Winestate Magazine December 2020

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND December 2020 Issue 170 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411 In this issue... New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

159 TASTED 89 AWARDED NEW RELEASES Some interesting changes here with wine results reflecting the Cassegrain Edition mood for vibrancy and varietal character rather than maturity and Noir Hilltops Fiano excess oak characters. Here we saw both alternative whites and 2020 HHH1/2 reds do well with their mid-weight fruit driven styles to the fore, A lifted tropical nose along with grenache. On a negative note rosés were hammered with mineral nuances along with cabernet and cabernet blends with older shiraz not and a full-bodied, nicely showing as well as hoped. structured, stonefruit palate. $30 SPARKLING Jansz Premium OTHER WHITE Susuro Octopus Oakover Western Tasmania Sparkling VARIETALS & South Australia Australia Chenin 8 TASTED Rosé NV HHH1/2 BLENDS Vermentino Blanc 2020 HHH 5 AWARDED Light aromas 2020 HHHH Interesting aromas of reminiscent of 9 TASTED A lifted, estery, hazelnuts and citrus with A nice bunch of quaffers green strawberries 7 AWARDED aromatic floral bouquet a sweet, lifted apple-like with a couple of with a pleasant and and deliciously crisp palate. $16 wines showing more well-balanced fresh A consistent result flavoursome palate with de Capel Wines complexity. strawberry palate. $30 here with super fresh a backbone of lemony Single Vineyard Buller Wines RLB and lively wines most acid. $28 Josephine Hunter Buller Wines The Victoria Sparkling of which were more Precious Little Valley Semillon Nook King Valley Rosé 2020 HHH dry whites rather than Wine Adelaide Hills 2020 HHH Prosecco NV HHHH Perfumed floral true varietals, but good Gruner Veltliner Attractive snow pea- A well-made wine with fragrances and a pleasant drinking, nevertheless. 2020 HHH1/2 like nose with floral elegant peach driven pretty off-dry, fruit driven, Honeysuckle nose with elements and very aromas, zesty lemon palate. $17 a green apple edge citrusy flavours. $25 notes and a clean, Champagne J. De and a simple elegant Blue Pyrenees bright and refreshing Telmont Grand acid driven palate with Estate Cellar Door palate. $23 Couronnement peppery notes. $25 Series Pyrenees Champagne Viognier 2020 HHH Carmine's The Henry 2006 HHH Subtle apricot fragrances SEA Sparkling Toasty nutty bouquet with a toasty creamy Shiraz NV HHH1/2 and tasting of apple pie oak palate and nice acid Smells of blackcurrants with good overall buttery line. $28 and licorice with obvious maturity. $NA Zonte's Footstep sweetness and vanilla Lady Of The Lake oak on the smooth dark Fleurieu Viognier fruit palate. $20 2020 HHH Slight candied floral fruit bouquet with a drying apricot driven palate. $30 JUDGES - DAY 1 Sara Zhang Susan Mickan Winemaker at TWG (The Wine Winemaker. Has worked Shane Harris Group). Previously vintaged 34 vintages including Winemaker for Wines by at Berri Estates, West Cape across Australia, Geoff Hardy including, Howe, WA and Grower New Zealand, China, K1 and Handcrafted by Wine Group in Australia. Spain. Some wineries Geoff Hardy Wines. Has Overseas includes Villa Maria, including Kirrihill, Pernod also completed vintages Marlborough and Bordeaux Ricard, Penfolds, Helan in Queensland and for six months, Right Bank Mountain (China) and Victoria. Completed the Chateaux, through a Bordeaux Cambo Viego. Judged at AWRI advanced sensory consultant. Has judged at the numerous wine shows course and has associate Riverland Wineshow. around Australia. judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show. 102 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting SAUVIGNON Patrick of RIESLING Run Free by Georgie May by BLANC Coonawarra Mother Singlefile Geoff Merrill Of Pearl Coonawarra 2 TASTED Western Australia McLaren Vale 8 TASTED & Wrattonbully 2 AWARDED Chardonnay & Coonawarra 5 AWARDED Sauvignon Blanc 2019 HHHHH Chardonnay 2020 HHH A strong and consistent Interesting nutty 2019 HHH “Some lovely examples Aromas of citrus and flight of fresh and complexity mixing with A toasty nutty of the variety here,” apples with crisp, clean vibrant wines across ripe stonefruit aromas complexity on the nose noted one judge. “Some and zesty grapefruit different styles ranging and a delicious, complex and a tight reserved incredibly punchy flavours. $19 from off dry, dry and and beautifully balanced palate. Will reward with wines.” But there were austere to the textured palate showing fantastic cellaring. $25 others that were just PINOT GRIS/ and layered examples. varietal fruit weight. $25 borderline, lacking PINOT GRIGIO “This is now a variety Nazaaray Singlefile freshness for the 2020 offering something for Mornington Family Reserve vintage. 5 TASTED every palate; just work Peninsula Great Southern 4 AWARDED out what you like. Very Chardonnay Chardonnay Rapaura Springs exciting!” said one 2019 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH Classic Marlborough A consistent, clean and judge. Mature honeyed/ Honeyed melon Sauvignon Blanc well-made group of stonefruit nose. Great aromas and a pleasant 2020 HHHH1/2 wines for early drinking, Patrick of palate – complex and straightforward buttery Super lifted intense as one judge said, Coonawarra Estate seamlessly balanced fruit/oak palate. $60 tropical bouquet with “Wines for drinking not Coonawarra & with a gorgeous a vibrantly fresh palate for thinking!” Wrattonbully combination of ripe ROSÉ with good weight and Riesling apple and smoky/spicy depth of gooseberry Summerhouse 2020 HHH1/2 oak flavours. $45 9 TASTED flavours, herbaceous Marlborough Pinot A delicate and pretty