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Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

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THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel ReviewsANNUAL 2018 WINESTATE VOL 41 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2017 IN REVIEW & WINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS + MORE! BUMPER EDITION! ANNUAL Edition 2018 SPECIAL EDITION 2017 69-Page special feature The best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from Australia & New ZealandPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Annual 2018 Vin2t0a1g7e Report Vol 41 Issue 1 $14 AUS (inc GST) NZ $15 SGD $19 US $17.99 GBP £11.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB120 HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2017

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the concept of eleven roadsunder heysen trail winesEastern spirit and Western rhyme.In other words, this label is illustrating thetraditional Chinese culture spirit in westernstyle. Cultural exchange and inheritance isenhanced by this fusion of china and westernculture.Beijing Opera Masks, an element of theChinese traditional art culture, expressed inwestern modern art style, formed this uniquewine label.

AD_BarleyStacksHPV_ANN16.pdf 1 16/11/2015 10:23:28 AM NO.287 ANNUAL 2018Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Jane Skilton MW E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley MSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins, YDan Traucki CMVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin MYWestern Australia Mike Zekulich CYQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel CMYNew Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma Jenkins MW KNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] OgdenLifestyle Media Vic Pty LtdPhone: 03 9696 9960Email: [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] Yorke Peninsula’sAustralia award winningGordon and Gotch Australia P/L vineyardInternationalDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2018 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 5

contents FEATURES THE YEAR IN THEANNUAL 2018 37 GETTING BACK TO NATURE REAR-VIEW MIRRORR E G U L A R S The niche production of “natural wine” stirs 205 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: the passions for many wine lovers around 10 Briefs the world, but with no definition of “natural” A Season Of Abundance 22 European Report with Sally Easton consumers can face a confusing dilemma, 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley writes Sally Easton MW. Generally the state’s wine regions - 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Riverland, Clare, Barossa, Adelaide Hills, 28 Wine History with Valmai Hankel 49 WINE OF THE YEAR McLaren Vale and Coonawarra - experienced 40 Grapevine an exceptional 2017 vintage, writes Karyn 118 Wine Investment & Collecting SPECIAL AWARDS FEATURE - Foster. Good winter rains, in some areas 122 What’s it Worth? torrential, followed by a mild summer, little 242 Subscription Form STARTS PAGE 49 disease pressure and a late harvest delivered 266 Aftertaste higher yields and quality fruit, and some It’s been a big year for elite Australian and exceptional winers.PLUS-THE BEST New Zealand wines, writes WinestateOF THE BEST founder, Editor and Publisher Peter Simic. 221 VICTORIA: So the task of deciding which one is theWe revisit the most outstanding wines - rated best can be a daunting but most enjoyable Seasonal Switchfour stars and above - that we tasted in 2017. process. Our three-member judging panel It was a case of chalk and cheese between took two days to re-taste blind over 400 of 124 Sauvignon Blanc Tasting the four-and-a-half and five-star wines tasted the 2016 and 2017 seasons, says Jeni Port. 128 Riesling Tasting over the previous 12 months. It amounts While in 2016 vines struggled in drought-like 132 Pinot Gris/Grigio Tasting to a trophy taste-off to decide the best Top conditions, 2017 was the exact opposite - a 134 Austria Tasting Five winners across 15 categories, plus a cold and wet winter slowed flowering, fruit 140 Rosé Tasting Best Value award category. Then the winning set and ultimately harvest by up to a month 143 Queensland Wine Awards wine, again judged blind, from each group in some regions. Many growers reported 150 New Release Tasting is brought back and re-judged to select lower yields - in some cases just 70 per cent 164 Best of Styles the best wine from New Zealand and the off the 2016 harvest - but while tonnage was 192 Best of New Releases best wine from Australia, and ultimately down growers talked up fruit quality and 156 The 2017 Best of Best Buys the Winestate Wine of the Year. While the flavour.2 04 Best of South Australia judging panel had favourites, the Top Five2 20 Best of Victoria winners in each category fell easily into place 229 NEW SOUTH WALES:2 28 Best of New South Wales with little disagreement and our Wine of the 237 Best of Western Australia Year was a unanimous decision - McGuigan Understanding The Way Forward243 Best of Tasmania Shortlist Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016. It A generally outstanding season was246 Best of New Zealand is only the second time a chardonnay has sat256 Best of NZ Recent Releases 2017 at the pinnacle of our judging process. Its further enhanced after the Wine Industry competition - The New Zealand Wine of the Association and state government signedWinestate Magazine Year - is a fantastic sparkling wine, the very a new memorandum of understanding toIssue Number 88 worthy Deutz Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2013. capitalise on trade opportunities, tourismAnnual 2018 While all the attention is focused on our initiatives, research and development, while Wine of the Year, we also use this process growing the industry at home and abroad,Cover Image & Wine of the Year Awards Feature to announce our Australian and New Zealand reports Winsor Dobbin. In the Hunter a wetBrendan Homan Winemakers of the Year and Wine companies spring extend into the growing season which of the Year awards. delivered excellent canopy growth and better than expect fruit load. In Mudgee the wet 32 2016 VINTAGE REPORT winter generated the fourth consecutive vintage of excellent fruit and wine quality, Late Show Delivers A Top Performance while in the Riverina whites were the stand- out and in Orange tonnage was up. The eight-year trend of earlier and earlier grape harvests was halted in 2017, reports 238 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: Charles Gent. In the southern portion of the nation growers found ripening was slower Deluge Delivers Trophy Bonus and took several weeks longer than in 2016, Heavy, out-of-season summer rains in the and combined with extensive spring rains and absence of summer heat spikes yields state’s historic heart of viticulture - the Swan were up, boosting the national crush and the Valley - caused widespread flooding and confidence of growers and winemakers. In severe crop damage, writes Mike Zekulich. nearly every way 2017 was a growth year Such was the devastation, with crop losses for Australian wine, with the crush up by up to 50 per cent, the region was declared a five per cent to 1.93 million tonnes and the natural disaster zone. average purchase price per tonne of grapes up by seven per cent. Teamed with the US’s 247 NEW ZEALAND: resumption of its former status as Australia’s second-largest export market and the Determination Despite Deluge sustained growth in the Chinese market for If WA was hit hard by torrential rains, then our wine (up by 42 per cent in the past year), there is much to celebrate. New Zealand followed suit being effected by no less than three cyclones. Jane Skilton, MW, writes that is was referred to as a vintage with ‘some challenges’ which could be regarded as the understatement of the year and is a testament to the determination, skill and knowledge that producers managed to salvage what could have been a disaster.6 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

Domesticate ExceptionDISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA BY Phone: 02 6020 6016 - Email: [email protected]

Say hello to Summer with Italy’s favourite,@festivalcitywines ADELAIDE (08) 8349 1200 E: [email protected] MELBOURNE (03) 9361 1681 www.festivalcitywines.com.au DARWIN (08) 8984 4009

editorialTHIS YEAR WE ARE CELEBRATING our 40th Anniversary year of Winestate Magazine (our official birthday will be the May/June issue sostay tuned). Amazing how time flies when you are having fun!To begin the year we are combining our usual Wine of the Year issue into the Annual to create a giant blockbusterissue that covers all our best wines of the year. It is quite remarkable how many quality wines have been producedfrom both Australia and New Zealand many of which we can present in this issue. It is a great credit to the winegrowers and winemakers to produce wines of this standard. These wines continue to win awards, not only withus but at all other major wine shows around the world, against all comers.In 2016 there was general pessimism with intense wine competition and wine prices dropping across the boardfor small winemakers in particular. Whilst the quality of “down under” wine has never been better (as seen inour current 2017 judging where judges have scored the vintage comparable to the likes of 2010) marketing in2017 is still sporadic and many consumers are yet to discover wine.Our friends tell us that within the local market the established restaurant performers are doing well with “popup” partnerships across a number of establishments, whilst there is little thirst for stand-alone new ventures.Extraordinarily in a country of vast resources Australia has managed to maintain among the world’s highestpower/electricity prices, thereby stuffing up the whole hospitality culture making it too expensive a proposition tostay in business, not to mention the extra pressure on individual households. The good news is that individualsare becoming their own food and wine “cafes” at home, entertaining both friends and themselves.The export market is another story. We know through our own Winestate Roadshows to Vinitaly (Europeantrade buyers) and Hong Kong Wine & Spirit Exhibition (Asian trade buyers) how hard our wineries work to getdistributors or individual one-off orders. We do our best to help them.Unfortunately there is not the government subsidy support that wineries in the EU get for packaging and roadshow marketing. However that maychange with a recent announcement that the Australian government is going to contribute $50 million to support wine exports. On the face of it thatsounds fantastic and long overdue, but there are some serious questions to be asked here. My concern is after administration costs the big playerswill suck up most of the funds leaving just crumbs for the 3,000 or so small winemakers. As I understand it only one million dollars has been allocatedto support the hard working small wineries who show the face of Australia at these trade road shows. In my view at least half of this money shouldbe allocated to those wineries who are willing to travel the world preaching the gospel of local wine. In our own Winestate Hong Kong booth I sawfirst- hand buyers from China, Hong Kong, Vietnam and even Cambodia in deep discussion with our small wineries. There is movement at the stationand we should take advantage of it. There can be much optimism for the future. Barring cataclysmic events, it will be time for Australasian wines toshine on the world marketplace stage.In this issue not only do we announce our Winestate Wine of the Year for 2017 but also our Top 5 finalists across 16 categories and the Aldi Trophyfor Best Value wine. This brings together our best wines judged from Australia and New Zealand throughout the year. Then to add to this we alsosupply a complete review roundup of all wines that achieved the high rating of four stars and above throughout the past twelve months.We greatly appreciate all the sponsors of all the trophies who have supported us and the many, many peer winemaker judges, MW's and tradeexperts who make this possible. Without them it wouldn't be possible to evaluate successfully the 10,000 wines or so we judge throughout the year.We also thank our many contributors to the magazine; columnists, Grapevine correspondents, “shorts” suppliers and article writers – sometimes itseems like a cast of thousands. In particular we mention our New Zealand Editor, Jane Skilton MW and NZ Tasting Coordinator, Kay Morganty whohold up our New Zealand end, with New Zealand judging and articles – a great contribution.But our biggest thank you must go to you, our loyal reader. You make us get up early in the morning (and sometimes we abuse you for it) to be ableto organise and conduct the tastings (cry me a river, I hear you say?) and content that go into the publication of Winestate, so that we can all enjoywine, each in ourMowanrkseptecyioaul wr awy.ines to the world!Here’s cheers to 2018 and may your best wine be the next one!Cheers, Join the Australian Wine Industry Export and Buyers mission to Verona in 2015 Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March 2015 The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready Your wine, companies and for buyers sourcing international wines. our ports. Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyers Australia Export Customer Service sourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western and 1300 134 096Peter Simic Eastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America. Equipment and LogisticsEditor/Publisher The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne is 1300 135 801 the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to Import Customer Service Australian wine industry professionals attending the show: 1300 132 813Major Sponsors a- nSpdaceSanud pstapndobrootkeinrgss at preferential rates New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 - Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona Inbound - 0508 333 666 - Logistics - Visitor registration ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. For more information contact: No matter what. Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, www.hamburgsud-line.com Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs The homestead was built by James Amos (1804-1864), and it sits on the highest point of the Swan valley floor, on a craggy knoll that in Gaelic was termed Craigie Knowe. “We, along with our son Alex, have worked hard to bring the vineyard back to health and vitality,” says Glenn Travers. “Our wine is now made off site (by Matt Wood of Spring Vale), allowing us to concentrate on our vines so we can bring you the best wine possible.” The range includes estate pinot noir and riesling, along with pinot gris, pinot noir rosé and a lighter pinot noir, under the entry-level white label. Craigie Knowe, 80 Glen Gala Rd, Cranbrook; phone 0499 901 109 or visit www.craigieknowe.com.au.CHANCE DECISION PAYS OFF GOOLWA DELIVERS ON WHISKY DREAMSAPERAVI, a grape variety that originates in Georgia, has attracted some A DISTILLERY at the mouth of Australia’s largest river system is rampinginterest in Australia - and Hugh Hamilton is one of Australia’s most experienced up production as demand for its products sky rockets. Fleurieu Distillery insaperavi makers. After 12 vintages making the red wine, Hugh Hamilton Goolwa, South Australia, has launched its third single malt whisky in less thanWines’ latest line of Georgian-inspired saperavi wines, the Exotica Collection, 12 months. The first whisky, released just before Christmas last year, sold outincludes no fewer than four different releases. The ancient grape hails from of its 600 bottles within weeks, as did the second release in April. The 55 perone of the world’s oldest wine making regions and its origins date back to cent alc/vol latest release is known as Whisky Kisses and takes the name6000BC. Hamilton’s interest in the variety was sparked in 1997 when he met from the distillery’s 12-hectolitre copper still. The 600-bottle batch is beingGeorgian winemaker Lado Uzunashvili. Without knowing how well the saperavi sold at $198 for a 700ml bottle. Head distiller Gareth Andrews said a loyalwould fare in the McLaren Vale terroir, or if the vines would yield at all, he band of buyers, particularly in Sydney and Melbourne, had led to a surgeripped out a flourishing section of his established vineyard and designated in early orders. “Everything’s just flying out the door - the emails have justit to saperavi. The Exotica Collection includes four signature wines - The been going off,” he said. “We’ve now got a dedicated customer base whoOddball 2015 Saperavi, Oddball The Great 2014 Saperavi and two wines, basically buy a few bottles of everything we do and that is expanding so it’sMtsvane and Georgian Saperavi, made in Georgia in collaboration with hard to tell where we are going to end up.” Fleurieu Distillery is about 80kmUzunashvili. The word “saperavi” translates into English as “ink”. Hamilton south of Adelaide and just metres from the River Murray on Goolwa Wharf,says the grape is incredibly deeply coloured and can be very tannic. “It less than 3km from where Australia’s longest river meets the Southern Ocean.demands different treatment to all other grape varieties we work with. We Andrews said the “maritime” conditions at Goolwa were ideal for maturingconsider ourselves largely caretaker winemakers, but saperavi requires extra whisky becausecare and a very gentle hand.” Try the wines at Hugh Hamilton Wines Cellar of its fresh seaDoor at 94 McMurtrie Rd, McLaren Vale. breezes, fluctuating temperature rangeNEW CHAPTER FOR HISTORIC WINERY and mild summers. All matured inIT’S all change at one of Tasmania’s most historic vineyard properties - Craigie port barrels, theKnowe outside Swansea on the east coast of the Apple Isle. distillery’s first whisky release Just over 40 years since the first vines were planted, there is a new rangeof wines and new cellar door. Glenn and Sandy Travers purchased thewinery in 2013 after holidaying in Tasmania, and have given the property acomplete makeover, including planting new vines and converting the formerwinery into a rustic tasting facility with comfortable al fresco seating. Visitorsare invited to enjoy a gourmet vineyard plate, cheese board or chocolateand wine matching experience, and have a chat to the owners while tasting.Craigie Knowe Vineyard was established in 1979 by then Hobart dentist JohnAustwick who planted 5ha but sold the vineyard in 2009. A subsequent ownerleft the vineyards unattended in 2011 and 2012, giving the Travers familylots of work to bring things back up to scratch. The property also includes acirca 1842 sandstone and bluestone homestead, as well as the pioneeringvineyard. The Travers family also source grapes from a nearby vineyard.Craigie Knowe was one of several properties farmed by the pioneeringAmos family, who accumulated significant holdings in the Cranbrook area.10 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

