Winestate Magazine December 2020

travelbriefs REVAMP FOR ROBE’S TRADITION FOR TODAY The cellar door is open Monday-Friday CALEDONIAN INN 9am-5pm and weekends 11am-4pm. The THERE is a new look to the Redman Redman family also have somewhere to ROBE is about four hour’s drive from cellar door, but pride of place goes to a stay on your next trip to Coonawarra. Mal Adelaide and is a favourite beach family photo taken 60 years ago, when and Deb Redman have spent the past destination all year round – as well as the business began. year restoring Coonawarra Cottages, a good base from which to explore the which are a short walk to the cellar door Limestone Coast wineries. Visitors enjoy “The cellar door brings the past into and right opposite the fine food of Drink several upmarket shops, dine in one of the present, where many of the family Ottelia + Drink Fodder. For details see the region’s many restaurants serving traditions remain when we welcome our www.redman.com.au/ up fresh seafood, or just grab some fish guests,” says winemaker Dan Redman. and chips. “Much remains the same despite operating for over 60 years.” There are several hotels and guesthouses from which to choose, including the Caledonian Inn, which dates back to 1858. It has live music in summer. The hotel offers pub-style accommodation and was given a refurb during the Covid-19 outbreak, reopening on August 31. You can play darts at the hotel, while the area is popular for golfing and snorkelling. See https:// caledonianinnrobe.com.au/ Opposite page top left & middle: Balnaves cellar door and Pete Bissell. Opposite page top right: Demetrio Zema of Zema Estate. Opposite page bottom: Cafe in the vines, Hollick. Top left & middle: Caledonian Inn exterior, Robe. Middle right & bottom right: The Redman family making wine and in the vineyard. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 51

97 TASTED 86 AWARDED LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS The Limestone Coast involving Coonawarra is one of our great Norfolk Rise Mount cool climate regions producing some of the finest cabernets and Benson Pinot Grigio shiraz combining both \"power and restraint.\" But don't disregard 2019 HHH the whites from the region with both riesling and chardonnay Some musky fruit performing well. elements on the nose and crunchy lemon flavours. $19 RIESLING 7 TASTED 7 AWARDED SPARKLING SAUVIGNON CW Wines The A shame that the region Majella Coonawarra BLANC Inventor Limestone is not recognized for the Riesling 4 TASTED Coast Sauvignon high-quality riesling that 2019 HHHH1/2 3 AWARDED 5 TASTED Blanc 2020 HHH1/2 comes from here and A savoury bouquet with 4 AWARDED Distinct pungent how well it ages. “Do a quartz-like mineral Three quality examples asparagus aromas and a yourself a favour and character. Lovely palate of approachable Small solid group of cool flavoursome palate with get some!” advised one – ripe and flavoursome sparklings showing climate, fresh and lively a savoury element and judge. with Germanic-like some complexity. examples. crisp acid. $20 complexity developing. Patrick of $17 Syn Coonawarra Raidis Estate 'The Rymill The Yearling Coonawarra Leconfield Old Vines Sparkling Rosé Kelpie' Coonawarra Coonawarra Aged Riesling Coonawarra Riesling NV HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Coonawarra Riesling 2019 HHHH1/2 A very refreshing style 2020 HHHH1/2 2020 HHH 2014 HHHHH A complex savoury style with a fine bead and Very punchy varietal Fresh, crisp and at A bright golden wine of riesling with slight a pretty strawberry with lovely passionfruit the greener end of with a lovely, aged lime kero-like development bouquet with a hint of pungency to the nose the spectrum. Nice and lemon butter nose. showing on the nose Turkish Delight. The and good intensity of steely acid and crunchy Beautifully mature and and palate, some floral palate is creamy and gooseberry-like flavours phenolics. $15 complex palate but is touches and crisp fruity with toasty notes with a great line of acid still showing a bright acidity. $26 and crisp acid. $20 to balance. $22 PINOT GRIS/ youthful citrus drive. $39 Raidis Estate 'The GRIGIO Kid' Coonawarra Syn Cuvée Blanc Hoggies Estate Hoggies Estate Riesling 2020 HHHH Coonawarra Coonawarra 2 TASTED Coonawarra Riesling An elegant riesling Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2 AWARDED 2019 HHHH1/2 with a pretty floral Chardonnay Pinot 2020 HHH1/2 Pretty green hues, fragrance and hints of Noir NV HHHH Vibrant grassy bouquet Two contrasting styles – honeyed lime and lemon green apples. Lovely Fresh, vibrant and with subtle tropical notes the rich and the elegant, nose and a delicate crisp citrus/lemon juice youthful with attractive and delicate tropical yet both are good food palate with juicy lime flavours. $22 tropical complexity. flavours. “A lovely wines. driven flavours with a Creamy in the mouth example.” $14.99 floral edge and tight with good sugar/acid acidity. $14.99 balance. $18.50 Raidis Estate 'Cheeky Goat' Syn Rouge Coonawarra Pinot Coonawarra Gris 2020 HHH Sparkling Shiraz An interesting mix NV HHH of aromas with a A rich, bold, fruit driven generous white peach- “celebratory” style with like palate. $26 hints of blackberries and chocolate. $18.50 52 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

regional tasting Koonara ROSÉ Leconfield Pepper Tree 8R Pepper Tree Classics A Song For Alice Coonawarra Wrattonbully Merlot Limited Release Coonawarra Riesling 4 TASTED Cabernet Franc 2018 HHHH Wrattonbully 2020 HHH1/2 3 AWARDED 2019 HHHH1/2 Blackberry bouquet Cabernet Sauvignon A well-made wine with “Lovely for such a with a eucalypt edge Merlot Petit Verdot subtle citrus aromas but Above average rosé young wine,” noted and refreshing brambly 2017 HHH1/2 more flavours than the wines here. “Bring on one judge. Good leafy fruit flavours. Just Very well-made wine nose indicates. “Very Summer!” declared one plum bouquet with just needs a little more time from a difficult vintage. more-ish!” $25 judge. a touch of oak. Silky to settle. $45 Minty cool climate cassis smooth in the mouth nose and super fresh Brand's Laira Koonara Emily May with juicy red and blue CABERNET black fruit palate. $35 Old Station Mount Gambier fruit flavours. $30 BLENDS Coonawarra Riesling Pinot Noir Rosé Hollick Estates 2019 HHH1/2 2020 HHHH MERLOT 6 TASTED Tannery Block Slight toastiness to the Sweet and toasty on 6 AWARDED Coonawarra citrus nose and slightly the nose with some 3 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon sweeter palate showing florals and interesting 3 AWARDED Excellent flight of Merlot 2019 HHH appealing floral citrus herbal-like fruit “Great to see merlot cabernet blends Lovely cassis fruit flavours. $18 complexity on the nice looking like this from the showing the advantage aromas sit nicely dry palate. $20 South East,” said one of both the blend and with the oak and CHARDONNAY judge. the cool climate region. good persistence of Majella Coonawarra blackberry flavours. $22 4 TASTED Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 Majella Coonawarra The Musician by 3 AWARDED Smells of strawberries Merlot 2017 HHHHH Majella Coonawarra Leconfield and squeezed limes! A really lovely, elegant, Cabernet Shiraz Coonawarra Again, don’t disregard Lovely fresh and zesty medium weight merlot 2018 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Merlot the whites from this palate with savoury with a seductive minty A bright fresh and well- 2018 HHH region. Some worthy driven flavours. $17 blackberry bouquet made blend with lovely Vibrant spicy blackberry chardonnays here. and gorgeous blue fruit crimson hues and nice varietal fruit here that Leconfield palate with some cool minty lift to the black is perfectly balanced by Brand's Laira La Sevillana climate greenness. $30 fruit nose. The palate the oak. $26 Blockers Coonawarra Rosé Leconfield is, “Vibrant, alive and Coonawarra 2020 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Merlot sings with juicy fruit CABERNET Chardonnay Candied musky plum- 2019 HHHH1/2 intensity!” $19 SAUVIGNON 2019 HHHHH like bouquet with A nose of cherries and Lovely peach-like very pleasant red fruit fine oak with a lovely Lindeman's Trio 29 TASTED aromatics with some flavours laced with the richness and intensity Pyrus Coonawarra 27 AWARDED complexity from the crisp acidity. $26 of fruit flavours with Cabernet Sauvignon oak. A delightful palate a slight meatiness Merlot Malbec An amazing result of that is fresh, tropical and OTHER REDS and somewhat grippy 2018 HHHH1/2 consistent highest complex with a creamy & BLENDS tannins – for now. $26 Bold sweet plum quality wines showing mouthfeel and good acid fragrances – rich and yet again that the region balance. $25 4 TASTED lifted. Soft in the mouth is the yardstick for 2 AWARDED with great varietal fruit, cabernet sauvignon in Hoggies Estate well integrated oak and Australia! The quality Coonawarra A couple of excellent smooth ripe tannins. stands out across a Chardonnay examples with varietal “Young and very more- number of vintages and 2018 HHHH definition and vibrancy. ish!” $69.99 the judges did not find Very cool climate any bad wines in the line style of chardonnay – Wangolina A Series The Malleea by up. “These show palate excellent example with Limestone Coast Majella Coonawarra weight and texture with delicacy and persistence Tempranillo Cabernet Shiraz good balance between of pretty floral/citrus 2019 HHHH1/2 2015 HHHH1/2 savoury and sweetness aromas and flavours. “Everything a Nicely aged wine with and great varietal $14.99 tempranillo should developed blue fruit character,” said one be!” said one judge. aromas showing a judge. Jip Jip Rocks Spicy dark berry fruit meaty element and Padthaway fragrances with a dash peppery lift and a lovely Chardonnay of pepper and a full creamy, oak driven, 2020 HHH flavoursome rich fruit palate brimming over Fruit driven style with palate. Needs a little with fruit flavours. $80 pretty floral notes, some more time. $25 good tannins and a high level of acid. $23 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 53

LIMESTONE COAST & SURROUNDS Brand's Laira 1968 Lindeman's Trio St Vines Coonawarra George Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2018 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Lovely depth of bright 2018 HHHH1/2 crimson hues with A youthful, deep red, cassis fruit, spices and somewhat tannic wine nice oak aromas on the with great intensity of nose. Very attractive rich sweet blue fruits, palate with soft elegant persistent tannins and fruit, fine tannins and some lovely chocolaty cedary oak. $40 characters. $69.99 Rymill Sandstone Majella Coonawarra Wild Game 'The CW Wines Peeping Brand's Laira Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Duke' Coonawarra Tom Coonawarra One Seven One Coonawarra 2017 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon A very stylish and 2012 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHHH elegant varietal bouquet. Leathery cedary “Timeless” blackberry 2016 HHHH1/2 A lovely classic deep The palate is still fresh development on the and cedar aromatics. A lovely lift of cedar crimson Coonawarra and only just starting nose. Palate still has The palate is pretty and and cassis on the nose cabernet with cassis to show some maturity loads of life. “So fresh, elegant and full of sweet and a tight, linear and fruit fragrances perfectly with excellent oak so sassy!” enthused one licorice and blackberry yet generous palate balanced by the cedary integration and slightly judge. Great length and fruit flavours with super with lovely depth and oak and a tight, zesty grippy tannins. $35 intensity of cassis and fine tannins. “More- seamless layers of fruit and lively blue and dark Leconfield The anise-like flavours. $22 ish!” $25 and oak. $80 fruit filled palate. $50 Sydney Reserve The Coonawarrior Brand & Sons Wangolina The Rymill Riddoch Coonawarra Coonawarra Baker's Run Originals Mount Run Block 6 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Benson Cabernet Single Vineyard 2016 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH Coonawarra Bright cherry bouquet Bright and youthful with 2018 HHHH1/2 A rich ripe fruit and Cabernet Sauvignon with lovely oak lifted cherry and berry A classic nose of cassis oak nose and an oak 2018 HHHHH complexity. Excellent fragrances and dark and violets with a toasty driven palate with some Another classic persistence of quality fruit flavours layered note developing. Soft in excellent quality fruit and Coonawarra cabernet red and blue fruit with licorice characters the mouth with bramble fine powdery tannins. that’s big, bright flavours integrated with with excellent fine fruit flavours seamlessly $34 and youthful with a mocha-like oak and a silky tannins. A lovely integrated with the oak. Pepper Tree Block super intensity and tight tannin spine. $80 example. $16.99 $26 21A Single Vineyard persistence of spicy Wrattonbully cassis fruit characters Cabernet Sauvignon and excellent tannins in 2018 HHHH support. $50 A full-bodied style with a minty blackberry nose showing a hint of development and classic blackberry cabernet flavours. $60 Brand's Laira Blockers Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 HHHH Still youthful with aromas of cherries and cassis fruit and a nicely textured palate with well integrated fruit/oak flavours. $25 JUDGES Amy Blackburn Paul Gordon Natalie Cleghorn Winemaker for Brand’s Winemaker for Leconfield Winemaker with the Laira for the past 15 wines. In the industry Yalumba Wine Co since years. Has judged at the for the past 23 years and 1998. Associate judge Limestone Coast wine has previously worked at the Barossa Wine show. Has completed at Hamilton Wine Group, Show, Stanthorpe Small the AWAC course in Lindemans, Southcorp. Winemakers and Adelaide 2018. Has also vintaged Judged at the Auckland wine show. in Napa Valley and in the wine show and has been an Hunter Valley at Mount associate at the Melbourne, Pleasant winery. Rutherglen and Canberra wine shows. 54 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

regional tasting Patrick of CW Wines SHIRAZ Jip Jip Rocks Brand & Sons Fire Coonawarra Estate Winemaker Series BLENDS Padthaway & Ice Coonawarra Coonawarra Limestone Coast Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2018 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 7 TASTED 2019 HHH1/2 Dark cherries and 2016 HHHH 2018 HHH 6 AWARDED A meaty nose with spices lift off the nose. A lighter style cabernet Developing savoury/soy hints of licorice and a The palate is juicy and with juicy red and blue sauce-like characters A strong class of big rich fruit cake of a vibrant and brimming fruits and lots of, slightly on the nose and a bold well-blended wines palate with nice savoury over with lovely, sweet grippy, tannins with a brooding palate. $18 with great drinkability tannins. $23 varietal fruit flavours. long lingering finish. $29 Briar Ridge Vineyard particularly from the “Very quaffable.” $26 Zema Estate 'Big Bully' Limited riper years of 2018 and CW Wines Quarry Coonawarra Release Wrattonbully 2019. Limited Release Taylors Hotelier Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Wrattonbully 2016 HHHH 2018 HHH Brand & Sons Night Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE Licorice-like maturity A classic cabernet in the Owls Coonawarra 2018 HHH1/2 on the nose and great herbaceous spectrum Shiraz Malbec Smells of plums and 2019 HHHH1/2 length of vibrant cassis/ with nice drying tannins. 2018 HHHH1/2 mulberries with a red A rich and opulent anise flavours on the $35 Subtle fragrances of fruit palate layered with wine. “Everything you juicy palate. Good Hollick Estates Old blackberries and good spices and pepper. Very look for in a shiraz,” drinking now. $29.99 Vines Coonawarra length of rich ripe youthful! $25 said one judge. Loads Patrick of Cabernet Sauvignon varietal fruit flavours of raspberry and plum Coonawarra Grande 2018 HHH with some spiciness and SHIRAZ fruit characters. Good Reserve Coonawarra A very classic minty cool a dash of pepper with a complexity and soft Cabernet Sauvignon climate style with some good tannic grip. $26 21 TASTED tannins. $20 2012 HHHH pleasant green stalky 19 AWARDED Nose is slightly elements. $36 Lindeman's CW Wines developed but still a little CW Wines Lustre Trio Limestone Excellent consistent Winemaker Series shy with a solid palate Collection Ridge Vineyard class of intense “coiled Limestone Coast holding up well for an Coonawarra Coonawarra Shiraz spring” mid-weight Shiraz eight-year old. Very Cabernet 2018 HHH Cabernet styles. “Coonawarra/ 2018 HHHH1/2 approachable. $125 Chocolaty blackberry 2018 HHHH1/2 Limestone Coast can A good wine, a touch Patrick of bouquet and good Aromas of blackberries produce great elegant developed with a Coonawarra Home flavour depth on the rich and oak with a hint of shiraz styles that peppery blackberry Block Limited full-bodied palate. $45 mocha. An oak driven have both power and bouquet and great Release Coonawarra Olivia Coonawarra palate but it’s good oak restraint,” agreed the length and intensity Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon and mixing with dark judges. of dark berry flavours 2010 HHHH 2016 HHH brambly fruit and fine with tannins adding From a great vintage Slightly restrained tannins. Best drinking Rymill The Yearling complexity. $18 and showing its age! chocolaty nose with nice now! $69.99 Coonawarra Shiraz Majella Coonawarra Smells of treacle and soft sweet fruit flavours 2019 HHHHH Shiraz cigar boxes with spicy and grippy tannins. Raidis Estate 'Red A delightful example of a 2017 HHHH1/2 raisined flavour intensity. $19.99 Project' Low And cool climate shiraz with Pretty blue fruit bouquet At its peak! $65 Koonara Wanderlust Slow Coonawarra peppery plum aromas with a lovely lift of Leconfield Coonawarra Shiraz Merlot and great persistence lavender. Lots of oak Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon of dense rich plum on the smooth palate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 HHH 2019 HHHH fruit flavours with silky nicely integrated with 2018 HHH1/2 Developed oaky aromas An aromatic mix of smooth tannins and a the ripe sweet berry fruit Blackberry bouquet with a nicely evolving dark fruits and Bonox good line of acid. $15 flavours. $35 with a malty note and a spicy chocolaty palate. with a light palate tight bright cassis palate $25 showing great intensity Leconfield Reserve with good tannins and Patrick of and length of varietal Coonawarra Shiraz obvious oak. $35 Coonawarra Home flavours. $26 2019 HHHHH GPL68 by Majella Block Coonawarra Crimson wine with Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Pepper Tree The purple hues and an Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHH Pebbles Limited aromatic spicy oak 2015 HHH1/2 A fragrant oak driven Release Wrattonbully bouquet with what one Lovely lifted, complex nose with long lingering Shiraz Viognier judge described as “Oh and mature aromas. blackberry and oak 2018 HHHH so pretty,” lifted red fruit Great palate bright with flavours. $45 Cool minty bouquet flavours and great length blackberry/cassis fruit and a very tight and of powdery tannins. $30 and cola notes. $130 restrained palate with the brambly fruit showing an attractive minty influence. $35 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 55

LIMESTONE COAST Morambro Creek Padthaway Shiraz 2018 HHH1/2 Maturing blackberry bouquet with meaty notes and great length of juicy raspberry and cherry flavours. $35 Follow us and keep up to Pepper Tree date with all our latest The Gravels wine info, tastings and Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Shiraz events on facebook, 2018 HHH1/2 twitter and instagram. Peppery plum nose with a dash of oak and Connect on social with flavours in the spicy Winestate licorice spectrum. Very long finish. Time to www.facebook.com/Winestate- drink! $45 Magazine CW Wines Peeping Rymill The Wild Game 'The twitter.com/winestateed Tom Coonawarra Alternates - Less is Dame' Coonawarra www.instagram.com/winestate/ Shiraz 2019 HHHH More Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 HHH Fragrant nose - hints Shiraz 2019 HHH A mature wine; earthy www.winestate.com.au of incense with a dash An elegant style with and leathery with some of nutmeg and the oak a mix of blackberries, licorice notes and drying tending to dominate the pepper and anise tannins. $22 spicy red fruit flavours. characters and earthy $25 notes. $25 SWEET Wangolina The Rymill Classic WHITES Originals Mount Release Coonawarra Benson Syrah Shiraz 2018 HHH 1 TASTED 2019 HHHH An oak driven shiraz with 1 AWARDED Very attractive strong tannins but has approachable shiraz plenty of rich dark fruit Only one delicious with sweet raspberry/ as well. $32 example here but well mulberry fruit characters, Olivia Coonawarra worth checking it out! a dash of pepper and Shiraz 2016 HHH ripe tannins. $32 A vibrant and youthful Hollick Estates Hollick Estates wine, rich with dark The Nectar Botrytis Wrattonbully Shiraz brooding fruits and Coonawarra 2018 HHHH smooth fine tannins. Riesling Savagnin Chocolaty/oak driven $19.99 2019 HHHH1/2 style with plenty of Brand's Laira Fresh and zesty pale bright ripe dark fruit. Blockers gold wine – “Where is Nice long firm tannin Coonawarra Shiraz the ice cream?!” asked structure. Needs time to 2015 HHH one judge. Poached pear- mellow. $25 A nicely matured shiraz like aromas with hints Jip Jip Rocks with a savoury edge, of honey. Luscious and Padthaway Shiraz cola notes and ripe, sweet in the mouth and 2019 HHH1/2 slightly drying, tannins. perfectly balanced by Just starting to show $25 the acid. $25 slight development with Zema Estate some good dark savoury Family Selection fruit and a nice peppery Coonawarra Shiraz element. $23 2015 HHH Norfolk Rise Mount Oak dominates the dark Benson Shiraz fruit characters and is 2018 HHH1/2 underscored by fine Rhone-like in style with tannins. Has elegance. its ripe savoury aromas, $49.95 pretty dark fruit flavours and slightly grippy tannins. $19 56 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