Andrew Peace Wines 3 AWARDED notes and high acidity. Gris 2020 HHH floral citrus bouquet with Full Moon Boothy's $N/A A nose of guavas and a very rich and intensely Choice Victoria The best were ripe apples with a touch flavoured tropical fruit Chardonnay bright and fresh but Rapaura of sweetness on the palate. $25 2020 HHHH unfortunately were Springs Reserve fruity palate. Appealing! Good complexity for few and far between. Marlborough $N/A Brangayne Of a young wine with Too many wines were Sauvignon Blanc Orange Orange NSW honeyed stonefruit either oxidized or had 2020 HHHH Buller Wines RLB Riesling 2019 HHH nose and flavoursome unbalanced sweetness. An elegance of citrus Victoria Pinot Grigio Honeyed stonefruit nose integration of fruit, oak and tropical aromas and 2020 HHH with obvious sweetness and acid. $20 Summerhouse a palate that is more Subdued varietal on the gooseberry-like Singlefile Marlborough Pinot herbaceous than tropical aromas with a fresh, palate. $25 Great Southern Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 with good level of elegant and slightly Chardonnay Pretty strawberry acidity. $N/A sweet herbaceous CHARDONNAY 2019 HHH1/2 aromas and jubey palate. $17 & BLENDS A complex bouquet of fresh fruit flavours with Summerhouse honeydew melon and good balance between Marlborough Tamburlaine 16 TASTED stone fruits with good sweetness and acid. $N/A Sauvignon Blanc Organic Wine Lovers 6 AWARDED acid drive to the toasty/ 2020 HHHH Wrattonbully Orange oaky palate. $30 Watkins Core VBBAEULSYUTSE A mix of passionfruit Pinot Gris The best examples here Langhorne and gooseberry 2020 HHH had complexity, balance Creek Grenache fragrances and a typical Estery fruit fragrances and length. “Great to Rosé 2020 HHH varietal palate with and a crisp green apple see complexity and Candied raspberry plenty of acid giving palate with a good acid youth, however there bouquet with good freshness. $24 spine. $22 were some wines length of satisfying suffering from ‘tricky flavours on the fine P Series by Patrick Buller Wines winemaking’ with palate. $20 Limestone Coast The Nook King excess use of oak,” said Sauvignon Blanc Valley Pinot Grigio one judge. Hirsch Hill Yarra 2020 HHH1/2 2020 HHH Valley Pinot Noir A pleasant mélange of Flinty citrus nose and a Rosé 2020 HHH citrus, apple and guava slightly sweet, and touch Aromas of cranberries varietal characters with oily, palate with citrus and red apples with pronounced lemony flavours. $23 good, simple, clean acid. $19 flavours. Nice acidity. $22 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 103

NEW RELEASES PINOT NOIR Paulmara Estates De Mount Avoca Estate GRENACHE & Tamburlaine Organic Nero Barossa Nero Organic Pyrenees BLENDS Wine Lovers Orange 4 TASTED D'Avola 2019 HHHH Tempranillo Grenache Shiraz 2 AWARDED Vibrant purple wine 2019 HHH 8 TASTED Malbec 2019 HHHH with spicy raspberry Aroma of prunes and 6 AWARDED Spicy and herbaceous A couple of good fragrances and lovely black olives with ripe aromas with a dash examples that showed bright juicy fruit and juicy plum flavours A strong class of of black pepper and good varietal character. flavours with slightly and grainy tannins. $30 consistent, bright and nice complexity to the dusty oak characters. juicy firm styles. “There well integrated tannic Mount Trio Great Blue Pyrenees are wines that will palate. $22 Southern Pinot Noir 3-5 $22 Estate Cellar Door appeal to the crowds Schwarz Wine 2019 HHH Warburn Estate 1164 Series Pyrenees and to those who are Company The Gamey earthy aromas Riverina Durif Malbec 2019 HHH looking for a little more,” Grower GSM with hints of cherries 2019 HHHH Slight mintiness to the said one judge. “They Barossa Valley and ripe raspberry and Gamey black fruit nose black fruit nose with are accessible and Grenache Shiraz cranberry flavours. $20 to this deep purple the mintiness coming delicious.” Mataro 2019 HHHH wine with lovely jubey through to the palate. Very perfumed candy Lowburn Ferry Home blackcurrant fruit flavours sweet fruit nose with Block Cromwell and angular tannin. $22 5+ $32 flavours of strawberries Pinot Noir Warburn Estate and blackberries and 2018 HHH Antonio Lambrusco Cassegrain Edition layered with soft Mushroomy/earthy style Montepulciano Noir Hilltops tannins. $30 with cherry cola-like Lagrein Riverina Sangiovese notes. Has persistence Lambrusco NV HHH 2019 HHH Watkins Alternatives and presence! $50 Inky wine with dark berry Chocolaty mocha Cab Mac Langhorne and chocolate characters. bouquet. Nice fruit Creek Grenache OTHER RED Stand out oak and tannic presence on the palate 2020 HHH1/2 VARIETALS & finish. $26 with savoury tannins Aromas of raspberries BLENDS Tamburlaine throughout. 3-5 $32 and strawberries and Organic Wine Lovers a deliciously youthful 19 TASTED Super T Central Precious Little Wine crisp, crunchy and 11 AWARDED Ranges Sangiovese Langhorne Creek slightly sweet palate. Cabernet Sauvignon Touriga Nacional $20 A mixed group of mixed 2019 HHH 2018 HHH varietals with mixed Leafy herbal nose and Slightly candied plum results! Overall, the a mature palate with nose with oak on top group showed good earthy flavours and and very oaky palate varietal characters, but mouth coating tannins. with sweet fruit winemaking was the beneath. 3-5 $30 issue. “A number here 3-5 $22 had overripe fruit or Buller Wines The Alluca Single Watkins VBBAEULSYUTSE were over oaked, some Nook Victoria Durif Vineyard McLaren Alternatives had both,” said one 2019 HHH Vale Blewitt Springs Directed judge. “And some were Dark chocolate bouquet Cabernet Franc Intensity Langhorne forced into a style they with a peppery edge 2018 HHH Creek G.S.M. shouldn’t be in!” and brooding complexity Fragrant floral fruit 2019 HHHH on the dark fruit palate. nose with blackberry- like flavours and dusty 3-5 $23 tannins on the palate. 