Wine & Spirit Insider July August 2021

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND July/August 2021 Issue 173 Australia & New Zealand THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE INTERNATIONAL LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. CERTIFIED Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 organic & Biodynamic WINE AWARDS™ 2021 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

Australia & New Zealand WELCOME to our annual Winestate Organic & Biodynamic wine show awards. This year with additional entries from Europe we INTERNATIONAL have expanded the title to include “International” in the name as CERTIFIED we welcome more wines from France, Italy and Spain to join us in this fascinating journey. With the help of our European partners organic Millesime Bio, who are the world’s biggest promoter of Organic wines we are proud to be part of the push for cleaner, greener & Biodynamic fruit and for less or no chemicals in the winemaking phase. This WINE AWARDS™ 2021 year we also welcome (OIA) Organic Industries Australia as the overall sponsor of our major trophy for Best Wine of Show. OIA are 92 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER the peak industry Organic Body reporting to the Commonwealth government. We are delighted to have them on board. Our first Winestate Organic competition began in 2014 where things where far more rudimentary than they are now. In 2016 we partnered with certifiers NASAA to be the promotional body for the export of Organic wines into China. We duly had meetings with the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, firstly in Adelaide, then Beijing. With the help of Austrade we signed the first “Free Trade” agreement between China and Australia with Winestate, NASAA and the Chinese Chamber of Commerce involved. At the time Ben Copeman was CEO of NASAA and is now CEO of SX Certified. Recently appointed Governor of South Australia, Frances Adamson, was in attendance as Australian Ambassador for China. After returning to Australia and taking a deep breath we decided that maybe it was not a good idea to announce that all Organic wines exported to China had to go through Winestate administration. We deduced quickly that this would be difficult for the freedom of the wineries, difficult for the country and ultimately difficult for us. This is the first time that we have brought this declined initiative out into the open. Instead of the aforementioned we decided to continue an annual Organic & Biodynamic judging with wineries free to enter or not and free to submit their wines in other tastings throughout the year. With the greatly expanded judging this year we feel we have made the right decision. With the marketplace showing great interest in sustainability and environmental responsibility this wine segment has great opportunity to grow and we are at the forefront of championing this movement. This year we saw a challenging but enjoyable struggle between the wines of the “New World” and “Old World,” and between regions and varietals, as it should be, to further the quality through competition. Our congratulations go to the Top Ten winners in each of the country categories and the winners of the three major awards; Organic Industries Australia (OIA) Best Wine of Show Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 Millesime Bio International Award for Best Organic or Biodynamic Wine Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 SX Certified Australia & New Zealand Organic or Biodynamic Award for wines from those two countries. Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019

theaward winners are... ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA “We are biodynamic farmers because we know it is better for our (OIA) BEST WINE OF SHOW soil, vineyards, employees and the flavour of our fruit,” says Owner and Winemaker of Gemtree, Mike Brown. Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 “Our organic and biodynamic credentials have roots as deep as our decades-old vines because we firmly believe it is our SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & responsibility to improve the land for future generations. Healthy NEW ZEALAND ORGANIC OR soils lead to a healthy ecosystem and that rewards both us and BIODYNAMIC AWARD you with the gems from which we craft our fine wines.” Gemtree Wines Obsidian The Obsidian Shiraz 2019 – Technical Details McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 “This shiraz is hand crafted, shows the typicity of our great quality vineyards and is nurtured so the purity of the fruit prevails, resulting 5 STA RS in a truly remarkable and polished wine. Our oak regime was judicious to showcase Gemtree’s provenance, and the outcome 98 is an elegant and pure shiraz. The Obsidian is a luxurious wine impeccably integrated and balanced that will reward you with POINTS mid – long term cellaring.” Site/location: “Production area 1ha of 120ha Altitude 150-180m Below left: Mike Brown of Gemtree Wines. Terroir Two geology formations: Kurrajong – clay sand and silica Below right: Mike and Melissa Brown of Gemtree cemented conglomerate, Piedmonte - red brown to chocolate Wines in the vineyard. brown clay and loams in the vineyard. Grapes are farmed organically and biodynamically, 100% hand harvested.” Vinification: “All fruit is hand harvested then destemmed.” Winemaking: “The whole berries are fermented on skins for seven days between 22 and 24 degrees Celsius, undergoing gentle cap management to extract pure fruit characters and tannins. Post fermentation the skins are hand dug out of the fermenter and the free run and pressings wines are separated before going straight to oak for maturation where they are racked and returned only once. After maturation the individual barrels are tasted before blending to select only those that truly demonstrate style and quality. Fining – no Filtration, – yes.” The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 93

theaward winners are... MILLESIME BIO INTERNATIONAL AWARD FOR Xavier Amirault & Nicolas Grosbois are the BEST ORGANIC OR BIODYNAMIC WINE founding partners of Famille Amirault-Grosbois, nestled between Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley and Chinon in the Loire Valley. The two cousins - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 combined their willingness to work together in 2008 to unite their know-how, each rich in a 4½ STARS centuries-old history, to propose their vision of wine: “organic wines, which respect the work of 96 people, the land and express their terroir.” This has been rewarded with the well-earned title of POINTS Millesime Bio Best International Wine 2021 in this competition Thomas Baillet, is their Vigneron Associé and Development Manager, in France commonly known as the Consultant Wine Director. Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 – Technical Details Terroir: “Clay and limestone soil. Vine Age: 35-40 Years Old. Vineyard: Right bank of the Vienne river near Chinon. Organic farming only and biodynamic preparations to energize the soil and organic livings (vines material, herbal preparations, Maria Thun 500 & 501 preparations).” Winemaking: “4 pillars: Handpicked-harvest, gravity (no pump is used), Indigenious yeast only to preserve the fruit expression, no other addition during vinification. Clarification after a nice infusion of the grapes for about twenty days. This allows a more complex but a still fruity aromatic. Ageing: The wine is matured for 10 months in concrete vats, Alcoholic degree 13.5%.” Grape varieties: 100% Cabernet Franc. Left: Thomas Baillet in the vineyard. ORGANIC CERTIFYING BODIES (NASAA) (SXC) Southern (ACO) Australian Bio Gro & Demeter Eco Cert European Qualite France CAECV CAECyL Cross Certified Certified Organic Bio Gro NZ Bio-Dynamic Union Organic Bureau Veritas (New Zealand) 94 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

218 TASTED 122 AWARDED ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Another most enjoyable judging of organic and biodynamic Moulin De La wines. That's not to say that our judges are easy or preferential Roque Domaine de when judging these wines. Quite the contrary in fact! As you can Nartette Bandol see in the results there is no quarter given and entrants have to Provence Blanc earn their stripes, as are all wines that are entered into Winestate 2020 HHH 91pts judgings. What we do see overall is a heightened level of fruit Lifted herbaceous quality, as expected, but sometimes let down by no intervention citrus aromatics of natural preservatives or too much reliance on wild yeast and subtle tinned natural fermentations where unwanted characters can occur if pineapple-like flavours. not careful. The judges tended to agree that \"fresh is best\" when $NA (Organic EU) buying organic or biodynamic wines. Great to see more and Horner Wines 'ASH' more wines here to choose from. Central Ranges Picpoul Blanc 2020 HHH 91pts Herbaceous aromas and a crunchy grassy-like fruit palate. Good use of phenolics. $35 (ACO) SPARKLING OTHER Tamburlaine Organic Krinklewood Broke Gemtree Wines WHITES Wines Reserve Fordwich Verdelho Small Batch 4 TASTED Hunter Semillon 2019 HHHH 94pts McLaren Flat 2 AWARDED 20 TASTED 2013 HHHHH 98pts Lively floral fragrances Marsanne 2020 12 AWARDED An excellent example of with a lemony lift. Fresh HHH 91pts Two good quaffers here an aged semillon. Has and crunchy on the Tropical and citrus fruit at a great price. “The best wines lovely toasty/creamy oak palate with green apple- nose with butterscotch here showed respect complexity to the nose like acidity. $30 (ACO) notes and a soft supple Born Wild Organic for the fruit with the and an amazing palate Mount Avoca Estate palate. $50 (ACO) South Australia varietal character at – delicious and still very Pyrenees Viognier Bodegas Neleman Brut Cuvee NV the forefront,” said youthful. $60 (SXC) 2019 HHHH 94pts Signature White HHH 91pts one judge. Quite a few Domaine Des An attractive, somewhat D.O Valencia Spain Bright fresh yeasty borderline wines here Hardieres Les Petits subdued, peachy/ White Blend aromatics with a fine making it an interesting Gars Anjou Blanc rose petal nose and a 2019 HHH 91pts bead and light sweet class with potential for Chenin 2019 varietally pure palate Almond meal/pear-like flavours. $14.99 (ACO) the future. HHHH 94pts with perfectly balanced nose and subtle creamy Subtle tropical/ flavours. $32.50 (ACO) peach palate with slight Charles Frey d'Arenberg The stonefruit nose with Tamburlaine Organic zestiness. $NA (Organic/ Cremant D'Alsace Money Spider slatey complexity and Wines Reserve CAECV) Extra Brut Alsace McLaren Vale full-bodied palate with Hunter (IC) Verdelho Brut 2018 Roussanne 2020 mouthwatering green 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts HHHHH 98pts melon flavours. $NA Citrus and fresh hay Fresh lifted, slightly Bright perfumed nose (AB Ecocert) on the nose with flinty, lemony nose and with lifted peach and complex fruit flavours a zesty complexity to gooseberry aromatics on a “playful” warming the lively palate. $NA and a perfect balance palate. $37 (SXC) (Organic EU & Demeter) between the acid and Robinvale Wines sweetness on the fleshy North West Victoria stonefruit palate. $21 Kerner 2015 (NASAA) HHH1/2 92pts Developed buttery/ toasty lime fragrances with aged peach/melon flavours but still has freshness. $20 (ACO) July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 95

