Winestate Magazine May June 2020

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE DIVERSIFICATION IS KEY Nikola Estate and Oakover has a recipe for success Wines of NSW 225 tasted New Releases 283 tasted Best of the West 214 tasted May/June 2020 McLaren Vale Vol 43 Issue 3 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) 162 tasted NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus McLaren Vale • Southern Victoria & Tasmania • Fleurieu & Kangaroo Island New Releases • North Island (Gisborne, Auckland & Northland) NZ

Partner with at the Wine & Gourmet Japan 14 - 16 April 2021

For further enquiries email to: [email protected] or phone 08 83579277

contents MAY/JUNE 2020 FEATURES 20 20 DIVERSIFICATION IS KEY R E G U L A R S The owners of labels Oakover 8 Briefs and Nikola Estates (home of the once iconic Houghton) realised 16 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley early on that not putting all of their 18 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King proverbial in one basket would 24 Grapevine be the key to success, writes 16 Mike Zekulich. The Yukich's have 28 Wine Investment & Collecting 16 A TAINTED FUTURE? successfully established a family 98 Aftertaste This past vintage will be operation that runs the gamut remembered for a long time, from coffee, cheese, gourmet food reports Wine Tutor, Clive Hartley. On-going drought, raging fires, and wine through to a full service smoke taint and finally the damage done to business by the hospitality experience. Coronavirus have all created an anus horribilis. Not many regions 84 New Releases escaped either the direct impact of 94 Best Value Buys under $20 fires or the smoke. Clive examines the fall out and where to next. 98 W I N E TAST I N G S 98 SCHNAPPS TO IT! 32 Best of the West Elisabeth King explores the 44 Wines of NSW 58 Southern Victoria & Tasmania resurgence of the 80's favourite 64 McLaren Vale tipple, schnapps and how this 72 Fleurieu & Kangaroo Island sweet digestive is no longer just 76 North Island, NZ reserved for being a delicious 80 Michael Cooper's Recent Releases topping to your favoured dessert. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 301 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au May/June 2020 Cover photograph Simon Laprida 4 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

NO.301 MAY/JUNE 2020 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Ashlea Lowke E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley STOP COVID-19 South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin STAY AT HOME Western Australia Mike Zekulich & DRINK WINE Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW SUPPORT WINESTATE National Travel Winsor Dobbin RECOMMENDED WINERIES, EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW BY ORDERING WINE AND ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins GETTING IT DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR. ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, www.winestate.com.au 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2020 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 5

New Zealand’s Most Trusted & Admired Wine Brand George, Founder, Owner

editorial THIS IS ONE OFTHE MOST DIFFICULT EDITORIALS I HAVE HADTO WRITE. At the time of writing, in the last days of March, the only issue in our world is the Covid-19 virus and the unprecedented responses we are going through from both a health and a financial point of view. It is difficult to know what to say to those who have lost loved ones, suffered from the disease or suffered from the isolation required, other than to offer the utmost sympathy. This, on top of the remaining fallout from the Black Summer bushfires that ravaged across most of Australia, severely affecting some wine regions, has been crippling for the wine, tourism and hospitality industries. On top of this we have the financial strains, both personal and from a company point of view, that it seems everyone has to deal with. In my view general kudos to the government, dealing with an impossible situation, which seems to change day by day with no precedence. Having said this we need to try to be normal in an abnormal situation, so I will continue for a moment to discuss this Winestate magazine issue and try to take your mind off all the current problems – at least for a moment. Thankfully we managed to get four tastings in four states plus a very strong New Releases judging over two days before the proverbial hit the fan so I can report on some very good results for the regions and the wineries. First, we kicked off with our Annual Best of the West judging at the Perth Hyatt, always a pleasure and again did not fail to impress. It was good to see the usual high quality chardonnays and cabernets, as expected, but shiraz seems to be making big grounds in both volume and quality terms. Riesling continues to offer an alternative cool climate option and the sauvignon blanc, SSB’s and SBS’s take us back to happier times (you have to question why these successful blends were let go from a marketing point of view?). Of great interest was the resurgence of wines from the Swan Valley, largely overlooked recently in favour of the Southern regions. Don’t forget to check out some of the alternative varieties also. Next we had a tasting at the William Angliss College in Melbourne of some select cool climate wines from Tasmania and Southern Victoria, including the regions of Mornington, Geelong and Yarra Valley. A most interesting tasting where cool climates offer great variability from micro climates and vintage variation. It does lead to lots of character and lots of discussion. Look out for some excellent chardonnays and older pinot noirs. For our Wines of NSW we were pleased to judge over 200 wines with some great examples on offer. Not surprisingly the aged semillons continued to show their place as world class wines with Coolangatta Estate the star again. Cabernets from Mudgee continue to shine but there were also good results with riesling and shiraz also a treat. Great to see the adopted alternative reds finding a niche in the armoury. McLaren Vale and Fleurieu/Kangaroo Island were separated as tastings this year as the former is warm climate and the latter clearly cool climate. (However as Wolf Blass used to say - and to win trophies with – the combination of wines from the two regions are the best.) “Fleurieu Peninsula” incorporating Langhorne Creek, Currency Creek, Southern Fleurieu and yes, Mclaren Vale, offered the best of both worlds. McLaren Vale, with its big flavours offered the blockbuster punch rivalling Barossa Valley, whilst the cooler regions offered elegance of fruit with great natural acidity and vibrancy. Some excellent results here for you to choose from. For our Kiwi wine lovers Michael Cooper continues to keep on top of the local product with a special North Island tasting along with reviews on the current wines in the marketplace. A unique perspective! Judging the New Releases for this issue was a great pleasure with over 300 judged, many of high quality and overall of great consistency. There were few bad wines in the judging and even those who missed out did so only by a small margin often with one judge recommending them and the other two not. Sort out the styles you like from the judges comments and support the wineries online by ordering a box or two. I am sure that they will be most appreciative. In the meantime please stay safe and healthy. Cheers, Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Peter Simic Your wine, ourMpaojorrtsS.ponsors and Supporters Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com 7 May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E

briefs BLACK SUMMER TOLL FALL OUT FROM THE FIRES AUSTRALIAN vintage 2020 has been one of the most challenging THE 2019-20 summer bushfires may be gone but it will take years in recent memory. Bush fires across four states and the ACT have for Australian wine producers – decades in some cases – to make taken their toll with many producers choosing not to make wine after the return to financial security and 2019 production levels. Counting concerns about the effect of smoke taint on grapes. High profile the cost makes for depressing reading. producer, Clonakilla at Murrumbateman in the ACT was among the first to make an announcement on February 18. The company According to Wine Australia, about 1% or 1500 hectares of vines board, it said, had made the “painful decision” not to make wines were affected. The worst hit region was the Adelaide Hills which lost from “any vineyard in New South Wales this year.” as much as 30% of its vineyards, including the oldest at Lenswood and owned by Henschke. Vineyards across Kangaroo Island were “Analysis of ripening grapes from our estate vineyard in also directly impacted with vines at leading producer, The Islander, Murrumbateman, and the vineyards of our longstanding grape completely destroyed. suppliers in the Hilltops region around the town of Young, has revealed unacceptably high levels of smoke taint across all In New South Wales, the regions of Tumbarumba and the Hunter varieties and all vineyard sites,” stated the company release.” Valley were among the worst-hit, while other areas such as Orange and Canberra were affected by smoke taint. According to the New Neighbouring Canberra producers, including Shaw Wines and South Wales Wine Industry Association, the state will lose more Ravensworth also did not make wine. Bryan Martin, Ravensworth’s than $100 million in grape sales alone. owner/winemaker, elected to salvage the fruit and make a fruit beer. Producers in Victoria’s North-East were also among those affected, “In the Hunter, the effects of direct fire and smoke-related including Mandy Jones at Jones Winery, Rutherglen. damages have been significant with estimates already coming in that 20% to 50% of wine grape crops have been impacted,” said “It is with much sadness,” she revealed in a March 3 press the association’s executive officer, Angus Barnes. release, “that we announce that there will be no 2020 Jones Winery & Vineyard wines made from our historic estate vineyards. In Victoria, smoke taint has also caused concern in the King Valley, Beechworth and Gippsland. “The impact of the intense smoke haze we experienced over many days in January from fires more than 60km away, has been BLOCKCHAIN WINE TRACKING significant. Unfortunately, even very immature grapes can absorb chemical compounds from heavy smoke haze.” HAVING pioneered the use of screwcap closure technology, Clare Valley wine producers are now exploring the potential of innovative FLAWED FEAR MONGERING blockchain technology with a trial involving 100 regional wine companies. “ALCOHOL can cause lifelong harm to your baby” could be the warning attached to wine under new mandatory labelling The brainchild of winemaker Jeffrey Grosset and grape grower requirements. The wording, approved by Food Standards Australia David Travers, who together won the SA Premier’s Blockchain New Zealand (FSANZ), has been called flawed, costly and Challenge last year, the trial has been conducted by their newly- ineffective by Australian Grape & Wine (AGW). formed company, Vino Trust, a wine-specific technology platform. “This pregnancy warning label is a classic example of bureaucratic Launching the trial, Grosset said the original blockchain concept over-reach and is not a good example of science-based decision had been expanded from one concentrating on anti-fraud and making,” said AGW chief executive, Tony Battaglene. counterfeit wines to better managing data. The new label will also include the words “health warning” in red, Twelve Clare Valley wine companies participated in the trial bold capital letters. which collected real time harvest and winery data. Loads of grapes were stamped and geo-located as they left the vineyard, Public health advocates are in favour of the new warning and with the collected information assisting in winery planning and have called it a significant step. logistics. The data will be made available to consumers via bottle labels from the release of the 2020 Clare Valley rieslings onwards. “This hugely significant step,” said Trish Hepworth, director of Participating companies include Kilikanoon, Jim Barry Wines, Tim policy and research at the Foundation for Alcohol Research and Adams, Casella, Pikes, Grosset and Mount Horrocks. Education, “will help protect future generations of Australians. Alcohol consumption during pregnancy is a serious issue.” “What started out as a passion for defending brand integrity has proven to be much more valuable as a management too,” said The wine and alcoholic beverages industries have called on state Jeffrey Grosset. food ministers to reject the labelling initiative and instead make the current voluntary Drink Wise label mandatory. 8 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

briefs FOOTSTEPS FOLLOWED WINE ON THE WATER A NEW wine label in Tasmania carries QUALITY wine is a priority for Viking Cruises, which will have two a name that is familiar to wine lovers ships in Australian waters this summer. Viking Sun and Viking Orion around Australia. Marco Lubiana, will offer several local cruises from seasonal Sydney and Auckland talented 24-year-old son of Steve home ports. Not only do the ships offers several specialty and and Monique Lubiana from Stefano alfresco dining options such as Manfredi’s for traditional Italian Lubiana Wines, has lifted the veil on and the Chef’s Table, where chefs serve up destination-inspired his Marco Lubiana 2018 pinot noir and degustation menus paired with global wines. There are 125 wines 2018 chardonnay - both made from in all to choose from, along with 31 vintages of Armagnac. fruit grown on the former Panorama vineyard in the Huon Valley. Anna Bathgate, the Viking PR and Communications manager, says that Viking has made every effort to make cruising as hassle- Panorama was purchased by the free as possible for those who hate the idea of queues and sharing Lubiana family four years ago and tables. That includes a policy of \"no crowds, no queues, no casinos, has undergone serious work before no kids and no silly \"nickel and dime\" charges. That means you the release of these two wines. It is won't get slugged for that glass of wine you have with dinner, or now called Lucille's vineyard in honour for your use of Wi-Fi on board. of BB King’s guitar. Lucille was first planted in 1973 by Steve Ferenze and Other good news is that every state room has either a window is home to some of the oldest vines or a balcony and there are no butlers, no photographers, no in the south of Tasmania. The vines are planted on grey clay with formal or fancy-dress nights and you can even BYO wine should river-bed stones covered by a sandy loam topsoil. The vineyard is you wish. The list carries prestige names from Australia, the US, in conversion to biodynamics with certification expected next year. France, Italy, New Zealand and South Africa, among others. Think Both the pinot noir and chardonnay blocks have seen the addition offerings like Taittinger and Louis Roederer Cristal, Chateau St of new clones to add complexity and the fruit is hand-picked and Michelle and Domaine Wachau, Tignanello and Nederburg, Dog yields are kept low. Both wines are unfined and unfiltered. Point and Château Léoville Barton. For full details and bookings Lubiana, a surfer in his spare time, says he makes his wines by visit www.vikingcruises.com.au \"touch and smell\" rather than numbers. He's just 28 vintages behind his father. The complex and rustic pinot is open fermented, basket pressed and matured for a year in older French barriques. Both wines retail for $50. www.marcolubiana.com.au WINE FOR TIGERS INDIA’S Tiger Water Life Project aimed at saving India’s Royal Bengal tigers from extinction now has a new advocate. Mornington Peninsula winemaker, Paramdeep Ghumman at Nazaaray Estate is donating all tasting fees and $2 from every bottle sold of his new release chardonnay and pinot noir under the Bangles label, to the water project. Bangles was an abandoned young tiger who was befriended by Ghumman’s boyhood friend, Pawan Jaidka, who has taken up the cudgels on behalf of India’s tigers who are threatened with extinction from a combination of poaching, hunting, deforestation and climate change. Their water holes, essential for life, are drying up. Jaidka’s Tiger Water Life Project is changing that. The installation of bores and solar pumps now bring water to Bangles and her mates. Hundreds of pumps are being installed through donations from around the world, including from funds raised by visitors to Nazaaray Estate and through the purchase of Bangles 2016 pinot noir and 2018 chardonnay. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs “Last year it was standing idle with the prospect of permanent closure. All the facility required were some critical upgrades, improvement of its capacity to manage premium parcels of fruit and a winemaking team. Aaron Mercer is now group senior winemaker with Monica Gray, the site winemaker. Davidson said the move was critical for the previously ‘pure Hunter’ boutique cellar door and winery operation. “Tamburlaine now owns and contracts in the vicinity of 450 vineyard hectares and currently produces, between Orange and the Hunter, approximately 200,000 cases annually,” he said. “The move gives us the capacity to organically produce world-class cool-climate varietals as well as the classic Hunter styles. Tamburlaine is now set as a big player in a relatively small organic pond.” Tamburlaine started out in an old tin shed on a modest 14-hectare Hunter vineyard. FROM FARM TO PALATE TURNING A TRAGEDY TO TREASURE THE Farm Shed East Coast Wine Centre in Tasmania has installed CHATTO Wines, the personal Tasmanian project of winemaker Jim Enomatic Wine System units, which enable two dozen wines Chatto and his wife Daisy, suffered a major blow when smoke taint to be available at one time for tastings or sales by the glass. wrecked their 2019 vintage in the Huon Valley – along with several With 22 producers across Tasmania’s East Coast Wine Region, other producers. But Chatto moved quickly to replace fruit from one wine from every producer in the East Coast Wine Region is his Isle Vineyard and other local growers, with fruit from the north available at all times. of the state, which was unaffected by bush fires. Farm Shed proprietors Subi Mead and Helen Bain chose to make “We are pretty excited to have three “negociant” wines from up the investment in the system to further consolidate the centre’s north, being released on June 1,” Chatto said. position as the regional location to discover, experience and buy wines from across the state’s most widespread wine region. The trio will comprise Bird from the Pipers River, Marion’s from the Tamar Valley and Chatto, a blend of fruit from those “Before installing the system, we had five wines available for two sources plus some. tastings or by the glass each day,” said Mead. “Now people can come in and be confident that they can try something they’ve never tried before or compare varietals from several producers.” The Farm Shed will continue to offer guided tastings and stories behind each producer. Wine tastings at The Farm Shed are $10 per person and you can taste either five (30ml each) or 10 (15ml each) wines, equivalent to one standard drink. The Farm Shed stocks around 90 wines from across the region, all available by the bottle or to mix-and-match into cases which can be shipped across Australia or internationally via the on-site Licensed Post Office. The Farm Shed East Coast Wine Centre is at 53a Burgess Street, Bicheno, Tasmania. GROWING ORGANICALLY TAMBURLAINE Organic Wines has added to its holdings with the purchase of the former Cumulus winery facility at Cudal in Central West New South Wales. Tamburlaine managing director and winemaker Mark Davidson said the expansion will cement the future of the company and the industry. “The Cudal winery was originally purpose-built two decades ago to support a major expansion of the region’s wine production while offering extra services to local vignerons and winemakers,” Davidson said. 10 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