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129 TASTED 93 AWARDED RIESLING Fresh, vibrant, citrusy or complex aged dried lemon rind style RIESLING Peter Lehmann riesling offers a lot more than some people think. As one store $20 - $25 Wines Portrait Eden owner put it, \"don't tell people what it is just put a glass in their Valley Riesling hands.\" Lots to like here across all categories and all styles. 27 TASTED 2020 HHHH 18 AWARDED Brown lime on the RIESLING Rockridge Estate Portraits of Clare nose with a tight savory UNDER $20 Wines Clare Valley Clare Valley Riesling The judges agreed this lemon/lime palate that Riesling 2020 HHHH 2020 HHH was a more consistent has good fruit, good 15 TASTED Quite a closed nose with A lift of honeysuckle group of approachable texture and chalky-like 7 AWARDED a gentle line of citrus aromas with a well wines that are ready for acidity. $20 and more citrus on the structured, slightly drinking now but are not Knappstein Clare A very mixed lot here. succulent palate with sweet, musky fruit for ageing. “Generally, Valley Riesling There are good wines great sugar/acid balance. palate. $13.99 these needed a touch 2020 HHHH offering value for money $15 Hutt River Clare more linear acid to age,” Delicate and perfumed but there are some that Giesen Estate New Valley Riesling noted one judge. citrus-like aromas with show lack of freshness Zealand Riesling 2020 HHH an intense lime driven and others with the 2018 HHHH A riper nose - almost Loveblock Dry palate and a lively acid acidity out of balance. Developed toasty floral tropical and a generously Marlborough backbone. $22 characters on the nose flavoured palate. Riesling Belvidere Mosaic Kirrihill Regional and a pretty palate of Drinking well now. 2020 HHHH1/2 Clare Valley Riesling Selection Clare lush, sweet fruit flavours $18.99 Pretty honeycomb citrus 2015 HHHH Valley Riesling with a “clipped” acid The Sum by Castelli fragrances with some Lovely toasty 2020 HHHH1/2 line. $16.99 Great Southern herbaceous notes. Soft development but is still Nose shows grassy Freya and Jules Riesling 2019 HHH off-dry palate, lovely quite fresh for a five- herbaceous esters with Watervale Clare A perfumed floral texture with a good core year-old with generous delicate floral notes Valley Riesling confectionery bouquet of citrus fruit and nice lemon flavours. Good followed by a crisp 2020 HHH with lovely lengthy acid running through it. drinking now. $20 concentration of lemon Nice lifted floral citrus sweet fruit flavours. $21.99 NZ Richard Hamilton balm–like fruit flavours fragrances and quite a $19 Watervale Clare with steely acidity. $19 fleshy and flavoursome Jim Barry Watervale Valley Riesling palate. $8.99 Clare Valley Riesling 2019 HHH1/2 2020 HHHH Citrus nose with a hint Developed honeyed lime of toast and an elegant, bouquet and a sweeter textured palate with style of palate with a good lemony flavours long brown lime-like fruit and crisp acid. $20 drive and tart acidity. Forest of Echoes $20 Tasmania Riesling 2019 HHH1/2 Musky floral fragrances on the nose with apricot nuances and a slightly sweet, straightforward, palate. $24.99 JUDGES Brooke Blair Jessica Bloomfield Teresa Heuzenroeder Winemaker for Peter Lehmann Assistant winemaker, Senior winemaker Wines in the Barossa Valley. 18 Pernod Ricard wines for Yalumba wines. years in the wine industry; 11 for the past four years. Responsible for white years in Canada. Has vintaged Was dux at the AWAC wines and sparklings. in Spain, Chile, Canada & wine course and has Charles Sturt University Australia. Previously worked judged at the Canberra winemaking degree. at Hollick Wines, Berri Estates National Wine Show. Has Participated in the & Jackson-Triggs (Canada). completed vintages in Australian Wine Research Judged at the Marananga Napa Valley, Marlborough Institute (AWRI) advanced (Barossa) wine show and and with multiple assessment course in Okanagan show (Canada). Barossa vintages. 2005. 58 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Bunnamagoo Estate King of Clare Clare Dancing Queen by Cat Amongst the Mr Riggs Watervale Mudgee Riesling Valley Riesling Geoff Merrill Clare Pigeons Fat Cat Clare Valley Riesling 2018 HHH1/2 2019 HHH Valley Riesling Eden Valley Riesling 2020 HHHH Floral citrus nose with Nose has a toasty 2020 HHHHH 2020 HHHHH The nose is lifted and a toasty edge. Nice buttery development “Love this!” declared one A lovely, graceful aromatic with quite textured minerally palate with aged candied judge. “So pretty and so wildflower bouquet and a fleshy candied fruit with citrus flavours and flavours and a toasty elegant.” Lovely lime and a beautifully balanced palate with very tight toasty finish. $22 end. $20 bath salt-like aromas with palate with upfront lime- racy acid drive. Needs Iron House loads of spicy lemons on like flavours that linger more time. $25 Vineyards Tasmania The Enthusiast the chalky textured palate across the length of Reillys Watervale Riesling 2020 HHH Quintessential Clare with minerally acidity. $25 the palate with a great Clare Valley Riesling Citrus nose with slight Valley Riesling Paisley Wines finish. $29 2019 HHHH floral edge. Some 2019 HHH Cashmere Eden Kirrihill VSS Clare Buttery toasty age on residual sweetness on Honeysuckle nose with Valley Riesling Valley Riesling the citrus nose with the palate with fresh hessian notes and a soft 2020 HHHHH 2020 HHHHH generous candied acidity. $20 flavoursome palate; acid Quite a delicate bouquet A big hit of brown lime citrus and lemon butter Reillys Barking Mad keeping it fresh. $20 that is reminiscent of and spicy aromas lift off flavours. Good acid Watervale Clare Distant South meadow flowers with a the nose and has a lovely keeping it fresh. $25 Valley Riesling Tasmania Riesling typical regional flavour linear lime driven palate Hemera Estate 2020 HHH 2019 HHH profile with solid core of that has great texture and Barossa Valley Pretty floral aromas Tropical green characters lemon/citrus characters a delightful bright crisp Riesling 2017 HHHH with a lovely lift of lime on the nose and similar and a fresh acid drive in line of acid. $29 A lovely developed and good fruit intensity characters on the prickly support. $25 Rileys of Eden Valley toasty wine with lemon on the delicate palate. acid palate. $23 Old Vine Eden Valley curd aromas edged $20 Riesling with hessian notes and The Crafty Punter RIESLING 2020 HHHH1/2 buttery toasty lemon Clare Valley Riesling $25 - $30 Pretty bath salt-like flavours. $25 2020 HHH fragrances with a Pewsey Vale Confectionery citrus 39 TASTED citrusy zestiness. Vineyard Eden Valley bouquet and slightly 26 AWARDED Very tight linear palate Riesling 2020 HHHH broad palate with Quite a controversial with lime-like citrus Gooseberries and tropical fruit characters. group with mixed flavours showing some grapefruit lift off the $20 reviews from the judges. spiciness and a crisp nose with a palate that Mockingbird Hill Some judges preferred acid finish. $25 is tight, taut and linear Clare Valley Riesling firm citrus-like styles with a terrific lingering 2020 HHH with searing acidity Corryton Burge Kith after taste. $26 Savoury nose with while others looked for Eden Valley Riesling Pewsey Vale a green edge and a more varietal fruit with 2020 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Prima Eden generous up-front brown layers of concentration. A bouquet of lemons Valley Riesling lime palate; great acidity. A few wines managed and limes with slight 2019 HHH1/2 $20.49 to achieve both floral lift and bath salt Slight tropical bouquet Cat Amongst the requirements and a few nuances. Generous floral with a floral edge and a Pigeons Eden Valley of the older wines were citrus fruit flavours with candied citrus palate but Riesling 2020 HHH holding up well. some great lively acid to has some good acid to Quiet nose; some citrus balance. $28 balance it. $28 freshness with a big Koonara A Song For burst of lemon flavours Alice Coonawarra on the palate. $21 Riesling Gilberts Mount 2020 HHH1/2 Barker Great Lime esters on the nose Southern Riesling with green herbal notes, 2020 HHH good core of citrus fruit A lovely lift of brown flavours and a nice level lime aromas and great of acidity. $25 concentration of steely Singlefile Great lime flavours. $24 Southern Riesling Old Plains Longhop 2020 HHH1/2 Adelaide Hills Flinty floral fragrances Riesling 2020 HHH and a soft bright palate Aromas of apricots, with delicate flavours melons and florals and and good line of crisp fresh upfront green acidity. $25 asparagus-like flavours. $24 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 59

RIESLING Highland Heritage Bellarmine Wines Pepper Tree Limited Dinny Goonan Pewsey Vale Mt Canobolas Dry Dry Pemberton Release Orange Single Vineyard Vineyard 1961 Block Orange Riesling Riesling 2020 HHH Riesling Geelong Riesling Eden Valley Riesling 2020 HHH1/2 A great concentration 2020 HHHHH 2020 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 Delicate nose with a and drive of lime fruit Very aromatic citrus An excellent wine; great Looks very fresh slight green edge and with spicy notes and and floral bath salt-like example of the variety. and youthful with a very fine restrained textural acidity. $27 fragrances that carries Has slatey green herbal toasty nutty nose and green herbal/lime. Very through onto the aromas with a citrus beautifully poised and cool climate. $28 Koonowla Clare beautifully textured and zestiness and at tight balanced palate with Mitchelton Valley Riesling seamlessly balanced acid driven palate with intriguing bottle age Blackwood Park 2020 HHH palate with a persistent pure confectionery lime characters coming Nagambie Riesling A riper fuller style with line of acid. $30 flavours. $30 through. $32 2019 HHH1/2 pure lifted citrus varietal Kimbarra Great Claymore A lemon curd nose fruit fragrances and Plantagenet Angevin Western Riesling Superstition Clare with hints of hessian- flavours. $28 Great Southern 2020 HHHH1/2 Valley Riesling like development and Riesling A lovely wine described 2020 HHHH generous lime flavours Castelli Estate Great 2020 HHHHH by one judge as A citrusy nose starting with bright acid. $25 Southern Riesling A great brown lime “Glacial!” Smelling of to show some honeyed Leconfield Old Vines 2019 HHH bouquet with yeast green apples and limes development and has a Coonawarra Riesling Stonefruit fragrances with esters. Palate has with lots going on, on pure core of citrus fruit 2019 HHH1/2 a rose petal-like lift and fabulous weight, length the palate; a complexity and bright acid on the Funky elements over good acid/sugar balance and texture with an of citrus, minerality and palate. $32 floral fruit fragrances. on the palate. $26 enjoyable concentration racy acid. $30 Carillion Origins Savoury palate; great of lime based flavours GM198 Clone purity of varietal fruit PepperGreen Estate and bright acidity. $32 Orange Riesling flavours. $26 Dry Orange Riesling Hollydene Estate 2019 HHHH Erin Eyes Emerald 2019 HHH Eden Valley South Green tropical aromas Isle Clare Riesling Lean, linear and Australia Riesling with a citrusy edge and 2020 HHH restrained style with 2016 HHHH1/2 some age evolving. Soft Hints of citrus on the delicate purity of floral Showing excellent in the mouth with fresh nose and a great citrus citrus varietal fruit. $28 toasty development citrus flavours. $30 driven palate, quite to the lemon butter Pepper Tree Limited sweet with a greenish Heggies Vineyard bouquet and more Release Orange acid. $25 Estate Eden Valley lemon butter on the still Riesling 2019 HHHH Mitchelton Riesling 2019 HHH very fresh and youthful Toasty varietal fruit Blackwood Park A toasty nose with a palate with lovely fragrances and nice Nagambie Riesling peppery lift and a high complexity and zippy weight of fruit on the 2020 HHH acid lemony varietal acidity. $30 textured palate with A sound, savoury and palate. $26 just the right amount of “honest” style. Peppery acid. $30 lift to the nose and RIESLING Pokolbin Estate slatey length to the $30 - $35 Hunter Valley palate. $25 Riesling 2018 HHHH Mr Riggs Ein Riese 20 TASTED A great wine, still very Adelaide Hills 16 AWARDED tightly wound, but just Riesling 2020 HHH starting to develop Delicate honeyed citrus A consistent group of toasty complexity with nose and very sweet wines that are a step a grippy edge. Needs flavours with a decent above the previous time. $30 amount of acid to cut flights. “We are seeing Barossa Boy through. $25 a bit more power and Cheeky Tilly Eden Soul Growers Eden concentration with Valley Riesling Valley Riesling retained freshness and 2019 HHH1/2 2020 HHH attention to detail,” Complex nose looking Lovely nose; ripe and commented one judge. developed but still has savoury with a very freshness. Generous pretty off-dry palate and Paulett Wines Polish layered lime driven lively acid finish. $25 Hill River Clare flavours. “More-ish!” $30 Ironwood Estate Valley Riesling Porongurup Great 2020 HHHHH Southern Riesling “Gorgeous!” An 2020 HHH elegant and quite A typical cool climate savoury style with riesling. An herbaceous great varietal fruit nose and green fruit purity and weight, flavours with great some delightful floral acid. $26 touches and a tight acid line. “Great linear direction.” $30 60 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Bream Creek Colmar Estate Block Paulett Wines 109 Mapleton Vineyards Z Wine Saul Eden Vineyard Tasmania 6 Orange Riesling Clare Valley Riesling Tasmania Riesling Valley Riesling Riesling 2019 HHHH1/2 2020 HHHH 2020 HHH1/2 2020 HHH 2019 HHH1/2 A nose of citrus blossom “A fabulous varietal,” Nose has a floral/lychee- A very fresh zesty wine Gewürz-like characters and green tropical fruit enthused one judge. A like lift with generous with lively and persistent on the nose, a riper with a lychee-like lift. mix of herbal and green fruit flavours and a lemon fruit and herbal fuller citrus driven palate Profuse concentration tropical aromas and seamless acid/sugar notes. $35 and good symmetry of of lemon/citrus fruit flavours with a grippy balance. $40 Zarephath sugar/acid. $31 flavours and good balance finish. $80 Colmar Estate Block Single Vineyard between sweetness and Delatite 'Vivienne's 5 Orange Riesling Porongurup Great Reillys Watervale acidity. $35 Block' Upper 2019 HHH1/2 Southern WA Clare Valley Riesling Coolangatta Goulburn Riesling Lemony nose with floral Riesling 2019 HHH 2018 HHH1/2 Estate Winsome 2019 HHHH nuances and some Almost gewürztraminer- A lovely sound wine Shoalhaven Coast Green apples obvious on toastiness starting to like nose with generous that is maturing nicely Riesling the nose with crunchy show on the persistent fleshy mandarin fruit with floral citrus fruit, 2017 HHHH1/2 apple flavours edged citrus palate. $35 flavours. $35 toastiness and lively acid Powerful toasty with citrus and a great Weingut Plantagenet Wyjup drive. $30 maturity on the nose line of crisp acid. $55 Bründlmayer Collection Mount but also shows zesty Weingut Ried Zoebinger Barker Riesling Mesh Eden Valley fresh citrus elements. Bründlmayer Heiligenstein 2019 HHH Riesling Bright, fresh and still Ried Zoebinger 1ÖTW Lyra Reserve Lifted lemon curd nose 2019 HHH1/2 very youthful palate Heiligenstein 1ÖTW Kamptal Riesling and good citrus flavours A subdued green apple with rich flavours Lyra Kamptal 2017 HHH1/2 with searing acid nose showing some underpinned by the Riesling 2019 HHHH Very buttery and very ensuring a long life. $45 development with an acid. $50 Very floral nose – almost toasty but still shows Reillys Museum intensely crisp lemon/ Mockingbird Hill viognier-like. Creamy in youthful tropical fruit Release Watervale citrus palate. $32 Single Vineyard the mouth with rich ripe characters with a tight Clare Valley Riesling Hayshed Block Clare flavours in the tropical acid line. $68 2017 HHH Pokolbin Estate Valley Riesling spectrum. $68 Paulett Wines Smells like fresh Hunter Valley 2020 HHHH Reillys Museum Aged Release Clare buttered toast with Riesling 2019 HHH Lovely fragrances of Release Watervale Valley Riesling lemon curd - has similar Minerally fruit aromas jasmine and citrus Clare Valley Riesling 2015 HHH1/2 flavours. Drink soon. $40 with generous layers of blossom and great 2016 HHHH Some attractive Weingut lemon/lime flavours and floral fruit flavours with Great toasty maturity on toasty age lifted by Bründlmayer a tight acid line. $30 some stunning flinty the lemon butter nose. the freshness of fruit. Ried Zoebinger complexity. $38 Soft, creamy and toasty Creamy in texture with a Heiligenstein RIESLING Magpie Hill Reserve in the mouth with an tight acid backbone. $75 1ÖTW Lyra Reserve $35 + Great Southern intense core of sweet Peter Lehmann Kamptal Riesling Riesling 2020 HHHH fruit. $40 Wines Wigan Eden 2016 HHH 28 TASTED Very lifted citrus aromas Reillys Watervale Valley Riesling Funky lemon nose with 26 AWARDED and a pretty palate Clare Valley Riesling 2014 HHH1/2 some toastiness and with fleshy citrus 2010 HHHH Beautifully ageing loads of citrus flavours An excellent class! “This flavours, some residual A golden wine with soft and creamy style on a tight palate. $68 shows the great ageing sweetness and slightly aromas like “melted with lemon grass-like Dopff Au Moulin ability of this variety,” tart acidity. $42 butter” and a warm characters and a savoury Grand Cru said one judge. “A great and toasty palate with edge. Still fresh. $35 Schoenenbourg AOC class to judge with great lemon butter Eden Hall Reserve Grand Cru Alsace clean fresh fruit across persistence. $40 Eden Valley Riesling Riesling 2015 HHH the board along with Erin Eyes Pride of 2020 HHH A honeyed, almost complex varietal layers.” Erin Single Vineyard A tight, linear and well apricot, bouquet. Soft, “These tended to be Reserve Clare focused riesling with sweet and tropical on purer and more varietal Riesling lemon citrus fruit drive the palate. $44.99 rather than regional,” 2020 HHH1/2 and crisp acidity. $35 Patrick of noted another. Charming aromas of Singlefile Single Coonawarra Aged citrus zest and green Vineyard Mount Coonawarra Riesling Robert Stein White melons with a slatey Barker Riesling 2014 HHH Mudgee Riesling note. Upfront flavours 2020 HHH Toasty lemon butter nose, 2020 HHHHH with racy acidity. $35 Honeyed nose with floral good flavour intensity and A well put together and Kirrihill E.B.'s esters and a heart of still showing fresh acidity. flavoursome wine with The Settler Clare citrus flavours with good $39 a shy nose that shows Valley Riesling acid to balance. $35 delicate honeyed floral 2020 HHH1/2 fragrances and a tight Quite an aromatic nose green apple palate with a floral lift and a with crunchy lime-like minerally palate with acidity. $35 good length of lime flavours. $35 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 61

112 TASTED 71 AWARDED SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDS This is the most out there obvious white variety that also is Sileni Estates arguably the most popular quaffer white wine in the market place. Cellar Selection However, it should be said that there are also some amazing Marlborough examples that show how good it can be. And contrary to opinion Sauvignon Blanc the best can also age and improve for a few years also. 2020 HHHH1/2 Very pungent tropical fruit bouquet but not overbearing. The palate is fresh and crunchy with jasmine-like characters edged with some citrus notes. $13.95 SAUVIGNON Giesen Estate BLANC Marlborough UNDER $20 Sauvignon Blanc 2020 HHHHH 31 TASTED Complex bouquet with great concentration and 16 AWARDED lift of gooseberry-like characters and loads The general consensus of flavour complexity Yilgarnia Denmark across the board was with intense acidity Sauvignon Blanc that this is a very mixed and developing an oily 2020 HHHH group with the best texture. $16.99 “A yummy sauvignon being great and the blanc!” Has a big worst the worst! “The impact of tropical good wines here are fruit, gooseberries and what the consumers asparagus characters want; fresh and well with a smoky element. made,” noted one judge. $19 Spinyback Nelson Mount Riley The Ned Waihopai Fox Gordon Sassy Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Valley Marlborough Adelaide Hills 2020 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Excellent concentration 2020 HHHHH 2020 HHHH 2020 HHHH of varietal fruit pungency A lovely, elegant and A lovely creamy style Pretty floral perfumed on the nose and a lovely seamlessly balanced with good varietal lift bouquet and a delicate tight, slightly sherbety, sauvignon blanc. Good to the nose and very and lengthy palate with palate that is fresh and varietal lift to the nose varietal pungent fruit some great acidity and zingy with a good line of and expresses zingy flavours laced with zesty interesting phenolics. acid. $13.95 citrus flavours with acidity. $18.99 NZ $19.95 fine phenolics adding Patrick of Ara Single Estate complexity. $15 Coonawarra Mother Marlborough of Pearl Coonawarra Sauvignon Blanc Music Bay & Wrattonbully 2020 HHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc The nose is complex Sauvignon Blanc 2020 HHHH and fruity; the palate is 2020 HHHHH Pretty grapefruit-like a citrus flavour bomb Good gooseberry-like aromas with nice underscored with plenty based aromas showing spiciness. The palate of acid. $19.99 some pungency and a has almost botrytis-like solid, nicely textured, characters which would palate with plenty of appeal to many. $19 intense and vibrant sweet varietal fruit flavours. $19.90 62 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Evans & Tate E&T SAUVIGNON Wangolina Raidis Estate The WA Sauvignon Blanc BLANC & Limestone Coast Kelpie Coonawarra 2019 HHH1/2 BLENDS Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Herbaceous and pea- $20-$25 2020 HHHH1/2 2020 HHH1/2 like aromas. The very An elegant varietal. Nose is delicate, pretty pretty palate is elegant 33 TASTED Lovely tropical and very varietal. Super and steely with hints of 19 AWARDED fragrances mixing tangy acid on the sweetness. $12 with green bean-like elegant palate. “Very There were more characters. Steely palate more-ish!” $22 Mike Press Single pretenders in this texture with capsicum Boat O'Craigo Black Vineyard Adelaide class compared with flavours and savoury Spur Yarra Valley Hills Sauvignon the previous one. “If notes. $20 Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2020 HHH you don’t have it in the Invivo Marlborough 2020 HHH1/2 Subtle varietal nose vineyard you can’t get it Sauvignon Blanc Pretty stonefruit and with peppery notes. in the winery!” said one 2020 HHHH1/2 lemon aromatics with Full and fleshy in the judge. “It is better to A pretty floral nose subtle tropicals. Well mouth and slightly pick early to build more with a spicy lift and balanced palate; soft and sweet. $12.99 texture but if you pick some varietal pungency. “clipped”. $24 too late you can’t build Rounded fruit palate – Chain Of Ponds Waimea Nelson varietal character.” There Hollydene Estate some sweetness but Black Thursday Sauvignon Blanc were some great wines JUUL Upper Hunter in balance and showing Adelaide Hills 2020 HHH at the top end worth the Valley Sauvignon nice oak selection. $22 Sauvignon Blanc Snow peas and green extra few dollars. Blanc Semillon Giesen Organic 2020 HHH esters mingle on the 2015 HHHHH Marlborough Subtle asparagus nose with a very soft Starborough “A good-looking wine.” Sauvignon Blanc fragrances and tight acid and subtle spicy palate. Sons Of The Soil A lovely honeycomb 2019 HHHH1/2 palate with perfumed $13.95 Marlborough complexity to the A solid wine very varietal fruit pushing through. Sauvignon Blanc buttery nose with toasty and very complex. $20 Scarpantoni Estate 2020 HHHHH complexity on the palate Lovely, lifted gooseberry Portarlington Ridge McLaren Vale Great weight and purity but has good fruit still and passionfruit Bellarine Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc of varietal fruit here. Very evident and plenty of characters with a Blanc 2020 HHH 2020 HHH pungent aromas with acidity. $22 complex smoky savoury A zesty bouquet of Estery tropical fruit hint of dried apricots. Lawson's Dry element and nice mangoes and limes and fragrances and pretty The sweetness on the Hills Marlborough zestiness. $21.99 a lovely lively acid driven confectionery fruit palate is balanced out Sauvignon Blanc Castelli Great palate. $20 flavours. $15 by some massive acid! 2020 HHHH1/2 Southern Sauvignon Tomich Hill Adelaide $21.99 NZ Brilliant colour with Blanc Semillon Hills Sauvignon Trentham Estate funky pungent tropical 2019 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2020 HHH Murray Darling Invivo & Co fruit with a floral note. Big, ripe and developed Subtle tropical fruit Sauvignon Blanc Graham Norton's Soft in the mouth, with with lemon-like semillon aromas but flavours in 2020 HHH Own Marlborough a good palate with characters more obvious the citrus spectrum with A nose of oranges and Sauvignon Blanc a seamless balance but has some asparagus an overall smokiness. lemon with sweet notes. 2020 HHHHH between ripe fruit and nuances with a warm $20 A savoury palate with A great wine – “solid crunchy acid. $20 NZ and delicious slightly Ponting Wines First good acid line. $18 and well managed,” savoury palate. $22 Session Adelaide according to one judge. Koonara Angels Hills Sauvignon Mitchelton VBBAEULSYUTSE Has aromas of peach Footprint Mount Blanc 2020 HHH The Bend blossom and pineapple Gambier Sauvignon Subdued nose with citrus King Valley with delicate fruit Blanc 2020 HHH1/2 nuances. Tight palate Sauvignon Blanc sweetness on the palate Nose is slightly pungent showing good level of 2019 HHH and balancing acid. $22 and a bit tropical with mineral acidity. $22 Interesting aromas good palate weight Distant South – quite spicy and and texture and a flinty Tasmania Sauvignon perfumed with generous finish. $20 Blanc 2019 HHH preserved lemon Invivo X Sarah Interesting style not flavours. $15 Jessica Parker typically varietal with Marlborough candied pineapple Sauvignon Blanc and red apple fruit 2020 HHH1/2 characters. $23 Savoury nose, slight meaty note and hint of pepper. Quite sweet on the palate but has meaty complexity. $22 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 63

SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDS Giesen Small Hamelin Bay Wines Freycinet Wineglass Wines By Geoff Patritti Merchant Batch Marlborough Margaret River Bay Tasmania Hardy K1 Single Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard Adelaide Sauvignon Blanc 2019 HHH 2020 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 Hills Sauvignon 2020 HHH Quite fresh on the nose Clean, lean and lovely Lovely ripe and Blanc 2020 HHH1/2 Lean, clean and slightly with hints of peaches with pretty grapefruit heady fragrances “Massive” intensity of one dimensional with and a zesty, slightly aromas mingling of passionfruit and tropical fruit characters pretty florals and tropical sweet, palate. $24.99 with snow peas and pineapple. The palate is laced with crisp acidity fruit hints. $25 asparagus – very delicate, sweet, pungent and a long lively finish. Mount Avoca Estate Konrad Single varietal. Long, well- and perfectly balanced $25 Organic Pyrenees Estate Marlborough balanced palate with a with plenty of acid. $28 Fenian Mornington Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc “pithy” texture. $26 Grounded Cru Peninsula Sauvignon 2020 HHH 2019 HHH Woody Nook Limited Cru Adelaide Hills Blanc 2019 HHH1/2 A subtlety of peaches on Pungent mango bouquet Release Margaret Sauvignon Blanc Ripe and tropical with the nose and a rounded and a straightforward River Fumé Blanc 2019 HHHH some development palate with plenty of passionfruit driven 2020 HHHH1/2 A well integrated and evident and lovely layers length. $27.50 palate. $24.99 A great well-made wine nicely balanced varietal of buttery citrus-like Pepper Tree Limited with obvious oak on the showing some honeyed flavours. $25 Release Orange SAUVIGNON nutty honeyed nose. Big development and linear Bec Hardy Wines Sauvignon Blanc BLANC and buttery in the mouth acidity. “A wine with Pertaringa 2019 HHH $25-$30 with lots more oak but poise!” $25 Scarecrow Adelaide A very well balanced and has the quality fruit to Allandale Single Hills Sauvignon well-made varietal. Good 30 TASTED match. $28 Vineyard Orange Blanc 2020 HHH fruit structure and just 21 AWARDED Ara Organic Sauvignon Blanc Passionfruit nose with starting to mature. $25 Marlborough 2019 HHHH a hint of toast and Empirica by Castelli “Some outstanding Sauvignon Blanc A big pungent primary an attractive tightly Great Southern wines here well worth 2019 HHHH1/2 fruit bouquet and structured palate. $25 Sauvignon Blanc the money but some A pungent gooseberry an intensely varietal Blind River 2018 HHH were pushing their luck bouquet with nutty palate that is warm Marlborough Big ripe fuller style at this price level.” complexity, honeyed and ripe with savoury Sauvignon Blanc with good integration notes and hints of elements. $27 2020 HHH between the sweet Forester Estate bananas. Loads of Giesen The August Pungent asparagus fruit and aged Margaret River varietal fruit flavours on 1888 Marlborough esters and slightly oily characters. $29 Sauvignon Blanc the palate and pleasing Sauvignon Blanc and complex apricot Fox Gordon Abby 2020 HHHHH acidity. $26.99 2018 HHHH palate. $25 NZ Adelaide Hills Fumé Honeyed melon aromas Freycinet Wineglass A ripe style with lovely Fernfield Wines Our Blanc 2018 HHH mix with white peaches Bay Tasmania varietal definition, great Little Secret Eden An interesting wine and shows some ginger Sauvignon Blanc toasty complexity, gun Valley Sauvignon with good aromatic notes with a dash of 2019 HHHH1/2 flint characters and acid Blanc 2020 HHH complexity and loads of pepper. The palate is “A stunning wine,” holding it all together. Nice mix of lemon drop, flavour coming through. rich and generous with said one judge. “A $29.99 pineapple and ginger $29.95 a complexity of flavours pleasure to drink – near Lawson's Dry characters layered with and good acidity. $26 perfect!” It has some Hills Reserve the acid. $25 great lifted lemon Marlborough del Rios Geelong marmalade-like fruit Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc characters with good 2020 HHH1/2 2015 HHHHH creamy texture. $28 A very good example A beautifully aged of the variety with sauvignon blanc and asparagus and tropical yet, for a 5-year-old, it fruit characters and zingy shows fruit freshness acidity. $25 NZ and super tight acidity. Nice varietal esters on the nose and candied fruit flavours. $26 JUDGES Emma Walker Sam Watkins Natalie Cleghorn Winemaker for Claymore Winemaking Director at Winemaker with Wines. Has juged in Watkins Family Wine, the Yalumba Wine the New England wine offering contract processing Co since 1998. show and Australian services in the Adelaide Hills. Associate judge at Small Winemakers show. Associate judge at Royal the Barossa Wine Completed AWAC in Adelaide, Langhorne Creek Show, Stanthorpe 2014, is qualified in wine McLaren Vale and Clare. Small Winemakers science/viticulture. Also Chair of the Langhorne Creek and Adelaide wine completed WSET level 2 Winemaking Committee. show. and 3 in 2014. B.Sc Oenology, AWAC, WSET3. www.watkins.wine 64 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting SAUVIGNON Flowstone Margaret Gala Estate Tasmania Domaine La Croix St Nazaaray BLANC River Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Laurent Caillottes Mornington $30+ Blanc 2018 HHHHH 2020 HHHH1/2 Sancerre France Peninsula Sauvignon Great lemon sorbet-like Elegant nose smelling Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2019 HHH 18 TASTED fragrances layered with of gooseberries, 2018 HHHH1/2 An up-front textural style 15 AWARDED honey and cashews and pineapples and limes A perfectly balanced, with maturing aromas a big, rich and very fresh and an intensely well made and and generous developed Some great wines here! palate with a complex flavoured palate interesting style flavours. $33 “The best showed intensity of flavours and showing lovely length with subtle orange Greenstone Estate complex and weighty good line of acid. $32 and weight with a nice marmalade-like varietal Yarra Valley layers of fruit with Peccavi Margaret spicy drive to it. $32 fruit characters, some Sauvignon Blanc balancing acidity,” said River Sauvignon funky notes and a great 2019 HHH one judge. “Some Blanc 2017 HHHHH Singlefile Single line of acid. $50 Characters of others showed great Nutty buttery nose with Vineyard Pemberton Elysian Springs passionfruit and dried potential with good stonefruit nuances and Fumé Blanc Pennies from apricots with toasty oak varietal fruit.” “This hints of citrus. Very rich 2020 HHHH1/2 Heaven Adelaide and good acid running belies the impression palate still has plenty Creamy grassy green Hills Sauvignon through. $34 that sauvignon blancs of acid cutting through nose balanced by Blanc 2020 HHHH Domaine La Croix can’t age; good the ripe fruit. “Very smoky toasty oak. A pretty honeyed St Laurent Sancerre winemaking from good French-like,” noted one Palate exhibits lovely passionfruit bouquet France Sauvignon vineyards will always judge. $45 oak selection with and a palate that is light Blanc 2019 HHH come up trumps!” said pure and very elegant and fresh in the mouth Some citrus on the nose another. varietal fruit. Good with a slight spicy with faint lavender notes winemaking. $35 character. $30 and rich varietal punch to Cabbage Tree Hill Passel Estate Sidewood Estate the palate. $42 Tasmania Sauvignon Margaret River Mappinga Adelaide Clos Henri 'Bel Blanc 2020 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc Hills Fumé Blanc Echo' Marlborough A very sound wine 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc with great intensity and Oaky, savoury and An old school fumé style 2018 HHH balance between the tropical. “The whole that is lovely and toasty Quite ripe and tropical fruit and green package,” noted one and nutty and tropical developed with funky characters all wrapped judge. Nutty gooseberry supported by a good line nuances, tropical fruit up in generous crisp bouquet and silky of acid. $35 and honeyed melon. acidity with a long smooth perfectly Singlefile 'Small $34 NZ lingering finish. $30 balanced savoury and Batch' Barrel tropical palate. $30 Ferment Pemberton Kelvedon Tasmania Fumé Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2018 HHHH 2020 HHHHH “A beautiful textured A real classic style; quite white – my weakness,” complex with a funky admitted one judge. element. Has a pungent Lively aromatics with a passionfruit bouquet and secondary and tertiary quite a lean and delicate flavour profile. $39 palate with good flavour intensity and steely acidity. $35 STAR RATINGS  Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 112-113. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 65

PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO 76 TASTED 39 AWARDED PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO If ever there was a wine for drinking, not thinking it has to be this The Vegan Wine variety. Nothing wrong with that and for wine makers who leave the Project South fruit alone and allow it to shine there can be some fine examples Australia Pinot made. Two styles occur, the clean and lean citrus style and the more Grigio 2020 HHH savoury complex style. Subtle apple aromas with floral notes and a light leafy and herbaceous palate. $16 PINOT GRIS/ Babydoll Lake Chalice PINOT GRIS/ Tamburlaine Organic GRIGIO Marlborough Pinot The Falcon GRIGIO On The Grapevines UNDER $20 Gris 2020 HHHH Marlborough Pinot $20 - $25 Orange Pinot Gris Elegant and somewhat Gris 2019 HHH1/2 2020 HHHH1/2 13 TASTED restrained pear-like Gleaming green wine 30 TASTED A lovely wine – rich yet 7 AWARDED aromatics and a with floral lychees 11 AWARDED elegant with a floral delicately flavoured fragrances and a perfumed note to the A mixed bag of wines palate with a zesty nicely textured zesty Some poor winemaking varietal fruit nose and not surprising at this finish. $17.95 NZ minerally lemon palate. here as evidenced by lovely length of lemon level. However, there Celso Vento Pinot $18.99 NZ the results. “A number juice-like flavours with a were some nice Grigio 2019 HHH1/2 of these wines have not crisp finish. $20 examples of the styles. Pears and citrus on Trentham Estate been cleaned up and Trinity Hill Hawke's “Why would you make the nose with musky Murray Darling exhibit volatile faults Bay Pinot Gris wines that stick out floral notes and a nicely Pinot Gris or grubbiness showing 2020 HHHH1/2 at this price,” said one focused, lovely, lemony 2020 HHH a lack of attention A riper style with a nice judge. “You would still palate. $12 Some citrus notes to to detail,” said one fleshy texture. It has need to have balanced Jacob's Creek 1847 the nose and a pleasant judge. “There is a big a musky floral peach wines and not grippy SA Pinot Gris fleshy lemon palate. difference between and pear bouquet and flavours.” 2019 HHH1/2 $18 minimal intervention a seamlessly balanced Reserved citrus aromas and no intervention and fruit driven palate with and quite a dry palate The Ned in this low fruit variety a musky finish. with flavours of lemons Marlborough it really stands out!” $22.99 NZ and pears. Good acidity. Pinot Gris VBBAEULSYUTSE However, there were $18 good wines in those 2020 HHH recommended below. Subtle aromas of lemons and limes with a refreshing citrus driven palate. $18.99 NZ JUDGES Brooke Blair Steve Warrick James Evers Winemaker for Peter Lehmann Wine marketer with Senior Winemaker, Wines in the Barossa Valley. 18 20 years experience Nepenthe Wines and years in the wine industry; 11 in McLaren Vale, Australian Vintage (SA years in Canada. Has vintaged Coonawarra, Adelaide Premiums for 11 years). in Spain, Chile, Canada & Hills and Margaret Previously winemaker Australia. Previously worked River. Extensive wine at Mildara, Coonawarra at Hollick Wines, Berri Estates judging experience at and Glendonbrook and & Jackson-Triggs (Canada). the Adelaide, Hobart Rothbury in the Hunter Judged at the Marananga and McLaren Vale Valley. (Barossa) wine show and wine shows. Okanagan show (Canada). 66 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Koonara Lucy and Grandeur VBBAEULSYUTSE PINOT GRIS/ Glendon Vineyards Haselgrove Four Alice Coonawarra Wellington GRIGIO Landaire Padthaway Southern Boys Pinot Gris Artisan $25 - $30 Pinot Gris Adelaide Hills Pinot 2020 HHHH Adelaide Pinot Gris 2020 HHHH Grigio 2019 HHH Smells of Nashi pears 2020 HHH 21 TASTED Quite a savoury nose Quite a subdued nose and guavas and has a Nose in the tropical 12 AWARDED with a hint of musk. but nice intensity and nice long fleshy citrus spectrum and a long Elegant palate with drive of lemony citrus palate with some warming palate with a Better percentage of nice drive of floral flavours. $25 mouthwatering acidity. sweet finish. $20 well-made wines here citrus flavours and crisp $20 compared with the acidity. $28 Redbank Wines King Preece King previous class. “A solid Soumah Hexham Valley Pinot Grigio Lawson's Dry Hills Valley Pinot group that shows that Vineyard Yarra Valley 2019 HHH Marlborough Pinot Grigio VBBAEULSYUTSE this is a variety best to Pinot Grigio A well-made wine with a Gris 2020 HHHH drink when fresh,” noted 2020 HHHH mélange of citrus, pears Musky perfumed nose 2020 HHH one judge. Delicate copper tinted and apples on both nose with a savoury edge. Subtle estery nose and wine with a complexity and palate. $25 Lovely, textured palate a clean, refined and Grounded Cru Cru of pear and orange with lingering tropical refreshing palate with Adelaide Hills Pinot blossom aromas and PINOT GRIS/ flavours and balanced a lingering zesty end. Gris 2020 HHHH1/2 nicely balanced fruit GRIGIO sweetness. $20 NZ A delicacy of lemons flavours. $29 $30 + Thorn-Clarke and pears on the nose Apeiron Wines Sandpiper Eden with an aromatic lift. Limestone Coast 12 TASTED Valley Pinot Gris Elegantly structured Pinot Gris 9 AWARDED 2020 HHH1/2 palate with restrained 2019 HHHH Pretty perfumed tropical minerally citrus flavours Savoury nose with a A mixed group with aromas and lovely and a lemon zest-like tropical lift. Lots of more complex wines restrained orange finish. $25 interest on the lovely but also age becoming blossom flavours on a long, elegant palate a factor. There were also nicely textured palate. Hahndorf Hill with tropical/pear some borderline wines $20 Adelaide Hills Pinot flavours. $25 with marginal value for De Lisio Argento Grigio 2020 HHHH Redbank Wines the extra dollar. Adelaide Hills Pinot Lovely fresh lively wine. Sunday Morning Grigio 2020 HHH Green apple aromas King Valley Pinot Haselgrove Vincent's Reserved aromas of are layered with pears Gris 2019 HHHH Breeze Adelaide pears and citrus with and lemons and the Delicate florals on the Hills Pinot Grigio a lively sherbet-like fruit driven palate has a simple lemon nose and 2019 HHHH palate and good acid mineral edge. $25 flavours of lemons and Tightly wound, musky line. $20 limes with a mineral perfumed, bouquet with $20 thread and a brisk a lovely softly textured finish. $25 palate full of fleshy citrus McGuigan Cellar Poetic Justice by flavours and a lemony Select NSW Pinot Barristers Block finish. $30 Grigio 2020 HHH Adelaide Hills Pinot Ripe pear aromas with Gris 2020 HHH1/2 a citrus edge and a Easy drinking style with crisp lemon driven fruit nice concentration of palate. $22 lemon and pear-like fruit with floral elements. $26 Mr Brightside by Mr Riggs Lobethal Road Adelaide Hills Pinot Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2020 HHH Gris 2020 HHH Pungent citrusy bouquet Floral/pome fruit nose and a grippy palate with and lovely balance, a candied note and intensity and length of herbal finish. $22 citrus fruit flavours. $25 Boat O'Craigo Black Run Free by Grounded Cru Cru Spur Yarra Valley Singlefile Great Adelaide Hills Pinot Pinot Grigio Southern Pinot Gris 2019 HHH 2020 HHH Grigio 2020 HHHH Lovely intensity of An interesting toasty/ Aromas of pears with reserved lemon aromas savoury style with tropical hints. More pears and flavours with hints musky floral characters on the palate mixed with of tinned pears. $25 and lemon nuances. $24 guava-like characters. Nice phenolic grip. $25 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 67

PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO Saint Clair Godfrey's Gippsland Wine The Elder Pinot Creek Reserve Company Glen Martinborough Marlborough Pinot Forbes Vineyard Pinot Gris 2019 HHH Gris 2018 HHHH Gippsland Pinot Gris A toasty tropical fruit Very Alsatian in style 2019 HHH bouquet with freshness with lovely intensity A nicely developing of citrus and pineapple of pears and exotic sweet/savoury style – flavours. $47 spices. Nice mineral lots of interest brought backbone and crisp together by lovely acidity. $34.90 NZ acidity. $30 Stefani Estate Foxey's Hangout Foxey's Hangout STAR RATINGS  The View Yarra Mornington White Gates Valley Pinot Gris Peninsula Pinot Gris Mornington Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2019 HHHH 2019 HHH1/2 Peninsula Pinot Gris excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Green apple and Ripe tropical and pear 2019 HHH All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry mandarin-like fruit on aromas with a fleshy Subtle savoury nose and professionals and are compared in peer the nose with similar palate showing good simple tightly wound classes by three judges. characters echoed on length of green apple- palate with a mineral CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, the lovely long textured like flavours. $30 thread and flavours of a major mail-order business. palate. $35 Sorby Adams pears. $45 CD Cellar door price. Margret Eden Valley Stefani Estate The CDO Cellar door only. Pinot Gris View Yarra Valley SO Sold out. 2020 HHH Pinot Gris 2018 HHH $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Tropical nose with a Savoury aromas and  Contact information pg 112-113. floral lift and palate flavours with a hint of showing lovely elegance lemon and a sherbet- RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). and control. $35 like texture to the BEST VALUE for $20 & under. palate. $35 For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au Henson Lloyd Accountants has vast experience in all accounting areas Wayne Henson Emma Gesuato Lachlan Smyth across a broad range of industries, specifically, an immense amount of experience and knowledge within the Wine Industry, in particular: Please give us a call today for a free review and a no obligation FIXED price quote – (08) 8431 1644 • Business Structures • GST • WET Tax Calculations • Excise Calculations • Cost Accounting for the Wine Industry • Advice regarding JobKeeper, Cash Flow Boost • COVID-19 Stimulus Packages Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 8.30am to 5.00pm Phone: (08) 8431 1644 Email: [email protected] Address: Level 2, 229 Greenhill Road, Dulwich SA 5065 Website: www.hensonlloyd.com.au 68 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Family operated handcrafted basket pressed small batch vintages 50 years experience JofoionplriopmSfeofixrhtectereludsluln'ssraiitvenWyelediatsntopseheebsceCu!ialyulb [email protected] www.ralphfowlerwines.com.au December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 69

PINOT NOIR 147 TASTED 80 AWARDED PINOT NOIR A great selection of pinots here across all price categories to please the most selective buyer. However, it does seem that you get what you pay for at the pointy end where great winemaking meets great varietal fruit. And nice to see some yardstick Burgundies on display here also. PINOT NOIR Yealands UNDER $20 Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019 HHH 11 TASTED Floral fragrances with a strawberry lift and 4 AWARDED a spicy tannic palate. $18.95 NZ The judges were disappointed with Ara Single Estate Yealands Land Made Yealands Reserve this group. “Too many Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot forced, rather than Noir 2019 HHH Noir 2019 HHHH1/2 Noir 2019 HHHH1/2 varietal, wines here,” Ripe sweet cherry nose A big ripe and chocolaty A spicy cherry nose with said one judge. “Natural and a big tannic palate wine with a fragrant some savoury nuances ferment creates with good oak influence. lifted fruit bouquet and and a very solid and problems for this lightly $19.99 a plush palate rich with generous palate with structured variety – varietal fruit that is elements of sweet whilst some others PINOT NOIR sitting in the darker end varietal fruit and an added an element $20-$25 of the spectrum. $22 attractive fine line of of artifact that didn’t tannins. $22.95 NZ work!” 17 TASTED 8 AWARDED Mike Press Single Overall, these wines STAR RATINGS  Vineyard Adelaide were worth the extra Hills Pinot Noir few dollars. There was Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2018 HHHH more consistency and excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Perfumed rose petal some higher scored All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry aromas with cherry examples. Kiwis professionals and are compared in peer flavours, hints of dominated this category classes by three judges. forest floor characters offering good value for CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, and some complexity money. a major mail-order business. developing. $17.99 CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. Pete's Pure Murray SO Sold out. Darling Pinot Noir $N/A Price not available at time of printing. 2020 HHH  Contact information pg 112-113. A soft, simple and juicy young wine RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). with raspberry fruit BEST VALUE for $20 & under characters. $15 and NZ $25 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au 70 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Stumpy Gully The Ned PINOT NOIR The King's Wrath Tomich Woodside Peninsula Panorama Marlborough Pinot $25-$30 Marlborough Pinot Vineyard Adelaide Mornington Noir 2019 HHHH Noir 2018 HHH1/2 Hills Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot Noir A good spicy mid-weight 15 TASTED Delicate seamlessly 2019 HHHHH 2019 HHHH wine with confectionery 7 AWARDED balanced wine with A very good example A “real” pinot – elegant red/black fruits and cherry and strawberry of the variety showing and restrained with well some savoury elements “This group is in the fruit, oak in the great concentration defined varietal fruit kept nicely in check. no-man’s land for background and silky and power but still has and, “Good winemaking $24.99 NZ pinot,” noted one judge. tannins. $28.99 NZ finesse. The spicy red showing respect for the Oakdene Bellarine “Generally, these wines Innocent Bystander berry nose shows a hint fruit”. $22 Peninsula Geelong were varietal pinots but Yarra Valley Pinot of mint and the palate Lake Chalice Pinot Noir had winemaking faults Noir 2019 HHH has a nice savoury The Raptor 2019 HHH1/2 that let them down. Spicy leathery bouquet edge. $30 Marlborough Pinot A bright and However, there were a with a solid raspberry Wignalls Single Noir 2019 HHHH uncomplicated style number of good wines fruit palate and slightly Vineyard Albany Fresh and juicy red showing a very good that are worth trying.” gritty tannins. $25 Pinot Noir cherry fruit style with a colour with fruit in the Cat Out Of The Bag 2019 HHHH1/2 floral perfumed lift. “A rich ripe spectrum. $24 Akarua RUA Central Bellarine Peninsula Lovely colour with real crowd pleaser with Preece Yarra Valley Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Noir fragrant cherry aromas lovely bright fruit on Pinot Noir 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHH and very solid palate show.” $22.99 NZ 2019 HHH A straightforward, well Earthy forest floor of a beautifully balanced with Quite a big wine with made, wine with a nose and solid cherry dark concentrated floral rich dark fruit aromas savoury fruit nose and fruit palate with fine berry flavours and great and flavours and savoury nicely textured bright tannins. $28 line of acid. $34 tannins. $20 cherry palate. $25 PINOT NOIR Run Free by $30-$35 Singlefile Western Australia Pinot Noir 22 TASTED 2019 HHH1/2 A genuine pinot style – 12 AWARDED fine and delicate with ME by Matahiwi perfumed strawberry- “A rollercoaster of a Tamar Ridge Estate Wairarapa like fruit characters and group,” said one judge. Tasmania Pinot Noir Pinot Noir subtle oak. $25 “Lots of highs and 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH lows with too many Cherry fruit nose with Dark savoury fruit Mission Estate sulphide issues that a sappy edge and a with earthy characters Reserve are obnoxious in this juicy crunchy fruit palate developing and nice line Marlborough Pinot delicate varietal.” Wines showing plenty of power of tannins. $23.99 NZ Noir 2019 HHH1/2 ranged from super clean and drive, smart oak Big, dark and quite and featureless to those and great silky tannins medicinal style with a with excess artifact and providing length. $34 spicy mocha oak nose too much ‘character’. and a touch savoury in This is where great the mouth. $29 winemaking comes into its own. Leefield Station Marlborough Pinot Noir 2018 HHH1/2 Lovely nose of strawberries and cherries and a soft, simple and genuine varietal palate with grippy tannins. $27.99 NZ JUDGES Bill Hardy Adam Carnaby Dave Matthews Corporate oenologist Senior Winemaker for Formerly Winemaker at for Accolade Wines Seppelt. Has previously Rosemount and Group (formerly Constellation). worked in hospitality Winemaker for Treasury 28 years’ winemaking management at Wine estates. Vintages experience in places such Melbourne's Hilton Hotel. in Tuscany and California. as McLaren Vale, WA Completed a bachelor Judged in Australia and and France. Has judged degree in wine science at overseas. Currently with internationally (France Charles Sturt University Francois Freres cooperages & Japan), and been an and bachelor of applied and owner winemaker of associate senior judge science at RMIT. Formerly Gargoyle Wines. at 20+ state & regional winemaker for Yering wine shows in Australia. Station and Xanadu. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 71

