Winestate Magazine May June 2011

Inevitably, given Kate’s training in It’s a lot of fun but also a big challenge, continued the business and became the firstChampagne, producing a sparkling wine which can be quite stressful.” registered female vigneron and winemakerwas high on the list of priorities. Ironically, in South Australia. She continued in thatthe Deviation Road vineyard originally As her reserve stocks grow she plans to role until 1892, when she suffered a stroke.had been planted with chardonnay and increase the time on lees from around 12 Her memory was encapsulated in a well-pinot noir with the intention of making a months to two years, bringing in tertiary known Hillstowe wine, Mary’s Hundred,sparkling wine, but that never happened. characters with yeast autolysis. made from McLaren Vale shiraz.Now those grapes have found their rightfulplace in Kate’s Deviation Road Sparkling, There’s another element in Deviation If they say winemaking is in your blood,first released in 2009. Road’s success, and it stems back nearly it probably helps if it’s also in your genes. 160 years. Hamish is descended from Kate enjoys having control of the whole Buxton Forbes Laurie, who migrated from *The Deviation Road cellar door, at 214process from overseeing the grapegrowing Scotland and became one of the earliest Scott Creek Rd, Longwood, is open sevento managing her own riddling and vignerons south of Adelaide. He planted days a week for tastings and sales fromdisgorging operation: “It’s been a very his first vines in 1853 on the Fleurieu 10am to 5pm. Phone (08) 8339 2633 fordeliberate decision,” she says. “Not many Peninsula, near Middleton, and much of details or visit www.deviationroad.com.people do the whole process themselves. his wine was bottled and sent to England. ADELAIDE HILLS TASTING STARTS PAGE 134. Buxton died in 1876 but his wife, Mary, May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 51



Fashion in aGlass THE WINE MARKETING CHALLENGE OF IDENTIFYING SHIFTING TRENDS DAVID STEVENS-CASTROI T M I G H T N OT B E immediately Jack: Man! That’s tasty! grigio/gris/blanc, certainly adding a lot more Miles: That’s 100 per cent pinot noir. Single- versatility to the available wine styles of theapparent, but ‘fashion’ has almost as vineyard. They don’t even make it any more. white varieties in the general marketplace.strong an impact on the wine industry as Jack: Pinot noir?the clothing industry. The wine world has Miles: Hmm-hmm. One of the potential impacts of these shifts islived and will continue to live on trends Jack: Then how come it’s white? economic. For example, typically, producing afor the foreseeable future. We can call it Miles [laughs]: Oh, Jesus. Don’t ask red wine is costly because it is necessary for‘fashion’ if you prefer, but whether trend or questions like that up in wine country. They’ll the vines to be ‘stressed’ enough to create lowfashion it certainly adds a bit of colour and think you’re some kind of dumbshit, OK? yields. This means the resulting fruit receivesexcitement to the wine scene. the maximum potential nutrients since it isn’t This wave of interest went on to shape competing with too much fruit on the vine, So I’ve decided to take a look at a chain reaction in all the New World which ultimately creates a better concentrationthe trends of the past 12 months and wine producing countries, Australia, New of flavour in the pulp. Sauvignon blanc, onspeculate on what lies ahead. Just like Zealand, South Africa, Chile and Argentina. the other hand, can produce a reasonableclothing designers such as Versace, wine with high-yield vines, making it muchArmani and Valentino, who create trends This is, of course, all determined by the more attractive as a potentially profitablethat impact continuously around the natural human disposition - wine lovers are crop. However, if the demand for this varietyglobe, the wine world has equally fickle people and, by nature, people mimic other continues to wane there is potential forfashions, also influenced from both inside people, therefore wine lovers follow other overproduction and therefore a significantand outside the industry. wine lovers, and before you know it you’ve drop in price. This means that, for growers, got a trend! being aware of trends and their potential It’s been impressive to see how movies consequences is extremely important.and documentaries such as Mondovino, Last year, for example, consumersSideways and Bottle Shock have been suddenly began to seek alternatives Sometimes I get to the stage where I’vepowerful enough to instantly affect general to the ‘globetrotter variety’, sauvignon talked about wine so much it seems thatmass wine consumption. For example, the blanc – so called because it is grown I’m only left with myself to discuss it with,significant rise in the consumption of pinot and consumed globally and has been which is why I really enjoy discoveringnoir in the United States can be directly one of the strongest recent trends. and sharing stories with people whoattributed to the 2004 movie Sideways with As a result there was a noticeable increase are as passionate about wine as I am.this simple dialogue: in the consumption of the pinot family: May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 53

So I often find myself swirling a glass in St this summer instead of the previously more marketing - who knows what other ingeniousElmo, Byron Bay, with sommelier Marcus expected and generally less attractive concepts will be targeting women in theCorcoran. We discuss what we perceive to sweet style of this fresh, summery drink. next few years? But the fact remains that,be the trends at the moment and we agree Pretty impressive stuff. for now, the sauvignon blanc from Newthat there has been a noticeable boom Zealand and the semillon-sauvignon fromin Italian and Spanish wines - which can There is also the well-established and Australia will continue to dominate for a nightmost likely be attributed to a resurgence in seemingly unrelenting trend aimed at out with the girls.interest in foods from these regions, as well seducing the female market, which is rapidlyas the ongoing steady growth in interest in becoming the leading force globally as wine I should also mention the ongoing creativitythe ‘great value for money’ South American purchasers and consumers. What with wine from Australian wineries and particularlywines. Marcus considers that consumers label creation by artists or designers, wines the so-called ‘flying winemakers’ - thehave been changing their vision about with low calorie content, sparkling wines professionals within the industry who workthese wines radically and he really enjoys complete with strawberry pulp, low-alcohol overseas regularly, and then bring backintroducing his customers to them. sparkling moscato - all combined with clever their new-found knowledge and expertise He also noted the continuing rise indemand for organic and biodynamic wines.I have noticed that many restaurants areputting more effort into defining the origins ofthe wines they have on offer, which is reallyhelping to educate the average consumer.This in turn is pushing the wineries intointroducing more ‘green/eco’ wines into theirportfolios. There is definitely a market outthere and it will continue to rise. Then, of course, there is the internetand social media - forceful global trendsin themselves. Communication networkssuch as FaceBook, Twitter and YouTubehave undoubtedly affected the wine world.They have contributed to speeding upthe market dramatically, empoweringcustomers to express their preferencesfreely and allowing producers to responddirectly and instantly. It is also breakingdown borders and allowing discussionto occur 24/7 around the globe. Sales ofwine online are also an enormous growtharea, and this is pushing producers andretailers alike into seriously rethinking theirmarketing on an ongoing basis. Some trends are created strategically,as opposed to emerging organically. Onesuch example within Australia is the veryeffective campaign spearheaded by DeBortoli wines, ‘The Rosé Revolution’. Theysuccessfully set out to convince us and theretailers to embrace the dry style of rosé54 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

There is also the well-established and seemingly unrelenting trend aimed at seducing the female market, which is rapidly becoming the leading force globally.and combine it with the great material they ABOUT THE AUTHOR Chile, including one at the prestigioushave to work with here. Thanks to them De Martino Vineyards in the Maipo Valley.there is always something new and exciting David Stevens-Castro is a sommelier, wineto try in the Australian marketplace. expert and agricultural scientist from Chile. In Australia he is an independent wine Born into a family deeply involved with expert who regularly writes, presents and So, to Australians who currently drink only wine, he inherited an incredible passion interacts with the wine world and throughshiraz, or have equally safe and uninspiring for wine from a young age. He completed his website www.latinocellar.com. Hehabits, I invite you to join the fashionable an honours degree in agricultural science, has lived and worked in Byron Bay forworld of wine. I challenge you try on a majoring in oenology and fruticulture at four years and currently represents the‘new suit’ and allow yourself to go with the the internationally renowned Pontifical wholesale portfolios of Wines of Chile andflow, to discover new pleasures, and allow Catholic University, Santiago, Chile. He Argentina and Douglas Lamb Wines inyourself to be surprised. Because at the has participated in several vintages in Queensland and Northern NSW.end of the day there’s a lot to be said forfashionable inspiration. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 55

JEinWtheEhiLlls MILLBROOK REVELS IN ITS IDYLLIC LOCATION AND GROWING REPUTATION MIKE ZEKULICH

DRIVING SOUTH from Perth’s CBD, catchment runway. As well as being Folly in the Hunter Valley. As well, it owns such an attractive feature, it provides for the 10,000-case Barking Owl label.most wine lovers head for Margaret River Millbrook’s water needs.or perhaps the Great Southern region - Millbrook has been established on abypassing an industry jewel, Millbrook in Perth businessman Peter Fogarty former orchard, said to be the first inJarrahdale, part of the Perth Hills and just purchased the 120-hectare property in WA to have exported stone-fruit. But45km down the road. Old Chestnut Rd in 1988 and, with wife Peter Fogarty’s interests were not in Lee and children John, Mark and Anna, peaches or plums. He wanted to have And it is a jewel even for those who set about getting their hands dirty. John his own wine, the result of a passion –don’t care much about wine. Millbrook is now the vineyard manager and Anna is sparked, curiously, through yachting.is one of WA’s most attractive picture brand manager. On trips towing their boat across thepostcard sites, its winery, restaurant and Nullarbor to national championships,cellar door set amid virgin jarrah forests The expanding Fogarty group now owns Peter would take every opportunity toand a series of man-made connected Margaret River’s Deep Woods Estate, taste wines on the way there and back.mini lakes established in a natural Smithbrook at Pemberton and Lake’s May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 57

It provided an alternative to people wantingto make a winery visit but with limited time.Once, in 1977, it involved a 6am visit restaurant was under way. Enhanced would have approved. In 1870, he plantedto Henschke in the Barossa hills where by several hundred thousand dollars vines and made wine, but landed himself inthey parked, waiting for the cellar door to worth of landscaping featuring marron- trouble with the law because he did not haveopen. Fortunately, Stephen Henschke was stocked lakes, it provided an alternative a liquor licence. The first Millbrook vintage ofup early and, though surprised, happily to people wanting to make a winery visit three tonnes of chardonnay and six tonnesshowed them around. For the journey but with limited time. of shiraz was harvested in 1999.home, the yacht was laden with five casesof wine, the start of an extensive collection. Indeed, it was for this very reason that Today, its wine range includes the most Peter did not seek a development in expensive $45 limited-release wines from Planting of Millbrook’s terraced Margaret River where, at the time, he the best parcels of fruit it can source.vineyard which has an elevation of considered the price of land still reasonable Included are a viognier from Chittering at220m above sea level, similar to France’s compared to world values, despite the the northern end of the Perth Hills and aRhone Valley, began in 1995. Initially rapid increases in the 1990s. chardonnay from Geographe. The Estateit was intended as a hobby, to be a range from the property includes thefew vines. By 2000, it had extended to His busy corporate life involving regular flagships viognier and shiraz viognier.eight hectares, while a 500-tonne, $3 travel limited his spare time but a 45-minutemillion winery, cellar door facility and trip to Jarrahdale was manageable. Certainly Millbrook is an early Australian user of the original property owner, Joseph Batt, viognier with shiraz. The grapes of the two58 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

varieties are picked at the same time and The wine is released after 18-21 months sauvignon and malbec from Margaretco-fermented after the layering of the fruit, in new and used French oak and a year River, pinot noir from Mt Barker, rieslingwith the viognier at the bottom of the tank. in bottle. from the Great Southern and viognier from Geographe. The Barking Owl range of Adelaide University trained winemaker In blind tastings, it has proved a six wines is the volume $16-17 wine, soft,Damian Hutton says trials have shown David against the Goliaths. At $35 a easy-drinking styles with fruit sourced fromthat six to seven per cent of viognier, bottle, it has won many accolades when around the state.which thrives in the hills in the hot compared to more expensive greatdays and cool nights, developing its wines from France’s Cote Rotie such as Despite the global financial crisis and theflavour profile, hits the “sweet spot”. Georges Vernay la Blonde de Seigeur high Australian dollar, Millbrook’s exportPreviously, it had been four to five per at $150, Maison Ruge at $120, Michel sales include Germany (with Barking Owl),cent. Damian, who has had working Chapoutier les Becasser at $85 and New Japan, China, Malaysia and Hong Kong.stints at Houghton, Tintara (McLaren Zealand’s Bilancia Syrah. And the 2011 vintage? ‘It looks really good,Vale) and Alkoomi before taking over a lot like the 2007,” Damian Hutton says. “It’sat Millbrook in January 2007, says the Millbrook’s 300-tonne production also really early, really fast and good quality.”extra viognier increases the wine’s floral includes a regional range made up ofaromatics and juicy texture. specific varieties from the “right regions”, BEST OF THE WEST TASTING STARTS PAGE 108. such as sauvignon blanc, cabernet May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 59

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide Hills Painttkitwuditeh Our Rosé has always been deliciously exotic. Uniquely created from Blaufränkisch and Trollinger grapes, it is appetisingly fresh, dry and textural. The perfect food lover’s wine! Trade enquiries NSW, QLD & VIC: Zenith Wine Agencies: 1300 883 056 SA: Melissa Stephenson 0408 896 139 www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

adelaidegrapevine GRAEME ANDREWSI was sipping an enormous flat white Wines tend to follow a similar pathway with as braised rabbit pie with caper raisin saucewhile chatting to Sophia Zervas, owner of lots of local boutique and micro producers. and wilted spinach, or tea-smoked duckHahndorf’s latest eatery, The White House, Service is far from formal, but decidedly cold rolls with Asian slaw and chilli dippingwhen the penny suddenly dropped. This multi- friendly and informative. A fresh and vibrant sauce. Desserts dance around selectionstalented young lady viewed her establishment new kid on the block, well worth a detour. 90 including pineapple tart tatin with lychee,as a ‘project under construction’, despite Main St, Hahndorf; phone (08) 8388 7669; mango and coconut lime sorbet, or poachedbeing already chock-a-block with visual and www.thewhitehouseadelaidehills.com.au. rhubarb with Italian meringue cream chantilly.edible appeal, I mused silently. One of few Food allergies can be addressed withouttimes the old cliche, ‘watch this space’, seems Adelaide’s not top-heavy with international fuss, if advised when booking. Importantly,genuinely appropriate. hotels so a new contender’s arrival minus bargain dining at Redsalt does not come the usual cymbal-crashing fanfare is a with indifferent service. Probably Adelaide’s The White House is a tiny, authentic 1858 little surprising. I think ‘soft opening,’ is the top-value eating out deal. 16 Hindmarshstone cottage, facing the main road, which industry jargon. A spanking new 308-room, Square, Adelaide; phone (08) 8206 8888;has fortuitously escaped trendy makeovers 15-floor Crowne Plaza has quietly backed www.crowneplazaadelaide.com.au.and tasteless renovations. The decor is an into the north-eastern corner of Hindmarsheclectic mix of casual contemporary and Square - sleek, modern and well-groomed The Wine Underground has an interestingfarmhouse rustic. A continuous, curved, and self-rated at five stars. I’m sure history. A few years ago it rose phoenix-covered verandah completes this visual accommodation lives up to the promise. like from a fire gutted building to target theappeal. Despite size restraints, unexpected However, the downside of such a low-key corporate market. There’s a menage ofnooks induce a sense of intimacy and launch has been that Redsalt, a vast linear subterranean function rooms complete withcomfort. There are lots of feel-good factors space, cleverly partitioned to function as after-five wine bar, plus an elegant, unclutteredin this highly personalised environment.This the establishment’s sole restaurant, bar and dining room at street level. Head chef Morcorestaurant is a breakfast-to-dinner affair, with public lounge, has remained (house guests Ruthoff steers food in an unconventionalsnacks, dessert and coffee on offer between excepted), largely undiscovered by locals. direction. His starting points are flavours andprimary sessions - but more on that later. nuances from the approximately 500-strongSophia has grafted onto The White House Well, the secret’s now out. Redsalt’s collection of wines, primarily from boutiquesome decidedly lateral additions, live acoustic direction is under executive chef Brad and micro producers, a serious nod of Johns’s hands-on leadership. This Adelaide seasonality added and finally, all aspectsSaturday night music and a Secret Garden lad has spent 18 years overseas fine-tuning combined with classic European and ModernCinema. There’s even the ‘Old Shed’ bar out his craft. Positions have been many and Australian cooking. The menu is brief andthe back. Quirky, different and great fun. diverse - some high-profile, including sous at always varied, reflecting the constant demand Michelin-starred Charlotte Street Hotel and driven by function requirements. While menus Head chef Amanda Daniel doubles as a ‘pressure test’ hurdle for the UK version vary, cooking is consistently professional.consultant, instilling cuisine with a delicious of MasterChef. Passionate and highlybias towards Provencal dishes, contained motivated, he believes that what comes Champagne tasting lunches for the girlswithin a tight, Adelaide Hills provenance. from the kitchen must be free of theatrical dilutes any ‘blokey’ feel and the option ofHer vast experience with ethical produce, whimsy and tastebud gob-smacking. Since evening five-course degustations providesreal food, minus chemicals and additives, taking the Crowne position he’s quickly an excuse to explore wine treasures.coupled with her excellent cooking skills, developed firm, ongoing relationships with 121 Pirie St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8232 1222;make dishes sing with flavour. Look for the this state’s best (and most reliable) growers www.wineunderground.com.au.vegetarian daily special, guaranteed to and producers. Personal communicationhook more than a few carnivores. skills soar above average industry norms Left: The White House, owner Sophia Zervas. and he believes active mentoring of staff is Right: The Crowne Plaza, Redsalt restaurant. essential. His style is no-fuss execution of dishes involving quality ingredients, classic techniques and exacting flavours expected from authentic global cuisines. Everything is house-made within the restaurant’s open kitchen, including all patisserie and sauces. Sounds fantastic, but probably painfully expensive. Well, along with an a la carte menu, a special two- or three-course luncheon is available Monday to Friday. Two courses for $25 and three for $30. No mistake, this is a deal made in gastronomic heaven. Expect savoury temptations such May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 61

