Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2012

SPECIAL EDITION 2012 WINESTATE VOL 35 ISSUE 7 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS RIESLING QUEENSLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO WINE OF SARACEN’S THE YEARS P E C I A L E D I T I O N 2 0 1 2 STAND-OUT SHIRAZ RIESLING Rising OUR TOP DROP 56-Page special feature the best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from australia & new zealand SPORTING CHANCES Tassie trio chase a different kind of famePRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Special Edition 2012 281 Vol 35 Issue 7 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NEW RELEASES NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 plus Sauvignon Blanc & Blends Riesling Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio Queensland New Releases Top 40 Best Wine Buys Under $20





4-6JUNE2013BEIJING LEADING EXHIBITION AND CONFERENCE THE POTENTIAL FOR WINE IN CHINA IS HUGE.To market Australia and New Zealand BOOK YOUR STAND SPACE as countries of origin with serious NOW AND GET A FOOTHOLD quality wines, contact: IN THE LATEST ‘NEW WORLD’ Peter Jackson WINE TREND. Winestate Publishing Tel.: +61 (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected]

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NO.252 SPECIAL EDITION 2012Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] ADELAIDE HILLS | SAManaging Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] 2012Sub-editor Michael Bates World ’sAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] GreatestMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Shiraz &Tasting Coordinator Stephen Dean E-mail: [email protected] DAI Rubicon SyrahWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] ChallengeCONTRIBUTORS 2ndNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley PlaceSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins 2009Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn Sydney InternationalQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel Wine CompetitionNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MW Winner BLUE-GOLD &National Travel Winsor Dobbin TOP 100 WINESUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW 2009ASIA Denis Gaston Royal Adelaide WineADVERTISING SALES Show GOLDAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate Publications • sparkling cuvee • sauvignon blanc •Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] • pinot grigio • chardonnay •Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Australia & Victoria • shiraz • cabernet sauvignon •Winestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277 • sangiovese • sangiovese rosé •E-mail: [email protected] South Wales DISTRIBUTED BY FESTIVAL CITY WINESAngelica Naranjo - Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2012 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsSPECIAL EDITION 2012 30 26FEATURES R E G U L A R S WINE OF26 Sporting chances 12 Briefs SPECIAL FEATURENestled in northern Tasmania’s Tamar 18 European Report THE YEARValley, a trio of young sportsmen- with Sally Easton MW starts page 35turned-winemakers are turning heads. Wine Tutor with Clive HartleyWinsor Dobbin writes that former 20 This year we sampled some exceptional Wine Travel with Elisabeth King wines in our annual contest. The judgingEuropean-based cyclist Michael 22 panel of Louisa Rose, Phil Reedman MW and led by chairman Stephen John, hadWilson has made a major success of 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel the difficult or enviable task, dependinghis Velo label, while down the road at 94 Grapevine on which way you look at it, of retastingLegana Joe Holyman has traded in 100 Winewords all of the year’s 4½ and five-star wineshis wicket-keeping gloves to develop and coming up with category winners in 12 sections. This year we reverted to theStoney Rise. A little further afield is 1 03 What’s it Worth? previous 12 categories after shelving theformer semi-pro footballer Vaughn Wine Investment & Collecting alternative red and white varietals classes.Dell’s Sinapius vineyard. 104 Subscription Form Aftertaste Once again, it was an exceptional job by 1 35 the judges to agree on an overall Wine of the Year – Margaret River’s Saracen30 Riesling rising 1 54 Estate’s stand-out shiraz. This was Clare Valley vignerons are positioning followed by a very close runner-up in the form of Hungerford Hill Chardonnay 2009.themselves to be at the forefront of a WINE TAST I N G Sriesling revival, writes Jeni Port.Since its glory days of the 1980s and 110 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends’90s, riesling has languished, but 118 Queenslanda group of Clare Valley growers is 120 Rieslinglooking long-term and they like whatthey see in riesling’s future. 124 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio 127 New Releases and Top 40 Apart from revealing our major winners, Best Buys under $20. runners-up, class winners and finalists, we have also announced the major awards for Australian and New Zealand Wine Companies and Winemakers of the Year. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 252 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Special Edition 2012 Cover photograph Orange Lane Studios.

this wine goes well withyour feet up in the hot sun,birdsong on a light breeze,and the promise of blue codfor dinner. Or just drink it now and imagine the rest.www.spyvalleywine.co.nz

Lady Chardonnay only available at cellar door +61 417 055 651www.dangelowines.com.au

editorialWELCOME TO THE AUSTRALASIAN WINESTATE WINEOF THE YEAR ISSUE or, should I say, wines of the year, as wereport on the top five winning wines from each of 12 categories,as selected by our prestigious panel of trophy judges - chairmanStephen John, national show judge Louisa Rose and Master of WinePhil Reedman MW. After an incredible performance last year, where 50 per cent of alltrophy winners came from New Zealand, this year things returned to‘normal’, when four of the 12 categories were won by Kiwi wines andeight by Australian wineries. Over the 16 years of this competition itis amazing how often this ratio seems to be par for the course. In general, New Zealand wines dominate the sauvignon blanc,pinot gris/grigio, pinot noir and merlot categories, with sweet whites,sparkling and chardonnay up for grabs, going to either country.This year we saw the trend continue, with the first four categoriesmentioned ‘going across the ditch’, as the Kiwis like to say, andthe others staying in Australia. From a line-up of 400 wines, we saw some of the best winesavailable anywhere in the world (as we note when these same wineswin trophies in other international competitions against all-comers).What makes this tasting special is that a number of these don’t get to the world stage, yet are rated blindhigher than other ‘world beaters’. Predictably, this year we saw the best sauvignon blanc come from Marlborough, semillon from the Hunter,pinot noir from Central Otago, merlot from Hawke’s Bay, fortified from North East Victoria, riesling fromEden Valley and cabernet sauvignon from Coonawarra, which shows that our judging panel is on trackand that winemakers from these regions (and terroir) are continuing to deliver. What did create a lot of interest was the sparkling from the Yarra Valley, the pinot gris from Waipara (OK,it’s New Zealand, but not Marlborough or Hawke’s Bay), chardonnay from the cold slopes of Tumbarumba,and finally from the toughest category of all, a shiraz from Margaret River. Ultimately, the judges returnedwith a sample of each category winner to decide on the shiraz as Wine of the Year and the chardonnay asa worthy runner-up. For our Wine Company of the Year for Australia and New Zealand the results fell into place easily, witha calculation of points awarded to wines scoring throughout the year added up to give the highest total.However, to create a level playing field for the smaller producers the big companies were divided intotheir brand entities (so Treasury, for example, had Wolf Blass, Penfolds, Saltram, Coldstream Hills etctreated as separate entities). A phenomenal performance by one boutique producer across a number ofhighly performing varietals saw it cross the line as Australian Wine Company of the Year and also produceWinemaker of the Year. For New Zealand it was more predicable, with a multiple award winner returning tothe top and Winemaker of the Year coming from its major competitor. For full results go to the section starting on page 35 and all will be revealed. My thanks to all the judges who rated these wines throughout the year and the trophy panel who gaveus these final results. And, of course, to all the wineries and their winemakers who submitted their wines,knowing that we have the toughest competition around. If you get an award with Winestate you have truly earned it!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsMCLAREN VALE REGION CHINA THELEADERS REWARDED WINE MOVIECORRINA Wright, Oliver’s Taranga and Marc Allgrove, Chapel AN AUSTRALIAN documentaryHill represented the McLaren Vale region amongst a strong line- looking at the rise and rise ofup of successful applicants who were recognised and rewarded China as a powerhouse onfor their commitment to leadership at the presentation of the the international wine scene2012-13 Industry Leaders Fund Inc. and its growing fixation with Bordeaux is set for a summer Corrina Wright, Director and Winemaker at family wine brand release. Red ObsessionOliver’s Taranga was extremely delighted to have received was filmed in Bordeaux andthe grant for $14,000 which sends her to Harvard Business China last year and featuresSchool. “I never in my wildest dreams ever thought I would interviews with commentators,attend Harvard Business School, and this award has allowed analysts, writers and some ofme to realise that dream. I would highly recommend others to the leading wine players onapply in the next round.” said Corrina. the two continents, including those behind the new winemaking project by Domaines Barons “I am proud to represent McLaren Vale with both the de Rothschild - owners of Chateau Lafite - in Shandong Province.marketing of my family wine brand, as well as from an industry Its first wines are due for release in 2016.leadership level. The more McLaren Vale ambassadors wehave contributing to the industry discussion and marketing The three Aussies behind Red Obsession are Lion Rock Filmsour region, the better!” producer Warwick Ross, scriptwriter David Roach and Langton’s wine auctioneer Andrew Caillard MW (pictured). Warwick was involved in Marc Allgrove, CEO, Chapel Hill McLaren Vale received a the highly successful Aussie movies, Young Einstein and Recklessgrant towards the highly regarded Company Directors course Kelly, and is also a vigneron, a producer of chardonnay and pinot noirat the Australian Institute of Company Directors. Marc is deeply on the Mornington Peninsula under the Portsea Estate Wines label.committed to the development of South Australia and McLarenVale. “Part of my commitment is to ensure that I contribute to SISTERS UNITED BY ADVERSITYthe evolution of South Australia and McLaren Vale whenever theopportunities to do so arise. Applying for the Industry Leaders ONE of Australia’s leading shiraz producers, Jasper Hill, has decidedFund was an excellent opportunity to accelerate my learning not to release two of its biggest red wine stars – Georgia’s Paddockand to further develop my skills as a Company Director which and Emily’s Paddock - from the 2011 vintage. Wet conditions atwill provide me with improved qualifications to contribute to the vintage in the Heathcote region led to unripened fruit often being leftdirection of McLaren Vale and South Australia.” on the vine, and Jasper Hill founder and winemaker Ron Laughton says overall fruit concentration just wasn’t up to the usual Paddocks The South Australia’s Industry Leaders Fund offers grants of upto $50,000 for aspiring leaders. Applications for grants close inMay 2013. www.industryleaders.com.au.12 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

