent addition to the and international wines of extraordinary for locals and hotel guests alike. stable owned by The Commune Group, breadth and depth, showcasing years of who also own Hanoi Hannah and Tokyo experience and expertise. The collection A centrepiece of the third floor space is Tina, among others, this moodily lit dining possesses more than 4000 varieties. The Barrel Room where barrel maturation, room serves food with a contemporary an Australian-first in scale, takes place Vietnamese twist. Food choices are equally accomplished, under the watchful eye of Spirits Master with inspiration from across Australia Phil Smithers. He carefully chooses spirits, Chicken croquettes are beautifully and European styles that include an cocktails and herbal liquors to be laid down seasoned and served with ‘Laughing Cow’ impressive array of cheeses, cured meats in old and new barrels and explores the cream cheese and Yarra Valley Salmon roe. and charcuterie. There are just-shucked outcome in the glass. It’s a texture bomb of pop and ooze and we oysters, escargots with garlic butter (of want to go back for more. course), pork terrine with spiced prunes, The result is a delightful drinking bresaola for days or a luscious wedge of experience, where guests can watch The Banh Mi finger is a slim sandwich Le Marquis Chèvre du Pélussin dressed selections be decanted, explore and packed with chicken liver paté, crispy in walnut oil. compare results, request something be chicken skin and pickled baby cucumbers, barrel-aged, or arrange one of eight sought a fun snack concept. Little Prince Wine also boasts a sizable after seats for a more immersive encounter. communal table, ideal for groups, in Small quantities of signature hotel-aged The beef tartare doesn't deconstruct but addition to private dining rooms. and bottled cocktails will be available to rather restructures a classic with the diced take home, and also feature in the hotel’s raw beef served next to egg yolk with an Little Prince Wine Bar, Ground Floor, The mini bar. earthy beef pho jelly and anchovy tapioca Prince Hotel, 2 Acland St, St Kilda. Phone crisps. (03) 9536 1175. Next Hotel, La Madonna and The Barrel Room, 103 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC Prawn wontons, beef ribs with burnt chilli The doors have opened on La Madonna, 3000. Phone (03) 9118 3352. and charred betel leaf and red curry of an understated restaurant and bar set on crispy pork belly and tamarind caramel the third floor of the new Next Hotel in the Top left: Food from New Quarter. are just some of the larger plates. Service CBD. Above: Little Prince Wine Bar. is relaxed and professional in the room with an industrial edge by designer Ewert It’s not your typical hotel restaurant with Leaf and agency Space Between, regular acclaimed Melbourne chefs, Daniel Natoli collaborators of Commune Group. and Adrian Li at the helm, expect ever- evolving menus that celebrate seasonal Come for the food, stay for the cocktails. produce and their distinctly separate New Quarter, Ground Level, 79 Swan St, culinary heritage - Italian and Chinese Richmond. Phone (03) 8391 1388. respectively - presented with creativity and St Kilda has had a rough few years; rising generosity. rents and then a pandemic but look closely and good things are happening. The Some dishes already have people talking; much-loved Prince Hotel on Fitzroy Street ox heart tomato compressed in white soy, recently opened Little Prince Wine Bar - in stuffed with stracciatella, sits in a bath of the basement space that was home to Mink basil and yuzu kosho oil; a bar snack of skewered and grilled ox tongue is dressed July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 51

I T WO RT H ?W H AT ’ S WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 52 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions PACKAGE 2002 $2,000 which includes hard-copy 2003 Not Released and digital versions plus full 2004 $2,000 on-line access to Winestate’s Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque web site and reviews. Available 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage only through online order, 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 www.winestate.com.au 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 1993 $90 1991 $850  1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  1998 $160  1996 $260 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 GIFTSUBSCRIPTION 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 Tel: 08 8357 9277 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 www.winestate.com.au 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 53

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN ADELAIDE HILLS TASTING IN THE TANK contemporary, modern feel, blended with CARNABY JOINS WICKS rustic, and Scandinavian, influences. ESTATE THE Uraidla Hotel, a magnet for wine The cellar door is carbon neutral both in lovers, offers visitors the chance to do a construction and operationally. Tilbrook THE Wicks family appointed Adam 30-minute wine tasting in The Tank – its Estate is open weekends 11.30am-5pm Carnaby as chief winemaker at Wicks spectacular underground cellar. Book with a selection of platters on offer. Estate in the Adelaide Hills late last year. ahead for tastings for between two and eight people, for $25 per head. Mulled wine is a late autumn, winter “Tim and I are thrilled to announce and early spring special that the Tilbrook Adam as chief winemaker at Wicks Estate Licensed in 1867, The Uraidla Hotel family has been making since 2004. It is and are excited for what the future holds,” has seen many proprietors come and available by the glass, heated up in the Wicks Estate director Simon Wicks said. go, and each one has left their individual cellar door, or you can buy a bottle to legacy for the next. The Uraidla Hotel is take home with you. If you are after a few “His experience across all our key open Monday-Friday noon-2.30pm and bottles you will need to order in advance varietals and his knowledge of vineyard, 5.30-8.30pm and all day for dining for as fresh batches are made every week. terroir and winemaking along with an noon-8.30pm. enormous passion for wine will be a great Tilbrook Estate is at 1856 Lobethal asset for the Wicks brand.” Think dishes like a seasonal tasting Road, about 2.4 km out of Lobethal on board, or maybe Butcher’s Cut of Steak the way to Lenswood. Nearby cellar Carnaby gained winemaking experience with hot garlic cream, charred chilli doors include Golding, Pike & Joyce across Australia, beginning in the Yarra buttered corn, potato salad and mustard and Mount Lofty Vineyard. See www. Valley, where he worked with pinot noir greens. The wine list features star local tilbrookestate.com.au. expert Tom Carson, then in Margaret winemakers, Adelaide Hills, interstate River, with Xanadu Wines. Most recently, and international selections. Adam was chief winemaker at Seppelt Wines in Great Western. See www.uraidlahotel.com.au “I’m extremely excited to be joining the team at Wicks and look forward to working with premium Adelaide Hills fruit from the estate vineyard. It’s paramount that wine be regionally expressive and have a sense of place,” he said. Wicks Estate is a family owned and operated wine company producing hand crafted wines from their vineyard and state-of-the-art winery at Woodside. As a vertically integrated company, it controls the wine making process from vineyard to winery. TILBROOK ESTATE BOUNCES BACK TILBROOK Estate, a small family vineyard and winery destroyed by the December 2019 bushfires in the Adelaide Hills has bounced back with the opening of an eco-zero carbon cellar door. Enjoy platters, tastings, mulled wine and views over the upper Onkaparinga Valley towards Charleston, Woodside and Oakbank. Inside, there is a 54 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

travelbriefs Wicks Estate is open by appointment building and historic schoolhouse has been LOTS ON OFFER IN THE HILLS only, so please ring ahead. www. a labour of love for Wolf Blass and his beloved wicksestate.com.au wife Shirley (who recently passed away after a THE Adelaide Hills are only a short drive long courageous battle with cancer). from Adelaide city but offer accommodation NEW HOME FOR SIMON for every occasion – from secluded cosy TOLLEY Included under the main roof of the building B&Bs, vineyard cottages, hip country pubs is the original Hahndorf School building from and romantic luxury villas to farm stays, THE Adelaide Hills has a new cellar door with 1854 which has been set up as a cooperage eco retreats and camping sites. the opening of the Simon Tolley Wines tasting display. There is also the Wine Barrel Board facility by state premier Steven Marshall in Room where a selection of educational It is easy to get around the region, so late April. The facility features an urban-chic materials on marketing, winemaking and wherever you stay, the region’s highlights vibe with polished concrete floors and offers presentation is available to view. A wine are in easy reach. The Adelaide Hills can a five-wine flight for $20, as well as tastings interpretive area is available as well as Wolfie’s also be used as a base for exploring of artisan cheese from Section28. All the seven-metre-long horse bar with a selection Adelaide and neighbouring regions like the wines are made, fermented and bottled on of trophies from his winning horses. The major Barossa, Fleurieu Peninsula, and Murray the 27-hectare property, which also features attraction on display is the first Melbourne River, Lakes and Coorong. luxury accommodation at Simon Tolley Lodge. Cup trophy won by “Tory Boy” in 1854, a very rare historical racing collection. The pace here is a lot slower than the city. “Not only can you come up for a taste, but For more information and bookings with you can stay up there for the weekend as The wine bar is perfect for enjoying on a local, contact the Adelaide Hills Visitor well,” Tolley says. warmer days, with an al fresco sitting area Information Centre in Hahndorf. with bocce and several other outdoor games. “We wanted to create a home for our wines, SERIOUSLY SIDEWOOD a space where people can relax and enjoy “We aim to be an oasis in what is otherwise wine in the same way we like to enjoy it; it’s a busy street,” says manager James Butcher. SIDEWOOD restaurant and cellar door really an extension of our own home’, says “It’s a unique space with the beautiful wine offers a relaxed wining and dining Narelle Tolley. garden out the back, which is right next to experience, landscaped gardens and the Hahndorf Creek.” artworks just 25 minutes from Adelaide “People can come to our cellar door for City. a tasting or a glass of wine, stay for a while As well as wines, beers and ciders, the and chat to Simon and me about our wines Adelaide Hills Wine Bar also serves food The part jet-black interior is decorated and the viticulture, while looking out over the in the form of tapas, platters, and stone- by works from the likes of John Olsen beautiful vineyards.” baked pizzas. There are over a dozen pizza and Charles Blackwood and Sidewood’s options, a cheese board, seafood platter, award-winning wines can be sampled Simon Tolley Wines cellar door is open charcuterie platter, and the Hahndorf Platter, in the tasting room or paired with the Thursdays to Sundays 11am-5pm or by which features cheeses, Hungarian salami, Australasian menu offered in the restaurant appointment. You will find it at 278 Bird in prosciutto, smoked duck sausage, lavosh, by chef Ali Seedsman. Hand Rd, Woodside. rye bread, grissini, olives and caramelised onion relish. The interior flows outside onto an WOLF’S WINE LEGACY enormous hardwood deck which offers LIVES ON There is also a range of tapas offerings like casual dining experiences. garlic prawn skewers, sautéed Skara chorizo LOCATED in the historic Adelaide Hills and prawns with preserved lemon, Udder The restaurant and cellar door are open township of Hahndorf, the Adelaide Hills Delights ash brie with toasted walnuts and six days (closed Tuesdays). The menu may Wine Bar showcases some of the region’s Buzz blue gum honey, as well as duck paté, feature entrees like salmon tartare, blood best wines as well as tipples from other and a choice of local dips. orange, sesame, spring onion and puffed South Australian wine regions and is also rice, or pickled plum salad, whipped home to the iconic Wolf Blass Gallery & The wine bar is open Monday, Thursday ricotta, crispy prosciutto and toasted Museum, a tribute to the life and career of and Sunday 11am–5pm, Friday until 9pm, hazelnuts, while mains could include char- the winemaking legend. and Saturday until 7pm with live music on grilled chicken breast brined in pear cider, Sundays. You will find the Adelaide Hills Wine corn puree and pepita sauce, or crispy The renovation of the 1912 State Bank Bar at 62 Mount Barker Road, Hahndorf. fried black pepper duck with roasted pumpkin and eggplant and pickled daikon. Wines made by Darryl Catlin can be matched with each dish by the glass and pizzas are available until 3pm weekdays and all day on Fridays and weekends. See www.sidewood.com.au. Top: Simon Tolley in the cellar door. Opposite page top left: The Tank at Uraidla Hotel. Opposite page top right: James Tilbrook of Tilbrook Estate. Opposite page bottom: The team at Wicks Estate. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 55

ADELAIDE HILLS 110 TASTED 79 AWARDED ADELAIDE HILLS After many years of experimenting the Hills are starting to hit Nepenthe Altitude SAUVIGNON their straps! With many different micro-climates in the same Adelaide Hills BLANC place and the tendency to like alternative varieties it is not Gruner Veltliner surprising that this is so. Whilst it was thought that the region 2020 HHHH 94pts 15 TASTED would highlight pinot noir what has emerged is the great result A spicy nose with 7 AWARDED for chardonnays and even bright mid-weight shiraz wines and melon, citrus and floral of course alternative varieties. Lots to look forward to here but nuances with similar “The 2020 was a tough look at the reviews rather than the reputation! characters echoed on vintage but underlying the palate. Good line of zesty mineral fruit SPARKLING Ten Miles East Hahndorf Hill White acid. $22 characters abound and Adelaide Hills Mischief Adelaide K1 Adelaide Hills the best wines brought 3 TASTED Riesling 2018 Hills Gruner Gruner Veltliner this out,” said one 2 AWARDED HHH1/2 90pts Veltliner 2021 2019 HHHH 94pts judge. “Choose wisely.” Smoky lime fruit aromas HHHH1/2 97pts Smells like tinned A couple of worthy and loads of bold citrus A potpourri of a nose apricots with mild citrus Tomich Gallery Wing Aussie sparklings. flavours with a tropical with a dash of white notes. Ripe viscous & Prayer Adelaide note and toasty bottle pepper and citrus palate that’s balanced Hills Sauvignon d’Arenberg age. $30 nuances. Great length and satisfying with crisp Blanc 2020 Pollyanna and volume of zesty acid. $25 HHHH1/2 97pts Polly Adelaide Jericho Adelaide lemon/lime varietal Tomich Woodside Intense bouquet of Hills Sparkling Hills Fiano 2020 flavours with a drying Vineyard Adelaide herbaceous floral fruit Chardonnay Pinot HHH 91pts finish. $24 Hills Gruner fragrances with a zesty Noir NV HHH 91pts Floral fruit fragrances Handcrafted Veltliner 2020 HHH integration of citrus/ Mild strawberry bouquet with honeyed notes and Adelaide Hills 91pts lemon flavours and with yeasty notes and bright fruity flavours. $26 Gruner Veltliner Nose is a warmth of some pungency with a a clean fresh and fruity 2020 HHHH1/2 spices and lemon curd long crisp finish. $18 palate. $35 Nepenthe Pinnacle 96pts with an uncomplicated Adelaide Hills Delightful aromatic flavour profile. $25 Mr Riggs Barristers Block Viognier 2020 HHH lift of sweet melons, The Pawn Wine Woodside Adelaide Poetic Justice 91pts spices and white pepper Co. Adelaide Hills Hills Sauvignon Adelaide Hills Apricot-like bouquet followed by a firm spicy Gruner Veltliner Blanc 2020 Sparkling Blush with a floral lift and hints citrus driven palate that 2020 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 96pts 2018 HHH 91pts of tropical fruits on the has some lovely crunchy Aromas of pineapple, A slight pungent edge to Honeysuckle and palate. $30 acidity. $25 passionfruit and pepper. the ripe peach nose with strawberries lift off the Artwine In The Attractive phenolic a refreshingly clean, nose and has a berry- Ten Miles East Groove Single background to the citrus driven, palate compote of a palate. $25 Adelaide Hills Arneis Vineyard Adelaide palate. $26 with attractive powdery 2018 HHH 92pts Hills Gruner Nepenthe Pinnacle phenolics adding OTHER WHITE Citrus nose with Veltliner 2019 Adelaide Hills complexity. $21.99 VARIETALS & honeyed bottle age and HHHH1/2 91pts Gruner Veltliner BLENDS a dry and somewhat Passionfruit and lychee 2020 HHH 91pts Taylors Adelaide savoury palate. $28 fragrances with toasty A peppery floral bouquet Hills Sauvignon 7 TASTED bottle age developing. with a palate that is Blanc 2020 4 AWARDED GRUNER Great depth of fruit soft and rounded in the HHHH 94pts VELTLINER flavours with retained mouth. $30 Good capsicum and A mixed group of vibrancy and bottle Artwine In The asparagus varietal varieties and styles 10 TASTED age adding more Groove Single aromas with a ripe that the judges thought 9 AWARDED complexity. $35 Vineyard Adelaide tropical palate with a possibly came from Hills Gruner crisp line of underlying younger vines. A very consistent group Veltliner 2020 acidity. $20 showing a great future HHH 91pts for this variety in the Honeyed peach aromas Tomich Hill Adelaide Hills. and complex mix of Hills Sauvignon citrus and tropical Blanc 2020 flavours. $35 HHH 91pts Gooseberry/passionfruit aromas with a pleasant citrus palate and just a hit of bath salts. $22 56 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

regional tasting Nepenthe Altitude Cockfighter’s Ghost Haselgrove “First Orlando Lyndale Haselgrove “Staff” Adelaide Hills Single Vineyard Cut” Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills Pinot Pinot Grigio 2020 Chardonnay 2019 Chardonnay 2019 2020 HHH 91pts Gris 2018 HHH 90pts HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts Tropical nose with a HHHH1/2 96pts Pungent fruit bouquet A good style – very Still youthful and vibrant smoky/medicinal edge Delicious, balanced, with broad sweet fruit Burgundian with flinty with characters of rock and more of a fruity dry long and very flavours and a drying fruit and honeysuckle melon, honeysuckle and white style of palate. $22 flavoursome with finish. $23 sweetness on the ripe pears, sweet oak confectionery fruit nose and loads of and drying tannins. $35 Tomich Woodside aromas and nice Amadio Wines oak and honeysuckle K1 Adelaide Hills Vineyard Adelaide depth of sweet melon Single Vineyard flavours laced with Chardonnay 2018 Hills Sauvignon flavours with some Adelaide Hills attractive barrel ferment HHHH 92pts Blanc 2020 aged characters Pinot Grigio characters. $50 Warm, subtle and HHH 91pts developing. $25 2020 HHH 91pts Orlando Hilary creamy lemon curd-like Pungent passionfruit Tomich Gallery Big and flavoursome Adelaide Hills aromas. Nice textured bouquet with a herbal Rhyme and Reason with balanced Chardonnay 2019 fruit on the rich, edged savoury palate Adelaide Hills Pinot complexity of pure HHHH1/2 97pts seamlessly balanced, and crisp acidity. $25 Grigio 2020 apricots and thick A great style with a palate. $35 HHH 91pts melons. $25 flinty mandarin/orange- Artis Single Karrawatta Anna’s Smells of yeast buns like citrus nose and Vineyard Adelaide Adelaide Hills and apples! Nice flavour Karrawatta Sophie’s ripe fruit flavours with Hills Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc astringency to the Hill Adelaide Hills a mineral edge and 2018 HHHH 94pts 2020 HHH 91pts palate. $18 Pinot Grigio 2020 showing excellent length Subdued nutty citrus Light fruit fragrances and Tomich Hill Adelaide HHH 90pts and richness. At its aromas and a palate a very pleasant, crisp Hills Pinot Grigio Confectionery fruit and peak. $35 that is still showing and well-balanced citrus 2020 HHH 91pts floral nose with a crisp, Sidewood Mappinga vibrant melon fruit palate. $34 Citrus and apples on the light, dry white style of Adelaide Hills layered with sweet nose, soft in the mouth palate. $34 Chardonnay 2019 cashew-like oak. $45 PINOT GRIS/ with full varietal fruit HHHH1/2 97pts Pirramimma GRIGIO flavours. $22 Totino Adelaide Generous tropical fruit Wines Wattle Park Hills Pinot Grigio aromas with toasty Adelaide Hills 9 TASTED 2019 HHH 91pts cashew oak nuances. Chardonnay 2019 7 AWARDED Perfumed citrus blossom Flavoursome fruit HHH1/2 93pts bouquet and lovely palate – good savoury Interesting nose; a Consistent group of depth of sweet melon elements, some slight combination of light wines with good acidity fruit flavours. $25 nuttiness and crisp jubey fruit and oak. Long and structure overall. acidity. $35 savoury palate has a “Building flavour is CHARDONNAY Nepenthe Pinnacle chewy oak finish. $25 the key and achieving Ithaca Adelaide Hills Orlando Lyndale the best results is 17 TASTED Chardonnay 2018 Adelaide Hills site specific without 13 AWARDED HHHH1/2 97pts Chardonnay 2018 excessive yields,” A well-crafted wine HHH1/2 98pts suggested one judge. A very strong with a smoky oak edge “A curio style!” Toasty “This is a promising consistent class. to the honeyed fruit leesy bouquet with variety for the future if “Great to see some nose. Excellent flavour a flinty element and handled well.” creative winemaking profile from a seamless mouthfilling citrus and with lees stirring and integration of quality oak barrel ferment flavours. barrel fermentation, and vibrant fruit. $30 Burgundian! $50 however, watch this is not overdone,” advised one judge. “There is something for everyone with pristine fruit from the Hills providing lots to work with.” JUDGES - DAY 1 David Freschi Peter Simic Andrew Locke Owner/vigneron of Casa Editor/publisher Winestate Winemaker with Freschi for 20 years. Magazine. More than 40 Rosemount Wines Previously senior winemaker years’ experience in the since 1998. Previously for Corbans (NZ), flying wine industry. Formerly he was a winemaker winmaker in Puglia and founding publisher of with Orlando Wyndham Mareema (Italy). One of the first US colour wine and De Bortoli Wines. the pioneers of nebbiolo in magazine, manager of He has completed Australia (1979). the SA Wine Information vintages in the US and Bureau, and wine Loire (France). In 1993 educator with Regency he attended the AWRI College, in SA. advanced assessment course. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 57

