Winestate Magazine May June 2010

adelaidegrapevine GRAEME ANDREWSAs you sweep around a narrow curved drive Stuart’s current focus is Sarah’s Sister’s A closer inspection revealed each ‘filletoff Nairne’s Bald Hills Rd, the full visual Sustainable Cafe in Semaphore. ‘Sarah’ side up’ surface was covered with aimpact of Howard Vineyard unfolds. A vista pays homage to revered 19th century light, oily slick. “Perfect,” declared Adam,of tall trees stretches skywards, endless dramatic actress Sarah Bernhardt, whose quickly making for the coolroom, leavingrows of vines roll into the distance and a passion for life still continues to besot my olfactory equipment hyperventilating inbroad, elevated lush green grass terrace him, while ‘sustainable cafe’ refers to a frustration. I had to conjure up the strengthleads to the cellar door and restaurant. new journey into the future of Australia’s of 10 men to resist the temptation to snatch restaurant culture. one and run! Individual tastings, along with red andwhite wine flights married to tasty morsels of Sarah’s Sister’s originally tackled excess Adam, the owner of Harris Smokehouse,complementing canapes, are conducted in kitchen preparation waste and its effective is the eldest son of Richard and Valeriean ancient stone shed. A vast contemporary recycling. Secondly, daily lunch and dinner Harris, who founded Springs Smokedeatery, with stone floor and potted palms, menus were thoughtfully reworked, ensuring Salmon in 1990. He’s the fourth generation tohas been attached at the front. This is they’re ever-changing, moreishly tasty and use carefully developed Harris SmokehousePardalote Terrace, whose name pays procedures fused with traditional techniqueshomage to tiny native birds nesting within redolent with innovative technical skill. from Suffolk, England. He uses onlyfissures along old retaining walls. There were also a lot of additional issues premium-quality, unfrozen Australian raw and clever tweakings that received due fish fillets, free from artificial pigments and Head chef Mark Needle has created a attention. The result’s a clever package taste enhancers, as well as natural timbers,menu best described as casual fine dining, satisfying a discerning clientele. No hair for hot and cold smoking, eschewing the usesubtly constructed to reflect the rustic suits, society fringe dwellers or dreadlocks of synthetic smoke additives in his quest forsetting. House-smoked salmon, along with in sight. Dishes even committed carnivores authenticity. He also leans heavily towardsother specialities, remains strictly within don’t realise are meat-free flow from manual rather than mechanised handling,his personal domain. Dishes like pan- the kitchen, all the while meeting the believing the extra work is worth the effort,seared scallops with sauce vierge and restaurant’s personal agenda of 50 per cent resulting in superior taste.fried vegetable crisps and rabbit ravioli self-sustainability. A bonus achievementwith yabby tails, orange buerre blanc (also Gifford-driven), is the opening of the Regular tastings, highlighting the use ofand rabbit juice make delicious foils for Semaphore Eco Info Exchange at Port different smoking woods, are conductedHoward Vineyard’s food friendly wines. Adelaide Masonic Hall to provide free public in house, allowing the public to make theirExpect exciting presentation with flavours information on achievable, affordable, own subjective judgments - a refreshingembracing subtle complexity that both passive sustainability. So it seems possible deviation from the usual ‘one size fitssurprise and delight. On Sunday, Mark to have a good time and simultaneously all’ approach. Visitors can also viewintroduces a change of pace. Tapas take take care of the world? Sarah’s Sister’s manufacturing activity through an internalthe spotlight. Look for chilli-salted quail with Sustainable Cafe. 117 Semaphore Rd. glass wall. Smoke and mirror games arepan-fried lemon, rainbow trout with green Semaphore; phone (08) 8449 5817. noticeably absent from this establishment.olive tapenade, perhaps Szechuan pepper It’s all about showing they practisesquid with lime mayonnaise or maybe Rich, warm aromatics swirled invitingly exactly what they preach. 37 Main Rd.just share a platter of nibbles. There’s live around the room as Adam Harris dragged Hahndorf; phone (08) 8388 7000;music too. 1 Bald Hills Rd, Nairne; phone trays loaded with thick, freshly smoked www.harrissmokehouse.com.au(08) 8188 0203; www.howardvineyard.com. salmon fillets from the kiln. Dozens of large ovoid batons, almost luminous orange-pink Left: Howard Vineyard, Pardalote Terrace Restaurant. Stuart Gifford has three special claims in colour, lay invitingly before my eyes. Right: Howard Vineyard, berry crepe dessert.to fame in South Australia’s hospitalityindustry. For starters, 32 unbroken years asa successful restaurant chef/proprietor, theability to conceive eclectic business namesthat subtly divert attention from his missionto create only delicious vegetarian cuisineand, finally, the embracing of innovativeconcepts well before they enter mainstreamacceptability. A Gifford restaurant was first tooffer screw cap wines in 1980. Other ideasinclude adding future luminaries, namelyJeffrey Grosset and Petaluma, to wine lists ontheir initial releases, plus the introduction ofdegustation menus long before they becameentrenched as part of contemporary dining. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 51

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOEL cavalo nero, steamed Asian greens and dessert, a Pedro Ximenez-laced trifle served peas with mint and feta are all popular, as is in a traditional painted bowl, that steals the the dedicated tomato menu which features limelight. 154 Melbourne St, South Brisbane; stunning heritage tomatoes of every shape, phone (07) 3844 4757. size and flavour. Ditto the desserts at Peasant, a funky new The room is long and lean, with wide addition to the Barracks complex, which frontage that opens directly out to the is now alive with great dining options at walkway and river and, even on workdays all ends of the market. Libertine owner’s it has a holiday feel. Kilroy divides his time Jamie Webb and Andrew Bataro have between his popular steak house and now created a colourful space and a small this fish-specialist venue, both of which have tapas menu alongside a solid line-up of separate bars that attracts big numbers of wines from Spain, Portugal and Argentina. the suited community after work. Grape varieties native to these regions areThe Brisbane River is one of Brisbane’s best Alchemy, owned by husband and wife explained and phonetically spelled, makingassets and, along the winding reach that team Angelica and Brad Jolly, is another it easy to order even if you don’t know yourruns through the CBD, savvy restaurateurs up-market waterfront restaurant that albarino from your godello. The staff areare making great use of the attractive views continues to delight its large following of also well versed on the subject and happilyand cool breezes. fans with a firmly modern Australian style. recommend matches with the food, all of Brad’s talented kitchen brigade create which is designed for sharing. 61 Petrie Siana (phone (07) 3221 3887) and mini-masterpieces on every plate: think dry Tce, Paddington; phone (07) 3367 8066.Kingsley’s Steak and Crabhouse, sherry risotto with artisan-style wild boar(1300 546 475) are both at 71 Eagle St, and pork sausage, confit rabbit terrine and Gianni in the CBD is now solely in theBrisbane, sit high above the waterline and saffron-infused flathead with new potatoes hands of chef Javier Codina, who is setoffer spectacular views of the Story Bridge and sauteed prawns. to unveil his upgrade of the glamorousand the floodlit cliffs of Kangaroo Point. fine diner. Tablecloths and formality haveAlchemy is further down towards Fortitude Most private dining rooms are tucked been banished and, while the menuValley and features a private dining room away somewhere in the back but not here. is still broadly European with a strongwith a striking vista of the bridge and beyond. The glassed-in room that seats about 40 contemporary slant, Javier’s native cuisine offers sensational views over the Story and Barcelonan roots are showing through Prominently positioned Pier Nine at 1 Bridge and beyond to the cliffs of New in this more relaxed format. The courtyardEagle St became Aria (07) 3233 2555) Farm. 175 Eagle St; phone (07) 3229 3175. out the front is still one of the most tranquillate last year, adding some Sydney slick spots to leisurely lunch away from theto town, and next-door neighbour, John Moving inland and it’s raining Spain in phones and computer screens of theKilroy at Cha Cha Char (07) 3211 9944) Brisbane with the recent openings of Peasant corporate surrounds. There’s also a $50added a second restaurant, Jellyfish, and Granada. Licensing headaches plagued express lunch of two courses availableto the strip at number 175, close to his the opening of Granada, a pleasant little weekdays for the time-poor. 12 Edward St,popular steakhouse. focuses on fish with a tapas bar in the heart of South Brisbane. Brisbane; phone (07) 3221 7655.daily menu of some of the country’s finest. Dark walls and a tiled bar are crying out forEvery day, Jellyfish (07) 3220 2202) offers the small but succinct wine list which owner Left: Jellyfish interior. Centre: Roasted Hervey Bayat least eight varieties to choose from and David Steeden has lovingly prepared. The scallops, Nori butter & soybeans. Right: Braised beefeverything is either fresh that day or not food is light and flavoursome but it’s the short ribs with Thai style salad, ginger, chilli & caramel.available. And the choices don’t end there.Suggestions are made as to how your filletor whole fish is best cooked, and then thereare lots of variations of batters and crumbssuch as curry and saffron batters, parmesancrumbs - which is great with whiting - citruscrumbs and spicy Sichuan pepper. Thenext step is potatoes and accompanyingside dishes and, again, diners are spoilt forchoice. Paris mash, shoestring fries, wholenew potatoes roasted in garlic and oil andminted gnocchi are all options alongside alist of really interesting side dishes. Sauteed52 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINThe brief from the owners, well- There is certainly a revival of the gastropub in South Melbourne. He has taken over whatrespected operators John and Lisa Van in Melbourne, with Barkers in Hawthorn, once was one of the dodgier pubs aroundHaandel, was to “deconstruct the dining The Argo in Prahran, The Grand in Richmond, town and given it a complete makeover,experience” - and if that means focusing The Station in Footscray and The Palace in creating a look that could easily spring outon organic heirloom vegetables, rare South Melbourne (see below), but the Royal of the pages of a lifestyle magazine. Thebreed animals and relaxing what was one Saxon Hotel in Richmond is one gastropub fresh white walls are softened with touchesof Melbourne’s more luxurious beautiful that has been making waves around the of greys and blues and wooden tables andrestaurant spaces, then deconstruction city consistently since it opened about chairs through the cosy dining room. Thereis a good thing. Not only is it good but six months ago. Paul Olynyk and Julian is a large terraced area where it’s easytimely, in a world where provenance Gerner are well-known names around our to lose time, and the front bar is gossiedhas become a catch-cry for many savvy fair city when it comes to owning pubs and up with designer lighting and smart whitediners who are questioning where their putting the right people in them to suit the stools along a sturdy wooden bar.food comes from and how it was raised. market, such as at the recently relaunchedThrough Circa, The Prince, head chef Albert Park and Middle Park hotels. And Luke has created a menu that suits the areaMatt Wilkinson has answered the call the Royal Saxon takes the edginess of and expresses his own signature of qualityand created a new restaurant with a new Richmond and opens it up to a much product served intelligently. The menu hasattitude. A rooftop garden is indicative broader market through providing an earthy, a ‘Seafood Bar’ section with oysters, naturalof the new direction and dishes on the smart environment - think brick finishes with and cooked kilpatrick or in tempura batter,menu carry many of the restaurant’s warm wooden tables and cathedral ceilings fresh prawns in a classic cocktail sauce orown produce: a plate of raw and pickled - with food that is far from pretentious and perhaps a kingfish carpaccio given weightvegetables served with house-made, doesn’t ever compromise on quality and with the addition of goat’s milk feta finishedhouse-smoked yoghurt; house-cured flavour. Starters include pig’s head terrine with ginger dressing. Another section of themeats with carrot and ginger chutney. with tarragon salsa or calamari tubes stuffed menu, ‘From the Grill’, offers different cuts of with lemon, tomato and squid ink. Main beef from different regions and producers, Main courses cover both land and sea courses are generous - try the braised pork and ‘To Share’ is a lovely concept of disheswhile always keeping vegetables a key shoulder with cannellini beans and salsa like roast chicken, whole barramundi orelement on the menu. There’s John Dory verde, or whole snapper with chilli, oregano chateaubriand served with accompanyingwith lettuce and scallop boudin or braised and parsley. The pastas are certainly worthsweet and sour goat with polenta, parsley a look (linguini with vongole) and risotto vegetables and well-finished sauces; theseand white anchovy, and in keeping with (with ricotta, lemon and rosemary) and are wonderful for larger groups. There’swhat seems to be more and more of a the pizzas keep the menu relaxed while no reinvention of any wheels here but thetrend in Melbourne, significant dishes to the flavours remain bold: try the pizza with Mangan brand sits comfortably in this stylishshare - roasted Milawa chicken (for two) bresaola (air-dried beef), olives and goat’s environment. The kitchen is visible throughor jugged rabbit with colcannon (also for cheese and/or the one with sopressa a glass-panelled partition and the waiterstwo) and the freshness of perspective and with slow-roasted onions. 545 Church St, know their stuff about the menu and wine list.combinations continues with ‘Greens & Richmond; phone (03) 9429 5277. It’s a stone’s throw from the CBD and worthGrains’, where a side of toasted grains with a visit if you’re a Mangan fan, or simply wantherbs and labne or Jonella Farm baby corn In a homecoming of sorts, Luke Mangan to welcome him home. 505 City Rd, Southwith smoked salt is the norm. 2 Acland St, has refurbished and reopened the pub, The Melbourne; phone (03) 9699 6410.St Kilda; phone (03) 9536 1122. Palace, into a swanky inner-city gastropub Left & centre: The Palace restaurant and bar. Right: Matt Wilkinson from Circa. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 53

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGWatsons Bay, one of the most tightly held Penne alla arrabiata has become the spagsuburbs in Sydney’s affluent east, isn’t the bol of our times, but a serving of penne allasort of place where most people would look Siciliana reminds you that great dishes can befor a restaurant that boasts that it is the only created with the short pasta when it is teamedall-Sicilian eatery in town. That’s just the first with eggplant, slow-baked ricotta and theof many surprises - all delightful - that lie in freshest tomato sauce. I chose the ravioli alstore at Gusto Bar & Kitchen. Chef/owner granchio al limone - fang-fresh crabmeat andPaolo Patane, although Australian-born, is avocado-filled ravioli spiked with capers anda true son of his ancestral soil and honed lemon. But many regular diners hardly lookedhis considerable skills with a smart lifestyle at the menu before ordering the costolettechoice. He spent the northern hemisphere di agnello con peperonata - fat, grilled lambsummer cooking in one of Sicily’s plushest cutlets from Victoria with lemon vinaigrettehotels, then flew home in October to man served with mixed capsicums.the ranges in some of Sydney’s landmark Tiramisu, like penne alla arrabiata, and his sisters, Anne Cesarano and NinaItalian restaurants, including L’Incontro. has also fallen victim to its own success Milazzo, of the Doltone House restaurants, and travesties of this venerable Sicilian this spectacular tribute to Italian food has Last year Paolo decided to set up on his own favourite are available from Melbourne a tagline of Eat, Drink, Shop, Cook. Theon the site of the once-fashionable Gap Tavern, to Munich. At Gusto, the most enjoyable siblings drew their inspiration from their latewhich finally closed in the late 1990s. The way to finish a meal is with a plate of father, Biaggio Signorelli, one of Sydney’sviews at sunset remain as gorgeous as ever - Paolo’s homage to the three best-known pioneering fruit and vegetable providoresmore so, in fact, now that you can enjoy them desserts from his parents’ home island - and restaurateurs. Executive chef Jamessipping a sulphur-tinged Sicilian wine from real tiramisu, as light as a feather, torta di Viles and chef de cuisine Naomi Lowrythe volcanic slopes of Mt Etna. Gusto is also ricotta (ricotta, poached pear and almond have devised a menu with listings such asopen for breakfast on weekends and $11.90 cake) and cannoli. prosciutto crudo, wild rocket, provoloneis a pittance to pay for eggs royale - poached and ricotta pizza, sous vide pork neck andeggs with slices of smoked salmon served General manager Danny Sibillo is a pearl barley, finger fennel and aniseed brothon slices of Italian bread and finished with specialist in Sicilian wines, even though wine and goat’s cheese and broad bean ravioli.hollandaise sauce. Paolo is very much mine from Italy’s other regions from the Abruzzo Don’t miss the prosecco jelly with pinkhost and pops out regularly from the kitchen to through Campania and Tuscany are well- grapefruit granita for dessert. 48 Pirammahelp his guests with food and wine choices. It’s represented on the wine list. Shop 3, 27 Military Rd, Pyrmont; phone (02) 8571 0616.best to listen closely, too. The bruschetta here Rd, Watsons Bay; phone (02) 9388 8827.isn’t the common chopped tomato version; The Bentley Restaurant & Bar enjoyed itsbruschetta di mare is the speciality at Gusto - Hard by Google’s new Australian head moment in the fashion sun when it opened atoasted Italian bread topped with a mound of office, you won’t need a search engine to few years ago. But the trendy crowd sooncalamari, prawns and mussels. Another starter find Signorelli Gastronomia. Just follow the move on - fast. Time for a revamp and thethat perks up the digestive juices is fungo alle constant stream of people to this multiplex Bentley has reopened with a new decorerbette Mediteranee e tartufo - jumbo field of a food emporium that houses a salumeria by award-winning Melbourne architectmushroom stuffed with aromatic herbs and (for top-quality Italian smallgoods), gourmet Pascale Gomes-McNabb, featuring blackpancetta and finished with black truffles and food store, cooking school, wine shop, wire mesh and glossy chairs, scarlet leatherParmigiano wafers. cheese shop, pizzeria, antipasto bar and benches and American oak tables. Chef trattoria. The brainchild of Paul Signorelli Brent Savage has overhauled the menu, too, changing over 80 per cent of the dishes. It’s hard to choose between mains such as roast spatchcock with sweetcorn polenta, prosciutto and asparagus and slow-cooked duck breast with zucchini flower and hazelnut. Famed sommelier Nick Hildebrandt has designed a far- reaching wine list of over 400 international and domestic wines. 320 Crown St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9332 2344. Left: Gusto bar & kitchen, 1950’s carretto & interior. Right: Gusto’s head chef Paolo Patane.54 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNFinancial crisis? What financial crisis! New The dish is a great foil for an austere and cuisine and decor and seats around 70.restaurants and bars are opening weekly desperately dry Spanish rosado (rose I peer in as the finishing touches are beingin Perth. There is always someone willing wine). Next, potted duck and grape applied and the dining area is roomy andto have a punt at hospitality, even in tough vinaigrette is charcuterie heaven. The charming. The place should be buzzing astimes. Along the Mount Lawley/Highgate sweet and sourness of the vinaigrette you read this. Two doors down from Muststrip alone, there have been three recent works perfectly with the unctuous Wine Bar, a shopfront is papered up andadditions to the busy restaurant area, with shredded duck encased in duck fat, and the word is out that it will soon open as aanother two soon to fling open their doors accompanying thin slices of crusty bread tapas bar - hmmm, more Spanish wineand yet another two in the planning stage. offer the ideal base for a generous slather. and gutsy tucker. A medium-bodied, sweet-fruited Rioja red Clarences, a chic bar, opened two days does the trick with the duck, as it does with Further north in Mt Lawley central, thebefore Christmas and has the locals and the third and last dish. Three small pieces Malt Supper Club is nearly finished aftervisitors flowing in past the unassuming of pork belly arrive squatting in a sizeable a truckload of money has been spent onstreet frontage. Share plates are the dollop of lentil, shallot and sherry mix. The a conversion. It sounds rather posh butattraction here, along with a selection of flavours are well balanced and the sweet neighbours are worried it will while awaydynamite cocktails, beers and cider on pork pieces are lean, crunchy and discreet the early hours as a nightclub rathertap and a small list of wines, imported in flavour (they were obviously once part of than a salubrious place for a quiet drinkand local, all at sensible prices. We stroll a lady piggy and definitely not from a male and supper after a night at the theatre orin on a Monday evening and Jeremy porker with intimate parts intact). movies. We’ll soon see.Prus, part owner/manager, suggestswe try a few tasting plates, and after These three sharing plates average out And then there is Neal Jackson,a refreshing beer drawn from a tap at $15 each and are enough for two of arguably Perth’s most admired chef, who(superior to the bottled stuff) we start with us, although more substantial dishes are is contemplating a new relaxed eatery,a bite of the Mediterranean. Four grilled available for those with an elite athlete’s as well as continuing with his fine-diningsardines are served along with olives and appetite. Clarences has a few distinct areas Jackson’s at 483 Beaufort. He’s lookinga spicy tomato salsa; each plump fish within. The small entrance is carpeted, has forward to a new challenge. The newunleashes our week’s supply of omega 3. banquettes and intimate tables and chairs place won’t be a tapas bar, but will have and is more for serious eating and drinking. a French Indo-Chinese influence. Over Down a few steps to the bar are a couple of other nooks with polished concrete floors many trips to Vietnam and China, Neal’s and cosy seating which are suited to bar love of Oriental cuisine has blossomed snacking and casual drinking. Outside is and, after a slight aberration, at least for a courtyard with decking, wooden and soft Sandgropers, when he was thinking of seating and colourful cushions scattered opening a restaurant in the world’s most here and there. This area attracts the densely populated country, he’s decided gaspers with their drinks, cigarettes and to stay home and do it here. He’s not cigars. Downlighting and candles struggle rushing this new project; he needs to find to light Clarences at night, but the dimness the right premises and Mount Lawley/ adds to the intimacy and cosiness of the Highgate is his preferred area. place. You may need to use some decent specs and the strategically placed candles, Left: Clarences interior and Daniel Mulligan however, to see your way through the making a flaming cocktail. menu and drinks list. The bar is a welcome Right: Neal Jackson. addition to this ribbon of popular inner- suburban hospitality. 566 Beaufort St, Highgate; phone (08) 9228 9474. Towards the Perth end of the dining strip, the Beaufort St Steakhouse at no. 283 (phone (08) 9228 2008) is open after nearly two years of planning, fitting out and final decoration. It’s very smart and should be a winner. Another restaurant at 448 Beaufort will open as this issue goes to the printers. Barolo, as you may expect by the name, is northern Italian in May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 55