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINRosa Mitchell, who made a name for Salvatore opened MoPho Noodle Bar in area, is now a mix of clever design (byherself cooking good, hearty, Italian food South Yarra in February to give that area architectural firm 6 Degrees) wherein the Melbourne CBD above Journal of the city, a mix of office and residential a retro feel of oversized chairs andCanteen on Flinders Lane, has moved spaces, a smart, fast alternative to other concrete archways balances the outsidepremises. In what quickly became takeaway and eat-in options. In a small area of lush greenery and simpledubbed ‘Rosa’s Kitchen’ (complete with room of only about 30 seats, the sharp wooden furniture. A menu of mostlyneon sign), Rosa has now moved out to design is clever in that what appears to South American flavours is pulling inMelbourne’s west in Williamstown and it’s be lattice work on the walls is actually the crowds. Think peppers, chillis,a move that has proved a homecoming the front of cupboards that serve as cured hams and rare-breed roasts fromof sorts - she worked as a hairdresser storage space, and the kitchen is open the wood-fired oven, with a few quirkyin the suburb for 16 years before she to allow the clang of woks and heady Wilson stamps - the bug taco is alreadymoved to cooking. The opportunity to scents of fish sauce, chilli and garlic to gaining signature status. With no winetake on the restaurant of Hobson’s Bay fill the room. Ben Cooper has worked inHotel proved too good a chance to get some wonderful restaurants that clearly or beer served in bottles, they haveback to her roots and provide the area explain why he’s creating the food he is. four reds, four whites, a sparkling and awith some much-needed, good, well- With long stints in London’s Nobu, Ezard rose all available by the carafe, as wellpriced food. When Rosa was in the city and Longrain, he has a solid foundation as 17 interesting beers on tap, this is ashe opened for lunch only and offered to his cooking and will unashamedly very urban, very smart operation thata set menu – simple. Now she has an a adapt it to a Western palate, creating challenges the palate and broadensla carte menu and a larger dining room a canvas where authentic ingredients the idea of what a gastropub is. This isand is open for lunch and dinner. While are key but the combinations of those a good local but is becoming so popularservice needs some work (at the time ingredients may not be traditional. His that it’s not one that just the locals areof writing they were still looking for a take on dishes may include a feisty frequenting. 34 Inkerman St, St Kilda;restaurant manager) and the room lacks soup noodles with pork wonton and phone (03) 9537 1777.much in the way of design or decor, cabbage or a wok noodle dish ofRosa’s no-nonsense Italian food hits scallops and crispy bacon, sambal Above: The Newmarket Hotel’s retro feel dining.the mark most of the time. The antipasti Below: Outdoor area at The Newmarket Hotel.varies weekly and is seasonally driven; olek and Shanghai noodles. All thesethere may be strips of zucchini lightly exemplify Ben’s interpretation of Asiandressed, panzanella (bread and tomato), food and they are working well, creatingbeetroot from Rosa’s garden or roasted a new buzz in South Yarra. 7 Yarra St,peppers. Mains are robust in flavour, South Yarra; phone (03) 9827 0699.perhaps a penne pasta with a three-meatragu (pork hock, lamb shank and osso We’ve talked about Paul Wilson’sbucco), or Sicilian chicken, a maryland collaboration with Julian Gerner at thecut, slow-cooked in a chicken stock Albert Park Hotel and The Middle Parkserved with capers, green olives and Hotel in Grapevine previously, and thepotatoes. Eggplant parmigiana, a recipe story continues with the opening offrom Rosa’s mother, is a star dish, served St Kilda’s Newmarket Hotel in earlyin a large terracotta plate filled with thinly 2011. The Newmarket, once known assliced eggplant, layered with parmesan, being one of the seedier pubs in thenapoli sauce and basil. The new Rosa’sKitchen’s is proving a welcome additionto Melbourne’s west. 28 Ferguson Street,Williamstown; phone (03) 9397 5159. Entrepreneur and restaurateurSalvatore Malatesta continues togrow his St Ali cafe and restaurantempire in Melbourne, even thoughrecent announcements were madeearly in 2011 that outposts are openingimminently in London and eventuallyNew York. Going into partnership withSt Ali executive chef Ben Cooper,62 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELQueenslanders spent the first few months starting to flourish. Sake, opened originally octopus and slow-cooked wagyu tongueof 2011 covered in mud and in a profound in Sydney with chef Shaun Presland, is with mustard fruit vinaigrette. Cha’s Benstate of shock. Cyclones, floods and the glamorous new Japanese on level Williamson is now a big fan of sustainablegenerally very crappy weather patterns one of the Pier. seafood and will be looking at thosehave taken their toll on many industries, and options when the restaurant reopens afterthe restaurant business is no exception. The decor shimmers with golden renovation and with the addition of an wallpaper, lots of wood and a wall of exciting new space that will seat 50. More In Brisbane, riverfront dining has a colourful sake containers, floor to ceiling. on that next issue.whole new meaning. Drift, the pontoon There’s a balcony Bar, several beautifulrestaurant which sat literally over the private dining rooms and a big, open As Jellyfish was only two years old whenriver at Toowong and had been newly kitchen that you can sit around, sushi bar- it flooded, the redo is much as it wasrenovated by restaurateur David Moore, style, and watch ex-Wasabi chef Shinichi before. The bar has been altered slightlywas carried in part down the river, while Maeda works his particular type of magic. and now boasts a larger space and aanother section of it sank. Whole precincts Menus sit in a serving dish alongside your great new menu of bar snacks that will include dishes devised while Ben was at Cha Cha Char. The same unparalleled river views and sharp, black-on-white decor - think shiny black marble, black and white striped chairs and long, comfy banquettes - is sparkling and new again, pleasing its loyal diners with favourites such as whole baby barramundi from Trinity Bay, crispy fried with Japanese soy and spring onion. Popular fine diners Urbane, phone (07) 3229 2271 and The Euro, phone (07) 3229 3686, at 181 Mary St, Brisbane,such as West End and Rosalie were chopsticks and paper napkin. Glasses of closed during the floods but have reopenedengulfed by water taking our favourite water come promptly, as does wine and a with some great lunchtime specials - $18cafes, delis and eateries with them. Salt, vast range of sake, which is explained to will buy you a quarter organic roastedFlute, the Rosalie Gourmet Deli and the you by sake and shoshu sommelier Miriam chicken and a Tuscan bread salad, a steakfabulous Village Meats all went under McLaughlin in whatever detail you require. sandwich with shoestring fries or a plate ofcompletely, as did Freestyle Tout and gran reserve jamon Serrano with a peach,the famous Gunshop Cafe. But it was This year will also see the opening of apple and watercress salad. Upstairs inthose places along the banks of the river the Sake Academy, which Miriam will The Laneway Bar you can have a wagyuthat really felt the full impact of a powerful run, which will educate diners about this burger for just $12. Urbane is now onlysnake of water, wielding unbelievable special drink. open on Friday for lunch but offers bookingsforce and swallowing anything and for functions any day of the week.everything in its path. Jellyfish, phone (07) 3220 2022, took a couple of months to reopen and, while Left: Sake’s private dining room. At the Eagle Street Pier, the renovation and the builders rebuilt, the team joined Right: Sake tartare trio.expansion ground to a halt as basements forces with sister restaurant Cha Chafilled and utilities malfunctioned. Newcomer, Char, offering what’s said to be the bestSydney restaurant Sake, phone (07) 3339 of menus from both restaurants. “Working0999, remained high and dry but unable together has been a great experience,”to trade as the water lapped at the glass said chef Rhett Willis, who took hiswalls of Aria, Cha Cha Char and Il Centro. fish specialty team to Cha to Brisbane’sFifty metres down the river, the Broadwalk favourite steak restaurant.Cafe, Groove Train and Jellyfish werewiped out in a matter of hours. He particularly enjoyed working with the wood-fired oven, roasting and baking fish The good news is that all the suburban and creating great new smoky flavours.precincts are now back up and running Using offal and secondary cuts like brisketand we can again dine at Eagle Street, and tongue was also an invigoratingwhere several new eateries are finally experience. One new dish that came out of his time there is carpaccio of Fremantle May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 63

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGA little bit New York, a little bit Paris and Thursday. A crisply edited menu makes salmon cooked en papillote with prawns,a lot Sydney is the recipe for Felix Bistro it easy to choose as you fancy nearly potatoes, tomatoes and spinach. Theand Bar, the latest member of the Merivale everything from the sauteed chilli squid authentic Tokyo atmosphere is a real bonus.restaurant empire, located in Ash Lane, on brioche with lime aioli to roasted Level 4, Overseas Passenger Terminal,just behind The Ivy complex in the CBD, spatchcock with Israeli couscous, hummus Circular Quay; phone (02) 9252 8600.Chef Lauren Murdoch (formerly of Ash and Moroccan eggplant. If you have aStreet cellar and Lotus and mentored by smidgen of stomach space left, the soft When you’re a fifth-generation restaurateurthe legendary Janni Kyritsis) is pulling centred chocolate fondant with Meander like Mario Percuoco (yes, he’s the son ofin the crowds again with her French Valley clotted cream is well worth the the fabled Armando of Buon Ricordo), yourcontemporary menu. Many of the waiters 15-minute wait. A great addition to Inner choice of career must seem predestined.are French, which adds an authentic air West dining. Phone (02) 9660 6652. And that’s a good thing for lovers of classicto the transplanted brasserie atmosphere. Italian food in this case. Most recently Anyone who doesn’t know the difference directing the kitchen at Intermezzo, Mario The decor is 100 per cent Australian, between supermarket sushi and the finest has moved a few blocks up to Bent Streetthough, and is the work of Michael McCann for his latest venture, Acqua Pazza. Locatedof Dreamtime Australia. There’s a shellfish Japanese cuisine shouldn’t make a booking behind an historic sandstone facade,bar, walls of wine and Tiffany lamps to add a at Yuki’s at the Quay. The lavish decor, to- a clubby atmosphere of chandeliers,movie set touch. Yet the food is surprisingly the-horizon water views and faultless service downlights and high ceiling pulls in a steadystraightforward, from the chicken liver semaphore destination restaurant from the crowd of city suits and a smattering of ladiespate with currant relish through the duck minute you walk in the door. There are set of lunch on a daily basis. As a former habitueleg confit and fruits de mer, a large platter menus for those watching their dollars, from of Intermezzo, I recognised many familiarof the freshest shellfish from the eastern the $33 lunchtime special to the Chef’s faces who have also shifted their loyalties.seaboard. I spotted a local billionaire on the Special Course line-up for $120, but a lanext table so the French-leaning wine list carte is the way to go if you want to truly The antipasti table is as fine as any youstudded with Romanee-Contis and Latours appreciate the skill of the chefs. Particular will find in Italy, but “feed the man meat” isisn’t just for show - although the plutocrat favourites of mine include the seared salmon the main thread in the mains, from bisteccahad chosen an Australian bottling to wash belly and Paper Bag Seafood - Tasmanian alla fiorentina (a tender T-bone cooked overdown his meal choice - the restaurant’s charcoal) to braciolette napoletana (rolledtrademark Reuben sandwich. veal stuffed with pine nuts and raisins). Pasta was always a major event at Intermezzo and There’s a packed house every lunchtime so the tradition continues at Acqua Pazza. Bethe noise level is high. It’s worth the assault sure to order the tagliatelle all’amalfitana -on your ears, though, to sink your teeth into tagliatelle with prawns, zucchini flowers andthe creamiest of crumbed lamb’s brains with parmesan - if it’s on. I usually bypass dessertssauce ravigote and the steak tartare with at dinner but make an exception even at lunchhand-cut beef. Very much a seen-and-be- here, ever since I gave in to the sfogliattellaseen vibe for those who love buzz, a great riccia napoletana - a luscious pastry filled withwine list and relaxed yet expertly cooked food. ricotta, semolina and candied fruit. 1 Bent St,2 Ash Street, Sydney; phone (02) 9240 3000. Sydney; phone (02) 9247 0851. It could be third time lucky for 127 Booth Above: Felix bistro dining and bar.St in Annandale, formerly a 19th centurychemist’s premises and once the home of‘pull’ restaurants such as Three Clicks Westand Da Gianni. The latest inhabitant is BoothStreet Bistro, the creation of Wayne andTeresa Borgese-Coom, whose combinedresumes include Level 41 and the BayswaterBrasserie. Modern bistro fare is the guidinghand behind the menu - the sort of dishesnow being hailed as bistronomy in France,from starters such as marinated beetrootand Jinni goat’s cheese with balsamic jellyto eight-hour braised beef cheeks in red winewith confit of baby onions. The service is friendly and efficientand you can even BYO from Tuesday to64 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNDiners delight at the cuts of beef, the are meltingly tender with subtle smoky dishes are substantial, we are sated andseashells and wine cellar viewed through flavours of the grill, the salad is fresh desserts will have to wait for another day.small picture windows as they wander and crunchy, but the basil-flavoureddown the candle-illuminated long corridor, pesto comes in sizeable dollops and The restaurant itself is a sophisticatedthe impressive entrance to Rockpool Bar overpowers the other ingredients. beast and there would be few who’d be& Grill. There’s never been as much hype A much lighter hand is needed here with disappointed in it. The service, however,and hoo-hah in the opening of any restaurant this strongly flavoured dressing. Some requires work but the food is generally prettyin Perth as there’s been over Neil Perry’s warm bread arrives when we are finishing good and surprisingly reasonably priced,venture which put out the welcome mat early this dish; it would have been better had apart from a few dishes which can easilythis year at the Burswood Entertainment it arrived before, when we were perusing be avoided. Wine prices breathe rarefiedComplex. Bookings have been heavy at the the menu. Although Rockpool showcases air and range from $43 for a local semillon180-seater and a Monday night at 8.30pm beef, we order a main course of partridge sauvignon blanc to $7600 for a 1990 Lais the earliest available table for two when I from the wood-fired rotisserie, served Tache. Ouch! Great Eastern Highwayring a few days in advance. with roasted peach and aged balsamic Victoria Park; phone (08) 6252 1900. vinegar ($49) and the wood-fired grilled We relax at the smart bar with a palate- Suffolk lamb loin chops and cutlets with Victoria Station at the Burswood hasawakening pilsner before being led to mint jelly ($35) and are to share a side of closed. The perennial favourite openedthe dining area. Our table for two is in oven-roasted pumpkin and sweet potato after a complete refurb in 2003 and wasthe centre of the large, imposing room with burnt butter and garlic yoghurt ($12). the Australian flagship diner in the largeand is comfortably lit, but I notice the complex and satisfied those with a loveprivate dining lounges behind screens We choose a couple of glasses of red of local crayfish, fish, steaks and greatare dim and rely on downlights to wine with these mains and again they arrive salads. Now that the Burswood boasts theilluminate the table centres. Diners here pre-poured - duh! There is a 45-minute wait new Rockpool Bar & Grill, Vic Station wasmay have problems reading the menu after the entree plate is cleared and then obviously surplus to requirements. It willand assessing the food and wine. Apart a shortage of cutlery at our table further reopen as an Italian restaurant.from the busy central open kitchen, there delays the enjoyment of these dishes, butare workstations scattered around and we can’t be happier with our selection when Small European-style bars with aplenty of staff to accommodate them. we tuck in. The partridge is pink and pink/ brasserie attached are all the go in theWe order a couple of glasses of different west and it seems the popular place towhite wine with the start of the meal, red close to the bone, which is perfect for be at the moment is right in the centralbut are disappointed when they arrive me, and the peach has both sweetnessat the table pre-poured - demerit points and tart acid and is a magic foil for the bird. CBD. The Wolkowinski family of Halofor wine service here. It’s not difficult to A finger bowl is needed here, but is not Restaurant, down on the waterfront atbring a bottle to the table, even if already offered. The lamb serving is generous with Barrack St Jetty, is applying for a licenceopened, show the label to the diner and a couple of chunky loin chops and large for a new venture of this type in the middlethen pour a glass. cutlet cooked to a crunchy exterior and of the concrete and steel commercialism pink juiciness within, and the mint jelly is a of St Georges Terrace. The environment Our first dish, a shared entree of sweet, sticky, herbal hit. The pumpkin and and views will be at odds with thosewood-fired grilled octopus with pesto, sweet potato, both with skin on, are roasted of Halo, but the professionalism of thetomato and leafy salad ($24) could have to a squishy, creamy texture and the butter ownership should engender popularitybeen great. The small pieces of occy and yoghurt adds a rich and heady lift. The and success on the Terrace. Left: Rockpool Bar & Grill dining. Below: Rockpool’s open kitchen. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 65