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Laudum Nature SAUVIGNON Konrad Organic TOP 10 White Eco Macabeo BLANC Marlborough AUSTRALIAN 2019 HHH 90pts Sauvignon Blanc Spicy funky nose and 16 TASTED 2020 HHH1/2 92pts The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic light melon palate with 9 AWARDED Good varietal fruit wines as selected by highest judges firm phenolics. Good characters in the green scores are: food wine. €2.29 EU There were some good spectrum with nice (CAECV) examples here with acidity and steely ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA a good selection of minerality. $24.99 (OIA) BEST WINE IN SHOW AWARD VERDEJO both Kiwi and Aussie (BioGro NZ) examples. “Overall, SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & 4 TASTED the colours were very Settlers Ridge NEW ZEALAND AWARD 3 AWARDED good and there was a Organic Wines 1. Gemtree Wines Obsidian fine balance of drying Single Vineyard McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 An interesting flight of acid flavours,” said one Margaret River HHHHH 98pts (ACO) dry varietal whites, not judge. “The quality of Sauvignon Blanc to be confused with fruit was good with 2020 HHH 91pts 2. Stormflower Vineyard Single Vineyard verdelho in Australia sound winemaking,” said A bright somewhat Margaret River Wilyabrup which is a different another. green herbaceous nose Chardonnay 2020 grape variety altogether. with good green varietal HHHHH 98pts (SXC) These are more akin to Giesen Organic fruit. $23 (SXC/NASAA) aperitif high acid styles. Marlborough 3. d'Arenberg The Money Spider Sauvignon Blanc Greystone North McLaren Vale Roussanne 2020 Bodega Cuatro 2020 HHHH 94pts Canterbury HHHHH 98pts (NASAA) Rayas Cuatro Rayas A vibrant, somewhat Sauvignon Blanc Organic Collection austere, dry wine with 2019 HHH 91pts 4. Tamburlaine Organic Wines Reserve DO Rueda Spain hints of pineapples and Soft and unctuous with Hunter Semillon 2013 Verdejo 2020 pears underscored by nicely developing floral/ HHHHH 98pts (SXC) HHHH 94pts quite “prickly” acid. muscat varietal aromas Lovely integrated pear $22.99 (BioGro NZ) and flavours. $29 5. Z Wine [HILDER] Ancestor Vine and apple notes on the (Biogro NZ) Barossa Valley Mataro 2020 nose. A very varietal Mount Avoca Estate HHHH1/2 97pts (ACO) example of a verdejo Pyrenees Sauvignon Babich Family with delicious spicy Blanc 2020 Estates Single 6. Kalleske Old Vine zingy fruit. “Very good,” HHHH 94pts Vineyard Organic Barossa Valley Grenache 2019 commented one judge. A good seamlessly Marlborough HHHH1/2 96pts (SXC) $19.99 (CAECyL) balanced wine with lovely Sauvignon Blanc citrus/green pear fruit 2020 HHH 90pts 7. Zonte's Footstep Nature's Crux Bodega Cuatro showing a slight savoury A simple style with Fleurieu Shiraz 2020 Rayas Green & edge. $32.50 (ACO) light fruit aromas and HHHH1/2 96pts (ACO) Social DO Rueda pleasant dry white Spain Verdejo 2020 Clos Henri Estate flavours. Nice quaffer. 8. Gemtree Wines Uncut HHH1/2 93pts Marlborough $24.95 (BioGro NZ) McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 Herbaceous and Sauvignon Blanc HHHH1/2 95pts (ACO) passionfruit aromas 2019 HHHH 94pts Tamburlaine Organic to the fore with a nice Vibrant lifted grassy Wines Reserve 9. Grancari Estate Greta's depth of lovely even bouquet with botrytis- Orange Fumé Blanc McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 flavours on the palate like nuances and a broad 2019 HHH 90pts HHHH 95pts (ACO) and good acidity to back pear/kiwi fruit palate. An oak driven wine it. $11.99 (CAECyL) Maturing well. $34 that’s warm and mouth- 10. Grancari Estate McLaren Vale (BioGro NZ) filling with a good acid Grenache 2019 Bodega Cuatro finish. $37 (SXC) HHHH 95pts (ACO) Rayas Nave Sur Pogue Vineyard Organic DO Rueda Central Victoria PINOT GRIS/ 11. Zonte's Footstep Madrugador Spain Verdejo Sauvignon Blanc GRIGIO Fleurieu Tempranillo 2020 2020 HHH 91pts 2020 HHH1/2 92pts HHHH 95pts (ACO) Lovely, lifted spice on Clean gooseberry nose 8 TASTED the nose. Clean and with herbal notes and a 3 AWARDED vibrant in the glass with light, fresh and vibrant a nice crisp and clean kiwi fruit driven palate. A couple of good palate to follow suit. $20.60 (ACO) examples of both styles. $9.99 (CAECyL) “A few here that were not reviewed were either overdeveloped or showed excess extraction of skin characters,” noted one judge. 96 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting Tamburlaine Organic Stormflower Twisted Sticks Jacob's Creek Wines On The Vineyard Single Organic Riverland Natures Craft Grapevine Orange Vineyard Margaret Chardonnay 2020 Organic Australia (IC) Pinot Gris River Wilyabrup HHH 91pts Chardonnay 2020 HHHH 94pts Chardonnay A tight and lean early 2019 HHH 90pts Unctuous varietal 2020 HHHHH 98pts picked style – done well Fresh lifted crushed pear aromas and lovely Very pretty nose – – with nice racy acidity. aromas and a spicy oak weight of tropical fruit perfumed and floral. $24 (ACO) palate. Easy drinking! on the palate with soft Juicy in the mouth with Krinklewood $19.99 (ACO) acid. Very drinkable! upfront varietal fruit Broke Fordwich $24 (SXC) flavours, great line of Chardonnay ROSÉ acid, lovely spicy oak 2019 HHH 91pts Cape Jaffa En and a mouthwatering Lovely fruit here with a 17 TASTED Soleil Wrattonbully finish. $50 (SXC) slight green edge, some 9 AWARDED Pinot Gris 2020 Stoneleigh Organic classy oak and plenty of HHH1/2 92pts Marlborough acid. $35 (ACO) Fresh is best! “Some Simple and subtle slatey, Chardonnay Krinklewood lovely highlights here green apple/grapefruit 2020 HHHH 94pts Basket Press from the current and style. Plenty of personality Charry oak nose with Broke Fordwich 2020 wines,” said one and good sugar/acid lemon nuances and a Chardonnay judge. “Wineries should balance. $27 (ACO) creamy, complex, oak 2019 HHH 91pts stop focusing on colour driven palate. Nice Soft elegant style with and concentrate on Greystone North Macaw Creek quince/citrus flavours. lovely “open” flavour flavour and balance,” Canterbury Pinot Organic Mount Lofty $19.99 (Biogro NZ) profile and honeyed said another. Gris 2020 Ranges Riesling Domaine Tournon notes. $50 (ACO) HHH1/2 92pts 2019 HHHH 94pts Landsborough A riper honeydew Developing varietal Vineyard Pyrenees Giesen Single Domaine De Mayol melon style with a lifted bouquet and a good Chardonnay Vineyard Clayvin Oplezir Vallee Du fruit nose and nicely balance between the 2020 HHHH 94pts Marlborough Rhone Luberon balanced sweetness on white peach-like fruit and An interesting wine Chardonnay France Rosé 2020 the varietal palate. $29 the acidity. Drying finish. – a very attractive 2016 HHH 91pts HHHH 94pts (Biogro NZ) $19 (SXC) classic style with lifted Mature oaky wine but A sophisticated style URLAR Gladstone stonefruit characters still showing some with rose-petals and RIESLING Riesling 2018 and creamy oak. $30 honeyed white fruit strawberries lifting off HHH 90pts (NASAA) characters. $49.99 the nose and has a very 8 TASTED Melon skins integrate Rosily Vineyard (BioGro NZ) flavoursome palate. €4.5 3 AWARDED with hessian-like Reserve Margaret Rosily Vineyard EU (Qualite France ageing characters on River Chardonnay Margaret River Bureau Veritas) Many wines here the nose with mature 2020 HHHH 94pts Chardonnay Domaine Des lacked varietal character spicy fruit flavours. Complexity of new 2020 HHH 90pts Peirecedes Petit but there were a few $25 NZ (BioGro NZ) oak and stewed pear Obvious oak on the nose Bisou AOC Cotes highlights. fragrances. Creamy in with a huge mouthful of De Provence Rosé the mouth with perfect fruit flavours and high 2020 HHHH 94pts Konrad Dry CHARDONNAY balance of fruit, acid and acidity. $28 (ACO) Light savoury style Marlborough oak. $55 (ACO) Mount Avoca with spice and quince- Riesling 2017 12 TASTED Pogue Vineyard Estate Pyrenees like characters in the HHHH1/2 97pts 10 AWARDED Central Victoria Chardonnay background. Some A well-made wine with Chardonnay 2020 2020 HHH 90pts sweetness balanced a lively lychee and citrus A solid class of different HHH1/2 92pts A straightforward steely by the acid. $NA (AB bouquet and a very styles ranging from White peach varietal style with a perfumed Ecocert) attractive varietal fruit the buttery and oaky to aromas with a hint of nose and flavoursome palate with balancing the more austere acid oak. The palate is tight, fruit palate. $37.95 (ACO) acidity and lovely dominated ones. “The complex and perfectly complexity developing. key here was, as always, balanced. $20.60 (ACO) $24.99 (Biogro NZ) the balance between fruit, oak and acid.” JUDGES - DAY 1 Peter Simic Amelia Anspach Mike Brown Editor/publisher Winemaker at Angove Owner, managing Winestate Magazine. Family Winemakers. director, chief More than 35 years’ Previously vintaged winemaker and bio- experience in the wine with Cape Mentelle dynamic farmer of industry. Formerly and overseas with Gemtree Wines. A founding publisher of Domaine Chandon leader in sustainable the first US colour wine (Argentina), Domaine winemaking. magazine, manager of Serenc (California) and the SA Wine Information Kendermanne (Mosel). Bureau, and wine Associate judge at educator with Regency Riverland, Rutherglen College, in SA. and Cowra wine shows. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 97