briefsstandard. Instead, Ron has blended the two parcels of Emily and PINOT’S STAR ATTRACTIONSGeorgia fruit together. He calls the one-off wine The Sisters. MORNINGTON Peninsula’s upcoming International Pinot Noir The decision to release only one blended wine, not two wines, Celebration has attracted some of the biggest names in the pinotwas tough, especially in a year in which Jasper Hill celebrated its business from Burgundy to California and Central Otago and, of course,30-year milestone. “It was our 30th vintage from hell; what a year Australia. Guest speakers at the 2013 Celebration on the weekend ofto celebrate!” says Ron. February 8 and 9 include Burgundy producer Etienne Grivot (Domaine Grivot) and from California the pinot pioneering Josh Jenson (Calera However, celebrations are still in order. Daughter Georgia has Vineyard) and Ted Lemon (Littorai). Leading the panel and tastingjust released a small booklet, The First 30 Vintages, detailing discussions will be British author and pinot expert, Jasper Morris MW.the journey for her parents from buying the vineyard on theoutskirts of the Heathcote township in 1976 through to their The two-day celebration is open to the public and includes tastings,partnership with noted Rhone Valley biodynamic winemaker lunches and dinners at local wineries. The cost per person for theMichel Chapoutier in 1998 and the arrival of daughter Emily to workwith her father in the winery in 2001. A free Jasper Hill smartphone app all-inclusive weekend, to bewith tasting notes for every wine produced has also been released. held at RACV Cape Schanck is $990, with an optional event onMITCHELTON’S BIG FUTURE Sunday, February 10, featuring an informal tasting, masterclassMITCHELTON Wines is now officially back in private hands and lunch for $120 a head.following a 12-month settlement period between Lion Nathan andthe new owner, Victorian businessman, Gerry Ryan. The past 12 For tickets contact themonths have been busy for Central Victorian winery, with plans Mornington Peninsulawell advanced for a new-look enterprise, including revamped bottle Vignerons Associationlabels and a redevelopment of the cellar door and winery restaurant on www.mpva.com.au,incorporating a new conference centre. Nature and cycle paths phone (03) 5989 2377.close to the nearby Goulburn River are planned, while the winery’slandmark ‘witch’s hat’ tower is destined to be transformed intoa sunset wine bar. However, the centrepiece will be a 60-roomboutique hotel due to open at the end of 2013, just in time for thewinery’s 40th anniversary celebrations. Winemaker Travis Clydesdale, who arrived in time for the 2011vintage, remains at the helm and will continue to make a corewine portfolio of riesling, chardonnay, shiraz, cabernet sauvignonand Rhone red and white blends. Gerry Ryan has enlisted hisson, Andrew, to oversee the new Mitchelton. wine-ark 13 FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E

briefsRETREAT TO AN ISLAND NEW REGION DARES TO DABBLERECENTLY relaunched Adventure Bay Retreat on Bruny Island, AUSTRALIA’S newest wine region - New England in northernTasmania, offers the perfect opportunity to combine fine Tasmanian New South Wales - is home to producers who are prepared towine and food with a country island getaway surrounded by experiment, such as Topper’s Mountain. While the word uniquewildlife. Adventure Bay Retreat comprises two styles of boutique is overused, the new-release pairing of the Topper’s Mountainaccommodation: a three-bedroom lodge that accommodates up 2009 Red Earth Child ($38) and Topper’s Mountain 2011 Barrelto eight people and a smaller cottage. Fermented Petit Manseng ($34) certainly offer something different. The lodge has two bedrooms featuring king-sized beds, The new ‘Red Earth Child’ is a red blend comprising 66 per centfitted with goose feather and down mattress topper plus quilt petit verdot, with the remaining third nebbiolo, barbera and tannat.and king-sized pillows, along with a third bedroom with two “Our Red Earth Child blend varies each year,” says Topper’s Mountainsets of bunks. One bedroom has an en-suite bathroom with vigneron and owner Mark Kirkby. “Depending upon the vintage thea free-standing designer stone bath beside the windows for components will change. It is essentially the best red blend from therelaxing while watching the busy wildlife outside. An outside vineyard each year and constitutes less than 1000 bottles.”deck features a barbecue and the retreat is fully equippedwith fridge, coffee machine, kitchen, TV, DVD player and The range of varieties in the Topper’s Mountain vineyard, which sitsmusic system. at an elevation of 900 metres, has declined over recent times from an initial total of 28. Mark has grafted many back to the varieties that The cottage, designed for couples, has a king-size bed and are excelling. “We have experimented with quite a range of varietiesa two-person spa bath and is fully equipped for self-catering. with the objective of paring it back to a dozen varieties that suit theIn-floor heating, combustion wood heater and double glazing region and produce wines of interest.” The 2011 petit mansengensure a cosy stay. The lodge costs from $300 per couple per was grafted onto seven-year-old petit verdot vines in 2009. It is anight and the cottage from $240. little-known variety with origins in Jurancon in south-west France. Bruny Island Wines, Bruny Island Cheeses, the local CHARCOALsmokehouse and the island pub all offer gourmet experiences, ON THE MENUand you can pick up fresh oysters from the nearby oysterfarm. For details and bookings phone 0419 300 392 or visit HOBART’S wining and diningwww.adventurebayretreat.com.au. scene has been elevated following the opening of aCONCERN OVER LOST IDENTITY new concept restaurant, Charcoal, which openedTHE SOUTH Burnett Wine Industry Association is worried recently in the Grand Mercurethat the region may be overlooked in a new regional tourism Hobart Central Apartmentsbody. Southern Queensland Country Tourism was launched building.recently, merging the Toowoomba and Golden West, SouthernDowns and Granite Belt and South Burnett tourism groups Charcoal specialises inunder one umbrella. wood-fired pizzas, tapas and snacks in a casual ambience SBWIA president Jason Kinsella says South Burnett operators and also is a wine bar. Underwill work with the new organisation but he is cautious about the direction of Mercurewhether the new approach will work for a small, remote region Hadleys and Grand Mercure’s new executive chef Adam Roberts,that has its own strong country identity. “At the moment we the menu takes a modern twist on old favourites with non-have a real identity and we’ve worked very hard to build the conventional wood-fired pizzas and tapas.identity of the South Burnett as a wine tourism destination.We’re concerned and have been concerned that we will just An enticing list of epicurean pizzas include Iberico, made withbe lost in the blur, so to speak. I think the [new] region might 14-month-aged Iberico ham, roquette, quail eggs and parmesanbe a little too big.” crumble. The tapas menu features dishes such as freshly shucked local oysters, sous vide duck with broccolini puree, brioche croute and orange jus, tea-smoked ocean trout tortellini with saffron foam and snow pea leaf salad, and indulgent desserts such as chocolate fondant with creme fraiche and orange crystals. Leading Tasmanian wines have been selected by restaurant manager Lisieux Afeaki, formerly of White Sands Estate and Ironhouse Brewery, to complement the diverse and flavoursome variety of dishes. Think names like Tasmanian labels Cape Bernier, Home Hill and Leaning Church, along with Shaw+Smith and Hollick. Charcoal is at 154 Collins St, Hobart, and is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Phone (03) 6237 2999.14 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