ADELAIDE HILLS Chain Of Ponds PINOT NOIR Tomich Gallery Nova Vita Firebird Handcrafted Millers Creek Duck & Weave Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills 11 TASTED Adelaide Hills Sangiovese 2019 Teroldego 2019 Chardonnay 2020 6 AWARDED Pinot Noir 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 92pts HHH 90pts HHH 90pts Sweet red cherry nose A big tannic baby Plump youthful melon A mixed bag with Earthy meaty nose with with slight meaty offering a powerful fruit nose with a crisp varietal definition licorice notes which edge and sweet herbal mélange of earthy, spicy, and lively lemon-like lacking, however if this follows through onto the flavours with mouth- meaty and blackberry palate. On the austere is not an issue for the palate. $20 filling tannins. Just characters. $30 side. $25 reader there were some needs some time. $25 The Pawn Wine Barristers Block nice wines here. “There Nepenthe Altitude Almondcart Co. Adelaide Hills Limited Release seems to be more Adelaide Hills El Dos Single Tempranillo 2018 Adelaide Hills attention to detail with Pinot Noir 2019 Vineyard Adelaide HHH1/2 92pts Chardonnay the chardonnays here HHH 91pts Hills Graciano A well-integrated 2020 HHH 90pts than the pinots when in Sweet perfumed red Maturana Tinta seamlessly balanced An uncomplicated crisp fact pinots are the ones fruit bouquet and 2019 HHHH 95pts wine with some maturity acid style of chardonnay requiring the attention!” textured plum fruit Big alcoholic style. but still vibrant with with attractive zesty said a judge. “However, flavours with soft Generous amount of berry sweetness. $26 citrus characters. $30 the region has huge tannins. $22 ripe black fruits and Nepenthe Pinnacle Nepenthe Altitude potential for the variety dark chocolate with Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills if it is grown in the Taylors Taylor Made sweet spices and soft Mencia Chardonnay right site with greater Adelaide Hills tannins. $32 2020 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts attention to detail in the Pinot Noir 2019 Handcrafted Brooding blackberry and Pungent tropical winemaking process. HHH 91pts Adelaide Hills Durif black olive nose and a fragrances with ripe Meaty/licorice blackberry 2018 HHHH 94pts dense youthful palate lemon and lime-like fruit Barristers Block nose and mid-weight Dense inky and earthy with a tannic finish. $30 flavours. $22 Limited Release berry palate with mild nose of stewed plums Nepenthe Pinnacle Cockfighter’s Ghost Adelaide Hills fruity tannins. $25 and blackberries with a Adelaide Hills Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 nice tight tannic palate Nebbiolo Adelaide Hills HHH1/2 92pts OTHER RED rich with sweet fruit 2020 HHH 91pts Chardonnay Dried fruit aromas with VARIETALS & flavours. $30 Smells of stewed rhubarb 2017 HHH 91pts earthy tones. Fresh and BLENDS Handcrafted and has a big tannic fruit Still has a youthful lively in the mouth with Adelaide Hills filled palate. A baby that freshness of a good backbone of 14 TASTED Tannat 2018 needs time! $30 passionfruit, melons and tannins. $32 13 AWARDED HHHH 94pts Nepenthe Pinnacle citrus with good line of A big nose – smells Adelaide Hills acid. $25 d’Arenberg The A really interesting of licorice and cigar Primitivo Feral Fox Adelaide class of diverse boxes. Huge tannic 2019 HHH 91pts ROSÉ Hills Pinot Noir wines. “Because of palate with interesting Chocolaty/dark licorice 2019 HHH1/2 93pts the mini climates in stonefruit texture and nose and sweet lifted 3 TASTED A leafy green bouquet the Hills there are astringency. $30 raspberry flavours with 2 AWARDED with some dark fruit good opportunities to racy acidity. $30 notes and a harmony experiment with both Barristers Block A couple of good of stonefruit and oak warm and cool climate Limited Release quaffing wines here! flavours. $32 wines,” said one judge. Adelaide Hills Amadio Wines “Bring on diversity!” Tempranillo Evanescence Range Ten Miles East 2019 HHH 90pts Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Jericho A deep purple wine with Nebbiolo Rosé Pinot Noir 2017 Adelaide Hills a stewed berry nose and 2020 HHH 90pts HHH1/2 92pts Tempranillo 2020 a mouthful of sweet fruit A nose of dusty fruit and Stewed ripe fruit nose HHHH1/2 96pts flavours. $34 dried herbs with savoury with meaty highlights. A purple/red wine with The Pawn Wine entry to the palate and a Palate has interest, a lovely youthful and Co. Adelaide Hills hint of sweetness. $25 complexity, harmony and vibrant berry and plum Sangiovese Jericho Adelaide length. $45 bouquet and delicious 2018 HHH 90pts Hills Rosé fresh and lively sweet Meaty/cherry 2020 HHH 90pts plum flavours with a combination of aromas Potpourri of aromas and backbone of soft drying with light berry flavours red fruit flavours with tannins. $26 and an oaky finish. $26 slight spiciness and warming alcohol. $26 58 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

Ten Miles East SHIRAZ/SYRAH Nepenthe Pinnacle regional tasting Adelaide Hills Gate Block Adelaide Saperavi 2017 17 TASTED Hills Shiraz 2018 CONNECT ON SOCIAL HHH 91pts 12 AWARDED HHH1/2 92pts WITH WINESTATE A dense powerful inky Shy nutty/blackberry fruit cake of a nose with A consistent group nose and reasonable www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine a dark heavy black fruit with some very nice palate structure with twitter.com/winestateed palate. $45 wines but the judges tannins building nicely in commented on how a the mouth. $30 www.instagram.com/winestate/ CABERNET & few were overworked K1 Adelaide Hills Follow us and keep up to date with all our BLENDS or overblown. “The Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 latest wine info, tastings, competitions and Hills region should Serious quality oak events on facebook, twitter and instagram. 4 TASTED differentiate itself through on the nose matched 4 AWARDED the charm and vibrancy with pristine fruit of its wines rather than that continues on to A solid group of cool copying the neighbouring the palate. Lingering climate cabernet styles. Barossa and McLaren finish. $45 Vale areas,” commented The Pawn Wine Co. K1 Adelaide Hills a judge. “Big is not Adelaide Hills Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon always better and with 2019 HHH 91pts 2018 HHHH 94pts little effort the Hills can Mocha/chocolate Nose is an elegance produce vibrancy and that bouquet and a peppery of blackcurrants and is its strength and point blackberry palate with a mulberries with a minty of difference, so don’t go racy acid finish. $36 lift. Lovely balanced away from that!” Sidewood Tyre sweet cassis palate. Fitter Adelaide Hills Good tannins. $45 Tomich Woodside Syrah 2019 Vineyard Adelaide HHH 90pts Nepenthe Altitude Hills Shiraz 2019 Earthy dark fruit Adelaide Hills HHHH1/2 96pts fragrances with a choc Cabernet Sauvignon Dense and inky blackberry mint palate, light tannins 2018 HHH 91pts jam aromas with some and drying oak. $50 Vanillin oak dominated minty nuances. Lovely Sidewood Mappinga nose with good varietal youthful integration of Adelaide Hills Shiraz flavours on the assertive stonefruit flavours on a 2019 HHH 91pts tannic palate. $22 palate with a sweet tannic Blackberry/mocha nose finish. $30 with a peppery lift and Chain Of Ponds sweet fruit tannins Cachet Adelaide Amadio Wines across the palate. $60 Hills Cabernet Single Vineyard K1 Middle Hill Shiraz 2018 Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Shiraz HHH 91pts Shiraz 2018 2018 HHH 90pts Smells of blackberry jam HHHH1/2 97pts Spicy black fruit aromas with a rich ripe palate. A developed toasty and with a minty lift and Good length of sweet nutty nose and showing similar characters echoed tannins. $100 great depth and vibrancy on the palate. $25 of cassis and sweet Hahndorf Hill Totino Adelaide Hills spicy fruit on the palate Adelaide Hills Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon with a long warming 2018 HHH 91pts 2017 HHH 91pts finish. $30 Big inky style with solid A menthol lift to the blackcurrant, beetroot blueberry bouquet with Nepenthe Altitude and dark chocolaty an aged mocha/caramel- Adelaide Hills Shiraz characters. $45 like flavour profile. $25 2018 HHHH 94pts Ten Miles East A complexity of black Adelaide Hills Syrah fruit and spices on 2018 HHH 90pts the nose with a well- Mature brooding fruit structured palate that nose with big ripe sweet “builds to a crescendo”. fruit flavours and a Great acid. $22 chewy oak finish. $55 Totino Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2018 HHHH 94pts A big hit of spicy black fruit on the nose with a dash of pepper and lovely warm ripe red/ black fruit flavours. $25 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 59

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BORDEAUX BLENDS 244 TASTED & 137 AWARDED CABERNET SAUVIGNON BORDEAUX BLENDS This is one of our favourite judgings of the year involving king Reillys RCV Silkwood Estate cabernet sauvignon and its siblings; merlot, malbec, cabernet ‘Stoneflower’ Clare The Walcott franc and petite verdot, often described as bordeaux blends. Valley Merlot 2014 Pemberton Malbec (Note the lower case “b” in bordeaux because we are not HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts referring to Bordeaux in France, just the varieties that are well Nicely matured food Savoury leathery aromas known from there). Most would argue that cabernet plays the wine with secondary and a full fleshy palate lead role and the other varieties are the players, but there are fruit characters and with a sweet fruity exceptions as we sometimes see. Generally however the artist in chocolaty notes. $40 finish. $30 the winemaker likes to see a blend of the varieties and in its best form it can be magical. MALBEC & PETIT VERDOT BLENDS & BLENDS 4 TASTED 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED 1 AWARDED MERLOT & De Beaurepaire Le Reillys Dry Land An interesting variety One good example of BLENDS Chevalier Central Clare Valley Merlot with all three wines the variety showing Ranges NSW 2017 HHH 90pts reviewed coming from bright young primary 16 TASTED Merlot Cabernet Full bodied, ripe and WA. “At their best these fruit flavours. 8 AWARDED Petit Verdot 2016 chocolaty varietal with are bright and very HHHH 94pts attractive savoury approachable,” noted Rymill Coonawarra Mixed results “A Spicy blue fruit aromas elements. $32 one judge. pv Coonawarra solid group with the with lifted florals and Reillys RCV Petit Verdot 2020 better wines showing an elegant and stylish ‘Moonvine’ Clare Singlefile Great HHH 91pts good colour with palate with silky smooth Valley Merlot Southern Malbec A young uncomplicated great complexity, tannins. $35 Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 HHH 91pts wine with bright lifted concentration and depth Leconfield 2017 HHH 91pts Lifted berry nose with red fruit aromas and of flavour,” said one Coonawarra Sweet spicy fruit a floral touch and flavours. $25 judge. Coonawarra Merlot fragrances and fleshy straightforward licorice 2019 HHH 90pts tannic palate starting to driven palate. $25 CABERNET Mount Avoca Estate Fresh varietal red and develop nicely. $40 FRANC & Organic Pyrenees blue berry nose with Reillys RCV Hay Shed Hill World BLENDS Merlot 2019 a soft, smooth and ‘Stoneflower’ Clare Series Margaret HHHH 94pts flavoursome palate. $26 Valley Merlot 2016 River Malbec 2019 2 TASTED Dense fruit aromas Majella Coonawarra HHH 91pts HHH 91pts 2 AWARDED with a menthol lift Merlot 2018 Soft and fleshy with a Excellent red berry and good weight and HHH 90pts rich balance of chocolate varietal fruit characters Good juicy flavours concentration of fruit on Brooding briary bouquet and dark berries with layered with firm showing here with the firm oak, soft tannin, with oak adding firm tannins. $40 tannins. $30 typical violet overtones. palate. $37.95 complexity to the acid driven palate. $30 JUDGES - DAY 1 Matt O’Leary Michael Kane Chief winemaker for Senior winemaker, Stephen John Savitas Wines in the Knappstein Wines. Senior Winemaker for The Barossa Valley. Formerly Completed the AWAC Wine Group Australia and Senior Winemaker for course in 2010. owner/winemaker of Stephen Wolf Blass Wines. Previously winemaker at John Wines. More than 30 Judge at the Barossa Devil’s Lair WA (7 years), years’ winemaking experience. wine show. Panelist Stella Bella and Wolf Has judged at Adelaide, at the Advanced Wine Blass Wines. National, and Barossa wine Assessment Course. shows. Regular Winestate panellist and chairman of judges at the Winestate Wine of the Year Awards. 60 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

varietal tasting Sam Miranda Of Red Knot McLaren CABERNET & Reillys Barking Seabrook Wines King Valley Girls Vale Cabernet BLENDS Mad Clare Valley Lineage Barossa Block King Valley Sauvignon 2019 $20-$25 Cabernet Sauvignon Valley Cabernet Cabernet Franc HHHH 94pts 2018 Malbec 2018 Merlot Cabernet Dense choc mint 19 TASTED HHHH1/2 96pts HHH1/2 93pts Sauvignon Petit bouquet and lifted 12 AWARDED A well-made, bolder and Mature aromas with Verdot Malbec 2018 varietal fruit flavours on A mixed group with more old-fashioned style a floral lift and a bold, HHHH 94pts the rich textured palate the older vintages of cabernet, maturing sweet fruit palate offering Lifted fragrances of blue underscored with firm showing advanced well with dark ripe easy drinking. $21 fruits edged with violets tannins. $15 characteristics. The top plum-like fruit characters d’Arenberg The High and an alert and nicely Tail Spin Langhorne scoring wines show and some solid oak in Trellis McLaren Vale textured palate. Very Creek Cabernet great value for money support. $20 Cabernet Sauvignon stylish! $55 2019 HHH 91pts with their “punchy” Richard Hamilton 2017 HHH1/2 92pts The nose is lifted and weight and vibrancy. A ‘Hut Block’ McLaren A floral/menthol style Hemera Estate licoricey with a well- step up in quality. Vale Cabernet of cabernet that is Limited Release structured, mid-weight, The Coonawarrior Sauvignon 2018 flavoursome, well- Barossa Valley palate. $15 by Leconfield HHHH1/2 96pts structured and ageing Cabernet Franc Bird’s Eye View Coonawarra A lovely spicy well. $21 2018 HHH 90pts McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon blackcurrant nose here Andrew Peace Lolly-like nose with Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 with hints of rose petals. Empress cola elements and 2019 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 96pts Rich, sweet fruit, palate Wrattonbully flavoursome sweet fruit A solid wine with ripe Rich black and blue berry with dusty oak and Cabernet Sauvignon on the palate. $60 blackberry varietal bouquet with a violet grainy chewy tannins. 2019 HHH 90pts characters and nice lift. Palate has elegance, Ageing well. $24 Lifted estery fruit nose CABERNET & tannic grip. Good value! freshness and balance Greg Norman and fresh juicy fruit BLENDS $16 with savoury elements. Estates Limestone palate. A very nice UNDER $20 Kurtz Family A modern style offering Coast Cabernet quaffer. $20 Vineyards Seven value for money. $22 Sauvignon 2019 Castelli Frankland 12 TASTED Sleepers The Blend HHH1/2 92pts River Cabernet 5 AWARDED Barossa Cabernet Rymill Coonawarra An aromatic complexity Merlot 2018 Sauvignon Petit The Dark Horse of varietal fruit, fresh HHH 91pts Some good value wines Verdot Shiraz 2019 Coonawarra oak and some leafy Attractive red berry here but there were HHH 91pts Cabernet Sauvignon elements. An elegant fruit with herbal notes, others that failed to Nose of blackberries 2019 palate. $22 gravelly tannins and a make the cut. “The best and fresh oak and HHHH1/2 96pts Semitone - GLM The judicial use of oak. $22 exhibited nice cabernet a generous, nicely Chocolaty/dark fruit Wild Dog Pyrenees The Coonawarrior varietal characters.” maturing, palate. Good fragrances and a silky Victoria Cabernet by Leconfield blend. $18 smooth, well balanced, Sauvignon 2018 Coonawarra Oryx Margaret River palate with an excellent HHH1/2 93pts Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon flavour profile and some Simple, bright red, 2018 HHH 91pts 2020 lovely, sweet oak. Good up-front cherry/berry Blackcurrant bouquet HHHH1/2 96pts value. $23 style with herbal notes with violet nuances and Bright crimson wine and savoury elements. an elegant uncomplicated with great depth of dark $20 palate. $22 berry aromas layered Swings & with oak and with a Roundabouts typical minty note. Long, Margaret River full bodied, flavoursome Cabernet Sauvignon and well-structured 2018 HHH 90pts palate. $19.99 Delicate red berry nose and a medium bodied palate in a greener spectrum. $24 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 61

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BORDEAUX BLENDS CABERNET & Maygars Hill Mission Reserve Patritti Merchant Shingleback Davey BLENDS Strathbogie Ranges Hawke’s Bay McLaren Vale Estate McLaren Vale $25-$30 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2020/2019 2019 2019 HHHH 94pts 2019 HHH 91pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts Soft approachable wine Perfumed elegance to The nose is rich and 16 TASTED An attractive with rich blackberry the nose and a palate estery with lifted aromas 11 AWARDED straightforward bright fruit complemented with precision and of blackcurrants. Lovely purple wine with spicy, by the oak and chewy poise. $25 softness to the vibrant A youthful line-up that minty and floral aromas tannins. $29 blackcurrant/blueberry delivers freshness and and fresh berry fruit Andrew Peace Singlefile Great palate with nicely good varietal character. flavours, silky tannins Colour Of Raven Southern Cabernet balancing tannins. $25 “Good varietal depth and vibrant acidity. $28 Limestone Coast Sauvignon Merlot and balance here,” said The Composer by Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 HHH 91pts one judge. Majella Coonawarra 2019 HHH1/2 92pts A well-made wine Cabernet Sauvignon Subtle cassis/floral with herbal/redcurrant Angas & Bremer 2019 HHHH 94pts fragrances with a elements. “Pleasurable Langhorne Creek Minty, vanillin oak rich, youthful and to the end!” $25 Cabernet 2019 aromas and sweet flavoursome cherry/berry HHHH1/2 96pts cassis flavours with light palate. $25 Calcannia Clare A bright modern style use of oak and savoury Bec Hardy Wines Valley Cabernet wine with cassis and tannins. Drinking well Pertaringa Sauvignon 2019 new oak lifting off the now. $25 Understudy McLaren HHH 91pts nose and lovely richness Vale Cabernet Complex earthy hints and softness in the Sauvignon 2019 to the nose with lovely mouth with a tight HHH1/2 93pts cassis/sweet oak finish. $25 A bright herbal/minty flavours. $28 style of cabernet with nice spicy oak and CABERNET & flavours that linger on BLENDS and on! $25 $25-$30 Jaeschkes Hill River 2018 & OLDER Clare Estate The Ruby Clare Valley 25 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon 11 AWARDED Cabernet Franc Merlot 2020 A very mixed bag here! HHH 91pts The difficult 2017 Very youthful with bright vintage showed up in lifted varietal fruit, chewy these results but with tannins and a savoury a few exceptions the finish. $28 2018s performed well, By: Geoff Hardy still holding up and Adelaide Hills showing vibrancy. Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 HHH 90pts Lovely richness of cassis-like varietal fruit layered with sweet oak and floral notes. $25 JUDGES - DAY 2 Stephen John Chris Hatcher Senior Winemaker for The Chief winemaker for Bill Hardy Wine Group Australia and Wolf Blass Wines, part Corporate oenologist for owner/winemaker of Stephen of Treasury Estates, and Accolade Wines (formerly John Wines. More than 30 formerly Foster’s Group, Constellation). 28 years’ years’ winemaking experience. Beringer-Blass Australia winemaking experience in Has judged at Adelaide, for the past 10 years. places such as McLaren National, and Barossa wine Senior judge at Perth, Vale, WA and France. Has shows. Regular Winestate Sydney, Adelaide and judged internationally panellist and chairman of Brisbane wine shows. (France & Japan), and been judges at the Winestate Wine an associate senior judge at of the Year Awards. 20+ state & regional wine shows in Australia. 62 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

varietal tasting Deakin Brothers Kimbolton CABERNET & Anvers Limited Welland Valley Wines Coonawarra Langhorne Creek BLENDS Release Adelaide & Valley Barossa The Knight Cabernet Sauvignon $30-$35 Hills Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2018 HHH1/2 93pts Sauvignon 2018 2019 HHHH 94pts Cabernet Sauvignon Rich fruit cake-like 25 TASTED HHHH1/2 96pts A rich, ripe, oak driven 2018 HHHH 94pts bouquet. Soft in the 16 AWARDED Lifted up-front ripe fruit cabernet with savoury, Lovely lift of cassis fruit mouth with a generous A very strong and cake and plum jam-like earthy and olive-like aromas with rich sweet core of sweet fruit/oak consistent group of aromas and a smooth elements. Good palate fruit flavours balanced by flavours. $25 wines; a step up from evenly textured palate length with chewy a complexity of sweet Grounded Cru the previous class. with flavours of blue tannins. $30 rich oak. $25 Cru McLaren Vale “Freshness, balance fruits and laced with Beresford Classic Wines By Geoff Langhorne Creek and concentration,” dusty tannins. $30 McLaren Vale Hardy Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon were the words used Anvers Langhorne Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Malbec 2018 by the judges. “There is Creek Cabernet 2018 HHHH 94pts 2018 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 93pts a reduction in wineries’ Sauvignon 2018 Dense dark and very Bright lifted cassis/ Dark fruit aromas with oak budgets these HHHH1/2 96pts oaky nose and a lively sweet oak nose and an a potpourri lift and days and that is a good Intense varietal palate exhibiting layers attractive restrained blue generous palate bright thing,” said one judge. characters here with of mocha, spice and fruit palate with an alert with fruit flavours. $28 “This allows the fruit to confectionery notes to mint-like characters. $30 acid line. $25 Hay Shed Hill shine through.” the nose and generous Taylors Wines Tahbilk Nagambie Margaret River amount of sweet blue Jaraman Clare Lakes Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Zonte’s Footstep fruit on the long, richly Valley Coonawarra Sauvignon 2012 2018 HHH1/2 93pts Blackberry Patch textured, palate. $32 Cabernet Sauvignon HHHH 94pts Rich older style with Fleurieu Peninsula Barristers Block 2018 HHHH 94pts A leathery cigar box lifted varietal aromas and Cabernet Sauvignon Wrattonbully Blue fruit aromas with complexity to the a flavoursome palate Tempranillo 2019 Cabernet 2019 black olive nuances mature nose and a with chewy tannins. $28 HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts and an elegant and tight spicy plum palate. Kurtz Family Bright purple wine, A bouquet of cassis fruit restrained palate with “Excellent dinner wine.” Vineyards Boundary Joven in style with with a floral note and a good level of tannins $25.70 Row Barossa a lifted estery spicy bright, fresh and lifted and acid. $32 Claymore Wines Cabernet Shiraz raspberry bouquet and blue fruit palate. Needs Bittersweet 2017 HHH 90pts a light, nicely textured, more time. $30 Peter Thompson Symphony Clare A very big, old school, palate lifted with dark Silkwood Estate The Wines Coonawarra Valley Cabernet blockbuster of a wine. fruit flavours. $30 Walcott Pemberton Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2018 High alcohol and drying Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH1/2 93pts HHH1/2 92pts tannins. $28 2019 HHHH 94pts Toasty spicy oak nose Spicy dried fruit aromas Bunnamagoo Estate An elegant and classy and generous dark with hints of cloves and Mudgee Cabernet purple/red wine with a fruit flavours with an a generous chocolaty Sauvignon 2016 nose of dark fruit and attractive dried fig-like palate with grainy HHH 91pts bacon bone-like oak note. $30 tannins. $25 Lifted varietal bouquet that is echoed on the and lovely rich complexity palate. $30 of flavours with a savoury element. $25 Koonara Wanderlust Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 HHH 90pts A slightly leathery mature nose and a generous, full bodied, sweet fruit palate. $28 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 63