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Kalleske Rosina Domaine Des Villa Maria Earth Domaine Sloneleigh Organic Barossa Valley Rosé Peirecedes Chateau Garden Hawkes Bay Changarnier Marlborough 2021 HHHH 94pts La Tulipe Noire AOC NZ Rosé 2020 Monthelie 1er Cru Pinot Noir 2020 Very pretty lifted dusty Cotes De Provence HHH 90pts Rouge \"Les Clous\" HHH 91pts pink wine with lots of Rosé 2020 Red cherry bouquet Burgundy France Forest floor/mixed berry fresh red cherry and HHH 91pts with a grassy edge and Pinot Noir 2019 bouquet and good depth strawberry fruit. “A fun Pungent strawberry soft fruit driven palate HHHH1/2 96pts of earthy/black cherry style!” $22 (SXC) aromas and light bodied with savoury notes. $23 Lovely purple hue with flavours. $19.99 Domaine d'Eole savoury palate. Be great (BioGro NZ) delightful brambly/ (BioGro NZ) Provence AOP D'Aix on a hot day! $NA (AB earthy varietal density Villa Maria En Provence France Ecocert) PINOT NOIR to the nose. Soft in the Earth Garden Rosé 2020 Pogue Vineyard mouth with “bouncy” Marlborough, NZ HHHH 94pts Central Victoria 13 TASTED red cherry flavours and Pinot Noir 2019 Creamy strawberry Rosé 2020 10 AWARDED balancing acid. $50 HHH 91pts driven nose with good HHH 91pts (Organic EU) Lifted peppery plum fruit sweetness on the A well made, consumer Strong consistent class Ara Resolute nose and subtle creamy palate with lively friendly wine that’s all with overall varietal Marlborough mintiness to the acidity. $NA (EcoCert) strawberries and cream! character. “Good to see Pinot Noir 2017 black fruit palate. $25 Domaine Des $20.60 (ACO) a range of French, Kiwi HHH1/2 93pts (BioGro NZ) Peirecedes Rigue Moulin De La Roque and Australian pinot in Interesting wine; lovely Greystone Des Botes Le Fil Hautes Terres Bandol this line-up,” noted one creaminess. Quite dusty Thomas Brothers d'Ariane AOC Provence Rosé judge. “Overall, these aromas with a soft, North Canterbury Cotes De Provence 2020 HHH 90pts were clean and fault free pretty, balanced palate. Pinot Noir 2018 Pierrefeu Rosé Funky spicy notes with appropriate use of $39.99 (BioGro NZ) HHH 91pts 2020 HHH 91pts to the nose and good quality oak.” Giesen Organic Very Burgundian – very Subtle sweet strawberry generous full flavoured Marlborough Pinot varietal – all cherries, fragrances and nicely strawberry and cream Noir 2019 forest floor, herbs and textured palate with palate. $NA (Organic HHH1/2 92pts spices. $99 (Biogro NZ) fresh lifted flavours. $NA EU) Super varietal (AB Ecocert) expression with ripe fruit fragrances and fresh fruit driven palate. Still very youthful. $39.99 (BioGro NZ) 98 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting Giesen Single OTHER RED Famille Amirault- Tamburlaine Organic 919 Reserve Vineyard Ridge VARIETALS & Grosbois Le Bourg Wines Point65 Riverland Touriga Block Marlborough BLENDS Loire Valley - AOP Orange Malbec Nacional 2018 Pinot Noir 2016 Chinon France 2018 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 93pts HHH 91pts 32 TASTED Cabernet Franc 2020 A solid wine with nice Spicy on nose and Nicely matured pinot 20 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts balance between cigar palate with great purple with tarry/molasses A very strong and Dense purple with box oak, ripe cherry fruit, fruit characters, hints characters, fine tannins consistent class with herbal/plum aromas and chocolate notes and of oak and angular and a creamy finish. a widespread range of varietally pure, medium leafy nuances. $30 (SXC) tannins. $42 (SXC) $49.99 (BioGro NZ) varietals and styles. “On bodied, palate with Argento Estate Gemtree Wines Giesen Single the whole winemakers confectionery characters, Reserve (Agrelo The Phantom Red Vineyard Clayvin respected the varietal powerful tannins and Luján de Cuyo and Blend Ten McLaren Marlborough characters of the fresh line of acid. $39.99 Paraje Altamira) Flat Red Blend Pinot Noir 2016 wines,” said one judge. (Ecocert, Demeter) Mendoza Malbec 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 91pts “These tended to be Domaine De Mayol 2018 HHHH 94pts Intriguing spicy fruit Earthy brambly nose fruit forward wines with Tentations Vallee A big gutsy wine with nose with nice soft and velvety palate with appropriate use of oak.” Du Rhone Luberon earthy/beetroot-like plum/red berry palate nice spicy red berry/ France Rouge 2020 aromas and lovely fruit and some obvious cherry flavours. $49.99 Z Wine [HILDER] HHHH1/2 96pts sweetness on the tannins. $60 (ACO) (BioGro NZ) Ancestor Vine Brilliant purple colour mid palate. Excellent Cigalus Rouge IGP Greystone Barossa Valley with super bright spicy tannins. $34 (Organic Aude Hauterive North Canterbury Mataro 2020 cherry aromatics. Very Grapes Argentina | Veg France Red Blend Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 97pts upfront sweet fruit Argentina Vegan LIAF 2019 HHH1/2 92pts HHH 90pts Good varietal fruit lift flavours with a solid Control | BDA Certified Brooding oaky nose and Bright complex oak to the nose, all spicy tannin structure. Be Sustainability) a savoury palate with driven wine with lovely and grape-like with great with an antipasto Tamburlaine Organic Ribena-like characters freshness of berry fruit. an excellent depth of plate. €4.5 EU (Qualite Wines Reserve and plenty of oak. $65 $45 (Biogro NZ) jubey fruit on the palate France Bureau Veritas) Orange Malbec (Demeter) Domaine laced with solid chewy Laudum Roble 2018 HHHH 94pts Z Wine [HILDER] Changarnier tannins. $300 (ACO) Monastrell A solid inky style with Ancestor Vine Monthelie 1er Cru Syrah 2019 power and delicacy. Great Barossa Valley Rouge \"Champs- HHHH1/2 96pts palate structure, berry Mataro 2018 Fulliot\" Burgundy Nose of fragrant fruit flavours and velvety HHH1/2 92pts France Pinot Noir perfumed fruit with a tannins. $80 (SXC) Intense beetroot/cassis 2019 HHH 90pts nice cured meat/savoury Famille Amirault- aromas and ripe sweet More of a savoury style, element. An oak focused Grosbois La Butte fruit palate with lovely great structure and nice palate with mouth aux Anes Organic tannin structure. $300 intensity of cherry/berry puckering tannins. Loire Valley France (ACO) fruit. $60 (Organic EU) Needs time to settle. Cabernet Franc Famille Amirault- €3.49 EU (CAECV) 2020 HHH1/2 93pts Grosbois Les Château Mourgues Exciting jubey perfumed Arpents Organic du Grès Galets fruit fragrances and a Loire Valley - AOP Rouges Costieres very delicate purple fruit Saint-Nicolas de De Nimes France driven palate. $24.50 Bourgueil France Red Blend 2019 (Ecocert, Demeter) Cabernet Franc HHHH 94pts Z Wine [HILDER] 2020 HHH 91pts A delicious Ancestor Vine Soft easy drinking uncomplicated style Barossa Valley style with musky/spicy with loads of character. Mataro 2019 bouquet and cassis/ Spicy leafy nose and HHH1/2 93pts Ribena flavours. $30.60 fresh dark fruit flavours Light jubey fruit bouquet (Ecocert, Demeter) €8.6 EU (EcoCert) and lovely richness of ripe berry fruit flavours with subtle us of oak. $300 (ACO) JUDGES - DAY 2 Mike Brown Amelia Anspach Troy Kalleske Owner, managing Winemaker at Angove Winemaker and co-owner director, chief Family Winemakers. of Kalleske Wines. winemaker and bio- Previously vintaged Previously with Southcorp dynamic farmer of with Cape Mentelle Group, including Gemtree Wines. A and overseas with Penfolds, Seppelt and leader in sustainable Domaine Chandon Lindemans. Also vintaged winemaking. (Argentina), Domaine with Kendall Jackson in Serenc (California) and California. Kendermanne (Mosel). Associate judge at Riverland, Rutherglen and Cowra wine shows. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 99