briefsPROMOTING A BLASS BLEND CHANGE BREWING AT CASELLAA COMBINATION of youth and experience in the Wolf Blass CASELLA, the family-owned winery that has gone from zerowinemaking team is the key to the wines in the range continuing production to 12 million cases of Yellowtail wine annually in underto evolve and improve, two of its senior winemakers believe. Chief a decade, is expanding its horizons and has partnered with Coca-winemaker Chris Hatcher and senior winemakers Caroline Dunn Cola Amatil as part of its strategy to become a major player in theand Matt O’Leary are all long-time members of the team but Matt beer business. The Casella family, based in Yenda in the Riverina,says experience needs to be tempered by new ideas. has thrown down the gauntlet to beer industry giants Foster’s and Lion Nathan by launching a new premium lager called Arvo. “It’s important to have youth coming through with new ideas,as well as many years of experience,” he says of the Sydney The project started in April when Casella created the ‘Perfect2012 release of the Wolf Blass grey, black and platinum label Lager Project’ - a mission to discover what flavour profiles appealedwines. “There is a style to the wines, which has to evolve, but the most to beer drinkers in order to help the company brew a lagerthere also needs to be respect for that style, but at the same Australians would love. Around 3000 people took part using antime things cannot stand still.” innovative iPhone app. Company research showed, however, that public opinion varied between the preferred styles of lager. As a Chris says the luxury collection teams up two exceptional Grey result, Casella has launched two Arvo lagers, each with a slightlyLabel wines (a shiraz and a cabernet shiraz blend) from the different flavour profile. The public was then asked to vote onoutstanding 2010 vintage, “which pay homage to Wolf Blass’s whether Arvo 34 or Arvo 51 should be the final commercial release.roots and celebrate regional and varietal individuality. From themuch-lauded 2008 vintage, Black Label shiraz is the perfect Casella is serious about its new venture: the ultra-high-techexpression of provenance and skilful blending, while as the perfect brewery is capable of producing around eight million cases ofcounterpoint, 2009’s cooler harvest has enhanced the purity and beer a year. Under the terms of the agreement a new entity,line of the Medlands Estate terroir, which is evocatively reflected the Australian Beer Company, will take over Casella’s currentin the Platinum Label Shiraz.” brewing operations after December 16, 2013. This vision to form a joint venture does not include Casella’s winery business, which The new luxury collection features four wines: 2010 Grey Label will remain 100 per cent family-owned and operated by Casella.McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2010 Grey Label Langhorne Creek CabernetSauvignon Shiraz, 2008 Black Label Langhorne Creek Barossa SUMMIT SUPERSEDEDMcLaren Vale Cabernet Shiraz Malbec and 2009 Platinum LabelBarossa Valley Shiraz. THE SUMMIT restaurant above Australia Square a Sydney dining icon for 44 years, has been replaced by O Bar and Dining, although chefA CUT ABOVE and owner Michael Moore has stayed on to head the new enterprise. The vast circular space with spectacular 360-degree views offersSYDNEY wine lovers and a new multi-layered bar and dining experience, featuring a centralmeat eaters have a new lobby bar, lower-level lounge bar, restaurant and private dining room.hangout - The Cut Bar & Seasonality and ripeness drive the menu. “Great food can be local,Grill. Inspired by New York’s sustainable and interesting,” Michael says.” Most of all it has to besuper-chic steak restaurants, flavoursome and innovative, while still being good for you.”The Cut celebrates the finestcuts of prime Australian beef At a time when many Sydney restaurateurs are struggling or evenand sustainable seafood, closing up shop, Michael’s recreation of the venue could be seen ascooked by award-winning daring. However, the celebrity chef, author and nutrition advocatechef James Privett. But it is says it was necessary to ensure long-term success. “Although thethe wine list that has locals salivating: a simply splendid selection Summit had been a fixture of the local dining scene for many years,of Australia’s best labels and cutting-edge imports. At 16 Argyle this rebirth is an essential move forward to meet the emerging trendsSt, The Cut is part of the heritage Argyle Precinct in The Rocks. of the moment,” he says. O Bar and Dining is open seven nights aPhone (02) 9259 5695; www.cutbarandgrill.com. week and for lunch from Wednesday to Friday. Phone (02) 9247 9777. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsA TASTE OF styles are what we all look for. We’re beginning with half a hectareGREECE AT CLARE of assyrtiko using two cuttings from a single vine - a true mother vine and Santorini clone.”JIM Barry Wines in the ClareValley recently planted the Peter says the laborious process of importation and quarantine hasfirst cuttings of Greek white discouraged many Australian growers from trying new varieties. “Iwine grape variety assyrtiko don’t think it would have been possible without the assistance andin Australian soil. Managing encouragement from Robert Hill Smith and his team at Yalumba. Thedirector Peter Barry says Yalumba nursery in the Barossa is fully accredited for quarantinehe had enjoyed assyrtiko and they advised and assisted us with the whole process.”while holidaying on the Greekisland of Santorini in 2007 and Wine from the assyrtiko vines is five years away, but Peter sayswas keen to try the grape in it will be well worth the wait.Australian conditions. THINKING SMALL “Assyrtiko immediatelystood out as a variety suited FOR those times when a full bottle of wine is too much, Brownto the modern Australian palate,” he says. “The fresh, crisp acidic Brothers has released its Sparkling Moscato Rosa, Moscato andqualities of the wine are perfect accompaniments to contemporary Cienna wines in stylish ‘mini’ bottles. “It’s only fitting we offer ourAustralian food – it’s a natural partner for our climate and cuisine.” popular moscato and cienna wines in the new size, meaning people can enjoy the big fruit and refreshing flavour they’ve grown to love Assyrtiko is grown predominantly on Santorini in arid, windy and on more occasions, especially in the outdoors,” says Ross Brown.hot conditions but, says Peter, “The Clare is a cool district with Brown Brothers suggest enjoying the minis - each contains 1.1good rainfall but we must face up to climate change and water standard drinks - through a straw, removing the need for glasswarescarcity and adapt our management appropriately. Varieties which or oversized wine coolers. Recommended retail price of a four-can grow on minimal irrigation and still produce contemporary wine bottle fridge pack is $19.90.16 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

briefsNO IRISH JOKE SHOW SYSTEM UNDER SCRUTINYEVEN those who had enjoyed WITH more than 70 wine shows on the Australian calendar anda glass or two of Guinness the growing doubts about the relevance of the show system, somenight before must have been of the brightest talents of the industry gathered in the Huntersurprised to see a vineyard Valley to discuss the future of the Australian wine show systempop up in the middle of Dublin in the 21st century. After much debate and challenging of therecently. The McGuigan City status quo, those involved in the show system decided theVineyard project saw the shows have played a key role in shaping Australia’s wine stylescultural hub of Meeting House and trends and the best regional and capital city shows willSquare in the centre of the continue to be critical to the pursuit of excellence in viticulture,Irish capital transformed into winemaking and marketing.a ‘real life’ vineyard completewith over 80 sixty-year-old Many of the country’s agricultural societies and wine showvines, a cellar door, wine committees were represented, with perhaps one of thebarrels, tractors and an biggest outcomes being a meeting of the minds and sharingenthusiastic Aussie winemaking team led by chief winemaker of ideas and current activities between these groups. TheNeil McGuigan. The vineyard was timed to coincide with the 20th convener, Brokenwood’s Iain Riggs, said: “We wanted toanniversary of the iconic McGuigan Black Label range, which make the most of bringing this group of talented peopleis the key driver of McGuigan Wines success in Ireland. The together. A core role of the Len Evans Tutorial is to foster theproducer of Australia’s number one selling branded bottled red next generation of wine show judges and so we all have awine, McGuigan Black Label Red, McGuigan Wines enjoyed a 17 vested interest in the strength, relevance and future of wineper cent increase in sales in the past financial year, and now sells shows.” The meeting decided it wanted to move dialogue2.4 million cases worldwide. about the purpose of wine shows from “improving the breed” to the “pursuit of excellence”. Exceptional exists, savour the moment TROPHY - Champion Pinot Gris at the Bragato Wine Awards 2012 GREYSTONE GOLD - China Wine Awards 2012 5 stars - Raymond Chan WAIPARA VALLEY • NEW ZEALAND Raymond Chan Wine Reviews 5 stars - Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide to New Zealand Wines 2011 SILVER - Inaugural Canterbury Wine Awards April 2012 PERFECTLY RESTRAINED EXCEPTIONAL.IDEATION-GRE0007 Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWEASY ON THE ALCOHOL AS WINEMAKERS SEE THE LIGHTIN THE UK, the trend to lighter-alcohol Market analyst Nielsen reported that it is climates in the southern hemisphere,wines and wine-based products, along now worth £22.7 million. fruit sugars can still reach a heady 13-with a marketing proposition of fewer 14 per cent abv in the finished wine, socalories, started very slowly several Added to this, if enough alcohol has the northern hemisphere is more suitedyears ago. Weight Watchers were one of been removed to get the product to to alcoholic modesty.the pioneers in this category, introducing 5.5 per cent, then the reduced alcohola Weight Watchers wine in 2002. In the wine-based drink also benefits from a German riesling has to be the standoutpast few years the category has really lower tax regime in the UK. If the product choice - the Mosel and Saar, for example,taken off. contains between 4 and 5.5 per cent make delicate, racy rieslings of exquisite abv, it pays 136 per cent less excise fruit/acid/sugar balance with around 8 European Union law states that to duty than wines (which, for tax purposes, per cent. Often called the wine trade’sbe called ‘wine’ the minimum alcohol have between 5.5 and 15 per cent). best-kept secret (loved by those whoby volume (abv) has to be 8.5 per That’s £0.81 per bottle rather than £1.90. know them), these are not to everyone’scent. There are, of course, one or two Quite a difference. Combine this with tastes. Sparkling wines from France andexceptions to this rule, such as in marketing campaigns of fewer calories the UK check in at around 12 per cent,Germany, which was producing delicate and the arguments can be persuasive while Spain’s sparkling wine, cava, isand precisely balanced wines of around for lower-alcohol products - especially, usually around 11.5 per cent. And all7 and 8 per cent before EU legislation as Alison Flemming MW, export director these without a whizzy reverse osmosis or spinning cone machine in sight.Research has shown that there are three thingspeople are loathe to give up when following a healthy A more mainstream still wine choiceeating program - chocolate, bread and wine. might be Chablis. Bone-dry. Made from chardonnay. Often without oak. Aroundwas ever a twinkle in any politician’s for Reh Kendermann, who make Weight 12 or 12.5 per cent naturally. Racy,or lawyer’s eye. Wines such as Weight Watchers wines, says “research has steely, and fitting with the new AussieWatchers, which are made purely from shown that there are three things people zeitgeist for skinny chardonnay fromGerman grapes, are legally wines in EU- are loathe to give up when following a local cool climates such as Morningtonspeak; that is, they have a minimum 8.5 healthy eating program - chocolate, Peninsula, Gippsland and Tasmania.per cent alcohol. bread and wine”. While officially being part of Burgundy, Since 2008 winemakers have been Many of the newer entrants to the Chablis is a detached, northerly outpostallowed to remove up to 2 per cent of market are, perhaps unsurprisingly, from of this region, lying closer to the Sancerrealcohol by, for example, using a spinning New World countries. Lindeman’s Early and Pouilly-Fume appellations of thecone or reverse osmosis kit, and this Harvest range, from Australia, comes in Loire, and closer still, around 60km, tohelped to open up the category a little. around 7.5 to 9 per cent abv. First Cape Champagne a little further north-east.These products are still called ‘wine’, wines, from South Africa and Australia, It’s a distant 140km in a south-easterlybut are generally at the 10-11 per cent come in at 5.5 per cent, in response direction to Dijon.abv mark. to consumer demand for lower-alcohol wines from established brand names. Not only is Chablis the most northerly Where the abv has been reduced More recently, Blossom Hill Vie (various outpost of Burgundy, but it is a zonesignificantly, including by these methods, countries of origin) and Arniston Bay of chardonnay on a specific type ofsuch products fall into a different category, Light (from South Africa) have appeared limestone, which Louis Moreau ofand the EU being what it is, the category is on the shelves. Domaine Louis Moreau says givesnot a sexily named one. It goes under the “finesse, purity, elegance and depth”moniker of ‘reduced alcohol wine-based A less technological way of selecting to the wines. This particular kind of soildrinks’, and some of these may also have wines of modest alcohol, of course, is is a mix of Upper Jurassic limestoneadded aromas. It is this wine-based drinks to choose wines from cool climates in with countless small oyster-shell fossilscategory that grew more than 40 per cent the northern hemisphere where fruit and clay, which has long been said,in the 12 months to the end of May 2012. ripens at low sugar levels. Even in cool along with the cool, northerly latitude, to enhance the characteristic lean, linear, pure form of Chablis wines. This limestone-and-clay-with-oysters soil is18 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

