Winestate Magazine May June 2011

wine investment & collectingBalnaves Shiraz, 2000 Charles Cimicky original carton) which sold for $485, and has slowed a little, possibly based onShiraz, Glaetzer Amon-Ra, Eileen Hardy another trio of the ’96 - also presented the current and continuing enthusiasmShiraz from the late 1980s to early ’90s in individual timber cases in the original for Bin 707. The Oddbins Good Grangeand Henschke Keyneton. Somewhat carton - which fetched $415. This Index (which looks at the prices paid forsurprisingly, there was considerable noticeable preference for quality stock the key 1986, ’90, ’94 and ’96 vintagesinterest in all vintages of Henschke was borne out by the strong clearance of Australia’s most collectable wine)Mount Edelstone. rate for all wines that displayed the remained steady at 129 points. Another Oddbins provenance tag (the company’s intriguing feature of this auction was Shiraz was quite a dominant player indication of good-quality cellaring), the strong bidding on a large offering ofthroughout the auction. Jasper Hill which reached a six-month high of just RWTs, including the 1997 vintage, andGeorgia’s Paddock, Glaetzer Godolphin under 60 per cent. the appearance of Koonunga Hill reds - aShiraz Blend, Kilikanoon Covenant, Penfolds brand not normally associatedMcWilliam’s Maurice O’Shea and The large Penfolds portfolio saw with the auction market (that is, in termsRosehill Hunter Valley Shiraz and clearances for this ‘auction favourite’ of numbers).Rockford Basket Press all cleared very slow down somewhat as buyers wentwell with strong bidding. Apart from quiet on the large swathe of vintage- Buyers of imported wines firmly stuckshiraz, a substantial offering of Wynns dated Grandfather ports, magnums, to the price guides in February, withBlack Label Cabernets, particularly Grange with conditions and, surprisingly, only five items reaching hammer pricesthose from the 1970s, as well as John the large offering of the Special Bins. above the top end of the guides. TheseRiddochs, all cleared well. There was Bins 128 and 28 from the 1998 and ’90 included two bottles of 1978 Vosnealso buyer interest in Chain of Ponds vintages, however, cleared very well, as Romanee, a bottle of 2008 Castro MartinThe Cachet Cabernet, Cullen’s flagship did most Bin 707s. Albarino Blanco and two half-bottles ofDiana Madeline, Grant Burge Shadrach Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee Champagnefrom 1998, and also from that famed ’98 Offerings of Grange from the mid- NV (recent bottling). That said, thesevintage - the 92-point Wine Spectator- 1990s and earlier - in good to perfect buyers were pleased with the newrated Katnook Cabernet. condition - also cleared well, although offerings of red Burgundy, especially there was a slowdown in sales of the from the traditional and popular producer, This auction also saw a strong return imperfect section. Among the Top Faiveley. Along with a number of qualityof buyers to Henschke Hill of Grace, 10 hammer prices paid for Australian champagnes from Bollinger, Moet etespecially those lots from the 1970s wine were magnums of 2001 and 1982 Chandon and Pommery and some oldand mid-’90s, in good condition. Several Grange in original timber cases at $900 offerings of Louis Guntrum Rhinehessen,of these lots featured in the Top 10 and $801 respectively, a bottle of 1971 these all cleared well.hammer prices paid for Australian Wine - Grange (with a cellar-nicked label) forincluding three bottles of 1998 Henschke $751 and a magnum of 1997 Grange For further information visit www.Hill of Grace (individual timber cases in for $700. Overall, the market for Grange oddbins.com.au. TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Patrick Barry on 0409 892 446 or email [email protected] May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 101

Wine your way fromocean to oceanAUSTRALIAN WINE RAIL JOURNEY7 SEPTEMBER – 10 SEPTEMBER 2011Return to the romance Departing from Sydney, travel on board the iconic Indianof rail travel, for an Pacific to Perth in the classic comfort of Gold Service.exclusive experience Enjoy fine wines, delicious food and unforgettableon the Indian Pacific scenery over three spectacular days.in conjunction withWinestate Magazine. The fully escorted tour by Winestate includes:$1859pp* PENSIONER 3 DAYS • Gold Service Sleeper accommodation on board CONCESSION 2 NIGHTS the Indian PacificGOLD SERVICE Senior $1982pp • Formal three course dinners matched with wine Adult $2487pp in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant • Super Premium Australian Wine showcasing over 20 varieties • Master Classes accompanied by regional tasting plates • National Wine Centre Tour and tastings in Adelaide • Indian Pacific Wine Souvenir Gift Pack • Winestate magazines

The wine experience doesn’t have to end in PerthWe have chosen some of the best Touring departing Perth Touring departing Sydneywine touring experiences tocompliment your rail experience. Swan Valley Wine Cruise Hunter Valley Wine TastingAsk us for more information and 4 Hours: $95 per person 1 Day: $179 per personaccommodation options available inSydney, Perth and Margaret River. Swan Valley, Wine and Wildlife Hunter Valley Wineries 4 Hours: $89 per person 1 Day: $195 per person Margaret River Wine Experience 2 Days: $599 per person Twin Share For more information and bookings please contact Great Southern Rail Groups Department 08 8213 4535, email [email protected] and Conditions for Brochure or Ad Offer: Offer valid for travel on the Indian Pacific from Sydney to Perth on 7 Sep 2011 only. To receive concessional fares Great Southern Rail is required to confirm your eligibility for the concession at time of booking and travel electronically with Centrelink. If you do not wish this to happen you will need to contact Centrelink to obtain a Pensioner Concession Letter as proof of your eligibilityfor the concession and provide this directly to Great Southern Rail before the concession can be given. Senior fares require Senior Card holders to pre-register to obtain a unique Great Southern Rail Seniors Concession Travel Card before the concession can be granted. To register for a Great Southern Rail Seniors Concessional Travel Card please visit greatsouthernrail.com.au/seniors or call 13 21 47. Offer not available in conjunctionwith any other offer apart from the $99 to $299 Motorail offer. Strictly non-refundable and non-transferable. Prices subject to change without notice. For general terms and conditions please visit greatsouthernrail.com.au. Offers can only be booked directly with Great Southern Rail Groups Department on 08 8213 4535. Travel Agent License No TTA164190. GSR16856/einstein

ChinaTopWine A visit to TopWine China 24-26 MAY, 2011 BEIJING 2011 works for you! The trulCyHinINteArnWatOioRnLaDl dTeRdAiDcaEtCedENwTiEnRe exhibition and conference• Meet the world leaders face-to-face and do business at the highest level• Meet the top wine experts, learn about the markets and latest trends network discuss partnerships• Compare, taste and select wines you are looking for• Develop your wine knowledge and improve your tasting technique Pre-register as a visitor: www.topwinechina.cnTopWine China 2011 includes: For more information,Junior Sommeliers Wine Services Team Competition please contact [email protected] Forum: World Wine · Chinese YearMaster Class Tasting sessions to promote Australian winesFind the latest exhibitor list on: www.topwinechina.cn

EAGLE B AY WESTERN AUSTRALIA

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINWESTERN AUSTRALIACOAST WITH THE MOST BEAUTIFULLY EXCLUSIVE NEWCOMER TAKES OFFTHE NEW Aqua Resort Busselton, on the SITTING in its own vineyard in the THE McHENRY Hohnen cellar door,Geographe Bay waterfront, is a terrific heart of Margaret River wine country, cafe and produce store, McHenry’sbase from which to explore the length and Nunkeri Fields Country House offers Farm Shop, has quickly become abreadth of Margaret River - one of Australia’s luxury accommodation with a gourmet popular destination for both Margaretbiggest wine regions. Offering understated breakfast of locally sourced produce. River locals and visitors. McHenryluxury beachfront accommodation, the Taking its name from the Aboriginal word Hohnen sources grapes from fourfour- and five-bedroom beach houses are meaning ‘beautiful’, Nunkeri Fields is an vineyards owned within the families ofdesigned for sharing with family or friends, exclusive one-bedroom hideaway in its David Hohnen and his brother-in-lawwhile the two-bedroom houses offer a more own separate wing of the house. Murray McHenry, with wines made byintimate getaway. David’s daughter Freya and her partner The accommodation looks out over Ryan Walsh. With the resort set on expansive sweeping lawns to the vines, whichpeppermint grove and landscapedgardens, each beach house offers privacywith an outdoor deck and barbecue andsome have the indulgence of a heatedprivate plunge pool and ocean views. Complete with a 25m lap pool, spa, sauna,tennis court and a gym with ocean views,Aqua also has a large grassed beachfrontarea that is popular for weddings andcocktail functions, while Busselton’s manyrestaurants, cafes and wine bars are justa stroll away. The resort is at 605 BussellHighway, Busselton; phone (08) 9750 4200;www.theaquaresort.com.au.A NEW KIND OF GOLD produce some outstanding cabernet The rustic shop sells produce from the sauvignon, a tennis court and native family farm of Cape Mentelle and Cloudy BayKENDENUP Lodge in the Great Southern bushland beyond. Guests can enjoy tennis, pioneer David Hohnen, meat from Arkadyoffers a range of accommodation just down boules, croquet or simply relax with a glass Wiltshire sheep, Jarrahdene free-rangethe road from where Western Australia’s first or more of complimentary wine. pork, Hairy Marron olive oils and sausages,gold mine was established in 1874. Today bacons and hams. Visitors can also taste thethe region is noted for its lush pastures and The guest wing comprises a queen McHenry Hohnen wine range and enjoy tea,many vineyards and Kendenup Lodge is set bedroom with separate bathroom and toilet coffee and an array of home-made cakes.on 16 hectares of natural bushland with views and has its own external entrance off the The farm shop is open daily from 10am-5pm,of the Stirling Range. The accommodation private verandah. In the bedroom are Italian at 5962 Caves Rd, Margaret River; phonechoices range from lodge rooms (with eight bedlinen, a choice of down or silk-filled (08) 9757 7600; www.mchv.com.au.rooms catering to three people each) to the duvets and a pillow menu.Cottage of Indulgence, with its own spa VOYAGE OF TEMPTATIONbath and option to request your own chef or For breakfast, the emphasis is onbutler. The two-bedroom cottage has a wood fresh local ingredients and produce VOYAGER Estate has one of Australia’sfire, espresso coffee machine, dishwasher, from the owner’s own kitchen garden. most spectacular cellar door/restaurantheated towel rails and total seclusion. There Nunkeri Fields is conveniently located complexes overlooking meticulouslyare also two family cottages that are air- equidistant from Margaret River township tended vines, rose gardens and sweepingconditioned and have wood fires, TV, full and Dunsborough, with easy access to lawns. The Cape Dutch-inspired complex inkitchens and great views. Kendenup Lodge a wide array of vineyards, restaurants, the heart of Margaret River offers tastingsis at 217 Moorilup Rd, Kendenup, about beaches and tourist facilities. Rates of several wines that are featured at cellar15km from Mt Barker; phone (08) 9851 4233; start from $340 a night including door only, as well as the core range.www.kendenup.com. breakfasts. Phone (08) 9756 6200; www.nunkerifields.com.au.106 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

travelbriefs The restaurant, open daily for lunch, MYO - MAKE YOUR OWN blending between different varieties andspecialises in local produce including regions is conducted.venison and asparagus, estate-reared SANDALFORD in the Swan Valley waslamb and Pemberton marron. Regular recognised as Western Australia’s That is followed by the chance to putvineyard and cellar tours are available on best winery cellar door for 2010 by their knowledge to the test, creating theirTuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays but the Australian Hotels Association. own blend, which will be critiqued bymust be booked in advance. Self-guided Sandalford, founded in 1840 and one the winemaking team, before enjoyingtours are offered daily. The cellar door is of West Australia’s oldest and largest the wine over a meal in the wineryopen from 10am-5pm, the restaurant daily family-owned wineries, triumphed restaurant overlooking the vines. Thefrom 10am-4.30pm for morning tea, lunch ahead of a shortlist of finalists including three-hour package is available onand afternoon tea. Voyager Estate is on Howard Park/Mad Fish, Houghton, Saturday mornings only and bookingsStevens Rd, Margaret River; phone (08) Saracen Estate, Wise Vineyards, are essential. Phone (08) 9374 9374;9757 6354; www.voyagerestate.com.au. Salitage Winery and Laurance. www.sandalford.com.au.AT SCHOOL WITH SOPHIE Sandalford not only hosts regular FIRST STEP IN A VISION concerts and is home to an outstandingCHEF, cookbook author and slow food restaurant, but also offers a ‘Winemaker MARGARET River has a new cellar dooradvocate Sophie Zalokar is opening her own for a Day’ experience for wine aficionados with the recent opening of Aravina Estate,cooking school, Foragers Field Kitchen and in a tour that includes a behind-the- formerly known as Amberley. OwnerCooking School, in the Pemberton region. scenes visit, where guests learn about Stephen Tobin, a seventh-generationSophie, a former pupil of Maggie Beer, the winemaking process. They then hear West Australian, welcomed over 300has been running Pemberton Breakaway from qualified winemakers why and how guests at the opening with a cocktailCottages - comprising eco-friendly chalets, function in the Aravina restaurant. Hetimber cottages and an old farmhouse - but told guests the opening of the rebrandedis well under way in constructing her dream winery was just the beginning of hisculinary destination. Weekend itineraries dream to create a unique tourism venturemay include roasting chestnuts over a - “a place where the multi-generationalhearth or learning to catch, prepare and family can be entertained without havingcook wild local marron. “I want to educate to drive all over the countryside”.people about resources in their naturalenvironment, to teach the intrinsic value of Plans for the property include a sportswhere and how food is grown, and why we car gallery and function centre featuringhave apples that taste nothing like apples,’’ cars from his private collection, as well asshe says. Foragers is at Lot 1, Roberts Rd boat shed-style tea rooms built out over(corner Roberts and Pemberton-Northcliffe the lake, a possible equestrian centreroads), Pemberton; phone (08) 9776 1580. and luxury guesthouse accommodation. Aravina Estate is on the corner of Wildwood and Thornton roads, Yallingup. The cellar door is open 10am-5pm, the restaurant 11.30am-3.30pm and the cafe 9am-4.30pm. The restaurant is also open for dinner Friday and Saturday nights, with chef Simon Morley-Smith behind the stoves. Phone (08) 9750 1111; www.aravinaestate.com.au. Left: Voyager Estate cellar door & restaurant. Centre: Nunkeri Fields bedroom. Below: Nunkeri Fields Country House accommodation. Opposite page: Aqua Resort luxury beachfront accommodation. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 107

443 TASTED OF THE WEST240 AWARDEDBESTOne of our biggest tastings, Western Australia continues OTHER WHITE Jamie & Charli byto delight. At the cafe table, lunchtime end of the BLENDS & Michael Goundreyspectrum we have the crisp and lively SSBs (semillon VARIETALS Denmark Fusion Blancsauvignon blancs) and SBSs (sauvignon blanc semillons) 2010 HHHwith some nice singular sauvignon blancs. At the more 15 TASTED Fragrant, floral aromas andserious dinner table end, oak-aged chardonnays and 3 AWARDED long, squeaky-clean acid palatecabernet-based reds continue to excite. However, with lovely texture. $18even here, be wary of some of the overripe wines from The judges thought this a verywarmer years such as 2008. The good news is that with generic class, with winemakersso many to choose from the cream rises to the top. making a good attempt with lesser-quality material. Consumers need to search around for the better wines.SPARKLING Palandri Vita Novus Oakover Wines Swan Valley SAUVIGNON Frankland River Blanc Classic White 2010 HHH BLANC9 TASTED de Blanc 2009 HHH Solid wine that smells of lychees5 AWARDED Straw-coloured wine with a and feijoa and has nice palate 26 TASTEDGenerally a group of fuller fine bead, lifted citrus aromas texture and weight. $15 10 AWARDEDsparkling styles, rather than and a flavoursome palate. Matilda’s Estate Denmarkcrisp, tight ones, with a couple Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Lots of borderline drinkingof pleasant sparkling reds. 3-5 $25 Chenin Blanc 2010 HHH wines but the judges liked the Beckett’s Flat Intense, bold and lively class. Interesting diversity ofSilkwood Wines Single Vineyard Estate wine with obvious semillon unwooded and lightly oakedLittle Bitch Pemberton Margaret River component and plenty of zippy styles. The better winesSparkling Pinot Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH freshness. $18 showed excellent fruit characterChardonnay 2009 HHHH Fresh, juicy and simple style and minerality. “We’reLovely fine bead and very with lovely berry fruit characters. beginning to understand thegood, light citrusy nose. Fresh, Quite tannic. Good drink. $25 variety,” said one judge.crisp and flavoursome palate Jarrah Ridge Winessitting in the greener end of Western Australia Evans and Tatethe spectrum. $21 Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH Metricup Road Margaret Bright red wine with earthy/ River Sauvignon Blanc chocolaty aromas and flavours 2010 HHHH1/2 and pleasing mouthfeel. $28 Pungent, tinned asparagus nose with obvious green bean-like Capel Vale Debut nuances. Lovely fresh palate - Western Australia vibrant and well-balanced, with Sparkling Brut NV HHH good flavour intensity and lovely Sweet citrus nose with a creamy texture. $22.99 tropical edge, and very ripe, sweet palate with good acidity Matilda’s Vineyard to balance. $19.95 Western Australia Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 Pungent nose with an amazingly lively lift, leading to a zingy fruit bomb of a palate underscored by crisp, lively acid. Lovely example of a youthful sauvignon blanc. $25108 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingWindows Estate Margaret Tassell Park Margaret Watershed Shades Palandri Vita NovusRiver Sauvignon Blanc River Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River Sauvignon Frankland Margaret River2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Blanc Semillon 2010 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc SemillonFragrances of green capsicum Finer, leaner style with herbal Citrus blossom nose with a slight 2009 HHH1/2and lemons with varietal and ginger spice aromas and an floral/feijoa-like lift. Tight, well- Very oaky wine but there ispungency. Lively and light in acid-fresh, citric palate. $22 balanced gooseberry fruit palate plenty of rich, juicy varietal fruitthe mouth and tasting of citrus Knee Deep Margaret River with savoury background and sitting underneath it all. $25fruit, with more of that pungent Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH nicely balancing acidity. $16.95 Barking Owlcharacter. $22 Subdued, delicate nose with Harewood Estate Great Sauvignon Blanc light citrus and capsicum Southern Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 HHH1/2Deep Woods Estate notes. Similar palate. Good Semillon 2010 HHHH Very herbal aromas - lovely andMargaret River Sauvignon acidity. $22 Very good style; fresh, lively fresh - echoed on the long,Blanc 2010 HHHH and well balanced. Quite herbal well-structured and very livelyDelicate, herbal-like nose with SAUVIGNON and grassy on the nose, with palate. $17.95bright, lifted aromatics. Good BLANC SEMILLON a lovely, well-structured citrus, Saracen Estates Margaretflow of steely gooseberry lime and basil palate. $19.50 River Sauvignon Blancflavours along the entire length 40 TASTED Knee Deep Margaret River Semillon 2010 HHH1/2of the textured palate. $20 24 AWARDED Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Fresh, lifted, bright sherbet styleAmberley Secret Lane Strong class. “This is a bread and 2010 HHHH with good balance between theMargaret River Sauvignon butter white for WA,” said one Gorgeous nose - all limes and varietal fruit, acid and subtle oakBlanc 2010 HHH1/2 judge. “These wines showed mandarins - with basil-like notes characters. $22Estery, citrus-like nose with the harmony of the blends with leading onto a fresh, lifted citruslight pineapple notes. Tight, freshness and vibrancy. palate with more of the herbal Streicker Bridgelandcrisp palate with good varietal When it’s good it’s great!” notes showing up. $22 Block Margaret Riverfruit flavours. $19 Leeuwin Estate Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc SemillonWatershed Margaret River Art Series Margaret River Skuttlebutt Margaret 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Semillon River Sauvignon Blanc Big, bold, intense wine smellingGrassy bouquet with lovely 2010 HHHH1/2 Semillon 2010 HHHH of lemon meringue pie and withoak influence, and interesting Stunning wine with a really Fresh, lively wine with subtle, quite an oaky palate. $32.50savoury palate with oak lovely nose that smells like fragrant floral bouquet. Palate Wild Oats Westerndominating. $24.95 a creme brulee with subtle a great marriage between the Australia Sauvignon BlancAbbey Creek Porongurup toasty oak in the background. fruit and acid, with a nice oily Semillon 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Excellent balance of acid and mouthfeel. $19 Toasty/woody nose and tight,Clean, simple tropical aromas fruit on a palate with plenty of Warner Glen Estate crunchy palate with lime juiceand quite syrupy in the mouth oak. $30 CD Margaret River Sauvignon flavours and nutty cashewwhich, according to one judge, Blanc Semillon 2009 HHHH oak. $18.99“kind of works!”. $22 Palandri The Estates Sweaty, pungent nose; heaps Sandalford Estate ReserveSomerset Hill Great Western Australia of oak mingling with lemons Margaret River SauvignonSouthern Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and limes. Nice palate - good Blanc Semillon 2010 HHH2010 HHH 2010 HHHH fruit characters and some Bright, youthful, high-acid wineFresh, lively green apple Attractive lemony aromas with smoky secondary notes. with sweaty/grassy aromasnose with some herbal notes. a lovely floral lift, and a well- Needs food. $25 and good weight of varietalLight, refreshing palate big on balanced and very flavoursome Goose Chase Margaret flavours. $22.95flavour. $19 fruit/oak palate with a long, River Sauvignon Blanc Capel Vale Debut Western lingering acid finish. $22 Semillon 2010 HHHH Australia Sauvignon Blanc Sweaty fragrances of Semillon 2010 HHH passionfruit, cut grass, herbs Fresh, fragrant and perfumed and new-mown grass. Good nose and lively citrus sherbet- acid zing to a palate with like palate. $17.95 simple passionfruit flavours with a citric touch. $15 Robert Oatley Margaret River Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 Musky aromas with grassy hints - not very fruity - and a zingy, sherbety palate with a big hit of lemon-like flavours. $28.99 Tassell Park Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 HHH1/2 Distinct ginger beer-like characters on both nose and palate. Great acid, flavour length and texture. $22 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 109