PINOT NOIR Giesen Small Batch Taylors Jaraman Saint Clair Pioneer Marlborough Pinot Yarra Valley Pinot Block 5 Bull Block Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 Noir 2018 HHH Marlborough Pinot “Oak, oak and more A well-made wine Noir 2019 HHH1/2 oak,” noted one judge. with lifted cherry fruit, Bright crimson wine – Fragrant lifted cherry savoury elements and spicy and complex with fruit is seamlessly spicy oak. $32 plenty of rich dark fruit, integrated with some savoury tannins and lots classy oak and fine Nor'wester by of oak. $39.90 NZ tannins. “Thoughtful Greystone Waipara winemaking!” $34.99 North Canterbury Cloudbreak C Boat O'Craigo Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills Pinot Black Spur Yarra 2017 HHH Noir 2019 HHH Valley Pinot Noir Quite dark and “beefy” A very fragrant cherry 2019 HHHH with good varietal bouquet with complex A “genuine” varietal; expression and slightly and crunchy fruit flavour quite oaky with red drying tannins. $32 profile. $35 cherry fruit and whole bunch characters PINOT NOIR Zarephath Barristers Block Yes Said The Seal enhancing the $35-$40 Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Bellarine Peninsula complexity. Rich but not Porongurup Great Noir 2019 HHH Pinot Noir overdone. $32 20 TASTED Southern WA Pinot A straightforward style 2019 HHHH1/2 Devil's Corner 12 AWARDED Noir 2019 HHHH with plum fruit, roasted A powerful yet Resolution Tasmania Lovely purple colour oak characters and elegant pinot with Pinot Noir A more consistent group with a nice lift of dark chocolaty notes. $38 nicely evolving cherry/ 2018 HHHH with varying styles and fruit aromas and a big Saint Clair Pioneer plum fruit, loads of Youthful and tight with, winemaking techniques. sound palate filled with Block 14 Doctor's oak, attractive earthy/ “Hints of something “Overall, there is more juicy sweet flavours. Creek Marlborough beetroot-like characters interesting on the concentration of fruit Very well made. $35 Pinot Noir adding complexity and nose!” Earthy notes depth here,” said one Saint Clair Pioneer 2019 HHH some great tannins. $42 add complexity to the judge. “Winemakers Block 10 Twins Hill Leafy characters on palate. $34 need to be spot on with Marlborough Pinot the nose and a solid Nova Vita Firebird skin contact, whole Noir 2019 HHHH palate with some Adelaide Hills Pinot bunch character and oak Dark youthful and quite savoury roasted oak-like Noir 2019 HHH1/2 balance; either doing “muscular”. Savoury elements. $39.90 NZ Light and slightly something or nothing!” smoky oak and plum leathery bouquet with a nose and plush fruit Dalrymple Vineyards James Busby Yarra savoury and spicy palate Saint Clair Pioneer flavours with grainy Tasmania Pinot Noir Valley Reserve Yarra and loads of fine silky Block 15 Strip Block tannins. $39.90 NZ 2018 HHH Valley Pinot Noir tannins. $30 Marlborough Pinot Holly by Matahiwi A lovely lightweight 2019 HHHH Wignalls Single Noir 2019 HHHHH Estate Wairarapa pinot with spicy berry A pristine pure varietal Vineyard Albany A fine and subtle varietal Pinot Noir varietal fruit and a lift of full of soft red fruits with Pinot Noir with beautiful young 2019 HHHH smoky oak. $38 floral perfumed nuances 2018 HHH1/2 pinot fruit, a touch Complex aromas Faiveley Bourgogne and a complexity of Lifted floral blossom of sweetness, some showing some forest Rouge France Pinot earthy elements. $40 nose and complex pretty floral notes and floor nuances and loads Noir 2017 HHH Akarua cherry palate with earthy lovely dark and savoury of oak on the palate, but Great colour for its age Bannockburn Pinot secondary characters elements adding it is soaked up by the with medicinal plum fruit Noir 2019 HHHH and satiny tannins. $34 complexity. $39.90 NZ cherry fruit. $39.99 NZ and good level of spicy Pure varietal expression Clyde Park Locale Delta Hatters Hill oak. $38 of light leafy fruit with Geelong Pinot Noir Marchand & Burch Marlborough Pinot a floral edge and oak 2019 HHH Villages Great Noir 2019 HHH1/2 PINOT NOIR taking on a supporting A big rich wine with Southern Pinot Noir A big ripe oak driven role. “Delicious!” $45 powerful dark cherry fruit 2019 HHHH1/2 pinot with meaty expression and hints of Lifted cherry bouquet savoury nuances $40-$50 Saint Clair strawberries. $30 with a perfumed edge. and nice secondary Omaka Reserve Loveblock Bendigo Powerful varietal fruit characters developing. 29 TASTED Marlborough Pinot Central Otago Pinot flavours with a sweet $35 NZ 13 AWARDED Noir 2019 HHHH Noir 2019 HHH herbal element, some A lovely complex varietal Tightly wound with secondary characters Great consistency – dark and savoury what one judge said developing and silky evident from the 2019 with juicy plum and was, “Unusual fruit tannins. $39 vintage wines with lifted spicy cherry fruit expression but definitely good varietal character characters, a touch a pinot!” $31.99 NZ raisined. $45.90 NZ and balance. However, Bellarine Estate the 2018 and older Phil's Bellarine Pinot wines really fell off the Noir 2019 HHH1/2 cliff –showing either A richer style of pinot dull development or with sweet cherry/berry winemaking faults. fruit, violet nuances and roasted oak-like characters. $40 72 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Holly South Series Colmar Estate PINOT NOIR Pipers Brook Wairarapa Pinot Noir Orange Pinot Noir $50-$70 Tasmania Pinot Noir 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHH 2019 HHHH1/2 A big, rich and complex A bright and pleasant 15 TASTED A well made, fresh and wine exhibiting loads of drink with lifted floral red 7 AWARDED uncomplicated style oak, some fruit to match cherry fruit and hints of of pinot with intense and a long lingering oak. $45 “Yet another roller red cherry fruit, floral finish. $46.99 NZ Ross Hill Wines coaster ride for pinot nuances, a fair whack Leura Park Estate Orange NSW Pinot noir,” declared one of oak and some lovely Bellarine Peninsula Noir 2019 HHH judge. “Regardless racy acidity. $50 Pinot Noir A light, nicely textured of price point we see 2019 HHH style with strawberry overuse of oak in Pipers Brook A straightforward style. fruit and earthy, forest some wines here and Tasmania Pinot Noir Cherry fruit on the nose floor elements. $45 winemaking faults in 2018 HHHH1/2 and a bright, clear and Mount Avoca some of the others.” A fresh and juicy flavoursome palate. $42 Headspace Pyrenees “But the best showed varietal with perfumed Scotchmans Hill Pinot Noir balanced wines with floral fragrances and a Geelong Pinot Noir 2019 HHH purity of varietal fruit bright red cherry and 2019 HHH A lightweight style with expression,” noted strawberry fruit palate A big solid wine with fragrant spicy red cherry another. with plenty of lovely fine dark brooding cherry- fruit and a subtle hint of and delicate tannins. $60 like fruit and attractive oak. $49 cedary oak. $42 PepperGreen Estate Coal Pit Tiwha Tamar Ridge Reserve Clyde Park Estate Southern Highland Central Otago Pinot Tasmania Pinot Noir Geelong Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Noir 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH 2018 HHH A typical pinot with An attractive cherry fruit Bright spicy red fruit, Sweet strawberry and delicate aromas showing bouquet and a complex some barnyard nuances violet characters, oak lovely subtlety of spicy and flavoursome and nicely balancing just peeking through and floral fruit that follows amalgam of red savoury oak. $45 a classic silky finish. $45 through onto a palate plum fruit, dark floral that has oak kept more characters, and smart in the background and oak with firm velvety silky-smooth tannins. tannins. $65 $57 NZ December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 73

PINOT NOIR Singlefile 'Small Clyde Park Block Clyde Park Block PINOT NOIR Batch' Porongurup B2 Single Block D Single Block $100+ Pinot Noir Geelong Pinot Noir Geelong Pinot Noir 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHHH1/2 2019 HHH1/2 7 TASTED Lots of cedary oak A riper, fatter, softer A big dark brooding 7 AWARDED with juicy dark fruit style of pinot; great wine, almost raisined underneath and an colour, a lifted spicy and quite tannic with Outstanding class! abundance of fine perfumed red fruit lovely layers of fruit, “Bloody amazing tannins without being nose and pretty floral spices and oak. $75 class of wines from a drying. $59 characters running Lupé-Cholet great 2017 vintage,” through the spicy Savigny-lès-Beaune commented one judge. French Island savoury fruit palate. $75 Les Picotins “There is amazing Vineyards ile de Clyde Park Block Burgundy France power and restraint Francais Gippsland F Single Block Pinot Noir both evident here.” Pinot Noir Geelong Pinot Noir 2014 HHH “Here we see depth of 2019 HHH1/2 2019 HHHH1/2 Earthy aromas with fruit character from the Some very good Described by one judge sweet tar-like notes and ripe yet vibrant fruit.” varietal fruit, plenty of as being, “a stylish, a savoury and tannic “A pleasure to taste,” mocha oak and mouth- finer and harmonious palate. $82.50 agreed the judges. coating, silky smooth, style”. Lovely seamless TerraVin Te Ahu tannins. $60 integration between Marlborough Pinot Domaine Faiveley the fruit, floral Noir 2013 HHH Beaune 1er Cru Highland Heritage Plantagenet Wyjup elements, spicy oak A graceful, beautifully 'Clos de l'Ecu' Patrono Orange Collection Mount and the acid. $75 aged pinot with (Monopole) France Pinot Noir Barker Pinot Noir The Elder Pinot sweet berries mixing Pinot Noir 2019 HHH 2019 HHHHH Martinborough with mushroomy 2017 HHHHH Dark varietal fruit with a Great pinot nose Pinot Noir complexity. $70 Dark brooding and hint of mint, roasted oak with fragrances of 2018 HHHH1/2 TerraVin Eaton tightly wound pinot that notes and hints of earthy strawberries and rose A very generous and Family Vineyard needs more time to complexity. $55 petals. Soft and warm in very varietal style with Marlborough Pinot evolve. It has an intense the mouth with flavours pleasant crunchy sour Noir 2012 HHH concentration of dark PINOT NOIR of sweet cherries cherry-like fruit, nice Very developed and cherry-like fruit with $70 - $100 supported by classy oak oak in a supporting role, showing forest floor and an earthy lift, lots of and supple tannins. $70 fine tannins and savoury soy-like complexity with oak and tannins and an 11 TASTED Foxey's Hangout complexity. $95 hints of fruit. $80 endless finish. $102 10 AWARDED Kentucky Road New Certan Single 777 Mornington Vineyard Tasmania Jean-Marc Bouley “An excellent class of Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Volnay Rouge consistent, impeccably 2019 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH France Pinot Noir made and beautifully A fresh juicy wine with A perfumed fruit 2017 HHHHH balanced wines,” a pristine varietal fruit bouquet and a good Stylish and complex enthused one judge. bouquet and a tightly savoury style palate wine showing certain “These are harmonious wound, finely balanced, that is a little meaty and elegance. Violets, red wines where the fruit palate with a powerful quite delicate with lots plum and cherry fruit shines through with hit of fruit flavours and a of sweet oak. $95 characters with a “dark vibrancy and length,” gentle hint of oak. $70 element” underneath. said another. “Elegant Quite tannic with a great rather than brutish wines long and lingering finish. showing suppleness and $125 balance.” Visit our website and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, news, competitions, tastings and events. Become a subscriber to enter into our exciting regular competitions. www.winestate.com.au 74 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Domaine Faiveley Jean-Marc Bouley Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Pommard France Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru 'Les Pinot Noir 1er Cru 'Les Porets Cazetiers' France 2017 HHHH1/2 Saint-Georges' Pinot Noir An oak driven style France Pinot Noir 2017 HHHHH but has lovely purity, 2017 HHHH1/2 Ripe brooding lifted concentration and weight Flinty characters lift off the earthy fruit fragrances of lifted cherry fruit and spicy red fruit nose and and a powerful palate beetroot complexity the palate has a powerful with super pure cherry- beneath. Slightly and complex combination like fruit flavours that, dominated by “muscular” of cherry fruit, cedary oak according to one judge, tannins. $130 and silky tannins. $154 “Just go on and on and on!” $208 Géantet-Pansiot Gevrey Chambertin Yarra Yering Yarra France Pinot Noir STAR RATINGS  Valley Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH1/2 A monster of a pinot Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of A youthful tightly – way too young and excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. wound wine with tannic at the moment. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry fabulous pure and The fruit is at the very professionals and are compared in peer powerful varietal fruit ripe end of the spectrum classes by three judges. characters reminiscent with good concentration CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, of blueberries and of tobacco/cigar-like oak. a major mail-order business. plums with ethereal Years ahead of it! $140 CD Cellar door price. oak overtones. Will age CDO Cellar door only. well. $105 SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 112-113. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under and NZ $25 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 75

40 TASTED 40 AWARDED SEMILLON & BLENDS Semillon can be a such a contradiction; refreshing and citrus-like SEMILLON & when young, but powerful and complex with age with all kinds of BLENDS toasty layered flavours of lemon and hay! $20 - $30 11 TASTED 11 AWARDED SEMILLON & Midnight's Promise Chain Of Ponds A solid group of Briar Ridge Vineyard BLENDS Hunter Valley Novello Adelaide wines across the Stockhausen UNDER $20 Semillon Hills Semillon board here. “The best Signature Hunter 2014 HHHHH Sauvignon Blanc were balanced and Valley Semillon 7 TASTED “A great example of a 2020 HHH integrated while some 2017 HHHH1/2 7 AWARDED semillon – very classy,” Pungent herbaceous of the others showed Pale straw in colour with thought one judge. nose and well-balanced unnecessary forced green highlights and A consistent group of There is an abundance tropical fruit palate with acidity,” said one judge. delicate toasty aromas no fault, good drinking, of lemon sherbet-like a zesty finish. $16 and a lovely intensity wines. “A pleasure to characters with beautiful Yilgarnia Denmark Hamelin Bay and persistence of citrus taste and offering good buttery toast maturity Semillon Sauvignon Margaret River on the palate. Will age value for your money,” coming through. $18 Blanc 2020 HHH Semillon beautifully. $28 said one judge. De Bortoli Sacred Fresh cut grass Sauvignon Blanc The Willows Hill Semillon characters with a hint 2020 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Single Midnight's Promise Sauvignon Blanc of citrus lift off the nose The nose is pungent Vineyard Barossa Hunter Valley 2020 HHHH and fill the mouth with and herbaceous with Valley Semillon Semillon A clean refreshing style flavour. $17 aromas of limes, green 2020 HHHH 2017 HHHHH with passionfruit and Midnight's Promise apples and passionfruit. Delicate lemon bouquet A very well-made, citrus aromas, tasty Hunter Valley The tropical fruit driven with hints of cut hay. pale-yellow wine with tropical fruit flavours Semillon 2019 HHH palate is beautifully Nicely weighted palate green tints. It has and a good line of acid. A pleasant easy textured with “nervy” with intense flavours delicate lemon curd- $7.50 drinking style just acid! $26 reminiscent of apples like characters on the Yilgarnia Denmark starting to develop and pears. $20 nose and palate with Semillon some toasty secondary a subtlety of buttery/ 2016 HHH1/2 notes. $18 toasty age nuances. Somewhat reserved $18 candied nose with a floral lift and toasty edge and nice range of citrusy flavours. $19 JUDGES Brooke Blair Steve Warrick James Evers Winemaker for Peter Lehmann Wine marketer with Senior Winemaker, Wines in the Barossa Valley. 18 20 years experience Nepenthe Wines and years in the wine industry; 11 in McLaren Vale, Australian Vintage (SA years in Canada. Has vintaged Coonawarra, Adelaide Premiums for 11 years). in Spain, Chile, Canada & Hills and Margaret Previously winemaker Australia. Previously worked River. Extensive wine at Mildara, Coonawarra at Hollick Wines, Berri Estates judging experience at and Glendonbrook and & Jackson-Triggs (Canada). the Adelaide, Hobart Rothbury in the Hunter Judged at the Marananga and McLaren Vale Valley. (Barossa) wine show and wine shows. Okanagan show (Canada). 76 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting McGuigan Bin Saddler's Creek Coolangatta Estate Hollydene Estate Coolangatta Estate 9000 Hunter Valley Wines Hunter Valley Wollstonecraft Upper Hunter Valley Wollstonecraft Semillon Semillon 2019 HHH Shoalhaven Coast Semillon Shoalhaven Coast 2020 HHHH Very tightly wound Semillon 2013 HHHH Semillon A reserved nose with wine that will age well 2018 HHHH1/2 A lovely wine that is 2016 HHHH1/2 a slight citrus lift and with subtle intensity of A very good well-made right for drinking now. Green peas and limes on followed by lovely honeyed lemon fruit. $26 wine. Distinct green pea Smells of buttered toast the nose and edged with intense lemony fruit characters on the nose and has a richly textured toasty notes. Palate has flavours with some racy SEMILLON & with a slight citrus note creamy lime palate. $32 lovely mouthfeel with a acidity. $25 BLENDS and a zesty, lime driven, very refreshing balance McGuigan Bin $30 - $40 palate showing a sweet Wangolina The between the acid and 9000 Hunter Valley edge. $35 Originals Mount fruit. Classy! $40 Semillon 10 TASTED Benson Semillon Tempus Two Pewter 2018 HHHH 10 AWARDED Briar Ridge Vineyard 2019 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Attractive floral citrus 'Dairy Hill' Single An excellent Semillon fruit with a sweet A very strong and Vineyard Hunter concentration and 2015 HHHH1/2 edge, some mineral consistent class of Valley Semillon balance of pungent A very well-made wine elements and nice superb wines. “All power 2017 HHHH1/2 citrus fruit characters with delicate zesty secondary characters and elegance,” said one Still looking very on both the nose and green fruit fragrances developing. $25 judge. “Get these into youthful with lots of palate. $32 showing a floral lift. Bromley Enigma people’s mouths without lemon zest lifting off Great concentration Geelong Semillon telling them what it is,” the nose with toasty Peter Lehmann and balance of candied 2017 HHHH said another. “This is elements underneath. A Wines Margaret fruit flavours. Still Developing toasty an unfashionable but somewhat drying palate Barossa Semillon youthful. $40 aromas underscored by amazing variety if you with great depth of 2014 HHH1/2 Tempus Two Pewter green pea characters give it a chance.” flavour. $35 A subtle toasty green Hunter Valley that follow through onto McGuigan Shortlist bean nose and a richly Semillon the palate with its lime McGuigan Shortlist Hunter Valley textured creamy palate 2014 HHHH1/2 finish. $25 Hunter Valley Semillon with hints of tinned pea A seamlessly balanced Hollydene Estate Semillon 2015 HHHH1/2 characters. $35 semillon that is drinking Upper Hunter Valley 2018 HHHHH Reserved floral bouquet beautifully now. The Semillon Lovely zippy fresh and a long, rich and SEMILLON & minerally green fruit 2014 HHHH citrus nose just starting intensely flavoured BLENDS is layered with a Toasty development on to show some toasty palate tasting of honey $40 + complexity of buttery the honeyed pear nose development and a and orange blossom. toasty age. $40 with nice secondary very lively palate with Still very fresh for a five- 12 TASTED Tempus Two Uno characters evolving on excellent depth of pure year old. $30 12 AWARDED Hunter Valley the creamy palate. $27 minerally lemon varietal McGuigan Shortlist Semillon McGuigan Bin fruit flavours. $30 Hunter Valley “An absolute pleasure to 2014 HHHH1/2 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon judge these,” enthused A silky smooth creamy Semillon McGuigan Shortlist 2014 HHHH1/2 one judge. Another great wine that is ageing 2019 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Toasty aromatics range of consistent high- brilliantly. A lovely zesty Hints of lime zest Semillon with lemon curd-like quality wines that are combination of lemon characters on the nose 2013 HHHHH characters and a greatly underrated. oil and limes with with a long lingering “An outstanding wine,” beautiful complex some subtle green pea lemon/lime palate and according to one judge. butterball of a palate that Tempus Two Uno notes and good level of slight “prickly” acid. $25 Still amazingly youthful is still showing plenty of Hunter Valley acid. $75 Hollydene Estate with toasty maturity life. “A classy wine.” $30 Semillon Upper Hunter Valley on the lemon butter 2016 HHHHH Semillon 2019 HHH nose and a beautifully Subtle aromas of Fresh floral lemon balanced palate that’s limes and lemons bouquet and very all honey, toast and with a toasty nuance intense ripe citrus driven butter. $30 developing. The palate flavours. $24 still showing a vibrancy Paulett Wines McGuigan Shortlist of citrus-like varietal fruit Watervale Clare Hunter Valley with some toastiness Valley Semillon Semillon pushing through. $75 2019 HHH 2019 HHHH1/2 Flinty citrus aromas with An elegant lemon Tempus Two Pewter a slightly fuller, sweeter, scented wine with a Hunter Valley style of palate showing lifted citrus and green Semillon quality fruit. $25 apple bouquet showing 2017 HHHH1/2 a minerally edge. The A lovely wine currently citrus palate has great “in transit” according length and depth with to one judge. Reserved lovely racy acidity. $30 buttery nose and delicately structured palate with a mouth- watering line of flavours. $40 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 77

