Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2015

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 11,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE SPECIAL EDITION 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 7 SPECIAL EDITION 2015 69-Page special feature The best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from Australia & New Zealand 185 WINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS RIESLING QUEENSLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO NEW RELEASE WINES TASTED Special Edition 2015 Vol 38 Issue 7 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Sauvignon Blanc & Blends Riesling Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio Queensland From The Producer Best Value Buys Under $20 PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663

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Flavours from South Africa Cafe, 15 – 18 January 2016 Enjoy an array of South African flavours at Cafe from 15 - 18 January. With Winestate’s Wines of South Africa taking place at Hyatt Regency Perth on 16 January, why not indulge in authentic cuisine to match. Sip and swirl your way through South Africa’s finest including chenin blancs with soft vanilla notes to full bodied reds from the highly regarded Stellenbosch region. For bookings call 08 9225 1204.or email [email protected] HYATT REGENCY PERTH follow us on facebook perth.regency.hyatt.com facebook.com/peth.regency.hyatt Term and Condidtions apply. Subjectg to availability at time of booking. HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation. @2015 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.

Flavours from South Africa Cafe, 15 – 18 January 2016 Enjoy an array of South African flavours at Cafe from 15 - 18 January. With Winestate’s Wines of South Africa taking place at Hyatt Regency Perth on 16 January, why not indulge in authentic cuisine to match. Sip and swirl your way through South Africa’s finest including chenin blancs with soft vanilla notes to full bodied reds from the highly regarded Stellenbosch region. For bookings call 08 9225 1204.or email [email protected] HYATT REGENCY PERTH follow us on facebook perth.regency.hyatt.com facebook.com/peth.regency.hyatt Term and Condidtions apply. Subjectg to availability at time of booking. HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation. @2015 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.

ORDER NOW VISIT CELLAR DOOR or (08) 8323 7940 www.mclarenvaleIIIassociates.com.au [email protected] Follow us: @IIIAssociates

ORDER NOW VISIT CELLAR DOOR or (08) 8323 7940 www.mclarenvaleIIIassociates.com.au [email protected] Follow us: @IIIAssociates

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015 UNFORGETTABLE Feast your senses on a Wine Ambassador Series River Cruise Europe Wine Ambassador Cruises DEPARTURES Join APT and enjoy a truly unforgettable five-star journey. Unpack only once and relax as APT’s 16 DAY CHARMS OF 8 DAY RHÔNE TREASURES all-inclusive river cruises take you through Europe’s SOUTHERN FRANCE Lyon to Arles. most stunning scenery in style. Arles to Lyon. Departs 24 June 2016 Departs 29 July & 7 Oct 2016 From $9,895* pp, twin share From $5,395* pp, twin share In 2016 APT is partnering with expert vintners from across Australia to deliver complementary Wine 9 DAY DOURO DELIGHTS 15 DAY MAGNIFICENT EUROPE Masterclass experiences on selected cruise departures. Madrid to Porto. Amsterdam to Budapest. ^ Hand-picked Wine Ambassadors will travel exclusively Departs 4 July 2016 Departs 16 July & 18 Nov 2016 on cruises in Central Europe, France and Portugal. From $5,645* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share These hosts will oversee tastings of wonderful wine 8 DAY GRAND BORDEAUX 15 DAY RHINE, RHÔNE & MOSELLE including specially selected wines from their own range, Bordeaux return. Arles to Amsterdam. lead excursions to wineries and vineyards, and explain Departs 8 July 2016 Departs 5 August 2016 the nuances of traditional wine-making methods and From $5,195* pp, twin share From $10,595* pp, twin share European wine heritage and traditions. 8 DAY ROMANTIC SEINE 15 DAY RHINE & MOSELLE BOOK NOW FOR EARLYBIRD SUPERDEALS Paris return. Amsterdam to Basel. INCLUDING FLY FREE* Departs 22 July 2016 Departs 30 September 2016 From $4,695* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share Visit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Prices are correct as at 9 October 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. All offers are available until 31 October 2015 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings only. Prices based on EUFCR16W: 24 June 2016 (Cat. E), EUPDCR09W: 4 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUBC08W: 8 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUSC08W: 22 July 2016 (Cat. E) , EURCR15W: 5 August 2016 (Cat. E), EUDC15W: 30 September 2016, EUPC08W: 7 October 2016 (Cat. E) and EUMC15W: 18 November 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. All offers are available and are subject to availability, until sold out. Prices are inclusive of $200 or $400 Early Payment Discount, where applicable. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: $400 pp offer is applicable to tours 15 days or longer. $200 pp offer is applicable to tours between 8–14 days. 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp must be paid by 31 August 2015. Full payment due 10 months prior to tour departure. NO EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: A 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp is due by 31 October 2015. Final payment due 100 days prior to departure. Tour operates Budapest to Amsterdam. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT3268 ^