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES Bodegas Corral TOP 10 Los Corrales De ITALY & SPAIN Moncalvillo Red Maturana D.O.CA. The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic Rioja Red Blend wines as selected by highest judges 2018 HHH 91pts scores are: Nutty oaky aromas with a very oaky/powerful fruit 1. Laudum Roble palate. Needs red meat! Monastrell Syrah 2019 $21.30 (Organic EU) HHHH1/2 96pts (CAECV) Whistling Kite 2. Bodegas Neleman 30 Wishes Biodynamic ECCV Valencia Spain Tempranillo 2019 Riverland Mencia HHHH 94pts (Organic/CAECV) 2019 HHH 91pts Nutty, earthy and inky 3. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Cuatro Rayas nose and soft red fruit Organic Collection DO palate; some leafy Rueda Spain Verdejo 2020 notes. $35 (ACO) HHHH 94pts (CAECyL) 919 Reserve Zonte's Footstep Bodegas Neleman 4. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Nave Sur Riverland Madrugador Fleurieu 30 Wishes ECCV Organic DO Rueda Spain Sangiovese Tempranillo 2020 Valencia Spain Tempranillo 2019 2018 HHH 91pts HHHH 95pts Tempranillo 2019 HHHH 94pts (CAECyL) Spicy oak aromas and Beautiful dense purple HHHH 94pts flavours with some red wine with attractive Youthful vibrant purple 5. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Green & Social cherry fruit and fine red varietal fruits, slight wine with subtle DO Rueda Spain Verdejo 2020 tannins. $38 (SXC) confectionery notes and savoury oak and nice HHH1/2 93pts (CAECyL) dusty tannins. $35 (ACO) tannin structure. $NA Cascina Vèngore Bodega Cuatro (Organic/CAECV) 6. Bodegas Neleman Signature White Campolungo Rayas Nave Sur D.O Valencia Spain White Blend 2019 Barbera D'Asti Organic DO Rueda Bodega Cuatro HHH 91pts (Organic/CAECV) DOCG Italy Barbera Spain Tempranillo Rayas Cuatro Rayas 2020 HHH 90pts 2019 HHHH 94pts Organic DO Rueda 7. Laudum Nature Red Eco Dark fruit fragrances Dense crimson plum and Spain Tempranillo Tempranillo Blend 2019 with menthol nuances rich cherries and spice. 2019 HHH1/2 93pts HHH 91pts (CAECV) and fruit and nut Very clean, long, rich and Bright vibrant mid- chocolate bar flavours. ripe palate with a lovely crimson hues. Subdued 8. Bodegas Corral Vine Roots $NA (Organic EU) depth of vibrant fresh savoury aromas with Red Graciano D.O.CA. young fruit and well- generous soft fruit and Rioja Graciano 2018 Bodegas Corral Vine balanced oak. $9.99 savoury chewy tannins. HHH 90Pts (Organic EU) Roots Red Graciano (CAECyL) $18.95 (CAECyL) D.O.CA. Rioja Mount Avoca 9. Cascina Vèngore Campolungo Graciano 2018 Estate Pyrenees Laudum Nature Red Barbera D'Asti DOCG HHH 90pts Tempranillo 2019 Eco Tempranillo Italy Barbera 2020 Cherry fruit freshness HHHH 94pts Blend 2019 HHH 90pts (Organic EU) to the nose with Inviting candied spicy HHH 91pts leathery notes and a bouquet and beautiful Soft bright medium 10. Laudum Nature White Eco high acid palate. $21.30 plush and juicy fruit bodied wine with Macabeo 2019 (Organic EU) flavours nicely balanced brightness and good HHH 90pts (CAECV) by the acid. $32.50 (ACO) drinkability. €2.29 EU TEMPRANILLO (CAECV) 7 TASTED GRENACHE & 6 AWARDED BLENDS Great to see a line-up 6 TASTED of both Spanish and 4 AWARDED Australian tempranillo in the group with the best Some well-made wines varietal versions coming ranging from youthful to the fore. and vibrant to powerful and traditional. 100 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

