Winestate Magazine May June 2010

regional tastingRIESLING Galafrey Dryland Vasse Felix Margaret River Reserve Mt Barker Semillon 2009 HHHH10 TASTED Riesling 2009 HHH Lean and lemony, with grassy9 AWARDED Chalky lime and lemon nose notes on the nose and varietal and good length of zesty, fruit on a lightly structuredThe judges found this a very lime juice-like flavours. palate seamlessly integratedstrong class. “At their best Potential. 5+ $18 with lovely acidity. $25these show lime flavour and softacid,” noted one judge. “And Trevelen Farm Galafrey Reserve Mtthey show minerality but are not Great Southern Riesling Barker Semillon 2009 HHHtoo hard”. The better wines will 2009 HHH Aromas of honeysucklereward with ageing but are also Spicy floral nose and crisp, on the nose and a dense,attractive as young drinkers. fresh flavours on a slightly flavoursome palate showing broad palate with some oak complexity. $22 Howard Park Great residual sweetness. $23 Southern Riesling Moss Brothers Margaret 2009 HHHHH Xabregas Show Reserve River Semillon 2009 HHH Beautiful example of style Great Southern Riesling Pungent bouquet with a lemon showing bright, spicy florals 2009 HHH lift. Nice fruit and crisp acid on on the nose and filling the Subdued aromas of pears and a lovely fresh palate. $27 mouth with lots of zippy lime apples, which are echoed on juice flavours that have great the fresh, crisp palate. $24.99 SEMILLON depth and persistence. Lovely SAUVIGNON minerality. $25 Abbey Creek Porongorup BLANC Riesling 2009 HHH Apples and pears on the nose, 25 TASTED with light floral notes. Clean 18 AWARDED and crisp in the mouth. $25 As the judges expected, this Harewood Estate SEMILLON was a strong class, with semillon Great Southern Riesling adding texture and structure to 2009 HHH1/2 6 TASTED sauvignon blanc. One judge was Clean, lean and very nice. 4 AWARDED concerned about a few that had Vibrant floral/citrus aromas and residual sugar rather than fruit soft fruit flavours with residual sweetness. Lovely elegance sugar giving balance and overall. All have ageing potential. structure. $19.50 Harewood EstatePoacher’s Ridge Louis’ The Growers’ Dedication Somerset Hill Great Southern SemillonBlock Great Southern Series Frankland River Great Southern Semillon Sauvignon BlancRiesling 2008 HHHHH Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHHHGreat fruit! Slightly estery, Nice sherbet characters to the Great nose - all pea pod, cut Greener, cooler style withherbaceous aromas. Palate floral/pear-like nose. Crisp in grass and herbs. Excellent elegant varietal fruit thatlong, clean, crisp and vibrant, the mouth, with good varietal varietal fruit weight and shows a lovely floral lift. Somewith lime-like flavours that, fruit flavours and firm acid intensity on the palate, with a grassiness obvious on the noseaccording to one judge, are support. $19.95 crisp, racy acid spine. Fresh, and a palate that’s rich with“absolutely spot on”. $18.99 Plantagnet Great Southern vibrant and good drinking. $21 delicious fruit flavours. $25 Riesling 2008 HHH1/2 Lifted, minerally aromas and a lean, clean palate with subtle varietal fruit flavours and long, crisp acid freshness. $22Bob Cartright Charlotte Newton JUDGESWine consultant. Winemaker for Devil’sFormerly chief Lair winery for the past Virginia Willcockwinemaker Leeuwin two years. Previously at Chief winemaker forEstate Wines for 28 Coldstream Hills (Yarra Vasse Felix Wines.vintages. Judging Valley) with vintages in Formerly with Hayshedpanelist for South Chablis, Languedoc and Hill, Chessnut Grove andAfrican Airlines. Canterbury (NZ). Associate Alexandra Bridge Wines. judge at the Margaret Judge at the Mt Barker River wine show. and assoociate judge at the Perth wine shows. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 101

BEST OF THE WESTChurchview Estate Western Range Wines Fermoy Estate Yallingup CHARDONNAYSilverleaf Margaret River Lot 88 Western Australia Vineyards Margaret River 2009Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon Blanc2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH 30 TASTEDGrassy/lemony nose with very Bright, fresh wine with great Slightly extracted style with 8 AWARDEDgood herbal characters threaded extract and varietal clarity, some phenolics, but balancedthrough that are echoed on the and with a palate showing by fruit sweetness and crisp The judges agreed it was apalate. Has good depth and great texture and flavour acidity. $15 difficult time to judge 2009balance and texture. $12.50 intensity. $14.95 Blackboy Ridge Geographe chardonnays. The unwooded wine by brad Margaret Semillon Sauvignon Blanc wines were going through aDeep Woods Ivory Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon 2009 HHH dull stage and the woodedRiver Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 Green bean nose with grassy ones had not yet settled down.Blanc 2009 HHHH Soft herbal/grassy characters semillon notes and a crisp, “The best wines out of WALovely varietal aromas; all grassy on the nose, with an estery clean, seamless palate. Good are those with rich fruit andand herbaceous with a lemon citrus lift. Very fresh in the drinking. $16 wood,” noted one judge.zest lift. Fresh and vibrant in the mouth - has weight yet a Vasse Felix Margaretmouth, with an elegant flavour certain lightness. $17.95 River Classic Dry White Ironwood Estateprofile. 3-5 $14.95 Stella Bella Margaret 2009 HHH Reserve Porongorup River Semillon Sauvignon Nice freshness to the musky Chardonnay 2009 HHHHGalafrey SSB Mt Barker Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 nose. Flavoursome palate - lean Lovely savoury aromasSemillon Sauvignon Blanc Big wine with a nose that and long and sharp. $20 - a little developed and showing2009 HHHH shows some musky/smoky-like Laurence of Margaret great complexity. PalateGrassy/herbaceous nose; characters. Palate has great River Semillon Sauvignon rich with flavour from thesome barrel ferment and leesy fruit extract and texture. $22 Blanc 2009 HHH integration of spicy lemon/limenotes. Interesting flavours with Capel Vale Regional Quite a grassy nose and full- fruit and oak. $20gingerbread-like notes. Has Series Pemberton flavoured fruit palate. Sometexture, weight and length. $18 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc phenolics with balancing Goose Chase Western 2009 HHH1/2 acidity. $26 Australia ChardonnayPreveli Margaret River Clean, crisp wine with nice Hay Shed Hill Block 1 2009 HHH1/2Semillon Sauvignon Blanc varietal definition. Some lemon Margaret River Semillon Both pungent and floral aromas2009 HHHH curd characters on the nose and Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH lift off the nose. Slightly drying,Sweaty/grassy aromas showing an elegance in the mouth. $23.95 Sweaty/grassy nose acidic citrus palate but it hashints of tropical fruits. Palate long developing complexity. Ripe, some richness too. $15and lean, with mouth-puckering Thompson Estate Margaret creamy peach/melon palateacidity. Good structure and River Semillon Sauvignon with lots of acid. $28 Fraser Gallop Estatebalance. 3-5 $18.95 Blanc 2008 HHH1/2 Margaret River This nose is a complexity of Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2Fraser Gallop Estate pea pod, lemon and cut grass Interesting funky nose withMargaret River Semillon aromas. Fruit-driven palate - high nice cashew notes. Quite anSauvignon Blanc in acid, ensuring a long life. $25 oaky palate, with a pleasant2009 HHHH Fuddling Cup Margaret citrus backbone and nuttyGood clean, fresh and crisp style River Semillon Sauvignon finish. $30showing great structure, balance, Blanc 2009 HHHtexture and richness, with Subdued herbaceous aromas. Wignalls Premium Albanyexcellent intensity of varietal fruit Warmish palate - great texture Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2flavours. 3-5 $20 with soft fruit flavours. $16 Smells like vanilla custard Sandalford Margaret River and buttered toast! Tight but Semillon Sauvignon flavoursome palate with good Blanc 2009 HHH length of fine acidity. $35 Green beans and herbs on the nose. Nice fruit sweetness in the Mark Warren mouth. Good acid level. $18.99 Winemaker for Happs Winery. Formally winemaker at Lamonts, Swan Valley winery. Senior judge Perth, Hobart, Mt Barker & Swan Valley Wine Shows.102 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingDevil’s Lair Fifth Leg CHARDONNAY Flametree Margaret River Forester EstateWestern Australia 2008 Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Margaret RiverChardonnay 2009 HHH Some fabulously complex aged Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2Very pretty fragrant/floral 36 TASTED characters on the bright, funky Incredibly fresh and youthful,bouquet. Flavours are tight and 23 AWARDED nose. Palate has a great acid with subdued aromas and abright and lingering. $19.99 Strong class overall, with well- backbone, good fruit and plenty great core of lovely fruit flavours handled oak to match the fruit of oaky richness. $25 on a powerful palate. $28Beach Head Margaret intensity. “There were some Vasse Felix Margaret River Warner Glen EstateRiver Unwooded lovely fruit performers in the Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Margaret RiverChardonnay 2009 HHH ‘08s,” said one judge. “The good Wonderful aromas - smells like Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2Touch green on the nose, with wines here will age well for the a flower shop - with intense “Love the nose,” commenteda smidgin of pineapple. Very short term,” said another. spicy hints. Soft and complex one judge. “It’s funky andtight, bright citrus palate. $17 in the mouth, with flavours like interesting.” Complex,Upper Reach Reserve Deep Woods Estate Reserve grapefruit essence. $25 toasty palate with grapefruitSwan Valley Chardonnay Margaret River Chardonnay Windows Estate flavours. $282009 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Margaret River Woodgate ReservePolished citrus fruit with lovely Wonderfully funky/complex Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Manjimup Chardonnayoak to balance. Slightly sweet but aromas - quite savoury. Delicate Delightful old-fashioned style of 2008 HHH1/2has the acid to balance it. $28 yet complex palate with a core chardonnay with lifted toasty/ Heavy, complex aromas - quiteMillbrook Limited Release of varietal fruit carried by some mushroomy aromas and a rich, funky. Slippery on the mouthWestern Australia gorgeous oak and complex oak-driven palate with a lovely - a little toasty and developed,Chardonnay 2009 HHH ferment notes. $42 long, drying finish. $30 with long, peachy flavours. $28Very intense, oak-driven style. Pemberley Pemberton Wise Eagle Bay Single Barking Owl GeographeToasty tobacco nose and lovely Chardonnay 2008 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Western Australia Chardonnay 2008 HHHsoftness in the mouth. $42 Lovely meaty/smoky fragrances Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Sweet fragrances and soft, with a perfumed lift. Interesting Quite a minerally bouquet along sweet flavours bright with citrus/ palate - complex and nutty with mushroom and honeyed orange-like characters. $17.95 with mouthfilling caramel/ characters. Bright, lean, chablis- Barwick Estates cashew flavours and grapefruit like palate. “A great wine,” Black Label Western nuances. $23.99 said one judge. $35 Australia Chardonnay The Growers’ Reward 2008 HHH Margaret River Intense malty/savoury aromas Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 and lovely flavour complexity Vibrant yet subtle chardonnay on the bright palate. Incredible aromas in the stone-fruit citric end. $20 spectrum. Nice complexity Middlesex 31 Pemberton on the palate, with good fruit Chardonnay 2008 HHH concentration. $19.95 Interesting style - loads of Preveli Margaret River smoky bacon/vanillin characters Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 with a backbone of funky Very light, perfumed bouquet complexity. $25 and quite a fat, old-fashioned Plantagenet Great style of palate with seamlessly Southern Chardonnay balanced flavours. $24.95 2008 HHH Lost Lake Pemberton Developed, savoury bouquet Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 and rich core of intense fruit Quite a complex style - a touch flavours on the mid-palate. $28 sweet, with lovely mushroomy notes, good use of oak and a crisp acid backbone. $25Paul Boulden Alan Dineen JUDGESChief winemaker for Wine retailer and ownerSandalford Wines for the of Chateau Guildford. An Alex Hudakpast six years. Formerly educator in wine marketing Wine distributor. Haswith Yalumba, Stoniers with extensive senior wine judged in Perth, Sydney,and Tarrawarra. Also show judging experience Adelaide and many regionalvintaged in Bordeaux and around Western Australia, wine shows. Winner in theSpain. Judge at Adelaide involving 30 national shows. Len Evans Inaugural winewine show and Cowra. scholarship. Studying for the MW qualification. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 103

BEST OF THE WESTWise Reserve Pemberton Voyager Estate Mad Fish Gold Turtle Abbey Creek PorongorupChardonnay 2008 HHH Margaret River Western Australia Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2Very appealing, developing, Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Chardonnay 2007 HHH Strong varietal characters ontoasty wine. Musky nose and Gorgeous nose described by Buttery bouquet with savoury the nose and good varietal fruitdrying palate. $28 one judge as having “wild notes which follow through to on the tight, lean, green tannic passionfruit fragrances”. the complex, citrusy palate. $29 palate. $30Xanadu Margaret River Lovely long, lingering melangeChardonnay 2008 HHH of flavours, with lots of acidity Cape Grace Margaret River Barwick Estates WhiteWonderfully intense aromas ensuring a long life. $42 Chardonnay 2007 HHH Label Western Australiaand flavours reminiscent of Watershed Awakening Wild meaty/mushroomy nose Pinot Noir 2009 HHHoak, custard, mushroom and Margaret River and developed flavours that are Bright, simple fragrances andpeaches. $29 Chardonnay 2007 HHHH light yet complex. $38 lovely raspberry-like fruit on the Earthy/savoury nose with palate. Good tannins. $15Were Estate Single honeyed characters developing. Peccavi Margaret RiverVineyard Reserve Old-school style of palate Chardonnay 2007 HHH Batista Estate WarrenMargaret River showing good fruit, well-handled Slightly austere style with good Valley Pinot Noir 2008 HHHChardonnay 2008 HHH oak and a fine acid spine. $44.95 range of textures and flavours Good WA pinot style with gameySoft, easy-drinking, old- Stella Bella Margaret River and ageing nicely. $45 meat characters nicely integratedfashioned style of chardonnay Chardonnay 2007 HHH1/2 with red berry fruit. $39.95that’s rich and flavoursome. $30 Buttery malo aromas fill the ROSE nose and are followed by a nice Harewood EstateMoss Brothers Single savoury/mineral palate with 18 TASTED Great Southern Pinot NoirVineyard Margaret River tight, crisp acidity. $30 3 AWARDED 2008 HHHChardonnay 2008 HHH Leeuwin Estate Good funky, strawberry-likeLifted toasty/butterscotch Art Series Margaret River Difficult group of wines - they pinot aromas and a green,bouquet, with more butterscotch Chardonnay 2007 HHH1/2 promised so much with their lean palate with fragrant berryon the lively palate. $35 Interesting combo of cashew nut, bright lively colours but often flavours. $19.50 peach and lavender-like aromas. didn’t deliver.Howard Park Western Lovely aged caramelly flavours Lost Lake Single VineyardAustralia Chardonnay with a rich core of fruit. $80 Watershed Shades Pemberton Pinot Noir2008 HHH Trevelen Farm Great Margaret River Rose 2008 HHHSyrupy, perfumed aromas and Southern Chardonnay 2009 HHH Simple style with a light andgreat length of ‘wild’, developed, 2007 HHH Smells of strawberries and pretty strawberry nose andcreamy flavours. $38 Ageing beautifully and cream, with cherries in the delicate berry flavours. $25 showing lovely malty/caramel background. Perfect fruit/acidEvoi Reserve complexity. Needs to breathe balance on the palate. $16.95 OTHER REDMargaret River before drinking. $20 VARIETALSChardonnay 2008 HHH Vasse Felix Heytesbury wine by brad WesternPretty nose with interesting Margaret River Australia Rose 2009 HHH 10 TASTEDcoconut characters. Lovely Chardonnay 2007 HHH Simple, estery, lolly-like aromas 5 AWARDEDbright floral/citrus palate with Accentuated aromas of and a bright, light, fragrantloads of spice. $42 truffles and peaches, with palate. Easy drinking. $17.95 Diverse group of varieties. amazing savoury flavours and Some were worthy lunchtimeWoodside Valley Estate lingering finish. $48 Devil’s Lair Fifth Leg drinking wines, while othersLe Bas Margaret River Western Australia Rose showed winemaking faults.Chardonnay 2008 HHH Lillian Lefroy Brook 2009 HHHComplex, honeyed aromas Pemberton Chardonnay Interesting funky aromas with a Myattsfield Joseph Myattwith some ‘wild’ notes. Lovely 2007 HHH lean, light palate that has lovely Reserve Perth Hills Redslippery, commercial-style Coconut-like aromas with a viscosity and sweetness. $19.99 Blend 2005 HHHH1/2palate. $48 dash of spice. Soft and sweet Pretty nose: fragrant and and tasting of apricots and PINOT NOIR fresh with herbs, menthol andCHARDONNAY cumquats. $28 raspberries. Juicy palate with2007 & OLDER 22 TASTED attractive prune juice and dried 5 AWARDED fig flavours and amazing sweet-13 TASTED mid palate. $3210 AWARDED Disappointing class. Some were picked too ripe - exhibiting Mantra Margaret RiverConsistently strong class. jammy characteristics - or were Sangiovese 2008 HHH1/2Vintage 2007 was the overly tannic. “There is a place Leathery nose with a dash ofbeginning of the chardonnay for pinot in WA but it’s solely for prune juice. Interesting fruittransition, with winemakers sparkling wines,” said one judge spectrum ranging across thelooking at making different (perhaps a touch harshly!). tannic palate. $24.95styles. “This is a great exampleof what chardonnay can Capel Vale Cellardeliver,” said one judge. “Fruit Exclusive Geographe Petitwith elegance is the key.” Verdot 2008 HHH Powerful varietal with a jammy nose and dark and spicy dried fruit palate. $26.95104 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingWestern Range Wines Deep Woods Ebony Ironwood EstateGoyamin Pool Margaret River Cabernet Porongurup MerlotOld Vine Perth Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHHGrenache 2007 HHH Good depth and intensity of Dark jubey fruit nose and full-Simple dry red style - quite ripe, rich berry fruits showing bodied palate with loads ofsweet. Some raspberry fruit slight prune-like notes. sweet juicy/fleshy varietal fruit,characters with coconut Balanced oak and alcohol and minimal oak and good length ofnuances. $19.95 lovely silky-soft tannins. $14.94 grainy tannins. $20Mad Fish Gold Turtle Fermoy Estate Margaret Windance Margaret RiverWestern Australia River Merlot 2007 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2Tempranillo 2007 HHH Bright crimson red wine Aromas of black jubes withSmells of Ribena with a with fresh, bright, redcurrant a dusting of cedary oak. Full-dash of mint. Pleasant juicy, aromas and very good oak bodied palate, with good fruitsavoury palate has a slight integration. Red fruit elements intensity, attractive oak andspicy edge. $29 on the velvety palate with a silky tannins. $22 herbaceous background and Poacher’s Ridge Louis’OTHER RED lovely soft tannins. $30 Block Great SouthernBLENDS Truffle Hill Pemberton Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 Merlot 2008 HHHH Very stylish wine with a lovely15 TASTED Stewed berry fruit aromas ripe dark plum nose and big,7 AWARDED with a eucalypt lift. Floral fruit alcoholic palate with sweet fruit flavours, good tannin backbone, and firm tannins. $23.99Obviously a mixed group of Windance Margaret River lingering acidity and long, black Chalice Bridge Margaretblends. The better ones were Cabernet Shiraz olive-like finish. $19.99 River Merlot 2007 HHHattractive drinking wines. 2009 HHHH Very fresh, balanced and“Fresh and beautifully made,” silky-smooth wine with lifted,observed one judge, “They spicy red fruits and grippydon’t need to be blockbusters.” tannins. $25.95 Dark cherry colour and beautifullyVictory Point The Mallee luscious, spicy nose. ExcellentRoot Margaret River smart, full-bodied palate withCabernet Sauvignon subtle oak, ripe fruit and powderyMalbec Merlot 2007 HHHH tannins. 3-5 $22Lovely fresh rose petal/violet/ Kiss Chaseycedar nose. Tight, elegant palate Premium Red 2008 HHHwith firm, austere fruit and solid, Aged, leathery nose with oakchewy oak. Will be great given dominant. Attractive sweet fruitmore time. 3-5 $26 flavours with a savoury edge. $15 Merops Ornatus Cellar Door Margaret River Cabernet Open 7 days 10am till 5pm Franc Merlot 2008 HHH 2764 Caves Rd, Yallingup, Western Australia Old-fashioned style with oak p/f: 08 9755 2293 m: 0438 558 293 dominating the nose and sweet www.windance.com.au jubey fruit filling the mouth with flavour. $28 Celestial Bay Zenith Margaret River Cabernet Shiraz Petit Verdot 2007 HHH Fantastic colour, super-ripe, jammy nose and simple, kirsch- like flavours. $35Paul Conti Roccella MERLOT HHHHH James HallidayWestern Australia GrenacheShiraz 2009 HHHH 23 TASTEDBright, youthful colour with 6 AWARDEDattractive floral cherry aromas andtight, crisp palate with long sour Tough call here, with lots ofcherry flavours, savoury notes green fruit characters andand nice grainy tannins. $16 poor-coloured wines on display. But the better wines had fruit ripeness and sweetness with appropriate oak levels. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 105