winewords L O Ï C L E C A L V E ZSKYE MURTAGHAt 15 and before he had even laid eyes on eight years ago, my palate a sustainable ecosystem. The studya grapevine, French-born Loïc Le Calvez wasn’t used to the level done with the University of Melbourneknew he wanted to be a winemaker - of sweet/sourness often is showing great success and we willalthough perhaps at the time he didn’t found in Aussie wines. Later establish more insectariums in our twoquite imagine his decision would one I learned to enjoy this style other vineyards in Tasmania. We areday see him relocate to the southern if it was well made. It is also also investing in a brand new tradehemisphere. As chief winemaker and quite difficult to find the wastewater treatment plant to reuse thechief operating officer for Taltarni, Loïc level of austerity found in water used at the winery for landscapetoday oversees activity at the winery’s French wines in Australia. irrigation. We are already sustainableextensive vineyards in Victoria’s Pyrenees I have always loved cabernet - with all the water used during theregion, as well as its Clover Hill and Tea and I still do; it’s one of the process being rainwater collected fromTree Vineyards in Tasmania. most distinctive varieties the roofs. We are now reaching a new and difficult to get right. step where we will actually be reclaiming The catalyst to discovering his calling Only a few regions have this used rainwater.was his father’s decision to start up a small the climate to create a truebottle shop in Brittany when Loïc was just cabernet and I believe the Apart from environmental sustainability,11. Over the next few years, a schoolboy’s warm days and cool nights what do you consider to be the othercuriosity about the wine world developed of the Pyrenees do wonders. big challenges facing winemakers ininto a desire to understand exactly how the Australia in the next 10 years?winemaking process worked. What do you consider your In Australia at least, finding a balance most notable achievement between demand and production so Following his studies in wine and law at Taltarni to date? everyone in the wine industry can haveLoïc gained valuable hands-on experience Probably making Taltarni Tache - the most a viable and sustainable business -with a harvest at Chateau d’Yquem in successful sparkling rose in Australia from the grower to the independent1998, followed by a stint as an oenologist over $20 - and making the word ‘tache’ retailer. We must do something aboutconsultant for numerous wineries in a synonym for good sparkling rose. I’m oversupply over the next few years toBordeaux in 1999 and then with Sauternes also proud of the success of Clover Hill in find this balance. After this, we will haveChateau Fonfroide in 2000. Australia in the premium sparkling category. to rebuild the damaged image of our industry overseas. Australia is one of Loïc became part of Taltarni’s long How do you continue to develop your the best wine producing countries in thetradition of French winemakers when he own skills as a winemaker? world - it deserves to find its spot in thejourneyed to Australia in 2001. A vintage By working very closely with my team of sunlight again.in the Pyrenees enabled him to work with two winemakers, with whom we regularlysome New World winemaking processes, discuss ways to improve our wines.along with familiar varieties like cabernet Also by releasing new products likesauvignon and merlot - and was followed the Taltarni Three Monks Fume Blancby a vintage in California’s Sonoma County. - a barrel-fermented sauvignon blancLoïc returned to Taltarni full time in 2002 as which we try to improve by trialling andassistant winemaker, assuming the role of choosing new oak.chief winemaker in 2007. How is Taltarni meeting the challenges During his time at Taltarni the company arising from the call for environmentalhas notched up its fair share of accolades, sustainability within the winemakingincluding a trophy at the Decanter World industry?Wine Awards for the 2004 Taltarni Cabernet Taltarni strongly believes in sustainabilitySauvignon. Loïc was also instrumental in and is active on multiple fronts. TaltarniTaltarni’s reintroduction in 2006 of a fume is a signatory of the National Packagingblanc - a wine which became an icon in Covenant designed to reduce wastageTaltarni’s history almost a decade ago. For throughout the whole industry chain. Wenow at least, France’s loss is most definitely have also established insectariums in ourAustralia’s gain. Pyrenees vineyard. These are designed to provide shelter for beneficial insectsHow have your personal wine tastes and encourage their developmentchanged over the years and do you have throughout the vineyard and createa soft spot for any one particular variety?My palate has certainly developeda lot over the years. Coming from avery conservative French wine industry56 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

What aspect of the winemaking process bar | ristorantegives you the most satisfaction and why?Probably blending. Whether it is different bar | ristorantevarieties, wine regions or even oak tues to fri 12–3 & 6– lateforests, the final blending session is sat 6 – latealways the most exciting as it is the time private & corporate functions welcometo give the most complexity to the wineand make it distinctive. 22 Grote Street, Adelaide tel 08 8410 9332How would you describe your own [email protected] wine collection and what www.auge.com.aucurrently takes pride of place?I’m lucky enough to have a wine collection Autumn Lunch Special*in France, mainly made of French winesand one in Australia which contains what Tuesday - FridayI have collected over the last eight yearshere. In France, I would be most proud of 2 courses $39the few vintages of Chateau d’Yquem I have 3 courses $49collected over the years. As far as Australia,probably a bottle of my wife’s birth year of To see our seasonal menu visitChateau Margaux purchased at auction for www.auge.com.auits sentimental value. *Not valid with any discountsWho has been the most influentialperson in your career to date and what Looking for a relaxing space for after workwas their best piece of advice? drinks?Many people have been important in mycareer but the main person would be my Enjoy a glass of italian wine, italian beer or a cocktaildad, who gave me the passion for wine with some light snacks from our antipasto bar menu orwhich started it all for me when I was even one of our hand made pasta dishes.young. He has always supported me in mychoices, even moving to Australia, which Enjoying a theatre performance or a concertwasn’t too popular with my mum (they still nearby?wonder when I’m coming back after eightyears). His best advice was for me to do Why not reserve a table pre or post theatre.what I believe is right and do it with passion.What’s the most memorable bottle ofwine you’ve ever consumed?I’ve had a lot of good wines during manygreat occasions. I guess recently, I openeda bottle of 1998 Dom Perignon which wasextremely good. We drank it with closefriends and family to celebrate the fact mywife Simone was in remission from cancer.You couldn’t find any better circumstance.Describe your ideal food and wine matchfor a winter’s night.You can’t beat a homemade boeufbourguignon slowly cooked for three-fourhours in winter. A beautiful glass of cabernetrather than pinot noir to coat the palate andmarry the heavy flavours of the dish. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 57

We’re proud of our family www.hahnbar ossa.comhistory with it’s strong linksto the Barossa Region; this Phone: (08) 8562 3002 Fax: (08) 8562 1111 Email: [email protected] reflected in the way we TRADE AND EXPORT ENQUIRIES: Erica Babbage Mobile +61 437 130 672grow our grapes and makeour wine. Winery - Neil Hahn Mobile 0408 828 536 or +618 8562 3002“Because we’re makingwine of the best quality,we start by growing thebest quality grapes.Using techniquesdeveloped during sixgenerations of viticulturalexperience, we pruneand nurture our vines toproduce the low-yield,highgrade fruit fromwhich we create ourwine. From vine to wine,we strongly believe inthe importance of ourpersonal involvementand supervision.”Over the last few years wehave changed our focusmarkets and now to reflectthis, we are in the processof changing our Brandingto “Neil Hahn Wines”. Thefirst wines under the newlook labels are proudlydisplayed on our website.

the wine & spirit insiderMay/June 2010 Issue 111 FREE COPYwIN TiHnISteISrSUEbeers,new releasesANDTop 40BEST WINE BUYS UNDER $20 THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

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64 TASTED30 AWARDEDWINTER BEERSA tough, but fair, tasting result with our judges taking no INTERNATIONALprisoners, but isn’t that what you expect from our blind ALEtastings where reputation means nothing and the qualityis in the glass? Winter is for sipping flavoursome beers, 5 TASTEDnot glugging, so please enjoy these recommendations. 2 AWARDED Staleness is always an issuePALE ALE AUSTRALIAN with these internationals. WHEAT BEER Check the use by date - best7 TASTED is fresh! Yeast-driven beers3 AWARDED 3 TASTED are more apparent with the 2 AWARDED overseas versions.Overall, this group lacked somefreshness. “Not expected in Small but good result with Gavroche Specialite FranceAustralian pales,” said one judge. these two nice performers. Biere Sur Lie HHH1/2 Interesting aromas and flavours,Bridge Road Brewers Matilda Bay Brewing Co Coopers Brewery with an almost mocha-like noseBeechworth Bling India Redback Australia Extra Strong Australia and flavours of chocolate andPale Ale HHHH Wheat Beer HHHH Vintage Ale 2009 HHHH vanilla. Dry hop finish.Deep amber colour with lovely Bright golden beer with a Lovely bright colour, good Samuel Adamsbutterscotch/caramel aromas persistent head and delicate persistent head, sweet hoppy/ Boston Lager HHHand subtle floral notes. Rich citrus aromas and flavours caramel aromas and a big, Fresh, hoppy aromas andand malty in the mouth, with a threaded through with subtle flavoursome mouthful of sweet pleasant, malty flavours withlovely lingering aftertaste. clove-like characters. malt and dry hops. subtle hops and nice dry finish. Bridge Road BrewersBoston’s Mill Australia Cascade Brewing Co Beechworth CelticPale Ale HHH1/2 Blonde Original Tasmania Red Ale HHHVery good fragrant honeyed/ Wheat Beer HHH Floral and chocolaty on thehoppy aromas and a light, malty Spirity alcoholic nose and nose and a big, malty palatepalate with some grassy/fruity delicately flavoured palate with a big, hoppy finish.characters from the hops. showing subtle hints of cloves. James Squire Australia Golden Ale HHHBridge Road Brewers AUSTRALIAN ALE Clean, dry malt bouquet andBeechworth Pale Ale HHH a hoppy palate with a slightlySweet fruity/estery aromas 7 TASTED sweet finish.with loads of caramel and maltand a sweet malty palate. 3 AWARDED Mixed bag of ‘hoppy’ ales with more interest, but some lacked balance or were too astringent or sweet. A few others showed a marginal level of oxidation. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 61

WINTER BEERSDARK & UK ALES Old Speckled HenBLACK BEER English Fine Ale HHH 6 TASTED Subdued molasses nose11 TASTED 4 AWARDED and fruity palate with a long,3 AWARDED lingering, sweet finish. Solid class of flavoursome,Some yeast problems here. well-made beers. “This is not“There were nail polish and for refreshing drinking, but forapple-like aldehyde issues,” warm, cuddly feelings overnoted one judge. winter,” said one judge. The British have access to “floor”Samuel Adams malted characters which givesUSA Black Lager HHH1/2 unique character.Nice clean roasted malt aromasand attractive palate withcomplex toasty/smoky flavoursand a long, lingering finish.Maisel’s Weisse Leffe Belgian Brune HHH1/2Dunkles German Dunkles Big malty/caramel nose andHefe-Weissbier HHH1/2 solid palate with fruit cake-likeEstery nose - smells of malts flavours and an attractive long,and hops with some wheat drying finish.notes. Sweet palate - tastesfruity with a caramel element. Fuller’s 1845Matilda Bay Brewing English Ale HHHCo Dogbolter Reserve According to one judge, this aleAustralia Dark Lager HHH “balances ‘bigness’ with ‘zing’ “!Earthy bouquet and delicate but Floral nose and molasses palate.complex flavours with a sweet,malty finish. BELGIAN & BELGIANUK NITROGENISED STYLE BEERS2 TASTED 10 TASTED 4 AWARDED1 AWARDEDQuirky style! Fuller’s ESB English “The more alcohol the moreWexford Irish Style Crème Champion Ale HHHH1/2 sweetness you should see toAle Creme Ale HHH1/2 Lovely dark copper colour balance it out,” said one judge.Good creamy head and and gorgeous honeyed/malty “Generally sugar is balancedestery nose smelling of aromas. Refreshing and by some bitterness.” Some,malt and caramels. Rich and flavoursome palate with lifted however, showed a touch offruity in the mouth, with lovely yeasty/hop characters and a unbalanced sweetness.lingering bitterness. long, hoppy finish. Belhaven Wee Heavy Kwak Belgian Ale HHH1/2 Scottish Ale HHH Smells like a spicy fruit Brugge Tripel Dark mahogany beer with a cake, tastes of rich caramel Belgian Ale HHH nutty, yeasty bouquet and toffees and has an excellent Lively number with some light, flavours of fruit loaf, cashews malt/hop balance. grainy aromas and a generous and molasses. malt sweetness on the palate.JUDGES Simon Sellick David Bowley Stephen Nelson Former head brewer of Technical auditor for Brewing partner in Port Dock Hotel for five the Australian Wine Brewboys, and beer years. Judge at local and & Brandy Corporation consultant. Also beer national beer shows. (AWBC). Has previous educator at Regency Tafe Also a beer educator for experience as a and beer judge at the Fosters Australia and winemaker at Simeon Australian International currently working as a McGuigan in Loxton and Beer Awards. beer consultant. also Orlando Wyndham. Conducted a vintage in Burgundy in 2003.62 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tasting Cascade Brewing Co Smooth & Rich Tasmania Stout HHHHH Beautiful nose with layers of dark chocolate, caramel and mocha and a touch of balsamic. Traditional velvety, earthy palate. Described by one judge as “soft and cuddly”. Nail Brewing Oatmeal Australia Stout HHH1/2 Smells of toffee and Dutch licorice. Tastes of treacle and molasses and has a lovely luscious viscous mouthfeel. Sinha Sri Lanka Stout HHH1/2 Thick, sweet and simple, with lovely leathery/Vegemite aromas and a long, lingering molasses palate.Gribousine Belgian Brune Chimay Blue Cap Belgian Coopers Brewery Australia Bridge Road Brewersde Malonne HHH Peres Trappistes HHHH Best Extra Stout HHHHH Beechworth Imperial OakLight candied/wheat nose and Interesting pumpernickel/dark Very attractive sweet Aged Robust Porter HHHlightweight palate with savoury rye bread-like aromas and a big, commercial style of stout with Dark and licoricey on the nosecomplexity and a sweet note. full-bodied, sweet/yeasty palate banana/spice/chocolate aromas and thick and syrupy in the with malty/herbaceous flavours. and full-bodied toasty/malty mouth, with tangy citrus notes.ABBEY & flavours with a lovely lingering,TRAPPIST BEER New Norcia drying finish. Abbey Ale HHH1/24 TASTED Attractive honeyed floral nose THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS3 AWARDED and full-bodied wheaty/yeasty palate with pleasant, subtleSome excellent examples of hop characters.flavoursome beers, wherethe balance of sweetness and PORTERbitterness is matched by higher & STOUTalcohol. “These are for sippingand savouring,” said one judge. 9 TASTED 5 AWARDEDChimay Red Cap BelgianPeres Trappistes HHHHH Porters should be browner,Beautiful dark copper beer that slightly lighter and malty, and thesmells of honey, leatherwood stouts darker and fuller-flavoured.and molasses. Rich and soft Solid class of well made, nicelypalate with mouthfilling sweet/ aromatic, complex beer withbitter flavours. “A meal in itself,” differing characteristics.said one judge.Brian Miller Mark Braby The Duckstein Brewery atSales and Marketing Guest services Saracen Estates in the heartManager for Catene manager at the Adelaide of the Wilyabrup region bringsd’Italia, consults to Entertainment Centre. the best of both worlds toseveral Australian Has spent 25 years inwineries and is a hospitality, including Margaret River.member of the Export 10 years judgingTasting Panel of the amateur brewing shows. phone: (08) 9755 6000Australian Wine & Past president of the 3517 Caves Road, WilyabrupBrandy Corporation. Adelaide Beer Club. Margaret River WA 6285 www.duckstein.com.au www.saracenestates.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 63