BEST OF THE WESTKillerby Margaret River CHENIN BLANC Poachers Ridge Louis’sSauvignon Blanc Semillon Block Great Southern2010 HHH 9 TASTED Riesling 2009 HHHHFragrant, lime juice-like aromas 4 AWARDED Big lift of lime aromas, followedand nice zing to a palate with by a palate that’s austere butobvious oak. $20 A few here showed their exhibits good fruit flavourRedgate Margaret River mettle. Some nice drinks but intensity to balance the acidity.Sauvignon Blanc Semillon sugar sweetness was the issue, Good cellaring potential. $18.992010 HHH with balance a major factor.Soft, easy-drinking style with Xabregas Mount Barkerearthy/savoury notes on the Swings and Roundabouts Riesling 2010 HHHHnose. Intense, juicy green Backyard Series Floral aromatics showing zestyapple palate. $21 Margaret River Chenin lemon lift. Quite sweet on frontGreedy Sheep Margaret Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 palate - very flavoursome, withRiver Sauvignon Blanc Delicate, savoury style with excellent acidity and lovelySemillon 2010 HHH slight perfumed lift to the nose freshness. Stylish wine. $17.99Lemon sherbet nose with a and some excellent oak on thespicy lift, and fresh, green apple palate. Should age well. $29 Howard Park Galafrey Dry Land Reservepalate with a savoury edge. $18 Great Southern Riesling Mount Barker RieslingCredaro Estate Beach Sittella WA 2010 HHHHH 2010 HHH1/2Head Margaret River Chenin Blanc 2010 HHH Very serious style with Very tight style. Nose quiteSauvignon Blanc Semillon Interesting musky, citrus, reserved, flinty/citrusy bouquet minerally and slatey. Lovely2010 HHH almond and floral combination showing a lovely scented lift. acid retention on the tight, crispSweaty/pungent aromas and of characters on nose and Very long, very tight, very good, palate. Needs more time. $20nice balance of vibrant tropical palate. $16.50fruit flavours with a firm acid flavoursome slatey palate. Harewood Estatebackbone. $16 Swings and Roundabouts Just needs more time to really Great Southern RieslingMinot Margaret River Margaret River Chenin shine. 5+ $30 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc Semillon Blanc 2010 HHH Very flavoursome style2009 HHH Earthy/nutty bouquet and some smelling of lemons and muskSubtle lemon character to the nice phenolics that work with sticks and tasting of sweetnose and some interesting the fruit. Pleasant wine. $17 lemons. 5+ $19.50Asian spice characters on thesoft palate. $17 Knee Deep Margaret River Willoughby Park DenmarkBrown Hill Lakeview Chenin Blanc 2010 HHH Riesling 2010 HHHMargaret River Sauvignon Very aromatic tropical nose Very lifted, musky, floral bouquetBlanc Semillon 2010 HHH and soft, clean palate with and loads of broad, ripe flavoursFive spices and soy sauce-like some residual sugar. Easy with crisp acidity. 1-2 $24aromas and lively, long, fresh drinking. $22 Capel Vale Whisperingand youthful palate with tight Hill Mount Barker Riesling Ferngrove Cossackacidity. $17 RIESLING 2010 HHHHH Frankland River RieslingRosabrook Margaret River Real classic with plenty of 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc Semillon 15 TASTED ageing potential. Very persistent Clean, sharp citrus aromas and2010 HHH 10 AWARDED floral/lime blossom aromas with tight, fresh, high-acid palate - veryDiced pear-like characters on both excellent punch of fruit intensity refreshing. 3-5 $22.99nose and palate. Full and long and Strong class. These wines on the palate, balanced by crispoffers good drinking. $17 tended to drier, mineral styles acidity. Put it away for five years Truffle Hill Reserve from the cooler regions of WA. or more. $32.95 Series Pemberton Riesling Overall excellent ageing potential. 2010 HHH “A touch of sugar is okay if it’s in Trevelen Farm Excellent length of piercing balance,” noted one judge. Great Southern Riesling grapefruit/lime fruit; slight yeasty 2002 HHHH1/2 overtones. Will age beautifully - Still amazingly fresh and 10 years plus! $21.60 offering very good drinking. Lovely toasty honeyed bottle- aged characters starting to cover the fruit with soft, rich aromatics. Still has plenty of acidity left. 1-2 $35JUDGES Peter Bradbeer Simon Keall Charlotte Newton Liquor retailer of 20 Winemaker for Lecturer in sensory evaluation years plus. Former wine Redgate Wines. Has & wine production at educator and judge at the worked extensively at Curtin University. Formerly Mt Barker wine show WA wineries, including winemaker for Devil’s Lair and consults to various Rosabrook, Hayshed winery. Previously also at Australian wine companies. Hill and Killerby. Coldstream Hills (Yarra Valley) Associate judge at Mt with vintages in Chablis, Barker, Margaret River Languedoc and Canterbury and Sheraton Perth (NZ). Associate judge at the wine shows. Margaret River wine show.110 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingVIOGNIER/ Watershed SensesVERDELHO Margaret River Viognier 2009 HHH10 TASTED Crisp style but with some generosity of ginger/apricot fruit8 AWARDED flavour - very drinkable. $24.95Viognier was a strong class SEMILLON Tassell Park Wineswith one producer dominating. & BLENDS Private Bin Margaret RiverA good variety if handled well. Semillon Sauvignon BlancVerdelho is also a good drinking 27 TASTED 2010 HHHHvariety that goes particularly 16 AWARDED Smells like a vanilla custard with awell with Asian food. nice dash of lime. Nicely textured Some very good wines in palate with intense fruit flavours Millbrook Winery the blends but the judges and subtle oaky nuances. $28 Viognier 2009 HHHH expected more from the Fraser Gallop Estate Big, up-front varietal that is dominant semillon character, Margaret River full, ripe and very rich, with although semillon does add Semillon Sauvignon a lovely unctuous, visceral body to the wine. The straight Blanc 2010 HHHH texture and exhibiting some semillons were a very strong Earthy bouquet with a slight alcohol heat. $21.95 and consistent group; one toasty note, and a full-flavoured wine shows how well this and very lively fruit palate variety ages. showing loads of character. $22Capel Vale Debut Millbrook Winery Fraser Gallop EstateWestern Australia Limited Release Perth Parterre Margaret RiverVerdelho 2010 HHHH1/2 Hills Viognier 2009 HHHH Semillon Sauvignon BlancVery good wine that shows Real persistence and intensity 2010 HHHHthe best aspects of the variety of warm, musky apricot Very lifted fragrances of peaches- it’s punchy and flavoursome and ripe peach varietal fruit. and nectarines, with a fresh andand smelling and tasting like Lovely visceral mouthfeel with lively palate showing subtle,rockmelon and ripe peaches. balancing phenolics. $42 crusty-bread nuances wrappedSome great acidity. $17.95 in the sweet fruit flavours. $35Western Range Wines Sittella Western Australia Barton Jones The BrilliantJulimar Western Australia Verdelho 2010 HHH1/2 Cut GeographeVerdelho 2010 HHHH Tight, well-crafted wine with Semillon SauvignonWell-made, tart, tight varietal good varietal fruit persistence, Blanc 2009 HHHHwith bright, lifted citrus and fresh, crisp acidity and some Nicely developing savoury/honeysuckle aromas and a well-matched phenolics. $18.50 earthy nose and lively palatelong, fine and flavoursome Sandalford Estate Reserve with excellent flavour lengthcitrus palate. $23.50 Margaret River Verdelho and balance. Good food wine 2010 HHH1/2 for drinking soon. $21 Bright, clean, well-made wine Alkoomi Wandoo Brookland Valley with pretty, perfumed bouquet Frankland River Semillon Verse 1 Margaret River and very crunchy, mineral-like 2005 HHHHH Semillon Sauvignon Blanc palate with tight structure. $22.95 Beautifully aged nose smells 2010 HHHH of butterscotch and creme Capsicum and mown hay caramel. Plenty of character on aromas lift off the nose. Vibrant the palate - wonderful flavour palate shows good varietal fruit intensity underscored with a nicely married to a fine acid line of crisp citrus acid. Ageing backbone. $20.99 very well. $34.76 JUDGES Larry Jorgensen Alan Dineen Kim Horton Sales and Marketing Wine retailer and Senior winemaker for Manager for Celestial owner of Chateau Ferngrove for the past Bay Wines. Former Guildford. An educator three years. Previously Cellar Door Manager at in wine marketing with winemaker at Leeuwin Lamont’s Winery and extensive senior wine Estate. Charles Sturt currently also a lecturer show judging experience degree in Oenology. Judge in Wine Appreciation around Western at the Western Australian for the Wine Industry Australia, involving 30 wine show and associate Association of WA. national shows. at Perth wine show. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 111

BEST OF THE WESTWills Domain Margaret Fermoy Estate Margaret Somerset Hill Great Forester EstateRiver Semillon 2009 HHHH River Semillon 2010 HHH Southern Unwooded Margaret RiverSavoury meaty/mushroomy Very approachable wine with Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHbouquet and soft, well-balanced rich, ripe, honeydew melon fruit Full-flavoured, cool-climate Minerally bouquet - quite slate-and slightly developed palate balanced by lively acidity. $25 wine - very fresh, with lovely like - and a full, rich palate, notwith lovely mouthfeel and fresh creamy texture and excellent intense but offering very goodlemony acidity. $25 Somerset Hill citrus and pear-like varietal fruit. potential. $30Bunker Bay Wines Bunkers Great Southern Semillon Nice nutty character. $19 Goose ChaseLefthanders Margaret 2010 HHH Houghton Margaret River Margaret RiverRiver Semillon Sauvignon Interesting combo of asparagus, Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHBlanc 2010 HHH1/2 nettle and lantana aromas with a Flinty/meaty/tobacco aromas Sweaty passionfruit nose withPungent and grassy on the delicate and elegant palate. $21 with a light lemon touch. Great herbal notes. Some residualnose and fleshy and juicy in palate structure with good fruit sweetness on a pungentthe mouth. Great varietal fruit. Redgate OFS Margaret and some residual sugar with palate. $15Good wine. $20 River Semillon 2010 HHH nice balance of oak. $25 Merum Estate PembertonCelestial Bay Margaret Fresh-mown-grass nose with Chardonnay 2010 HHHRiver Semillon Sauvignon hints of lemon and honey. Willoughby Park Subdued floral aromas with aBlanc 2010 HHH Long, fine, elegant palate. $25 Chardonnay 2010 HHHH musky note. Firm, grippy palateDark, sweaty nose dominated by Fuller, complex style; quite with a yeasty influence. $25the sauvignon, with fruit richness CHARDONNAY savoury. Lemon freshness Fermoy Estateand subtle oak on the palate. $20 2010 and some wood and toasty Margaret RiverThe Lake House Premium characters with an interesting Chardonnay 2010 HHHBlock Selection Denmark 21 TASTED wild yeast-like element. $30 A little green and tart on the nose,Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 16 AWARDED Celestial Bay with a nice fruit palate showing2010 HHH Margaret River some ‘sensible’ oak. $25Savoury, meaty aromas and a Some discussion here among Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Truffle Hill Reserve Seriessweet fruit palate with light and the judges about heavily oaked Sweaty tropical nose and light Pemberton Chardonnaylively acidity. $25 and tight, minerally styles. Very fruit palate with a phenolic 2010 HHHFlametree Margaret River solid and consistent group of texture, a touch of residual sugar Rather hot, oaky style with niceSemillon Sauvignon Blanc young wines released for early and some good acidity. $20 integration of lemon/citrus and2010 HHH drinking, with the overall trend Mandalay Road Geographe stone-fruit characters. $23.40Young and simple wine - bright to using less oak. Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Watershed Shadesand clean, with some gooseberry Eminently drinkable wine Margaret River Unoakedfruit characters. $22 Brookland Valley smelling pear and lemon-like, Chardonnay 2010 HHHForester Estate Margaret Margaret River with lovely flavoursome, Subdued, developing aromasRiver Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay 2010 HHHHH savoury palate and an oaky with touches of melon andBlanc 2010 HHH More of a savoury style, with finish. $15.99 cashews. Good palate lengthDelicate, steely citrus nose and a clean, lifted combination of Sandalford Prendiville and structure $16.95light fruit palate with hints of citrus and oak aromas and Reserve Margaret River Sandalford Elementripeness and firm acid finish. $20 good weight and intensity of Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Margaret RiverCapel Vale Regional grapefruit and nectarine flavours Full, rich, oak-driven style with Chardonnay 2010 HHHSeries Pemberton with a long, oaky finish. $38 an abundance of everything! Tropical aromas with a slightSemillon Sauvignon Blanc Gorgeous nose and super-clean funky edge, and a firm, clean2010 HHH Fraser Gallop Estate palate with good acidity. $59.95 palate with herbal notes. $13.95Soft, simple, fruit-driven wine Margaret River Paul Conti Medici Ridgewith herbal aromas and a tight Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Western Australiaand grassy palate. $24.95 Very good wine with lovely Chardonnay 2010 HHH lifted floral and tobacco-like Tight, savoury aromas with a aromas. Obvious fragrant oak citrus edge and a fresh, clean on a long, citrusy palate that palate with good intensity of has great flavour intensity. $30 citrus fruit. $20JUDGES Clifford Royle Paul Boulden Michael Kerrigan Senior winemaker Flametree Chief winemaker for Winemaker/owner for Hay Wines. Formerly winemaker Sandalford Wines for the Shed Hill Wines. Formerly for Voyager Estate for the past seven years. Formerly winemaker with Howard past five years. Winestate’s with Yalumba, Stoniers Park wines. Senior show Winemaker of the Year and Tarrawarra. Also judge at the Perth and 2002. Has completed the vintaged in Bordeaux and Mt Barker wine shows, Advanced Wine Assessment Spain. Judge at Adelaide plus judge at Cowra and Course (AWRI). Associate wine show and Cowra. other regional shows. judge for Perth and Mount Barker wine shows.112 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingCHARDONNAY200940 TASTED23 AWARDEDStrong class from a good Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnayvintage. “These are more Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Scomplete and finished wineswith inherent complexities,” said Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shone judge. “A few had a touch Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazmore residual sweetness thanrequired,” suggested another. Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ChardonCnHAaRyDONNCAYabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shira Streicker Ironstone Block Old Vine Margaret River Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shira Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shira Intriguing, complex, mealy/ Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonna citrus bouquet. Great palate Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot CSHhIaRArZdonnay Shiraz has everything going for it. It’s Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonn long and brimming over with ChardonnayBlanc Semillon Shiraz juicy grapefruit characters well Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay integrated with the oak. $35 CABERNET MERLOTMillbrook Winery Limited Upper Reach ReserveRelease Western Australia Swan Valley Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay SChardonnay 2009 HHHHH 2009 HHHH Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShAnother intense and complex Smells of lemons and barleychardonnay exhibiting power and sugar and tastes of grilled nuts Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazrichness with very good depth of and grapefruit with a touch Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnayvarietal fruit aromas and flavours, of residual sugar. Long andall nicely underscored by some intense style of wine. $28 ChardonnayBlanc Semillon Shirazgreat cashew-like oak. $42 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnayWindows Estate Laurance WinesMargaret River Margaret River Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShiraChardonnay 2009 HHHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazExcellent intense and complex Old-school style showingexample of a chardonnay that’s richness and texture. Lovely Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazloaded with beautiful grapefruit varietal fruit well balanced by Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Sand lemon-like varietal fruit some sweet malo and toasty Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazseamlessly integrated with some oak characters. $42 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazincredible nutty toasty oak. $35 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz Devil’s Lair Margaret River Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Lovely cool-climate characters Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz of grapefruit, limes and Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay spices, well integrated with cashew oak and malo-related ChardonnayBlanc Semillon Shiraz undertones. 3-5 $45 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Preveli Margaret River Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shira Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz Peachy/lime fruit aromas seamlessly integrated with toasty Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz oak characters. Tangy palate. Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay S Vibrant & elegant with persistent flavours. 3-5 $23.95 JUDGESCourtney Treacher John Durham Asia Wine Connection (Ningbo) Trade CO LTDAssistant winemaker for Senior winemaker for 201/2, International Development BuildingHoughton and upcoming Plantagenet Wines.young star! Previously Previously winemaker Ningbo Free Trade Zone Eastern District, Zhejiangvintaged at Redgate Wines for Cape Mentelle for Telephone: 86 574 86816721in Margaret River and 21 years. Has vintagedTamburlaine in the Hunter. in Bordeaux at Chateau www.wisewine.com.auAssociate judge at the Latour. Has consultedSwan Valley wine show. for Moss Wood & Vasse 75216 acorndesign.com.au Felix wineries in WA. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 113

BEST OF THE WESTRedgate Margaret River Sittella Reserve Vasse Felix Heytesbury Palmer Margaret RiverChardonnay 2009 HHHH Margaret River Margaret River Chardonnay Chardonnay 2008 HHHDeveloped melon and cashew Chardonnay 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Fantastic stone-fruit charactersaromas and a palate that has a Nicely balanced fruity aromas Bright buttery peach nose and lovely oak to match.linear structure, with good lees and flavours - lots of lemon, with supportive cashew-like Starting to develop and still hascharacters giving interest and melon and peach with a touch oak and some malo elements. years ahead of it. $27.50texture. $35 of sugar. $29 Full flavoured complex palateSinglefile Estate that is a delightful creamy Leeuwin Estate ArtReserve Great Southern Watershed Awakening blend of figs, melons, malt, Series Margaret RiverChardonnay 2009 HHHH Single Vineyard citrus and cashews. $55 Chardonnay 2007 HHHNose a melange of melons, Margaret River Cool-climate pome fruit andpeaches and lemons, while the Chardonnay 2009 HHH Voyager Estate nutty aromas. Quite hot inpalate is brimming over with Grapefruit nose with resinous Margaret River Chardonnay the mouth, with peach skingood clean flavours edged with oak, and long, tight, minerally 2008 HHHH1/2 flavours. $80 CDwild yeast characters. $44.95 palate - clean and fresh. $44.95 Lovely complete and complexSandalford Prendiville wine developing richness Forest Hill VineyardReserve Margaret River Houghton Margaret River and depth. Great lemon, pear Block 8 Margaret RiverChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2009 HHH and grilled nut combination Chardonnay 2008 HHHRestrained, slightly funky, Slightly pungent, cool-climate of aromas, and a long, well- Developed, oaky winepeachy aromas and beautiful fruit characters on the nose, and balanced, intensely flavoured with nice cool-climate fruitpalate full of ripe fruit and a rich, tropical palate. $17.99 palate. 5+ $42 characters underneath andexcellent oak with savoury crisp acidity. $45notes. $59.95 3 Drops Mount Barker Plantagenet GreatWarner Glen Estate Chardonnay 2009 HHH Southern Chardonnay Driftwood Margaret RiverMargaret River Leesy lemon aromas and a 2008 HHHH Chardonnay 2008 HHHChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 linear, citrus palate that’s fresh Slightly funky, old-school style Bold and toasty nose andWeighty, complex style with and long. $24 of wine. “My big fat Greek very oaky palate. “A pleasantcool-climate fruit characters wedding” was how one judge older style,” remarked oneof lemon and grapefruit with Flametree Margaret River summed up this big, bold judge. $19.90balancing oak. $28 Chardonnay 2009 HHH chardonnay. $28Clairault Estate Very forward for a 2009. ROSEMargaret River Grapefruit aromas, with oak a Deep Woods EstateChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 touch brazen, and mouthfilling Reserve Margaret River 11 TASTEDBig, intense style. Crisp and lemon flavours. $28 Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 8 AWARDEDcitrusy on the nose, with Attractive complexity of peach/excellent mouthfilling grapefruit Western Range Wines melon varietal fruit, some barrel Good class of drinkable winesand tobacco flavours. $37 Perth Hills Chardonnay ferment and oak/lees characters with nice freshness of fruitKalgan River Great 2009 HHH with tight acidity. $45 and ranging from dry, savourySouthern Chardonnay Light pineapple/citrus nose, and styles to fuller, juicier ones.2009 HHH similar palate with underlying Thompson EstateGood varietal fruit with subtle toasty/charry oak flavours. $30 Margaret River Saracen Estate Margaretoak in support, a touch of Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 River Rosé 2010 HHH1/2residual sugar and some Lost Lake Barrel Selection Real food wine - loads of Pale magenta wine with goodcomplexity. $25 Pemberton Chardonnay texture and a lovely mouthful depth and persistence ofMoombaki Great Southern 2009 HHH of citrus flavours with subtle aromatic fruit - lots of berryChardonnay 2009 HHH Melony nose with interesting hints of toasty oak. $38 character and tight acidity. $20Developed tropical bouquet cool-climate, cucumber-like Howard Park Westernwith matchstick-like notes. undertones, and a firm, oaky Australia Chardonnay Skuttlebutt MargaretPalate in the riper spectrum, palate. $35 2008 HHH River Shiraz Merlot Roséa touch sweet. $29 Solid, old-style chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2Capel Vale Regional CHARDONNAY that’s rich and oily but not hot. Big, flavoursome style - fresh,Series Pemberton 2008 & OLDER Very oaky - very tasty! $40 bright, long and balanced,Chardonnay 2009 HHH with some interesting texturalComplexity of smoky/grapefruit 13 TASTED notes. $19aromas. Interesting palate with 10 AWARDEDretained freshness and oak St Aidan Cassie Geographedominance. $24.95 Very consistent class showing Rosé 2010 HHH1/2Wills Domain good ageing potential. Perfumed nose with lovelyMargaret River “Consumers can choose any traces of rose petals. SolidChardonnay 2009 HHH of these with confidence,” palate with some residual sugarDelicate citrus/pear aromas said one judge. “A few of and nice balancing acid. $19with moderate intensity. these showed buttery, well-Fresh, slightly sweet palate worked winemaking attention.”with creamy flavours. $45 These are ready to enjoy now!114 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