5+ $36 Alluca Single The nose is a delightful Vineyard McLaren compote of spicy earthy Vale Blewitt Springs berry fruit and has Touriga Nacional delicious fruit flavours 2017 HHH laced with vanilla oak. Savoury peppery nose $20 and nice integration of fruit, oak and tannins on a weighty palate. 5+ $36 JUDGES - DAY 2 Sara Zhang Alyson Tannenbaum Susan Mickan Winemaker at TWG (The Wine Winemaker for Vinteloper Winemaker. Has worked Group). Previously vintaged Wines. Previously a 34 vintages including at Berri Estates, West Cape winemaker with Cape across Australia, Howe, WA and Grower Jaffa Wines and vintage New Zealand, China, Wine Group in Australia. winemaker with Yalumba. Spain. Some wineries Overseas includes Villa Maria, Judged at Rutherglen, including Kirrihill, Pernod Marlborough and Bordeaux Limestone Coast and Ricard, Penfolds, Helan for six months, Right Bank Adelaide Hills wine shows. Mountain (China) and Chateaux, through a Bordeaux Vintaged in California and Cambo Viego. Judged at consultant. Has judged at the New Zealand. Completed numerous wine shows Riverland Wineshow. AWAC wine course. around Australia. 104 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Zonte's Footstep Blue Pyrenees Andrew Peace Wines SHIRAZ Love Symbol Estate Estate Red Colour Of Raven 2020/2019 McLaren Vale Pyrenees Cabernet Limestone Coast Grenache Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 17 TASTED 2019 HHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH 14 AWARDED Sweet cranberry Ripe plum nose with Fruity chocolaty nose with bouquet with floral and menthol notes and hints a peppery lift and good A solid to strong and perfumed characters of leather. Palate is a length of herbal/licorice consistent class. and a sweet complexity flavoursome complexity flavours. 3-5 $25 “Generally, these wines of flavours. 3-5 of earthy black fruits and are clean and well $27.50 bright raspberries. Nice Vale Organics made with the best acid structure. 3-5 McLaren Vale showing higher levels Schwarz Wine $42 Cabernet Sauvignon of complexity with Company Meta 2019 HHH balancing oak rather Barossa Valley Zonte's Footstep Oak dominant aromas than filling with oak to Grenache 2020 HHH Blackberry Patch and juicy ripe raspberry replace fruit,” said one Earthy/soy-like aromas Fleurieu Cabernet flavours with good level judge. and a sweet and Tempranillo of acidity. $25 savoury palate. “Clever 2019 HHH1/2 Mount Avoca Estate winemaking and great Violets lift off the dark Colloca Single Organic Pyrenees fruit!” $38 savoury nose with Vineyard Eden Valley Shiraz a slightly warm oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 HHHH1/2 MERLOT & Watkins Alternatives dominated palate but 2018 HHH Very attractive, very BLENDS Real Langhorne there is good fruit there. Fruit cake-like characters youthful inky purple Creek Merlot on the nose and an wine with aromas of 6 TASTED 2019 HHH 3-5 $27.50 enjoyable upfront oak raspberries, licorice Chocolaty earthy nose dominant palate. $35 and vanilla with an 3 AWARDED with blackcurrant notes CABERNET excellent integration of and similar characters SAUVIGNON jammy fruit flavours, One excellent merlot echoed on the palate. Blue Pyrenees oak and mouth coating blend and a couple $20 16 TASTED Estate Richardson tannins. $30 of juicy dark fruited Pyrenees Cabernet examples. Yilgarnia Denmark 8 AWARDED Sauvignon Schwarz Wine Merlot 2018 HHH 2018 HHH Company Meta Inky, almost black, “Some interesting Well integrated and Barossa Valley wine with intense styles from the juicy and flavoursome wine with Shiraz peppery blackcurrant sweet to the traditional minty red fruit, cedary oak 2019 HHHH1/2 aromas and oak bigger powerful wines,” and peppery notes. $60 “Great attention to dominated palate. $24 commented one judge. detail here,” noted “However, there were Brangayne Of one judge. Lovely CABERNET many that lacked Orange Orange NSW varietal characters of BLENDS varietal character with Cabernet Sauvignon blueberries, black olives, wines looking more like 2017 HHH spices and Sarsaparilla 8 TASTED shiraz!” A medium bodied with good tannin profile 2 AWARDED ruby red wine with a and plenty of acid. $38 Apeiron Wines complexity of plums, Differences of opinion Coonawarra beetroot and some Arakoon Wines amongst the judges Cabernet Sauvignon earthiness. $38 Big, Fat & Gutsy in this group. There 2019 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz was discussion about “Intensely cabernet,” Patrick of 2019 HHHH wines being too said one judge. Has Coonawarra Estate Minty herbaceous green or having too a lovely spicy herbal Coonawarra aromas with meaty much brettanomyces bouquet and powerful Cabernet Sauvignon touches and good core (earthy, rustic barnyard) leafy blackcurrant palate 2016 HHH of varietal fruit overlaid characters which some with lovely oak, soft Delightful umami with oak and good accepted, but others tannins and good acid savouriness to the nose tannin structure. $22 didn’t, which polarized line. $25 with a big complex fruit the overall results. But a cake of a palate. $29 Mount Avoca Estate couple made the cut! Patrick of Organic Old Vine Colloca The Chateau Coonawarra Home Pyrenees Shiraz Barossa Merlot Block Coonawarra 2019 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Nose is a fragrant Cabernet Franc Petit 2015 HHHH berry compote with Verdot 2018 HHHH An earthy chocolaty a beautifully poised A complexity of oak driven nose and palate that is brimming blackcurrants, prunes, nicely ageing chocolaty/ over with cherry/berry hints of black olives and fruit cake of a palate flavours. $37.50 a hint of menthol with with tertiary characters assertive but pleasant developing. $45 tannins. $38 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 105