SEMILLON & BLENDS Tempus Two Pewter McGuigan Bin STAR RATINGS  Hunter Valley 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon Semillon Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2013 HHHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. An elegant style that Great toasty intensity All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry is ageing perfectly. The on the nose with a very professionals and are compared in peer pure, classy, lemon good depth of flavour. classes by three judges. and lime-like varietal “A nice wine,” noted one CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, fruit is just starting to judge. $50 a major mail-order business. show an edge of toasty Château Tanunda CD Cellar door price. maturity. $40 150-Year-Old Vines CDO Cellar door only. Tempus Two Pewter Barossa Semillon SO Sold out. Hunter Valley 2019 HHH $N/A Price not available at time of printing. Semillon Looking quite advanced  Contact information pg 112-113. 2018 HHHH for a 2019 with Heady fragrances of honeyed lemon aromas RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). pungent peas with hints and a richly textured BEST VALUE for $20 & under of limes. The textured palate. $60 and NZ $25 & under. palate is a concentration For a complete list of what we tasted of crisp lime and lemon please refer to www.winestate.com.au flavours. $40 Briar Ridge Vineyard Tempus Two Pewter 'Dairy Hill' Single Hunter Valley Vineyard 'Museum Semillon Release' Hunter 2019 HHH1/2 Valley Semillon A delightfully zesty 2014 HHHH1/2 wine, still a baby, with A buttery bouquet with good length and depth toasty complexity and of lemon sherbet-like a very long, savoury fruit characters. $40 and most satisfying creamy palate that still has plenty of life in it. A charming wine. $80 BeSeen Advertising owns and operates a fleet of Out-Of-Home advertising screens in the Central Adelaide area. With the primary focus on the Asian community, we have digital LED billboards oversee landmark locations including Central Market Plaza and Chinatown Moonta street. Smaller sized digital panels and lightboxes are also deployed in front of Asian grocery and food courts throughout the region. Bring your brand to the heart of Adelaide, reach large and diverse public audiences. BeSeen Advertising is your ultimate local campaigner! ph: 1300 983 528 email: [email protected] www.beseenadvertising.com.au 78 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 79

126 TASTED 104 AWARDED ROSÉ An excellent roll up for this popular wine style. It has been a long De Bortoli King ME by Matahiwi time coming but we have always said that our climate is most Valley Rose Rosé Estate Wairarapa conducive to the bright and breezy style that rosé can produce. 2020 HHHH Rosé 2020 HHHH The trend fortunately has moved to drier styles rather than the A funky complexity Overt bright pink wine confusing array of various levels of sugary wines of the past. And of aromas with good with confectionery it is great to see winemakers producing rosé as a designated style weighty upfront red blackberry fragrances rather than an afterthought. berry fruit flavours on and nice combination of the long and rich palate. sweetness, jubey fruit $18 and acid. $19.99 NZ The Vegan Wine ROSÉ Giesen Blush Project South UNDER $20 Marlborough Australia Rosé Sauvignon Blanc 2019 HHHH 29 TASTED 2019 HHHH1/2 A potpourri of a nose. Spicy and floral on Good minerality on 23 AWARDED the nose with a slight the palate with nice leafy green edge. Very savoury fruit in the attractive red berry middle and a decent palate that is soft and long finish. $16 textured in the mouth Some good results with a great steely edge. $16.99 here for the price. The 2020s were a touch above the 19s because of freshness however De Bortoli Sacred Hill Riverina Rosé there were good 2019s 2020 HHHH Shy red fruit fragrances with age development a with a pretty floral lift. Pleasant savoury, green factor. “There has been berry, fruit flavours. Ricca Terra 22° Lovely line of acid. Halo Riverland SA a lot of work with rosé $7.50 Mataro Aglianico Andrew Peace Vermentino Rosé lately as a designated Wines Masterpeace 2020 HHHH Victoria Rosé Rusty pink wine style rather than an 2020 HHHH smelling of crushed Pink and pretty with an strawberries with great after thought as was the estery bouquet and a drive of savoury red fruit lightweight red berry on the soft lightweight case in the past,” said The Ned palate with some well palate. $18 Leefield Station one judge. A comment Marlborough Rosé managed phenolics. Toi Toi Sara's New from a winemaker, 2020 HHHH1/2 Enjoyable! $13 Zealand Rosé “don’t pick too green!” Very pretty rose Berton Vineyards 2020 HHHH petal bouquet with Metal Label Riverina Subtle herbaceous a raspberry lift. Has Rosé 2020 HHHH bouquet with hints Marlborough VBBAEULSYUTSE lots of red berry An aromatic complexity of rose petals. Nice Pinot Noir Rosé fruit flavours on the of strawberries and stonefruit flavour profile 2019 HHHH seamlessly balanced cream and rose petals. with well managed Confectionery green palate with nice level Nicely structured sweet sweetness. $18 berry bouquet with of tannins and mineral green berry palate with chalky tannins on the acidity. $18.99 a savoury end. $13 palate, some savoury development and “Perfect phenolics!” $19.99 80 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting La Vue Victoria Purato Terre Peter Lehmann Grenache Rosé Siciliane IGP Sicily Wines Portrait 2020 HHH1/2 Rosé 2019 HHH Barossa Valley Cherry nose with a floral Spicy floral nose with Grenache Rosé lift. Lightweight palate, some aged berry notes 2019 HHHHH stunning texture and and nice chalky textured Gorgeous creamy style structure and tasting fruit palate. $18 with a great mineral tropical. $18.99 thread. Apples and Map Maker wildflowers on the Oakover Marlborough Rosé nose and great upfront Wines Western 2019 HHH red fruit flavours with Australia Rosé VBBAEULSYUTSE Red apple bouquet with well managed savoury a spicy element. Soft elements. $20 2020 HHH1/2 in the mouth with good Chateau Yaldara Nose is a freshness of red berry fruit weight. Rosé 2020 HHHH1/2 rose petals and spices $19 Rose gold hues with with fleshy fruit on the aromas of candied fruits mid-palate and slight Music Bay Hawkes and spices and a lighter spritzig note. $16 Bay Rosé 2019 HHH more savoury palate Interesting anise-like with good fruit weight, a Kooyonga Creek notes on the floral nose The King's Desire Ricca Terra Colours chalky structure and nice North East Victoria with fruit flavours in Marlborough Pinot Of Calmness phenolics. $20 Rosé 2018 HHH1/2 the savoury spectrum. Noir Rosé Riverland SA Claymore Wines Aromas of stewed $19.95 2020 HHHHH Negroamaro Mataro Whole Lotta Love cherries and rhubarb. The nose is a tad Rosé 2020 HHHHH Clare Valley Rosé Nicely textured savoury Ara Marlborough pungent and meaty Great nose – quite 2020 HHHH1/2 berry fruit palate. Pinot Rosé with hints of cranberry- pungent with simple Brilliant bright rusty pink Developing nicely. 2019 HHH like fruit and the palate red berry fruit. Fresh wine with candied green $19.95 Nose showing complex exhibits good fruit and crisp in the mouth fruit nose showing a savoury fruit characters density with flavours with great herbaceous/ hint of marshmallow. Greedy Bird and the palate certainly reminiscent of Turkish tropical fruit density and The light flinty red berry Australia Rosé does not disappoint! Delight and red berries. mouthwatering acidity. palate with a slightly NV HHH $19.99 $24.99 $22.50 sweet finish. $22 Spicy savoury nose with Semprevino Rob Dolan True Morialta Trails hints of rose petals and ROSÉ McLaren Vale Colours Yarra Valley Adelaide Hills Pinot creamy fruit flavours $20 - $25 Grenache Rosé Pinot Noir Rosé Rosé 2020 HHHH1/2 with a savoury finish. 2020 HHHHH 2020 HHHHH Pretty salmon pink $12 43 TASTED Pretty salmon pink Dusty pink hues with colour with a pleasant, 31 AWARDED wine with lovely fresh Turkish Delight-like honeyed berry bouquet Scarpantoni Estate expression of perfumed characters on the and a good delivery McLaren Vale Gamay Another strong class of red apple aromas and nose. Nice firm dry of rich fruit flavours Rosé 2020 HHH well-made wines with lots of rich mid-palate palate with lovely across the very Dark crimson wine considerable diversity. fruit sweetness on pomegranate-like textured palate. $22 with a spicy blackberry Wines ranged from the a succulently juicy flavours lingering bouquet and a sweet elegant to those with palate. $22 across the length of fruit bomb of a palate. emphasis on the full the palate. $24 $15 flavoured styles. The best were fresh and Gapsted Wines balanced. Good to see Tobacco Road King the 2019s holding up Valley Sangiovese well, although generally Rosé 2020 HHH rosé is not a style to Very savoury style – full, cellar. rich and textured with berry fruit and a lingering Gilberts Mount finish. $16 Barker Great Southern Rosé Down The Lane Gris 2020 HHHHH De Gris Riverina Lovely blush pink hues Rosé 2019 HHH with very delicate Savoury aromas with rose petal/potpourri leafy green nuances fragrances. The elegant and a light palate with palate has lovely lean some savoury berries. fruit flavours, a mineral $12.95 thread and fresh acidity. $20 Red Knot by Shingleback McLaren Vale & Adelaide Hills Rosé 2019 HHH A mature wine but still showing nice remnants of fresh fruit with a clean finish. $15 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 81

ROSÉ Angas & Bremer Tamburlaine Organic Langhorne Creek Wine Lovers Hunter Sangiovese Rosé Valley Rosé 2020 HHHH 2020 HHHH Bright pink wine with A pretty fusion of a vibrant strawberry floral and strawberry bouquet and good depth aromas and an elegant and length of red berry herbaceous driven flavours with salivating palate with great acid acid. $20 freshness. $22 Chain Of Ponds Turners Crossing Innocence Adelaide Bendigo Rosé Hills Rosé 2019 HHHH 2020 HHHH Developed stewed Pretty rose petal nose strawberry aromas with subtle spiciness. with anise-like notes. Creamy in the mouth According to one judge with good fruit weight, the palate has “Nice zippy acid and savoury everything”. $22 finish. $20 Oxenberry Farm Zonte's Footstep Hahndorf Hill Haselgrove Hannah June Scarlet Ladybird Adelaide Hills Rosé Alternative Series McLaren Vale Fleurieu Rosé 2020 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Grenache Gamay 2020 HHHH1/2 Lively strawberry Grenache Rosé Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 Very subtle rose petal aromas edged with 2020 HHHH1/2 Blackberry pungency bouquet with gentle floral notes – very pretty. Glowing jubey fruit on the nose and in hints of fruit and a long, Excellent fruit weight fragrances with subtle the mouth it is fleshy, pleasant palate with and intensity fills the florals and a fine and confectionery sweet and attractive floral fruit big bright palate that elegant linear palate tropical. $20 elements and a long shows well controlled with a “gentle” texture lingering finish. $22 sweetness. “A serious and supported by the The Grapes of wine.” $24 crisp acidity. $24 Ross Ruby Tuesday Barossa Valley Rosé La Boheme Act 2 La Maschera Watkins Core VBBAEULSYUTSE 2020 HHH1/2 Dry Yarra Valley Barossa Valley Rosé Langhorne Almost fuchsia-like in Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 HHHH1/2 Creek Grenache colour with jubey sweet 2019 HHHH1/2 Nicely aged style but still blackcurrant aromas and A big hit of rose-like showing plenty of pretty a complex and creamy characters lifts off the fruit and great crisp palate. $22 nose and is edged with acidity. Nice florals lift off subtle raspberry notes. the nose and the elegant Blue Pyrenees A seriously classy, soft palate has some solid Estate Bone Dry and flavoursome palate. fruit weight. $23 Pyrenees Rosé “Provence-like.” $21.95 2020 HHH1/2 Sweet tropical fruit Rosé 2020 HHHH nose with a floral Gorgeous sherbet/fairy thread but more of a floss-like bouquet and crisp and savoury style an elegant and creamy of palate. $24 palate with some great acidity and a long finish. Richard Hamilton $20 Gida's McLaren Vale Rosé 2019 HHH1/2 JUDGES Honeyed potpourri bouquet with subdued Chris Coulter Jessica Bloomfield Turkish Delight flavours Chief Winemaker, Chateau Assistant winemaker, on a warm developed Yaldara, 147 Wines. Has Pernod Ricard wines palate. $20 judged at the Barossa for the past four years. wine show. Previously Was dux at the AWAC Emma Walker worked at McGiuigan wine course and has Winemaker for Claymore wines, Coldstream Hills, judged at the Canberra Wines. Has juged in MacForbes, De Bortoli National Wine Show. Has the New England wine and Helens Hill wines. He completed vintages in show and Australian also did a stint with Church Napa Valley, Marlborough Small Winemakers show. Road, New Zealand. and with multiple Completed AWAC in Barossa vintages. 2014, is qualified in wine science/viticulture. Also completed WSET level 2 and 3 in 2014. 82 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Trinity Hill Lost ROSÉ Scion Rutherglen PepperGreen Estate Garden Hawke's Bay $25 - $30 Rosé 2020 HHHHH Berrima Blush Rosé 2019 HHH1/2 A “serious” savoury Southern Highlands Pretty herbaceous nose 31 TASTED rusty salmon pink wine. Rosé 2019 HHHH1/2 with some spices and 29 AWARDED “A keeper,” according to Very well structured with florals. Good green fruit one judge. An alluring excellent concentration concentration and nice “A step up from the delicacy of cranberry of red apple and fresh acid profile. $24.95 NZ previous class,” agreed fruit, good spiciness and raspberry-like fruit Cassegrain Seasons the judges. Great refreshing acidity. $28 characters, some Central Ranges consistency across the savoury elements Hilltops Rosé board “The fruit quality Calneggia Wines and developing some 2020 HHH shows through with Margaret River Rosé maturity. $25 Savoury style with plenty more winemaking craft 2020 HHHH1/2 of fleshy berry fruit and and attention to detail,” Lively savoury red fruit Carillion very subtle residual noted one judge. fragrances and a lovely, Expressions Pinot sweetness. $21.95 elegant and delicate Rosé 2020 HHHH Hamelin Bay Wines palate with great A floral nose with Margaret River Rosé intensity of “honest” an herbaceous edge 2020 HHH fruit flavours and a and lean palate with Pretty rusty pink colour, sweet fruit finish. $25 flavours of quinces and leafy cabernet aromas, Iron House red berries and some big and creamy in the Vineyards Tasmania savoury notes. $25 mouth. Good acidity. $22 Pinot Noir Rosé 2020 HHHH1/2 Ricca Terra Greystone Waipara Rusty Bike The Bright pink with orange Terra do Rio Rosé 2020 HHHH Tricycle Murraylands tints with some well- Riverland SA Touriga A lovely wine – salmon Shiraz Cabernet maintained primary fruit Nacional Tinta pink in colour with a Rosé 2020 HHH characters on the nose Barroca Rosé floral lift to the nose and A slightly closed, slightly and super clean spicy 2020 HHHH1/2 a warming riper style developed berry bouquet varietal flavours with Nose showing of palate with luscious and a sweet, creamy grippy tannins. $25 herbaceous botanical- flavours. $27 and warm palate. $23 Paulett Clare Valley like characters with a Laughing Jack Sangiovese Rosé warm, creamy and spicy Barossa Valley Rosé Otu Hawkes Bay 2020 HHHH1/2 palate. Nice texture, 2020 HHHH Rosé 2020 HHH Gorgeous honeyed some sweetness and a Pungent savoury nose; Nose almost has a tomato cranberry aromas lingering finish. $25 some interesting bush character with a with a savoury note Schwarz Wine Co funkiness. Big, sweet lovely clean savoury style and seamlessly Barossa Valley Rosé flavours with nice of palate. $24 balanced palate with 2020 HHHH1/2 tannin structure. Good decent amount of A closed and quite commercial style. $28 Rogers & Rufus Ellis Wines fruit supported by mature savoury fruit Lobethal Road Barossa Valley Signature Label refreshingly crisp nose with a well- Adelaide Hills Grenache Rosé Single Vineyard acidity. $25 balanced strawberry and Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 HHH Heathcote Rosé cream palate showing a 2019 HHHH Quite a shy nose but 2020 HHHHH touch of sweetness. “A Perfumed red apple has a nicely developing, Bright pink wine textbook style rosé.” $25 bouquet with bright flavoursome, sweet with inviting fruity Estandon florals and a sweet fruit berry fruit palate. $23 floral bouquet and a Brise Maritime palate but has good Tellurian Heathcote lovely mouth-filling Méditerranée IGP grippy acid cutting Rosé 2019 HHH creamy palate offering Rosé 2019 HHHH1/2 through. $25 A clean and creamy a generous core of A developed wine yet Pig In The House rosé with spicy savoury pomegranate and has elegance. It shows Organic Cowra Rosé characters and drying on quince-like flavours. a delicate yet complex 2019 HHHH the finish. $24 Good food wine. $25 palate with characters Developed aged florals Hollydene Estate Jericho Adelaide reminiscent of tomato on the nose with apple JUUL Loaded Fox Hills Rosé bush and green fruit and notes. Green and leafy Upper Hunter Valley 2020 HHHHH textured tannins. $25 on the palate with Rosé 2018 HHH Rose gold in colour with Grampians Estate an attractive savoury Hints of lime bitters lift a delicate rose petal- Drovers' Grampians finish. $25 off the nose with a soft like nose and rich and Rosé 2019 HHHH1/2 Saddler's Creek approachable palate, still creamy in the mouth A stunning wine, great Wines Hunter Valley has some fruit. $22 with plenty of excellent colour, with a super Rosé 2019 HHHH sweet fruit on the musky/floral nose and a Colours bordering on weighty and textured nicely developed, sweet light red with slight leafy palate. $25 and well-structured notes to the red apple/ peaches and cream berry nose. Nice lean palate. “Yummo!” $25 and spicy phenolic style of palate. $29 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 83

ROSÉ Sutton Grange McGuigan Cellar Big Easy Radio Gala Estate Elysian Springs Fairbank Bendigo Select Hunter Valley Drink The Sun Tasmania Pinot Noir Apple Cart Adelaide Central Victoria Rosé 2020 HHH McLaren Vale Rosé Rosé 2020 HHHHH Hills Pinot Rosé Rosé 2019 HHHH Super savoury nose and 2020 HHHHH Pretty strawberries 2020 HHHH1/2 Aromatic bouquet with rounded berry palate Pretty blush pink wine and cream nose with a Creamy and floral on some fruit evident with residual sweetness with refined floral berry floral/rose petal edge. the nose with a savoury and interesting palate and good tannin aromas with subtle Delightful length of touch and great length structure with hints of structure. $25 spiciness and gentle Turkish Delight-like and concentration of savoury fruit. Holding up palate texture with good flavours with balancing red berry fruit flavours well. $27 Leconfield depth and length of red acidity and a crunchy with an excellent line of Charley Rose Geoff La Sevillana berry fruit flavours. $30 apple finish. $32 acid. $30 Merrill Dry Riverland Coonawarra Rosé Mapleton Vineyards Zonte's Footstep Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 2020 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir Sorby Adams Jazz Globe Skimmer Pungent and spicy A strawberry nose with Rosé 2020 HHHHH Eden Valley Pinot Fleurieu Rosé on the nose and a a potpourri note, sweet Pungent herbal bouquet Rosé 2020 HHHHH 2020 HHHH1/2 luscious palate with well red fruit flavours and a with hints of red berries Delicate floral nose with Dark red colour with balanced sweetness. A grippy finish. $26 and attractive red fruit hints of apricots and a a confectionery red well-made wine. $25 flavour profile – dense palate described by one berry/spicy bouquet Lawson's Dry Hills Koonowla Clare and concentrated judge as “very serious” and lovely purity of Pink Marlborough Valley Rosé with some residual with excellent fruit blackcurrant-like flavours Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 2020 HHH sweetness but well quality, good acid and with good oak selection. A red berry bouquet A ripe and lifted berry balanced with acid. $30 nice phenolics. $35 Needs time. $30 showing some nose and a sweet and Pepper Tree Limited Bream Creek pungency with more of creamy palate with Release Coonawarra Vineyard Tasmania the same on the creamy obvious tannins. $28 Rosé 2020 HHHHH Pinot Rosé tannic palate. $25 NZ Lovely salmon pink 2019 HHHHH The Bio Project St Leonards colour with hints Strawberry bouquet by Shingleback Vineyard Rutherglen of stonefruit-like edged with violet- McLaren Vale Rosé 2019 HHH fragrances. Soft and like nuances and big Monastrell Dry Rosé Developed perfumed creamy on the palate generous palate with 2020 HHH1/2 florals and a “yummy” full of delicate spicy “Good everything!” Aromatic and slightly creamy palate with a fruit flavours and gentle Stunning fruit, lovely meaty nose with savoury finish. $28 phenolics. $30 spiciness, some expressive creamy pungency and crisp varietal flavours and a Miceli D Clone acid. $31 hint of sweetness. $25 Mornington Z Wine Aveline Old Peninsula Pinot Vine Barossa Valley Rosé 2018 HHH Rosé 2020 HHH1/2 Savoury floral bouquet Sweet red berry and slightly sweet palate bouquet and soft and but well balanced by the juicy in the mouth with crisp acid. $28 a powerful core of berry flavours. $25 ROSÉ $30+ Fraser Gallop Estate Margaret River Rosé 23 TASTED 2020 HHH1/2 21 AWARDED Pale pink with a pungent floral nose and a good A great line up of concentration and length “serious” rosés. “Here of red berry flavours. $26 we have a good depth Grampians Estate and concentration Drovers' Grampians of fruit matched by Rosé 2020 HHH excellent winemaking Inviting rose petal techniques,” said one fragrances with good judge. “These are intensity of strawberry a great example of and mulberry flavours. consumer friendly, yet $25 complex, wines that are not pushing the envelope to edginess.” These are purposely made rosés unlike in the past. 84 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

varietal tasting Coal Pit Central Estandon Lumière Jack Rabbit Capercaillie Hunter Castagna Allegro Otago Pinot Noir Coteaux Varios En Bellarine Peninsula Valley Sangiovese Biodynamic Rosé 2020 HHHH1/2 Provence Rosé Rosé 2019 HHHH Rosé 2020 HHH Single Vineyard A very well-made 2019 HHHH1/2 Slight green floral Vibrant fluro pink wine Beechworth Rosé wine that is showing a Gorgeous peach fragrances with some with a seamless balance 2018 HHH mélange of fragrances colour with green floral spiciness and good between the sweet fruit Vanilla and stonefruit on the nose with fragrances and a lovely flavour complexity on and crisp acid. $35 bouquet with a savoury/ pungent notes and a soft and creamy palate the creamy palate with a Gippsland Wine minerally palate showing lovely, luscious palate with pleasant leesy crunchy finish. $35 Company Moyarra good fruit length. $34 filled with juicy sweet characters and a drying Domaine Des Féraud Vineyard Gippsland Leura Park Estate fruit flavours. $31 NZ finish. A pretty wine! $40 Cuvée Prestige Cabernet Rosé Bellarine Peninsula Bangor Maria Allandale Hilltops Cotes De Provence 2019 HHH Rosé 2018 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir Rosé 2020 HHHH Rosé 2019 HHHH Spicy citrus nose with Slightly meaty aromas, Rosé 2020 HHHH1/2 Bright floral bouquet A funky and pungent aged notes and a lean flavours in the stonefruit The nose is pungent and good concentration nose and nicely textured mineral palate with lively spectrum and a lively and slightly green with of fruit flavours on the palate starting to show nettle notes. $30 acid line. $35 great floral notes. The well-structured palate some development Leura Park Estate palate is sound and with the sugar and acid but still has fresh fruit Bellarine Peninsula round with flavours like in balance. $30 showing through. $45 Rosé 2019 HHH green strawberries with Cabbage Tree Hill All Saints Estate Pleasant fruit aromas some nice balanced Tasmania Pinot Noir Rosa Rutherglen and a linear palate with sweetness. $36 Rosé 2020 HHHH Rosé 2019 HHH1/2 some development A spicy rose petal of a A lovely softly textured, pushing through. $35 nose with quite a funky lighter, style with lift and luscious Turkish some fruit and some Delight flavours with a development and a pleasant phenolic edge. warming finish. $72 $32 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 85