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ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES TOP 10 Kalleske Old Vine MERLOT & FRENCH WINE Barossa Valley BLENDS Grenache 2019 The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic HHHH1/2 96pts 3 TASTED wines as selected by highest judges A big powerful old scores are: school classic that 3 AWARDED is very earthy and 1. MILLESIME BIO INTERNATIONAL beetroot-like with a Some very nice AWARD FOR BEST ORGANIC OR pleasant, perfumed lift examples of merlot BIODYNAMIC WINE and the oak kept nicely here with the blend Famille Amirault-Grosbois in check. $50 (SXC) having that added extra Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon Grancari Estate dimension. France Cabernet Franc 2020 McLaren Vale HHHH1/2 96pts (Ecocert, Demeter) Grenache 2019 Villa Maria Earth Domaine Tournon HHHH 95pts Garden Hawkes Bay Shay's Flat Vineyard 2. Domaine Changarnier Monthelie 1er Dark oaky nose and a NZ Merlot Cabernet Pyrenees Cabernet Cru Rouge \"Les Clous\" Burgundy delicious mouthful of Sauvignon 2019 Sauvignon 2019 France Pinot Noir 2019 sweet berry fruit flavours HHHH1/2 96pts HHHH 94pts HHHH1/2 96pts (Organic EU) with quite a chewy oak Deep purple wine – Dense stonefruit finish. $15 (ACO) bright and youthful with fragrances with a herbal 3. Domaine De Mayol Tentations Vallee Gemtree Wines blackcurrant-like fruit edge and intense varietal Du Rhone Luberon France Rouge 2020 Small Batch Egg characters showing a fruit characters on a soft HHHH1/2 96pts Fermented McLaren subtle menthol edge, and supple palate. $20 (Qualite France Bureau Veritas) Flat Grenache 2020 the oak in a supporting (NASAA) HHH1/2 92pts role and salivating acid. Mount Avoca 4. Château Mourgues du Grès Galets A pleasant and well- $25 (BioGro NZ) Estate Pyrenees Rouges Costieres De Nimes balanced crisp style Mount Avoca Estate Cabernet Sauvignon France Red Blend 2019 with “glossy” sweet Pyrenees Merlot 2019 HHHH 94pts HHHH 94pts (EcoCert) fruit characters and fine 2019 HHHH 94pts A varietally light, but tannins. $50 (ACO) Inviting ripe sweet plum lively, wine with plenty 5. Domaine Bassac Cuvee XVIII Rouge fruit aromas and red of dry red flavours, Cotes Du Thongue Syrah 2018 cherry flavours with nice confectionery notes HHHH 94pts (Ecocert) leafiness and balancing and slight edgy tannins. oak. $37.95 (ACO) $37.95 (ACO) 6. Domaine De Mayol Oplezir Vallee Du Tamburlaine Organic Rhone Luberon France Rosé 2020 Wines Reserve HHHH 94pts Orange (IC) Merlot (Qualite France Bureau Veritas) 2019 HHH 91pts A big tannic style with 7. Domaine Des Hardieres Les Petits loads of primary fruit and Gars Anjou Blanc Chenin 2019 plenty of leafy/vegetal HHHH 94pts notes. $48 (SXC) 8. Domaine Des Peirecedes Petit Bisou Chateau De Gaure CABERNET Rosily Vineyard AOC Cotes De Provence Rosé 2020 Chateau Languedoc SAUVIGNON & Margaret River HHHH 94pts (AB Ecocert) AOP Languedoc BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache Syrah 2019 HHH1/2 93pts 9. Domaine d'Eole Provence AOP D'Aix Carignan 2019 15 TASTED Good varietal earthiness En Provence France Rosé 2020 HHH 91pts 6 AWARDED here with dark ripe HHHH 94pts (EcoCert) Dark chocolaty fruit fruits, overt oak and with green olive-like A mixed bag with the balanced acid/tannins. 10. Famille Amirault-Grosbois Les complexity and a hint best showing varietal $28 (ACO) Graipins Loire Valley - AOP Saint- of leather. One for fruit, retained vibrancy Gemtree Wines Nicolas de Bourgueil France the cellar. €10 EU and oak in balance. The Small Batch Cabernet Franc 2017 (Bureau Veritas) others however had McLaren Flat HHH1/2 93pts (Ecocert, Demeter) green fruit characters Cabernet 2019 with unbalanced tannins. HHH1/2 93pts “With cabernet you see Dense sweet cassis the faults if the fruit is characters lift off the not grown and picked nose and fill the mouth well,” said one judge. with flavour. Just needs “With age these wines time. $50 (ACO) only get worse.” 102 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting TOP 10 SHIRAZ & Gemtree Wines Organic Hill BLENDS Uncut McLaren Preservative Free NEW ZEALAND WINE 2020-2019 Flat Shiraz 2019 Riverland Shiraz HHHH1/2 96pts 2019 HHH 90pts The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic 23 TASTED Brooding bouquet of Young, vibrant and fleshy wines as selected by highest judges 10 AWARDED chocolate and berries and brimming over with scores are: A very mixed group of with nicely retained jubey fruits. Drink now! wines here. “The best fruit and oak flavour $23 (NASAA) 1. Konrad Dry Marlborough Riesling 2017 examples had ripe dense sweetness and excellent HHHH1/2 97pts (Biogro NZ) fruit with balanced oak mouth-filling tannins. SHIRAZ & and acids giving vibrancy Good long-term BLENDS 2. Villa Maria Earth Garden of flavour,” noted one potential. $26 (ACO) 2018 & OLDER Hawkes Bay, NZ judge. “But some had Grancari Estate Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 murky undertones Greta's McLaren 22 TASTED HHHH1/2 96pts (BioGro NZ) showing a lack of Vale Shiraz 2019 9 AWARDED attention to detail by HHHH 95pts 3. Stoneleigh Organic Marlborough winemakers.” Another A huge ageing old school The 2018 vintage Chardonnay 2020 judge commented, “The style that’s dense, dark wines were generally HHHH 94pts (Biogro NZ) strong wines had a and chocolaty with a very good and, whilst ‘completeness’”. lingering finish. “Very they were better 4. Giesen Organic Marlborough Gemtree Wines satisfying!” $20 (ACO) than the bombed out Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Obsidian McLaren 919 Reserve 2017s, they are ready HHHH 94pts (BioGro NZ) Flat Shiraz 2019 Riverland Shiraz for drinking now. HHHHH 98pts 2020 HHHH 94pts “Unfortunately, organic 5. Clos Henri Estate Marlborough Dense black/red colour Dense lifted stewed fruit limitations for the use Sauvignon Blanc 2019 with a slight medicinal fragrances and lovely of sulphur perhaps HHHH 94pts (BioGro NZ) note to the subdued depth of cherry/berry results in premature nose and great depth flavours with dusty oak ageing in comparison 6. Ara Resolute Marlborough and richness of ripe soft and excellent acidity. with their non- Pinot Noir 2017 stonefruit flavours with $45 (SXC) organic counterparts,” HHH1/2 93pts (BioGro NZ) a nice warming finish. Gemtree Wines suggested one judge. $100 (ACO) Ernest Allan “For organic wines fresh 7. Greystone North Canterbury McLaren Flat Shiraz is best and are to be Pinot Gris 2020 Zonte's Footstep 2019 HHHH 94pts enjoyed in their youth.” HHH1/2 92pts (Biogro NZ) Nature's Crux Broad developing Fleurieu Shiraz 2020 bouquet with lovely Domaine Bassac 8. Konrad Organic Marlborough HHHH1/2 96pts integration of pristine Cuvee XVIII Rouge Sauvignon Blanc 2020 A classy dark purple varietal fruit, oak, chewy Cotes Du Thongue HHH1/2 92pts (BioGro NZ) wine rich with powerful tannins and acid. $80 Syrah 2018 sweet and inky fruit (ACO) HHHH 94pts 9. Giesen Organic Marlborough characters. Has drying Pogue Vineyard Complex chocolaty/ Pinot Noir 2019 tannins and acid giving Central Victoria leathery bouquet with HHH1/2 92pts (BioGro NZ) the wine great vibrancy. Shiraz 2020 great power of fruit $35 (ACO) HHH 91pts on the generous oaky 10. Greystone Thomas Brothers Very vibrant and youthful palate. €15 EU (Ecocert) North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2018 with generous bright HHH 91pts (Biogro NZ) berry fruit characters. d'Arenberg The Love $20.60 (ACO) Grass McLaren Vale Stormflower Rosily Vineyard Salena Estate Shiraz 2018 Vineyard Single The Cartographer Organic Riverland HHHH 94pts Vineyard Margaret Margaret River Shiraz 2019 A very lively youthful River Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon HHH 91pts wine with subtle aromas Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet A fragrant black cherry and delicious complexity 2018 HHH 91pts Franc Malbec Petit bouquet with a very of spicy plum/cassis Lovely leafy berry varietal Verdot 2019 sound soft plum and red flavours. $25 (NASAA) characters with good use HHH 90pts berry palate. $24 (ACO) of oak and drying tannins. Zesty candied fruit aromas Stormflower J & J Wines Rivers $65 (SXC) and ripe plum palate Vineyard Single Lane McLaren Vale with smoky oak and soft Vineyard Margaret Shiraz 2018 tannins. $25 (ACO) River Wilyabrup HHH1/2 92pts Shiraz 2019 Plenty of slightly charry HHH 91pts oak with very dark fruits Attractive leafy cool sitting underneath and climate style with dusty tannins. $25 (ACO) elegant tannins and a warm creamy finish. $40 (SXC) July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 103

ORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC WINES J & J Wines Chateau La Roque Macaw Creek Kalleske Lorraine Eminence McLaren La Cupa Pic Saint- Organic Preservative Barossa Valley Vale Shiraz 2018 Loup France Syrah Free Mount Lofty Semscato (Semillon HHH1/2 92pts Mourvedre Ranges Shiraz Moscato) 2021 A fruit driven shiraz with 2018 HHH 91pts 2018 HHH 90pts HHH 91pts lovely concentration A fascinating cool A straightforward style Slightly spritzig lime/ of rich fruit sweetness climate shiraz blend with well-maintained lemon bouquet with laced with soft tannins. with some very drying berry vibrancy showing refreshing lolly-like fruit $59 (ACO) tannins. €22 EU (EcoCert a savoury edge. $19 flavours and balancing Tamburlaine Organic & Demeter) (SXC) acidity. $21 (SXC) Wines Marlowe Château Mourgues Orange (IC) Syrah du Grès Terre SWEET STAR RATINGS  Cabernet 2018 d'Argence Rouge WHITES & HHH1/2 92pts Costieres De Nimes FORTIFIEDS Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of A lovely classy, France Shiraz excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. “glossy” and complex Grenache 2017 3 TASTED All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry wine with red cherry HHH 90pts 1 AWARDED professionals and are compared in peer fruits and supple oak A big oaky wine with classes by three judges. tannins. $130 (SXC) sweet ripe fruit sitting Only one worthy CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Domaine Bassac underneath and ripe recipient here in an a major mail-order business. Cuvee XVII Rouge tannins. €12.6 EU interesting lovely light CD Cellar door price. Syrah Marselan (EcoCert) style sweet white. CDO Cellar door only. Cotes Du Thongue SO Sold out. Rouge 2017 $N/A Price not available at time of printing. HHH 91pts  Contact information pages 112. More savoury in style with meaty/salami RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). characters and good BEST VALUE for $20 & under. tannins. Drink now! €15 For a complete list of what we tasted EU (Ecocert) please refer to www.winestate.com.au DELIVERING THE HIGHEST QUALITY ORGANIC CERTIFICATION SERVICES. NCO is highly recognised nationally and internationally as With auditors located throughout Australia, we can carry one of Australia’s leading organic certification organisations. out audits for multiple programs in the one visit, increasing We provide certification to multiple international markets efficiency and reducing audit costs. and all unregulated international markets. Our highly experienced technical team has a deep We currently certify 102 vineyards spanning across more knowledge and understanding of the technical aspects than 6300 hectares of land and 35 wineries. of vineyard and winery certification requirements and are ready to assist you. NCO is also an approved certification body for Freshcare Environmental, Viticulture and For more information visit www.ncocertifiedorganic.com.au Winery sustainability certification programs. or call us on +61 8 7231 7700. 104 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

feature tasting 134 TASTED 82 AWARDED NEW RELEASES With vintage finishing at the time of judging these new releases OTHER WHITE SEMILLON it is always a tough time to get these wines across the line. It VARIETALS & is either too early for the new vintage wines and in that \"in BLENDS 2 TASTED between\" period of neither freshness nor secondary complexity 2 AWARDED stages. Having said all that there are still gems to find and lots of 9 TASTED good drinking! It is hard to go past the consistency of shiraz, but 3 AWARDED A couple of good in this tasting others that performed well are cabernets, grenache youthful examples from and also tempranillo with one fine old museum riesling. Another group that the current vintage and disappointed the judges offering ageing potential. SPARKLING Reillys Museum SAUVIGNON although there was one Release Watervale BLANC standout verdelho. “Too Gumpara Wines 3 TASTED Clare Valley Riesling many wines exhibited Frieda's Old Vine 2012 HHHHH 98pts 5 TASTED dilute flavour or were Barossa Valley 2 AWARDED An old curio of a style. 1 AWARDED too broad regardless of Semillon 2021 Citrus aromas with the variety involved. At HHHH 94pts A couple of nice toasty characters and Disappointing group. the end of the day, you An herbaceous nose examples of style. steely notes. Honeyed There was just one still need flavour and with a grassy lift. Some palate with citrus based excellent example but structure,” commented pretty melon characters Redbank Wines flavours filling it out. the judges saw too one judge. on the palate with a Victoria Prosecco Good line of acid. Drink many viticultural and good line of acid. $28 Rosé 2020 now. $40 winemaking problems. Tempus Two Copper HHH1/2 92pts Z Wine Rustica Eden Hunter Valley McGuigan Bin Pale pink, zesty, fruit Valley Riesling 2020 Leefield Station Verdelho 2021 9000 Hunter Valley driven style with subtle HHH1/2 92pts Waihopai Valley HHHH1/2 96pts Semillon 2021 aromas and flavours and Musky confectionery Sauvignon Blanc Subtle lemon fragrances HHH 90pts balancing acidity. $20 bouquet with a grassy 2020 showing a mineral Lemony aromas with a character to the very HHHH1/2 96pts element and some clean, uncomplicated and Litharian Wines VBBAEULSYUTSE pretty and delicate Lifted sweet passionfruit delicate and zesty zesty fruit palate. $40 Soul Diva palate. $25 fragrances with intense lemon flavours nicely Bubbly South Deakin Brothers varietal flavours on a soft supported by a crisp CHARDONNAY Australia Moscato Joyhill Vineyard and creamy palate. Nice acid structure. $30 Rosa NV HHH 91pts Frankland River acid zing to the finish. 13 TASTED Subtle toastiness to Riesling 2020 HHH $19.99 Redbank Wines 8 AWARDED the stonefruit nose 91pts Victoria Pinot Grigio with a tight crisp Fragrant frangipani 2021 HHH1/2 92pts “There was a big palate. $20 aromas. Soft in the A lovely light drinkable difference between mouth with good line of varietal with pleasant the commercial and RIESLING acid. $39.99 stonefruit characters and premium wines here,” Bream Creek “gentle” sweetness. said one judge. “This 7 TASTED Vineyard Old Vine $20 is a variety that can Reserve Tasmania handle some artefact.” 4 AWARDED Riesling 2019 HHH Are you Game? One great example of 91pts Strathbogie Ranges an aged chardonnay that Aged stonefruit King Valley Arneis has retained vibrancy. characters developing 2020 HHH 91pts A solid line-up with one but acid giving it a certain Candied musky bouquet standout aged release to youthfulness. $48 and fresh apple flavours try! “Some very pleasant with tropical nuances. drinking here,” said one $20 judge. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 105