273 TASTED152 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESSome surprises in this tasting, with merlot and pinot noir Shanahans The Littlecategories performing well. Also, there were some great results Rascal Adelaide Hillsfor shiraz, cabernet, chardonnay and riesling. Lots to like here and Arneis 2009 HHHlots to choose from. Austere style - still young and smelling of peaches and pears with almond notes. Needs time. $30SPARKLING Taylor Ferguson Sirromet Granite Zonte’s Footstep Sirromet 820 Sparkling Shiraz Belt Sparkling PV Sea Mist Langhorne Above Granite Belt13 TASTED Cabernet NV HHH 2008 HHH Creek Verdelho Verdelho 2008 HHH7 AWARDED Spicy plum bouquet with Fresh primary fruit 2009 HHHH Full, ripe melon bouquet a savoury edge, followed with a white peppery Perfumed, spicy varietal with some cheesy/Two distinct styles: by a cream cake-like lift. Some sweetness. nose and a mouthful of biscuity notes. Nicethe young and fresh palate. $9.99 Pleasant quaffer. $20 crisp dry white flavours palate balance. Good- sometimes lacking that are quite savoury quaffer. $17complexity -and the Taylor Ferguson Somerled Methode with a chalky edge and acomplex and yeasty Sparkling Sauvignon Champenoise clean, dry finish. $15.99 SAUVIGNONand sometimes Blanc NV HHH Adelaide Hills De Bortoli Sacred BLANCoverdeveloped. “In Sherbety tropical Sparkling Pinot Noir Hill Unwooded & BLENDSthe aged styles the characters to the nose and 2008 HHH Colombardpreparation of base wine a very fruity palate - on the Slight salmon tinge, Chardonnay 17 TASTEDis the major criterion to sweeter side. $9.99 clean, creamy nose and 2009 HHH 6 AWARDEDcreate the best sparkling Balgownie Premium fresh, lively, drier-style Clean, well-made winefor longevity,” said one. Cuvee Brut NV HHH palate. $28 with plenty of fresh A number of easy-drinking Pleasant, delicate white peach-like fruit. commercial styles with anDelatite Polly aromatics and a OTHER WHITE Crisp quaffer. $7.50 extra dimension of flavour,Sparkling flavoursome, sparkling VARIETALS Trentham La but the rest were eitherGewurztraminer palate - a little sharp but & BLENDS Famiglia Vermentino too neutral or green acid2008 HHHH a crowd-pleaser. $19 2009 HHH in character.Delicate nutty/yeasty 15 TASTED Fresh ferment aromasnose with musky 6 AWARDED and nicely textured palate Somerledtouches. Zippy palate with a simple range of Steeplechaseshows tart flavours Lots of diversity. Great flavours. Nice! $16 Adelaide Hillswith a savoury edge. to see the different Jane Brook Isis Sauvignon BlancExcellent style. Has varietals like arneis and Vineyard Western 2009 HHHlength and balance. $30 vermentino coming Australia Viognier Floral/citrus aromas and through and some nice 2009 HHH nicely balanced, austereBrown Brothers results from verdelho. Subtle apricot characters citrus palate. Heaps ofMilawa Patricia on quite a pungent nose. flavour. $20Whitlands Pinot Noir Big, ripe, nicely balancedChardonnay Brut palate. Good style. $24 Haselgrove Bella2005 HHHH Vigna PremiumDeveloped toasty Selection Adelaidechardonnay aromas - Hills Sauvignonvery complex - with Blanc 2009 HHHa perfectly complete Broad, pungent stylepalate of aged flavours with a delicate spicy lift.and fine acid to balance. Mid-weight palate withAt its peak. $44.90 crisp, dry flavours. $24 Kettle Lane Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Soft green melon nose and alert, flavoursome, fruit salad palate with a long, drying finish. $16.9964 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER



Poverty Hill Rookery Kangaroo Eden Valley Riesling Island Riesling 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH Fragrant and floral Full-on, sweet, pungent on the nose. Tart and varietal with amazingly green in the mouth, floral fragrances and with excellent varietal intense lime flavours. $18 expression, balance, Schild Estate intensity, length, weight, Barossa Riesling texture … the lot! $20 2008 HHH Harbord Clare Valley Lovely floral/citrus style Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 with lots of acid and Aromatic floral bouquet. starting to show toasty, Tight palate with complex bottle age. $16 crisp, subtle varietal Jim Barry Watervale characters of limes and Riesling 2009 HHH green apples. Slight Austere aperitif style. astringency. $14 Excellent for further ageing. Lime aromas and crisp citrus flavours. $14.95Scarpantoni Pedler Wild Oats Kettle Lane SEMILLONCreek McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc Tasmanian Riesling & BLENDSSauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH1/22009 HHH Elegant and well- Interesting funky/floral/ 9 TASTEDZesty, herbaceous fruit structured, with nice citrus kerosene bouquet. Thearomas and lightweight fruit showing leafy edges. funky characters carry 4 AWARDEDacid palate with lingering Nice, uncomplicated through to the palatelychee flavours. $13.99 drink. $18.99 and are underpinned by The best here wereTaylor Ferguson lime/minerality. “Unusual very good, offering goodPremium Selection PINOT characters for a riesling each-way bets of drinkMarlborough GRIGIO/GRIS but it works.” $16.99 now or later possibilities,Sauvignon Blanc De Bortoli Windy showing the value of2009 HHH 8 TASTED Peak King Valley semillon. Others werePunchy tropical fruit 1 AWARDED Riesling 2009 HHHH simply too acidic.bouquet and austere, Crisp, lively, well-lemon rind style of Very disappointing! Apart balanced varietal that’s The Wine Society Niche Westernpalate with a nice clean from no discernable lovely drinking now or Premium Selection Australia Semillonfinish. $14.99 difference between the in a few years. Tropical/ Clare Valley Riesling Sauvignon Blanc two styles, the level of floral aromas and intense 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH winemaking expertise lime juice flavours. Delicate citrus/floral “You’d think it was a was quite ordinary. nose with a marzipan classic NZ style,” said 3-5 $14.90 lift. Tight lime palate, one judge. Very grassy/ Zonte’s Footstep crisp and dry, with a fine green pea/lantana nose. Doctoressan Di mineral texture. $12.99 Simple palate with nice Largo Langhorne range of green flavours Creek Pinot Grigio and crisp acid. $14.95 2009 HHH Attractive spicy, Peter Simic perfumed nose and Editor/publisher Winestate flavoursome dry white Magazine. More than 30 years’ palate with nice texture experience in the wine industry. and structure. $15.99 Formerly founding publisher of a US wine magazine, manager RIESLING of the SA Wine Information Bureau, and wine educator with 14 TASTED Regency College of TAFE in 8 AWARDED SA. Peter is also a regular wine commentator on national radio Some excellent rieslings and television programs. with nice flower and spice characters, but also a number with oxidative issues from early development.66 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSaddler’s Creek Capercaillie Matilda’s Vineyard Punt Road Napoleone Jane BrookWines Reserve Cuillin Hunter Valley Western Australia VineyardsYarra Valley Shovelgate VineyardHunter Semillon Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay Western Australia2003 HHHH 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH ChardonnayAmazing for its age. Big, toasty oak lift to Subtle, toasty melon Flinty nose and great 2009 HHHLovely toasty/honeyed the nose and big, full- nose and nicely length of delicate yet Lovely tropical bouquetnose with citrus notes. bodied, oaky palate with balanced fruit/oak intense tropical fruit and nicely texturedBeautifully expressive, lovely layers of citrus, flavours with nice flavours. Drink soon! $25 creamy butterscotchbuttery palate with so melon, tropical fruit and mouthfeel and drying Heggies Eden Valley palate. $35much complexity. At its toasty characters. $23 finish. 3-5 $35 Chardonnaypeak. $36 2008 HHH Thomas Hardy Wines Mistletoe Reserve Saddler’s Creek Fuller style with FamilyTraditionDe Bortoli Hunter Valley Wines Reserve Hunter gorgeous toasty oak, Padthaway UnwoodedSacred Hill Semillon Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay buttery malo and tropical/ ChardonnayChardonnay 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 melon fruit. $26.95 2008 HHH2009 HHH1/2 Reserved aromas - flinty Buttery melon bouquet Very developed for itsNutty, flinty, citrus nose and citrusy with a hint of and rich, complex palate Wild Oats age, with nice purity ofand well-balanced dry oak. Considerable depth with lovely honeyed Chardonnay fruit underneath the nutty/white flavours. Good of tropical/melon/citrus melon overtones. Toasty 2009 HHH buttery characters. $21example of this classic flavours. Great aperitif on the finish. $36 Citrus and melon aromasAussie blend. $7.90 style. 5+ $30 lift off the nose. Palate Sam Miranda Cellar Box Stallion delicate and buttery with Door Release KingWestern Range Niche Western The Enclosure tropical flavours. $18.99 Valley ChardonnayWines Lot 88 Australia Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula Somerled 2008 HHHWestern Australia 2008 HHHH Chardonnay Steeplechase Nice complexity ofSemillon Sauvignon Sweaty, passionfruit-like 2008 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills peach and guava aromasBlanc 2009 HHH characters on the nose Delicate flinty/toasty Chardonnay and well-made palateSweaty, pungent and tight citrus/honeydew aromas and sweet, fruit- 2009 HHH with lovely flavourstyle that needs food. melon flavours. Funky driven flavours with nice Candied/toffee aromas spectrum. $28Plenty of asparagus/ and different, with a nicely toasty oak balance. $25 and interesting range ofherbaceous fruit. Nice textured palate. $14.95 fruit flavours with some Western Range Wineslong finish. $14.95 Dawson’s Patch residual sugar. $24 Limited Release Perth Botham Merrill Reserve Yarra Valley Hills ChardonnayCHARDONNAY Willis 25th Chardonnay 2009 HHH Anniversary Limited 2007 HHH1/2 Well-made, elegant27 TASTED Edition McLaren Refined nose with muted drink with good varietal19 AWARDED Vale Coonawarra peach/melon bouquet. expression and long Chardonnay Toasty development on flavours. $38.95Very solid class with lots 2007 HHHH palate but freshness isof recommendations Well-aged style that maintained. $26 ROSEand a move to the more needs food! Good depthvibrant mid-weight style. of tropical fruit with a Trentham Murphy’s 9 TASTED“The oak use here is citrusy backbone. Nicely Lore Chardonnay 3 AWARDEDrefined, with lots of integrated oak. Remains 2009 HHHrestraint,” said one judge. fresh and vibrant. $29 Delicate, estery peach A number of these had“We haven’t been known bouquet and clean, dry red additions or slightfor this in the past so this Pepper Tree Hunter enjoyable varietal oxidation but neverthelessis a good move.” Wrattonbully flavours. $10 there were some nice Orange Chardonnay quaffers on offer. 2009 HHH1/2 Governor Robe Delicate floral-like Selection Unwooded aromas but a full- Chardonnay flavoured palate with 2009 HHH good depth and intensity White peaches and of fruit flavours. $18 nectarines on the nose and pleasant peaches and cream flavours. $15Stephen John Steve Warrick JUDGESOwner/winemaker of Wine consultant. FormerlyStephen John Wines. More sales and marketing David Bowleythan 30 years’ winemaking manager for the Hamilton Technical auditor forexperience. Has judged Wine Group. 10 years’ the Australian Wineat Adelaide, National, and experience working in & Brandy CorporationBarossa Wine Shows. McLaren Vale, Coonawarra (AWBC). Has previousRegular Winestate panellist and the Adelaide Hills. Has experience as aand chairman of judges at judged at the Adelaide, winemaker at Simeonthe Winestate Wine of the McLaren Vale and Hobart McGuigan in Loxton andYear Awards. wine shows. also Orlando Wyndham. Conducted a vintage in Burgundy in 2003. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 67

NEW RELEASES Mount Hurtle Punt Road Zonte’s Footstep Western Range South Australia Napoleone Vineyards Canto Di Lago Wines Goyamin Pool Rose 2009 HHH Yarra Valley Pinot Langhorne Creek Western Australia Fresh, estery, sweet Noir 2008 HHH Sangiovese Barbera Old Vine Grenache cherry aromas and Well-made wine with 2008 HHH 2007 HHH simple floral flavours. nice integration of Abundant sweet primary Simple style with ripe, Would be great with fruit/nut aromas and fruit characters of Ribena lolly-like berry fruit with food. $8 light-bodied strawberry and raspberries. No nice soft tannins and palate. $28 obvious oak. $18.99 chewy oak finish. $19.95 PINOT NOIR OTHER RED Rocland Estate MERLOT 10 TASTED VARIETALS Ass Kisser South 5 AWARDED & BLENDS Australia Fine Red 10 TASTED Wine 2007 HHH 7 AWARDED Pleasant surprise, with 20 TASTED Big, spicy, cranberry/ some very well made 5 AWARDED raspberry aromas and an Solid class with lots of wines showing lovely interesting spicy/sweet vibrant fruit wines showing varietal characters. Difficult group to judge oak palate. $10 good drying tannins to cut But there were some with the diversity of the fruit sweetness. very poor examples too. varietals. Judges’ personal GRENACHE preferences are a slight & BLENDSWild Oats Rose Robert Oatley factor but overall too2009 HHH Mornington many wines showed poor 6 TASTEDSubtle cherry aromas Peninsula Pinot Noir winemaking or poor site 4 AWARDEDand nicely balanced, 2009 HHHH selection for grape quality.flavoursome dry palate. Youthful wine with good A few showed the way! Solid class of flavoursomeGood quaffer. $18.99 cellaring potential. Lifted wines which, as oneTrentham La aromas of spices and De Bortoli Deen Vat judge said, “Give youFamiglia Sangiovese strawberries. Excellent 1 Durif 2008 HHH more bang for your buck”.Rose 2009 HHH spicy/herbaceous flavour Deep purple/red wineExcellent translucent length and depth. $27.99 with solid red berry Yelland & Pappspink summer wine with nose and very fruity Devote Barossa Valleydelightful cherry fruit Brangayne of palate. Some new oak. Old Vine Grenachefreshness. $14 Orange Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH 2006 HHHH 3-5 $12.90 Real classic Barossa Deep, brooding style grenache with loads of that smells earthy - like Bleasdale T&M voluptuous raspberry the forest floor. Lovely McLaren Vale fruit and spicy oak. The sweet fruit flavours and Langhorne Creek palate has length, depth tight tannin structure. Tempranillo Malbec and texture. Excellent Lovely drinking now or 2008 HHH wine! $30 keep it! 3-5 $27 Fresh, plummy fruit with hints of menthol and Matilda’s Vineyard vanilla bean and solid Dowie Doole G&T Smith & Western Australia raw oak. Fleshy in the McLaren Vale Hooper Reserve Pinot Noir mouth. $24 Garnacha Tempranillo Wrattonbully Merlot 2009 HHH 2009 HHH 2006 HHHH Complex nose of rhubarb Chambers Soft, rich and generous One for the cellar. and beetroot. Very oaky Rosewood Vineyards but the powerful chocolaty Vibrant, earthy and spicy, palate but good pinot Rutherglen Durif oak overshadows the with good integration of fruit expression. $35 2008 HHH fruit - for now. Cellar it. fruit, oak and acid and a Smells like a beetroot drying tannin finish. Warramate Yarra salad! Intense, meaty 5+ $25 Has a certain elegance. Valley Pinot Noir palate with lively, Rocland Estate 2008 HHH sugar-sweet flavours. Barossa Valley 3-5 $39.95 Good integration of spicy Grenache 2008 HHH Pepper Tree varietal fruit and sweet 5+ $16 Smells like a musk stick Wrattonbully Merlot oak. Flavoursome, with a and tastes of fruit cake 2008 HHH1/2 drying finish. $25 and chocolate sauce. Black olive nose Flavoursome wine. $22 with undergrowth characters, and nice concentration of spicy blackcurrant flavours. Well balanced. $1868 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingBrown Brothers Smith & Hooper Bremerton Tamblyn Rymill mc2Milawa Vineyard Wrattonbully Merlot Langhorne Creek CoonawarraLimited Release 2008 HHH Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet SauvignonVictoria Merlot Lifted berry aromas Malbec Merlot Merlot Cabernet2006 HHH1/2 with a licorice 2008 HHH1/2 Franc 2006 HHHConcentrated jammy fruit undercurrent. Sweet- Voluptuous, ripe Firm style with goodnose and nice balance scented cassis/licorice blackberry fruit with a hint backbone of fruit andof tobacco/blackcurrant/ palate. 3-5 $17.95 of mint on the nose, and oak. Developing nicely.spicy flavours. Quite a huge, porty palate with Many more years to go.earthy, with good CABERNET good flavour depth. $18tannins. $29.90 BLENDS Brookland Valley 3-5 $18 Verse 1 Margaret 17 TASTED River Cabernet Brookman Wines Merlot 2008 HHH Cool Sands McLaren 8 AWARDED Roses and violets on Vale Cabernet the nose and fleshy/ Merlot 2009 HHH Good class with some supple palate with Very young. Lifted, Taylors Jaraman nice wines showing a lovely fresh cabernet/ spicy cabernet nose and Clare Valley backbone of fruit and violet flavours. $20 medium-weight palate Coonawarra oak. However, a few Scarpantoni Estate with stone-fruit flavours. Cabernet Sauvignon were simply too green Reserve McLaren 2008 HHHHH and herbaceous so the Vale Cabernet 3-5 $14.90 Minty green nose with question has to be asked Sauvignon Shiraz a slight medicinal lift. about crop thinning and 2008 HHH CABERNET Well-structured cool canopy management. Very mature ageing SAUVIGNON climate palate with nose and ripe and fleshy lovely complexity ofHandpicked palate with some drying 34 TASTED bright cabernet fruit andDominique Portet oak. $36 18 AWARDED fresh oak and a firm acidSelectionYarra Valley “An excellent class,” finish. $29.95Merlot 2007 HHH Robert Oatley agreed the judges. The Handpicked PeterVery smoky. Very different. Margaret River ‘08 vintage was difficult, Douglas SelectionGood food wine. Mudgee Cabernet with two distinct styles CoonawarraSome earthy/developed Merlot 2008 HHH from the southern Cabernet Sauvignonplum and beetroot Ripe, fleshy black fruit states - one before 2006 HHHHHcharacters. $19.90 characters with some the heatwave and one Excellent, elegant style - herbaceous elements. after. There were some holding up very well andSaddler’s Creek Excellent flavours; good excellent ‘07s and some with many years aheadWines Reserve length. $25.99 superb ‘06s and ‘05s. of it yet. Has complexity,Hunter Valley Merlot Tatachilla Partners “A pleasure to taste.” oak, mint, blackcurrant2007 HHH Cabernet Shiraz and bottle age - the lot!Leaner style with good 2008 HHHcellaring potential. Fresh plums and 3-5 $19.90Toasty menthol nose cranberry-like varietaland solid varietal Skillogalee Basket fruit with smoky oak to Pressed Clare Valley balance and showing aflavours. 3-5 $42 The Cabernets slight medicinal lift. $12Ballast Stone 2006 HHHHSteeple Jack South Vibrant red wine withAustralia Merlot lovely depth of minty2008 HHH cabernet fruit lifted byEarthy/spicy number some excellent sweetwith restrained plummy oak. Warming alcoholfruit and cedary oak. finish. 5+ $25.50Very pleasant. $10 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 69