BEST OF THE WESTCABERNET Flametree Margaret River Fraser Gallop EstateMERLOT Cabernet Merlot Margaret River Cabernet2009 - 2008 2008 HHHHH Merlot 2008 HHHH Very well crafted wine. Great Full-bodied, ripe, fleshy24 TASTED colour. Bags of luscious sweet wine brimming over with18 AWARDED fruit without being over the top, sweet blackcurrant fruit andVery strong class! “Thank and well-matched, crisp acidity to fleshy tannins, and with aGod for cabernet after the balance. Youthful and tight and subtle backbone of well-merlots,” said one judge. needs more time. 3-5 $25 handled oak. $20 Poacher’s Ridge CrookedThis reflects the very good Tale Mt Barker Cabernet‘08 vintage that gave us ripe Feet First Margaret River Capel Vale Debut Western Merlot 2008 HHH1/2tannins and good structure and Cabernet Merlot Australia Cabernet Merlot Good cool climate tomato leaf/offers great ageing potential. 2009 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH forest floor bouquet, and a Fantastic colour and perfectly Attractive aromas of palate offering a big mouthfulMerops Margaret River ripened dark berry fruit aromas blackcurrant and cedar with a of savoury/green flavours. $19Cabernet Merlot that lift from the glass. Intense hint of violets. Lots of sweet, Willow Bridge Estate2008 HHHHH sweet fruit flavours matched ripe fruit flavours. Lovely Dragonfly WesternBig, rich wine with lots of by the velvety, mouth-coating palate weight and good tannin Australia Cabernetsuper-ripe fruit sweetness and tannins. $17.74 structure. $17.95 Merlot 2008 HHH1/2obvious, but very attractive, Sandalford Margaret River Hay Shed Hill Margaret Very oaky but there’s plenty ofgrainy tannins. Palate has a Cabernet Merlot River Cabernet Merlot quality cabernet fruit to carryclassic cabernet structure with 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH it. Herbaceous aromas andlong, lingering flavours. $28 Pretty, perfumed, cooler Herbs underscore the elegant excellent flavours. $16.50 climate style of cabernet that’s blackcurrant and violet nose. Goose Chase Margaret very elegant and feminine. Sweet dark fruits fill the palate River Cabernet Merlot Lifted aromas and persistent, with masses of grainy tannins 2009 HHH medium-bodied palate. $18.99 and toasty oak. $20 Pretty redcurrant aromas with Windance Margaret River an intense floral lift. ‘Honest’, Cabernet Merlot easy-drinking, full-bodied 2008 HHHH palate. $15 Lovely leafy/minty fruit Swings & Roundabouts freshness. Very good oak Margaret River Cabernet handling and persistent, grainy Merlot 2008 HHH tannin structure with drying Complex, dark, spicy varietal oaky finish. $22 fruit with very good oak Amberley Secret Lane support, and firm, ripe, drying Margaret River Cabernet tannins. $19 Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Tiger’s Tale Margaret Aromas in the herbal/mint River Cabernet Merlot spectrum. Warm and ripe in the 2008 HHH mouth, with attractive lingering Jubey fruit aromas with slight flavours. $20 herbal notes. Good fruit Voyager Estate Girt By Sea sweetness, ripe tannins and Margaret River Cabernet crisp acid. $19.95 Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Fishbone Margaret River Lifted aromas of redcurrants Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH and cedar, and a nicely Dark, brooding, briary nose and structured, commercial-style loads of jubey fruit flavours with palate with plenty of sweet plenty of acid on the finish. $20 fruit. $24106 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingTassell Park Wines Deep Woods Estate Thompson Estate Andrea Jane BrookMargaret River Cabernet Margaret River Cabernet Reserve Margaret River Shovelgate VineyardMerlot 2008 HHH Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 Cabernet Merlot 2007 HHH Margaret River CabernetPerfumed, confectionery, Spicy plum fruit nose with A tad lean and green, with Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2red fruit bouquet. Sweet fruit noticeable oak. Palate has loads attractive tomato leaf/forest Leafy cassis nose still a tadflavours, textured tannins and of plum and blueberry flavours floor fruit and well-matched closed at this stage. Ripe, sweet,greenish finish. $23 with good tannin structure. $28 oak. $38 dark fruit flavours perfectlyVasse Felix Margaret matched by the oak. Rich, longRiver Cabernet Merlot Fermoy Estate Yallingup CABERNET and nicely textured. $352008 HHH Vineyards Margaret River SAUVIGNON 2008 Brown Hill HannansPleasantly soft, cooler climate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Cabernetstyle with lifted black fruits and Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 18 TASTED Sauvignon 2008 HHHHnice spicy oak. $25 Simple, soft, easy-drinking 9 AWARDED Gorgeous colour, pretty, wine that smells of tomato leaf perfumed nose and lovely silkyCABERNET with some briary notes and Mixed bag, with some excellent palate with plenty of flavour.MERLOT flavours of sweet fruit. $20 performers and some lacking Still very young - definitely one2007 & OLDER weight. The better wines offer for the cellar. $18 Castle Lion Western good cellaring potential.23 TASTED Australia Cabernet Merlot9 AWARDED 2007 HHH1/2 Trevelen Farm The TunneyThe ‘07s had lots of up-front Lifted, ripe blackcurrant/cedar Western Australia Cabernetsweet fruit but a number fell aromas. Full-bodied palate with Sauvignon 2008 HHHHaway quickly. The better wines sweet, ripe fruit, grainy tannins “A delicious wine,” said onehad superior structure and and slightly pencilly oak. $12.99 judge. Very youthful, with bags ofpersistence. And a couple of Stella Bella Margaret briary fruit and plenty of powdery‘05s showed just how good that River Cabernet Merlot tannins. All it needs is lots morevintage was for cabernet styles. 2007 HHH Ring Bolt Margaret River time in the cellar. 5+ $20 Interesting coriander note to Cabernet SauvignonThompson Estate Locum the dark fruit nose. Lots of 2008 HHHHH Fraser Gallop EstateMargaret River Cabernet sweet fruit flavours with a Rich, brooding, Ribena-like Margaret River CabernetMerlot 2005 HHHHH savoury edge. $32 aromas and what one judge Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2Lovely soft, flavoursome wine Moss Brothers Wilyabrup described as a “straightforward, Gorgeous wine. Cracker ofthat’s ageing beautifully and yet Margaret River Cabernet no-nonsense palate”. Long, a colour with very prettystill displays freshness. Lovely Merlot 2007 HHH fleshy, juicy flavours and firm, nose, mouthful of flavour andsweet fruit, silky tannins and Earthy, blackcurrant aromas grippy tannins. $19.99 impeccable balance. $34long, lingering finish. Plenty of and jubey flavours with alife left in it yet. $22 savoury element. Lovely Tassell Park WinesWatershed Senses drinking. $35 Margaret River CabernetMargaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHMerlot 2005 HHHH Lovely mid-weight commercialSoft, aged wine with cedary/ wine with pretty, brambly fruitforest floor aromas showing and chewy tannins. $28caramelly development. Long,soft and silky in the mouth with STAR RATINGS good dose of porty fruit. $24.95Plantagenet Omrah Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofWestern Australia Cabernet excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industrySlightly waxy, perfumed red professionals and are compared in peerfruit nose and medium-bodied, classes by three judges.flavoursome palate with some CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,cherry notes and greenish a major mail-order business.tannins. $18 CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 158. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 107

BEST OF THE WESTHay Shed Hill Block 2Margaret River CabernetSauvignon 2008 HHHNice leafy cabernet fruit. Long,lingering varietal flavours andpersistent tannins. $50Mantra Abundance Plantagenet Great Poacher’s RidgeMargaret River Cabernet Southern Cabernet Louis’ Block GreatSauvignon 2008 HHH Sauvignon 2007 HHHHH Southern CabernetSmells like boiled lollies and Pretty cabernet fruit nose with a Sauvignon 2007 HHHHhas a nice level of ripe, grippy lovely ‘cool’ edge. Big, powerful Fine wine offering lovelyfruit flavours. Slightly hot palate - loads of sweet fruit drinking. Dark and briary on thefinish. $24.95 and fine-grained tannins. Great nose, with a richly flavoured, power and ripeness and has tangy palate showing greatHay Shed Hill Margaret years ahead of it yet. $37 tannin persistence. $19.99River Cabernet Sauvignon2008 HHH Laurance of MargaretNose has barnyardy notes. River Icon CabernetLovely up-front jubey fruit Sauvignon 2007 HHHH1/2flavours. Not overly complicated Incredible colour, gorgeousbut a good quaffer. $25 dark, ripe, berry fruit aromas and a very classy, perfectlyCABERNET balanced, palate with superbSAUVIGNON fruit and deft use of oak. Still a2007 & OLDER youth. $4037 TASTED22 AWARDEDBig class of what WA does Woodgate Reservewell! The panel agreed that at Manjimup Cabernettheir best these are among the Sauvignon 2007 HHHHtop wines in Australia. “These Big, super-rich, alcoholic wineare hitting their straps in terms - very youthful and with lovelyof drinkability,” said one judge, colour. Dark jubey fruit on the“with great tannin structure.” nose and vibrantly sweet berry flavours with firm tannins. $28Peccavi Margaret River Fuddling Cup Sandalford Prendiville Mad Fish Gold TurtleCabernet Sauvignon Geographe Cabernet Reserve Margaret River Margaret River Cabernet2007 HHHHH Sauvignon 2007 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2007 HHH1/2Complex and distinct cassis/ Medium-red wine with excellent 2005 HHHH1/2 Pretty, perfumed/floral fruitherbaceous cabernet fruit varietal fruit sweetness. Cedar Velvety-smooth wine. Nose nose and finely structured, mid-bouquet - very balanced. This and red fruits on the nose and shows classic herbal/rosemary weight palate with good dose a palate exhibiting ripe flavours, characters and palate has real of dark spicy fruit and drying persistent fruits, silky-soft tannins fresh, sweet red berry fruits tannins. $29 and well-integrated oak. $22 and clever use of oak. Needs Howard Park Leston Vasse Felix Margaret another five years! $90 Western Australia Cabernet River Cabernet Sauvignon Ironwood Estate Sauvignon 2007 HHH1/2 2007 HHHHH Porongurup Cabernet Nicely textured wine with Excellent concentration of berry Sauvignon 2006 HHHH an abundance of dark fruit, fruits, cedar and choc-mint Attractive, aged leathery/ choc-mint and forest floor aromas and some lovely ripe, redcurrant nose with a characters. Good commercial persistent, cedary fruit flavours seamlessly smooth, well- style. $40 well matched by velvety tannins structured, flavoursome palate Cape Grace Margaret with a long, soft finish. $38 showing lots of ‘poise’. Good River Cabernet Sauvignon Forester Estate current drinking. $20 2007 HHH1/2 Yelverton Reserve Western Lovely nose - smells likebalance follows through to the Australia Cabernet Ribena with some forestwell-structured palate with Sauvignon 2005 HHHH1/2 floor characters and a dashperfectly ripened cool climate Stylish number with an unusual of coffee. Rich palate withfruit. 5+ $45 nose and great concentration of savoury notes. $45 plum/mulberry fruit flavours on the silky palate. Lots of tannins and very good oak use. $55108 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingWatershed Awakening Howard Park Abercrombie The Spaghetti BowlMargaret River Cabernet Western Australia CabernetSauvignon 2007 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2007 HHH This is Margaret River’s best and longest establishedLong, flavoursome wine with Alluring fruitcake-like nose and licensed restaurant. The Spaghetti Bowl is the place wherelots of sweet, ripe fruit showing big, rich and slightly jammy the locals love to eat!earthy complexity and persistent, palate. $85grainy tannins. $54.95 The huge open log fire provides a warm atmosphereXanadu Next of Kin SHIRAZ BLENDS during our cold winter months, where you can relax on theMargaret River Cabernet comfortable lounges after your meal to enjoy either a glassSauvignon 2007 HHH 18 TASTED of Margaret River wine or a liqueur coffee.Well-made wine with lovely 11 AWARDEDsweet fruit flavours and good The fully stocked bar offers local and imported beers, spirits,tannin structure with a solid Some excellent results from cocktails and an extensive wine list showcasing some offinish. $18 this group. The good producers Margaret River’s best wines.Castle Lion Reserve shone with well-handled fruit. ItFrankland River Cabernet was interesting to see a handful Our menu is very designed to please all palates. We haveSauvignon 2007 HHH of viogniers as an addition to traditional pasta dishes, a variety of seafood, beef, venison,Cool, earthy/forest floor the shiraz varietal, most of them chicken dishes, salads and decadent desserts. We can alsonotes on the nose and simple, in the mid-weight range. cater for different dietary requirements. All of our meals aretannic palate. “Very honest prepared fresh and use local produce when possible.wine.” $20.99 We are proud to support local musicians, who come and entertain our guests on Friday and Saturday nights. 117 Bussell Highway Margaret River Fully licensed Restaurant Open for Lunch – Saturday & Sunday 11.30am – 2.30pm Open for Dinner 7 nights from 6pm Please call 08 9757 2999 to make a reservationWilly Bay Reverse Swing Millbrook Estate Margaret River Winery & Brewery ToursGeographe Cabernet Perth Hills Shiraz ViognierSauvignon 2007 HHH 2007 HHHHH • Visit intimate & corporate wineries/breweries • Visit 7 attractions daily •Simple stewed red fruit nose Big, intense, almost black, wine • Chocolate & cheese companies • 5 liqueurs & ports • Experience Aboriginal &and overtly ripe palate with a with a dark, brooding nose. pioneer history • Wine guidance • Large Australian lunch at a winery included •long, soft finish. $22 Nicely textured, well-balanced • Behind the scenes tour of a winery • Fine wine, fab food, fun people •Rosabrook Margaret palate that’s long and rich and • Great music • 7 days a week • 10 – 5pm •River Cabernet Sauvignon has plenty of extracted fruit tougrestDi$on30baoowtfhfe!ek,2007 HHH punch. Needs more time. $35 Bushtucker Cave & Canoe TourSmoky/herbal aromas, with more Chalice Bridge Margaret on Margaret Riverof the green herbal characters River Shiraz Cabernetobvious on the palate. $25 2007 HHHH Winner • All ages & abilities • 2 – 5 person eco canoes • Tour includesXanadu Margaret Lovely depth of colour. Nose a 5 State four hours of fun, interesting sites & experiences with anRiver Cabernet Sauvignon touch stalky and herbal. Quite Excellence2007 HHH savoury palate with black Awards exceptional guide • Try the emu, kangaroo & grub pate when youBright minty/redcurrant aromas olive-like flavours and plenty of sit down to our fantastic Bushtucker lunch • Gorgeous scenery •and good sweet fruit flavours tannic grip. $25.95with mouth-coating tannins. $29 Hillbille James Brittain • 7 days a week • 10 – 2pm •Harewood Estate Great Blackwood Valley ShirazSouthern Cabernet Viognier 2005 HHHHSauvignon 2007 HHH Plenty of attractive, sweet,Pretty wine with persistent, stewed fruit charactersstrawberry-like fruit mingling with with earthy/charry/tobaccodark chocolaty characters. $29.50 elements. Nice soft, roundedChurchview Estate tannins and a long, soft, sweetThe Bartondale Reserve finish. $48Margaret River CabernetSauvignon 2007 HHH Bushtucker Tours • 20 Auger Way West, Margaret River, Western AustraliaLovely smooth, clean wine Bookings: 8am – 8pm • Telephone: (08) 9757 9084with a big kick of sweet, dark,prune-like fruit. $36.50 Email: [email protected] • Web: www.bushtuckertours.com May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 109

BEST OF THE WESTWillow Bridge Estate Woodgate Manjimup Clockwork Margaret River Feet First Frankland RiverGravel Pit Ferguson Valley Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHHHShiraz Viognier 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Super intense colour - “It’s like Great colour, intense redcurrant/Big, oak-dominated wine that Spices and pepper mingle with black velvet,” suggested one blackberry aromas and a“needs a big steak”, according cherries on the nose. Palate has judge. Perfect winemaking, with delicious, velvety palate withto one judge. Lots of fruit to intense, sweet, red fruit flavours magnificently ripened fruit, great great concentration of sweetmatch the astringent oak. One with subtle oak notes. $16 length of silky tannins and deft fruit flavours. Mellow wine thatfor the cellar. 5+ $30 use of oak. A stunner! $17.99 will age gracefully. $29.79 Watershed Shades Flametree Frankland River Moondah Brook PerthBarking Owl Western Margaret River Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHHAustralia Shiraz Viognier Cabernet 2005 HHH1/2 Silky-smooth wine with Big, ripe style that’s rich and2008 HHHH Nicely aged, medium-bodied, beautifully intense colour. complex, with an abundance ofRichly flavoured, nicely textured wine with some lovely Super-ripe black cherry and lifted plum/raspberry fruit andwine with intense concentration leathery notes integrated with plum-like fruit with a splash great persistence of savouryof cherries and plums showing jubey sweet fruit and silky of some smart new oak. Not tannins. $18spicy elements, soft tannins and tannins. $16.95 overtly complex but good Clown Fish Geographea long, savoury finish. $17.95 drinking. $25 Shiraz 2008 HHHHWestern Range Wines Myattsfield Perth Hills Capel Vale Regional Lovely fresh, perfumed,Julimar Perth Hills Shiraz Shiraz Mourvedre Series Mt Barker Shiraz blackberry aromas. Velvety in theViognier 2006 HHH1/2 Viognier 2008 HHH 2008 HHHHH mouth, with long, juicy, vibrant,Smoky characters dominate Gentle, lightly fruity style with Lovely wine that needs jammy fruit and nice oak tanninsthe dark fruit aromas. attractive spicy characters a lot more time to come showing through. $23.50Good persistence of sweet coming to the fore. $24 together. Spicy, lifted new oak Merops Margaret Riverfruit and dusty tannins on the dominates the cherry fruit at Shiraz 2008 HHHHpalate. $28.95 Moss Brothers the moment. Persistent tannins Attractive, easy-drinking style Moses Rock Margaret and a sweet fruit finish. $23.95 that has dark jubey fruit with an River Shiraz Cabernet intense lift and great balance 2007 HHH of tannins. Has length and Sweet, lifted oak tends to mask complexity. $28 the underlying black jubey fruit Western Range Wines - for now. Give it time. $19 Limited Release Perth Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHH Harewood Estate Great Smells of blueberries, Southern Shiraz Cabernet raspberries, pepper and spice 2007 HHH with smoky oak traits. Plenty Pretty, cool climate style with of juicy, sweet fruit on the soft, nice earthy notes mixing with approachable palate. $38.95 high-end fruit and greenish Sandalford Margaret River tannins. $19.50 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Beautifully perfumed, aromatic, SHIRAZ peppery/raspberry bouquet and 2009 - 2008 lovely softly textured palate with long, sweet red fruits. $18.99 35 TASTED 20 AWARDED “Pretty smart wines,” said one judge.” Great varietal character at least as good as the cabernets as a class.” The highlight here was the freshness and concentration of fruit.110 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingSwings & Roundabouts Mandalay Road Geographe Mad Fish Gold Turtle Jane Brook Back BlockMargaret River Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH Margaret River Shiraz Western Australia Shiraz2008 HHH1/2 Cool climate minty/eucalypt 2008 HHH 2007 HHHHHAromas of spice, subtle oak, character to the nose and some Subtle toasty/floral nose. Big, luscious beauty with yearsplums and sweet black fruits, quite minty flavours. $16 Lovely black fruit on the palate, ahead of it yet! Bags of licoricewith the long palate reflecting Pepperwood Estate which carries through to a and violet fruit and some top-the nose. Grippy on the end. $19 Premium Geographe warm finish. $29 class oak. Well-made wine Shiraz 2008 HHH with perfect structure andJarrah Ridge Reserve Perth Spicy, perfumed nose with Upper Reach Swan Valley balance. $25Hills Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 an oak lift. Good length and Shiraz 2008 HHH Xabregas Show ReserveTannins slightly dominate intensity of sweet, ripe fruit Quite a ripe, jubey wine with Great Southern Shirazthe pretty raspberry fruit - for flavours. $18 slight savoury elements and 2007 HHHHHthe time being. Needs some Windance Margaret River firm but balanced tannins. $30 Full-on, fresh, raspberrycellaring. $28 Shiraz 2008 HHH confectionery nose and Nicely textured wine with a SHIRAZ sumptuous mouthful ofVoyager Estate Margaret good hit of sweet fruit, obvious 2007 & OLDER intensely rich flavours. TanninsRiver Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 oak and a hot finish. $22 a touch obvious at the moment.Peppery, red fruit aromas Tassell Park Wines 41 TASTED A stunner in the making. $29.99dominated by coconut oak with Margaret River Shiraz 24 AWARDEDsweet, Christmas cake notes. 2008 HHHPalate reflects the nose. $32 Good shiraz, not unlike a Cherry If there was ever any doubt, Ripe bar, with lifted, spicy oak this shows a class of WA shirazWillow Bridge Estate and fine tannins. $25 which can hold its own againstDragonfly Western Deep Woods Block 7 the best in Australia. From aAustralia Shiraz Margaret River Shiraz good vintage in 2007 these2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH are great for drinking now orDeep purple wine with ripe Good solid varietal fruit with putting away for further ageing.plum aromas and zesty fruit acid fine tannins and lovely oak liftdominating the palate. Cellaring with a drying finish. $28potential. 3-5 $16.50YELVERTON VALLEY WINES margaret riverAward winning wines from our family owned and operated vineyard in the heartof the Margaret River Wine Region.Yelverton Valley 07 Cabernet MerlotYelverton Valley 09 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon593 Yelverton Road Yelverton 6280Phone/Fax : (08) 97557416Email: [email protected]: yelvertonvalley.com.au May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 111

BEST OF THE WESTHarewood Estate Tassell Park Wines Barton Jones Churchview Estate TheGreat Southern Shiraz Private Bin Margaret River The Big Wig Geographe Bartondale Reserve2007 HHHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH Margaret River ShirazGreat colour. Intense, ripe fruit Spicy and herbal on the nose Lovely mellow drinking. 2007 HHHwith a nice spicy edge lifts but not green. Some quality fruit Youthful, perfumed nose and Silky, ‘slinky’ wine - quitefrom the glass. Lovely palate here slightly overshadowed by lusciously sweet fruit palate. $24 savoury and briary. Big tannic- a mouthful of ripe, brambly the oak at the moment. Give it Windows Estate Margaret spine. Lovely drinking. $36.50fruit and long, persistent more time. $32 River Shiraz 2007 HHHtannins. $29.50 Howard Park Scotsdale Interesting herbal aromas and Howard Park LestonChalice Bridge Margaret Great Southern Shiraz punchy flavours with eucalypt Margaret River ShirazRiver Shiraz 2007 HHHHH 2007 HHH1/2 characters evident. $24 2007 HHHBig, powerful wine that’s still a Perfumed bouquet with spicy Watershed Senses Simple, fruit-driven style withbaby. Plenty of tannins dominate oak elements mingling with Margaret River Shiraz ‘honest’ blackberry fruit andthe dark jubey fruit at this stage. black plums. Attractive black 2007 HHH fine tannin backbone. $40Nice savoury elements. Loads of olive/dried herb palate. $40 Old-style nose with typicalpotential. $25.95 Plantagenet Great Southern cigar box characters. Palate has SWEET & Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 sweet fruit and mouth-coating FORTIFIEDChurchview Estate Savoury/smallgoods nose with tannins. $24.95Margaret River Shiraz white pepper lift. Good depth Mandalay Road 9 TASTED2007 HHHH1/2 of dark jubey fruit flavours. Has Western Australia Shiraz 5 AWARDEDStill a baby! Lovely subtle weight and power. $40 2007 HHHbut direct blackberry fruit and Well-ripened fruit with an Some nice drinking, with a fewdeceptive tannins that are Beach Head Margaret ageing caramel element and wines drier than expected.quite apparent but give good River Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 acid/oak balance. Simple,structure. Needs lots more Soft, full-bodied, chocolaty pleasant drinking. $25 Myattsfield Kennethcellaring. $18.50 wine with excellent intensity Stella Bella Margaret Green Perth Hills Vintage of spicy/sweet blackberry fruits River Shiraz 2007 HHH Fortified 2008 HHHHSandalford Estate beneath. $18 Spicy, aromatic potpourri of Beautifully intense dark redReserve Margaret River Pemberley Mt Barker jubey black fruits on the nose colour. Super-ripe fruit, cleanShiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2004 HHH1/2 and palate, with subtle oak spirit and a mellow structure.Big, rich shiraz with perfumed Elegant wine with spicy, integration. $26 “A good crack at a vintageviolet bouquet and very silky bouquet and unusual port,” said one judge. $28pretty, feminine palate with spicy, perfumed palate. Nice Willy Bay Middlea silky mouthfeel and gentle, texture, soft tannins, peppery Stump Geographe Shiraz Sandalford Elementlingering floral flavours right to finish. $29.99 2007 HHH Western Australia Latethe end. $33.95 Xanadu Next of Kin No-nonsense style showing Harvest 2009 HHHPoacher’s Ridge Sophie’s Margaret River Shiraz some leathery development Pretty, sweet fruit nose andYard Great Southern 2007 HHH and earthy sweet fruit. Fine pleasant, sweet, peach juice-Shiraz 2007 HHHH Well-structured, silky-smooth tannin length. $28 like flavours. $13.95Mellow, inviting wine - very wine with perfumed, licorice- Xanadu Margaret Riversavoury - with a touch of like fruit and fine tannins. $18 Shiraz 2007 HHH Trevelen Farmsweet fruits, some bitter Pinelli Family Very much in a Rhone style. Katie’s Kiss Franklandchocolate and a dash of spice. Reserve Swan Valley Smells of black olives with a Sweet Riesling 2009 HHHGood acid backbone. Lingering Shiraz 2007 HHH peppery lift. Obvious spice on Semi-sweet style with intense,aftertaste. $25.99 Classic lifted, sweet blackberry the palate. $26 lychee-like aromatics and nose with a similar palate Forester Estate Home refreshing balance of acidity. $14 showing some development. $21 Block Margaret River Shiraz 2007 HHH Capel Vale Cellar Very oak-driven style with Exclusive Western some ripe, raspberry-like fruit Australia Late Harvest behind and leading to a hot 2009 (375ml) HHH finish. $33 Obvious apricot-like botrytis characters on the nose and a super-sweet, unctuous palate. $19.95 Barwick Estates OV Pemberton Viognier 2009 (375ml) HHH Lifted guava aromas with melon notes. Sweet palate nicely balanced by the acid. $20112 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tasting AUSTRALIAPerth May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 113