NEW RELEASES Gralyn Estate Sandalford Lumiere Provence OTHER RED Artwine Leave Reserve Margaret Prendiville Reserve France Rosé VARIETALS & Your Hat On River Chardonnay Margaret River 2020 HHHH 96pts BLENDS Single Vineyard 2017 HHHHH 98pts Chardonnay Lovely nose - lifted Clare Valley A still amazingly 2018 HHH1/2 92pts and strawberry-like. 12 TASTED Montepulciano youthful, fruit driven Reminiscent of crème Refreshingly crisp in the 6 AWARDED 2020 HHH 91pts style with lovely flow brulee with toasty mouth with delicate red Dark inky fruit nose and and balance of pretty lemon butter bouquet fruit flavours. $40 A much better group powerful fruit expression pear and stonefruit and a lovely unctuous Domaine Des Feraud than the white varietals. to the palate. $38 varietal characters. The palate. $75 Cuvee Prestige “Plenty of variety here acid backbone ties it all Provence France and those higher scored Artwine Pack Leader together. $75 Are You Game? Rosé 2020 wines were true to their Single Vineyard Fifth Estate Central Victoria HHH1/2 92pts varietal character,” noted Clare Valley Wines Geographe Chardonnay Pungent and herbaceous one judge. “What a Cabernet Franc Chardonnay 2020 2020 HHH 91pts on the nose that is lovely bracket in which 2020 HHH 91pts HHHH1/2 96pts A very clean well-made echoed on the lovely you can buy a few and Pretty lifted red fruit Nice oak complexity varietal with very subtle crisp clean palate. $45 compare the different nose and a red cherry to the slatey lime use of oak. $20 Koonara Emily May varieties.” palate with approachable and melon bouquet. Limestone Coast tannins. $38 Citrus dominates the Ubertas Single Rosé 2021 Paulmara Estates palate and has tropical Vineyard Barossa HHH 91pts De Nero Barossa Brand & Sons elements with “punchy” Valley Chardonnay Lifted, slightly pungent, Nero D'Avola 'Last Sunday oak. $27 2020 HHH 91pts strawberry nose and 2020 HHHH 94pts Drive' Coonawarra The Ned Subtle aromatics and long intense strawberry/ A bright youthful purple Cabernet Franc Marlborough soft smooth peachy raspberry palate. $23 wine with ripe cherry 2019 HHH 91pts Chardonnay palate with herbaceous Tempus Two Copper fruit and sweet vanillin Nice balance here 2020 HHHH 94pts notes. $20 Hunter Valley Rosé oak running through between red fruits, “Ticks all the boxes!” 2021 HHH 91pts it. $22 savoury elements and Attractive spicy melon Firetail Margaret Rose petal bouquet and attractive oak. $26 aromas with slatey River Chardonnay a crisp and refreshing Paulmara Estates complexity and a silky 2020 HHH 91pts fruity palate with racy The Melee Barossa TEMPRANILLO smooth, seamlessly Nutty/quince fragrances acidity. $30 Sangiovese Shiraz & BLENDS balanced, palate. with rich tropical fruit Leefield Station Malbec 2020 $18.99 flavours and a hint of Waihopai Valley HHH 91pts 6 TASTED oak. $36 Pinot Rosé Red cherry and plum 4 AWARDED 2020 HHH 91pts fruit characters with oak Leefield Station Nice floral lift to the nose in a supporting role. $25 Some good quaffing Waihopai Valley with sweet strawberry opportunities here. Chardonnay flavours. Good acid line. Artwine The Grace “The un-oaked versions 2019 HHH 91pts $19.99 Single Vineyard seemed to offer better Buttery nutty brown lime Clare Valley options,” suggested one nose and nicely rounded Graciano 2020 judge. tropical/melon palate. HHH 91pts $27.99 Pretty lifted spicy/peppery Silver Spoon Estate blue fruit fragrances and No Bull Heathcote ROSÉ flavours. $32 Tempranillo 2018 HHHH 94pts 8 TASTED Sweet toasty oak 5 AWARDED dominates here but has enough powerful There is enough to red fruit to match it. A please everyone here good example of style. with a variety of colours Pleasant savouriness to and styles. “These range the finish. $38 from bright primary fruit driven styles to the more evolved textured ones.” JUDGES - DAY 1 Amanda Trezise Brooke Blair Dave Matthews Winemaker for TWG - Winemaker for Peter Lehmann Formerly Winemaker The Wine Group Wines in the Barossa Valley. 18 at Rosemount and in Loxton, South years in the wine industry; 11 Group Winemaker for Australia. Previously years in Canada. Has vintaged Treasury Wine estates. with Australian in Spain, Chile, Canada & Vintages in Tuscany and Vintage and the Australia. Previously worked California. Judged in McGuigan Wine at Hollick Wines, Berri Estates Australia and overseas. Group. Previously & Jackson-Triggs (Canada). Currently with Francois judged with the Judged at the Marananga Freres cooperages and Riverland wine show. (Barossa) wine show and owner winemaker of Okanagan show (Canada). Gargoyle Wines. 106 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

NEW RELEASES The Mix Tape Tellurian Heathcote Clyde Park Single CABERNET Byrne Reserve Clare 'Spanish Fly Mix' Grenache Shiraz Block \"F\" Geelong SAUVIGNON Valley Cabernet South Australia Mourvedre Pinot Noir 2020 Sauvignon 2019 Tempranillo 2019 HHHH 94pts HHH1/2 92pts 9 TASTED HHH1/2 92pts 2020 HHH 91pts Earthy red fruit Earthy/savoury nose 7 AWARDED Nice blackcurrant and Lightweight, savoury fragrances with silky with sweet fruit flavours, The older vintages toasty oak nose with Old-World style with smooth palate showing firm gritty tannins with a performed best here a generous plum/olive clean red cherry varietal cherry fruit and savoury finish. Time! but there is good palate and smooth fruit. $15 supported by savoury consistency across all tannins. $28 oak. $29 Singlefile Single vintages. “The better Artwine Hola Single Vineyard Pemberton wines showed off their Passel Estate Lot 71 Vineyard Clare Silver Spoon Estate Pinot Noir fruit character rather than Reserve Margaret Valley Tempranillo Menage a Trois 2020 HHH 91pts the oak,” said one judge. River Cabernet 2020 HHH 91pts Heathcote G.S.M. A big-bodied pinot with Sandalford Sauvignon 2016 Bright, fresh and spicy 2018 HHHH 94pts a lovely generosity of Prendiville HHH1/2 92pts fruit driven wine. “Oak In the riper spectrum cherry fruit and savoury Reserve Margaret Velvety smooth style plays no part!” $32 with a lovely, lifted mix oak. $35 River Cabernet holding up well with of red/black berries Sauvignon 2018 complex varietal Woody Nook with sweet roasted Mount Avoca HHHH1/2 96pts characters and firm Limited Release oak. Plenty of potential. Headspace Organic A riper fuller style with tannins. $96 G&T Margaret Pyrenees Pinot Noir attractive richness. River Tempranillo 3-5 $30 2020 HHH 91pts Smells and tastes of Haselgrove Graciano An elegant flavoursome dark currants and olives Protector McLaren 2019 HHH 91pts PINOT NOIR wine with minty/ with a tarry element Vale Cabernet Super spicy blackberry eucalypt nuances and and lots of fine tannins Sauvignon nose with a fleshy oak 11 TASTED subtle tannins. $49 providing length. $120 2019 HHH 91pts and red fruit palate. $28 6 AWARDED Good depth of bright CABERNET Gralyn Estate blackcurrant fruit GRENACHE & A mixed lot with one BLENDS Reserve Margaret characters with BLENDS company dominating the River Cabernet nice chocolaty oak group. “The better wines 4 TASTED Sauvignon 2017 influence. $40 5 TASTED were not over-oaked or 3 AWARDED HHHH1/2 96pts 4 AWARDED over-ripe and put the Extremely bright and Jim Brand 'Silent grape varietal characters Generally, from cooler vibrant for its age. Lovely Partner' Coonawarra A strong class showing upfront,” commented regions these blends peppery blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon the great drinkability of one judge. offered good balanced fruit characters with 2018 HHH 91pts the variety – all unctuous and very drinkable wine classy oak and some Savoury earthy nose and and bright. Clyde Park Locale options. leathery-like maturity. a blackcurrant lift with Geelong Pinot Noir more of the same on the RedHeads Princess 2020 HHHH 94pts Leconfield 5+ $120 palate. $40 of Thieves Barossa Pungent leathery Coonawarra Valley Grenache cranberry bouquet with Cabernets Reillys Dry Land Shiraz Mataro a lightweight, slightly 2019 HHHH 95pts Clare Valley 2020 HHHH 94pts sweet, palate and just a A stylish and very Cabernet Sauvignon Attractive aromatics, whiff of oak. varietal cabernet with 2017 HHH 91pts soft and nicely rounded herbaceous blackcurrant Spicy leathery nose in the mouth with Clyde Park Estate fruit characters and and intense prune-like flavoursome integration Geelong Pinot Noir supported by cedary flavour richness to the of fruit and oak. $30 2020 HHH1/2 92pts oak. $30 palate. $38 A somewhat savoury, Artwine Grumpy earthy and dark cherry Sandalford SHIRAZ & Old Man Old Bush nose with a lovely long Prendiville Reserve BLENDS Vine Single Vineyard fleshy red fruit palate. Margaret River 2020 & 2019 Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache Clyde Park Single Shiraz 2017 23 TASTED 2020 HHHH 94pts Block \"D\" Geelong HHH1/2 92pts 16 AWARDED Lovely red cherry/ Pinot Noir Mature Christmas cake strawberry lift to the nose 2020 HHH1/2 92pts nose and nicely evolving, A consistent group “But with generous sweet ripe Subtle berry aromas and fully integrated, savoury have the winemakers fruit flavours and “sandy” a red cherry palate with palate. Still youthful. $120 taken the absence of oak tannins. $40 attractive stemmy notes too far creating simple and earthy hints. Singlefile Great ‘jubey’ wines,” asked one Southern Cabernet judge. “Fresh oak gives Sauvignon Merlot that added dimension.” 2019 HHH 91pts Nicely balanced medium bodied blend with lovely spicy fruit and just a hint of mint. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 107