NEW RELEASES Zonte's Footstep Capital Wines 'The Zonte's Vale Organics Nature's Crux Frontbencher' Footstep Age Of McLaren Vale Shiraz Fleurieu Shiraz Canberra District Enlightenment 2018 HHH 2020 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2019 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Attractive toasty fruit nose Very ripe plum and Dark berry aromas 2018 HHHH with a generous spicy cherry bouquet and a integrated with vanilla oak Deep purple wine palate, herbal edges and tannic palate filled with and has long lingering fruit smelling of black good acid. $25 good primary fruit and flavours. $27 cherries and black olives plenty of acid. $35 with a leathery element. Château Tanunda Schwarz Wine Zonte's Footstep Very oaky palate but has Terroirs of the Company The Chocolate Factory the fruit to carry it. $70 Barossa Ebenezer Grower Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz Alluca Single District Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019 HHH Vineyard McLaren Shiraz 2018 HHH 2019 HHH1/2 Very attractive spicy Vale Blewitt Springs Estery mocha nose and Perfumed black blackberry bouquet and Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 very oaky palate with fruit fragrances and an abundance of oak Tarry, earthy and spicy some dark cherry fruit and interesting meaty/fruity tannins on the warm on the nose with floral a high level of acid. $60 characters on the palate palate. $27.50 notes. Spicy and meaty with mocha notes. $30 throughout the length of Château Tanunda Windowrie The Mill Singlefile Single the palate. $36 Terroirs of the Central Ranges Vineyard Clément Arakoon Wines Barossa Eden Valley Shiraz 2020 HHH V Frankland River Big, Fat & Gutsy Barossa Shiraz A light bodied style Shiraz Grenache McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 HHH with lovely aromatic mix Mataro 2019 HHH 2018 HHH Aromas of spicy plum of blackcurrants, dark Very savoury style with Elegant blackcurrant and cigar box oak with plums and chocolate. interesting secondary bouquet and good tannin plenty of red currant/oak $20 and tertiary characters structure on the complex flavours. $60 Lovalley Ring SA developing. $35 earthy palate. $22 Shiraz 2019 HHH Buller Wines The Saint Nic by Geoff Simple briary fruit nose SHIRAZ Nook Heathcote Merrill McLaren Vale and pleasant plumy 2018 & OLDER Shiraz 2018 HHH Shiraz Cabernet palate with charry oak A full-bodied oak driven 2017 HHH and smooth tannins. 24 TASTED wine but there is also Chocolaty blackcurrant $12.99 11 AWARDED plenty of super ripe fruit bouquet with a green Buller Wines RLB too. $23 edge and a lightweight Victoria Shiraz “Overall, generally a Yilgarnia Denmark angular palate. $25 2019 HHH disappointing group,” Shiraz 2018 HHH A meaty nose with said the judges. “For A strong oak influence The Ned Marlborough rhubarb-like notes and a great vintage we on both the nose Pinot Gris 2020 obvious sweetness on expected more and did and palate with floral Subtle aromas of lemons and the red-fruited palate. not need to be propped blackcurrant fruit limes with a refreshing citrus $17 up with oak,” said one underneath. $24 driven palate. $18.99 Mount Trio Great judge. “Also, a number Apeiron Wines Southern Syrah here had lost vibrancy McLaren Vale Shiraz Marisco Vineyards 2019 HHH and were already 2018 HHH Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Intensely peppery showing premature Earthy complexity to Email: [email protected] bouquet with a minty ageing,” said another. the dark fruit nose Web: www.marisco.co.nz peppery palate. Typical However, those that with more chocolaty cool climate style. $20 made the cut were complexity on the STAR RATINGS  Cassegrain White balanced, had the palate. $25 Label Central required vibrancy and Run Free by Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Ranges Shiraz good use of good fruit Singlefile Western excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2019 HHH and oak. Australia Shiraz All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Spicy plum fragrances 2018 HHH professionals and are compared in peer not overly complex with Fruity aromas with an classes by three judges. a lighter style tannic earthy thread and good CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, strawberry palate. $25.95 weight and texture a major mail-order business. to the ripe raspberry CD Cellar door price. palate. $25 CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 112-113. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 106 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Preece King Valley Grandeur Wellington Mitchelton The Bend Oakover Wines Western Pinot Grigio 2020 Artisan Adelaide Pinot King Valley Sauvignon Australia Rose 2020 Subtle estery nose and a clean, Gris 2020 Blanc 2019 Nose is a freshness of rose refined and refreshing palate Nose in the tropical spectrum Interesting aromas – quite petals and spices with fleshy with a lingering zesty end. $20 and a long warming palate spicy and perfumed with fruit on the mid-palate and with a sweet finish. $20 generous preserved lemon slight spritzig note. $16 flavours. $15 Mitchelton Wines - Nagambie Wine Grandeur Wellington Oakover Wines Corporation Phone: 08 8383 0866 Mitchelton Wines - Nagambie Wine Phone: 08 9374 8000 Phone: 03 5736 2222 Email: [email protected] Corporation Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.grandeurwellington.com.au Phone: 03 5736 2222 Web: www.oakoverwines.com.au Web: www.mitchelton.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.mitchelton.com.au BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND $U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 107