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN NSWRELAXING REINVENTION A NICE LITTLE NUMBER pastries to enjoy with coffee or a glass of wine. Racine Restaurant and La CollineORANGE dining icon Selkirk’s is no ORANGE has new self-catering cellar door are open for dinner Thursday-more, but leading local chef Scott Want accommodation with the opening of No. Saturday, for lunch Saturday-Sunday andhas opened replacement restaurant 52, a lovely refurbished cottage in the as a cafe from 10am-3pm on ThursdaysBistro Ceello in the same building. heart of town on Sumner St, just down from and Fridays. Phone (02) 6365 3275; www.Scott formerly worked at Selkirk’s under Cook Park. The two-bedroom self-catering racinerestaurant.com.auMichael Manners and as head chef at cottage has comfortable beds with luxuriousthe Union Bank Wine Bar just down the linen and mohair blankets, a sitting room with BEDDING DOWNroad and is serving what he describes as TV/DVD, separate dining room and kitchen IN BERRIMA“simple, relaxed food”. with modern appliances, including a front- loading washing machine. There’s also a BLUEMETAL Vineyards in the Southern Expect starters like house-made terrine large, leafy courtyard with a barbecue and Highlands has opened new accommodationwith mustard, cornichons and bread, or off-street parking for two cars. - The Vineyard Cottage in Berrima, antwice-cooked goat cheese souffle with exciting new alternative in a region thatparsley sauce and mixed leaves, and The cottage costs $195 for one couple or lacks high-end options but has a growingmains including confit duck leg, creamy $150 per couple per night for two couples number of cellar doors, including Centennialmash, garlic green beans, chilli jam, red sharing at weekends. There are cheaper Vineyards, Southern Highland Wines, Tertini,wine sauce, and pan-fried market fish, rates midweek, with a two-night minimum stay. Eling Forest, St Maur and Joadja.lemon, dill and caper rice pilaf, rocket Phone (02) 6365 8411; www.no52.com.auand aioli. Entrees are all $18 and mains The cottage overlooks vines, has a$28 and all dishes are matched to local Things are also on the move in nearby wisteria-covered deck and is just overwines by the glass, many from standout Millthorpe, with Angullong winery having an hour from Sydney and two hours fromwineries like Bloodwood, Word of Mouth, recently opened its cellar door in an old Canberra. There are three stylish doublePhilip Shaw, Mayfield and Patina. bluestone stable next to the Commercial bedrooms (sleeping up to six people), Hotel. Angullong also has a wine bar/ along with a wood fireplace and two large Bistro Ceello is open Wednesday to restaurant called Basalt and the new Simply decks. The Bluemetal cellar door and cafeSaturday from 6pm and for lunch on Nile Cafe in Nile Street. offer wine tastings and a local produceFridays. Phone (02) 6361 1179; www. lunch menu, along with espresso coffees,bistroceello.com.au. CUISINE A L’ORANGE Devonshire teas and gourmet platters. Although The Vineyard Cottage is designedMARKET’S LOCAL FLAVOURS RACINE at La Colline, outside Orange, is for self-catering, guests can have breakfast one of the best country restaurants in New and other hampers delivered to their door.THE CAPITAL Region Farmers Market, South Wales, with husband and wife teamheld every Saturday from 8am to 11am at Shaun and Will Arantz enjoying growing Rates are $300 a night Friday to SundayExhibition Park in Canberra, is a magnet popularity with their French-influenced and $200 a night Monday to Thursday, withfor gourmets visiting the capital, and four cuisine using local produce. Racine is now a two-night minimum. Phone (02) 4877 1877regular stallholders won awards at the also open as a cafe on two days a week, or see www.bluemetalvineyard.com.au.2010 Sydney Royal Cheese and Dairy offering a selection of sweet and savouryProduce Show. Among the most popular items areLindsay & Edmunds’ range of exquisitecertified organic Belgian chocolates,cheeses from Small Cow Farm and dairyproducts from Country Valley. The 100-plus stalls offer a range of freshfood and agricultural produce straight fromthe producer to the customer. All fundsgenerated from the market are fed back intoregional communities and other projectschosen by the Rotary Club of Hall, whichfounded the market in 2004. See www.capitalregionfarmersmarket.com.au.114 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

travelbriefsMAKE TRACKS FOR MUDGEE PAMPERING AT PEPPERS new restaurant and cafe in May last year in a 100-year-old converted wool shed.BURNBRAE Cottage outside Mudgee is PEPPERS Manor House, home to Katersperfect for wine lovers who enjoy the great restaurant, is the ideal Southern Highlands Highlights on a self-guided pub trail throughoutdoors. Located 8km out of town on Hill End bolthole for those who love country house- the region include the Royal Hotel in Hill End,Rd in the Erudgere Valley, it’s close to three style hotels. The homestead was built in which dates back to the 1870s gold rush,wineries, with the Burnbrae cellar door next 1926 and its charm has been retained and the Globe Hotel in Rylstone, the Kandos Hoteldoor and Thistle Hill across the road. The two- enhanced by tasteful decoration to create and the Prince of Wales in Gulgong. “The pubsbedroom cottage is rustic and quite basic, an indulgent escape that blends deluxe are a great way for travellers to enjoy Mudgeebut also charming and comfortable. There’s a accommodation with gourmet food and wine. on a budget - we offer more than luxurywell-equipped kitchen, an open fire in winter guesthouses and wineries,” says regionaland verandah for the summer months. Phone During winter there are open fires, while in tourism manager Lucy White. Phone (02) 6372(02) 6373 3504; www.burnbraewines.com.au summer meals are served in a leafy courtyard, 1020; www.visitmudgeeregion.com.au. with drinks by the pool. Facilities include a The cottage is an ideal base for exploring beauty salon, swimming pool and tennis court KAMBERRA’S BIG PLANSMudgee food and wine activities like the and there are some lovely nooks and cranniesnew farmstead cheesemaking workshops on the ground floor that are perfect for relaxing IN CANBERRA, the Kamberra Wineat Leaning Oak winery, a program in which with a good book or the Sunday papers. Company is planning a $15 millionvisitors milk the sheep and goats then boutique development comprising amake, ripen and age cheeses by hand. With a full refurbishment now complete, hotel, restaurant, pub and mini-breweryThe cost is $165 per person including rooms and corridors have been reborn with adjoining its Lyneham headquarters. Themorning tea and lunch. (02) 6373 3814; new colour schemes, striking furnishings, winery has also relaunched its Meetingwww.leaningoak.com.au premium bathroom fittings, flat-screen TVs Place label, which has been off the shelves and deluxe carpets. Peppers Manor House for almost three years since the departure Visitors should also check out the renovated has 41 rooms and suites with views of the of former owner BRL Hardy.cellar door facility, in a garden setting with a beautiful English-style gardens and the Mountlake and picnic areas, at the Turner family’s Broughton golf course. Phone (02) 4860 3111; Kamberra Wine Company functionFrog Rock Wines (www.frogrockwines.com). www.peppers.com.au/manor-house. centre manager Will Penny says theThere are two large tasting areas and an Lyneham development will include a 120-exclusive private tasting room, as well as a HISTORIC PUB CRAWL room four-star hotel, pub and steakhouse,local produce store. tourist centre and wine-tasting area. Also VISITORS to Mudgee are being encouraged look for Capital Wines to open a new cellar The Paspaley family of pearl fame to visit some of the region’s historic pubs - as door later this year.have also opened a new cellar door for well as the town’s only brewery. There are overtheir Bunnamagoo Estate operation, 20 pubs in town and the neighbouring hamlets Left & centre: Peppers Manor House & Katers restaurant.which is 5km north of town and open of Rylstone, Hill End and Gulgong. Many sell Right: Mudgee Brewing Company cafe.every day from 10am to 4pm. See www. beer from the Mudgee Brewing Company, thebunnamagoowines.com.au. town’s first and only brewery, which opened a Opposite page Left: Angullong cellar door. Right: Bluemetal cottage. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 115

217 TASTED143 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN NSWAn excellent tasting; a great improvement from the Brangayne of Orangedifficult result from last year! Lots of exciting whites Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHon display here from quite a wide range of varietals, Lifted New Zealand stylereflecting the benefit of cool climate viticulture. Pinot bursting with pungent/tropicaland merlots are back and the natural tannins of the fruits. Very drinkable. $24reds show that appropriate oak mean less oak! Centennial Vineyards Woodside BowralSPARKLING SAUVIGNON Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Frog Rock Mudgee Pinot BLANC Delicate nose with hints of Gris 2009 HHH1/27 TASTED spices and blossoms, and Fuller style with a simple lolly4 AWARDED 11 TASTED more of the same on the tangy nose and broad pear/apple 7 AWARDED palate. $22 flavoured palate. $18The judges agreed this was a Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Angullong Fossil Hillgood group of clean, well-made Consistent group of mid-weight Orange Sauvignon Blanc Orange Pinot Grissparklings. “The best class I’ve and refreshing wines, well made 2009 HHH 2009 HHH1/2seen for a long time from this and in an easy-drinking style. Lifted passionfruit aromas and Quite austere, with obviousregion,” said one panellist. long, flavoursome palate with oak influence and some leesy/ Cooks Lot Orange slightly sour acid note. $30 toasty notes developingRosnay Organic Wines Sauvignon Blanc already. $20Central Ranges Sparkling 2009 HHHH PINOT GRIS/ Cooks Lot Orange PinotRose 2009 HHHH Spicy, honeyed sauvignon GRIGIO Gris 2009 HHHVery pretty, bright pink wine blanc with good level of Fairly neutral nose but thesmelling of lollies, spices and complexity, soft, spicy tropical 6 TASTED palate makes up for it withberries. Fresh and creamy fruit and some attractive grassy 5 AWARDED good varietal flavours and crisppalate with lots of berry fruit green elements threaded Mixed bag of food-friendly acid. $19.99flavours and plenty of ‘fizz’. $24 through. $19.99 wines. Some exhibited Belgravia Orange Pinot true varietal characters and Gris 2009 HHHMoppity Vineyards Angullong Orange mouthfeel, while others had Fuller style, with a simple lollyReserve Hilltops Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc oxidative or pressings issues. nose and broad pear/appleShiraz 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH flavoured palate. $22Nice bright red style - quite Spicy gooseberry/capsicum Ross Hill Orange Pinota vinous nose but a savoury/ nose and soft palate with Gris 2009 HHH1/2leathery palate with some lovely intensity of grassy/fruity More grigio in style than gris,chocolate, a touch of spice and flavours. $15 with good fresh melon nosegood level of sweetness. $49.95 Louee Wines Nullo and long, spicy fruit salad palateRosnay Organic Wines Mountain Rylstone with a fine acid spine. $30Central Ranges Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Some green nettles on the noseLight and fruity wine with and spicy/herbal flavours on thelifted fragrances of blossoms, slightly sweet palate. $18followed by simple, fresh, berry Swinging Bridgefruit flavours. $24 Orange Sauvignon BlancCentennial Vineyards 2009 HHHBowral Sparkling Pretty, well-made wine with spicyShiraz NV HHH tropical fruit salad characters onSweet fruit bouquet and good nose and palate. $18.95sweetness/savoury/raspberrydepth on the fresh palate. $25116 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingDRY WHITE Deep River Central Robert Stein Mudgee Louee Wines NulloBLENDS Ranges Semillon Sauvignon Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2 Mountain Rylstone Blanc 2009 HHH Fresh and youthful classic Riesling 2009 HHH9 TASTED Very soft, spicy, citrus blossom riesling. Fresh spicy/citrus4 AWARDED bouquet and long, rich, grassy/ aromas and lots of bright lime/ Closed nose but you can pickCommercial group of mid- citrus/spicy palate. $10 the citrus and spice. Longweight wines for easy drinking. citrus flavours with an excellent palate, good citrus depth and De Beaurepaire Captain acid backbone. ExcellentRolling Central Ranges Starlight Series Mudgee cellaring potential. 5+ $25 fine acid. 5+ $20Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Semillon Sauvignon Blanc2009 HHH 2009 HHH Penmara Five Moppity VineyardsWell-made, young, fresh and Good solid blend with Families Orange Riesling Lock & Key Hilltopslifted wine with bright tropical some savoury notes but 2009 HHHH Riesling 2009 HHHfruit salad-like fruit. $17 lemon characters dominate. Smells of apricots and pears with Lean, clean and fresh, Drink now! $19 a hint of orange blossom. Well- although starting to show structured palate full of lovely some early toasty/kerosene RIESLING/ flavours and quite European in development. $14.95 TRAMINER style. 5+ $15.95 Shaw Vineyards Estate 16 TASTED Premium Canberra 11 AWARDED Riesling 2009 HHH Smells musky with hints of Strong group of delicate, cool dried fruits. Broad, flavoursome climate rieslings with nice purity palate with touch of residual of fruit and acid. An alternative sugar. $22 style to the South Australians. OTHER WHITE Centennial Vineyards VARIETALS Woodside Bowral Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2 8 TASTED Water-white wine with spices and limes lifting off the 5 AWARDED nose. Well-balanced, slightly extracted riesling palate. Belgravia Orange Some interesting white Excellent fruit/acid balance and Gewurztraminer alternatives here, instead of just attractive mineral notes. $20 2009 HHHH sauvignon blanc or chardonnay. Great style - sweet yet refreshing, with an oily mouthfeel and plenty of spicy, ripe fruit flavours with nicely balanced residual sugar. $22Bunnamagoo Estate Tertini Southern Highlands Robert Stein Angullong OrangeMudgee Sauvignon Blanc Riesling 2005 HHHH1/2 Mudgee Gewurztraminer Verdelho 2009 HHHHHSemillon 2009 HHH Almost a traminer-like nose 2008 HHH1/2 Great nose! Good concentrationSimple, drier style with light with its rose petal aromas. Full Typical traminer - more of a of fruit salad aromas withand subtle spicy/citrus blossom and flavoursome palate of good drier style, with good palate an attractive spicy green lift.fruit characters. $21.95 varietal lemon fruit ripeness length and perfect flavour Perfect drive of floral/spicy/ with just the right level of balance. $20 tropical fruit with just the right sweetness. $27 Bloodwood Orange amount of acid to balance. $15 Riesling 2009 HHH Typical lifted lime/citrus aromas JUDGES and a sweetish palate balanced by crisp citrus fruit. $22.50 Printhie Mount Canabolas Collection Orange Riesling 2009 HHH Refreshing, flavoursome, youthful riesling with the finesse of a German kabinett. $25Stephen Doyle Jacob Stein Lynnette HaszardWinemaker/proprietor Winemaker for Robert Wine buyer forfor Bloodwood wines. Stein Winery, in Woollahra and BellevueAssociate judge for NSW Mudgee. Has vintaged Hotels and Bistroshows. Topped wine in Germany Rheingau Moncur restaurant.appreciation course at and Rheinhessen along Dux of RoseworthyAustralian Wine Research with Italy’s Piedmont Wine productionInstitute in 2002. Has and Ontario in Canada. course. Regularconducted 26 vintages Previously worked with Winestate NSW judge.around Australia. Moss Wood in WA, and Blue Pyrenees in Victoria. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 117

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSW Coolangatta Estate Estate Coolangatta Estate Estate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Grown Shoalhaven Coast Verdelho 2009 HHH Semillon 2003 HHHH Well-made, popular style Excellent example of an with good lift of pear/stone- aged semillon, with pleasant fruit characters and balancing mustiness to the nose and a sweetness. $19 palate showing perfect toasty development. Drink soon. $27Tertini Reserve Coolangatta EstateBarrel Fermented Shoalhaven Coast Coolangatta Estate EstateSouthern Highlands Savagnin 2009 HHH Grown Shoalhaven CoastArneis 2009 HHHH Well-made wine with quite a Semillon 2008 HHH1/2Rich and spicy, with a marmalade vinous nose - some stone-fruit Linseed and citrus obvious onedge to the stone-fruit characters. evident - and pleasant palate. $22 the nose, with a good grassySome very nice oak showing. varietal fruit palate starting to“Quite different from an Italian SEMILLON show toasty development. $22style,” said one judge. $40Tertini Reserve 11 TASTED Coolangatta Estate EstateSouthern Highlands 9 AWARDED Grown Shoalhaven CoastArneis 2009 HHH1/2 Semillon 2007 HHH1/2Light, delicate, spicy/apple Wide range of vintages on Nice toasty bottle agebouquet and soft and very show here, with nice acid and development mingling withpleasant savoury/apple/pear lanolin characters. It shows that honeyed/nutty fruit characterspalate with an oily mouthfeel. $35 these wines age well - in fact, and balancing acid. $22 some need time in the cellar. Coolangatta Estate EstateON THE SPOT Robert Stein Mudgee Grown Shoalhaven CoastCASH FOR YOUR Semillon 2008 HHHHH Semillon 2009 HHHOLD BARRELS! Excellent example of the Reserved linseed/citrus variety, with a nose that aromas, with more of theRegular pickups in reminded one judge of salt and these characters on the well-SA, Victoria, NSW wine regions. vinegar chips! Good grassy structured palate. $19Call Paul today on 0428 578 327 semillon fruit drive to the palate, with a hint of tobacco oak. $20 Coolangatta Estate Coolangatta Estate Individual Vineyard Estate Grown Wollstonecraft Shoalhaven Coast Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2005 HHHH1/2 Semillon 2009 HHH Beautifully balanced and Subdued nose - almost vinous complex wine with excellent - with a palate showing some toasty development mingling barrel ferment characters. $22 with very well balanced honeyed/nutty varietal fruit Coolangatta Estate Estate characters. $30 Grown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2002 HHH Soft, well-aged, spicy semillon that’s probably reached its peak, so drink now and enjoy. $25 CHARDONNAY 28 TASTED 20 AWARDED Strong class from a region that historically produces good chardonnay. Nice diversity of styles from the older, full- bodied Aussie ones to the leaner, modern wines. Coolangatta Estate Estate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2006 HHHH Quite a broad nose, with interesting linseed-like characters. Nicely developed honeyed/nutty palate, also quite broad but very acceptable. $28118 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tasting Bloodwood Orange Cuttaway Hill Southern Charles Sturt Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Highlands Chardonnay University Orange Quite a lean, vinous, pale-straw 2008 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHH wine - almost Chablis-like with its Attractive varietal fruit aromas Restrained and lightweight fine melon/apple fruit and good and nicely balanced palate with chardonnay with pleasant oak hit of acidity to balance. $27 just a touch of sweetness, balance. $14.30 lovely passionfruit varietal flavours and good oak. $20Ross Hill Orange High Valley MudgeeChardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2008 HHHHLovely complex, old-fashioned Complex, oak-driven style.style with honeyed/melon/ Fragrant, spicy wood aromascashew characters, fine wood and good depth of ripe peachtreatment, barrel ferment fruit flavours with layers ofand good depth of the spicy creamy malo and a long, dryingelements. $30 finish. $35 Bunnamagoo Windowrie The Mill Estate Mudgee Central Ranges Chardonnay 2007 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Rich wine showing excellent Savoury/melon nose - varietally length and intensity of pear/ intense. Palate delivers more peach varietal fruit with very varietal intensity and compleity good oak usage and a strong, of melon/peach flavours. $16.99 crisp acid drive. $21.95 Cuttaway Hill Southern Wild OatsLouee Tongbong Rylstone Highlands Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHChardonnay 2005 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2 Spicy melon nose withGorgeous spicy/citrus aromas Fleshy wine with a floral lift to some tropical notes, and awith hints of marmalade. the oaky nose. Sweet palate long, creamy, melon/peachExcellent length of lovely nutty/ with reasonable depth of palate. $18.99toasty/melon flavours mingling spicy/melon fruit and fine acid Deep River Central Rangeswith creamy butterscotch notes balance. $20 Chardonnay 2008 HHHand a glycerol mouthfeel. $23 Swinging Bridge Complex bouquet and very Canowindra Central Ranges flavoursome palate with slightPrinthie Mountain Montrose Stony Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 sour notes and drying oak. $10Range Orange Creek Mudgee Quite a charry oak nose, with Rosnay Organic WinesChardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2007 HHHH loads of oak also on a palate Cowra ChardonnayLovely complexity of melon/ Soft and well-balanced wine that has attractive underlying 2008 HHHstone-fruit, fine, creamy with great expression and fruit complexity. $18.95 Nice sweetness to the nose andmalo and yeasty/bread-like complexity of honeyed/spicy/ Printhie Mount Canabolas lovely long, creamy palate withcharacters woven together by toasty/toffee aged varietal Collection Orange layers of fine melon fruit. $20an attractive spicy lift. $17 characters. Oily feel in the Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 Centennial VineyardsThistle Hill Mudgee mouth. $23.99 Sweeter style with nice toasty Winery Block BowralChardonnay 2009 HHHH complexity developing and Chardonnay 2008 HHHFuller, creamy, buttery balanced by intense melon fruit Big, full and well-structuredstyle layered with intense varietal elements. $35 chardonnay with a slightlyfruit aromas and flavours, Windowrie Family sour/lactic, but not unpleasant,malo creaminess, excellent Reserve Cowra character. $23wood and very good overall Chardonnay 2007 HHH1/2complexity. $20 Old-fashioned, oak-driven style with a complex, creamy palate that has a long, lingering finish. $24.99Jason Boodville Donna Freeman JUDGESWine writer and Former Sommelier forpublisher. Has a the Wine Odyssey Wine Darren Jahndegree in viticulture Bar in Sydney, a premier Communications and& oenology and is a independent Australian Education Manager forregular panel member wine bar, restaurant Oatley Wines. Winein WA wine tastings. and retail store, with 50 educator and regular select wines on “tap”. wine panellist for Cellarmaster Wines. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 119