NEW RELEASES Punt Road Napoleone Thomas Hardy Wines VineyardsYarra Valley Family Tradition Cabernet Sauvignon Padthaway Cabernet 2008 HHHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH Solid tarry oak and cassis Stylish wine with lifted fruit nose. Great palate varietal fruit and lots with beautiful oak/fruit of blackberries on the in perfect balance and a tight palate. Some light lovely creamy texture in oak. $21 the mouth. $28 Jane Brook Edwards Margaret Shovelgate Vineyard River Cabernet Western Australia Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH Leafy Ribena/ Big, rich cassis fruit blackcurrant fruit - very mingles with cedary cool climate. Lifted, tobacco oak. Good cool herbaceous nose and climate style. Excellent excellent, flavoursome structure. $35 palate with spicy new oak. $35 Poverty Hill Eden Valley Cabernet Bleasdale Mulberry Sauvignon 2007 HHHBrown Brothers Tree Langhorne Handpicked Peter Big, ripe cabernet, with Thomas HardyMilawa Patricia Creek Cabernet Douglas Signature excellent cassis fruit Wines Thomas’Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon Series Coonawarra sitting on top of some Trek McLaren ValeSauvignon 2007 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon cedary oak. $24 Padthaway Shiraz2005 HHHHH Well-balanced, ripe, 2006 HHH1/2 Cabernet SauvignonIntense dark varietal porty style with Complex ripe varietal Saddler’s Creek 2008 HHHHfruit, charred oak and excellent integration of fruit nicely integrated Wines Bluegrass Big plum/blackcurrant liftlovely age characters all stone-fruits and cedary with toasty oak. Good Langhorne Creek to the nose with a touchseamlessly integrated oak. High acid and oak obvious on the firm Cabernet 2007 HHH of candy oak. Lovelyon nose and palate. warming alcohol on the finish. 3-5 $69.90 Intensely flavoured. spice-driven, jammyDrinking well now or finish. 3-5 $18 Lifted oak/cassis nose. palate. Drying oak finish.keep for further ageing. De Bortoli Deen Vat 9 Lovely long palate Cabernet Sauvignon with good acid/tannin 3-5 $17.50 3-5 $55.90 2008 HHH1/2 backbone. $30 Grant Burge Lifted fresh, minty Balthasar Barossa cabernet fruit - very Studley Park Shiraz Viognier stylish. Elegant palate Cabernet 2006 HHH 2007 HHHH - excellent flavour and Dense stewed fruit/oak Smells of plums and structure with tight new nose. Lovely sweet fruit/ apricots with a light oak. $12.90 mocha oak palate. At its peppery lift. Beautifully peak. $25 constructed palate with Pepper Tree great depth of sweet Wrattonbully Rymill Coonawarra fruit and some ‘serious’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon oak. $40 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHH 2008 HHH Elegant cabernet fruit, Muted dark berry fruit lovely fresh oak and high nose and tight palate with acid. Very stylish and lovely cool climate fruit developing nicely. $28 and excellent oak. $18 SHIRAZ Brangayne of Orange Zonte’s Footstep BLENDS Cabernet Sauvignon Avalon TreeWehl’s Mount 2007 HHHH Langhorne Creek 7 TASTEDBenson Vineyards Dark chocolaty nose Cabernet 2008 HHH 6 AWARDEDCabernet Sauvignon with good concentration Reserved black cherry aromas and pleasant Shiraz is such a good sweet fruit flavours blender with its with drying oak finish. voluptuous sweet fruit making it an ideal partner 3-5 $18.99 for the more angular cabernet or merlot.2007 HHHHH of blackcurrant fruit.Dark and chocolaty on Ripe, full-flavouredthe nose, with hints of palate with solidblack fruits underneath. backbone of cassis fruit.Excellent palate, with A keeper. 5+ $35intense blackcurrant andblackberry flavours andfirm tannins. Give it moretime. 5+ $2070 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingAngullong Fossil Western Range Dowie DooleHill Orange Shiraz Wines Lot 88 California RoadViognier 2008 HHHH Western Australia McLaren Vale ShirazElegant blend. Great Shiraz Grenache 2008 HHHHHconcentration of 2007 HHH Super-ripe blockbuster ofblackcurrant/plum fruit Smoky/savoury bouquet a wine. Dark chocolateshowing a confectionery and vibrant cassis/plum and raisined fruit onnote. Soft oak tannins and palate with good oak and the nose and a hugelovely mouthfeel. $20 warming alcohol. $14.95 concentration and lengthJim Barry Clare Red of raspberry fruit andShiraz Cabernet SHIRAZ creamy oak with a chewy2006 HHH1/2 2009 - 2008 oak finish. 5+ $35Spicy/earthy wine -balanced and elegant. 32 TASTED Fox Creek Short Grant Burge Filsell Ballast StoneNice ‘cool’ flavour profile 23 AWARDED Row McLaren Vale Barossa Old Vine Stonemasonwith a licorice note. Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Currency CreekDrying oak tannins. Extremely solid class Big, thick, full-bodied shiraz Leaner style, with Shiraz 2009 HHHH of wines. If you want full of intense raspberry licorice and plums lifting Intense aromas of dark 3-5 $14.95 flavour you can’t go fruit. Rich dark chocolate, off the nose and great chocolate and satsumaFox Creek Shadow’s past this category. black olive characters and concentration and length plums, and thicklyRun Shiraz Cabernet Overall these wines had well supported by the and persistence of textured palate ripe withSauvignon great sweet fruit with toasty oak. “A beauty!” lovely clean varietal fruit raspberry and plum2008 HHH appropriate oak to lift declared one judge. flavours. $40 flavours mingling withLifted blackberry nose the flavours. There were oak. $12and supple, fleshy palate. some overly porty wines 5+ $28.50Good concentration of reflecting the hot period Dowie Doolesour cherry fruit and oak. experienced in the south McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHH 3-5 $12 Slightly jammy nose and long, complex, fruit-driven palate rich with flavour that has depth and texture. Well- balanced, classy wine. 3-5 $25‘FOUR STARS’ AND ‘TOP OF CLASS’ WINESTATE ‘NEW RELEASE TASTING’ MARCH 2010 Go to: www.thomastrek.com For a ‘Special Offer’ - delivered free Australia wide Offering great savings on a wine that already ‘Way Over Delivers on Quality!!’Thomas’ Trek commemorates the incredible journey of wine pioneer THOMAS HARDY in 1851, when he twice drove 500 headof cattle across the uncharted plains from Normanville South of Adelaide to Ballarat to feed the hungry gold miners, thus givinghim the capital to launch his ‘Wine enterprise’ now so famous around the globe The Thomas’ Trek Philosophy is to sourcewines for the series from the premium wine regions of South Australia and Victoria covered by THOMAS HARDY’S TREK.The initial release includes: 2008 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and 2008 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon USE PROMO CODE 1850 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 71

NEW RELEASES Scarpantoni Block 3 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Earthy/menthol nose and a palate that starts elegant and restrained and then ‘booms’ with a big hit of raspberry fruit. $30 Tamburlaine Reserve Orange Syrah 2008 HHH1/2 Interesting, spicy, cool climate shiraz with nice depth and balance of fruit and a strong tannic finish. $32Hugo McLaren Vale One Planet Local Pepper Tree Taylors Jaraman Ballast StoneShiraz 2008 HHHH Hero McLaren Vale Wrattonbully Shiraz Clare Valley Steeple Jack SouthFull-bodied wine Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Australia Shirazwith excellent length Lovely aromas of dark Earthy nose with distinct 2008 HHHH 2009 HHHof peppery plum/ chocolate, black olives menthol overtones. Peppery/spicy/earthy Plum jam intensity onblackcurrant fruit and and charry oak. Deep Similar characters on characters on the the nose and rich fruitchocolaty oak flavours. and fleshy in the mouth, the palate. Funky flavour nose, sitting on top of flavours with a tart acid“So much complexity!” with yummy dark fruit profile, nice tannin plum fruit. More earthy finish. $10enthused one judge. $23 and cleansing oak length and good oak elements on a palateYelland & Papps flavours. $14.95 spine. $18 with nice licorice notes. Ballast Stone BinDevote Greenock Brick Kiln 63 Triton SouthBarossa Valley Punt Road McLaren Vale Shiraz 3-5 $29.95 Australia ShirazShiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH 2009 HHHFragrances of plums, Lifted, fragrant earthy/ Spicy plum aromas andfollowed by a mouthful floral aromas and silky- attractive fruit-drivenof solid, ripe, sweet smooth palate with palate with good level offruit. Great length. clearly expressed varietal spice. $12Lovely drying tannins. fruit flavours and a great Napoleone Vineyards funky element. $19.95 Western Range Beeamma Estate 3-5 $30 Yarra Valley Shiraz Wines Limited Padthaway Shiraz 2008 HHHH Release Perth Hills 2008 HHH The nose is floral, earthy Shiraz 2008 HHHH Interesting minty/ and a touch licoricey, and Well-aged, slightly peppery aromas and the fruit palate vibrantly jammy bouquet and very nice spicy varietal sweet and mouthfilling dense, ripe, sweet flavours. $14 fruit, with appropriate stone-fruit palate with oak and warming drying oak and lovely Kettle Lane Barossa alcohol. 5+ $28 mouthfeel. Plenty of Shiraz 2008 HHH length. $38.95 Big, dense, brooding, ripe fruit nose and lots Blue Pyrenees of fruit concentration on Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 the long palate. $16.99 Lovely concentration of spicy, plum cake Bleasdale aromas. Elegant palate Bremerview with spicy fruit flavours Langhorne Creek and strong, drying oak Shiraz 2008 HHH tannins. 5+ $18 Dense, spicy fruit/toasty STAR RATINGS  oak nose and a huge Thomas Hardy Wines mouthful of spicy fruitThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Family Tradition flavours. 3-5 $18excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. McLaren Vale ShirazAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry 2008 HHH1/2 Zonte’s Footstepprofessionals and are compared in peer Ripe raspberry jam fruit Lake Doctorclasses by three judges. mingles with chocolaty Langhorne CreekCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, oak and has a lovely Shiraz 2008 HHHa major mail-order business. licorice thread running Earthy/vegetal aromasCD Cellar door price. through it. $21 with jammy ripe fruitCDO Cellar door only. underneath. ThicklySO Sold out. textured palate - almost$N/A Price not available at time of printing. porty. $18.99 Contact information pg 158. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).72 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSHIRAZ2007 & OLDER22 TASTED18 AWARDEDAnother great strike rate!Even a bit of extra ageshows again that good-quality shiraz performswell every time. “Theseolder wines were moreelegant than the ‘08s,”noted one judge.“If you are looking todrink elegant shiraz, lookto these.”Botham Merrill Willis Poverty Hill Conte Estate Over Somerled Wild Oats Shiraz25th Anniversary Eden Valley Shiraz The Hill Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHHLimited Edition 2007 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004 HHHH1/2 Real fruitcake of a noseMcLaren Vale Shiraz Lovely lifted, spicy, dried 2007 HHHH1/2 It may be six years old displaying a dash of2005 HHHH1/2 fruit/plum bouquet and Dark chocolaty nose with but it’s still a baby with licorice. Soft and roundedPowerful, maturing, a huge blockbuster of a a complex varietal fruit years ahead of it yet! in the mouth, withspicy, dark fruit palate brimming over with lift. More complexity on Lots of fresh cassis interesting ‘slippery’ fruitaromas. Beautifully lively varietal fruit and well a palate full of sweet, fruit with spicy/earthy flavours. 3-5 $18.99crafted palate with matched by some drying creamy raspberry complexity and dryingwell-retained, savoury, oak. 3-5 $24 flavours with a long acid tannins. $28stone-fruit flavours well backbone. 3-5 $27integrated with the oak. 5+ $29a wine cabinet to suityour lifestyleCT Series Cabinets 32bforttootml8e6s0Unbeatable value forglass-door wine cabinetsPeltier CabinetsLong-life, no vibration,Peltier coolingWineVac CabinetsUnderbench unitswith integrated winepreservation systemKITCHENER Phone 03 9459 2999. Details of our range and pricing are available online www.kitchenerwinecabinets.comWINE CABINETSMORE THAN PREMIUM WINE STORAGE The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73