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Leefield Station Watkins Core Langhorne Watkins Alternatives Taylors Hotelier Marlborough Pinot Noir Creek Grenache Directed Intensity Wrattonbully Shiraz 2019 Rosé 2019 Rosé 2020 Langhorne Creek A rich and opulent wine. Confectionery green Gorgeous sherbet/fairy floss- G.S.M. 2019 “Everything you look for in a berry bouquet with chalky like bouquet and an elegant and The nose is a delightful shiraz,” said one judge. Loads tannins on the palate, some creamy palate with some great compote of spicy earthy berry of raspberry and plum fruit savoury development and acidity and a long finish. $20 fruit and has delicious fruit characters. Good complexity “Perfect phenolics!” $19.99 flavours laced with vanilla and soft tannins. $20 Watkins Family Wine oak. $20 Marisco Vineyards Phone: 0415 571 574 Taylors Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Email: [email protected] Watkins Family Wine Phone: 08 8849 1115 Email: [email protected] Web: www.watkins.wine Phone: 0415 571 574 Email: [email protected] Web: www.marisco.co.nz Email: [email protected] Web: www.taylorswines.com.au Web: www.watkins.wine the wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 170 | December 2020 Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care is Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but Managing Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E-mail: [email protected] Graphic Designer WINESTATE is published six times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Marketing & Sales 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2020 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] Debra Silver E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.au Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any E-mail: [email protected] 108 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR: AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save! Australia 6 issues (1yr) $A69 (includes $6.27 GST) ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 12 issues (2yrs) $A128 (includes $11.64 GST) Price include GST, postage and handling. New Zealand SUBSCRIBE TO Price includes Airmail. OUR COMPLETE Please mark X one option: PACKAGE 6 issues (1 year) $A79 12 issues (2 years) $A150 This includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Asia, Pacific Winestate’s web site and reviews. Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: Available only through online order, 6 issues (1 year) $A120 www.winestate.com.au Elsewhere Price includes Airmail. Please mark X: 6 issues (1 year) $A130 Mr / Mrs / Miss State Country SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 5 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually Address Phone ( ) Suburb Post Code AUSTRALIA & NEW ZZEEAALLAANNDDWWIINNEE BBUUYYIINNGG GGUUIIDDEE E-mail MAINFREIGHT Your subscription will start from the next issue. World's greatest shiraz ChalleNge X seMilloN riVer regioNs Yarra YalleY & soUtherN ViCtoria otago, Nz WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ I enclose my cheque for $ OV E R 5 0 0 TA S T E D Featuring payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: Bird in Hand Mastercard Visa Penfolds Grange Paul Jaboulet Henschke Hill of Grace Torbreck The Laird Gralyn Estate JAPAN’S Emerging Wine Culture PINOT CENTRAL Otago’s claim to fame Name on card: PRINT POST APPROVEd 100003663 September/October 2015 spiritLifwe inothreld Vol 38 Issue 5 The evolution of Cognac $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac Semillon & Blends US $17.99 GBP £10.95 Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria River Regions Otago (NZ) EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 Signature Expires / plus Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 271_CoverFRONT216x297.indd 1 23/07/2015 3:06:55 PM GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Why not give a Recipient’s Name gift subscription? Address Call us today on +61 8 8357 9277 or visit Suburb State Country www.winestate.com.au Post Code Phone ( ) Please send a gift card to Me Recipient Also fill in your details in the section above. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 109

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH. Nestled between the continental wines with EU-protected designation warmth and cool northern currents, Austrian wines flourish in the heart of of origin.You can always spot them by Europe. These ideal climatic conditions foster the growth of noble and elegant the red-white-red capsule tops and the official quality wine check number on the label. austrianwine.com 110 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

ADELAIDE on the scene KORKED LOUNGE BAR ‘Running on cool climate Syrah’ 3 DIVETT STREET, PORT ADELAIDE SA 2396 State Highway 50 ~ RD5 ~ Hastings 4175 Ph: 0413 044 056 Hawke’s Bay ~ New Zealand. Elegant Sensuous Intimate Phone: 06 879 7778 ~ Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] www.trinityhill.com Phone: +64 3 4485059 or +64 274279108 Cellar Door Wine Tasting in the heart of the Gimblett Gravels, Address: 36 Hillview road, Alexandra, New Zealand everyone welcome. Open 7 days Website: www.judgerock.co.nz Sidewood Restaurant & Cellar Door Phone: +61 8 8388 1157 Email: [email protected] Web: www.sidewood.com.au Set amongst a stunning mix of eucalyptus, landscaped gardens and lawns, the Sidewood Restaurant & Cellar Door is only a 25 minute drive from Adelaide’s CBD. Sidewood’s wines can be enjoyed with wood-fired pizza in the gardens, sampled with bar snacks in the tasting room or