named after its English (and Chablis) A QUALITYorigins - from the village of Kimmeridge, PHILOSOPHYin Dorset, just a hop across the EnglishChannel on the southern England coast. Located in Gibbston, Central Otago, Coal Pit reflects theMost other parts of Burgundy do not dedication of husband and wife team - winemaker Lynnhave the clay and oyster fossil mix that Horton and viticulturist Gary Crabbe.makes the Chablis terroir unique. The The wines are grown using the philosophy of Biologicallimestone is older. Farming in which the health of the soil is paramount. Rather than chemical inputs we put life and associated nutri- There are just over 5000 hectares in the ents back into the soil, to promote root exploration.whole Chablis appellation, which makes Healthy vines are critical in order to ensure the long hangit about the same size as St Emilion in time required to make complex and subtle Pinot. At anBordeaux, or twice as big as the Yarra elevation of over 400m we need every long, dry autumn dayValley, or two and a half times smaller to ripen the tannins, eliminate green character and developthan the Barossa Valley. It’s not a big perfumed aromatics.region, and it grows only chardonnay. The motivation behind the decision to build the winery on site, rather than sending the grapes away for production, The wine style is incisive, edgy and was the desire to be able to pick the grapes at their best.nervously excited, with tension and Then, while the grape’s vibrancy and delicate flavours weretautness creating a tingle of expectation. still fresh, to quickly transfer them to the fermenting tanks.It is the epitome of the steely, stony, This makes it one of the few single vineyards in Gibbstonflinty, floral, crisp and refreshing wine, where the grapes are grown, handpicked and crafted intousually unoaked, that cool climate wines on site.Australia is aiming to create with someof its chardonnay, in antithesis to the Coal Pit “Tiwha” Pinot Noir - elegant, velvety, full flavouredbeefy, brash, oaky chardonnays of the and well balanced. Awards include:past. Moreau says that, “when young, ½ Winestate[Chablis] tastes of lime, grapefruit, citrus, Gourmet Wine Travellerwith purity and freshness”. And whereas Blue/Gold - Sydney International Wine Competitionin Australia, malolactic fermentation Gold - Liquorland Top 100may well be avoided to retain as much Silver - Decanternatural tingly-apple acidity as possible, Silver - International Wine Challengein Chablis malolactic is regularly done Coal Pit Sauvignon Blanc - exceptionally rich tropical flavoursto take the edge off that cool, northerly unique to this region. Awards include:latitude crisp acidity. Gold - San Francisco International Wine Competition Coal Pit Pinot Noir Rosé - This year we produced a small par- This general theme doesn’t apply to cel of sophisticated which is made in the Saignée style.Grand Cru Chablis, which tends to bea notably different style, usually oak- Coal Pit Winefermented and/or aged, and made for the 121 Coal Pit Road, Gibbston, Central Otagolonger-term, with bottle-age a necessary Contact—Terri Bruce +64 27 269 1389part of the style. www.coalpitwine.com Apart from this, many Chablis premiercru, probably most Chablis (village level)and Petit Chablis are likely to avoid overtoak influence. Petit Chablis tends to bethe simplest expression, well suited touncomplicated, casual occasions, whilepremier cru “brings roundness, depth,weight, a big second layer of quality”, saysMoreau. All without excessive alcohol. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYTRADITIONAL CAVA DESERVES RESPECTTHERE has been an explosion in the variety into three zones: Coastal, the Penedes herbaceous aromas and gives structureof sparkling wines in Australia, driven by Depression and the Pre-Coastal Range. The and body to the blend. It can dominate afactors such as a strong Australian dollar soils vary in all three. On the coast it is not cava wine and needs to be restricted as itthat makes champagne nearly as cheap surprising to find gravel and calcareous soils. is a high-yielding variety.as home-grown fizz. This has coincided Further inland, on the flatter valley bottomswith the public’s desire to learn more about that form the depression, there are deep Parellada is the lightest of the three andwines from overseas, as well as Australian sand and clay-based soils. Finally, in the performs best in the higher altitudes of theproducers diversifying their offerings and Pre-Coastal Range that stretch to towards Pre-Coastal Range. It has large but looseproducing prosecco and sparkling moscato. the stunning Montserrat Mountains there are bunches which resist rot and provides theIt has all resulted in a vibrant marketplace. shallow clay and sandstone, with substrata acidity in the blend, together with some fresh of limestone and vines are planted to around tropical notes. The aromatics of all three However, one style has not received the 600m. All three soils are poor and the climate grapes are subtle and, some would say,same recognition, and that is cava, the is dry; the 2012 vintage, for example, has undistinguished, but that is not necessarilySpanish sparkling wine. Cava shares the seen yields down by 35 per cent. Each soil a bad thing with a sparkling wine base. Tosame method of production as champagne, is matched to a grape, as in Champagne. some Spanish producers, chardonnay andbut seems to live in the shadows of the pinot grown in these Mediterranean climatesglitzy, luxury world inhabited by the people While chardonnay and pinot noir are can produce fat, alcoholic, heavy wines thatof Epernay. However, when you start to permitted and have gained a strong foothold make them unsuitable to cava production.look closely at the product it has some in cava, the industry was built on indigenousexclusive and remarkable features and varieties, and some producers like Agusti The Spanish have used champagnedeserves our respect. Torello Mata refuse to use these French technology and adapted it so, not grapes. They use the classic white grapes surprisingly, before the 1970s, the wine was Take its location. The cava wines are of macabeo, parellada and xerel-lo with the known as ‘champana’. The first sparklingunique as they don’t necessarily belong indigenous red grape trepat for the production wines were made in the mid-1870s by Joseto one region. Since Spain joined the EU, Raventos for the company Codorniu after he had visited Champagne. Today, CodorniuTo some Spanish producers, chardonnay and pinot and Freixenet are the dominant cava labels.grown in these Mediterranean climates can produce Cava producers use the same cool environment as Champagne to mature theirfat, alcoholic, heavy wines that make them unsuitable wines. Cava is a Spanish word meaning ‘cellar’ - and the whole of northern Spainto cava production. is a feast for cellar dwellers, with many excavations going back centuries. The winecava can be produced in the large regions of rosat or rosé. Garnacha and monastrell can has a very slow secondary fermentation inof Valencia, Navarra, Rioja and Aragon. But also be used under Spanish wine laws. bottle. “Our wines ferment at a low 12C fornearly all the production comes traditionally three months, which produces very small,from Cataluna, and just like in Champagne Macabeo is grown in the poor soils of the fine bubbles,” explains Maria Torres Orriols.it is centred around one town - Sant Coastal region to restrict its tendency to beSadurni d’Anoia or San Sandurni de Noya, high-yielding. It has compact bunches and Cava must spend a minimum of ninedepending on which dialect you choose. needs the coastal breeze to dry the berries months on lees. When aged for 15 months and avoid rot problems. In Rioja it goes it can be labelled as Reserva, and 30 Here in the Penedes region, south of under the name viura and is common in months qualifies for a Gran Reserva title.Barcelona, the climate is hot and influenced southern France. Macabeo is the dominant Such wines bring the benefits of nearlyby the Mediterranean Sea and totally at odds, grape and the most important one to Agusti three years of autolytic development.compared to other sparkling wine regions, Torello; “It provides the elegance in the blend Take Augusti Torello Mata Gran Reservaespecially cold Champagne. The rule of and is important for the ageing process,” from the 2008 vintage, for instance. Youthumb is that you cannot use hot climate says Maria Torres Orriols, communications get lovely toasty, nutty, bready, yeastgrapes to make fine sparkling wine. So that manager at Torello. The wine is fairly neutral, dough and brioche notes that you find inis another reason why cava is different. with some pear and grapefruit nuances. fine champagne. The palate is elegant, with good length and the wine has a fine According to top-quality cava producer Xarel-lo is grown in the clay soils of the mousse. All that without resorting to theAgusti Torello Mata you can divide the region Penedes valley and provides the earthy, ‘classic’ cocktail of French grapes.20 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGSICILY, NOT SO MUCH MAFIA AS MARSALAThere’s something darkly thrilling about 1.2 million inhabitants, and the city is as and Attic 12 (attic12.com), both pricedhaving a prejudice confirmed. The first gritty as it is vibrant. from $90 per double.time I visited Sicily, a thief nicked mybag as I walked along a quiet street in The traffic can be horrendous, but British hotelier Sir Rocco Forte hasSiracusa. But over the past decade the even if the streets are gridlocked I revolutionised the five-star hotel scenelargest island in the Mediterranean has never miss a visit to the city’s famous in Europe with 13 stylish propertiestaken major steps to shed its Mafia- outdoor market, the Vucceria, where the such as the Hotel de Rome in Berlin anddominated image with well-publicised displays of local cheeses and fish form Brown’s Hotel in London. The group’spolice stings that have netted as many ready-made photo ops. I have never outpost in Sicily is the Verdura Golf andlocal pollies as mobsters. had the guts to order one popular local Spa Resort, which is one hour’s drive snack, pane ca’ meusa, or veal spleen from Trapani and 40 minutes by road Forget guidebooks. The best tome to sandwich as we say in English, but still from the World Heritage-listed Valleypack for a first time visit is Midnight in hope to build up the courage one day. of the Temples, home to the Temple ofSicily by Peter Robb. A former teacher Just the sort of rib-sticking fare for a long Olympian Zeus, the largest Doric templefrom Melbourne, he penned what The day visiting the glorious Norman palace, ever built.Economist described as “simply the with its much-decorated royal chapel,best book in English about Italy” in 1996. the Capella Palatina, and the Teatro The guiding philosophy of the VerduraRobb lived in Naples for 15 years and, Massimo, the largest theatre in Italy, is “the art of simple luxury”. Translation:although the award-winning book is a where Enrico Caruso trod the boards six tennis courts, eight swimming pools,quick study in Mafia infrastructure, it’s during the opening season. a vast spa, nine restaurants and bars,not a Sicilian version of Underbelly. The two 18-hole championship golf coursesisland’s history, art, food and traditions The late 19th century is regarded as and 230 hectares of surrounding hillare explored in a compelling style that almost yesterday in Sicily, where the country, manicured gardens and landscape bristles with the remnants of evocative scrubland.One of the best-preserved ancient Greek amphitheatres in Europe, complete withmagnificent ocean views and the looming presence of Mt Etna.matches Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code Carthaginian settlements, Saracen forts, Goethe first brought Taormina tofor page-turning readability. Norman castles, Roman amphitheatres the modern world’s attention as a and Greek temples. The best place for major stopover on the Grand Tour in There’s a saying in Sicily that there are an historical quick study is Palermo’s the late 18th century; a colourful andonly good drivers because the bad ones Museo Archaeologico Regionale, aristocratic legacy that has ensuredare all dead. But a self-drive holiday is one of Italy’s foremost ancient history that Taormina has the lion’s share ofthe only way you can visit any or all of the museums, which livens up the timeline upmarket hotels from the Grand Hotelisland’s 23 major DOC zones, the largest from the Etruscans and Greeks through Timeo (grandhoteltimeo.com), renovatednumber of official wine appellations in to the Johnny-come-lately Romans. to its former glory by Orient ExpressItaly. Dessert wines such as the world- Hotels, and its sister property, the Villafamous marsala account for close to 90 The Art Nouveau Villa Igiea Sant’ Andrea (hotelvillasantandrea.com).per cent of local production. But the past (hotelvillaigieapalermo.com) used to20 years have witnessed a huge uptick be my default accommodation choice Taormina’s main attraction, apart fromin quality of reds and whites from large in Palermo, as much for its sumptuous the incredible seafood restaurants andproducers such as Conte di Salapurata interior as its spectacular sea views booming nightlife, is one of the best-to small estates such as Fontanarossa and surrounding gardens. But there’s a preserved ancient Greek amphitheatresand Donnafugata. new crop of upmarket B&Bs where the in Europe, complete with magnificent prices are well under half those charged ocean views and the looming presence Palermo can be a shock even to regular by Palermo’s grande dame. Two of the of Mt Etna, Europe’s largest volcano,visitors to Italy. Sicily’s capital is a lot leading contenders are BB 22 (bb22.it) as a backdrop. A few years ago livebigger than most people expect, with22 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