NEW RELEASES Ferguson Jeremy Wehl’s Mount SWEET WHITE Yarra Valley Shiraz Benson Vineyards 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 6 TASTED Gorgeous brooding, Dark plums and black 4 AWARDED ‘mysterious’ dark fruit olives on the nose. Deep, bouquet. Great range of expressive varietal fruit Nice number of lusciously dark-fruited, spicy flavours palate. Great tannins and sweet wines, definitely with cleansing acid and good oak integration. $20 for the ‘sweet-toothed’. good oak. 5+ $30 Rymill Coonawarra Shiraz 2005 HHH1/2 Brown Brothers Well-aged, lean, dry red Milawa Patricia style with dark chocolaty Victoria Shiraz fruit, charry oak and nice 2006 HHHH savoury characters. $24 Well-aged stewed Maverick Greenock fruit aromas with Rise Barossa Valley an earthy/spicy lift. Shiraz 2007 HHH Wonderful weight and Funky, earthy, lean and concentration of flavour. mean, with a good level Raw oak finish. Needs of sweet varietal fruit. $55 time. 3-5 $55.90Whitebox Heathcote Cahillton Heathcote Schild Estate BarossaShiraz 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHHSmells of dark cherries Great depth of bright, Quite different; complexand plums with some lifted, ripe fruit aromas and elegant and a bitcreamy oak. Creamy in which follow through funky, with lifted, vibrantthe mouth, with a rich, to the palate. Good oak berry flavours filling thepeppery, blackcurrant integration and nice mouth. Good cellaring.fruit expression. $19.50 tannin/acid backbone. 5+ $20 5+ $22.50 Fox Creek McLaren Vale Late Harvest Semillon 2008 (375ml) HHHH1/2 Big, rich and extremely luscious golden wine with gorgeous pineapple/ orange peel aromas and flavours mingling with dried fruit characters. “It’s a dessert in a glass!” $20 Huma Yarra Valley Long Flat Pink Shiraz 2006 HHH Moscato 2009 HHH Dense, dark fruit aromas Sweet strawberry- with seasoned oak like nose and gently backbone and developed sparkling, raisin-sweet earthy plum flavours. $10 fruit palate. $9.90 Prince Hill Wines Trentham Shiraz Maverick Trial Hill Mudgee Botrytis 2007 HHH1/2 Eden Valley Shiraz Sauvignon Blanc Earthy and spicy on 2007 HHH 2009 (375ml) HHH the nose, followed by Tarry/plum bouquet Clear expression of a lean, bright palate full and full-bodied palate. botrytis characters on of developed, vibrant, Nice range of flavours the nose. Nice level of complex, spicy fruit in the black/red fruit lusciously rich fruit on a flavours. 5+ $14 spectrum. $70 warm palate. $19 Plantagenet Tatachilla Foundation Ringbark Great Koonowla McLaren Vale Shiraz Southern Riesling The Ringmaster 2005 HHH 2009 (375ml) HHH Clare Valley Shiraz Brooding dark fruit/ Golden wine smelling of 2007 HHH1/2 smoky oak nose. ripe melons. Luscious, Nose a mix of cherries, Well-aged, seamlessly syrupy palate full of tar and spice. Nicely integrated palate. Good honeyed grapefruit textured medium-bodied acid spine. 5+ 50 flavours. $25 palate; a balance of www.fermoy.com.au tobacco, spice and earthiness. $16Cellardoor open daily 10am-5pm74 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Market 190 is situated in the heart of the McLaren Vale wine district. Set in a heritage listed building with alfrescodining. Market 190 has become an icon in the vale with award winning coffee, delicious homemade cakes andsensational summer salads. Serving over 1000 meals per week and grinding over 25kg’s of Fairtrade OrganicCoffee per weekWe are a family friendly café with a cubby house and a children’s indoor playroom.We serve the best breakfast in town with gourmet Haloumi hash browns, free range eggs, gluten free muesli andawesome freshly squeezed juices, with awesome coffee of course.Market 190 is also a providore stocking local and international cheese’s, oils, olives, vinegars, dips, chutneys,etc,etc.We have also introduced stylish homewares to our extensive list that are proving extremely popular. Perfect for apresent or to take a piece of the vale with you.Market 190 has become the largest caterer in the district. We caterer at numerous local wineries including Paxtons,Wirra Wirra, Parri Estate and Rosemount Estate, to name a few. Specializing in wedding’s and corporate events wecan tailor a menu to any requirements and regularly do gourmet aussie bbq’s, finger food or formal sit down affairs.Market 190190 main road, McLaren Vale, South AustraliaP. (08) 8323 8558Fax. (08) 8323 7505Contact Wayne for catering on 0413 049 866Email: [email protected] 7 days 8am - 5pm

TOP 40 Balgownie Premium Grant Burge Frizzante Scarpantoni Pedler Cuvee Brut NV Moscato 2009 Creek McLaren Pleasant, delicate Vibrantly fresh style - Vale Sauvignon aromatics and a not too sweet - with Blanc 2009 flavoursome, sparkling nice tingling, crisp, Zesty, herbaceous fruit palate - a little sharp but gassy character. $17 aromas and lightweight a crowd-pleaser. $19 acid palate with lingering lychee flavours. $13.99THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.76 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Willow Bridge Estate Blackboy Ridge Blackboy Ridge Oakover Wines Fox Gordon AbbyDragonfly Western Geographe Classic Geographe White Label Western Adelaide HillsAustralia Sauvignon White 2009 Semillon Sauvignon Australia Chenin Viognier 2009Blanc Semillon 2009 Lifted aromatics on Blanc 2009 Blanc 2009 Intense, ripe apricotSubtle wine with leafy the nose and fragrantly Green bean nose with Sweaty, rockmelon aromas and a long,herbaceous fruit, some sweet flavours on a grassy semillon notes aromas with musky notes. luscious palate that’sresidual sugar and slightly oily palate. $15 and a crisp, clean, Big, rich and sweet in the fresh and lively withbalancing acid. Crowd seamless palate. Good mouth. $12.99 gentle apricot flavourspleaser. $16.50 drinking. $16 and perfectly balanced acidity. $19.95OTHER WHITE WINES Taylor Ferguson Sparkling Shiraz Cabernet NV best buys Spicy plum bouquet with a savoury edge, followed byCapel Vale Debut Western Australia Sparkling Brut NV a cream cake-like palate. $9.99 20less thanCandied, fruit-driven aromas and a simple but well-constructed, slightly sweet, palate. $17.95 Chalice Bridge Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $ Very varietal, with a grassy, pungent bouquet andBrown Brothers Victoria Moscato 2009 fresh, zippy palate showing good level of flavours andFresh, fragrant and floral, with a muscat lift to the very nice acid structure. Lingering aftertaste. $19.95nose and inviting sweet flavours. Nice acid andspritzig characters. $15.40 Matilda’s Vineyard Denmark Classic White 2009 Lovely pungent orange blossom/tropical fruitJames Haselgrove Wines Selections Semi Sweet Later bouquet and crisp, peachy palate with phenolicHarvest 2009 character balanced by zesty acidity. $18Attractive peach-like aromas and a soft, sweet apricotpalate. Quite elegant. $15 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77

TOP 40 Fuddling Cup Sandalford Wild Oats Rose 2009 Margaret River Margaret River Subtle cherry aromas Semillon Sauvignon Classic Dry White and nicely balanced, Blanc 2009 Semillon Sauvignon flavoursome dry palate. Subdued herbaceous Blanc 2009 Good quaffer. $18.99 aromas. Warmish palate Green beans and herbs - great texture with soft on the nose. Nice fruit fruit flavours. $16 sweetness in the mouth. Good acid level. $18.99TOP 40Beelgara Black Label Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2009 Mayhem & Co Very Adelaide Hills Viognier 2009 Nose showing slightly developed peach aromas, “Slippery” style with delicate apricot aromas followed by a pretty stone-fruit palate. $17.99 and a long, fleshy palate showing passionfruit development. $17.99 Niche Western Australia Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008 “You’d think it was a classic NZ style,” said one judge. Niche Western Australia Chardonnay 2008 Very grassy/green pea/lantana nose. Simple palate Sweaty, passionfruit-like characters on the nose and with nice range of green flavours and crisp acid. $14.95 tight citrus/honeydew melon flavours. Funky and different, with a nicely textured palate. $14.95 Churchview Estate Silverleaf Margaret River Chenin Blanc 2009 OTHER RED WINES Nicely handled wine with citrus, limes and passionfruit lifting off the nose and nice fruit Mount Hurtle South Australia Rose 2009 flavours with good residual/acid balance. $12.50 Fresh, estery, sweet cherry aromas and simple floral flavours. Would be great with food. $878 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Bleasdale Second Aldi Stores Smith & Hooper Rocland Estate Barking OwlInnings Langhorne Claire Creek SEA Wrattonbully Ass Kisser South Perth Hills ShirazCreek Malbec 2008 Merlot 2008 Merlot 2008 Australia Fine Red Viognier 2008Vibrant purple wine Soft, flavoursome, spicy Lifted berry aromas Wine 2007 Richly flavoured, nicelywith a spicy floral nose fruit cake style. Good with a licorice Big, spicy, cranberry/ textured wine withshowing forest floor-like soft tannin structure and undercurrent. Sweet- raspberry aromas and an intense concentrationnotes. Full, flavoursome acid to balance. $5.99 scented cassis/licorice interesting spicy/sweet of cherries and plumspalate that’s soft in the palate. 3-5 $17.95 oak palate. $10 showing spicy elements,mouth and has slight soft tannins and a long,porty characters. $15 savoury finish. $17.95Barwick Estates White Label Western Australia Hardys Nottage Hill SEA Merlot 2008 best buysPinot Noir 2009 Slightly warm, slightly extracted soft, flavoursomeBright, simple fragrances and lovely raspberry-like wine with good level of complexity. $11fruit on the palate. Good tannins. $15 Rex Watson Coonawarra Merlot 2007 20less thanBleasdale T&M McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek Quite herbal on the nose. Lightweight palate withTempranillo Malbec 2008 nice balance of acid, tannin and residual sugar. $18.95 $Fresh, plummy fruit with hints of menthol and vanillabean and solid raw oak. Fleshy in the mouth. $24 Plantagenet Omrah Western Australia Cabernet Merlot 2007Beresford Highwood Langhorne Creek Merlot 2008 Slightly waxy, perfumed red fruit nose and medium-Complex raspberry fruit balanced by soft tannins bodied, flavoursome palate with some cherry notesand well-handled oak. $15.99 and greenish tannins. $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79

TOP 40best buys Fox Creek Shadow's Thomas Hardy Kettle Lane Barossa Trentham Run Shiraz Cabernet Wines Thomas’ Shiraz 2008 Shiraz 2007 Sauvignon 2008 Trek McLaren Vale Big, dense, brooding, Earthy and spicy on Lifted blackberry nose Padthaway ripe fruit nose and lots the nose, followed by and supple, fleshy palate. Shiraz Cabernet of fruit concentration on a lean, bright palate full Sauvignon 2008 the long palate. $16.99 of developed, vibrant,less than Good concentration of Big plum/blackcurrant lift complex, spicy fruit sour cherry fruit and oak. to the nose with a touch flavours. 5+ $14 of candy oak. Lovely$20 3-5$12 spice-driven, jammy palate. Drying oak finish. 3-5 $17.50TOP 40Poacher’s Ridge Crooked Tale Mt Barker Moss Brothers Moses Rock Margaret River Shiraz Cabernet Merlot 2008 Cabernet 2007 Good cool climate tomato leaf/forest floor bouquet, Sweet, lifted oak tends to mask the underlying black and a palate offering a big mouthful of savoury/ jubey fruit - for now. Give it time. $19 green flavours. $19 Rymill mc2 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Beeamma Estate Padthaway Shiraz 2008 Interesting minty/peppery aromas and very nice Cabernet Franc 2006 spicy varietal flavours. $14 Firm style with good backbone of fruit and oak. Developing nicely. Many more years to go. 3-5 $18 Blue Pyrenees Shiraz 2008 Lovely concentration of spicy, plum cake aromas. Tatachilla Partners Cabernet Shiraz 2008 Elegant palate with spicy fruit flavours and strong, Fresh plums and cranberry-like varietal fruit with smoky oak to balance and showing a slight medicinal lift. $12 drying oak tannins. 5+ $1880 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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Our very best grapesget a sideways promotion.JUST LIKE IN ALL LIFE, there’s a pecking order room instead of the cramped gulag-plantings in the rest of the vineyard.in a vineyard. Every year these grapes are hand-picked in bothIn the tough world of the Pewsey Vale vineyard senses of the word. They’re blended, bottledon the rim of Eden Valley, the nobs on the and then left alone in the darkness of stonehill are the Riesling grapes in one area known cellars to age in the bottle for five years.as The Contours. When they finally see sunshine, chances are it’sThese are the vines on the ends of the rows through the window of a wine show and of late,which follow the line of the hills rather than reflected off a gold medal.cut across them. The Contours is a very special wine fromThese elite grapes have it tough, sure. Pewsey Vale. A true Riesling where the characterEvery grape does in the bitterly cold nights of the wine has not changed; just strengthenedand clammy hot days on the high slopes of through cellar ageing.the curiously misnamed Eden Valley. Gold in colour and awards. Very agreeable.But they do get first go at the water ration. But aren’t the ones who get the sidewaysThey usually have a hillside to protect them promotion always agreeable?from the bitter winds. Some even have elbowPewsey Vale Vineyard kwp! PVA10016 eden valley

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means 5 international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, weWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more will have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 83