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BORDEAUX BLENDS Rymill Coonawarra CABERNET & Castelli Estate Reillys Dry Land CABERNET & Classic Release BLENDS Frankland River Clare Valley BLENDS Coonawarra $35-$40 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon $35-$40 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019/2018 2018 2018 HHH1/2 92pts 2017 & OLDER 2018 HHH1/2 93pts HHHH1/2 96pts Beautiful complexity A complex ripe red 22 TASTED Excellent depth of colour here of ripe blackberry 13 TASTED berry bouquet with 14 AWARDED with nice rich cassis/ fruit and oak with 3 AWARDED good complexity and Another consistent blackberry bouquet and an excellent palate generosity of fruit group of wines. “The a big tannic palate but structure. $38 Disappointing! Most of flavours. $32 better performers well balanced with lovely Mount Avoca Estate these wines were just Saracen Estates delivered flavour and flavours and nice use of Organic Pyrenees too developed. “Too Margaret River structure which is sweet oak. $38 Cabernet Sauvignon many were either too Cabernet Sauvignon expected at this price Majella Coonawarra 2019 HHH 90pts green, leathery and 2016 HHH1/2 93pts point; some blends Cabernet Sauvignon A big style of cabernet lacking vitality,” said one Dark spicy fruit nose performed very well,” 2018 HHHH 94pts ripe with red and black judge. and generous palate still commented one judge. A well-made wine - berry fruit and strong showing good clarity of balanced and slightly tannins. $37.95 Firetail Margaret varietal fruit. $32 The Gate By restrained with the oak Richard Hamilton River Cabernet Leconfield Shingleback in a complementary role ‘Hut Eleven’ Single Sauvignon 2017 Coonawarra McLaren Vale to the varietal fruit. $35 Vineyard McLaren HHH1/2 92pts Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Brangayne Of Vale Cabernet A classic style of Cabernets 2019 Shiraz 2018 Orange Tristan Sauvignon 2019 cabernet – good depth HHH 90pts HHHH1/2 96pts Orange NSW HHH 90pts of purple, lovely ripe Earthy blackcurrant An estery bouquet with Cabernet Sauvignon Quite a tannic wine with cassis fruit and grainy aromas and an elegant a lift of dark berry and Shiraz 2018 nice lift of fresh cassis tannins. $36 blue fruit palate with cassis aromas and a rich HHHH 94pts fruit and a dash of sweet tight tannins. $30 well-balanced palate Very youthful looking for oak. $38 Flowstone Margaret McLaren Vale with good depth and a 3-year-old. The nose is Thorn-Clarke River Cabernet III Associates length of flavours. An closed and inky with a Shotfire Barossa Sauvignon Touriga Renaissance elegant wine. $39.95 palate full of fresh red Quartage 2018 2015 HHH 90pts McLaren Vale berries and oak. $38 HHH 91pts A well-balanced Cabernet Merlot Brangayne Of A mature chocolate cake lightweight that still has 2019 HHH 91pts Orange Orange NSW of a nose with a rich freshness of fruit with Attractive blend more in Cabernet Sauvignon ripe old school style of good use of oak. $36 the blue fruits spectrum 2018 HHHH 94pts palate. $35 and laced with fresh A fragrant lifted cassis Z Wine Audrey Yarravale Reserve sweet oak. $30 bouquet with a long Barossa Valley Yarra Valley Paulett Wines lingering and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley palate exhibiting very 2018 HHH 90pts 2014 HHH 91pts Cabernet Merlot stylish flavours. $38 A delicate Light commercial style 2019 HHH 91pts Leconfield straightforward style still showing freshness Blueberries and plums Coonawarra with subtle varietal fruit of berry fruit on a tight on the nose and palate Coonawarra and some dusty oak palate. $36 with chewy tannins and Cabernet Sauvignon notes. $35 a savoury finish. $30 2018 HHH1/2 92pts Woody Nook Single CABERNET & Bowen Estate Light, lifted and minty Vineyard Margaret BLENDS Coonawarra style of cabernet; River Cabernet $40-$50 Cabernet Sauvignon quite ethereal with a Merlot 2018 2019 HHH 91pts complexity of oak and HHH 91pts 26 TASTED Big old school style of tannins. $35 A strong leafy/cassis 14 AWARDED cabernet with a ripe fruit Firetail Margaret varietal signature here nose and a soft and juicy River Cabernet with good use of spicy The judges agreed fruit palate. $32 Sauvignon 2018 oak. $36 that the best wines Paulett Wines HHH1/2 93pts Heartland Wines here were very good Clare Valley A firm, full-bodied wine Directors’ Cut but there were some Cabernet Merlot with a great cassis-like Langhorne Creek pretenders too. “Too 2018 HHH 91pts varietal core and a fine Cabernet Sauvignon many advanced wines Fresh varietal fruit line of tannins. $36 2018 HHH 91pts which reflects on both characters with some Aged notes developing the winemaking and the green herbal notes and on the nose with good viticulture,” commented balancing oak. $30 depth of varietal fruit one judge. flavours. $38 64 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

varietal tasting Bec Hardy Wines Grounded Cru Brash Road Vineyard Wicks Estate C.J. Pertaringa Rifle & Inc McLaren Vale S.V. Margaret River Wicks Adelaide Hills Hunt McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH1/2 92pts 2018 HHH 91pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts Another very youthful Fresh, sweet and A classy number with A well-made, warm, primary wine. Lovely straightforward red berry amazing depth of chocolaty classic. purple hue and very driven cabernet. Good colour. Shows beautiful Excellent purple colour complex with lots of commercial style. $45 complexity of fruit with an abundance of oak. $45 and oak. Super palate blackberry fruit on the Saddler’s Creek Pewter Coonawarra structure. Plenty of nose and palate. Great Wines Bluegrass Cabernet Sauvignon cellaring potential ahead depth of flavour. $45 Langhorne Creek 2015 HHH 91pts of it. $40 Grounded Cru SA & Mudgee NSW An oak dominated style Inc McLaren Vale Cabernet Merlot with a big leafy/minty lift. Taylors Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH1/2 93pts Has great richness and Masterstroke 2016 “A very serious style,” intensity of fruit. $45 Coonawarra HHHH1/2 96pts according to one judge. A Cabernet Sauvignon A huge, hot, mouth- lovely mix of sweet oak CABERNET & 2019 HHHHH 98pts filling, black bombshell and ripe berry fruit. $45 BLENDS A stylish, well made, of oak and sweet fruit. Grounded Cru $50-$60 deep crimson wine with Amazing intensity of Inc McLaren Vale lovely fresh varietal fruit black forest cake-like Cabernet Sauvignon 14 TASTED characters of cassis aromas and flavours. $45 2019 HHH 91pts 10 AWARDED and mint. Fleshy and Beautiful ripe black flavoursome in the Haselgrove berry fruit on the “Starting to get your mouth with vibrant Protector McLaren nose and the nicely money’s worth here,” tannins. $40 Vale Cabernet controlled palate. $45 said one judge. “Here Sauvignon 2018 Sunshine Creek we are seeing intensity HHHH 94pts Yarra Valley of varietal fruit with A classy vibrant wine Cabernets 2019 great depth without with a shy nose but HHH 91pts being over-extracted or a beautiful, long and Subdued and delicate over-oaked.” seamlessly balanced varietal with some varietal fruit palate. $40 greenness to the nice dark cherry fruit. $45 Brash Road Vineyard K1 Adelaide Hills S.V. Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Saddler’s Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH 94pts Wines Bluegrass 2019 Still very youthful with Langhorne Creek HHHH1/2 96pts oak tending to dominate SA Cabernet Shiraz Tight, inky, cool climate the fruit, for now, but 2018 HHH 91pts style with typical offers great cellaring A clean oak driven cassis and crushed ant potential. $45 cabernet with nice characters on both the simple red berry fruit nose and a well-balanced and drying tannins. $45 palate that shows length and elegance. $45 Charnwood Estate in Mudgee is a small player kicking big goals with its Shiraz and Merlot. As small and boutique as wineries come, Charnwood demanded everyone’s attention when its 2009 Charlie’s Row Merlot won against some higher profile wineries in the 2011 Winewise Championship. Charnwood Estate is located in the Mudgee wine region of NSW; located on a historic property just 5 minutes from the centre of Mudgee and nestled at the foot of the hills in the delightful Cudgegong Valley. At Charnwood, we specialise in red wines and are particularly proud of our Shiraz which keeps going from strength to strength. For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 65

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BORDEAUX BLENDS Knappstein Wines Reillys RCV ‘The Enterprise Vineyard Dancer’ Clare Valley Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 HHH1/2 92pts 2019 HHHHH 98pts Clean, well-balanced, An intense crimson oak driven style that is hued wine that is very big and rich but quite youthful with many developed. $50 years ahead of it yet. Claymore Wines It exhibits great depth, Black Magic Woman concentration and Reserve Clare Valley vibrancy of varietal fruit Cabernet Sauvignon richness. $53 2018 HHH 91pts A big, rich and complex old school style. Loads of oak and a huge palate. $50 Swings & Beresford Estate Hay Shed Hill Block Clarence Hill Roundabouts McLaren Vale 2 Margaret River Reserve McLaren Backyard Stories Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Cabernet Margaret River 2017 HHH 91pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts Sauvignon 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon A rich chocolaty style Quite typical of a leafy HHHHH 98pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts of cabernet – quite cool climate cabernet Lovely bouquet that is a A lively number, super oaky with good line of with excellent varietal fragrant mix of red berry blackberry/cassis fruit, acid. $50 fruit aromas layered fruit and mulberries. A lovely cedary oak, typical Reillys RCV ‘The with cedar-like oak delightfully rich sweet crushed ant-like nuances Dancer’ Clare Valley with these characters varietal fruit palate with and perfect level of acid. Cabernet Sauvignon echoed on the still layers of silky-smooth “A delight to judge and 2016 HHH 91pts vibrant palate. $60 tannins. $65 drink!” $55 A big, dense and Kerrigan + Berry Woody Nook mature wine, rich with Mount Barker Gallaghers Choice confectionery sweet Margaret River Margaret River fruit characters. $50 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHHH 98pts 2018 Reillys RCV ‘The Gaelic Cemetery Saracen Estates An oak driven style of HHHH1/2 96pts Dancer’ Clare Valley McAskill Clare Reserve Margaret cabernet – there is lots A very flavoursome Cabernet Sauvignon Valley Cabernet River Cabernet of oak, but it is lovely Bordeaux-like style of 2018 HHHHH 98pts Malbec 2019 Sauvignon 2016 classy oak with the wine with masses of Long, varietally pure and HHHH 96pts HHH 90pts intense ripe blackberry lovely lifted oak but has still very fresh. Great A classy, complex and A tad old fashioned jam-like varietal fruit an intense complexity crimson colour with perfectly balanced wine in style with great pushing its way of cabernet fruit behind powerful, rich and ripe with ripe cassis fruit, leathery development. A through. $60 it. $65 fruit matched by some beautiful oak and drying “genuine” varietal. $50 very classy oak with tannins. $55 velvety tannins. $50 Shingleback D Block CABERNET & Reserve McLaren BLENDS Vale Cabernet $60-$80 Sauvignon 2018 HHH1/2 92pts 21 TASTED Great varietal complexity 8 AWARDED here – a big rich hit of black forest cake-like “Some beautiful wines characters. $55 here, generally coming from the younger vintages, but we also saw some tired developed wines that did not deserve our recommendations,” commented one judge. “Choose wisely!” 66 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

varietal tasting Peccavi Margaret CABERNET & Grandeur Wellington CABERNET & Yarra Yering Dry River Cabernet BLENDS Cellar Reserve BLENDS Red Wine No.1 Yarra Sauvignon 2018 $80-$100 McLaren Vale $100-$200 Valley Cabernet HHHH1/2 96pts Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Merlot Another oak driven 9 TASTED 2018 HHHHH 98pts 10 TASTED Malbec Petit Verdot style resulting in lots of 6 AWARDED There is a hint of 6 AWARDED 2019 HHH 91pts vanillin-like characters A very good consistent crushed nuts to the oak A very well-made, adding complexity to class. “Strangely there driven nose with an A bit hit and miss here crimson hued, wine with the vibrant varietal fruit. is better value here intense richness of fruit with some great hits powerful ripe fruit and Good tannic grip. $75 than in the previous two on the well-structured but also some not-so- great fresh oak. $120 Woody Nook classes!” noted one palate that is perfectly great misses. “The Gallaghers Choice judge. “The wines are balanced by the oak. $95 older reds were fading Brand & Sons Margaret River fresher, brighter and Leconfield fast with the younger Sanctuary Cabernet Sauvignon more vibrant and deliver Coonawarra wines showing great Coonawarra 2015 HHH1/2 93pts more depth.” ‘The Sydney’ character,” said one Cabernet Sauvignon A six-year-old wine Reserve Coonawarra judge. 2018 HHH 91pts that is holding up Hemera Estate Cabernet Sauvignon A slightly shy nose with well and still showing Limited Release 2016 Paulmara Estates beautiful hints of red good cabernet fruit Marananga Barossa HHHH1/2 96pts APOTIGI Barossa berries and more of freshness. $65 Valley Cabernet Lovely bouquet that is Valley Cabernet those lovely berries on Reillys Dry Land Sauvignon 2018 reminiscent of a rich fruit Sauvignon 2018 the palate. $130 Clare Valley HHHHH 98pts cake and is followed by a HHHHH 98pts Cabernet Sauvignon “A wine that is all lovely fresh and youthful Super oaky style - very CABERNET & 2012 HHH1/2 93pts class!” agreed the palate but still showing a cedar chest - but has a BLENDS A massive, well-aged judges. There is just a degree of complexity. $80 lovely concentration of $200+ and old-fashioned red hint of malt on the nose Leconfield cabernet fruit to carry it. that is brimming over with a palate offering Coonawarra ‘The The palate is stunning 7 TASTED with ripe fruit and sweet a huge mouthful of Sydney’ Reserve – it is both elegant and 7 AWARDED oak. $65 intense fruit and oak Coonawarra complex. $100 Welland Old Hands flavours. $80 Cabernet Sauvignon The judges agreed Barossa Cabernet Truffle Hill Truffle 2017 HHH 90pts Wolf Blass Black this is an outstanding Sauvignon 2019 Hunters Reserve An oak dominated Label Cabernet class. Great character, HHH 91pts Frankland River WA chocolaty cabernet, but Shiraz 2018 depth and intensity Nutmeg characters Cabernet Malbec it also has the fruit to HHHHH 98pts here - which is what dominate the oaky 2018 HHHHH 98pts handle it. $80 Great colour – verging you would expect. “In nose with a sweet fruit “A perfectly complete Swings & on black. “This is the the past Australian palate balanced by oak wine,” enthused one Roundabouts complete package.” wines stood out for freshness. $70 judge. It has a beautiful Wildwood Margaret It is very rich, very their purity of fruit with vibrancy of cassis-like River Cabernet concentrated, and very the French being more cabernet fruit that is Sauvignon 2017 vibrant with classy oak idiosyncratic some seamlessly balanced by HHH 91pts and lovely cassis fruit. calling it ‘personality!’” the lovely quality oak. $80 An elegantly structured $130 commented one judge. wine with powerful oak, “The Lafite is superb sweet fruit and lots of Nightfall Draco showing different styles acid. $85 Coonawarra from different countries Cabernet Sauvignon are becoming closer.” 2018 HHHH 94pts Vanillin oak dominates Wolf Blass Platinum the nose with a hint of Label Cabernet Wintergreen. The palate Sauvignon 2018 is rich with fruit cake-like HHHHH 98pts characters and excellent Youthful Ribena-like tannins. $125 bouquet layered with sweet oak and tarry Patrick of notes. Palate has an Coonawarra Grande intense core of sweet Reserve Coonawarra berry fruit flavours with Cabernet Sauvignon grainy tannins and crisp 2012 HHH1/2 92pts acid. $200 Very attractive complexity of oak, sweet fruit and bottle age. Excellent length and structure. $125 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 67

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BORDEAUX BLENDS Bec Hardy Wines Bec Hardy Wines Pertaringa Tipsy Pertaringa Tipsy Hill McLaren Vale Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 HHHHH 98pts 2016 HHHHH 98pts Big chocolaty lift to the A beautiful wine that nose and a huge and is a complexity of cigar complex concentration box-like oak and sweet of cassis and blueberries cabernet fruit with the on the lively and palate still showing warming, but elegant, excellent freshness. palate. $295 $295 Chateau Mouton Visit our website and keep Rothschild Pauillac up to date with all our latest France Bordeaux wine info, news, competitions, Blend 2017 HHH1/2 93pts tastings and events. An intense cedar chest of oak with varietal fruit Become a subscriber to enter sitting underneath and into our exciting regular nice drying tannins. competitions. $1,100 Follow us and keep up to Chateau Lafite Gralyn Estate Gralyn Estate date with all our latest Rothschild Pauillac Reserve Margaret Reserve Margaret wine info, tastings and France Bordeaux River Cabernet River Cabernet Blend 2017 Sauvignon 2008 Sauvignon 2009 events on facebook, twitter HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts HHH 91pts and instagram. A very concentrated A big, mature, old style A ripe sweet fruit nose and complex wine but chocolate cake of a and rich fruit cake-like Winestate Magazine still a tad closed with a wine. “A real curio.” Still palate. “Still travelling @WinestateEd subdued cigar box of a has a hint of freshness. well!” $500 nose and an elegant and $500 tightly structured palate. $1,700 STAR RATINGS  www.winestate.com.au Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 112. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 68 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

varietal tasting HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ to advertise if they wish, their awarded are then converted into a star rating wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, system for publication in Winestate. A of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria gold means 5 stars or 4½ stars, silver is final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class 4, and bronze is 3 or 3½ stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three expert judges expertise and often a marketing/retail taste the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, and Masters of Wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they will often purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an evaluated where we believe that these experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using are of consumer or trade interest if these shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold have not been entered by the wineries. If we are judging a region, for example, is 18 and above; silver is 17 and above In order to produce the biggest and we will have a winemaker judge from and is an excellent wine; bronze is best wine magazine, Winestate includes that region because that person knows 15.5 and above and represents good advertising; however, this is fiercely the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- independent of any wine tasting editorial a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does not and we do not sell wines we judge. generally someone with broad and gain a medal). A bland but clean wine Wine companies are advised of the mature experience. scores 14. Below this score there are blind tasting results and it is their choice HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 98 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent Gold 96 - 97 Very Good Silver 18 - 18.4 94 - 95 HHHH High Bronze 92 - 93 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good Bronze 17 - 17.9 90 - 91 Good HHH 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate judges using the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. However, in the interests of the trade and our readers, we have also added points scores that reflect a comparative result. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 69