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSWBunnamagoo Estate PINOT NOIR Patina Orange Belgravia Central Ranges1827 Mudgee Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2004 HHH Sangiovese 2009 HHH2007 HHH 8 TASTED Spicy/sweet oak nose and Spicy and savoury, with lovelyRestrained, delicate and creamy 5 AWARDED light, molasses-like palate with berry fruit and forest floorwine - “with lots going on”, sweet fruit at the back. $27 nuances and a drying, tannicaccording to one judge. $39.95 “One of the best line-ups of pinot finish. $22 we have seen,” said one judge. OTHER REDROSE The younger vintages performed VARIETALS Angullong well, with less extraction and the Fossil Hill Orange9 TASTED alcohol under control. 12 TASTED Sangiovese 2008 HHH4 AWARDED 7 AWARDED Savoury and chocolaty, with grainy tannins and a hint ofOverall these were quite Bloodwood Orange Some good results across a liqueur-like sweetness. $20disappointing, with too many Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH number of different varietals.lacking brightness and fresh Fresh, lively, perfumed nose “This shows that a diversity of MERLOTacid. Some were unbalanced, with a hint of mint, and complex styles can be produced in thisshowing excess sugar. palate with good backbone of region,” observed one judge. 8 TASTED brambly fruit showing more of 7 AWARDEDCharles Sturt University the minty characters. $27Cellar Reserve Consistent class of good merlots.Tumbarumba Pinot Noir Prince Hill Mudgee The judges noted that theseRose 2009 HHH1/2 Barbera 2009 HHHH wines were young but, thankfully,Light, candied nose with a Dark cherry aromas with a without green overtones.hint of rose petal fragrances good spicy lift. Palate sweetand appealing Turkish delight and velvety, with very long, Millamolongcharacters on the palate. $15 soft tannins. Pleasant drinking Isabelles Orange when chilled. $19 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Very youthful, bright, plummyMoppity Vineyards Hilltops Ross Hill Pinnacle Angullong style with hints of muskyRose 2009 HHH1/2 Series Orange Pinot Noir Fossil Hill Orange fragrances on the nose andInteresting savoury/sweet 2009 HHHH Barbera 2008 HHHH fleshy fruit flavours. $20style - very pink, with delicate Smells fragrant - a little like Complex dark cherry/chocolatyhints of rose petal-like fruit the forest floor - with hints of style with an excellentcharacters. $19.95 cherries and spice. Lighter- structure, soft, furry tannins style, savoury palate with some and an attractive savoury attractive gamey notes. $35 thread running through it. $20Wild Oats Rose 2009 HHH Tertini Reserve Louee Rylstone Cabernet Bunnamagoo EstatePale pink wine with nice spicy Southern Highlands Franc 2006 HHHH Mudgee Merlotnose and offering fresh, delicate Pinot Noir 2006 HHHH Very minty/spicy nose and very 2009 HHH1/2and crisp drinking. $18.99 Blackberry aromas with herbal/ soft and generous palate with Light, fresh, berry bouquet withMoppity Vineyards thyme-like nuances and an intense and complex dark, soft, smoky oak edge. LovelyLock & Key Hilltops Rose excellent sweet fruit palate spicy, blackberry flavours and complexity of spices and2009 HHH showing attractive developed loads of tannins. $20 plums on the palate, with furryBright and very pleasant, tangy characters. $45 Coolangatta Estate Estate tannins. $21.95style with good weight of fruit Cuttaway Hill Grown Shoalhaven Coast Cooks Lot Mudgeeon the palate. $14.95 Southern Highlands Tannat 2007 HHH1/2 Merlot 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH Leathery/chocolaty aromas Lightweight, but has plenty Typical cool climate, peppery mingle with sweet raspberries. of fresh, intense, spicy fruit pinot with a light sprinkling of Gamey/savoury palate with characters, good structure and spices mingling with simple some sweetness and plenty of complexity. $19.99 cherry fruit. Very pleasant length. $35 drinking. $25 Prince Hill Mudgee Zinfandel 2009 HHH Classic zinfandel with masses of sweet raspberry fruit and quite sweet on the finish. $19120 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingWindowrie The Mill Windowrie The Mill CABERNETCentral Ranges Merlot Central Ranges Cabernet SAUVIGNON2008 HHH Merlot 2008 HHH1/2Lifted raspberry aromas and good Quite earthy and dusty-like 24 TASTEDbalance of fruit, oak and tannin aromas. Well-structured palate 15 AWARDEDelements on the palate. $16.99 with spicy, freshly baked cherry pie-like flavours. $16.99 Solid class with nice varietalBelgravia Orange Shaw Vineyard Estate character and few winemakingMerlot 2008 HHH Premium Cabernet Merlot faults. The judges were pleasedVelvety wine with a complexity 2008 HHH to see appropriate oak levels.of wood, spice and mint and Spicy, fragrant nose with violet/some plums at the back. $22 minty elements, and very Moppity Vineyards cabernet/cassis-like earthy fruit Reserve Hilltops CabernetSpring Ridge Cowra Vinifera Wines Gran Tinto palate. $22 Sauvignon 2006 HHHHHMerlot 2007 HHH Tempranillo Garnacha Rolling Central Ranges Lovely floral bouquet with aNose has interesting barnyardy Graciano 2005 HHH Cabernet Merlot 2007 HHH lilac-like aroma and some smartcharacters, followed by a big, Pleasant, savoury, chewy/ Bright red wine with lifted oak. Classic leafy blackcurrantdry red palate with a good meaty blend with slight herbal/ berry bouquet and solid, drying, palate with powerful tanninstannic grip. $19 thyme nuances. $24 tannic palate. $17 and remarkable body and Bunnamagoo Mudgee character $49.95Cuttaway Hill Reserve CABERNET Cabernet Merlot 2007 HHHSouthern Highlands BLENDS Subtle, medicinal nose - almost Rosnay Organic WinesMerlot 2006 HHH pinot-like - with a lightweight, Cowra CabernetAnother merlot more in a 7 TASTED fruit-filled palate. $23.95 Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2big, dry red style rather than 6 AWARDED Cuttaway Hill Cabernet Very well made - ageingvarietal, but good drinking. $28 Merlot 2006 HHH beautifully - with some top- Good commercial wines Ripe, savoury and complex quality fruit. Still bright andOTHER RED offering sound drinking in a style with barnyard-like lively, considering it’s a four-VARIETALS mid-weight style. character. Nice drinking. $20 year-old. Very drinkable! $207 TASTED4 AWARDEDSolid class, which showsthe value of blendingvarieties to compensate forsingular characters. Niceconsistency of quality.Freeman Secco Shoalhaven Coast NSWHilltops RondinellaCorvina 2005 HHHH Entirely Estate Grown WinesNose a little subdued and flat 86 Trophies and over 1100 wine awardsbut the palate is showing goodintegration of fruit, oak and “The Region’s standout producer”tannins, with a long, dryingfinish. $30Prince HillAcrobat SangioveseShiraz 2008 HHH1/2Smells of blackberry andcherries. Fresh and light in themouth, with excellent length ofplum and berry flavours. $15De Beaurepaire Captain Brangayne of OrangeStarlight Series Mudgee Tristan CabernetMerlot Cabernet Petit Sauvignon Shiraz MerlotVerdot 2008 HHH 2005 HHHHOld-fashioned, bright purple, Smells of red boiled lollies -non-varietal, jammy, dry red very confectionery-like nose.style. $19 Palate a nicely balanced and weighty concoction of berries and chocolate. $29 COOLANGATTA ESTATE WINERY * RESTAURANT * ACCOMMODATION * FUNCTIONS OPEN 7 DAYS * CELLAR DOOR 10am-5pm * LUNCH 12-2.30pm 1335 Bolong Rd Shoalhaven Heads Ph: (02) 44 487131 LIC 2400358 www.coolangattaestate.com.au May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 121

CENTRAL & WESTERN NSW Prince Hill Card Collection Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Savoury/bacony aromas with some candied cherries. Bright, ‘cheerful’, varietal palate. Drink young. $15 Moppity Vineyards Lock Pig in the House & Key Hilltops Cabernet Organic Cowra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2008 HHH Pleasing, stewed-like varietal Firm young cabernet with fruit with well-integrated oak. appealing, succulent fruit Gives good first impression. coming to the fore. $24.99 Drink now. $14.95 Swinging Bridge Thistle Hill Angullong Fossil Hill Canowindra Central Erudgere Cabernet Orange Shiraz Viognier Ranges Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Earthy nose with a slight Rich, spicy, dark red blend Fabulous crimson colour, dense, leathery note. Grippy, with plenty of juicy sweet dark ripe nose and young, firm palate tannic palate with good fruit fruits well matched by spicy with pretty, varietal fruit and sweetness. $20 oak - very flavoursome, with soft, chalky tannins. $19.95 a touch of alcohol heat on theRobert Stein Reserve Rascals Prayer finish. $20Mudgee Cabernet Hilltops Cabernet Jobbins Redemption Sauvignon 2008 HHH Canberra Shiraz Viognier Subtle olive and chick pea-like 2008 HHHH aromas. Lively and appealing Fragrant wine with a nice spicy/ currant/mint palate. Very tangy lift to the nose and bright, fresh. $13.95 perfumed raspberry fruit filling a well-structured palate withSauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 Moppity Vineyards balancing tannins. $21.99 CMBright and youthful, purple Hilltops Cabernet Prince of Orange Shirazwine - very stylish. Lots of Sauvignon 2008 HHH Viognier 2008 HHHHcurrant/cherry fruit, smart, Cool climate sweet cassis Lots of wood on the nose, withspicy oak, subtle, earthy bouquet and very impressive a slight fruit lift. Good varietalcomplexity and long, fine fruit weight on the palate. Long fruit characters showingtannins. 5+ $35 finish. 3-5 $19.95 through on the long and well- balanced palate. $22 Bunnamagoo Estate Printhie Mount Canabolas Mudgee Cabernet Collection Orange Shiraz Sauvignon 2006 HHH Viognier 2008 HHHH Leathery/tobacco aromas and Bright purple wine with the a palate with excellent body viognier fruit very obvious. and finesse and softening Fragrant, spicy bouquet and tannins. $23.95 complex, savoury palate with drying oak tannins. $35 SHIRAZ BLENDS Centennial Vineyards Reserve Bowral Shiraz 9 TASTED Viognier 2007 HHH1/2 Basic dry red style but has 9 AWARDED good depth of fruit and excellent length of soft, furryClimbing Orange Cabernet Vinifera Wines Cabernet Very strong class, showing the tannins. $30Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2005 HHH1/2 generosity of the grape which Belgravia Orange ShirazExcellent colour, great nose Lovely soft, long and generous suits this region and fills in the Viognier 2008 HHH- smells like an earthy/briary wine with developed berry cabernet backbone. Nose shows typical apricotpatch! Generous, nicely fruit and nice spearmint-like characters from the viognier.textured, classic cabernet layers. $22 Shaw Vineyard Estate Sound, well-structured savoury/palate that’s long and luscious, Canberra Shiraz Cabernet spicy palate. $22with a long, firm finish. $21.99 2008 HHHH1/2 Fragrant and spicy on the nosePrince of Orange Cabernet with a hint of mint. Lovely spicySauvignon 2005 HHHH Brangayne of Orange fruit cake-like flavours on aSound wine with developed, Cabernet Sauvignon long, elegant palate with moreleathery bouquet showing a 2007 HHH1/2 of the minty characters running through. $22fresh, minty lift. Good core of Intense, brooding aromas andfruit on the palate, with oak and lovely big, rich, lip-smackinglytannins in balance. 3-5 $22 flavoursome palate with great tannin structure. 5+ $35122 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingPrinthie Mount Canabolas Swinging Bridge Centennial Vineyards Millamolong 56 MilesCollection Orange Shiraz Canowindra Central Ranges Woodside Bowral Shiraz Orange Shiraz 2007 HHHCabernet 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 “Smells like a cabernet,”Sound, spicy/cherry style with Deep inky purple, with subtle Shy nose - not much showing thought one judge. But it hasslightly developed aromas and fragrances leading to a classic - and a ‘slightly built’ palate good savoury varietal fruitgood palate weight. $25 shiraz palate that’s all rich that’s fresh and young and very characters on the palate. $20Rosnay Organic Wines and spicy and tasting of appealing. $23Triple Blend Central Ranges blackberries. “Yum,” was one Bunnamagoo EstateShiraz Cabernet Sauvignon judge’s comment! $19.95 Moppity Vineyards Mudgee Shiraz 2007 HHHMerlot 2006 HHH Reserve Hilltops Shiraz Faint earthy/mulberry notesNice European-like ‘pong’ 2008 HHH1/2 on the nose. Interesting palateto the nose, and a mouth- Big, rich, old-fashioned style, with good fruit weight. $23.95puckering, tannic palate. $20 with oak dominating the nose and nice fruit sweetness filling Brangayne of OrangeSHIRAZ the mouth. 3-5 $49.95 Shiraz 2007 HHH Nose in the briary patch!30 TASTED Bloodwood Orange Shiraz Sweet, spicy palate and good20 AWARDED 2007 HHH1/2 tannin weight. Slight porty“More than a solid bracket,” Smells of sandalwood. Good fruit notes. $35agreed the judges. There were weight on a firm, earthy palatea few stand-outs and very few with more of the sandalwood Robert Stein Reservedisappointments. These wines coming through. $27 Mudgee Shiraz 2007 HHHshowed nice cool climate Maturing gamey/meaty nosestructure with suppleness and Millamolong Cooks Lot Mudgee and earthy/savoury palate withelegance in a mid-weight style. 56 Miles Orange Shiraz 2008 HHH a hot mouthfeel. $35The judges liked the restrained Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Good interplay between lightalcohol and oak. Bright cherry-red wine with and dark fruits on the nose, Louee Rumkers Peak nicely developed fruit characters which come together nicely on Rylstone Shiraz 2005 HHHMoppity Vineyards on a nose showing a hint of the tongue. $19.99 Big wine but a subdued nose.Reserve Hilltops Shiraz Vegemite. Lovely silky-smooth, Rich, nicely maturing palate2007 HHHHH fruit-driven palate. Good Belgravia Orange with ‘boisterous’ tannins andSolid, well-balanced, deep purple commercial style. 1-2 $20 Syrah 2008 HHH hot finish. $20shiraz with lovely inky fruit Pretty, purple wine that’sconcentration well integrated Shaw Vineyard Estate young, fresh and simple and SWEET WHITEwith silky tannins. Great oak Premium Canberra Shiraz has plenty of acidity. $22influence and balance. $49.95 2008 HHHH1/2 7 TASTED Brambles, raspberries, cloves Pig in the House Organic 1 AWARDED and eucalyptus mingle on the Cowra Shiraz 2008 HHH nose, followed by a long, lean, All good! Subtle red fruits on Too many broad, simple varietal palate with a very the nose. Good weight, height and sugary wines lacking in subtle flavour profile. $22 and breadth of sweet fruit on balance. Very disappointing! the palate. $24.99 Printhie Mountain Range Robert Stein Mudgee Orange Shiraz 2008 HHHH Ross Hill Orange Harvest Gold 2009 Very appealing and generous, Shiraz 2008 HHH (375ml) HHH even if it appears a little sweet. Fragrant aromas - all fruit and Pleasant lighter-style ‘sticky’ Interesting curry-like characters spices. Elegant palate with with apricot aromas and running through nose and lovely flavour brightness and luscious, pineapple-like palate. 3-5 $17 intensity. $35 flavours. $25Rascals Prayer Hilltops Moppity Vineyards Hilltops STAR RATINGS Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHHNose not giving too much away Quite peppery on the nose, and Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofbut it’s fragrant, with a fair whack soft and simple in the mouth, excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.of oak. Rich and generous in with lovely ripe, sweet fruit All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industrythe mouth. Great palate texture flavours almost resembling a professionals and are compared in peerand abundant bright, sweet fruit. Cherry Ripe bar. $19.95 classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, 3-5 $13.95 a major mail-order business.Prince Hill Acrobat CD Cellar door price.Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 CDO Cellar door only.Lovely nose smelling of sweet SO Sold out.damson plums and showing $N/A Price not available at time of printing.a slight leathery edge. Lovelyfresh berry fruit flavours with  Contact information pg 158.fine tannic firmness and a nicetouch of spice. $15 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 123

132 TASTED71 AWARDEDMERLOT & BORDEAUX VARIETALSDespite its reputation as a blender, some of the world’s highest- Gapsted Winespriced reds are merlots. Here we see the variety on its own and Limited Releaseas a blender. You get to choose the best from either category, on Alpine Valleysboth quality and price. Also, a smattering of interesting Bordeaux Malbec 2006 HHHblend varietals to add spice! Rose petal bouquet with a complex aged caramel character. Silky-smooth and flavoursome palate. $27PETIT VERDOT Jester Hill Wines De Bortoli Bleasdale Second CABERNET Touchstone Granite Deen Vat 4 Petit Innings Langhorne FRANC11 TASTED Belt Petit Verdot Verdot 2007 HHH Creek Malbec & BLENDS7 AWARDED 2008 HHH Simple dark berry nose 2008 HHHH Quite a jammy nose and and soft, well-balanced Vibrant purple wine 7 TASTEDSolid but not spectacular full, fleshy palate with nice palate. Not very complex with a spicy floral nose 3 AWARDEDclass. Many were too complexity of flavours and but good drinking. $12.90 showing forest floor-liketannic. “You need to be tight finish. $25 notes. Full, flavoursome Very small, polarisedgentle with this variety,” Tassell Park Wines Nelwood Red Mud palate that’s soft in the group. The judgessaid one judge. “The Private Bin Margaret A Journey in Time mouth and has slight were looking for morefruit drops away quickly, River Petit Verdot Signature Series porty characters. $15 aromatics and freshness.leaving a muscular 2008 HHH South Australia Petit Bremertonbackbone - it doesn’t Lifted vanillin oak Verdot 2006 HHH Langhorne Creek Jed Wines Limitedneed extra tannins.” bouquet, with good Big, warm, old-fashioned Malbec 2008 HHH1/2 Release Argentina varietal fruit hit on the style with silky-smooth Red berry nose and Cabernet FrancTrentham Estate simple palate. $38 integration of oak, fruit interesting long, spicy/ 2006 HHHHPetit Verdot and alcohol. $35 earthy palate with Big, rich, vibrant2008 HHH a big, grippy tannic varietal that has goodDelicate rose petal MALBEC backbone. $24 fruit weight and softaromas with some oak. Coopers Creek supporting tanninWell-balanced, medium- 9 TASTED Select Vineyards structure. Long, balancedweight palate with good 6 AWARDED Huapai The Clays and slightly warming infruit. $16 Malbec 2008 HHH the mouth. $45 “Interesting class with Hints of pine needles onGeddes Wines nice spice characters the fruity nose and an Sileni The PacemakerSeldom Inn McLaren and freshness a abundance of savoury Hawke’s BayVale Petit Verdot feature”, commented fruit flavours. $25 Cabernet Franc2008 HHH one judge. “Oak can Newton Forrest 2008 HHHOak covers the fruit overpower this variety”. Gimblett Gravels Well-made wine withnose and tends to Hawkes Bay Malbec lovely red berry, allspicedominate the palate at The Growers’ Reward 2006 HHH and violet elements andthe moment. Needs Limited Release Florals and spices on the some licorice notes. $35time. $22 Margaret River nose and a big tannic Malbec 2004 HHHH palate with a good varietal Louee RylstoneGemtree Vineyards Lovely aromas of flavour profile. $35 Cabernet FrancThe Phantom allspice and violets 2006 HHHMcLaren Vale Petit with pleasant aged Super-fragrant red berryVerdot 2008 HHH complexity. Palate full, nose and pleasantGood rich, ripe fruit rich and flavoursome redcurrant/cranberrycharacters with and tasting of ripe flavours. Nice dryingsupportive oak. Quite raspberries. $25 finish. $20complex, balanced andlong. $30124 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

varietal tastingMERLOT Esk Valley Glazebrook 040ºS Villa Maria Private Aldi StoresBLENDS Reserve Hawkes 177ºE Hawkes Bay Bin Hawkes Bay Claire Creek SEA Bay Merlot Malbec Merlot Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH24 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2008 HHH Soft, flavoursome, spicy13 AWARDED 2005 HHHH Lovely aged, seamlessly Attractive raspberry fruit fruit cake style. Good“There are two distinct Lightweight, savoury integrated wine with intensity nicely integrated soft tannin structure andstyles here: one style. Subtle leafy/ mulberry-like fruit with the oak. Well- acid to balance. $5.99alcoholic and tannin- cigar box and cedar-like showing a greenish tinge balanced considering thebased, the other savoury characters with a slight and grippy tannins. $27 year. $20.99 MERLOTwith an acid water medicinal note. Good Esk Valley Vineyard $15 - $20finish.” Vintage 2008 drinking now. $49.99 Selection Gimblett Soho Revolverwas difficult for merlot Gravels Merlot Waiheke Island 24 TASTEDin South Australia and Sileni The Plains Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet 9 AWARDEDNew Zealand. Cooler Hawke’s Bay Merlot Malbec 2007 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Malbecregions from other Cabernet Franc Warm, rich, fleshy 2008 HHH Lots of cooked fruit orstates performed better. 2008 HHHH wine with fruit that has Well-structured, balanced porty wines from 2008. Long, velvety, deep retained its brightness. wine with rich plum and Some are phenolic greenDi Giorgio purple wine that’s quite Developing some nice cherry fruit and warming but still alcoholic ripe.Family Emporio simple but has seamless complexity. $29.99 alcohol. $48 Overall disappointing.Coonawarra Merlot fruit/oak integration CJ Pask Declaration However, with a rushCabernet Franc and a lovely soft tannin Hawkes Bay Merlot Coopers Creek of fruit coming at theCabernet Sauvignon structure. $35 Malbec Cabernet Four Daughters same time, merlot could2005 HHHH McKellar Ridge 2007 HHH1/2 Hawkes Bay Red have been the ‘sacrificialAged caramelised Canberra District Aged, developed, cigar Blend 2006 HHH lamb’ in the fermentingcharacters mingle with Merlot Cabernet box characters on the Tad jammy on the nose. priority list.plums and coffee on Franc 2008 HHH1/2 nose and a mature, Palate has simple fruitthe nose. Complex dark Delightful raspberry complex palate that’s flavours with balancingchocolaty palate and soft fruit with a slight green beautifully soft in the tannin structure. $17tannin structure. Drink character. Developing mouth. $50now. $24.99 nice complexity. Good Beckett’s Flat MERLOT acid structure. $28 Belizar’s Reserve UNDER $15 Margaret River Justinian 11 TASTED 2004 HHH1/2 2 AWARDED Big, chocolaty nose and grippy tannic palate with Difficult category, with good length of complex, some replacing fruit developing caramelly flavour with residual flavours. $35 sugar or over extracted Sacred Hill to get more flavour. Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet 2009 HHH Hardys Nottage Hill Far too young - needs SEA Merlot time. Sweet berry 2008 HHH fruit on both nose and Slightly warm, slightly palate. Grainy tannin extracted soft, structure. $20.90 flavoursome wine Pegasus Bay with good level of Maestro Merlot complexity. $11 Malbec 2006 HHH Syrupy black wine with an oaky nose and huge, fruit-driven palate with an oak tannin finish. $46.95 JUDGES Joanne Irvine Simon Parker Grant Burge Winemaker, Irvine Senior winemaker and Propriator of Grant Wines and Winewise winery manager with Burge Wines. One of consultancy. 2006 Haselgrove Wines. A the patriarchs of the International Red Kiwi, born in Gisborne, wine industry, with 41 Winemaker of the Year he has also been a vintages under his belt. at the International “flying winemaker” Winner of most major Wine Challenge and in France for two wine trophies on the Barossa Winemaker of vintages. Previous Australian wine circuit, the Year 2009. Judge positions were at including Winestate at the Barossa and Pirramimma and shiraz award at the Wine Riverland wine shows. Buronga Hill wineries. of the Year Awards. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 125