briefswas unpeated, the second peated and the third “about half way in one of Australia’s most recognised and well-respected brands,” said Winebetween,”Andrews says. “It’s just got a hint of smoke in the end.” The Communicators of Australia national chair Angus Barnes. Walsh entered thedistillery on Goolwa Wharf opened as one of SA’s first craft breweries, The wine industry by chance, born and raised in Adelaide where his family wereSteam Exchange, in 2004 before being rebadged as Fleurieu Distillery in owners of a small pub business - Aldinga Hotel. Walsh spent his days as a2016. It still sells its own beer and gin at the cellar door but has outsourced 12-year-old running the bottle department at their local establishment andits beer production to Lobethal Bierhaus in the Adelaide Hills. counting coins after a long day of trading. He first worked as a lab assistant at Chateau Reynell, formerly known as Walter Reynell & Sons, a wine merchant company. Keen to pursue his passion for winemaking, young Walsh applied to study winemaking at Roseworthy College, but was denied support by his employer who didn’t believe he was equipped to take charge of classification and blending operations. In 1988, Yalumba approached Walsh with the position of chief winemaker, a big step in his career for a brand he admired for their degree of forward thinking. Walsh quickly made an impact among his wine-making peers, producing strong quality vintages early on and leading all production related activities, including viticulture, bottling, packaging and the cellar. Walsh spent 24 years at Yalumba and throughout his time oversaw the purchase and development of many wineries, including Jansz, Dalrymple, Redbank, Oxford Landing and Nautilus in Marlborough, New Zealand. He has since retired from full-time winemaking but remains a prominent figure in the wine industry as a wine sector consultant and chairman of Australian Grape and Wine Authority. Walsh is the fourth person to be awarded Legend of the Vine status in South Australia, joining a list that includes Patrick Illand, Bill Hardy and 2016 winner d’Arry Osborne.ELEVATED TO LEGEND STATUS THAI TIME TICKS ONBRIAN Walsh, independent wine consultant and the national chair for Wine SALA Phuket is one of a growing number of Thai resorts that take wineAustralia, has been named Legend of the Vine South Australia for 2017 at the and food just as seriously as spas and beach facilities. Sala, one ofannual Royal Adelaide Wine Show Awards lunch. Walsh was the recipient for Thailand’s leading independent hotels, is located on one of Phuket’shis outstanding contribution to the Australian wine industry. “Brian has played quietest and cleanest beaches and is just a 20-minute drive from thean influential role in the Australian wine industry with his wealth of knowledge international airport. It is regarded as one of the most romantic hotels andand winemaking experience as chief winemaker and director at Yalumba, is a popular wedding destination. This deluxe pool villa resort featureswine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 11 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E

briefsprivate swimming pools in 63 of its 79 rooms, villas and suites, along with A FIRST FOR SYDNEYbeautiful daybeds and outdoor showers. Enjoy complete privacy if youopt for in-villa dining but you’d miss out on the spectacular sunsets from THE much-anticipated Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour opened its doorsthe poolside Sala restaurant. There is a wide range of traditional Thai and in October, making it the first new-build, international luxury hotel to openwestern dishes on offer, with the signature Kanom Jin dish - rice noodles in Sydney’s CBD in more than 15 years. Centrally located opposite theserved with spicy red coconut curry slowly simmered with daily market International Convention Centre, the $500 million hotel is aimed at revivingfish and infused with ginger, kaffir lime leaf and shrimp paste. The vibe the Darling Harbour precinct and comes with a champagne accent. It alsohere is chilled, with Sino-Portuguese architecture combining with modern signals a renaissance of new hotel development in Sydney, with over 40 hotelsfive-star facilities, a beachfront bar and, during summer, rooftop dining, scheduled to open in the next five years to support the city’s remarkableoffer cool spots for a cocktail or glass of wine from the award-winning list tourism growth. “It is incredibly exciting to be opening Sofitel Sydneyor one of a range of craft beers. Accommodation choices in this tranquil Darling Harbour, which is Sydney’s first new-build internationally brandedsanctuary include the signature pool villas and one and two-bedroom luxury hotel since the 2000 Olympics,” said Simon McGrath, chief operatingpool suites, and guests can enjoy a long-tail boat day trip to the limestone officer of AccorHotels Pacific. To celebrate, Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbourcliffs of Phang Nga. Sala Phuket, 333 Moo 3, Mai Khao, Thalang, Phuket; is offering an opening package which includes overnight accommodation inphone +66 7633 8888 or visit www.salaphuket.com. a superior Darling Harbour view room, buffet breakfast for two at Atelier by Sofitel restaurant, a champagne degustation served at the Champagne Bar for two people, a selection of Laduree sweets and late checkout of 3pm. The grand opening package is priced from $529 and bookings can be made at www.sofitelsydneydarlingharbour.com.au. The hotel offers 590 guest rooms, including 35 suites that boast some of the best views in Sydney. All the hotel’s rooms feature the Sofitel MyBed and have floor-to-ceiling windows with views of Darling Harbour and the city. The suites feature an in-bathroom television, double shower heads and luxurious soaking tubs for the ultimate pampering experience. Exclusive to guests staying in the Club Sofitel rooms and suites on levels 28-24, the Club Millesime Lounge, located at the top of the hotel on level 35, has superb views over Darling Harbour and the city. The hotel was designed by multi award-winning Sydney architect Richard Francis-Jones from Francis-Jones Morehen Thorp architects. Dreamtime Australia Design and the A+ Design Group all collaborated to create this visually inspiring property built by Lend Lease. On arrival, guests will be greeted by the hotel’s imposing 35-storey glass exterior, featuring triangular accents representing sails, and a striking red ochre and blue exterior colour palette which pays tribute to the indigenous clans of the Eora nation who lived around Tumbalong - the Koori name for Darling Harbour. The hotel boasts three bars and a signature eatery, the French- inspired rotisserie and grill Atelier by Sofitel on the third floor. The Champagne Bar is billed as the largest champagne bar in Sydney, highlighting 20 different marques, including Canard- Duchene, Pol Roger, Louis Roederer and Pommer y. There also will be a special Louis Roederer Champagne12 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

from the 2009 vintage in collaboration with artist Philippe Starck, representingthe mix of innovation and French heritage. Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbourwill also be the only hotel in Australia to acquire a special edition 3-litreJeroboam of Roederer Brut Cristal valued at $22,000. The bottle is encasedin 24-carat gold-dipped latticework hand-crafted by two master goldsmithsover four days. Drinks are also served at Esprit Noir lobby bar and Le RivagePool Bar on the fourth floor.WINE AND WOODFIRES VALE WAYNE STEHBENSSUNDAY afternoon sessions at Winstead Wines, at Bagdad, north of Hobart, IT WAS with great sadness that Wingara Wine Group announced the suddenare popular with Tasmanian wine lovers. There will be three “Winstead Wine passing of Katnook senior winemaker Wayne Stehbens on Sunday 05and Woodfire” days over summer, with owner Neil Snare saying: “We are November. Wayne has been an institution on the Coonawarra winemakingopting for event-style occasions this summer - and hope to make them scene for more than 38 years and his passion, skill and dedication to Katnookmemorable.” The season opened on December 3 for the annual Christmas and the Coonawarra region in general were extraordinary. Wayne Stehbensgathering, catered by Stuart Addison of the Quartermasters Arms. Post- made Katnook’s first vintage and headed the winemaking team until hisChristmas dates include January 7, a “Rock Your Socks Off Day” with sudden death, making him one of Australia’s longest serving winemakers.live entertainment, and the annual Tasmanian Open Vineyards weekend In 1979 Wayne produced his first vintage and in 1980, he crafted Katnook’son March 3-4 with tastings and the wood-fired oven in full swing, with the first commercial quantities of wine. Wayne was then fresh from winemakingQuartermasters Arms crew again in action. studies at Charles Sturt University when he was appointed winemaker at Katnook. He was already familiar with the property having worked alongsideDREAM BECOMES REALITY his father, Katnook General Manager Ray Stehbens, during his school holidays.Foreshadowing the success that was to come, these first winesMITCHELTON winery’s new luxury vineyard hotel at Nagambie opened late won 49 awards in their first year. In 1988 Wayne travelled to Graves, nearin 2017, bringing to fruition a long-held dream. Mitchelton Wines’s managing Bordeaux in France, where Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc aredirector Andy Ryan said the idea had been floating around since the winery the leading varieties. Here, he completed vintage and gained insights intofirst opened in the 1970s. ‘‘The original owners actually wanted to put a hotel these wine styles. Wayne was one of the first Australian winemakers to makein back then, but I think there were budget constraints,’’ Ryan said. “This Sauvignon Blanc in commercial quantities. Wayne was a talented winemakeris like closing the loop on a 45-year-old dream.” The build cost of the new with a sophisticated understanding of the unique terroir of Coonawarra. Hehotel is estimated at $15 million. “People will be very impressed,” Ryan said, was passionate about the wines in his charge and about Coonawarra as apointing out that only a handful of wineries across Australia can offer luxury significant wine producing region, having served for two years as Presidentaccommodation. ‘‘From the horse studs to the wineries, there is more than of the Coonawarra Vigneron’s Association. Wayne governed Katnook’senough things to do to keep people here a few days,’’ he said. Nagambie winemaking during the most dynamic growth period of the Australian wineis already popular with tourists who flock to Nagambie Lakes Leisure Park, industry. Wayne cited the loves of his life as his family, wine, fast cars (hebut Ryan said the park operators should not see the hotel as competition. owned two Bolwells which he built from scratch), water skiing and tennis. In‘‘I believe we will not be as family focused as the park,’’ he said. ‘‘You will 2013 Wayne celebrated 35 years of winemaking at Katnook and reflected onsee a lot more guests for weddings, and people coming up for conferences. his career. No words can truly describe the extraordinary impact Wayne hadThis will raise the perceptions of Nagambie.’’ The hotel will offer a luxury at Katnook Estate, Coonawarra - he will be sadly missed.day spa, swimming pool and easy access to the winery and the GoulburnExplorer river cruiser via a jetty on the Goulburn River. NEW BLEND PENFOLDS has released a special wine - Penfolds g3 - blended from three Grange vintages spanning seven years. A Penfolds first, these vintages of 2008, 2012 and 2014 (a vintage to be globally released in 2018) have been blended to create “a completely unique Grange expression”. Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago said: “Put simply it’s Penfolds ‘house style’ distilled”. Gago adds: “Penfolds g3 is a natural end result of the venerated art of blending. It is a blend where each individual vintage selected delivers a depth of character and flavour honouring our flagship Grange”. Blending across vintages is part of Penfolds winemaking philosophy and has been since 1844. Penfolds Tawny styles, famous in the mid 1800s continue a long tradition of fortified wines that Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefscelebrate this particular blending style. Two of the Grange vintages selected the company says, seek authenticity and credibility from brands. Patritti’sfor this wine are recognised as some of the finest Granges released, so why Merchant Series has launched with a range of six wines - pinot grigio,blend them? Gago said: “It wasn’t about selecting the biggest or the best sauvignon blanc and chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills, and GSM, shirazGrange vintages, in fact it was about making something different, but not just and cabernet sauvignon from McLaren Vale, all retailing for $24 per bottle.to be different. Each Grange vintage component selected to make this wine Visit www.patritti.com.au.brings something different to the final blend. Broadly Grange 2008 is a bigbold wine, Grange 2012 is about elegance and sophistication, while 2014 is AN EYE ON AUSTRALIAa young wine that serves to ‘freshen up the blend’.” The original experimental1951 Grange created by Max Schubert is now a wine regarded as one of the THERE are seldom enough hours in the day for global wine industryworld’s most celebrated collectables. Only 1200 bottles of g3 are available player Martin Krajewski.around the world and the price will be $3000 for a 750ml bottle. A self-made man, the English son of Polish immigrants, he owns wine businesses in France and South Africa, and is casting glances towards Australia for the second time. He recently sold his Bordeaux business, Chateau de Sours, to one of the world’s richest men, Chinese billionaire Jack Ma. He’s close to Ma and is helping him as a consultant. The sale of Chateau de Sours, home of one of France’s most vaunted rosés, enabled Krajewski to concentrate on his impressive Grand Cru St Emilion estate, Clos Cantenac, and his South African venture - Aristea. Krajewski, who worked with former Penfolds Grange maker John Duval on the Songlines/ Bylines business in Australia, also owns Chateau Seraphine in Pomerol and has recently invested in a private distillery in Norway called Oslo Handverksdestilleri. The former owner of a recruitment firm in the City of London is a major figure in the world of contemporary art and is casting covetous glances at cool-climate vineyards in Tasmania, saying: “I will be down next year to have a good close look.” Like many of the super-rich, SUBURBAN MERCHANTS GIOVANNI Patritti started making wine in the Adelaide suburbs 91 years ago but it was only in 2017 that Patritti Wines marked its official launch into the contemporary Australian retail market. Patritti unveiled a range of six wines under the Merchant Series label, with premium wines from McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills, new label designs, screw caps and a $24 price point at the Commercial Drinks trade event in Sydney. The PR blurb says: “Inspired by the adventurous spirit of Patritti’s founder, Giovanni Patritti, the labels bear photographs and stories depicting the family’s 91-year history.” Those labels feature old family photos, including one of Giovanni with former world heavyweight boxing champion Primo Carnera, who became a long-time family friend. Giovanni Patritti migrating to Australia from Piedmont in Italy in 1925. He believed he was on his way to America to meet his sister. Instead, he landed at Port Adelaide. Without a word of English he quickly started supplying European-style table wines to other “new Australians”. He soon became known as “John” and established his own small winery in the Adelaide suburb of Dover Gardens. Today, Patritti is the last remaining 100 per cent family-owned suburban winery in Adelaide. The family also owns two vineyards in McLaren Vale and crafts its most exclusive red wines from these vines. The Merchant Series wines are aimed at engagement with millennial wine drinkers who,14 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

briefsKrajewski is down to earth and humble with few airs and graces. Now heand his business partners - Florent Dumeau, a leading oenologist fromBordeaux, and Matt Krone, a local winemaker whose family pioneeredsparkling wines in South Africa some 12 generations ago - have releasedtheir first Aristea wines. “The aim of Aristea is to produce exceptionalwines which speak of their terroir and reflect the Cape itself, from its harshlandscape to its raw beauty,” Krajewski says. “Even the name, Aristea,reflects one of the many plants found only in the Cape which requiresthe brutality of fire to allow it to flower, and then for just one day.” Aristeaowns no vineyards but draws on long-established relationships to sourcesome of the best fruit from around Stellenbosch. For its market debut,Aristea has released a 2016 chardonnay and 2015 cabernet sauvignonfrom Stellenbosch but there are some MCCs - Methode Cap Classiques- in the pipeline, needing a few more months on the lees before theyare released. The launch in London proved a success, with quantitiesalready limited. Visit www.privatecellar.co.uk or www.aristeawines.com.“These wines are the result of four years of very hard work, struggleand careful planning, but it has been well worth the long wait as they‘sing’ a new song about South Africa and its wonderful promise, and forthat Matt Krone, Florent Dumeau and I are happy and grateful to haveexperienced the long journey together,” Krajewski said.BEST OF ITALIAN FAREFAMILY-OWNED Adelaide Hills winery Longview has unveiled a newtasting room known as Cucina. Visitors can enjoy afternoon tastings,imbibing, eating and soaking up the terrific views from the new facility.The Saturno family says Cucina offers a menu of light seasonal Italianfare, designed to complement the Longview wines - and is openWednesday-Sunday from noon-4pm. Among the delights on offer aresmall plates of warm-marinated Adelaide Hills olives or roasted broadbeans and chickpeas with rosemary and chilli salt. A salumi platterfeatures bresaola, chilli fennel cacciatore and smoked leg ham -handmade by the Saturno family. It is served with pickled cauliflower,pickled grapes, cornichons, mustard, warm olives, Skala Bakery ciabattaand extra virgin olive oil. There is also a cheese platter featuring threestyles - soft, hard and blue with Longview “Yakka” shiraz jam, spicedroasted walnuts, fresh apple, dried pears and galletti. Throw in a rangeof panini, daily specials and a blackboard selection of sweet treats, andthere should be something for everyone. Longview Vineyard, Pound Rd,Macclesfield, www.longviewvineyard.com.au. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs ORANGE BLOSSOMS WITH NEW CELLAR DOOR THE booming Orange wine region in Western Central New South Wales now has a new cellar door with the opening of the Swinging Bridge tasting facility just outside town. The Swinging Bridge cellar door is now located at 701 The Escort Way, just 7km west of the Orange CBD. “It has taken us a little while to make sure that our wines have the surroundings to match and the view from the tasting room is stunning,” says owner and winemaker Tom Ward. The Swinging Bridge facility is open Friday-Sunday from 11am-5pm and at other times by appointment. Phone 0487 002 938. THOMSON STEPS UP TO LEGEND STATUS VIV Thomson from Best’s Great Western was named the 2017 Legend of the Vine Victoria at the annual WCA Melbourne Wine Show Awards. Thomson comes from a long line of winemakers and was awarded Legend of the Vine status for his service to the wine industry as one of Australia’s longest-serving winemakers. “Viv has made an outstanding contribution to the wine industry and is a highly respected figure amongst his wine peers in Australia,” said Wine Communicators of Australia national chair Angus Barnes. “His list of accolades, including his 2014 Order of Australia medal, is a true reflection of where his reputation sits within the industry, and why he is recognised as Victoria’s newest Legend of the Vine.” Thomson descends from one of Victoria’s most successful wine families, dating back five generations in the industry. Born and raised in Swan Hill, Thomson moved to Great Western as a six-year-old where his grandfather owned Concongella Vineyards. Winemaking has always been a part of Thomson’s family ethos. In 1920 his grandfather purchased Best’s Great Western where Thomson has spent the majority of his career managing operations and acting as chief winemaker. Since entering a winemaking role in 1962, he has completed 51 consecutive vintages. Best’s now operates across six vineyard blocks, including Rhymney Vineyard, Concongella, Thomson Family Block, Nursery Block, Barts and Marcus and The Hill Block. The winery’s Concongella and Nursery Block were planted in 1868 by Henry Best, Best’s Great Western original founder.16 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