briefs \"We selected the location for our development due to its ideal positioning, close to world-class attractions including the Australian National Maritime Museum, the International Convention Centre (ICC), the Sydney Fish Market, Cockle Bay Wharf, King Street Wharf and Barangaroo.” The new hotel will join an international network of Aidens across France, Germany, South Korea and the US. For more information visit www.bestwestern.com. BEAST OF A PRE-MIX NEW ARTISAN OFFERINGS KRAKEN Black Spiced Rum is now available in Australia in pre- THE select group of Artisans of Barossa has welcomed two mix formats with the release of Kraken & Dry and Kraken & Cola. new labels to the fold. Kraken is named after a mythical beast from the Caribbean. It was introduced to the market in 2010. The base rum is from Trinidad, Mark Slade and Craig Stansborough from Purple Hands Wines and distilled from naturally sweet molasses made from locally grown John and James Lienert from Lienert Vineyards join founder members sugar cane. The rum is aged 1–2 years and then blended with Hobbs of Barossa Ranges, John Duval Wines, Spinifex Wines, Schwarz a mix of 11 spices, including cinnamon, ginger and clove. The Wine Company and Sons of Eden. Each of the seven Artisans of liquid is black, revealing hints of brown when held up to the light. Barossa winemakers is an independent, family-owned business. The premixes are sold in premium glass bottles and are available retails for $27 for a four-pack. \"During discussions with both wineries through 2019, it was plain to see they were obviously aligned to the philosophy that binds the NEW HOTEL FOR DARLING HARBOUR Artisans winemakers together,\" the group said on its Facebook page. THE Best Western hotel group, along with property developer \"There is a love of all things Barossa, a hands-on approach iHHL, will launch Australia's first Aiden hotel in Sydney later to making wine and an unwavering commitment to authenticity this year. Aiden by Best Western @ Darling Harbour will be in the art of small-batch winemaking.\" opening in late 2020. The 88-room, eight-storey property will include a café, bar and retail shop on the ground floor, BWH Purple Hands' breakthrough moment came at last year's Barossa Hotel Group Australasia Managing Director Graham Perry and wine show where from 11 entries they were awarded eight gold medals iHHL's Nicolas Chen announced. and two trophies including the Chairman's Trophy and the Trophy for Best Small Producer. They source fruit predominantly from the “Where better to open our first Aiden to Australasia than in the centre southern Barossa around Williamstown and Lyndoch, and specialise of Sydney's iconic leisure precinct, Darling Harbour?” says Perry. in both traditional Barossa varietals like shiraz and grenache and Italian varietals such as aglianico, montepulciano and negroamaro. “We're delighted to be partnering with iHHL, who are undertaking the conversion of an iconic Sydney building John and James Lienert's family settled on the Barossa's which will become a superb lifestyle hotel offering high-quality, western ridge in the second half of the 19th century, and affordable accommodation for modern travellers.” since 2001 the brothers have been establishing vineyards and supplying a number of Barossa's best winemakers with quality Aiden by Best Western @ Darling Harbour will be in a refurbished fruit. In 2016, they decided to begin making wine from their 1930s Art Deco building located on the western side of Darling personal selection of some of the best blocks on the estate to Harbour, directly opposite the pedestrian Pyrmont Bridge and near sell under the Lienert Vineyards and Jack West labels. to the entrance of the Harbourside shopping complex. Wines from all seven artisan producers are featured in the Wine “We're bringing a touch of Parisian-style hospitality and class Room at the rear of Vino Lokal in Murray Street, Tanunda. The to Darling Harbour, featuring well-appointed rooms that focus on Wine Room is open every day from noon. Construction on a new the amenities and facilities sought by today's travellers – including Barossa home for the Artisans will start soon. media connectivity and plentiful workspace in our high-end custom designed compact rooms,\" says Chen. \"The end result will be an eminently affordable Sydney CBD-fringe stay in a busy, well located and highly popular precinct. “Darling Harbour has developed from its historical roots as wharves and industrial warehouses to become a vibrant residential, commercial and entertainment hub. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs A TRUE BAROSSA CELLAR NOT SO DIRTY SECRET THE Barossa Cellar – the new regional showpiece – opened its BRISBANE has a new rooftop bar - and its first Turkish shisha doors for the first time in March with a temperature controlled bar - with the opening of Dirty Sultan at the TRYP Fortitude Valley wine cellar, stacked with thousands of bottles of some of the most Hotel. The boutique hotel was recently named one of Australia's highly regarded Australian wines, all set to be aged for at least best art hotels by Traveller Magazine. a decade before they are opened. “TRYP once more has its own place to watch the sun set over In 2011, the wine fraternity Barons of Barossa stepped up the city,” said hotel general manager Jason Pratt. \"Our guests and and launched the concept of a Barossa Cellar, putting a call hotel staff alike are very excited by this distinctive new addition to out to the region’s winemakers for donations of their top wines. our rooftop and Brisbane's bar scene.” The response was overwhelming, reinforcing the Barons’ determination to make such a cellar a reality. In 2014, the wine The Turkish-inspired rooftop bar will focus on hand-crafted fraternity purchased a 2.9-hectare parcel of elevated land, with cocktails, along with dishes like meze plates based on classic a wide vista overlooking the Barossa Valley. Turkish recipes with a modern twist. Shisha pipes are also known as also known as water pipes or hookahs. The concept of The Barossa Cellar continued to take shape over the ensuing years, along with a massive fundraising campaign. Ground “Dirty Sultan brings a unique point of difference to Brisbane with was finally broken in April 2018 and now the facility is a stunning reality. Mediterranean-inspired food and cocktails paired with great music Louisa Rose, chairman of the TBC committee and Grand Master of and a rooftop lounge ambiance,\" said Dirty Sultan owner Dilan Ildes. Barons of Barossa, spearheaded the original launch of the concept and has been a driving force of the TBC committee ever since. \"We have found the perfect match in TRYP, an award-winning art hotel, whose guests appreciate unique and authentic city experiences.” “This is a dream come true for Barossa winemakers,” she said. “To have a repository of wine from each vintage cellared to their peak is TRYP by Wyndham hotels can be found in the heart of some of the something any great wine region strives for. It is an absolute pleasure world's most exciting cities, from bucket-list staples like Jerusalem, to be part of a group that fosters this level of community spirit.” Dubai, Barcelona and New York City to up-and-coming destinations. The Barossa Grape & Wine Association now calls TBC home. Having TRYP Fortitude Valley, features striking street art and murals by street the region’s peak industry body in situ underpins the ethos of the site artists Magee, Numskull, Rone and Beastman. Each floor has been as the home of Barossa wine. James March, CEO of BGWA said: “This decorated by one of these artists and the hotel offers a selection of stunning, purpose-built facility will enable us to easily showcase the room types ranging from private courtyards to internal spa rooms and best of Barossa and Eden Valley Wines to the world. The opportunities themed artist rooms. Fortitude Valley, once an area to be avoided, is to use the site to its full potential are inspiring.” now a hot spot for clubbing, bars, restaurants and live music. The Barons, together with BGWA, will curate the regional cellar, For details and a special offer visit www.trypbrisbane.com or drawing on the wealth of winemaking knowledge within their phone (07) 3319 7888. membership. Winemaker Stephen Henschke said: “We have the oldest vines in the world that are planted in ancient soils and a long history of winemaking that can be traced to the early days of settlement in South Australia. This is a wonderful opportunity to have a continuous showcase of the diversity and authenticity of wine from the Barossa’s two great regions – Eden Valley and Barossa Valley.” Barossa wineries have donated wines to TBC since 2011. These wines are cellared until they reach their optimum age and then released for events such as master classes and wine tastings. 12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

briefs GIN NATIVE The award recognizes a winemaker who has made a significant contribution to the industry, producing wines that exhibit the regionality MEET a unique gin with authentic Australian flavours. of Barossa grapes, and generously shares their knowledge with others. Underground Spirits, the most-awarded distillery in Canberra, has partnered with the Australian National Botanic Gardens to Former winemaker of the year and the Barons’ newly elected create Ad Crescendum Native Gin. Grand Master, Louisa Rose, said: “Stuart Bourne is one of the great characters of the Barossa. He is a long-term thinker, always putting Ad Crescendum, which means \"to grow\" was created with the region front and centre. Since he arrived, he has embraced specially foraged native botanicals grown in the garden in everything Barossa, with strong, positive contributions to the wine celebration of the gardens’ 50th Anniversary year in 2020. industry and to the greater Barossa community.” “Last year, Underground Spirits and the Australian National Botanic “Some people say that gold medals make a winemaker, but to Gardens agreed to work together to create a gin that was really be recognised by your peers as Barossa Winemaker of the Year something special,” said Underground Spirits CEO, Claudia Roughley. in Australia’s best wine region is truly the greatest accolade a Barossa winemaker can achieve,” he responded. “We were so privileged to be given access to truly wondrous botanicals.\" Managing Director of Soul Growers, Paul Heinicke was delighted to hear his colleague and friend had received such a prestigious honour. The name Ad Crescendum is a nod to the many precious plants and flowers grown, nurtured and protected at the Australian “Stuart is a true, genuine ambassador for the Barossa,” he said. National Botanic Gardens. The native gin features botanicals from “He works tirelessly to promote the region, and his passion is all over Australia sourced from the gardens including banksia, infectious. He is a very worthy recipient of this award.” For more finger lime, rainforest aniseed, white aspen and yam daisy. info visit www.soulgrowers.com. “Being able to crack open precious seeds, leaves and bark that had been meticulously collected from the gardens and then given into our care; to see the vivid colours of the leaves being extracted into fluid, then distilled to create pure clear flavours is something we can all be very proud of and that we know many will enjoy,” Roughley said. Peter Feilen, Horticulturalist at the Australian National Botanic Gardens, said: “We have a hugely diverse collection of native species in our living collection, with seeds and cuttings sourced from every corner of Australia.\" Underground Spirits’ Ad Crescendum Gin is now available to purchase online from www.undergroundspirits.com.au, and from select retailers in Canberra. RRP $95. Part of the profits from the gin help support native plant conservation activities by the Australian National Botanic Gardens. BAROSSA BOURNE IDENTITY STUART Bourne, a Barossa winemaking icon over the past two decades, was named as 2020 Barossa Winemaker of The Year. Formerly of Barossa Valley Estates and then Chateau Tanunda, Bourne has spent the past five years at Soul Growers. The announcement was made at the annual Declaration of Vintage celebration held in Tanunda and was presented by the Barons of Barossa fraternity. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs and Melbourne's savvy early adopters who are renowned for having their finger on the pulse. “Guests today are looking for travel experiences that excite the senses and they want to stay in places where they feel connected to the heart of their destination.\" SO/Melbourne is being developed by MIT Group Holdings Pty Ltd, the property arm of private tertiary educational institute, Melbourne Institute of Technology. An existing heritage building will be retained and incorporated into the lower level design to reflect the diverse history of the site. The hotel will feature a signature club lounge and private meeting room, specialty restaurant/bar and sky deck, all-day dining and outdoor terrace, lobby lounge/café, and a ballroom. Wellness facilities will include a SO/SPA and SO/FIT wellness and fitness centre as well as a swimming pool. SO FAR SO/ GOOD LEGENDARY WATERING HOLE ACCOR has announced the Australian debut of its SO/Hotels VICTORIA’S oldest family owned winery and vineyard is & Resorts luxury brand in Melbourne. With an opening date celebrating its 160th anniversary in 2020 Tahbilk aims to make in 2023, SO/Melbourne aims to be a \"bold, fashionable and a noise about the milestone. Established in 1860 and situated luxurious designer hotel\" located in a prime CBD position in the Nagambie Lakes region of Victoria, the name Tahbilk overlooking Flagstaff Gardens. means \"place of many waterholes\". The hotel will be within close reach of Melbourne's key Tahbilk’s water system is a vital contributor to the viticultural commercial, retail and leisure attractions and will be the first SO/ conditions that exist on the estate, creating a unique and branded hotel for Australia and second in the region following valuable mesoclimate. As custodians of some of the oldest SO/Auckland. shiraz vines in the world, planted in 1860, Tahbilk plays an important role in the preservation of Australia, and the globe’s, It will have 288 guest rooms and suites, some with outdoor vinous history. Tahbilk’s contribution to its local community and terraces. It will be part of a mixed-use development including the broader wine community is unquestioned and as an iconic 20,000sqm of office and co-working space. destination, Tahbilk continues to be a beacon for wine tourism. Simon McGrath, Chief Operating Officer Pacific, Accor, says: An ongoing plan to extend and develop its tourism experience “The demand for quality luxury hotels is at an all-time high, so with upgrades to its cellar door and vineyard experiences are the timing is right to introduce Australia to the audacious and approved and happening right now. Tahbilk’s commitment to fashionable SO/ Hotel brand. the environment and sustainability remain at the forefront of the Purbrick family’s ethos. They have overseen the redevelopment “SO/Melbourne will bring a bold and playful energy to of the internal wetlands precinct over the past 25 years at a Melbourne, blending the brand's vibrant luxury services with substantial financial investment by the family. the heart and soul of the destination. This flagship hotel will be the place to be seen to socialise, appealing to chic travellers Tahbilk has also been accredited as a CarboNZero operation since 2012 and this obvious passion for the environment continues under the keen eye of fifth-generation Purbrick, Hayley. With a year of domestic and international activity planned to celebrate their 160th milestone, the family also has an eye to 2025 which will herald a century of Purbrick family ownership, another significant anniversary on the horizon. Current CEO and fourth-generation family member Alister Purbrick said, “We are delighted to celebrate our 160th 14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

briefs anniversary in 2020 and have a full year of activities planned. be well-versed in many of the dog-friendly activities on offer \"Family, our wines and a sense of place are at the heart of our around the city, including Tom and Captain who guide dogs on adventurous walks around Melbourne, and Gourmet Pawprints story as we look ahead to 2025 as our next big milestone. Our who offer pup-friendly experiences such as Paws and Pours 160th anniversary gives a respectful nod to the past and a view High Tea and Doggy Winery Tours. Happy times for pampered to the future as we transition the next generation of Purbrick hounds. For further information about Citadines on Bourke family members to the forefront of our proud family brand.” Melbourne, please visit www.citadines.com. Hayley Purbrick, fifth-generation family member, has overseen Tahbilk’s environmental strategy in her role as the Environment, Business Improvement and Digital Content Manager. “I’m incredibly proud of my family’s immense contribution to the Australian wine landscape and we take this knowledge and experience forward into this fast-moving and modern age,\" she said. \"I look forward to our next chapter with all the passion and enthusiasm of my forebears. Bring it on!” See www.tahbilk.com. au for more information. FUR-FRIENDLY HOSPITALITY CANINES and their human companions are now welcome to stay in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD with Citadines on Bourke Melbourne transforming into a dog-friendly retreat, complete with a rooftop courtyard where pups can stretch their legs. Having recently welcomed four-legged guests to a selection of apartments at Somerset on Elizabeth Melbourne, The Ascott Limited has decided to spread the doggy joy to a sister property. Positioned in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD and comprised of spacious apartments with separate living and dining areas, Citadines on Bourke Melbourne offers guests and their pups a city base to stretch out, relax and explore the city’s many sights and sounds at an affordable price. Four-legged guests will be catered for with a bed fitted for the furry traveller, water and food bowls, and a welcome pack including treats, toys and a special gift. Pups on their first city-break will get a true taste of the high life, experiencing their very own New York moment at the aparthotel’s rooftop courtyard. Back on ground level, dogs will also have plenty of opportunity for exercise with neighbouring parks in Carlton and Fitzroy Gardens both within close walking distance. The guest services team will May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 15