Oakover Wines Swan Lost Lake Barrel regional tastingValley Rosé 2010 HHH Selection PembertonMore dry red in character, Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Auctionwith strawberries and plums on Good earthy varietal fruit withthe nose and a firm, red plum/ some leathery notes and nice World’sberry palate. $15 spicy touches. Medium-length best wineKiss Chasey Margaret palate has warming alcohol andRiver Rosé 2010 HHH stalky tannins. $35 pricesBright, fresh, fruit-driven wine - The Lake House Denmarklots of strawberries and plums. Pinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Do you want the real wineA tad tart and hot. $15 Plum fruit and subtle oak price story? Do you want aromas. Medium-weight palate; nice creamy texture, loads of to check trends? fresh fruit and ripe tannins. $45 Sterling Wine Auctions &Greedy Sheep Margaret Exchange has the world’sRiver Rosé 2010 HHH best Wine Auction saleMagenta and deep pink, withlovely fresh fruit flavours carried price database.by well-matched acidity. $18 Every bottle sold overBarwick Wines Crush WA Silkwood Pemberton the past ten years,Rosé 2010 HHH Pinot Noir 2006 HHHInteresting style - quite Nice toasty/earthy/meaty nose perfectly searchable anddifferent, with lots of flavour and attractive bacon-like flavours cross referenced.and good minerality. $10.99 edged with varietal fruit. $18 Harewood Estate Reserve And it’s Free! Just goAbbey Creek Porongurups Great Southern Pinot Noir to the Web site. SterlingRosé 2010 HHH 2009 HHH Wine Auctions, specialistsTight but lively style in the Toasty bacon elements since 1992, offering fullberry flavour spectrum, with blended with spicy blacka nice spicy element. $20 varietal fruit and nice oak. $45 Live Online E-trading to clients all over thePINOT NOIR world and Old Fashioned12 TASTED personal service.5 AWARDED FREE AuctionSome well-made wines here - Wignalls Great Southern Catalogues and FREEdrinkable and fresh with varietal Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Bidder Registration.fruit - while others struggled Nice wine - opens up wellwith the variety. with youthful, spicy berry fruit, Phone Lynton for a chat some toastiness and warming on 08 9388 9955 alcohol. $31 or 0418 949 837, or log on www.sterlingwine.com.au STERLING Wine Auctions & Exchange May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 115

BEST OF THE WESTOTHER RED Driftwood Margaret River Flametree Margaret River Swings and RoundaboutsVARIETALS Petit Verdot 2007 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River& BLENDS Dark berry, toasty oak and Merlot 2009 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon spicy aromas. Big, chunky Straightforward, long and juicy Merlot 2009 HHHH16 TASTED palate, nice ripe fruit and wine with nice varietal fruit Oak-driven style with red fruits8 AWARDED retained freshness. $23.90 characters of cherries and overwhelmed for the moment raspberries showing a slight but showing lots of potential.Another solid winemaking effort Forester Estate Margaret green edge and laced with Tannins quite grippy andfrom a wide range of varieties. River Alicante 2009 HHH firm, supple tannins. Has quite chalky; some alcohol heat. $19 Big, powerful style with lifted, an angular finish. $28G.A. Hannett Premium floral nose and tannic palateReserve Margaret River with good fruit depth. $35Malbec 2009 HHHHBig, but well-balanced, wine Merops Ornatus Margaretwith a fresh and fragrant River Red 2009 HHHviolet/berry bouquet and nice Light, lean, clean and brightsavoury, toasty oak palate with wine with raisined fruit andgood berry fruit intensity. $50 restrained oak. $29.95Wills Domain Reserve MERLOTBitza Margaret RiverMerlot Petit Verdot 7 TASTEDMalbec Cabernet 2 AWARDEDSauvignon Cabernet Franc2010 HHH1/2 A struggle with thisPretty wine with spicy red fruit variety - consumers need to bebouquet showing a hint of very selective.pepper and harmonious sweetblueberry/soft tannin palate. $45 Voyager Estate Girt by Sea Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Savoury aromas with some plums and cherries, and flavours of olives and chocolate with a leathery touch. $24Capel Vale Cellar Fermoy Estate Margaret Deep Woods Ebony Baldivis EstateExclusive Geographe Petit River Merlot 2009 HHHH Margaret River Frankland Margaret RiverVerdot 2008 HHH1/2 Big wine with good fruit depth Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonBig, alcoholic wine. Christmas and structure. Smells and Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Merlot 2009 HHH1/2cake-like aromas and flavours tastes of leafy blackberries, Classic of this blend, with Punchy oak, leather, mulberrieswith five spice notes. Quite dry with silky-smooth tannins on dense mulberry and chocolate and chocolate aromas and long,and with a good structure. $26.95 the palate. $35 aromas and a thread of vanilla- flavoursome, velvety palateTassell Park Private Bin like characters. Voluptuous that mirrors the nose. $15Margaret River Petit Ferngrove Frankland River palate with lovely flavours Greedy Sheep MargaretVerdot 2008 HHH Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 of Black Forest cake and River Cabernet SauvignonEarthy/herbaceous nose and Perfumed blackberry bouquet Cherry Ripe. $14.95 Merlot 2009 HHHearthy/chocolaty palate showing with some savoury notes. Fraser Gallop Estate Clean, well-made wine that’ssmoky/floral nuances. $38 Good spicy/charry palate Margaret River Cabernet brightly fruited and evolvesPaul Conti Tuart Vineyard that has depth, weight and Merlot 2009 HHHH well with some air. $20Western Australia structure. $19.99 Bright, easy-drinking style with Brookland Valley MargaretTempranillo 2010 HHH lovely bright cassis fruit and River Cabernet SauvignonEarthy, dark berry and spice CABERNET balancing oak with tannins - Merlot 2009 HHHaromas, with similar characters BLENDS 2009 “They creep up on you,” A wine with ripe, slightly jammyechoed on the well-structured said one judge. $22 fruit, pencil shavings oak andpalate. $16 18 TASTED firm, grippy tannins. $45 9 AWARDED Sandalford Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Mixed bag of both green fruit Merlot 2009 HHH and overripe wines, with some Sweet, perfumed nose and over-oaking. However, it was creamy-smooth palate with an excellent result, with the a tarry note and powdery better-quality wines in the group tannins. $18.99 showing how it can be done.116 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingCABERNETBLENDS2008 & OLDER21 TASTED7 AWARDEDVery disappointing group.Many of the wines were at thein-between stage of freshnessand aged complexity. A numberwere stewed and overripe withearthy nuances, while somewere overly green in flavour.Balance is the key!Moombaki Great Southern Tassell Park MargaretCabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Franc Malbec Merlot 2008 HHH1/22008 HHHH Cherry coulis and chocolate-likeTarry/charry aromas with a characters with bright blueberrybrambly lift and chocolate fruit. Has elegance, poise andundertones. Sweet prune power. $23flavours on a palate with a tannicgrip. Developing nicely. $29 Preveli Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2009 HHH Nice combo of the varietal fruit. With subtle use of oak. It’s juicy, flavoursome and chocolaty. $25.95 Watershed Senses Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 HHH Elegant, well-made wine - smells and tastes of Cherry Ripe with a herbal edge. $24.95Thompson Estate Andrea Voyager Estate MargaretReserve Margaret River River Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005 HHHMerlot 2007 HHHH Earthy, oak-driven style with aLovely silky-smooth wine that’s chalky, tannic grip and chocolatya concoction of plums, black raisined characters. $60olives and crushed blackberriessitting in a solid oak/acid CABERNETframework. $38 SAUVIGNON 2009Wills Domain MargaretRiver Cabernet Sauvignon 18 TASTEDMerlot 2008 HHH1/2 12 AWARDEDHuge oak influence here, withintense, juicy, sweet mulberry Solid class with some nicefruit and chunky tannins. Opens examples of medium-weightup nicely with some air. $27.50 wines with flavour and definition. “These wines will age beautifully and winemakers have handled these really well,” commented one judge. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 117

BEST OF THE WESTSandalford Merops Margaret RiverPrendiville Reserve Cabernet SauvignonMargaret River Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2Sauvignon 2009 HHHH “A big boys’ style,” suggestedNicely evolved dark red wine one judge of its dense, chocolaty/with an abundance of lovely cherry characters and powerfulsweet, fleshy fruit showing tannins. “An extrovert!” $29.95some green nuances and just a Fraser Gallop Estatehint of mint. $90 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Lovely clean cabernet fruit reminiscent of sweet brambles with some menthol notes. Definitely one to put away. $37 Houghton Margaret Wise Lot 80 Margaret Ringbolt Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH Inky tarry/prune-like bouquet Subdued herbal/spicy nose Fine cassis fruit bouquet with with an earthy, perfumed but a lush, full palate. Shows licorice and spice. “Yummy palate. $17.99 promise; just needs time. $28 flavours,” declared one judge. Tastes of plums and berriesLost Lake Beach Head by Credaro CABERNET with chalky tannins. $24.95Pemberton Cabernet Margaret River Cabernet SAUVIGNON 2008 Ferngrove MajesticSauvignon 2009 HHHH Sauvignon 2009 HHH Frankland River CabernetSilky-smooth, seamlessly Big, dark cabernet with lush, 27 TASTED Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2balanced cabernet with ripe raspberry fruit, loads of oak 12 AWARDED Lovely perfumed nose with amassive hit of sweet dark fruit and drying tannins. $17 bright berry lift. Palate long,characters and well-matched Paul Conti Tuarts Vineyard The panel was surprised by the fresh and complex, with aamount of oak. $35 Western Australia Cabernet number of green fruit wines warming finish. $28.99Windance Reserve Sauvignon 2009 HHH from this warmer year. “This Barwick Estates MargaretMargaret River Cabernet Black cherries and coffee beans may be site-specific and difficult River Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon 2009 HHHH on the nose; huge oak influence to generalise about,” said one 2008 HHH1/2Elegant, well-structured wine on the green-edged palate. $18 judge. The better wines showed Mocha and chocolate aromaswith hints of violets and Hay Shed Hill Margaret the character, structure and with some nice blueberry andmenthol on the nose. Very River Cabernet Sauvignon elegance for which WA wines blackberry cabernet flavours -pretty palate overflowing with 2009 HHH are renowned. lovely oak balance. $15bright varietal flavours. $40 Supple, lively wine with depth Tassell Park MargaretBarwick Estates Margaret and structure and nice tarry/ Evans and Tate Redbrook River Cabernet SauvignonRiver Cabernet Sauvignon chocolaty characters on nose Margaret River Cabernet 2008 HHH2009 HHHH and palate. $25 Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 Smells like crushed berries andElegant, silky cabernet with Knee Deep Sue’s Margaret Dark red colour with cherry has a lightweight palate full ofaromas and flavours building River Cabernet Sauvignon hues and intense, brooding, bright fruit, tarry oak and strongwith some air. There’s plum 2009 HHH tarry aromas with a hint of tannins. $28and black cherry fruit integrated Sweet, curranty bouquet with mint. Bright, mid-weight, fruit- Devil’s Lair Margaretwell with the oak. $19.99 crushed ant elements, and driven palate with edgy tannins. River Cabernet Sauvignon a nicely evolving, chocolaty One for the cellar. $37.99 2008 HHH palate. $28 Spearmint and black fruits on Wills Domain Reserve the nose, and a long, elegant STAR RATINGS  Margaret River Cabernet palate with bright, focused fruit Sauvignon Merlot Petit flavours. $65Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Verdot Malbec Cabernet Knee Deep Kelsea’sexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Franc 2008 HHHH Margaret River CabernetAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Inky, oak-driven nose with lots Sauvignon 2008 HHHprofessionals and are compared in peer of blackberry fruit underneath Elegant, sweet cabernet withclasses by three judges. and some leafy elements. a touch of tomato leaf on theCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Sweet and fleshy in the mouth, nose and a well-defined flavoura major mail-order business. with earthy notes. $45 profile. $45CD Cellar door price. Saracen Estates ReserveCDO Cellar door only. Margaret River CabernetSO Sold out. Sauvignon 2008 HHH$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Sweet herbal aromas with a dash of caramel. Fleshy, fruity Contact information pg 160. and well balanced palate. $70 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).118 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingWoody Nook Moss Wood Margaret LION MILLGallagher’s Choice River Cabernet Sauvignon VINEYARDSMargaret River Cabernet 2007 HHHHSauvignon 2008 HHH Intense, chocolaty nose with a BoutiqueInteresting, highly sprinkling of spices and some wine producer.evolved cabernet with nice raspberry notes. Lush palatecomplexity and a solid core has long, complex flavours and Visit ourof tannins. $34.95 an earthy texture. $N/A cellar door or buy onlineHarewood Estate GreatSouthern Cabernet www.lionmillvineyards.comSauvignon 2008 HHH 700 Lion Street, Mount HelenaClassic style with a bright, sweet,mulberry and blackberry core and Western Australiacedary oak support. $29.50 0428 316 271Palmer MargaretRiver Cabernet Sauvignon2008 HHHTightly focused wine withplum, red berry, mocha andlicorice characters. $23.50CABERNET Thompson EstateSAUVIGNON Margaret River Cabernet2007 & OLDER Sauvignon 2007 HHH1/2 Big, broad wine with great8 TASTED structure and balance and well-5 AWARDED defined, developed, chocolaty mulberry/cassis fruit. $38Small group, with somenice wines that are ageing Driftwoodgracefully. Drink now or later! Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH Light raspberry cordial-like aromas and a bright, fleshy palate with plenty of grip. $23.90 Western Range Wines Julimar Chittering Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH Smells of sarsaparilla with a leathery note. Nice red fruits with a greenish touch on the palate. $23.50 SHIRAZ BLENDS 12 TASTED 6 AWARDEDPalandri Vita Novus Devil’s Lair DanceMargaret River Cabernet with the Devil MargaretSauvignon 2007 HHHH River Shiraz TempranilloBig style with loads of 2009 HHHH1/2extracted fruit and a silky- Rich, ripe robust wine withsmooth palate dense with nose showing ripe fruit,flavour. Fine-grained tannins quality oak and a slight smokyand some alcohol heat. $35 element. Palate full of sweet fruit flavours and lovely velvety- smooth tannins. Offers easy drinking. $24.99 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 119

BEST OF THE WEST Rosabrook Single Sittella Winery Swan Vineyard Estate Margaret Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH River Shiraz 2009 HHHH Good wine, nice colour and Medium-bodied shiraz showing some lovely confectionery a lovely elegant structure and sweet varietal fruit. $22 good length of ripe, blackberry- Windance Reserve like varietal fruit supported by Margaret River Shiraz soft tannins. $28 2009 HHH Big, slightly savoury style. Some Christmas cake fruit characters and nice use of oak. $40Barking Owl Shiraz Beach Head By Credoro Fermoy Estate Margaret Saracen Estate MargaretViognier 2009 HHHH1/2 Margaret River Shiraz River Shiraz 2009 HHHH River Shiraz 2009 HHHBeautiful wine - great colour and 2009 HHHHH Very good, well put together, Spicy/herbal bouquet and ripelovely rich, ripe, sweet blackberry Big, dark and very intense wine solid style of shiraz brimming and spicy fruit flavours with aaromas with a spicy edge. Palate with some lovely old vine fruit over with intense dark berry hint of herbs. $35offers a big mouthful of black obvious, exhibiting tones of fruits and underscored by Upper Reach Winesjube flavours and excellent tannin blackberry and spice. Lovely, lovely soft tannins. $25 Reserve Swan Valleystructure. $17.95 lightly spicy palate with good Shiraz 2009 HHH weight of varietal fruit. $17 Baldivis Estate Frankland Massive wine showingMatilda’s Estate Voyager Estate Margaret River Shiraz 2009 HHHH impressive sweet varietalDenmark Shiraz Cabernet River Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Tight, bright and very attractive fruit and plenty of boot polish2009 HHHH Medium-bodied, cool-climate wine with lovely prominence of characters. $32Ripe, straightforward and very style. “At last, a really lovely peppery/spicy elements liftingeasy drinking style with simple shiraz,” declared one judge. off the simple confectionery SHIRAZ 2008dark berry fruit aromas and bright Black and brooding on the nose fruit. Well made. $15and spicy dark berry flavours. $18 with a perfumed lift. Soft and Xabregas Mount Barker 29 TASTED gentle in the mouth, with loads Shiraz 2009 HHHH 16 AWARDEDKalgan River Great of everything! $38 Heady wine; deep, dense colour The best wines here showedSouthern Shiraz Viognier Greedy Sheep Margaret and very ripe, almost raisined, vibrancy and good fruit2008 HHH River Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 aromas with a dash of ground expression, while othersInteresting soy, herbal and Very good shiraz with excellent pepper. Inky concentration of were verging on tired.black pepper aromas. Strong depth of varietal fruit and a nice flavours. $17.99 Search and enjoy!palate - lots of spice with touch of quality oak. Perfect Pepperwood Estatesavoury nuances. $35 balance and incredible flavour Premium Capel Shiraz Palmer Margaret River length that lingers long after 2009 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHHHHay Shed Hill Margaret the wine has gone. $20 Good commercial style: short “A perfect shiraz!” accordingRiver Shiraz Tempranillo and simple, with warm, spicy to one judge. It’s super-smart,2009 HHH Paul Conti Mariginiup berry fruits coming through. $19 very well made, still veryPowerful yet elegant style. Western Australia Shiraz Sandalford Margaret River young, very stylish and withVery good, with simple, 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH everything in balance, and theconfectionery-like fruit. $20 Massive, warm-climate crowd Leathery/herbal nose, with the dark violet-like fruit shows just pleaser of a shiraz. “Lots of leather notes echoed on the a hint of licorice. $23.50Harewood Estate Great money spent here on some warm, spicy palate. $18.99Southern Shiraz Cabernet top-quality fruit and oak,”2008 HHH observed one judge. $28Solid, medium-weight winewith simple, fruity aromasand flavours with some dustyelements. $19.50SHIRAZ 200927 TASTED14 AWARDEDFew faulty wines here, but thejudges were searching for thosethat were a cut above the rest.The ‘09s were a mix betweenthe very good and the pedestrian- not up to the standard of the‘07 and ‘08 vintages.120 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tasting Kalgan River Ciprian Great Southern Shiraz 2008 HHH Big, sweet, jammy fruit style of shiraz - great colour and a nice, spicy finish. $45 Tassell Park Wines Margaret River Shiraz 2008 HHH Attractive wine - lovely balance between sweet, ripe fruit, smoky oak and gentle tannins. $25Howard Park Leston The Lake HouseMargaret River Shiraz Frankland Denmark2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHRipe, dark berry bouquet with Beautiful, brooding wine; richslightly raisined characters, plum fruit in perfect balance withand a solid, savoury palate well-judged use of oak. $45with lovely sweet varietalfruit and long, soft and subtle Ferngrove Frankland Rivertannin structure. $40 Shiraz 2008 HHHWestern Range Limited Solid, simple, fleshy wine withRelease Chittering Perth ripe, spicy fruit and warmingHills Shiraz 2008 HHHH alcohol. $19.99Nice ripe style of shiraz withsome very good dark berry fruit Leeuwin Estate Art Seriesand very well managed oak to Margaret River Shirazsupport it. Palate has plenty of 2008 HHHweight and body. $30 Good commercial styleMoombaki Great Southern with lovely, lifted, perfumedShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 fruit, soft tannins and subtleStill a tight and youthful wine, oak. $36.50 CDwith massive ripe, jubeyvarietal fruit, nice tannins and Knee Deep Wines Hayley’sa long, lingering finish. $29 Reserve Margaret RiverTrevelen Farm Reserve Shiraz 2008 HHHFrankland River Shiraz Sweet, simple plum fruit2008 HHH1/2 aromas and flavours offering“A classic WA shiraz,” suggested easy drinking. $45one judge. Great style. The fruit issweet without being jammy and Redgate Margaret Riverthe oak is well handled. $25 Shiraz 2008 HHHDeep Woods Estate Block Brooding, violet-like fruit7 Margaret River Shiraz bouquet and gorgeous palate2008 HHH intense with dark jubey fruitGood, clean, medium-weight and oak. $30commercial style full of stewedfleshy fruit. Soft on the finish. $32 Capel ValePlantaganet Mount Barker Whispering Hill SingleShiraz 2008 HHH Vineyard Series MountHerbal nose with a medicinal Barker Shiraz 2008 HHHtouch. Palate has simple fruit, Simple, up-front, jubey berrywith similar characters to the fruit with some lovely lifted,nose. $45 spicy notes. $54.95Watershed WinesSenses Margaret River SHIRAZShiraz 2008 HHH 2007 & OLDERLovely developing, spicyaromas and jubey sweet fruit 10 TASTEDflavours. A good drink! $24.95 8 AWARDED Very solid, nicely aged, range of shiraz. These still had nice depth and brightness of fruit from a good vintage in WA. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 121