briefs alumni, many already making significant contributions to the sector through their own companies, sector committees, company boards and in research. “I have every confidence that this group has the nous to embrace all it has learned and implement this knowledge in rewarding and positive ways.” The 16 graduates are: Alexia Roberts, Galvanized Wine Group; Richard Angove, Angove Family Winemakers; Sarah Collingwood, Four Winds Vineyard; Chris Dent, viticulturist; Claire Doughty, Brand Warrior Communications; Paula Edwards, Winegrapes Australia; Shirley Fraser de Zolt, Byrne Vineyards; Mary Hamilton, Hugh Hamilton Wines; Simon Killeen, Simao & Co Wines; Richard Leask, Leask Agriculture; Chris Morrison, consultant; Gwyneth Olson, Pepper Tree Wines; Wes Pearson, Australian Wine Research Institute; Natalie Pizzini, Pizzini Wines; Anthony Robinson, Treasury Wine Estates and Marc Soccio, Agfinity.LLOYD’S LEADERSHIP RECOGNISED DIESEL SET TO DELIVERCORIOLE Wines kingpin Mark Lloyd has been presented with the 2017 Len HOME Hill is not only one of the leading wine producers in Tasmania, it is alsoEvans Award for leadership in the wine industry. The McLaren Vale producer home to an outstanding cellar door/restaurant complex with superb vineyardhas a special place in the Australian industry as a serious producer of shiraz views. And just a couple of weeks after the three-day Cygnet Folk Festival abut Lloyd has also worked tirelessly to introduce a more diverse range of few kilometres down the road, Home Hill’s Ranelagh complex will now hostgrape varieties into the country, including sangiovese (1985), fiano (2001) the Huon Blues Festival. Multiple award winner Diesel and bluesman Ashand picpoul (2011). He also made revolutionary advances to the Australian Grunwald will headline the inaugural event. Diesel, best-known for 1990solive oil industry in 1989, improving the knowledge and quality of table oil hits Come to Me, Tip of My Tongue and One More Time, will appear with aexponentially with the introduction of a centrifuge decanter, the first of its kind full band. Diesel and Grunwald will be joined by several local support acts,in the county. His contribution and unwavering support for the arts, music in including the Ross Sermons Band and blues guitarist GB Balding and thereparticular, has lead to the development of one of the country’s most celebrated will be several food vendors on site to feed the hungry hordes. Tastings ofweekend-long chamber music collaborations - the Coriole Music Festival. Home Hill’s range of outstanding pinot noirs and other table wines will also be available. The family-owned winery won the Jimmy Watson Trophy for itsNEW LEADERS EMERGING reserve pinot a couple of years ago. The Huon Blues Festival will run from noon on January 28 and buses to and from Hobart will be available. General SOME young (and not admission tickets are $55.59. Bookings: www.moshtix.com.au. so young) wine industry leaders graduated from FIRE UP THE SMOKER the Future Leaders in September, completing a VISITORS to Tasmania have yet another gourmet option with the opening of program that is designed the Taste House at Woodbridge, 30-minutes south of Hobart. to prepare them to be the next generation The Taste House is the new venture at Woodbridge Smokehouse, an artisan of Australian wine business known for producing some of the finest smoked seafood. Visitors leadership. The program can enjoy traditionally-smoked ocean trout and Atlantic salmon direct from is a joint initiative of Wine the smoker, which is just down the road from Grandvewe Cheese. TheAustralia, Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) and AustralianVignerons (AV) that gives emerging leaders, from early to mid-career, anopportunity to develop leadership, business and marketing skills. Over asix-month period, graduates heard from leaders both within and beyond thewine sector, including some of Australia’s best speakers on the topics ofinnovation, leadership and culture, and connected with people from acrossthe grape and wine community, including Future Leaders alumni. WineAustralia chair Brian Walsh said: “Since the first program in 2006, there hadbeen seven intakes, including the latest vintage. Now there are over 100 Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsWoodbridge Smokehouse is set on a 10ha apple orchard. Traditional hand- just a short drive from Melbourne Airport. Among the newest - and certainlysmoking processes using a mixture of local hard woods (including the apple most innovative places to stay - is family-owned-and-operated Clifftop atorchard shavings) create delicate and distinctive flavours. Foodies are invited Hepburn, which was voted No.1 in Australia of over 40,000 holiday homesto discover the unique taste for themselves by dropping into the tasting room in the Stayz program, and has also been named as one of Australia’s mostto sample the award-winning fare. The Taste House is open daily 10am-4pm, romantic getaways. Think magnificent views, super-comfortable beds andnoon-4pm on Saturdays, and by appointment on Sundays. The setting - with luxe furnishings, and a range of gourmet treats, including local chocolates.its stunning water views - provides an irresistible backdrop to a tasting table Book your package, adding perhaps a cheese platter, or bottle of Passingwith products including a new salmon spread with lemon and crackers. On Clouds wine, when you book online. Imagine having your own full-sized pinballThursdays and Fridays there is a Go Behind The Production Tour (for groups machine, a two-person day bed that doubles as a swing, or an in-house Spotifyof four-eight, with bookings essential) to reveal the finer details of the purpose- system. The owners here have thought of the lot. And just across the road is thebuilt smokehouse and processing facility. Guests can see how a small team Old Hepburn Hotel (out of sound range, thankfully), which often features livewith over 75 years of experience between them follow long-established music. The three villas at Clifftop - Evoke, Serenity and Tranquility - can besttraditions to fillet, brine, smoke and hand slice the fish. Tours last about an be described as eclectic. They are a marriage of street art and modern designhour and cost $45 per person, including tasting samples. A liquor licence has with life’s little comforts - top-notch kitchens, wood fires, comfortable beds, freebeen applied for. The Taste House is at 59 Thomas Rd, Woodbridge, just past and fast internet, hammocks with a view. Visit www.clifftopathepburn.com.au.Kettering and the Bruny Island Ferry turn off. For tour bookings or generalinquiries phone (03) 6267 4960 or visit woodbridgesmokehouse.com.au.WEEKEND HOTSPOTS PROTECT YOUR WINEDAYLESFORD and neighbouring Hepburn Springs are fast emerging as the A NEW way of storing wines from opened bottles is being promoted as an idealhottest of weekend hotspots in rural Victoria. With dozens of restaurants, cafes Christmas gift for wine lovers. Coravin, a new US-designed, cutting-edge wineand wine bars, spa facilities and a growing number of accommodation options, system allows wine lovers to easily sample, pour and enjoy any wine - withoutthere are few better spots to indulge in a day or two of gourmet exploration committing to the entire bottle. In addition to the existing cork technology, the new Coravin Screw Cap technology, designed especially with the Australian market in mind, protects almost any wine from oxidation using Coravin’s proprietary patented technology. From sampling wines to enjoying a treasured aged wine by the glass, Coravin eliminates the issue of saving special bottles for occasion drinking only, and allows wine lovers to taste and share a range of wines with friends and family. Once accessed with Coravin, wine can continue to be stored and preserved as if it was never open.When Coravin’s screw caps are used correctly, wine is protected from oxidation for up to three months, the designer promises. Greg Lambrecht, a nuclear engineering graduate from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and wine lover, is the name behind Coravin, which was launched overseas in 2013 after a decade of development and testing.18 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

briefsTHAI WITH A DIFFERENCE SPARKLING BUBBLES AWAYA CARVERY is a particularly British delight but now visitors to Pattaya in A SPARKLING wine that was originally made in-house as a wine project, isThailand can enjoy roasted meats at one of the region’s newest luxury hotels. becoming one of the fastest-performing sparklings for major Yarra ValleyMeat lovers can make a delicious start to the weekend at Movenpick Siam producer Domaine Chandon. Chandon S, a blend of sparkling wine andHotel Na Jomtien Pattaya with the launch of a new weekly Friday Night Carvery orange bitters, was released last summer and senior winemaker Dan BuckleRoast and Buffet at the resort’s Twist restaurant. The highlight of the evening says its success has been so great he expects that production of the wine inis a live carving station featuring roasted prime pork rib, leg of lamb, farm the next few months will reach “tens of thousands” of cases. “As of next yearchicken, sea bass in salt crust and Cantonese duck. Featuring a contemporary production will be as big as our sparkling rosé,” he says. Originally instructeddesign with a laid-back vibe, Twist is an inviting venue for casual buffet-style to do something that “breaks all the champagne rules,” Buckle says he lookeddining. On Saturdays, the restaurant serves a spectacular seafood buffet with to cocktail mixologists for inspiration and zoned into the original champagnean array of different specials, including mussels, sweet cockles, oysters, blue cocktail with Angostura bitters for his inspiration. The success of Chandoncrab, prawn and freshly caught local fish. “Our carvery and buffet evenings S appears to have inspired other Chandon winemakers around the world.bring together a choice of fine cuisine in two incredible dining experiences,” Chandon California now makes a sparkling wine using strawberries, basilsays Adel Mojarrad, the hotel director of food and beverages. There is also a and Meyer lemon, while Chandon Argentina employs grapefruit as a blender.very good international selection of wines on offer. PARADISE ON THE MOVENEW LOOK MAJOR changes in the Geelong wine scene with winemaker Doug NealTHE rebirth of a wine label that has long been dormant calls for something transferring Paradise IV winemaking to new digs at the nearby Del Rios ofspecial, something eye-catching on the inside of the bottle as well as out. Anakie winery.For the recent relaunch of its Preece label, Mitchelton embraced one of themost modern interpretative graphic designs in the country. And it was based After a time as winemaking consultant, he steps up to become winemakeron an algorithm. at Del Rios, with Del Rios owner Gus del Rio introducing major changes to winemaking at the Anakie site from the 2017 vintage. “We are making wine in Data for rainfall, monthly mean temperatures from the Nagambie Lakes smaller batches,” he says, “four tonnes is our biggest”. Almost all grapes areregion and individual vintages were combined with data specific to milestones basket pressed, wild ferments are embraced and overall, winemaking is far, farin the annual life of individual grape varieties such as the dates of budburst, more time consuming and hands-on. “We are making the wines now, no moreflowering, veraison and harvest. Symbolic data was also included such as the employing a winemaker,” he says in reference to the recent departure at Delbirth year of Mitchelton’s first winemaker, the legendary Colin Preece (1903) Rios of ex-Cape Mentelle winemaker John Durham. Grapes like marsanne, whichand the height of Mitchelton’s landmark tower (55m). The results are quite Neal champions, are expected to get new life in his hands and for the first timestunning with no two labels the same. in a long time he will also get back to making pinot noir. Mitchelton’s chief winemaker, Travis Clydesdale, says the new labels indicate FALLING DEMANDvisually what he is hoping to achieve in the bottle - progressive styles ofchardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. CONTINUED falling sales for cask wine have been blamed in part for Accolade Wines announcing 35 redundancies from its workforce at Berri Estates in the In other Mitchelton news, the winery’s new 58-room boutique hotel and day Riverland. Accolade Wines Australian operations manager Wayne Ellis saidspa was set to open its doors in early summer 2017. market changes and the move by consumers to bottled wine had led to the decision. At its height, Berri Estates produced around 85,000 casks a day,BACK IN LOCAL CONTROL however the consumption of cask wine has been in serious decline for the last decade. The company announced the redundancies around the same time asA SIGNIFICANT piece of Hunter Valley wine history has been placed back into it announced construction of a $40 million bottling plant and distribution centrelocal hands following the sale of the Ben Ean vineyard to winemakers Brian at Berri Estates. The new plant will have the capacity to produce around eightMcGuigan and Colin Peterson. million bottles annually and will create 40 new jobs. The vineyard in Pokolbin, historically the home to the Lindeman’s vineyard, KOLKKA TAKES CHARGEwinery, cellar door, distillery and 1843 Harvest Cafe was acquired in Septemberfrom Australia’s largest wine producer, Treasury Wine Estates. The sale was PHILLIP Monaghan, co-founder and winemaker at Curly Flat, one of therumoured to be around $8 million and it is expected that the new owners will country’s premier pinot noir and chardonnay producers, has left the company.put a further $1.5 million into the site’s refurbishment. The new owners will His share in the vineyard and winery at Lancefield in the Macedon Ranges hasresume wine production and intend to also use the winery’s old brandy still for been bought by his former wife, co-founder and business partner Jeni Kolkka.the first time in 80 years. Treasury Wine Estates will keep the Lindeman’s brand. Stepping into the role of winemaker is Matt Harrop, formerly of Shadowfax Wines in the Geelong region. “It will be a clean break,” says Kolkka, indicating that Monaghan will no longer have any role to play at the winery. “Curly Flat wines will continue to get better, and I wish Phillip well with whatever he does in the future.” She says she now intends to work to build the brand and has plans to release older vintages of chardonnay and pinot under the new Library Wines portfolio. In October she presented a tasting of the aged wines at a Master of Wine tasting in London. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 19