winewords B R U C E G R E G O R YSKYE MURTAGHHe may have learnt his craft initially in the together to pick on changes that might come about from vintage toBarossa Valley, but it’s in the Coonawarra in consumer habits and in a vintage. I’ve been a wine show judge atthat Bruce Gregory truly sharpened his decade Coonawarra will remain regional shows for a few years and theskills - developing a unique personal as one of Australia’s premium show system can influence styles andstyle and earning his stripes as one of the wine regions. trends. This can be useful to see beforeregion’s preeminent winemakers. Since the wines are available in the retail1999, Bruce has been winemaker at Majella What’s the best piece of market. I enjoy tasting different stylesWines - a family-owned winery which has advice you were ever given in of wines but I focus on reds.snagged well over 660 awards. your career? Write everything down! That Recall your first ever wine experience. Bruce cut his teeth in the industry with quote came from one of my I grew up with my parents being strongvarying posts in the Barossa at Peter mentors in the wine industry, supporters of the wine industry and I wasLehmann, Woodley and Penfolds before Jim Irvine. being offered wine at a young age. Mylanding a job as assistant winemaker at Kies first, less than pleasant, experience withEstate. He was lured to the Coonawarra in How would you describe your wine was a bottle of inexpensive sparklingthe late ’80s with an offer to take up the personal wine collection? white. I did learn to pace myself as Iwinemaker’s mantle at Brands Laira Wines, I’ve focused on collecting wine from most became interested in other types of wine.where the first Majella vintage happened wine regions of Australia. Being in theto be made in 1991. During his tenure at industry for many years has enabled me to Where’s the most unusual place you’veMajella, the winery has enjoyed outstanding travel to many of them and it’s also given consumed wine?success at wine shows nationally and me contacts to exchange, purchase or be I’m a keen motorcyclist and also enjoyinternationally, most recently picking up given wines of interest. At last count I had camping, so each year I try to combinethe Ewen Fergusson McBain Trophy (best over 100 dozen stored in a temperature- both interests. Recently I went to Capemuseum wine) for its 2001 Cabernet, controlled room. Too many to drink! I do York with my father and two brothers.at the 2010 Limestone Coast Wine Show. have a small collection of imported wine There seems nothing better than being which I try to drink with close friends so around a camp fire in one of the most Away from Majella, Bruce and his wife we can all enjoy them. One particular wine isolated parts of Australia with friends,Marcia enjoy life on the farm they own comes to mind as special. It was a 1983 discussing the day’s adventure andjust down the road from the winery. Chateau Lafite Rothschild given to me by drinking a glass of Majella cabernet.The property is home to a large stand of a close group of friends. A decade laternative bush, burgeoning blue gums and I opened it with the same group, give or Have your personal wine tastes changeda small herd of cattle. take a couple, and it was fantastic. There’s over the years? something in the saying that wine was My enjoyment for wine has changed.What do you consider the main meant to be enjoyed. I now prefer more complex, tannic reds.challenges facing the Coonawarra overthe next decade? Do you have a soft spot for anyCoonawarra faces many challenges, none particular variety?more important than regional identity. Cabernet sauvignon does it for me. ThisWith the boundary issue firmly behind variety can be made to varying styles;us, it’s time to get on with marketing our it’s grown practically everywhere in thelabel and the Coonawarra wine region. world and is always interesting to try - fromGlobally there’s been a slump in sales elegant and subtle to ripe and full-bodied.for premium wines and in a very crowdedmarket Coonawarra, the region, can be How do you continue to develop yourlost. We need to keep raising the regional own winemaking skills?profile, whether it’s by individual wineries As a winemaker there are a lot of toolsre-establishing markets lost or as a group available to assist us in improvingredefining new ones. Also, by determining our winemaking, with industry bodiesjust who our customers are and do they running regular targeted seminarslike the present Coonawarra style? In and peer discussion on any concernsmy view, winemaking for trends is notthe direction to go in. We need to work66 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

In my youth it would be floral, aromaticwhites, although I still enjoy them nowon a warm afternoon.What’s the best part of your working day?Being in the barrel shed with a glass,valenche and silence. I get to lookat all the batches of wine in wood toassess the maturation. If I can’t get tothe barrel shed, it’s a glass of wine withstaff after work.When you’re not at the winery, where areyou most likely to be spotted?I’m a hobbyist bee keeper, so in the honeyseason you’ll see me surrounded by beestending the hives in the apiary on a smallfarm my wife and I own.What keeps your passion for the wineindustry alive?We haven’t made the perfect wine yet -but every vintage I think we might be alittle closer.What’s the most useful trait fora winemaker?Attention to detail!Name the most memorable bottle of wineyou’ve ever consumed.I’ve tried some wonderful old Coonawarrareds over the years and would find it hardto choose. The 1963 Mildara PeppermintPattie Cabernet Sauvignon and the1990 Penfolds Bin 920 Cabernet Shirazblend would be up there as the mostmemorable. Both wines show just howgood old Coonawarras can be, withlower alcohols than wines made today.The Bin 920 has decades in it and ifI’m lucky enough to taste it in 20 years,it would be another highlight.What event on the world stage wouldyou like to have your wines served at?A Formula 1 GP event - I enjoy theatmosphere of this form of motorracing; with all the glamour it’s truly aninternational event. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 67

WORLD’S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIPUBLIC TASTINGCome and join us for this fabulous event. Over 800 wines available to taste. $60 per ticket SUBSCRIBERS FREE A special draw will be held to taste select icon wines.Saturday 11 June, from 2pm-5pm, at the National Wine Centre, Adelaide To book your tickets call Winestate 08 8357 9277 - Strictly limited number of tickets available

the wine & spirit insiderMay/June 2011 Issue 117 FREE COPYwIN TiHnISteISrSUEbeers, THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS Anew releases PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.AND Winestate PublishingTop 40 ABN 56 088 226 411BEST WINE BUYSUNDER $20www.glendaloughestate.com.au

WINTER BEERS53 TASTED34 AWARDEDWINTER BEERSThese are beers that will warm the cockles of your Sharp’s Brewery Special Gavroche France Biereheart! Not surprisingly, they tend to range from slightly Cornwall Ale HHH1/2 Sur Lie HHHHmore flavoursome pale ales (than summer pilsners and Bright, malty nose with Sweet malt and fruity hops liftwheat beers) up to the blockbuster heavy stouts. caramel notes. Plenty of malt off the nose and it’s rich andThese are beers for the true aficionado and drinking and hops on the palate, with malty in the mouth, with goodthem results in a lot of discussion among friends! quite a drying finish. balance of complex flavours that linger on and on!AUSTRALIAN ALES Macs Brewery Naturally Greene King Bridge Road Brewers Brewed Black Mac NZ Strong Suffolk UK Beechworth Chevalier6 TASTED Dark Beer HHHH1/2 Vintage Ale HHH1/2 Saisons HHH3 AWARDED Black beauty with dark, rich, Quite a yeasty bouquet and a Sharp acidic/citrus aromas chocolaty aromas showing a nice balance of big, fresh malt, and mouth-puckering, sourVariety of styles here, from smoky/meaty edge and a full- caramel and syrupy flavours. fruity flavours.lighter pale ales to stronger bodied palate with a powerfulCeltic and Indian ones. flavour profile, good roast Fuller’s 1845 UK PORTER & STOUT characters and a toasty aftertaste. English Ale HHH1/2 Big, rich, sweet malt nose and 8 TASTEDBridge Road Brewers Coopers Brewery a rich and “mysterious” palate 8 AWARDEDBeechworth Celtic Red Australia Dark Ale HHH exhibiting a pleasant sweet “Outstanding class,” agreedAle HHHH Rich copper colour, light malty flavour profile. the judges. “These are bigComplexity of apricot and malt nose and a pleasant, tasty, flavoursome and robust andaromas with a touch of yeast. lightweight palate. George Gale & Co. Ltd in great condition. For oneGood bitterness on the palate Prize Old Ale UK Strong judge, it was “an outstandingand masses of flavour with a UK ALE/ Ale HHH1/2 beer experience”.fruity hop finish. STRONG ALE Powerful, smoky meat nose, followed by a big, brash and Bridge Road BrewersBridge Road Brewers Bling 16 TASTED very challenging high-alcohol Robust Porter HHHHHIndia Pale Ale HHH1/2 9 AWARDED palate and huge finish. Big, malty nose with fruityBig, hoppy nose and a palate hops peeping through thethat has a complex malt/hop Lots of solid beers in this group Brewboys Seeing Double malt. Smooth and creamyprofile and finishes quite dry. without any being outstanding. South Australia Scottish palate, with lovely balance and Overall these were good Ale HHH1/2 harmony of the excellent maltSightings examples of the styles. “Ideal for Smoky peat bouquet and and hop complexity of flavours.American Pale Ale HHH sipping by the fireplace - before powerful palate high in alcohol,Light, sweet fruit bouquet and the hunt!” mused one judge. with quite sweet flavoursquite a zesty palate with light showing a slight burnt character.ale flavours. Shepherd Neame Bishops Finger Kent UK Greene King UKDARK & Strong Ale HHH1/2 Abbot Ale HHHBLACK BEERS Lighter style with clean fresh Hoppy nose and very nice malt/hop aromas and a very balance of malt sweetness and7 TASTED nicely balanced palate. Well- hop bitterness in the mouth.3 AWARDED made brew. Samuel Smith’s YorkshireA number of border line beers Old Speckled Hen Nut Brown Ale HHHhere and a few excellent UK Fine Ale HHH1/2 Big and malty on the nose withexamples with great fresh hops Subtle hop aromas with subtle hops; much the sameand balancing malts. a yeasty edge and a nice for the palate. harmony of hop and maltMoo Brew Tasmania flavours on a soft palate. INTERNATIONALDark Ale HHHH1/2 BEERSExcellent complex, toasty maltaromas and a big, bold palate 5 TASTEDwith, as one judge said, “lots to 2 AWARDEDlike!” Rich malts with good hopbitterness, great flavour length A couple of unusual beers here.and lovely clean finish.70 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingCoopers Brewery Australia Cascade Smooth Kwak Belgium TRAPPISTEBest Extra Stout HHHHH & Rich Stout HHHH Beer HHHHH & ABBEY BEERSThis big, black, powerful stout Very well balanced stout with Bright golden copper colourhas everything it needs. Big, big, sweet, earthy/malty nose with good compact head. 4 TASTEDrich, chocolaty/toasty malt and sweet palate loaded with Rich, full and developing 4 AWARDEDaromas and great tasting earthy/ attractive coffee-like flavours. roasted aromas and loads ofsmoky/malty palate with a very flavours on the soft, smooth Solid group of eclectic beerslong, bright and pristine finish. James Squire Australia palate that finishes with a influenced by botanicals and Porter HHH1/2 subtle bitter/sweetness. fruit derivatives. Worth trying ifSamuel Smith Yorkshire Big, dark, malty nose leading Chimay Blue Cap Belgium you want something different,Imperial Stout HHHH1/2 onto a huge, flavoursome palate Peres Trappistes HHHH1/2 particularly as a food beverage.Toasty/malty bouquet with with a long, lingering, soft finish. Big, rich and warming dark brownsome sherry-like characteristics. style with some vanilla evident Achel Brune TrappistExcellent dry palate with big Mad Brewers Noir on the nose and a full, creamy Brune Biere HHHH1/2coffee/chocolate flavour profile - Stout HHH1/2 palate with a lovely bitter/sweet Bright, fresh beer, mediumfresh and balanced, with plenty Very sweet, dark malty bouquet combination of flavours. brown in colour with strongof alcohol. and plenty of sweet malty Chimay Red Cap Belgium tarry/roasted characters onBelhaven Brewery flavours, high alcohol level and a Peres Trappistes HHHH the nose showing a touch ofScotland Scottish pleasant drying finish. Creamy/nutty bouquet, with apricot. Nicely flavoured palateStout HHHH attractive herbal/spicy elements has sweet roasted charactersPleasant dark stout with a Sinha Sri Lanka creating a full-flavoured palate and a bitter end.big, sweet, malty nose and Stout HHH1/2 with a creamy malt finish.moderate palate weight with Dry herbal hops on the nose, and La Guillotine New Norciabig, well-balanced flavours and big, dark and sweet chocolaty Belgium Ale HHH1/2 Western Australiafinishing well. flavours with a very dry finish. Golden brew with slight yeasty Abbey Ale HHH1/2 nose and a sweet complexity Subtle herbal, nutty rancio BELGIAN of malty/hops flavours. Good bouquet and a sweet herbal example of a Belgian ale. palate with nice spicy notes. 7 TASTED “A curio,” suggested one judge. 5 AWARDED Orval Trappist Ale HHH1/2 Great class of genuine, Estery banana aromas and full complex and flavoursome spicy/cinnamon/banana palate styles. “The holy grail of with bubblegum sweetness. beers,” said one judge. “These A food beer. may change your mind or at least stretch your palate!” Rochefort 10 Trappist Beer HHH Leffe Belgium Big, bold, sweet malt Brune HHHHH nose and loads of rich and Deep copper/bronze colour powerful sweet flavours. with rich, sweet malt aromas nicely balanced by the hops. Lovely creamy mouthfeel with meaty/nutty flavours edged with caramel and mocha elements. Nice bitter finish.Brenton Quirini Mark Braby JUDGESManaging director of Empire Guest servicesLiquor Wholesalers. Has manager at the Adelaide Simon Sellickworked in the wholesale liquor Entertainment Centre. Head Brewer Brewboysindustry for 30 years and Has spent 30 years in commerical brewing forpresident of the Wholesale hospitality, including 12 the past 9 years. JudgeLiquor Merchants Association years judging amateurof SA. Distributor and importer brewing shows. at local and nationalof more than 80 imported beer Past president of the beer shows.brands from 23 countries. Adelaide Beer Club.Regular judge for Winestate’sannual beer tasting. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 71

The way to enhance your beer. Beer Classics Tall PilsnerAvailable at selected homewares retail outlets and online at www.spiegelau.com.au or call 02 9966 0033.