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY A TAINTED FUTURE? OR JUST SMOKE AND MIRRORS? THIS past vintage will be remembered their vineyards due to having different o-cresol, m-cresol, p-cresol, Syringol, 4 for a long time. On-going drought, raging variables such as topography and methyl-syringol and 4 methyl-guaiacol. fires, smoke taint and finally the damage grapes planted,” comments Angus. They are converted to a bound form of done to business by the Coronavirus the phenols called glycoside and once in have all created an anus horribilis. Not Part of the Hunter Valley were severely the grape they are undetectable. Grape many regions escaped either the direct affected by taint. The industry was taken juice can be analysed for both free and impact of fires or the smoke. According by surprise when Bruce Tyrrell put out a bound phenols to predict the presence of to the New South Wales Wine Industry’s press release in January saying that 80% smoke taint, but it is only when the juice is Executive Officer, Angus Barnes, the Hunter, of his Hunter production had been lost fermented that they come to the surface Mudgee and Hilltops regions has seen due to smoke taint. It seems that vineyards and is recognised as smoke taint with the ‘around half’ of its production impacted close to the Brokenback and Mount View aid of sensory evaluation. Grape growers by smoke. As one would expect, the worst Ranges were most affected, whilst those have had to wait until close to ripeness to be affected regions were closer to the fire. They away from the hills, in say the Lovedale able to get their juice and a micro ferment include the Shoalhaven Coast, Southern area, were less affected. tested by one of only two laboratories Highlands, Tumbarumba, Canberra District in Australia that are set up to tackle the and Hastings River. Fortunately, the Riverina, The effects and research problem. Imagine the nervous wait of Murray Darling, Perricoota and Swan nurturing your grapes to maturity knowing Hill regions did not receive any damage, into smoke taint is only that smoke from months ago might have whilst Cowra and Orange recorded a low already ruined a whole year’s work. Testing amount of taint. However, to put this all into just being explored, is done by a Gas Chromatography and perspective only 30,000 tonnes of grapes results are measured in micrograms (UG) have been affected out of a NSW crush of but there are clearly a per kilograms. As a generalisation, below 500,000 tonnes. The damage in Victoria was 25-50 UG is suggested to be ok, borderline to the east, especially in parts of Gippsland number of variables that is around 50 to 150 and anything above is and North East Victoria. In South Australia rated in the high range of smoke taint, but the fires caused havoc in the Adelaide Hills. have an impact on the this does depend on variables most notably the different grape varietals. The effects and research into smoke damage smoke can taint is only just being explored, but Some grape varieties are more susceptible there are clearly a number of variables do to vines. to smoke taint than others. Thick-skinned that have an impact on the damage varieties survive better, so pinot noir is more smoke can do to vines. The intensity It was thought that the developmental affected than say shiraz. Red grapes are and distance from the fire, the prevailing stage that the grapes were in when affected more than white grapes, due to weather conditions and the duration exposed to smoke was important, but now them spending more time in contact with of the event, will all have an impact on doubt has been thrown into that thinking. their skins. It is thought that more smoke the concentration of smoke. The type Originally, the danger period was after taint characters come out with bottle age. of fuel that is being burnt can have an veraison (when the grape colour changes impact on the compounds in the smoke, and the berries begin to swell) right through In Victoria, there are trials underway of a some are worse than others. Then there to harvest. But in this season grapes have smoke detection system that might solve the is the topography of the vineyard area. been affected pre-veraison as well. waiting game. Early detection is crucial. If “I know of one medium sized business this is successful then vignerons will save that had to do around forty tests across Volatile phenols found in smoke do all money on netting, pruning, spraying and the damage. These include Guaiacol, harvesting what is already a damaged 16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au crop. Other research is looking at remedial GIFTSUBSCRIPTION action using activated carbon products and enzymes to use on infected grapes and Tel: 08 8357 9277 wine. Whilst a third project in South Australia www.winestate.com.au is looking at in-canopy misting to reduce the damage of smoke on grapes. Some of the characteristics we see from smoke affected wines is a burnt or ashtray character, as well as aromas as varied as salami and disinfectant. Not surprisingly, there are some correlations between the flavours of charred wood of a toasted barrel and smoke taint. So, what happens to ruined grapes? Well they aren’t picked. One producer I spoke to was buying more sheep to let them graze on the crop. Alternatively, you could try and make it into Brandy. Hartzview Vineyard dealt with the smoke taint from the devastating 2019 fires that ripped through the Huon Valley in Tasmania by putting their wine into a still. The industry is working in unison to learn from this vintage says Barnes, “We have learnt a lot from the past and continue to work constantly with the NSW State Government, NWGIC (National Wine Grape Industry Centre at CSU) and the AWRI. Small batch fermentations of low, medium and high smoke taint wines are being made to catalogue and use in future research. In June this year, we will invite NSW wineries to submit samples of 2020 vintage wines so a panel of experts can assess them. The industry is resilient, there will be some great wines made in the 2020 vintage, which follows on from the excellent 2019 vintage and our message is to get out to the regions and support local wineries”. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING PHILADELPHIA REDUX - BEST EATING CITY ON THE EAST COAST PHILADELPHIA is less than two hours by museums in the world, a major annexe is Zahav: A World of Israeli Cuisine. Hailed train from New York, bypassing the traffic the Rodin Museum, the largest collection as a genius of modern Jewish cooking, snarls of getting to JFK airport and the of the sculptor's work outside France. Solomonov's menu veers from mezze need to get there hours before your flight Nearly everyone we met on our visit to small plates such as grilled duck hearts takes off. There's no better time to visit the the east coast almost made us promise with green tomato and crispy garlic and City of Brotherly Love, which is temporarily not to miss the Barnes Foundation. How mushroom schnitzel to mains including changing its nickname in 2020 to celebrate right they were. The museum's collection lamb merguez with beet-pickled turnips the centenary of women's suffrage in the of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and and hangar steak with walnut muhammara US. But whatever the gender of its title, Modernist art is estimated to be worth and pickled pepper. currently the City of Sisterly Love to use its US$25 billion and includes 181 paintings Twitter hashtag, Philly has plenty to offer by Renoir, 69 by Cezanne, 46 by Picasso, Philadelphia has made such a boisterous visitors for a stay of 5 days to a week. 59 by Matisse and much more. comeback in the past decade that many are declaring it's become the best food city on For starters, the city is home to \"the Philadelphia has made the US east coast. Rittenhouse Square, with most historic square mile in America\". It its almost European-style look, hosts The takes an entire day at least to do justice such a boisterous Love, a contemporary designer bolthole to Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell from the multi-talented Stephen Starr, who Center and Betsy Ross's house to track comeback in the past presides over 20 restaurants in his home the heritage of the cradle of the American town and seven in New York. American Revolution. Philadelphia also boasts the decade that many are classics such as buttermilk fried chicken, first and best African-American museum spicy Mississippi sauce and Parker House in the US, as befits the town that had the declaring it's become the rolls are re-invented to perfection. Michael largest free black population during the war Solomonov has also opened an Israeli- of independence. best food city on the US inspired bakery-cum-cafe, Z'Far, close by for traditional favourites like chocolate The city's architectural landscape is east coast. babka and more hearty listings such as foie gobsmacking from the massive industrial gras toast with date molasses and Persian boomtime buildings on Market Street to the In recent years Philadelphia has also lamb shank with pickled rose petals. oldest continuously occupied houses in become a foodie mecca with a culinary America. We took an architectural walking scene stretching from Michelin-starred Brandon McRill, who once helmed the tour led by the Preservation Alliance for chefs to its famous homegrown speciality Michelin-starred Rebelle in New York, Greater Philadelphia, which weaved past - the Philly cheesesteak. Last year, Zahav, a operates the Walnut Street Cafe, where the grandeur of Rittenhouse Square, restaurant focusing on Israeli cuisine, took brunch is an art form. Open all day, it is Society Hill and Chestnut Hill. out the prestigious James Beard Award a design vision of marble tables and lush for America's most outstanding restaurant. blooms, an the standout speciality is fried The 72 steps leading up to the Philadelphia eggs with black scrapple, a rif on a Philly Museum of Art, a.k.a the Rocky Steps made Located in Society Hill, Zahav opened favourite made from pork scraps. Other famous in the blockbuster movie, is the its doors in 2008 and head chef, Michael places that have taken a great idea and run least interesting thing about a visit to this Solomonov, is a culinary superstar and with it include Middle Child, a lunch hotspot grand repository of nearly 250,000 objects author of the best-selling cookbook, filled with merchandise from the Eagles and paintings, beginning with major works football team and showcasing sandwiches by El Greco, Bosch, Renoir, Van Gogh, such as the Phoagie - a Vietnamese twist Picasso and Monet. One of the largest art 18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. on the trad Philly sandwich. Ramen seems truffle cheese, caramelised onions and Winestate Magazine to have taken over the world and one of cherry pepper mayo. @WinestateEd the best places to enjoy the craze is Cheu Fishtown. Based in an old horse stable, Pat's King of Steaks claims to have there's a vast beer list and eye-catching invented the cheesesteak, which is murals that form a slick backdrop for celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. expertly made originals such as brisket Nearby rival, Geno's Steaks, begs to ramen with kimchi and matzo balls. differ and says it added the cheese to Pat's steak sandwich. In another rivalry, French is on-trend again worldwide as Chubby's vies with Geno's and says its well. Christopher Kearse, who formerly beef is more flavourful because it doesn't owned Will, the beloved French bistro in chop the beef as finely. South Philly, has opened Forsythia in the city's Old Town. Instead of slavish copies, Philadelphia is awash with biergartens, there's plenty of whimsy on the menu craft breweries, posh cocktail bars and from crab and leek beignets with Old Bay hidden dives. Start with McGillin's Old Ale rouille to halibut with Champagne, Napa House, the oldest continuously operating Cabbage and citrus. tavern in town. Opened in 1860, the house beers are the way to go from 1860 IPA to You can't miss Philly Cheesesteak. Fridge the Real Lager. It's like walking into a movie magnets depicting the super-sized treat are and everyone is welcome from young everywhere. As you would expect, there's professionals to retirees. hot competition to offer the best version and, as a visitor, you really need to sort Fishtown is one of the hippest the wheat from the chaff. A clear favourite neighbourhoods for eating, strolling and is Dalessandro's and their interpretation drinking. Philadelphia Distilling is a bar/ is crammed with finely chopped rib eye lounge and production facility housed steak, just the right amount of cheese and in a 1950s metal factory. Gin is the thing chunky-cut onions. and comes in three Bluecoat varieties - American Dry, Barrel Finished and Sonny's Famous Steaks in Old Town Elderflower - or go wild with the Vieux Carre is the venue most favoured by tourists absinthe. Johnny Brenda's is a Fishtown because of its location close to the city's institution and hasn't bothered to gussy up main attractions. That's no bad thing, its weather-beaten facade. Part gastro-pub, though, because it looks authentic and part music venue and part family sports the cheesesteaks are good. We stayed hangout, there's local brews on tap and near the original Ishkabibble's on South cocktails featuring locally-made spirits. Street, which has been in business for 40 years, and it may seem like overload but The other unforgettable aspect of order the cheese fries on the side. Also Philadelphia is its murals. To date, the city in South Street, you'll find Woodrow's has spawned 4000 in total, including the Sandwich Shop which takes the concept only Keith Haring in situ in the US. A great upmarket with shaved rib eye, homemade sight to see, even when it isn't sunny in Philadelphia. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 19

20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

DIVERSIFICATION IS KEY From coffee, cheese and gourmet foods through to accommodation, weddings and wine – Nikola Estate and Oakover has a recipe for success. MIKE ZEKULICH IT DID not take long for Graeme Yukich, emerging star of the old Houghton and close to the home which was once the residence WA wine industry, to realise there was more money to be made of the wine and cricketing Mann family, during which time they did from coffee than wine. so much to promote and honour the wines of the Swan as well as the sport (cricket) they loved. The combined wine grape vineyards The 57-year-old chartered accountant runs a family operation with of Nikola and Oakover are now more than 100 hectares making it a range of interests including coffee, cheese, gourmet foods and of one of the biggest producing properties in the area. course wine. He and younger brother Kim, backed by semi-retired father Mark, work under the labels Oakover and Nikola Estates – Reflecting on the many times he had ridden his bicycle or situated in the heart of the Swan Valley, just 18 km from the Perth driven his car past Houghton and Oakover, Graeme turned his CBD. The latest acquisition, now known as Nikola Estate, was once thoughts again to coffee. the iconic Houghton recognised around Australia and overseas for its magnificent table and fortified wines. “We are now one of the biggest State importers of green coffee beans,” he said. The Yukich’s aren’t saying how much was paid for Houghton. Previously, they had purchased the State Government vine and “I wanted to bring a business to the Swan and agriculture-based grape research station at Upper Swan. It is understood funding coffee had many similarities to wine. from its sale to leading WA property developer Nigel Satterley provided the bulk of the money. “There is a lot of upscale in value to coffee while you cannot do that much with a bottle of wine. And you get paid for the coffee Some 1500 blocks and associated facilities especially for quality straight away otherwise it is a case of no coffee, no café. With wine, living, are expected to be part of the ultimate establishment of a you are lucky if you get paid in 90 days. So, the economics of the new family suburban project north of Perth. coffee industry are far better than the wine industry.” In the sale of Houghton, the previous owners, the private equity Deal-maker Graeme is always on the lookout for an opportunity company Accolade, decided it wanted to keep the famous label and watches with pride at young married couples choosing a leaving the Yukichs with no choice but to seek something new. The ‘small island on a feature lake setting’ at the family’s Oakover Estate decision of Nikola in fact, honours Graeme’s grandfather, a Croatian restaurant for their wedding photographs. immigrant who arrived in WA in 1924 as a 16-year-old, to settle. It is also a sign for travellers on the nearby busy Great Northern The name is now proudly displayed on a sign near the entry to Highway that there is a lot more expansion left in the various venues of Yukich investment. Indeed, the Blue Cow Cheese purchase sees May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 21

“The combined wine grape vineyards of Nikola and Oakover are now more than 100 hectares making it one of the biggest producing properties in the area.” 22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

Nikola Estate now the dollar turnover leader of the Yukich stable Certainly, his ambitious tourism plans are backed by the WA generated largely by its distribution to most of Perth’s leading Government and the public, to help that happen. Visitors for entertainment facilities. example will be attracted to the old stables to see how well they have been restored for administration purposes. Graeme’s attention is now turned to the rich history and colour of Nikola which is protected by Heritage Listing. So will the story of noted bushranger Moondyne Joe who was caught one-night robbing wine only to run into the arms of two Graeme admits there is a lot to be done on the old Houghton stunned policemen as he sought to escape. property, but the big man is up for the challenge. A national search for quality staff led the Yukich family to Dr “There is so much here for people to come and see, to stroll Tony Robinson, the former head of Treasury Wines Grape and around and relax in,” he said. Wine Innovation. Near us was the old winery, cellar door sales and shady picnic His main task will be to oversee the group’s liquor division as CEO. area embracing the pleasure of peace for the many visitors “To make the operation viable, we have to process over 5000 expected to reconnect with the Queen of the Swan. tonnes of grapes a year,” Graeme said. “That is achievable. We plan to return the place to a leading WA Numerous leaders of society from near and far have sipped a hospitality centre and that too, is achievable.” Chablis under the tall pine tree marking the administration and Something quite different for the future will be a chapel built in winemaking centre. the chardonnay block that vehicles pass by on the way into Nikola which will dovetail into planned accommodation, for any visitor, And there will be no shortage of product to worry about. The including those attending high profile concerts at the venue. massive cellars have almost nine million litres of storage to provide for every need. Graeme believes the rich, colourful history of old Houghton belongs to the property. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 23

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS DESPITE the clear downturn of Hong Now a short hop from Spain to Italy, the a hearty prawn wonton pot with an Kong’s restaurant and bar scene at newly opened LucAle offers premium the beginning of this year, the city’s Italian dishes in the relaxed setting of unforgettable soup base. folk are known for their resilience and Sai Ying Pun. Headed up by two of Italian green shoots are appearing to mark the fine-dining’s most well-known chefs – While these dishes may seem a little changing of the seasons. Alessandro Angelini (who most recently led the kitchen at Shangri-La’s Angelini) heavy for Hong Kong’s high humidity Just in from the team behind trendy and Luca De Berardinis (of Conrad tapas bar, Pica Pica, Rubia pays tribute fame) – patrons can look forward to a season, the renowned claypot rice to all things beef - albeit the best cuts hearty meal of pasta, seafood and prime from the revered Galician Blond cattle cuts of Italian meat, washed down with a gets supercharged with preserved that graze the pastures in northwest selection of biodynamic wines sourced Spain. All dishes are served with hand- straight from Italy. sausages and salted egg yolk, paired cut patatas fritas, sweet smoked piquillo peppers and mustard greens and steak Menu highlights include the indulgent with steamed pork ribs and pumpkin. lovers will definitely meet their match. Cappelletti Di Bolognese Bianca filled with white Bolognese sauce topped Don’t forget to order the usual array of For smaller bites, try the tapas dishes with Parmigiano Reggiano crumble, of ‘huevos rotos’ – broken fried eggs alongside Chitarrino Al Tartufo Nero, dim sum, including steamed pork ribs, mixed with chorizo or morcilla and consisting of spaghettini with black perched on Rubia’s homemade fries truffle, pecorino cheese and walnut black sesame rolls, baked abalone and or the spicy potato and beef bomba – breadcrumbs. Dessert-wise, you can’t go stuffed mashed potato balls. Head to too far wrong with the Nutella Broken Pie, chicken pastry and baked bird’s nest the bar downstairs for a drop of Rioja, served with strawberries and lychees. cheese and charcuterie or make a LucAle, Shop a, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying egg tart. Dim Sum Bar, Shop No. G01A, beeline for their cocktails, such as the Pun, phone: +852 3611 1842. Rubia Old Fashioned. Rubia, UG/F and G/F, Nina Mall 1, 8 Yeung Uk Road, Tsuen 1/F, C Wisdom Centre, 35-37 Hollywood As if Hong Kong didn’t have enough Road, Central, phone: +852 2889 1199, dim sum joints. But head out of Central Wan, phone: +852 2633 5099; www. www.rubia.hk. towards Tseun Wan and you’ll find cafedecogroup.com. expertly crafted Cantonese dim sum Top: Food from Lucale restaurant. and contemporary Above right: Food from Rubia restaurant. Chinese dishes in Below left: Food from Dim Sum Bar restaurant. the newly opened Dim Sum Bar in Nina Mall. Specialising in hot pot and claypot, Dim Sum Bar offers super traditional Chinese dishes such as fish maw and chicken pot, shrimp wonton and chicken pot and 24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

STAY AT HOME AND DRINK WINE. SHOW YOUR SUPPORT TO THE WINE INDUSTRY, ORDER WINE AND GET IT DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR. www.winestate.com.au