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN NORTH ISLAND (Gisborne, Auckland, Hawke’s Bay & Northland) MUST VISIT MESITA MESITA in Martinborough has become a favourite with local wine industry types in the Wairarapa. Open Wednesdays to Saturdays from 5pm, Mesita is self- described as “a little wine bar and restaurant tucked away in a secluded corner of Martinborough.” Wednesday nights feature cocktails and tacos, with Thursday focused on hearty burgers and fried chicken. Fridays and Saturdays are devoted to small share plates and the wine list is “all Martinborough” with a few carefully curated exceptions. There is also an enticing South American- inspired cocktail list and occasional live music. See www.mesita.net. GUIDING LIGHT SHINES BRIGHT culinary talents and down-to-earth TASTE OF BORDEAUX IN philosophy into the QT fold. NORTHLAND INTERNATIONAL chef Sean Connolly is the guiding light behind the recently opened “His international experience coupled LOOKING for a base from which to explore Esther eatery at QT Auckland on Viaduct with his knowledge and passion for the Northland? Harbour. Esther is the hotel’s signature Auckland’s local market will set Esther apart restaurant, and stars along with Rooftop at from anything else in the city. We’re also Award-winning Lodge Bordeaux is centrally QT, the latest in QT’s stable of striking drink thrilled to pair our strong culinary offering located within walking distance of Whangarei palaces. QT Auckland aims to combine with the talented Roberto Giampaolo as bar CBD, restaurants and conference facilities. It largely locally sourced ingredients with manager at Rooftop at QT.” is two hours from Auckland and just over an design-led interiors and signature service hour from the Bay of Islands. across all its food and beverage outlets. Esther is a European-style bistro open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. With 98 indoor Lodge Bordeaux is set in landscaped Connolly has been named QT Auckland’s seats, the light and airy space will include a surroundings and its facilities include a Creative Director of Food and Beverage 21-seat indoor bar and an al fresco dining barbecue, petanque court and heated and says the QT brand resonates with his option, with 16 outdoor seats to capture the swimming pool. The rooms feature double personal journey as a chef. fresh salty air of the marina. spa baths, king-sized beds, underfloor heating, quality furnishings and linens. Café- “I’ve long had my eye on QT,” he said. Esther’s menu is inspired by Connolly’s style cooked or continental breakfast can be “[They are] pioneers in breaking down the travels from Sicily to Southern France to delivered to suites and all rooms have well stigma of ‘hotel restaurants’. Morocco with daily-caught seafood, with stocked minibars and free unlimited wifi. many items served by trolley service – “QT is a champion for amazing quality think tableside salt-crusted fish, salads Guests are also invited to choose a bottle and luxury while celebrating individuality. and desserts. Connolly has been working from the wine cellar to enjoy in the rooms. See Seeking creative freedom, there was no closely with QT Auckland executive chef www.lodgebordeaux.co.nz better fit for me to take my career to the next James Laird. Rooftop at QT, meanwhile, will level while expressing my own personal feature an extensive cocktail menu which WONDERFUL WAIRARAPA style and joining a renowned stable of will complement a local wine list. culinary talent.” THE Wairarapa – just an hour from Wellington QT Auckland is the 10th QT Hotel and the - is one of New Zealand’s smallest wine- QT Auckland General Manager Doron third in New Zealand, joining QT Wellington producing regions, making less than 3% of Whaite echoes Connolly’s enthusiasm, and QT Queenstown. the country’s wines, but it is still home to over saying: “We’re honoured to bring Sean’s 60 boutique wineries with several acclaimed winemakers and growers. Most wineries in 70 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

travelbriefs the region are family-owned and -operated. transport and infrastructure investor Infratil. The Meyer gouda cheese story began The first grapes were planted in the It features a sawtooth roof and stunning in Bladel, a tiny village in the south of the Netherlands. Fifty years later Meyer Wairarapa in the 1880s by local farmer patchwork façade of exposed steel, glass Cheese is one of New Zealand’s most- William Beetham, whose efforts were and concrete panels. awarded cheese makers. thwarted by prohibitionists who voted the area dry in 1908. For bookings and details see www. The Meyers chose Waikato as their new tfehotels.com/en/hotels/travelodge-hotels/ home, settling in Cambridge on a 5-acre Years later - in the 1970s - a handful of auckland-wynyard-quarter/. block, quickly setting up their cheese wine enthusiasts and entrepreneurs bought production. land and planted vines in Martinborough, CULINARY CASUAL CHIC noticing the climatic and soil similarities to After five years, the Meyers decided to Burgundy, France. FOR chardonnay lovers making the trek to purchase their very own farm to control milk Gisborne, The Works is a recommended supply, a decision paramount to the quality The Wairarapa comprises three distinct dining destination. Set in the heart of of their cheese production today. sub-regions, centred around Gladstone with Gisborne’s inner harbour, The Works is a its river terraces; Masterton to the north and casual restaurant offering a range of culinary Meyer Gouda Cheese is one of the most the famous wine village of Martinborough. offerings in a fun atmosphere, where head significantly awarded companies in New chef Malvin Singh loves to innovate. Zealand, picking up a sting of awards for Leading producers to look out for include its range, which also includes maasdam. Ata Rangi, Schubert, Craggy Range, Urlar The restaurant is housed in the only and Dry River. remaining portion of the original Kaiti Freezing A CHEESY DETOUR Works. The brick building was once a LIVE LIKE A ROCK STAR sausage making factory and later a dry store, BOB AND ANNA Rosevear have been while upstairs was the carpenters’ workshop. operating their Mahoe Cheese dairy in the WHEN a new hotel is promoted as offering a Northland since 1986 and have become a “rock star lifestyle without the hefty price tag” The freezing works used to be famed for popular stop off point for gourmets visiting then expectations are going to be high. When having the largest brick facade in the southern the Bay of Islands. All the milk for Mahoe’s that new hotel is centre stage in Auckland’s hemisphere but most of the building was cheeses and yoghurts comes from the up-and-coming, industrial-chic waterfront demolished in 1996. family’s own herd of 60 cows. precinct then it had better deliver. Today, The Works is open seven days and “Our cows graze on the farmland TFE Hotels’ opened Travelodge Hotel the dinner menu showcases dishes like surrounding the cheesery, therefore our Auckland Wynyard Quarter at the end of barley and brown rice risotto with marinated milk does not have to be transported – after October, promising a simple customer service butter prawns, mussels, saffron and tobiko each milking it goes directly into the cheese philosophy: delivering “more of what you cream; and pork belly with crackling, carrot vats,” they say. want, minus the unnecessary extras”. puree, pumpkin seed pesto, baked pear and black rice. “The fresh milk is pasteurised and turned The new hotel is footsteps from the into cheese straight away.” city’s buzzing ASB Waterfront Theatre; A largely Gisborne-focussed wine list superyachts; Auckland’s working fish highlights names like Millton, Matawhero and Drop into the small farm shop, or find market; Silo Park and North Wharf’s funky 747 Estate. See www.theworksgisborne.co.nz/ their products at the Whangãrei, Paihia and cafes, breweries and bars. Kerikeri Farmers’ Markets. Dutch styles IS GOUDA, IS GOOD Gouda and Edam – both matured on site for Located on the corner of Halsey and over 12 months - are among the favourites Packenham streets, the seven-storey, 154- LOVERS of Dutch cheeses all know about here. www.mahoecheese.co.nz. room hotel is the first of six new buildings a family enterprise outside Hamilton in under development as part of a mixed-use the Waikato where they make gouda like Top: Martinborough Village. commercial/residential block owned by that in Holland. Above: Mahoe Cheese. Opposite page top left: Dishes from Esther restaurant. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 71

47 TASTED 47 RECOMMENDED NORTH ISLAND Wairarapa, Gisborne, Auckland, Hawke’s Bay & Nor thland Hawke’s Bay is New Zealand’s second-largest wine-growing Coopers Creek region, with 12% of the country’s total area of bearing vines. Swamp Reserve Chardonnay and claret-style reds (cabernet sauvignon and merlot- Hawke’s Bay based) have been the traditional successes, joined more recently Chardonnay 2019 by syrah, but the tasting also unearthed highly impressive examples HHHH1/2 97pts of barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc, viognier, gewürztraminer and Still very youthful, this pinot gris. wine was hand-picked in the Havelock North hills Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available and barrel-fermented in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) and (US). (French, 33% new). Bright, light yellow/ CHARDONNAY Church Road 1 Church Road Trinity Hill Gimblett green, it has very good Single Vineyard Tuki McDonald Series Gravels Hawke’s concentration of fresh, 9 TASTED Tuki Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay Bay Chardonnay peachy, citrusy flavours, 9 RECOMMENDED 2018 HHHHH 98pts Chardonnay 2019 HHHHH 98pts slightly smoky and This pale gold, flavour- 2019 HHHHH 98pts A top vintage, this toasty notes adding An outstanding class, packed wine was hand- Unfolding well, this youthful, very finely complexity, and a tightly reflecting Hawke’s picked in the Tuki Tuki finely balanced wine balanced wine was structured finish. Best Bay’s long-established Valley and fermented and was hand-picked, mostly fermented and matured drinking 2023+. $40 (UK) ability to produce matured for 11 months in the Tuki Tuki Valley, and for a year in French oak Church Road fragrant, full-bodied, in French oak casks fermented and matured puncheons. Well worth Hawke’s Bay ripely flavoured wines, (21% new). A powerful, for 11 months in French cellaring, it is full-bodied, Chardonnay which retain elegance complex style, it has oak barrels (19% new). with concentrated, ripe 2020 HHHH 95pts and have the ability to highly concentrated, Currently delicious, it is stone-fruit flavours, Offering great value, mature gracefully for peachy flavours, enriched mouthfilling and sweet- showing impressive this ‘unashamedly just a several years. Reflecting with toasty oak, fresh fruited, with strong, complexity and length, little bit old school’ wine the benefits of a acidity and a smoky ripe, peachy flavours, and a fragrant, slightly has a fragrant, complex warm summer and dry bouquet. Best drinking complex, savoury and smoky bouquet. Best bouquet. Mouthfilling, autumn, 2019 is rightly 2023+. $70 harmonious. Top value. drinking 2023+. $40 (UK) it has strong, peachy, viewed as a top vintage. Church Road Grand $25 Askerne Reserve gently toasty flavours, Reserve Hawke’s Hawke’s Bay fresh acidity, and good Askerne The Archer Bay Chardonnay Chardonnay 2019 harmony and immediacy. Hawke’s Bay 2019 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 97pts $19 Chardonnay This powerful, youthful Already delicious, this Coopers Creek 2019 HHHHH 98pts wine should be long- powerful, generous Select Vineyards Likely to be long- lived. Grown mostly wine was fermented Limeworks Hawke’s lived, this classy wine in the Tuki Tuki Valley and matured in French Bay Chardonnay was hand-picked and fermented with oak casks (44% new). 2019 HHHH 95pts and fermented and indigenous yeasts in Bright, light lemon/ From a vineyard near matured in French French oak barrels (30% green, it is full-bodied Havelock North, this oak barrels (28% new), it has a fragrant, and creamy-textured, is a high-flavoured new). Light lemon/ distinctly smoky with ripe stone-fruit style, fermented and green, with a fragrant, bouquet. Full-bodied, flavours, seasoned with matured for 11 months complex bouquet, it with rich, ripe stone-fruit toasty oak, balanced in American oak casks is mouthfilling, with flavours, seasoned acidity and a harmonious (20% new). It has deep, youthful, peachy, with toasty oak, and finish. Drink now or a fragrant, buttery citrusy flavours, oak fresh acidity, it is an cellar. $35 bouquet, leading into richness, a slightly impressively complex, a mouthfilling, sweet- creamy texture and a tightly structured wine, fruited wine with ripe powerful finish. Best worth cellaring to stone-fruit and toasty drinking 2023+. $50 2023+. $40 oak flavours, fresh, crisp and youthful. $25 (A) 72 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

regional tasting PINOT GRIS Church Road SAUVIGNON Askerne Hawke’s Church Road McDonald Series BLANC Bay Sauvignon McDonald Series 4 TASTED Hawke’s Bay Blanc 2020 Hawke’s Bay 4 RECOMMENDED Pinot Gris 2019 4 TASTED HHHH 95pts Viognier HHHHH 98pts 4 RECOMMENDED Full of youthful vigour, 2018 A small class of This impressively rich, this ripely scented, HHHH1/2 96pts typically weighty, ripely Alsace-style pinot gris Although overshadowed full-bodied wine has Probably at or nearing flavoured, distinctly was estate-grown at by the reputation of the passionfruit and lime its peak, this pale gold Alsace-style wines, Matapiro, harvested late region’s chardonnays, flavours, threaded with wine was estate- although cool, elevated, with some berry shrivel, sauvignon blanc is the fresh acidity, and a crisp, grown in the Redstone inland districts such as and fermented and lees- most widely planted dry, lingering finish. Best Vineyard, in the Bridge Matapiro have the ability aged in French oak cuves. grape variety in Hawke’s drinking 2022. $22 (UK) Pa Triangle, and matured to produce lighter, crisp, Light gold, it is sturdy, Bay. The top wines are for 10 months in French dry wines that veer with concentrated peach, mouthfilling, with ripe Church Road oak barrels (25% new). more towards the pinot apricot and spice flavours, tropical fruit flavours, Hawke’s Bay Fleshy and full-bodied, grigio style. gentle sweetness, a fresh but not high Sauvignon Blanc it has concentrated, distinct hint of honey and acidity, and complexity 2020 HHHH 94pts ripe, peachy, slightly a lasting finish. Drink now from fermentation and Drinking well now, this spicy flavours, gently or cellar. $25 maturation in oak barrels. wine was estate-grown seasoned with oak, in the relatively cool, excellent complexity, Church Road Church Road elevated Matapiro and slightly honeyed Hawke’s Bay Grand Reserve district. Bright, light notes emerging. $25 Pinot Gris 2020 Hawke’s Bay lemon/green, it is ripely Coopers Creek HHHH1/2 97pts Barrel Fermented scented, mouthfilling Select Vineyards If you enjoy the sturdy, Sauvignon Blanc and vibrant, with tropical Chalk Ridge fleshy, Alsace style 2019 HHHHH 98pts fruit flavours, crisp, dry Hawke’s Bay of pinot gris, try this Richly fragrant, weighty and generous. $19 Viognier 2020 bargain-priced wine. and sweet-fruited, this HHHH1/2 96pts Estate-grown at distinguished wine was VIOGNIER Hand-picked at Matapiro and harvested estate-grown, principally Havelock North, this late, with some berry in the Redstone 4 TASTED youthful, vigorous shrivel, it is powerful Vineyard, in the Bridge 4 RECOMMENDED wine was handled and ripely scented, with Pa Triangle, hand-picked without oak. Bright, generous stone-fruit and and fermented with Over half of New light yellow/green, spice flavours, and a indigenous yeasts in Zealand’s viognier is it is mouthfilling and very harmonious, slightly French oak barrels planted in Hawke’s Bay, fleshy, with very good sweet, smooth finish. (20% new). Still very where the classic Rhone intensity of vibrant, ripe $19 youthful, it has notable Valley variety yields stone-fruit flavours, depth of ripe, tropical weighty, well-rounded finely balanced acidity Askerne Hawke’s Church Road fruit flavours, showing wines, often oak-aged, and a lasting finish. Bay Pinot Gris Gwen Hawke’s Bay excellent complexity, with ripe, stone-fruit Best drinking mid- 2020 HHHHH 98pts Pinot Gris 2019 balanced acidity and a flavours and a slightly 2022+. $25 Already drinking well, HHHH 95pts long finish. $40 oily richness. Saint Clair Origin this is a powerful, full- Invitingly scented, this Hawke’s Bay bodied young wine, lively, medium-bodied Church Road Askerne Hawke’s Viognier attractively scented. wine was estate-grown McDonald Series Bay Viognier 2019 Fleshy, with distinct at Matapiro and hand- Barrel Fermented 2020 HHHH1/2 96pts overtones of Alsace, it picked relatively early, in Hawke’s Bay HHHH1/2 97pts Drinking well now, has concentrated, ripe, search of a ‘dry, mineral Sauvignon Blanc Offering good value, this Gimblett Gravels stone-fruit and spice style’. Maturing well, it 2019 this barrel-fermented wine was fermented flavours, and a dryish, has fresh acidity, with HHHH1/2 97pts wine is powerful, with in seasoned French lasting finish. $23 (UK) strong, peachy, gently Still unfolding, this rich, ripe, stone-fruit oak barriques. Bright, spicy flavours. $25 hand-picked wine was flavours, oak-derived light yellow/green, partly fermented with complexity, gentle it is mouthfilling and JUDGED BY indigenous yeasts in acidity and a slightly smooth, with generous, seasoned oak barrels. oily texture. Already ripe, stone-fruit and Michael Cooper Bright, light yellow/ drinking well, it should spice flavours, a hint Winestate’s New Zealand editor green, it is mouthfilling break into full stride of apricot, slightly is author of the internationally and vibrantly fruity, mid-2022+. $25 (UK) toasty notes adding acclaimed Wine Atlas of New with ripe, tropical fruit complexity and a dry, Zealand and the annual New flavours, showing very very harmonious finish. Zealand Wines: Michael Cooper’s good intensity, a subtle Fine value. $20 (UK) Buyer’s Guide. In the 2004 New seasoning of oak, and Year Honours, Michael was fresh, balanced acidity. appointed an Officer of the Best drinking mid- New Zealand Order of Merit for 2022+. $25 services to wine writing. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 73

NORTH ISLAND OTHER Church Road 1 Church Road Church Road Grand Trinity Hill Gimblett WHITES Single Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Merlot Reserve Hawke’s Gravels Hawke’s Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon Bay Syrah Bay Syrah 1 TASTED Merlot 2016 2018 HHHH 95pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts 2019 HHHHH 98pts 1 RECOMMENDED HHHHH 98pts Still very youthful, this This is a powerful, This classy young red Dark and still purple- blend of merlot (92%) very age-worthy red, is well worth cellaring. Askerne Hawke’s flushed, this fragrant, and cabernet sauvignon dark and rich. Estate- Oak-aged for a year, Bay Gewürztraminer rich red was matured for (8%) was grown grown in the Bridge Pa it is deeply coloured, 2020 18 months in French oak mostly in the Bridge Pa Triangle (mostly) and with a fragrant, HHHH1/2 96pts barriques (54% new). Triangle and matured the Gimblett Gravels, spicy, clearly varietal Attractively perfumed Still very youthful, it has for a year in Hungarian it was matured for 20 bouquet. Mouthfilling and weighty, this fleshy, concentrated, plummy, and French oak (35% months in French and and well-structured, it strongly varietal wine is spicy flavours, a hint of new). Full-coloured, it is Hungarian oak barrels is concentrated, with youthful and vibrantly liquorice, fresh acidity, mouthfilling and sweet- (33% new). Fragrant and deep, ripe, plummy, fruity, with rich, peachy, finely integrated oak and fruited, with generous, fresh, it has deep, ripe spicy flavours, fresh well-spiced flavours and a well-rounded, lasting ripe blackcurrant and blackcurrant, plum and acidity, oak complexity an off-dry, lengthy finish. finish. Best drinking spice flavours, fresh spice flavours, complex and a finely textured $25 (UK) 2024+. $90 acidity and good and savoury, and good finish. $40 (UK) Church Road complexity. $19 tannin backbone. Best Church Road 1 ROSÉ McDonald Series drinking 2024+. $45 Single Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Merlot Saint Clair Origin Church Road Syrah 2018 2 TASTED 2017 HHHHH 98pts Hawke’s Bay Merlot McDonald Series HHHH1/2 96pts 2 RECOMMENDED Distinctly reminiscent 2020 HHHH 94pts Hawke’s Bay Syrah Well worth cellaring, of red Bordeaux, this Aiming for a ‘fruit-driven’ 2019 HHHHH 98pts this perfumed, vigorous, Church Road Gwen fleshy, very harmonious style, this Gimblett Gravels A top buy, this dark, smooth-flowing red Hawke’s Bay Rosé red is dark and full- red was matured in tanks floral red was grown in was estate-grown in 2020 HHHH 94pts bodied, with vibrant and seasoned French oak the Gimblett Gravels the Bridge Pa Triangle Pale pink, this merlot- blackcurrant, plum barrels. Deeply coloured, (principally) and the and matured in French based rosé is lively and spice flavours, it is mouthfilling and Bridge Pa Triangle, oak casks (36% new). and dry, with a touch impressively complex fruit-packed, with strong, blended with malbec Full-coloured, it has good of tannin and vigorous and savoury, and supple, plummy, spicy flavours, a (14%), and matured for density of plum and peachy, strawberryish fine-grained tannins. hint of toasty oak, fresh 18 months in French spice flavours, a hint of and spicy flavours, Drink now or cellar. $28 acidity and supple tannins. and Hungarian oak liquorice, fresh acidity showing good intensity. Askerne Hawke’s Full of youthful vigour, it’s barrels (22% new). Still and ripe, supple tannins. $25 Bay Merlot Malbec worth cellaring to 2023+. purple-flushed, with a Best drinking 2024+. $90 Cabernet 2019 $25 (UK) fragrant, spicy bouquet, Church Road HHHH1/2 97pts it is vigorous and supple, Hawke’s Bay Rosé Showing plenty of SYRAH with strong plum, 2020 HHHH 94pts personality, this merlot- spice and black pepper Merlot-based, this based blend (67%) was 8 TASTED flavours, oak complexity softly mouthfilling rosé matured in oak barrels 8 RECOMMENDED and a refined, very has pink/slight orange (20% new). Full-coloured, harmonious finish. $28 colour. Made in a very it is mouthfilling and Syrah has yielded easy-drinking style, it savoury, with very good terrific reds in Hawke’s has generous peach, concentration of plummy, Bay in the favourably strawberry and spice spicy flavours, showing warm, dry 2019 vintage, flavours, with an off-dry good complexity, and with dense, vibrant, finish. $19 finely balanced tannins. blackcurrant and spice Best drinking 2023+. flavours, and the obvious MERLOT & $25 (UK) potential to mature well BLENDS Saint Clair Pioneer over the long haul. Block 17 Plateau 6 TASTED Gimblett Gravels Askerne The Tere 6 RECOMMENDED Merlot 2019 Hawke’s Bay Syrah HHHH1/2 97pts 2019 HHHHH 98pts Hawke’s Bay has nearly Deeply coloured, with Instantly appealing, this 90% of New Zealand’s a fragrant, slightly very graceful, youthful bearing merlot vines, earthy bouquet, this red was estate-grown and it’s easy to see why. is a concentrated red. and matured for 10 In warm, dry growing Full-bodied, it has months in French oak seasons like 2019, this strong, youthful, plum barrels (30% new). classic variety yields and spice flavours, Deeply coloured, it is mouthfilling, savoury, seasoned with toasty fleshy, savoury and complex reds that are oak, fresh acidity and supple, with excellent highly Bordeaux-like. ripe, supple tannins. flavour depth, vigour and Showing obvious harmony. Best drinking potential, it’s well 2023+. $50 worth cellaring to 2023+. $40 (UK) 74 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