BEST OF THE WEST Shepherd’s Hut Porongurup Driftwood Margaret River Hartley Estate Hannah’s Shiraz 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Hill Chittering Valley Big beauty with dark, brooding Pepper and spice on the nose, Shiraz 2005 HHH fruit showing violet-like with a slight confectionery Big, sweet fruit and highlights and well-matched by touch. Quite a mature palate developed, leathery characters the vanillin oak. Lovely long, but it’s full of flavour. $23.90 consistent with the age of this lingering flavours. $22 Hope The Ripper lively wine. $40 Shepherd’s Hut Limited Western Australia Shiraz Release Porongurup 2007 HHH1/2 SWEET WHITE Shiraz 2007 HHHH Dark, restrained fruit nose; Dark and inviting wine that has some bright, spicy notes. Jubey 5 TASTED balance and length and a ripe, varietal fruit on the palate, nice 2 AWARDED plummy fruit bouquet with oak and high alcohol. $24 pleasant spiciness and big, Alkoomi Jarrah Frankland Pinelli Wines Estate simple, ripe, sweet palate. $30 River Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Western Australia Late Stella Bella Margaret Very jube-like varietal fruit - Harvest 2010 HHH1/2 River Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 vibrant and youthful and stands Gorgeous musky/floral nose Quite a perfumed nose and dark, out, with everything else in and lovely spicy, rose petal- brooding palate with sweet, ripe restraint. $44.69 like flavours; sweet, simple fruit flavours, big, dense tannins and long. $14Palandri Vita Novus and restrained oak. $27 Kalgan River Fire GoldFrankland River & Botrytised Riesling 2010Margaret River Shiraz (375ml) HHH2007 HHHH1/2 Restrained nose with just a hintBig, bright, youthful shiraz of botrytis, and a super-sweetloaded with very attractive, ripe, palate with grapey flavours. $20spicy varietal fruit seamlesslyintegrated with the oak and firmbut yielding tannins. $35122 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tasting AUSTRALIAPerth May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 123

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN NSW CHARMINGLY TANNED production from boutique producers Small Acres Cyder, run by Gail and James DARREN Jahn, one of the wine industry’s Kendell, are increasing production of leading marketing experts, is a regular cider from local heritage apple orchards. visitor to Mudgee through his work with The Kendells are the only producers of Robert Oatley Vineyards. He was so cider in Central Western NSW and are impressed with his usual accommodation passionate about introducing Australian at The Tannery that he purchased the palates to traditional English ciders. business. The building the self-catering cottage occupies dates back to the late Their range includes Somerset Still, 1850s, when it is believed the present a dry cider with earthy flavours and a residence was built as accommodation for crisp finish, and Norfolk Still, a medium- workers at the adjacent tannery. dry cider with fresh apple flavours. They offer sample tastings at weekends fromTOWN WITH Although now completely renovated, the 11am-4pm and also sell pork and ciderA STRONG HEARTBEAT cottage retains much of its original charm. sausages made by the Woodward Street Catering for one or two couples, it has a Butcher in Orange.LIKE nearby Orange, Canowindra is comfortable lounge with open fire, twohome to many boutique wineries and is bedrooms (one queen and one double) Small Acres Cyder is at 12 Akhurst Rd,a great weekend destination, thriving with luxurious linen, a dining room and a Borenore; phone (02) 6365 2286; www.at a time when many small country kitchen that complements the simple style of smallacrescyder.com.au.towns are dying. Canowindra is the the Victorian era. An enclosed garden withAustralian capital of hot air ballooning covered verandah offers peace and quiet Also new are the Stay Orange website,and has several art galleries, along but the restaurants and cafes of Mudgee which markets local accommodation, andwith The Age of Fishes Museum, which are just a short walk away and several cellar the recently launched Orange Apples, ancelebrates one of the world’s greatest doors are within a short drive. Prices start initiative of local apple growers and thefossil discoveries. Bushranger Ben Hall from $300, with a two-night minimum. The Taste Orange group, which was unveiledreputedly once held locals hostage in Tannery is at 48 Lawson St; phone 0411 during Orange F.O.O.D Week in April.the Royal Hotel - where visitors can still 020 574; www.thetannerymudgee.com.au.enjoy a cold beer. See www.stayorange.com.au for 24 MORE ORANGE OPTIONS different accommodation choices in The many historic stores and pubs in and around Orange, including bed andCanowindra are often used as sets by THERE is always something new breakfasts such as Camelia Cottage,filmmakers, while there’s also David happening in Orange. DeSalis Wines and Cotehele - the Magistrate’s House andIsbester’s lovely artworks at the River Charles Sturt University Wines are both set Arancia; boutique hotels including deBank Gallery, the organic fruits and to open new cellar doors; and increased Russie Suites and Millthorpe Motel, andvegetables at Gaskill Greens and apartments and self-catering choicesdelightful kitchenware, cookbooks and like Belgravia Cottage, Borrodel Vineyardutensils at the Bendy Street Emporium. cottages and Mayfield Vineyard cottages. While Canowindra’s wine reputationwas built on the quality of chardonnay,the new generation of wineries, includingHamilton’s Bluff, Swinging Bridge,Wallington and Tom’s Waterhole,have received a number of nationaltrophies and awards for varietiesincluding shiraz, sangiovese and shirazviognier blends. Taste Canowindrais a facility in the town that offers thechance to sample up to 50 local wines;see www.tastecanowindra.com.au.124 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

travelbriefs MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAY Dry Ridge Estate, the only commercial cellar door in the Blue Mountains, is tucked away off the scenic Six Foot Track in the delightful Megalong Valley. Grower Bob Tyrrell (no relation to the Hunter Tyrrells) has his wine made by talented Canowindra- based Frenchman Chris Derrez and also offers on-site accommodation at Sunrise Lodge on the estate. Dry Ridge Estate is open on Sundays from 11am, or daily by appointment. Phone (02) 4787 5625; www. dryridge.com.au.LARK HILL’S MILESTONE ESCAPE A TEAM EFFORT TASTE OF ASIATHE LARK Hill cellar door and restaurant is FIVE of the leading accommodation ORANGE has always punched above itsone of the “must visits” for anyone travelling providers in the Central West of NSW weight when it comes to dining options,to the Canberra wine region. Not only do the have banded together to create a group with current favourites including LolliCarpenter family produce a stunning riesling known as Amazing Country Escapes, Redini, Racine @ La Colline and Bistroand Australia’s first gruner veltliner, but they which covers places to stay in Mudgee, Ceello. Now Orange has its first modernalso run a lovely restaurant with an organic/ Bathurst, Carcoar and Orange. The Asian restaurant with the opening ofbiodynamic menu - the vineyards have been members are Bishop’s Court Boutique Sweet Sour Salt at 116 Summer St. Cheffarmed biodynamically since 2003. Hotel in Bathurst, Five Frogs Guesthouse Ivan Podres has produced a flavour- in Carcoar, Evanslea by the River and driven, pan-Asian menu. Expect dishes Lark Hill Winery was established in 1978 Wombadah Guesthouse in Mudgee, and such as chilli salt squid with bok choy,by Dr Dave and Sue Carpenter at a height Arancia B&B in Orange. For details see spicy Chinese beef rib with hot beanof 860m on the escarpment overlooking www.amazingcountryescapes.com.au. paste and tomato shao hsing, grain-fedLake George, and this year marks the 30th Scotch fillet with Laos salad and roastanniversary of the first vintage and the Wombadah, for example, overlooks the pork belly with spicy garlic sauce. MostCarpenters’ winemaker son Chris is now Mudgee Valley and some of the best- dishes are available in two sizes.part of the team. known wineries and vineyards in the region. A modern country guesthouse, Banquet menus cost $50 and $60 a The restaurant is only open for lunch on it has its own olive grove, in-ground head and the well-constructed wine listSaturdays, Sundays and public holidays. saltwater swimming pool, heated spa has a large local contingent, featuringThe menu changes regularly, with a focus on and four king en-suite rooms. The names such as Belgravia, Bloodwood,regional, seasonal produce, much of which name means ‘land of wombats’ in the Phillip Shaw, Brangayne and Mayfield,is grown on the family’s certified biodynamic local Aboriginal dialect but, rather than with a good selection of aromatic whitesfarm. Wine/food matching is showcased. wombats, you are more likely to see to accompany the spicy dishes. Sweet wallabies, particularly at early morning Sour Salt is open for lunch Wednesday- One course costs $35, two courses and as dusk settles. Friday and for dinner Tuesday-$47, and three courses $59 including tea Saturday 6-9pm. Phone (02) 6362 5191;or coffee. Think starters such as confit There’s a guest lounge (great for www.sweetsoursalt.com.au.of pork belly with apple and snow-pea relaxing by the log fire in winter) andsalad and an apple cider reduction, or hosts Kaye and Ray Whitfield are full Above: The Lark Hill cellar door and restaurant.pepper-crusted venison carpaccio with of local tips. The couple’s nearby sister Opposite pagea mustard vinaigrette. Mains may include property, Tierney House, is a self-catering Left: The Tannery cottage.ocean trout with wasabi mayonnaise and guesthouse - also set in its own orchards Centre: Canowindra’s Royal Hotel.shredded nori on a traditional cold soba and grounds - that is perfect for groups of Right: Cotehele, the Magistrate’s House.noodle salad and a soy dressing, or crispy up to 15. Tierney House has a long historychicken breast on truffled polenta with an and once was the home of John Tierney,eggplant salad. Phone (02) 6238 0266; Henry Lawson’s schoolteacher.www.larkhillwine.com.au. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 125

149 TASTED109 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN NSWOne of our strongest tastings over the past few years Centennial Vineyardsfrom this cool-climate region, showing that the difficult Reserve Southerntimes of three or four years ago may be over. Since Highlands Pinot Grigiothe region produces enough natural tannins of its own 2010 HHHduring cool years, it is pleasing to see the heavy hand Quite vinous on the nose, withof the oak being lightened up a bit. a tight varietal palate showing lots of citrus characters. $25SPARKLING Clearview Estate Tertini Reserve Tertini Southern Highlands Mudgee Sparkling Southern Highlands Pinot Grigio 2010 HHH6 TASTED Chardonnay NV HHH Arneis 2010 HHHH1/2 Light, bright floral/candy floss4 AWARDED Fragrant, musky bouquet, fine Delicate complexity to a nose nose. Fresh, clean and very bead and slightly sweet and showing lovely floral and spicy in the mouth. $25Solid group of easy drinkers, simple fruit palate. $22 apple-like aromas. Fresh, spicy, Wild Oats Mudgeewith a very good example of a fragrant, floral intensity on the Traminer 2010 HHHsparkling red. DRY WHITE palate with hints of apple. Great Floral/musky nose and well- BLENDS structure and texture. $35 handled balance between floral/ Ross Hill musky flavours and residual 4 TASTED Pinnacle Series Orange sugar. $18.99 2 AWARDED Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH Lovely characters of honey and SAUVIGNON Fresh and clean but generally butterscotch evident on a nose BLANC simple wines. with a pretty, spicy lift. Good varietal fruit definition on the 9 TASTEDMoppity Vineyards Windowrie Estate The Mill dry, well-balanced palate. $30 3 AWARDEDReserve Hilltops Sparkling Central Ranges Sauvignon Coolangatta Estate The judges were veryShiraz NV HHHH Blanc Semillon 2010 HHH Southern Coast Savagnin disappointed with this group. TooPretty fruit nose and very Spicy/floral aromas and clean, 2010 HHHH many wines had simple, greenpleasant, slightly sweet, palate. spicy palate with crisp, slightly Lively, very well made wine fruit lacking in varietal intensity.Very creamy texture, with well- biting, acidity. $16.99 with guava-like characters on But the wines that made thebalanced bright fruit flavours both nose and palate and some grade were clean and drinkable.and acid length. $59.99 Centennial Vineyards Bong lovely herbal traces. GreatMoppity Vineyards Lock & Bong Southern Highlands palate structure. $22 Burnbrae OrangeKey Hill Tops Chardonnay White 2010 HHH Windowrie Estate The Mill Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHPinot 2010 HHH Simple musky/floral/perfumed Central Ranges Verdelho Bright straw colour withSmoky/charry oak evident on nose with big mouthful of spicy 2010 HHH1/2 pungent aromas andthe nose. Soft and flavoursome stone-fruit flavours. $19 Long, lively wine with a gooseberry and kiwi fruitin the mouth, with great spicy/ powerful impression of fruit flavours. $18savoury depth. $14.99 OTHER WHITE salad characters on nose andCentennial Limited VARIETALS palate and balancing residualSouthern Highland Blanc sugar. $16.99de Blanc NV HHH 11 TASTED Burnbrae MudgeeDelicate yeasty/nutty nose and 9 AWARDED Viognier 2009 HHHquite savoury on a palate driven Good varietal; lovely apricotby the acid. $35 The judges agreed that the bouquet and lively, slightly hot, alternative varieties can do well palate. $18 in these cooler regions. Good Frog Rock Wine Mudgee potential here when the wines Pinot Gris 2010 HHH reach maturity. Well-defined varietal with unusual lime jelly style of fruit characters. Good food wine. $18126 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingBarwang Wine Binbilla Wine Hilltops Coolangatta Estate Queens PinchTumbarumba Sauvignon Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Shoalhaven Coast Vineyard MudgeeBlanc 2009 HHH Delicate frangipani/jasmine-like Semillon 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHLight citrus nose and pleasant, bouquet, with those characters Delicate, lifted, spicy lemon Nose opens up to lovely spicy/lively palate with soft, spicy notes echoed on the slightly sweet nose and pleasant palate with honeyed characters, followedand some residual sugar. $19.99 palate. $20 simple, spicy flavours and crisp by fresh and lively varietal fruit acidity. $20 flavours on a well-structuredMoppity Vineyards Lock Robert Stein palate. $15& Key Central Ranges Reserve Mudgee Riesling Frog Rock MudgeeSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Semillon 2010 HHHGooseberry/tropical fruit Good example of style, with Powerful young nose with bright,nose and nice fruity sherbet fresh, crisp lime aromas and grassy aromas, followed by acharacters on the palate. $14.99 smart, well-balanced citrus spicy tropical fruit palate. $18 palate with well-handledRIESLING residual sugar. $45 Coolangatta Estate Wollstone Craft6 TASTED Moppity Vineyards Lock Shoalhaven Coast5 AWARDED & Key Hilltops Riesling Semillon 2009 HHH 2010 HHH Subtle, lifted, spicy bouquet“Why would you bother growing Quite a lean and vinous style and well-balanced citrus palatepinot gris when you can have showing early signs of kero-like with nice level of acidity. $22rieslings like these?” asked one development. $14.99judge. “These were well-made Coolangatta Estatewines with varying styles from SEMILLON Shoalhaven Coastthose with residual sweetness Semillon 2008 HHHto others that were bone dry.” 9 TASTED Crisp, lively wine with hints of 7 AWARDED straw, followed by a lemon/citrus palate and touch of wood. $35 Almost a vertical tasting from one producer. Solid result, with CHARDONNAY one stand-out wine showing wonderful aged characters. 21 TASTED 15 AWARDEDTertini Southern Highlands Coolangatta Estate Very strong, consistent group Hungerford HillRiesling 2008 HHHH Shoalhaven Coast of chardonnays. There seems Tumbarumba ChardonnayRipe and citrusy on the nose Semillon 2003 HHHHH to be an effort for a stylistic 2009 HHHHand tight and lean in the mouth Great example of an aged shift towards finer, elegant Nose not giving muchwith a lovely intensity of delicate semillon, with gorgeous styles which, the judges away, but opens up to aorange-like flavours balanced by honeyed/toasty development agreed, augurs well. well-constructed palate witha crisp acid spine. $35 showing a hint of lanolin. Lovely excellent balance and greatChalkers Crossing Hilltops palate balance and finesse with Ross Hill savoury elements mixed withRiesling 2010 HHHH masses of smooth, ripe citrus Pinnacle Series Orange stone-fruit. $28Very lifted, ripe, honeysuckle flavours. $27 Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Wild Oats Mudgeebouquet, followed by a palate Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Lovely big, buttery chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHHexhibiting a nice balance Semillon 2010 HHH1/2 with well-defined melon/oak Lightly perfumed nose withand intensity of lemon/lime Vinous nose with good depth aromas and great varietal fruit a spicy lift. Very appealingflavours. $18 of fruit flavours blended with flavours seamlessly balanced fig, cashew and stone-fruit barrel ferment characters on a with acid and wood. $30 characters on the palate and just dry palate. Great texture. $18 Robert Oatley Mudgee the right amount of oak. $18.99 Coolangatta Estate Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Coolangatta Estate Shoalhaven Coast Old-fashioned style with Alexander Berry Semillon 2006 HHH1/2 good varietal nose of melons Shoalhaven Coast Good toasty depth to the nose, and peaches and lovely rich Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 and lively palate with plenty palate with seamless balance Citrus on the nose with floral of wood integrated with citrus between fruit and oak. $25.99 overtones. Palate a tad lean flavours and biting acidity. $45 and green - fruit-wise - but very good quality. $22 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 127