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING IT NEVER fails to amaze me when journalists Or, go for the fang-fresh oysters and dining room where customers can watch and writers openly admit their ignorance in mignonette dressing. Charcuterie is another the world go by. Similar to Totti's in Bondi, an article. Yet early reviews of the Marsden speciality and the share plate is served with the decor features white-washed walls and Hotel in Burwood were peppered with dry figs and toasted sourdough. a great deal of timber. comments such as – “Why Burwood?” and “A bit of a left field choice”. Thankfully, the The charcoal oven is much in use for the The wood-fired bread remains a star owners of the first new luxury boutique in the main course seafood dishes such as toothfish attraction in its second home, but the suburb are aware that Burwood has a median with corn soubise, charred shallots and chilli antipasti menu delivers the trump card. The house price in excess of $2 million. It's also oil and eastern rock lobster in seaweed butter. 20-plus options veer from pickled octopus one of the major hubs of Sydney's Chinese Following two recent restaurant visits where through scampi, garlic and seaweed butter, community and the location of some of the the servings were so small we left feeling zucchini, mint and pinenut pangrattato, grandest Victorian and Federation homes in hungry after spending more than $200, the duck hearts, grapes and radicchio and the city, starting with the Appian Way where freshly-made linguini, summer vegetables beef tongue, pistachio and salsa verde. house prices exceeded $4 million before and crisp shallots hit the spot not only in terms Sydney's recent property boom. of the serving size, but the deeply-flavoured The atmosphere is buzzy, but you can sauce that lifted the dish to star status. cool things down with the two main dessert Burwood is packed with top class Asian options that have also made the trip from eateries, boasts a Westfield shopping Desserts are on the light side, as they Bondi - tiramisu and Neapolitan ice-cream centre and is only 15 to 20 minutes by rail should be, from coffee parfait to guanaja sandwiches. Naturally-oriented Italian from both the CBD and the ANZ Stadium at chocolate tart. A restraint not seen in the wines form the core of the wine list to ramp Homebush. All these facts and Burwood's wine and cocktail listings. A spectacular up the re-invented trattoria feel. affluence were on show during the Marsden meander through the world's leading wine Hotel's official opening. The 90 room, chicly- regions, which rubberstamps Burwood's Bar Totti's, 330 George Street, Sydney; designed establishment is a sister property wallet size from upmarket affordable to phone (02) 9114 7379. of the Marsden Hotel in Parramatta and bottlings such as 2017 Louis Jadot Gevrey its General Manager, David Johnston, has Chambertin at $268 a bottle. There's nothing retro about Meu Jardim, worked in Ritz-Carlton and InterContinental which means my garden in Portuguese. As hotels around the world. You don't feel as if you are in a hotel, soon as you enter, your eyes are skewered apart from the fact that the waitstaff are by 300 metres of coloured LED lights and The hotel's signature restaurant, the Onyx much better dressed than they are in the a waterfall. Supposedly taking its cue from Grill, is as sleekly fitted out as the rest of majority of trendy restaurants. A nice touch the rocky landscape of the Dordogne, the $4 the property. Design features include shiny that adds a bit of glamour to a date night or million fit-out looks like something from Lost in black surfaces that mimic its namesake seriousness to a corporate meal. Our fellow Space - the current Netflix series. Open until gemstone, emerald-covered seating and diners were a snapshot of Burwood's main 3 a.m., the French-inspired eatery is part of old wooden sleepers from the original \"tribes\". Young Asian gourmets and old the Skye Suites development, a residential Anzac Bridge. American-born chef, Jeffrey money Anglos, whose forebears built the and hotel tower designed by new generation Forrest, earned his chops at the SoHo suburb's heritage-listed grand mansions architect, Koichi Takada. Grand and Plaza Hotel in New York and the such as The Priory, St Cloud and Lynton. If uber-glamorous Anse Chastanet Resort in you still want more, the rooftop Skye Bar has The dramatic premises span two levels to the Caribbean. The exceptional wine list is a Champagne and oyster bar and delivers accommodate 340 customers and there's a the work of F&B operations manager, Joe panoramic views of the CBD skyline. firepit amid the shiny glacier-like surfaces. Chen (ex-Luke Mangan's Luke's Kitchen). Owner Ussi Minis Da Silva and chef The Onyx Grill, Marsden Hotel Burwood, Jason McCauley (formerly Il Bacio) don't Meat grabs centre-stage at the Onyx Grill, 60, Burwood Road, Burwood; phone (02) get too futuristic with the menu, though. equipped with a mibrasa grill and charcoal 8889 3915. Contemporary riffs such as heirloom tomato oven. Smaller meat offerings include 200g tart, fromage blanc, green olive and basil of 270-day grain-fed Angus striploin or In early 2019 Merivale opened its spiffy and wagyu tartare, brik pastry, quail yolk and 400g of 30-day aged Cape Grim grass-fed new Italian restaurant Totti's in the back Tasmanian summer truffle head the starter Angus. But if quantity and quality are your of the Royal Hotel in Bondi. Following the choices. Like the Onyx Grill, you can order a druthers, there's major cuts for two such original's roaring success, the hospitality 1.2 kilo grass-fed lamb shoulder as a main act as the 1.5 kilo 28-day dry aged Tomahawk group has launched a second version - Bar to share. Or, choose from updated favourites rib-eye or the 1.7 kilo Cowra lamb shoulder. Totti's - in the Ivy Complex in the CBD. The such as duck a l 'orange, turnip, orange gelee To ease down the succulent flesh, there's George Street location isn't a me-too but and green olive or oxtail, parsnip puree, bone a choice of four sauces from classic head chef, Mike Eggert has hooked up with marrow, watercress and burnt carrot. The bar bearnaise to Onyx wine jus. Jake Ahrens (ex-Uccello) to blend traditional is great for after work drinks - cocktails or well- favourites with more contemporary twists. selected wines by the glass. Seafood from the cold bar follows the same absolute premium standard of quality. The The venue sports two distinct spaces - a Meu Jardim, 304 Kent Street, Sydney; Hiramisu kingfish sashimi is a top choice for curved, designer-lit bar out back and a front phone 0434 633 378. a starter, sparked by edamame, watermelon and feta salad with chardonnay vinaigrette. Top: Food from Onyx Grill restaurant. 26 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS FOR nearly 20 years the Apothecary 1878 with 75ml or even smaller serves of wine. down to earth cooking. Neither a trend has remained a somewhat secretive oasis With 300 or so labels in her cellar, Paola setter nor follower, her dishes are invariably in the darkest depths of Hindley Street, interesting, well made and straightforward, winning many awards for its extraordinary Coro enjoys any opportunity to lead her generous and full of flavour. If only every wine lists curated by its remarkable owner- customers through a procession of tastes chef could do the same. manager Paola Coro. and flavours as you graze through a series of dishes such as kingfish ceviche with Start with a shared plate of prosciutto While these have perhaps been the jalapeno pepper, a wedge of iceberg with roasted peperonata, Persian feta and Apothecary’s defining feature and ensured lettuce and a citrus dressing, wedges wood oven bread and follow it with crisply its success, its cooking has also been of roast pumpkin with Persian fetta, grilled chicken breast with rendered down consistently good, while gorgeous restored zhug (a herb sauce) and macadamia caramelised shallots and crisp chat potatoes, mahogany pharmacy cabinets, originally or Portobello mushroom with cubes of or spiced barramundi with a cauliflower and from London and dating from 1878 – hence taleggio cheese and egg yolk. Basically, star anise puree and scorched spring onions. the name - line the walls. Thonet chairs, simple dishes, nothing too overworked, Good vegetarian dishes include fried haloumi solid marble tables and tumbled marble with great produce and lots of flavour. cheese with roast pumpkin salad, greens and floor tiles completed what felt like a very orange blossom butter. European bar experience. Look for special wine tastings and dinners, such as the Dinner with Cristal 2012, and a There’s also a wood-fired pizza oven in the But Coro decided it was time for a change selection of other Roederer Champagnes, kitchen, and again Seedsman keeps that and a refresh, with a new name Apoteca held in May this year. Apoteca, 118 Hindley simple with toppings ranging from a simple and a new look, with its previously frosted Street, Adelaide. Open for dinner daily. margherita to garlic prawns with tomato and front windows now inviting outsiders to peer Phone (08) 8212 9099. salsa verde. Sidewood Restaurant, 6 River in or sit at footpath tables. The 142-year- Road, Hahndorf. Open for lunch Mon, Wed- old pharmacy cabinets have gained new Many diners will have enjoyed chef Ali Sun and dinner Fri-Sat. Phone (08) 8388 1157. life with mirrored interiors lit by strip lights; Seedsman’s cooking over the years, from indeed the whole place seems to have Bathers Pavillion and Bayswater Brasseries It’s always a risk taking over a site that has gained a lighter, brighter feel to it. in Sydney to the Universal Wine Bar and seen not one but two failed ventures – Iberia Penfolds Magill Estate in Adelaide, with the and Jock Zonfrillo’s Italian wine bar Mallozi The same can be said for head chef Mirco last seven years at the popular Walk the – but with new owners who include some Ruthoff’s menu. Although he continues Talk cafe in Verdun with husband Russell of Adelaide’s most experienced hospitality to follow the tradition set by his talented “Rusty” Marchant as manager. people, Mum Cha has hit the ground running. predecessors with contemporary, wine- friendly dishes, his menu now is divided Now the pair have moved to rather more It’s a new idea, too, basically a dumpling into Ante Cibum (appetisers), Vitamins, glamorous surroundings not so far away snack shop/restaurant, rather far removed Proteins and Side Effects, with a short list at the new Sidewood Estate Restaurant from the other ventures of its owners, which of First Aid dishes at the bar. and Cellar Door, just outside Hahndorf in includes East End Cellars, Amalfi and the Adelaide Hills. It’s a major investment by Mother Vine. The key to it is Hong Kong- While the larger Protein dishes include owners Owen and Cassandra Inglis, who born chef Kwan Yi (Connie) Ying, for attractions such as a pork tomahawk steak established their wine and cider brand in 2004 whom the yum cha tradition of snacks and with spring onion and ginger sauce, or a Cape and previously operated a small tasting room tea (hence the cha) was part of daily life. Grim striploin with salsa verde, the savvy way at Maximilian’s Restaurant in nearby Verdun. to eat here is to order from the range of smaller Benches, stools and chairs are squeezed dishes and ask for them each to be paired Now on a 20ha property that’s home into a tiny space and also on the footpath to the region’s oldest apple orchard, the where the tables are overlooked by those multi-award-winning winery now produces seated along the open front window 50,000 cases of premium wine a year. bench, witnessing the passing parade. Their new cellar door seeks to cover all The yum cha-style menu is brief with bases by offering everything from VIP day eight dim sum including terrific pork and beds to petanque and lawn bowls and a cabbage pot stickers with red vinegar, kids’ nature playground. It looks good too, crisp lamb and chive wontons with a fiery with ‘cathedral-style’ Victorian Ash timber chilli oil, and pork broth-filled dumplings trusses, a fine collection of Australian with aged vinegar and ginger. artwork, a huge outdoor decked area and a two-way fireplace clad in local stone. While the shallot pancakes are irresistible, the best of the hot dishes is chicken rice with But for many the star of the show, apart ginger shallot oil and chilli paste. Given the from the wines of course, will be Seedsman’s teams wine background the wine list, though tiny, is full of interest, but the food calls out for a long neck Tsingtao beer. Mum Cha, 279 Rundle St, Adelaide. Open for lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Tues-Sat. Phone (08) 8223 2210. Top right: Dining at Sidewood Estate Restaurant. Bottom left: Pumpkin, Persian feta, zhug and macadamia from Apoteca restaurant. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 27

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 28 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 1993 $90 1991 $850  1994 $120 1992 $270 Visit our website and keep 1995 $110 1993 $240 up to date with all our latest 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  wine info, news, competitions, 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  1998 $160  1996 $260 tastings and events. 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 Become a subscriber to enter 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 into our exciting regular 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 competitions. 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 Follow us and keep up to 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 date with all our latest 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 wine info, tastings and 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 events on facebook, twitter 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 and instagram. 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 Winestate Magazine 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco @WinestateEd 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 www.winestate.com.au May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 29

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN WESTERN AUSTRALIA COASTAL FARMHOUSE VIBES or glass of wine. And even if they didn't want ROYAL REINVISIONED to wear shoes, then that's absolutely fine with MARGARET River has a totally different us, because that's what that space has been BUILT in 1882, Perth’s Royal Hotel reopened dining experience with the opening of Meelup created for.” its doors on November 16 following a Farmhouse - a country garden restaurant major renovation driven by the innovator accessed by timber archways. The new Chef Dean Williams is Liz's brother-in-law behind The Standard in Northbridge, John eatery features brunches and all-day grazing and has brought to Meelup Farmhouse a Parker. The iconic corner pub - located on along with cocktails and a range of seating relaxed homestyle dining experience. Liz's Wellington and William Streets, opposite options. Meelup Farmhouse is located at the sister Anneliese is managing the restaurant's Yagan Square – features a corner saloon on northern end of Margaret River region and is events and marketing. the street level, two bars, a private dining the brainchild of husband and wife team Liz room, karaoke room, event/function space, and Mark Ahearn, who have taken over the “Whether you are just wanting something and wraparound veranda overlooking space from Lot 80 on the Wise Wines property. light, or a substantial three-course meal, the Yagan Square on the first level. menu is diverse enough to be able to provide “Our minds just exploded with what we your choice, to share amongst large groups, The hotel's history has been retained where could do to this place,” said Liz Ahearn. or just with your partner,” Liz says. possible, with its floor-to-ceiling beams, “That's probably what Mark and I enjoy the wooden floorboards and arched windows. most: seeing something not at its greatest With Wise Winery on the back doorstep, Local craft beers are complemented by and thinking, 'How can we turn this around?' there's a range of their wine on the menu, a selection of old-school brews including complemented by a selection of wine, beer Swan Draught – a nod to a time when the “We got creative and worked through how and spirits from the Margaret River region. building was owned by the iconic Swan and what would be the best thing to go into Meelup Farmhouse is at 54 Sheens Road Brewery. The menu is pub food reimagined, that venue, what didn't work before, what did – just opposite the turn off to Castle Rock led by head chef Chase Weber from The work, and how we can make it better. And it Beach. www.meelupfarmhouse.com.au Standard and sous chef Shane Middleton, just pretty much stemmed from there.” formerly of Santini Bar & Grill at QT Perth. The on-site restaurant, Fleur, has a menu A distinct theme runs through the décor inspired by Japanese cuisine and features of Liz and Mark's ventures – popular Perth West Australian seafood and produce – with cafes Little h and The Little Bay, and now dishes featuring Abrolhos Island octopus Meelup Farmhouse. and scallops, through to Donnybrook marron, Wagin quail and Margaret River Wagyu beef. “I like things white, it's fresh and clean,” Liz The wine list is predominantly Australian, with said. “It creates a blank canvas to work with European and New Zealand influences, and for the styling of furniture, lighting and decor.\" sits alongside a small selection of sake from Timber and other natural materials are a some of Japan's favourite distillers. See www. feature, providing a relaxed vibe. theroyalhotelperth.com.au “We wanted it to feel a little bit coastal ENCHANTED EXPERIENCE because we are so close to Meelup Beach, but we also wanted to feel a little bit country, LA Forêt Enchantée is a very classy getaway a coastal farm.” for couples in Margaret River that can be booked through Private Properties. Nestled There is a bush track for diners to arrive straight from the beach to enjoy an ice cream, beer or morning coffee, or guests can book in for a long lunch and celebrate special occasions. “That's obviously something that we were very mindful of when we were designing the space,” Liz said. “We wanted to have a beautiful seated area, but we also wanted to have lounges on the lawn that allow people to come up with their dog and enjoy a coffee 30 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

travelbriefs in a forest and garden setting on the banks directly with the property's hosts. To find winning bartender Dimitri Rtshiladze's of the Margaret River, La Forêt Enchantée out more about La Forêt Enchantée and first foray into bar ownership. Located in a features a choice of two secluded private other luxury holiday homes in the Margaret basement in Perth's CBD, the 100-person bar adult sanctuaries – Il Palazzo, and La Cabine. River region, visit www.privateproperties. is built almost entirely of repurposed materials, com.au or call (08) 9750 5444. and showcases vintage hospitality history, Drawing inspiration from Italian and French with furniture and décor sourced from old architecture and design, Il Palazzo has a NEW PLACE TO WORSHIP Perth venues. The drinks list features premium stylish kitchen, dining room, his-and-hers spirits, classic and modern cocktails, and an dressing rooms with crystal chandeliers, an FREMANTLE has a new wining and dining eclectic wine list; and the bar snacks menu octagonal bedroom with a circular king-size precinct with the opening of The Old showcases cheeses, charcuterie, and a bed and fairy-tale turret, marble en-suites Synagogue at the southern entrance to rotating list of toasties. and an outdoor terrazzo bath. the Cappuccino Strip and next door to the Fremantle Markets. The Old Synagogue has Darling Darling is the latest small bar La Cabine is furnished with French antiques been transformed into a dining, bar and addition to Fremantle's West End. The and vintage treasures collected during the entertainment precinct that is home to four nautical-themed venue is designed by Perth- owners' travels. Timber panelling, a wood individual venues. It features multi-storey born bar designer Ashley Sutton, who is stove, Chesterfields and day beds create modern Asian restaurant, Tonic & Ginger; known for his extravagant designs. Located a charming atmosphere. La Cabine is also Mr Chapple's, a scenic rooftop bar focusing in a heritage-listed building, the design takes completely self-contained, with an upstairs on West Australian craft beer; a basement inspiration from an 1800's seafarer's bar - for mezzanine bedroom featuring a king-size cocktail bar L'Chaim; and The Arbor, a multi- sailors who would spend years travelling bed, and downstairs, a large open plan level beer and wine garden with an alfresco from overseas to Fremantle. Serving up a kitchen and living space with bifold doors and rooftop deck. The name pays homage selection of beer, gin, rum, negronis and Old opening out onto the garden. to the building’s history as a Jewish house of Fashioneds, the aim is to make patrons feel as worship. The 117-year-old heritage building if they've stepped below deck in an old ship. Private Properties CEO David Moyes was the first synagogue built in the state. said demand for luxurious holiday homes Dramatic Scarborough Beach – located for couples was always high in the NEW WA WATERING HOLES a 25-minute drive from Perth's CBD – has Margaret River region. recently welcomed the opening of Galway FIRST established in 2011 in the south-west Hooker. It is the first Irish pub in Perth where “Being able to offer our guests a property town of Denmark, Boston Brewing Co. has patrons can enjoy a beverage overlooking as distinctive as La Forêt Enchantée is recently opened a second venue in Perth's the Indian Ocean, the venue includes all the wonderful,” he said. “We have a generous city-fringe hub of Victoria Park. The Boston iconic trademarks of an Irish pub and features collection of luxury holiday homes for Brewery has 24 taps downstairs and eight on Australia's largest Irish whiskey selection, groups and extended families, so adding the mezzanine level, serving the brewery's full a Guinness cool room, and a food menu a special property like this, just for range of beers and special releases. Wines showcasing traditional Irish favourites. couples, is a great asset. are from south-west winery Willoughby Park, and the shared-style food menu features the STAY AT T H E FA R M E R’ S “The property was named after one of region's produce and products, with a focus HOME the owner's favourite childhood books, on pairing dishes to beer. Enid Blyton's The Enchanted Forest, and LOCATED in the heart of the picturesque it is inspired by their time living in France Located in an iconic art deco building on Avon Valley region, Northam is a tranquil and Europe.” Milligan Street in the west end of Perth's town located a 1 ½- hour drive north-east CBD, City Beer Hall brings back the old- of Perth. In 2020, the region will welcome The property is located in the heart of style beer hall. The venue's 16 beer taps the complete revitalisation of the original Margaret River wine country, close to the serve up local craft beers and international Farmer's Home Hotel – a boutique property coast and premium wineries including brews, alongside a carefully curated wine by Nigel Oakley, who also developed the Leeuwin Estate, Voyager Estate and menu and bar snacks. impressive Premier Mill hotel in Katanning. Cullen Wines, and has its own helipad Similar to the philosophy of the Premier Mill, for speedy arrival from Perth or for an Foxtrot Unicorn, meanwhile, is award- Farmer's Home Hotel will aim to bring to life indulgent winery tour. Added options the hotel and town's history and character for include in-villa private dining experiences the community and visitors. The hotel started and spa treatments which can be arranged life as a small general store back in 1860. It was Northam's first such store and de facto post office. It was until recently known as The Shamrock Hotel and then The Dome. Top left and right: Private properties La Forêt Enchantée. Opposite page top: The Royal Hotel, Perth. Opposite page bottom: Meelup Farmhouse. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 31