320 TASTED181 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA solid, if unspectacular, class of new release wines with excellent OTHER WHITEexamples at the pointy end of each style. A big surprise was VARIETALSthe very high quality of the 2010 chardonnays, auguring well & BLENDSfor the future. Another surprise was that the cabernet blendswere better than the ‘straight’ cabernets, while the shiraz blends 14 TASTEDperformed poorly. Stand-alone shiraz again stood out! 9 AWARDEDSPARKLING Chain of Ponds Oxenberry McLaren Solid, easy-drinking, Art Wine Clare Diva Adelaide Hills Vale Sparkling Red no-fault, well-made17 TASTED Sparkling Pinot NV HHH wines without being7 AWARDED Chardonnay Youthful red berry spectacular. These were 2008 HHH1/2 aromas and good length made for a particularToo many ordinary fruity Nose has fresh of attractive flinty fruit market and havewines here showing strawberries with a flavours. $9 achieved that purpose.broad, developing fruit and touch of yeast. Good Jansz Tasmaniavery little yeast autolysis. lively fruit flavours with Vintage Rosé WindowrieGenerally disappointing! nice mouthfeel, length 2006 HHH The Mill Central and balance. $50 Toasty red cherry Ranges Verdelho bouquet and broad, 2010 HHH1/2 savoury palate with Nice oily, melon-like Valley Viognier drying finish. $39.95 aromas and well- 2010 HHH OMNI Bellini structured, warm, fruit Lovely bright and light, South Australia salad flavoured palate with austere style with White Peach crisp acid finish. $16.99 preserved apricot-like fruit Cocktail NV HHH characters. 3-5 $19 Candied peach aromas Willunga 100 and sweet, luscious, McLaren Vale Prince Hill Cowra fruit-driven palate. Easy Adelaide Hills Verdelho 2010 HHH drinker. $12.50 Viognier Pleasant florals on the Amberley 2010 HHH1/2 nose. Soft and oily in Kiss & Tell Moscato Bright and shiny wine the mouth, with citrus Rosa 2010 HHH with inviting jubey/ flavours and hint of Floral bouquet with apricot aromas and firm, lychees. $19 melon notes and palate full-flavoured citrus/ full of very sweet lychee melon palate. $23 Swings & flavours. $14.99 Roundabouts Swings & Backyard SeriesMount William Mirabella Vineyards Roundabouts Margaret RiverMacedon Blanc de Riverland SA Margaret River Chenin BlancBlanc 2004 HHHH Sparkling Shiraz Chenin Blanc 2010 HHHLovely complex aromas NV HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Very attractivewith aged characters Fresh, fruit-driven Nice sweaty passionfruit/ passionfruit andand wild mushroom nose. Creamy in the melon bouquet and pineapple fruitnotes. Layered and mouth and tasting of tangy tropical palate with characters with a hint ofcomplex palate with soft raspberries. $18 flavours that linger on. oak and lift of acid. $29and subtle citrus/appleflavours. $40 3-5 $17 Rocland Estate McLaren Vale Running with Bulls Marsanne Viognier South Australia Roussanne 2009 HHH Vermentino Interesting honeycomb/ 2010 HHH melon bouquet and Delicate melon/apricot powerful, persistent aromas and rich, peachy stone-fruit flavours. $22 flavours with good acid zing. $19.95 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73

Zonte’s Footstep Kim Crawford Forester Estate Sea Mist Langhorne Marlborough Margaret River Creek Verdelho Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH Combination of lemon, Grassy/green pea Smells of wet grass and pear and herbal aromas extrovert of a nose, herbs and has a crisp, mirrored on the lively followed by a palate herbaceous, aperitif- palate. $16.50 with a big, tart, fruit style palate. $23 salad flavour impact. SAUVIGNON Minnow Creek BLANC 3-5 $23.99 The Silver Minnow & BLENDS Hardys Electric Adelaide Hills Light South Sauvignon Blanc 24 TASTED Australia Sauvignon 2010 HHH 14 AWARDED Blanc Pinot Grigio Very subtle lychee/ 2010 HHH1/2 tropical nose, and Lots of borderline wines Sweaty tropical aromas tropical flavours showing here, tending to lower- and a palate dominated a slight chalky edge. $20 intensity quaffers rather by the sauvignon blanc - than more complex styles. “but it works,” said one Warrenmang judge. $15.99 Pyrenees Sauvignon Kettle Lane Mad Fish Western Blanc 2010 HHH Marlborough Australia Sauvignon Dry wine with some Sauvignon Blanc Blanc Semillon varietal fruit impact, 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 crisp acid and slight Up-front flinty/citrus/ Nose not giving much smoky characters. $20 herbaceous nose and away but the palate has full-flavoured citrus palate some nicely integrated Reschke Coonawarra with a light minerally melon/fruit salad Sauvignon Blanc character that travels on flavours. $17 2010 HHH to the drying acid finish. Mad Fish Sideways Oily, tropical, perfumed Margaret River nose and some nicely 3-5 $16.99 Sauvignon Blanc balanced, silky, tropical Semillon 2010 HHH flavours. $20 Crisp, lively aperitif style with flinty green Palandri The Estates bean, grassy and herbal Western Australia characters. $20 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 HHH Howard Park Subtle grassy/capsicum Western Australia nose and full-lavoured Sauvignon Blanc palate with clean acid 2010 HHH finish. $22 Very attractive grassy/ herbal bouquet and a PINOT GRIS/ soft, melon-flavoured GRIGIO palate with balancing acidity. $25 11 TASTED 3 AWARDED Nautilus Nobilo Regional Too many wines here Collection lacked vibrancy of fruit Marlborough and had too much Sauvignon Blanc skin extraction. Slight 2010 HHH browning of colour is a Good combo of grassy feature of this variety so and tropical characters is not an issue. on nose and palate, Marlborough with balancing acidity. Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHH 3-5 $16.50 Powerful passionfruit Windowrie The Mill and ripe lime aromas Central Ranges with lots of vibrant Sauvignon Blanc tropical/herbaceous Semillon 2010 HHH flavours that linger Simple dry white long after the wine has with well-combined gone. 3-5 $26.95 flinty/grassy/mineral characters and smoky elements. $16.9974 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Pooley Coal River Valley Tasmania Riesling 2009 HHHH Delicate citrus/floral aromas with some pleasant aged characters developing, and dry, spicy flavours with an astringent finish. $26 WINNER WINESTATE WINE OF THE YEARChain of Ponds Penna Lane Skilly Forest Hill VineyardAmelia’s Letter Clare Valley Riesling Great Southern WAAdelaide Hills Pinot 2010 HHHHH Riesling 2010 HHHHGrigio 2010 HHHH Very attractive nose with Fragrant, perfumedDeveloping orange its lifted minerally/floral nose with delicate citrusblossom aromas with a aromas showing delicate notes. Lovely balance ofminerally edge and a crisp herbal nuances. Great fine acid with pure citrusand lively mineral/orange palate full of varietal fruit fruit flavours and anpalate. Good example of flavours and showing astringent finish. $26the variety. $20 a minerally spine with balancing acid. $25 Howard Park GreatHenley Hill Yarra Naked Run The First Southern RieslingValley Pinot Grigio Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHH1/22010 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Fresh lime aromasTrue grigio style - crisp Full-on, pungent varietal and well-structured,lively aperitif wine full aromas and loads of crisp, lively, dry palate.of pear and apple fruit lovely intensity of riesling Excellent example ofcharacters. $18 flavours reminiscent of a riesling designed for HANDCRAFTING limes and lemons that ageing. 5+ $30 OUTSTANDINGSirromet 820 Above flow along the entire CABERNET SAUVIGNONVineyard Selection length of the palate. $18 Penna LaneGranite Belt Pinot Lengs & Cooter Clare Valley Riesling 2007 Cabernet SauvignonGris 2010 HHH Watervale Riesling 2010 HHHIntense ripe pear 2010 HHHH Strong lime aromas and top gold medal - 2010 National Wine Showbouquet and broad but Sweet apples and an interesting powerful gold medal - 2010 Adelaide Wine Showbalanced pear/nectarine lemony citrus lift off palate with plenty gold medal - 2010 Brisbane Wine Showpalate. $17 the nose. Crisp and dry of flavour and crisp palate full of tart flavours acidity. $20 2008 Cabernet SauvignonRIESLING and with a clean, astringent finish. $19 Truffle Hill gold medal - 2010 Hobart Wine Show17 TASTED Kettle Lane Pemberton Reserve gold medal - 2010 Australian10 AWARDED Tasmania Riesling Series Western Small Winemakers Show 2010 HHHH Australia Riesling gold medal - 2010 Brisbane Wine ShowStrong class, with Very fragrant bouquet - 2010 HHHquite a few showing smells of frangipani and Attractive, lively citrus Step Roadflavour, character and jasmine. Palate full of nose with drying lemon Langhorne Creeka nice balance of acids character, with its exotic acid flavours. $21.60 ph 08 8537 3017and astringency. A safe fruit and orange blossom www.lakebreeze.com.aubet overall. flavours and crisp acid spine. $16.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75

NEW RELEASESGlendalough Buller Beverford Evans & Tate Sylvan Springs Sem The MarquiseEstate Two Angels Semillon Sauvignon Metricup Road Sauv. McLaren Vale Mt GambierClare Valley Riesling Blanc 2009 HHHHH Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay2010 HHH Stylish, well-balanced, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHHHHSmells of brown lime sophisticated wine that’s Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Tropical nose with Intense lemon/floralcordial and has a palate quite austere with lovely Herbaceous green pea herbal undertones and aromas with lovelythat is dry, clean, fresh balance of tart lemon/ aromas follow through sweet melon flavours. background of toasty/and lively. $20 grapefruit flavours to a palate with a nice Crowd pleaser. $12.99 nutty oak. Perfectly threaded through with balance of residual complete palate exhibitingSEMILLON herbaceous elements sugar and mineral CHARDONNAY lovely depth of ripe& BLENDS and showing a mineral acidity. $22.99 2010 tropical fruit expression spine. $13 Saddler’s Creek and well-handled subtlety9 TASTED Wills Domain Reserve Hunter 25 TASTED of oak. $21.957 AWARDED Margaret River Valley Semillon 16 AWARDED Cuttaway Hill Semillon 2009 HHHH 2006 HHH1/2 Southern HighlandsSolid class, as Complex wine with Big, rich, dry semillon Excellent class of Chardonnayexpected from this some lovely peaches showing honeyed bottle flavoursome, well- 2010 HHHHHconsistent variety. and cream characters age but still clean and balanced chardonnays Intense lemon aromas mingling with nicely vibrant and nicely layered ranging in style from the with a heady floral lift. handled toasty oak and with soft acidity. $38 leaner, restrained wines As for the palate, “It’s good level of drying with pure varietal fruit to perfection!” declared tannins. $25 Penna Lane Clare the richer, fuller, tropical one judge of its endless Preveli Margaret Valley Semillon ones. Both styles were length of intense, River Semillon 2010 HHH notable for their great pristine, varietal fruit Sauvignon Blanc Elegant, minerally style palate length. flavours and crisp, lively 2010 HHH1/2 full of citrus and lemon acid. Chablis style. $20 Tropical sauvignon blanc flavours. “Great on a Quarisa Johnny Q fruit dominates the picnic,” suggested one South Australia nose. Palate has lovely judge. $18 Chardonnay lifted, grassy freshness 2010 HHHHH with some residual Lovely restrained style sugar. $19 with fresh, delicate, fragrant nose and nicely focused pretty fruit palate with crisp acidity and some subtle nutty oak characters sitting underneath. $11.99 Truffle Hill Pemberton Reserve Series Western Australia Chardonnay 2010 HHHH1/2 Nose of reserved melon fruits mingling with fresh, toasty oak. Lovely length of tight nutty/citrus flavours on a minerally palate. All it needs now is some time in the cellar to really shine. $23.40JUDGES Glenn James Steve Warrick Winemaker and Director of Wine consultant. Formerly Peter Simic Ducks in a Row Winemakers, sales and marketing Editor/publisher Winestate an independent and boutique manager for the Hamilton Magazine. More than 30 years’ label based in Adelaide. Wine Group. 10 years’ experience in the wine industry. Glenn is an experienced experience working in Formerly founding publisher of senior wine show judge and McLaren Vale, Coonawarra a US wine magazine, manager is the former Group Red and and the Adelaide Hills. of the SA Wine Information Group White winemaker for Has judged at the Bureau, and wine educator Foster’s Wine Estates and Adelaide, McLaren Vale with Regency College of TAFE Group White winemaker for and Hobart wine shows. in SA. Peter is also a regular the Hardy Wine Company. wine commentator on national radio and television programs.76 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingd’Arenberg Ridgemill Estate TemptationThe Olive Grove Pedigree Granite ResistantMcLaren Vale Belt Chardonnay Wine CellaringAdelaide Hills 2010 HHH1/2Chardonnay Smoky oak quite obvious Your wine is a valuable and2010 HHHH on the nose, followed by treasured asset,Very lean, restrained a complexity of oak and to important to risk beingstyle of chardonnay lemony fruit on the nicely ruined by poor storage...with a lemon thyme- textured palate. $25like nose followed by Swings & • Climate controllednicely rounded sweet Roundabouts • 7 Day Accessfruit flavours with a soft Margaret River • Alarmed & CCTVfinish. $15 Chardonnay 2010 HHH with Digital Recording Lifted, drink-now, • Conveniently Located tropical fruit style with • 6 Cases up to Hundreds a soft, fleshy, citrus • No Handling Fees palate. $19 • No Access Charges • No Fixed Contracts DiGiorgio Family Coonawarra Adelaide Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Thebarton Racy, fresh wine with 08 8443 8022 interesting green melon and oatmeal aromas and Brisbane similar characters on the supple, fleshy palate. $23 Milton 07 3217 5555Morgan’s Adelaide Tapestry MV Taylors JaramanHills Chardonnay McLaren Vale South Australia Sydney2010 HHHH Chardonnay ChardonnayVery subtle tropical fruit 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Artarmonnose with a lovely exotic, Candied peach/melon Lovely length and balance 02 9413 3377spicy twist, followed by a nose and stylish and of melon and peach fruitfull-flavoured palate with well-textured palate full with some subtle savoury Brookvalelovely line and length. $15 of pear and peach-like oak. $24.50 02 9905 1177Wills Domain flavours and showing aMargaret River chalky edge. $18 CamperdownChardonnay Hungerford Hill 02 9519 37992010 HHHH TumbarumbaNutty oak dominates the Chardonnay Rozellenose and is underscored 2010 HHH1/2 02 9555 1099by estery citrus aromas. Complex, minerally styleLovely palate complexity with lemony aromas Waterloowith intense varietal fruit and a crisp, clean, citrus 02 9699 9333expression. $45 palate with a long, drying finish. $28 MelbourneNeville Falkenberg JUDGES AbbotsfordWine consultant. Formerly 03 9417 1477senior winemaker for Ross Walter ClappisEstate. Previously chief Winemaker/owner of HuntingdaleWinemaker at Chain of the Hedonist Wine 03 9543 8099Ponds Wines for five years; Company. Formerly31 vintages completed, winemaker/owner Ivanhoewith 26 years at Tollana and of Ingoldby Wines. 03 9497 5900Penfolds Wines. Associate Associate judge atjudge Adelaide and Cowra and judged for Port MelbourneCanberra wine shows. Malaysia Airlines panel. 03 9646 7766 Ph: 1800 658 855 www.kss.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77