briefsWOMEN MAKE THEIR MARK approached by the owners of Mt Ida vineyard in Heathcote to make their shiraz. “I was in love,” he says. A SCIENTIST researching innovative solutions to the effect of climate In 1987 he struck out on his own setting up the Hanging Rock Winery change on the Australian wine with his family and, still in love with Heathcote shiraz, took a lease on a industry, and a viticulturist undertaking small vineyard at the southern end of the Mount Camel Range. Last month one of the most extensive viticultural in a rare tasting, 30 years of Hanging Rock Winery Heathcote shiraz were works ever undertaken in Tasmania, celebrated - good vintages and poor vintages alike, together with the odd are among the winners in this year’s no show (no wine was made 1993-96 while a new Heathcote vineyard was Australian Women In Wine Awards. planted). John’s son, Rob, who took over as chief winemaker for the 2011 vintage - a challengingly wet year - is now the guiding hand for the wine The awards, which acknowledge from one of the most idiosyncratic wine regions in the country, a wine of and reward the work of women in the deepest, darkest colour with power and elegance. wine, and those who champion equality and fairness for all sexes BROTHERS IN CHARGE in the workplace, were presented in London in conjunction with Wine THERE has been a changing of the guard at Dal Zotto Wines in the King Valley, Australia. Researcher of the Year with brothers Michael and Christian Dal Zotto buying the wine business from was awarded to Christine Bottcher, their parents. a postdoctoral fellow at the CSIRO Agriculture and Food, Waite Campus, Otto and Elena Dal Zotto established the vineyard more than 30 years ago Adelaide. Cellar Door Person of the near Whitfield and were pioneers of the prosecco grape in Australia as well as Year was awarded to Jasmine Morgan enthusiastic supporters of Italian wine grapes in general. at Caudo Vineyard in the Riverland.Viticulturist of the Year was awarded to Jennifer Doyle at Jansz Vineyard in Michael is chief winemaker for the company and its CEO. Christian is in chargeTasmania’s Coal River Valley. Marketer of the Year was awarded to Ebony of sales and marketing. The brothers intend to concentrate on prosecco andTinkler of Usher Tinkler Wines, Hunter Valley. Owner/Operator of the Year went grow the segment. They produce 40,000 cases accounting for 50 per cent ofto Sarah Collingwood, Four Winds Vineyard, Murrumbateman. the family’s wine business but plans are in place to increase production by 30Workplace Champion of Change went to Professor Eileen Scott, of Adelaide per cent next year and 15 per cent each year following. “Prosecco is part of ourUniversity, who is the Deputy Dean for Gender Equality and Diversity in family’s history,” says Michael. “I learned the art of making prosecco from mythe Faculty of Sciences. Winemaker of the Year was awarded to Virginia father and he learned it from his father, so we’re really proud of our heritage.”Willcock at Vasse Felix, Margaret River. A new award, Woman of Inspiration,was awarded to long-time Wynns Coonawarra Estate chief winemaker Sue GROWING A MEMORYHodder. Sarah Ahmed, a British-based wine writer and wine judge, wasnamed Honorary Australian Woman In Wine - UK. De BORTOLI Wines matriarch, Emeri De Bortoli, has spent 12 years establishing one of the biggest private gardens in the Griffith region dedicated to her lateYOUNGER DRINKERS SHUN CHARDONNAY husband, Deen De Bortoli.THE roller coaster ride for chardonnay in Australia continues, with latest It is next to the wine family’s Bilbul estate winery in Griffith where she has livedresearch indicating that younger wine drinkers are moving away from since her marriage to Deen in the 1950s. The impressive 6ha memorial gardenthe grape. includes a rock waterfall overlooking the company’s famous Noble One vineyards, a dam and restaurant-size fruit and vegetable garden, and was opened for the The report, by the Wine Intelligence group, revealed that just 43 per cent first time in October during the Spring Fest Griffith festival of gardens.of regular wine drinkers aged 25 to 34 years of age have drunk chardonnaycompared with 61 per cent of 55-64-year-old wine drinkers. “Our latest reportdemonstrates the extent to which our environment has an impact on ourdrinking habits,” says Lulie Halstead, CEO of Wine Intelligence. “For those whostarted drinking during the 1980s chardonnay boom, chardonnay is still thego-to varietal. For those living in wine-producing regions, their first instinct isto reach for familiar local wines. And for the younger, well-travelled generation,their exposure to European varietals is reflected in a much wider and variedvarietal repertoire.” The report found that 25 to 34-year-olds are also the mostadventurous regular wine drinkers in Australia, with 51 per cent agreeing thatthey “enjoy trying new and different styles of wine on a regular basis”.LOVE AFFAIR CONTINUESUNTIL 1980 the only experience winemaker John Ellis had with the shirazgrape was limited to the Barossa and Hunter valleys. But then he was20 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

GrünerUp, Up & Away Rosé Gold Trophy Adelaide Hills Wine Show

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWGRAPPLING WITH A CHANGING CLIMATEOF the northern European wine regions Chablis much more than 13 per cent, not even in 2003 (a revolves. Marcuello said: “there is a small windowis something of a signal of the effects of climate year of huge heatwave across France). But in 2015 for ripeness, just two days”. Added to which, he saidchange, both negative and positive. Chablis everything was 13 per cent”. Just in the last three Fevre focus on ripeness balance between sugarhas long been considered cool marginal for years, Chablis has experienced weather which and acidity which “is typically reached earlier thangrowing chardonnay and the continental feel is erring to the extreme - a notably hotter year phenolic ripeness. We lose part of the freshnessto its climate has added significant spring frost followed by two consecutive serious frost years. with phenolic ripeness” so they have just a narrowrisks, as both 2016 and 2017 have proved, rather Will the essence of Chablis change if its wines get window to pick before it arrives.devastatingly in cases. to the point where they might always be achieving 13.5 per cent? Certainly there are viticultural Whether climate change will have a long-term Michel Laroche, of Domaine d’Henri, explained: strategies to offset this in the generational term stylistic influence on the wines of Chablis only time“in 2016 we got a quarter of a normal crop. We did … greater shading, increasing yield to delay will tell. In the meantime an emerging discussion250mm worth of rain of frost protection, but then ripening (surely a blasphemous idea?), changing about “left bank” and “right bank” is one that maymildew followed.” So first they sprayed to protect rootstocks etc. Every region has access to such be worth following, or maybe one that focuses onthe buds from frost, but it takes time after the ice has annual canopy management measures. exposition in any given vintage. All the grand crusmelted for all that moisture to drain away. Enough are on the right bank of the river Serein, generallytime for mildew to take hold. Then frost hit again in At the other end of the facing south and south west - the warmest angles2017, making things a real struggle. in this cool climate, northern hemisphere location. temperature spectrum, the Some 70 per cent of the premier crus are on the The frost story at William Fevre is the same - in left bank, with generally south east and southerly2016 they harvested a quarter of their usual crop. greater long-term warmth of aspect, so morning and noonday sun.In 2017 they lost 20-40 per cent of production. AlainMarcuello, their hospitality manager, said: “there climate change brings its own It’s more complicated than this but broadly, thewere no (vineyard) candles available to buy this left side, with cooler morning sun aspect mayyear” for frost protection. He said you need 500 issue for Chablis. be a tad cooler. Certainly the mainly premierburners per hectare, per night, it’s an expensive crus side is often considered to be fresher, morething, even when you buy them. In 2016 there Yet part of Chablis’ soul is its freshness, crispness “mineral,” more austere, taut, pure, with the rightwas only one night of frost; in 2017 there were two of acidity, some would say, tautness, leanness, bank being proferred as opulent, generous, withweeks. In acknowledgement of the rise in climatic austerity. The sort of “skinny chardonnay” styles richness of body. Herve Tucki, the ambassadorunpredictability Marcuello added: “we have not cooler regions in Australia have been favouring in the of La Chablisienne says there is “more muscleproduced a normal yield since 2011”. last decade. The most recent quintessential vintage on right bank”. of this style was 2014, an outstanding vintage. He pointed out that it was technical advances in Laroche said of 2014: “the acidity is high. You have On the left side, Les Lys, a part of Vaillon premierfrost protection measures during the 1950s that to have fruit which is ripe, and keep the freshness, it’s cru, is unusually north-facing. Sebastien Dampt, ofenabled the Chablis vineyards to expand from the backbone that makes the wine.” He added you Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils, said: “it keeps goodthe then 600ha to around 5500ha today. Vineyard cannot overstate the importance of acidity, adding freshness,” though for him the differences are morecandles/burners, spraying, even electrical wires “in 2014 acidity was 20 per cent higher compared to do with soils and vine age than which side of thehave made it possible to plant more vineyards. to 2015”. Elevated acidity is important even though river you are. He added: “the left bank has moreThe quality premium of wine made mostly makes the malolactic fermentation is traditionally done in chalk with clay and the right bank has more clay,it worth the costs and risks. For example, in Chablis because of the region’s cool climate, high more richness.” Yannick Vilain, Chateau de Chemillyconjunction with Domaine Long Depaquit, William acid, profile. Few are making wholesale changes echoes this view: “vine age and soil differences areFevre installed 1.5ha worth of electricity wires in with regard to malolactic fermentation. But as in more important than left bank-right bank.”Grand Cru Vaudesir in 2004 which Marcuello said Champagne, where several producers are trialling“was very expensive to install, but the electricity is blocking the malolactic fermentation to retain extra However, Julien Brocard, of Domaine Jean-Marcnot expensive,” and over about 10 years the costs freshness, it could become an option in Chablis. Brocard, is not so sure. He said: “the right bank,are comparable with other methods. with mainly south west afternoon sun; 30 years ago This fruit ripeness - acid freshness balance is a this was more efficient. Now we are warmer, the sun At the other end of the temperature spectrum, the finely tuned thing on which Chablis’ core identity from the morning - mainly on the left bank - keepsgreater long-term warmth of climate change brings a certain freshness. We’re getting better balanceits own issue for Chablis. A gentle 12.5 per cent from the left bank”. But he added there are lots ofalcohol is rather typical for Chablis’ wine. Laroche different aspects, expositions. So far this discussionsaid in Chablis, “ripeness, physiological ripeness is in very broad strokes but it will be interesting tois achieved around 12-13 per cent. I’ve never seen follow the fine brush strokes over time. 22 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

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winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY SURVIVING INTO OLD AGEOUR oldest vineyards date back to the 1860s and costs in replanting. Eutypa problems increase as explains. They also use the layering processthey are deservedly regarded as national treasures. the vine grows older and is a sleeper disease with which Henschke finds works well on dry-grownBut just like tending to the needs of our old-age it only being detected after several years once it is vineyards. This is where a long cane is trainedpensioners it can be a challenge to keep these present. It is one, if not the major, disease affecting down to the ground and buried with the endvineyards ticking over. Australian vineyards. Eutypa spores sit in infected bent up at the point of where there is a missing wood and can be spread by wind and rain. The vine. Over time this cane develops its own root But at what age does a vine become an old spores then enter through fresh pruning wounds. system and when it is strong enough the cane isvine? There is no agreement on this. In France The fungal infection can cause dieback in cordons severed from the “mother” vine and a new vinethe term vieilles vignes is used on labels but or the arms of the vine as well as poor fruit set is established. It is a traditional way of replacingthere is no EU control on the name. In 2009 the and uneven ripening. The vine will eventually die. vines in Europe and still used in some areas suchBarossa Valley established its Barossa Old Vine “Good pruning skills are of utmost importance to as Santorini.Charter to enable old vineyards in the region to be keep the sap wood healthy without large wounds,”registered. This classification starts at 35 years of says Henschke. She goes on to stress that it is It is hard, neigh on impossible, to say that oldage with the Barossa Old Vine category. Next is always better to cane prune rather than spur prune vines make better wines as there are too manythe Barossa Survivor Vine for vines 70 or above. old vines. “The pruners can take new wood each variables that come into play. Often old vinesThe Survivor term is used to indicate vines that year and form a new crown away from the eutypa- are ungrafted, of dubious clones and dry growndodged the bullet of the 1987 South Australian vine infected section,” she adds. whereas younger vines are clonally selected,pull scheme where the government paid growers grafted and designed specifically for the site.to pull up unwanted old vines due to a grape It is hard, neigh on Balance between leaves and fruit is important.glut and uneconomical prices. Next comes the It is interesting to note that some great wines areBarossa Centenarian Vines which are 100 years impossible, to say that old produced from really young vines such as theirold and over. Finally, the Barossa Ancestor Vines first crop at three years old. This might be due toare over 125 years old and are some of the oldest vines make better wines as their lack of established canopy and better fruitvines in the world. exposure. When the vine gets into old age, say there are too many variables at 35-50 years old, they might get less vigorous Phylloxera, the microscopic aphid that destroyed and again come into balance with less activepractically all of Europe’s vineyards in the late 19th that come into play. canopy and again better fruit exposure. However,Century, didn’t get into South Australia which is why Henschke stresses, “there is no reason for thewe now have our old vines. In Europe only pockets Not all vineyards should or can be nurtured into vines to lose their vigour unless the pruning orof vineyards planted on sandy soils survived. One old age. If there are better clones available then reworking (to a new trellis, for example) has ledof the most well documented vineyards can be it might be worth replanting the vineyard. Also, if to Eutypa infections from large cuts and poorfound in Champagne and owned by Bollinger. the productivity levels fall then a decision needs technique.” The skill of the viticulturist could be aOther remote locations such as the Greek island to be made if it is more economical to replant. It is determining factor in the management of vines withof Santorini, with its rare volcanic ash soils, was reported that Wynns in Coonawarra has replanted increasing age and for many years we have beenanother environment where Phylloxera didn’t 25 per cent of its vines over the past 10 years. saying that the next step-up in wine quality is goingsurvive, and while their baskets pruning system Wynns found that in general its 40 to 50-year-old to be achieved not in the winery but the vineyard.(Kouloura) gets renewed every 20 or so years some vines were experiencing health decline.of the roots of the vines can be up to 300 years old. But Henschke tells me we might be getting a You obviously do lose vines to old age and the bit closer to a scientific answer on the question Renowned viticulturist Prue Henschke is the Henschkes have a long-term replanting program of whether old vines influence wine quality.custodian of some of Australia’s most treasured to ensure the future of these great sites. “We have A research project looking at “The Effect ofold shiraz vines at the Hill of Grace Vineyard in carried out a mass selection program to select Grapevine Age on Vine Performance, Grapethe Eden Valley. She considers the fungal disease cuttings from the best performing vines, grow and Wine Composition, Sensory Evaluation andeutypa as the biggest challenge in tending her them for 30 years and select the best performers Epigenetic Characterisation,” by the Universityold vines. Eutypa is one of the grapevine trunk from the nursery. The cuttings from these are then of Adelaide, and funded by the Barons of thediseases (GTD) of which there are a number. It used to replace vines that have died,” Henschke Barossa, will hopefully be published soon andis a global problem for the wine industry and the dispel some myths and shed more light on theFrench Wine Institute puts the cost at $A1.5 billion topic. a year in lost production due to declining yields or24 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGROOMS WITH GRAND VIEWS - THE WORLD’S NEWEST HIGH-END HOTELSHIGH thread count sheets, impeccable service The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art opened presides over the menu in the signature restaurant andand a hard-to-replicate atmosphere are always its doors at ground level as the South Africantop of mind when choosing where to stay. But new equivalent of New York’s MoMA in September. there’s a La Prairie spa and VIP cabanas, of course.hotel openings around the world offer much more - The views from the windows of this 28-room luxurypersonal and cultural enrichment, real experiences enclave are the stuff of Instagram legend - Table Located just outside the manic intensity ofand the opportunity to put something back. Mountain, Lion’s Head and Devil’s Peak. Or, better yet, drink them in with a cocktail at The Silo Rooftop Shanghai, Amanyangyun threw open its tranquil Backed by billions of dollars of government and bar where prior reservations are mandatory.corporate investment, Parramatta has morphed into doors in November and is easily the most ambitiousSydney’s second CBD. If the massive local Porsche Hardby Fiji’s Great Astrolabe Reef, Aussie propertydealership is a good indication, Parra was definitely billionaire Lang Walker has dialed up the definition project of the prestigious Aman luxury hotel group.overdue for its first five-star hotel. SKYE Hotel Suites, of luxury in the South Pacific with the stunning, multi-with 72 apartment suites, opened in August to “fill million-dollar Kokomo Island Resort. Only 45 minutes Over the past decade, 10,000 camphor trees andthe gap” for business travellers, staycationers, and from Nadi by chopper or seaplane, the 21 thatchedinterstate visitors. A self-styled “vertical village”, the waterfront bures and six palatial “residences” anchor 50 Ming and Qing dynasty homes have beensoaring towers were designed by leading architects the 56ha private island rimmed with white sandAllen Jack + Cottier and Koichi Takada Architects. beaches. The restaurant serves sustainably-sourced transported and re-assembled as 26 luxury antique meals using island-grown fruit and vegetables, and The plush property is only 200m from Parramatta locally caught and raised fish and meats. villas. Yangyun means “nurturing of the clouds”Square and accesses high-end shopping andcultural must-dos. Virtual concierge tablets link Aussie property billionaire and the harmonious effect of the ornamental lakes,to all the hotel’s services such as the gym, pool,sundeck, spa, sauna and the Husk & Vine Kitchen Lang Walker has dialed up carefully landscaped gardens and traditional& Bar, the on-site restaurant which has scored acereviews from the get-go. the definition of luxury in buildings mimic a Chinese water colour painting. Apart from Stephen Seckold’s (ex-Flying Fish) the South Pacific with the There’s a choice of six dining venues, includingMediterranean and Middle Eastern-oriented menu,Husk & Vine’s wheat and wine concept was inspired by stunning, multi-million-dollar Lazhu, a top-flight Chinese restaurant, of course,something a lot closer to home. During construction,workers uncovered a colonial era house from the Kokomo Island Resort. the NAMA Japanese, and the Lakeside Cafe.1840s, a convict hut, wheelwright’s workshop and thecellar of the Wheatsheaf Hotel, and the dig has been Warsaw was pulverised during World War II and Repair to The Bar to be waited on like an emperor.preserved under glass on the restaurant’s terrace. the city’s most plush hotel - the Europejski - didn’tThe cool-climate boutique wines from Australia and escape the mass destruction. Rebuilt in the 1960s When a Berlin hotel says it aims to push buttonsoverseas are a far cry from the plonk of yore, and a and reclaimed by its former owners after the fall ofcustom Beech oven is on hand for flatbreads, prime Communism in the 1990s, one of Eastern Europe’s and boundaries, attention should be paid. Part ofcuts of the best meats and poultry in the country. most luxurious hotels reopens in early 2018. Raffles, the iconic Asian hotel group, has spared Germany’s Gekko Group, Provocateur a 58-room Billed as London’s most spectacular new hotel, The no expense in restoring the commanding Neo-Ned re-purposed the Midland Bank building in the Renaissance facade, 106 rooms (the largest in the boutique property in Charlottenburg is for the up-heart of the city, the pulse of the Brit capital’s financial Polish capital), bar and cigar lounge that was oncenetwork. The old vault which stood in for Fort Knox a magnet for the cream of Warsaw society. Raise a all-night-sleep-all-day crowd. The decor is 1920sin Goldfinger has been transformed into a schmick- vodka or three to their memory.as bar. The name? That’s the sobriquet of Sir Edwin Paris burlesque with a cutting local edge. Chef DucLutyens, the world-famous architect of the heritage LA will be awash with new hotel openings over thelandmark. The swimming pool has views of St Paul’s next few years. The apex of the flood is the Waldorf Ngo (Moriki Frankfurt and Madame Ngo Berlin)cathedral, the vast banking hall has been rejigged with Astoria in Beverly Hills, a 12-storey, Art Deco-inspirednine restaurants from Italian through Asian and English, bolthole on a long-dormant corner of Wilshire and helms the ranges of the Chinese/French restaurant.and - yes - there’s a private members club for guests. Santa Monica boulevards. The storied brand’s first outpost on the West Coast, the Golden Age of Sign on for the Provocateur Mode, a multi-sensory Soaring above Cape Town’s Victoria & Alfred Hollywood is the guiding design principle. Michelin-Waterfront, The Silo was crafted, as the name starred uber chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten in-room experience that goes well with a stiff drinksuggests, out of a 1920s grain silo that onceranked as the tallest building in sub-Saharan Africa. and low lighting. Saffire Freycinet grabbed global attention as Tasmania’s first world-class resort. The same developers - The Federal Group - are behind the MACq 01, the island state’s latest high-end hotel. As much a headlong dive into the past as a luxurious getaway, each of the 114 rooms is linked to an historic local character from bushrangers to convicts-turned- plutocrats. The spectacular waterfront location and focus on Tassie’s world-beating whiskies, gins and fresh produce make the MACq 01 one of the most exciting new hotel openings in Australia for years. Be honest. You haven’t been to New York 10 times; you’ve been to Manhattan. The 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge is an eco-luxury hideaway that runs on wind power and is the pet passion of billionaire real estate investor Barry Sternlicht. Sustainability is the core concern and over 50 per cent of the building materials were recycled or reclaimed. Sleep soundly on hemp mattresses and wash in marble rain showers. The 1 Rooftop Bar is permanently packed in summer because of its in-your-face panorama of the Manhattan skyline. 26 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