BEST OF THE WEST 214 TASTED OF THE WEST 163 AWARDED BEST Another excellent strike rate here showing the consistency Happs Estate RNB Pemberton of the wines of the west. Whilst we always applaud the Margaret River Hárslevelü chardonnays and cabernets from the state don't overlook the Verdelho 2018 HHHH racy rieslings (and some excellent alternative whites) as well as 2019 HHHH Different and very shiraz which is making a name for itself in the more mid-weight A tight well-made appealing. Interesting style. Also great to see the Swan Valley and Geographe wines wine offering excellent nose of nuts and honey coming back with some nice alternative varietals. drinking and has food with a complexity of friendly appeal with sweet fruit and nutty cellaring potential. savouriness. $28 SPARKLING OTHER WHITE 5+ $20 Wines of Merritt VARIETALS & Yallingup Margaret 2 TASTED BLENDS Flowstone River Vermentino 2 AWARDED Moonmilk White 2018 HHHH 17 TASTED Margaret River A complex lift of Two solid examples 13 AWARDED Savagnin Viognier herbs with lemon rind of Western Australian Gewurztraminer nuances. Smooth long sparklings. An impressive class of Sauvignon Blanc and flavoursome fruit mixed white varietals. 2019 HHHH palate. Simple but very Howard Park Petit Many of these showed Nose is an appealing enjoyable. $35 Jete Western excellent acid balance, complexity of rose Australia Sparkling good varietal fruit petals, stonefruits and Wines of Merritt Chardonnay definition and lovely some tropical notes with Yallingup Margaret NV HHH drinkability. “Well a palate bursting with River Vermentino Lovely brioche-like done!” was the judges’ fruit flavours. $22 2017 HHHH complexity to the nose unanimous comment. RNB Pemberton Attractive tropical fruit with creamy fruit driven Vermentino nose with hints of flavours. Crisp and 2018 HHHH honeyed development. youthful. $32 “A very different Pretty citrus palate and a take on vermentino!” long lingering finish. $35 Pungent spicy/ Plantagenet Wyjup Green Door Windy Creek cedary aromas and Windy Creek Estate Collection Blanc Geographe Fiano Estate Swan Valley persistent flavours Swan Valley Chenin de Blancs Mount 2019 HHHHH Vermentino with mouthwatering Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 Barker Sparkling Nose is a unique 2019 HHHH1/2 acidity. $28 Upfront fruit fragrances 2017 HHH complexity of limes A bright youthful wine with a savoury note. Lifted citrus aromas and vinaigrette with a with attractive herbal/ Candied sweetness to and lightweight palate punchy palate intense capsicum aromas and the palate; loads of fruit with green apple/ with flavour, has just some light peppery flavours. $12 lemon characters. Good the right amount of notes. Lovely salivating acidity. $45 phenolics, good acid line fruit flavours with crisp Oakover Nicholas and great aftertaste. $28 acidity to balance. $12 Signature Western Australia Verdelho 2019 HHH1/2 Aromas of pears and guavas. Warm and viscous in the mouth; a big hit of fruit flavours and soft acidity. 5+ $24 Wines of Merritt Sandalford 1840 Wilyabrup Margaret Range Swan Valley River Chenin Blanc Chenin Blanc 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH An opulent nose intense Subtle zesty lemon with toasty peach bouquet and refreshing aromas and hints of persistence of citrussy mango. A complex full flavours. 3-5 $30 flavoured palate that has weight but isn’t fat and is underscored by the acid. $40 32 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting Fermoy Estate FE Swings & RIESLING Plantagenet Western Australia Roundabouts Angevin Great Classic White Backyard Stories 15 TASTED Southern Riesling 2017 HHH Margaret River 12 AWARDED 2019 HHH1/2 A classic dry white style; Sauvignon Blanc “Flavour is extremely A crisp clean style with a all cut grass and green 2018 HHH important here with mineral edge to the nose capsicum with a green Slightly developed the better wines here and a slight spiciness to herbal edge. $19 citrus aromas. Soft in having this in droves, the palate with beautiful the mouth and showing along with high acid acid. 5+ $32 SAUVIGNON some complexity. $32 balance,” noted one BLANC judge. “Some of the Zarephath Single Flowstone Margaret half dry versions had Vineyard Great 9 TASTED River Sauvignon better sugar balance Southern Riesling 6 AWARDED Blanc 2017 HHH than the totally dry 2017 HHH1/2 An estery fumé style wines.” The judges Delicious savoury style; A solid class with with attractive oaky also commented that some development, a nice textbook varietal pungency mixing with those wines that lacked mineral edge and fresh characters. The higher the fruit. $32 ripeness in exchange citrus elements with high scoring wines also for minerality were acidity. 5+ $30 exhibited extra fruit SAUVIGNON missing the point! weight and vibrancy. BLANC Plantagenet Wyjup Trevelen Farm BLENDS Silkwood Estate Collection Mount Estate Great Jane Brook The Walcott Barker Riesling Southern Riesling Shovelgate Vineyard 4 TASTED Pemberton Riesling 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH Margaret River 2 AWARDED 2019 HHHHH Limes and lemons lift off Candied development Sauvignon Blanc “A juicy wine,” the nose with a slightly to the nose and off-dry 2017 HHHH A small mixed class according to one meaty note. Beautiful palate backed up with A riper well-balanced with a couple of good judge with floral fruit palate - super long ripe fruit flavours. sauvignon blanc with examples of the fragrances and tropical with juicy complexity lifted aromas of lemons traditional pairing of nuances. Intense citrus of canned-like fruit 3-5 $25 and asparagus. Good sauvignon blanc with flavours with beautifully flavours. Tight acid. flavours on a soft semillon. tailored acidity gives the Bellarmine Half-Dry palate. $21 palate drive and length. 5+ $45 Pemberton Riesling 2019 HHH Brash Vineyard Choosy Beggars 5+ $28 Trevelen Farm A stonefruit-like nose Single Vineyard Margaret River with a smoky touch and Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc a generous honeyed Sauvignon Blanc Semillon palate. $26 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHHHH A very youthful and A very flavoursome Katie's Kiss Great Bellarmine Select stylish wine with a blend with vibrant Southern Riesling Pemberton Riesling complex bouquet and lemon/herbaceous 2018 HHHH 2019 HHH excellent varietal flavour aromatics and Very pretty perfumed Gentle lime/green profile. $22.95 a complete and peachy bouquet. mango aromas with Singlefile Run Free seamlessly balanced Lovely weight of fruit a palate that is long, Great Southern palate with attractive on the long persistent sweet and persistent. Sauvignon Blanc “pure” varietal fruit palate showing some 2019 HHH1/2 flavours. $14.99 sweetness. 3-5 3-5 $26 Sweet lemon fragrances Rosabrook Margaret with a vibrant and River Sauvignon $18 Castelli Estate Great crunchy palate showing Blanc Semillon excellent varietal fruit 2019 HHH Talisman Cellar Southern Riesling intensity. $25 A slight tropical Release Geographe 2018 HHH Paul Conti Wines nose with a floral lift. Riesling 2012 HHHH Very pleasant off-dry, Margaret River Voluminous in the Great colour for an 8-year- but well balanced, Sauvignon Blanc mouth with good fruit old. Nose is intense, riesling with fresh 2019 HHH flavours. $20 complex, spicy and acidity. 3-5 $27 Pungent tropical aromas toasty with a youthful and a tight racy palate and bracing linear palate. Howard Park with generous fruit Museum Release flavours. $18 3-5 $35 Mount Barker Riesling 2013 HHH Bellarmine Dry Nose has nice toasty/fig- Pemberton Riesling like development with 2019 HHH1/2 lovely palate richness Slight savoury edge to and weight. $42 the citrusy/pear nose and a long lingering smoky fruit palate. “Very more-ish.” 5+ $26 May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 33

BEST OF THE WEST SEMILLON Koa Margaret River Silkwood Estate Bellarmine BLENDS Semillon Sauvignon The Bowman Single Pemberton Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 Vineyard Pemberton Chardonnay 9 TASTED Lifted floral fragrances Chardonnay 2019 HHH 8 AWARDED with fairy floss-like 2019 HHHH Light fruit fragrances with sweet notes and Melon based bouquet a light bodied palate and Another very consistent tight herbaceous with a hint of stonefruits simple straightforward class where semillon concentration to the and light oak notes. flavours. $26 can offer that extra palate. $10 Nice crunchy palate with texture and flavour to good primary flavours. West Rivers the wine. Story Bay Margaret Margaret River River Semillon 3-5 $55 Chardonnay Fermoy Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2018 HHH Margaret River 2019 HHH Twinwoods Estate Buttery vanilla nose with Semillon Vibrant floral aromatics Margaret River great length of almond/ Sauvignon Blanc with a good fruit profile Chardonnay marzipan-like flavours. 2019 HHHH1/2 to the well-balanced 2018 HHHH $16 A lovely style with a palate. $7 Lots happening here! very aromatic sweet “Super solid funk on Abbey Vale guava bouquet. The Cormack & Co the nose,” noted one Margaret River well-structured palate is Margaret River judge. Full bodied palate Chardonnay soft and generous with Semillon Sauvignon with generous flavours. 2018 HHH an excellent complexity Blanc 2019 HHH A complexity of well of flavours. $25 Simple lemon/lime nose 5+ $25 managed oak and good with similar characters varietal fruit with some Fuddling Cup echoed on the fiery acid Castelli Estate After Hours toasty age showing. Margaret River palate. $24 Pemberton Margaret River $22.21 Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay Chardonnay Blanc 2019 HHHH Singlefile Great 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHHH Some pungency to the Southern Semillon Toasty smoky aromas Lean mineral driven fruit driven nose with a Sauvignon Blanc with light melon fruit nose with underlying Dune Ridge Setting tropical lift and generous 2019 HHH underneath. Lots of ripe stonefruit Sun Margaret River flavours on the nicely Candied lemon bouquet weight and power to characters. The palate is Chardonnay poised and lengthy and an opulent and well- the softly rounded tight, intense and very 2018 HHH palate. $22 balanced palate with palate and filled with flavoursome. $32 Lovely subtle oak and good fruit power. $25 stonefruit aromas with a Gallows Wine intense stonefruit based Paul Conti Wines long, delicate, light oak Co The Bommy CHARDONNAY flavours. 3-5 $34 Margaret River palate. $26.25 Margaret River 2019 & 2018 Chardonnay Semillon Sauvignon 2019 HHH1/2 Brash Vineyard Blanc 2019 HHHH 22 TASTED Nose shows a touch of Single Vineyard Lovely expression and 17 AWARDED stonefruits and green Margaret River length of gooseberry apples. It is crisp and Chardonnay and guava-like fruit fresh in the mouth with 2018 HHH characters on both the tingling acidity. $22 Obvious stonefruit lifted nose and textured fragrances with loads of palate. $26.25 Howard Park flavour, high acidity and “Overall a very strong Miamup Margaret oak tannins. 3-5 Three Hills Eva class with winemakers River Chardonnay $34.95 Marie Margaret using oak and solids 2019 HHH1/2 River Semillon wisely with the high A lively wine with The Alchemists Sauvignon Blanc scoring wines also aromas of melons, Reserve Elixir (Fumé Style) showing excellent fruit peaches and a light touch Margaret River 2016 HHHH weight,” noted one of oak. Lovely ripe fruit Chardonnay Lovely developed judge. “These were palate. 3-5 $28 2018 HHH toasty bouquet with both excellent vintages Stonefruit nose with nice spicy lemon for chardonnay and Cow Bombie light yeast complexity intensity and oak most can be cellared Margaret River and an elegant primary dominated flavours with confidence.” Chardonnay fruit palate. $40 with a greenish acid 2019 HHH line made in the fumé Obvious vanilla oak on Singlefile Single style. $30 the nose with sweet and Vineyard Family Heydon Estate The gentle fruit flavours on a Reserve Denmark Smithbrook Single Streaker Margaret warm palate. 3-5 Chardonnay Vineyard Pemberton River Chardonnay Chardonnay 2018 HHHHH $18 2018 HHH Powerful fruit driven Toasty candied bouquet 2018 HHHHH fragrances with lifted Twinwoods Estate and an intense and A big oaky nose with cedar oak adding lovely hints of melons, nettles complexity. The palate Margaret River lingering fruit driven is rich with varietal fruit Chardonnay palate. 5+ $60 and spices pushing flavours and has strong 2019 HHH through. A well balanced acidity. Still a baby. and “complete” palate Toasty nose with a hint 5+ $45 of flint and a savoury with great texture and edge to the intense fruit excellent varietal fruit intensity. 3-5 $25 palate. 5+ $25 34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting CHARDONNAY Heydon Estate The Peccavi Margaret Jane Brook Abbey View 2017 & 2016 Willow Margaret River Chardonnay Shovelgate Vineyard Margaret River Pinot River Chardonnay 2016 HHHH Margaret River Rosé 2019 HHH 15 TASTED 2016 HHHHH Powerful fruit and oak Chardonnay Faint confectionery 11 AWARDED “A big rich wine from complexity to the nose 2017 HHH cranberry fruit notes A strong, solid class. a strong vintage,” said with a pretty perfumed Lightly developed fruit/ with a touch of meaty “The 2011 vintage was one judge. Has elegant lift and juicy primary oak aromas and good savouriness. $20.50 a cooler one that really stonefruit and vanilla oak fruit flavours with a long depth of varietal fruit suited Margaret River,” aromas with loads of finish. 3-5 $58 flavours. 5+ $35 La Kooki Margaret observed one judge. intensity and power to River Rosé Blonde “However, overall the flavoursome palate. Fermoy Estate Woody Nook Single 2019 HHH this flight shows the Reserve Margaret Vineyard Margaret The nose is both floral great quality of WA 3-5 $60 River Chardonnay River Chardonnay and savoury with a chardonnay across the 2016 HHH bright palate dominated different regions and Robert Bowen 2017 HHH1/2 Toasty melon nose by the acid. $25 vintages.” Margaret River Sweet ripe melon with slight yeastiness Chardonnay bouquet laced with and a warm and simple Swings & Talisman 'Gabrielle' 2017 HHHH1/2 vanilla oak and lovely toasty oak/fruit palate. Roundabouts Geographe Ferguson A mix of fruit and oak intensity of varietal fruit Backyard Stories Valley Chardonnay aromas with generosity flavours. 3-5 $60 3-5 $36 Margaret River 2017 HHHHH of fruit on the firm Sangiovese Rosé Beautiful chardonnay palate that’s seamlessly Below & Above 2019 HHH fruit fragrances; very balanced with the Single Vineyard ROSÉ An intense and pretty appealing with lovely oak and mineral-like Pemberton red fruit nose with funkiness creating elements. 3-5 $60 Chardonnay 12 TASTED balanced flavours on a complexity. The well- 2016 HHH1/2 delicate palate. $34 structured fruit driven Peaches and grapefruit 5 AWARDED palate is long and on the nose with a Umamu Estate intensely flavoured. hint of smoky oak and A mixed bag! “If Margaret River Rosé zippy acid elegance to you start with ripe 2018 HHH 3-5 $40 the gentle fruit palate. fruit you can make a A light wine of red fruits, good rosé!” was one dried herbs and citrus 3-5 $35 judge’s comment. “Too peel with some fruit many winemakers are sweetness. $30 Rosabrook Single worrying more about Vineyard Estate the colour than the PINOT NOIR Margaret River flavour.” Chardonnay 8 TASTED 2016 HHH1/2 Gilberts Mount 6 AWARDED Ripe and buttery bouquet Barker Great with a floral lift and a Southern Shiraz Generally, a solid class palate brimming over Rosé 2019 HHHH here with the judges with peach and melon Vibrant lifted candied suggesting that the fruit. 3-5 $45 strawberry and plum better wines offered bouquet with a drinkability rather than Brash Vineyard pleasant strawberries going for gold and Single Vineyard and cream palate and missing the mark. Margaret River light herbaceous notes. Chardonnay $20 2017 HHH Thompson Estate Intense fruit nose with The Specialist Margaret River a dash of oak and a light fruit palate that finishes Chardonnay warm. 3-5 $34.95 2016 HHHH1/2 An elegant and intensely perfumed fruit nose and big powerful fruit palate with a beautiful acid drive and malo notes adding complexity. 5+ $80 JUDGES - DAY 1 Robert Bowen Andrew Dawson Former senior winemaker/ Head winemaker at Mark Baird regional general manager of Latitude 34 Wine Co. Has Senior winemaker at the Houghton wine company. a Graduate Diploma of Jane Brook Estate. In More than thirty years Enology Curtin Uni, WSET the wine industry for experience as a winemaker Diploma and AWAC at over 20 years. Judge and consultant. Has worked AWRI. Has worked at at Swan Valley wine with Plantagenet, Capel Vale, Thompson Estate and has show, Perth show. and Willow Bridge. Has had vintaged in Yarra, Oregon, Has vintaged in Swan overseas experience in the Napa and Rheinhessen. Valley, Margaret River UK, France and New Zealand. Associate judge at many and Great southern. Perth wine shows. Consulted for other wine clients. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 35