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN HAWKE'S BAY feature wineries or groups presenting special themed tastings. Hastings Mayor Sandra Hazlehurst said the pop-up was, “a little taste of what we are hoping to achieve in the Municipal Buildings when they open in 2021. A place for our wineries to showcase their wines right in the middle of town — a home for our wines.” Hawke's Bay Winegrowers Association is the official regional wine industry organisation, representing all wineries and growers. RED CENTRE OF NZ POP-UP AND POP IN LUXURY IN THE LAND OF THE LONG WHITE CLOUD HAWKE’S Bay is New Zealand’s red THE pop-up Hawke's Bay Wine Cellar centre with approximately 90% of New Door – which operated in the East Block NOWHERE on earth does luxury lodges with Zealand’s syrah, cabernets and merlots of Hastings from August to November – as much flair as New Zealand. The Kiwis produced within the region. New varieties could be repeated in 2021. The space also seem able to maintain consistently are continually trialled, with a total of 38 showcased Hawke's Bay wines, some of high standards of service across the years. varietals currently being produced. which are not available at cellar doors. The concept was supported by Hastings A case in point is the three properties There is a lot of history for visitors to District Council with a grant from the in the Robertson Lodges portfolio: discover with vines first planted in Hawke’s Covid-19 relief fund complementing Matakauri Lodge in Central Otago, Kauri Bay back in 1851 by French missionaries Hawke's Bay Tourism's Baycation Cliffs in Northland, and the Farm at Cape who established Mission Estate. promotion. Kidnappers in Hawke's Bay. By the early 20th century, Mission Estate, HBWG chairwoman Sally Duncan said Leading global travel magazine Condé Te Mata Estate (1896), Vidal Estate (1905), she was thrilled with support from not Nast Traveler recently announced the McDonalds Winery (1897 – Church Road) only the council but the wider community. results of its 33rd annual Readers’ Choice and Glenvale Winery (1933 – Esk Valley There were more than 30 Hawke's Bay Awards with all three Robertson Lodges Winery) were all established, confirming wineries taking part along with rotating properties recognised in the Best Resorts Hawke’s Bay as a pioneering, innovative in Australia and South Pacific category. wine region. Those pioneers continue to provide inspiration for the current generation Matakauri Lodge was named the of Hawke’s Bay winemakers. For details see https://hawkesbaywine.co.nz/ 86 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

travelbriefs number one lodge in Australia and the of the world, just as soon as we can.” This region is considered one of the South Pacific, with a score of 99.8 out Guests staying at The Farm at Cape hidden jewels of the region. Just a three- of a possible 100. The Lodge at Kauri hour trek along the beautiful Mohaka River Cliffs was named as the number seven Kidnappers can easily explore the brings you to Te Puia Lodge, where you resort in the region and The Farm at Cape Hawke’s Bay wine region - with its will spend the night. There is also great Kidnappers was the number 11 pick. world-class wineries - just beyond the trout fishing fishing here. Farm gates. Add to the offering with the The Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ opportunity to explore unique activities A short walk upstream brings you to the Choice Awards are the longest-running presented within the 6,000-acre property thermal pools. A therapeutic rest and a and most prestigious recognition of – visit the Cape Sanctuary and Gannet dive into the cool Mohaka beside is truly excellence in the travel industry and are Colony, play the world-ranked Cape invigorating! Keen fisherman return via commonly referred to as “the best of the Kidnappers golf course, relax and unwind the river, or there is an alternative trip up best of travel”. at the Spa, and savour the on-site cuisine to Makino Trig and back along the ridge. and wine choices. “We are thrilled that all three Robertson Complete the trip with another soak; Lodges have been recognised alongside Nearly half a million Condé Nast Traveler this time in the Mangatutu Hot Springs such elite company in the Readers’ readers submitted a recording-breaking at Blue Gum car park. See www.afoot. Choice Awards, and we are especially number of responses rating their travel co.nz/suggested-treks/ honoured to see Matakauri Lodge voted experiences to provide a snapshot of number one,” said Jay Robertson, CEO global travel. Top: The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. of Robertson Lodges. Above: Mohaka River. The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, The Farm at Opposite page top left: Exterior of Te Mata Estate. “In what is undoubtedly a challenging Cape Kidnappers and Matakauri Lodge Opposite page bottom left: Hawke's Bay vineyards. year for tourism, 2020 has [also] seen The are all members of Relais & Chateaux. Opposite page bottom right: Hawke's Bay Pop-up. Farm at Cape Kidnappers awarded the #1 Resort in New Zealand/Australia by GET A SPRING IN YOUR STEP Travel + Leisure magazine, so our staff have much to be proud of. CALLING all active visitors to Hawke’s Bay. How about an overnight guided \"They work tirelessly to provide each walk to Mangatanoika Hot Springs and guest with an unforgettable experience, the Kaweka Ranges? and they are eager to showcase these three pristine lodge settings to the rest December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 87

116 TASTED JUDGED BY 115 RECOMMENDED Michael Cooper H AW K E S B AY Winestate’s New Zealand editor is author of the internationally acclaimed Wine Atlas of New Zealand and the annual New Zealand Wines: Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to wine writing. Hawke's Bay, New Zealand’s second-largest wine region, produced Church Road Grand 10% of the country’s wine in 2020. Seen by most wine lovers as a Reserve Hawke's source of consistently impressive chardonnay, merlot-based reds Bay Chardonnay and syrah, the region also produces memorable wines from many 2019 HHHHH other varieties, such as pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and cabernet Still very youthful, sauvignon. this powerful wine was grown mostly Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in the Tuki Tuki Valley in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). and fermented with indigenous yeasts in CHARDONNAY Church Road 1 French oak barrels (30% Single Vineyard Tuki new). Fragrant, with a 27 TASTED Tuki Chardonnay complex, slightly smoky 27 RECOMMENDED 2018 HHHHH bouquet, it has rich, Already very vigorous, stonefruit and A stunning line-up of expressive, this pale toasty oak flavours, youthful wines, all from gold wine was hand- threaded with fresh the warm, humid 2018 picked and fermented acidity, and a lasting season or warm and and matured for 11 finish. Best drinking mid- notably dry 2019 vintage. months in French oak 2022+. $40 (A) Weighty, rich, ripe and casks (21% new). complex, with obvious Fragrant, with a Esk Valley Radburnd Hawke's cellaring potential, many distinct whiff of ‘struck Winemakers Reserve Bay Chardonnay of the wines are high- match’, it is highly Hawke's Bay 2018 HHHHH priced, but the tasting concentrated, with Chardonnay This classy, youthful also uncovered some fresh acidity, lively 2018 HHHHH wine was grown at impressive, great value stonefruit flavours, Full of potential, two sites, in Mangatahi chardonnays in the $20 balanced toasty this single vineyard and Bridge Pa, and price category. oak and impressive wine was hand fermented and matured complexity. Best harvested at Bay for nine months in Askerne The Archer drinking 2022+. $70 View and fermented French oak puncheons Hawke's Bay with indigenous and barriques (partly Chardonnay Black Barn yeasts in French oak new). Bright, light 2018 HHHHH Vineyards Barrel barriques (40% new). yellow/green, with a This powerful, youthful Fermented Hawke's Concentrated, vigorous fragrant, mealy bouquet, wine was fermented Bay Chardonnay and youthful, with a it is mouthfilling, savoury and matured for 11 2019 HHHHH slightly smoky bouquet, and complex, with months in French oak This classy, youthful wine it has concentrated, highly concentrated, barrels (45% new). was hand harvested at ripe stonefruit flavours citrusy, peachy flavours, Bright, light yellow/ Havelock North and in and a tightly structured, seasoned with biscuity green, with a fragrant, the Tuki Tuki Valley and dry, long finish. Open oak, fresh acidity and a slightly smoky bouquet, fermented and matured 2022+. $50 very harmonious, long it is sturdy, with highly for 11 months in oak finish. Best drinking concentrated, peachy, barrels (20% new). 2022+. $85 citrusy flavours, Bright, light yellow/ complex, savoury, rich green, it is fragrant and and long. Best drinking mouthfilling, with strong 2022+. $50 peach and grapefruit flavours, mealy and biscuity notes adding complexity, and a finely poised, lasting finish. Best drinking 2022+. $39 88 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

regional tasting Vidal Legacy Villa Maria Reserve Leveret Estate Hawke's Bay Hawke's Bay Reserve Hawke's Chardonnay Chardonnay Bay Chardonnay 2019 HHHHH 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 Still extremely This highly complex Well worth cellaring, youthful, this wine wine is already very this youthful wine was was hand-harvested approachable. Highly estate-grown in the in the Keltern and fragrant, with a hint of cool, elevated Riverview Kokako vineyards and gunflint, it is mouthfilling Vineyard. Bright, fermented and matured and concentrated, light lemon/green, it for 10 months in with vigorous, ripe is mouthfilling, with French oak barriques. stonefruit flavours, finely vibrant, ripe stonefruit Bright, light lemon/ integrated oak and a flavours, biscuity, green, with a fragrant, very harmonious, long toasty notes adding smoky bouquet, it is finish. Best drinking complexity, fresh acidity, weighty, vigorous and 2022+. $40 and excellent vigour finely structured, with Church Road and concentration. Best intense, well-ripened McDonald Series drinking 2022+. $30 stonefruit flavours, Hawke's Bay biscuity, savoury notes Chardonnay Mills Reef Elspeth adding complexity and 2019 HHHH1/2 Hawke's Bay a long, dry finish. Best Fresh and youthful, Chardonnay drinking 2023+. $60 this mouthfilling, 2019 HHHH1/2 (A, UK) sweet-fruited wine was Past vintages flowed Tony Bish Skeetfield Vidal Soler Hawke's hand-picked, mostly in from the Gimblett Tony Bish Heartwood Hawke's Bay Bay Chardonnay the Tuki Tuki Valley, and Gravels, but this stylish Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2019 HHHHH fermented and matured wine was hand-picked Chardonnay 2018 HHHHH Very harmonious in its for 11 months in French in the cool, elevated 2019 HHHH1/2 From mature vines at infancy, this refined wine oak barrels (19% new). Riverview Vineyard. Still very youthful, this Ohiti, this hand-picked, was grown at three sites Bright, light yellow/ Fermented and matured wine was hand-picked single-vineyard wine (the Keltern, Kokako green, it has generous, for a year in French oak and fermented in was fermented and and Lyons vineyards) ripe stonefruit flavours, casks (32% new), it is French oak barriques. matured for a year in and fermented and toasty and mealy notes mouthfilling, with vibrant, Bright, light yellow/ French oak barriques matured for 10 months adding complexity, peachy, citrusy flavours, green, with a fragrant, (60% new) and egg- in French oak barriques. balanced acidity and showing good delicacy, slightly oaky bouquet, shaped, French oak Light lemon/green, good potential. Best well-integrated oak, it is mouthfilling, with ovums. Pale gold, with a fragrant, slightly drinking 2022+. $27 (A) fresh acidity and a tightly strong, fresh stonefruit it is highly fragrant, smoky bouquet, it Esk Valley Hawke's structured finish. Best flavours, showing good mouthfilling, rich is mouthfilling, with Bay Chardonnay drinking 2022+. $45 concentration, balanced and savoury, with strong, grapefruit- 2018 HHHH1/2 acidity, and very good concentrated, ripe like flavours, finely Bargain-priced, this wine delicacy and length. stonefruit flavours, integrated oak adding was predominantly (92%) Mission Jewelstone Well worth cellaring. toasty oak adding complexity, balanced fermented in French Hawke's Bay $35 (A, UK) complexity, fresh acidity and a long finish. oak barriques. Bright, Chardonnay acidity, a real sense Best drinking 2022+. light yellow/green, with 2018 HHHH1/2 of youthful power and $35 (UK) a complex bouquet, it Made in a bold, upfront Vidal Reserve vigour, and a lasting Villa Maria Platinum is weighty and sweet- style, this wine was Hawke's Bay finish. Best drinking Selection Sur fruited, with vigorous, grown at three sites, Chardonnay 2022+. $60 (A, UK) Lie Hawke's Bay ripe stonefruit and spice partly hand-harvested 2018 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay flavours, oak complexity, and fully barrel- Still unfolding, this 2018 HHHHH slightly smoky notes and fermented (33% new). bargain-priced wine was Offering outstanding a dry finish. Best drinking Pale gold, with a rich fermented and matured value, this very stylish 2021+. $20 (UK) bouquet, it is a powerful, for 10 months in French wine was grown fleshy wine, with deep oak casks (15% new). principally in the Keltern stonefruit and toasty oak Bright, light yellow/ Vineyard, barrel- flavours. Best drinking green, with a slightly fermented and aged ‘sur mid-2021+. $40 smoky fragrance, it is lie’ (on its yeast lees). full-bodied and vibrantly Bright, light yellow/ fruity, with strong, yet green, it has excellent delicate, peachy, citrusy intensity of peachy, flavours, toasty notes citrusy, gently oaked adding complexity, and flavours, fresh acidity a crisp, dry finish. Best and a tightly structured, drinking 2021+. $20 lasting finish. $25 (A, UK) December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 89

H AW K E S B AY Askerne Hawke's Mission Barrique Villa Maria Cellar Church Road Junction Red Card Bay Chardonnay Reserve Hawke's Selection Hawke's McDonald Series Central Hawke's Bay 2019 HHHH Bay Chardonnay Bay Chardonnay Hawke's Bay Pinot Pinot Gris Already very 2019 HHHH 2019 HHH1/2 Gris 2019 HHHHH 2018 HHHH approachable, this Still very youthful, this This youthful, vibrant Pale gold, this powerful, Drinking well now, this mouthfilling, generous highly fragrant wine was wine was fermented sturdy wine was estate powerful, hand-picked wine was fermented and partly barrel-fermented. and matured for 11 grown at Matapiro, wine is aromatic and matured for 10 months Mouthfilling, with months in French oak harvested relatively full-bodied. Bright, in oak barrels (20 per strong, vibrant stonefruit casks (10% new). late with some berry light yellow/green, it is cent new). Bright, light flavours, slightly buttery Full-bodied, it has very shrivel, and fermented weighty, with strong, yellow/green, it is sweet- notes and fresh acidity, good depth of ripe and lees-aged in French peachy, slightly spicy fruited, with fresh acidity it has obvious cellaring stonefruit flavours, oak cuves. It has flavours. Fine value. and strong, peachy, potential; best drinking slightly toasty notes concentrated stonefruit $16 slightly buttery and nutty 2022+. $29 adding considerable and spice flavours, Lime Rock Central flavours, showing good Vidal Estate complexity, and a dry, balanced acidity, hints Hawke's Bay Pinot complexity. Best drinking Hawke's Bay harmonious finish. Best of apricot and honey, Gris 2019 HHHH mid-2021+. $24 Chardonnay drinking mid-2021+. gentle sweetness and Made in a dry style, Church Road 2019 HHHH $18 a rich, very harmonious this wine was hand Hawke's Bay This is an elegant, finish. $27 (A) harvested and Chardonnay fruit-driven style of PINOT GRIS Church Road fermented in a mix of 2019 HHHH chardonnay, fermented Hawke's Bay Pinot tanks and seasoned oak This youthful, great value in tanks and seasoned 10 TASTED Gris 2020 HHHH1/2 barriques. Bright, light wine was fermented and French oak barriques. 10 RECOMMENDED Already delicious, this lemon/green, it is fresh aged for 11 months in Bright, light lemon/ Alsace-style wine was and full-bodied, with ripe French and Hungarian oak green, it is fresh and Hawke's Bay’s pinot gris estate grown at Matapiro pear, lychee and spice casks (35% new). Bright, full-bodied, with vibrant, are typically attractively and harvested late, with flavours, balanced acidity light yellow/green, with a peachy, citrusy flavours, scented and full-bodied, some berry shrivel. Sturdy and a smooth finish. fragrant, savoury bouquet, showing a distinct touch ranging in style from dry (14.5% alc/vol), it is fleshy, Best drinking 2021+. it is full-bodied, fresh of complexity, and lots of or dryish to distinctly with good intensity of $24 and dry, with generous, youthful impact. Already medium. Some of the vibrant pear, lychee and Vidal Reserve ripe stonefruit flavours enjoyable. $16 (A) top scoring wines were spice flavours, a slightly Hawke's Bay Pinot and biscuity oak adding Baby Doll Hawke's strikingly similar to the sweet, harmonious finish Gris 2019 HHHH complexity. Best drinking Bay Chardonnay classic, fleshy pinot gris and a ripely scented Showing good intensity, mid-2021+. $20 (A) 2019 HHH1/2 of Alsace. bouquet. Best drinking this single vineyard wine Junction Corner Enjoyable young, this is 2022+. $20 (A) was matured for 10 Post Central a lively, fruit-driven style, Esk Valley Hawke's Askerne Hawke's months on its yeast lees Hawke's Bay with good depth of ripe Bay Pinot Gris Bay Pinot Gris in tanks. Full-bodied, it Chardonnay stonefruit flavours, a 2019 HHHHH 2019 HHHH has vibrant pear, peach 2018 HHHH hint of toastiness and How’s this for a Still unfolding, this and spice flavours, This lively, youthful a rounded, creamy- bargain? Pale straw, youthful wine was attractive delicacy, and wine was hand-picked smooth finish. (From this delicious, partly mostly handled in tanks; a dryish, lengthy finish. and fermented and Yealands.) $18 barrel-fermented wine is 12.5% of the blend was Best drinking mid- matured for 18 months Mission Hawke's fragrant and fleshy, with barrel-fermented and 2021+. $20 in French oak casks Bay Chardonnay generous pear, lychee briefly oak aged. Bright, Falconhead Hawke's (45% new). Bright, light 2019 HHH1/2 and spice flavours, a light lemon/green, it is Bay Pinot Gris yellow/green, with a Enjoyable young, this is slightly oily texture and weighty and fleshy, with 2020 HHH1/2 citrusy, biscuity, slightly a fruit driven chardonnay a long, dryish finish. strong, ripe, pear-like Enjoyable young, this is buttery bouquet, it is style, fresh and full- Showing excellent flavours, gentle spicy a full-bodied, dry wine, mouthfilling, with crisp, bodied, with ripe, weight, vibrancy, notes and a dryish gewürztraminer-like, vibrant, grapefruit-like peachy, citrusy flavours complexity and harmony, finish. Best drinking mid- with fresh acidity and flavours that linger well. to the fore, gentle it’s a great all-purpose 2021+. $23 generous, peachy, well Best drinking mid- biscuity notes, balanced wine. Drink now or Church Road Gwen spiced flavours. Priced 2021+. $29 acidity and very good cellar. $20 (UK) Hawke's Bay Pinot sharply. $16 Leveret Estate depth. Priced sharply. Gris 2019 HHHH Stables Ngatarawa Hawke's Bay $16 Aiming for a ‘dry, Reserve Hawke's Chardonnay mineral style’, this lively Bay Pinot Gris 2019 HHHH wine was estate grown 2019 HHH Offering good value, this at Matapiro and hand- This pale straw wine is attractive young wine picked relatively early. fresh and mouthfilling, was estate grown in the Medium to full-bodied, with plenty of peachy, cool, elevated Riverview it has fresh acidity and spicy flavour. Slightly Vineyard. Mouthfilling and good concentration of gewürztraminer-like, vibrantly fruity, it has ripe peachy, slightly spicy with an off-dry finish, it’s stonefruit flavours, gently flavours. Best drinking enjoyable young. $16 seasoned with toasty 2021+. $27 oak, fresh acidity and considerable complexity. Finely balanced, it’s already enjoyable, but best cellared to mid- 2021+. $22 90 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

regional tasting VIOGNIER Askerne Hawke's Church Road Church Road Black Barn Single Bay Gewürztraminer Grand Reserve McDonald Series Vineyard Hawke's 2 TASTED 2019 HHHH1/2 Hawke's Bay Barrel Fermented Bay Riesling 2 RECOMMENDED Delicious young, this Barrel Fermented Hawke's Bay 2019 HHHH1/2 light lemon/green Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Unfolding well, this Church Road wine is an off-dry 2019 HHHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 ‘Mosel style’ wine McDonald Series style, perfumed and Full of personality, this This is a weighty, was harvested from Hawke's Bay mouthfilling, with oak-aged wine is already complex, non- 25-year-old vines at Viognier peach, lychee and spice delicious. Estate-grown herbaceous style of Havelock North. Light- 2018 HHHH1/2 flavours, fresh and rich, mostly in the Redstone sauvignon blanc, partly bodied (8.5% alc/vol), This pale gold, fleshy a hint of ginger, gentle Vineyard, in the Bridge fermented (33%) with it is vivacious, with a wine was estate acidity and a long, Pa Triangle, with some indigenous yeasts in old delicious interplay of grown in the Redstone spicy, well-rounded fruit from Matapiro, it oak barriques. Bright, sweetness and acidity, Vineyard, in the Bridge finish. $24 was hand-harvested light yellow/green, it very good intensity of Pa Triangle, and matured and fermented with is mouthfilling, with citrusy, appley flavours, for 10 months in French Askerne Reserve indigenous yeasts in youthful, ripe, tropical and complex, bottle- oak barrels (25% Hawke's Bay French oak barrels (20% fruit flavours, integrated aged notes starting to new). Full-bodied and Gewürztraminer new). Bright, light yellow/ oak, fresh acidity and emerge. $39 sweet fruited, it has 2019 HHHH1/2 green, it is mouthfilling, obvious potential. Best Junction Runaway ripe, peachy, slightly Exotically perfumed, this with concentrated, ripe, drinking mid-2021+. $27 Central Hawke's Bay spicy flavours, gently powerful, very youthful tropical fruit flavours, Riesling 2018 HHHH seasoned with oak, very wine was handled fresh and vigorous, Junction Red Card Hand-harvested on the good complexity and a entirely in tanks. Bright, slightly toasty notes, Central Hawke's Bay Takapau Plains, this dry, smooth finish. Drink light lemon/green, it is balanced acidity, and Sauvignon Blanc bright, light, lemon/green now or cellar. $27 a mouthfilling, distinctly excellent depth and 2019 HHH1/2 wine is scented and medium style, with complexity. Best drinking Priced right, this hand- lively. Medium-bodied, Askerne Hawke's strong, finely balanced 2022+. $40 picked wine was grown it has good intensity of Bay Viognier peach, pear and spice Askerne Hawke's on the Takapau Plains. citrusy, limey flavours 2019 HHHH flavours and a lengthy, Bay Sauvignon Freshly aromatic, and a crisp, medium-dry Well worth cellaring, this well-spiced finish. Best Blanc 2019 HHHH1/2 with tropical fruit and finish. Best drinking mid- wine was hand-picked drinking 2022+. $30 Here’s proof that herbaceous flavours, crisp 2021+. $22 and fermented in French Hawke's Bay can make and zingy, and a smooth Mission Hawke's oak casks (20 per cent Mission Estate delicious sauvignon finish, it has lots of Bay Riesling new). Pale lemon/green, Hawke's Bay blanc. A distinctive youthful impact. $16 2019 HHH1/2 it is full-bodied, fresh and Gewürztraminer wine, it is fleshy and This lively, medium- lively, with youthful, ripe, 2020 HHH1/2 lively, with concentrated RIESLING bodied wine has good peachy, slightly spicy Enjoyable young, this passionfruit/lime depth of citrusy, slightly flavours, gently seasoned weighty, softly textured flavours, a touch of 3 TASTED appley flavours, a sliver with oak. Best drinking wine has a perfumed complexity, and a finely 3 RECOMMENDED of sweetness, fresh mid-2021+. $24 bouquet and moderately balanced, dry, lasting but not high acidity, and rich stonefruit and spice finish. $20 (UK) very good vigour and GEWURZTRAMINER flavours, slightly sweet Askerne Hawke's harmony. Best drinking and smooth. Good value. Bay Sauvignon 2022+. $16 3 TASTED $16 Blanc Semillon 3 RECOMMENDED Sauvignon Gris SAUVIGNON 2019 HHHH1/2 A small class, but BLANC Still youthful, this it proved Hawke's characterful wine is Bay’s ability to 5 TASTED a blend of sauvignon produce weighty, rich 5 RECOMMENDED blanc (77%), semillon gewürztraminers, full of (13%) and sauvignon personality. Grown in Hawke's Bay’s gris (10%). Although ‘intermediate’ (rather mostly handled in tanks, than cool) viticultural 40% was fermented climate, sauvignon and matured for eight blanc yields sturdy, months in oak barrels non-herbaceous, ripely (21% new). Bright, light flavoured wines that lemon/green, it is ripely suit fermentation fragrant, full-bodied and and maturation in sweet-fruited, with rich oak barrels, creating tropical fruit flavours weighty, complex wines, and finely integrated reminiscent of white oak adding complexity. Bordeaux. Best drinking mid- 2021+. $24 (UK) December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 91