paired with the al la carte restaurant menu. Restaurant & Cellar Door: Open 6 days. Closed Tuesdays. • Street address: 6 River Road, Hahndorf SA 5245 Winesave INNER CITY WINEMAKERS Phone: 03 9028 2763 Email: [email protected] Phone: (02) 4962 3545 Website: www.winesave.com Mobile: 0413 655 441 Address: 28 Church Street, Premium wine preservation Wickham, NSW 2293 and accessories. www.innercitywinemakers.com.au Let us take you away from the everyday to enjoy your private touring experience in the Yarra Valley, with Chauffeurdrive Yarra Valley, Melbourne. Experience fine wine, champagne, cheese, chocolate, food and wine dining experiences, matched cheese and wine, smoked cheese, olives, gourmet food hampers, seasonal local produce only found in the Yarra Valley, tastings all for that special someone or group tasting experience with Chauffeurdrive Yarra Valley, Melbourne. Private Wine Tour Experiences Yarra Valley www.chauffeurdrive.com.au Ph: 1300 481 188 Smith & Sheth Oenothèque The Smith & Sheth Oenothèque has something for all ~ Cellar Door, Wine Lounge, Wine Studio wine lovers. Come in for a tasting of our exceptional CRU wines or peruse our Wine Lounge menu in the evenings www.smithandsheth.com ~ [email protected] offering wines from around New Zealand and the world. #2 The Courtyard, Village Exchange, Check out our Heretaunga Wine Studio for an exclusive 4 Te Aute Road, Havelock North tasting experience! For Tastings and Sales, visit our cellar door at The Winning Post Motor Inn, 101 Church Street, Mudgee. ph: 0417 451 102 email: [email protected] www.charnwoodestate.com.au We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 111

contact details BEST BUYS Majella Wines Tamburlaine Organic Wines RIESLING Phone: 08 8736 3055 Phone: 02 4998 4200 Grandeur Wellington Email: admin@majellawines. Email: marketing@tamburlaine. Colmar Estate Phone: 08 8383 0866 com.au com.au Phone: 0419 977 270 Email: [email protected] Web: www.majellawines.com.au Web: www.tamburlaine.com.au Email: contact@colmarestate. Web: www.grandeurwellington. com.au com.au Wild Game Wine PINOT NOIR Web: www.colmarestate.com.au Phone: 0419 261 075 Marisco Vineyards Email: mary@wildgamewine. Brown Brothers (The Brown Corryton Burge (Burge Family Phone: +64 9 522 9684 com.au Family Wine Group) Wine Estates) Email: [email protected] Web: wildgamewine.com.au Phone: 03 5720 5500 Phone: +61 8 8563 7575 Web: www.marisco.co.nz Email: CRBrown@brownfwg. Email: [email protected] NEW RELEASES com.au Web: www.corrytonburge.com Mitchelton Wines - Nagambie Web: www.brownbrothers.com.au Wine Corporation Colloca Estate Winery Dinny Goonan Family Estate Phone: 03 5736 2222 Phone: 0405 253 031 Coal Pit Vineyard NZ Phone: 0438 408 420 Email: mitchelton@mitchelton. Email: alex@greenockcreekwines. Phone: +64 27 693 6111 Email: [email protected] com.au com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.dinnygoonan.com.au Web: www.mitchelton.com.au Web: www.colloca.com Web: www.coalpitwine.com Enthusiast Wines Oakover Wines Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Marisco Vineyards Phone: 0427 131 913 Phone: 08 9374 8000 Phone: 0409 108 166 Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.enthusiastwines.com Web: www.oakovergrounds.com. Web: www.singlefilewines.com Web: www.marisco.co.nz au/wines Geoff Merrill Wines Susuro Wines Mike Press Wines Phone: 08 8381 6877 Taylors Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 0400 616 616 Phone: 0409 092 485 Email: info@geoffmerrillwines. Phone: 08 8849 1115 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.susuro.com.au Web: www.mikepresswines. Web: www.geoffmerrillwines. Web: www.taylorswines.com.au com.au com.au Watkins Family Wine Watkins Family Wine Phone: 0415 571 574 Plantagenet Wines Kimbarra Wines Phone: 0415 571 574 Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 9851 3131 Phone: 03 5352 2238 Email: [email protected] Email: sales@plantagenetwines. Email: [email protected] NZ RECENT RELEASES com Web: www.kimbarrawines.com.au HAWKES BAY Web: www.plantagenetwines.com The Landing Wines Ltd NZ Paisley Wines Bish Wines NZ Phone: +64 21 439 200 Stumpy Gully Vineyard Phone: 0439 982 839 Phone: +64 (0) 21 584 515 Email: peter.jones@ Phone: 03 5978 8429 Email: kirsten@paisleywines. Email: [email protected] thelandingnz.com Email: [email protected] com.au Web: www.tonybishwines.co.nz Web: www.thelandingvineyard. Web: www.stumpygully.com.au Web: www.paisleywines.com.au com Black Barn Vineyards NZ Yarra Yering Plantagenet Wines Phone: +64 6 877 7985 PINOT GRIS & PINOT Phone: 03 5964 9267 Phone: 08 9851 3131 Email: [email protected] GRIGIO Email: [email protected] Email: sales@plantagenetwines. Web: www.blackbarn.com Web: www.yarrayering.com com Grandeur Wellington Web: www.plantagenetwines.com Radburnd Cellars NZ Phone: 08 8383 0866 Yealands Estate Wines Ltd NZ Phone: +64 6 651 1815 Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 575 7618 ROSÉ Email: [email protected] Web: www.grandeurwellington. Email: [email protected] Web: www.radburndcellars.co.nz com.au Web: www.yealands.co.nz Calneggia Family Vineyards Phone: 08 9368 4555 Squawking Magpie NZ Lawson's Dry Hills NZ Yes Said The Seal Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 6 878 1800 Phone: +64 3 578 7674 Phone: 0408 891 731 Web: www.cfvwine.com.au Email: info@squawkingmagpie. Email: nigel@lawsonsdryhills. Email: darren@leuraparkestate. co.nz co.nz com.au Ellis Wines Web: www.sqawkingmagpie.co.nz Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz Web: www.yessaidtheseal.com.au Web: www.elliswines.com.au LIMESTONE COAST Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Zarephath Wines Elysian Springs Phone: 0409 108 166 Phone: 08 9853 1152 Phone: 08 8568 1900 CW Wines Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: 08 8736 5160 Web: www.singlefilewines.com Web: www.zarephathwines.com Web: www.elysiansprings.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.cwwines.com.au Stefani Estate Hahndorf Hill Winery Phone: 03 9570 8750 Phone: 08 8388 7512 Email: [email protected] Email: cellardoor@ Web: www.stefaniestatewines. hahndorfhillwinery.com.au com.au Web: www.hahndorfhillwinery. com.au 112 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