NEW RELEASESForester Estate Preveli Margaret ROSE PINOT NOIR Georges MichelMargaret River River Chardonnay Golden MileChardonnay 2009 HHHH 8 TASTED 10 TASTED Marlborough Pinot2010 HHH Lifted, youthful peaches 3 AWARDED 5 AWARDED Noir 2009 HHH1/2Fragrant floral nose and and cream-like fruit Small batch of rosés The judges found this Candied raspberrynice range of flavours, bouquet. Complex, racy tending to the more class an effort to judge, aromas, developingsome crisp acid and palate with lovely creamy savoury rather than light with lots of different nicely. Very elegant,warm finish. $30 citrus flavours and a long, and bright styles. characters tending long, soft palate with drying finish. $24 to riper and heavier great poise and someWindowrie Forest Hill Luna Rosa flavours rather than nice pinot fruit. $26The Mill Central Vineyard Block 8 Central Ranges finesse and vibrancy.Ranges Chardonnay Mount Barker Rosado 2010 HHHH Kim Crawford2010 HHH WA Chardonnay Lovely nose smelling Opawa Marlborough PinotMelon skin aromas with 2009 HHH like crushed raspberries, Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 HHHa floral lift and a nicely Spicy/limey complexity leading to a supple, Noir 2009 HHHH Hint of beetroot ontextured, flavoursome, on the nose. Great life textured, savoury/herbal Fresh, lively, vibrant, the sweet, fruity nose,minerally palate. $16.99 and balance to a palate palate. Very European wild berry nose with with supple red cherry with racy acidity. $45 style. $14.99 earthy/barnyard palate showing a greenMallee Estate Georges Michel La Scarpantoni Ceres characters. Lovely edge. $25Riverland SA Reserve Marlborough McLaren Vale Rosé mouthwatering palateChardonnay Chardonnay 2010 HHHH with fresh varietal Pooley Coal River2010 HHH 2008 HHH Red cherry and flavours and warming Valley TasmaniaPleasant melon pulp Developed, syrupy, fruit cranberry aromas with alcohol. $28.95 Pinot Noir 2009 HHHnose and full-flavoured salad aromas and a ripe, slightly pungent herbal Spring Vale Freycinet Subtle but complexsweet, rich, honeyed fleshy palate that’s soft complexity, and a lively Coast Pinot Noir red loam-like nose,palate. $11 and developed. $25 flavoursome palate with 2009 HHH1/2 and earthy wild berry/ Balgownie Estate nice drying finish. $13.99 Earthy bouquet with savoury palate. $35CHARDONNAY Bendigo Chardonnay De Beaurepaire leafy eucalypt/tobacco2009 & OLDER 2009 HHH Captain Starlight lift and stylish, lighter OTHER RED Buttery characters Series NSW Rosé style of palate with good VARIETALS15 TASTED dominate the peachy 2010 HHH savoury characters. $40 & BLENDS7 AWARDED nose. Flavoursome Cherry cake and palate with nice raspberry pip characters 20 TASTED“We need to be more balancing nutty oak. $40 on the nose, and a big, 10 AWARDEDselective with the older Hardys HRB/D648 sweet palate with herbalwines,” said one judge. Pemberton & elements. $19 “Tough going,” thought“These are fuller, with Adelaide Hills the judges. Lots ofless finesse than the Chardonnay different varietals in2010 vintage, but do 2009 HHH different styles; someoffer lots of flavour.” Subtle fragrances of done well, others less so! exotic fruits and oak. No one variety stood out.Voyager Estate Nice citrus flavours withMargaret River drying tannins. $32.99 Prince HillChardonnay Mudgee Barbera2008 HHHH 2009 HHHH1/2One judge thought Very nice, well-madethe wine smelt like a wine - soft and full ofchocolate milkshake! flavour, with a leafy/Rich, sweet citrus palate herbal bouquet and long,with gentle sweetness savoury, medium-bodiedand lovely creamy palate brimming overtexture. $42 with sweet fruit and some fine tannins. $19Dromana EstateMornington Charles CimickyPeninsula Barossa Valley DurifChardonnay 2008 HHHH2009 HHHH Dense dark fruit aromasSavoury smoky/toasty with a cardamom-aromas. Lots of interest like spicy lift. Dense,on a palate showing tannic palate with solidtexture and complexity concentration of meaty/with chalky tannins and sweet fruit flavours. $40soft oak. $3278 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting St Johns Limited Release Zinfandel 2009 HHH Aged fruit cake aromas and a drying, hot, tannic palate with cooked spicy fruit characters. $35 Brokenwood Beechworth Sangiovese 2008 HHH Prune-like, verging on date-like, aromas and a minerally palate with assertive acidity. $30 919 Riverland Tempranillo 2009 HHH Toasty, tarry oak aromas and a tannic palate with youthful fruit and good acidity.Running with A keeper. 5+ $38Bulls WrattonbullyTempranillo GRENACHE2009 HHHH & BLENDSGood style with awarm leather/savoury 8 TASTEDnose and vibrant,youthful, bramble-like 6 AWARDEDpalate with drying tanninsand good background of Another solid, ifacidity. $19.95 unspectacular, group.Lamont’s Winery Heat was an issue forBlack Monster the ‘08 and ‘09 vintages.Western AustraliaMalbec 2009 HHH1/2 VinrockJust a baby! Lovely McLaren Valecrimson colour with rich Grenache Shirazand vibrant inky varietal Mataro 2010 HHHHfruit characters, and a Smells of blackberry and‘thick’ palate. $55 dark cherries. Palate fullLashmar Nebbiolo of earthy, black cherry2007 HHH1/2 flavours laced withGreat example of the cedary oak, tight tanninsvariety. Savoury tones and lingering finish. $20on the nose and quite anassertive, tannic palate Bethany Barossawith mouth-watering Old Vine Grenacheacidity. $19 2008 HHH1/2Running With Bulls Well-aged wine withBarossa Tempranillo gamey/barnyard2010 HHH1/2 characters on the noseNicely structured, well- and smooth, integratedbalanced wine with good fruit/oak flavours. Goodcrimson colour. Crushed food wine. $20berry aromas and quitetart flavours. $19.95 St Johns LimitedRidgemill Estate Release GrenacheGranite Belt Shiraz MourvedreMonastrell 2009 HHHTempranillo Nose all leather, cigar2009 HHH box and plums, whichIntense boysenberry- are mirrored on thelike bouquet with lovely young, firm palate. $35peppery lift, and a racy,berry pip palate. $20 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79

NEW RELEASESDowie Doole Preveli MargaretG & T McLaren River CabernetVale Garnacha Merlot 2009 HHHHTempranillo Lovely wine - all red2010 HHH fruits, spices andBig candied plum nose oak, with seamlessand well-structured, integration of the vibrantgamey palate with earthy/ varietal fruit with theleathery notes. $25 oak. A classic merlot!Yelland & Papps 5+ $25.99Devote BarossaValley Old Vine Windowrie The MillGrenache 2009 HHH Hilltops CabernetMinty lift to the nose, Merlot 2010 HHHHwith nice integration of Lifted cassis and freshvibrant berry fruit and bramble aromas withoak. $32 nicely integrated, vibrant, varietal fruitNaked Run The on a palate showingAldo Barossa Valley length and elegance.Old Vine GrenacheShiraz 2009 HHH 5+ $16.99Meaty/dark berry noseand firm, grippy palate Saracen Estateswith sweet mulberry Margaret Riverflavours. $18 Taylors Clare Valley Taylors Promised Brangayne of Cabernet Merlot Merlot 2009 HHHH Land South Orange Tristan 2009 HHH1/2MERLOT Rich, well-structured Australia Merlot Orange Cabernet Dusty/leathery& BLENDS wine with a lovely 2010 HHH Sauvignon Shiraz aromas - a tad porty. combination of rhubarb, Nice integration of Merlot 2009 HHHH Soft in the mouth,13 TASTED mulberry, earthy and raspberry, mulberry and Smoky charry oak sits with greenish/minty8 AWARDED spicy elements, soft, furry fruit cake characters on top of some youthful flavours. Shows some tannins and nice oak. $18 on this youthful wine. fruit aromas and a potential. 5+ $22Solid result, particularly medium-bodied, tart,given the difficult ‘08 and Gardners Ground 3-5 $13 forest fruit palate. Needs Dowie Doole Second‘09 vintages experienced Organic Wine Nature McLarenin the south. The best Canowindra Merlot Prince Of Orange to be cellared for some Vale Cabernet Shirazwines exhibited vibrant 2008 HHH1/2 Orange Merlot time. 5+ $30 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2fruit with appropriate Gamey, cool-climate 2010 HHH Blackberry jam nose withuse of oak. style with plenty of Smells of beetroot, slight bitumen-like notes, sweet berry fruit, some black olives and and elegant palate withDe Beaurepaire nice smoky oak and ripe plums and has solid sweet fruit flavours.Captain Starlight grippy tannins. $19.99 an uncomplicated,Series NSW Merlot flavoursome berry 3-5 $18Cabernet Petit palate. 3-5 $22Verdot 2009 HHHH Saddler’s Creek Jarrah Ridge WinesVery nice, well- Reserve Fleurieu CABERNET Virginia Chitteringintegrated, complex Peninsula Merlot BLENDS Valley Cabernetwine with currant-like 2008 HHH1/2 Merlot 2010 HHH1/2richness on the nose Powerful but soft oaky 14 TASTED Savoury nose with aand creamy dark berry aromas with a dash of decent hit of oak, andflavours with a fine pepper and spice. Elegant 11 AWARDED big acid/tannic ‘whack’tannin balance. $19 palate with impressive to a palate with sweet flavour depth. $42 Very strong class, fruit and oak flavours. which in particular Windowrie The Mill showed the great blend 3-5 $18 of cabernet and merlot. Central Ranges Many wines here showed Baldivis Estate Merlot 2010 HHH vitality and finesse. Frankland & Cherry/berry and Margaret Rivers strawberry nose with Cabernet Merlot subtle touch of cedar 2009 HHH oak, and rich, chocolaty Oaky nose with a flavours. 3-5 $16.99 Voyager Estate Girt perfumed edge, and an By Sea Margaret acidic, tannic palate with River Cabernet Merlot St Johns Limited some sweet cassis fruit. Virgara South Release Cabernet Australia Merlot 2009 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Merlot 5+ $15 Smoky/savoury nose Cabernet Sauvignon with hints of lamb fat Petit Verdot Malbec Malbec 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH Cockatoo Ridge Powerful, estery, smoky and berry fruits. Similar Elegant fruit nose with Cabernet Merlot characters echoed on 2009 HHH bacon/black olive nose the lithe and elegant attractive oak integration Soft, well-made, and juicy fruit/cedary oak and lovely soft, juicy, commercial style flavours. 5+ $30 palate with its lovely cassis/oak palate. Good with pleasant berry/ seamless balance of oak mocha characters and fruit. 5+ $24 style and definitely a throughout. $11.99 keeper. 5+ $3580 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingBrokenwood Cricket Dowie DoolePitch South Eastern McLaren ValeAustralia Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Merlot 2008 HHHH1/2Shiraz 2009 HHH Clean, elegant cabernetBig, simple wine with with some lovely woodbroad fruit aromas seamlessly integratedand soft, fleshy fruit with gorgeous varietal fruitflavours. $19 that’s showing a pleasant hint of mint. Plenty of lifeCABERNET ahead of it. 5+ $22SAUVIGNON Setanta Black30 TASTED Sanglain Adelaide14 AWARDED Hills Cabernet SauvignonToo many wines 2008 HHHHhere were in the dry Lifted, juicy, cassis fruitred spectrum rather nose with a subtlety ofthan being varietals. classy oak, and vibrant,The better wines did youthful palate withshow the required fruit well-retained sweetvibrancy without being nectarine-like fruitoverblown. “Cabernet characters. $29needs lightness withflavour and the ‘green Wills Domaindeath’ should be Reserve Cabernetavoided at all costs.” Sauvignon 2007 HHHH Lovely, well-aged, chocolaty cabernet with a soft, seamless, integration of varietal fruit and oak. Some very fine and elegant tannins. $36 Yelland & Papps Devote Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Some elegance here, with a pleasant combination of honeycomb and varietal fruit characters on the nose and good depth of fruit flavours with drying oak. $32Saracen Estates Ross Hill PinnacleReserve Margaret Series OrangeRiver Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon 2009 HHH1/22008 HHHH1/2 Well-structured,Lovely varietal cabernet well-balanced winewith an attractive spicy with good cabernetoak/dark fruit bouquet characters. Perfumed/and a very-well- violet nose and elegantstructured palate that’s forest fruit palate. $35bursting with attractive Lengs & Cootergreen/stalky cabernet Swinton McLarenfruit. $70 Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2 Complex wine with lovely bottle age development mixed with ripe fruit and mocha oak. “A good solid Aussie red.” $25 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 81