H AW K E S B AY OTHER Askerne Church Road Church Road 1 Askerne Reserve WHITES Late Harvest Hawke's Bay Blanc Single Vineyard Hawke's Bay Merlot Hawke's Bay de Blancs Méthode Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2 TASTED Gewürztraminer Traditionnelle Merlot 2016 HHHHH Cabernet Franc 2 RECOMMENDED 2019 2016 HHHH1/2 Still youthful, this 2019 HHHH1/2 (375ml) HHHHH This vivacious bubbly fragrant, lush, supple Still extremely youthful, Esk Valley Already delicious, this was made from red was matured for 18 this is a blend of Winemakers Reserve gold/amber wine has chardonnay, hand-picked months in French oak principally merlot Hawke's Bay Chenin an inviting, honeyed at Haumoana, bottle barriques (54% new). (43%) and cabernet Blanc 2019 HHHHH fragrance. Weighty fermented and lees aged Deeply coloured, it is sauvignon (31%), with Already delicious, but and rich, it has highly for four years. Bright, mouthfilling, vibrant smaller amounts of also very ageworthy, concentrated, peachy, light yellow/green, with and supple, with highly cabernet franc and this single vineyard wine spicy flavours, enriched a nutty, yeasty fragrance, concentrated plum malbec. Matured for 10 was hand-harvested at but not swamped by it has strong, vibrant, and spice flavours, a months in oak barrels Maraekakaho, fermented botrytis, finely balanced citrusy, biscuity flavours, hint of liquorice, well- (47% new), it is deeply in tanks and large acidity, an oily texture showing excellent integrated oak and a coloured, full-bodied French oak casks, and and a sweet, seductively complexity, and an rich, seductively smooth and savoury, with matured for 10 months smooth finish. $24 appetisingly fresh, crisp, finish. Best drinking strong, ripe, plummy, on its yeast lees. Bright, dry finish. $40 2023+. $90 spicy, slightly nutty light lemon/green, it Askerne Noble Church Road flavours, showing good is full-bodied, with Hawke's Bay Leveret IQ Premium Grand Reserve complexity, fresh acidity vibrant, ripe, tropical Semillon 2017 Brut NV HHHH Hawke's Bay Merlot and a rich, smooth fruit flavours, showing (375ml) HHHHH This fragrant, fresh Cabernet Sauvignon finish. Best drinking impressive complexity, Powerful, this is a and lively Hawke's Bay 2016 HHHHH 2023+. $33 a sliver of sweetness, sweet but not super bubbly is a blend of This powerful, yet Church Road balanced acidity and a sweet wine, estate pinot noir, chardonnay very approachable, red Hawke's Bay Merlot very harmonious, lasting grown, hand-picked and and pinot meunier, is a blend of merlot Cabernet Sauvignon finish. $35 fermented and matured disgorged after a (74%) and cabernet 2018 HHHH1/2 for 20 months in oak minimum of 18 months sauvignon (26%), Surprisingly complex Lime Rock Central barrels (25% new). Gold/ on its yeast lees. Bright, grown in the Gimblett for its price, this blend Hawke's Bay Grüner amber, it is mouthfilling light yellow, it has Gravels (mostly) and the of merlot (92%) and Veltliner and complex, with citrusy, biscuity, gently Bridge Pa Triangle, and cabernet sauvignon 2019 HHHHH concentrated peach, yeasty flavours, showing matured for 18 months (8%) was estate This rare wine (70 cases) apricot and honey good complexity, and in French oak barrels grown principally in the is full of personality. aromas and flavours, a crisp, finely balanced (41% new). It has bold, Redstone Vineyard, in Hand-harvested and lively acidity and a rich, finish. $22 youthful colour, lush, the Bridge Pa Triangle, partly barrel-fermented, oily texture. Delicious concentrated plum, and matured for a it is aromatic and drinking right now. $33 ROSÉ blackcurrant and spice year in Hungarian and weighty, with fresh, flavours, revealing French oak casks (35% intense, citrusy, spicy Church Road 1 TASTED impressive complexity, new). Deeply coloured, flavours, slightly toasty Grand Reserve 0 RECOMMENDED and supple tannins. Best it is full-bodied and notes, lively acidity and Hawke's Bay Noble drinking 2023+. $45 (A) sweet-fruited, with a lasting, dry finish. Best Pinot Gris 2018 MERLOT & Church Road very good density of drinking 2021+. $39 (375ml) HHHHH BLENDS McDonald Series plum, blackcurrant and This delicious, distinctive Hawke's Bay Merlot spice flavours, nutty, SWEET wine was hand-picked at 20 TASTED 2016 HHHHH well-structured and very WHITES Matapiro, and fermented 20 RECOMMENDED This rich, savoury, ageworthy. $20 (A) and lees matured for smooth red is still Esk Valley Gimblett 3 TASTED nine months in French Merlot is by far the most unfolding. Merlot-based Gravels Hawke's 3 RECOMMENDED and Hungarian oak extensively planted red (92%), with a splash Bay Merlot Cabernet barrels (50% new). wine variety in Hawke's of cabernet sauvignon Sauvignon Malbec A small but classy line- Golden and robust (15% Bay, and the tasting (8%), it was grown in 2018 HHHH1/2 up, revealing Hawke's alc/vol), it has beautifully showed why. Powerful, the Bridge Pa Triangle Bargain priced, this is Bay’s ability to produce ripe, peachy, spicy, but not heavy, the top (mostly) and the a full-coloured blend of lush, botrytised dessert gently honeyed flavours, wines were deliciously Gimblett Gravels and merlot (49%), cabernet wines from several balanced acidity, a rich and savoury, and matured for 18 months sauvignon (33%), malbec varieties, including slightly oily richness, and some of the $20 reds in Hungarian and French (16%) and a splash of gewürztraminer, notable complexity and offer terrific value. oak barrels (28% new). cabernet franc, aged semillon and pinot gris. harmony. $30 Deep and youthful in for a year in French colour, it is fragrant and oak barriques. Already SPARKLING full-bodied, with dense, highly approachable, ripe plum, blackcurrant it is mouthfilling, with 2 TASTED and spice flavours, generous, ripe, berryish, 2 RECOMMENDED finely integrated oak, spicy flavours, showing and a very harmonious, excellent complexity. Best lingering finish. Best drinking 2022. $20 drinking 2022+. $28 (A) (UK, US) 92 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

regional tasting Leveret Estate Squawking Delta Hawke's Bay Saint Clair Origin Mission Hawke's Reserve Hawke's Magpie The Nest Merlot 2019 HHHH Hawke's Bay Merlot Bay Merlot Bay Merlot Cabernet Gimblett Gravels Matured in tanks and 2018 HHHH 2019 HHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 Hawke's Bay Merlot seasoned French oak Grown in the Gimblett Bargain priced, this Still youthful, this is 2014 HHHH1/2 casks, this youthful, Gravels, this is a youthful is a sturdy, generous a deeply coloured, This sturdy, surprisingly deeply coloured red is red, full-coloured, with wine, matured in tanks mouthfilling red with youthful red is a single fresh, full-bodied and mouthfilling body and to highlight its vibrant, fresh, concentrated vineyard blend of merlot vibrantly fruity, with good concentration of ripe fruit flavours of blackcurrant, plum (86%), malbec (10%) good density of ripe, ripe, berryish, spicy blackcurrants, plums and spice flavours, and cabernet franc (4%), plummy, spicy flavours flavours. A well- and spices, which show finely structured and matured for 20 months and fine-grained, supple structured, ageworthy very good depth. Deeply sustained. Best drinking in French oak casks tannins. $20 wine, it should break coloured, it offers fine 2022+. $30 (33% new). It has a Leveret Estate into full stride 2022+. value. $16 Mills Reef bold, bright colour and a Hawke's Bay $25 (UK) Elspeth Gimblett fragrant, fresh bouquet, Merlot Cabernet Vidal Hawke's Bay SYRAH Gravels Merlot with a hint of herbs. 2018 HHHH Merlot Cabernet 2016 HHHH1/2 Mouthfilling, with vibrant Offering good value, this Sauvignon 18 TASTED This medium to full- plum and blackcurrant is a sturdy, full-coloured 2018 HHHH 18 RECOMMENDED bodied red was hand- flavours, showing red with strong, ripe Skilfully crafted for early picked in the Mere Road considerable complexity, berry, plum and spice enjoyment, this is a Syrah has flourished Vineyard and matured it’s well worth cellaring flavours, savoury notes blend of merlot (70%) in Hawke's Bay over for 17 months in French to 2022 onwards. $50 adding complexity and and cabernet sauvignon the past decade, oak casks (34% new). Askerne Hawke's finely balanced tannins. (28%), with splashes yielding vibrant, flavour Sweet-fruited, it has Bay Merlot Cabernet Already drinking well, it’s of malbec and cabernet packed reds with strong blackcurrant, Franc Malbec also well worth cellaring. franc. Partly matured in clearly delineated plum and spice flavours, 2018 HHHH $22 seasoned French oak varietal characters and with savoury oak Drinking well in its Mills Reef Reserve barrels, it is full-coloured, an enticing perfume. adding complexity, and youth, this is a blend of Gimblett Gravels mouthfilling and sweet- The tasting unearthed a smooth finish. Still principally merlot (34%), Hawke's Bay Merlot fruited, with very good several wines in the $20 developing, it’s a good cabernet franc (28%) 2018 HHHH depth of plum, berry and to $30 category that but not great vintage of and malbec (28%), Still fresh and youthful, spice flavours and ripe, offer delicious drinking this label. $50 with minor amounts of this vibrant red was supple tannins. Drink and great value. Saint Clair cabernet sauvignon and hand-picked and now-2022. $16 (A) Pioneer Block 17 petit verdot. Matured matured for a year in Villa Maria Cellar Church Road 1 Plateau Gimblett for over a year in oak French oak casks (25% Selection Hawke's Single Vineyard Gravels Merlot barrels (43% new), it new). Deeply coloured, Bay Merlot Cabernet Gimblett Gravels 2018 HHHH1/2 is full-coloured, fleshy it is full-bodied, with Sauvignon Syrah 2017 HHHHH This deeply coloured, and sweet-fruited, with strong red berry, plum 2018 HHHH This very graceful, vibrant, single vineyard generous red berry, and spice flavours, a hint Priced sharply, this supple red was matured red was matured for plum and spice flavours, of herbs, finely balanced generous red is a blend for 18 months in French 10 months in French oak complexity and a tannins and a fragrant of merlot (63%) and oak barriques (41% oak casks (33% new). smooth, harmonious bouquet. Best drinking cabernet sauvignon new). From a vintage Fleshy and full-bodied, finish. $24 2022+. $25 (25%), with smaller that yielded no syrah it has concentrated, Pask Small Batch amounts of malbec and under the prestige Tom ripe, plummy, spicy, Trilliant 2016 HHHH cabernet franc. Matured label, it’s a beautiful nutty flavours, showing Still fresh and youthful, for a year in French, young red, full-coloured good freshness and this blend of merlot American and Hungarian and floral, with intense complexity, and a (52%), malbec (28%) oak barriques, it is deeply plum and spice flavours, smooth finish. Well and cabernet sauvignon coloured and full-bodied, a hint of liquorice, worth cellaring. $38 (UK) (20%) was grown in with strong blackcurrant, savoury and nutty notes the Gimblett Gravels. plum, herb and spice adding complexity, Matured for 14 months flavours, finely balanced and silky tannins. Best in American oak casks tannins and obvious drinking 2022+. $90 (50% new), it has a potential. Best drinking fragrant, spicy bouquet, 2022+. $18 (US) leading into a medium Lake Chalice The to full-bodied wine with Falcon Hawke's Bay lively acidity, satisfying Merlot 2019 HHH1/2 depth of blackcurrant, Priced right, this is a full- plum, herb and nutty oak coloured, mouthfilling, flavours, and a smooth youthful red with ripe, finish. Best drinking plummy, spicy, slightly 2022+. $35 nutty flavours, fresh acidity and very good depth. Best drinking 2021+. $19 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 93

H AW K E S B AY Church Road Grand Villa Maria Reserve Church Road Askerne Hawke's Vidal Reserve Reserve Hawke's Gimblett Gravels McDonald Series Bay Syrah Gimblett Gravels Bay Syrah Hawke's Bay Syrah Hawke's Bay Syrah 2018 HHHH Hawke's Bay Syrah 2018 HHHHH 2018 HHHHH 2019 HHHH1/2 Highly approachable 2018 HHHH Full of potential, this This classy red was Already delicious, this in its youth, but also Bright ruby, this vibrant deeply coloured, finely estate grown at two floral, spicy red was worth cellaring, this red was grown at two structured red was sites and matured for grown in the Gimblett mouthfilling, sweet- sites and matured for estate grown principally a year in French oak Gravels (principally) and fruited red was matured a year in French oak in the Redstone barriques (30% new). the Bridge Pa Triangle and for over a year in French barrels (14% new). A Vineyard, in the Bridge Deeply coloured, with matured for 18 months oak casks (38% new). refined, medium-bodied Pa Triangle, but also in a fragrant bouquet of in French and Hungarian Full-coloured, it has wine, it has plummy, the Gimblett Gravels, spices and liquorice, it is oak barrels (22% new). generous, ripe, berryish, spicy, slightly peppery and matured for 20 mouthfilling and clearly Deeply coloured, it is spicy flavours, with flavours, showing months in French and varietal, with dense fragrant, mouthfilling, finely integrated oak good complexity, finely Hungarian oak barrels plum and spice flavours, rich and supple, with adding complexity and balanced tannins and (33% new). Mouthfilling, complex and savoury, deep plum/spice flavours, a supple, well-rounded a lingering finish. Best concentrated and and a well-structured, oak complexity and a finish. $24 drinking mid-2021+. $25 complex, it has deep, lingering finish. Best very harmonious, softly Lake Chalice The (A, UK) ripe plum, spice and drinking 2023+. $70 textured finish. Best Raptor Hawke's Bay Vidal Soler Gimblett black pepper flavours, Black Barn drinking 2022+. $28 (A) Syrah 2019 HHHH Gravels Hawke's Bay fresh acidity and fairly Vineyards Hawke's Esk Valley This very youthful Syrah 2018 HHHH firm tannins. Best Bay Syrah Hawke's Bay Syrah red was grown in the Still unfolding, this drinking 2023+. $45 2019 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH1/2 Gimblett Gravels and single vineyard red was Squawking Magpie Already enjoyable, but Delicious young, this partly barrel aged. matured for 20 months Gimblett Gravels well worth cellaring, this vibrant, supple red was Full-coloured, with a in French oak barriques. Hawke's Bay Stoned deep ruby red was hand- harvested from mature fresh, strong, peppery Full-coloured, it is vibrant Crow Syrah picked at Havelock North. vines and matured for bouquet, it is full-bodied and supple, in a youthful, 2014 HHHHH Fresh, full-bodied and over a year in French and vibrantly fruity, with medium-bodied style Combining power supple, it has generous, oak puncheons and a slightly earthy streak with plum, spice and and grace, this dark, ripe plum and spice barriques (15% new). and good intensity of black pepper flavours single vineyard red was flavours, savoury notes Full-coloured, it is plum, spice and black showing excellent depth. hand-harvested and adding complexity and medium to full-bodied, pepper flavours. Best Strongly varietal, with matured for 20 months obvious potential. Best with concentrated, ripe, drinking 2022+. $23 fresh acidity, it’s worth in French oak barrels drinking 2022+. $39 plummy, spicy flavours, Stables Ngatarawa cellaring to 2022+. $35 (33% new). Fragrant showing good complexity, Reserve Hawke's Church Road and finely textured, with and a very harmonious, Bay Syrah Hawke's Bay Syrah blackcurrant, plum and lingering finish. (UK) $25 2019 HHHH 2018 HHHH spice flavours, a hint Junction Offside This is a great buy. Oak- Enjoyable young, this of liquorice, and ripe, Central Hawke's Bay aged for 10 months, it is deep ruby red is fresh, supple tannins, it’s a Syrah full-coloured, very fresh, medium to full-bodied, vigorous, concentrated 2019 HHHH1/2 vibrant and supple, with savoury and supple. wine with a long life Already delicious, this generous, plummy, spicy Grown mostly in the ahead. $50 deeply coloured, fragrant flavours, nutty notes Bridge Pa Triangle and red was hand-picked adding complexity, and a matured for a year in on the Takapau Plains very harmonious finish. Hungarian and French and matured for nine As an affordable, drink- oak casks (20% new), months in French oak young style, it’s hard to it has generous, vibrant barrels (33% new). beat. $16 plum, spice and black Full-bodied, with a Vidal Legacy pepper flavours, showing spicy bouquet, showing Hawke's Bay Syrah considerable complexity, good complexity, it has 2018 HHHH and a fragrant bouquet. concentrated, plummy, Still a baby, this medium $20 spicy flavours, a hint of to full-bodied red was Villa Maria Cellar liquorice, supple tannins, matured for 20 months Selection Hawke's and excellent balance in French oak barriques. Bay Syrah and harmony. Drink now Deep ruby, it is very 2019 HHHH or cellar. $35 vibrant, with strong plum Delicious in its youth, and spice flavours, some this mouthfilling, earthy, rustic notes and supple red was grown savoury characters adding principally (80%) at sites complexity. Best drinking near Gimblett Road and 2022+. $80 (A, UK) matured in French oak barriques (18% new). Skilfully crafted, it is full-coloured, with good concentration of ripe, plummy, spicy flavours and a well-rounded finish. Best drinking mid- 2021+. $25 94 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

regional tasting Volcanic Hills Esk Valley Villa Maria Reserve Mission Barrique Mills Reef Reserve Hawke's Bay Syrah Winemakers Reserve Gimblett Gravels Reserve Hawke's Gimblett Gravels 2019 HHH1/2 Gimblett Gravels Hawke's Bay Bay Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Fresh and youthful, this Hawke's Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHHH1/2 2018 HHHH single vineyard red was Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2018 HHHHH This powerful, very Priced right, this vibrant grown at Maraekakaho Merlot Malbec This lovely young red ageworthy red is a blend blend of cabernet and matured for a year Cabernet Franc was blended from of cabernet sauvignon sauvignon (68%) and in French oak casks 2018 HHHHH cabernet sauvignon (62%), merlot (24%) and merlot (32%) was (25% new). Medium- This powerful blend (78%), merlot (14%) cabernet franc (14%), matured for 15 months bodied, it is vibrantly of cabernet sauvignon and malbec (8%), and matured for a year in in French oak hogsheads fruity and supple, with (38%), merlot (28%), matured for 16 months French oak barriques. (36% new). Full-bodied plum and spice flavours, malbec (19%) and in French oak barriques Deeply coloured, it is and deeply coloured, gently seasoned with cabernet franc (15%) (35% new). Dark and fragrant, with strong, it has strong, ripe oak, and very good was hand-picked and dense, it is full-bodied, ripe blackcurrant, plum blackcurrant and plum depth. Best drinking matured in French with a fragrant, fresh and spice flavours and flavours, gently seasoned mid-2021+. $28 (US) oak barriques. Deeply bouquet and highly a fairly firm finish. Best with nutty oak, and a coloured, with a concentrated, ripe drinking 2023+. $29 smooth finish. Delicious Mission Hawke's fragrant, slightly spicy blackcurrant, plum and Saint Clair Pioneer young. $25 Bay Syrah 2019 HHH bouquet, it is weighty spice flavours, complex, Block 17 Plateau This deep ruby, medium and bold, with a rich finely poised and lasting. Cabernet Merlot Saint Clair James to full-bodied red has array of blackcurrant, Set for a long life, it’s 2018 HHHH1/2 Sinclair Gimblett fresh, peppery aromas. plum, berry, spice and well worth cellaring to Still unfolding, this Gravels Cabernet Vibrantly fruity, with nut flavours, vibrant and 2023+. $70 (UK) is a single vineyard, Merlot 2018 HHH1/2 plummy, spicy flavours, youthful. Flavour-packed, Church Road Gimblett Gravels blend Enjoyable young, this fresh acidity and a with good tannin McDonald Series of cabernet sauvignon deeply coloured red smooth finish, it’s backbone, it should Hawke's Bay (55%), merlot (41%) and is a blend of cabernet enjoyable young. $16 break into full stride Cabernet Sauvignon malbec (4%), matured sauvignon (59%) and 2023+. $70 (UK) 2017 HHHH1/2 for 10 months in French merlot (41%), matured CABERNET Mission Barrique This very ageworthy, oak casks (35% new). in tanks and French oak SAUVIGNON Reserve Hawke's harmonious red was Deeply coloured, barrels (partly new). It & BLENDS Bay Cabernet grown mostly in the with a fragrant, fresh, has a fresh, vibrantly Sauvignon Redstone Vineyard, slightly herbal bouquet, fruity bouquet, leading 12 TASTED 2018 HHHHH in the Bridge Pa it is mouthfilling, with into a full-bodied wine 12 RECOMMENDED This is a great buy. From Triangle, and matured vibrant, ripe blackcurrant, with very good depth two sites in the Gimblett for 18 months in red berry and spice of blackcurrant and red Cabernet sauvignon Gravels, it was matured French (principally) flavours, showing good berry flavours; ripe and once ruled the red wine for a year in French oak and Hungarian oak density, and finely smooth. $28 roost in Hawke's Bay, casks (25% new). Deeply barrels (30% new). balanced tannins. Best but more recently has coloured, with a fragrant Dark and youthful, drinking 2023+. $38 Mission Hawke's been overshadowed by bouquet, it is full-bodied, it is mouthfilling, Vidal Soler Gimblett Bay Cabernet merlot and syrah. Now, with generous, ripe with concentrated Gravels Hawke's Bay Sauvignon it’s well and truly on the flavours of blackcurrants blackcurrant, plum and Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 HHH comeback trail, helped and spices, good tannin spice flavours, nutty 2018 HHHH1/2 Priced right, this blend by sorting out the best, backbone and a finely and savoury, excellent This very youthful, of cabernet sauvignon free-draining sites for balanced, long finish. complexity and supple ageworthy red was (86%) and merlot this late ripening variety Already approachable, it’s tannins. Best drinking grown at two sites (14%) was partly barrel and the warmth of well worth cellaring. $29 2022+. $28 (A) and matured for 20 aged. Full-coloured, it is recent growing seasons. Vidal Legacy Mills Reef Elspeth months in French mouthfilling and vibrantly The top wines here are Gimblett Gravels Gimblett Gravels oak barriques. Full- fruity, with good depth world class. Hawke's Bay Hawke's Bay coloured, it is fresh and of blackcurrant, herb and Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon full-bodied, with vibrant spice flavours, and a well- Merlot 2018 HHHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 blackcurrant, plum rounded finish. $16 This refined red was Maturing very gracefully, and spice flavours, a hand-picked in the this full-bodied red was herbal thread, and good OTHER REDS Omahu and Vidal hand harvested from concentration. Best vineyards, and matured 21-year-old vines in the drinking 2022+. $35 7 TASTED for 20 months in French Mere Road Vineyard. 7 RECOMMENDED oak casks. Deeply Full-coloured, it is fleshy, coloured, it is fragrant, with concentrated, From the relative mouthfilling, rich and vibrant blackcurrant, warmth of the Gimblett supple, with deep plum and spice flavours, Gravels to elevated, blackcurrant and herb seasoned with nutty cooler sites in Central flavours, fine-grained oak, and a smooth, Hawke's Bay, the tannins and a long, spicy harmonious finish. Best region is producing finish. Best drinking drinking 2022+. $50 an absorbing array 2023+. $70 of ‘alternative’ reds from such varieties as malbec, cabernet franc, tempranillo, pinot noir – even marzemino. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 95