performances again became a big part of Yorke Peninsula’sthe summer season in the town, including award winninga sold-out concert by Elton John. vineyard The biggest challenge when visitingSicily is to jettison the idea of trying to“do it all” in one trip, unless you wantyour visit to be a series of drive-byphotos. I once based myself in Ragusain the south-west of the island for 10days because there was so much tosee and do. The town itself is one ofeight places in Sicily listed by UNESCO,where the devastation caused by amassive earthquake in 1693 resulted ina rebuilding program that produced anarchitectural “riot” of Baroque churches,palazzos and villas. Ragusa Ibla, the mediaeval part ofthe town, alone has 14 buildings andchurches on the World Heritage list,and the only restaurant in Sicily with twoMichelin stars - Duomo (ristoranteduomo.it). Chef Ciccio Sultano serves updelicacies such as spaghetti with seaurchin and asparagus and his ampleyet attractive appearance would makehim a shoo-in as a writer in any movieset in Sicily. Segesta, a roofless, 26-columnedancient temple, ranks as one of the majordrawcards in the un-touristy westernpart of the island. And, unexpectedly,the region also provides an insight intoearly 20th century Australian history.Marsala, Sicily’s most famous wine, isproduced in these parts and today theregion of Trapani grows more grapesthan Argentina. As you drive throughwestern Sicily many of the river bedsare dry because their waters are used toirrigate the vineyards. It was a differentstory decades ago, when a series ofdroughts bankrupted local farmers.Many emigrated to Australia and the USto secure a better future for themselvesand their children. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 23

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L. SIMON IN AUSTRALIA - PART 3IT IS certainly true to say that Andre Simon first was a cabernet-shiraz blend, which When he reached Melbourne on Fridaylanded in Melbourne aboard the ship reminded Simon “of what used to be called 13 December, Simon was collected fromCanberra on Friday 13 December 1963 in tap rooms of London pubs ‘a mother- the ship by his friend Victor Gibson,and was immediately whisked off to lunch. in-law’, i.e. stout and bitter”. Next came a who with Simon’s Sydney friend, SirBut I have just discovered that Melbourne straight malbec, which was “still too young James McGregor, had organised thewas not his first landfall in Australia. Simon to be really pleasant but had character and visit. Gibson was president of thefirst set foot on Australian soil at Fremantle might become a very nice wine if given time Victoria Wine and Food Society, andin Western Australia three days earlier, on to mellow”. Then Simon tasted a straight had arranged a lunch in Simon’s honourTuesday 10 December. ‘Hermitage’, as Shiraz was then usually exclusively for the members. They came known in Australia: it was “a big wine, as from the Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong As soon as the ship docked one Harry sound as a bell, but a bell which did not and Warrnambool branches, with mostStone went to Simon’s cabin and introduced ring any bell to me”. This was followed from Melbourne. There were 55 or 58himself as one of Simon’s “hitherto unknown by another “pure” Hermitage, with some (depending where you look), all men, andbut devoted disciples”. After taking Simon age - vintage 1956 and apparently Jack no guests, although two members of theto his Perth home and proudly showing Mann’s pride. Simon found it “still black press were present.off his cellar, Stone picked up a friend, and big, but it had gained with age a faintIan Smith, and “motored at high speed” bouquet and a degree of softness on the The chosen venue was Antonio’sthe approximately 80km to the Houghton palate which was quite pleasant. It was the Restaurant, in Toorak Rd, South Yarra,vineyard and winery. Smith was managing best of the lot”. which was normally open to the publicdirector of Emu Wines, which owned for dinner only. It was, of course, oneHoughton, and an industry stalwart. The tasting finished with three fortified of Melbourne’s top restaurants. Back in wines: a ‘Light Dry Sherry’, made from the November 1956 the Australian Women’s Houghton had been described to SimonI cannot imagine Jack being proud of any of the [fortified] wines … The less saidabout any of them the better.as “the most important of the Western obscure Madeleine grape; “a Madeleine I Weekly quoted an overseas fashionAustralian vineyards and wineries”. It was have never met,” commented Simon. Mann magazine as having this to say aboutcertainly the largest. The esteemed Jack used Madeleine in his sherry because, as Antonio’s in Prahran - which may notMann, Houghton’s winemaker for 50 years he was to say some years later, he believed be the same place: “It has the bestfrom 1922, met them. Simon observed that it made “a most delicate white wine which food in Melbourne” and “offers gourmetMann “had evidently been ‘warned’ and took up the flor flavour admirably”. The other meals, restful decor, and interestingbrought forth the first range of Australian two were “a Port made up of Cabernet, atmosphere at an interestingly highwines I was to taste on their native heath”. Grenache and Hermitage; and a Liqueur price”. Antonio’s was noted for itsSimon’s reactions were mixed. He tasted Hermitage, a sweet dessert red wine”. ‘duckling a la Montagne’. “First, they spitthree whites, a nine-month-old 1963 the duckling on a silver sword, sprinkle itriesling, “clear and fresh and refreshing, Simon was not impressed. “I cannot with cognac, ignite it, and allow the juiceand already ready for any thirsty man, imagine Jack being proud of any of the and gravy to come dripping down on towoman or child”. Next came two 1962 [fortified] wines … The less said about any a bed of rice”.whites, “quite different”, a semillon (“rather of them the better”. Simon may have beendull”) and a verdelho (“more interesting”). Mann’s guest, but he was not about to Simon’s meal was far less exotic. It beganThe “semillon” was almost certainly the mince words or compromise his reputation with black and green olives and roastedHoughton stalwart White Burgundy, whose by being polite rather than honest in his almonds on each table, and two sherries:grape variety was later identified as chenin assessment of wines. Another high-speed Yalumba Chicquita Show Sherry andblanc. Then came three 1961 reds. The drive saw Simon back on board Canberra Quelltaler Granfiesta Show Sherry. Next for the voyage to Melbourne. time I’ll reveal the rest of the meal.24 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012



SPORTING CHANCES

Tamar Valley trio now chasing a different kind of fameWINSOR DOBBIN Australia’s best young cricketers - and still involved in a breakaway on the second holds a world record. stage into the Tuscan town of Cortona,EVERY SO OFTEN a flicker of beating future Tour de France winner Also part of the Tamar Valley Wine Route, Laurent Fignon to the line and becomingrecognition flashes across the face of a although a considerable bike ride away only the second Australian to win a stagevisitor to the newly revamped Velo cellar from Velo, is the tiny Sinapius vineyard, on a major tour.door in the Tamar Valley. That visitor is owned by Vaughn Dell. He, too, was oncealmost certainly a sports fan, probably a a sportsman of renown, a local football hero Racing against legends like Bernardclose follower of cycling, who has realised for the Tassie Mariners who almost made it Hinault and Greg Lemond, Micheal wonthat the vigneron pouring him glasses of to the AFL. Almost. a stage of the Tour of Spain (or Vuelta)wine is none other than Micheal Wilson, later the same year. Two years later, heone of Australia’s first world-class road The trio have all managed to channel helped Lejarreta to fourth overall in thecyclists, a star from the 1980s. their sporting competitiveness into new Giro and finished eighth in the overall channels. Micheal Wilson, for instance, classification himself. He continued to ride Micheal and his wife Mary now lead a very fell in love with wine after a career spent professionally until 1991 but he and wifedifferent life to the one they enjoyed when he traversing the wine-producing countries Mary, his childhood sweetheart, had fallenwas a competitor in races like the Tour de of Europe, albeit travelling at considerable in love with wine and food. After running aFrance and Vuelta de Espana - but they’ve speed most of the time. A member of the restaurant for several years they purchasedmade a major success of their new career Australian team time trial quartet at the 1980 their Legana vineyard in 2001 after Michealas cool-climate wine producers in Tasmania. Moscow Olympic Games, he raced as an had qualified as a viticulturist. amateur in Italy before being signed by Just down the road from the Velo cellar professional team Alfa Lum, who selected The pinot and cabernet in the vineyard haddoor in Legana is the Stoney Rise cellar him for the 1982 Giro d’Italia. been planted by Tasmanian wine pioneerdoor and winery, where a poster on the Graham Wiltshire in 1966. And Michealwall reminds visitors that proprietor and Although riding in support of team today makes wine from those old vines,winemaker Joe Holyman was once one of leader Marino Lejarreta, Micheal wasOpposite: Michael Wilson competing in the 1989 Tour De France ©photo PRESSE SPORTS. Above: (L-R) Michael Wilson, Joe Holyman & Vaughn Dell. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 27