regional tasting Coopers Creek Church Road Grand Trinity Hill Church Road Church Road Select Vineyards Reserve Hawke’s Prison Block Single McDonald Series McDonald Series Chalk Ridge Bay Cabernet Vineyard Gimblett Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Syrah Sauvignon Merlot Gravels Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Marzemino 2019 HHHH 95pts 2018 HHHHH 98pts Sauvignon 2019 2018 2018 HHHH 95pts Ruby hued, this single- This fragrant, savoury, HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 96pts From a variety cultivated vineyard red includes a smooth-flowing red Set to flourish over Estate-grown in the in northern Italy, this splash of viognier (2%). is a blend of cabernet the long haul, this Redstone Vineyard, in attractive, easy-drinking Freshly aromatic, it is sauvignon (68%), estate- notably dense red is the Bridge Pa Triangle, red was estate-grown in strongly varietal, with grown in the Redstone powerful, but certainly this good value red the Redstone Vineyard, plummy, spicy, slightly Vineyard, in the Bridge not ‘over the top’. Boldly includes malbec (10%) in the Bridge Pa Triangle, nutty flavours, supple Pa Triangle, with merlot coloured, it is sturdy, and merlot (3%). Deep and matured for over tannins, and good (24%) and malbec (8%), with beautifully ripe and youthful in colour, a year in French oak complexity, vigour and grown in the Gimblett blackcurrant, plum and it is sturdy and supple, casks (21% new). Deep harmony. Best drinking Gravels. French oak-aged spice flavours, firm with rich blackcurrant, and youthful in colour, mid-2022+. $28 for 20 months, it is dark tannins beneath, and plum and spice flavours, it is mouthfilling, with and purple-flushed, with excellent harmony and hints of herbs and fresh, lively plum and Saint Clair James generous, ripe, plummy, fragrance. $120 (UK) liquorice, and a fragrant, spice flavours, hints Sinclair Gimblett spicy flavours, a hint of Church Road 1 nutty bouquet. Best of liquorice and nuts, Gravels Hawke’s dark chocolate, finely Single Vineyard drinking 2023+. $28 savoury notes adding Bay Syrah balanced tannins and Redstone Cabernet Saint Clair James complexity and ripe, 2019 HHHH 95pts excellent complexity. A Sauvignon Sinclair Gimblett supple tannins. $28 Dark and purple-flushed, classic cellaring style. $45 2018 HHHHH 98pts Gravels Cabernet Saint Clair James this youthful, single- Trinity Hill This elegant, youthful Merlot 2019 Sinclair Hawke’s vineyard red was French Gimblett Gravels red was estate-grown HHHH 94pts Bay Malbec oak-matured for six The Gimblett in the Bridge Pa Triangle Still very youthful, this 2020 HHH1/2 93pts months. Vibrantly fruity, 2019 HHHHH 98pts and matured for 18 deeply coloured blend This single-vineyard, with a fresh, spicy, slightly This classy, youthful, months in French oak of cabernet sauvignon Gimblett Gravels red earthy bouquet, it has claret-style Hawke’s barriques (34% new). (68%) and merlot (32%) was matured for 10 clearly varietal, plummy, Bay red is a blend of Deeply coloured, it was matured in tanks months in French oak spicy, peppery flavours, cabernet sauvignon and is mouthfilling, with and French oak barrels. (new and seasoned). generous and supple. cabernet franc, oak- blackcurrant, plum and Full-bodied, with a Deeply coloured, it Enjoyable young, it’s also matured for a year. Dark spice flavours, showing slightly earthy bouquet, is vibrantly fruity and worth cellaring. $28 and purple-flushed, it is excellent density, nutty, it has strong, vibrant medium-bodied, with a powerful, full-bodied savoury notes adding blackcurrant, plum and fresh acidity and strong, Church Road wine, with vibrant, well- complexity, and ripe, spice flavours, showing youthful, plummy, spicy Hawke’s Bay Syrah ripened blackcurrant, supple tannins. Best considerable complexity, flavours. Best drinking 2019 HHH1/2 93pts plum and spice drinking 2023+. $90 fresh acidity and obvious 2023+. $28 This youthful, medium- flavours, finely balanced potential; open 2023+. $28 bodied red is deeply tannins, and impressive coloured, with a fresh, concentration and OTHER REDS spicy bouquet. It has complexity. Best strong plum, spice and drinking 2024+. $40 (UK) 3 TASTED black pepper flavours, woven with fresh acidity, 3 RECOMMENDED and an almost pinot noir- ish charm. $21 Church Road 1 Single Vineyard CABERNET Gimblett Gravels SAUVIGNON & Hawke’s Bay Malbec BLENDS 2017 HHHHH 98pts Set for a long life, this 6 TASTED classy red is more 6 RECOMMENDED elegant and less rustic than many malbecs Cabernet sauvignon grown in New Zealand. only ripens consistently Matured in French on the hottest sites in (mostly) and Hungarian Hawke’s Bay, but the oak barrels (38% new), warm 2018 and 2019 it is a powerful wine, vintages have both dark and full-bodied, with yielded outstanding dense, vibrant, plummy, reds – sturdy and rich, spicy flavours, woven with well-ripened, with fresh acidity, and blackcurrant-like good tannin backbone. flavours, complex, finely Best drinking 2023+. $90 structured and obviously suited to long-term cellaring. May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 75

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN RIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSW NEW SEBEL OPENS ON THE from across Victoria and interstate,” said launched by Tony and Susie Sharley in 2016, MURRAY The Sebel Yarrawonga general manager the Murray River Safari is a three-day, two- Rebecca Russell. night guided wildlife experience based out THE Murray River region has welcomed of Renmark in South Australia. new luxury 4.5-star hotel and apartment Lake Mulwala is a popular destination for accommodation with The Sebel Yarrawonga water skiing in the summer months and the It combines the comforts of houseboat at Silverwoods Golf and Lifestyle Resort. surrounding region offers an abundance of accommodation with immersive nature natural produce and a variety of wineries activities including canoeing, bushwalking, Three hours’ drive from Melbourne, in nearby Rutherglen. The drive from creek cruising, nature drives and bird The Sebel Yarrawonga is a good base Melbourne encompasses the unique watching. Situated along one of the most for exploring. It has 63 studio rooms and silo art on the North East Art Trail. The picturesque sections of Australia’s longest spacious one-, two- and three-bedroom Sebel is the final stage of the Silverwoods river, the Riverland Ramsar Wetland area apartments overlooking picturesque Lake development. includes an 80km section of the Murray River Mulwala on the Murray River. and more than 200km of creeks. There is Accommodation rates start from $199 the chance to spot wild koalas, brush-tailed It has three food and beverage venues: per night and there are several packages possums, red kangaroos, lace monitors and Stock & Barrel bar and casual dining; available. Book directly with The Sebel 180 bird species including emus, wedge- Sunset Pool Bar and Elizabeth’s fine dining Yarrawonga at www.thesebelyarrawonga. tailed eagles and sharp-tailed sandpipers. restaurant. com.au/offers or phone (03) 5745 9100. The Murray River Safari accommodates up to Situated an hour from Albury town centre, BUSH EXPERIENCE THAT’S 10 people to showcase “in-depth interpretation The Sebel Yarrawonga is adjacent to Black NOT ROUGHING IT and personalised conversations”. Bull 18-hole Championship Golf Course, regarded as the number one golf course A GUIDED multi-activity wildlife adventure Guides unveil the river’s history, geology, on the Murray and ranked 68 in the top exploring the iconic Murray River and culture, people, environmental challenges 100 courses in Australia. It was the last Riverland Ramsar Wetlands is the latest and regenerative opportunities. A menu by golf course designed and completed by addition to the Australian Wildlife Journeys chef Andrew Fielke is provided throughout the the late Peter Thomson, one of Australia’s collection. But do not expect to be roughing trip, with a focus on native and local produce, most revered golfing legends. it - this is a bush experience with plenty of matched with premium local wines. luxury thrown in. “Everyone is looking for a well-earned Operating between March and November, change of scenery and some wide open Part of the Murray River Trails portfolio the Murray River Safari provides a perfect space after a challenging year and we complement to the group’s award-winning are looking forward to welcoming guests Murray River Walk that runs between May to 76 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

travelbriefs ourselves on offering a personalised service, almost like you’re staying at a B&B. Pleasingly, our passion is reflected in the guest reviews we regularly receive across all booking platforms.” See www.bestwestern.com.au. September, with the opportunity for guests to BEST OF THE BEST FOR MCWILLIAMS AND MOUNT combine the two experiences. WAGGA PLEASANT CHANGE HANDS “We are delighted to join a national collective AMONG the most stylish places to stay in RIVERINA-BASED winemakers Calabria that not only celebrates the importance of Wagga Wagga is Best Western Plus Bolton on Family Wines have acquired a piece of sharing our diverse natural landscapes, the Park. The hotel is located close to the city Australian wine history with the purchase climatic zones, and amazing fauna across centre, just a short walk from restaurants, bars of McWilliam’s Wines, also based in the Australia, but provides opportunities for and shopping, Robertson Oval, Oasis Aquatic region. The Griffith-based Calabria family guests to contribute to a better future for Centre and Bolton Park Sports Precinct. take ownership of the McWilliam’s brands, wildlife across our most critical ecosystems” intellectual property, and stock holdings as said Tony Sharley, managing director of According to the Managing Director of BWH well as the Hanwood vineyard, winery and Murray River Trails. Hotel Group for Australasia Graham Perry, it cellar door. is a perfect time for the newest addition to be A three-day/two-night Murray River Safari joining the network. Mount Pleasant in the Hunter Valley was sold includes private cruising, guided woodlands to developers Medich Family. and cliff walks, private guided canoeing trip, “We’re delighted to have Best Western Plus a driving safari through dunes, lodge-style Bolton on the Park join the BWH Hotel Group,” “It is a great honour for our family to accommodation for two nights on a modern says BWH general manager Graham Perry. become the proud custodians of Australian houseboat and all meals and beverages winemaking history with the purchase of including wines and beer, juice and coffee. “The quality of the hotel is aligned to the McWilliam’s Wines,” said third-generation Prices from $1,750 per person (twin share). calibre of Best Western Plus properties, with general manager Michael Calabria. “Despite See murrayrivertrails.com.au a strong focus on standards and providing recent challenges, we know the McWilliam’s exceptional customer service. name carries a long and prestigious reputation A FLASHY PLACE TO STAY as one of Australia’s oldest wine producers.” “We’ve been successfully operating as an WHEN you’ve finished travelling along the independent over the past five years since McWilliam’s was established in 1877 and road to Gundagai in the Riverina region, opening, however we’ve realised that to has become one of Australia’s leading there is a new option for an overnight stay: push us onto a bigger platform and our next family-owned wineries. With six consecutive Flash Jacks. level of success, we needed to partner with generations of winemakers and over 140 a recognisable brand that would help us years of experience, McWilliam’s has This nine-room boutique hotel is set in an look beyond our local market,” says owner established a range of premium vineyard 1888 Catholic convent in Gundagai and has Murray Gabriel. holdings across the Riverina and New South been created by the team that crafted the Wales. It had been in administration. huts and cottages of nearby Kimo Estate. “We’re exceptionally proud of the hotel, It features light and bright premium king- with some of the newest and largest rooms in “Local members of the McWilliam family size rooms with corner windows and an Wagga. The quality of the Best Western Plus are pleased that the Hanwood winery and apartment-sized family room that sleeps four. brand matches the quality we’ve instilled in the McWilliam’s Wines business will continue our business and that was what drove us to under the control of the Calabria family and The hotel sits above the main street of partner with them.” that their passion for the local region, brands Gundagai with commanding views of the and history of the company will continue beautiful hills surrounding the pretty little town. The property features 15 superior rooms, 10 under their family ownership,” said fifth- premium rooms with park views, two suites generation Greg McWilliams. The textures and fabrics used in the hotel’s suitable for families and one two-bedroom décor pay homage to the materials that made self-contained apartment. There is also an We have had a close and enduring Australians pioneers in the wool, steel and on-premise restaurant. relationship over many years and look timber industries. forward to working with the Calabria family “We offer flexible bedding options, in the future.” The name comes from Flash Jack of including split kings and double-bed sofas, Gundagai, a poem written by Banjo Patterson, to cater well to groups, whether in town for For further information about Calabria Family who spent time in the town. a wedding, sporting event or corporate Wines visit www.calabriawines.com.au. purpose,” says Gabriel. There are plans for an on-site restaurant Top left: Scenic Murray River. down the track. See www.flashjacks.com.au “At Bolton on the Park, we’re extremely Opposite page top left: Sebel Yarrawonga Sunset focused on the guest experience. We pride pool bar. Opposite page bottom right: Murray River cruising in small groups maximum of 10 guests. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 77

57 TASTED 44 AWARDED RIVER REGIONS These wines offer some amazing opportunities for great value Grower’s Gate wines for everyday drinking, whether at home or your on- South Australia premise outlet. Exciting alternative varieties also do exceptionally Sauvignon Blanc well in these high volume warm climates as do sweet whites and 2020 HHH 91pts fortifieds where you will have to pay a little extra for some truly A crisp and easing superb wines! drinking with nice lift of cut grass and green peas varietal characters. $14.95 SPARKLING OTHER Berton Vineyards CHARDONNAY Trentham Estate WHITES Metal Label Riverina Estate Grown 3 TASTED Fiano 2020 4 TASTED Murray Darling 2 AWARDED 6 TASTED HHH 91pts 4 AWARDED Chardonnay 4 AWARDED A delicate complexity of 2020 HHHH 94pts A couple of nicely citrus, floral and peach- A solid group of wines An aromatic complexity managed creamy, A consistent group of like characters. Good with the winemakers of nougat and fig with sparkling, fruit driven wines showing the acid line. $16 showing a good generous layers of fruit wines. value and suitability of understanding of fruit and oak on the palate. other varieties in these Ricca Terra Bronco variety at a great price. Crisp finish. $18 Grower’s Gate warmer climes. Buster Riverland “These are attractive, Dominic Wines South Australia Brut White Blend consumer friendly and Boundary Cuvee NV Zilzie Wines Liv 2020 HHH 91pts good food wines,” Station Riverland HHHH 94pts Lighter Australia Floral nose with nougat noted one judge. Chardonnay A fine bead, pleasant Pinot Grigio 2020 notes and layers of 2020 HHH1/2 92pts citrus aromas and a HHH1/2 92pts flavour on a nicely Glamper SA Aromas of peach and clean and refreshing Creamy citrusy textured palate. $22.50 Chardonnay 2020 pineapple with Muscat- palate with some fragrances and a full- HHHH 94pts like notes and a creamy sweetness and good bodied citrus palate with SAUVIGNON A rich style with a bold palate with good acid acidity. $14.95 a velvety finish. Good BLANC & oak driven nose and balance. $6.99 food wine. $15 BLENDS persistent fruit flavours Buller Wines RLB with good supporting Swan Hill Sparkling Grower’s Gate 4 TASTED acid and oak. $12 Rosé 2020 South Australia 1 AWARDED HHH 90pts Pinot Grigio Fragrances of 2020 HHH 90pts Disappointing! One strawberries and Slight musky notes on good example, but the cream with plenty of the nose and a pleasant others lacked depth of strawberry-like flavours. balance of fruit and acid flavour. $17 on the palate. $14.95 JUDGES Eric Semmler Andrew La Nauze Jade Woods Proprietor of 919 Wine Winemaker at Yalumba Experienced winemaker Company. Formerly Winery. Previously and second in charge winemaker for the Hardy winemaker at Norfolk at Zilzie Wines. 23 Wine Company. Previously Rise, Robe and St years in the wine with Brown Brothers Hallett, Barossa Valley. industry including senior and Auldstone Cellars. Has vintaged in Alsace winemaker for AVL. Has spent eight years as and completed the Previously with Deakin fortified winemaker for AWRI (Australian Wine Estate, Penfolds and Hardys. Associate judge at Research Institute) wine Seppeltsfield. Rutherglen, McLaren Vale assessment course. and Riverland shows. 78 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

regional tasting Grower’s Gate Vinos for Chinos 919 Reserve CABERNET & South Australia South Australia Riverland BLENDS Chardonnay Grenache 2020 Tempranillo 2018 2020 HHH 90pts HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts 8 TASTED Subtle oak/citrus nose A well-made varietal. Sweet Christmas 6 AWARDED with very moreish, Attractive confectionery cake-like aromas with mouth filling, flavours nose with floral nuances some earthy/savoury A solid group of well- and nice acid line. and the intense fruit elements and rich dark made wines. “These are $14.95 pastille-like palate has fruit flavours with lots of really good examples of structural complexity acid. $42 inland cabernets where ROSÉ with lovely tannin tannins are in check and softness. $19 Trentham Estate varietal characters come 2 TASTED Estate Grown out,” said one judge. 2 AWARDED Ricca Terra Murray Darling Riverland Pinot Noir 2019 Zilzie Wines A couple of good Montepulciano 2020 HHH1/2 92pts Butterfly Kiss examples with an HHHHH 98pts Spicy cherry nose with Victoria Cabernet attractive “European” Brooding choc/berry forest floor notes and Sauvignon 2020 style that is dry and bouquet with some creamy palate with good HHHH 94pts savoury rather than meaty notes. The dense oak and soft tannins. Has balance, richness sweet. rich palate has mouth- $18 and density, good filling fruitiness layered varietal characters Zilzie Wines Liv with oak and attractive Trentham Estate Berton of blackcurrants Lighter Australia tannins. A baby! $27 Estate Grown Vineyards VBBAEULSYUTSE and violets and fine Rosé 2020 919 Reserve Murray Darling Metal Label tannins. Drinking well HHH 91pts Riverland Touriga Merlot 2019 Riverina Durif now. $20 Aromas of spice, Nacional 2018 HHHH1/2 96pts 2020 HHH 90pts lavender and HHHHH 98pts A stylish and classy Inky wine with big Buller Wines RLB strawberries; good Vibrant lifted licorice wine with a spicy plum chocolaty/dark plum Swan Hill Cabernet cherry-like flavours. and eucalypt characters and berry nose showing aromas and flavours and Sauvignon 2019 $15 to the dark cherry nose a perfumed lift and a mouth-coating tannins. HHH1/2 92pts and also on the brooding lovely palate that has $14 Nice inky depth to Zilzie Wines sweet fruit palate that richness, complexity and this big rich extracted Butterfly Kiss has a voluptuous tannin length. $18 Ricca Terra Terra Do style showing very fine Victoria Rosé structure. $45 Andrew Peace Full Rio Red Field Blend chamois-like tannins. 2020 HHH 90pts Moon Swan Hill Riverland Red Blend $17 Rose petal and peach Victoria Durif 2020 2020 HHH 91pts nose with a fuller richer HHHH 94pts Rich spicy resinous fruit Andrew Peace red berry driven palate. A big fresh fruit bomb fragrances and very Wines Masterpeace $20 with lashings of dark fruity palate with fine Victoria Cabernet berries and plums, tannins. $25 Merlot 2019 OTHER REDS subtle use of oak and HHH1/2 92pts soft delicate tannins. 919 Reserve Lovely juicy blackcurrant/ 14 TASTED $20 Riverland plum fruit with a 13 AWARDED Andrew Peace Sangiovese background of oak; fine Swan Hill Victoria 2018 HHH 90pts tannins are the highlight. A very consistent Zweigelt 2020 Nose more in the $13 group of varieties and HHHH 94pts savoury spectrum with a styles. “Winemakers Sweet dark berry cherry fruit lift and a firm Dominic Wines are making exciting bouquet with good tannic palate. $38 Boundary Station new wines from the balance between fruit Riverland Cabernet various Mediterranean and oak flavours and a 919 Reserve Sauvignon Merlot varieties that perform velvety tannic finish. $22 Riverland Durif 2018 2020 HHH 90pts best in warm regions,” Ricca Terra HHH 91pts An oaky wine that opens said one judge. “The Riverland Nero A massive wine with up to boysenberry-like public is starting to take D’Avola 2020 plenty of length, huge characters. Shows some more notice of these HHHH 94pts varietal “bigness” and complexity. $6.99 emerging and alternative Light and lifted spicy/ muscular tannins. $47 varieties.” perfumed floral nose with Burk Salter Wines good weight of fruit on SA Riverland the palate, firm tannins Cabernet Sauvignon and high acid. $27 2018 HHH 90pts Well-made soft juicy wine with lifted red fruit, upfront tannins and ageing potential. $20 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 79

RIVER REGIONS Visit our website and keep Burk Salter Wines Glamper SA Shiraz MOSCATO up to date with all our latest Moorunde Reserve Cabernet 2019 wine info, news, competitions, SA Riverland HHH1/2 92pts 3 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon Nice aromas of plums 2 AWARDED tastings and events. 2018 HHH 90pts and vanilla with floral Soft easy drinking style notes. Big, rounded As expected moscato Become a subscriber to enter with very pleasant palate; lots of fruit and fares well throughout into our exciting regular blackcurrant-like varietal spices. $12 this region with these competitions. characters. $40 Grower’s Gate examples showing South Australia lovely sweet fresh fruit Follow us and keep up to SHIRAZ & Shiraz 2019 HHH1/2 characters. date with all our latest BLENDS 92pts wine info, tastings and Dark chocolaty nose Dominic Wines 12 TASTED with a peppery cherry Boundary Station events on facebook, twitter 9 AWARDED lift and a full bodied and Riverland Moscato and instagram. well-balanced palate. 2020 HHH1/2 92pts A solid class of different $14.95 Intense floral/citrus Winestate Magazine styles ranging from the Dominic Wines bouquet and lively @WinestateEd fresh and vibrant ones Boundary Station intensity of sweet with well-balanced oak Riverland Shiraz Muscat-like fruit to those wines backed Grenache 2020 HHH flavours. “Yummy!” up with oak tannins. 90pts $6.99 “These have a drinkable A pretty wine in the factor that is very black fruit spectrum with Grower’s Gate attractive,” said one attractive oak and soft South Australia judge. tannins. $6.99 Moscato 2020 HHH Buller Wines RLB 90pts 919 Reserve Swan Hill Shiraz A sweeter but well- Riverland Shiraz 2019 HHH 90pts balanced wine with 2020 HHHHH 98pts Very mulberry-like fresh grapey notes Dense inky style with aromas with oak and hints of pineapple. big spicy berry fruit beneath and warm $14.95 fragrances and a full fruit flavours on a juicy flavoured fruit driven palate. $17 FORTIFIED palate that’s sweet Flavabom Vine Dried and juicy in the mouth SA Shiraz 2019 HHH 1 TASTED with soft approachable 90pts 1 AWARDED tannins. $45 Inky purple wine; lovely black fruits, oak notes and Only one tasted but Zilzie Wines upfront tannins. “Punters what a wine! A beautiful Butterfly Kiss will love it!” $25 example of a fortified Victoria Shiraz 2020 Andrew Peace style. HHHH1/2 96pts Wines Masterpeace Lovely purple wine. Victoria Shiraz 2020 919 Limited Release Smells of spices and HHH 91pts Riverland Vintage Vegemite with great Fragrant and youthful Fortified 2020 weight and length of fruit focused, silky soft, HHHH1/2 96pts blackcurrant flavours, wine with pretty floral Deep inky purple wine, “yummy” oak, high acid notes. $13 bright fresh spirity and ripe tannins. $20 nose and a rich and flavoursome fruit driven H by Haselgrove palate with a drying South Australia finish. “It is an elegant Shiraz 2019 and feminine style.” $65 HHHH 94pts An austere but very drinkable style. Has a jammy black fruit nose and straightforward cherry driven palate. $15 www.winestate.com.au 80 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