BEST OF THE WEST Silkwood Estate Green Door The Bowman Single Geographe Vineyard Pemberton Monastrell Pinot Noir 2018 HHHH 2019 HHH1/2 Pungent sweet cherry Loads of mocha-like fragrances with oriental- oak on the nose with like spiciness and some rich fruit flavours and pretty fruit flavours slightly furry tannins. on the nicely textured palate. $19.95 3-5 $55 Smithbrook Single Paul Conti Wines Vineyard Pemberton Western Australia Pinot Noir Nero D'Avola 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHHH Aromas of cloves, A lovely aromatic cranberries and rhubarb mix of brambles and with “lots of tricks” licorice with a generous creating flavour drive and concentration of youthful length. 5+ $25 flavours and nice fine tannins. $20 Robert Bowen Zarephath Single Pemberton Pinot Windy Creek Three Hills RiverBank Estate Vineyard Great Noir 2018 HHH Estate Swan GSM Margaret River Rebellious Swan Southern Pinot Noir An oak driven nose Valley Grenache Grenache Shiraz Valley Cabernet 2018 HHHHH leading to a ripe fruit 2018 HHHHH Mataro Franc Petit Verdot A powerful wine with palate layered with fine Lifted raspberry 2018 HHHH1/2 Malbec 2018 HHHH juicy lolly-like edge silky tannins. $32 confectionery intensity Lovely lifted red fruit Excellent lifted red fruit to the cherry/plum to the nose with a characters lift off the expression on the nose nose. The palate has OTHER RED simple but attractive nose and the stylish and a palate that is a generosity of sweet VARIETALS & juicy sweet fruit palate palate is soft and subtle smooth and cool in the fruit flavours with firm BLENDS that has a savoury edge in the mouth with great mouth with subtle juicy tannins and a lovely and underscored by depth of fruit driven fruit flavours. $25 lingering aftertaste. 22 TASTED chewy tannins. $12 flavours. $30 Silkwood Estate The 21 AWARDED Vineyard 28 Three Hills Margaret Walcott Pemberton 5+ $35 Geographe Dolcetto River Grenache Malbec 2018 HHHH 2019 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 Pretty oak/fruit Bellarmine Wow! The judges A great example of Excellent varietal fragrances fill the glass Pemberton Pinot found this to be a really the dolcetto variety. fruit intensity to this and the fresh palate has Noir 2019 HHHH consistent and solid Interesting combination seamlessly balanced a nice core of sweet Bright light strawberry group of interesting of cola and herbal-like wine showing lovely fruit with a lingering bouquet with hints of varietals showing aromas with lovely vibrant spicy cherry finish. $30 forest floor characters. A winemakers are getting sweet fruit flavours fragrances and good Three Hills Margaret savoury fruit palate with a handle on varietal on the palate and a level of tannins on the River Cabernet fine tannins and crisp expression. Watch this backbone of chalky palate. $38 Franc 2018 HHHH acidity. 3-5 $26 space! tannins. $28 Robert Bowen An attractive sweet La Kooki Ten Portuguese Blend fruit bouquet with Plantagenet Foot Geographe 2018 HHHH a hint of green. The Normand Great Tempranillo Attractive sour cherry-like lovely palate structure Southern Pinot Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 aromas and a stylish has long lingering fruit 2019 HHH1/2 Lovely vibrant and lifted lightweight palate that has flavours. $38 Aromas like sarsaparilla aromas reminiscent of a nice savoury edge and with smoky oak notes strawberry lollies with lovely bright acidity. $28 and a silky-smooth solid a delicate palate that fruit palate with soft exhibits excellent length tannins. 3-5 $40 of fine varietal fruit flavours. $25 JUDGES - DAY 2 Tony Devitt Ann Marie Tamburri Mark Baird Director of Ashbrook Retail Manager at La Vigna Senior winemaker at Estate Wines. Judge Wine Store. Has vintaged Jane Brook Estate. In at the Perth Royal at Laughing Jack Wines the wine industry for Wine Show for and visited vineyards in over 20 years. Judge the past 30 years Champagne, Tuscany, at Swan Valley wine and recently panel Burgundy, Jura and Verona. show, Perth show. chairman. Also panel Judged at Perth Hills and Has vintaged in Swan chairman at WA Wine Swan Valley wine shows, Valley, Margaret River Show, and other and Associate Judge at and Great southern. regional shows. Has Perth Royal, Mount Barker Consulted for other judged in South Africa. and Geographe wine shows. wine clients. 36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

MODERN AUSTRALIAN TASTING MENUS AND AWARD-WINNING WINE LIST “Our cuisine is described as modern Australian. A blending of the world’s finest culinary techniques and Australia’s abundance of choice fresh produce resulting in what I see as the most exciting, innovative, and above all, flavoursome cuisine today.” HHH www.friendsrestaurant.com.au Phone: (08) 9221 0885 Cloisters, 200 St Georges Terrace, Perth WA 6000

BEST OF THE WEST RiverBank Estate Talisman Geographe Below & Above Sandalford Margaret CABERNET Rebellious Swan Zinfandel 2017 HHH Single Vineyard River Range SAUVIGNON Valley Grenache Pretty confectionery Pemberton Merlot Margaret River 2018 HHH1/2 fruit bouquet and a leafy 2014 HHH Cabernet Merlot 29 TASTED A very attractive lighter edge to the red berry/ A soft, nicely matured 2018 HHHH 23 AWARDED style of grenache with Ribena-like flavours. $45 wine of sweet cherry Nice lift of sweet red The judges found this to fresh vibrant red fruit fruit and coffee/mocha fruit and plum characters be quite a diverse class. characters and some Rosabrook Single oak. $30 with some earthiness “The 2018s seemed grainy tannins. $25 Vineyard Estate peeking through and still youthful and vibrant Singlefile Great Margaret River CABERNET mouthwatering tannins. while there was a Southern Malbec Tempranillo BLENDS $21.95 mixed result from the 2018 HHH1/2 2014 HHH Choosy Beggars 2017s, a difficult year Nicely perfumed dark A wine that is a 15 TASTED Geographe Cabernet where site selection red fruit bouquet and complexity of toasty/ 10 AWARDED Merlot 2018 HHH1/2 was important,” noted some lovely rich plum cedary oak layered A firm, well balanced, one judge. “The 2016s flavours and talc-like with cola-like fruit A mixed bag with some style of merlot with a were a very consistent tannins. $25 characters. $65 borderline wines, some rich lift of cassis and and solid class but again Oates Ends Margaret quaffers and some plum fruit characters there was a mixed River Tempranillo MERLOT excellent examples and grainy tannins. result from the 2015s, 2018 HHH1/2 where the variety $14.99 another dry year.” Red fruit varietal aromas 6 TASTED matching the cabernet RiverBank Estate with a medicinal note 5 AWARDED was of a similar Rebellious BDX+ Singlefile 'The Philip and a lightweight tannic standard. “A blend Swan Valley Adrian' Frankland palate with a gamey A wide range of is only as good as its Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet edge. $28 vintages on show here, quality parts,” said one Cabernet Franc Sauvignon Galafrey Mt Barker also with a wide range judge. Petit Verdot Malbec 2016 HHHHH Cabernet Franc of prices, albeit with Merlot Tempranillo Sarsaparilla and cola-like 2018 HHH general consistency. Singlefile Great 2018 HHH characters lift off the Spicy plum bouquet and Southern Cabernet A big bold interesting nose and the palate is medium bodied, well Talisman Sauvignon Merlot blend with a lovely core dark and brooding with balanced, palate with a Cellar Release 2018 HHHHH of sweet varietal fruits sweet fruit flavours and savoury element. $25 Geographe Merlot A delicious wine that and leesy notes. $25 a big powerful tannic Green Door El 2009 HHHH1/2 is bold and rich with a Three Hills Charles backbone and long Toro Geographe An excellent food wine generous amount of Andreas Margaret finish. $100 Tempranillo that still has plenty of lifted sweet red and blue River Cabernet 2018 HHH fruit evident. The nose is fruit characters on both Merlot Petit Verdot Dense dark red fruit and a fragrant mix of spices, the nose and the palate. Malbec 2018 HHH cola fragrances and long cedar and stewed plums Offers good cellaring Cassis/herbal bouquet lifted juicy fruit flavours with a generosity of potential. $25 and a very dark fruit/ with a tannic finish. $25 flavours on the soft tannic palate with RiverBank Estate palate. $60 Woody Nook Single lingering flavours. $45 Rebellious Swan Vineyard Margaret Fermoy Estate Valley Tempranillo Peccavi Estate River Cabernet Margaret River 2018 HHH Margaret River Merlot 2016 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Spicy strawberry fruit Merlot 2017 HHH1/2 A nicely developing Merlot 2016 HHH characters obvious A wine that is a style with cassis fruit Bold spicy plum and here mixing with pencil complexity of cedar oak and cedary/spicy oak cassis fruit characters shaving-like oak. $25 and sour plum-like fruit lifting out the glass and seamlessly balanced The Alchemists characters with emery- a palate that offers a with fine tannins. $25 Reserve Elixir like tannins. $150 big mouthful of sweet Castelli il Liris Great Margaret River varietal fruit layered with Southern Cabernet Malbec 2018 HHH Fermoy Estate grainy tannins. $36 Shiraz Malbec Dense spicy plum aromas Margaret River 2016 HHH and quite a firm tannic Merlot 2018 HHH Talisman Geographe Excellent fruit intensity palate with good length A generous, nicely Cabernet Malbec and generosity with of fruit flavours. $45 textured merlot with 2018 HHHH1/2 bold tannins. Great Jane Brook dark plum, cedar and A big rich blend with with food. $75 Shovelgate Vineyard spice-like elements. $30 the dark fruit aromas Evoi Satyr Margaret Margaret River showing a candied edge River Cabernet Malbec 2017 HHH Talisman Geographe and has a firm tannic Sauvignon Petit Spicy oak dominates Merlot 2017 HHH palate with good length Verdot Merlot the nose and exhibits Aromas of cherry of sweet varietal fruit Malbec 2013 HHH a delicate lightweight cola with nettle-like flavours. $30 A beautifully aged wine palate. $35 notes and subtle fruit that still has a strong flavours. $40 core of fruit with grainy tannins. $55 38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting Silkwood Estate The Rosabrook Single Twinwoods Estate Peccavi Margaret Castelli Estate Walcott Pemberton Vineyard Estate Margaret River River Cabernet Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 HHHH 2016 HHHH 2016 HHH1/2 Huge pungent blue fruit 2016 HHHH1/2 A lifted herbaceous style Big, bold and Cassis and mint on bouquet with a savoury “An excellent style!” of cabernet with sweet flavoursome cabernet the nose with a big, nuance and equally big enthused one judge. cassis aromas and soft, with attractive cassis- complex and chewy palate with a ripe juicy “Very varietal and still nicely balanced, palate like varietal fruit, fine palate that is both spicy core of varietal fruit. youthful.” There is with a ‘cool’ finish. $30 vibrant tannins and and savoury. $38 Very youthful and well plenty of cassis fruit Oates Ends Margaret cedary oak. $68 Howard Park Leston balanced. $30 and dark chocolate River Cabernet Heydon Estate WG Margaret River Twinwoods Estate characters and fine Sauvignon Grace Margaret Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River tannins. $45 2016 HHHH River Cabernet 2016 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon James Busby Full, generous and 2014 HHHH A delicious, nicely 2016 HHHH1/2 Margaret River seamlessly balanced A youthful and well- structured, jubey fruit Attractive development Cabernet Sauvignon with excellent balanced style of wine style with a generous here with fresh spicy 2018 HHHH expression of dense that would go well with amount of perfumed blackberry aromas. Soft Good varietal expression cassis/blue fruit varietal food. It has a complexity blue fruits. $50 in the mouth and full of cassis fruit mixing characters. $48 of red fruits and lush Woody Nook of sweet cabernet fruit with spices and cedar. leafiness. $75 Gallaghers Choice and layered with grainy The dry tannic palate Thompson Estate Fuddling Cup Margaret River tannins. $30 has sweet fruit and fine The Specialist Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. $25 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH1/2 Rich raspberry aromas 2016 HHHH A big rich wine with with savoury nuances An elegant cabernet a peppery cassis fruit and an attractive palate with menthol notes to bouquet and a light with sweet fruit and the dark fruit fragrances bright feel to the varietal green tannins. $65 and a youthful palate palate. $35 Twinwoods Estate with an intense flavour Brash Vineyard Reserve Optivus profile. $90 Single Vineyard Margaret River Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHH1/2 2017 HHH1/2 Spicy cassis nose with a A fragrance of black tar-like note and big rich cherries and fruits of the tannic palate with great forest with a fruit bomb fruit expression. $49 of a palate with chunky Abbey Vale tannins. $44.95 Margaret River Swings & Cabernet Sauvignon Roundabouts 2018 HHH Backyard Stories Excellent varietal Margaret River bouquet of sweet blue Cabernet Sauvignon fruits and good depth of 2017 HHH1/2 varietal flavour. $24.99 An elegance of sweet cabernet fruit with pencil shaving-like oak characters and bold tannins. $65 CONNECT ON SOCIAL WITH WINESTATE Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings, competitions and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine twitter.com/winestateed www.instagram.com/winestate/ May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 39

BEST OF THE WEST After Hours SHIRAZ Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 27 TASTED 2018 HHH Attractive cassis nose 20 AWARDED with nice toastiness and bold flavours with minty A solid to strong class. Sandalford Estate Gilberts Reserve Paul Conti Wines hints. $30 “The 2018s offered Reserve Margaret Mount Barker Great Mariginiup Western Thompson Estate great juicy drinking River Shiraz Southern Shiraz Australia Shiraz Margaret River wines, whereas the 2017 HHHHH 2017 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2017s had a diversity Nose shows an An elegant wine with A pretty lifted bouquet 2017 HHH of styles across a cool abundance of “yummy” plum skin and cola-like smelling of mint and Nose has a lift of dark year,” commented one berry fruit and milk fragrances. Soft sweet plums. The elegant cherries and vanilla oak judge. “Great to see chocolate aromas and fruit fills the mouth with palate has sweet with some subtle fruit balance rather than flavours with an elegant delicious flavours and gentle fruit flavours flavours. $50 overbearing oak.” The tannin backbone and is seamlessly balanced with slight lingering Gilberts 3 Lads judges commented good line of acidity. Give with oak and tannins. greenness and chalky Mount Barker Great how clean and fresh the it food! 5+ $35 tannins. 5+ $28 Southern Cabernet wines were, a credit to 3-5 $40 Sauvignon the winemakers. 2016 HHH A nicely ageing Zarephath Single lightweight style with Vineyard Great a licorice/herbal nose Southern Syrah and subtle red fruit 2018 HHHHH flavours. $35 Vibrant ripe berry Twinwoods Estate bouquet with hints Reserve Optivus of coffee and licorice Margaret River and a delicious core Cabernet Sauvignon of sweet primary fruit 2014 HHH flavours layered with Lifted menthol/cassis soft fine tannins. “Very bouquet and rich red drinkable!” $35 fruit flavours with some leafiness. $45 Gilberts Reserve Settlers Ridge Mount Barker Great Organic Wines Southern Shiraz Margaret River 2018 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Nose is a fragrant 2012 HHH freshness of blue fruits A fully matured wine and violets with a solid with a complexity of soy core of delicious sweet sauce, tar, toastiness fruit flavours. “Has plenty and dark fruits. $35 of appeal,” suggested one judge. $40 Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions. www.winestate.com.au 40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting Twinwoods Trevelen Farm Twinwoods Estate Nikola Estate Estate Margaret Frankland Reserve Margaret River Western Australia River Shiraz Great Southern Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2018 HHH 2017 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2015 HHHH Dark fruit intensity to Aromas of figs and Dark brooding fruit Nose is an interesting the nose with nettle-like coffee mingling with the nose with hints of tar complexity of Christmas nuances. Some really fruit and has a big bold and spices and a bold cake and cured meats lovely fruit weight to the shiraz palate. $25 fruit filled palate with with a bold and intense palate. 5+ $30 underlying sweetness, sweet fruit palate. $25 The Alchemists well-handled oak and Castelli Estate Great Reserve Elixir talc-like tannins. $30 Oakover Nicholas Southern Shiraz Margaret River Sandalford Margaret Signature Western 2016 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2018 HHH River Range Australia Shiraz A rich full-bodied style Attractive cool climate Margaret River 2018 HHH1/2 with masses of varietal shiraz with some fruit Shiraz 2018 HHHH Pungent cedary/spicy fruit, powerful tannins cake characters and Very obvious candied bouquet with ripe plum and a long lingering chalky tannins. $40 plum aromas with inky complexity and long aftertaste. 3-5 $34 fruit flavours, plenty of lingering sweet fruit Talisman Cellar silky tannins and good flavours. 3-5 $35 Abbey Vale Release Geographe use of mocha-like oak. Margaret River Shiraz 2009 HHH West Rivers Shiraz 2018 HHH A mature, bright crimson 5+ $21.95 Frankland River Purple fruit fragrances wine with aromas of figs Woody Nook Single Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 with hints of rose and cola and a pretty Vineyard Margaret Pretty red fruit aromas petals and lovely flavour profile. $45 River Shiraz with a floral edge and cool climate varietal Windy Creek 2018 HHHH a firm tight and slightly flavours. 3-5 SWEET Estate Swan Valley Big mocha-like oak green palate with a core $24.99 WHITES & Ximenez NV HHHHH dominates the nose of red fruit. $16 FORTIFIED Very clean example and the delicately Flowstone with excellent spirit and structured palate has Old Kent River Moonmilk Red 2 TASTED lovely luscious fruit. beautiful weight of Frankland River Margaret River 2 AWARDED The nose has a savoury shiraz fruit. $36 Great Southern Shiraz Grenache element with some Brash Vineyard Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 2018 HHH A couple of good dried plum notes and a Single Vineyard An elegant and Nose of cherries and examples here. beautiful well integrated Margaret River “complete” wine with a licorice with a vibrant and lively palate. $20 Shiraz 2017 HHHH lovely lively vibrancy of juicy palate. High in Windy Creek Estate Pretty blue fruit varietal fruit and a subtle acid and tight tannins. Swan Valley Liqueur fragrances with an hint of oak. $25 Shiraz HHH1/2 herbaceous element and 3-5 $25 Big rich sweet licorice well-structured palate style with a raisined nose. with great fruit and Velvety smooth in the chewy tannins. $34.95 mouth with good sweet fruit length. $20 KEEP CALM, STAY AT HOME & DRINK WINE www.winestate.com.au SUPPORT WINESTATE RECOMMENDED WINERIES May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 41