NEW RELEASESVilla Tinto Reschke Empyrean Quarisa Johnny Q SHIRAZ 2009 Saracen EstatesBarossa Valley Coonawarra South Australia Reserve MargaretCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Viognier 28 TASTED River Shiraz2007 HHH1/2 2004 HHH 2009 HHH 20 AWARDED 2009 HHHHHWell-made wine with “A curio still offering Big, full-bodied, Very solid class with Tarry, ripe plum aromasthe potential to be great great drinking,” said one flavoursome wine with lots of generous flavour with just a whisperin the future. Intense judge. Lovely softness of chocolaty/black olive fruit in the better wines and of spices and pepper.fruit characters and fruit and tannins. $115 and cedary oak. $11.99 a touch leaner in some More spicy/pepperypowerful tannins. Hold! Coonawarra De Beaurepaire others. Consistently good characters on a warm, Premium Vineyards Leopold Mudgee balance of oak and fruit. stone-fruit palate with 5+ $20 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz Viognier plenty of ripe, sweetElderton Eden Valley Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2009 HHH Saracen Estates fruit and appropriateCabernet Sauvignon Jammy nose with a Easy-drinking style with Margaret River oak. Just a baby. Hold!2010 HHH savoury edge, and a sweet plum aromas and Shiraz 2009 HHHHHPleasant “basket sweet/savoury palate with warm, juicy, sweet fruit “Pepper and spice 5+ $50of berries” aromas a warm finish. $22.95 flavours. $28 and all things nice!”and very good palate d’Arenberg The Wild enthused one judge.weight. Youthful crowd SHIRAZ Pixie McLaren Vale Quite Rhone-like in style,pleaser. $17 BLENDS Shiraz Roussanne with sweet, spicy oakBeelgara Estate 2009 HHH nose and lovely pepperRange South 11 TASTED Warm, grippy wine and spice over solidEastern Australia 6 AWARDED with lifted herbal notes plum fruit flavours, fineCabernet Sauvignon Mixed bag of both the on the nose and an tannins and supportive2009 HHH fresh and lively wines interesting herbal/berry oak. 5+ $35Lighter style with and those with tired/ palate. $29nice spicy cedar oak developed fruit characters. Cuttaway Hill Sevenover some vibrant Daughters Southstone-fruit characters. Paulmara Estate Eastern Australia The Marriage Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 5+ $8.95 & Coonawarra 2008 HHH Shiraz Cabernet Dusty oak nose with 2009 HHHH1/2 some green cabernet Vinrock Scarce Earth Lovely aromas of fruit, and tannic palate McLaren Vale Shiraz black olives and tar with varietal fruit 2009 HHHH1/2 with earthy notes and flavours. $20 Pristine stone- licorice overtones. Mount Tamborine fruit aromas with a Well-structured palate a Granite Belt Shiraz eucalypt lift and gamey complexity of aniseed, tar Cabernet 2008 HHH overtones. Long, and spicy flavours with Warm, rich, fruit-driven lingering meaty/gamey drying oak tannins. $25 style with good sweet flavours on a palate with fruit/oak integration. $35 good balance of tannins and acid. 5+ $35 SHIRAZ 2010Taylors Promised Quarisa Johnny QLand South Australia 3 TASTED South AustraliaCabernet Sauvignon 2 AWARDED Shiraz 2009 HHHH2010 HHH Big, inky nose with“A good Aussie red,” said Elderton Eden Valley lovely cedary oak andone judge. Moody oak Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 sweet fruit aromas.nose and seamless sweet Peppery black olive and Harmonious palatefruit/oak palate. $13 licorice aromas with offers a huge mouthful lovely violet lift, and big, of tarry/dark berry youthful berry palate flavours. $11.99 - very flavoursome.Diggers Bluff Sly Should age well. $17 Kalleske MoppaDog Barossa Valley Pig in the Barossa ValleyCabernet Sauvignon House Cowra Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHH2008 HHH 2010 HHH Lovely licorice andGood mocha-like oak with Smoky nose with a chocolate characters light candied edge, and on the nose, leading to soft, sweet varietal fruit rich, spicy, sweet fruit flavours. $25 flavours nicely balanced with well-handled oak.stewed fruit characters.Nice structure. Ageing 3-5 $28well. 3-5 $1882 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Voyager Estate Margaret River Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Light medicinal notes lift off the sweet berry nose. Good depth of fruit flavours and a drying oak finish. $38 Baldivis Estate Frankland River Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Earthy/tarry bouquet and very generous tarry/ leathery flavours on the soft, rounded palate. Still very youthful. $15Renards Folly Howard Park LestonMcLaren Vale Shiraz Margaret River2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHFull, rich and generous Warm, balancedshiraz with dark berry wine with aromasfruit/mocha oak nose of blackcurrantsand good depth of and black olives andsweet stone-fruit flavours of plums andflavours with a long, mulberries. $40soft, oaky finish. $19.95 Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Orange919 Riverland Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH2009 HHHH Violets and spices onLovely rich, chocolaty the nose and showingfruit bouquet and some nice oak handling. Plumgood gamey/leathery flavours linger on theflavours laced with palate. $35rich, sweet varietal Mount Tamborinefruit. 3-5 $35 RJH Series Granite Belt Black ShirazPaulmara Estate 2009 HHHSyna Barossa Valley Pleasant integrationShiraz 2009 HHHH of sweet fruit and oakBig, rich, youthful wine with a slight medicinal/with a sound structure eucalypt-like edge. $30and seamless integration Dowie Dooleof plum, spice and black McLaren Vale Shirazolive aromas with full, 2009 HHHsoft flavours. $50 Full and generous, with a tannic grip and marzipan, fruit cake and spicy berry characters. $25Tapestry BG & V Grant BurgeMcLaren Vale Shiraz Miamba Barossa2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHRich, full-bodied Black olive/blackcurrantchocolaty shiraz that bouquet with violetexhibits a gorgeous notes, and warm, well-concoction of violet, balanced, chocolatyblack olive and ripe plum palate. $26.95aromas and flavours. $20 BrokenwoodCrabtree Watervale Hunter Valley ShirazClare Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH2009 HHH1/2 Dense tarry/earthySmoky oak nose with nose with nice plumviolets and plums undertones, andshowing through, and pleasant earthy/fruitfull, grippy palate loaded flavours. $40with fruit flavours. $25 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83

NEW RELEASES Swings & Gibson The Dirtman Roundabouts Barossa Shiraz84 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Margaret River 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Massive wine with Peppery, spicy, great potential to age eucalypt mix of aromas, very well. Big black and rich, cedary/cigar olive/blackcurrant-like box palate. $19 fruit characters and earthy/tarry elements. Buller Black Dog Creek King Valley 5+ $24.50 CD Shiraz 2009 HHH Bethany Barossa Lifted Ribena-like Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 aromas and simple, Lifted menthol/black olive juicy plum/rhubarb-like nose and nicely integrated flavours. $15 prune/licorice flavours on a palate with a good SHIRAZ 2008 tannic structure. $28 Fox Creek Short 18 TASTED Row McLaren Vale 11 AWARDED Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Big-impact wine with Strong class with ripe, cedary oak that stands juicy flavours but avoiding out but there is enough the over-the-top ripeness weight of varietal fruit of the ‘08 vintage. to match. Will age well. $28.50 Black Puma Zitta Single Pyrenees Shiraz Vineyard Greenock 2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Big, lively, earthy nose Dense, licorice-like laced with chocolate, bouquet and well- aniseed and plums and structured palate with showing a hint of mint. lovely lingering fruit Big, rich palate brimming flavours. $40 over with long, lingering, Fernfield Wines sweet fruit flavours. $80 Basket Pressed Eden Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH Nice berry richness to the very pretty nose, and a soft, rounded palate that has good flavour length. $10 Lengs & Cooter The Victor McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH Lovely sweet, spicy fruit nose with a tannic, spicy red palate. $19 Forester Estate Margaret River Shiraz 2008 HHH Full, tannic wine with plums and violets on the nose and nice dry red flavours. $20 Outlaw Wines Rocland Estate 5 Star Barossa Valley Lot 147 Single Shiraz 2008 HHHH Vineyard Barossa Powerful, chocolaty Valley Shiraz nose with a lovely 2008 HHH combination of earthy, Dense chocolaty/licorice tarry and juicy plum aromas and warm, aromas and a palate full full-bodied, sweet fruit of flavour with a long, palate. $29.99 warm finish. $25

wine & spirit insider tastingCoonawarra EldertonPremium Vineyards Command SingleCoonawarra Shiraz Vineyard Barossa2008 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHHHEarthy/tarry bouquet and Elegant shiraz with rich, SCARPANTONIsoft, rounded, chocolaty chocolaty sweetness onpalate with barnyardy/ the nose and softness ESTATE GROWN - FAMILY MADEleathery nuances. $22.95 in the mouth, withSHIRAZ nice depth of sweet2007 & OLDER fruit flavours and good tannins. 5+ $8512 TASTED7 AWARDED Chain of Ponds The Ledge Adelaide HillsMixed bag with careful Shiraz 2006 HHHselection required as the At its peak, withwines get older, but it well-aged oak, driedwill be worth the effort. nectarine-like fruit and warming alcohol. $35 Hardys HRB/D641 McLaren Vale & Clare Valley Shiraz 2007 HHH Earthy/gamey style with nice ripe plum fruit and mouth-puckering tannins. $39.99 Jahar Old Vine Barossa Shiraz 2005 HHH Aged wine that’s holding up well. Harmony of sweet fruit and oak, with earthy/ leathery nuances. $40Glendalough Estate Barossa ValleyClare Valley Shiraz Estate E Bass2007 HHHHH Barossa ValleyDelightful, complex Shiraz 2007 HHHwine offering excellent Well-balanced, elegantcellaring potential. Silky, style with spicy,seamless integration of menthol plum fruit andblueberry fruit, licorice refined tannins. $20sweetness and lovelycashew nut oak with rich SWEET WHITEtannins. 5+ $22 & FORTIFIEDLengs & Cooter Old 2 TASTEDVines Clare Valley 1 AWARDEDShiraz 2006 HHHH1/2Dense, generous Naked Run Sweetlicorice and ripe plum Kiss Clare Valleyaromas and a full, rich Riesling 2010 HHH1/2and flavoursome palate Lifted floral/citrus aromastasting of licorice with with a nice spicy lifttarry/ earthy characters. and loads of sweet limeGreat length and flavours and appropriatebalance. $28 residual sugar. $15 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 85

TOP 40Capel Vale Debut Mojo Fizz Adelaide Oakover Wines Burnbrae Mudgee Capel Vale DebutWestern Australia Hills Chardonnay Swan Valley Viognier 2009 WA Verdelho 2010Sparkling Brut NV Pinot Noir Brut Classic White 2010 Good varietal; lovely Very good wine thatSweet citrus nose with Cuvee NV Solid wine that smells apricot bouquet and lively shows the best aspectsa tropical edge, and Developed aged stewed of lychees and feijoa and slightly hot palate. $18 of the variety - it’svery ripe, sweet palate fruit bouquet with has nice palate texture punchy and flavoursomewith good acidity to lemon skin flavours and weight. $15 and smelling and tastingbalance. $19.95 and exhibiting layers of like rockmelon and ripe complexity. $19.95 peaches. Some great acidity. $17.95THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.86 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Fox Gordon Amberley Burnbrae Wicks Estate Barking OwlPrincess Adelaide Secret Lane Margaret Orange Sauvignon Adelaide Hills Sauvignon BlancHills Fiano 2010 River Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Sauvignon Semillon 2010Lifted white peach Blanc 2010 Bright straw colour with Blanc 2010 Very herbal aromasbouquet with nice Estery citrus-like nose pungent aromas and Gorgeous wine with - lovely and fresh -nuttiness. Warm oily with light pineapple gooseberry and kiwi fruit bright green coloured echoed on the longfruit-driven palate - lots notes. Tight crisp palate flavours. $18 and intense pungent well-structured and veryof tropicals with floral with good varietal fruit varietal fruit expression lively palate. $17.95flashes. Good example flavours. $19 more in the New Zealandof the varietal. $19.95 vein. Green tropical bouquet and mouthfilling flavours. $18OTHER WHITE WINES Poachers Ridge Louis’s Block Great Southern best buys Riesling 2009Pinelli Wines Estate WA Late Harvest 2010 Big lift of lime aromas followed by a palate that’s 20less thanGorgeous musky/floral nose and lovely spicy rose austere but exhibits good fruit flavour intensity topetal-like flavours; sweet simple and long. $14 balance the acidity. Good cellaring potential. $18.99 $Preece Dolce Bianco 2010 Kettle Lane Tasmania Riesling 2010Subdued melon pulp nose and broad semi-sweet Very fragrant bouquet - smells of frangipani andvarietal fruit flavours. $15 jasmine. Palate full of character with its exotic fruit and orange blossom flavours and crisp acid spine. $16.99De Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2007 (375ml)Complex nose with a slight hessian suggestion. Naked Run The First Clare Valley Riesling 2010Finely structured elegant palate with good botrytis Full-on pungent varietal aromas and loads of lovelyelements. $13.90 intensity of riesling flavours reminiscent of limes and lemons that flow along the entire length of the palate. $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 87

TOP 40Capel Vale Debut Sirromet 820 Above Chain of Ponds Preveli HoughtonWestern Australia Vineyard Selection Novello Adelaide Hills Margaret River Margaret RiverSauvignon Blanc Granite Belt Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay 2009Semillon 2010 Pinot Gris 2010 Blanc 2010 Blanc 2010 Slightly pungent cool-Fresh, fragrant and Intense ripe pear Well-made wine - lovely Tropical sauvignon blanc climate fruit charactersperfumed nose and bouquet and broad but meld of green tropical fruit dominates the on the nose and a richlively citrus sherbet-like balanced pear/nectarine and citrus varietal nose. Palate has lovely tropical palate. $17.99palate. $17.95 palate. $17 characters. $16 lifted grassy freshness with some residual sugar. $19TOP 40 Nepenthe Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2010 Patritti South Australia Moscato 2010 Fresh fragrant nose smelling of peas and apple Simple zesty passionfruit aromas with a muscat lift. blossom. Stylish palate with a mouthful of some very Great tropical fruit characters on the palate. Well- nice flavours - a combination of pears and peaches. made wine. $8.80 Good line of acid. $19 Centennial Vineyards Bong Bong Southern Henley Hill Yarra Valley Pinot Grigio 2010 Highland White 2010 True grigio style - crisp lively aperitif wine full of pear Simple musky/floral/perfumed nose with big and apple fruit characters. $18 mouthful of spicy stone-fruit flavours. $19 Swings & Roundabouts Margaret River Mad Fish Western Australia Sauvignon Blanc Chenin Blanc 2010 Semillon 2010 Nice sweaty passionfruit/melon bouquet and Nose not giving much away but the palate has some tangy tropical palate with flavours that linger on. nicely integrated melon/fruit salad flavours. $17 3-5 $1788 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Wild Oats Mudgee Traditions Sea Kellermeister Oakover Wines AmberleyChardonnay 2009 Breeze White Eden Valley Eiswein Swan Valley Kiss & Tell MoscatoLightly perfumed McLaren Vale 2010 (375ml) Rosé 2010 Rosa 2010nose with a spicy lift. Chardonnay NV Luminous golden wine More dry red in character Floral bouquet withVery appealing fig Attractive golden-hued with perfumed lychee- with strawberries and melon notes and palatecashew and stone- nicely balanced sweet like bouquet and very plums on the nose and full of very sweet lycheefruit characters on the white wine with loads of sweet soft well-balanced a firm red plum/berry flavours. $14.99palate and just the right toasty aged characters palate that mirrors the palate. $15amount of oak. $18.99 adding plenty of nose. “Chill it,” said one character. $13.95 judge. $18.90Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Semillon 2010 OTHER RED WINES best buysVinous nose with good depth of fruit flavoursblended with barrel ferment characters on a dry De Beaurepaire Captain Starlight Series NSW Rosé 2010 20less thanpalate. Great texture. $18 Cherry cake and raspberry pip characters on the nose and a big sweet palate with herbal elements. $19 $Quarisa Johnny Q. South Australia Chardonnay 2010Lovely restrained style with fresh delicate fragrant Skuttlebutt Margaret River Shiraz Merlot Rosé 2010nose and nicely focused pretty fruit palate with crisp Big flavoursome style - fresh bright long andacidity and some subtle nutty oak characters sitting balanced with some interesting textural notes. $19underneath. $11.99 Running With Bulls Wrattonbully Tempranillo 2009Sandalford Element Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 Good style with a warm leather/savoury nose andTropical aromas with a slight funky edge and a firm vibrant youthful bramble-like palate with dryingclean palate with herbal notes. $13.95 tannins and good background of acidity. $19.95 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 89