M E R L OT & B O R D E AU X VA R I E TA L SRose Hill Estate Truffle Hill Yilgarnia Denmark Guichen Bay MERLOT $25+Merlot 2008 HHHH1/2 Pemberton Merlot Merlot 2007 HHHH Vineyards MountComplex plum and cigar 2008 HHH Deep crimson wine with Benson Merlot 27 TASTEDbox bouquet with nice Coffee aromas with attractive complexity on 2007 HHH1/2 19 AWARDEDsmoky notes. Excellent a perfumed lift. Big, the nose exhibiting subtle Deep crimson, velvety Certainly higher resultsacid balance to the rich, full, well-structured underlying fruit, with wine with complex here but with a price tospicy fruit flavours. palate with jammy/oaky more complexity on the aromas and long, pay. “To make better“Tastes like a plum flavours. $19.99 flavoursome palate. $24 smooth flavours with a merlot, winemakerscake,” suggested one Griffin Adelaide lingering finish. $20 should spend 90 perjudge. Oaky finish. $18.20 Trentham Estate Hills Merlot Claymore Wines cent of their time in theDe Bortoli Merlot 2007 HHH 2006 HHHH London Calling vineyard,” suggested oneHunter Valley Merlot Caramelly aged Great complexity from Clare Valley Merlot judge. “It’s not shiraz!”2007 HHH1/2 characters on the nose, the integration of some 2008 HHH A few here suffered fromDeep crimson wine with followed by a well- excellent oak, varietal Excellent red berry fruits being overripe.aged, leathery aromas and integrated palate with fruit and acidity. Warm and soft, smooth tanninsvery flavoursome, silky good acid spine. $16 and tannic in the mouth, create a simple but very Saddler’s Creekpalate. Has a few more with oak tending to drinkable wine. $20 Reserve Hunteryears in it yet. $19.50 Handpicked dominate. $22 Dowie Doole Valley MerlotKrondorf Barossa Dominique Portet Harrington Glen McLaren Vale Merlot 2007 HHHH1/2Valley Merlot Selection Yarra Estate Granite Belt 2008 HHH Soft, aged earthy/2009 HHH Valley Merlot Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Earthy notes on the chocolaty wine.Jammy nose with some 2007 HHH Oaky/herbal aromas and nose and quite herbal/ Lovely spicy lift to thecomplexity. Pleasant Quite a complex, lifted powerful fruit flavours greenish characters truffle-like nose andblack fruit palate with plum bouquet and with soft tannins and on the palate. Some good palate length andresidual sweetness on elegant palate with lovely quite a hot finish. Very complexity. $22 structure with perfectlythe finish. $19.99 CM velvety texture. $18 stylish. $20 Grant Burge integrated flavours andBeresford Highwood Climbing Orange Hillcot Barossa acid balance. $42Langhorne Creek Rex Watson Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Merlot 2008 HHH The Growers’ RewardMerlot 2008 HHH Coonawarra Merlot Slightly porty on the Lots of fruit complexity Limited ReleaseComplex raspberry 2007 HHH nose, with some classy on the nose. Palate high Margaret River Merlotfruit balanced by soft Quite herbal on the oak aromatics. Ripe in tannins and acid that 2004 HHHH1/2tannins and well- nose. Lightweight palate fruit flavours balanced overpower the fruit. Beautifully aged winehandled oak. $15.99 with nice balance of by a high level of Time! $22 with enticing blackcurrant/Windowrie The Mill acid, tannin and residual acidity. $21.99 CJ Pask Gimblett mulberry/tobacco aromas.Central Ranges sugar. $18.95 Road Hawkes Bay Silky-smooth in theMerlot 2008 HHH Merlot 2007 HHH mouth, with seamlessEnticing strawberry/ MERLOT Complexity of plum and integration of fruit/spicycherry aromas and $20 - $25 cinnamon aromas with oak flavours. $25warm, rich, lip-smacking, nice earthiness. Full-chocolaty palate. $16.99 19 TASTED flavoured, silky-smooth 12 AWARDED palate. $20 Griffin Adelaide Hills Consistent group with Merlot 2007 HHH more to like here overall. Spicy tobacco bouquet The better wines did and rich, smooth, oaky not exhibit green or palate underscored by porty characters. flavoursome fruit. $20 Bushmere Estate STAR RATINGS  Gisborne Merlot 2006 HHHThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Complex wine at theexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. greener end of theAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry spectrum. Nice balanceprofessionals and are compared in peer of oak/tannin. Softclasses by three judges. mouthfeel. $22CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Granite Range Estatea major mail-order business. Silent Range EstateCD Cellar door price. Merlot 2006 HHHCDO Cellar door only. Silky-smooth, complexSO Sold out. wine with a hot, prickly$N/A Price not available at time of printing. finish. Good for a 2006 wine. $22 Contact information pg 158. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).126 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

varietal tastingLeconfield Burk Salter Hugh Hamilton Chalice Bridge Newton ForrestCoonawarra Merlot Moorunde Reserve The Ratbag Margaret River Merlot 2007 HHH2008 HHHH Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Merlot 2007 HHH Aromatic cherry noseDistinct rhubarb and Quite pungent on the Merlot 2008 HHH Subtle tobacco leaf/oak with a hint of mint, andplum cake aromas. nose - lots of oak. Palate Lifted, spicy nose and aromas and good, full- a warm oak/raspberryRipe and smooth in the has lovely dark berry palate full of long, flavoured palate. Just palate. $30mouth. Palate fresh fruits, tannin softness ripe, juicy flavours; needs more time in thewith flavour. Good and acid balance. $28 some complexity bottle. $25.95 Gapsted Ballerinaoak structure and Tamburlaine developing. $24.50 Cape Naturaliste Canopy Southcomplexity. $24.95 Reserve Orange Cockfighter’s Ghost Vineyard The Australia King ValleyThe Growers’ Reward Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Merlot Westerly Paddock Merlot 2005 HHHLimited Release Oak dominates the nose 2008 HHH Margaret River Mulberries and pencilMargaret River at the moment and the Blackcurrant aromas Merlot 2007 HHH shavings on the nose.Merlot 2008 HHHH acidity overpowers the with attractive aged Slightly dusty/musty Quite a tannic palateSmells of plums and fruit flavours. Give it edge. Good length and bouquet and developing, with fruit complexity totobacco with some another 3-5 years! $32 weight of fruit on the chocolaty palate with carry it. $27vegetative notes. Long, Woodside Valley palate. $24.95 a rich concentration ofsavoury palate with Estate Bissy Sileni The Triangle flavours. $28 Grant Burgeexcellent structure and Margaret River Hawke’s Bay Merlot Geoff Merrill Ethel Nancybalance. $25 Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 2008 HHH Wickham Park Reserve BarossaCJ Pask Declaration Aged, complex Nose has stewed rhubarb McLaren Vale Merlot Merlot 2005 HHHHawkes Bay Merlot and savoury wine. characters. Hot in the 2006 HHH Tobacco and herbs2007 HHHH Blackcurrant, black mouth - lots of oak. Good Complex, developed wine mingle on the nose. VeryVery elegant wine with pepper and spices on fruit underneath. $35 with some nice varietal complex palate; rich anda complex, oaky nose the nose and same for Fox Creek Reserve fruit under the oak. Still full and flavoursome. $30and long, flavoursome the palate. $50 McLaren Vale Merlot good drinking. $25palate. Good length of 2008 HHH Nocton Park Coalripe fruit matched with Big, rich, complex wine River Valley Tasmaniatannins to balance. $50 brimming over with dark Merlot 2007 HHH berries and soft oak that Fragrant allspice aromas has a spicy lift. $40.50 and an unusual musky flavour profile. Good fruit retention. 5+ $25 wines of distinction “Peter, what’s the best wine you’ve ever made?” AND THE TRUE INNOVATOR’S ANSWER:- ‘I HAVEN’T MADE MY BEST WINE YET?” DISTRIBUTORS Melbourne - Westwood Wine Agencies Ph: 03 9686 9125 Tasmania - David Johnstone & Associates Ph: 03 6234 9999 Sydney - Australian Partners in Wine Ph: 02 96015896 To see full list of international distributors go to www.denniswines.com.au Cellar DoorKangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, follow the signs from Town Square. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 12noon-5pm phone (08) 8323 8665 fax (08) 8323 9121 email [email protected] website & orders www.denniswines.com.au May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 127

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINADELAIDE HILLSGO CASUAL OR UP-MARKETTHE REVAMPED Stirling Hotel is one of themost popular hangouts for Adelaide Hillslocals, with several bars and two excellentdining options: the casual bistro and thefine-dining Mallee Grill. The Bistro is openseven days a week for lunch and dinnerand has an al fresco area for those whowish to watch the passing parade. The restaurant takes its name from thewood-fired Mallee Grill used to create manyof the dishes, and the menu features starterslike kaffir lime and lemongrass-marinated gulf ALL HAPPENING Bistro 25 and Cafe Casalinga are all inprawn salad with wakami, blackened chilli, AT HAHNDORF downtown Hahndorf, where you’ll also findtatsoi, green mango and coriander with a two country-style pubs serving meals withfresh lime, sesame and palm sugar dressing, HAHNDORF, which has a population of a Germanic theme: the Hahndorf Inn andand fried blue swimmer crab tortellini with around 2000, is the focal point of tourism The German Arms. Think a massive pickledmasterstock consomme, coriander salad in the Adelaide Hills, with several wineries pork hock or schnitzel at the Hahndorfand chilli lime sambal. Mains include soy and and cellar doors within a few kilometres Inn, or a giant German hotdog or range ofginger-marinated duck breast, caramelised of the town. Originally settled in 1839 by steaks with several German beers on tapand served with pickled sun-dried cherries, Lutheran migrants from what was then at The German Arms.chargrilled radicchio, bok choy and coconut Prussia, it is Australia’s oldest Germaninfused sticky black rice and a range of settlement. During World War I the name LONG LUNCH IN THE LANEgrills, including the 450g veal rib eye with was changed to Ambleside because ofshoestring fries, mustard and horseradish anti-German sentiment, but the Hahndorf AWARD-WINNING The Lane is a vineyardrelish and red wine glaze. name was reinstituted in the 1930s. restaurant/cellar door that offers sweeping views, excellent wines and some superb The Mallee Grill is open from Wednesday The main street, lined with elm and Mod Oz cuisine that ranks with the bestto Saturday for dinner, and on Friday plane trees and many original brick winery restaurant food in the country.and Sunday for lunch. Bookings are and timber cottages, is dotted with Colourful owner John Edwards boasts thatrecommended. The Stirling also recently restaurants, cafes, providores, butchers lunch is served “all day, every day” andunveiled new upmarket accommodation and smokehouses, including recent there is twilight dining during the summerwith extremely comfortable rooms. Phone newcomer Harris Smokehouse (www. months. Meals are served in three sizes:(08) 8339 2345. www.stirlinghotel.com.au. harrissmokehouse.com.au), which has taste, entree and main, making sharing a tastings and sales of smoked seafood that range of dishes an excellent option. is filleted and smoked on-site. Visitors can keep it simple by sampling a Udder Delights (www.udderdelights.com. charcuterie plate of terrine, cured meats and au) features tastings of its gourmet cheeses, pickled onions or marinated white anchovies which are now sold nationally, and also with shallots, parsley and sourdough bread, holds cheesemaking classes. Also check or go the whole hog with dishes like roasted out Max Noske and Sons Country Meats quail wrapped in prosciutto with baby and the eclectic Taste In Hahndorf, a terrific fennel and fine herbs; confit duck leg place from which to source a range of local with sour cherries or maybe King George gourmet goodies, including German-style whiting with scallop ceviche and sauce smallgoods, mustards, pickles and chutneys. vierge. Ravenswood Lane and The Lane wines are suggested to match each dish. The Mustard Seed, which serves dishes Phone (08) 8388 1250; www.thelane.com.au. from India and Burma (maybe Bengal fish kalia or Burmese king prawns), the relaxed128 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

travelbriefsTRAILS OF TREATS LOFTY LUXURY At Tilbrook Estate in Lobethal, the cellar door is actually part of the working winery.THE ADELAIDE Hills are chock-a- GRAND Mercure Mount Lofty House Walk across the road to Cloudbreakblock with great produce such as fresh is one of the best places to stay in and sparkling wines can be manuallyfruit and vegetables, artisan bakeries, the Adelaide Hills. Set in a landmark disgorged for you. Nearby is the Lobethalcheese and dairy, venison, beef and building with spectacular views of the Bierhaus, where local brews can besmallgoods, specialty chocolates, Piccadilly Valley and its vineyards, the enjoyed with hearty meals, and thehomemade dips, jams and marinades, elegant country house-style boutique Adelaide Hills Market - an emporium-stylenative herbs and honey. hotel is set in English-style gardens indoor market in an old woollen mill that’s and has just 29 rooms. There’s a lovely open Friday to Sunday. Several gourmet trails offer an insight pool area - the ideal spot to relax afterinto the best of the region, including a hard day of tasting - along with a The Hills Market Kitchen, a key elementCheese Please, which features Udder floodlit tennis court. Several of the very of the market, hosts regular luncheonsDelights and Woodside Cheese Wrights; with star chefs, starting this month with Justin Markos, head chef at Utopia @ Waterfall Gully. Further lunches will follow. Phone (08) 8389 5615 or email [email protected] Wine, which visits The Lane comfortable rooms have spa baths and STRENGTH IN NUMBERSand Hahndorf Hill Winery; Sublime verandahs and the on-site PiccadillyChocolate, which highlights Chocolate restaurant has a fine reputation, with WORK has finally been completed on@ No.5 and Cocolat Balhannah; and chef Craig Graves cooking dishes like the Adelaide Hills’ newest wine tastingChocoVino tastings at Hahndorf Hill. carpaccio of Hanhdorf venison with destination - The Gatehouse at Glen Ewin a salad of artichokes, asparagus and Estate. The facility incorporates a purpose- Chocolate @ No.5 is in a delightful Swiss brown mushrooms, and seafood built cellar door representing a selection1850s cottage at Hahndorf and sells a pie in puff pastry. Phone (08) 8339 6777; of smaller-production wineries from thewide range of sweet treats, including a www.mtloftyhouse.com.au. Adelaide Hills region, none of which havewonderfully rich iced chocolate drink full-time cellar doors of their own; most haveand handmade chocolates. Cocolat in SEEK OUT THE SMALL GEMS no tasting facilities at all.Balhannah (which now also has severalAdelaide outlets) and Melba’s Chocolate WHILE the Adelaide Hills are home to big The inaugural line-up comprises BasketFactory in Woodside are also popular names like Ashton Hills, Shaw & Smith, Range Wine, Bowe Lees Wines, Griffinwith visitors. Petaluma, Bird In Hand and Nepenthe, Wines, Hermitage Premium Wines, Kanta it is worth getting off the beaten track to Wines, Leabrook Estate, Parish Hill Wines, The Hills Short Wine and Food Trail explore some of the boutique cellar doors Protero Wines, Riposte Wines, Romneyincludes 12 wine, food and beer producers that offer a very different experience. Park Wines, Setanta Wines, The Pawnand is arranged as a trail starting in Among these are Golding at Lenswood, Wine Company, Tomich Wines and WicksWoodside and finishing in Gumeracha. All which is creating a sculpture walk, and JL, Estate, and allows for over 60 offeringsproducers are within 15 minutes’ drive of a cellar door/art gallery. including 17 different single-varietal wineseach other. For details phone (08) 8389 from award-winning producers.5318 or pick up a brochure locally. The Gatehouse at Glen Ewin Estate has been created to provide the opportunity to sample some of the hidden highlights of the Hills and to gain an understanding of arguably the most diverse wine region in the state - all under one roof. See www.the-gatehouse.com.au. Left: Cocolat Balhannah. Right: Grand Mercure Mt Lofty House pool. Opposite page: Stirling Hotel accommodation & ensuite. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 129

ADELAIDE HILLS138 TASTED45 AWARDEDADELAIDE HILLSThere’s gold in “them thar hills”, but sometimes you have Lobethal Road Adelaide Nepenthe Adelaide Hillsto look to find it. In a viticulturally challenging region, the Hills Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris 2009 HHHbest here can reach great heights but, not surprisingly, 2009 HHH Interesting wine with delicatethere can also be a fallout in difficult vintages. Here we Hints of fresh tropical fruits floral bouquet - hints of stone-source the best of the varieties for you to enjoy. on the nose follow through fruits - and an almost perfumed onto the long, mouthwatering palate. $22SPARKLING SAUVIGNON palate. $18 BLANC RIESLING8 TASTED Nepenthe Adelaide Hills3 AWARDED 21 TASTED Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH 5 TASTEDNice balance of yeast complexity 6 AWARDED Racy Kiwi style with green fruit 1 AWARDEDand freshness with the whites. lift to the nose and intensely Just one good example, The ‘09 vintage was not a good flavoured palate. Needs food. $19 while the others showedStarvedog Lane one for bringing out varietal early development.Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir characters, so there were lots Alta by Sarah FletcherChardonnay 2003 HHHHH of neutral wines here. There Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Mayhem & Co Old SchoolElegant wine showing were a few nice examples but Blanc 2009 HHH Adelaide Hills Rieslingexcellent age complexity. Long they were more in the lighter Lively, lemony bouquet and 2009 HHHHand creamy in the mouth, with flavours spectrum. elegant lime juice flavours with Smells of citrus blossomsgreat acid structure and tasting a mouthwatering finish. $19.95 and has a flavoursome palateof lemon sorbet. Very classy that’s intense with minerallynumber. $29 Starvedog Lane Adelaide lime characters and great acid Hills Sauvignon Blanc backbone support. $17.99Wolf Blass Gold Label Wirra Wirra Hiding 2008 HHHAdelaide Hills Pinot Noir Champion Adelaide Hills Good food wine, with intense VIOGNIERChardonnay 2007 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc and complex aromas andDeveloped toasty aromas 2009 HHHH1/2 mouthwatering gooseberry 4 TASTEDand great palate length with Really intense passionfruit flavours. $26 3 AWARDEDpersistent creamy flavours. aromas mingling with kiwi fruit Mixture of styles, with someWell-balanced and complex and asparagus-like characters. OTHER WHITE nice flavours coming through,wine with a fine bead. $24.99 Similar palate, with lovely VARIETALS ranging from fresh and fine toBird in Hand Joy Adelaide depth of flavours and lively & BLENDS richer and riper.Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir acidity. $222007 HHH Wicks Estate Adelaide Hills 6 TASTEDCrisp, fine wine with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH 0 AWARDEDyeasty complexity and slightly Complex potpourri-likesweet/sour flavours. $60 bouquet and fresh, lively, PINOT GRIGIO sweaty/stewed apple palate. /PINOT GRIS Refreshing finish. $16.99 8 TASTED 2 AWARDED These two were good examples of the different styles of grigio and gris. Beelgara Black Label Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2009 HHH Nose showing slightly developed peach aromas, followed by a pretty stone-fruit palate. $17.99130 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingFox Gordon Abby Wolf Blass Gold Label Penfolds Thomas Nepenthe The GoodAdelaide Hills Viognier Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Hyland Adelaide Hills Doctor Adelaide Hills2009 HHHH 2008 HHHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHIntense, ripe apricot aromas and Long, fine, elegant Creamy, oak-driven nose and Complex, gamey style: long anda long, luscious palate that’s chardonnay with aromas that very flavoursome oak/malo- savoury and still showing goodfresh and lively with gentle are a subtle blend of oak, dominant palate with some plum fruit freshness, with niceapricot flavours and perfectly lemon and blossoms. Tight nice fruit below. $20.99 juicy tannins on the finish. $38balanced acidity. $19.95 and lemony/melon-like in theMayhem & Co Very mouth, with excellent oak/ Hahndorf Hill Winery Norton Summit VineyardsAdelaide Hills Viognier acid balance. $24.99 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Estate Adelaide Hills2009 HHH Richmond Grove Limited 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH“Slippery” style with delicate Release Adelaide Hills Very pretty wine that’s a Big, gamey wine with a veryapricot aromas and a long, fleshy Vineyard Chardonnay beautifully delicate harmony pungent, meaty bouquet andpalate showing passionfruit 2008 HHHH of grapefruit, white chocolate, the full pinot flavour spectrumdevelopment. $17.99 Fresh, toasty, buttery aromas peaches and lemons. $28 across the entire palate. “Has and long, complex, savoury ‘pinocity’,” suggested oneProtero Gumeracha flavours with lingering Cockfighter’s Ghost judge! $30Adelaide Hills Viognier creaminess. Rich, fine and a Premium Reserve Mayhem & Co Newcomer2007 HHH little funky. $17.99 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Pinot NoirComplex, honeyed nose Starvedog Lane 2008 HHH 2009 HHHand intense, honeyed herbal Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Big, complex and slightly meaty Meaty, gamey, black cherry styleflavours with lovely buttery 2008 HHHH wine with oaky/lemon nose and with complex oak balancingtexture. $29 Complex, lees-influenced nutty/peachy palate. $39.99 plump pinot fruit. $24.99 aromas leading to a long, soft 5 Blind Mice La PetiteCHARDONNAY palate with oak flavours sitting ROSE Souris Adelaide Hills on top of the lemony varietal Pinot Noir 2008 HHH28 TASTED fruit. $29 6 TASTED Aromas of stewed cherries9 AWARDED Bird in Hand Nest Egg 0 AWARDED and toasty oak. Juicy, savourySome excellent examples of the Adelaide Hills Chardonnay palate with good varietalvariety here, once again showing 2008 HHHH PINOT NOIR expression. $25this variety is well suited to the Lemon essence-like aromasHills region. The judges were with delicate floral notes. 14 TASTEDpleased with the winemakers’ Lovely gentle palate, very juicy 4 AWARDEDoak and malolactic handling. in the mouth, with a long, lingering, fresh oaky finish. $60 This region can produce good Penfolds Reserve pinot now, as seen by the quality Bin 08A Adelaide Hills of the awarded wines here. Chardonnay 2008 HHHH The warm ‘08 vintage was a Complex, oak-driven nose problem one, with physiological and long, fresh, creamy ripening not matching the higher palate with savoury textures alcohol levels. that, according to one judge, “makes you hungry”. $89.99 Wolf Blass White Label Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2007 HHH1/2 Concentrated lemon pith aromas and lip-smacking flavours of white peaches with good length of spicy oak. $39.99 JUDGESLouisa Rose Leigh Ratzmer Mark ConroyChief winemaker for Winemaker for the Hills’ Sales and MarketingYalumba Wines with region Wicks Estate manager for Pirramimmaseventeen vintages Wines. Has completed ten Wines. Over 30 yearscompleted. Regular vintages in the Adelaide in the wine industrysenior judge on the Hills, Barossa and Austria. including experience atcapital city wine show Associate judge at Adelaide Krondorf, Mildara, Remycircuit, including chair Hills and National Cool & Mildara Blass, Grantof the Royal Perth Climate wine shows. Burge and Serafino. WineWine Show in 2009. International panelist at panelist judge with his the 2003 Kamptal (Austria) previous wineries. Pinot Noir forum. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 131

ADELAIDE HILLSOTHER RED MERLOT SHIRAZ & BLENDS Paracombe Adelaide HillsVARIETALS Shiraz Viognier 2007 HHH& BLENDS 5 TASTED 16 TASTED “A very dense and serious 1 AWARDED 9 AWARDED wine,” said one judge. Has ripe8 TASTED mulberries, spicy plums and4 AWARDED The judges thought that although Surprise surprise! This was the subtle oak. $21Good results for tempranillo only one wine was awarded here strongest class in the tasting - Lobethal Roadand cabernet franc. “Great the variety is worth persevering possibly not what was expected Bacchant Adelaide Hillspotential for these varieties in with in the Hills region. from this cool climate region. Shiraz 2007 HHHthis region,” said one judge. “These wines had ripeness with Brooding, inky wine with loadsNepenthe Adelaide Hills Bird in Hand Adelaide flesh and generosity but also of forest fruit characters andTempranillo 2008 HHHH Hills Merlot 2007 HHH vibrancy and cool ‘climateness’,” hints of licorice. Plenty ofVibrant aromas of blueberries Good depth of varietal fruit noted one judge. acidity. $42and tomato leaves and a flavours, some well-handled Bird in Handlovely juicy blood plum and tannins and subtle oak to Bird in Hand Adelaide Nest Egg Adelaide Hillspassionfruit palate with some balance. $30 Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHgreat tannin interaction. $25 Delightfully fragrant wine, quite Big style - lots of oak. Smells of CABERNET warm, dense and brooding, honeycomb with rich raspberryParacombe Adelaide Hills SAUVIGNON with an abundance of black and plum flavours. $75Cabernet Franc 2007 HHHH & BLENDS cherries and minty cassisLovely perfumed nose - smells characters nicely balanced by SWEETof violets. Beautifully balanced 7 TASTED some subtle oak. $30 & FORTIFIEDpalate with classy fruit, great 1 AWARDEDoak and good level of acidity. Wolf Blass Gold Label 2 TASTEDLots happening. $27 One borderline recommendation Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2 AWARDEDParacombe Adelaide Hills showing potential. A number of Viognier 2008 HHHHThe Reuben 2006 HHH wines in this group just needed Vibrant, juicy wine. Quite a d’Arenberg The NobleSmells of redcurrants with a touch more balance to get perfumed nose of violets and Prankster Adelaide Hillshints of menthol. Palate dense them over the line. anise and a rich, ripe, jammy Chardonnay Semillonand flavoursome, with more of fruit palate with long, velvety 2008 (375ml) HHHHthe redcurrants. $21 tannins. $24.99 Gorgeous, luscious andProtero Gumeracha lingering ‘sticky’. BeautifulAdelaide Hills Red Blend Deviation Road balance of honeycomb2005 HHH Reserve Adelaide Hills sweetness with apricots andAttractive, simple style with Shiraz 2008 HHHH touches of lavender. $20ripe, juicy berry fruits and subtle Dense, brooding style with the Anvers Adelaide Hillsoak. Still high in acid. $25 savoury oak tending to dominate Fortified Shiraz 2007 the dark varietal fruit - for now. (375ml) HHH Very flavoursome. $28.50 Nutty/licorice bouquet and lots of luscious red jube flavours on Starvedog Lane the creamy-sweet palate. $25 Adelaide Hills Shiraz Viognier 2007 HHH1/2 Solid cedary oak and a lovely shiraz fruit backbone, with the viognier adding some overall sweetness. $26 Paracombe Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Sound wine with attractive rich varietal fruit and subtle cedary oak to balance. Hints of mint and eucalypt. $21 Fernhill Estate Wicks Estate Adelaide Adelaide Hills Cabernet Hills Shiraz 2008 HHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH Aromas of bacon bones Greenish nose and good dose and plum jam. Simple but of fresh cassis fruit, chocolate flavoursome palate with an and tobacco flavours. $16 astringent finish. $19.99132 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide Hills Uber coolWinner - Best Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio in Australia The Penguin Good Australian Wine Awards 2010 Our Pinot Grigio 2009 is crafted in the classic style, so it’s ultra fresh and zingy. Perfect for cooling you down and for accompanying seafood and Asian cuisine.Nick Stock: “A happy discovery of my extensive search for benchmark wines, this super- attractive grigio style delivers plenty ofnectarine and stone fruit aromas, yellow peach, pears and gentle spices.”Trade enquiries - Zenith Wine Agenciest 1300 883056 f (02) 9352 3261e [email protected]