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN NEW SOUTH WALES ORANGE IS BINGING! for a range of events including wedding of the growers, so I've reached out to them. ceremonies and receptions, corporate \"We've got some good fruit, both from the THE Byng Street Boutique Hotel is a new functions and private gatherings. Offerings accommodation experience located in the range from cocktail and canape style events Hunter and from outside. With the Hunter heart of Orange’s heritage precinct - the through to sit-down dinner menus. Valley Distillery next door and Blaxlands ideal central location to enjoy everything restaurant right here, too, it's a great spot for the Central Western New South Wales town VAMPING IT UP people to pull up and explore.\" has to offer. With an impressive juxtaposition of a significant historical homestead and THE Hunter Valley has a spectacular new The centre of the room contains a circular contemporary architecture, the hotel has 22 wine-tasting experience with the opening tasting bar, surrounded by four-semi private accommodation rooms and suites that aim of Vamp by winemaker Lisa McGuigan. The tasting rooms and a large group tasting to offer “unique style, luxurious comfort and venue aims to echo McGuigan's post-punk room for up to 30. sophistication”. All accommodation tariffs persona, image and style and encompasses include a two-course a la carte breakfast her passions: wine, food, art and fashion. Vamp is open 11am-5pm Thursday- served in the Yallungah Dining Room. The The cellar door opened in December and Monday for tastings with the oyster bar open former Yallungah homestead dates back to there is now also an oyster bar offering Friday-Sunday. www.vampbylisamcguigan. 1896 and is decorated with artworks from bubbles and bivalves. Sculptures by withwine.com. local artists Larissa Blake and Loretta Blake. Charles Blackman have been installed Proprietors Kristen and Thomas Nock have around the property - and there are plans for MAITLAND A FOODIE a passion for design, detail and service and weekend art tours. Another highlight is an MECCA prices start from $295 per night. See www. Around the World with Pinot tasting, which byngstreethotel.com.au. will need to be pre-booked. Vamp has a slick MAITLAND is one of the oldest heritage black exterior and the monochrome theme rich regional centres in Australia, built on Other activity in the Byng Street precinct continues through the space, including a the banks of the Hunter River. Maitland has seen the Union Bank re-open with the painted feature wall. The new venue follows Taste, the Slow Food Earth Markets, a Schoolhouse Restaurant and The Art House McGuigan's decision to move back to the wealth of local producers, and a thriving Bar & Courtyard. The iconic venue, which Hunter after more than 30 years in Sydney café, restaurant and pub scene, has seen had been closed for 12 months, celebrates - and is on Broke Road in Pokolbin. Maitland emerge as a foodie destination its origins as an art school and original site and an easy drive from Sydney, the Central of Kinross Wolaroi School, with manager \"I gave it a name because it's more than Coast and Newcastle. Sarah Crowley from Sydney's Rockpool Bar just a cellar door,\" McGuigan said. \"I wanted & Grill leading the team. Other recent food up-market glamorous, a bit Gothic, a lot of Slow Food Earth Markets Maitland is one and wine offerings in Orange include the shiny black ... because that's me. I didn't of 60 Earth Markets worldwide and is the new Spilt Milk Gelato Bar, while Philip Shaw want to copy anyone. I think it has a feel and first of its kind in Australia. Visitors can Wines has introduced a new wine tasting and a look all of its own. purchase freshly picked produce, meet the food pairing experience with chef Francesco people who grow the food and support local Zarrella. Philip Shaw Wines and Zarrella cater \"I also want to be there, at the cellar door, growers on the first and third Thursdays to talk to people, build the brand,\" she said. of each month from 8.30am. Other foodie \"I think that's very important for the next experiences include making sourdough couple of years. with the iconic family of bakers at the historic Arnott Bakehouse in neighbouring Morpeth \"We'll carry a new range called the Velvet Collection that will only be available at the cellar door, as well as our regular silver and platinum ranges.” The Lisa McGuigan wines will range in price at the cellar door from $20 to $50. \"I want it to be classy but still affordable,\" she said. \"I've been fortunate that our family have been making wine for so long that I know a lot 42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

travelbriefs and learning about sustainable farming cheese and charcuterie plates. www. The De Bortoli family is one of Australia's practices at the Purple Pair Farm. Maitland gundogestate.com.au/ first families of wine, with vines established has several dining options including café, in Bilbul by the head of the family, Vittorio small bar and deli, Coquun; high-quality NEW ENGLAND IN A NEW De Bortoli, in the 1930s. Visit the cellar door Italian with a focus on handmade pastas at LIGHT and hear about the history of the company Fratelli Roma and Melbourne-style wine bar, and enjoy a bottle of wine under a pergola cocktail lounge and restaurant The Rigby. THE picturesque New England area is not in the garden. often looked at as a gourmet destination, but The craft beer scene is highlighted by it has a number of cool-climate wineries as Another family with a long history in the the annual Bitter & Twisted Boutique Beer well as waterfalls, rainforests and abundant region is the Calabria clan. Their Tuscan- Festival within the walls of Maitland Gaol wildlife. It also produces some of Australia's style cellar door in Griffith offers a number of each November, but there are also several finest lamb and beef. tasting experiences, including cheese and craft beer pubs in The Pourhouse, The Old wine matching and a group tasting, with a Victoria or The Whistler. Or sample a local Wine growing in New England began real warmth and Italian hospitality. brew by the Morpeth Brewery and Beer Co's in the 19th century and the district was at the Commercial Hotel. Dine at Boydells winning international prizes by the 1880s. Yarran Wines is a smaller winery overlooking Cellar Door and Restaurant in Morpeth, Toppers Mountain Wines in Tingha is one Cocoparra National Park, producing which has a focusing on seasonal, local of the best-known producers but was hit by sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, shiraz and produce including fresh seafood, local bushfires. Zappa Wines is a family operation cabernet sauvignon. It holds regular events lamb and beef and vegetarian options. For near Tenterfield that includes beef and like Sip and Stretch, yoga in the vines with a details visit www.mymaitland.com.au wool production, seasonal cereal crops, sparkling brunch afterwards. fresh vegetables along with the vineyards. WINE & GIN Visitors can taste barbera, tannat, merlot, An ideal way to visit wineries and meet sauvignon blanc and semillon at the cellar producers in the region is on a bespoke GUNDOG Estate winemaker Matt Burton door. Also near Tenterfield is Splitter's Bella Vita Riverina Tour. Visit Riverina Grove is known for making semillon in several Swamp, a small winery with rich granite soil in Griffith to stock up on pasta sauce, different ways but now he’s crafting a producing shiraz cabernet, sauvignon and condiments, salsa and award-winning olives semillon-infused gin. merlot, open by appointment. Further south, or pop into Codemo Smallgoods for salumi, near Armidale, you'll find well established bacon, sausages, prosciutto and hams. \"All of our guys in the winery and the cellar wineries Petersons Armidale winery and door love a gin, so I guess it was the next Merilba Estate. Petersons operates out For a paddock-to-plate experience stop off step,\" Burton said. of the original homestead stables, where at Piccolo Family Farm. This working farm you can taste semillon, sauvignon blanc, supplies its fine dining restaurant, Limone, \"It's about a whole brand experience, not riesling, pinot noir, shiraz and merlot. There with fresh produce every day. Herbs, fruits just for new customers but for our members is also an on-site guesthouse. Merilba and vegetables are grown sustainably with and repeat customers. Estate produces semillon, sauvignon all of the produce harvested by hand and blanc, chardonnay, shiraz and cabernet free from pesticides. The property itself is \"We've expanded our wine range over while Eastview Estate is a unique distillery, beautiful, with a homestead built in 1921, and the years, we brought out a Gundog beer brewery and restaurant, producing award- hosts long lunches and music festivals. recently - our Hunting Ale which has done winning gin, vodka, beer and whisky. well for us - so I thought why not a gin? Opposite page top right: Lisa McGuigan Vamp A TASTE OF THE OLD Tasting rooms. \"For some reason wine drinkers seem to COUNTRY Opposite page top left: Byng Street Hotel dining room. really appreciate that clean freshness of Opposite page bottom right: Slow food market Maitland. gin. And as a winemaker I was intrigued GRIFFITH, in the Riverina region, has a strong Top left: Grazing boards set up for guests at Piccolo Family by the process and the impact all the food and wine culture, in part due to the Farm, Wyangan near Griffith. Copyright Destination NSW. botanicals can have on flavour.\" European population that settled there after Top right: Couple enjoying a visit to Emeri De Bortoli's winery World War II. There are a number of excellent garden - open to the public annually during the Griffith's Burton sought the expertise of the Newy wineries and food producers to sample. Festival of the Gardens. Copyright Destination NSW. Distillery in Newcastle to put his plan in place. The Gundog Dry Gin sells for $85 but supplies are very limited. The Gundog Hunter Cellar & Gourmet Pantry in Pokolbin offers wine tastings complemented by May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 43

225 TASTED 209 AWARDED WINES OF NSW A great consistent result for these wines from NSW. The Logan Weemala state has a plethora of options across its many macro and Orange Pinot Gris micro climates. Heroes in this judging include the semillons (of 2019 HHH course) along with some great cabernet and cabernet blends Pronounced berry aroma from the cooler regions. Across the board there were great profile with flavours at examples where cool climate varieties did well in these regions the tropical end of the whilst warm climate varietals performed in warmer regions. spectrum. $20 Makes sense! Nashdale Lane Colour Series Orange Pinot Gris 2019 HHH Punchy fruit fragrances and well-structured palate with refreshing flavours. $28 SPARKLING Colmar Estate OTHER WHITE Orange Sparkling VARIETALS & 4 TASTED Chardonnay Pinot BLENDS Noir 2015 HHHH 4 AWARDED Very attractive aromas 9 TASTED of stonefruits with 8 AWARDED A strong result with tropical notes and a Cumulus Rolling an overall good display bright fresh impact Orange Pinot Grigio “Great to see diversity of fruit character of flavours on the 2019 HHHH in these varietal and a couple of aged pleasant palate. Attractive combo of styles with good beauties! fresh figs, apricots and quality overall,” said 3-5 $60 bananas with hints of one judge. “Nice Coppabella orange blossom. Lovely to see restraint Cuvée Prestige Gallagher Wines flavour profile; great and winemakers’ Tumbarumba Sparkling Duet varietal expression. understanding of Sparkling Canberra District $15.99 varietal expression.” Chardonnay Sparkling Pinot Noir Colmar Estate NV HHHHH Chardonnay Orange Pinot Gris Delightfully “old world” NV HHH 2019 HHHH powerful and mature A very refreshing green Intense floral bouquet bouquet with a very apple/citrus style of followed by a soft flavoursome green sparkling with a smooth generous pear and apple palate showing fine bead. $35 yellow apple palate citrus overtones and a Highland Heritage with excellent minerally Estate Patrono PINOT GRIS/ acidity. $30 buttery/butterscotch-like Brut Orange GRIGIO Trentham Estate complexity. 3-5 Murray Darling $60 Sparkling Pinot Noir 6 TASTED Pinot Gris Chardonnay 5 AWARDED 2019 HHH 2017 HHHH Plenty of citrus/pear Refreshing citrus Generally, these fragrances with lovely bouquet with a hint showed good varietal refreshing varietal of honey and luscious character but at the flavours. $18 stonefruit flavours lighter end of the exhibiting delicate floral spectrum. nuances. 3-5 $55 44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting Iron Gate Estate Tamburlaine SAUVIGNON Allandale Winery Inner City Classic Hunter Organic Wines Point BLANC Single Vineyard Winemakers Fumé Valley Verdelho 65 Hunter Valley Orange Sauvignon Blanc Orange 2019 HHHHH & Orange Viognier 6 TASTED Blanc 2019 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Confectionery rich, 2019 HHHH 6 AWARDED Attractive guava and 2019 HHH peach driven, aromas Nose shows aromas A good line-up melon-like bouquet with Perfumed aromas with with floral fragrances of apricots and vanilla showing minerality attractive passionfruit citrus tones and very and a palate that delivers and is soft and rounded rather than strong fruit characters dominating refreshing crunchy plenty of fruit with great in the mouth with a and elegance rather the nicely textured minerally palate. $30 flavours of peaches, typical viognier varietal than overpowering palate. $27 tropical fruit and floral palate. $30 characters. Logan Weemala characters. $25 Berton Vineyards Highland Heritage Orange Sauvignon Trentham Estate Winemakers Reserve Highland Heritage Estate Generations Blanc 2018 HHH The Family Murray Riverina Aranel Estate Mt Canobolas Orange Sauvignon Bright light style with Darling Vermentino 2019 HHH1/2 Orange Sauvignon Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 subtle kiwi fruit and 2019 HHHH Some nutty citrus notes Blanc 2019 HHHHH Elderflower, green peas green apple varietal A floral/confectionery to the nose and lightly Fabulous aromas: an and musky notes on characters. $20 fruit bouquet and flavoured palate with elegance of cut grass the nose with a palate a tropically framed good line of acid and a and asparagus that is that shows “abundant RIESLING palate that is fresh and firm finish. $15 echoed on the smooth varietal charm.” $CDO appealing with acidity Grove Estate palate giving a mouthful Ross Hill Lily Orange 14 TASTED carrying the fruit. $18 Hilltops Viognier of long, lingering and Sauvignon Blanc 13 AWARDED Grove Estate 2018 HHH1/2 delicious flavours. $25 2019 HHH1/2 Hilltops Fiano Very citrussy style Citrussy/melon A mixed group in terms 2019 HHHH with subtle aromas intensity to the nose of scores. “We noticed Soft fruit aromas with and medium intensity with gentle minerality. almost all the wines hints of sweetness palate with just a hint of Palate is gentle, were the same colour,” and a touch of honey. apricots. $20 fresh and appealingly said one judge. “For Palate leaves a lasting Topper's Mountain varietal. $20 riesling lovers these impression of lovely New England wines showed great complexity. $20 Gewurztraminer consistency in terms of 2017 HHH1/2 quality and value with A stunning standout the ‘excitement’ at varietal statement on the upper level where the highly perfumed winemakers are adding nose and interesting their expertise.” spiciness to the warm palate. $35 Coolangatta Peter Drayton Wines Estate Winsome Anomaly Hunter Shoalhaven Coast Valley Vermentino Riesling 2019 HHH 2018 HHHHH A fragrant mix of citrus A beautifully evolving and melons with a firm Riesling with a nose and crisp green apple showing an attractive palate. $30 spicy varietal lift and excellent depth of brown lime-like flavours. Good cellaring potential. 5+ $50 JUDGES - DAY 1 Denis Gastin Andy Chen Wine writer & judge. Wine & Spirit Education Alex Beckett Asian Wine Editor for Trust Certified Wine Winemaker for Briar Winestate. Regular Educator in both English Ridge vineyard. judge with the Japan & Mandarin. Wine and Former wine sales Wine Competition and investment consultant and distribution Korean Wine Challenge. and judge. director for Edinburgh Contributor to world- Cellars (SA) and East wide wine reference End Cellars (SA). books. Director of the Currently studying Asian Wine Review. for WSET 4 diploma. Associate judge at the Rutherglen wine show and Sydney wine shows. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 45