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 1999 $85 GREENOCK CREEK 1987 $210 2000 $40  1998 $85 2000 $95 Roennfeldt Rd 1988 $300 2001 $30 1999 $75 2001 $80  Shiraz 1989 $240 2002 $40 2000 $80 1995 $370 2002 $70 1990 $460 2003 $30 2001 $70 2003 $80 1996 $320  1991 $370 2004 $30 2002 $65 E & E Black 2004 $75 1997 $190 1992 $350 2005 $40 2003 $60 Pepper Shiraz 2005 $85 DE BORTOLI 1998 $3801990 $85 2006 $90 Noble One (375ml) 1999 $180 1993 $300 2005 $35 2004 $601991 $90 2007 $90 1990 $45 1994 $340 2005 $601992 $56 1991 $40 2000 $220 1995 $340 1993 $65 2001 $2401994 $65 1992 $25 2002 $400 1996 $5001995 $65 1997 $3201996 $110  CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 2003 $200 1998 $520 1997 $70 Astralis Shiraz 1994 $461998 $100 1994 $220 1995 $38 2003 $350 1999 $380  Georgia’s Paddock1999 $75 1990 $1102000 $75  1995 $210 1996 $50 2001 $360 1991 $602001 $65 Roennfeldt Road 2002 $440 1992 $802002 $85 1996 $300 1997 $35 Cabernet 2004 $500 1993 $95 Chardonnay2003 $54 1998 $45 1994 $85 Art Series2004 $65 1997 $250 1999 $30 Sauvignon 2005 $350 1995 $752005 $70 1998 $320 1996 $70 1990 $60 1999 $310 2000 $35 1995 $300 1997 $65 1991 $70 1996 $200 Hill of Grace 1998 $90 1992 $75 2000 $270 2001 $24 1997 $165 Magnum 1999 $70 1993 $68 2002 $45 2000 $75 1994 $80 2001 $300 2003 $24 1998 $300 1980 $480 2001 $80 1995 $110  2002 $320 2002 $85 1996 $65 2003 $210 2004 $25 1999 $220 1981 Not Released 2003 $80 1997 $100  2000 $210 2004 $75 1998 $70 2004 $350 2006 $30 1982 $530 2005 $65  1999 $85 2001 $250  1983 $550  2006 $65 2000 $75 2005 $320 2006 $30 2002 $260 1984 $420 2006 $60 2001 $90 BASS PHILLIP Elderton 2002 $85Premium Pinot Noir 1985 Not Released 2003 $110 CLONAKILLA Command Shiraz 1986 $950 2004 $95 1990 $80 Shiraz Viognier 1990 $120  Grossett 1987 $650 2005 $75 1991 $100 1990 $65 1991 Not Released Polish Hill Riesling 1988 $500 2006 $70 1992 $120 1993 $65 1992 $75 1993 $100 1994 $85 1993 $65 1990 $55 1989 $650 1994 $120 1995 $65 1994 $95 1991 $45 1995 $95 1996 $100 1995 $75 1992 $45 1990 $850 1996 $115 1997 $130  1996 $95 1991 $600 1997 $180 1998 $150  1997 $80 1993 $45 1992 $580 1998 $110 1999 $55 1998 $90 1994 $45 1999 $140 2000 $65 1999 $60 1995 $50 1994 $750 2000 $110 2001 $130 2000 $65  2001 $100 2002 $120  2001 $80 1996 $45 Cyril Henschke Majella 2002 $145 2003 $110  2002 $90  1997 $60 The Malleea Shiraz 2003 $110 2004 $120  2003 $70  1998 $40 1990 $95 2004 $120  2005 $120 2004 $80 1991 $85 Cabernet 2005 $80 2006 $100 2005 $65 1999 $45 1992 $85 Armagh Shiraz 1996 $70  2007 $90 2007 $150  2000 $35 1990 $220 1997 $48 2001 $45  1993 $80 1991 $180 1998 $95 2002 $55 1994 $85 1992 $120 1999 $50 1995 $70 1993 $110 2000 $42 2003 $45 1996 $150  1994 $130 2001 $70 2004 $45 1995 $130 2002 $70 2005 $50 1997 $70 1996 $160 2003 $65 2008 $120 1998 $140  1997 $150 2004 $55 GIACONDA 2006 $40 1998 $220 2005 $60Best’s Thomson Chardonnay 2007 $40 1999 $75 1999 $130 Family Shiraz 2000 $80 2000 $1201992 $85 1990 $100 2008 $40 2001 $130 2009 $40 2001 $80 2002 $2001993 Not Released 1991 $75 2002 $100 2004 $145 1992 $851994 $70 1993 $90 2003 $651995 $1001996 $95 1994 $100 2004 $1001997 $75 Cabernet Merlot 1995 $85 2005 $801998 $100 1990 $95 1996 $130 2005 $751999 Not Released 1991 $100 1997 $90 2000 Not Released 1992 $80 1998 $125  Eileen Hardy Mount Edelstone KAY BROS MOSS WOOD2001 $90 1993 $85 1999 $110  Shiraz 1990 $120 Block 6 Old Vine Cab Sauv2004 $90  1994 $90 2000 $110 1991 $90 1995 $95 2001 $100 1990 $100 1992 $90 Shiraz 1990 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2002 $140 1991 $55 1993 $80 1990 $95 1991 $120Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2004 $190 1992 $55 1994 $80 1991 $60  1992 $1201997 $80 1998 $95 2005 $140 1993 $60 1995 $80 1992 $75 1993 $901998 $95 1999 $95 2006 $120 1994 $75 1996 $100 1993 $50 1994 $130 2000 $85 1995 $70 1997 $70 1994 $60 1995 $1701999 Not Released 2001 $80 1996 $95  1998 $95 1995 $50 1996 $1502000 $160 2002 Not Released 1997 $50 1999 $75 1996 $65 1997 $902001 $95 1998 $100  2000 $65 1997 $50 1998 $1502002 $110 2003 $75 1999 $70  2001 $85 1998 $80 1999 $140 2004 $70 2000 $55 2002 $130 1999 $65 2000 $1202003 $85 2001 $75 2003 $80 2000 $65 2001 $1202004 $140 2002 $55 2004 $85 2001 $65 2002 $902005 $120  D’ARENBERG Meshach 2003 $55 2005 $80 2002 $85  2003 $952006 $110  The Dead Arm 1990 $110 2004 $65 2003 $65 2004 $852007 $110 1991 $85 2004 $65 2005 $85 Shiraz 1992 $80  2006 $80 2005 $50 2006 $65 1994 $120 2006 $65  1995 $80  1993 $65 KATNOOK ESTATE MOUNT MARYBROKENWOOD 1996 $75 1994 $90  Keyneton Estate Odyssey Cab Sauv QuintetGraveyard Shiraz 1997 $60 1995 $85 1990 $55  1991 $901990 $90 1998 $85  1996 $100 1991 $45 1992 $75 1990 $2601991 $100 1992 $45 1993 Not Released 1991 $110 1999 $65 1997 Not Released Hill of Grace 1993 $45 1994 $75 1992 $1101992 Not Released 2000 $65  1998 $130 1980 $250 1994 $36 1995 Not Released 1993 $1301993 $75 2001 $70  1999 $85 1981 $230 1995 $34 1996 $95 1994 $1201994 $80 1982 $240 1996 $60  1997 $65 1995 $1001995 $70 2002 $65 2000 $70 1983 $240 1997 $40  1996 $160 2001 $85 1984 $210 1998 $60 1997 $1101996 $95 2003 $65 2002 $95  1985 $250 1999 $36 2004 $60 1986 $3501997 $75 2005 $48 2003 $751998 $110 2006 $55 2004 $7584 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.1998 $180  1990 $2,000 1996 $150  2001 $45  1991 $65  1994 $95 1999 $501999 $1202000 $160 1991 $1,100 1997 $65 2002 $40  1993 $55 1995 $80 2000 $652001 $120 1992 $1,000 1998 $95 2004 $45 1994 $65 1996 $75 2001 $1202002 $140 1993 $1,000 1999 $70 2005 $45 1997 $65 2002 $652003 $140 1994 $800 2000 $60 2006 $45 THREE RIVERS/ 1998 $110 2003 $602004 $140 1995 $800 2001 $60 Chris Ringland 1999 $75  2004 $852005 $160 1996 $1,000 2002 $80 Wines Shiraz 2000 $702006 $150 1997 $800 2003 $60 1990 $900 2001 $70 Moet et Chandon 1998 $1,200 2004 $75 1991 $700 2002 $120 Cuvee Dom 1999 $890  2005 $65 1992 $650 2003 $60 Perignon 2000 $1,100 Stonewell Shiraz 1993 $750 2004 $70 1973 $360 2001 $1,100 Magill Estate 1990 $90 1994 $600 2004 $70 1975 $400 2002 $1,500 1990 $70 1991 $70 1995 $500 1976 $300  2003 $900 1991 $70 1992 $60 1996 $1,200 1978 $290 2004 $1,100  1992 $55 1993 $65 1997 Not Released 1980 $220 Bin 95 Grange 1993 $50 1994 $65 1998 $900  1982 $450 1951 $43,000 1994 $60 1995 $60 1999 $600  1983 $1801952 $17,000 1995 $45 1996 $95 2000 $450 John Riddoch 1985 $3001953 $13,000 1997 $65 Cab Sauv1954 $10,000  1996 $70 1998 $75 2001 $850 1990 $70 1988 $2601955 $3,600 1997 $60  1999 $75  2002 $850 1990 $6001956 $14,000 1998 $85 2000 $70 2003 $500 1991 $75 1992 $240 1957 $11,000 Bin 707 1999 $65  2001 $65 1992 $601958 $4,800 1980 $130  2000 $55  2002 $70 1993 $55 1993 $2201959 $2,000 1981 Not Released 2001 $55 2004 $85 TORBRECK 1995 $2201960 $1,400 1982 $140  2002 $70 1994 $70 1996 $3001961 $1,200 1983 $130 2003 $70 Run Rig Shiraz 1995 Not Released 1998 $2601962 $1,100 1984 $95 2004 $65 1995 $250 1996 $75  1999 $2301963 $1,000 1985 $120 2005 $60 1996 $350 1997 $50 2000 $2501964 $700 1986 $160 2006 $75 1997 $240 1998 $801965 $550 1987 $140  1998 $350 1999 $52 FORTIFIEDS1966 $600 1999 $200 2003 $501967 $700 1988 $150  Bin 389 Basket Press 2000 Not Released 2004 $551968 $550 1989 $140  1990 $100 2001 $190 2005 $751969 $550 1990 $170 1991 $80 Shiraz 2002 $220 2006 $601970 $360 1990 $150 2003 $200 Para Liqueur1971 $700 1991 $140 1992 $50 1991 $140 2004 $200 1878 $1,600 1972 $350 1992 $140  1993 $55 2005 $200 Michael Shiraz 1879 $1,2001973 $360 1993 $130 1994 $65 1992 $95 2006 $150  1955 $1,600 1880 $8001974 $380 1994 $150  1993 $75 1990 $100 1881 $8001975 $400 1887 $8001976 $650 1995 $50 1994 $90 1893 $1,0001977 $400 1995 Not Released 1996 $85 1991 $65 1899 $1,0001978 $400 1996 $200 1995 $75 1992 Not Released 1908 $5501979 $380 1997 $45 1996 $140 1910 $5001980 $350 1997 $150 1998 $80 1993 $65  1922 $500 1981 $350 1998 $200 1997 $95  1925 $8001982 $350 1999 $50 1998 $190 1994 $65 1927 $4801983 $360 1999 $130 1999 $95 1995 Not Released 1930 $240 1984 $350 2000 $55  Shiraz 1996 $70  1933 $200 1985 $350 2000 Not Released 2001 $50 1990 $145 1997 $55 1939 $1501986 $550 2001 $120 2002 $60 2000 $80 1991 $130 1998 $65 1944 $901987 $320 2001 $85 1992 $80 1999 $45 1947 $801988 $350 2002 $160 2003 $50 2002 $140  1993 $90 2003 $50 1951 $3001989 $350 2003 Not Released 2004 $48 1994 $160 2004 $601990 $580 2004 $150 2005 $50 2003 $100 1995 $90  2005 $651991 $420 1996 $1601992 $350 2005 $140 2006 $45  222000000456 $951993 $350 2006 $150 $951994 $350 $95 1995 $320 RWT1996 $480 Bin 707 Magnum 1997 $95 2007 $100 1997 $901997 $340 1980 $190 1998 $140 1998 $1601998 $540 1981 Not Released 1999 $100 1999 $1001999 $410 1982 $210 2000 $90 2000 $90 2000 $420 1983 $260 2001 $85 2001 $95 The Octavius Shiraz2001 $400 1984 $190 2002 $120 2002 $150 1990 $752002 $450 2003 $80 1991 Not Released2003 $380 1985 $230 2003 $110 2004 $150 1992 $602004 $520 1986 $340 2004 $110 Old Block Shiraz 2005 $130  1993 $45 Grandfather Port 1987 $190 2005 $90 1990 $85 2006 $110 1994 $70 1940 $240 1988 $180 2006 $110 1991 $50 1995 $65 1945 $220 1989 $175 1992 $40  1990 $360 Block 42 1993 $40 WILD DUCK CREEK 1996 $90 1991 $240 Cab Sauv 1994 $45 ‘Duck Muck’ 1997 $60 1992 $165 1996 $420 1995 $45 Shiraz 1993 $200 2004 $600  1996 $70  1994 $400 1998 $100 1994 $350 1997 $40 1995 $400 1999 $60 1995 Not Released 1998 $65 1996 Not Released 2000 $60 1996 $380 1999 $60  1997 $490 2001 $85 Vintage Port 1997 $225 2000 $40 1998 Not Released 2002 $100 1998 $320 2001 $40 1999 Not Released 2003 $75 1956 $120 1999 $190 2002 $80 2000 $350 2004 $75 1958 $140 2000 Not Released 2003 $50 2001 $340 1964 $110Bin 95 Grange 2001 $250 Coonawarra 2004 $50 2002 $360 1965 $110 Magnum 2002 $235 Red Blend 2005 $50 2004 $320 1966 $100 2004 $300 2006 $70 2007 $260 1967 $651979 $1,800  2005 $320 1990 $65 Dry Red No. 1 1968 $651980 $900 1991 $55 1990 $150 1969 $50 1981 $1,000 1992 $40 1971 $601982 $950 1972 $551983 $1,0001984 $880 1993 $35 SEPPELT 1991 $75 1985 $900 St. Henri 1994 $40 Show Sparkling 1992 $601986 $2,000 1995 $35 1993 $551987 $900 1990 $170 1996 $55 Shiraz Black Label 1994 $701988 $800 1991 $95 1997 $45 1984 $65 1990 $100 1995 $551989 $850 1992 $70 1998 $75 1985 $90 1991 $110 1996 $65 1993 $70 1999 $45 1986 $75 1992 $70 1997 $75 1994 $65 2000 $45 1987 $70 1993 $80 1998 $80 1995 $65 1990 $70 May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 85

Asian wine hub moves to Hong KongThe Honourable John Tsang Chun-Wah (second from left) WITH world attention increasingly focusing million in London. Clearly, this shows awith VIP guests celebrating the opening ceremony. on China, Hong Kong has stolen the march tectonic shift in interest in wine to the East. from its southern neighbour, Singapore. In a brilliant strategic move, Hong Kong’s John Tsang told last year's Hong Kong Financial Secretary, John Tsang Chun-Wah, International Wine & Spirit Fair the next step convinced the Protectorate authorities to would be to “uncork the potential market abolish all wine duties in 2008, with the aim on the mainland”. Raymond Yip, assistant of encouraging wine importers to make the director of the Hong Kong Trade Development region the prime Asian wine hub. Corporation, added, “China and Hong Kong currently control 60 per cent of Asia’s wine The strategy seems to have worked well, consumption and soon we will become the with reports indicating that imports have world’s eighth largest market!” He estimates jumped 80 per cent, year on year, to a value that consumption in Asia will dramatically of $US373 million. Meanwhile, global auction increase to $US27 billion by 2017. house Sotheby’s sold $US1.8 million worth of wine in Hong Kong in 2009, compared with The 2009 Hong Kong Fair attracted $US1.35 million in New York and $US1.03 520 exhibitors from 34 countries, twice the number that first exhibited in 2008. To encourage local participation, a Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival was held concurrently with the exhibition, attracting 70,000 visitors over three days. With its ‘New York’ skyline vista, combined with ‘Hollywood colour’, its West Kowloon outlook was truly spectacular! Anthony Lau, executive director of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, applauded the successful evening that combined 150 wine and food tasting booths, musical entertainment and a sound and light show finale. Meanwhile, regional districts competed to provide an extraordinary range of street carnivals and wine and food themed functions. At the first 2009 Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition, a new event judged solely by Asian judges, it was pleasing to again see that the majority of trophies were won by Australian and New Zealand wines. With Australia being the host country for the fair in 2010, this could become the turning point when Australasia shifts its wine focus from the UK and the US to Asia. With the response in our previous primary markets becoming increasingly fickle, that may not be such a bad thing. * Peter Simic travelled to the fair as a guest of the Hong Kong Trade Development Corporation.86 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

wine investment & collectingAruecptioonrts demand include d’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz AUCTION DATES and Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon;LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz; Chateau LANGTON’S WINE AUCTIONS &(MARCH REPORT) Reynella Basket Press Shiraz; Wynn’s John EXCHANGEThe auction market gathered significant Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Michael April 20-May 4 (Sydney)momentum through a 10-week period Shiraz and Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon; May 4-18 (Melbourne)between early January and March. Auction Torbreck The Factor and Descendent Shiraz May 18-June 1 (Sydney)and exchange sales leading up to Christmas and Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz. Penfolds Bin June 1-15 (Melbourne)and the New Year were buoyant and many range wines underpin the entire secondary June 15-29 (Sydney)buyers took advantage of the ‘no buyer’s wine market. For decades they have offered June 29-July 13 (Melbourne)premium’ on Langton’s exchange - resulting consistency, value and quality to collectorsin the best-ever sales of ultra-fine Australian, and Bin 389 is a star performer. STERLING WINE AUCTIONSClassed Growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru April 30-May 12Burgundy. Depletion of good-quality stock The demand for Australian riesling (consignment deadline April 26)in this forum and a strong upswing in continues to grow at auction. For many May 28-June 9demand has translated into an energised years Grosset has dominated this scene, but (consignment deadline May 24)auction market. the bottle-aged Pewsey Vale The Contours June 25-July 14 Riesling, standard Pewsey Vale Riesling and (consignment deadline June 21) January sales were relatively small in Leo Buring Leonay Rieslings - with any agesize but attracted buoyant interest, superb - are also commanding impressive prices. ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONSclearance rates and above-average prices. A Aged Australian chardonnay is increasingly May 4 -Tasting Australia Wineprofound increase in supply during February problematic and this genre is managed Auction (entries close April 1)lowered clearance rates, but the overall carefully at Langton’s. New buyers have May 11 - Premium Australiansentiment of the market suggested a return a tendency to buy into these wines but all & Imported Auctionto a more predictable pattern of auctions too often are disappointed. Only the very (entries close April 16)sales in 2010. best vintages have a lasting quality. Random June 29 - Premium Australian oxidation is also prevalent, making these & Imported Auction Although Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill purchases a risky buy. (entries close May 28)of Grace and Chris Ringland Shiraz continueto command the headline news, the overall Mostly ignored for a few years, large- MW WINE AUCTIONSsecondary market is governed by mid-range, format bottles are suddenly back in vogue, May 13-19 (web progressive;ultra-fine Australian wines - particularly with an imperial of 1996 Rockford Basket submission deadline May 8)classical regional shiraz and cabernet Press Shiraz recently fetching $4128. June 17-23 (web progressive;sauvignon from recognised vintages; 1996, Australian ‘ports’ are also enjoying a price submission deadline June 12)’98, ’02 and ’04 from South Australia are renaissance. This is mostly to do with rarity,followed strongly and wines enjoying strong immediate drinking and impending birthdays GRAYS ONLINE rather than any idea of greatness. Seppelt Daily wine auctions featuring a range Para Liqueur Port is a major beneficiary. of red and white wines and regional and country-specific sales. The rare Australian wine market continues to perform with astonishing results. Recent (All dates are subject to change, highlights include $4082 for a 1962 Penfolds without notice) Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet-Barossa Valley Shiraz and $3834 for the ultra-rare 1959 Lindemans Bin 1590 Hunter Valley Shiraz. Penfolds Grange has risen in value between five and 10 per cent across the first quarter - suggesting the market has become more competitive. Certainly the volume of bidding increased significantly during February and March. First Growth Bordeaux and Domaine de la Romanee Conti dominate the price leaderboard. It is boringly predictable but that is where the market is. The highest prices at wine auctions around the world are limited to a very small number of producers and significant milestone wines. The overall momentum of the market is pretty well driven by sentiment in Hong Kong. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 87

wine investment & collecting Over the last five years, the market for lots of Penfolds red wines on offer and 232 An increased volume of international winesgreat vintages has boomed, creating a major sold. Some new record high prices on Grange has appeared in the secondary market overgap between ultra-fine Australian wine and vintages have also been achieved recently, the past few months, with no shortage ofFrench classics. Grange, which has tracked including $644 for a 1970 Grange, which only highlights for the best French wines. Foralongside First Growth claret for many years, a few years ago would have traded regularly Bordeaux, $782 was paid for a 1986 Chateauhas not kept pace with this upward trend. around the high $200 mark. The benchmark Mouton Rothschild and a record $575 for anIt is difficult to predict the future, but there vintages for Grange are the 1990 and 1998. ’82 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesseis a feeling among some observers that top These generally reflect the trend in overall De Lalande. Another record price camevintages of Grange are undervalued on the demand for Grange and the recent realised through the Burgundy section for a 1985secondary wine market. prices of $621 for the 1990 and $552 for the ’98 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet Grand arebothtowardstheupperendofexpectations. Cru, which easily surpassed the estimate, “We expect Langton’s auction market selling for an outstanding $1058.to remain relatively strong for the next Penfolds Bin 707 continues to stakefew months,” says Andrew Caillard, MW, its claim as Australia’s best-performing Another recent highlight is the $3335fine wine principal at Langton’s. “With cabernet sauvignon, with the superb ’98 achieved by a very rare bottle of 1946such renewed confidence and a whole vintage recently achieving $195. MW wines Macallan Select Reserve Single Malt Scotchseason ahead, it seems like a very good has noted increased prices lately for other Whisky - complete with a timber presentationtime to sell - especially great Australian top-end cabernet-based wines, Moss Wood, box and a certificate of authenticity.vintages and rarities. Certainly the outlook Cullen and Mount Mary Quintet. Penfoldsis very positive compared to the same Bin 389 is also performing very well; the As to the future, MW wines directorperiod last year.” For more information exceptional 1990 vintage is now fetching Robert Worthington remains cautiouslyvisit www.langtons.com.au. over $100 at auction and buyers need to optimistic the strength being seen at the pay around $80 for the excellent ’98 vintage. quality end of the market will continueMW WINE AUCTIONS and, over time, be complemented by a(MARCH REPORT) By far the hottest sector of the secondary general price rise across the entire marketWhile overall clearance rates remain above auction market so far this year has been in the second half of the year. For more70 per cent, according to MW wines there rare and old Australian classics. Estimates information visit www.mwwines.com.au.appears to be a two-paced market at based on previous performances havepresent - with better-end quality products proved to be highly conservative as demand ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONSperforming strongly and lower quality wines and subsequently prices for these great old (FEBRUARY REPORT)still struggling, mainly due to excessive wines, have been insatiable. At MW wines’ Traditionally, February is a slow time for mostvolume and lower demand. February sale, a bottle of 1965 Lindemans auction houses as Christmas-related credit Bin 3100 Hunter River Burgundy continued card bills arrive in the post. But this was not the The strength of the top end is evident through this trend with a fantastic price of $1081, case at Oddbins’ second premium auction forthe clearance rates of Penfolds wines. At a and $391 was recently achieved by a 1963 2010-withdemandforAustralianandimportedrecent MW wines auction there were 235 Mildara Cabernet Shiraz. European table wine remaining strong. Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... What we do Best! It’s88 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