THERE ARE SIMILARITIES When he and partner Linda Morice snapping up seven catches and sending released their first Sinapius chardonnay the likes of Tom Moody and Graeme WoodBETWEEN SPORT AND THE from the 2007 vintage it earned rave back to the pavilion. reviews and a gold medal at the TasmanianWINE INDUSTRY. IT’S A VERY Wine Show. The young couple are living But the lure of the vines proved stronger their dream of making top-class wines on than the appeal of squatting behind theCOMPETITIVE BUSINESS - the site of what was the Golders vineyard. stumps. Joe and his wife Lou continued a They produce only three styles: a steely family tradition when they purchased theAND EVERY WINE YOU chardonnay, off-dry riesling and pinot noir. rundown former Rotherhythe vineyard at Gravelly Beach in the West Tamar in 2004.MAKE YOU ARE ON TRIAL. Originally from Smithton, in north-western Joe’s father Robin had planted a small Tasmania, the couple developed a love of family vineyard 20 years earlier.which once produced fruit for the food and wine while working in Sydney.Chateau Legana and Heemskerk labels Vaughn has also worked under Guy Joe completed his Roseworthy marketingand include the state’s oldest cabernet Lamothe at Wedgetail Estate in the Yarra degree in 1995 and worked as a marketer, asauvignon plantings. The couple named Valley. Looking for a suitable vineyard site, sales rep and buyer and also gained vintagetheir estate Velo (the French word they learnt the Golders vineyard was for experience in New Zealand, Portugal andfor bicycle) and set to work. Most sale. “The price was right” and a deal was France before working in Coonawarra andweekends you’ll find a half dozen or struck in January 2005. The couple initially Mt Benson, where he formed Stoney Riseso high-tech bicycles parked outside sold their fruit but then rented space at with friend Mat Lowe in 2000.the cellar door, and Micheal is still an Holm Oak winery in 2007 and 2008 andenthusiastic participant and an adviser started making their own wines. The Stoney Rise label moved to Tasmaniato fellow Tasmanian and current Tour when Joe and Lou bought their vineyard,de France rider Richie Porte. “There Since 2009 the wines have been made and the Holymans now produce estate-are similarities between sport and the in a shed on the property next to the grown wines under both the Stoney Rise andwine industry,” he says. “It’s a very small home they have built on top of the Holyman labels, concentrating on chardonnaycompetitive business - and every wine hill. They recently got a rave review from and pinot noir from a four-hectare vineyard thatyou make you are on trial. Just like in leading British critic Jancis Robinson, was planted in 1976 and is one of the warmestcycling, every day counts, and I’m still who described their chardonnays, pinot sites in Tasmania. Out of curiosity, Joe haschasing golds, silvers and bronzes.” noir and rieslings as having “intensity that also planted a few rows of the Austrian variety transcends the norm”. gruner veltliner, producing tiny amounts that Like many young Tasmanians, Vaughn are very stylish indeed.Dell dreamed of becoming an AFL The focus will always be on chardonnayfootballer. He played reserve grade games because “we know the potential of the fruit “We’ve made a conscious decision tofor Melbourne and Essendon as a defender from here,” says Vaughn. While they follow concentrate on what we think we do best,”and turned out for the Tassie Mariners and organic principles, certification is a long he says. “With the Stoney Rise label wethe Burnie Dockers. After not making the way off. “We’ll take a holistic approach and aim to offer value for money, while thebig time, Vaughn turned to his second try to avoid chemicals, while at the same wines under the Holyman label are morelove - wine. And, a decade or so on, he is time being realistic,” he says. structured and designed for cellaring ifone of a growing number of talented young consumers wish.”winemakers challenging the status quo on Like Michael Wilson and Vaughn Dell,the island state. Joe Holyman is another sportsman turned And our sporting trio are far from the only winemaker. As a youngster he represented well-known names involved in winemaking Tasmania in Sheffield Shield cricket for two in the Tamar Valley, with Peter Whish Wilson seasons and still holds the world record for from the Three Wishes Vineyard recently the most catches by a wicketkeeper in a elected as a Greens senator. But that’s single innings on first-class debut. At just another story for another day. 20, he wrote himself into the history books, Above: Vaughn Dell owner of Sinapius Vineyard.28 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012





RIESLINGRISING CLARE VALLEY PUTS ITS HEART INTO PROMOTING A SIGNATURE VARIETALJENI PORTSAVVY STOCKBROKERS buy when riesling than any other, with 25 per cent The warmer Watervale sub-region of Clare of the nation’s total. In a quirky fun fact, it produced a floral beauty in the ‘02 Jimthe market is deflated - which seems is also the only region in Australia where Barry Wines Watervale Riesling, as well ascounter-intuitive but time has shown it can makers can boast of having planted more the wine of the tasting, the ‘02 Kilikanoonbe a smart financial move. Savvy Clare riesling than shiraz. Mort’s Block Riesling. Penna Lane in Clare’sValley winemakers are currently buying Eastern Ranges and Petaluma’s Hanlin Hillinto and attempting to take ownership of The Clare makers’ timing is fantastic, from north Clare also highlighted the greatthe riesling brand in this country - which what with a rip-roarer of a 2012 vintage delicacy and aromatic power of the grape inseems counter-intuitive. to shout about. It is considered one of the the fine winegrowing year of 2002. best riesling vintages in years, showing Riesling is no longer the ‘go to’ grape in poise and balance. Makers are touting But as good as the screwcap is atthis country that it was in the late 1970s it as a year producing wines capable of protecting a wine, especially from corkand ’80s. It’s been overtaken by younger, considerable longevity. taint, it does have its limitations. Theregroovier white grapes like sauvignon was a surprising number of wines - aroundblanc and chardonnay but the Clare They appear extremely confident, so three or four - that did not show any greatValley vignerons - like canny stockbrokers much so that they recently showed 24 of the freshness and vitality. Quite the opposite.- are looking long-term. They have a new, 2012 vintage Clare Valley rieslings againstcatchy regional slogan: Clare Valley: 25 Clare rieslings from 2002, another Maybe those wines simply weren’t theHeart of Australian Riesling. fantastic year. “The ability of a wine to age long-lasting kind and, as Jeffrey Grosset is fundamental to any claim to greatness,” was at pains to point out, the screwcap They also have, according to winemaker suggested Jeffrey Grosset. Here, he was actually designed to allow some airJeffrey Grosset, a “statement” to make about offered, was the proof: Clare riesling plus in. So, was he surprised by the number ofthe grape and their role in it. “We make screwcap equals longevity. less than vital rieslings from ‘02? Not really.elegant, long-lasting riesling,” he said atthe recent launch to announce the valley’s Well, almost. Many of the 2002 rieslings Also, to be fair, the early screwcaps,aggressive new marketing campaign with had indeed passed the decade as if in a such as those from 2002 (the Clare Valleythe grape. Highlighting a grape’s ability to time machine, looking youthful (some still winemakers acted en masse in introducingage at a time when most wine is consumed sported an immature green glow in the screwcaps to riesling with the 2000 vintage)within hours of purchase seems, well, glass), some had primary fruits to the fore were not as sophisticated as the screwcapcounter-intuitive. But still they persist. and many tasted fresh and vital. of 2012. The technology has improved and, with it, consistency of product. Of course, They do have history on their side. O’Leary Walker’s Polish Hill River Riesling a good bang to the top of a screwcap willThe region has been growing the grape of 2002 was exotic spice, honeyed toast make all of that completely redundant.since 1860 and produces more branded and grilled nuts. Very complex. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 31