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015 DWPAR144121 NO.273 SPECIAL EDITION 2015 UNFORGETTABLE Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Lisa McPike E: [email protected] Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Peter Jackson, Winestate Publications Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Feast your senses on a New South Wales Pearman Media Wine Ambassador Series River Cruise Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Europe Wine Ambassador Cruises DEPARTURES Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Join APT and enjoy a truly unforgettable five-star Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France journey. Unpack only once and relax as APT’s 16 DAY CHARMS OF 8 DAY RHÔNE TREASURES Cecile Nogier - Buenos Aires - France all-inclusive river cruises take you through Europe’s SOUTHERN FRANCE Lyon to Arles. Phone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] most stunning scenery in style. Arles to Lyon. Departs 24 June 2016 Departs 29 July & 7 Oct 2016 Web: www.buenos-aires.fr From $9,895* pp, twin share From $5,395* pp, twin share In 2016 APT is partnering with expert vintners from across Australia to deliver complementary Wine 9 DAY DOURO DELIGHTS 15 DAY MAGNIFICENT EUROPE DISTRIBUTORS Masterclass experiences on selected cruise departures. Madrid to Porto. Amsterdam to Budapest. Australia ^ Hand-picked Wine Ambassadors will travel exclusively Departs 4 July 2016 Departs 16 July & 18 Nov 2016 Gordon and Gotch Australia P/L on cruises in Central Europe, France and Portugal. From $5,645* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share International These hosts will oversee tastings of wonderful wine 8 DAY GRAND BORDEAUX 15 DAY RHINE, RHÔNE & MOSELLE DAI Rubicon including specially selected wines from their own range, Bordeaux return. Arles to Amsterdam. lead excursions to wineries and vineyards, and explain Departs 8 July 2016 Departs 5 August 2016 WINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. the nuances of traditional wine-making methods and From $5,195* pp, twin share From $10,595* pp, twin share Copyright 2015 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole European wine heritage and traditions. 8 DAY ROMANTIC SEINE 15 DAY RHINE & MOSELLE or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic BOOK NOW FOR EARLYBIRD SUPERDEALS Paris return. Amsterdam to Basel. medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. INCLUDING FLY FREE* Departs 22 July 2016 Departs 30 September 2016 Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher From $4,695* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 www.parous.com.au Visit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Prices are correct as at 9 October 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. All offers are available until 31 October 2015 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings only. Prices based on EUFCR16W: 24 June 2016 (Cat. E), EUPDCR09W: 4 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUBC08W: 8 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUSC08W: 22 July 2016 (Cat. E) , EURCR15W: 5 August 2016 (Cat. E), EUDC15W: 30 September 2016, EUPC08W: 7 October 2016 (Cat. E) and EUMC15W: 18 November 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. All offers are available and are subject to availability, until sold out. Prices are inclusive of $200 or $400 Early Payment Discount, where applicable. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: $400 pp offer is applicable to tours 15 days or longer. $200 pp offer is applicable to tours between 8–14 days. 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp must be paid by 31 August 2015. Full payment due 10 months prior to tour departure. NO EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: A 1st non-refundable deposit of ^ $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp is due by 31 October 2015. Final payment due 100 days prior to departure. Tour operates Budapest to Amsterdam. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT3268 Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 9