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWHungerford Hill Fishcage ROSÉ Clearview Estate Rocky Windowrie EstateTumbarumba Chardonnay Waterhole Mudgee Rosé The Mill Hilltops Cabernet2009 HHH1/2 7 TASTED 2009 HHH Merlot 2010 HHHH1/2Very rich, sweet wine - a good 3 AWARDED Light, spicy, fragrant nose and Nice blend with good purplecommercial style projecting “Some nice dry, savoury very sweet raspberry palate hues and a pleasant oak/mint/loads of lively melon and stone- tendencies here,” said one judge, well matched with acidity. $17 berry bouquet. Palate surprisinglyfruit characters. $17.99 “while others were ripe and soft, with good fruit impact andMoppity Vineyards jammy, with raisined sweetness.” PINOT NOIR powerful tannins that build to theTumbarumba Chardonnay finish. 3-5 $16.992010 HHH Frog Rock Mudgee Rosé 7 TASTEDDelicate, pretty nose - yet 2010 HHH1/2 2 AWARDEDquite complex, with the acid Pretty, tea rose-like bouquetprominent on the palate. $24.99 which follows through to the A disappointment for the Cumulus Wines RollingFrog Rock Mudgee soft, fresh palate. Sweet but judges. “Too many wines with Central Ranges CabernetChardonnay 2010 HHH balanced with nice acidity. $15 non-varietal confectionery Merlot 2008 HHHH1/2Light melon bouquet and Tertini Southern Highlands flavours,” they concluded. Good style with spicy/earthyflavoursome fruit palate. Good Rosé 2010 HHH1/2 bouquet showing a hint of licoricesimple, commercial style. $15 Nose has a slight cherry cough Centennial Vineyards and some berry fruits. Big, solid,Montrose mixture type of character, Woodside Southern cranberry-like palate that hasStoney Creek Mudgee leading to a nice savoury Highland Pinot Noir balance, weight and length.Chardonnay 2010 HHH palate. Good food wine. $25 2009 HHH Drinking well now. $17.99Subtle spicy lift to the nose, Bright, light and peppery on theand sweet melon characters on JUDGES nose, with a well-structured, Brangayne of Orangethe rich palate. $23.99 jammy berry palate. $25 Tristan Orange CabernetWindowrie EstateThe Mill Mudgee Tertini Southern HighlandChardonnay 2010 HHH Pinot Noir 2007 HHHSpicy/herbal nose with slight Beautiful plum nose with nicefunky notes. Lively in the floral notes, and a soft berrymouth, with complex, savoury fruit palate. $30flavours. $16.99Prince Hill Mudgee OTHERChardonnay 2010 HHH RED BLENDSDelicate melon aromas andbright, sweet and lively palate 7 TASTEDwith slightly tart acidity. $19 6 AWARDEDBrangayne of OrangeIsolde Orange Chardonnay Solid class with good-quality fruit Shiraz Merlot 2009 HHHH2009 HHH and well-handled oak. Definite Nose rich with vanilla, fruit andCashews, spices and melons improvement over what was some earthy/chocolaty nuances.on the nose, then a perfumed presented a few years ago. Soft, appealing fruit flavourslift and plenty of ripe fruit in the with smoky overtones andmouth. $30 warming alcohol. 3-5 $30Clearview EstateChurch Creek Mudgee Centennial Vineyards De Beaurepaire CaptainChardonnay 2009 HHH Reserve UnfilteredSmells of sweet honeydew Southern Highlands Starlight Series Mudgeemelons and exhibits delicate Merlot Cabernet Sauvignonvarietal flavours. $17 Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot 2008 HHHRobert Oatley Craigmoor 2008 HHHH1/2ACI Mudgee Chardonnay Spicy oak dominates the Quite a complex nose - oaky2009 HHH and earthy with a touch ofBig, heavy, old-fashioned style nose, which shows traces of fruit. Simple palate with a hotof chardonnay. A lot of oak licorice. Lovely big, rich palatematched by the lifted, lively - quite complex, with good finish. 3-5 $19fruit. $28.99 fruity impression, nice firm tannins and interesting savoury elements. 3-5 $30 Lynnette Haszard Julia Conchie Wine buyer for Winemaker and Woollahra and Bellevue vineyard manager Hotels and Bistro for di Lusso Wines Moncur restaurant. in Mudgee. Has also Dux of Roseworthy worked a vintage at Wine production Poet’s Corner Wines. course. Regular Associate judge at the Winestate NSW judge. Mudgee wine show.128 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingFreeman Vineyards Coolangatta Estate MERLOT Moppity VineyardsHilltops Rondinella Soalhaven Coast Tannat Lock & Key HilltopsCorvina 2007 HHH 2009 HHHH 7 TASTED Merlot 2009 HHHSubdued, cedary aromas and a Attractive purple/violet hues with 5 AWARDED Deep purple wine with‘bitey’ palate with closed fruit low-key but complex aromas. reasonable varietal fruit.flavours. Will soften with more Palate very austere but lots of The judges were pleasantly Warm in the mouth. Firmage. 5+ $30 fruit lurks beneath and will show surprised at the quality finish. 3-5 $14.99 up with age. 5+ $35 of the merlots, with goodOTHER RED consistent winemaking.VARIETALS Coolangatta Estate CABERNET Shoalhaven Coast Moppity Vineyards Hilltops SAUVIGNON10 TASTED Tempranillo 2009 HHHH Merlot 2009 HHHH8 AWARDED Attractive oaky aromas with Big, powerful, ripe merlot - very 15 TASTED some pomegranate elements. tannic at the moment. “GiveVery solid class of unusual Palate projects excellent it 10 years,” suggested one 11 AWARDEDvarieties. “Clearly a lot of varietal fruit flavours and judge. Lovely mix of berry fruitpotential for these different finishes long and firm. $35 and oak characters. $24.99 Excellent examples of good redswines,” said the judges. rather than varietal cabernets. Centennial Vineyards The older wines really shone Southern Highlands here and show the potential for Sangiovese 2008 HHH1/2 even further ageing. Some of Smoky/earthy berry fruit the ‘09s were overly tannic. aromas and a firm palate with plenty of lean fruit, crisp acid and fine tannins. $30 Centennial Vineyards Gardners Ground Reserve Southern Organic Canowindra Highlands Tempranillo Merlot 2008 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Loads of fruit all the way from Very young, savoury style that beginning to end, with oak needs years of cellaring. Nice evident but well-integrated, balance between spicy oak and creating a pleasing effect. soft fruit. $30 “Good now - will get even Prince Hill Mudgee better.” 5+ $19.99 Sangiovese 2009 HHHRoss Hill Pinnacle Series Very appealing varietal Windowrie EstateOrange Cabernet Franc characteristics on the nose, The Mill Central Ranges2009 HHHH1/2 and with nice grippy tannins Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 De Beaurepaire VictorExcellent varietal expression carrying the fruit. $19 Great nose - smells of jam on Mudgee Caberneton the nose; lifted raspberries Burnbrae Mudgee toast! Firm, tight and a little lean Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2with minty/eucalypt touches. Sangiovese 2009 HHH in the mouth, with a pleasant Tight, clean and slightlyMuch the same happening on Subdued red fruit bouquet and lively finish. $16.99 subdued nose with some nice and light palate with simple aged characters developing.a palate with great length of fruit characters. $18 Cumulus Wines Climbing Palate still amazingly youthful,drying tannins. Good cellaring Centennial Vineyards Orange Merlot 2009 HHH with long, well-balanced, Reserve Barbera 2009 HHH Subdued aromas with light licorice-like flavours. Give it Toasty fruit aromas with cedar/fruit notes, and a simple, another 4-6 years! $28 earthy undertones, and robust straightforward, lightweight fruit flavours. “Needs pizza or palate. $21.99 pasta!” $30potential. 5+ $35 Stephen Knight Stephen Doyle JUDGES 20 years’ experience in the wine Winemaker/proprietor and hospitality industries ranging for Bloodwood wines. Denis Gastin from hands-on involvement in Associate judge for Senior wine writer and wineries, experience as a state NSW shows. Topped author and former Australian sales manager, managing wine wine appreciation trade official in China and retail stores, and setting up and course at Australian Japan, who has written running restaurants. Wine Research extensively about the Asian He is at present a freelance Institute in 2002. Has wine industry. He writes wine consultant, wine educator, conducted 26 vintages for wine and liquor industry writer and presenter both in around Australia. publications in Japan and Australia and overseas. South Korea and for the official Australia Wine Japanese language website. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 129

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWShaw Vineyard Estate Robert Stein Reserve Binbilla Wines Good Pig in the House WinesReserve Merriman Mudgee Cabernet Friday Hilltops Shiraz Cowra Shiraz 2010 HHHHHCanberra District Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH 2009 HHHHH A consumers’ wine that’s all fruit.Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 Hints of mint and blueberries on Crimson wine with velvety berry Rich, lifted raspberry aromasGood purple hues, appealing the nose. Relatively soft palate and chocolate bouquet with with smoky overtones and aminty varietal fruit and some with some impressive fruit. $40 slight savoury notes. Great, rich palate that’s open and fresh, withnice chocolaty notes with Spring Ridge Wines varietal fruit expression on a surprisingly good length and firm,vanillin oak. Smells inviting. Cowra Cabernet palate carried by some lovely grippy tannins. 3-5 $25“Would be great with lamb,” Sauvignon 2007 HHH tannins. “Good all-round drink,”suggested one judge. $45 Solid, ‘meaty’ nose and slightly said one judge. $25 aged, well-balanced, savouryRoss Hill Pinnacle palate. Needs food. $19Series Orange CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHHH SHIRAZ BLENDSEucalypt-dominated nose andwarm palate with powerful 4 TASTEDvarietal flavours and good 4 AWARDEDoak interest. “Would be greatwith beef,” thought one Centennial Vineyardsjudge. 5+ $35 Reserve Southern Highlands Shiraz ViognierQueens Pinch Vineyard 2007 HHHHHSelect Mudgee Cabernet Riper style but still youthful, withSauvignon 2008 HHHH a few years left in it yet. The noseVery well made wine dominated shouts of raspberries with slightby some lovely varietal fruit and smoky overtones and the palateshould age well. Minty/cassis offers loads of flavour, greatnose and soft, well-balanced texture and plenty of length. $30palate. 5+ $24 De Beaurepaire Leopold Mudgee Shiraz ViognierCentennial Vineyards 2009 HHHHReserve Southern Pleasant, savoury bouquet withHighlands Cabernet a tinge of viognier/apricot fruit,Sauvignon 2008 HHHH and chocolaty shiraz flavoursSavoury style with good oak nicely supported by the viognier.characters on the nose and Good light red style. $28a tight and complex palate Prince of Orange Ross Hillshowing more fruit than the Orange Shiraz Viognier Pinnacle Series Orange Robert Steinnose suggests. 3-5 $35 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Reserve Mudgee Shiraz Savoury nose has spiciness Reeks of raspberries and has 2009 HHHHHPrince Of Orange building with some air. Shiraz subtle oaky notes. Very rich Subtle wine with elegantOrange Cabernet obvious on a palate with good and long shiraz fruit flavours intensity of fruit showing a slightSauvignon 2005 HHHH use of oak. All it needs is that finish firm and tannic with green edge and some lovelySoft, well-aged cabernet with another 3-5 years! $22 heat from the alcohol. Age chocolaty elements. The oak isappealing Violet Crumble-like needed but you can drink now quite evident but it has the fruitaromas and a medium-bodied, and enjoy. 5+ $35 to carry it. 3-5 $40fruity palate with a nice tannicgrip. 3-5 $22Burnbrae Mudgee Cabernet Burnbrae Mudgee ShirazSauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Viognier 2009 HHH1/2Cassis and mint aromas, Nice touch of apricot charactersplus some licorice. Loads of on the nose, and very pleasant,rich flavours with complex soft, fruity palate with someelements showing through. All shiraz fruit nuances. $25good! 5+ $28 SHIRAZCoolangatta Estate Hungerford Hill Fishcage Moppity VineyardsShoalhaven Coast Cabernet 22 TASTED Southern New South Lock & Key MudgeeSauvignon 2009 HHH 22 AWARDED Wales Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2Minty cabernet aromas with Oaky nose but with subtlea tinge of vanilla, and very At their best the wines from this raspberry fruit underneath andpleasant, ripe fruit with an oaky region approach the best wines also raspberry flavours withframework. $22 of the Rhone Valley. Amazing a spicy lift. Tight, firm and consistency of styles ranging youthful palate. $14.99Cumulus Wines Climbing from fruit-driven cool-climate Colour and nose show promiseOrange Cabernet wine to savoury, developed and substance. Smells ofSauvignon 2009 HHH wines. Most of these trended plums, cherries and oak. LoadsAttractive fruit and oak on the towards restrained rather than of complexity on a palate that’snose, and quite a ‘severe’ palate heavy styles. rich with fruit flavours. Willwith a tannic ending. $21.99 age beautifully but is also good now! 5+ $17.99130 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingSwinging Bridge Hungerford Hill Moppity VineyardsCentral Ranges Shiraz Tumbarumba Shiraz Hilltops Shiraz 2009 HHH2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2 Tight fruit nose and veryVibrant, rich-red tones tending to Shy young fruit aromas on young, tight palate withpurple, with ripe red berry aromas the nose but deceptively reasonable varietal fruitand loads of varietal expression powerful fruit on the palate. presence. 3-5 $24.99on the palate. Good use of oak. Alcohol heat dominates theWell-balanced and well-made finish. 5+ $35 Willy Wagtail Mudgeewine. 3-5 $19.95 Shiraz 2009 HHH Frog Rock Wines Old Developed, earthy nose withMoppity Vineyards Vines Mudgee Shiraz nice berry notes, and lovelyReserve Hilltops Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 fruit impact on a soft palate2009 HHHH Unusual shiraz style. Soft with a firm finish. $20Solid, dark, chocolaty shiraz berry aromas with a medicinal/with good firm tannin support. menthol lift and more of the Barwang Wines HilltopsNice fresh berry aromas and menthol characters on the soft Shiraz 2008 HHHcrispness on the palate. $59.99 palate. 3-5 $20 Subdued, confectionery-sweet nose and a lean, sharp palate Cumulus Wines Climbing with nice fruit and hot alcohol. Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Fuller, warmer-climate style - 5+ $19.99 Clearview Estate Mudgee very chocolaty, with plum-like SWEET WHITE Shiraz 2009 HHHH fruit underpinned by some really & FORTIFIED Clean, fresh, lifted berry lovely oak. 5+ $21.99 bouquet with good dollop of 4 TASTED oak, and up-front shiraz fruit on a long, well-balanced palate. 3 AWARDED Made for early drinking. $20 Some lovely examples here that Gardners Ground should please most consumers! Organic CanowindraCumulus Wines Shiraz 2008 HHHHRolling Central Ranges Nose still quite closed but someShiraz 2009 HHHH attractive fruit just starting toNose has oak sitting on top peek through. Dark and chocolatyof ripe berry fruits. Seamless on the palate, with some alcoholbalance and satisfying length heat on the finish. $19.99of fruit/oak flavours.“A prosciutto wine,” Moppity Vineyardssuggested one judge. $17.99 Reserve Hilltops Shiraz 2008 HHHH Surprisingly minty nose with smoky/earthy overtones. Lots of soft fruit flavours on a palateMontrose Mudgee Black with warming alcohol and aShiraz 2009 HHHH firm finish. 5+ $59.99Lovely mix of red fruit Burnbrae Mudgeearomas with subtle oaky Tawny NV HHHHnotes. Youthful palate - plenty Lovely rich rancio notes on theof berry fruit flavours and nose, and a velvety-smooth,appropriate use of oak. well-integrated, sweet raisinedTannic end. 3-5 $28.99 palate. Has length and body. $25 Burnbrae Mudgee LiqueurCentennial Vineyards Muscat NV HHH1/2Woodside Orange Shiraz Gardners Ground Nose a tad ‘quiet’ but some2009 HHHH (NAP) Canowindra good age depth. Rich and port-Deep crimson wine with Shiraz 2010 HHH like in the mouth, with a lifted,confectionery fruit nose and Raw berry aromas and an spicy backbone. $25big, ripe, fruit palate. A bit assertive, tannic palate with Coolangatta Estateof heat coming from the greener fruit and high alcohol. Shoalhaven Coastalcohol. One for lovers of Needs time. 5+ $19.99 Fortified Verdelhoblockbusters! 5+ $23 1998 (375ml) HHH Ripe, honeyed nose with big, Burnbrae Mudgee Shiraz spirity lift, and a palate that 2007 HHHH resembles madeira. $35 Earthy/tobacco bouquet and a palate that’s firming up nicely with age and showing good length and intensity of rich fruit with subtle oak. 5+ $28 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 131

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINADELAIDE HILLSK1 GETS A MAKEOVER on the Kuitpo vineyard, on the ridge of the south-west escarpment of the Mt LoftyTHERE is a completely new look to the Ranges, between 300 and 350m abovecellar door at K1 by Geoff Hardy, one sea level. The combination of this altitude,of the prettiest wine destinations in the climate and ancient soils has made this siteAdelaide Hills. The cellar door, which ideal for a premium cool-climate vineyardsits out over the lake at K1, is aimed at and as the vineyard was the first significantincreasing interaction between servers planting in the Kuitpo region, most peopleand guests. Rather than a tasting ‘bar’, refer to it now as the ‘K1’ vineyard.there is a table in the middle of the room.Geoff Hardy’s daughter Bec describes The cellar door is open Friday-Sundaythe new set-up as “designed so we can and public holidays from 11am-5pm, inmingle and chat to people in a more Tynan Road, Kuitpo; phone (08) 8388 3700; www.k1.com.au. with a hearty fire to keep guests warm in winter, Restaurant Tranquilo also has a blackboard specials menu that changes with the seasons. Phone (08) 8339 7333.casual way”. She reports the new table, TRANQUIL STIRLING DEVIATION FROM THE MAPwhich Geoff built himself from a 300-year-old red gum, as having been “fantastic STIRLING was already home to the RATHER confusingly, the new Deviationat getting groups to interact with each excellent Grill at the Stirling Hotel and Road cellar door is not actually on Deviationother”. established favourite Locavore, but another Rd, the site of the main vineyard, but on Scott relative newcomer, Restaurant Tranquilo Creek Rd at Longwood, one of the closest The gum tree on the Hardy family on Mt Barker Road, is enjoying great Adelaide Hills cellar doors to Adelaide cityproperty Wirrega, on the Limestone popularity and is open daily for breakfast, centre. The cellar door tasting room - theCoast, died about 70 years ago. The lunch and dinner. Set in a lovely old house final piece of the boutique wine jigsaw puzzleHardys cut it down when they purchased started by Kate and Hamish Laurie 10 yearsthe property in 1994, cut it up and had ago - is located at the couple’s 50-hectarebeen drying it ever since. The side of the property in Longwood and is the only winerytable is made from recycled oak barrels. cellar door in this picturesque district.Geoff also used staves from barrels tomake the “Plumm glass chandelier” and Set within magnificent native Australianhas installed a new large display/storage beauty opposite the Sir Mark Oliphantcupboard in the cellar door where the K1 Conservation Park, the Lauries’ propertyrange is displayed. has almost 35 hectares of virgin scrubland, with the addition of a juvenile oak plantation Geoff - a member of one of Australia’s Hamish has planted with a view tomost famous winemaking dynasties - and harvesting truffles in another decade -his family have now been making wines another first for the Hills.in the site for over 20 years, starting theplanting of 30 hectares of vines in 1987 The cellar door facility is surrounded by three acres of vines - pinot noir, gruner veltliner and shiraz - fruit from which is being used to supplement the vineyards established in the early 1980s by Hugh’s family at Carey Gully. The cellar door is open seven days from 10am-5pm and cheese platters are available to accompany new-release wines. Phone (08) 8339 2633; www.deviationroad.com.au.132 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

travelbriefs In other great news for visitors to the in Canada. The wine list, too, has been Hills, the benchmark Shaw and Smith revamped with an excellent selection, cellar door is now open seven days several by the glass of local stars including a week (having previously only been Bird In Hand, Nepenthe, Shaw and Smith open at weekends). From 11am to 5pm, and smaller labels such as Lobethal Road guests can pay $14 for a semi-formal and Paracombe. tasting which includes 40ml glasses of four wines, accompanied by a cheese While the gorgeous old hotel has all sampler plate. The cost of the tasting modern luxuries including complimentary is refundable for any purchase of six in-room wireless broadband, sleek LCD or more bottles of wine. Bookings are TVs and an Italianate swimming pool - essential for groups of six or more people. it’s the authenticity of the 1850s country Phone (08) 8398 0500. manor that resonates with those lucky enough to stay there.SOMERLED’S NEW FACE LOFTY LUXURY Rooms are double the size of many modern-day hotel rooms and are furnishedFAMILY-owned Somerled Wines has THE HISTORIC and atmospheric Grand with comfy throw cushions, plush duvets,opened a new cellar door in Hahndorf Mercure Mt Lofty House is a gracious and opulent Victorian-era style furnishings.- a cosy space with a sunny courtyard. and relaxing base from which to explore For those who enjoy a room with a view,Somerled is owned by winemaker Rob the Adelaide Hills - and new chef Girard most offer spectacular panoramas acrossMoody (who spent over 30 years working Ramsey has now put his mark on the the Piccadilly Valley. The deluxe rooms arefor Penfolds in a number of guises), his wife restaurant. Starters include natural oysters in the original heritage home built in 1854Heather and their daughter Lucy. with Japanese flavours (flying fish roe, lime and in subsequent extensions built after the and yuzu dressing, wakame and toasted Ash Wednesday fires of 1983, which nearly The small range includes a sparkling pinot sesame), or, from the garden, a terrine of razed the property.noir, a sauvignon blanc, a chardonnay and roasted eggplant, red capsicum, zucchinia European-style medium-weight ‘Picnic and goat’s milk feta with confit tomatoes, Rates start from $229 for a deluxeRaces Red’, the name of which reflects the babaganoush and vincotto. Mains may room with two-night packages, includingfamily’s horseracing history. include fillet of salmon with parmesan country continental breakfasts, starting risotto cake, green asparagus, romesco from $189 per room. Grand Mercure Mt The horse on the label depicts the bay sauce with Xerez vinegar and Coriole olive Lofty House is at 74 Mt Lofty Summitgelding Somerled, which was ridden to oil or confit duck leg, braised puy lentils, Road, Crafers; phone (08) 8339 6777;victory by Rob’s grandfather, Stephen caramelised Belgian endive with orange www.mtloftyhouse.com.au.Bowd, in the Amateur Steeplechase at the and Grand Marnier duck juices.local Oakbank Picnic Races back in 1908. Above: Grand Mercure Mt Lofty House chef GirardThe Somerled cellar door is at 89 Main St, Previously executive chef at the Oaks Ramsey. Right & below: Somerled cellar door exterior.Hahndorf and is open Thursday-Monday Plaza and Pier Hotel in Adelaide, Girard has Opposite page:from 10am-5pm. revitalised the menu after a stint cooking Left & below: K1 by Geoff Hardy cellar door & truck. Right: Grand Mercure Mt Lofty House exterior. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 133