NEW RELEASES Forester Estate Hereford Heathcote Tellurian Pastiche Beklyn Single Reillys Dry Land Home Block Shiraz 2020 Heathcote Shiraz Vineyard Currency Clare Valley Shiraz Margaret River HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts Creek Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 92pts Shiraz 2019 Full flavoursome Chunky style with an 2020 HHH 90pts Rich fig-like bouquet HHHHH 98pts chocolaty style with intense core of simple Silky smooth wine rich and generous Cool climate Rhone-like hint of mint and gentle lifted dark fruits and soft with fleshy plum fruit varietal fruit flavours style with fragrant red tannins. $16 tannins. $29 and lifted by chocolaty seamlessly layered cherry fruit, subtle use Fifth Estate Wines Shanahans Silence oak. $45 with spicy oak. $38 of cedary oak and long Michele's Vine Is Golden Barossa Allegiance Wines silky tannins. “Looks Geographe Shiraz Valley Shiraz SHIRAZ & The Artisan Aged better after each 2020 HHH 91pts 2019 HHH 91pts BLENDS Release McLaren mouthful!” said one Seamless integration Rich plum-like 2018 & OLDER Vale Shiraz 2016 judge. $35 between red berry fruit, varietal fruit nicely HHH1/2 92pts Z Wine Julius spicy/cedary oak and complemented by a 17 TASTED Developing savoury Barossa Valley fine tannins. $23 subtle use of oak. $30 11 AWARDED shiraz with cola-like Shiraz 2019 Inner City Gumpara Wines notes to the nose and HHHH 94pts Winemakers Victor's Old Vine A solid class. “Once sweet berry/nutty oak Sweet oak and raisined- Smoking Gum Barossa Valley again shiraz delivers flavours. $40 like fruit aromas with Hilltops Shiraz Shiraz 2019 with its consistency and Reillys RCV perfumed notes. The 2020 HHH 91pts HHH 91pts generosity of flavour,” 'Epitaph' Clare full-bodied palate is rich Sweet punchy oak nose Big old school style said one judge. “Watch Valley Shiraz with flavour. $70 with a dark fruit lift and with sweet ripe fruit, the level of vanilla oak, 2016 HHH1/2 92pts Bellevue Estate super powerful oak/fruit subtle oak and mouth however, which can Powerful rich sweet McLaren Vale Shiraz flavours. $38 puckering tannins. $32 take away from the fruit dark plum fruit, plenty 2019 HHH1/2 92pts Haycutters McLaren Barossa Valley Wine vibrancy.” of oak and good tannin Inky-like ripe complexity Vale Shiraz Company Stockyard structure. Years ahead of of black fruits and fresh 2019 HHH 91pts Barossa Valley Reillys RCV it! $65 oak nicely balanced by the Intense purple wine with Shiraz 2019 'Pressings' Clare Nietschke Julius silky tannins. $19.99 ripe fleshy plum fruit HHH 91pts Valley Shiraz 2016 Barossa Valley showing subtle mint Nicely matured wine HHHH1/2 96pts Shiraz 2018 influence. $18 with lovely ripe fruit, Obvious concentration HHH 91pts Tellurian Redline lifted oak and grainy of smart varietal fruit Dark sweet plum fruit Heathcote Shiraz tannins. $40 with lashings of oak. with meaty notes, subtle 2019 HHH 91pts Gumpara Wines Tannins are a highlight oak and silky-smooth Silky smooth wine Mader Reserve here; they are silky and tannins. $25 with great depth and Barossa Valley there are lots of them! Reillys Clare Valley intensity of rich fruit with Shiraz 2019 Shiraz 2018 chocolaty notes. $23 HHH 91pts 5+ $65 HHH 91pts Z Wine Rustica Rich meaty aromatics Blackberries and plums Barossa Valley and a nice solid core Mr Riggs Burnt here carried by plenty Shiraz 2019 of sweet rich fruit Block McLaren of sweet chocolaty oak HHH 91pts flavours. $60 Vale Shiraz 2018 characters. $25 Upfront oak dominates Gumpara Wines HHHH1/2 96pts Z Wine Rustica the rich plum fruit with The Bake House A well made and stylish Reserve Barossa subtle vanillin oak and Barossa Valley wine with a dark berry Valley Shiraz ripe tannins. $25 Shiraz 2020 nose showing subtle 2018 HHH 91pts HHH 90pts leathery aged notes Ripe stewed fruit Deep purple wine with and a big generous characters nicely lots of perfumed oak and sweet and fleshy fruit integrated with an lifted sweet blackberry palate. $50 intensity of sweet fruit. $19.99 oak. $34 JUDGES - DAY 2 Brett Smith Amanda Trezise Winemaker at Peter Winemaker for Adam Clay Lehmann wines in the TWG - Winemaker for Pirathon Barossa Valley. Associate The Wine Group Wines. Previously judge at the Barossa in Loxton, South winemaker for Penfolds, wine show and small Australia. Previously Lindemans and Taylors. winemakers shows (QLD). with Australian Has completed vintages Has completed AWAC Vintage and the at Marchesi de Frescobaldi course. Previously a McGuigan Wine in Chianti and Pellegrin in winemaker at Lindemans Group. Previously California. Judge at the and Penfolds. Has vintaged judged with the Alternative Varieties show in California. Riverland wine Cairns, Queensland Wine show. Awards and Clare Valley wine show. 108 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

Buller Wines BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 The 1928 Block Rutherglen Shiraz 2018 HHH 91pts Rich ripe ageing style with leathery spicy notes and velvety smooth tannins. $70 Sandalford Prendiville Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2018 HHH 91pts Subtle fruit/oak aromas with sweet vanillin oak tending to override the fruit flavours. $120 Gralyn Estate Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2017 HHH 91pts Bright purple savoury/ meaty oak driven style with tight tannin structure. $120 $U2N0D&ER Litharian Wines Soul Diva Berton Vineyards (NZ $25 & UNDER) Bubbly South Australia Metal Label Riverina Moscato Rosa NV Durif 2020 Subtle toastiness to the Inky wine with big chocolaty/ stonefruit nose with a tight dark plum aromas and flavours crisp palate. $20 and mouth-coating tannins. $14 Litharian Wines (Global Hawk Pty Ltd) Berton Vineyards Phone: 0411 285 990 Phone: 02 6968 1600 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.litharianwines.com.au Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some TO QUALIFY wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by 1 Wines must have first been recommended in Winestate Magazine higher-rated wines. style or new release tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as the best wines currently available, from big-name brands and shiraz/cabernet wines. the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, 2 Wines from designated regional tastings are eligible provided they as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines are widely available. listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more available in the marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. expensive cousins. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 109

TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a discount coupon to use on your wine purchase. When travelling next to the Margaret River Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine tasting experience, the centrepiece of which is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the only one of its kind in Australia and has been a consistent regional award winner in the annual Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards. Visit the website for more information on the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting experiences on offer. 200 Chapman Hill E Rd, Chapman Hill WA 6280 E: [email protected] P: 0448 531 399 W: www.whicherridge.com.au WhicherRidgeWines whicherridgewines Scan the QR code to watch our story video on YouTube