SOME PEOPLE GO FOR PURITY; I LIKECOMPLEXITY, BUT NOT DIRTINESS. The Clare Valley of 2012 is also slightly process to intensify flavour (traditional A few producers are entering wilder,different from the Clare Valley of 2002. Aussie riesling makers argue there is little unconventional riesling territory: wildTen years ago, winemakers were almost call to use the skin of the grape, saying it can yeasts, wild uncontrolled fermentations,exclusively interested in presenting be related to the development of kerosene- lees stirring and oak maturation (in big,riesling stripped naked, with just striking like flavours, while others like the phenolic old oak vessels generally) are just somefruit and lively acid. Freshness and extraction and drive it can bring). of the alternative approaches. They hopevibrancy was the mantra. to not only create a buzz with the non-trad Some makers are interested in achieving Aussie style but also appeal to a new In 2012, the winemaking is similar but middle-palate texture, something that generation of riesling drinker interesteddifferent. Freshness and vibrancy remain used to come with bottle age or a dollop in something different.high priorities but these days there is the odd of residual sugar but is now being activelyadded accoutrement. Some makers now pursued from the start, often to be noted The Wilson Vineyard 2012 Polishallow skin contact during the winemaking in youthful just-released wines. Hill River Riesling is intense, heady in32 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

fragrance, moving into a rich lemon oil O’Leary Walker’s Watervale Riesling, sub-regional characters and promotingtexture and savouriness. Mitchell 2012 Kilikanoon’s Mort’s Block, Pikes Polish them will be the next big challenge forRiesling builds with tension and flavour Hill and Taylors St Andrew’s Riesling Clare makers.and tastes of the earth. “Some people go (sourced from Auburn/Leasingham).for purity; I like complexity,” says Andrew Just for future reference, for when youMitchell, “but not dirtiness.” And then there are the sub-regional start seeing them on labels, the seven influences on Clare riesling, something sub-regions are: Auburn/Leasingham; The gentle texture of 2012 Clos Clare winemakers are talking up. “There Watervale; Skillogalee Valley; Sevenhill;Riesling falls into that ‘new’ riesling are seven reasonably distinct sub- Polish Hill River; Eastern Clare Ranges andcategory: fresh, youthful and with a regional GIs,” says Jeffrey Grosset in North Clare.lovely soft, textural palate. The trad look a reference to the official Geographicalcontinues with solid makers like Grosset’s Indications now in place across all Now, repeat after me …Springvale Riesling (from Watervale), Australian regions. Digging down to the RIESLING TASTING STARTS PAGE 120. Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 33

maco COMBINE YOUR PASSION FOR WINE travel WITH THE NEED TO EARN CPDFor GP & Specialist Eyes OnlyJOIN THE AMACO TRAVEL GP & From $6380 per personSPECIALIST CONFERENCE IN VENICE plus $995 registration fee. Includes:28 June – 4 July 2013 · Return economy class airfare fromEarn up to 40 QI&CPD points* Australia to Italy on Emirates · 6 nights twin share accommodationDiscover the joys of Italian cuisine andfine Italian wines at the deluxe Europa Hotel · Transfers, tours and meals as specified For detailed conference and travel information visit: in the program www.amacoconference.com.au/winestate Winestate Readers and Wine Tel 1300 668 149 Society members also receive at no +61 3 9535 3666 additional cost: · A 5 course degustation dinner Fax +61 3 9561 4507 Email [email protected] conducted by a renowned local sommelier * RACGP accreditation application pending Join the extended tour to Verona and Milan for $2290 per person and receive at no additional cost: · A wine tasting tour to the spectacular Serego Alighieri Estate

WINE OF SPECIAL AWARDS FEATURE 2012 THE YEAR Featuring the winners and placegetters for each varietal category from over 10,000 tasted throughout the year. Plus profiles of the Australian and New Zealand winemaker and wine company of the year.Wine of the Year Winner Photography by Orange Lane Studios.

THE JUDGINGEVALUATING THE ELITEANOTHER YEAR, another line-up of From left: Phil Reedman MW, Louisa Rose, Winestate editor, Peter Simic, Chairman of judges Stephen John.great Australian and New Zealand wines panels can come up with slightly different John take over with his analysis of theto judge. results. Of course, at the very top level wines from each category. there are few ordinary wines, just personal Each year we bring together the top 4½ preferences which dictate the end result. Once again, it was an exceptional joband five star wines as judged by panels (Ever watched a Miss World Competition? by all the judges and thanks to all thethroughout the year. In Australia we have No duds there!) wineries who put their wines back intastings based on regional tastings, again for further scrutiny - not alwaysstyle tastings (varietals or blends of the This year our trophy panel included acknowledged (but we will see thempredominant varietals) and new release regular chairman Stephen John, Master recognised in the following Annual issue).tastings. In New Zealand Michael Cooper of Wine Phil Reedman and Yalumba’sand administrator Kay Morganty ably lead chief winemaker and senior show judge We recommend these wines for you totheir winemaker judges through regional Louisa Rose. try and buy.tastings from around the country, toppedup with Michael’s own new release results. Following the category tastings to select Cheers the five placegetters and winner of each The aim of the exercise is to choose class, the winners were brought back to Peter Simicblind the top five wines from 12 different choose the ultimate Wine of the Year and Editor/Publishercategories: Sparkling, Riesling, Pinot runner-up. The brief was to select theGris/Grigio, Semillon, Chardonnay, Pinot two wines that excelled in their category;Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz/ perhaps a step up from the winners inSyrah, Sweet Wines and Fortifieds. As other categories. Here I will let Stephenyou can imagine, it is a very nice taskbecause, although there are 400 winesinvolved over two days, the judges don’tneed to describe each wine; merely pickthe best of the best. It is interesting to note that some 4½ starwines rise to the occasion in this tasting,while some five star wines slip a little. Itshows the joys of judging, where different JUDGES Winestate Magazine would like to take this opportunity to thank our major sponsors for Stephen John their ongoing support · Food & Wine Travel · Wine Preserva · The Wine Society · Kennards Wine Storage · Pellenc · Classic Oak · National Wine Centre · Hamburg Süd · Transtherm · Logic Finance · Amcor Glass · Donaldson Walsh LawyersPhil Reedman MW Louisa Rose36 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

THE CLASSES CHAIRMAN’S COMMENTS IN BRIEFSPARKLING PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO DESSERT STYLESIt was a pleasure to judge this class. It is An intriguing class to judge with this up- A strong class of varying styles and varieties,great to see the continuing increase in and-coming variety. Vast differences in with the traditional recognised varieties andquality and style. Availability of fruit from style definition is obviously very confusing styles being rewarded. There was a big gapselected cool climate vineyard sites is to the consumer. Clearer descriptions between the top three wines and the rest. Trueobviously of prime importance with these in labelling would be of great benefit, botrytis is definitely an advantage with thesetop-end wines. Complexity, elegance and particularly in regard to sugar levels. wines, giving the fifth dimension of excellence.freshness were features. PINOT NOIR FORTIFIEDRIESLING A big class of diverse styles. Brightness It is great to see the maintenance of theseDiversity of style in this class was of fruit was a feature in the top wines. fantastic wines, despite flagging consumerfascinating, with a different approach Many wines were just too big and interest. Thank you.to making, particularly between New extracted, not allowing the true varietalZealand and Australia. The top wine was fruit characters and elegance of thisoutstanding, with purity of fruit a feature, variety to be displayed. Advancedand there were a couple of very stylish off- colours and staleness are problems indry styles. Clearer labelling of sugar levels too many wines.would be of benefit to the consumer. MERLOTSAUVIGNON BLANC A very small class and, other than the topUnanimous top award; very stylish and true two wines, these were generally thin, withto varietal definition. The majority of wines poor colours and lacking interest. Clonewere of very good quality, with a greater selection is obviously a major problemcontrol of sugar levels than seen in the past. which should be addressed.However, very few wines stood out in thecrowd. Too much sameness! SHIRAZSEMILLON As expected, this was by far the biggest class to judge, with over 130 wines ofAs usual, it was an absolute pleasure to 4½ and five stars - a true reflectionjudge this class. We were presented with of the importance put on this varietya vast array of excellent wines, from current and the reason for its popularity. Thevintage fresh, herbaceous wines to the 2010 vintage has produced manyclassic bottle-aged Hunter styles. The top outstanding wines from virtually everyaward went to a complete wine with many recognised district. The top wine wasyears ahead of it - superb. a clear winner, displaying superb balance and breeding, richness of fruit,CHARDONNAY controlled use of oak and alcohol with very structured tannins.A big class of very interesting wines,displaying many varying approaches to CABERNET SAUVIGNONthe handling of this great variety.Clever use of varying fermentation techniques The winner is a classic example of a veryand controlled use of oak was a feature of well crafted wine with great intensity,the award-winning wines. The top wine is structure, balance and freshness.outstanding, displaying cool climate fruit Generally a disappointing class,intensity of flavour and elegance with beautiful particularly considering the fantastictexture. Several potential top wines went a ’10 vintage. Premature maturity in a biglittle over the top in the search for complexity! percentage of the wines is of concern.*All technical details for the Wine of the Year Special Feature are supplied directly from each winery. W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 37



SPARKLING of the year WIN NER THE FOOD & WINE TRAVEL TROPHYColdstream Hills Yarra Valley Pinot NoirChardonnay 2008WINEMAKER:Andrew FlemingCOLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Pale straw. Fresh and lively, with attractive autolysisnotes of brioche and biscuit. Pinot perfume is evident,with underlying lemon curd notes. Fine and long, withtexture, complexity and balanced acidity. Attractive pinotnoir perfume is underpinned by fine, lemony chardonnayand secondary notes of brioche. An appealing style fromthe warmer 2008 vintage.FOOD SUGGESTIONS:Canapes or just for enjoyment as is.CELLARING:To 2015.VITICULTURE:South-facing slopes on VSP-trained, 18-year-old vinesat Deer Farm Vineyard, Gladysdale, Upper Yarra Valley.Duplex grey clay loam soils.VINIFICATION & MATURATION:This wine spent three years on yeast lees in bottlebefore disgorging.CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:Phone: (03) 5960 7000E-mail: [email protected]: www.coldstreamhills.com.auSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 39

SPARKLING - WINE OF THE YEAR - 2009 W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS YELLOWGLEN VINTAGE GHOST ROCK VINEYARD PERLE PINOT NOIR CATHERINE CENTRAL CHARDONNAY 2008 NORTH COAST TASMANIA SPARKLING 2007 WINEMAKERS: WINEMAKER: Trina Smith and Charles Hargrave. Tom Ravech. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale straw in colour, with a fine, persistent Pale straw in colour and displaying toasty bead. The nose is lifted with subtle biscuit brioche, crusty bread and fresh apple and bread crust characters derived from characters on the nose. The palate is maturation on yeast lees. This leads elegant, with a balance of crisp and fresh into complex, floral scents with wild citrus and apple fruit with rich complexity strawberry notes typical of pinot noir; the derived from bottle ageing with yeast chardonnay component adds lemon curd lees. Natural acidity provides a minerally, and apple scents. persistent finish. Intense flavour, yet fine and elegant in the CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: mouth, closing to definitive minerality and Phone: (03) 6482 4005 a long, lingering finish. E-mail: [email protected] CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Web: www.ghostrock.com.au Phone: 1300 651 650 Web: www.yellowglen.com40 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