wine investment & collecting The number one spot on Oddbins’ Top and consistent,” says Graham. “These towards mid-mature premier cru offerings,Ten list of hammer prices paid for Australian conditions have changed and we now have a and champagne remains a strong seller.table wines was secured by a 1957 Penfolds more consistent batch of historical data whichGrange, which sold for $9500. In second we can rely on. As of February, the Oddbins Portugal and its famed fortifieds remainplace was a rare, typed label 1962 Penfolds Good Grange Index has been fully revised to a dominant sub-category in any auctionBin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Kalimna incorporate this important 1998 vintage. The catalogue. A large selection of the five-starShiraz, fetching $1860, while a magnum index has changed slightly, but overall it tells 1977 vintage from the likes of Croft, Dow,of 1989 Three Rivers Barossa Valley Shiraz the same story: over the last 10 years Penfolds Fonseca and Sandeman - along with 1980took third spot at $1040. Grange still remains a good investment.” Warres - all attracted strong bidding and cleared extremely well. With Australian The market for most Penfolds products Good clearances were again recorded fortifieds, famous producers like Hardys withremains strong, with demand still outstripping for Henschke’s Keyneton Estate and Mt its Reserve Bin ports from the 1940s thoughsupply. February clearances were healthy, Edelstone, while clearances for Hill of Grace to the ’60s, early Orlando Vintage styles,with good demand for Bins 28, 128, 389, 707 appeared to have slowed a little, especially 1956 Penfolds Club Port (which must be inand St Henri. Bins 407 and a large offering with lots from the mid-1990s. This also near-perfect condition), Seppelt Paras bothof current vintage Bin 60A were a little slow occurred with Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, dated and numbered, along with Stonyfellto clear, as were lots offered with noticeable with buyers interested only in lots from the Vintage Ports, all continue to attract stronglabel damage, weeping corks and low levels. late 2000s. Large offerings of mature Grosset bidding and excellent clearances. For furtherOn the Grange front, the hefty offering Polish Hill Riesling (1997 through to 2002) and information visit www.oddbins.com.au.from the 1985 vintage failed, somewhat Pipers Brook Riesling (’94 through to ’99) allsurprisingly, to arouse much buyer interest cleared exceptionally well, while ‘surprise GRAYS ONLINE- although most of the remaining vintages packets’ included the strong take-up of most (JANUARY/FEBRUARY REPORT)(including those in the imperfect section) 2006 Massena The Eleventh Hour Shiraz, Port The online auction market for everyday drinkingcleared well. Over the past five years or so, Phillip Estate’s Premium 2005 Morillon Pinot wine had a positive start in 2010, showingOddbins auctioneer/valuer Graham Wright Noir and the almost total clearance of the hefty marginal slowdown following the Christmashas reported the health of the Grange market offering of table wines from Katnook Estate. period.GraysOnlineranmorethan400auctionsthrough The Oddbins Good Grange Guide - a online during January/February - from red andprice index which looks at the prices paid for Australia’s thirst for European wine styles white wine to regional and country-themedthe key 1986, ’90, ’94 and ’96 vintages and grows. As evidenced in the retail market, sales, with bidding starting at $9.is on the company’s website. buyers at auction are also keen to procure well-priced Bordeaux (reds and Sauternes) Of the 89,000 plus cases of wine auctioned “When I first constructed this index, the as well as rare offerings like the 1945 online during the two months, sauvignon blancmarket for the famous 1998 vintage was Chateau Petrus which topped Oddbins emerged as the star performer, accountinghighly variable and inconsistent, and hence Top Ten hammer price list for imported for 14 per cent of total volume sold. This wasI left this vintage out of the index until such wines, fetching $5250. Red Burgundy followed by chardonnay, which capturedtime as the data could be deemed reliable remains popular, with buyers tending 11 per cent. Wines from New Zealand’s AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 89

wine investment & collectingMarlborough region continue to dominate the A WORLD ageing potential and current highs andsauvignon blanc segment, with 2008 Glacier OF WINE lows investment value. “The vision is toSprings the best-selling item by volume and - ONLINE create a fluid, transparent, auditable, tradingfetching a hammer price of $164 a case.* environment for wine,” Eamonn adds. It would be a great party trick to say, “While we are seeing a lot of quality “I have my Latour stored in London, my Like an ‘e-broker’, the company thenAustralian sauvignon blanc entering the Romanee Conti stored in Hong Kong and gives advice on alternatives to sell themarket from areas such as the Adelaide my Grange stored in Sydney.” But you can wine, either to wholesalers, by auctionHills and Pemberton, our New Zealand do just that by subscribing to Cellar Link, or direct to retail, each with a differentcounterparts continue to enjoy the best a full wine investment service provider. commission structure. An automatedprices and lion’s share of the market,” says algorithm within the management portalCameron Poolman, CEO of GraysOnline. “We This is no throwaway line for indulgent gives information on when to buy, sell, orare, however, seeing an increased supply of wine snobs, but a very serious online hold. “It's a business. We control it, wepinot gris and expect this to become more subscription-based portal that manages wine track it, we sell it,” says Eamonn. “Wepopular among everyday buyers mid-year.” investors’ cellars from ‘cradle to grave’. don’t own the brands, but we need to brand-build in a parallel environment. In the red wine auction market, shiraz and A relative newcomer to the winecabernet sauvignon were the favourites investment scene, Cellar Link began “If you are a wine investor, why buyfollowing an increased supply from McLaren operations in 2008, after the management Grange in London and ship it back toVale. These two varieties accounted for buyout of Australian Portfolio Wines. With Australia. It’s cheaper to keep it in bondmore than 40 per cent of total red wine sales a new $1 million wine management portal in a temperature-controlled warehouse inby volume. McLaren Vale shiraz fetched the the company took over the 2000 existing London which we monitor. Without movingbest prices, with 2006 Pirramimma Stock’s members and offered them a revolutionary the wine it can be listed on the internetHill Shiraz selling at $199 a case. new plan to safeguard and enhance the without further cost.” value of their cellars. Another notable trend in 2010 is an CELLAR LINKincrease in demand for back vintages which Company director Eamonn Egan explainsare no longer available in liquor stores. “Back that the wine investment market is not Premium Global Wine Solutionsvintages continue to do well, with pre-2006 necessarily a panacea for never-endingvintages in strong demand,” says Cameron. growth and profits. “One of the biggest“The 2004 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa issues that the investment companiesShiraz was especially popular among buyers in Australia faced was that they neverand we’re now selling the 2007 vintage after dealt with the liquidation of stock,” heour current supply sold out.” says. “When it was all bling to have Duck Muck and Astralis and other fashionable Labels sold exclusively via GraysOnline wines and you could get more for themcontinue to perform well, as more and more in five minutes at auction than you paidwineries look for alternative channels to for them, that was fine. But where is yoursell their wine. Private labels such as Eight exit strategy when it becomes all aboutCarat from Geoff Johnston are catching the volumes and commissions and stockingattention of buyers, fetching up to $154 a wines that have not sold through thecase. Other top contenders in the private retail trade?”label market include the Pan Terra Reserverange. “Wineries are looking to GraysOnline To satisfy his clients, Eamonn developedto establish a market for their less-well-known a global multi-currency trading systemlabels, a trend we expect will continue whereby his client’s stocks could bethroughout the year,” says Cameron. held in storage in any of the three main wine hubs of London, Sydney Highlights from GraysOnline private cellar or Hong Kong (with San Francisco tosales included a 1945 vintage Grandfather come). “We don't manage the storagePort, which sold for $259. Australian classics facilities, but we manage the peoplesuch as Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz also who do that, but at a much higherfared well, with a six-bottle case of the ’98 level of authentication than most othervintage selling for $409. Meanwhile, a single organisations,” he says. Then, throughbottle of 1993 Penfolds Grange went for $334, the company’s wine management portal,a bargain for any avid Penfolds collector. clients can track their wines via city of storage, barcode, bay number, product GraysOnline runs at least six daily wine code, full wine description, tax status,auctions featuring a range of red andwhite wines and regional and country-specific sales. For more information visitwww.graysonline.com. *Prices listed exclude buyer’s premium.90 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

best of the west THE WINE REGIONS OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA 2010 Laurance Cellar. EXPLORING WA’S WINE REGIONS - 532 WINES TASTEDGreat Southern Margaret River Pember ton Blackwood Valley Per th Hills Geographe Swan District Manjimup Peel

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINWESTERN AUSTRALIAKNEE DEEP IN SUCCESS KIMBERLEY CUISINE an award-winning Parisian architect and handcrafted with local stone and timber,KNEE Deep began operation only in 2000 but LEADING chefs Pete Evans and Chris Taylor offers beautiful boutique accommodationhas rapidly established a reputation as one headline the 2010 Cooking School Calendar that’s a perfect base for exploring theof the best winery dining options in Margaret at Faraway Bay, the acclaimed East Kimberley wineries and gourmet food producers ofRiver - a region blessed with a number of wilderness retreat that hosts regular gourmet Pemberton and Manjimup.great eateries. Former New Zealand junior events. Chris will stage two Kimberleychef of the year Bradley Hornby, formerly Cooking Schools in May and Pete, a TV Set in 65ha of lush forest, trufferies, riversof Huka Lodge and Lizard Island, is serving chef, returns for the second annual Celebrity and dams, Stonebarn is described as “ancontemporary Australasian cuisine in a Cooking School in September. Faraway Bay idyllic secluded haven” and has just sixlovely vineyard setting, while his partner Liz will also host its third annual Bush Tucker and splendid guest suites with four-poster king-Buttimore, who has worked in several top Camp Oven Cooking School in August. size beds and private balconies overlookingrestaurants, runs the dining room. the dam and forest. All have well-equipped Faraway Bay owner Bruce Ellison says kitchenettes and stylish ensuites that include The emphasis is on fine West Australian antique claw-foot baths, separate showerproduce and the menu features entrees like guests love a gourmet experience in such and double vanities.confit of Plantagenet pork belly with white a remote and unique location. “Our cookingbean and ham hock salad and apple puree schools are hugely popular because it’s Owner Dion Range spent several yearsor an Exmouth prawn terrine with scallop a chance to not only learn tricks and tips creating his dream retreat, where guestsbeignets, while mains may include slow- from some of Australia’s best chefs, but enjoy a full gourmet breakfast and three-roasted Mount Barker chicken breast with also enjoy the freshest local produce in an course dinner of dishes like smokedconfit garlic and herb semolina or butter- amazing location.” trout, avocado and egg cocktail androasted tenderloin of Harvey beef. braised lamb shank teamed with pine nut The schools are conducted in open-air polenta and brocollini, followed by vanilla ‘Trust the Chef’ menus of three or five Eagle Lodge, perched on a headland panacotta with seasonal fruits.courses cost $58 and $79 respectively and overlooking the waters of Faraway Bay. Thedesserts are a highlight. The wine list features four-day packages starting from $4550 per Stonebarn also makes its own red and whitethe Knee Deep wines made by former person include air transfers from Kununurra, wines and has an extensive cellar, while theLeeuwin Estate winemaker Bob Cartwright. lessons, meals and drinks, accommodation trufferie is set to produce its first truffles laterThe cellar door is open 10am-5pm daily and in a cabin with 180-degree water views, this year. Visit www.stonebarn.com.au.the restaurant from noon-4pm. Private dinners, sightseeing, excursions and fishing. Phoneincluding chef’s table functions in the kitchen, (08) 9169 1214; www.farawaybay.com.au. HIRE A HIDEAWAYare available to small groups. Phone (08) 97556776; www.kneedeepwines.com.au DREAM RETREAT BLOSSOMS MARGARET River has some of the country’s most beautiful and affordablePASSES TO SWAN AROUND PEMBERTON now has world-class rental accommodation. Among the accommodation and is about to have its standouts is Baudin Heights atSWAN Valley visitors have a good reason to own trufferie. Stonebarn, designed by Gnarabup, a rammed limestone homehit local cellar doors with the launch of two with six double bedrooms, two kitchens,new low-cost touring programs. The Cellar extensive ocean views from all rooms,Door Pass, which includes $120 worth of and a tennis court. It can be rentedpremium wines, premium wine tasting, in its entirety or as two separate self-winery tours and other special offers, contained apartments.retails for $99 but is valued at over $200.The Cheese & Wine Trails Pass, at $55 Newcomer Jarrah Grove Retreat is nestledper couple, includes a hamper of cheese within 34ha of forested estate 15 minutesand local produce to take on a four-course from Margaret River township and featuresprogressive tasting to wineries. an open-air hot tub on the deck, while the self contained, three-bedroom Arcadia See www.swanvalley.com.au or www. Cottage is in a bush setting. Prices start fromcellardoorpass.com.au. The perfect time to $150 per night. See www.baudinheights.visit is for Spring in the Valley, one of the largest com.au, www.jarrahgroveretreat.com.food and wine events in the country, held over au and www.margaretriver.com/accom_the second weekend in October every year. result1/arcadia-cottage/92 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

travelbriefs wine tasting start from $25 per person, laws in the world, the Bavarian Purity while a tour, wine tasting and five-course Laws of 1516. Elmar and Anette Dieren degustation lunch, including wine, costs came to Australia from Germany in 1987, $140. Phone (08) 9757 6354. bringing with them German machinery, knowledge, experience and a passion TASTEFUL CONVERSION for smallgoods production. Following the success of two smallgoods stores, HAY Shed Hill in Margaret River has in Highgate and Myaree, Elmar’s in the converted its old winery into a gourmet Valley was developed, incorporating deli and cafe, with balconies that Elmar’s passion for quality smallgoods and overlook the 35-year-old vineyard in the traditional beers with Anette’s love of fine Willyabrup valley. Nick Young, the on-site food. See www.elmars.com.au cheesemaker and café manager, hasBUBBLES EXPANDING hand-selected benchmark Australian WHISKY AMID WINE and international cheeses, cured meatsVISITORS to the two Howard Park cellar and other gourmet deli products. WHILE the Great Southern is known asdoors in Margaret River and Denmark The menu includes gourmet pizzas, paninis, a fine wine region, it also produces onecan expect to taste a lot more sparkling cheese platters, salads, homemade cakes of Australia’s best whiskies. The Greatwine in the future. Owner Jeff Burch has and slices. The deli/café, open daily from Southern Distilling Company at Albanyannounced an expansion of sparkling wine 10am to 5pm, also offers an array of in- is the only single malt whisky distillery inproduction - including contract making - at house and local gourmet products and Western Australia and its flagship productboth wineries. features artworks by Nick Economo and is Limeburners, made exclusively from Andrew Hawes. Phone (08) 9755 6046. locally sourced raw materials, including “Western Australia makes some great peat from Porongurup.chardonnays, so it seems a natural DASH OF OLD DEUTSCHprogression to focus on using that as Visitors are also able to sample locallya base for sparkling wines as well,” he ELMAR’S in the Swan Valley boasts that made brandy, grappa, gin, vodka andsays. “We’ve been making sparkling it is the largest glass micro-brewery in fruit liqueurs.wine at Howard Park using method the southern hemisphere, but is also atraditionelle for a few years now and, German-style restaurant, smallgoods The family-owned operation, started by localjust like our still bottling line, the producer and gift shop. The modern glass lawyer Cameron Syme, started commercialsparkling product will be made with and copper kettles are visible through production in 2005. The distillery andstate-of-the-art equipment.” See www. windows from the bar. coffee lounge are open daily from 10-5pm.howardparkwines.com.au. See www.distillery.com.au. The beer is brewed to the exactingVOYAGE BY BONGO standards of the oldest food standard Left: Stonebarn. Right: Hay Shed Hill. Opposite page: The Great Southern Distilling Company.LEADING Margaret River winery VoyagerEstate has started unique tours of theestate’s grounds, vineyards, winery andAustralia’s largest underground barrelcellar on the back of a Bongo bus. Visitorscan then choose to complete the tourwith a private tasting of some of VoyagerEstate’s most prestigious wines, followedby a range of lunch options. The tours are available on Tuesdays,Thursdays and Sundays and highlightthe remarkable gardens and the estate’sCape Dutch architecture. Tours with a May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 93

HOME OF THE FAMOUS ELEGANCE AND EXCELLENCE “Chick on a Stick” London, for the Icon Cabernet 2007; weddings, cocktail parties, corporate gold in Femmes et Vins Du Monde functions, product launches, birthday Concours International, France, for the parties and group wine tastings. 2007 Chardonnay; and gold at the Sydney International Wine Show, for the 2009 Rose. From intimate garden ceremonies to elaborate weddings, from cocktail-style Laurance vineyard was voted “Most canapes to formal dining or buffets, the Outstanding in Western Australia” in 2009 choice is extensive. The little details are by the WA Wine Industry Association. important at Laurance and wedding and event coordinators play an integral role in assisting While striving towards becoming an with all aspects of planning to ensure each organic vineyard in the future, Laurance has event is a celebration to remember. implemented holistic viticultural practices growing from the ground up, by reducing The menus have been designed to the use of harmful sprays and activating complement the award-winning wines and the microbiology of the soils under vine. cater for clients’ specific requirements. The large merchandising area has the perfect In September 2006 Laurance cellar opened gift for any occasion. and soon established itself as a “must see” tourist destination. The cellar is family- Laurance is open daily from 10am to friendly with its state-of-the-art playground, 5pm except Christmas Day. Food service extensive grassed area for children to play begins at 11am. and a specific children’s menu. LAURANCE CELLAR Laurance offers wine tastings using trays 3518 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup WA 6280 and patrons are encouraged to sit at a Phone: +61 8 9750 4000 table and relax and enjoy the ambience Fax: +61 8 9750 4004 of this breathtaking venue while tasting E-mail: [email protected] wines under no pressure. The casual dining Web: www.laurancewines.com options showcase fresh and reasonablyLAURANCE, established in May 2001, is priced local produce.255km south of Perth and falls within theworld-renowned premium viticultural region With its rustic charm and Europeanof Margaret River. The estate consists of sophistication, the building has been40ha of prime viticultural land, with 23ha constructed of prefabricated concreteunder vines, comprising three white and and its unique finish gives the perceptionthree red varieties, planted in 1996. of age. Ironbark timbers sourced from the old Wooloomooloo wharf in Sydney Laurance produces 10 wines in their feature throughout the building, along withportfolio under the label “Laurance of beautiful artworks and sculptures fromMargaret River”. The wines are among around Australia. Visitors are greeted atthe best in the region and are presented the entrance by two chandeliers made ofin unique and elegant screen-printed wine glasses; the cellar is temperature-bottles providing a point of difference. controlled by a huge open fire and reverse-The wine and the packaging have been cycle air-conditioning, and the toilets arerecognised with outstanding national something to behold.and international awards including goldat the Decanter World Wine Awards, The terrace leads onto undulating lawns which frame a magnificent 1000-bush rose garden fronting a tranquil lake setting, making Laurance a perfect venue for94 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