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINTASMANIAVILLAGE WITH BANK ON A COSY STAY $190 matched with wines, along with a moreDELICIOUS CHOICES traditional four and six-course offerings. Wines CYGNET, which boasts of being the Huon by the glass from an excellent list are offeredTHE HUON Valley has several popular Valley’s prettiest town, is also home to a to accompany each course.cellar doors, including Home Hill at lovely boutique bed and breakfast - theRanelagh, Panorama at Glazier’s Bay Old Bank B&B. Set on the main street, the The menu changes regularly but dishesand Hartzview at Nicholls Rivulet. The former landmark bank building constructed could include slow-cooked squid with citruslovely village of Cygnet, population in 1909 has three newly refurbished queen- vinaigrette and saganaki; Wessex saddlebackaround 800 and just 40 minutes south sized bedrooms, all with private bathrooms. pork shoulder mornay with egg yolk pastaof Hobart, is a lovely spot from which Bedrooms are equipped with TV, DVD, and sweet corn puree; cured ox tongueto explore the Huon’s many attractions Austar and a laptop PC with free broadband with candied figs and parsley emulsion; orand is something of a gourmet hot spot internet access, and writing desks. Towelling dry-aged Longford eye fillet with pickled redin its own right. robes and slippers are provided. cabbage and a mushroom pithivier. Piccalilly is open for dinner only. Phone (03) 6224 9900; Cygnet is home to the hugely popular Guests are offered complimentary tea and www.piccalilly.com.au.Red Velvet Lounge, a cafe cum restaurant coffee and a selection of homemade cakesrun by former Peppermint Bay chef Steve and biscuits on arrival. Each room is $250 QUEST FOR COMFORTCumper, a promoter of local produce and a night, including a hearty home-madebaker of his own sourdough bread. “I’m a breakfast with eggs from the owners’ hens HOBART can be a busy city, andpassionate advocate for what this region and locally cured bacon. Phone (03) 6295 accommodation is sometimes at a premiumdoes and I try to weave that produce 0769; www.oldbank.com.au. over weekends. For those to whom position,through the menus into what I believe is a position and position are crucial, theunique taste of Tasmania,” he says. DINING OUTSIDE location of Quest Waterfront Apartments THE SQUARE cannot be bettered. Just back from the The Red Velvet lounge serves excellent waterfront and a five-minute stroll frombreakfasts and lunches and on Friday HOBART has a restaurant to rival the downtown and Salamanca Place, the Questand Saturday nights is transformed into stars of Sydney and Melbourne in the apartments have a range of studio and one-an up-market restaurant serving dishes adventurous Piccalilly, tucked away in the bedroom apartments which are spaciouslike cured Huon salmon with fresh suburb of Battery Point. With its “assiette and well equipped with air-conditioning,Shima wasabi mayonnaise served in a dining”, instead of a menu featuring spa baths and TVs with Austar channels.wasabi leaf; roasted duck with French entrees, mains and desserts, Piccalilly The accommodation is not five-star, but itlentils, baby carrots, mash and red offers savoury and sweet dishes served is comfortable and affordably priced andwine sauce; and slow-roasted Berkshire on small plates so diners can taste seven Brooke Street Pier, the departure point forpork shoulder with soft polenta, garlicky or eight dishes over the night. river cruises, is right across the street, asbeans and crackling. All mains cost is the lively Fish Frenzy fish and chippery,under $30 and the menu changes Chef Iain Todd trained in Melbourne at Mode, a Hobart favourite. Phone (03) 6224 8630;weekly. Phone (03) 6295 0466. St Kilda, and Fenix in Richmond and creates www.questwaterfront.com.au. an eight-course degustation menu for $122 (or Just down the road is the Lotus EatersCafe, which serves dishes, includingvegetarian, which have a huge localfollowing. Soups, tarts and salads arepopular along with a range of home-madecakes and superb baguettes. The curryon offer changes weekly, and house-made pot pies are also hugely popular.Phone (03) 6295 1996. The Black Swan at the Cygnet Art Hotel(dinners Friday-Monday) and the OldSchool House Cafe (lunches only) areother good options for eating locally, andtwo village pubs offer hearty lunches anddinners throughout the week.134 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

travelbriefs$32 MILLION SEA VIEWS Tasmania’s fresh produce and fine cool- bespoke furniture by emerging Tasmanian climate wines, with Hugh Whitehouse, designers. They are characterised byTASMANIA has an iconic new luxury formerly of the two-hat Darley’s at Lilianfels futuristic architecture with translucent glassresort, Saffire at Coles Bay on the in the NSW Blue Mountains, in charge of the and steel cubes that appear suspendedFreycinet Peninsula. Opened in April, kitchens. See www.saffire-freycinet.com.au. on their apex and space-age casingsthe $32 million resort has just 20 suites of metallic silver. The pavilions offerwith water views, high-tech bathrooms COTTAGE WITH THE LOT access to a heated infinity lap pool, saunaand private decks - and it is the ideal and gym, and guests can dine at Thebase from which to explore east coast HISTORIC Deloraine, outside Launceston Source restaurant. In January next year,cellar doors like Freycinet Estate and en route to Cradle Mountain, is a lovely Moorilla will open the $150 million MuseumApsley Gorge. At 140 square metres, part of the world, with several artisan food of Old and New Art (MONA). Phonesome of the suites are larger than mid- producers nearby. Kenya Cottage, a self- (03) 6277 9900; www.moorilla.com.au.size homes and several boast their catering cottage that caters for up to sixown plunge pools. Saffire is Tasmania’sresponse to New Zealand’s luxury lodgesand has views over Great Oyster Bay tothe Hazards, a granite range that risessharply from the peninsula. Despite the resort’s striking architecture,general manager Matt Casey, formerly incharge of Hobart’s acclaimed Henry JonesArt Hotel - which is part of the same group- believes his team’s level of service willbe Saffire’s signature. “For me, Saffire willbe what my colleagues in hospitality andI used to dream of.” Saffire’s luxury will come at a price, people, is a perfect base for exploring. NO PLACE LIKE HOLMhowever. Deluxe suites start at $1250 a The cottage dates back to the 1890s andnight, luxury suites begin at $1400 and is in a quiet location just a five-minute walk IT MAY be a little off the beaten track, butpremium suites $2250. All rates include a from the Meander River and a 30-minute it is worth making the trek to the rustic andday spa treatment, beverages throughout drive from the Tamar Valley wine region. welcoming Holm Oak cellar door in thethe day, some activities, breakfast and There are three bedrooms, a fully-equipped Tamar Valley, just 40km from Launceston.lunch. A degustation dinner with drinks kitchen, lounge room with wood fire, Holm Oak Vineyards is family owned andcosts $150 a person. The Palate restaurant shower/bath, TV, DVD and stereo. Some managed by winemaker Rebecca Wilsonand The Lounge Bar will aim to showcase breakfast provisions are also provided. and viticulturalist Tim Duffy and produces Double rooms start from $120 a night with its wine on site - riesling, sauvignon a two-night minimum, and winter specials blanc, chardonnay, pinot gris, arneis, are available between May and September. pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot Phone 0438 835 939; www.wegallivant. and cabernet franc. The cellar door is com/kenyacottage. open seven days a week from 11am - 5pm from September to May and Wednesday FUTURISTIC PAVILIONS to Sunday from 11am - 4pm from June to August. Phone (03) 6394 7577; THERE are now eight Mona Pavilions at www.holmoakvineyards.com.au. Moorilla Estate winery, outside Hobart overlooking the Derwent River, the original Left & right: Saffire luxury resort &restaurant. four having been refurbished and four more Opposite page: The Old Bank B&B accommodation newly constructed. Each features artwork and entrance hall. from the owner’s private collection and May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 135

TA S M A N I A123 TASTED94 AWARDEDTA SM AN I AAfter a difficult tasting last year, Tasmania has rebounded Jansz Tasmania Vintagewith a vengeance, showcasing some wonderful cool Rose 2006 HHHclimate wines. These are the wines to show your Copper blush to this simpleEuropean friends when they dismiss Australian wines as wine that shows some meatybeing too big or alcoholic (or all the same). savouriness. Nice quaffer. $49.95SPARKLING Bay of Fires Tasmania Clover Hill Pipers Touchwood Coal River Pinot Chardonnay Brut River Tasmania Brut Tasmania Cuvee 1997 HHH15 TASTED NV HHHH1/2 2005 HHHH1/2 Big, broad style with lots12 AWARDED Beautifully fresh, lifted bouquet Nutty, developed, toasty/ of nice age complexity and with aromas reminiscent of buttery aromas with a floral lift, toasty, creamy, oatmeal-likeStrong class, with the results lemons, honeysuckle and apple and complex, developed palate characters. $30showing, again, Tasmania’s pre- cider. “Tastes like a freshly with nicely balanced crispeminent position as Australia’s baked apple pie,” suggested lemon flavours carried by the OTHER WHITEsparkling wine region. Lots of one judge. $33 delicate structure. $44 VARIETALScrisp, fresh and lively sparklings Meadowbank Mardihere, only missing some lees Tasmania Chardonnay Clover Hill Pipers River 3 TASTEDage to rival the French. Pinot Noir 2006 HHHH1/2 Tasmania Blanc de Blancs 2 AWARDED Big, balanced, creamy style 2005 HHHHTamar Ridge TRV offering lovely toasty/yeasty Full-bodied style but still has Bream Creek TasmaniaTasmania Chardonnay bouquet with a nice touch of finesse. Slightly floral lift to the Schonburger 2008 HHHHPinot Noir 2007 HHHHH oak. Beautiful citrus freshness nose and long, elegant flavours Lovely lifted, floral, aromaticVery fresh and lively sparkling on the palate, with some apple- with good mousse and retained bouquet and beautifullywith intense, toasty richness and like characters. $45 freshness. 3-5 $50 textured and flavoursomelovely aged honeyed characters palate showing good level ofdeveloping and mingling with Devil’s Corner acidity. $21apple-like characters. Good level Tasmania Chardonnayof acidity. $28 Pinot Noir NV HHHH Spring Vale Freycinet Long and very elegant wine Coast TasmaniaLake Barrington Estate with excellent balance of fruit GewurztraminerAlexandra Tasmania aromas and flavours and a 2009 HHHChardonnay Pinot Noir suggestion of tinned bean-like Delicate aromas with some2006 HHHHH characters. $19.95 residual sugar obvious on theSimpler, more straightforward palate, but has plenty of acid tostyle with some lovely citrus Jansz Late Disgorged Bay of Fires Tasmania balance it. $28freshness obvious on the nose, Tasmania Premium Cuvee Pinot Chardonnay Rosewhich follows through onto 2002 HHHH1/2 NV HHH PINOT GRIGIO/GRISthe palate, evolving into lovely Burnished gold wine with a Clean, fresh and fruity salmonlemon flavours. $40 lovely ozone/oyster-like lift pink sparkling - very pretty. 8 TASTEDRadenti Tasmania to the nose. Excellent palate Quite a drying finish. $33 8 AWARDEDChardonnay Pinot Noir length with interesting touch2000 HHHHH of soy/seaweed-like characters Jansz Premium Tasmania Most of these were made“An excellent drink,” declared underscoring the citrus Cuvee NV HHH in a gris style, with richer,one judge. Beautifully aged, flavours. $49.95 Herbaceous/herbal lift to the oilier flavours, but the judgescomplex wine with amazingly nose and a palate offering commented that the staterich aromas that lift out of simple, fresh drinking. $24.95 could produce even betterthe glass and are followed by crisp, austere grigio styles.developed, creamy flavours Jansz Premium Tasmania Nevertheless, this was a veryfilling the mouth. $65 Rose NV HHH good result for the varietal. Simple, one-dimensional pale bronze wine with abundant raspberries and plums. $24.95136 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingJosef Chromy Tasmania Devil’s Corner Tasmania Josef Chromy RIESLINGPinot Gris 2009 HHHH1/2 Pinot Grigio 2009 HHH Tasmania SauvignonLovely wine but still a baby Excellent balance and Blanc 2009 HHHH1/2 20 TASTEDthat needs to be cellared for a persistence of nashi pear Excellent example of a Tassie 20 AWARDEDwhile to become really great. aromas and flavours. Good sauvignon blanc. Shows someDelightfully lifted, delicate weight and length. $17.10 restraint for the moment but Extremely strong class.fruity bouquet and perfectly is developing attractive, soft “Tasmanian rieslings need a fewseamless balance of elegant Ghost Rock Vineyard varietal characters with a years of ageing to be at theirflavours. $27 Ol’ Man’s Ghost Tasmania possible hint of oak. $27 best, said one judge. “GenerallySpring Vale Freycinet Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Tamar Ridge they are in the higher acid stylesCoast Tasmania Pinot Gris Lean, crisp style with a delicate, Kayena Vineyard but there’s a trend to Germanic2009 HHHH1/2 perfumed lift to the nose and Tasmania Sauvignon styles with lighter alcohol andVery attractive example of a tight, spicy flavours. $25 Blanc 2009 HHHH residual sugar balance.”true French pinot gris style. True to style, with lovelyLifted, sweet fruit bouquet Iron Pot Bay Tamar Valley weight and persistence of The Wine Societywith a distinct spicy lift and Tasmania Pinot Grigio varietal characters on both Regional Premiumlong, lingering, spicy/fruity 2008 HHH the nose and in the mouth; Selection Tasmaniaflavours across the length of Distinct up-front orange blossom sitting in the tropical end of the Riesling 2009 HHHHHthe palate. $28 fruit characters with hints of spectrum. $19.95 Beautifully lifted, floral bouquet,The Wine Society pears on nose and palate. $23 Bay of Fires Tasmania followed by a tight citrusy/limeRegional Premium Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH palate with excellent flavourSelection Tasmania Pinot SAUVIGNON Quite New Zealand-like in style intensity, underscored by aGris 2009 HHHH BLANC without being over the top with powerful acid backbone. $16.99Fresh and lively pale copper pungent/sweaty characters. $32wine with a good level of fruit 12 TASTED Dalrymple Pipers Riverfleshiness balanced by acid 7 AWARDED Tasmania Sauvignoncrispness producing long, Blanc 2009 HHHlingering flavours. $19.99 “Tasmania is showing good Obvious interesting ginger beerBay of Fires Tasmania varietal characters without character mingling with thePinot Gris 2009 HHH1/2 being over the top,” said tropical varietal fruit. $24.95Flavoursome wine and a good one judge. “Tasmanian fruit Devil’s Cornerexample of style that has can handle a touch of oak,” Tasmania Sauvignona slightly oily texture and a suggested another. This was Blanc 2009 HHHwarming alcohol finish. $32 quite a mixed group of wines. Good balance between fleshy/ tropical varietal fruit and crisp acidity. $17.10 Sugarloaf Ridge Holm Oak Vineyards Waterton Vineyards Tasmania Sauvignon Tasmania Sauvignon Tasmania Riesling Blanc 2009 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2009 HHH 2008 HHHHH Another very good example of Fresh, crisp wine with plenty of Big hit of limes and orange style. Lovely vibrant freshness, attractive musky confectionery blossom on the nose. Very with good weight of tropical fruit aromas and flavours. $25 well structured palate starting fruit characters on nose and to develop some honeyedOrani Tasmania Pinot palate. Silky-smooth in the characters mixing with theGrigio 2008 HHH1/2 mouth. $24 citrus flavours. $23.50Confectionery-sweet fruitaromas with a dash of talcumpowder-like characters whichare echoed on the palate. $N/AGraeme Philips David Johnstone JUDGESFood and wine writer Wine merchant andfor the Hobart Mercury national show judge. Greg Melickand Sunday Tasmanian. Has judged in Melbourne, National Show judge for 20Former chef/restaurateur Hobart, Perth & Hong years. Former chairman andand judge at Tasmanian Kong and is chairman of current director of the Winewine shows. the Tasmanian Derwent Society. Tasmanian Vineyard Valley wine show. owner. Has had extensive wine travel experience to worldwide vineyards. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 137

TA S M A N I ACraigow Tasmania Bay of Fires Tasmania Iron Pot Bay Vividus Holm Oak VineyardsRiesling 2006 HHHHH Riesling 2008 HHHH Tamar Valley Tasmania Tasmania ChardonnayBeautiful example of a perfectly Lovely riesling showing Riesling 2006 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2aged riesling with good level excellent freshness and flavour Developed aromas with an Huge hit of peach-like aromasof toasty/honeyed bottle age and developing some attractive aged riesling flavour profile. on the nose, with the peachydevelopment, but the wine secondary characters adding Drink now. $21 characters following through tostill shows plenty of lively nice complexity. $32 the warm palate. Lovely depthfreshness. $24 Bream Creek Tasmania Orani Tasmania of flavour and complexity. HotWhite Rock Riesling 2008 HHHH Riesling 2005 HHH finish. $20Vineyard Tasmania Inviting, appealing varietal nose Perfectly aged riesling that has Josef ChromyRiesling 2009 HHHHH and good varietal fruit palate retained its lively freshness. Tasmania ChardonnayLifted limes obvious on the showing some residual sugar At its best! $N/A 2008 HHHH1/2nose and showing a thread that’s well matched by the Full-bodied wine with amazingof muscat-like characters. attractive acid. $22 CHARDONNAY depth and length of grapefruit-Fresh, clean and crisp in the Bream Creek VGR like characters with lovelymouth, with seamless fruit/acid Tasmania Riesling 17 TASTED honeycomb-like aged complexitybalance. $22 2008 HHHH 16 AWARDED starting to develop. $30Brook Eden Pipers Very smart, popular commercial Strong, consistent class. Nocton ParkBrook Tasmania Riesling style that offers a seamless “Generally these allowed the fruit Tasmania Chardonnay2009 HHHH1/2 balance between the varietal to do the work, although some 2007 HHHH1/2Comes up smelling of roses! fruit and the crisp acid. $22 were still over-oaked,” said the Attractive stewed apricot fruitThere’s a musky thread in Holm Oak Vineyards judges. “These chardonnays tend characters with hints of figsthere too. Some very attractive Tasmania Riesling to be crisper, mid-weight wines, and buttery toast. Quite sweetvarietal fruit flavours linger on 2008 HHHH rather than the bigger styles of but that is well balanced by theand on. $30 Interesting lime and ginger the mainland.” crisp acidity. $25Freycinet Vineyard beer characters with a nice GlenAyr TolpuddleTasmania Riesling background of sweetness. Bream Creek Tasmania Vineyard Tasmania2009 HHHH1/2 Palate shows good weight and Chardonnay 2008 HHHHH Chardonnay 2006 HHHH1/2Distinct citrus blossom length of fruit. $25 Delightful clean, simple style Nice level of sweet varietal fruitcharacters on the nose and Leo Buring DWK20 with excellent sweetness on sitting in the tropical end of thelovely fleshy fruit flavours Leopold Tasmania the nose and lovely toasty/ spectrum and being carried bydominating the palate, but with Riesling 2007 HHHH creamy palate full of flavour some very well handled oak. $23just the right amount of acid to Nicely balanced wine with and developing pleasant Moorilla Muse Seriesmatch. $25 excellent varietal fruit characters secondary aged characters. $23 Tasmania ChardonnayTamar Ridge Kayena and offering added complexity Meadowbank Grace 2008 HHHHVineyard Tasmania from the lovely aged honeyed/ Elizabeth Tasmania Soft, creamy/toasty agedRiesling 2009 HHHH1/2 kerosene notes. $39.99 Chardonnay 2006 HHHHH chardonnay with seamlessLively floral aromatics lift out Bass Fine Wine Beautifully soft, fully matured integration of varietal fruitthe glass, with more of that Strait Tasmania Riesling and very flavoursome style intensity, creamy malo andfloral intensity running through 2009 HHH that has everything going for it. spicy wood characters. $45the length of the palate and Crisp and fresh, with good Good overall balance and length. Velo Tasmanialingering on the finish. $23.75 varietal fruit showing an attractive Excellent drinking now or has a Chardonnay 2008 HHHHLeo Buring DWL20 musky floral thread. $23 few years’ cellaring left. $41 Interesting apple/honeycombLeopold Tamar Valley Velo Tasmania Riesling varietal fruit characters.Tasmania Riesling 2009 HHH Flavoursome palate with2008 HHHH1/2 Lifted varietal fruit with a good texture and length andLovely lime-like lift to the pleasant minerally character. developing nicely. $30orange blossom bouquet. Some sweetness but has Craigow TasmaniaBright lime-like palate balancing acid. $25 Unwooded Chardonnaydeveloping nice aged notes Moorilla Praxis Tasmania 2008 HHH1/2and filling the mouth with lip- Riesling 2008 HHH Nutty/Pineapple style with hintssmacking flavours. $39.99 Soft, spicy and flavoursome of caramel and some interestingDevil’s Corner Tasmania riesling with grapefruit and talcum seaweedy nuances. $19Riesling 2007 HHHH1/2 powder-like characters. $25 Derwent Estate WinesStill amazingly fresh and lively Unavale Vineyard Tasmania Chardonnayfor a three-year-old. Just Flinders Island Tasmania 2008 HHH1/2starting to develop some lovely Riesling 2008 HHH Oak-driven style with goodhoneyed/kerosene characters, Broader style developing level of varietal fruit pokinggiving the wine a complex secondary characters but still through and with caramel-likedimension. $17.10 has retained freshness. $24 bottle age developing. $35138 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingFreycinet Vineyard PINOT NOIRTasmania Chardonnay 2009 - 20082008 HHH1/2Lovely wine with very attractive 20 TASTEDsweet varietal fruit and subtle useof oak adding complexity. $35 12 AWARDEDSpring Vale Reserve “Overall there was lovely fruitFreycinet Coast Tasmania obvious here but this needs toChardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 be balanced with appropriate oakSubtle peach/apple bouquet for the fruit weight involved,”and good varietal fruit, and said one judge. “Most of thepleasant malo softness on the wines marked down werepalate. $30 downgraded because they wereSpring Vale Freycinet swamped with oak.”Coast TasmaniaChardonnay 2009 HHHInteresting nose - smells ofcrushed peaches with a leafyedge. Clean, balanced fruitpalate. $22Devil’s Corner Tasmania Derwent EstateChardonnay 2008 HHH Wines TasmaniaStill has plenty of life and Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHHfreshness. Some toastiness “A very pretty wine,” enthuseddeveloping. Good length of one judge. Dark in colour, withhoneycomb flavours. $17.10 lifted fruit aromas and a palateLouis Freycinet Tasmania full of plum and cherry-likeChardonnay 2008 HHH flavours with a good meaty/Distinctive caramel aromas and savoury edge. $35lively, well-structured palatedeveloping lovely complexity. $22Sugarloaf Ridge TasmaniaChardonnay 2007 HHHSweet fruit, soft malo andgentle oak results in a creamy,flavoursome wine. $27ROSE Craigow Easy Tasmania Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH1/23 TASTED Gorgeous dark, brooding black2 AWARDED fruits with savoury elements showing through and justBrook Eden the right amount of wood forPipers Brook Tasmania seamless balance. $19Pinot Rose 2009 HHH Home Hill Tasmania PinotBright, sweet raspberry-like Noir 2008 HHHH1/2fruit on both nose and palate, Plenty of woody characterswith a drying finish. $30 tending to dominate for nowNocton Park Coal River but there’s good depth andValley Tasmania Pinot intensity of savoury red varietalRose 2009 HHH fruit sitting underneath. $35Smart little quaffer with good The Wine Societyfruit weight on the palate and Regional Premiumnice spicy nuances. $20 Selection Tasmania Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH1/2 The nose has quite a perfumed lift. In the mouth it’s sweet and soft and very flavoursome, with plenty of varietal savouriness. $19.99 May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 139