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winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELREACTIONS TO ANDRE SIMON’S BOOK ON AUSTRALIAN WINESFRENCHMAN Andre Simon’s book The wines, tasted, preferring to make no comment at all, find it difficult to pick out the Simon sections.vineyards and vignerons of Australia attracted unless it was complimentary.much interest on its publication in 1966. “It is beyond all doubt that the foreword, the Simon was, however, aware that his readers A perceptive review by journalist Pamela expected some comment on the wines, so he chapter on wines and two of the appendicesHudson appeared in a leading Australian wisely asked his friend and past presidentnewspaper under the heading “Oracle of the of the Wine and Food Society of Victoria, are directly from his pen - every phrase bearsbottle”. It immediately demanded the reader’s Victor Gibson, to compile a list of his favouriteattention. “When Mr Andre Simon speaks, wine Australian wines, excluding treasures that were the stamp of this well-loved master.” Especiallylovers all over the world listen. And with good no longer commercially available. As Gibsonreason,” she writes and then summarises his points out, it is a personal choice and other typical of Simon’s style is the appendix on themany achievements, including his four and Australian wine-lovers would, no doubt, makea half months’ visit to Australia three years care and service of wine, and that on wine inearlier, on which the book is based. She quotes It is beyond all doubtSimon tellingly that “there are in Australia a the kitchen. Here Simon, as well as providinggreat many wines from fair to fine in quality that the foreword, thewhich are characteristically Australian wines”. practical advice as relevant now as it was whenLike most of the book’s readers, she anxiously chapter on wines and two ofawaits the great man’s opinion on our wines. he wrote it over 50 years ago, is at his most“It is what Mr Simon has to say about the wines the appendices are directlythemselves that we all are interested in.” After lyrical and flowery. “A cellar is the proper placepointing out that the wines are dealt with in only from his pen - every phrase18 pages (out of 194) Hudson notes with some for a stock of bottled wine but it is out of thesurprise that “immediately it is clear that Mr bears the stamp of this well-Simon is not prepared to elaborate or elucidate question for most city dwellers who live in flatshis opening announcement”. She continues: loved master.“Nowhere does he attempt to describe his own or apartments. The bed which they must giveresponses to the wines he found in Australia, nor a different selection. The list is very familiar tois there any hint of his defining any Australian us wine bibbers of the 1960s. The prices are to each one of their bottles of wine has to be acharacteristics. The sense of let-down comes fascinating - such as $1.75 for 1960 Penfoldsas a thud…Anticipation of Simonesque wit and Grange and $1.85 for 1963 Mildara Coonawarra bin under the stairs or in a cupboard, or somewisdom on some of our more complex and Cabernet Sauvignon (the famous Peppermintdistinguished table wines is quickly dashed.” Pattie) and - costliest of all - $3.40 for Seppelt’s odd corner - whatever happens to be available.Then she asks, reasonably, “should a European Great Western Imperial Reserve Brut whichconnoisseur be expected to comment? In all Simon drank often. What one must bear in mind, however, is thatfairness, I think not”. But those who criticisedSimon for not giving his opinions on Australian Hudson’s comments are especially insightful. wine loves peace above all things! It will put upwine should not have been surprised. As this She is obviously determined not to be squashedseries of articles on his visit to Australia and by the great man. She points out, correctly, that with a cold bed or bin but will not mind a warmNew Zealand has demonstrated, he very rarely Simon did not write the whole book. She sayspraised or condemned any of the wines he that anyone familiar with his writing will not one: what wine dislikes intensely is changes from cold which contracts, to heat which expands. This is, of course, why deep cellars are best, where the temperature is practically the same in summer and winter. Wine also hates draughts as well as stuffiness, just as most of us do. Wine dislikes sunshine and any bright light which we love. This is because the ruby and gold of wine are not chemical dyes but natural colours which fade in sunlight. Obviously, even if the home found for wine cannot be as dark, cool, quiet and airy as the wine would like it to be, it can always be, and it must be, spotlessly clean. So long as corks of cork-bark are used, they are porous and perishable, liable to get musty and they will then taint the wine which will become undrinkable.” He would surely have welcomed Stelvin. 28 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018



Austria’s ownmake their MarkNATIVE RE D AN D WH I T E VA R I E T I E SHEADLINE AUSTRIA’S PUSH INTOTH E AU S TRAL I AN W I N E MA R K E T.DAN TRAUCKIIN the 1990s, Australia was the rising star in the chardonnay, merlot, shiraz, etc, the majority also makes much of their highest quality wines.wine firmament with the result that many people of Austria’s production is focused on native When in Austria, on behalf of Winestate two yearsaround the world discovered and fell in love with varieties. They also have some of the strictest ago, I tasted gruner veltliner wines going backour bright, fruit-driven wines. “Sunshine in a bottle” wine legislation and categorise their wines into to 30 years old, and they were amazingly vibrantwas the slogan at the time. Over the last two either “Klassic” or “Reserve”. The Klassic wines and lively. It is a classy, elegant variety. Equallydecades we have become much more mainstream have to be under 13 per cent alcohol and no more enjoyable as young, fresh, crisp wines, or smooth,and in some cases a bit passé. than 6g/litre of residual sugar. These wines are elegant mature wines. aimed at being in the market within 12 months Now there's a new rising star - Austria. This is of production, as they are designed for current In the reds, the main Austrian players are thethanks to the superb marketing by the Austrian consumption. They are lighter and fresher than native zweigelt, blaufrankisch and saint laurent.Wine Marketing Board led by the irrepressible and the Reserve wines, and could be considered to These varieties are lighter bodied than the classiccharismatic Willi Klinger, and the sensational wines be the equivalent of Rioja’s “Joven” style. The mainstream varieties - somewhat comparable tomade from native red and white grape varieties. Reserve wines have more than 13 per cent alcohol pinot noir in style and character. I like to think of and have to be matured longer. This makes them them as “pinot noir that has been working out at This is the second year that Winestate has bigger wines with better structure and more depth the gym”.conducted an Austrian wine judging and tasting, of flavour. They also recently introduced a three-due to last year’s inaugural tasting proving to be tier system for categorising their Sekt (sparkling) In Austria grape growing is divided into foursuch a success in terms of variety and quality of wines which will help international recognition for main areas:the wines, and also the level of consumer interest these delightful wines.in the wines. · Lower Austria (Niederosterreich) has The main white varieties are gruner veltliner, 27,100ha of vines and is divided into eight Before you check the results of this tasting, here roter veltliner, nueburger, rotgipfler, as well the regions, mainly growing whites. These includeare a few facts about wine growing in Austria. lesser known European welschriesling and muller- gruner veltliner and riesling of Wachau, Kremstal, thurgau. Of the “classic” white varieties they grow Kamptal, Wagram along with the lesser known Austria is a compact (about one-third the size smaller quantities of riesling, sauvignon blanc Thermenregion and Traisental. The one regionof Victoria), landlocked country with a population and chardonnay. Gruner veltliner is by far the here which is much more focused on reds isof 8.5 million, a smidge under the combined hero as well as being the most produced, with Carnuntum which produces excellent zweigelt andpopulation of Sydney and Melbourne. Therefore, around 36 per cent of the national wine output. It blaufrankisch such as the Wiengut Payr SpitzbergAustria’s population density is significantly higher Einzellage 2014 Blaufrankisch.than Australia’s. Despite this they have managedto shoe-horn in just over 45,000ha of vines, whichis about one-third of our 135,000ha. In a countryone-third the size of Victoria, they have one-thirdour total area under vines. Austria has been growing vines for around4000 years. Unlike most other wine producingcountries whose wine industries are focusedon the “classical” varieties such as cabernet,30 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

These varieties are lighter bodied than the classic mainstream varieties - somewhat comparable to pinot noir in style and character. · Vienna has around 600ha of vines growing within of Nuesiedlersee, a beautiful, massively wide, rain wines showing how wonderful good riesling canthe city limits of this great city. The country’s smallest fed lake (no rivers flow into it) which is in the mostregion, it specialises in gemischter satz (mixed set) parts only 2-3m to deep. It creates ideal conditions be. Hopefully some of those high-profile Austrianwhich is a traditional field blend of up to 13 varietals for the production of these magnificent wines whichthat are co-planted and co-fermented, and can can have mind-blowing levels of sweetness but yet rieslings will take part in this year’s Canberraproduce excellent wines such as the elegant Weingut are delicious and do not cloy. I have tasted ice wineChrist 2016 Gemischter Satz. from the legendary house of Karcher, with 450g/litre International Riesling Challenge.” of sugar, yet it finishes crisp enough not to swamp · Styria (Steiermark) has three regions. the palate with sweetness. In this tasting all four of In the reds there was a marked improvement inSudsteiermark (2560ha) focuses on sauvignon the dessert wines judged scored over four stars,blanc, Vulkanland Steiermark with some 1500ha with the Weingut Turk 2016 Gruner Veltliner Eiswein consistency from last year. Blaufrankisch againand Weststeiermark (Schilscherland) with around from Kremstal topping the class with five stars.550ha, mainly planted to the native variety blauer was the main variety with two of the 12 entrieswildbacher, which produces exceptional rosé wines Turning to the main varieties in the judgingcalled schilcher wein. and starting with their hero, gruner veltliner, the achieving five stars. It is a variety with a great consistency of quality was amply demonstrated · Burgenland has four regions. Leithaberg with by the fact that 32 out of the 42 wines entered future in Australia as the younger generation ofsome 3000ha, Mittelburgenland with around 2000ha (just over three-quarters) were recommended byand focusing on blaufrankisch, and the small the judges, including six scoring five stars. That wine drinkers lean more towards lighter and moreEisenberg region with just over 500ha. The largest was a sensational result, which also helped toand best known is Nuesiedlersee (6700ha), which demonstrate the variety’s propensity to age well, elegant wines. The first Australian blaufrankischis home to one of the great highlights of Austrian with all three of the 2013/2014 wines enteredwines - divine dessert wines under the Pradikatswein achieving five stars. producer is Adelaide Hills’ Hahndorf Hill Winery.classification. These are truly awesome, ranging insweetness from the mildly sweet spatlese, through The riesling class, while slightly smaller with 24 The other main native reds, zweigelt and sanktauslese, beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese, entries, was very strong with 20 of the wines beingto the insanely sweet eiswein (ice wine). These recommended and three achieving five stars. (saint) laurent, were again an improvement on lastamazing wines come mainly from around the shores As Wolf Blass said at the Winestate subscribers tasting: “This is a very strong class, with the best year, with less of the over-extracted/over-worked wines in the line up, and more “natural” expressions of the variety. These varieties probably have a way to go before achieving wider acceptance in the Australian wine drinking community. I believe that blaufrankisch is well on its way to achieving acceptance and eventually becoming a recognised emerging variety in Australia. So when you are looking for something a bit different from your usual tipple, give Austrian wines a go. You will be pleasantly surprised not only by the lively, interesting flavours, but also by their superb quality. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 31

LATE SHOW DELIVERS A TOP PERFORMANCE32 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