QUARTZ REEF METHODE MOUNT WILLIAM WINERY S.L.DTRADITIONNELLE 11 YEARS ON LEES MACEDONCHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS 1999PINOT NOIR 2007WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER:Rudi Bauer. Murray Cousins.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Lime yellow in color with a honeyed golden Brilliant green straw colour. Delicatedelicious apple bouquet and a creamy, toasty yeast bouquet. Initial palate ofdelightfully elegant, textural and precise grapefruit/lemon, followed by a mid-palate. The fine, toasty character of palate of vanilla and creamy brioche.chardonnay dominates, although the pinot A fine, lingering light yeast finish.noir adds a hint of richness and chocolate CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:box character. A tight, youthful wine with Phone: (03) 5429 1595good bready, nutty autolysis character. E-mail: [email protected] CONTACT DETAILS: Web: www.mtwilliamwinery.com.auPhone: +64 3 445 3084E-mail: [email protected]: www.quartzreef.co.nz Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 41

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PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO of the year WIN NER THE WINE SHIELD TROPHY Waipara Hills Equinox Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2011 WINEMAKER: SImon McGeorge. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale straw colour. Bouquet of apple, pear, wildflowers, hints of ginger and a slight nuttiness. The rich texture and fruit sweetness coats the mouth, then the balanced acidity steps in to tie up the palate, with a lingering ginger and pear flavour that goes on and on. A lovely dry, textural pinot gris that really reflects what the 2011 season delivered. A drawn-out growing season produced stunning pinot gris with weight and texture. Use of older barrels has added an extra dimension of complexity and persistence. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Richer Asian dishes like Peking duck. CELLARING: 10 years-plus. VITICULTURE: Grapes were entirely from the Home Block Vineyard in the Waipara Valley; gravely to silt loams. The bud break this year was late September/early October, followed by a settled and warm spring without any frost setbacks. The plants enjoyed good growth. Flower set was the earliest on record and also one of the best. The summer and ripening season were dry and cool. Through the growing season 230mm of rain fell; the hottest month was December with an average temperature of 18 degrees. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: A select hand-pick from our oldest pinot gris vines, whole bunch pressed and cool settled until extremely clear, then cool fermented in old barrels and left un-sulphured for several months to promote flavour development. Only old barrels were used so as to impart only subtle oak characters. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 3 520 6011 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.waiparahills.co.nzSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 43

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO - WINE OF THE YEAR - 2009 GET THE W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S LAST DROP OF PROFIT F IN AL ISTS OUT OF EVERY RAPAURA SPRINGS BOTTLE. MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2012 • A unique, flexible shield that protects wine WINEMAKER: from oxidation Michael Bann. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: • Extends the life of bottled This 2012 Marlborough pinot gris is wine for up to 5 days testament to the outstanding 2012 vintage. Bright, with a very fine pale straw colour. • Inexpensive, easy to deploy Aromas of red apple, quince, pear and and recycled with the bottle some underlying ginger spice. The off-dry palate is full, rich and fruit-driven, with • Tested by Provisor Labs in honey fruit flavours of pears and white Australia and ETS stone-fruit. The natural fruit sweetness is Laboratories in NAPA balanced by fine integrated acidity giving fantastic textural qualities matched with • International Distribution stunning length and a delicate finish. Agreements CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 3 570 2251 • Recipient of Australian E-mail: [email protected] Design Mark & New Web: www.rapaurasprings.co.nz Inventors Award44 W I N E S TAT E • Patent & Trademark protected www.wineshield.com HBT/WPR113/A Special Edition 2012

PEGASUS BAY PINOT GRIS 2011 GREYSTONE SAND DOLLAR WAIPARA VALLEYWINEMAKERS: PINOT GRIS 2011Mathew Donaldson and Lynnette Hudson.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: WINEMAKER:The aromas and flavours suggest freshly Dominic Maxwell.sliced, ripe pear, intertwined with hints COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:of quince, greengage and loquat. The Light gold in colour and with a refinedpalate is complex and multi-faceted, yet complex nose which opens up inwith an unctuous concentration of the glass, showing peach, nashi pearfruit and lusciousness, balanced by a and nougat with mild citrus and tropicalspine of minerality and grapefruit-like fruits. The rich and fine-grained pallet isacidity which draw out the length and full of stone-fruit, with a hint of underlyingcomplement the lingering aftertaste. smokiness. A multi-layered and dry wineCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: with a long and refreshing palate.Phone: +64 3 314 6869 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 314 6100Web: www.pegasusbay.com E-mail: jacinda.amer @greystonewines.co.nz Web: www.greystonewines.co.nz Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 45

Join Australia’s Original Wine Club and take home $50 to spend on wines of your choice!Founded in 1946,The Wine Society Wonderful winesis Australia’s original wine club.After66 years of bringing great winesand wine lovers together, we havedeveloped incredible relationshipswith wineries around the country andwe want to share the fruits of theserelationships with you. $50 value Gift Card www.w13in0e0so72ci3et7y2.c3om.au To get our relationship off to the perfect start, we’ll send you a $50 gift card to spendon any of our wonderful wines, education or events – just for joining The Wine Society. Fantastic food and Why join The Wine Society? Quality… guaranteed!wine matching events Our formidable Tasting Panel comprises Exclusive wines winemakers, show judges and even a Our Society label wines are extraordinary Master of Wine, so only the very best value and consistent award-winners. wines get the seal of approval. Exclusive Member prices Members receive preferential pricing on What does it cost? all our wines, as well as our wide range of events and educational programmes Buying 25 x $2 shares gives you around the country. membership of The Wine Society co- operative*.There are no annual fees or Wines with a story charges. Should you decide to leave us at In an industry increasingly dominated by any time you’ll even get your money back! supermarket giants, we stand apart as a You’ve really got nothing to lose.And with not-for-profit co-operative. Our passion is a fantastic welcome gift, you’ve got plenty for the little guy. Independent producers, to gain! small parcels, little-known wines and future classics; these are the things that excite us – wines with a story.Just call 1300 723 723 or visit www.winesociety.com.au and quote WST1212 Lic. No. LIQP770010086.The Wine Society supports the responsible service of alcohol. Liquor Act 2007 - It is against the law to sell or supply alcohol to, or to obtain alcohol on behalf of, a person under the age of 18 years. Code can be redeemed once per customer. Cannot be combined with any other offer. *For full conditions of membership visit www.winesociety.com.au.

RIESLING of the year WINNER THE WINE SOCIETY TROPHY Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling 2012 WINEMAKER: Bernard Hickin. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale green straw. Delicate white floral aromas of gardenia, lemon citrus blossom and jasmine spice. The finely balanced palate shows an attractive juicy lemon and lime flavour intensity, supported by a very elegant and taut mineral acidity providing a long and linear spine, which enhances ageing potential. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Oysters with mirin dressing, or seared scallops with Mediterranean vegetables tossed in lemon dressing. CELLARING: Will richly reward careful cellaring for up to 20 years. VITICULTURE: A very cool and wet winter throughout Eden Valley preceded the 2012 growing season. Optimum soil moisture profiles supported the early development of healthy vine physiology following budburst. Cool to mild conditions during spring set the potential for high-quality fruit from moderate yields. Dry, warm to hot weather at the start of 2012 necessitated supplementary irrigation to keep grape quality high. The fruit was harvested during early to mid-March. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: To ensure the grapes were harvested at optimum flavour and acid balance the ripening was monitored with regular berry tasting by winemakers and viticulturists in the vineyard. The fruit was harvested at night and rapidly transported to the winery. After crushing and must chilling, the free-run juice was drained and clarified with minimum skin contact, then cool-fermented between 13 and 15C with selected yeast to enhance the delicate flavours. The wine was bottled under strict anaerobic conditions with screw caps to retain the pristine aromas and flavours. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (08) 8521 3000 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.jacobscreek.comSpecial Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 47

RIESLING - WINE OF THE YEAR - 2009 W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS DI GIORGIO FAMILY WINES ST JOHN’S ROAD KONGORONG RIESLING 2012 PEACE OF EDEN EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2012 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Bryan Tonkin. Gregory Jackson. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale straw colour with green hints. Lifted Crystal-clear, pale straw in colour with lemon zest and red apple blossom lime green hues. Intensely fragrant, pure bouquet. Refreshing grapefruit and red aromas of lime zest with lifted floral notes apple flavours balanced beautifully with of citrus blossom and lemon myrtle. Equal crisp acidity and a lively palate. parts lively and luscious, the palate delivers CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: pure flavours of lemon and lime. This rich Phone: (08) 8736 3222 fruit and natural sweetness is perfectly E-mail: [email protected] balanced by the sherbet-like acid, giving Web: www.digiorgio.com.au rise to a textured, mineral finish. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: (08) 8423 0272 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.stjohnsroad.com48 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2012

VILLA MARIA CELLAR SAINT CLAIR PIONEER BLOCK 9SELECTION MARLBOROUGH BIG JOHN RIESLING 2011DRY RIESLING 2011WINEMAKER: WINEMAKERS:Jeremy McKenzie. Matt Thomson and Hamish Clark.COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE:Perfumed aromas of citrus, mandarin, Pale green-gold colour. Intense aromaswhite flowers and grapefruit, with an of lime and grapefruit leap from theunderlying wet stone minerality. The palate glass with subtle hints of mandarin andis delicate, displaying concentrated lemon apricot. An elegant wine bursting withand lime tones with a perfect balance flavours of citrus and green apples, withbetween concentrated fruit and fine acidity a delicate honeysuckle note. Made in ain a dry style. Great with fresh summer spatlese style with the natural residualsalads or Thai/Asian-inspired dishes. sugar balanced by firm acidity, creatingCONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: an off-dry impression.Phone: +64 9 255 0660 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS:E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 578 8695Web: www.villamaria.co.nz E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.saintclair.co.nz Special Edition 2012 W I N E S TAT E 49