ADELAIDE HILLS174 TASTED80 AWARDEDADELAIDE HILLSThis is one of Australia’s leading cool-climate regions Nepenthe Adelaide Hills SAUVIGNONand, as with all marginal regions, you have brilliant Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH1/2 BLANCwines and the occasional disappointment. Site selection Fresh, fragrant nose smellingis critical and the best wines are worth searching for. of peas and apple blossom. 33 TASTEDA real surprise was the quality of the shiraz, offering Stylish palate with a mouthful 9 AWARDEDvibrancy with intensity. of some very nice flavours - a combination of pears and One of the best regions inSPARKLING Wolf Blass Gold Label peaches. Good line of acid. $19 Australia for this variety, Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Chain of Ponds Amelia’s according to the judges, but the7 TASTED Chardonnay 2007 HHH Letter Adelaide Hills Pinot better wines are site-specific.4 AWARDED Solid Aussie-style sparkling Grigio 2010 HHHH The best had flavour intensity, with aged honeyed bouquet “A shining light that shows length and balancing acidity butSolid group of broad fruit and full fruit palate. $24.99 understanding of the there were too many highlysparklings; nice drinks rather variety,” was one judge’s ‘acidified’ wines with green fruit.than complex styles. ROSE opinion. Very complex aromas and a fresh, zesty 4 TASTED and flavoursome palate. $20 2 AWARDED Reilly’s Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Lifted perfumed floral fragrances and fresh green apple and floral flavours. $18Deviation Road Adelaide These were better on the nose Paracombe Adelaide Hills Wicks Estate AdelaideHills Methode Champenoise than the palate, with a number Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Hills Sauvignon Blanc2009 HHHH1/2 showing early development. Very appealing fresh, sweet, 2010 HHHHHYouthful nose with fresh lemony nose. Rich palate Gorgeous wine with brightaromas laced with some Protero Adelaide showing sweet tropical green coloured and intense,attractive broad, yeasty Hills Pinot Noir Rosé flavours. $19 pungent varietal fruitcomplexity. Very pleasant tight 2010 HHH1/2 Zilzie Wines Regional expression, more in the Newand crisp green apple palate Subdued, developing fruit aromas Collection Adelaide Hills Zealand vein. Green tropicaloffering nice quaffing. $34 and soft, rounded fruit palate with Pinot Gris 2010 HHH bouquet and mouthfillingMojo Fizz Adelaide Hills flavour length and persistence Shy nose with peas and cashews flavours. $18Chardonnay Pinot Noir and some sugar. $20 evolving. Similar characters Chain of PondsBrut Cuvee NV HHH1/2 echoed on the lithe palate. $16 Black Thursday AdelaideDeveloped, aged stewed Chain of Ponds The Pawn Caissa Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blancfruit bouquet with lemon skin Novello Adelaide Hills Hills Pinot Grigio 2010 HHH 2010 HHHHflavours and exhibiting layers of Rosé 2010 HHH Delicate, jasmine-like bouquet Youthful, slightly sweaty, lemon/complexity. $19.95 Pleasant, broad stone-fruit and fresh, crisp palate with lime aromas and quite a tropicalWicks Estate Adelaide aromas with pretty, light, crisp piercing acidity. Great food palate; mango, pineapple andHills Sparkling acid flavours. $16 wine. $20 passionfruit-like in character,Chardonnay Pinot Noir Kirrihill Wines Serendipity with juicy acidity. $202009 HHH1/2 PINOT GRIS/ Vineyard Adelaide HillsYeasty nose and fuller-style PINOT GRIGIO Pinot Grigio 2010 HHHpalate. Good depth of Berocca- Lifted musky/figgy aromas andlike flavours showing a lemony 18 TASTED a heavier, slightly developededge. Developing nicely. $25 7 AWARDED palate. Well put together. $16 Some good examples of style at the top end but there were too many green/unripe wines, resulting in short and empty flavours. “These are phenolic varieties so winemakers need phenolic ripeness and to keep the pressings low,” said one judge.134 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingThe Black Chook Adelaide RIESLING Patritti Jimmy’s SEMILLON BLENDSHills Sauvignon Blanc Hat Adelaide Hills2010 HHH1/2 5 TASTED Savagnin Arneis 4 TASTEDLight and delicate wine with Pinot Gris 2010 HHH 1 AWARDEDplenty of clean tropical fruit 2 AWARDED Closed nose with cashew/that exhibits a citrusy edge and nougat hints. Fuller palate Obvious combination but is thesome herbal notes. $17 The judges expected more with great apple and ripe pear best fruit going into these? from this class, although flavours. $12.50 Chain of PondsTomich Hill Single Vineyard there were a couple of good Patritti Adelaide Hills Novello Adelaide HillsAdelaide Hills Sauvignon examples showing potential. Arneis 2010 HHH Semillon Sauvignon BlancBlanc 2010 HHH Minerally bouquet with pear-like 2010 HHHGreat nose; complex, with Mt Lofty Ranges Vineyard characters, and creamy mouthful Well-made wine - lovely meldtropical varietal power which Hand Picked Lenswood of fresh pear flavours. $12.50 of green tropical and citrusis mirrored on the creamy Riesling 2010 HHHH varietal characters. $16palate. $20 Zesty, perfumed lemon VIOGNIERMaximus Adelaide Hills aromas. Stylish minerally CHARDONNAYSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH palate, on the lean style. 4 TASTEDStylish and understated, with Excellent balance of citrus 4 AWARDED 38 TASTEDsome complexity. Pungent nose; and talc-like flavours with a Solid, consistent group worth 15 AWARDEDlovely textured palate. $19.99 persistent finish. 5+ $22 looking at for the future.K1 by Geoff Hardy The judges expected moreAdelaide Hills Sauvignon Tomich Hill Single Tim Smith Wines Adelaide from this stalwart of the region.Blanc 2010 HHH Vineyard Adelaide Hills Hills Viognier 2010 HHHH Some wines were over-oakedDelicate passionfruit lift to Riesling 2010 HHH Big, appealing style. Smells of for their fruit weight, whilethe lemony nose and zesty Delicate, floral, musky bouquet apricot kernels, almonds and others were underripe. Thebrightness on the grassy and juicy-fresh lime palate with dried flowers. Lovely varietal top wines were chasing thepalate. $20 some floral sweetness. $20 flavours of musky/apricot modern, ‘restrained’ style and aBird in Hand Adelaide characters. $28 few pulled it off!Hills Sauvignon Blanc OTHER WHITE Fox Gordon Abby Wolf Blass White Label2010 HHH VARIETALS Adelaide Hills Viognier Adelaide Hills ChardonnayLifted, pungent passionfruit 2009 HHH 2007 HHHHHbouquet and interesting citrus 5 TASTED Intense, toasty marmalade and Beautifully layered, complexspectrum on the palate. $25 4 AWARDED dried apricot flavours kept in style with lovely aged charactersNepenthe Adelaide Hills check by nice fresh acid. $19.95 evolving. Smells of citrus andSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Some nice drinking from Protero Gumeracha oyster shells, with mouth-Smells of pulpy pineapple and alternative varieties here. Adelaide Hills Viognier watering grapefruit, peach andpassionfruit. Very tight, long and 2007 HHH cashew flavours. Youthful, freshintense greenish palate. $19 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Developed, toasty/honeyed and vibrant. $42.99One Planet Local Hero Hills Arneis 2010 HHHHH apricot bouquet. Oak featuresAdelaide Hills Sauvignon Lychees and limes on the on the palate but it’s well Morgan’s Adelaide HillsBlanc 2010 HHH nose; quite perfumed and done. $29 Chardonnay 2010 HHHHFresh, fragrant nose and bright, tropical. Very minerally palate Willunga 100 Adelaide Fine orange blossom bouquetlively pineapple/lemon palate - with excellent intensity and Hills Viognier 2010 HHH and ripe, tropical palate madequite acidic. $14.95 persistence of crisp pear and Heady frangipani nose and very more in an Old World style pineapple pulp flavours. Great long, hot, fresh apricot palate but, according to one judge, food wine. 1-2 $20 with fine acidity. $23 “It’s spot on!” $15 Bird in Hand Fox Gordon Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Princess Adelaide Hills 2009 HHHH Fiano 2010 HHHH Lovely aromas like figs, Lifted white peach bouquet with grapefruit and freshly turned nice nuttiness. Warm, oily, fruit- earth, with loads of varietal fruit driven palate - lots of tropicals flavours on a nicely textured with floral flashes. Good palate. Great food wine. $25 example of the varietal. $19.95 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 135

ADELAIDE HILLSYalumba FDW7C Nepenthe Ithaca K1 by Geoff Hardy OTHER REDAdelaide Hills Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir VARIETALS2008 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHHH & BLENDSAttractive smoky, peaty, Brooding mango fragrances Complex concentration of inky/mushroomy complexity of and solid varietal fruit palate dark cherry aromas with some 13 TASTEDaromas, and intense savoury starts with mango flavours and intense ‘waves’ of compost, 6 AWARDEDflavours on a long, mouth- finishes with lemon juice. $29 cherries and dark chocolatewatering palate fresh with flavours. $35 Interesting group of diverseacid. $29.95 Hardys Oomoo varietals, with the cool-Protero Gumeracha Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Jacob’s Creek Reserve climate clones coming to theAdelaide Hills Chardonnay 2008 HHH Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir fore. “It shows that there is2007 HHHH Good depth of sweet peach 2009 HHH1/2 enough potential to searchSubtle fruit salad nose and aromas and a very peachy/tropical Soft, perfumed, spicy nose with for the right sites for these,”fleshy, fruity palate with palate with fresh acidity. $19.99 a savoury suggestion, and a commented one judge.persistent flavours and nice firm, creamy, strawberry palateminerally characters with oak K1 by Geoff Hardy with good acid balance. $18.99 Bird in Hand Adelaidequite prominent, but a good Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Hills Merlot 2009 HHHHHeffort. $22 2009 HHH d’Arenberg The Feral Fox Big wine for a merlot - veryPenfolds Reserve Bin A Interesting lemon zest and Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir plummy/chocolate nose andAdelaide Hills Chardonnay apple cider aromas. Good palate 2009 HHH1/2 lovely clean, sweet plum fruit2009 HHHH depth and length, with some Nose opens up to a complexity expression on the palate withVibrant, lifted, oak-driven nose, lovely fruit. $35 of cherry fruit and graphite some grippy tannins and good-followed by a precise, well- oak. Tightly wound palate with quality chocolaty oak. $35focused, minerally palate with Nepenthe Adelaide Hills grippy tannins. 3-5 $30masses of varietal fruit and Chardonnay 2010 HHH Paracombe Adelaide Hillslovely quality oak. $89.99 Simple peach and nectarine Nepenthe Adelaide Hills Malbec 2008 HHHHPenfolds Thomas aromas, and well-balanced palate Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Nice mid-weight style - someHyland Cool Climate with layered complexity. $19 Earthy/gamey/cherry bouquet complexity - fresh purple berryAdelaide Hills Chardonnay and funky/inky intensity on the varietal fruit and big mouthful2010 HHHH Cockfighter’s Ghost interesting, complex palate. $19 of chocolaty oak, with theNose quite complex and buttery, Premium Reserve Adelaide tannins providing direction. $27with oak dominating the youthful Hills Chardonnay 2008 HHH Deviation Road Adelaidefruit. Oak palate with good Good bottle age characters on Hills Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Hahndorf Hill Wineryvarietal fruit depth, texture and the nose. Complex sweet fruit Quite a volatile nose and a soft, Blueblood Adelaide Hillsacidity to match. $21.99 palate evolving nicely. $39.99 spicy, fruit-driven palate with Blaufrankisch 2009 HHH1/2Penfolds Cellar Reserve gamey traces. $32 Very interesting, fresh, vibrantAdelaide Hills Chardonnay McGuigan No 6060 The wine with nicely focused red/2010 HHHH Shortlist Adelaide Hills Tomich Hill Adelaide Hills blue berry fruit, wildflowersPlenty of spicy oak aromas Chardonnay 2010 HHH Pinot Noir 2009 HHH and cola-like characters with aunderscored with floral/ Complexity of fig, melon and Rich red berry fruit with creamy good oak profile. $35grapefruit notes. Very textured oak aromas. Similar characters oak, some development andpalate. Fruit overpowered by mirrored on the palate. $25 interesting funky notes. $30 Chain of Ponds Thethe oak and buttery malo - for Stopover Adelaide Hillsnow. $33.99 PINOT NOIR Barbera 2008 HHH1/2Rosemount Limited Great varietal expression ofRelease Adelaide Hills 11 TASTED sour cherries with a whiff ofChardonnay 2009 HHHH 6 AWARDED leather. Nice and thick andVery attractive floral, quince fleshy in the mouth. $20and citrus-like aromas leading “A bit disappointing,” agreedto a juicy, well-balanced the judges. “Too many simple Nepenthe Adelaide Hillspeaches and cream palate - wines with inappropriate Tempranillo 2008 HHHvery lively and fresh. $29.99 tannins.” A diverse range of Smells of dark, porty fruit and styles on show, ranging from has a fleshy fruit palate lacedJUDGES juicy carbonic maceration to with subtle savoury notes. $25 fragrant, lifted fruit styles. The better wines showed an extra layer of texture and weight.Glenn James Peter Kelly Shane HarrisWinemaker and Director of Winemaker for Peter Recently joinedDucks in a Row Winemakers Lehmann Wines. Formerly McLaren Vintners asan independent and boutique with Thorn Clarke wines winemaker. Previouslylabel based in Adelaide. Glenn and Rolf Binder in the winemaker withis an experienced senior wine Barossa. Associate judge Classic McLaren Winesshow judge and is the former at the Barossa wine show. for the past four years.Group Red and Group White Dux at the AWRI Advanced Has also completedwinemaker for Foster’s Wine Wine Assessment Course. vintages in QueenslandEstates and Group White and Victoria.winemaker for the HardyWine Company.136 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

Paracombe regional tasting Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH Crushed. Lifted, fruity nose and supple, well-balanced blackcurrant fruit with balancing oak. $21 SHIRAZ BLENDS 7 TASTED 4 AWARDEDTotino Estate Adelaide Solid class of clean,Hills Sangiovese 2009 HHH flavoursome blends.Very rich, spicy, fruit cakestyle with deep, brooding Longview AdelaideVegemite characters and a bit Hills Shiraz Cabernetof mint. $18.95 Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Fusion of spicy/meaty/plumCABERNET fruit fragrances, followed by aSAUVIGNON nicely textured meaty/stone-& BLENDS fruit palate showing a backbone of juicy acidity. $15.507 TASTED3 AWARDED Wicks Estate Eminence Adelaide Hills ShirazOverall disappointing, raising Cabernet 2007 HHHHthe question whether the Hills Nose is a complex meaty/are too cool for this variety. forest floor compote. SavouryCertainly site selection is critical. highlights on the palate are complemented by black fruits with nice texture. $60Wicks Estate Adelaide Crush 2011 is over...Hills Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHH Anvers Wines but to all those who got Crushed with us, weFinely tuned blackcurrant fruit Razorback Road Adelaide thank you for your attendance and support.nose with inky intensity, and Hills Shiraz Caberneta solid wallop of fruit on the Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Cellar door sales and tastings, open sevenpalate, supported by good Dark, closed nose has spicy days all year round, 11am – 5pm.tannin structure. $19 and savoury tones. Firm, dry, 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside,Somerled Picnic Races Red black peppery, oak and plum South Australia.Adelaide Hills Cabernet palate with a lick of sweetSauvignon 2009 HHH berries and fine tannins. $25Aromas of black fruits, violets Wolf Blass Gold Labeland chocolate. Massive, densely Adelaide Hills Shirazflavoured tannic palate. $22 Viognier 2009 HHH Fragrant plum aromas with a big hit of apricot characters, Ph: +618 8389 7706 and more apricots on the facebook.com/barristersblock fleshy palate. $24.99 barristersblock.com.au BBW104 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 137 BBW104 Crushed Wine State Magazine 270x59.indd 13/3/11 12:03:03 PM

ADELAIDE HILLSSHIRAZ Deviation Road Tomich Hill Adelaide Hills Paracombe Adelaide Hills Reserve Adelaide Hills Syrah 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH18 TASTED Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Nose offers a lovely lift of Savoury smoky/meaty nose13 AWARDED Great nose - ink and black sweet plum and apricot and red fruit palate with firm,Very strong class of well-made olives meet cherry fruit. Lovely aromas. Palate a nice blend drying tannins. $21wines. “These had lovely creamy-textured palate with of red fruits with judiciously Hahndorf Hill Wineryspicy characters and good fruit good hit of varietal fruit, some applied oak. Looking good! $30 HHW Adelaide Hills Shirazweight in elegant structure,” well-handled oak and then the Stable Hill Adelaide Hills 2008 HHHnoted one judge. tannins at the end. $38 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Lovely concoction of creamy Bird in Hand Big, vibrant hit of blackberry raspberry fruit, chocolatySolstice Adelaide Hills Nest Egg Adelaide Hills aromas, followed by some good oak and interesting savouryShiraz 2007 HHHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH intensity of sweet fleshy fruits elements. $30“Wow!” Nose has great Intense, concentrated colour, on the creamy palate. $19.95complexity - a compote of fruit, ripe, pungent nose and supple, Paracombe Totino Estate Adelaidefresh earth and wild ferment fleshy palate. A very good wine Somerville Adelaide Hills Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHcharacters. Lovely range of - “very consumer-friendly”, Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Spicy raspberry/plum aromassweet, warm, earthy flavours. according to one judge. $75 “Maturing gracefully with a complemented by earthy“Wine of the day for me,” said Wicks Estate Adelaide decade ahead of it,” said one notes. Much the same for theone judge. $38 Hills Shiraz 2009 HHHH judge. Plenty of dark, savoury fruit palate. $18.95 Bright nose projects aromas with coffee/mocha notes. $69 Longview Yakka Adelaide of black fruits, cola and The Pawn Hills Shiraz 2008 HHH licorice. Warm, nicely textured Jeu De Fin Adelaide Hills Peppery plum and blackcurrant palate with pure varietal fruit Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 nose and a juicy mouthful of expression. Simple but nice. $19 Fragrant concentration of berry/plum flavours. Excellent redcurrant, plum and spice tannins. $27 aromas, with some generous flavours on the grippy palate. $30 Nepenthe Gate Block Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2008 HHH Fragrant red berry aromas with a lush, juicy plum palate. Good level of tannins. $38Fine wine collection for sale includes: Lafite Margaux Latour Haute-Brion Mouton Romanee-Conti Petrus138Wine.inWdd I1N E S TAT E May/June 2011 Over 2000 bottles will sell complete collection or individual bottles contact: [email protected] 18/01/2011 15:59

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide HillsBetween heaven and earthTucked away in the cool green Hills, our vineyard is home to new-wave wines, including Grüner Veltliner and Blaufränkisch. Visit our website to discover more. www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