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FABULOUS WINES FROM AN EXTRAORDINARY REGIONSITUATED in the celebrated Willyabrup be approachable and at excellent price “Geographe Vineyard wines are reallyregion and surrounded by a cluster points - styles that do not need a master exciting and allow Fermoy to offerof stellar wineries, Fermoy produces of wine to understand.” consumers even more choice,” saysquintessential Margaret River wines of the Michael Matthews. “There is proven stronghighest quality. They’re enjoyed throughout Fermoy produces a cabernet sauvignon, demand for our Geographe Wines and theAustralia and the world, and the latest cabernet merlot, merlot, shiraz and arguably new label will only increase that demand,releases are definitely the most refined and Australia’s best nebbiolo, as well as our especially with the younger demographic.flavoursome in a shining 25-year history. much-acclaimed semillon, chardonnay, A quarter century of history, integrity semillon sauvignon blanc and sauvignon and quality have made Fermoy the great A total of 17 hectares is now under vine at blanc. We also make our highly sought winery it is today, and given us the skillsFermoy, producing a yield of approximately after Reserve Range in tiny quantities, from to make great wines.”140 tonnes of grapes - and what fabulous only the very best fruit in the best vintages.fruit it is. The classic varieties thrive in this Unfortunately, we never have enough! FERMOY ESTATEexceptional wine producing region. 838 Metricup Rd, Metricup WA 6280; This year marks an exciting milestone PO Box 123 Cowaramup, WA 6284 “We produce wines that we want people for the winery with the release the newly Phone: +61 8 9755 6285to share with family and friends; wines labelled Geographe Vineyards 2009 Fax: +61 8 9755 6251that are food-friendly and stimulate Shiraz, soon to be followed by the 2010 E-mail: [email protected]” says Fermoy CEO Michael Chardonnay. The first vintage sold out so Web: www.fermoy.com.auMatthews. “While we are carrying on a quickly that this year’s production has moretradition of quality, we want our wines to than doubled to meet demand.FULL OF GRACEWINES OF PRESENCE, STYLE AND ELEGANCE“I’m sure the grand old man of 19th century cricket would have been delightedto have his name on a wine as good as the HEYDON ESTATE “WG GRACE”cabernet sauvignon 2004…. An excellent example of classy cabernet headinginto the next phase in its development”. RAY JORDAN, The WEST MAGAZINE, 6th March 2010.Current release bottle aged wines include this HEYDON ESTATE “WG GRACE” cabernetsauvignon 2004, trophy winner at the Margaret River Wine Show, for Best Cabernet.HEYDON ESTATE wines available at select restaurants and specialty wine shops,or ORDER via the web site.WINESTATE SPECIAL – free freight in MAY.www.heydonestate.com.au

You should try these delicious wines, you will love them. Order now - limited stocks BEST SHIRAZ Lavan Legal Margaret River Wine Show 2009 (2008 Vintage) GOLD Qantas WA Wine Show 2009 (”Ornatus” Cab franc blend 2008) GOLD Sydney Royal Wine Show 2010 (”Ornatus” Cab franc blend 2008) BEST ESTATE GROWN RED WINE CCI WA Wine Industry Awards 2008 (Shiraz 2005) WINESTATE 5 STAR Best in West 2010 (Cabernet Merlot 2008)Certified Organic VineyardNASAA cert no. 6299Merops Wines is a family owned vineyard in the heart of the famous Margaret Riverwine region. Our philosophy is 'care for the environment' - our wine is ourpassion. Merops Wine will be enjoyed for unique Margaret River flavours as thevines are nurtured to produce their best and the wine made using traditionalmethods and oak barrel maturation. Each vintage will tell its own story as it reflectson the season, but one thing will remain consistant - the quality will not becompromised. We hope you will enjoy some MeropsWine and treasure somememorable moments as you enjoy a little bit of paradise bottled for your pleasure.Secure online orders • www.meropswines.com.aurder ines Email orders • [email protected] Phone orders • 08 9757 9195Available Margaret River, Perth, Queensland, Victoria. See website (or phone) for outlets.

532 TASTED277 AWARDEDBEST OF THE WESTAlways one of our most interesting tastings, the Westdelivered again, with the signature ‘classic’ whites up tostandard and, of course, cabernet sauvignon at its best.But don’t forget an excellent group of shiraz wines.The ’09 chardonnays were a little premature but in themeantime enjoy the ’08s and ’07s, showing those extrasecondary aged characters.SPARKLING Fonty’s Pool Pemberton Barwick Estates Pemberley Pemberton Sparkling Brut 2008 HHH Black Label Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc13 TASTED Bright, light and lively pear/ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHH5 AWARDED citrus wine with a fine bead 2009 HHHHH Pungent, grassy and herbaceous and clean, crisp, effervescent Huge and very varietal nose - lots style with aromas of nettles andOverall, these were generally acidity. $22 of pea pod and herbs. Powerful a fresh, juicy palate showingcommercial in style, made palate with very obvious elegance, length, and texture.for the popular market. A Xabregas Show sauvignon blanc flavours thatfew worthy performers were Reserve Great Southern linger on and on, and excellent 3-5 $24.99well-made, albeit simple, easy- Sparkling Chardonnay acidity to balance. $20drinking wines. Pinot Noir 2007 HHH Watershed Senses Howard Park Margaret Quite pink, with lifted Margaret River Sauvignon River Sauvignon BlancJarrah Ridge Swan Valley strawberry bouquet and good Blanc 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHHSparkling Shiraz NV HHHH flavour depth with light yeast Nicely developed, seamlessly Fresh, lifted passionfruitOld World nose - smells spicy/ autolysis. $29.99 balanced wine that’s a aromas. Great zippy sauvignongamey/chocolaty and berry-like. harmony of grassy, herbaceous blanc fruit flavours on the palateBig, rich, spicy/chocolaty palate SAUVIGNON fruits and tight acidity. Barrel and lovely acid backbone with awith some complexity and BLANC ferment/leesy nose and lingering end. 3-5 $25good acid/sweet balance. $28 lingering flavours. $24.95 30 TASTED Galafrey Savvy Moss Brothers MargaretOld Kent River 18 AWARDED Mt Barker Sauvignon River Sauvignon BlancDiamondtina Method Blanc 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2Champenoise Frankland Good, even class of wines Subdued nose - slight tropical Clean, fresh and very elegantRiver Sparkling Pinot with some regional differences characters with hints of nettles. wine that has a subdued noseChardonnay 2006 HHH1/2 showing. For example, there Clean, fresh and fruity palate and a soft, juicy palate withSubtle and slightly dusty were ‘nettle’-like characters with good balance and structure good fruit length. $27aromas. Clean, fresh palate from Pemberton and ‘pea pod’ and big, soft flavours. $18with delicate, lingering flavour from Margaret River. These Chalice Bridge Margaret Alkoomi Frankland Riverprofile and refreshing acidity. are a viable alternative to the River Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Kiwi styles. 2009 HHHH Fine herbal bouquet and well- 5+ $30 Very varietal, with a grassy, balanced palate. Some good pungent bouquet and fresh, flavours and a hint of residualCapel Vale Debut zippy palate showing good sugar. $15.89Western Australia level of flavours and verySparkling Brut NV HHH nice acid structure. Lingering Plantagenet OmrahCandied, fruit-driven aromas aftertaste. $19.95 Mt Barker Sauvignonand a simple but well- Blanc 2009 HHHconstructed, slightly sweet, Good varietal definition - lotspalate. $17.95 of herbs nicely balanced by grassy/floral characters. $19 Deep Woods Estate Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Pungent, smoky nose. Warming in the mouth, with great texture, balance and fruit depth. $19.9598 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

regional tastingTruffle Hill Pemberton SAUVIGNON Flametree Margaret Truffle Hill PembertonSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH BLANC SEMILLON River Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc SemillonSlight lemon curd characters Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHHto the nose, followed by a 34 TASTED Bright, fresh and grassy on Clean, crisp, fresh tropical/pear/crisp palate with good fruit 20 AWARDED the nose, with a well-balanced peach style. Some residual sugarweight. $19.99 palate showing “spot on” balanced by crisp acidity. $16.99Millbrook Perth Hills Overall, a strong class for this varietal fruit. $19 Brown Hill LakeviewSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH blend, which is a signature Gallows Wine Car Park Margaret River SauvignonPungent nose with a style for WA. “Most had good Margaret River Blanc Semillon 2009 HHHperfumed lift. Good flavour structure and aromatics,” said Sauvignon Blanc Zesty lemon aromas with a floraldepth, with subtle acidity and one judge. “There was a good Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 lift, and soft, balanced palatea nice finish. $21.95 selection of regionality here, from Reserved nose with some with fresh, zippy flavours. $17Abbey Creek Porongorup the warmer regions to the cooler delightfully crisp, nettley notes. Barking Owl WesternSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH ones,” commented another. Very juicy palate. Excellent Australia Sauvignon BlancQuite a floral nose, followed example of style. $19.99 CM Semillon 2009 HHHby a fresh and friendly palate Skuttlebutt Margaret Voyager Estate Margaret Fantastic wine. Reallyshowing vibrant fruit laced with River Sauvignon Blanc River Sauvignon Blanc interesting, complex aromas andacid. $22 Semillon 2009 HHHH Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 flavours. “Great pedigree,” saidTassell Park Wines Pungent, leesy, herbaceous Pungent, sweaty aromas; hints one judge. $17.95Margaret River Sauvignon nose with some fresh citrus of asparagus. Well-structured Capel Vale Debut WesternBlanc 2009 HHH nuances. Brimming over with palate with fresh herbaceous/ Australia Sauvignon BlancRiper style, with aromas of flavour. Excellent acid balance grassy characters. $24 Semillon 2009 HHHmelons and some residual and a clean finish. 3-5 $19 Watershed Shades Light and lemony on thesugar on the long palate. $22 Margaret River Sauvignon nose, with a muscat-likeMatilda’s Vineyard Vasse Felix Margaret Blanc Semillon 2009 HHH tone, and a big, rich palateWestern Australia River Sauvignon Blanc Clean, faultless varietal with tight with acid. $17.95Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Semillon 2009 HHHH persistent grassy/herbaceous Harewood EstateBig, full-on nose with a pungent, Complex nose; herbaceous characters and loads of Great Southern Sauvignonsweaty character and big, full- and pungent. Big varietal acidity. $16.95 Blanc Semillon 2009 HHHflavoured palate high in acid. $25 flavours linger long and mingle Herbaceous/citrus aromas withPaul Nelson Mt Barker seamlessly with the crisp acidity. Castle Lion Western a musky edge. Simple flavoursFume Blanc 2009 HHH Cellaring potential. 5+ $25 Australia Sauvignon Blanc and well-handled residualPungent/leesy nose with hints Semillon 2009 HHH sugar. $19.50of fresh citrus. Pleasant palate Beach Head Margaret Slight mintiness on the nose. Windance Margarethas length and complexity. $35 River Sauvignon Blanc Clean, fresh and simple palate River Sauvignon BlancSomerset Hill Great with nice flavour profile. $12.99 Semillon 2009 HHHSouthern Sauvignon Blanc Subtle peach/melon nose and2008 HHH nicely constructed palate richGood clean, fresh example of with fruit. $20the sauvignon blanc variety. Tassell Park WinesSoft and well balanced. $19 Margaret River SauvignonWillow Bridge Estate Blanc Semillon 2009 HHHWild Ferment Pemberton Excellent varietal characters onSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH the nose and good balance ofSmoky, pungent herbal/melon flavours with a possible hint ofnose and lively fresh fruit oak. $22flavours nicely balanced bycrisp acid. $22 Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 Lovely lemon zest aromas with just a hint of mint. Big spritzig palate; wonderful varietal fruit and clean acid. 3-5 $17Rob Bowen Paul Nelson JUDGESSenior Winemaker/Regional Winemaker for Galafreygeneral manager of the as well as his own Larry JorgensenHoughton wine company. Paul Nelson brand. Sales and MarketingMore than thirty years Worked extensively as Manager for Celestialexperience as a winemaker a winemaker in South Bay Wines. Formerand consultant. Has Africa, India, Germany, Cellar Door Manager atworked with Plantagenet, Cypress and California. Lamont’s Winery andCapel Vale, and Willow currently also a lecturerBridge. Has had overseas in Wine Appreciationexperience in the UK, for the Wine IndustryFrance and New Zealand. Association of WA. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 99

BEST OF THE WESTSandalford Estate Reserve Matilda’s Vineyard Swings & RoundaboutsMargaret River Sauvignon Denmark Classic White Margaret River CheninBlanc Semillon 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH Blanc 2009 HHHSimple, asparagus-like aromas Lovely pungent orange Subtle apple-like aromas leadingand a soft, well-balanced palate blossom/tropical fruit bouquet to a delicate well balancedwith more of the asparagus and crisp, peachy palate with palate - lively and fresh. $17notes. $22.95 phenolic character balanced byXanadu Margaret River zesty acidity. $18 Windance Margaret RiverSauvignon Blanc Blackboy Ridge Geographe Chenin Blanc 2009 HHHSemillon 2009 HHH Classic White 2009 HHH Zesty lemon bouquet andWell-flavoured, fresh, crisp Lifted aromatics on the nose sweet peach and melon fruitwine that has depth, balance and fragrantly sweet flavours palate with lingering freshand great structure. $26 on a slightly oily palate. $15 acidity. 3-5 $17Fonty’s Pool Lucia Limited Lost Lake PembertonRelease Pemberton Classic White 2009 HHH OTHER WHITE Millbrook WesternSauvignon Blanc Semillon Floral/muscat characters on the VARIETALS Australia Viognier2008 HHH nose and some long, lingering, 2009 HHHHLots of oak on the nose, following persistent fruit flavours. $15 16 TASTED Smells like marmalade withthrough to the palate and mixing 9 AWARDED a touch of lavender. Warm,with herbaceous flavours. $22 CHENIN BLANC oily palate with subtle oakSuckfizzle Margaret River Some good results. supporting the varietal fruit.Sauvignon Blanc 8 TASTED “Management and alcohol Lingering on the finish. $21.95Semillon 2007 HHH 5 AWARDED are the great issues here,” Poacher’s Ridge Louis’Big, balanced well-structured A variety often associated with said one judge. “When these Block Great Southernwine with good flavour WA. The best here were nicely are done well they are very Marsanne 2009 HHHcomplexity and lots of acid. $45 balanced, while some suffered ‘gluggable’, good everyday Apricot bouquet with floral notes.Willow Bridge Estate from being a touch too sweet. drinking.” Definite potential. Well-textured palate has nice fruitDragonfly Western on the mid-palate. $16.99Australia Sauvignon Blanc Churchview Estate Beckett’s Flat Single Sandalford EstateSemillon 2009 HHH Silverleaf Margaret River Vineyard Estate Reserve Margaret RiverSubtle wine with leafy Chenin Blanc 2009 HHHH Margaret River Verdelho Verdelho 2009 HHHherbaceous fruit, some residual Nicely handled wine with 2009 HHHH1/2 Floral/honeysuckle bouquet andsugar and balancing acid. citrus, limes and passionfruit Delightfully spicy nose with fresh, vibrant palate with greatCrowd pleaser. $16.50 lifting off the nose and nice a delicate floral lift. Warming flavour balance. $22.95 fruit flavours with good palate more on the savoury Capel Vale CellarOTHER WHITE residual/acid balance. $12.50 side, with good fruit complexity Exclusive GeographeBLENDS Oakover Wines White and texture and elegant acid Viognier 2009 HHH Label Western Australia spine in support. $19.50 Oily, rich and restrained wine12 TASTED Chenin Blanc 2009 HHH with gorgeous spicy/honeysuckle/4 AWARDED Sweaty, rockmelon aromas melon characters. $26.95 with musky notes. Big, rich and Millbrook Estate“Most of these lacked sweet in the mouth. $12.99 Capel Vale Debut Western Australiaaromatics,” thought one judge, Paul Conti Tuart Vineyards Western Australia Viognier 2009 HHH“although the best showed lift Western Australia Chenin Verdelho 2009 HHHH Leesy, rockmelon-like aromasand vibrant acidity.” Another Blanc 2009 HHH Big wine with spicy/honeysuckle and warm, lingering varietalcommented, “These aren’t Smells of apples and pears, aromas and talcum-like fruit flavours. $35expected to be complex. If with more of the same on the characters. Palate has good fruitthey are good to drink then generous palate. Good acid complexity, great acid texture Lillian Pembertonthat’s what it’s all about.” level. $16 and warming alcohol. $17.95 Viognier 2008 HHH Gherardi Margaret River Not particularly varietal but aHarewood Estate White Viognier 2008 HHHH very rich, fresh, clean wine withRabbit Great Southern Honeyed characters developing a nice fresh, clean finish. $26Classic White 2009 HHHH on the nose, with spicy pearBright nose with complexity of drop notes. Well-integratedlifted tropical/herbaceous/citrus varietal flavours linger acrossaromas. Good depth of complex the length of the palate. $18.50flavours carrying some residualsugar. 3-5 $16.50100 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010