TOP 40Chain of Ponds Scarpantoni Luna Rosa Central Burnbrae Mudgee Cumulus WinesNovello Adelaide Ceres McLaren Vale Ranges Rosado 2010 Sangiovese 2009 Rolling CentralHills Rosé 2010 Rosé 2010 Lovely nose smelling Subdued red fruit Ranges CabernetPleasant, broad stone- Red cherry and like crushed raspberries bouquet and light Merlot 2008fruit aromas with cranberry aromas with leading to a supple palate with simple fruit Good style with spicy/pretty, light, crisp acid slightly pungent herbal textured savoury/herbal characters. $18 earthy bouquet showingflavours. $16 complexity and a lively palate. Very European a hint of licorice and flavoursome palate with style. $14.99 some berry fruits. Big nice drying finish. $13.99 solid cranberry-like palate that has balance weight and length. Drinking well now. $17.99TOP 40 Prince Hill Mudgee Barbera 2009 Cockatoo Ridge Cabernet Merlot 2009 Very nice well-made wine - soft and full of flavour Soft well-made commercial style with pleasant berry/ with a leafy/herbal bouquet and long savoury mocha characters throughout. $11.99 medium-bodied palate brimming over with sweet fruit and some fine tannins. $19 Brokenwood Cricket Pitch South Eastern Australia Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Shiraz 2009 Taylors Promised Land South Australia Merlot 2010 Big simple wine with broad fruit aromas and soft fleshy fruit flavours. $19 Nice integration of raspberry mulberry and fruit Dowie Doole Second Nature McLaren Vale Cabernet cake characters on this youthful wine. 3-5 $13 Shiraz Merlot 2009 Blackberry jam nose with slight bitumen-like notes Windowrie Estate The Mill Hilltops Cabernet and elegant palate with solid sweet fruit flavours. Merlot 2010 3-5 $18 Nice blend with good purple hues and a pleasant oak/mint/berry bouquet. Palate surprisingly soft with good fruit impact and powerful tannins that build to the finish. 3-5 $16.9990 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Gardners Ground Houghton Margaret Barking Owl Western Gardners Ground Moppity VineyardsOrganic Canowindra River Cabernet Australia Shiraz (NAP) Canowindra Lock & Key HilltopsMerlot 2008 Sauvignon 2009 Viognier 2009 Shiraz 2010 Shiraz 2009Loads of fruit all the way Inky tarry/prune-like Beautiful wine - great Raw berry aromas and Oaky nose but withfrom beginning to end bouquet with an earthy colour and lovely rich an assertive tannic subtle raspberry fruitwith oak evident but perfumed palate. $17.99 ripe sweet blackberry palate with greener fruit underneath and alsowell-integrated creating aromas with a spicy and high alcohol. Needs raspberry flavours with aa pleasing effect. Good edge. Palate offers a big time. 5+ $19.99 spicy lift. Tight, firm andnow - will get even mouthful of black jube youthful palate. $14.99better. 5+ $19.99 flavours and excellent tannin structure. $17.95Beelgara Estate Range South Eastern Australia Beach Head By Credoro Margaret River Shiraz 2009 best buys Big dark and very intense wine with some lovely oldCabernet Sauvignon 2009 vine fruit obvious exhibiting tones of blackberry and 20less than spice. Lovely lightly spicy palate with good weight ofLighter style with nice spicy cedar oak over some varietal fruit. $17 $vibrant stone-fruit characters. 5+ $8.95 Baldivis Estate Frankland River Shiraz 2009 Tight bright and very attractive wine with lovelyBarwick Estates Margaret River Cabernet prominence of peppery/spicy elements lifting off theSauvignon 2009 simple confectionery fruit. Well made. $15Elegant silky cabernet with aromas and flavoursbuilding with some air. There’s plum and black Lengs & Cooter The Victor McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008cherry fruit integrated well with the oak. $19.99 Lovely sweet spicy fruit nose with a tannic spicy red palate. $19Xabregas Mount Barker Shiraz 2009Heady wine; deep dense colour and very ripe almostraisined aromas with a dash of ground pepper. Inkyconcentration of flavours. $17.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 91

No.29 VINEYARD SElEcTPINOT NOIR 20l0Exclusively the only Yarra Valley wineto be represented at Top Wine China 20 l lTO BE RELEASED AUGUST 20 l lOutstanding WinesExceptional VintagesSticks No.29 Vineyard Select recent awards:2008 No.29 Vineyard Select ShirazTrophy Best Red Table WineSydney International Wine Competition94 points Halliday2008 No.29 Vineyard Select Cabernet SauvignonGold, 2010 Victorian Wines Show2006 No.29 Vineyard Select Pinot NoirTrophy Best Pinot Noir,2008 Royal Melbourne Wine Show92 points Halliday2007 No.29 Vineyard Select Cabernet ShirazGold, 2010 London International Wine Show93 points Halliday

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means 5 international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, weWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more will have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 93

what’s it worth?WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2005 $300 1999 $110 MOUNT MARY 2001 $370 THREE RIVERS/ WINES 2006 $300 2000 $110 Quintet 2002 $450 Chris Ringland 2001 $100 2003 $400 Wines Shiraz BASS PHILLIP 2002 $140 1990 $260 2004 $480 1990 $850Premium Pinot Noir CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 1991 $120 2005 $550 1991 $700 Shiraz Viognier 2005 $140 1992 $110 1992 $650 1990 $80 1990 $65 2006 $120 Armagh Shiraz 1993 $130 1993 $750 1991 $100 1993 $65 2007 Not Released 1990 $220 1994 $120 1994 $650 1992 $120 1994 $85 2008 $110 1991 $180 1995 $100 1995 $500 1993 $100 1995 $65 1992 $120 1996 $160 1996 $900 1994 $120 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 1997 $110 Bin 707 1997 Not Released 1995 $95 1997 $130 1990 $110 1994 $130 1998 $180 1980 $150 1998 $900 1996 $115 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 1999 $120 1981 Not Released 1999 $600 1997 $180 1999 $55 1992 $80 1996 $160 2000 $160 1982 $150 2000 $450 1998 $110 2000 $90 1993 $75 1997 $150 2001 $120 1983 $150 2001 $850 1999 $140 2001 $130 1994 $90 1998 $220 2002 $130 1984 $150 2002 $800 2000 $110 2002 $120 1995 $85 1999 $130 2003 $130 1985 $150 2003 $500 2001 $100 2003 $110 1996 $100 2000 $120 2004 $140 1986 $200 2002 $145 2004 $120 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2005 $140 1987 $140 Shiraz 2003 $110 2005 $120 1998 $130 2002 $200 2006 $120 1988 $160 1990 $145 2004 $120 2006 $100 1999 $85 2004 $145 1989 $150 1991 $130 2005 $80 2007 $150 2000 $70 2005 $120 Bin 95 Grange 1990 $220 1992 $80 2007 $90 2008 $120 2001 $110 2006 $120 1951 $43,000 1991 $160 1993 $90 2008 $95 2002 $95 1952 $17,000 1992 $160 1994 $160 Cabernet Merlot 2003 $65 Chardonnay 1953 $13,000 1993 $160 1995 $95 BINDI 1990 $95 2004 $75 Art Series 1954 $10,000 1994 $180 1996 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1991 $100 2005 $70 1955 $3,600 1995 Not Released 1997 $90 1997 $80 1992 $80 GREENOCK CREEK 1990 $60 1956 $12,000 1996 $200 1998 $160 1998 $95 1993 $85 1991 $70 1957 $11,000 1997 $160 1999 $100 1999 1994 $90 Roennfeldt Rd 1992 $75 1958 $4,800 1998 $220 2000 $90 2000 $150 1995 $95 Shiraz 1993 $65 1959 $2,000 1999 $170 2001 $95 2001 $120 1996 $100 1994 $85 1960 $1,400 2000 Not Released 2002 $150 2002 $110 1997 $90 1995 $370 1995 $120 1961 $1,200 2001 $150 2003 $80 2003 $85 1998 $95 1996 $300 1996 $65 1962 $1,100 2002 $180 2004 $150 2004 $140 1999 $95 1997 $190 1997 $100 1963 $1,000 2003 Not Released 2005 $130 2005 $120 2000 $85 1998 $350 1998 $70 1964 $1,000 2004 $190 2006 $130 2006 $110 2001 $80 1999 $180 1999 $85 1965 $500 2005 $170 2007 $140 2007 $110 2002 Not Released 2000 $220 2000 $75 1966 $600 2006 $160 2008 $110 2003 $75 2001 $240 2001 $90 1967 $700 2007 $160 2004 $70 2002 $400 2002 $85 1968 $550 BROKENWOOD 2003 $200 2003 $100 1969 $550 Bin 60A Graveyard Shiraz Elderton 2004 $350 2004 $95 1970 $400 1962 $3,500 1990 $90 Command Shiraz 2005 $75 1971 $700 2004 $460 1991 $100 1990 $120 2006 $70 1972 $350 1992 Not Released 1991 Not Released Hill of Grace 2007 $65 1973 $360 Basket Press Para Liqueur 1993 $75 1992 $75 1980 $250 1974 $400 Shiraz 1878 $1,600 1994 $80 1993 $65 1981 $230 MOSS WOOD 1975 $400 1879 $1,200 1995 $70 1994 $95 1982 $240 Cab Sauv 1976 $600 1990 $150 1880 $800 1996 $95 1995 $75 1983 $240 1977 $400 1991 $140 1881 $800 1997 $75 1996 $95 1984 $210 1990 $130 1978 $400 1992 $95 1887 $800 1998 $110 1997 $80 1985 $250 1991 $160 1979 $380 1993 $75 1893 $1,000 1999 $90 1998 $90 1986 $350 1992 $120 1980 $360 1994 $90 1899 $1,000 2000 $95 1999 $60 1987 $210 1993 $100 1981 $390 1995 $75 1901 $650 2001 $80 2000 $70 1988 $310 1994 $130 1982 $370 1996 $140 1908 $550 2002 $75 2001 $80 1989 $240 1995 $170 1983 $400 1997 $95 1910 $500 2003 $80 2002 $90 1990 $460 1996 $150 1984 $360 1998 $190 1922 $450 2004 $80 2003 $70 1991 $400 1997 $100 1985 $400 1999 $95 1925 $700 2005 $85 2004 $80 1992 $350 1998 $150 1986 $550 2000 $80 1927 $360 2006 $100 2005 $65 1993 $300 1999 $140 1987 $340 2001 $85 1930 $240 2007 $90 2006 $55 1994 $340 2000 $120 1988 $350 2002 $140 1933 $200 1995 $340 2001 $120 1989 $360 2003 $100 1939 $150CLARENDON HILLS 1996 $500 2002 $90 1990 $580 2004 $95 1944 $90 Astralis Shiraz GIACONDA 1997 $320 2003 $95 1991 $480 2005 $95 1947 $80 Chardonnay 1998 $520 2004 $85 1992 $350 2006 $95 1951 $300 1994 $230 1990 $100 1999 $380 2005 $80 1993 $350 2007 $100 1995 $250 1991 $75 2001 $360 2006 $65 1994 $350 1996 $300 1992 $85 2002 $440 2006 $75 1995 $350 1997 $250 1993 $90 2004 $520 1996 $480 1998 $320 1994 $100 2005 $350 1997 $340 1999 $260 1995 $85 1998 $580 2000 $270 1996 $130 1999 $420 2001 $290 1997 $90 2000 $420 2002 $330 1998 $125 2003 $210 2004 $35094 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

IMPORTED Chateau 2003 $600 SOmmelierS WINES Mouton Latour 2004 $400 and 1990 $1,250 2005 $950Moet et Chandon 1991 $600 2006 $450 WinemakerS Cuvee Dom 1992 $280 lOVe Perignon 1993 $360 1994 $360 Wine Shield.1973 $360 1995 $6501975 $400 1996 $1,100 E. Guigal La Turque1976 $330 1997 Hermitage1978 $250 1998 $360 1990 $8001980 $220 1999 $5201982 $350 2000 $600 1991 $4801983 $180 2001 1992 $2701985 $300 2002 $1,800 1993 $2401988 $260 2003 $7001990 $450 2004 $750 1994 $3001992 $240 2005 1995 $5001993 $220 2006 $1,500 1996 $2601995 $220 2007 $6001996 $290 $1,350 1997 $3201998 $260 1998 $7001999 $200 Not Released 1999 $5602000 $210 $750 2000 $420 Louis Roederer Chateau Petrus 2001 $520 Cristal 1990 $4,800 2002 $450 1991 $1,300 2003 $8501990 $600 1992 $1,000 2004 $3501993 $220 1993 $1,800 2005 $8001994 $3401995 $300 1994 $1,900 Gaja Barbaresco1996 $440 1995 $1,400 1990 $3301997 $240 1996 $1,000 1991 $2101999 $340 1997 $3,500 1992 $2602000 $340 1998 $1,250 1993 $2102002 $320 1999 $5,000 1994 $300Chateau Mouton 2000 $2,300 1995 $550 2001 $2,000 1996 $300 Rothschild 2002 $3,000 1997 $2601990 $440 2003 $2,000 1998 $3101991 $280 2004 $3,700 1999 $2201992 $2301993 $350 Domaine 2000 $300 Wine Shield keeps wine fresh by1994 $280 dramatically slowing oxidation for1995 $520 de la Romanee Tenuta up to 5 days after the first glass is1996 $610 Conti La Tache Dell’Ornellaia poured. Taste and aroma is retained.1997 $280 1990 $6,6001998 $360 1991 $1,900 Ornellaia Order from our distributors or direct.1999 $600 1992 $1,250 1991 $320 Visit our website and keep your wine tasting fresh2000 $1,150 1993 $1,800 1992 $1052001 $450 1994 $1,500 1993 $110 – right to the last glass.2002 $480 1995 $2,200 1994 $1302003 $580 1996 $1,800 1995 $1302004 $500 1997 $1,900 1996 $1802005 Not Released 1998 $2,200 1997 $3402006 Not Released 1999 $5,600 1998 $3002007 $600 2000 $1,500 1999 $240 2001 $2,000 2000 $140 2002 $2,800 2001 $290 2003 $2,800 2002 $240 2004 $2,200 2003 $100 2005 $3,600 2004 $150 2006 $1,500 2005 $150 Domaine Armand Vega Sicilia Unico Rousseau Gran Reserva Chambertin 1990 $560 Clos de Beze 1991 $420 1990 $950 1994 $550 1991 $200 1995 $300 1992 $220 2003 $300 1993 $380 1994 $180 www.wineshield.com 1995 $560 1996 $600 Now available in China, Australia, USA, Canada, Europe. 1997 $280 1998 $400 1999 $800 2000 $400 2001 $380 2002 $500 HBT/WPR105 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 95