Virnetpao2g0er1t 7CHARLES GENTFOR winegrowers in the southern half of the of the late heat, the overall quality predictionscontinent, 2017 was the year that the elastic for red wines are very healthy, while semillonsnapped back. The previous eight or so yields were largely unaffected. Mudgee, too,vintages, like a rolling set of king tides, had had some very hot weather to contend with, butcome in earlier every year. In early 2017 this the quality of the vintage, especially among theseemingly inexorable march was halted (for reds, is being widely acclaimed. Orange rode athe time being), with many grape varieties roller-coaster season of recurrent rain and heat,ripening several weeks later than they had in which brought mildew yet still managed to finish2016. Thanks to extensive spring rains and late. Some very good wines are anticipateda general absence of summer heat spikes in from a mixed bag. In Canberra, a cool and wetthe southern latitudes, yields were up in many opening brought an agonisingly slow start toof the major regions, boosting the national the season, and eventually a much later finish.crush significantly. A slower ripening season In between came some high heat, relieved byalso brought more structured and ordered a dry, cool autumn. The result was excellentpicking and processing in most regions. Happy fruit flavours in riesling, elegant reds and somewinemakers - and grapegrowers - were not hard very optimistic winemakers. Tumbarumba andto find. Up in Queensland, conditions were not Hilltops both had soaking winter rains, butso benign. Despite promising fundamentals in Tumbarumba’s summer was milder, creatingthe Granite Belt vineyards, a summer heatwave good natural acidity, with chardonnay a standoutattacked yield and baume, before sustained and pinot very promising. In Hilltops warmerheavy rains brought both mould and mildew. conditions favoured low-yielding, flavoursomeWhile there will be some good individual wines, cabernet, and good chardonnay and riesling.it was a trying season. In the Hunter, which also The Riverina missed the worst of the heat andenjoyed soaking spring rains, the challenges is reporting well-above average quality in bothcame from savage summer temperatures - a run reds and whites. There was much rejoicing inof 10 days over 35C in January was followed by Victoria, with exceptional vintages for both thethree days over 44 in February. Remarkably, for Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula. Initiallythose whose picking dodged the worst effects bleak conditions and berry setting problems Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 33

Initially bleak conditions andberry setting problems held backyields, but ripening conditions wereideal, with vintage two to three weekslater than in ’16. Great things areanticipated across all varieties.held back yields, but ripening conditions were quality is expected from red and white table quality fruit in the major red varieties and livelyideal, with vintage two to three weeks later than wines, and the sparklers that make up a third flavours in verdelho, fiano and vermentino. Thein ‘16. Great things are anticipated across all of the island’s production. South Australia’s Coonwarra’s growing season, extended by thevarieties. Geelong’s vintage was cooler and Barossa, Eden and Clare valleys all had heavy cool conditions, allowed the region’s signaturetrickier, but there will be more very good pinot winter and spring rains, and in the absence of grape, cabernet sauvignon, to produce someand chardonnay. Macedon and Bendigo had extreme heat, yields were very high, implying truly excellent wines. Wrattonbully, Padthawaygood spring rains and near perfect if coolish some lighter flavours. The Barossa vintage was and the other regions of the Limestone Coastconditions, and the vintage is being touted four weeks later than its last. In Clare, where all followed suit. In the Riverland, extendedas the best for more than 15 years. While it the difference was a fortnight, Tim Adams and sometimes heavy falls of rain made lifewas a little drier in Heathcote, harvest ran to a described the vintage as among the top five of difficult, and combined with cool temperaturessimilarly slower schedule, and the shiraz took his 40 years of winemaking. Riesling and shiraz to make the season slow ripening and latefull advantage, with full flavour achieved at a are expected to be the chief beneficiaries. finishing. Yields were up slightly and cabernetlower baume. The King and Alpine valleys had Similarly high expectations are held for shiraz is fancied as the best of the varietal bunch. Fora late but long season, leading to excellence in and chardonnay in the Adelaide Hills in the wake once, much of Western Australia stuck to thechardonnay and shiraz as well as in the region’s of a cool season and an Indian summer that saw national trends. A wet start in Margaret Riverspecialty Italian varieties. An exception to the vintage end more than a month later than the evolved into a late, cool growing season. Arule was Glenrowan, where the vintage was last. The rainfall and low temperatures of spring rainy and anxiety-inducing March eventuallyhottish, short and reminiscent of last year’s, but and early summer in McLaren Vale continued gave way to drier weather, and the final resultthe fruit quality was high, while in Rutherglen into January before morphing into cool nights promises classic, elegant cabernet sauvignonyields were up thanks to the season’s early and warm days during March and April. The and aromatic chardonnay from most wineries.soaking rains, and the shiraz and cabernet made slow ripening is expected to lead to bright and Things ran very late in Great Southern, wheregood. Across all three of Tasmania’s regions, vibrant wines, particularly in later ripeners such wet vineyards due to early heavy rain made itthe growing season started cool and wet and as grenache and cabernet. An extended cool necessary for yields to be kept under controlstayed very mild throughout the summer, before start to the Southern Fleurieu’s growing season by repeated bunch thinning. A long, dry finishfinally building to a perfect, warm autumn finish. did not prevent very high quality in both reds to the season saw many makers touting well-Conor Van Der Reest at Moorilla Estate rated and whites. In Langhorne Creek, growers were flavoured whites and reds, with pinot noir andthe vintage as “one of the greats”, citing depth forced to work around flooding in late December. riesling set to soar. Despite a conventionalof fruit flavour and brilliant acidity. Exceptional Otherwise, the late cool season led to high January, February was cool in Pemberton and34 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

Manjimup, and then the early rains returned tolinger in March, bringing disease problems thatcaused significant fruit loss. The best wines willbe chardonnay and pinot noir. In Geographe, theseason was again cool and tardy, with harvestfinishing three weeks later than usual, but infine conditions. Winemakers were thrilled withthe acidity in their whites and the chardonnay isexpected to shine. Floods following two massivedownpours associated with cyclones causedmajor loss to crops in the Swan Valley. However,the unaffected grenache, shiraz and verdelhoare expected to produce solid results. 2017 wasa growth year in nearly every way for Australianwine, with the crush up by five per cent to 1.93million tonnes and the average purchase priceper tonne of grapes up by seven per cent.Teamed with the US’s resumption of its formerstatus as our second-largest export market andthe sustained growth in the Chinese market forour wine (up by 42 per cent in the past year),there is much to celebrate. Particularly welcomenews is that much of the growth in sales value isat the higher end of the bottled wine market. Agraphic from official vintage reports comparedthe crush to the volume held by more than 500Olympic-size swimming pools. Let’s hope theindustry can remember its swimming lessons. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 35

36 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

GETTING BACK Nature toSALLY EASTON MW“NATURAL wine” is a term you’ll likely have come of “natural” wine beginning to fade - does that geographical indication of Orange, New Southacross on your vinous travels. There’s a bit of mean all other wine is “unnatural” (of course not)? Wales. I think “amber” might be the preferreda buzz at both ends of the antipodes - it is a It does rather feel that thus-far “natural” wines term, but in Europe “amber” already refers to aniche business driven by passionate importers, are slowly being re-termed “low intervention”, type of French fortified wine.independent merchants and sommeliers all of “minimal intervention” or “low addition”, “lowwhom are able to hand sell with skilled word sulphur” wines. Though, of course, none of these There appear to be few generalisations withof mouth. But there is still no definition of what terms are (yet) defined either. One might need this (re-)evolving style of winemaking. The lengthexactly “natural” wine is which leaves it in a to intervene less one year than another and of skin contact could be a few days or weeks; theconfusing place for consumers. add less sulphur one year than another. Work temperature could be controlled, or not. There in progress, as with any new trend. could be stems, or not. They could be “minimal” Making “natural” wine is a philosophy, a way or they could fined, filtered and fresh with dosesof being. RAW wine is probably the best known A slightly less wriggly, but no less niche, of sulphur. The range can be found accordingof the “natural” wine manifestations and has category is that of orange wine. And it’s not one to the individual.a charter of quality. Part of the charter states to be confused with “natural” wine, though ofthe farm must be farmed organically and/or course these two niche worlds may well collide Making white wine effectively as though itbiodynamically. But it doesn’t state certified. in a desire towards less and less addition were red wine has its origins in the country nowOrganics and biodynamics and farming systems, of sulphur dioxide and other viticultural and known as Georgia, which is located on the eastviticultural management systems, these are winemaking aids. coast of the Black Sea, separating Russia towell-defined systems, legally controlled, with the north and Turkey to the south. The ancientprotocols, documentation, certification. And loss In Europe, well in the UK at least, extended and revived techniques are associated with theof certification for failure to follow protocol. Which skin contact wine made from white grapes has use of traditional fermentation vessels - qvevri -rather sounds like it doesn’t fit with the typical been readily called orange wine since early that have been used for 8000 years. Qvevri arephilosophy of “natural”. But such certification into the new millennium in a direct reflection of amphora-like in shape, wax-lined, earthenwarewould be a great starting point for consumers, the typical colour of the resulting wine (as with vessels. When used for making white wine theysomething for them to feel familiar with. red, white and pink). But presumably such wine are buried after fermentation, containing the can’t easily be called, even colloquially, “orange wine along with the skins and any stems that Is it just me, or is a major, semantic, criticism wine” in Australia because of the protected were included. After a dose of sulphur dioxide Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 37

These wines are more about textural breadth, aged components, crystallised and dried fruits.it is sealed, usually until around six months after affected sweet wines made from chenin blanc.the harvest. They account for some 85 per cent of all the sweet wine made in the Loire valley. There is one Using qvevri is less traditional outside Georgia. commune in particular that has been getting a lotBut extended skin contact of white grape of attention in recent years. This most favoured ofvarieties during fermentation in whatever vessel communes is that of Rochefort sur Loire which is- concrete, stainless steel, old oak - extracting tucked into the triangle of the confluence of theboth tannin and more or less orange colour is river Layon with that of the Loire. This communethe key point. In Europe the modern enclave is is the location of the recently created Coteauxin north-east Italy’s Friuli. Producers such as du Layon Premier Cru Chaume (2014). ThereStanko Radikon (who died in September 2016) are just 56ha of vines in this premier cru onand Josko Gravner started moving back to the south facing schist and sandstone terraces. Thisold ways of extended skin contact some 20 appellation made history as the Loire valley’s firstyears ago. premier cru appellation. Unusually in a country classically noted for its many premier and grand In terms of palate experience, typically the crus, the Loire valley has until now been a regiontannic experience of a white wine requires some without any.readjustment. This is probably more of a featureto fathom than the colour which indicates level At the southern tip of Rochefort sur Loire isof extraction not oxidation. The pristine primary to be found the tiny outpost of the Quarts defocus won’t be there but it’s not designed to be. Chaume Grand Cru. Just 30ha of very steepThese wines are more about textural breadth, south-facing schist hillside overlooks the riveraged components, crystallised and dried fruits. Layon. Ridiculously small amounts of botrytis-As a different palate expression they have the affected sweet wines are made when vintageoption to offer a new experience, especially in conditions allow. Rules are pretty strict: just 25environments where hand-selling and story- hectolitres per hectare maximum, minimum 298telling are key. One or two have even made their grams per litre sugar in the must. Quarts deway onto supermarket shelves in the UK. Chaume made history for being the Loire valley’s first Grand Cru appellation. From orange to golden, the prized appearanceof noble rot in privileged plots of a commune in Page 36: Man harvesting in Georgia, orange wine, red grapes ofthe Loire valley led to new appellations being Georgia.created to recognise the special qualities of Left top to bottom: Qvevri pots, punching down the cap on athe place. qvevri, man punching down the cap, tools used in qvevri. Opposite page top to bottom left to right: Vineyards in Georgia, The river Layon, which flows north-west to join qvevri pots, Manavi vineyards in the snow, harvesting grapes inthe river Loire, has a series of favoured slopes Georgia and the town of Tiblisi.on both banks. It is these Coteaux du Layonappellations that are renowned for botrytis-38 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

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adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSTO the casual visitor the Caledonian Hotel is She makes it work through tough discipline at all overlooking Port Willunga beach and the bones ofnothing exceptional. It has a good dining room, levels: balance across the courses; not too much the wrecked ship that gave the restaurant its name.Bartons restaurant, with above average pub acid or sugar - although slight sweetness in a saucefood and a strong focus on high-grade steaks. brings out the fruit in the wine; no chilli; an average The truth, however, is that it’s come a very longA further clue might be the range of Scotch 300g of protein, sometimes using secondary cuts way from the days it was the local bait shop,whiskies in the front bar and the solid wine list. especially if it’s 9+ waygu. The Caledonian Hotel, especially under the ownership of Nikki and DougBut it is the wine-matched dinners that really 219 O’Connell St, North Adelaide. Open for lunch Govan, who also owns the much-lauded Victoryset the Caledonian apart from anywhere else in and dinner daily. Check caledonianhotel.com. Hotel, not far distant at Sellicks Hill. The restaurantAdelaide, possibly Australia. au/category/wine-events/ for wine dinner details; is now more boatshed-style, surrounded by big, phone (08) 8267 1375. foldaway windows that provide sensational views Food and wine matching dinners are pretty of the coastline below. In summer, a seat on thecommonplace these days, though nearly all of Since he was first named McLaren Vale Bushing balcony will be especially hard to get. The “gothem are fancy affairs, with fancy prices to go with King nearly 40 years ago, an honour he’s twice to” dishes here that have never left the menu arethem. Not so at North Adelaide’s Caledonian Hotel, repeated, winemaker Steve (Serafino) Maglieri the salt and pepper squid, quite likely caught inwhich manages to turn out an extraordinary 70 or has been one the region’s most respected the waters below, and the beer-battered fish andso food and wine matched lunches and dinners a winemakers. So when he took over the former chips - King George whiting from Kangaroo Islandyear - five courses of very adequate wine-friendly McLarens on the Lake and renamed its restaurant just over the horizon.food matched with up to a dozen or more wines, Serafino, as well as making it the headquarters foreverything in generous quantities. And not just his Serafino Wines, it was no surprise that the food Alternatively, if you didn’t go for the oysterswine - the list includes whisky and champagne matched his reputation for wine. with pickled shallot vinaigrette, you could startmatched dinners as well, just to keep things with grilled scallops with blood orange andreally interesting. They are the result of a unique It’s an extensive property centred on a large dam, red onion, followed by a main course of wildcollaboration between hotel proprietor Fiona or lake, that built an early reputation as a prestigious barramundi with grilled mushrooms on a bedNairn and her head chef Mark Johnson, neither venue for weddings, conferences and other major of Jerusalem artichoke puree and a scatteringof whom claim any great foodie credentials but functions, offering extensive accommodation on of garlic chips. The extensive and well-pricedshare a tremendous passion for the task they’ve the side. With the Maglieri family in charge, the wine list is McLaren Vale biased but, fortified byset themselves. Together they’ve visited some of restaurant also has lifted its game with chef Sarah Doug Govan’s formidable list at the Victory Hotel,the best restaurants in Australia and overseas, Contin producing dishes that are skilled and includes a strong French representation. Star ofseeking new ideas and flavours, considering generous in all senses. As well as a strong Italian Greece, 1 Esplanade, Port Willunga. Open fordishes that might have seven or eight elements influence, Contin’s menu also shows the result of lunch Wednesday-Saturday, dinner Thursday-to them and working out how they can recreate spending 18 months at Adelaide’s acclaimed Peel Saturday; phone (08) 8557 7420. perhaps two or three of those elements, using the Street restaurant, famed for its Mediterranean/best produce they can afford and still charge pub Middle Eastern style. A simple starter of hommus Top: Serafino restaurant interior.prices for, Nairn says, “something better than pub brings a decorative plate featuring Kabuli-style fried Middle: Serafino chicken.food”. The average price of the wine dinners is $88 chickpeas, pomegranate pearls and mint, while Left: Pork belly and parsnip puree from the Caledonian.- five courses, a dozen or so wines. “It’s all about slow-roasted lamb shoulder comes with smokedmaking the wine jump out of the glass,” Nairn says. eggplant puree, garlic yoghurt and dukkah. Main courses include “nomad chicken”, a wonderfully mess-looking dish with white bean cassoulet, chunks of dark morcella - a Portuguese-style black pudding, crisp chicken skin and cherry tomatoes, while a bowl of slow-braised venison shanks on a bed of pearl barley with vincotto, orange and figs is equally generous and satisfying. Serafino, Kangarilla Rd, McLaren Vale. Open for lunch Thursday-Saturday, dinner Monday-Saturday; phone (08) 8323 8911. Major renovations, which include a fully enclosed deck area and extended balcony, haven’t disguised the fact that the Star of Greece is basically a glorified tin shed perched on the edge of a cliff,40 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS AFTER his surprise move last year when he left in Kennedy Town. Unusually for a Central-ish with tortillas and to finish, churros with whitethe Mandarin Oriental to make fancy burgers location, there’s a rather elaborate courtyard chocolate ganache and churros popcorn.at Beef & Liberty, Uwe Opocensky has turned decorated with Grecian urnware. There wasthings on its head again by opening his solo a certain amount of hype surrounding 11 Form an orderly queue… 11 Westside, 1/F,venture, Uwe, in Hollywood Rd. Westside but it could well be justified given the The Hudson, 11 Davis St, Kennedy Town, Hong menu - tableside “guac”, a dizzying array of Kong; phone +852 3996 7754. Wanting to create the feeling that you’re dining tacos (never a bad idea), grilled red snapperin his home, Uwe has placed heavy emphasis Top: Food from Westside restaurant.on simple and organic ingredients, a welcoming, Middle: Chef Uwe Opocensky.relaxed atmosphere and hearty portions. Uwe Bottom: Paper Moon restaurant interior.made a name for himself as the executive chefof the Mandarin Grill and the Krug Room, andhas taken essences from the fine dining scene- somewhat pricey-but-worth-it set lunch menus(at $HK788, $A130 per head) and a six-coursedinner excluding wine pairing (at $HK1228,$A200 per head) - but something must beworking because the restaurant was immediatelybooked solid for six weeks from the soft launchin September. Uwe, G/F, 252 Hollywood Rd,Sheung Wan; phone +852 2546 8665. Jet-setting Hong Kongers may be aware ofPaper Moon, the glamorous Milan restaurantwith locations in Istanbul, Beirut and Manila.For those who perhaps aren’t able to escapeas much as they’d like, then rejoice: becausePaper Moon has opened in a scenic harbourfront location in Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui. The upscale dining destination achieves thenear-impossible feat of being a casual spot fora quick lunch or a fancier, you-could-take-your-potential-inlaws-here space for dinner. Expectsimple but classic Italian dishes, includinggrilled baby octopus, gnocchi and yellowfintuna carpaccio but those with a bigger appetitecan tuck into Milanese-style pork chop, 300-daygrain-fed Australian ribeye. Groups will alsolove the pizza offerings, with the pizza Valtellinacoming loaded with bresaola, mozzarella, rocketsalad and Parmigiano Reggiano. Paper Moon, Shop 301, 3/F, Ocean Terminal,Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui;phone +852 2156 2256. The wait for a decent Mexican joint is over.While Hong Kong can boast a few nearly-theretaquerias, 11 Westside has opened, excitingly, Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 41