contact details Haselgrove Wines Pty Ltd Sorby Adams Wines Hollydene Estate Wines Peccavi Wines Phone: 08 8323 8706 Phone: 08 8564 2993 Phone: 02 6576 4110 Phone: 0409 544 630 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: admin@hollydeneestate. Email: [email protected] Web: www.haselgrove.com.au Web: www.sorbyadamswines.com com Web: www.peccavi-wines.com Web: www.hollydeneestate.com Marisco Vineyards Watkins Family Wine Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Phone: 0415 571 574 Lawson's Dry Hills NZ Phone: 0409 108 166 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 578 7674 Email: [email protected] Web: www.marisco.co.nz Email: [email protected] Web: www.singlefilewines.com Zonte's Footstep Pty Ltd Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz Ricca Terra Vintners PTY LTD Phone: 08 7286 3088 Yilgarnia Wines & Due South Phone: 0429 788 717 Email: [email protected] Marisco Vineyards Wines Email: ashley@riccaterrafarms. Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au Phone: +64 9 522 9684 Phone: 08 9845 3031 com.au Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.riccaterravintners. SAUVIGNON BLANC & Web: www.marisco.co.nz Web: www.yilgarnia.com.au com.au BLENDS Mount Riley Wines Ltd NZ SEMILLON & BLENDS Rob Dolan Wines Flowstone Phone: +64 3 577 9900 Phone: 03 9876 5885 Phone: 0487 010 275 Email: [email protected] Briar Ridge Vineyard Email: enquiries@robdolanwines. Email: flowstone@ Web: www.mountriley.co.nz Phone: 02 4990 3670 com.au flowstonewines.com Email: alexandriac@briarridge. Web: www.robdolanwines.com.au Web: www.flowstonewines.com Otuwhero Wines (NZ) com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.briarridge.com.au Semprevino Web: www.otuwine.com Phone: 0417 142 110 Email: russellschroder@ semprevino.com.au Web: www.semprevino.com.au www.winestate.com.au Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. Connect on social with Winestate www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine twitter.com/winestateed www.instagram.com/winestate/ December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 113

aftertaste ELISABETH KING SUMMER WINE - AN ENDURING REFRAIN THERE'S a reason today's singers do cocktail. A friend recently served a Valle preferably lower in alcohol, are the covers of decades-old songs. Their Formosa Classic Rosé Cava, which preferred choices, of course, and never be message and appeal is enduring and won over the Francophiles present and afraid to get the temperature of a red back crosses multiple generations. Take for natural wine lovers Perelada Stars down with a 10 minute stint in the fridge. Summer Wine, a hit for Nancy Sinatra and Organic Cava fits the bill. Lee Hazlewood in the 1960s. Artists as The discount supermarket, Aldi, has diverse as The Corrs and Bono and Lana I became a fan of cremant sparklers in played a major part in the rosé boom and Del Rey have warbled their own versions. Champagne. We visited one of the storied its South Point Estate at $4.99 is one of the houses of the region and the winemakers biggest volume sellers in the category in In July, Alex Kapronos, ex- rock band were fiddling around with the style for their the country. Twenty-somethings are also Franz Ferdinand, and French chanteuse, own enjoyment. Like its illustrious cousin, keen on the retailer's Sandara Sparkling Clara Luciani, released a beguiling reprise cremant wines get their sparkle from the Sangria at $7.49. While budgeteers of all in English and French. Watch any rendition Methode Traditionelle process, but most ages have long been fans of Monsigny on YouTube and it' s hard not to feel inspired are kept on lees for a much shorter period. Champagne Brut NV at $22.99. A French or wax nostalgic during the opening lines They are made in multiple areas of France friend was throwing a birthday party a – ‘Strawberries, cherries and an angel's with many types of grapes, such as the few years ago and confided that she felt kiss in Spring; My summer wine is really Loire, Alsace, the Rhone Valley, Bordeaux obliged to serve champagne but the price made from all these things’. and more. A top choice for summer is Cave would be exorbitant. I recommended de Lugny Cremant Blanc de Blancs, which Monsigny and after the event she said A quick search on the Internet throws will set you back about $20. – ‘Was I the last person in Australia to up thousands of articles offering advice discover this?’ Frankly, yes. on the best wines to choose when the In spite of opinions to the contrary, pet weather warms up. Retailers such as BWS nats are still a thing with younger drinkers, Looks-good-in-the-glass wine cocktails and Vintage Cellars list their seasonal as much for their egalitarian crown caps will also get your entertaining occasions recommendations and august publications as their range of flavours from tart to juicy. wide publicity on social media and even including Decanter and Forbes return to Prosecco fever remains unabated with Zoom. I am not talking about trout pout the topic year-after-year. all ages and really comes into its own for influencers, but among people of all ages. every conceivable occasion from brunches The Aperol Spritz has been Instagrammed Sparkling wines are a preferred go-to through picnics and early evening drinks. to the ‘nth degree in just about every for many during the Aussie summer, country in the world. But there's plenty which coincides with the festive and party White wines are a default choice for of scope for the creative who want family seasons in our neck of the woods. I recently summer, teaming well with the season's and friend’s interstate or overseas to \"take read an article with the headline - Sparkling lighter menus using fish, fruits, vegetables part\" in the season's festivities. Wines You Can Actually Afford to Get Drunk and stepping up to the plate at BBQs and On. It was an attention-grabber, of course, al fresco lunches and dinners. Sauvignon A recipe I have been serving since not a rallying cry for binge drinkers, but the blanc, pinot grigio (pinot gris) and lighter I discovered it on the website of US list of bubblies was spot on for those keen chardonnays have a stranglehold on magazine, Bon Appetit, three years ago is to keep expenditure down. most people's tastes. But for a change or Melon and Lemon Verbena with Prosecco. talking point, marsanne, riesling, chenin Cava, the Spanish sparkler, has seriously blanc and verdelho are great options for Place 3/4 cup of sugar, 1/4 cup of lemon upped its cred in the past decade. sipping or pairing. verbena leaves and 375ml of water in a pan Traditionally, a blend of macabeo, xarello and simmer until the sugar is dissolved - and parellada grapes, many producers use There's no need to back away from red about 10 minutes. Strain and cool - this the Methode Traditionelle of Champagne wines. Wine writer Campbell Mattinson can be done a day ahead. Cut a small, ripe but at a much more affordable price. had a mini-rant when he heard his local rockmelon in half and remove seeds. Puree radio station had run a segment steering in a blender or food processor and stir into That doesn't mean cheap, though. I listeners away from reds during summer. the sugar syrup. Chill for two hours. Fill eight recently enjoyed a Segura Viudas Brut Rightly, he advised against serving red large champagne flutes one third full with Reserva Heredad priced at $44.99. But wines too warm or - worse - too hot if they fruit mixture and top up with prosecco or perennial favourites such as Codorniu are left out in the sun. the sparkling wine of your choice. Picture Clasico 1872 are priced at a tenner. Great perfect and as Clara Luciani sings in the 2020 with seafood and oysters, cava makes But lighter reds such as pinot noir, update of Summer Wine - Oh, vin d'ete. a superb DIY sangria or \"champagne\" tempranillo, merlot and grenache, next issue: So this time last year we were raising a glass to our Annual (Jan/Feb) Wine of the Year Awards Edition and to an upcoming \"wonderful\" 2020! I don't think anyone could have envisioned the year to come! This issue covers all the highlights of the four, four-and-a-half and five stars reviews from 2020 and also the outstanding Wine of the Year Awards winners. So let's give 2020 the official boot and welcome in a (fingers-crossed) much better 2021! 114 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

MEMBER EVENTS COVID - 19 ALERT MAY 2020 *Normally we would have a series of trade and consumer Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XV tastings scheduled across Australia at major function venues National Wine Centre, Adelaide but with the current social distancing and event rules in place Event cancelled due to COVID-19. this is clearly impossible. JUNE 2020 It seems pointless to flag future possibilities at this stage when we don’t know when things will return to normal or Top Wine China rules will be relaxed. We regret not being able to give you China National Convention Center, Beijing more information, particularly to those sponsors, our valued 3-5 June 2020 members and supporters who love attending our events. Details at: www.topwinechina.com Event cancelled due to COVID-19. Stay safe and healthy and as things evolve we will keep you updated. Event cancellations will be posted on our events JULY 2020 section of our website. Emerging & Alternative Varietals Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Perth Event cancelled due to COVID-19. SEPTEMBER 2020 Winestate Wine of the Year 2020 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Event cancelled due to COVID-19 restrictions. NOVEMBER 2020 Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (Australia) Adelaide Convention Centre Date to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only and VIP Guests) Event cancelled due to COVID-19 restrictions. Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Lunch (New Zealand) Date and venue to be advised By Invitation only (Trade Only & VIP Guests) Event cancelled due to COVID-19 restrictions. APRIL 2021 Wine & Gourmet Japan 21-23 April, 2021 Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan Details at: www.wineandgourmetjapan.com JOIN US TODAY! For further enquiries email to: By becoming a Winestate Member [email protected] you will receive complimentary or phone 08 83579277 tickets to our events!

Wine shippers are a discriminating bunch. Wine shippers (like wine sippers) are picky. When it comes to service, what they’re looking for is smoothness, balance and year-after-year consistency. (And a bit of age helps, because with wine, shipping it is also like making it. Experience is everything.) All of which is what Hamburg Süd brings to the table. What we offer is the capacity to leave the customer wanting more – by delivering the product in the same lovingly produced form it was bottled in. No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com