64 TASTED 50 AWARDED SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED With the world going “dry” these two classes of sweet whites Château du Tariquet Koonara Flowers and fortifieds, it could be argued, are greatly under presented Domaine Tariquet for Lucy South these days in any selection of fine wines. However, for the Dernières Grives Australia Moscato aficionado or the newcomer, these offer great examples of what Côtes de Gascogne 2020 HHH 90pts can be achieved for the dessert spectrum, away from the usual IGP Petit Manseng A drier style with some dry whites and dry reds. Often it is just a case of letting the 2018 HHH1/2 92pts red fruit and garden buyer try some of these great examples to have them on board. Interesting baked apple floral characters. Plenty and pear-like aromas and of acid. $19.95 LATE HARVEST Giesen The Brothers Trentham Estate honeyed sweetness on Marlborough Late The Family Murray the balanced palate. $NA Hollydene Estate 3 TASTED Harvest Sauvignon Darling Moscato Château du Tariquet JUUL Wicked Upper 2 AWARDED Blanc 2014 (375ml) 2020 HHHH 94pts Domaine la Hitaire Hunter Valley HHHH1/2 97pts Attractive Muscat and Jardin d’Hiver Côtes Semillon 2015 A couple of excellent A very classy beautifully tropical fruit fragrances de Gascogne IGP HHH 90pts examples showing how aged marmalade-like and lovely balance Gros Manseng Petit Slightly off dry style well sauvignon blanc bouquet with great of fruit flavours and Manseng 2020 that has retained fruit works as a sweet wine. presence and freshness sweetness. “Makes you HHH 90pts freshness despite its of fruit on the syrupy want another!” $18 Smells like chamomile age. Tannic finish. $22 Konrad Marlborough palate with a drying flowers and wild honey Late Harvest finish. “Yum!” $29.99 with sweet/spicy fruit NOBLE Riesling Sauvignon flavours. $NA BOTRYTIS Blanc NV OTHER SWEET Cranswick Lakefield WINES HHHHH 98pts WHITE STYLES Dolcetto & Syrah Intense aromas of SEA Sweet Wine 8 TASTED citrus marmalade 10 TASTED 2020 HHH 90pts 7 AWARDED with aged honey 7 AWARDED Pretty purple wine notes and a lusciously with a sweetness of Strong class of excellent flavoursome palate Consistent class of strawberry and cream- wines from winemakers that’s a balanced well-made easy drinking like characters. $5.99 who can handle the complexity of fruit, wines rather than being Buller Wines RLB complexities of the acid and sweetness. complex styles. Victoria Moscato “sticky” style of wines. $16.99 2020 HHH 90pts Lifted Muscat aromas De Bortoli Wines with a tropical dash and Noble One Riverina a sweet lemonade-like Botrytis Semillon palate. $17 2018 (375ml) HHHHH 98pts Impressive marmalade- like aromas with toasty oak notes. The palate has a massive amount of fruit and loads of sugar but it’s all perfectly balanced by the acid. $36 JUDGES Eric Semmler Andrew La Nauze Jade Woods Proprietor of 919 Wine Winemaker at Yalumba Experienced winemaker Company. Formerly Winery. Previously and second in charge winemaker for the Hardy winemaker at Norfolk at Zilzie Wines. 23 Wine Company. Previously Rise, Robe and St years in the wine with Brown Brothers Hallett, Barossa Valley. industry including senior and Auldstone Cellars. Has vintaged in Alsace winemaker for AVL. Has spent eight years as and completed the Previously with Deakin fortified winemaker for AWRI (Australian Wine Estate, Penfolds and Hardys. Associate judge at Research Institute) wine Seppeltsfield. Rutherglen, McLaren Vale assessment course. and Riverland shows. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 81

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED 919 Riverland FORTIFIED Pale Dry Apera NV HHHH1/2 96pts 19 TASTED Aromatic, crisp and 14 AWARDED flavoursome. Nice nutty floral nose and A wide range of excellent richness fortifieds ranging from across the length of sweet liqueur styles to the palate with great the full rich vintage port flor expression. $35 styles. “Watch the spirit and varieties used,” advised one judge. “The better wines offered great ageing potential.” Gapsted Wines Limited Release Alpine Valleys Vintage Touriga 2018 HHHHH 98pts Fantastic nose full The Ned The Kings Series of floral spirit, dark Honey Moon Marlborough A Sticky End chocolate and licorice. Vineyard EBVR Noble Sauvignon Marlborough Noble Great length and (Early Bottled Blanc 2020 Sauvignon Blanc intensity of sweet Vintage Red) HHHH1/2 96pts 2018 HHH 91pts varietal fruit flavours with Adelaide Hills A pleasant aromatic Obvious marmalade balancing tannins and dry Vintage varietal mix of honey, aromas and full finish. 3-5 $31 Fortified 2019 toast, marmalade and sweetness well HHHH1/2 96pts citrus with generous integrated on the palate. Chestnut Teal Trentham Estate Big, rich, bold and flavour profile on the $24.99 NZ Limited Release complex with lots of very approachable The Original fruit cake notes and a palate. $19.99 NZ Yarran A Few Words Mildura Apera NV floral spirit lift to the Saddler’s Riverina Botrytis HHHH 95pts nose. Huge tannin Riverina Botrytis Semillon 2018 Oloroso style – rich, concentration on the Semillon 2019 HHH 91pts aged and nutty with intense palate. HHHH1/2 96pts Maderised citrus nose attractive citrussy Toffee and honeycomb with great balance of elements and hints 5+ $60 botrytis-like characters fruit, acid and sugar on of toffee but not too Mr Riggs to the stonefruit nose the palate. $26 sweet. $NA The Elder McLaren with generous zesty Honey Moon Vale Fortified lemon sherbet flavours APERA Vineyard Sweet Shiraz 2016 and cleansing acidity. (SHERRY) Cream Adelaide Hills HHHH1/2 96pts $40 Apera NV (500ml) Deep crimson wine with Paulett Wines Alison 4 TASTED HHH 91pts vibrant fruit fragrances Clare Valley Botrytis 4 AWARDED Subtle sweetness to the in the red spectrum and Riesling 2020 floral fruit nose with a a great rose petal lift. HHHH 94pts A strong class with a very sweet but balanced Palate is richly layered Golden wine with elegant variety of both dry and citrus palate. $40 with fruit and tannins. citrus nose edged with sweet styles. “Try them honey and very sweet all and decide which you Cellar Reserve 3-5 $30 palate but everything in prefer,” suggested one Murray Darling Gumpara Barossa balance. $30 judge. V.P. Shiraz 2020 Valley Liqueur Mr Riggs Sticky HHHH1/2 96pts Frontignac NV End McLaren Vale Talijancich Julian Attractive spicy fruit (500ml) HHHH 94pts Viognier 2018 James Rare Pedro nose – very Portuguese Aged floral/Muscat HHH1/2 92pts 1978 Solero Swan in style with some expression to the nose Apricot nose with Valley Pedro great sweet fruit on the and full fruitiness to the pineapple notes. Quite Ximenez NV juicy palate nice chewy palate. Enjoyable drinking a sweet palate with nice HHHHH 98pts tannins and drying on offer here! $32 phenolic texture. Very Lovely rich dark aged finish. 5+ $20 Whistling Kite smart! $25 honey, caramel and Classic Riverland fig fragrances and Late Picked an intense explosion Manseng NV of nutty treacle and HHHH 94pts honeycomb flavours. Chocolate, toffee and Great palate length. $70 raisins lift off the nose. Very sweet palate but retains a nice balance of acid with a hint of oak. $50 82 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

varietal tasting 919 Limited Kalleske JMK 919 Limited Gumpara Barossa 919 Riverland Release Riverland Barossa Valley V.P. Release Riverland Valley Tawny Classic Tawny NV Vintage Port 2020 Shiraz 2018 Vintage Port Grenache NV HHHHH 98pts HHHH 94pts HHH 91pts 2013 HHH 94pts HHHHH 98pts Aged rancio richness A drier style with nice A great example of a A big, rich and intense Deep tawny-hued to the nose with subtle rich fruit cake characters rich ageing fortified. concentration of berries wine that is a delicious fruit fragrances. Palate to the nose and intense Plenty of spicy fruit and with dark chocolate balance of chocolate, is a perfect balance of concentration of dark tannins. $25 emerging. $100 spices, nuts and nuts, oak, acid, sugar spicy flavours. $65 Pirramimma citrus rind characters. and alcohol with toffee Pirramimma Aged Adelaide Hills TAWNY Has upfront tannins notes on the finish. $40 McLaren Vale White Vintage Fortified and mouth coating De Bortoli Wines Fortified NV (375ml) Shiraz 2018 (375ml) 7 TASTED viscosity. $32 Old Boy’s 21 YO HHH 91pts HHH 90pts 5 AWARDED Fine SEA Tawny Pretty rose petal Big sweet chewy style NV (500ml) bouquet with a hint of with loads of toffee/ Excellent class with HHHH1/2 97pts musk and nice spicy caramel characters and wines from expert Full rancio bouquet mocha-like flavours. $30 heady spirit. $30 producers who were with aged, honeyed Gumpara Barossa Carmine’s Neil’s aware of the stylistic nuances. Ageing brandy Valley Liqueur Patch Adelaide requirements of this complexity to the dry Semillon NV Foothills V.P. Shiraz group. “Despite their palate showing nice HHH 91pts 2013 HHH 91pts age they retain that sweetness and soft Pungent ageing cola-like An ageing, sweet but necessary vibrancy,” spiciness. $45 aromas with smooth tannic style with raisined said one judge. Pirramimma Digby mouth filling caramel-like fruit-like characters and “Considerable skill and Rare Old T McLaren palate. $32 dry finish. $65 patience is required to Vale Tawny NV Clayfield Lifeboat produce this style.” HHHH1/2 96pts Grampians Fortified Ageing fruit aromas with Shiraz 2019 noticeable spirit. A drier HHH 90pts style palate with nice Straightforward style fresh oak, high level of with great expression of spirit and tannins playing shiraz fruit supported by their part. $100 soft tannins. $60 Beer, Wine & Spirits The leading retailer for small batch spirits in Adelaide including scotch whisky, gin & cognac/armagnac. Traditional Regional Wines We stock a good selection of traditional wines and good value wines. Natural Wines Come and see our line-up of these interesting minimal intervention and topical sustainable wines. Hutt Street Cellars 253 Hutt Street, Adelaide SA, 5000 ph: 08 8232 1570 email: [email protected] website: www.huttstreetcellars.com.au July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 83

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED Pirramimma Aged Hollydene Estate Buller Wines Follow us and keep up to McLaren Vale Tawny Rutherglen Victoria Calliope Grand date with all our latest NV HHHH 94pts Liqueur Muscat NV Rutherglen Muscat wine info, tastings and Oak and ageing spicy HHHHH 98pts NV HHHHH 98pts chocolaty fruit nose. Dark brown and dense Beautiful balance here events on facebook, Rich chocolaty length to treacle-like appearance between aged complexity twitter and instagram. the palate. Clean spirit with an aged caramel and fresh vibrancy. Lovely and a tannic finish. $25 nose, some Christmas golden syrup, toffee Connect on social with cake nuances and layers and raisin aromas and Winestate TOPAQUE of sweet fruit flavours. flavours. “A really special “History in a glass!” $32 wine.” $150 www.facebook.com/Winestate- 3 TASTED 919 Riverland De Bortoli Wines Magazine 3 AWARDED Classic Muscat NV Rutherglen Estate HHHHH 98pts Classic Rutherglen twitter.com/winestateed Three excellent wines Attractive caramel and Muscat NV (500ml) www.instagram.com/winestate/ here with the typical raisin aromas with a fruit HHHH 94pts butterscotch characters. cake-like lift. Fabulous Golden hues and an www.winestate.com.au “A delight to drink,” fruit presence and power oak driven nose with enthused one judge. on the velvety smooth raisined fruit and spices sweet palate with slight underneath. Palate 919 Riverland dusty tannins. $42 exhibits finesse and Classic Topaque Morris Old Premium length. $35 NV HHHHH 98pts Rare Rutherglen Carmine’s Wood This is a delightful Muscat NV HHHHH Aged SEA Classic complexity of 99pts Muscat NV butterscotch, dates, “A rare one this!” Still HHH1/2 91pts toffee, malt and figs. fresh despite its age Slightly austere but Great aromas and a with immense power easy drinking style really lovely palate and concentration of with light florals and showing excellent caramel, honey and uncomplicated aromas flavour depth and raisin-like characters. and flavours. $49 balance. $42 “Handle with care!” $90 Buller Wines Fine Old Victoria Muscat Buller Wines NV HHH 91pts Fine Old Victoria Raisined toffee nose and Topaque NV quite a light and fresh HHHH1/2 96pts palate for a Muscat. $25 An attractive straightforward style with ageing toffee, caramel and malt-like characters. Has a sweet vinous nose and nicely balanced flavours. $25 Buller Wines Calliope Grand Rutherglen Topaque NV HHHH1/2 96pts Aromas of raisins, toffee and chocolate with some Muscat notes. Great power and intensity of ageing Muscat-like fruit flavours. $150 MUSCAT Saddler’s Riverina & Rutherglen Rare 8 TASTED Muscat NV 8 AWARDED HHHHH 98pts Lovely fresh apricot Amazing results fruit characters laced showcasing the best with a concentration fortifieds you will find of fig paste, nut anywhere in the world! and caramel-like “They are few and far complexity. Smooth between, enjoy them and velvety in the while you can!” said one mouth. $40 judge. 84 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

55 TASTED 54 RECOMMENDED MICHAEL COOPER RECENT RELEASES There’s something for everyone in the latest batch of new Main Divide releases, with outstanding examples of chardonnay, riesling, North Canterbury muscat, gewürztraminer, sparkling wine and pinot noir. The tasting Chardonnay also featured impressive pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, 2020 HHHH 95pts dessert wine and syrah. If your only experience of New Zealand Offering good value, wine is Marlborough sauvignon blanc, try some of these beauties. this barrel-fermented, lees-aged wine is full- Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available bodied, with generous, in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). ripe stonefruit flavours, woven with fresh acidity, and well-integrated oak adding complexity. Still very youthful, it should be at its best mid- 2022+. (From Pegasus Bay.) $21 (A, UK) CHARDONNAY Pask Declaration Moutere Hills Sarau Waiparore Pask Gimblett Hawke’s Bay Reserve Nelson Tutukaka Coast Gravels Hawke’s 13 TASTED Chardonnay 2019 Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay 2020 Bay Chardonnay 12 RECOMMENDED HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 97pts HHHH1/2 96pts 2019 HHHH 94pts This stylish, youthful Drinking well now, this Showing good Already drinking well, Chardonnay thrives in wine was hand-picked lush, single-vineyard personality, this youthful, this partly hand-picked the relative warmth of in the Gimblett Gravels, wine was hand- vibrant Northland wine wine was matured for the middle and upper and fermented and picked and French was barrel-fermented nine months in French North Island regions, matured for 10 months oak-fermented. Bright, and lees-aged. Bright, oak barriques and yielding weighty wines in French oak barriques light yellow/green, it is light lemon/green, it puncheons (10% new). with ripe stonefruit (55% new). Fragrant mouthfilling, with rich, is mouthfilling, with Bright, light lemon/ flavours, rich and and concentrated, it is ripe stonefruit flavours, generous, ripe, citrusy, green, it is vibrantly smooth. Those from weighty, with rich peach a vague hint of honey, peachy flavours, finely fruity, with very good the Wairarapa and and grapefruit flavours, biscuity notes adding integrated oak, and depth of peach and South Island regions mealy, biscuity notes complexity, balanced a slightly creamy, grapefruit flavours, a offer a style contrast, adding complexity, and acidity and a very harmonious finish. Best subtle seasoning of possessing a cool- a long, slightly creamy harmonious finish. $55 drinking 2023+. $28 biscuity oak, and a climate vigour, intensity finish. Best drinking Stoneleigh Wild Earth finely balanced, slightly and vibrancy. 2023+. $40 Rapaura Series Central Otago creamy finish. $22 Brancott Estate Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 Coopers Creek Palliser Estate Letter Series O Marlborough HHHH1/2 96pts Cee Vee Gisborne Martinborough Marlborough Chardonnay 2020 Well worth cellaring, Chardonnay Chardonnay 2019 Chardonnay 2019 HHHH1/2 97pts this elegant wine Viognier 2020 HHHHH 98pts HHHH1/2 97pts Showing obvious was hand-picked at HHH1/2 93pts Still developing, this Still unfolding, this potential for cellaring, Pisa and fermented Enjoyable young, elegant, youthful wine youthful wine is bright, this is a weighty, fleshy and matured for 10 this is a 3:1 blend of has a fragrant, complex, light lemon/green, wine with generous, months in French oak unoaked chardonnay and slightly smoky bouquet. with a fragrant, smoky ripe, peachy, slightly casks (10% new). Full- viognier fermented in Full-bodied, it has rich, bouquet. Mouthfilling, toasty flavours, fresh, bodied, it is fresh and seasoned oak barrels. ripe, stonefruit flavours, it is vibrantly fruity, with balanced acidity and youthful, with strong, Mouthfilling, it is fruity, seasoned with well- concentrated, ripe, excellent complexity. vibrant, citrusy flavours, with generous, peachy, integrated, toasty oak, peachy flavours, mealy $25 gently seasoned with slightly spicy flavours and a long, finely poised and toasty notes adding biscuity oak, and a dry, and a smooth, slightly finish. Best drinking complexity, fresh, persistent finish. Best buttery finish. $18 2023+. $43 balanced acidity, and a drinking 2023+. $32 (A) lingering finish. $25 July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 85

MICHAEL COOPER Coopers Creek Bald Hills Kirameki Renato Nelson Pinot Coopers Creek Jackson Estate Select Vineyards Big Single Vineyard Gris 2020 HHHH Kumeu Pinot Gris Stich Marlborough & Buttery Gisborne Bannockburn 94pts 2020 HHH1/2 93pts Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay 2019 Central Otago Estate-grown on the Already drinking well, 2020 HHHH 95pts HHH1/2 93pts Pinot Gris 2019 coast, at Kina, this this pale orange wine is Showing good intensity, Crafted deliberately HHHH1/2 96pts very pale straw wine mouthfilling, with very this wine was estate- in the ‘full-on’ style Delicious now, but is full-bodied, with good depth of stonefruit grown at sites in the popular in the 1980s, also ageworthy, this strong, peachy, slightly and spice flavours, a central Wairau Valley this pale gold wine estate-grown wine was spicy flavours, a sliver hint of ginger and a and the Waihopai Valley. was fermented and hand-picked and tank- of sweetness and moderately firm, dry Crisp and youthful, it is matured for 11 months fermented. Pale lemon/ balanced acidity. A lively, finish. $18 strongly varietal, with in American oak barrels green, it is weighty, generous, wine, it’s fresh tropical fruit and (20% new). Full-bodied, with concentrated, already drinking well. SAUVIGNON herbaceous flavours that it is a generous, vibrant peach, pear and $20 BLANC linger well. $21 (UK) moderately complex spice flavours, a touch wine with plenty of of complexity, and a Waiparore Tutukaka 6 TASTED Renato Nelson peachy, toasty flavour finely balanced, off-dry Coast Pinot Gris 6 RECOMMENDED Sauvignon Blanc and a creamy-smooth finish. $30 (A) 2020 HHHH 94pts 2020 HHHH 94pts finish. $25 Coopers Creek This powerful young Think sauvignon blanc, Fresh, punchy and Select Vineyards wine was estate-grown think Marlborough - but full-bodied, this Haha Hawke’s Bay Home Block Kumeu in Northland. Robust, sauvignon blanc is also regional blend has Chardonnay 2020 Pinot Gris 2020 it has vibrant pear and the most widely planted strong tropical fruit HHH1/2 92pts HHHH1/2 96pts spice flavours, moderate variety in Hawke’s Bay, flavours, a herbaceous Enjoyable young, this From “the best grapes acidity, very good Nelson and Canterbury. undercurrent, and a partly barrel-fermented we have ever picked vigour and length, and The bumper, dry 2020 basically dry, crisp finish. wine is full-bodied and from our Home Block a basically dry finish. vintage has yielded $18 creamy-textured, in a vineyard”, this youthful Well worth cellaring, aromatic, crisp and moderately complex wine is weighty and it should be at its best forthright wines, full of Anchorage Family style with balanced vibrantly fruity, with mid-2022+. $26 varietal character. Estate Nelson acidity and very good strong, ripe, peachy, Anchorage Family Sauvignon Blanc depth of fresh, ripe, slightly spicy flavours, Estate Nelson Pinot Palliser Estate 2020 HHH1/2 93pts peachy, slightly buttery balanced acidity, and Gris 2020 HHH1/2 Martinborough This punchy, freshly flavours. $18 a finely textured, dry, 93pts Sauvignon Blanc herbaceous, medium- rounded finish. Best Pale straw, this easy- 2020 bodied wine is aromatic PINOT GRIS drinking 2022+. $22 drinking, medium-bodied HHHH1/2 97pts and strongly varietal, Haha Hawke’s Bay wine is lively, with very Strongly varietal, this with very good depth 8 TASTED Pinot Gris 2020 good depth of peachy, highly aromatic, youthful of melon and green 8 RECOMMENDED HHHH 95pts slightly spicy flavours, wine is mouthfilling, capsicum flavours, crisp Unfolding well, this a sliver of sweetness, crisp and dry, with and lively. Fine value. The generally dry medium to full-bodied and lots of drink-young punchy, tropical fruit and $15 2020 vintage yielded wine has vibrant, citrusy, appeal. $15 herbaceous flavours, and excellent pinot gris, with peachy flavours, hints a racy, tightly structured Anchorage impressive body and of pears and spices, finish. Best drinking Sauvignon Blanc flavour depth. Those fractional sweetness, 2022. $29 (A, UK, US) 2020 HHH 91pts grown in the North and very good vigour Priced sharply, this Island are typically full- and depth. $18 Anchorage Nelson wine is fresh, bodied, ripe wines with Matawhero Single Family Estate crisp and medium- gentle acidity, suiting Vineyard Gisborne Reserve Nelson bodied, with tropical the dry style well, while Pinot Gris 2020 Sauvignon Blanc fruit and herbal flavours, South Island pinot gris HHHH 95pts 2020 HHHH 95pts full of youthful vigour. often have a sliver of Mouthfilling, fleshy and Priced sharply, this $13 sweetness to balance smooth, this wine is mouthfilling, lively wine their appetising acidity. enjoyable young, but has good intensity of OTHER worth cellaring too. tropical fruit flavours, WHITES Bright, light lemon/ a herbal undercurrent, green, it has good and a tightly structured, 7 TASTED intensity of vibrant finely balanced finish. 7 RECOMMENDED peach, pear and spice $17 flavours, and a dryish, New Zealand’s cool and very harmonious finish. ‘intermediate’ climates $23 (A) for grape-growing suit a wide range of white- wine varieties, including riesling, gewürztraminer, muscat and chenin blanc. Albarino is the hottest new kid on the block. 86 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2021