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGIT’S always interesting to discover how people involves a short climb upstairs to the mezzanine braised duck burger with black cabbage slaw, pearacquire their nicknames. Following their arrival in level. The menu changes weekly as Cauquil seeks chutney, sesame and quince sauce to small platesAustralia after an adventure trip of a lifetime hiking out seasonal ingredients to spark his creative juices. such as pork belly, pickled cauliflower, balsamic,through eastern Siberia, Vincent de Soyres and We couldn’t resist the chicken liver mousse, port jelly green apple, sauteed bug and pomegranate.Thomas Cauquil were dubbed the “Frenchies” by and housemade bread and duck and chicken paté In such a plush setting a little theatre pays off. Ico-workers in Sydney. The duo thought the sobriquet en croute with foie gras and pickles as entrees to test ordered the young kingfish tartare, sea grapes,was a great name for a business and opened Cauquil’s charcuterie cred. Even though other starter watercress, tomato granita and green olive. TheFrenchies Bistro & Brewery amid the post-modern temptations included blow torched blue mackerel, granita is made by a chef at the table using liquidindustrial sleekness of The Cannery food precinct fennel and hazelnut salad and green prawn ravioli nitrogen and then wasabi leaves are used to scoopin Rosebery. Close neighbours include leading with lemongrass emulsion. Seafood is also a major up everything like san choy bow. Quy’s salute toprovidores and foodie magnets such as Kingsmore focus in the mains and it was impossible to ignore Alex & Co’s locale is his customised “parra” spiceMeats, Saporium artisan supermarket and Archie the lobster mousse served with a deeply-flavoured mix. A secret blend, of course, it is inspired byRose Distilling. With an emphasis on charcuterie bisque and gurnard with potato puree and bay leaf Parramatta’s diverse cultural population. A naturaland beer, Frenchies also punches home the sauce. Desserts are a lot more refined than your sprinkled over french fries, I enjoyed its pizzazz incraftmanship message with handmade tables made average French bistro offerings from the pannacotta parra spice roasted chicken, asparagus, carrot andfrom oaks felled by de Soyres’ father in the Loire with citrus marmalade to the confit of pineapple, parsnip. Apart from the seasoning, the chicken wasValley. That’s where the homespun aspect ends. mint almond financier and lemon sorbet. Perfect roasted to a rare succulence. Ditto the three-hourCauquil has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens for lunch, brunch and dinner for first-class food with braised lamb shoulder, provencale crust, spinach,such as Le Violon d’Ingres in Paris and El Chaflan prices that also bring a smile to your face - $15 to peas and spring beans. The coffee and pepperin Madrid. But in Sydney he is devoting his talents $20 for entrees and $20 to $30 for mains. Frenchies crusted venison, forest floor muesli, dark cherry andto bistronomy rooted in Australian tastes and terroir Bistro & Brewery, The Cannery, 61-71 Mentmore jerusalem artichoke was earmarked for a return visit.at affordable prices. De Soyres earned his brewing Ave, Rosebery; phone 0432 290 743. An edited list of five desserts covers all tastes. Wechops in Lyon and polished his skills in various asked for two spoons to devour the banana cremeSydney venues specialising in French and German- Anyone who affects surprise at Parramatta’s stellar brulee, a non-traditional melange of chocolateinspired craft beers. In 2016 he won a silver medal food scene is an agoraphobic or really needs to marquise, salted caramel and Edmonds bananaat the Sydney Royal Beer Show for his Red Biere de buy a car from the area’s famed Auto Alley. Parra’s cake, the last ingredient outing Quy as a Kiwi. AGarde Astrolabe. On our visit it was tough to choose main drag, Church St, is the fifth most patronised great wine list seals the deal for patrons to convergebetween the intriguing line-up of house-made beers, eat street in Sydney after the CBD, Surry Hills and from all over Sydney. Alex & Co, 330 Church St,including a Cologne-style kolsch, a Kiwi pilsener, Newtown, and many of the restaurants sport spiffy Parramatta; phone (02) 9194 4499.Comet American Pale Ale and an Aussie red rye ale. fit-outs. But Alex & Co spawned headlines for itsThe wine list is an exercise in discovery from bio- $2.5 million re-design, courtesy of the same interior Most Sydneysiders find it hard to place the suburbdynamic and natural wines to premium Australian experts responsible for the Watsons Bay Boutique of Banksia. But once you say it’s between the Ikeaand French bottlings. Vintage cognacs also await Hotel and The Morrison Bar and Oyster Room in complex at Tempe and Rockdale, the lightbulb ofanyone who wants to make an extravagant night the CBD. Located beneath the shiny new Meriton recognition turns on immediately. The Banksia Hotelof it. The premises are split into two levels. At the Altitude Towers, Alex & Co’s 600squ/m spread is was sold for $13.5 million in late 2015 and has haddownstairs bar you can pop in for a beer or cocktail, a triple-oriented venue - a restaurant, a cafe and a complete makeover. An even bigger drawcarda cheese or charcuterie platter. Cauquil trained a sleek bar with river views. Owner Alex Aslan, than the decor is the fact that Colin Fassnidge,under famed Paris charcutier Arnaud Nicolas, who founder of QUIC healthfoods, selected the right the so-called poet of pork and guiding light behindhas won the prestigious Meilleur d’Ouvrier de France chef for the job - Kyle Quy, ex-Nola Smokehouse in the Four in Hand and 4Fourteen, is in charge of theaward for his work. But the real culinary drawcard Barangaroo and hatted Bistro Ortolan in Leichhardt. kitchen with Leigh McDivitt, ex- 3 Weeds at Rozelle. Cocktail guru Max Greco, of Vasco Bar, has also Simply fantastic is the description for elevated pub come up with a drinks list to match Quy’s inspired grub such as suckling pig sausage roll with apple touch with Mediterranean flavours and the freshest sauce, a refined version of Irish stew and Ora King of produce. People bandy the word passion around salmon cured in Suntory’s flagship Yamazaki malt so much that it frequently loses its impact. Quy is whisky and blood orange. To keep prices down you the real deal and decided to become a chef at the order at the bar which is just the right touch for a tender age of 14. He believes that the profession suburban pub even with a star chef. Banksia Bistro, chooses you, not the other way round. A belief the Banksia Hotel, 288 Princes Highway, Banksia; that’s easy to see from the bar menu snacks such phone (02) 9567 6389. as crumbed quail eggs with garlic aioli and pulled Top: Food and drinks from Alex and Co. Left: Food from Frenchies Bistro & Brewery.42 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINTWO highly respected chefs opened own ventures Huge news hit Melbourne in late September when pub model, Green Man’s Arms owns all of its beerin Melbourne and we got an inner-city vegetarian/ renowned chef Donovan Cooke announced he was taps so you can share a jug of local craft brewsvegan pub, yep, not a parma or steak to be seen. leaving his job of executive chef at the Atlantic in such as Hawkers Pilsner, Stomping Ground Saison Crown after six years and going out on his own, and Holgate Mt Macedon Pale Ale. Also on tap Chef Joe Grbac’s first solo-business venture, opening Ryne in North Fitzroy in early October. is kombucha, so designated drivers don’t haveSaxe, opened in October at 211 Queen St. Grbac to miss out on a refreshing fermented beverage.who headed up the Press Club and was co-owner The trailblazing chef, co-opened Est Est Est in the Kombucha also finds its way on to the cocktailand executive chef of Collingwood’s Saint Crispin late ’90s and it changed the dining landscape in list in the kombucha spritz. The wine list, similarlyopened the doors of his 70-seater and is bringing Melbourne significantly with its pared-back room populated by local producers, is completely veganhis menu of contemporary Australian dishes to and classically executed dishes. He then went on and features interesting drops such as De Bortoli’sthe law and corporate precincts of the CBD. Saxe to open Ondine followed by a stint at the Hong Vinoque Yarra Valley Nebbiolo Rosé and Lobethal(short for Queen St’s namesake Queen Adelaide Kong Jockey Club before returning to Melbourne to Road Pinot Gris from the Adelaide Hills. 418 Lygonof Saxe-Meiningen) offers two-levels of city dining. join the Atlantic. Now at Ryne, Cooke is flexing his St, Carlton; phone (03) 9347 7419. The dining room upstairs brings a structured menu, creative muscles again while maintaining the strongwith dishes such as asparagus and parmesan skill and techniques that has seen him become Top left: Interior of Saxe restaurant.custard with white miso and pork scotch fillet, carrot one of the country’s most respected chefs. Cooke Top right & above: Food from Saxe restaurant.picalili and taramosalata. Downstairs, on street- has partnered with his long-time friend, colleaguelevel, the bar and dining area will be more casual, and culinary kindred spirit, Alex Law. Their 60-seatwhile retaining the quality Grbac is renowned for. restaurant features a focused menu, opening itsThink scrambled duck egg, spanner crab, roasted doors with spring entrees, spring mains, sidescauliflower and the bar snack known as Snack, and spring desserts. The choices are clear - twoCrackle, Pop (fried and popped pork crackle) that courses for $65, three for $80, and a seven-courseGrbac made popular at Saint Crispin. At the core tasting menu for $150. Guests will choose fromof both menus is seasonality, provenance and dishes, including marron with pea panna cotta andvalue. Grbac is not bound by rules except to focus scented with orange, foie gras and chicken liveron the best produce he can get his hands on. At parfait with crisp chicken skin, smoked rainbowhome he is a passionate gardener, keeps his own trout with dashi-infused daikon and horseradish,chickens and he is intent on bringing the same and Valrhona chocolate souffle with three tastesfreshness and quality that he does for his family to of raspberry. Ryne’s wine list showcases smaller,the menu at Saxe. This element of care extends to exclusive producers delivering distinctive tones ofthe dining rooms. Grbac has employed the skills flavour; a mix of international - to complement theof designer Samantha Eades who has created an cuisine - and local - to support the beauty of whatenvironment of comfort, warmth and style using Australia offers. 203-205 St Georges Rd, Fitzroylight timbers, American oak and mirrors, accented North; phone (03) 9482 3002.with regal blue, a nod to the royal namesake. Thewine program designed by Marc Esteve Matteau, Nestled in the heart of Carlton on the corner ofwhom Grbac worked with at Press Club will feature Lygon and Elgin streets, is an interesting new puba list of boutique winemakers from Europe and from hospitality veterans and well-known artistsAustralia. 211 Queen St, Melbourne; phone (03) Alison Whyte and Fred Whitlock. The point9089 6699. of difference with this new venture is the Green Man’s Arms is completely vegan and vegetarian, with an Israeli-influenced menu from head chef David Raziel. The Green Man’s Arms’ take on pub snacks includes house-made falafel made to a legendary secret Jerusalem recipe and the Yemeni lahuh bread - a pan-baked soft, fluffy tortilla-like bread made to order with a choice of falafel, tahini, pickles and parsley; fried eggplant, soft egg, Israeli salad and tahini; or green beans, mushroom argue and fresh creamed corn. Mains include a grilled vegetable salad of beets, red cabbage, onions, almonds on labne and pomegranate dressing with pita bread, and housemade cous cous with vegetable stock and roasted vegies. Patrons will be tempted by desserts such as home-made halva ice cream and fresh ricotta wrapped in crunchy knafeh pastry with pistachios, pickled grapes and syrup. In another departure from the regular Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 43