128 TASTED91 AWARDEDSWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDOne of our best tastings of these sweeter wines. Dare we say LATE HARVESTthat the lesser producers have been weeded out and the quality SWEET WHITEproducers remain? The best here are world-class and well worthsipping with a group of friends. 13 TASTED 8 AWARDEDOTHER SWEET Traditions Penfolds Cellar “Balance between Sandbar EstateWHITES Sea Breeze White Reserve Barossa sugar and fruit intensity Victoria Late Harvest McLaren Vale Valley Viognier is critical,” said one Chenin Blanc 20096 TASTED Chardonnay 2010 HHH judge. “It has also (375ml) HHH1/25 AWARDED NV HHHH Smells of melons become a lost art where Gooseberry-likeA good solid bracket of Attractive, golden-hued, and has some the better producers elements to the nosewell-made wines with nicely balanced, sweet complexity developing shine.” Freshness is and rich, zesty tropicaldiffering levels of sugar white wine with loads of and loads of sweet fruit most important and any flavours showing goodbalanced by appropriate toasty aged characters flavours. $24.99 browning in colour is a level of complexity. $15acid levels. adding plenty of Preece Dolce Bianco possible indication of flat, Centennial character. $13.95 2010 HHH oxidised fruit flavours. Vineyards AutumnKellermeister Eden Skuttlebutt Savvy Subdued melon pulp NSW Late HarvestValley Eiswein 2010 Margaret River nose and broad, semi- Gapsted Wines Chardonnay 2009(375ml) HHHH Sauvignon Blanc sweet, varietal fruit Mountain Gold King (375ml) HHH1/2Luminous golden wine 2010 HHH flavours. $15 Valley Late Harvest Broad orange-like botrytiswith perfumed, lychee-like Herbaceous aromas Semillon 2009 characters on the nosebouquet and very sweet, and green fruit flavours (500ml) HHHHH and a rich luscioussoft, well-balanced balanced by considerable Beautifully complex, concentration of sweetpalate that mirrors the sugar sweetness. $19 aromatic nose with fruit flavours. $25nose. “Chill it,” said one botrytis characters Wakefield Valleyjudge. $18.90 showing through. Vintage Nectar Luscious botrytis Wakefield Valley complexity on the palate Riesling Viognier with myriad flavours 2008 HHH and well-balanced acid/ Very oaky, resinous sugar. $19 CD nose with marmalade characters, and very Brokenwood Wines sweet palate with nice Umpire’s Vineyard nuttiness. $15 Cowra Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008 (375ml) HHHH Huge, ripe apricot bouquet with elements of lime juice. Rich, luscious palate full of sweet fruit flavours with great acid backbone. $22140 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

varietal tastingMr Riggs Sticky Trentham Estate Gibson Loose Saddler’s Creek Gramp’s BotrytisEnd McLaren Vale La Famiglia Moscato End Moscato Wines NSW Botrytis Semillon 2008Viognier 2010 2010 HHHH Barossa Valley Supreme 2008 (375ml) HHHH1/2(375ml) HHH Elegant floral bouquet Moscato NV HHH (375ml) HHHHH Deep golden wine with aPerfumed nose with with distinct muscat Greenish nose with light Appealing apricot lovely complexity of toffeesome fruit. Broad, sweet elements. Fresh, crisp floral notes, and a crisp, characters on the and malt and more of thepalate - simple but has and green palate with green and well-balanced nose, laced with toasty toffee/malt complexitygood fruit. $22 good structure and sweet palate. $13.99 complexity. Very on the lusciously sweet balance. $14 flavoursome, raisined palate. “An excellentAuldstone Patritti South NOBLE palate high in acid. Great attempt,” agreed theGlenrowan Late Australia Moscato BOTRYTIS length and balance. $36 judges. $19.99Picked Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 SWEET WHITE Mitchelton Buller Beverford2004 HHH Simple, zesty Blackwood Park Gold VictoriaAged melon nose and passionfruit aromas 18 TASTED Central Victoria Botrytis Semillonnicely balanced soft sweet with a muscat lift. Great 15 AWARDED Botrytis Riesling 2010 (375ml) HHHHmature flavours. $18 CD tropical fruit characters 2010 HHHH1/2 Huge, complex on the palate. Well- Very strong class. Golden wine with huge, bouquet with a kero-likeReillys Late Picked made wine. $8.80 “Can you go wrong?” complex concentration development. Rich,Riesling 2005 HHH asked one judge. “The of toffee and raisined sweet, tropical fruitBeautifully aged golden great ones were from fruit aromas. Everything palate well balanced bywine that still shows stunning fruit and from big on the palate - the some zesty acidity. $20good sweet varietal fruit winemakers who have fruit, the acid and thecharacters. $18 been making these wines luscious sweetness. $20 for a few years.” BotrytisLATE HARVEST can be tricky during poorMUSCAT years so stick with the& MOSCATO better makers.STYLES McWilliams Wines9 TASTED Morning Light3 AWARDED Riverina Botrytis Semillon 2008These styles need (375ml) HHHHHto be fresh and lively Gorgeous, lifted, ripe,rather than big and lemony bouquet withconcentrated. They traces of apricot-likehave their own inherent botrytis characters.spiciness and just need Amazingly rich, lusciousto be kept simple! palate with huge hit of flavours and long, clean finish. $24.99SIMON HACKETTFourth generation, Barossa Valley born, TRADE ENQUIRIES:Winemaker Simon Hackett established his winery S.A. Chace Agencies 08 8363 7881 [email protected] a fertile hill overlooking McLaren Vale over VIC Working Wine 0407 053 663 [email protected] years ago. Simon Hackett produces a stunning NSW Estate Wine Distributors [email protected] of wines including the very popular limited QLD Estate Wine Distributors 0405 106 207 [email protected] Anthony's Reserve Shiraz and Foggo UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Drop into Hong Kong - Vins de France Corp (ABS Asia Ltd) [email protected] cellar door for a tasting and take in the Simon Hackett Wines, Budgens Road, McLaren Valestunning panoramic views. (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 141

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDHeggies Vineyard Gibson Barossa All Saints Patritti Marion 919 Limited ReleaseEden Valley Botrytis Valley Botrytis The Keep Victoria South Australia Touriga Tinta RorizRiesling 2010 Semillon 2009 Golden Cream Liqueur Verdelho Tinta Cao Shiraz(375ml) HHHH (375ml) HHH Sherry NV HHHH 1977 (500ml) HHHH Durif 2009 HHH1/2Projects lovely malty/ Deep golden wine with Sweet, lifted, perfumed Oaky complexity to Jubey-sweet bouquettoffee-like aromas and complex, toasty nose, muscat fruit bouquet. the nose with nutty and blackberry jamhas a seamless balance underlying fruit and lolly- Soft, round and creamy rancio and lifted raisined palate with spicy layers,of fresh fruit and tight, sweet palate. $22 in the mouth, with fresh aromas and luscious good spirit, high acid andclean acid on the palate. fruit and nutty toffee toffee flavours; good nice tannins. $50Some nice botrytis Annie’s Lane Clare elements. $16 rancio and aged oak. $45evident. $28.95 Valley Botrytis Auldstone Late BottleDe Bortoli Noble Riesling 2009 Morris Rare Chambers Rosewood Victoria Vintage PortOne NSW Botrytis (375ml) HHH Old Premium Ruby Port NV HHH1/2 2005 HHHSemillon 2008 Fresh green apple Amontillado Sherry Sweet plum fruit nose Aged licorice nose with(375ml) HHHH aromas and zingy, sweet NV (500ml) HHH1/2 with excellent spirit lift. minty lift, and luscious,Biscuity aromas mingle lemon flavours with Lovely complex, sweet, Youthful, sweet shiraz ripe, sweet blackberrywith pineapple-like creamy texture. $25 nutty aromas. Powerful, fruit on the palate, palate. Hot finish. $32characters. Very sweet, oak-driven palate with a with a hot finish. Verywith a luscious mouthfeel Bimbadgen Estate touch of alcohol heat and young. $10 TAWNY PORTand plenty of flavour. $32 Myall Road Botrytis flavour vitality. $54.99 UNDER $20De Bortoli Vat 5 Semillon 2007 Sandalford WinesBotrytis Semillon (375ml) HHH OTHER Sandalera Swan 8 TASTED2007 (375ml) HHH1/2 Drier style - some FORTIFIED Valley Pedro 6 AWARDEDComplex nose with botrytis evident and with STYLES Ximinez Verdelhoa slight hessian a touch of oak tannin & BLENDS NV (500ml) HHH Consistent class ofsuggestion. Finely adding complexity. $26 Sweet white style with excellent-value wines!structured, elegant 10 TASTED raisined fruit and nicepalate with good botrytis Hollick Wines The 4 AWARDED aged characters, but has Morris Black Labelelements. $13.90 Nectar Coonawarra freshness. $90 Victoria Old TawnyFlametree Frankland Botrytis 2010 Confusing list of NV HHH1/2River Botrytis (375ml) HHH fortifieds but interesting VINTAGE Fresh, youthful styleRiesling 2010 Heavy toffee nose with to see the amount of FORTIFIED with lovely lift of plum(375ml) HHH a hint of tea leaves and experimentation going aromas on the nose andCrisp, zesty lemon aromas malt. High sugar palate; on with different varietals 6 TASTED a palate rich with nutty,and excellent, elegant big VA lift. $24 used and different styles 3 AWARDED raisined flavours. $12palate with complex fruit being made. Pick theflavours. $28 SHERRY better examples. A couple of good wines Orlando LiqueurHolm Oak TGR but the others were Tawny NV HHH1/2Tasmania Riesling 4 TASTED De Bortoli generally disappointing, Youthful nutty/fruity2010 HHH 3 AWARDED Black Noble NV with either poor spirit or bouquet with aBroad, developing nose (375ml) HHHH too much oak. spirity lift. Rich andand cordial-sweet palate Something for Elegant, drier style chocolaty in the mouth.with lots of acid to everyone here, ranging with a complex range Myattsfield Kenneth Luscious mouthfeel andmatch. $25 from dry to sweet and of fruit flavours, high Green Carmel big oak. $16.99Yalumba FSW8B everything in between. level of acidity, strong Valley VintageWrattonbully oak and quite buttery- Fortified 2008 Penfolds ClubBotrytis Viognier Morris of Rutherglen like finish. $34 (500ml) HHHH1/2 Reserve Classic2009 (375ml) HHH Mia Fino Victoria Deep red wine, almost Tawny NV HHHFloral aromatics and Sherry NV HHHH purple. Nose rich with Youthful, perfumedsoft, simple muscat/ Burnt toffee and nutty licorice, jam and spicy aromas and young,tropical palate with quite development to the aromas. Elegant palate sweet and hot in thetart acidity. $29.95 nose, with good nutty with velvety tannins mouth. $14.99 flavours on a well- and intense licorice fruit balanced palate with flavours. Great spirit. $28 nice level of acidity. $12JUDGES James Godfrey Fil Scarpantoni Neil Jericho Chief fortified winemaker Vineyard Manager and General manager of for Treasury Wines (formerly director of Scarpantoni Taylors Wines. Former Fosters Wine Group). Senior Wines for the past 27 winemaker for Brown wine show judge on the years. Judge at the Brothers in North Australian National wine McLaren Vale wine show. East Victoria. Regular shows. Member of the Likes the Italian ‘SlowFood’ fortified wine judge. Australian Wine Export judging wine philosophy. panel regulating the quality of wines sent overseas.142 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

varietal tastingAll Saints The Keep Morris Rare Old Morris FiveVictoria Tawny Port Premium Rare Tawny Generations CellarNV HHH NV (500ml) HHHHH Reserve VictoriaSweet, nutty nose and Very complex style. Grand Tawny NVsoft, sweet, tawny palate. Huge tarry/chocolaty (500ml) HHHH1/2Well-balanced wine. $16 nose with intense Massive chocolaty nose blackberry and ripe with smoky touches.James Haselgrove fig aromas. Massively Huge oak charactersWines 10 YO Tawny rich palate - all age and dominate the thick, warmNV HHH flavour intensity and palate with its great fruitSome nice age complexity with a long, lingering concentration and intensehere, with a broad rancio finish. $54.99 rancio elements. $35nose and sweet, spicy, 919 Classic Tawnyraisined flavours. $16 NV (500ml) HHHHH Penfolds Spicy, fresh, nutty nose Grandfather LiqueurReillys Blue with good lift of spirit Port NV HHHHTongue Tawny Port and oak. Powerful palate Toasty caramel aromasNV (500ml) HHH high in acid and threaded with a fruity lift. WonderfulMore of a sweet red with through with balancing palate - huge length,low level rancio characters rancio characters and great structure, quiteand oaky aromas. $18 clean spirit. $20 sweet and with good Mount Prior Ibis rancio flavours. $99.99TAWNY PORT Special CellarOVER $20 Selection Reserve Seppeltsfield De Bortoli Old Boys Grant Burge 10 Museum South East Para Vintage Tawny Old Tawny NV HHHH YO Barossa Valley23 TASTED Australia Port NV Tawny 1990 Elegant, classical tawny Tawny NV HHHH18 AWARDED (375ml) HHHHH (100ml) HHHH1/2 smelling of raisins and Lovely freshness and Big, sweet and powerful Beautiful combination vanilla. Fresh and complex complexity on the nose;Superb group of wines style with a big hit of of lush, spicy fruit, very palate with some great smells of nuts and sweetthat are world-class! hot spirit and lovely fresh, intense oak, nutty toasty oak and slight tarry plums. Luscious balanceThese range from the lifted, toasty, nutty age. toffee rancio characters, elements. $42 of flavours on the long,elegant to the massive; Thick, rich and luscious clean acid and some elegant palate. $30light and fresh and palate with bottle age great spirit. Still veryyouthful to wines and freshness; great youthful. $75exhibiting great aged rancio. $25complexity in perfect Gapsted Wines was now was nowbalance with alcohol and Limited Release Oldtannins. A stunning array Tawny NV HHHH1/2 $260 $150 $440 $250of tawny styles. Very fresh style with loads of lovely young vanillin oak was now was nowYaldara 40 Year characters, which are wellOld South Australia matched by rich, sweet $320$180 $500$270Rare Tawny NV rancio characters. Has(500ml) HHHHH structure and balance. was now was nowInteresting wine with Good value. $27CDpowerful nutty, rancio Yaldara 20 Year $276$150 $320$180bouquet, loads of Old Special Agedlicorice and lovely fresh South Australiaspirit lift. Gorgeous fig Aged Tawny NVjam of a palate, great (500ml) HHHH1/2acid spine, good age and Excellent yellow/greenfreshness. $150 tinges to this powerful wine with nutty rancio,Yaldara 30 Year toffee characters, fresh,Old Special Aged complex oak, strongSouth Australia acid, slight olive notesAged Tawny NV and some great age. $50(500ml) HHHHHGreat bouquet; strongapricot/lemon blossomelements and hugeage rancio. The palateshows both power andelegance, with lovelyfreshness and intensefruit flavours. $100 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 143

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDPenfolds Bluestone Morris Classic Tawny Morris Rare Burnbrae Mudgee Baileys of10 Year Old Grand NV (500ml) HHH Old Premium Liqueur Muscat NV Glenrowan FounderTawny NV HHHH Broad, chocolaty nose has Liqueur Muscat NV (375ml) HHHH Series GlenrowanSweet floral bouquet light nutty age. Simple, (500ml) HHHHH Complex toffee/muscat Muscat NV HHHHwith distinct apricot raisined fruit flavours with Deep colour verging nose with strong rancio Aromas intense andnote, and clean spicy/ hot spirit. $22.99 on black. Excellent characters. Nicely reminiscent of raisinsminty cabernet fruit muscat floral lift off the structured palate. Rich, and sweet apricots.obvious on the palate, MUSCAT nose that mingles with powerful flavours, Sweet concentration ofwith strong oak and huge age complexity. good oak tannins and flavours on the lusciousgood age. $24.99 24 TASTED Powerful palate; developing well. $25 palate. Good acidGalway Pipe South 19 AWARDED hugely rich, sweet and balance and grip. $24.99Australia Grand flavoursome. Amazing Michael UnwinTawny NV HHH1/2 “This uniquely Australian freshness. $74.99 Wines Tattooed LadyGreat potential. Lifted style has been developed Morris of Rutherglen Beaufort Muscat NVfruit and spicy oak on to excellence,” said Cellar Reserve (375ml) HHH1/2the nose, with lovely one judge. “There’s a Grand Liqueur Developed muscat fruitbalance and freshness difference in house style, Muscat NV HHHHH characters showing niceto the palate. $36.99 with various levels of Intense aged characters age. The nose is hugeDe Bortoli sweetness and complexity on the nose, with and the palate full and8 Year Old Tawny - but all great to try.” concentration of floral lingering. $26Port NV HHH aromas and some Mount PriorBurnt toffee aromas with Morris Black Label tropicals. Huge, sweet Directors Selectionhints of Bonox. Palate has Victoria Liqueur palate with raisined Rutherglen Muscatexcellent fruit, complexity Muscat NV HHHHH flavours. Lovely intense NV (375ml) HHHand freshness. $23 Fresh, lifted floral/ and balanced style. $35 Powerful, beautifullySaltram Wine Estate raisined bouquet - just De Bortoli Show balanced wine - lusciousMr Pickwick’s a hint of rose petals. NSW Liqueur Muscat and rich, with raisinedSouth Australia Rare Lovely palate weight - NV HHHH1/2 fruit and vanillin oak. $20Tawny NV HHH very elegant, with more Very deep aged toffee/ Stella Bella WinesSimple, sweet of the rose petal notes. fruit bouquet - huge Margaret Riverstyle - slight rancio Great balance. Sweet and complex. Luscious, Pink Muscat 2010characters. Still young but not cloying. $12 aged and tarry in the (375ml) HHHbut has the potential to mouth, with lovely Simple floral aromas andbe great. $71.99 McWilliams concentration of flavours a crisp, delicate palateRosemount Old Show Reserve and age intensity. $23 with more of the fruity/Benson South Grand Muscat NV All Saints Rutherglen floral characters. $19Eastern Australia Old (500ml) HHHHH Grand Muscat NV Grant BurgeTawny Port NV HHH This thick, viscous (375ml) HHHH1/2 10 YO Barossa ValleyHot, nutty nose with wine is all age but with Dense and black, with Muscat NV HHHdistinctive vanillin lift. excellent freshness. huge age characters and Very elegant, withSoft, round and fresh in Massive and intensely lovely aniseed-like fruit strong muscatthe mouth, with loads of flavoursome. Loads of aromas and flavours characters of raisinsacid. $40 spicy characters layered threaded through with and dried figs and some with coffee and vanilla toffee, vanilla and coffee good age. $30 characters. $75 beans. Very fresh. $65 STAR RATINGS  Morris Classic Buller Fine Riversands Major Liqueur Muscat NV Old Victoria Muscat Mitchell St GeorgeThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of (500ml) HHHH1/2 NV HHHH Qld White Muscatexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Superb muscat; lovely Fantastic figgy 2009 HHHAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry colour with yellowy- fragrances with hints of Light lychee fruitprofessionals and are compared in peer green hues. Complex, rose petals. Incredibly characters with grassy/classes by three judges. fruity aromas with aged sweet palate with lemony elements. NicelyCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, characters and lifted great concentration of aged sweet white. $15.50a major mail-order business. freshness. Soft, luscious orange peel and raisined All SaintsCD Cellar door price. palate with mouthfilling flavours. $22 Rutherglen MuscatCDO Cellar door only. toffee flavours. $22.99 NV HHHSO Sold out. Yaldara 20 Year Old Light rose petal aromatics$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Special Issue South and soft and thick in the Australia Muscat NV mouth, with intense, Contact information pg 160. (500ml) HHHH sweet flavours. $20 Deep tawny-red wine, RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). complex and rich on the nose. Delicious toffee fruit flavours with a good VA lift. Plenty of length and a lingering finish. $50144 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

varietal tasting919 Muscat All Saints RutherglenNV (500ml) HHH Grand Tokay NVAttractive lemon sherbet (375ml) HHHH1/2bouquet with a dash of Smells of toffee andapricot, and powerful, rhubarb pie - “Yum”raisined flavours. $35 was one comment! Oily mouthfeel withRiversands lifted malty/toffee appleSt George Golden flavour complexityLiqueur Muscat NV and a clean, crisp acid(500ml) HHH backbone. $65Raisin-sweet nose with Mount Priortoffee threads. Very Director’s Selectionsweet muscat flavours; Rutherglenhot finish. $25 Muscadelle Tokay NV (375ml) HHHHTOKAY Sugar candy nose - almost sherry-like - and10 TASTED lovely and luscious in10 AWARDED the mouth, with fresh acid, lovely tannins andAnother superb class, sweet toffee finish. $19with rich, viscous wines Morris Classicto the fore. Liqueur Tokay NVGreat consistency, (500ml) HHHHranging from younger to Burnt toffee meets driedwell-aged examples. apricots and leads to a luscious sweet toffeeMorris Rare apple palate with tracesOld Premium of cherry-like fruit. ALiqueur Tokay NV touch hot. $22.99(500ml) HHHHH Buller Fine OldNose shouts of ripe figs Victoria Tokayand raisins with a huge NV HHH1/2vanillin lift. Rich liqueur Complex toffee/fairy flosspalate with massive bouquet. More toffeeaged characters and characters on the palate.intense concentration Good age and lovely oilyof sweet dried fruit mouthfeel. $22flavours. $74.99Morris Of Rutherglen Chambers RosewoodCellar Reserve RutherglenGrand Liqueur Tokay Muscadelle NV HHHNV (500ml) HHHHH Oily/malty toffeeElegant, seamlessly nose with hot spiritbalanced wine with lift. Youthful palatedense hues showing reminiscent of cold teagreenish-yellow tinges. and fish oil. $16Intense complexity All Saintsof malt and toffee Rutherglen Tokaycharacters with hints of NV HHHtoffee apple. Amazing Rich and ripe, withflavour length. $35 complex aged fruitBaileys of Glenrowan elements, toffeeFounder Series sweetness and slightGlenrowan Classic smokiness. $20Tokay NV HHHH1/2 Chambers RosewoodProjects toffee and cold Rutherglentea aromas with very Old Vine Muscadelleslight fish oil traces. NV (375ml) HHHSimilar characters Smells of candiedmirrored on the palate. apples with malty/Very powerful flavours mocha notes. Creamyshowing depth and in the mouth, withlength. $24.99 complex flavours. $50 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 145