TA S M A N I AYellow Point Brook Eden Tinderbox Tasmania Pinot Waterton VineyardsVineyard Bloody Pipers Brook Tasmania Noir 2006 HHHH1/2 Tasmania Cabernet Shiraz11th D’Entrecasteaux Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Soft, fleshy style and yet it 2008 HHHChannel Tasmania Still bright and lively, with good has a certain elegance and still Pretty wine exhibiting lots ofPinot Noir 2008 HHHH depth and intensity of savoury shows lovely minty freshness. oak but well matched by theLovely style of pinot offering a pinot aromas and flavours. $30 Excellent acid backbone and varietal fruit sweetness. $35huge mouthful of fleshy plum oak support. $32 Elmslie Estate Threeflavours perfectly balanced by Holm Oak Vineyards Mountain View Tamarthe crisp acid backbone. $40 Tasmania Pinot Sugarloaf Ridge Tasmania Valley CabernetBream Creek Tasmania Noir 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2007 HHHH Sauvignon 2005 HHHPinot Noir 2008 HHHH Weighty wine with slightly port- Intense, powerful and rich and Austere style - still a baby atSmells of raspberries with like varietal fruit and finishing showing lovely aged complexity, five years old. Slightly mustya spicy lift and some subtle quite hot. $30 aromatic varietal fruit and firm, fruit and cigar box oak. $28oak nuances, leading to a grippy tannins. $33flavoursome, seamlessly PINOT NOIR SWEET WHITEbalanced palate. $30 2007 & OLDER Craigow Tasmania PinotTamar Ridge Kayena Noir 2006 HHHH 5 TASTEDVineyard Tasmania Pinot 11 TASTED Mid-weight wine with excellent 5 AWARDEDNoir 2008 HHHH 6 AWARDED level of complexity developingSimple but very stylish pinot and good depth and intensity Velo Tasmania Late Harvestbrimming over with sweet Good aged pinots from of black cherry fruit with a nice Riesling 2009 HHHHHvarietal fruit and supported by Tasmania do well - “even better spicy lift. $35 Gorgeous sweet floral bouquetsome well-handled savoury oak than mainland vineyards”, followed by an intensely sweetin the background. $26.60 concluded one judge Nocton Park Coal River palate, but there’s also plenty Valley Tasmania Pinot of refreshing acidity to balanceMoorilla Muse Series Freycinet Vineyard Noir 2007 HHH1/2 out that sweetness. $20Tasmania Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot Noir Still tight and fresh, with good Tamar Ridge Kayena2008 HHH1/2 2007 HHHHH fruit/wood integration and Vineyard Tasmania BotrytisWell-balanced wine - quite Perfectly aged pinot offering showing a slight green/pine Riesling 2007 HHHHHBurgundian in style - with excellent drinking with abundant needle-like edge. $25 Rich, apricot-like botrytisabundant rich, savoury varietal soft, sweet fruit aromas and aromas and lovely luscious,fruit flavours. $45 flavours seamlessly integrated OTHER RED mouthfilling stone-fruit flavoursMoorilla Praxis Series with the oak and acid. $65 VARIETALS - very sweet but has just theTasmania Pinot & BLENDS right amount of acidity toNoir 2009 HHH balance it out. $23.75Bright, spicy cherry aromas and 9 TASTED Craigow Tasmaniaa light strawberry palate. Still 4 AWARDED Dessert Riesling 2008very young. $25 (375ml) HHHH1/2 The panel was disappointed with Subtle, spicy aromas mix withBass Fine Wine Sugarloaf Ridge this group. “Cabernet is a bit hit fruit sweetness. SumptuousStrait Tasmania Pinot Simon Tasmania and miss in Tasmania, with site palate beautifully texturedNoir 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2006 HHHHH selection critical, particularly in and brimming over with lip-Nice wine with good varietal Big, rich, well-structured wine the warmer regions of the state; smacking flavours. $19fruit showing an earthy/ with ripe fruit leaping out fruit shading is an issue,” Waterton Vineyardsforest floor character in the the glass, followed by long, said one judge. Tasmania Late Pickedbackground. $23 lingering, savoury/black plum Riesling 2008 HHHH1/2 flavours perfectly underscored Holm Oak Vineyards Great intensity and drive of by quality oak. $33 Tasmania Cabernet Merlot green lime characters on the 2008 HHHH nose and beautiful honeyed/ STAR RATINGS  Plenty of up-front blackcurrant aged nuances developing on the aromas with a pleasant herbal very flavoursome palate. $23.50Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of background. Soft in the mouth, Waterton Vineyards Dessertexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. with sweet/sour flavours. Tasmania Desert RieslingAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Needs more time. $25 2007 (375ml) HHHHprofessionals and are compared in peer Great flavour length, intensity andclasses by three judges. Holm Oak Vineyards sweetness in perfect balanceCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Tasmania Cabernet with the acid, and a slight VA lifta major mail-order business. Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 adding complexity. $32CD Cellar door price. Lightweight style with sweetCDO Cellar door only. aromas of chocolate andSO Sold out. prune-like characters which are$N/A Price not available at time of printing. echoed on the palate. $30 Contact information pg 158. Moorilla Muse Series Tasmania Merlot Cabernet RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). 2008 HHH Oak-driven blend with good varietal fruit underneath and showing a lifted, spicy element. $35140 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

varietal tasting149 TASTED79 AWARDEDSWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDA good line-up of wines for the sweet-toothed! But don’t be Forrest The Doctors’fooled by the image; the best wines have balance and backbone Marlboroughto match the sugar. And Australia produces some of the world’s Late Harvestgreatest fortifieds. Read on! Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (375ml) HHH Unusual, interesting style. Plenty of lychee/ tropical characters and an oily mouthfeel. $20SEMI-SWEET Trentham La Famiglia Seresin Marlborough Skillogalee Clare Robert Stein MudgeeWHITE Moscato 2009 HHH Late Harvest Valley Harvest Gold Harvest Gold 2009 Butterscotch and raisined Riesling 2005 2005 (375ml) HHHH (375ml) HHH5 TASTED fruit characters merge to (375ml) HHHH Beautifully developed, Great concentration of1 AWARDED create a complex sweet Greenish hues. Good complex, toasty riesling honeyed raisined fruit wine. $14 example of a simpler, with typical kerosene characters with botrytisThese generally had drier wine made in characters on the nose notes and good acidtoo many phenolics and Grant Burge an appealing Alsacian and sweet, orange peel- balance. $25lacked balance of fruit Frizzante Moscato style. Light and still like flavours. $25 Xanadu Margaretfreshness and acid. 2009 HHH youthful. $27 Longview Vineyard River Cane Cut Vibrantly fresh style - not Epitome Late Harvest Semillon SauvignonJames Haselgrove too sweet - with nice Riesling 2008 Blanc 2009Wines Selections tingling, crisp, gassy (375ml) HHH1/2 (375ml) HHHSemi-Sweet Later character. $17 Lovely lychee lift to Simple, well-made wineHarvest 2009 HHH the nose and rich, layered with steely citrusAttractive peach-like LATE HARVEST nutty, honeyed flavours fruit, honeyed sweetnessaromas and a soft, & CANE CUT with interesting funky and fresh acid. $25sweet apricot palate. notes. $18 Elliot Rocke EstateQuite elegant. $15 29 TASTED Gapsted Wines Mudgee Ice Wine 13 AWARDED Mountain Gold 2008 (375ml) HHHMOSCATO Limited Release Intense, sweet, dried Mixed bag confusing in King Valley Late stone-fruit characters7 TASTED their descriptions - some Harvest Semillon well matched by intense3 AWARDED were lighter, others 2009 (500ml) HHH green tartness. $26 botrytised and a few Good young botrytis Aurum 24 CaratHandful of pleasant, were big and clumsy, style. Lovely pungent Central Otagofresh and vibrant wines. lacking vibrancy and tropical fruit with a Pinot Gris 2009Too many others had finesse. The better muscat/floral lift. $19 (375ml) HHHaldehydic characters. wines had a balance of Very sweet. Mix of flavour and elegance. apricot and raisined floralBrown Brothers notes. Simple nose andVictoria Moscato zesty palate. $552009 HHHH d’ArenbergFresh, fragrant and The Stump Jumpfloral, with a muscat Adelaide Hillslift to the nose and McLaren Vale Stickyinviting sweet flavours. Chardonnay 2008Nice acid and spritzig (375ml) HHHcharacters. $15.40 Generous, developed wine with abundant ripe peach, honey and apricot blossom elements. $11 May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 141

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDBrown Brothers Brown Brothers Heart of Stone Seppeltsfield Vera Seppeltsfield SelmaVictoria Orange Patricia King Valley Marlborough Noble Viola Rich Oloroso Melitta Rare LusciousMuscat & Flora Noble Riesling 2006 Riesling 2009 NV (500ml) HHHHH NV (500ml) HHHH1/22008 (375ml) HHH (375ml) HHHHH (375ml) HHH1/2 Very approachable wine Aged, nutty fortifiedZesty, citrusy style with More traditional style - Excellent level of botrytis, with a perfect harmony with lovely sweetfloral/aniseed aromatics complex yet fresh, with fresh/pungent tropical between oak/rancio and complexity. Aromaticand long, lingering a lifted, citrusy nose and fruit and some great acid acid/sweetness. Nutty, oaky lift to the nose andflavours. $15.40 stone-fruits merging to balance it all. $30 developed age and not plenty of sweet, spicy seamlessly with lovely too sweet, with a long, flavours spread acrossCapercaillie Dessert toasty aged characters Tamburlaine Reserve lingering finish. $32 the palate. $45Gewurztraminer on the palate. $34.90 Noble Chardonnay Seppeltsfield Flora2008 (375ml) HHH Riverby Estate 2008 (375ml) HHH1/2 Palomino Fino NV Seppeltsfield CaraGreat colour, lively, zesty Single Vineyard Zesty citrus characters (500ml) HHHH1/2 Blanca Palominolemon aromas and super Marlborough Noble mingle with sweet Fine, fresh style with Amontillado NVflavours with perfect acid Riesling 2009 butterscotch elements, good clean, young, (500ml) HHHHbalance. $18 (375ml) HHHH followed by a long, nutty flor characters on Nice wood age Lively apricot/citrus style lingering, sweet finish. $28 the nose and real fino concentration on thePegasus Bay Aria of aged riesling with complexity on the palate. nose merging withLate Picked Riesling nice nutty complexity. Gramps Five Plenty of bready/appley/ citrus rind and nutty2008 (375ml) HHH Elegance, great overall Generations Riverina nutty elements. $22 aromas. Fine, elegantFloral/citrusy nose and length and a silky, Botrytis Semillon 919 Fino NV HHHH1/2 palate. Slightly hot spirit.zesty lemon flavours seamless balance. $25 2006 (375ml) HHH1/2 Great young flor yeast Youthful flavours. $26on the fresh, balanced Sticks Yarra Valley Broad, toasty oak nose obvious here. Smells ofpalate. $36.95 Botrytis Semillon with some nice fruit cut apples and nuts. Fine, Seppeltsfield 2008 (375ml) HHHH below. Similar things elegant palate. Made in ParamountNOBLE Attractive dried apricot/ happening on the palate. the true Manzanilla style. Collection XO& BOTRYTIS pineapple bouquet and Needs more time. $19.99 Lovely drinking. $28 Oloroso NV HHHHSTYLE some gorgeous rich Morris of Rutherglen Big, rich, aged style nutty/dried fruit flavours McGuigan Wines Old Premium that’s high in acid but30 TASTED with lovely balancing Personal Reserve Amontillado Sherry with acidity well matched11 AWARDED acidity. $25 Botrytis Semillon NV (500ml) HHHH1/2 by plenty of oaky Forrest Marlborough 2005 (375ml) HHH1/2 Vibrant vanillin lift to the sweetness. Quite spirity-Some real stunners here, Botrytised Riesling Elegant wine with a nose, with some good hot in the mouth. $149which shows these 2009 (375ml) HHHH creamy/malty nose rancio characters. Softwineries know what they Lifted apricot/botrytis and well-balanced, palate fills the mouth Seppeltsfieldare doing. The ‘06s and bouquet and mouth- flavoursome, sweet, with delicious, warm, Paramount Collection‘05s were the pick of coating sweet flavours buttery palate. $26 nutty flavours. $45 XO Amontillado NVthe bunch, showing that balanced by zesty, citrusy (500ml) HHHHtime improves the better acidity and some oak. Trentham Noble Plenty of complexity, withwines. The ‘09s seemed Great balance, length and Taminga 2006 a bitey spirit influence.to lack botrytis characters. complexity. $35 (375ml) HHH Attractive citrus rind, nuts Muscaty rose petal and old oak characters.John Forrest aromas and hugely Has both finesse andCollection Brancott powerful, oily tropical elegance. $149Valley Marlborough palate. $26Noble Riesling 2006 Morris of Rutherglen(375ml) HHHHH SHERRY/ Mia FinoVery complex, traditional APERA Sherry NV HHHaged riesling. Great More advanced finoconcentration and 12 TASTED style that’s light, freshbalance of apricot, citrus 9 AWARDED and simple with niceand fig characters with a nutty flavours. $12funky, barnyardy edge. Get used to the wordVery soft, very balanced, Apera. It will define OTHERvery good. $50 all Australian sherries FORTIFIED from dry to cream, plusJohn Forrest a sweet commercial 10 TASTEDCollection Brancott category. In this line-up 4 AWARDEDValley Marlborough we show yet again theNoble Riesling 2005 world-class quality of Mixed range of different(375ml) HHHHH these styles. “A delight,” sweet fortifieds. “AGolden wine with agreed the judges. number of these arevibrant lift of limes/ attempts at makingcitrus on the nose and varietal fortifieds,” noteda beautifully balanced one judge. “A handful ofpalate brimming over pleasant drinkers.”with flavour. QuiteSauternes-like. Lovelydrinking. $50142 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

varietal tastingPertaringa Vineyards De Bortoli Kalleske JMK TAWNY SeppeltsfieldThe Full Fronti Black Noble NV Barossa Valley 100 Year Old ParaMcLaren Vale (375ml) HHH Shiraz VP 2008 32 TASTED Vintage Tawny 1910Liqueur Frontignac Distinctive toffee, (375ml) HHH 24 AWARDED (375ml) HHHHHNV (500ml) HHHH1/2 coffee and citrus rind Sweet, soft, ruby Another superb class “Fascinating - a realExcellent style with aromas and flavours with style with intense of fortifieds, showing curio,” was one judge’snice age and spirit complex aged notes. $34 concentration of fruit complexity, balance comment. Dense,influence and varietal and big tannins. $23 and style. A few aged almost black, in colour,fruit that’s still, as one VINTAGE Bleasdale The Wise wines suffered a Massive caramel/judge described it, FORTIFIED One Fortified Shiraz little due to tired, flat toffee/spicy age.“trumpeting through”. 2008 (500ml) HHH characters which would Huge sugar richnessGood acid bite to 13 TASTED Quite lively, with a have benefited from with appropriate VAbalance the generous 10 AWARDED peppery lift to the nose freshening up. Old complexity. $975sweet flavours. $26 and licorice bite to the fortifieds still need to Penfolds GreatChambers Rosewood Very consistent group. palate. $25 have a level of vibrancy Grandfather RareVineyards Rutherglen “The best producers Di Giorgio Family to be great. Tawny NV HHHHHRuby Port NV HHH are trying very hard,” Coonawarra Burnished brown huesTrue to style. Inky prune said one judge. “Some Fortified Shiraz Seppeltsfield with a glowing green rim.nose and rich, ageing, would have performed 2006 (500ml) HHH Paramount Oaky nose and stunning,tannic palate. $10 even better without oak Elegant, tarry style Collection XO Tawny treacle-like aged fruitRiversands Wines or excessive sweetness. with perfumed berry NV (500ml) HHHHH with great integration ofStirling’s Reserve A true vintage port style bouquet, and soft and Spicy sherry style with aged oak and a spiritedSt George Red should not have oak - a sweet in the mouth. $33 a strong spirit lift on finish. $349.99Liqueur Muscat NV fortified shiraz should Serafino McLaren the nose and great old Penfolds Grandfather(500ml) HHH not be over-oaked.” Vale Vintage tawny flavours - intense Fine Old LiqueurWell-made, fresh, light Fortified complexity of spices and Tawny NV HHHHHstyle with pleasant, Foxeys Hangout Shiraz 2005 HHH citrus rind. Quite hot. Nutty/rancio characterssweet, soft muscat Fortified Shiraz 2008 Massive wine - big Great wine. $349 mingle with burnt toffeecharacters. $24 (500ml) HHHH1/2 and sweet, with huge aromas. Rich in the Youthful purple wine tannins, tarry notes and mouth, with great nutty with a floral/minty lift a hot finish. $25 toffee development to to the nose and superb Morris’s Vintage match the luscious fruit sweet, rich and well- 2003 HHH flavours. Great overall balanced palate showing Ageing spicy/Ribena balance. $99.99 good spirit contribution aromas and lovely elegant to the complexity. Great palate. Nice sweetness. effort! $25 Dry tannins. $20 Seppeltsfield 919 Vintage Vintage Shiraz 2001 2006 HHHH1/2 (375ml) HHH Interesting wine made Lightweight with in the Portuguese style. minty leafy fruit, soft, Attractive dark berry/ chocolaty notes and spicy/peppery elements. lovely tannins. $18 Long and flavoursome Seppeltsfield palate with a lingering, Vintage Touriga drying finish. $45 1987 HHH Still amazingly youthful, Flaxman Wines with an abundance Barossa Shiraz VP of licorice/dried floral 2008 (375ml) HHH characters. Very Intense, almost black, flavoursome. $45 colour with great cherry/ plum fruit and hot spirit. Dry style. $20 JUDGESBill Hardy Eric Semmler James GodfreyCorporate oenologist for Proprietor of 919 Wine Southcorp groupBRL Hardy Ltd. 28 years’ Company. Formerly winemaker and seniorwinemaking experience in winemaker for the Hardy show judge. Memberplaces such as McLaren Vale, Wine Company. Previously of the Australian WineWestern Australia and with Brown Brothers Export judging panelFrance. Has judged and Auldstone Cellars. regulating the quality ofinternationally (France and Has spent eight years as wines sent overseas.Japan), and been an associate fortified winemaker foror senior judge at more than Hardys. Associate judge at20 state and regional wine Rutherglen, McLaren Valeshows in Australia. and Riverland shows. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 143

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDAuldstone Saltram Grant Burge 10 Year Morris Liqueur Baileys of GlenrowanHerceynia Tawny Mr Pickwick’s Old Barossa Tawny Collection Liqueur Founder LiqueurPort NV HHHH1/2 Particular Tawny NV HHHH Tawny NV Tokay NV HHHHBeautifully aged wine NV HHHH1/2 Fully matured style - (500ml) HHH Typical tokay aromas ofwith lovely nutty rancio Lovely candy bouquet soft and elegant, with Massive liqueur style rich toffee mixed withcharacters and long, with elevated toffee good rancio. Long rich - very sweet and tea leaves. Clean andsweet, spicy, citrusy spirit. Great depth of and flavoursome in the with aged chocolaty fresh in the mouth, withfruit flavours on the flavour - very elegant. mouth, with a slightly complexity. $19.59 more of the sweet toffeewell-structured palate. Beautiful nutty/toffee hot finish. $30 and tea leaves. GoodWarming spirit. $27 balance. Tastes a little like Morris of Rutherglen Grant Burge example of style. $23.99Seppeltsfield a creme caramel! $69.99 Old Premium Tawny 20 Year Old BarossaPara Grand Tawny Hardys Whiskers NV (500ml) HHHH Tawny NV HHH SeppeltsfieldNV HHHH1/2 Blake Classic Tawny Aged liqueur style with Nicely aged wine with Grand Tokay NVVery stylish old tawny NV HHHH a complexity of spices, wonderful rancio/nutty (500ml) HHH1/2with lovely aged Light, spicy number but citrus rind, rancio, flavours that fill the Intense malty/toffeecomplexity evolving from still showing some great chocolate and sherry mouth. $65 bouquet and rich sweeta mix of rancio, spices, age, great finesse, lots fruit. Tight structure. palate with reasonablecitrus rind and nutty of nutty rancio and with Good age. Could do with TOKAY/ age and some flavourcharacters, and some dusty oak adding more some freshening. $65 TOPAQUE complexity. $32dried floral notes. $32 complexity. $16 Hardys Tall Ships Tawny NV HHH1/2 7 TASTED Morris of RutherglenSt Hallett Anniversary James Haselgrove Simple, pleasant, 7 AWARDED Cellar ReserveBarossa Port NV Wines 10 Year Old light, spicy/chocolaty Grand Tokay NV(500ml) HHHH1/2 Tawny NV HHHH commercial style with The Rutherglen (500ml) HHH1/2Sweaty rancio lift on the Heavier aged/oily soft fruit, nice spirit, tokays/topaques really Lovely rich, sweet,nose. Sweet, beautifully medium-style tawny caramel and muscat stand out in a crowd. well-made wine with lip-rounded, velvety with nice old rancio characters. $9 Extremely strong class smacking malty/caramelpalate with great age notes. Rich and complex Penfolds Club from premium makers. flavours and good acidcomplexity and some yet also has a certain Tawny NV HHH1/2 level to balance. $35obvious spirit to give it a elegance. $16 Deep tawny brown with Morris of Rutherglenbite. Nice style. $36 De Bortoli lovely depth of dried Old Premium Morris LiqueurGalway Pipe Grand 8 Year Old Tawny plum/toffee aromas and Liqueur Tokay NV CollectionTawny NV HHHH1/2 Port NV HHHH flavours. Some heady (500ml) HHHHH Liqueur Tokay NVBeautiful blended tawny Elegant, sweet, fresh spirit. $11.99 True liqueur. Great (500ml) HHHwith syrupy-sweet fruit and tight with lovely Aldi Stores age. Huge old toffee Attractive true-to-stylebalanced by alcohol and age, depth and spicy Keeper’s Glove flavour concentration example. Toffee/tea anddrying tannins. Smells of balance. Not overly Tawny Port NV HHH with gorgeous viscous some distinct aged oaktoffees and oranges, with complex but has some Young, soft, sweet, mouthfeel and good characters. $19.59luscious flavours and a rancio notes. $23 simple tawny with spicy spirit bite that cutswarming finish. $36.99 Penfolds Bluestone fruit and high spirit through the sweetness MUSCATSeppeltsfield DP90 10 Year Old Grand level. $4.99 and adds life. $65Rare Tawny NV Tawny NV HHHH Penfolds Club 18 TASTED(500ml) HHHH1/2 Rich caramel notes to Reserve Classic Seppeltsfield 10 AWARDEDGood nutty age and the nose - smells like Tawny NV HHH Rare Tokay NVrancio complexity. True burnt toffee. Lovely fruit Nose and palate showing (375ml) HHHH1/2 True classic Australiantawny palate with a balance on the palate, some development. Somewhat subdued style at its best! Thecomplex flavour profile with warming alcohol Mid-weight style - nose but there’s older wines reallyand attractive drying, coming through. $23.99 luscious, sweet and freshness on the stood out with theirbitey characters. $69 balanced. $14.99 intensely flavoured, soft amazing complexity. Serafino McLaren caramel palate. Great Some younger wines STAR RATINGS  Vale Old Tawny Port rancio elements and high were disappointing - NV HHH acidity to balance. $59 often they were notThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Dense, dry, oaky tawny from Rutherglen - andexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. showing great age, Seppeltsfield showed winemakingAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry rich liqueur and good Paramount Collection faults such as aldehydeprofessionals and are compared in peer acidity. $15 XO Rare Tokay NV or oak barrel issues.classes by three judges. Bleasdale The Wise (500ml) HHHH1/2CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, One Tawny NV HHH Huge wine with aa major mail-order business. Simple, soft and fabulous complexityCD Cellar door price. alcoholic wine with of toffee, teaCDO Cellar door only. some nice nutty rancio and butterscotchSO Sold out. appearing. $16 complemented by great$N/A Price not available at time of printing. age intensity. Nicely freshened with some Contact information pg 158. vibrant stock. $249 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).144 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

varietal tastingMorris of Rutherglen SeppeltsfieldOld Premium Grand Muscat NVLiqueur Muscat NV (500ml) HHHH1/2(500ml) HHHHH Good blended style - veryGreat complex style of commercial - with lovelyraisined fruit and floral oak integrated with agedcharacters. Massive age raisin/floral fruit. Spicy liftmerges with intense to the nose and soft andconcentration of flavours sweet in the mouth, withshowing a slight meaty a dry finish. $32note. A real star - never Baileys of Glenrowandisappoints! $65 Founder Liqueur Muscat NV HHHH1/2 Fabulous aromas of prunes and raisins with treacle running through. Luscious, flavoursome toffee palate has nice freshness and a cleansing finish. $23.99 Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Reserve Grand Muscat NV (500ml) HHHH1/2 Intense and rich; long and balanced, with a huge spicy/toffee nose showing age complexity. Great length and intensity of sweet spicy/ toffee flavours. $35Seppeltsfield SeppeltsfieldParamount Collection Rare Muscat NVXO Muscat NV (375ml) HHHH1/2(500ml) HHHHH Beautifully aged muscatHuge, complex, aged, style. Has heaps ofspicy style showing rancio elements witha certain elegance. a big spirit bite andAromatic bouquet with intensely sweet, raisinednuances of roses and muscat flavours. $59raisins. Great length of Morris Liqueursweet aged fruit flavours Collectionon the palate. $249 Liqueur Muscat NVBaileys of Glenrowan (500ml) HHHHWinemakers Very youthful but trueSelection Old Muscat to style with vibrantNV (375ml) HHHHH floral/rose petal-likeBeautiful black/brown bouquet and generouslywine with a golden green flavoured, complexedge. Nose of dense, palate. $19.59aged dark prunes and De Bortoliraisins. Palate like liquid Show Liqueurgold, with essence of Muscat NV HHH1/2complex toffee muscat Real liqueur style withflavours. Just great! $75 intense spicy/floral/ chocolaty nose and flavoursome, well-aged, stylish palate. $23 Buller Fine Old Muscat NV HHH Fresh aromatic lift to the nose. Very sweet in the mouth, with nice spicy fruit and some rancio. $22 May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 145