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts in these wines and the strong prices achieved reflect their increased rarity in theSTERLING WINE LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS marketplace. Remaining bottles of great oldAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (FIRST QUARTER 2011 REPORT) Australian wines are held very tightly andApril 29-May 11 The auction market for the first quarter sold increasingly rarely into the secondary(consignment deadline April 25) of 2011 began well, with healthy stock market.May 27-June 8 flows of Australian and imported blue-chip(consignment deadline May 23) wine and increased buyer participation. At the end of February and into March, Langton’s decision to switch to weekly Grange continued to perform at bullishLANGTON’S WINE auctions from January brought positive levels. Prices in Melbourne’s February saleAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE results almost immediately. For the first were particularly strong with a record priceMay 3-10 (Melbourne) time in the company’s 20-year history, of $2530 achieved for 1962 Grange (with- stock entry cut-off April 21 vendors had double the opportunity each the previous highest $1614). In general,May 10-17 (Sydney) month to sell their wine - while buyers supply of Grange in the secondary market- stock entry cut-off April 28 were provided with greater choice with a is lower than average and this is helpingMay 17-24 (Melbourne) different catalogue each week from which strengthen prices.- stock entry cut-off May 5 to browse. This contributed to a definiteMay 24-31 (Sydney) sense of increased momentum and helped Prices for other Australian blue-chip- stock entry cut-off May 12 get sales for 2011 off to a good start. wines from great vintages were alsoMay 31-June 7 (Melbourne) strong, indicating a return to market form.- stock entry cut-off May 19 Sales of Penfolds Grange strengthened Sydney’s February sale saw rare items suchJune 7-14 (Sydney) over the quarter, owing to lower volumes as 1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 and 1957- stock entry cut-off May 26 and greater demand - particularly for rare Wynns Cabernet reach near-record prices.June 14-21 (Penfolds 7 Sale) vintages and large-format bottles. The An extraordinary result of $4025 was also- stock entry cut-off June 2 highlight of the first Sydney January sale achieved for 1956 Penfolds Bin S56 MagillJune 21-28 (Sydney) was a wide selection of 1950s Grange, Burgundy Shiraz. Hill of Grace continued to- stock entry cut-off June 9 an unusual offering which attracted an perform well, with strong prices recordedJune 28-July 5 (Melbourne) unprecedented depth of bidding, with for outstanding vintages, including a 1996- stock entry cut-off June 16 several close-to-record prices achieved. which sold for $621. Other highlights included the ultra-rareODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS 1951 Bin 1 Grange Hermitage, which Growth in the imported sector of theMay 17 (closes April 15) sold for $46,000, and bottles of 1952 secondary market continues to be steady.June 21 (closes May 27) Bin 4 and 1953 Bin 2 Grange Hermitage, Results for superior Burgundy producers, which achieved $20,700 and $16,108 including Domaine de la Romanee ContiGRAYSONLINE respectively. The high level of interest and Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue,Daily auctions featuring a range of as well as top Rhone producers such asred and white wines and regional and Chave and Rayas, continue to strengthen.country-specific sales. Highlights from Melbourne’s sales included $1588 for a 2000 Domaine de la RomaneeCRACKA WINES Conti La Tache and $846 for a 1978 J.L.Live auctions every day at 1pm on Chave Hermitage.weekdays and 8pm on weekends. Sydney’s sales also provided someLIQUID ASSET FINE WINE excellent highlights, with many rare high-AUCTIONS value wines offered. Prices achievedFortnightly online auctions, from for rare imports such as Domaine de laThursday 8am to Tuesday 8pm. Romanee Conti, Petrus and several First Growth Bordeaux were above expectations.(All dates are subject to change, A bottle of 1999 Domaine de la Romaneewithout notice) Conti, Romanee Conti was particularly sought after, fetching $12,652. Participation in this auction was especially strong, no doubt owing to the rare wines on offer. As the first quarter wrapped up, clearance rates continued to be problematic. Natural fluctuations are to be expected owing to imbalances between supply and demand. However, continuously disappointing clearance rates are primarily driven by high vendor reserves. The challenge for managing vendor expectations in line with96 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

wine investment & collectingmarket reality remains as acute as ever. On Mouton Rothschild remains popular, with Interest in Italian wine remains highthe positive side, prices for blue-chip wines the 2003 fetching $585 on two occasions and Liquid Assets was fortunate to comefrom good to great vintages remain firm. and the ’02 reaching $460. Lafite is still the across some very old Barolos whichThe increased frequency of auction sales most popular but is becoming increasingly created a great deal of interest, despitewith less waiting time for vendors and difficult to find. not being in perfect condition. A bottlemore opportunities for buyers is proving of 1958 Marchesi Barolo made $270highly successful for all parties and has Other strong performers from Bordeaux while the 1961 and ’64 Barolo Riservainjected welcome dynamism into the included the 2003 Chateau Cos d’Estournel, Castellana both reached $180.secondary market. which achieved $350, with the 1995 fetching $325; $500 and $235 paid respectively for Australian wine sales were steady, with For more information, visit www.langtons. the 2003 and 2002 Carruades de Lafite; Penfolds Grange, as ever, leading the way.com.au. $400 for a 1998 Les Forts de Latour and There always seem to be a vendor ready to $375 for a 1996 Palmer. There was also sell this wine. During this period we saw $410LIQUID ASSET FINE WINE AUCTIONS good interest from an astute collector paid for some 1999 Grange and $400 for a rare(FIRST QUARTER REPORT) in some lesser chateaux, with the 2000 1965 Grange - which may well have been aSince the Christchurch earthquake of Chateau Clinet leading the way at $285. bargain. Magnums of 2001 d’Arenberg DeadFebruary 22, the whole of New Zealand - let Arm Shiraz ($265) and bottles of 2001 Torbreckalone the fine and rare wine market - has Burgundies are another matter, and have RunRig Shiraz ($280) and 2001 Rusden Blackexperienced a downturn which is predicted not been selling well. Obviously the region Guts Shiraz ($180) were also moved.to last well into 2012. Hopefully, the Rugby still remains popular but there are fewWorld Cup in September will give the wines which attract serious interest and New Zealand wines still maintain goodcountry’s spirits a much-needed boost. In only a small number of these were put clearance rates but as yet, there are fewthe meantime, everyone - including the forward in the quarter. Mid-price burgundy which reach the higher price levels attainedteam at Liquid Asset Fine Wine Auctions - is plentiful, so good prices are hard to elsewhere. The 2002 and 2007 Stonyridgeis focused on doing what they can for the achieve. The situation may ease with the Larose at $95 and 2002 Dry River Pinot Noirpeople of New Zealand’s second city. withdrawal of the Ballande range from the at $100 were the stand-out performers. New Zealand market. Auction results since the start of the year Finally, a few oddities on the scenehave been steady without being spectacular Rhone, on the other hand, continues its included individual bottles of 1938 Chateauand we hope these will hold up in the dramatic rise in popularity, as noted in Liquid Mouton Baronne-Philippe ($235), 1952 Riojacoming months. Certainly New Zealand is a Asset Fine Wine Auctions’ last report. The Reserva from Bodegas Bilbainas ($125) andbuyers’ market at present. Despite this, top- star of the show was again the Chateauneuf- a 1964 tokaji from Szamorodni ($62).end French wines generally sold well, with du-Pape Domaine de la Janasse Vieillesthe leading clarets, not surprisingly, faring Vignes. This time, a 2007 magnum made just For more information, visit www.liquidasset.best. Some 1998 Chateau Latour went for over $535 but, in truth, all Chateauneuf-du- co.nz and to register for notifications go to$820, while a bottle of 2001 made $560. Pape sells well and there is growing interest www.liquidasset.co.nz/register. in Crozes Hermitage. *All prices are in NZ$ and include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 97

wine investment & collectingCRACKA WINES a reserve under $30, and Cracka Wines As part of continuing its website(JANUARY-FEBRUARY REPORT) expects organic growth as it reaches a development, Cracka Wines has moved toAfter a strong debut in the latter half of wider audience. implement a range of initiatives to make2010, Cracka Wines built on its reputation participation in its wine auctions simplerfor value and wine quality in the first two Sales of more mainstream wines also and more convenient. This includes themonths of 2011, with sales results in line remained very strong, with Marlborough introduction of second auctions at 8pm,with expectations. Despite the expected sauvignon blancs generating particular for those clients who can’t spare the timesummer holiday lull, which saw some interest. Oyster Bay was by far the most during the usual 1pm slot. There’s also adrop in volume in relation to sales in the popular seller, with a full pallet selling in fully automated auction reminder system solead-up to Christmas, vendor clearance a single auction, while others such as customers can mark products and brandsrates were healthy, with aggregate bottle Drift and Daisy Rock also proved popular. of interest.price close to average. Despite the warmer weather in January and February, sales of typical summer styles For more information, visit www. Buying habits noted in Cracka Wines’ such as rosé and pinot grigio remained crackawines.com.au or email help@report in the March/April issue continued, quite soft - although dry red sales saw no crackawines.com.au.with strong interest in premium wines lack of interest.sustained and even increasing. The *All quoted prices are per bottle, with noSonglines Bylines Shiraz, made with Quality riesling and pinot noir were again buyer’s premium applicable.assistance from John Duval, has remained snapped up quickly by a keen audience,keenly sought after with a reserve of $15 illustrating the strength of these classic STERLING WINEand some buyers paying over $25 for what varieties among Cracka Wines buyers. AUCTIONS & EXCHANGEwas originally sold with a recommended Some aged riesling parcels from quality (MARCH REPORT)retail value of $65. A small parcel of 2004 producers were also strong sellers and The wine auction world continues to tossChapoutier St Joseph also generated continue to perform well. There was up gems and delights for those with an eyestrong interest, with spirited bidding seeing significant interest in classic varieties of for a collectable and a back vintage bargain.pricing in line with vendor expectations. shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay Penfolds Bin 707 is the brightest light on theOther well-regarded producers such as and sparkling wines, although some auction scene and shows no sign of runningMargaret River’s Wise Wine Vineyards lesser-known varieties such as grenache out of steam - in fact it burns brighter everyand Taltarni also built in interest, with a and sangiovese did prove more difficult month. Exactly why this wine has reachednumber of bidders competing for limited to shift. such heights is a question Sterling’s Lyntonvolumes of reserve wines. Another wine Barber has pondered.very well received by Cracka clients has While the majority of sales came throughbeen the Star Lane Beechworth Shiraz straight case lots, there has certainly also “Is it great marketing? Is it the indelibleand Merlot. Initially with a retail price of been a move towards mixed cases, with fingerprint of master John Duval who$80, this has impressed many clients with many clients enjoying the flexibility in captained the Penfolds developments drinking this provides. Most interest was that have matured of recent years (RWT, for those cases priced below $10 a bottle. Yattarna, Bin 407 and Bin 138) - or isAustralia’s newest and most exciting wine auction house with leading brands at up to 80% off RRP Daily wine auctions “The only way to buy wine online” Premium and clearance wines www.crackawines.com.au98 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011

wine investment & collectingit just a lucky bullseye?” asks Lynton. world leaders in the premium semillon few years, experience and vine age will“We should all have an opinion of and an market - but don’t stop there. Try the show the world just how good Chineseunderstanding of this remarkable wine. dozen or so old-vine semillon producers premium wine can be.”I suggest you bite the bullet, carry the in the Hunter who are making wines up tobig price tag and take a bottle of recent the same heady standards. Try Drayton’s Lynton urges Australian producersvintage (1994 to current) to your group Susanne or some of the Tulloch semillons. to forget about trying to tap into thefor review, research and contemplation.” Of course, 10 years in the cellar from Chinese bulk wine market. “We will drinking is best!” never be competitive on price and local One aspect of the wine auction world producers will soon have the marketwhich continues to delight Lynton and One area of concern for Lynton is the sewn up with product that suits localmany others is its amazing ability to sliding market for Australian sparkling tastes. There is potential at the top end,wind back time and give buyers a second shiraz. “This story is real and a sad state but not an easy or quick path. This is achance to pick up wines missed on of affairs,” he says. “Of course there are market which needs personal contactrelease. “I suggest combing the auction still players in this market. Rockford Black 24/7. If you want your premium winecatalogues looking for back vintage Shiraz and Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz brand to succeed in China, learn theMargaret River chardonnay and cabernet are still out there. It’s expensive wine to language and go and live there!”from established producers,” says make and the trend looks well set. If youLynton. “Possibly the greatest bargain are a lover - and there’s nothing better Sterling Wine Auctions has been offeringsold by Sterling was cases of the 2001 with roasted lamb, goose or turkey - stock online bidding over the internet forWoodlands Margaret Cabernet. Taken up with an idea that supply will start to over a decade and delivering a fast andhome at well under $30 a bottle, this top taper off.” streamlined service has always been thehouse’s mid-range cabernet from a stellar objective. The company’s website hasvintage was just too good to be true.” China’s wine market continues to begun a series of upgrades which will expand. The market for premium wine deliver even faster and more effective Lynton also suggests broadening the imports is booming, but is heavily focused auction bidding. “Over the past yearssearch when it comes to wines from his on brands. Chateau Lafite is in huge we’ve listened to user feedback andown ‘backyard’ of Western Australia - and demand and world auction prices have focused on integrating features which arealso the Hunter Valley. “Despite all the jumped trying to meet ever-growing compatible with the ever-changing arrayexperts ‘knowing’ that ‘Margs’ can’t make needs. “Many foreigners are amazed to of popular web browsers and networkgood shiraz, the Cape Mentelle wines learn that China is a huge wine producer platforms,” says Lynton. Contributionsare sweeping the field,” he says. “The with vast areas under vine,” says Lynton. to the development of the website are2007 Cape Mentelle, at a release retail of “Domestic consumption will soon be all welcome. Feedback or suggestions can be$30-40 a bottle, was one of the extreme local, Chinese-produced product in the emailed to [email protected] bargains of 2010. We see Hunter bottom price/volume markets. Theresemillons dominated by McWilliam’s are premium wine producers in China Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange conductsand Tyrrell’s. These august houses are aiming to produce Bordeaux styles. In a monthly live online auctions. For more information, visit www.sterlingwine.com.au. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 99

wine investment & collectingGRAYSONLINE continue to perform strongly, with many ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS(JANUARY/FEBRUARY REPORT) consumers finding the slightly less iconic (FEBRUARY REPORT)With New Year celebrations put to rest, labels more appealing. The strong pricing of With the difficult weather experienceddemand on the online auction wine Henschke Hill of Grace and Penfolds Grange across Australia over the holiday seasonmarket has proven to be slightly softer continues to drive investment purchase. finally abating, auction buyers aroundfor 2011. That said, GraysOnline is still Katnook Limited Release, Hardy Eileen Hardy the nation came out of their Christmasmoving more than 1500 lots. There’s and Leconfield continue to be purchased as torpor in the New Year to add somealways a bargain to be had, with 500-odd ready-to-drink wines. Consumers are also life and vitality to the new auctionlots going for under $50 each. These reaping the benefits of an aged, exceptionally season. Buyers returned looking forready-to-drink wines include Wynns well cellared and credentialled bottle. the occasional super-premium, avoidingCabernet and Penfolds Bin ranges from the cheap and cheerful but definitelybeautiful vintages, Grant Burge, Wolf There has been a great selection of ports on the hunt for mid-priced classics.Blass, Leasingham and d’Arenberg. and interesting collectible spirits selling Also, after many months of vendors at unbelievable prices. A 1951 Hardy’s shying away from the auction market, Penfolds Grange continues to be a Reserve Bin M127 sold for a whopping Oddbins witnessed a large influx offavourite. The sale of 118 lots across $361.12 and Chivas Regal Royal Salute premium and semi-premium reds anda range of vintages from 1962 to 2002 has been moving consistently and also whites into the marketplace.produced consistent returns, bringing achieving a great result. Just as interestingin an average of $422.30. With an was a rare pistol-shaped bottle of Hijos de Oddbins’ February auction was a largeabundance of Penfolds RWT, St Henri, Villa Reposado Tequila, which recently sold event with over 3100 lots on offer. MajorBin 707 and Bin 389, these popular for more than $170. highlights included the sale of the verydrops contributed heavily to the powerful famous 1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 Hunterpresence Penfolds has had online for Vintage champagne continues to drive River Burgundy for a hammer price ofmost of the year so far. Henschke, sales, with single bottles of Dom Perignon $910, a magnum of 2001 Penfolds Bin 95Grosset and Brokenwood Graveyard managing to achieve in excess of $250. Grange in its original timber case fetchingalso produced great results despite the Veuve Clicquot La Grand Dame from the $900, a 1976 Chateau d’Yquem for $410,general slowdown in early 2011. late 1990s is selling in droves and also and $500 for an intriguing Johnnie Walker achieving astonishing results. In many Quest Cask Conditioned Blended Scotch Old favourite Wynns made a comeback cases, the purchaser is paying a premium Whisky (boxed).in consumer choice, with John Riddoch over current retail pricing.and Michael achieving terrific results in As mentioned, buyers were mainlyboth magnums and single bottles. Other For more information, visit www. on the lookout for mid-priced premiumold favourites such as Mt Pleasant Maurice graysonline.com or contact Kieran Gallagher, reds from good years and, importantly,O’Shea, Jacobs Creek St Hugo, Orlando national wine manager, on (02) 9741 9600 in good to perfect condition. StrongLawson’s, Lindemans St George and Pyrus or [email protected]. performers included wines like 1998 * All prices listed include buyer’s premium. Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... What we do Best! It’s100 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011