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNELSON & WAIRARAPAFROM PADDOCK TO PLUSH What has been described as “an elegant to the Wairarapa, and is right opposite the shed” has since been joined by a barrel harbour and New Zealand’s impressiveTRADING city life for the country air of hall and lab, a storage area, and, in 1994, national museum, Te Papa.the Wairarapa has paid off for the owners a red wine winery. The gardens andof The Summit Lodge in Gladstone - Jim grounds play host to regular concerts and Hippopotamus, the hotel’s award-winningKettle and Tracey O'Callaghan - whose new the Country Occasion, a spring market day restaurant, offers harbour views andaccommodation venture has already won held every second year that celebrates the French-style cuisine by chef Laurentawards. They built and developed the lodge diversity of the artisans and producers of Loudeac. It hosts regular wine dinners andusing sustainability principles and doing much the Nelson region. Neudorf Vineyards is at pre- and post-theatre meals. There is alsoof the work themselves. Summit Lodge is one 138 Neudorf Rd, Upper Moutere; phone an on-site hairdressing salon and day spa,of only four Wairarapa tourism operations to +64 3 543 2643; www.neudorf.co.nz. along with indoor heated lap pool, spa pool,be awarded Qualmark Enviro Gold awards, sauna and fitness centre. Entry-level roomsalongside Wharekauhau Country Estate, ARTISTIC boast queen-size beds, writing desks,Castlepoint Holiday Park & Motels and ACCOMMODATION satellite television and high-speed internet,Parehua Country Estate in Martinborough. while the upmarket Chaffers Studios are in WELLINGTON’S Museum Hotel is a place the residential wing and enjoy views over From a bare paddock in 2008, The to stay with a difference - with owner Chaffers Dock and the harbour. Phone +64Summit Lodge is today a five-star rural Chris Parkin’s extensive and eclectic art 4 802 8900; www.museumhotel.co.nz.retreat offering a child-free experience collection on permanent display in thefor busy corporates, weary travellers or public areas of the hotel. The 165-room COOL DESTINATIONfood and wine lovers looking for a country boutique hotel at 90 Cable St is in the centrehaven. There is a maximum of six guests of the New Zealand capital, and gateway WELLINGTON, often derided as wet andat any one time. windy, has become a gourmet and nightlife hotspot with a wide range of great spots Purpose-built with three king/twin rooms to eat and drink. Lonely Planet recently(each with en suite bathroom, internet named it ‘the coolest little capital in theconnection and iPod docks), the lodge world’ and one of the top 10 places to visitalso provides ‘dinner party-style’ evening in 2011. On weekend nights, Wellingtonmeals. Pre-dinner drinks and canapes buzzes with crowds flocking to placesalways feature local wine labels such as such as The Library, a late-night bar,Johner, Fairmont and Paulownia Estate and Cuckoo Cocktail Emporium, Foxglove, Themenus highlight vegetables and herbs from Apartment, Motel and Hope Bros.the lodge garden, along with locally raisedlamb and venison, local cheese and olive Matterhorn, on lively Cuba St, is a late-nightoils. The Summit Lodge is at 4 Admiral Rd, hangout for Wellington movers and shakersGladstone; phone +64 6 372 7757; www. and regularly wins awards as New Zealand’ssummitlodge.co.nz. best bar. Tucked away down an unpromising corridor, it also serves top-notch food, hasMAGNET FOR VISITORSTHE NEUDORF cellar door is an enduringNelson favourite, open 363 days a year.Visitors are welcome from 11am-5pm everyday except Christmas Day and New Year’sDay - and later in the height of summer -and are invited to enjoy a tasting or picnicin the gardens. In addition to the wines, thecellar door also sells Neudorf sheep andcow’s cheese, olive oils and crackers, andwines purchased can be couriered home. Owners Tim and Judy Finn, who recentlycelebrated 30 vintages, built their wineryin 1980, adapting an 1850 stables block.146 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

travelbriefsgreat cocktails and an admirable wine list. dishes such as spicy fish cakes with cured Marlborough salmon served withThere’s an outdoor courtyard that’s popular minted cucumber and pineapple pickle, a mini clam fondue) and house-curedin the summer months. or kippered warehou on pork and prawn lamb and duck, lightly smoked, served kedgeree with nam prik relish. with organic rocket, lemon chutney and At the Cuckoo Cocktail Emporium, a champagne vinaigrette.quirky cocktail lounge/wine bar from the The Ambeli, Ortega Fish Shack andsame stable as popular duo Hawthorn Martin Bosley’s were all recognised in the Main course features include oven-Lounge and Hooch, it’s not only the drinks Cuisine Restaurant of the Year Awards for roasted salmon with fennel celery andthat are for sale - but also the furniture, 2010. There are some great places to stay, honeydew salad finished with whiteartworks and even the pool table. too, ranging from the chic boutique Bolton balsamic and truffle oil; and lamb rack Hotel, which has particularly friendly and crepinette with a mushroom and lamb fillet Foxglove is a popular after-work venue, efficient staff, to the hotel in the seaside farce served on kumara rosti with seasonalbig and packed to the rafters on Friday and neighbourhood of Oriental Bay. green vegetables. The restaurant is openSaturday nights, while The Apartment is a seven days for breakfast, dinner and high teas on Sundays from 2-4pm. The resort is on Point Road, Monaco; phone +64 3 547 8233; www.monacoresort.co.nz.New York-style lounge bar just off party ADMIRABLE NELSON LIBRARY’S LATEST LIFEcentral on Courtenay Place. Motel is astylish cocktail lounge, and Hope Bros is THE GRAND Mercure Nelson Monaco GREYTOWN has a new destinationa popular bar and restaurant on Dixon St. Resort is a delightfully relaxed base from for wine lovers: the recently opened which to explore local wineries including Wairarapa Wine Cellar, an historic formerCULINARY CAPITAL Seifried, Kahurangi Estate, Waimea library building, once a Masonic lodge, Estates and Neudorf - the region is home that now has polished wood floors andEVEN if it does occasionally get wet and cold, to 23 in total. With cottages, the restaurant wall-to-wall wine shelves. The polishedNew Zealand’s capital offers plenty of places and other facilities in a village-like setting, oak counter has been described by localsto keep warm and well-fed, including some of the award-winning resort is landscaped as being reminiscent of a wine barrel, andthe country’s top restaurants in Logan Brown, around a stream and village green. an alcove in the corner houses works fromthe Boulcott Street Bistro and Martin Bosley’s various local artists.Yacht Club, along with a huge choice of cafes There are 33 one-bedroom cottages,and wine bars on Cuba St. 25 two-bedroom cottages and 19 hotel Wines featured are from around rooms. The cottages all have living Gladstone, East Taratahi, Opaki and On my most recent visit, I had an excellent rooms with high ceilings, Sky TV, internet Matahiwi, along with a small selectionmeal at the buzzy Ortega Fish Shack & Bar, connections, dining rooms, writing desks, from Martinborough. Many smalla thoroughly modern seafood restaurant sideboards and gas fires, plus country- vineyards without their own cellarwith European influences and a very friendly style kitchens with stove hob, refrigerator doors, such as Urlar, Borthwick andvibe, along with a terrific wine list - including and washing machine. Blairpatrick, are able to showcase theirdozens by the glass and an impressive wares at the new facility.Spanish and Portuguese selection. Think Menu choices in The Orangerie restaurant include starters such as Kai The building, at 115 Main St, is owned by Moana (seared Nelson scallops and South Wairarapa District Council and had been unused since 2007. It is open daily 10am-6pm, with a different winery featured each week. Phone +64 6 304 7191; www.winecentre.co.nz. Left: Grand Mercure Hotel Monaco Resort and the Orangerie Restaurant. Right: Wairarapa Wine Cellar vineyards. Opposite page Above: Wellington’s Museum Hotel lobby. Below: The Summit Lodge courtyard spa. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 147

97 TASTED74 AWARDEDNELSON & WAIRARAPAA highly impressive tasting of wines from two of New Palliser Estate Brightwater NelsonZealand’s smaller regions, which share strengths in cool- Martinborough Pinot Gris Sauvignon Blancclimate chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, aromatic whites 2009 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHHand pinot noir. Overall, Nelson took the honours in the Fresh, finely balanced wine ‘Sweaty’, ripe-fruit aromas.white wine classes, while the Wairarapa excelled with with very good depth of Weighty and well-rounded,pinot noir. peachy, citrusy, spicy flavours with rich, tropical fruit and unobtrusive sweetness. flavours, slightly oily andPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Maturing very gracefully. $25 concentrated. $20 (A, UK, US)Wines available in export markets are shown as Richmond Plains(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Te Mania Nelson Pinot Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Gris 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHSPARKLING Brightwater Lord Full-bodied, with fresh, ripe Crisp, ripe, tropical fruit Rutherford Nelson Pinot citrus, lychee and spice flavours. flavours. Good weight and1 TASTED Gris 2010 HHHH1/2 Softly textured, with pure, clearly intensity, with some herbal Rich and oily, medium-dry defined varietal characters, a notes adding interest. Certified1 AWARDED style with vibrant melon, pear touch of sweetness and good organic. Enjoyed by all and spice flavours, showing length. $22 (A, UK, US) panellists. $20 (A, UK, US) excellent concentration and harmony. Slightly creamy, with Takutai Nelson Urlar Gladstone Sauvignon a long finish. $30 Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Blanc 2010 HHHH Single-vineyard wine from ‘Sweaty armpit’ aromas leadPalliser Estate Brightwater Nelson Pinot Waimea Estate, grown on the into a fleshy, well-rounded,Martinborough Methode Gris 2010 HHHH Waimea Plains, with plenty of northern Wairarapa wine withTraditionnelle 2006 HHHH Scented, with fresh, ripe pear, spicy, slightly sweet, smooth ripe nectarine and passionfruitSatisfying, fresh and lively wine lychee and spice flavours, flavour. Soft and ready. flavours, a hint of herbs, andwith good weight, vigour and showing excellent delicacy, A bargain at $12. (A, UK, US) excellent concentration. $22.50harmony. Crisp, yeasty, toasty harmony and length. Distinctly Burnt Spurflavours, showing excellent medium style, well-rounded Tussock Nelson Martinborough Sauvignoncomplexity and richness. $35 and rich. (Grown in the Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Moutere hills.) $25 Lively, well-balanced wine with Lively, ripe style with citrusy, Renato Nelson Pinot Gris fresh, ripe, citrusy, slightly spicy limey flavours and hints of 2010 HHHH flavours, a sliver of sweetness passionfruit and herbs. Fresh and Ripely scented, with good and decent depth. Priced right. lingering (from Martinborough richness, delicacy and harmony. (From Woollaston.) $15 Vineyard). $18 (A) Slightly sweet style with fresh Palliser Estate stone-fruit and spice flavours, Waimea Nelson Martinborough Sauvignon well-rounded and long. $22 Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Distinctly spicy bouquet. High-impact style, dry andPINOT GRIS Richmond Plains Nelson Good depth of peachy, spicy lively, with strong passionfruit Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH flavour, with a gentle splash of and herb flavours, very fresh15 TASTED Fleshy, lemony and spicy. sweetness and fresh acidity. and crisp. Verging on four10 AWARDED Distinctly medium style with $22 (A, UK, US) stars. $23 good weight, concentration Blackenbrook NelsonNelson’s strength with and length. Certified organic. SAUVIGNON Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHaromatic white wine varieties $20 (A, UK, US) BLANC Ripe style, fresh, crisp andwas clear in this class, with Rimu Grove Nelson Pinot lively, with some complexity.several producers succeeding Gris 2010 HHHH 16 TASTED Passionfruit and melon flavours,with sturdy, richly scented and Mouthfilling, with a slightly 13 AWARDED with good mouthfeel. $21.50 (A)flavour-packed wines in the oily texture and concentrated,classic Alsace mould. citrusy, spicy, leesy flavours. Solid class of appetising, vividly Weighty, medium-dry style, varietal wines, aromatic, fresh showing excellent complexity and crisp, with good acid drive and length. $29 (A) and cool-climate herbal notes.148 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

regional tastingKina Beach Estuary Te Mania Nelson Sauvignon Te Mania Nelson MartinboroughBlock Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Riesling 2010 HHHH Vineyard Bruno RieslingBlanc 2010 HHH Herbaceous aromas and flavours, Floral, high-toned bouquet. 2010 HHH1/2Fresh, medium-bodied style, fresh and strong. Lean, vibrant Punchy and vibrant, with strong, Lively, low-alcohol, Moselwith lively, citrusy, limey and green-edged, with cut grass, citrusy, limey flavours and a style, limey and gently sweet,flavours, finely balanced and lime and capsicum notes to the fresh, dryish, crisp finish that with good vigour and a hint oflingering. $20 fore. $19 (A, UK, US) lingers well. $19 (A, UK, US) sherbet. $27Matahiwi Holly Wairarapa Waimea Nelson Sauvignon Martinborough Vineyard Richmond Plains NelsonSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Blanc 2010 HHH Riesling 2010 HHHH Riesling 2010 HHHBarrel-fermented style with Punchy, strongly varietal Elegant, lemon-scented, very Fresh, light, citrusy, appleyripe fruit flavours, tight and wine, crisp and lively. Good youthful wine. Lean, tightly and limey, with a touch ofyouthful. Toasty and slightly weight and purity of fruit structured, crisp and dry, sweetness and an easy-drinkingherbal, with some ageing flavours, including gooseberry, with excellent depth and balance. Certified as in transitionpotential. $26 (A, UK) passionfruit, capsicum and delicacy of pure, citrusy, limey to organic. $20 (A, UK, US) herbs. $18.50 flavours, and obvious cellaringOld Coach Road Nelson potential. $27 (A) CHARDONNAYSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH RIESLINGRipely scented, with good weight Ant Moore Nelson 15 TASTEDand fresh, tropical fruit flavours, 11 TASTED Riesling 2010 HHHH 15 AWARDEDshowing some richness (from 9 AWARDED Ripely scented, with fine,Seifried Estate). $17 (A, UK, US) Strong class, with both regions focused citrus fruit and spice Outstanding class, with theRenato Nelson Sauvignon offering rich, vigorous, cool- flavours, fresh, slightly sweet honours spread evenly betweenBlanc 2010 HHH climate rieslings, and the 2009 and concentrated. $23 (A) Nelson and the Wairarapa.Minerally, limey bouquet. wines starting to show the Spinyback Nelson The top wines were notablyStrong, fresh melon/lime benefits of bottle age. Riesling 2009 HHHH concentrated and complex, butflavours, green and nettley, Great buy from Waimea the panel also found some goodwith good impact. $19 Te Kairanga Estates. Slightly toasty value, fruit-driven styles.Spinyback Nelson Martinborough Estate bouquet, leading into aSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Riesling 2009 HHHHH medium-dry palate with strong, Kina Beach Reserve NelsonNettley style, with fresh, crisp, Lemon-scented, with rich, citrusy, slightly spicy, lingering Chardonnay 2008 HHHHHclearly herbaceous flavours, ripe, citrusy, faintly honeyed flavours. Lots of personality. Stylish wine from a coastal site,lively and punchy (from Waimea flavours in a medium-dry style Enjoyed by all judges. $14 still fresh and developing realEstate). $15.50 (A, UK, US) with lively acidity, a touch Martinborough complexity. Vibrant and rich, with of botrytis and excellent Vineyard Manu Riesling citrusy fruit characters woven concentration. $21 (A, US) 2010 HHH1/2 with lively acidity and finely Waimea Classic Nelson Generous, ripe style with slightly integrated oak. Elegant wine, Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2 sweet lemon, lime and spice maturing very gracefully. $30 Rich and vibrant, with slightly flavours, woven with fresh toasty, bottle-aged notes acidity. Already enjoyable, with Martinborough Vineyard emerging, appetising acidity good balance and length. $27 (A) Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 and generous lemon/lime Powerful, fragrant wine, mealy, flavours, dryish and long. $19 nutty and slightly creamy. Weighty, with excellent concentration and complexity and a lasting finish. Well worth cellaring. $43 (A, UK, US) Renato Nelson Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Up-front style with generous, peachy, toasty oak flavours, showing good ripeness and concentration. Shows a strong oak influence, but also good richness of fruit. $24 JUDGESMichael Cooper Simon Nunns Corey HallWinestate’s New Zealand editor Chief winemaker at Co-owner of theis the author of the internationally Coopers Creek, Simon Gem and Harwoodacclaimed Wine Atlas of New is a senior judge at Hall brands, CoreyZealand and the annual Michael New Zealand national was previouslyCooper’s Buyer’s Guide to New wine competitions. senior winemakerZealand Wines. In the 2004 for Matua Valley.New Year Honours, Michaelwas appointed an Officer of theNew Zealand Order of Merit forservices to wine writing. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 149

NELSON & WAIRARAPAPalliser Estate Old Coach Road Nelson Seifried Nelson Wurzer Kina Beach Merlot RoséMartinborough Chardonnay 2009 HHH 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHChardonnay 2008 HHHH Citrusy and slightly minerally, Rich, distinctly spicy Pale pink blend of merlot (85%)Rich and harmonious, with a in a fruit-driven style with a wine (wurzer is a cross of and cabernet franc (15%), freshcomplex bouquet and strong, touch of oak and lees-aging gewurztraminer and muller- and lively, with gentle plum andgrapefruit-like flavours, complexity. $17 (UK) thurgau) with a floral, perfumed spice flavours. $20gently seasoned with oak. bouquet. Finely balanced, off-dry Te Mania Nelson PinotMouthfilling and slightly Old Coach Road style with concentrated, ripe, Noir Rosé 2010 HHHcreamy, with excellent balance Unoaked Nelson apricot and spice flavours. $20 Full-bodied style with goodand length. $29 Chardonnay 2010 HHH Waimea Edel 2009 HHH1/2 depth of strawberry and spiceSeifried Nelson Bottled by July, Seifried’s Floral, distinctly spicy blend of flavours, fresh and lingering.Chardonnay 2009 HHHH wine has strong, crisp, citrusy riesling (47%), pinot gris (41%) $19 (A, UK, US)Generous, peachy, creamy flavours, showing good and gewurztraminer (12%),wine with ripe-fruit flavours vigour and freshness. “Good grown in Nelson. Crisp, citrusy OTHER REDSand complexity from barrel consumer appeal,” noted one and slightly gingery, in a medium-fermentation in French - mostly judge. $17 (UK, US) dry style with a slightly oily 7 TASTED- and American oak. Has a texture and loads of flavour. $22 2 AWARDEDstrong, toasty oak influence, Pencarrow Martinborough Richmond Plains Blanc debut is also weighty and rich. Chardonnay 2010 HHH Noir 2010 HHH Waimea Trev’sFine value. $20 (UK) Attractively scented, fruit-driven ‘White’ (in reality pale pink) Red 2010 HHH1/2Te Kairanga Casarina style, citrusy and smooth. Nelson wine made from Deeply coloured Nelson blend ofReserve Martinborough Fresh, youthful middleweight, pinot noir. Full-bodied, with cabernet franc (63%) and syrahChardonnay 2008 HHHH showing some leesy complexity strawberryish, slightly peachy (32%), with a splash of malbec,Fragrant bouquet, with a strong and decent depth. $16 and spicy flavours, slightly sweet, American oak-aged. Fresh,French oak influence (50% fresh and smooth. $20 (A, UK ) berryish aromas lead into a full-new). Fleshy and rich, with Rimu Grove Nelson Rimu Grove flavoured, youthful wine, vibrantlygrapefruit-like flavours, plenty Chardonnay 2009 HHH Nelson Gewurztraminer fruity, spicy and slightly savoury,of nutty oak, lively acidity, and Full-bodied style with very 2010 HHH with some complexity. $24good drive and length. Drinking satisfying depth of citrus Weighty style, praised by one Waimea Nelsonwell now. $34 (A, US) and stone-fruit flavours. judge as rich and oily, with an Syrah 2008 HHHTe Mania Reserve Nelson One judge found it “oak- exotic perfume, but the others Savoury, slightly nutty andChardonnay 2009 HHHH dominated”, but another found found it a bit too “hot” and herbal, with some pepperyElegant, finely balanced wine “reasonable balance and “unbalanced”. $29 notes and good balance andwith a fragrant, biscuity bouquet. concentration”. $30 (A) Waimea Nelson Viognier depth. $24Vibrant, peachy fruit characters, 2009 HHHgently seasoned with nutty Te Kairanga Weighty, with peachy, spicy, PINOT NOIRoak, fresh acidity and a slightly Martinborough Estate slightly buttery and creamycreamy finish. $28 (A, US) Chardonnay 2009 HHH flavours, showing some barrel 22 TASTEDWaimea Nelson Tight, citrusy, limey and ferment complexity, and an off- 15 AWARDEDChardonnay 2009 HHHH peachy, with a crisp, minerally dry, rounded finish. Ready. $22 Strong class, dominated byFinely balanced, with streak. Slightly lean, but with Wairarapa reds from all of themouthfilling body, fresh, some nutty complexity. $21 ROSÉ sub-regions - Martinborough,strong, grapefruit-like flavours Gladstone and Masterton.seasoned with toasty French OTHER WHITES 4 TASTED Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2009,oak, and good nutty, leesy 3 AWARDED from Palliser Estate, stood outcomplexity. Fully barrel- 6 TASTED as the irresistible budget buy.fermented. $22 (A, US) 6 AWARDED Richmond PlainsBrightwater Nelson Pinot Noir Rosé Urlar Gladstone PinotVineyards Nelson Strong class of Nelson wines in 2010 HHHH Noir 2009 HHHHHChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 which gewurztraminer made its Pale salmon pink, with Rich, instantly appealing wineFruit-driven style with lively, presence well felt - as a ‘straight’ attractive, strawberry and dried from the northern Wairarapa,citrusy flavours and a gentle varietal wine, in a blend with herb aromas. Slightly sweet full-coloured and generous,seasoning of oak (one-third barrel- other aromatic varieties, and in a and vibrantly fruity, with very deep and finely textured. Veryfermented) adding a touch of crossing with muller-thurgau. good weight, concentration ripe and savoury, with dense,complexity. Fresh and focused, and balance, a hint of oranges sweet fruit and lovely weight,with excellent balance. $22 Waimea Nelson and a seductively smooth balance and length. $37Te Mania Nelson Gewurztraminer finish. $20 (A, UK, US)Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHEasy-drinking style with strong, Full-bodied, off-dry style with anripe, peachy flavours, a gentle inviting, floral bouquet, gentleoak influence and a well- acidity and fresh, well-ripened,rounded finish. $20 (A, UK, US) concentrated stone-fruit and spice flavours. $22 (UK, US)150 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011