WINES OF NSW Robert Stein Dry Robert Stein Half Saddler's Creek Mudgee Riesling Dry Mudgee Riesling Hunter Valley 2019 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH Semillon A clean tight package Nicely balanced semi- 2019 HHH1/2 that will open up with dry style with gentle Soft citrus aromas age. Showing some grapefruit notes. Drink with hay-like hints and refreshing citrus soon. $40 flavours of lemons and characters on the nose limes with a grippy finish. that follow through to Capital Wines 'The Time! 5+ $26 the long and lingering Whip' Canberra juicy acid palate. Riesling 2018 HHH McGuigan Shortlist An attractive melange Hunter Valley 3-5 $35 of green apple fruit, Semillon Tamburlaine Organic gentle florals and 2019 HHH1/2 Wines On the a touch of honey Gentle citrus bouquet Grapevine Orange maturity. 3-5 $21 with perfumed lift and Riesling 2019 HHHH high acid palate laced Clean clear and lifted LMB Wines Orange with green apple/ aromas of floral, citrus Riesling 2018 HHH stonefruit flavours. and pears with a firm, Subdued style of riesling elegant and very long with very subtle varietal 5+ $30 citrussy driven palate. $20 characters and a gentle Tempus Two finish. 3-5 $30 Copper Hunter Valley Semillon Nashdale Lane Highland Heritage Colmar Estate Block 2019 HHH1/2 Colour Series Estate Mt Canobolas 6 Orange Riesling “Shimmering lemon Orange Riesling Orange Riesling 2018 HHH hues.” Subtle grassy/ 2019 HHHHH 2019 HHHH1/2 Quite closed for now herbal aromas and A classic with its Good varietal with lean citrusy a “bitey” citrus fruit generous citrus peel/ expression to the nose; characters. Could impression to the palate. green apple aromas and loads of green fruits deliver more in time. attractive and powerful with floral overtones. 5+ $30 3-5 $35 citrus fruit flavours. Crisp green apple Great acid support. flavours with bright and Good drinking now with lively acidity. One for SEMILLON plenty of potential for the cellar. 5+ $28 2019 ageing. 5+ $30 10 TASTED Robert Stein Farm Series Mudgee 10 AWARDED Riesling 2019 HHHH1/2 Highland Heritage An extremely Shy for now but Estate Mt Canobolas consistent class with showing plenty of Nikki D Orange similar mid-weight promise for the future. Riesling 2019 HHHH flavours across the Good weight of spicy Bright fresh citrus nose board from young varietal fruit, excellent with a touch of spice wines. “At this early acid line and a long and rich fruit flavours stage most were lingering flavour profile. pushed forward by verging on neutrality,” some residual sugar. noted one judge. 5+ $22 Drinking well now. $28 “However, these Gallagher Wines wines are definitely Canberra District made for ageing and Briar Ridge 'Dairy Riesling will look much more Hill' Single Vineyard 2019 HHH1/2 interesting in five years Hunter Valley Citrus aromas in the or so.” Semillon lemon spectrum. High 2019 HHH1/2 Cassegrain Edition acid red apple palate Audrey Wilkinson A sleeping baby. Has Noir Canberra with mouth-watering Winemakers District Riesling sherbet characters. $30 Selection Hunter chalky lemony aromas Valley Semillon and a crunchy green 2019 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH apple palate with hints of A mix of citrus peel and A youthful wine with a almond aromas with grassy citrus bouquet pineapple. 5+ $35 and generous citrus some attractive mineral rind-like flavours. Good elements and smoky drinking now. $30 complexity. Bright fruit flavours carry across the entire palate. One for ageing. 3-5 $32 46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting Tempus Two SEMILLON Coolangatta Estate Coolangatta Estate Pewter Hunter 2018 & OLDER Wollstonecraft Wollstonecraft Valley Semillon Shoalhaven Coast Shoalhaven Coast 2019 HHH1/2 21 TASTED Semillon Semillon “Tight nose with no 21 AWARDED 2009 HHHHH 2015 HHHH loose bits at this stage.” Beautifully developed Elegant aged aromas Some lime/orange The judges thought toasty nose with a and a bright tight flavours starting to open these were fantastic seamlessly balanced palate structure with up. Time will reward. wines across a range palate looking in great attractive mature of vintages. “It shows condition. “A real flavours. Years ahead 5+ $40 what happens with the classic,” noted one of it yet 5+ $45 secret that is Hunter McGuigan Bin semillon with age,” judge, with more ahead 9000 Hunter Valley said one judge. “The of it yet! 3-5 $60 Tempus Two Semillon Hunter semillon is Pewter Hunter 2019 HHH1/2 unique in the world as Coolangatta Estate Valley Semillon Bright, light and citrusy a great varietal wine Shoalhaven Coast 2017 HHHHH driven style with and also as a food Semillon A dry lemon coloured potential to evolve wine.” 2015 HHHHH semillon. Nose starting beautifully with some A lovely example of to open up with lemon age to it. 5+ $50 Coolangatta Estate an aged Semillon. The curd/apple-like aromas Wollstonecraft nose is an aromatic – as is the palate; its Midnight's Promise Shoalhaven Coast complexity of citrus and complexity of flavours Hunter Valley Semillon cashews with a balance carries all the way to the Semillon 2019 HHH 2011 HHHHH of evolving citrus finish. 5+ $40 A hint of smokiness to A lovely golden hues flavours. Drinking well Allandale Winery the honeyed lemon nose wine looking in excellent now. $45 Hunter Valley with good flavour profile. condition with beautifully Tempus Two Semillon Will open up further. matured citrus aromas Uno Hunter Valley and an excellent balance Coolangatta Estate Semillon 2013 HHHHH 1-2 $18 of elegant citrus fruit Great example of an and acid. $60 Shoalhaven Coast 2014 HHHHH aged semillon with a Semillon Very attractive aromas Iron Gate Estate Coolangatta Estate 2016 HHHH1/2 with distinct honeyed/ deepening lemon hue Shoalhaven Coast and a nose that opens Primera Hunter Semillon Pale golden wine with nutty maturity and up to rich lemon curd Valley Semillon 2009 HHHHH elegant integration of a delightful, well 2019 HHH A golden wine; soft, citrus and melon aromas integrated, well aromas with a lovely open and mature with fruit pastille-like flavour Faint lemon-like aromas toasty cashew and citrus with similar characters balanced apple pie/ profile and savoury with strong crunchy green aromas and excellent echoed on the palate. lemon curd of a palate apple palate and a grippy depth, length and purity Will continue to evolve in with a long lingering notes. 3-5 $35 of well aged melon and finish. 1-2 $25 lemon flavours. $60 the cellar. 3-5 $40 finish. 5+ $75 RidgeView RidgeView Coolangatta Estate 'Generations' 'Generations' Wollstonecraft Reserve Hunter Reserve Hunter Shoalhaven Coast Valley Semillon Valley Semillon Semillon 2009 HHHHH 2019 HHH 2016 HHHH Distinctive super juicy A dry linear style with Dense toasty/melon seamlessly balanced and defined lemon/lime rind fruit bouquet and nicely matured wine. concentration carried developing citrus flavours Complex aromas and by the zesty acidity. with yeasty nuances on a rich citrus fruit flavours lightweight palate. $35 beginning to show 5+ $30 marmalade-like aged notes. 3-5 $60 JUDGES - DAY 2 Denis Gastin David Lowe Wine writer & judge. Winemaker and Alex Woods Asian Wine Editor for consultant for Lowe Born in England and moved Winestate. Regular Family Wines, plus to Australia permanently in judge with the Japan contract winemaker for 20 January 2006 after living here Wine Competition years for other wineries. briefly in 1997. By the end of and Korean Awarded \"Legend of 2006 Alex was studying a full Wine Challenge. the Vine\" by the NSW time Diploma in Viticulture for Contributor to world- government, with 44 Winemaking and had joined wide wine reference years of winemaking. Allandale Winery where he books. Director of Judged at Hunter Valley, remains as a winemaker today. the Asian Wine Canberra and Cowra wine Has travelled extensively Review. shows. Made wine in through wine regions in Bordeaux for five years. Australia, New Zealand and the United States. May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 47

WINES OF NSW Tempus Two Tempus Two McGuigan Personal Midnight's Promise Copper Hunter Pewter Hunter Reserve Hunter Hunter Valley Valley Semillon Valley Semillon Ridge Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2018 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2019 HHH Fresh varietally Light smoky lemon 2019 HHHHH Powerful, up-front, old expressive nose with fragrances with lingering A big powerful wine school style. Has peachy a promise of more to citrus/apple flavours that will appeal to many! aromas and flavours come! Genuine varietal starting to show Has great intensity with hints of vanilla. $22 palate of lemons and marmalade-like maturity. of melon and citrus limes with crisp acidity fruit characters with a CHARDONNAY carrying the flavours 1-2 $40 perfumed lift to the nose 2018 & OLDER across the entire palate. and silky smooth in the McGuigan Shortlist mouth. $50 20 TASTED 5+ $30 Hunter Valley 18 AWARDED Semillon 2018 HHH Allandale Winery Tempus Two Gentle citrus aromas and Hunter Valley A consistent across the Pewter Hunter soft palate with mouth- Chardonnay board. “The benefit of Valley Semillon coating sherbet-like 2019 HHHHH age shows here with 2014 HHHH elements. 1-2 $30 A big, full bodied, lovely concentration of Nicely ageing herbal/ golden tinged wine with, fruit and complexity,” citrus aromas and a Tempus Two Pewter “Drums of attractive said one judge. palate with typical Hunter Valley tropical fruit characters,” “Interesting to see richness coming from Semillon 2018 HHH matched with, “Buckets the aged wines from age with plenty of fruit Subtle lemon tones to the of oak!” Has lovely cooler climate regions showing good varietal nose and “quiet” green rich, long and lingering coming to the fore.” expression. 3-5 fruit flavours peeking flavours. $30 Cumulus Rolling Chardonnay from NSW $40 through. 3-5 $40 Tempus Two Orange Chardonnay is underrated according Pewter Poppy’s 2019 HHHH to the judges. Allandale Winery Tempus Two Uno Block Hunter Valley Lovely cool climate style Winemaker's Hunter Valley Chardonnay with smoky notes to the Canobolas Smith Reserve Hunter Semillon 2016 HHH 2019 HHHHH tropical fruit nose and Shine Orange Valley Semillon Light and bright in the An outstanding peachy flavours with a Chardonnay 2014 HHHH glass, smelling of green chardonnay with a crisp finish. A keeper! 2012 HHHHH Nose still quite closed fruits and tasting of rich beautifully vibrant $15.99 An excellent example for a six-year-old, but citrus fruit. 3-5 $75 honeydew melon Ross Hill Maya of a beautifully aged the palate is opening up bouquet and great & Max Orange chardonnay. “Points for nicely to fruit flavours in CHARDONNAY persistence of varietal Chardonnay still hanging in there,” the golden end of the 2019 fruit flavours that finish 2019 HHHH said one judge. Nutty spectrum! $55 off soft and long. $40 Estery aromas of fruit bouquet with 12 TASTED cashews and figs with mango notes and a rich McGuigan Bin peach overtones and mouthful of lingering 9000 Hunter Valley 8 AWARDED long lingering peach flavours. $70 flavours underscored Semillon with the oak. $25 Robert Stein 2013 HHHH A mixed result here. Iron Gate Estate Reserve Mudgee Lightly aromatic lemon “This was a dry warm Primera Hunter Chardonnay curd/apple aromas with year that resulted Valley Chardonnay 2018 HHHH1/2 an elegant varietal palate in some higher 2019 HHHH Rich fruit nose overlaid showing developing alcohol issues or a Interesting French-like with powerful oak complexity. Has more in lack of vibrancy that style. Attractive, slightly aromas. The palate has it yet. 5+ $50 is surprising for a tropical, aromas and a elegance with sound current vintage wine,” well-rounded palate with varietal fruit flavours Tempus Two commented one judge. good fruit on the mid- nicely balanced by the Pewter Hunter However, there were palate. $40 oak and acidity. $40 Valley Semillon some excellent wines, RidgeView 2015 HHH1/2 particularly from the 'Impressions' Hunter A refreshing style with Hunter, producing Valley Chardonnay a complexity of lemon richer textured wines 2019 HHH1/2 curd, nutty and apple nicely balanced with Attractive “mainstream” characters. Plenty more the oak. chardonnay with toasty to come. 5+ $40 hints sitting over gentle tropical fruit characters. McGuigan Shortlist $35 Hunter Valley Semillon 2013 HHH1/2 Moderate varietal expression of honeyed yellow apples underscored with light lemon notes. 3-5 $30 48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020

regional tasting Robert Stein Ross Hill Pinnacle Nashdale Lane Colmar Estate Cumulus Luna Rosa Reserve Mudgee Orange Chardonnay Colour Series Orange Pinot Rosé Central Ranges Chardonnay 2018 HHH1/2 Orange Chardonnay 2019 HHHH1/2 Rosado 2019 HHHH 2017 HHHH Beautiful hit of cashews 2018 HHH Hints of bronze hues A strawberry jam of Attractive bottle on the citrusy nose with Subtle varietal fruit, and a light tinge of a nose with a hint of age evolving on the a seamless balance of powerful oak and a cherries on the nose mint and attractive appealing pineapple fruit, oak and acid on the warming alcohol finish. with a surprisingly red berry fruit flavours nose. Big mouthful of palate. $35 $35 substantial palate full and cleansing acidity. ripe tropical fruit flavours Tempus Two of savoury fruit flavours $14.99 across the palate. $40 Pewter Poppy’s PepperGreen Estate and grippy finish. $30 Trentham Estate Coppabella Sirius Block Hunter Valley Southern Highlands Highland Heritage The Family Murray Tumbarumba Chardonnay Chardonnay Estate Generations Darling Sangiovese Chardonnay 2018 HHH1/2 2018 HHH Orange Rosé Rosé 2019 HHHH 2017 HHHH A well-made wine with Peach/mango aromas 2019 HHHH Salmon hues and Estery nose with understated elegance. tinged with oak and Berry aromas with a elegant floral/strawberry complex yeast elements Oak is sitting on top of a very flavoursome floral lift and a light aromas with a savoury/ and an impression of the peach/mango fruit palate. $35 refreshing red fruited earthy style of palate pineapple flavours on characters. $40 and nicely textured and hints of candied the soft rounded palate. RidgeView Briar Ridge 'Briar palate with a clean fruit. $18 Rich finish. $60 'Impressions' Hunter Hill' Single Vineyard finish. $CDO Logan Hannah Colmar Estate Valley Chardonnay Hunter Valley Orange Rosé Block 1 Orange 2016 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2019 HHHH Chardonnay A traditional style 2017 HHH Sweet berry bouquet 2016 HHHH of chardonnay with Elements of complexity with hints of rose petals Rich ripe pear and pineapple-like fruit, oaky here but still looks young and good expression pineapple fruit tinges and bottle age and fresh with subtle of varietal fruit on the characters on the nose adding weight. $35 fruit characters. $35 palate with gripping with age adding richness Moppity Vineyards acidity. $25 to the lovely varietal Estate Tumbarumba Cooks Lot Iconique Iron Gate Estate palate. $45 Chardonnay Barrique Orange Primera Hilltops Canobolas Smith 2018 HHH Chardonnay & Hunter Valley Shine Orange A pretty wine with a 2017 HHH Cabernet Rosé Chardonnay moderate amount of A big style coming 2019 HHHH 2014 HHHH gentle fruit and well- together very nicely with The nose is fragrant, Deep golden wine with handled sweetness. $35 robust fruit and a grippy perfumed and floral good concentration of Centennial finish. $50 with lovely rhubarb/ appealing tropical fruit Vineyards Winery strawberry-like flavour characters. Nicely aged Block Southern ROSÉ profile. Nice aperitif and ready for drinking. Highlands style. $30 $70 Chardonnay 10 TASTED PepperGreen Estate De Bortoli Wines 2018 HHH 9 AWARDED Berrima Blush Single Regional Classic Lightly structured wine Vineyard Southern Tumbarumba with subtle peach A strong class with Highlands Merlot Chardonnay aromas and flavours and lots of variations. “This Rosé 2019 HHH1/2 2018 HHH1/2 a robust finish. $25.99 is a style of wine that Reasonable substance A pretty nose; quite Inner City is still trying to find for a rosé with blue/ elegant with a soft Winemakers Vintage its feet in Australia,” black fruit characters, sound fruit palate and Tumbarumba thought one judge. some mid-palate grip some attractive tropical Chardonnay “The market takes us and a drying finish. $25 overtones. $21.95 2018 HHH back to the soft and Cassegrain Seasons Centennial Hints of bananas on the sweet but the wine Hilltops Sangiovese Vineyards Reserve nose with subtle use of [thinkers] look for Rosé 2019 HHH Southern Highlands oak that is repeated on more complexity and Subtle rose petal-like Chardonnay the warm palate. $30 expression, tending to aromas with soft and 2018 HHH1/2 savoury styles.” expressive red and blue Smoky nutty peach fruit flavours. $21.95 aromas with lovely warm soft varietal fruit flavours. “A wine for the future.” $34.99 May/June 2020 W I N E S TAT E 49

WINES OF NSW Robert Stein Farm Cooks Lot Iconique Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Mudgee Rosé Barrique Orange Orange Pinot Noir 2019 HHH Pinot Noir 2018 HHH Hints of plums on the 2018 HHHH1/2 Aromas of raspberry nose and a refreshing Smoky berry aromas with subtle oak strawberry palate with farmyard-like underlay. Good varietal with underlying peach characters adding expression to the dry notes. $22 complexity. Dense and palate. 3-5 $45 spicy on the palate with PINOT NOIR fine grained tannins, OTHER RED robust varietal fruit and a VARIETALS & 12 TASTED lingering finish. $50 BLENDS 10 AWARDED “Huge amount of Logan Weemala 20 TASTED variation here with Orange Pinot Noir NSW starting to 2019 HHHH 19 AWARDED come to terms with Pronounced raspberry pinot,” commented aromatics with elegant A solid and contrasting one judge. “The best restraint to the line-up of varieties and here were very good cranberry/sour cherry styles ranging from showing freshness palate and hints of white firm and grippy wines and fragrance and pepper. $20 to more generous, maintained varietal fleshy, Christmas characters whiles a Centennial PepperGreen Estate cake-like ones. “Very Cassegrain Edition few were a little over- Vineyards Reserve Southern Highlands interesting group Noir de Solere oaked or overripe. Southern Highlands Pinot Noir of consistent wines Hilltops New Pinot Noir 2018 HHHH showing the diversity England Nebbiolo Colmar Estate 2018 HHHH A warm and spicy of the state’s regions,” Barbera Sangiovese Block 1 Orange A raspberry bouquet style with great cool noted one judge. 2018 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir with hints of oak and fruit characters of sour Light ruby wine with 2018 HHHHH a violet-like lift. Lovely cherries and rhubarb, Canobolas attractive subtle soft Lovely ruby red hued layers of dark chocolate, sweet spices and meaty Smith Orange cherry bouquet and a wine with great aroma raspberry and vanilla elements. 3-5 $45 Chambourcin seamlessly balanced, complexity of plums, flavours. $34.99 2008 HHHH1/2 slightly fleshy, palate sweet spices and A deep purple, fragrant pepper. The palate Peter Drayton Wines Kosciuszko and perfumed wine with modest fruit is dense and well Tumbarumba Pinot with spicy black berry flavours and fine-grained integrated with fresh Anomaly Hunter Noir 2015 HHHH bouquet and a zingy tannins. 3-5 $35 blue fruits and firm Valley Pinot Noir Exotic spices and blue palate with unusual savoury tannins. $65 Shiraz 2018 HHHH fruits on the nose with fruit flavours and a firm Aromas of raspberries rich mulberry flavours finish. “A great aged Trentham Estate and plums with and sweet vanillin oak. wine.” $50 The Family Murray cranberry notes. And Ageing beautifully. $22 Darling Nero the good combination D'Avola 2018 HHHH of the two varieties Excellent spicy delivering plum Centennial berry aromas and a flavours. 3-5 $36 Vineyards House deceivingly soft palate Block Southern with slightly sweet/sour Highlands Pinot Noir dark fruit characters and 2018 HHH1/2 lingering finish. $18 A good nose; plenty of red cherry aromas and Logan Weemala delicate confectionery Mudgee Tempranillo fruit flavours with 2018 HHHH spiciness. $26.99 Bright ruby red wine - loads of character with Nashdale Lane toasty sweet berry/plum Legacy Orange Pinot aromas and exotic fruit Noir 2018 HHH1/2 flavours with a nice acid Strawberry fruit driven line. 3-5 $20 style with some earthy elements and slight Inner City confectionery characters. Winemakers New England Tempranillo 3-5 $55 2018 HHHH “A monster that needs time to tame it,” according to one judge. Purple hues, spicy plum fruit and tight acidity. Needs food! 5+ $30 50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2020