H AW K E S B AY Follow us and keep up to Church Road 1 Askerne Hawke's Junction Possession date with all our latest Single Vineyard Bay Cabernet Franc Central Hawke's Bay wine info, tastings and Gimblett Gravels 2018 HHHH Pinot Noir Hawke's Bay Malbec This youthful, ageworthy 2018 HHH1/2 events on facebook, 2017 HHHHH red was estate grown This moderately twitter and instagram. More elegant, less gutsy and matured for a year concentrated red was than many malbecs, in French oak barrels hand-picked on the Connect on social with this powerful red was (30% new). Fragrant Takapau Plains and Winestate matured in French and full-coloured, it matured for 18 months (80%) and Hungarian is mouthfilling, with in French oak barrels www.facebook.com/Winestate- (20%) oak casks (38% fresh berryish, herbal, (30% new). Ruby Magazine new). Deeply coloured, spicy flavours, showing hued, with a hint of it is mouthfilling and good concentration development, it has a twitter.com/winestateed youthful, with fresh, and complexity, and good depth of cherry, www.instagram.com/winestate/ dense, plummy, spicy a smooth finish. Best plum and spice flavours, flavours and firm, but drinking 2022+. $24 showing considerable www.winestate.com.au not grippy, tannins. Well Church Road complexity, and supple worth cellaring to 2023 McDonald Series tannins. Drink now or onwards, it should be Hawke's Bay cellar. $29 long lived. $90 Marzemino 2018 HHHH Lime Rock Kota From a variety cultivated Central Hawke's Bay in northern Italy, this Pinot Noir deeply coloured, easy 2016 HHH1/2 drinking red was estate Ready to roll, this grown in the Redstone hand-harvested red Vineyard, in the Bridge was partly barrel aged. Pa Triangle, and matured It has a ‘lightish’, for 14 months in French developed colour oak casks (21% new). and moderately rich Fresh and full-bodied, flavours, slightly herbal, it has strong, plummy, nutty, savoury and spicy flavours, a supple. $28 (UK, US) slightly earthy streak, considerable complexity FORTIFIED and a well-rounded finish. $32 1 TASTED 1 RECOMMENDED Black Barn Church Road Mission Barrique Vineyards Hawke's McDonald Series Reserve Fine Old Bay Tempranillo Hawke's Bay Tawny NV HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH1/2 Tempranillo Amber/brown, this Designed to be enjoyed 2018 HHHH lightly fortified (16% alc/ young, this is a medium From the star grape of vol) blend of muscat, to full-bodied red, hand Rioja, this attractive red merlot and cabernet was harvested at Havelock was estate grown in the made from the 1999 and North and made with Redstone Vineyard, in the 2004 vintages. Barrel ‘minimal’ use of oak. Bridge Pa Triangle, and aged for over 15 years, Full-coloured, it is fresh matured for 14 months in it is mouthfilling, with and vibrant, with good French oak barrels (25% a perfumed, muscat- concentration of berry, new). Full-coloured, it is like bouquet and sweet plum and spice flavours, fragrant and mouthfilling, flavours of apricots, some savoury notes, with generous plum/ raisins and nuts. Very fresh acidity and ripe, spice flavours, fresh and smooth, complex and supple tannins. Best youthful, considerable harmonious. $50 drinking mid-2021+. $39 complexity and fine- grained tannins. It’s already drinking well. $32 96 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

MICHAEL COOPER RECENT RELEASES This diverse line-up included impressive examples of some Pask Small Batch Domain Road famous regional wine styles, notably Hawke's Bay chardonnay, Wild Yeast Gimblett Bannockburn Marlborough sauvignon blanc and Central Otago pinot noir. Less Gravels Hawke's Bay Central Otago Pinot predictable was the presence of an excellent arneis, chardonnay, Chardonnay Noir 2018 HHHH1/2 pinot gris, rosé, syrah – and even a delicious blend of sangiovese 2019 HHHH1/2 Showing good potential, and montepulciano - from New Zealand’s oldest wine region, This very ageworthy, this vigorous, estate Northland. youthful wine was grown red was matured fermented with for 10 months in French Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available indigenous yeasts and oak casks (27% new). in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). lees-aged for a year Deep ruby, it is fragrant, in French oak barrels with vibrant cherry,  Wild Earth Earth (20% new). Pale plum, spice and nut and Sky Central lemon/green, with a flavours, showing very Saint Clair Otago Pinot Noir fresh, elegant bouquet, good complexity, and a Omaka Reserve 2019 HHHHH it has vibrant, citrusy, very harmonious finish. Marlborough Pinot Already very peachy, mealy flavours, Best drinking 2022+. Noir 2019 HHHHH approachable, this showing excellent $40 (A, UK, US) Full of youthful promise, seductive red was ripeness, delicacy and Domain Road this powerful, single grown at three sites depth, and a finely Bannockburn vineyard red was grown in Bannockburn, poised finish. Best Central Otago in the Southern Valleys matured in French oak drinking 2022+. $25 Pinot Noir Rosé and matured for 11 barriques (22% new), Saint Clair Pioneer 2019 HHHH1/2 months in French oak and bottled unfined and Block 14 Doctor’s Bright pink, this lively barrels (25% new). Deep unfiltered. Bright ruby, Creek Marlborough rosé is drinking well ruby, it is mouthfilling with a very fragrant, Pinot Noir now. Mouthfilling, it and weighty, with savoury bouquet, it is 2019 HHHH1/2 has strong, ripe, peachy concentrated cherry, mouthfilling and supple, Still unfolding, this flavours, hints of spices plum, spice and nut with impressive delicacy, full-bodied red was and apricots, and a flavours, complex, complexity, harmony and estate grown at fresh, basically dry savoury and finely length. $65 (A, US) Fairhall, south-west of finish. $27 (A, US) structured. Best drinking Blenheim, and matured Domain Road 2023+. $44 (A, UK) ½ for 11 months in French Defiance oak barrels. Bright ruby, Bannockburn The Landing Bay of Mission Barrique it is savoury, complex Central Otago Islands Chardonnay Reserve and supple, with Chardonnay 2019 HHHHH Marlborough strong, ripe cherry, 2018 HHHH1/2 This classy wine Sauvignon Blanc spice and nut flavours, This powerful wine was was estate grown in 2019 HHHH1/2 fresh acidity and fine- estate grown, hand- Northland, hand-picked Youthful, with obvious grained tannins. Best picked, and fermented and fermented and potential, this Awatere drinking 2022+. $38 and matured for 10 matured for 11 months Valley wine was estate (A, UK) months in French oak in French oak barriques. grown and fermented Dancing Petrel casks (32% new). Bright, light lemon/ and lees aged for nine Paewhenua Island Bright, light yellow/ green, it is refined months in French Northland Arneis green, with a toasty and full-bodied, with oak barrels. Bright, 2020 HHHH1/2 bouquet, it is full-bodied, deep, vibrant peach light lemon/green, Full of personality, this with rich stonefruit and grapefruit flavours, with a fragrant, ripely youthful Northland wine flavours, showing good mealy and toasty notes herbaceous, complex is full-bodied and fleshy, complexity, and a slightly adding complexity, and bouquet, it is full-bodied, with strong, fresh, creamy finish. Drink now a lingering finish. A with concentrated, citrusy, slightly peachy or cellar. $32 (A, UK, US) very age-worthy wine, tropical fruit flavours, a and spicy flavours, it should be at its best subtle seasoning of oak, showing excellent depth 2023+. $48 (US) good acid spine and a and vigour. $22 long, dry finish. $23 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 97

MICHAEL COOPER Domain Road Morepork Vineyard Terrace Edge North Two Degrees Central Anchorage Family Duffers Creek Northland Pinot Gris Canterbury Syrah Otago Pinot Noir Estate Reserve Bannockburn 2020 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH1/2 2019 HHHH1/2 Nelson Sauvignon Riesling Estate grown at a very Still a baby, this Grown at Queensberry, Blanc 2020 HHHH 2018 HHHH1/2 small, single-variety Waipara-grown red in the Cromwell Basin, This punchy, lees-aged Enjoyable now, this vineyard in Kerikeri, this is full-coloured and this freshly scented, wine is fresh and full- bright, light lemon/green very youthful wine is richly mouthfilling, with rich bright ruby red is elegant bodied, with strong, ripe Central Otago wine is a scented and mouthfilling, blackcurrant and spice and supple, with strong, tropical fruit flavours, fragrant, medium style, with strong, ripe pear, flavours, hints of olives ripe cherry, plum and lively acidity and a with a vague hint of lychee and spice flavours, and herbs, savoury spice flavours, finely lingering finish. $20 honey and good richness showing very good notes adding complexity, integrated oak and (A, UK, US) of finely balanced, delicacy, fresh acidity, and and supple tannins. Best a very harmonious, Dancing Petrel peachy, citrusy flavours. a long, basically dry, finely drinking 2022+. Certified lingering finish. $40 (UK) Paewhenua Island $27 (A, UK) poised finish. $24 organic. $36 (A, UK) Wild Earth Central Northland Pinot Gris Domain Road Palliser Estate The Landing Bay of Otago Pinot Noir 2020 HHHH The Water Race Martinborough Rosé Islands Boathouse 2019 HHHH1/2 Grown in the Far North, Bannockburn 2020 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay Fresh, youthful, savoury this fresh, full-bodied Dry Riesling Highly scented, this 2019 HHHH1/2 and supple, this regional wine has strong, ripe, 2018 HHHH1/2 bright pink, vibrant wine Well worth cellaring, blend was hand-picked pear-like flavours, hints Already drinking well, was made from pinot this vigorous wine was and matured in French of peaches and spices, this Central Otago wine noir. Balanced for easy estate grown, hand- oak barriques (22% and an off-dry finish. is ripely scented and full- drinking, it has excellent picked and fermented and new). Bright ruby, it is Showing good varietal bodied, with generous, delicacy and depth of matured for 11 months very harmonious, with character, it offers very peachy, slightly limey and strawberry, watermelon in French oak barriques. vibrant cherry, plum and easy drinking. $22 appley flavours, finely and spice flavours, and a Bright, light lemon/green, spice flavours, showing Georges Michel balanced acidity and smooth finish. $28 (A) with a fragrant, slightly good complexity, and Legend Marlborough an off-dry, harmonious Terrace Edge Liquid biscuity bouquet, it is a smooth finish. Best Pinot Noir finish. $27 (A) Geography North mouthfilling, with ripe drinking 2022+. $40 (A, 2019 HHHH Invivo X Sarah Canterbury Riesling stonefruit flavours, strong UK, US) Still very youthful, this Jessica Parker 2020 HHHH1/2 and vibrant, and good boldly coloured, fruit- Marlborough Certified organic, this is a complexity. $27 (US)  packed red was matured Sauvignon Blanc distinctly medium style, The Landing Bay of for 18 months in French 2020 HHHH1/2 with rich, ripe, peachy, Islands Rosé Black Cottage oak barrels. Fresh, with Instantly likeable, this slightly appley and 2020 HHHH1/2 Marlborough strong, ripe cherry, plum wine was grown in the spicy flavours, a vague This mouthfilling, lively Sauvignon Blanc and spice flavours, and Awatere Valley and given suggestion of honey, and Northland rosé is an 2020 HHHH good tannin backbone, some oak handling. a finely poised finish. estate grown blend of This aromatic, punchy it needs time; open Ripely scented, it is Best drinking 2022+. $24 syrah, merlot and pinot wine was grown in the 2022+. $49 (US) weighty, with vibrant (A, UK) gris. Pale pink, it has Wairau and Awatere Karikari Estate passionfruit/lime flavours Terrace Edge North very good intensity valleys. Tank fermented, Chardonnay and a rounded, very Canterbury Albariño of delicate peach, it is intensely varietal, 2019 HHHH harmonious, lingering 2020 HHHH1/2 strawberry and spice with good intensity of This distinctive finish. $20 (A, UK, US) Full of youthful vigour, flavours, youthful, dry fresh, ripe passionfruit/ Northland chardonnay Karikari Estate this punchy wine was and lingering. $35 (US) lime flavours and a dry, was estate grown, hand- Syrah fermented in seasoned The Landing appetisingly crisp finish. harvested and barrel 2017 HHHH1/2 oak casks. Certified Boathouse Bay of $18 (A, UK, US) fermented. Light gold, This powerful red organic, it is mouthfilling, Islands Vino Rosso Georges Road Les it is weighty, with deep, was estate grown with a strong surge of 2019 HHHH1/2 Terrasses Waipara ripe stonefruit flavours, in Northland and peachy, citrusy, spicy This skilfully crafted, Rosé 2020 HHHH gently seasoned with matured for two years flavours, and an off-dry, estate grown This very lively, single toasty oak, balanced in French (mostly) and appetisingly crisp finish. Northland red was vineyard rosé was made acidity, and drink-young American oak casks. $27 (A, UK) blended principally from syrah, hand-picked appeal. $45 Deeply coloured, with a Terrace Edge North from sangiovese and at Waipara, fermented Palliser Estate fragrant, spicy, slightly Canterbury Rosé montepulciano, with with indigenous yeasts Martinborough earthy bouquet, it is 2020 HHHH1/2 smaller amounts of and lees aged. Bright Riesling 2020 HHHH sturdy, rich and firm, Certified organic, this cabernet franc and pink, it is light-bodied, This very youthful wine with concentrated, Waipara-grown wine is merlot. Barrique aged for with vibrant red berry is tightly structured, youthful plum and a blend of syrah (60%) a year, it is full-coloured, and watermelon with fresh, ripe, citrusy, spice flavours, a hint of and pinot noir (40%). mouthfilling, fresh and flavours, crisp and dry. peachy, appley flavours, liquorice, and obvious Bright pink, it is very smooth, with strong, Good drinking for the showing very good cellaring potential. $45 youthful, with good ripe blackcurrant, plum summer of 2020-21. delicacy and depth. intensity of vibrant and spice flavours, $25 Finely poised, it’s already peach, strawberry and oak complexity, enjoyable, but well worth spice flavours, a touch buried tannins and a cellaring. $26 (A, UK) of tannin, and an off-dry, fragrant bouquet. Great lingering finish. $24 drinkability. $27 (US) 98 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

recent releases The Landing Dancing Petrel Anchorage Family Follow us and keep up to Boathouse Bay of Paewhenua Island Estate Nelson date with all our latest Islands Rosé Northland Rosé Sauvignon Blanc wine info, tastings and 2020 HHHH 2020 HHH1/2 2020 HHH This Northland rosé Pale pink, this is a Enjoyable young, this events on facebook, is a blend of syrah, cabernet franc-based lively, medium-bodied twitter and instagram. merlot and cabernet rosé. Mouthfilling, it is wine is strongly varietal, franc. Bright, light pink, not highly scented but with fresh tropical fruit Connect on social with it is a freshly scented, offers very good depth and herbaceous flavours, Winestate medium-bodied wine, of peach, spice and and an appetisingly crisp with peach, apricot, strawberry flavours, with finish. $18 (A, UK, US) www.facebook.com/Winestate- strawberry and spice a touch of tannin and a Fat Pig Vineyard Magazine flavours, showing very dryish finish. $22 Rosé 2020 HHH good delicacy, vibrancy Karikari Estate Made from estate twitter.com/winestateed and harmony. $27 (US) Pinotage grown syrah, this www.instagram.com/winestate/ 2016 HHH1/2 Northland rosé is bright ½ This powerful, gutsy red pink. Offering very www.winestate.com.au is ready to roll. Estate easy drinking, it has Black Cottage grown in the Far North, peach, strawberry and Marlborough Pinot it was barrel aged for 29 watermelon flavours, Gris 2020 HHH1/2 months. Fullish and fairly and an off-dry, smooth This lively, medium- mature in colour, with a finish. $24 bodied wine was grown slightly rustic bouquet, it Fat Pig Vineyard in the Wairau Valley and is mouthfilling and firm, Sauvignon Blanc fermented and lees aged with ripe, moderately 2020 HHH in tanks. Bright, light concentrated, spicy, Estate grown at lemon/green, it is a fully slightly earthy and nutty Kerikeri, in Northland, dry style with youthful, flavours. $42 this bright, light peachy, slightly citrusy Old House Vineyards lemon/green wine has and spicy flavours, One Tree Nelson fresh, herbal aromas. showing good vigour Chardonnay Medium-bodied, it has and depth. Best drinking 2019 HHH1/2 citrusy, appley flavours, mid-2011+. $18 (A, This powerful, robust crisp and lively, and UK, US) wine was hand-picked good depth. Enjoyable Black Cottage at Upper Moutere and young. $26 Marlborough Rosé barrel fermented. Bright Karikari Estate 2020 HHH1/2 yellow/green, it is sweet- Calypso Rosé Priced right, this bright, fruited, with fresh acidity 2020 HHH light pink wine was and youthful, stonefruit Estate grown in the Far made mostly from flavours. It needs time; North, this pink/pale pinot noir grapes, open 2022+. $37 orange wine is full- grown in the Wairau bodied, with plenty of Valley. Fermented  peachy, spicy flavour and and briefly lees aged a dry, rounded finish. in tanks, it is freshly Saint Clair Origin Ready for the summer scented, with very Marlborough Pinot of 2020-21. $27 lively, strawberryish Noir 2019 HHH Karikari Estate flavours, hints of Bright ruby, this partly Northland Port HHH watermelon and barrel-aged red is full- This distinctive, spices, and a crisp, bodied, with strong fortified wine has a fully dry finish. $18 cherry, plum and spice lightish, very tawny (A, UK, US) flavours, an earthy colour. Moderately Anchorage Family streak and a fairly firm concentrated, it is a Estate Nelson Pinot finish. $25 (A, UK) sweetish, slightly raisiny Gris 2020 HHH1/2 Anchorage Family wine that lacks the Invitingly scented, Estate Nelson mellowness of a fine this medium-bodied Chardonnay old tawny but is still an wine is vibrantly fruity, 2019 HHH enjoyable mouthful. $35 with fresh, youthful Drinking well now, this pear, lychee and spice creamy-textured wine flavours, showing good has good depth of depth, balanced acidity peachy, slightly toasty and an off-dry finish. Very flavours, gentle acidity easy drinking. $18 (A, and a dry, smooth finish. UK, US) $16 (A, UK, US) December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 99

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difficult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings. A wide selection of wines there are unpleasant flavours. These advertise if they wish, their awarded final ‘medals’ are then converted into wine’s review will be featured regardless Wines are invited from any producer, a star rating system for publication in of advertising. The judges’ decisions are provided that they meet the criteria Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver final and these are published according of the class being judged. The class is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. to the judges’ scores, whether advertising may be a regional, style or new release is taken or not. tasting and generally the wines must be The biggest judging system available for consumers to purchase, The judges although we have museum and rare Winestate examines on average more wine tastings as well. Australasian wines per year than We take care in selecting our judges. any other forum - more than 10,000. But remember: judges are human and Awarding scores Compare this to the biggest show in their own preference will influence Australia, the royal Melbourne wine their scores. We use judges with Winestate carries out the judging show, with just over 4000 entries. complementary backgrounds and a using Australian capital city wine show three-person panel for each flight will procedures; the wines are not known Independence of advertising include winemakers with technical to the judges. The three judges taste expertise and often a marketing/retail the wines blind and assign a score Winestate does charge a nominal expert who knows consumer tastes. without reference to each other. Once entrance fee for wines submitted which Often one or more of the judges are this is done, only then do they compare covers our administration costs only, masters of wine with vast international scores, and if there is dissension they and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ experience, and most judges have re-taste the wines and come to an wines to be evaluated where we believe experience at major Australian wine agreement. Scores are compiled using that these are of consumer or trade shows. We are also aware of expertise. the 20-point international system: gold interest if these have not been entered If we are judging a region, for example, is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and by the wineries. In order to produce we will have a winemaker judge from above and is an excellent wine; bronze the biggest and best wine magazine, that region because that person knows is 15.5 and above and represents good Winestate includes advertising; the local style. We balance that with wine. A reasonable, sound everyday- however, this is fiercely independent a judge from outside the region and drinking wine scores 15 (but does of any wine tasting editorial. Wine generally someone with broad and not gain a medal). A bland but clean companies are advised of the blind mature experience. wine scores 14. Below this score tasting results and it is their choice to HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating Comment Wine show Medal International 20 100 Point System Point System HHHHH Outstanding Gold 18.5 - 20 97 - 100 HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 95 - 96 Very Good 18 - 18.4 93 - 94 HHHH Silver 91 - 92 HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 17 - 17.9 89 - 90 Good HHH Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 15.5 - 16.4 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. 100 W I N E S TAT E December 2020