recent releases Bald Hills Last Light Matawhero Church SWEET Palliser Estate ROSÉ Single Vineyard House Single WHITES The Griffin Bannockburn Vineyard Gisborne Martinborough 1 TASTED Central Otago Chenin Blanc 2020 1 TASTED Méthode 1 RECOMMENDED Riesling 2019 HHHH1/2 97pts 1 RECOMMENDED Traditionnelle HHHHH 98pts Already highly enjoyable, 2017 HHHHH 98pts Jackson Estate Attractively scented this wine is full of youthful Waiparore Matthias Pale straw, this vivacious Alayna Pinot Rosé and very harmonious, vigour. Bright, light yellow/ Tutukaka Coast wine is a 50/50 blend 2020 HHHH 94pts this light-bodied wine green, it is full-bodied, Syrah Dessert of pinot noir and Pale pink, this fresh, is a medium style with very good intensity Wine 2020 (375ml) chardonnay. Drinking lively wine has very with incisive, citrusy, of vibrant, peachy, slightly HHHH1/2 97pts well now, it is highly good vigour and depth limey flavours, a gentle spicy flavours, appetising Made from naturally fragrant and tightly of strawberryish, spicy splash of sweetness, acidity and a dryish, finely dehydrated grapes, structured, with intense, flavours, a hint of apricot appetising acidity and a balanced finish. Best this Northland wine citrusy, yeasty, slightly and a dry finish. It’s long finish. Drink now or drinking 2023+. $26 (A) is bright red, rich and toasty flavours, showing ready to roll. $21 cellar. $30 (A) Coopers Creek sweet, with moderate excellent complexity, and Pegasus Bay Select Vineyards alcohol, concentrated a long, crisp finish. $53 PINOT NOIR Fortissimo Bell-Ringer Gisborne plum, spice and liquorice Palliser Estate Waipara Valley Albariño 2020 flavours, fresh acidity The Rose Méthode 11 TASTED North Canterbury HHHH 95pts and a long finish. A 2018 HHHHH 98pts 11 RECOMMENDED Muscat NV (375ml) Still unfolding, this distinctive wine, it’s This distinctive, pink/ HHHHH 98pts fragrant, full-bodied wine already delicious. $68 pale orange sparkling Central Otago enjoys Similar in style to is vibrantly fruity, with was made entirely the highest profile, but Muscat Beaumes de good intensity of citrusy, SPARKLING from pinot noir. Lively, very classy pinot noirs Venise, this distinctive, spicy flavours, dry and it has rich peach, are also flowing from rare wine was handled appetisingly crisp. Best 4 TASTED strawberry, spice and further north, including in tanks and stop- drinking 2022+. $22 4 RECOMMENDED yeast flavours, showing Marlborough and fermented with the Matawhero Single This small class was notable complexity, Martinborough. Lower- addition of neutral spirit. Vineyard Gisborne dominated by two and a basically dry, very tier wines, such as Pale gold, it is weighty Gewürztraminer very classy wines from harmonious finish. $56 Akarua Rua, reveal the (16% alc/vol), with 2020 HHHH 95pts Palliser Estate, proving Haha Brut Cuvée NV Central Otago region’s vibrant, concentrated, Attractively perfumed, the ability of the cool- HHHH 95pts ability to produce reds peachy flavours, hints this clearly varietal wine climate Wairarapa region Priced right, this that are delicious in of oranges and honey, is already drinking well. to produce sparkling chardonnay/pinot noir their youth, at relatively gentle acidity and a Fresh and full-bodied, wines that are fully a blend was grown affordable prices. sweet, oily richness. $42 it has very good depth match for the South in Hawke’s Bay and Pegasus Bay of lychee and spice Island’s finest. Marlborough. The Waipara Valley flavours, a hint of ginger, bouquet is citrusy and North Canterbury and a dryish finish. Best yeasty; the palate fresh Gewürztraminer drinking 2023. $23 (A) and lively, with good 2019 HHHHH 98pts Anchorage Classic intensity, gentle biscuity Full of personality, this Riesling 2020 notes adding complexity, softly mouthfilling wine HHH1/2 93pts and a dryish, finely was fermented and Enjoyable young, this poised finish. $22 matured for six months Mosel-style wine is Haha Brut Rosé NV in old oak puncheons. attractively scented, light HHHH 94pts Light lemon/green, it is and lively, with citrusy Instantly appealing, this perfumed, sturdy and flavours and an off-dry, pale pink sparkling is rich, with deep lychee, finely poised finish. Fine a blend of chardonnay pear and spice flavours, value. $13 and pinot noir, grown gentle sweetness, a in Marlborough and slightly oily texture and Hawke’s Bay. It has good complexity and strong, strawberryish, harmony. Drink now or peachy, gently yeasty cellar. $30 flavours, fresh acidity, and a dryish, smooth, lingering finish. $22 May/June 2021 W I N E S TAT E 87

MICHAEL COOPER Akarua Bald Hills Jackson Estate Akarua Rua Bald Hills 3 Acres Bannockburn Bannockburn Vintage Widow Central Otago Bannockburn Central Otago Central Otago Marlborough Pinot Noir 2020 Central Otago Pinot Noir 2019 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 97pts Pinot Noir 2019 HHHHH 98pts Central Otago Pinot HHHHH 98pts Offering top value, this HHHH1/2 97pts Already highly enjoyable, Noir 2017 HHHHH Weighty and complex, wine was estate-grown Priced right, this this estate-grown red 98pts this savoury red was at Bannockburn and Bannockburn red was hand-picked from Still very youthful, this hand-picked from Pisa and matured in spent a year in French 23-year-old vines and estate-grown red was estate-grown, mature French oak barriques. oak barriques (27% matured for nearly a year matured for nearly a year vines in the Southern Deep ruby, it is fragrant, new). Deep ruby, it is in French oak barriques in French oak barriques Valleys and matured for mouthfilling and vibrantly full-bodied, with very (27% new). Bright ruby, (30% new). Deep, bright 10 months in French oak fruity, with generous, good density of cherry, it is full-bodied, sweet- ruby, it is vigorous, with barriques. Deep, bright ripe cherry, plum and plum and spice flavours, fruited and supple, with excellent density of ruby, it is still youthful, spice flavours, savoury complex, savoury and vibrant cherry, plum cherry, plum and spice with concentrated, ripe notes adding complexity, well-structured, with a and spice flavours, flavours, fresh acidity, cherry, plum and spice and fine-grained tannins. moderately firm finish. finely integrated oak savoury notes adding flavours, seasoned with Already delicious. $25 Best drinking 2024+. adding complexity, and complexity, and obvious nutty oak, and a rich, (A, UK, US) $32 (A) excellent depth and cellaring potential. Best finely textured finish. Brancott Estate harmony. Best 2024+. drinking 2023+. $46 (A) $40 (UK) Letter Series T $39 (A, UK, US) Coal Pit Tiwha Palliser Estate Marlborough Central Otago Martinborough Pinot Noir 2019 Pinot Noir 2019 Pinot Noir 2019 HHHH 94pts HHHHH 98pts HHHHH 98pts Deep ruby, this savoury, This perfumed, silky- This refined red is deep medium to full-bodied textured red was hand- ruby, with a slightly red has a fragrant, harvested at Gibbston and earthy fragrance. slightly earthy bouquet. matured for 10 months in Still youthful, it is Well balanced, it has French oak casks (28% mouthfilling, sweet- generous, plummy, spicy new). Deep, bright ruby, it fruited and finely flavours, fresh acidity is mouthfilling and supple, textured, with rich and supple tannins, in an with generous, ripe cherry, plum and spice easy-drinking style, likely cherry, plum and spice flavours, complex, to be at its best in 2023. flavours, and a subtle savoury and harmonious. $25 seasoning of oak. A very Best drinking 2023+. Anchorage Family graceful, youthful red, $59 (A, UK, US) Estate Nelson it should break into full Pinot Noir 2020 stride 2023+. $57 (A, UK) HHH1/2 93pts Bargain-priced, this fragrant, mouthfilling, supple red is drinking well in its youth. Ruby hued, it has ripe, cherryish, red berry and spice flavours, a touch of complexity, and good depth and harmony. $17 Follow us and keep up to Connect on social with Winestate date with all our latest wine info, tastings and www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine twitter.com/winestateed events on facebook, twitter and instagram. www.instagram.com/winestate/ www.winestate.com.au 88 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

recent releases Black Cottage OTHER REDS Matawhero Pask Gimblett Central Otago Single Vineyard Gravels Hawke’s Pinot Noir 2020 4 TASTED Gisborne Merlot Bay Syrah 2019 HHH1/2 92pts 4 RECOMMENDED 2019 HHHH 95pts HHH1/2 93pts This very easy-drinking This generous, supple Priced right, this highly red was grown at Pask Declaration red has a fresh, slightly approachable red was Alexandra and Gibbston. Gimblett Gravels spicy and earthy matured for a year Bright ruby, it is floral Hawke’s Bay bouquet. Full-bodied, in seasoned French and vibrantly fruity, with Syrah 2019 it has very good depth oak. Full-coloured, it is good depth of cherry, HHHH1/2 97pts of ripe, plummy, spicy medium-bodied, with plum and spice flavours, Still very youthful, this flavours, showing strong, fresh, plum and showing some savoury estate-grown red was considerable complexity, spice flavours, a hint of complexity, and ripe, matured for 13 months and a lengthy, smooth nutty oak, fresh acidity supple tannins. Best in French oak, mostly finish. Drink now or and supple tannins. Best drinking mid-2022+. $26 new. Full-coloured, it is cellar. $23 (A) drinking 2022+. $22 (A, UK, US) mouthfilling, with strong Coopers Creek Black Cottage plum and black pepper Select Vineyards STAR RATINGS  Marlborough flavours, savoury notes Guido in Velvet Pinot Noir 2020 adding complexity, and Pants Kumeu Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of HHH1/2 92pts a long, spicy, supple Montepulciano excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. This graceful, ruby finish. Best drinking 2018 HHH1/2 93pts All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry hued red is a medium- 2023+. $50 This very easy drinking, professionals and are compared in peer bodied style, grown in medium-bodied red classes by three judges. the Southern Valleys. was estate-grown in CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Vibrantly fruity, it has west Auckland. Ruby a major mail-order business. fresh cherry, plum hued, it has moderately CD Cellar door price. and spice flavours, a concentrated, ripe, CDO Cellar door only. restrained touch of oak berryish, spicy flavours, SO Sold out. and good length. Best seasoned with sweet $N/A Price not available at time of printing. drinking mid-2022+. oak, and a well-rounded  Contact information pg 112. $24 finish. $28 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under and NZ $25 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 89

PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR: SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save! Australia PACKAGE 6 issues (1yr) $A69 (includes $6.27 GST) ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 12 issues (2yrs) $A128 (includes $11.64 GST) which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full Price include GST, postage and handling. on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available New Zealand only through online order, Price includes Airmail. www.winestate.com.au Please mark  one option: 6 issues (1 year) $A79 12 issues (2 years) $A150 Asia, Pacific Price includes Airmail. Please mark : 6 issues (1 year) $A120 Elsewhere Price includes Airmail. Please mark : 6 issues (1 year) $A130 Mr / Mrs / Miss Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) E-mail Your subscription will start from the next issue. I enclose my cheque for $ payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: Mastercard Visa Name on card: Signature Expires / Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Recipient’s Name Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) GIFTSUBSCRIPTION Please send a gift card to Me Recipient Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au Also fill in your details in the section above. 90 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND July/August 2021 Issue 173 Australia & New Zealand THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE INTERNATIONAL LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. CERTIFIED Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 organic & Biodynamic WINE AWARDS™ 2021 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

Australia & New Zealand WELCOME to our annual Winestate Organic & Biodynamic wine show awards. This year with additional entries from Europe we INTERNATIONAL have expanded the title to include “International” in the name as CERTIFIED we welcome more wines from France, Italy and Spain to join us in this fascinating journey. With the help of our European partners organic Millesime Bio, who are the world’s biggest promoter of Organic wines we are proud to be part of the push for cleaner, greener & Biodynamic fruit and for less or no chemicals in the winemaking phase. This WINE AWARDS™ 2021 year we also welcome (OIA) Organic Industries Australia as the overall sponsor of our major trophy for Best Wine of Show. OIA are 92 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER the peak industry Organic Body reporting to the Commonwealth government. We are delighted to have them on board. Our first Winestate Organic competition began in 2014 where things where far more rudimentary than they are now. In 2016 we partnered with certifiers NASAA to be the promotional body for the export of Organic wines into China. We duly had meetings with the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, firstly in Adelaide, then Beijing. With the help of Austrade we signed the first “Free Trade” agreement between China and Australia with Winestate, NASAA and the Chinese Chamber of Commerce involved. At the time Ben Copeman was CEO of NASAA and is now CEO of SX Certified. Recently appointed Governor of South Australia, Frances Adamson, was in attendance as Australian Ambassador for China. After returning to Australia and taking a deep breath we decided that maybe it was not a good idea to announce that all Organic wines exported to China had to go through Winestate administration. We deduced quickly that this would be difficult for the freedom of the wineries, difficult for the country and ultimately difficult for us. This is the first time that we have brought this declined initiative out into the open. Instead of the aforementioned we decided to continue an annual Organic & Biodynamic judging with wineries free to enter or not and free to submit their wines in other tastings throughout the year. With the greatly expanded judging this year we feel we have made the right decision. With the marketplace showing great interest in sustainability and environmental responsibility this wine segment has great opportunity to grow and we are at the forefront of championing this movement. This year we saw a challenging but enjoyable struggle between the wines of the “New World” and “Old World,” and between regions and varietals, as it should be, to further the quality through competition. Our congratulations go to the Top Ten winners in each of the country categories and the winners of the three major awards; Organic Industries Australia (OIA) Best Wine of Show Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 Millesime Bio International Award for Best Organic or Biodynamic Wine Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 SX Certified Australia & New Zealand Organic or Biodynamic Award for wines from those two countries. Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019

theaward winners are... ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA “We are biodynamic farmers because we know it is better for our (OIA) BEST WINE OF SHOW soil, vineyards, employees and the flavour of our fruit,” says Owner and Winemaker of Gemtree, Mike Brown. Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 “Our organic and biodynamic credentials have roots as deep as our decades-old vines because we firmly believe it is our SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & responsibility to improve the land for future generations. Healthy NEW ZEALAND ORGANIC OR soils lead to a healthy ecosystem and that rewards both us and BIODYNAMIC AWARD you with the gems from which we craft our fine wines.” Gemtree Wines Obsidian The Obsidian Shiraz 2019 – Technical Details McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 “This shiraz is hand crafted, shows the typicity of our great quality vineyards and is nurtured so the purity of the fruit prevails, resulting 5 STA RS in a truly remarkable and polished wine. Our oak regime was judicious to showcase Gemtree’s provenance, and the outcome 98 is an elegant and pure shiraz. The Obsidian is a luxurious wine impeccably integrated and balanced that will reward you with POINTS mid – long term cellaring.” Site/location: “Production area 1ha of 120ha Altitude 150-180m Below left: Mike Brown of Gemtree Wines. Terroir Two geology formations: Kurrajong – clay sand and silica Below right: Mike and Melissa Brown of Gemtree cemented conglomerate, Piedmonte - red brown to chocolate Wines in the vineyard. brown clay and loams in the vineyard. Grapes are farmed organically and biodynamically, 100% hand harvested.” Vinification: “All fruit is hand harvested then destemmed.” Winemaking: “The whole berries are fermented on skins for seven days between 22 and 24 degrees Celsius, undergoing gentle cap management to extract pure fruit characters and tannins. Post fermentation the skins are hand dug out of the fermenter and the free run and pressings wines are separated before going straight to oak for maturation where they are racked and returned only once. After maturation the individual barrels are tasted before blending to select only those that truly demonstrate style and quality. Fining – no Filtration, – yes.” The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 93

theaward winners are... MILLESIME BIO INTERNATIONAL AWARD FOR Xavier Amirault & Nicolas Grosbois are the BEST ORGANIC OR BIODYNAMIC WINE founding partners of Famille Amirault-Grosbois, nestled between Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley and Chinon in the Loire Valley. The two cousins - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 combined their willingness to work together in 2008 to unite their know-how, each rich in a 4½ STARS centuries-old history, to propose their vision of wine: “organic wines, which respect the work of 96 people, the land and express their terroir.” This has been rewarded with the well-earned title of POINTS Millesime Bio Best International Wine 2021 in this competition Thomas Baillet, is their Vigneron Associé and Development Manager, in France commonly known as the Consultant Wine Director. Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 – Technical Details Terroir: “Clay and limestone soil. Vine Age: 35-40 Years Old. Vineyard: Right bank of the Vienne river near Chinon. Organic farming only and biodynamic preparations to energize the soil and organic livings (vines material, herbal preparations, Maria Thun 500 & 501 preparations).” Winemaking: “4 pillars: Handpicked-harvest, gravity (no pump is used), Indigenious yeast only to preserve the fruit expression, no other addition during vinification. Clarification after a nice infusion of the grapes for about twenty days. This allows a more complex but a still fruity aromatic. Ageing: The wine is matured for 10 months in concrete vats, Alcoholic degree 13.5%.” Grape varieties: 100% Cabernet Franc. Left: Thomas Baillet in the vineyard. ORGANIC CERTIFYING BODIES (NASAA) (SXC) Southern (ACO) Australian Bio Gro & Demeter Eco Cert European Qualite France CAECV CAECyL Cross Certified Certified Organic Bio Gro NZ Bio-Dynamic Union Organic Bureau Veritas (New Zealand) 94 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

218 TASTED 122 AWARDED ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Another most enjoyable judging of organic and biodynamic Moulin De La wines. That's not to say that our judges are easy or preferential Roque Domaine de when judging these wines. Quite the contrary in fact! As you can Nartette Bandol see in the results there is no quarter given and entrants have to Provence Blanc earn their stripes, as are all wines that are entered into Winestate 2020 HHH 91pts judgings. What we do see overall is a heightened level of fruit Lifted herbaceous quality, as expected, but sometimes let down by no intervention citrus aromatics of natural preservatives or too much reliance on wild yeast and subtle tinned natural fermentations where unwanted characters can occur if pineapple-like flavours. not careful. The judges tended to agree that \"fresh is best\" when $NA (Organic EU) buying organic or biodynamic wines. Great to see more and Horner Wines 'ASH' more wines here to choose from. Central Ranges Picpoul Blanc 2020 HHH 91pts Herbaceous aromas and a crunchy grassy-like fruit palate. Good use of phenolics. $35 (ACO) SPARKLING OTHER Tamburlaine Organic Krinklewood Broke Gemtree Wines WHITES Wines Reserve Fordwich Verdelho Small Batch 4 TASTED Hunter Semillon 2019 HHHH 94pts McLaren Flat 2 AWARDED 20 TASTED 2013 HHHHH 98pts Lively floral fragrances Marsanne 2020 12 AWARDED An excellent example of with a lemony lift. Fresh HHH 91pts Two good quaffers here an aged semillon. Has and crunchy on the Tropical and citrus fruit at a great price. “The best wines lovely toasty/creamy oak palate with green apple- nose with butterscotch here showed respect complexity to the nose like acidity. $30 (ACO) notes and a soft supple Born Wild Organic for the fruit with the and an amazing palate Mount Avoca Estate palate. $50 (ACO) South Australia varietal character at – delicious and still very Pyrenees Viognier Bodegas Neleman Brut Cuvee NV the forefront,” said youthful. $60 (SXC) 2019 HHHH 94pts Signature White HHH 91pts one judge. Quite a few Domaine Des An attractive, somewhat D.O Valencia Spain Bright fresh yeasty borderline wines here Hardieres Les Petits subdued, peachy/ White Blend aromatics with a fine making it an interesting Gars Anjou Blanc rose petal nose and a 2019 HHH 91pts bead and light sweet class with potential for Chenin 2019 varietally pure palate Almond meal/pear-like flavours. $14.99 (ACO) the future. HHHH 94pts with perfectly balanced nose and subtle creamy Subtle tropical/ flavours. $32.50 (ACO) peach palate with slight Charles Frey d'Arenberg The stonefruit nose with Tamburlaine Organic zestiness. $NA (Organic/ Cremant D'Alsace Money Spider slatey complexity and Wines Reserve CAECV) Extra Brut Alsace McLaren Vale full-bodied palate with Hunter (IC) Verdelho Brut 2018 Roussanne 2020 mouthwatering green 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts HHHHH 98pts melon flavours. $NA Citrus and fresh hay Fresh lifted, slightly Bright perfumed nose (AB Ecocert) on the nose with flinty, lemony nose and with lifted peach and complex fruit flavours a zesty complexity to gooseberry aromatics on a “playful” warming the lively palate. $NA and a perfect balance palate. $37 (SXC) (Organic EU & Demeter) between the acid and Robinvale Wines sweetness on the fleshy North West Victoria stonefruit palate. $21 Kerner 2015 (NASAA) HHH1/2 92pts Developed buttery/ toasty lime fragrances with aged peach/melon flavours but still has freshness. $20 (ACO) July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 95