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNELSON & WAIRARAPABLOOMING DELICIOUS authentic, old-school French bistro; fully fitted kitchen, separate sitting area, Arbitrageur, which offers European flavours wood fire and TV/DVD/CD player. TheFAMILY-OWNED Murdoch James is one and an international wine list; and long-time large settee is also a comfortable pull-downof the Waiararapa’s most welcoming favourite the Boulcott Street Bistro. double bed for additional adults or children.cellar doors and also home to the newBloom restaurant. Murdoch James is open Matterhorn, also on Cuba St, is a late-night Outside, the large deck overlooking thedaily from 11am-5pm and closed only on hangout for Wellington trendsetters and vineyard gives commanding views to theChristmas Day, New Year’s Day and Easter regularly wins awards as New Zealand’s local hills, an ideal spot to sit and relaxFriday. The restaurant is open Wednesday best bar. Tucked away down an unpromising over a barbecue dinner with a glass ofto Monday for lunch during summer and corridor, it also serves top-notch food, has wine. Visitors are welcome to walk aroundFriday-Sunday during winter. great cocktails and an excellent wine the vineyard or by the pond (with resident list. There’s an outdoor courtyard that’s ducks), or play petanque on the court Visitors can drop in for brunch, lunch, a hugely popular in the summer months. by the winery. Phone +64 6 379 8563;glass of wine or a snack, with the menu See www.matterhorn.co.nz. www.gladstonevineyard.co.nz.featuring seasonal dishes and premiumwines made by the Fraser family. Dishesrange from roasted beetroot and feta tartwith a walnut and citrus salad to clam andchilli linguine with a cherry tomato sauceand rocket salad. Both full meals and lighteroptions are available. Phone +64 6 306 9165;www.murdochjames.co.nzSPOILT FOR CHOICE DELIGHTS OF GLADSTONE TASTY TOURSWELLINGTON, the New Zealand capital, THE WAIRARAPA region is dotted with small ZEST Food Tours of New Zealand offersoffers plenty of places to keep warm and vineyards and cellar doors, some of which a range of visits to food producers andwell fed, including some of New Zealand’s also offer food. The Gladstone Vineyard has outlets in Wellington and the Wairarapatop restaurants like Logan Brown and an excellent cellar door and cafe with dining (including the excellent Moore-WilsonMartin Bosley’s Yacht Club. There’s also indoors and al fresco in a lovely setting and gourmet store and local coffee roasters),an excellent selection of cafes and wine relaxed ambience. Food by award-winning as well as tours to the Kapiti Coast withbars, particularly in and around the funky chef Zane Saba is available Thursday to caterer Ruth Pretty. Phone +64 4 801 9198;Cuba St precinct, and more than 300 bars, Sunday and on public holidays and the menu www.zestfoodtours.co.nz.restaurants and cafes in the city. features dishes like salmon and corn fritter with bacon, mesclun and creme fraiche, and CELLAR DOOR STROLLING Logan Brown (www.loganbrown.co.nz) is grilled Scotch fillet with rosemary roastedrun by TV chefs Steve Logan and Al Brown potatoes, buttered spinach and a red wine, MARTINBOROUGH may be home to onlyand is set in an old art deco bank building wholegrain mustard sauce. a few hundred people, but is probablyon Cuba St. Diners can choose from a bistro New Zealand’s best-known “wine village”.menu or a la carte dining on dishes like seared The Gladstone Vineyard Apartment The wine capital of the Wairarapa regionhare loin with garlic custard, mulled wine, duck is beautifully appointed self-catering is popular with visitors because they canparfait and fig molasses, or maybe Hawke’s accommodation set above the old winery walk from cellar door to cellar door.Bay lamb rack with olive-braised merino and overlooking the vines. The apartmentshoulder, falafel and ratatouille. has accommodation for two people at $225 Martinborough is also home to the for the first night and $415 for two nights. wonderfully atmospheric Wendy The Yacht Club showcases the talents There’s a queen-size bed, double bath, Campbell’s French Bistro, a little slice ofof Martin Bosley (www.martin-bosley.com)and the emphasis here is on fresh seafood:dishes like snapper with smoked eel terrine,seaweed gelee, cauliflower puree and oyster/lettuce emulsion, or maybe the six-coursedegustation menu of smaller portions, whichcan also be matched with premium wines. Also check out Le Metropolitain, an146 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

travelbriefs PINOT WITHOUT POMP ATA Rangi is one of the most famous pinot noir producers in the world, as well as having a range of fine wines made from other varieties, but its Martinborough cellar door, known as The Winery Shop, is refreshingly free of pretence. Owned and managed by Clive Paton, his wife Phyll and Clive’s sister Alison, Ata Rangi has been a success story since Clive planted the original 12-acre home paddock in 1980, becoming a regional pioneer. AtaParis in Kiwiland that was named New John O’Sullivan. “While best known as a Rangi Pinot Noir is now widely considered aZealand’s best regional restaurant in 2008. restaurateur, Kent is a third-generation leading New World example and in FebruaryIt’s run by husband and wife team Jim and hotelier with considerable local and 2010 was awarded inaugural New ZealandWendy Campbell. Jim takes care of front international experience managing hotels Grand Cru status at Pinot Noir New Zealand.of house while Wendy cooks brilliantly and resorts. He has all the attributes weFrench-accented food that’s listed on a were seeking.” The Winery Shop’s opening hours areblackboard menu. Before joining Parehua, Kent worked at limited to 1pm-3pm midweek and noon- Sileni Estates, Masters Lodge in Napier and 4pm weekends and holidays. Phone +64 A buzzy spot just off the town square, at Clearview Estate, as well as Wellington 6 306 9570; www.atarangi.co.nz.it oozes French charm and ambience fine diner Petit Lyon Kent. He says his roleand serves local delicacies like whitebait enables him “to not only pamper the diner Ata Rangi is regularly the most popularand paua (a local shellfish) along but to provide an all-round experience in site at Toast Martinborough each year, withwith traditional dishes like duck a a relaxed and luxurious setting. We want the wines paired to food created by leadingl’Orange with puy lentils (delicious!) to become one of the world’s top gourmet caterer Ruth Pretty. Toast Martinborough,and Normandy-style pork fillet with getaway experiences”. which bills itself as New Zealand's premiercalvados, a long-time favourite. There’s Parehua Country Estate provides luxury food and wine festival, is held annually onalso a splendidly decadent wine list. The accommodation just a few minutes’ walk the third Sunday in November. See www.bistro’s at 3 Kitchener St, Martinborough. from the historic Martinborough township toastmartinborough.co.nz for details.Phone +64 6 306 8863. and has previously concentrated on weddings and corporate retreats. Phone Left: The Pavilion restaurant overlooking the poolTOP CHEF’S +64 6 306 8405; www.parehua.co.nz. at Parehua Country Estate.NEW CHALLENGE Right: Ata Rangi cellar door. GOOD CONNECTIONSCHEF Kent Baddeley is cooking up Opposite pagea storm in the Pavilion Restaurant at AIR New Zealand (www.airnewzealand. Left: Murdoch James Estate.Parehua Country Estate, where he offers com.au) flies direct daily services from Right: Logan Brown exterior.a Martinborough Experience wine and Sydney and other Australian capitalfood degustation dinner for $125 per cities to Wellington. Once in Newperson. Kent is not only chef but also chief Zealand, Air New Zealand connects toexecutive of the luxury retreat, with the brief 27 domestic destinations.of making it a culinary destination.“Having developed Parehua Country For comfortable and affordableEstate, we wanted to ensure our guests accommodation in downtownreceived a culinary experience that Wellington, the Quality Hotel is rightwas consistent with the high quality of in the centre of the action on Cuba St.our facilities,” says company chairman See www.hotelwellington.co.nz. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 147

119 TASTED81 RECOMMENDEDNELSON & WAIRARAPAOverall, a strong tasting, in which the judges unearthed Pencarrow Urlar Gladstone Sauvignonimpressive white wines from a wide range of varieties - Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH1/2notably sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris Blanc 2009 HHHH Mouthfilling, slightly oak-and viognier. The 2008 pinot noirs from the Wairarapa Crisp, buoyant, tightly structured influenced style with a creamyregion, currently on the market, are generous, ripe- wine with very good body and texture and good concentrationtasting and already highly approachable. depth of fresh tropical fruit and of ripe, tropical fruit flavours. herbal flavours. Great value from Still developing. $22Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Palliser Estate. $15 (A, UK, US)Wines available in export markets are shown as Richmond Plains Whakatu Burnt Spur(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Blanc 2009 HHHSPARKLING Spinyback Nelson Certified organic wine with Weighty and rounded single- Sauvignon Blanc strong, herbaceous aromas vineyard wine with satisfying1 TASTED 2009 HHHH1/2 leading into a concentrated, depth of ripe melon and lime1 AWARDED Bargain-priced, generous, dry lively palate with dry, lasting flavours. $17 wine with excellent depth of flavours. $19.99 (A)Palliser Estate ripe passionfruit, citrus and Wingspan Nelson Redoubt Hill NelsonMartinborough Methode spice flavours. Finely textured, Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHTraditionnelle 2006 HHH1/2 with fresh, lively acidity and 2009 HHHH Fleshy and mouthfilling, withFragrant blend of pinot noir and a long finish (from Waimea Great buy, offering delicious, good depth of ripe, melon/limechardonnay, fresh, citrusy and Estates). $14.90 (UK, US) easy drinking. Ripe, tropical flavours and a well-roundedcrisp, with good intensity and Anchorage Nelson fruit-flavoured wine, with finish. $21toasty, yeasty notes adding Sauvignon Blanc distinct hints of pineapplecomplexity. $34 2009 HHHH and passionfruit, and a Renato Nelson Sauvignon Crisp and zingy single-vineyard strong, smooth finish (from Blanc 2009 HHHSAUVIGNON wine with concentrated fruit Woollaston). $12.95 Clearly herbaceous style,BLANC flavours of melon, passionfruit Brightwater Vineyards lively and balanced for easy and citrus fruits, some grassy, Nelson Sauvignon Blanc drinking, with melon and green29 TASTED herbal notes and an off-dry, 2009 HHH1/2 capsicum flavours, crisp acidity17 AWARDED long finish. $17 Generous, mouthfilling wine and good depth. $19 Breakers Bay with a freshly herbaceous,Strong class of vibrant, crisp, Nelson Sauvignon Blanc slightly ‘sweaty’ bouquet and Southern Lighthousecool-climate wines. Nelson 2009 HHHH strong, ripe, tropical fruit and Nelson Sauvignon Blanc- where sauvignon blanc is A bargain! Aromatic, nettley, herbal flavours, threaded with 2009 HHHthe most extensively planted intensely varietal wine with fresh, appetising acidity. $20 Priced right, this crisp dry winevariety - dominated, but Palliser herbaceous flavours, crisp and Mt Campbell has strong flavours of melons,Estate (and its second-tier pungent (from Torrent Bay). $12 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc apples and limes, fresh andlabel, Pencarrow) kept the Golden Hills Estate 2009 HHH1/2 lively (from Torrent Bay). $13Wairarapa flag flying. Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Fresh and lively, full-bodied 2009 HHHH and finely balanced, with Waimea Nelson SauvignonPalliser Estate Worth cellaring, this tightly ripely herbaceous flavours, Blanc 2009 HHHMartinborough Sauvignon structured, single-vineyard good vigour and length. Priced Crisp, clearly herbaceousBlanc 2009 HHHHH wine was partly barrel- sharply (from Torrent Bay). $15 style, intensely varietal, withMouthfilling, vibrantly fruity fermented. Weighty and Richmond Plains nettley aromas and strong,wine with intense, ripe flavours youthful, it is ripely flavoured, Nelson Sauvignon Blanc green capsicum-like flavours.likened to ‘passionfruit’ by all with a subtle seasoning of oak, 2009 HHH1/2 $17.90 (UK, US)panellists. Excellent weight and strong tropical fruit flavours and Certified organic, this brisk,texture, with moderate acidity good acid spine. $19.90 (A) herbaceous style has grassy, RIESLINGand a finely balanced, sustained nettley aromas and fresh melonfinish. $22 (A, UK, US) and green capsicum flavours, 12 TASTED very good vigour and depth. 10 AWARDED $19.99 (A, UK, US) Another strong class, both for Nelson and the Wairarapa, with wines showing some bottle age rating strongly. For current vintage releases, those with some obvious sweetness to flesh out the palate and balance their lively acidity performed best.148 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingWaimea Classic Nelson Waimea Dry Riesling Burnt Spur Martinborough Spinyback Nelson PinotRiesling 2008 HHHHH 2006 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris 2009 HHHHH Gris 2009 HHH1/2Lovely now, this luscious Still youthful in colour, this Instantly attractive, rich and From Waimea Estates, awine is a medium style with single-vineyard Nelson wine soft, in a distinctly medium fresh, crisp, tightly structuredconcentrated, ripe flavours is full-bodied with ripe, style with mouthfilling body, an wine with very good depth ofof passionfruit and pineapple passionfruit and lime flavours oily texture and concentrated, slightly sweet, citrusy, peachyand fresh, appetising acidity and a dry, slightly minerally deliciously ripe, stone-fruit and flavour. $17.90 (UK, US)keeping things lively. Powerful, finish. $17.90 (UK) spice flavours. A single-vineyard Palliser Estaterich and long, it’s bargain- wine from Martinborough Martinboroughpriced. $17.90 (US) Hudson Wharekaka Vineyard. $22 (A) Pinot Gris 2009 HHHAnchorage Classic Nelson Riesling 2008 HHH Golden Hills Estate Nelson Fleshy and clearly varietal, withRiesling 2007 HHHH1/2 Tight, dryish wine grown at Pinot Gris 2009 HHHH mouthfilling body, an oily textureDrinking well now, this Martinborough. Lemony, Intensely varietal, with a sliver and slightly sweet pear and spicemedium style has bright, light appley and peachy, finely of sweetness amid its rich flavours, balanced by fresh, crispyellow colour and developed, textured and well balanced, stone-fruit and spice flavours and acidity. Easy-drinking style, worthminerally, slightly toasty with plenty of flavour. $23 fresh, balanced acidity. Enjoyed cellaring. $24 (A, UK)aromas and flavours. Good by all panelists. $19.90 (A) Renato Nelsonbalance of fruit, sweetness Martinborough Vineyard Rimu Grove Nelson Pinot Pinot Gris 2009 HHHand acidity, with bottle-aged Jackson Block Riesling Gris 2009 HHHH Medium-dry style, estate-complexity. $17 2009 HHH Fresh and full-bodied, with a grown at Kina, with ripe citrusAnchorage Nelson From 19-year-old vines, a full- slightly oily texture and strong, and stone-fruit flavours, a sliverRiesling 2007 HHHH bodied style with fresh, dryish gently sweet pear, citrus fruit of sweetness and fresh acidity.Dryish style with crisp, citrusy, lemon/apple flavours, crisp and and peach flavours. Fifteen per Good balance for easy, earlylimey flavours, a minerally strong. Worth cellaring. $26 cent barrel-ageing adds a touch drinking. $22streak and lingering finish. of complexity. $29 (A, US) Te Mania Nelson PinotMaturing gracefully. $16 Spinyback Nelson Riesling Anchorage Nelson Pinot Gris 2009 HHHMartinborough 2008 HHH Gris 2009 HHH1/2 Mouthfilling and slightly sweet,Vineyard Bruno Riesling Gently sweet style from Medium-bodied style, still with good depth of ripe pear and2009 HHHH Waimea Estates with citrus and very fresh and youthful, with spice flavours, finely balanced forHand-harvested from the Jackson tropical fruit flavours, ripe and crisp, slightly sweet flavours of easy drinking. $21.99 (A, UK, US)Block and made in a medium- crisp, and hints of honey and lychees, pears and spices and Torrent Bay Nelson Pinotsweet style, this ripe, citrusy marmalade. $13.90 (UK, US) good depth. $18 Gris 2009 HHHwine is balanced for good, easy, Bronte by Rimu “Pinot grigio” style, accordingearly drinking. Lemony and limey, PINOT GRIS Grove Nelson Pinot Gris to one judge, with fresh,with lively acidity. $26 2009 HHH1/2 crisp flavours of lemons, applesMartinborough Vineyard 18 TASTED Partly barrel-aged, this tight, and spices, and medium body.Manu Riesling 2009 HHHH 11 AWARDED citrusy wine is a gently sweet $16 (A, UK, US)Harvested with a ‘modest’ style with very good depth andbotrytis influence from mature Four wines in the classic, full- harmony. $22 (A, US) OTHER WHITESvines, this pale lemon/green bodied and rich Alsace mouldwine is fresh and slightly sweet, dominated this class, backed 7 TASTEDwith ripe lemon, apple and up by several lighter, fresh 5 AWARDEDspice flavours, finely balanced, and clearly varietal, deliciouslydelicate and lingering. $26 easy-drinking wines, mostly Waimea Nelson ViognierWaimea Bolitho SV from Nelson. 2009 HHHH1/2Riesling 2007 HHHH One of the finest SouthDistinctly minerally Nelson Waimea Nelson Pinot Gris Island viogniers yet. Fleshy,wine with excellent depth of 2009 HHHHH with substantial body,fresh, ripe, citrusy, gently sweet Powerful, Alsace-style pinot strong, ripe peach and apricotflavours and good harmony. gris, fleshy and ripely scented, flavours, slightly oily and spicy,Delicious now. $21.90 with a slightly oily texture and and a creamy, well-rounded deep stone-fruit and spice finish. $21.90 flavours. Deliciously full-bodied, medium-dry, soft and rich. $21.90 (UK, US)Michael Cooper Corey Hall JUDGESWinestate’s New Zealand Co-owner of the Gemeditor. Author of 33 and Harwood Hall brands, Kay Morgantybooks, including the Corey was previously Winestate’s Newinternationally acclaimed senior winemaker for Zealand manager,Wine Atlas of New Matua Valley. Kay is also a highlyZealand and the annual, experienced seniorbest-selling Michael national wine judge.Cooper’s Buyer’s Guideto New Zealand Wines. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 149

NELSON & WAIRARAPAWaimea Nelson Martinborough Renato Nelson ROSEEdel 2009 HHHH Vineyard Chardonnay Chardonnay 2008 HHHHSeductive blend of three 2008 HHHH1/2 Estate-grown at Kina, on the 3 TASTEDaromatic grape varieties - Fragrant, classy bouquet, coast, and barrel-fermented, this 1 AWARDEDriesling (47%), pinot gris (38%) leading into a rich, elegant full-flavoured and mouthfillingand gewurztraminer (15%). palate with ripe grapefruit and wine has good complexity, Martinborough VineyardMouthfilling, rich and slightly nut flavours, excellent delicacy citrusy, nutty notes and a Rose 2009 (375ml) HHH1/2sweet, with concentrated, and depth. Creamy-textured slightly creamy texture. $25 Floral, vibrantly fruity andpeachy, spicy flavours. Works wine, delicious from now Rimu Grove Nelson berryish, with bright, light redwell. $21.90 onwards. $40 (A, US) Chardonnay 2008 HHHH colour, loads of charm and Estate-grown in the Moutere hills a deliciously smooth finish.Waimea Nelson and barrel-fermented, this rich, 100% pinot noir. $20 (A)Gewurztraminer highly flavoured style is peachy,2008 HHH1/2 buttery and toasty. A big wine, PINOT NOIRWeighty (14.5% alc) style, weighty and long. $30 (A, US)described as “slightly hot” by Waimea Nelson 29 TASTEDtwo judges, but offering lots Chardonnay 2008 HHHH 17 AWARDEDof ripe, gingery, well-spiced Grown at Kina and fully barrel- A triumph for the Wairarapaflavour. $21.90 (UK) fermented, a full-bodied, region, where the bumper 2008 generous wine with strong, crop, harvested at the end of aWaimea Nelson Croft Vineyard ripe, citrusy and peachy notably hot, dry summer, hasViognier 2008 HHH1/2 Martinborough Chardonnay flavours and finely integrated, yielded generous, ripe-tastingFleshy, finely balanced, partly 2008 HHHH1/2 nutty oak. $21.90 reds, already highly enjoyable.barrel-fermented style with Elegant, barrel-fermented style Anchorage Reserve Nelsonpeach, lemon and apple with youthful peach, grapefruit Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 Craggy Rangeflavours and a slightly nutty, and nut flavours, showing good Savoury, with peachy, citrusy Te Muna Road Vineyardcrisp, dry finish. $21.90 complexity. Concentrated, flavours and barrel-ferment Martinborough finely balanced and long. Priced complexity. Two judges found Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHHSeifried Winemakers sharply. $24. the oak influence slightly This classy red romped straightCollection Nelson Matahiwi Estate Holly assertive, but the wine, based to a five-star rating from allGewurztraminer 2008 HHH Wairarapa Chardonnay on first-crop vines, shows very panellists. Floral and deeplyMedium-dry style, grown at 2008 HHHH good depth. $22 coloured, it is already delicious,Brightwater, with ripe lychee, Concentrated, with bright Seifried Nelson with a powerful surge ofpeach and spice flavours, yellow colour and strong, Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 ripe, plummy, spicy flavours,moderate acidity and good grapefruit-like flavours, slightly French and American oak- excellent complexity andlength. $23. minerally, buttery, nutty and fermented, crisp, dry and finely finely balanced tannins. Very toasty. Still youthful. $24 balanced, with a subtle seasoning generous style. $39.95 (A, UK)CHARDONNAY of oak and fresh, citrusy, slightly Palliser Estate nutty flavours. $20 (UK) Martinborough Pinot Noir16 TASTED Anchorage Nelson 2008 HHHHH12 AWARDED Chardonnay 2009 HHH Rated highly by all judges, this Vibrantly fruity, fairly fragrant, full-coloured wine isStrong class, with two Palliser Estate straightforward style with a ripe and savoury, with cherryish,Martinborough wines claiming Martinborough slightly creamy texture, peachy, spicy flavours showing excellentthe top awards, but with Chardonnay 2008 HHHH spicy flavours, a hint of toastiness depth and complexity. Firm andseveral other concentrated, Creamy textured, with rich, and decent depth. $18 finely balanced, with a lastingcomplex wines adding depth, ripe, citrusy, peachy flavours Pencarrow Martinborough finish, it’s built to last. $42from both sides of Cook Strait. to the fore, a subtle, biscuity Chardonnay 2009 HHH Pencarrow Martinborough oak influence and excellent Fleshy, with ripe, citrusy, Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHH harmony. $28 (UK) slightly toasty flavours, Irresistibly good buy from Palliser. showing some complexity and Deeply coloured, savoury, warm STAR RATINGS  finesse. From Palliser Estate. and spicy, it’s surprisingly rich and Top value at $15. (A, UK) complex for the price, showingThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Te Mania Reserve Nelson excellent concentration andexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Chardonnay 2008 HHH structure. “Everything in the rightAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Citrusy, slightly spicy wine, place,” enthused one judge. $22professionals and are compared in peer French and American oak-classes by three judges. fermented, with plenty ofCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, flavour and some smoky oaka major mail-order business. complexity. $28 (A, US)CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 158. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).150 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010