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOEL“IF nothing changes, nothing changes.” These are in Italian cuisine, cooking classes and its signature Of course French fries, Paris mash or potatothe wise words of veteran chef and restaurateur dish - Flaming Cheese Wheel Pasta - pasta tossed au gratin is offered alongside your steak. 100Philip Johnson after declaring he was moving inside a giant wheel of warm reggiano. Mclachlan St Brisbane; phone (07) 3252 8881.his stalwart CBD fringe bistro to greener pasturesafter 22 years insitu. There’s also a new concept by the team at Change is also afoot for Happy Boy, a spicy and Jocelyn’s Provisions who will be firing up the super popular Spring Hill bolthole, the brainchild The Gasworks complex located in Newstead is rotisserie to provide delicious lunches and dinners of brothers Cameron and Jordan Votan whothe place de jour, a new, leafy dining hub tucked to go alongside their signature range of baked have brought Brisbane diners authentic Sichuanbetween Fortitude Valley and the river. Haven is an goods and beautiful artisan breads. Betty’s cooking in their casual eatery housed in theall-new highrise development of luxury apartments Burgers, who originally hail from Noosa, have loading dock of the former Little Tokyo, Brisbane’swith retail arcades below, situated directly across also secured a spot so there’s a plethora of dining oldest Japanese restaurant.from the Gasometre which doubles as an outdoor options. Johnson’s Irish-born wife Mary Randlesvenue at night. Due to deliver some fabulous new opened Madame Rouge in early 2017 on the site The pair has decided to relocate from Spring Hillvenues, Haven will open in early 2018 with E’cco of the former Gordita in the Mac & Ann complex to the heart of Fortitude Valley into a significantly2.0 swinging open fresh new doors alongside some just off buzzing James Street. larger space (the new venue can seat 300) andother industry talent. Head chef Simon Palmer will one that can accommodate their brand new wok,make the move across to the new site along with “The Madame” recently received a one-hat rating imported from Hong Kong that requires triplemany of Johnson’s loyal brigade. A bright, fresh in the Good Food Guide for 2018 for it’s classic certification and three times the gas a normal wokinterior will be the backdrop for a pared back menu. bistro menu, the inspiration and foundation of which uses. It’s hard to imagine a better menu than thatNo more multiple components forming complex has been set by Johnson and his team. Randles on offer at the old site and happily for loyal fans,dishes - Johnson and Palmer plan to keep the recently introduced a three-course “Prix Fixe” menu this won’t change with the new location. The Votansmenu and plating very simple. Think a piece of fish for the time sensitive which covers all the Parisian will gradually add new dishes once the dust settles,with some walnut and red pepper dip, a slice of bistro essentials finishing you up with a delicious with inspiration coming from Xinjiang and Cantonlemon and not much else. This concept isn’t new creme brulee. It’s still very much a classic French provinces albeit with their signature, contemporaryfor Johnson who’s credo has always been to source bistro - Randles has decked the place out in flowing twist. The wine offering will also get a significantthe best ingredients and don’t mess too much with floor-to-ceiling red velvet drapes creating a moody, upgrade. Cameron owns Spokenwine, an onlinethem. Add to that the char and smokiness of coal candle-lit space with circular, leather-clad dining wine distribution business in partnership with threecooking and you have some very tasty morsels booths and a giant bar that divides the room in half. colleagues. Spokenwine will increase the offeringto look forward to. Of course the extensive cellar, significantly and there will also be a new focus onamassed over the past couple of decades and The menu follows the traditional spirits and craft beers, of which six will be on tap. Aincludes an all-star line up of old and new world layout of appetisers of oysters clipped supper menu will be offered from Thursdaylabels as well as some newer age organic and shucked to order, snails in garlic to Saturday from 9.30pm until midnight and brunchnatural wines from Australia, Italy and Johnson’s butter and some charcuterie served will be served from Wednesday to Sunday featuringnative New Zealand, will make the short trip to with artisan breads, pickles and breakfast bao’s, wok-fried eggs and fruit-infusedthe new digs. Last service at the old CBD site will housemade condiments. Entrees sago pudding. As with Happy Boy Spring Hill,be December 23, with the new venue opening it’s come next and you can expect and their second venue, Greenglass (co-owneddoors in February. 63 Skyring Tce Newstead; phone more classics like goat’s cheese by the brothers and two of the Spokenwine crew),(07) 3831 8344. soufflé, pan fried quail, seared the new venue will take minimalist decor to a new scallops in their half shell and duck level. Concrete walls remain unadorned and a Also opening in Haven is Salt Meat Cheese, a liver parfait with sauternes jelly and vast, tree-lined wooden deck out the front will serveSydney-based, family-run company that specialises toasted brioche. diners and drinkers well in the long hot months of the Brisbane summer. 1 East St, Fortitude Valley; There’s a grill section with a neat phone 0413 246 890. little collection of steak which you can combine with your choice of Top: Profiteroles tonka bean and chestnut ice cream, hot bearnaise, green peppercorn, chocolate sauce from Madame Rouge Bar+Bistro. mushroom or café de Paris butter. Left: Ginger cream, brown sugar meringue, pumpkin, quince sorbet from e’cco Bistro.44 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

Npeartfuercatl.lyOur motto ‘naturally perfect’ reflects our missionto make each of our wines a true expression ofthe time and place of which it comes. Our ClareValley Big Fine Girl Riesling is no exception...www.jeanneretwines.com

winewordsMARNIE ROBERTSW I N E M A K E R - C L AY M O R E W I N E SSKYE MURTAGH Tell us a bit about your professional wine journey. Starting in large wineries helped me to learn the problem-solving logistics that are crucial to an effective and responsible winemaking career. My techniques and winemaking styles continue to develop as I stumble along. I was offered a role at Kirrihill Wines in the Clare in 2008 and haven’t looked back since. It’s such a beautiful region and a winemaking paradise for those of us here. I love the distinct characters of the countless varieties available and the collective camaraderie of the region as a whole. I’ve been working with Claymore since they were processing at Kirrihill from 2008 during my time on the winemaking team. I took on a full-time role as winemaker and vineyard manager at the beginning of 2016. The business has grown in leaps and bounds over the past 10 years. To be a part of that and now marking my third vintage with Claymore is incredibly special.A LOVE of the land runs in Marnie Roberts’ blood When did things “get real” for you as a There’s a playful edge to the Claymore Winesbut winemaking is a path she’s forged on her winemaker? brand, with a range set around music andown, successfully turning a passion into a serious another for fans of traditional football. Howtalent. Growing up in Mildura on her family’s citrus, After a few years of travelling, I took a position important do you think it is for consumers todried fruit and wine grape property, the wine game at Haselgrove Wines (in McLaren Vale) and find a relatable connection with a brand as wellmay have been in full swing somewhere on the it was there I decided to get serious with a as a love for what’s in the bottle?periphery of her life, but it wasn’t until she backed winemaking career.up a few vintages at Mildura’s big Buronga Hill You have to make a connection. That is imperative.production facility with an internship at Buena Vista Who was an early mentor in the game? Otherwise, how do you get the consumer to choosein the Las Canerous sub-region of the Napa Valley I’m lucky enough to have worked with, and your wine out of thousands of other labels? Wethat a plan to make a career out of winemaking make sure we treat our consumers as a part of ourstarted to take shape. 2018 will see Marnie to be guided by, many strong women and men story. Getting them to love our wines completescelebrate her second anniversary as winemaker as winemakers, viticulturists and owners in the our story. The vino has to be outstanding. Every.and vineyard manager of Clare Valley’s Claymore industry. I’m constantly learning from those around Single. Time.Wines, although her working relationship with the me. There’s no doubt, in my early years, though,company spans close to a decade. Donna Stephens was a key figure in shaping my What’s your pick for good drinking today from path through the industry. Claymore’s line-up? At the moment we are just releasing our 2017 Watervale rieslings, so I’d have to pretty much say any of those! 2017 was a pearler of a year for the Clare. A slow and cool ripening period has helped to produce wines with a depth of flavour I haven’t seen for years. And to cellar? Our Signature Series Shiraz is built to last. Three years in oak, six months in bottle. And it still has the legs to see out the 20-year game!46 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

winewordsLet’s see some regional love. What’s your And the biggest challenges? How have your own wine tastes changed overtop spot in the Clare Valley for the ultimate For the physical size of Clare, the wine industry the years and what’s your favourite varietal?combination of a good local tipple and smashinggood meal? is relatively small, and compared to some of our I think I look more for fruit-driven and textural neighbouring regions, is somewhat limited by the styles. Balance and elegance are a key part Seed Winehouse and Kitchen. Easy. There are small batch level of production. of my winemaking so that’s always my ultimatesome great venues right now in Clare but Candace goal. My favourite variety? Don’t make me pickand Guy are on the money. Regional champions What product in the Claymore Wines range are a favourite child!for the Clare. you most excited about? Do you collect wines?In terms of the South Australian wine industry’s Right now we have just released Claymore’s I don’t know what happens but my husband thinksregional offering, where do you see Clare first ever alternative varieties: the 2016 BlackbirdValley’s place alongside your near neighbours? Sangiovese and The Mis-Education of Carissa I’m a wine magnet. We have boxes of wine filling Major, a 2016 tempranillo. A very exciting duo in up one room and they are now creeping down the Clare Valley is an innovative and exciting region. an already strong line-up. These are cellar door hall. I seem to collect from my friends or people IWe are a little bit smaller so don’t necessarily only wines but well worth a visit. know. At the moment it appears to be about blends,see as much press, but wow! There are some so a good GSM is a given.spectacular and exciting new wine styles, varieties How do you measure your own success?and producers coming out of the region. Try my wines and ask for more! Every time a new Finally, what’s your tip for a top food and wine match over the festive season?Where do you think the biggest opportunities wine is released I get a little nervous before thelie for the region? customer feedback. Well, I do love bacon! It’s no secret. So my top food match is a crisp white like a vermentino with Riesling is definitely our champion. The wines bacon-wrapped asparagus and a citrus crumbhave this amazing central line of structure and on top. Or anything with champagne. It is theelegance in Clare wines and at the same time there festive season! is this great opportunity for Clare to showcase arange of alternative varieties and styles. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 47

The Australia Israel Chamber of Commerce South Australia is delighted to announce our upcoming Trade Mission to Israel in 2018 This Trade Mission comes after the success of our June 2017 Trade Mission to Israel on Agriculture, Water, Food and Wine Production. The mission is designed for anyone interested in the Agritech sector. Contact our Executive Director Rilka Warbanoff on 0411 113 749 or at [email protected] for expressions of interest or for any further details. Join us for this truly one-of-a-kind experience! Australia-Israel Chamber of Commerce (SA/NT) Inc. A: 239 Magill Road, Maylands 5069 P: 0411 113 749 E: [email protected] W: www.aicc.org.au

Special Awards Feature 2017Featuring the winners and placegettersfor each varietal category tastedthroughout the year. Plus profiles of theAustralian and New Zealand winemakerand wine company of the year.Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018 W I N E S TAT E 49

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S 2 0 1 7THE JUDGINGBEST OF THE BESTJUDGES Dave Matthews Peter Simic Adam ClayWINESTATE Magazine’s Wine of the Year Awards For the category winners, as always, there were amazing success rate with this varietal along withis the culmination of the past 12 months of judging some surprises. The biggest of them all was the many others.wines. Here the best four-and-a-half and five-star- Orora Glass Sauvignon Blanc of the Year won Hamburg Süd Cabernet Sauvignon of the Yearrated wines are brought back for what amounts by Aussie wine Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills 2017 went to the highly consistent Wolf Blass Black Labelto a Trophy taste-off to decide the best Top Five Sauvignon Blanc. A perennial finalist across a Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Malbec. Althoughfinalists across 15 categories, plus a Best Value number of categories, this is an amazing result a blend, it qualifies as being predominantlyaward category. Then the winning wine judged for the company, prising the trophy away from the cabernet. It is a credit to Treasury wines that itblind from each group is brought back and re- Kiwis who normally have a lock on this category. keeps its brands distinctive from each other in itsjudged to select the best wine from New Zealand This is akin to the Aussies beating the All Blacks in winemaking procedures.and the best wine from Australia, and ultimately Dunedin, something that never happens! A big favourite is our Pulpit Cellars Shiraz/Syrahthe Winestate Wine of the Year. It is a laborious but The winner of the Italian Chamber of Commerce of the Year. Of course this was also showcasedmost enjoyable process with over 400 elite wines Pinot Gris/Grigio Wine of the Year went to the earlier with our World’s Greatest Shiraz Challengejudged over two days. Brancott Estate Letter Series F Marlbourgh 2016 where we sourced icons and imports. Not all theseThis year our expert panel included former Senior from New Zealand. wines were available and re-judged, but bothPenfolds’ winemaker, Adam Clay; Classic Oak’s The Gantleys of Queenstown Sparkling Wine of results are worthy in themselves. The winner hereDavid Matthews, who was former chief winemaker the Year went to the aforementioned Deutz Cuvee was the Shingleback Red Knot Classified McLarenat Rosemount, Boar’s Rock and Group Winemaker Blanc de Blancs 2013, with its sister wine, the 2014, Vale Shiraz 2016. This is not only a great wine butfor Treasury Wine Estates, and with usual chairman also making the Top Five in category. also offers great value. It was also our Runner-UpStephen John in the US at the time, I took over the For the Adelaide Convention Centre Riesling Wine of the Year.role as acting chair. I am pleased to report that Wine of the Year, the Millon Estate Eden Valley The Wine Assist Sweet Wine of the Year wasthe panel gelled very well and while we had our The Roots 26 Riesling 2014 stood out showing again a heated competition between the best fromfavourites, the Top Five finalists of each category fell again how superb this varietal can be as an ageing Australia and New Zealand and usually involvesinto place easily with little disagreement. In particular proposition. intense but balanced varietal flavours. This timethe Wine of the Year was a unanimous decision. SMEG Alternative Wine of the Year went to the the winner was the Pegasus Bay Encore NobleHere we were looking for a wine that stood out from Nepenthe select Adelaide Hills Gruner Veltliner Riesling 2016 from New Zealand.its peer group. All winners were of an exceptionally 2016. This is a variety that has considerable appeal Finally, the DW Fox Tucker Lawyers Fortifiedhigh standard so quality was not an issue. We found and is one to watch for the future. Wine of the Year was taken by the Gralyn Artizanour winner in the chardonnay line-up. Just as the pinot gris/grigio category seems to be Rare Margaret River Muscat. Who would haveContinuing the major awards theme, the Winestate a lock for the Kiwis, semillon is the same for Aussie thought this luscious beauty would come from theWine Company of the Year for Australia and wineries. Once again this proved to be the case Margaret River.New Zealand was awarded on the basis of the with Saddler’s Creek Classic Hunter Valley Semillon For our special Best Value Wine of the Year,highest scores achieved across the top 10 different 2005 winning the Luigi Bormioli Semillon of the sponsored by Aldi, we were pleased to announcewines judged throughout the year. To allow an Year award. Perennial semillon finalist and previous the Penfolds Autumn Eden Valley Riesling 2016even playing field the big players were split into multiple winner, Coolangatta Estate, featured again as the winner. At $13.40 this offered the bestdifferent sub-companies e.g. Treasury competed with three Top Five awards. combination of flavour, balance and price!as Saltram, Wolf Blass and Penfolds for example, Kalleske Wines, a strong promoter of organic We congratulate the finalists and winners andand Villa Maria competed as Villa Maria, Vidal and culture, won the Singapore Airlines Alternative all those who entered their premium wines forEsk Valley. For the Winemaker of the Year (from Red Varieties award with its Kalleske Buckboard another shot at the title. All these wines will beboth countries) the top scores across five different Barossa Durif 2016. This is a blockbuster varietal shown separately in various summary tastings inwines were taken to allow for smaller wineries to that does well in the warmer regions or in warmer this issue. We can thoroughly recommend thesecompete for this prestigious Busby Trophy award. vintages. to you as examples of the best wines that you canFor only the second time, the Winestate Wine of the The pinot noir category is an on-going battle find anywhere in the world.Year was awarded to a chardonnay; the McGuigan between Kiwi and Aussie examples and each has its Cheers,Shortlist Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 after it advantages. This year the Vintec Pinot Noir of thewon the Classic Oak Chardonnay of the Year. A Year award was won by the cool-climate Merricks Peter Simicvery worthy winner, this wine offers pristine fruit at Estate Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016. Editor/Publisherits full potential combined with the winemaker’s art, The Harbour Bottling Merlot of the Year seems toproducing a many layered wine that chardonnay be a Kiwi stronghold with better clones put forward *All technical details for the Wine of the Year Specialcan produce at its finest. The New Zealand Wine of as an answer. This year was no exception, with Feature are supplied directly from each winery.the Year was won by a fantastic sparkling wine, the the Villa Maria Gimblett Gravels Reserve Hawkesvery worthy Deutz Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2013. Bay Merlot taking the gong. This company has an50 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018


Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2018

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