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Laudum Nature SAUVIGNON Konrad Organic TOP 10 White Eco Macabeo BLANC Marlborough AUSTRALIAN 2019 HHH 90pts Sauvignon Blanc Spicy funky nose and 16 TASTED 2020 HHH1/2 92pts The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic light melon palate with 9 AWARDED Good varietal fruit wines as selected by highest judges firm phenolics. Good characters in the green scores are: food wine. €2.29 EU There were some good spectrum with nice (CAECV) examples here with acidity and steely ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA a good selection of minerality. $24.99 (OIA) BEST WINE IN SHOW AWARD VERDEJO both Kiwi and Aussie (BioGro NZ) examples. “Overall, SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & 4 TASTED the colours were very Settlers Ridge NEW ZEALAND AWARD 3 AWARDED good and there was a Organic Wines 1. Gemtree Wines Obsidian fine balance of drying Single Vineyard McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 An interesting flight of acid flavours,” said one Margaret River HHHHH 98pts (ACO) dry varietal whites, not judge. “The quality of Sauvignon Blanc to be confused with fruit was good with 2020 HHH 91pts 2. Stormflower Vineyard Single Vineyard verdelho in Australia sound winemaking,” said A bright somewhat Margaret River Wilyabrup which is a different another. green herbaceous nose Chardonnay 2020 grape variety altogether. with good green varietal HHHHH 98pts (SXC) These are more akin to Giesen Organic fruit. $23 (SXC/NASAA) aperitif high acid styles. Marlborough 3. d'Arenberg The Money Spider Sauvignon Blanc Greystone North McLaren Vale Roussanne 2020 Bodega Cuatro 2020 HHHH 94pts Canterbury HHHHH 98pts (NASAA) Rayas Cuatro Rayas A vibrant, somewhat Sauvignon Blanc Organic Collection austere, dry wine with 2019 HHH 91pts 4. Tamburlaine Organic Wines Reserve DO Rueda Spain hints of pineapples and Soft and unctuous with Hunter Semillon 2013 Verdejo 2020 pears underscored by nicely developing floral/ HHHHH 98pts (SXC) HHHH 94pts quite “prickly” acid. muscat varietal aromas Lovely integrated pear $22.99 (BioGro NZ) and flavours. $29 5. Z Wine [HILDER] Ancestor Vine and apple notes on the (Biogro NZ) Barossa Valley Mataro 2020 nose. A very varietal Mount Avoca Estate HHHH1/2 97pts (ACO) example of a verdejo Pyrenees Sauvignon Babich Family with delicious spicy Blanc 2020 Estates Single 6. Kalleske Old Vine zingy fruit. “Very good,” HHHH 94pts Vineyard Organic Barossa Valley Grenache 2019 commented one judge. A good seamlessly Marlborough HHHH1/2 96pts (SXC) $19.99 (CAECyL) balanced wine with lovely Sauvignon Blanc citrus/green pear fruit 2020 HHH 90pts 7. Zonte's Footstep Nature's Crux Bodega Cuatro showing a slight savoury A simple style with Fleurieu Shiraz 2020 Rayas Green & edge. $32.50 (ACO) light fruit aromas and HHHH1/2 96pts (ACO) Social DO Rueda pleasant dry white Spain Verdejo 2020 Clos Henri Estate flavours. Nice quaffer. 8. Gemtree Wines Uncut HHH1/2 93pts Marlborough $24.95 (BioGro NZ) McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 Herbaceous and Sauvignon Blanc HHHH1/2 95pts (ACO) passionfruit aromas 2019 HHHH 94pts Tamburlaine Organic to the fore with a nice Vibrant lifted grassy Wines Reserve 9. Grancari Estate Greta's depth of lovely even bouquet with botrytis- Orange Fumé Blanc McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 flavours on the palate like nuances and a broad 2019 HHH 90pts HHHH 95pts (ACO) and good acidity to back pear/kiwi fruit palate. An oak driven wine it. $11.99 (CAECyL) Maturing well. $34 that’s warm and mouth- 10. Grancari Estate McLaren Vale (BioGro NZ) filling with a good acid Grenache 2019 Bodega Cuatro finish. $37 (SXC) HHHH 95pts (ACO) Rayas Nave Sur Pogue Vineyard Organic DO Rueda Central Victoria PINOT GRIS/ 11. Zonte's Footstep Madrugador Spain Verdejo Sauvignon Blanc GRIGIO Fleurieu Tempranillo 2020 2020 HHH 91pts 2020 HHH1/2 92pts HHHH 95pts (ACO) Lovely, lifted spice on Clean gooseberry nose 8 TASTED the nose. Clean and with herbal notes and a 3 AWARDED vibrant in the glass with light, fresh and vibrant a nice crisp and clean kiwi fruit driven palate. A couple of good palate to follow suit. $20.60 (ACO) examples of both styles. $9.99 (CAECyL) “A few here that were not reviewed were either overdeveloped or showed excess extraction of skin characters,” noted one judge. 96 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting Tamburlaine Organic Stormflower Twisted Sticks Jacob's Creek Wines On The Vineyard Single Organic Riverland Natures Craft Grapevine Orange Vineyard Margaret Chardonnay 2020 Organic Australia (IC) Pinot Gris River Wilyabrup HHH 91pts Chardonnay 2020 HHHH 94pts Chardonnay A tight and lean early 2019 HHH 90pts Unctuous varietal 2020 HHHHH 98pts picked style – done well Fresh lifted crushed pear aromas and lovely Very pretty nose – – with nice racy acidity. aromas and a spicy oak weight of tropical fruit perfumed and floral. $24 (ACO) palate. Easy drinking! on the palate with soft Juicy in the mouth with Krinklewood $19.99 (ACO) acid. Very drinkable! upfront varietal fruit Broke Fordwich $24 (SXC) flavours, great line of Chardonnay ROSÉ acid, lovely spicy oak 2019 HHH 91pts Cape Jaffa En and a mouthwatering Lovely fruit here with a 17 TASTED Soleil Wrattonbully finish. $50 (SXC) slight green edge, some 9 AWARDED Pinot Gris 2020 Stoneleigh Organic classy oak and plenty of HHH1/2 92pts Marlborough acid. $35 (ACO) Fresh is best! “Some Simple and subtle slatey, Chardonnay Krinklewood lovely highlights here green apple/grapefruit 2020 HHHH 94pts Basket Press from the current and style. Plenty of personality Charry oak nose with Broke Fordwich 2020 wines,” said one and good sugar/acid lemon nuances and a Chardonnay judge. “Wineries should balance. $27 (ACO) creamy, complex, oak 2019 HHH 91pts stop focusing on colour driven palate. Nice Soft elegant style with and concentrate on Greystone North Macaw Creek quince/citrus flavours. lovely “open” flavour flavour and balance,” Canterbury Pinot Organic Mount Lofty $19.99 (Biogro NZ) profile and honeyed said another. Gris 2020 Ranges Riesling Domaine Tournon notes. $50 (ACO) HHH1/2 92pts 2019 HHHH 94pts Landsborough A riper honeydew Developing varietal Vineyard Pyrenees Giesen Single Domaine De Mayol melon style with a lifted bouquet and a good Chardonnay Vineyard Clayvin Oplezir Vallee Du fruit nose and nicely balance between the 2020 HHHH 94pts Marlborough Rhone Luberon balanced sweetness on white peach-like fruit and An interesting wine Chardonnay France Rosé 2020 the varietal palate. $29 the acidity. Drying finish. – a very attractive 2016 HHH 91pts HHHH 94pts (Biogro NZ) $19 (SXC) classic style with lifted Mature oaky wine but A sophisticated style URLAR Gladstone stonefruit characters still showing some with rose-petals and RIESLING Riesling 2018 and creamy oak. $30 honeyed white fruit strawberries lifting off HHH 90pts (NASAA) characters. $49.99 the nose and has a very 8 TASTED Melon skins integrate Rosily Vineyard (BioGro NZ) flavoursome palate. €4.5 3 AWARDED with hessian-like Reserve Margaret Rosily Vineyard EU (Qualite France ageing characters on River Chardonnay Margaret River Bureau Veritas) Many wines here the nose with mature 2020 HHHH 94pts Chardonnay Domaine Des lacked varietal character spicy fruit flavours. Complexity of new 2020 HHH 90pts Peirecedes Petit but there were a few $25 NZ (BioGro NZ) oak and stewed pear Obvious oak on the nose Bisou AOC Cotes highlights. fragrances. Creamy in with a huge mouthful of De Provence Rosé the mouth with perfect fruit flavours and high 2020 HHHH 94pts Konrad Dry CHARDONNAY balance of fruit, acid and acidity. $28 (ACO) Light savoury style Marlborough oak. $55 (ACO) Mount Avoca with spice and quince- Riesling 2017 12 TASTED Pogue Vineyard Estate Pyrenees like characters in the HHHH1/2 97pts 10 AWARDED Central Victoria Chardonnay background. Some A well-made wine with Chardonnay 2020 2020 HHH 90pts sweetness balanced a lively lychee and citrus A solid class of different HHH1/2 92pts A straightforward steely by the acid. $NA (AB bouquet and a very styles ranging from White peach varietal style with a perfumed Ecocert) attractive varietal fruit the buttery and oaky to aromas with a hint of nose and flavoursome palate with balancing the more austere acid oak. The palate is tight, fruit palate. $37.95 (ACO) acidity and lovely dominated ones. “The complex and perfectly complexity developing. key here was, as always, balanced. $20.60 (ACO) $24.99 (Biogro NZ) the balance between fruit, oak and acid.” JUDGES - DAY 1 Peter Simic Amelia Anspach Mike Brown Editor/publisher Winemaker at Angove Owner, managing Winestate Magazine. Family Winemakers. director, chief More than 35 years’ Previously vintaged winemaker and bio- experience in the wine with Cape Mentelle dynamic farmer of industry. Formerly and overseas with Gemtree Wines. A founding publisher of Domaine Chandon leader in sustainable the first US colour wine (Argentina), Domaine winemaking. magazine, manager of Serenc (California) and the SA Wine Information Kendermanne (Mosel). Bureau, and wine Associate judge at educator with Regency Riverland, Rutherglen College, in SA. and Cowra wine shows. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 97

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Kalleske Rosina Domaine Des Villa Maria Earth Domaine Sloneleigh Organic Barossa Valley Rosé Peirecedes Chateau Garden Hawkes Bay Changarnier Marlborough 2021 HHHH 94pts La Tulipe Noire AOC NZ Rosé 2020 Monthelie 1er Cru Pinot Noir 2020 Very pretty lifted dusty Cotes De Provence HHH 90pts Rouge \"Les Clous\" HHH 91pts pink wine with lots of Rosé 2020 Red cherry bouquet Burgundy France Forest floor/mixed berry fresh red cherry and HHH 91pts with a grassy edge and Pinot Noir 2019 bouquet and good depth strawberry fruit. “A fun Pungent strawberry soft fruit driven palate HHHH1/2 96pts of earthy/black cherry style!” $22 (SXC) aromas and light bodied with savoury notes. $23 Lovely purple hue with flavours. $19.99 Domaine d'Eole savoury palate. Be great (BioGro NZ) delightful brambly/ (BioGro NZ) Provence AOP D'Aix on a hot day! $NA (AB earthy varietal density Villa Maria En Provence France Ecocert) PINOT NOIR to the nose. Soft in the Earth Garden Rosé 2020 Pogue Vineyard mouth with “bouncy” Marlborough, NZ HHHH 94pts Central Victoria 13 TASTED red cherry flavours and Pinot Noir 2019 Creamy strawberry Rosé 2020 10 AWARDED balancing acid. $50 HHH 91pts driven nose with good HHH 91pts (Organic EU) Lifted peppery plum fruit sweetness on the A well made, consumer Strong consistent class Ara Resolute nose and subtle creamy palate with lively friendly wine that’s all with overall varietal Marlborough mintiness to the acidity. $NA (EcoCert) strawberries and cream! character. “Good to see Pinot Noir 2017 black fruit palate. $25 Domaine Des $20.60 (ACO) a range of French, Kiwi HHH1/2 93pts (BioGro NZ) Peirecedes Rigue Moulin De La Roque and Australian pinot in Interesting wine; lovely Greystone Des Botes Le Fil Hautes Terres Bandol this line-up,” noted one creaminess. Quite dusty Thomas Brothers d'Ariane AOC Provence Rosé judge. “Overall, these aromas with a soft, North Canterbury Cotes De Provence 2020 HHH 90pts were clean and fault free pretty, balanced palate. Pinot Noir 2018 Pierrefeu Rosé Funky spicy notes with appropriate use of $39.99 (BioGro NZ) HHH 91pts 2020 HHH 91pts to the nose and good quality oak.” Giesen Organic Very Burgundian – very Subtle sweet strawberry generous full flavoured Marlborough Pinot varietal – all cherries, fragrances and nicely strawberry and cream Noir 2019 forest floor, herbs and textured palate with palate. $NA (Organic HHH1/2 92pts spices. $99 (Biogro NZ) fresh lifted flavours. $NA EU) Super varietal (AB Ecocert) expression with ripe fruit fragrances and fresh fruit driven palate. Still very youthful. $39.99 (BioGro NZ) 98 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting Giesen Single OTHER RED Famille Amirault- Tamburlaine Organic 919 Reserve Vineyard Ridge VARIETALS & Grosbois Le Bourg Wines Point65 Riverland Touriga Block Marlborough BLENDS Loire Valley - AOP Orange Malbec Nacional 2018 Pinot Noir 2016 Chinon France 2018 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 93pts HHH 91pts 32 TASTED Cabernet Franc 2020 A solid wine with nice Spicy on nose and Nicely matured pinot 20 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts balance between cigar palate with great purple with tarry/molasses A very strong and Dense purple with box oak, ripe cherry fruit, fruit characters, hints characters, fine tannins consistent class with herbal/plum aromas and chocolate notes and of oak and angular and a creamy finish. a widespread range of varietally pure, medium leafy nuances. $30 (SXC) tannins. $42 (SXC) $49.99 (BioGro NZ) varietals and styles. “On bodied, palate with Argento Estate Gemtree Wines Giesen Single the whole winemakers confectionery characters, Reserve (Agrelo The Phantom Red Vineyard Clayvin respected the varietal powerful tannins and Luján de Cuyo and Blend Ten McLaren Marlborough characters of the fresh line of acid. $39.99 Paraje Altamira) Flat Red Blend Pinot Noir 2016 wines,” said one judge. (Ecocert, Demeter) Mendoza Malbec 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts “These tended to be Domaine De Mayol 2018 HHHH 94pts Intriguing spicy fruit Earthy brambly nose fruit forward wines with Tentations Vallee A big gutsy wine with nose with nice soft and velvety palate with appropriate use of oak.” Du Rhone Luberon earthy/beetroot-like plum/red berry palate nice spicy red berry/ France Rouge 2020 aromas and lovely fruit and some obvious cherry flavours. $49.99 Z Wine [HILDER] HHHH1/2 96pts sweetness on the tannins. $60 (ACO) (BioGro NZ) Ancestor Vine Brilliant purple colour mid palate. Excellent Cigalus Rouge IGP Greystone Barossa Valley with super bright spicy tannins. $34 (Organic Aude Hauterive North Canterbury Mataro 2020 cherry aromatics. Very Grapes Argentina | Veg France Red Blend Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 97pts upfront sweet fruit Argentina Vegan LIAF 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 90pts Good varietal fruit lift flavours with a solid Control | BDA Certified Brooding oaky nose and Bright complex oak to the nose, all spicy tannin structure. Be Sustainability) a savoury palate with driven wine with lovely and grape-like with great with an antipasto Tamburlaine Organic Ribena-like characters freshness of berry fruit. an excellent depth of plate. €4.5 EU (Qualite Wines Reserve and plenty of oak. $65 $45 (Biogro NZ) jubey fruit on the palate France Bureau Veritas) Orange Malbec (Demeter) Domaine laced with solid chewy Laudum Roble 2018 HHHH 94pts Z Wine [HILDER] Changarnier tannins. $300 (ACO) Monastrell A solid inky style with Ancestor Vine Monthelie 1er Cru Syrah 2019 power and delicacy. Great Barossa Valley Rouge \"Champs- HHHH1/2 96pts palate structure, berry Mataro 2018 Fulliot\" Burgundy Nose of fragrant fruit flavours and velvety HHH1/2 92pts France Pinot Noir perfumed fruit with a tannins. $80 (SXC) Intense beetroot/cassis 2019 HHH 90pts nice cured meat/savoury Famille Amirault- aromas and ripe sweet More of a savoury style, element. An oak focused Grosbois La Butte fruit palate with lovely great structure and nice palate with mouth aux Anes Organic tannin structure. $300 intensity of cherry/berry puckering tannins. Loire Valley France (ACO) fruit. $60 (Organic EU) Needs time to settle. Cabernet Franc Famille Amirault- €3.49 EU (CAECV) 2020 HHH1/2 93pts Grosbois Les Château Mourgues Exciting jubey perfumed Arpents Organic du Grès Galets fruit fragrances and a Loire Valley - AOP Rouges Costieres very delicate purple fruit Saint-Nicolas de De Nimes France driven palate. $24.50 Bourgueil France Red Blend 2019 (Ecocert, Demeter) Cabernet Franc HHHH 94pts Z Wine [HILDER] 2020 HHH 91pts A delicious Ancestor Vine Soft easy drinking uncomplicated style Barossa Valley style with musky/spicy with loads of character. Mataro 2019 bouquet and cassis/ Spicy leafy nose and HHH1/2 93pts Ribena flavours. $30.60 fresh dark fruit flavours Light jubey fruit bouquet (Ecocert, Demeter) €8.6 EU (EcoCert) and lovely richness of ripe berry fruit flavours with subtle us of oak. $300 (ACO) JUDGES - DAY 2 Mike Brown Amelia Anspach Troy Kalleske Owner, managing Winemaker at Angove Winemaker and co-owner director, chief Family Winemakers. of Kalleske Wines. winemaker and bio- Previously vintaged Previously with Southcorp dynamic farmer of with Cape Mentelle Group, including Gemtree Wines. A and overseas with Penfolds, Seppelt and leader in sustainable Domaine Chandon Lindemans. Also vintaged winemaking. (Argentina), Domaine with Kendall Jackson in Serenc (California) and California. Kendermanne (Mosel). Associate judge at Riverland, Rutherglen and Cowra wine shows. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 99

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Bodegas Corral TOP 10 Los Corrales De ITALY & SPAIN Moncalvillo Red Maturana D.O.CA. The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic Rioja Red Blend wines as selected by highest judges 2018 HHH 91pts scores are: Nutty oaky aromas with a very oaky/powerful fruit 1. Laudum Roble palate. Needs red meat! Monastrell Syrah 2019 $21.30 (Organic EU) HHHH1/2 96pts (CAECV) Whistling Kite 2. Bodegas Neleman 30 Wishes Biodynamic ECCV Valencia Spain Tempranillo 2019 Riverland Mencia HHHH 94pts (Organic/CAECV) 2019 HHH 91pts Nutty, earthy and inky 3. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Cuatro Rayas nose and soft red fruit Organic Collection DO palate; some leafy Rueda Spain Verdejo 2020 notes. $35 (ACO) HHHH 94pts (CAECyL) 919 Reserve Zonte's Footstep Bodegas Neleman 4. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Nave Sur Riverland Madrugador Fleurieu 30 Wishes ECCV Organic DO Rueda Spain Sangiovese Tempranillo 2020 Valencia Spain Tempranillo 2019 2018 HHH 91pts HHHH 95pts Tempranillo 2019 HHHH 94pts (CAECyL) Spicy oak aromas and Beautiful dense purple HHHH 94pts flavours with some red wine with attractive Youthful vibrant purple 5. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Green & Social cherry fruit and fine red varietal fruits, slight wine with subtle DO Rueda Spain Verdejo 2020 tannins. $38 (SXC) confectionery notes and savoury oak and nice HHH1/2 93pts (CAECyL) dusty tannins. $35 (ACO) tannin structure. $NA Cascina Vèngore Bodega Cuatro (Organic/CAECV) 6. Bodegas Neleman Signature White Campolungo Rayas Nave Sur D.O Valencia Spain White Blend 2019 Barbera D'Asti Organic DO Rueda Bodega Cuatro HHH 91pts (Organic/CAECV) DOCG Italy Barbera Spain Tempranillo Rayas Cuatro Rayas 2020 HHH 90pts 2019 HHHH 94pts Organic DO Rueda 7. Laudum Nature Red Eco Dark fruit fragrances Dense crimson plum and Spain Tempranillo Tempranillo Blend 2019 with menthol nuances rich cherries and spice. 2019 HHH1/2 93pts HHH 91pts (CAECV) and fruit and nut Very clean, long, rich and Bright vibrant mid- chocolate bar flavours. ripe palate with a lovely crimson hues. Subdued 8. Bodegas Corral Vine Roots $NA (Organic EU) depth of vibrant fresh savoury aromas with Red Graciano D.O.CA. young fruit and well- generous soft fruit and Rioja Graciano 2018 Bodegas Corral Vine balanced oak. $9.99 savoury chewy tannins. HHH 90Pts (Organic EU) Roots Red Graciano (CAECyL) $18.95 (CAECyL) D.O.CA. Rioja Mount Avoca 9. Cascina Vèngore Campolungo Graciano 2018 Estate Pyrenees Laudum Nature Red Barbera D'Asti DOCG HHH 90pts Tempranillo 2019 Eco Tempranillo Italy Barbera 2020 Cherry fruit freshness HHHH 94pts Blend 2019 HHH 90pts (Organic EU) to the nose with Inviting candied spicy HHH 91pts leathery notes and a bouquet and beautiful Soft bright medium 10. Laudum Nature White Eco high acid palate. $21.30 plush and juicy fruit bodied wine with Macabeo 2019 (Organic EU) flavours nicely balanced brightness and good HHH 90pts (CAECV) by the acid. $32.50 (ACO) drinkability. €2.29 EU TEMPRANILLO (CAECV) 7 TASTED GRENACHE & 6 AWARDED BLENDS Great to see a line-up 6 TASTED of both Spanish and 4 AWARDED Australian tempranillo in the group with the best Some well-made wines varietal versions coming ranging from youthful to the fore. and vibrant to powerful and traditional. 100 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021