Celebrating contents SPECIAL EDITION 2015 40 years 40 PREMIUM PUSH PAYS OFF The Casella family may have made its initial mark in the wine industry at the budget end of the market, says Nigel Hopkins, but it is now also entrenched at the top end. The Yellow Tail brand, which has gone on to sell more than a billion bottles, gave the family 28 business its first taste of success, but since 2006 it has also enjoyed EARLY DAYS In 1975 Graham and Merilyn Hutton decided to diversify FEATURES recognition at the premium end their Willyabrup beef farm. With three young children with its Casella 1919 range. And and a severe downturn in beef prices, they assessed the Finalists 28 MASTER OF HIS CRAFT the purchase of Peter Lehmann probability of growing grapes and making and selling their own wine. They planted a 4.5 ha vineyard on their For more than 60 years John Wines last year is a further signal farm, and joined a handful of passionate pioneers, in the Vickery was the driving force that the business now has a top- fledgling Margaret River wine industry in the South West of behind Australia’s riesling wine end focus. Western Australia. They were self-taught winemakers who built their own winery, split posts (from Jarrah trees off the industry, writes Nigel Hopkins. property) for the vineyard, made the first ports and opened Now the 83-year-old, named REGULARS the region’s first Cellar Door in 1978. They named their new the greatest living Australian 14 venture Gralyn, a combination of their Christian names. winemaker a decade ago, is Briefs TODAY about to enter a new phase of his 20 European Report Gralyn Estate is still family owned and operated. It is well ARTIZAN RARE life – a move from the Barossa with Sally Easton MW known for their wide range of wine styles, that includes MUSCAT NV Valley to Port Willunga. 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley sweet and dry wines as well as a large selection of HHHHH fortified wines. The Huttons have continued to focus on Rancio, age yet 36 BEST OF THE BUNCH 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Special Awards Feature 2015 Cellar Door sales. Wines can also be ordered online and freshness, a balance delivered Australia wide and overseas. The state-of-the-art of spirit, sweetness It’s only been 15 years since Bird 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankel Cellar Door concentrates on the ‘wine tasting’ experience, and acidity - a terrific In Hand was launched, but in that 102 Winewords ~ STARTS PAGE 33 ~ while customers enjoy a magnificent view over the vines example of what time and time it has had a stunning run of and surrounding farmland. Further improvements have patience can achieve. included a new winery and temperature controlled wine 6 TROPHIES, 4 GOLD success, reports Joy Walterfang. 104 Grapevine After a year-long “tasting” of 11,000 storage facility. MEDALS. Since 2006 the winery, nestled 112 What’s it Worth? Australian and New Zealand wines, it in the hills behind Oakbank in 114 Wine Investment & Collecting has finally come down to announce AWARDS Gralyn has always been a strong supporter of the National the Adelaide Hills, has collected Winestate’s winning Wine of The and International Wine Show system and has achieved 126 domestic and international 165 Subscription Form Year, writes chairman and founder remarkable success. It is the full bodied dry red wines 2001 SHIRAZ CABERNET HHHHH gold medals and trophies. Now 170 Aftertaste of Winestate magazine, Peter Simic. that have put Gralyn Estate on the map. They are superb Lovely example of the great examples of strength and finesse, with the potential to the winery has capped off its The annual “grand final” blind taste age gracefully. The recent success of the 2001 Shiraz Aussie blend. Amazingly amazing success story with a WINE T A S TINGS off of all four-and-a-half and five-star Cabernet in The World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge, bears bright and alive for a 14 year old and beautifully “never before” performance in wines judged throughout the year testimony to the ability of Gralyn dry red wines to withstand complex with a perfect the test of time. In recent years Gralyn Chardonnay has Winestate’s Wine of The Year 120 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends was a monumental task. Thirteen also established a reputation as one of the region’s finest. seamless palate. judging, walking away with all 126 Riesling categories were judged and from the The fortified wines are regarded as some of Australia’s TROPHY, 4 GOLD MEDALS, three major trophies – Wine of The 132 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio top five wines in each, a winner was best, with the NV Artizan Rare Muscat, winning the 3rd in the World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge. Year, Winemaker of The Year and awarded. This year Winestate also Fortified Trophy in this year’s prestigious Six Nations Wine Challenge. Wine Company of The Year. 136 From The Producer presented the special Best Value 138 Queensland Trophy for highest quality wine at the 40 YEARS ON lowest price, sponsored by Aldi. The Merilyn and Graham continue to run cattle on their property, results were outstanding and “we enjoying the balance between viticulture and farming. Never in their ‘wildest dreams’ in 1975, did they envisage have no hesitation in recommending where their path would lead. There are many reasons these winning wines to you as worthy to celebrate Gralyn’s 40th Anniversary. 147 New Releases and world-class wines,” says Simic. In Best Value Buys under $20. conjunction with the annual awards, Winestate also announces its Winemaker of The Year and Wine Company of The year for Australia and Winestate Magazine New Zealand. Issue Number 273 Special Edition 2015 For a complete list of what we tasted for this Cover photograph issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Brendan Homan. www.gralyn.com.au - Join our ‘obligation free’ Loyalty Club 10 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015 Cellar Door 4145 Caves Road Willyabrup | [email protected] | +61 8 9755 6245

Celebrating 40 years EARLY DAYS In 1975 Graham and Merilyn Hutton decided to diversify their Willyabrup beef farm. With three young children and a severe downturn in beef prices, they assessed the probability of growing grapes and making and selling Finalists their own wine. They planted a 4.5 ha vineyard on their farm, and joined a handful of passionate pioneers, in the fledgling Margaret River wine industry in the South West of Western Australia. They were self-taught winemakers who built their own winery, split posts (from Jarrah trees off the property) for the vineyard, made the first ports and opened the region’s first Cellar Door in 1978. They named their new venture Gralyn, a combination of their Christian names. TODAY Gralyn Estate is still family owned and operated. It is well ARTIZAN RARE known for their wide range of wine styles, that includes MUSCAT NV sweet and dry wines as well as a large selection of HHHHH fortified wines. The Huttons have continued to focus on Rancio, age yet Cellar Door sales. Wines can also be ordered online and freshness, a balance delivered Australia wide and overseas. The state-of-the-art of spirit, sweetness Cellar Door concentrates on the ‘wine tasting’ experience, and acidity - a terrific while customers enjoy a magnificent view over the vines example of what time and and surrounding farmland. Further improvements have patience can achieve. included a new winery and temperature controlled wine 6 TROPHIES, 4 GOLD storage facility. MEDALS. AWARDS Gralyn has always been a strong supporter of the National and International Wine Show system and has achieved remarkable success. It is the full bodied dry red wines 2001 SHIRAZ CABERNET that have put Gralyn Estate on the map. They are superb HHHHH examples of strength and finesse, with the potential to Lovely example of the great age gracefully. The recent success of the 2001 Shiraz Aussie blend. Amazingly Cabernet in The World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge, bears bright and alive for a 14 testimony to the ability of Gralyn dry red wines to withstand year old and beautifully the test of time. In recent years Gralyn Chardonnay has complex with a perfect also established a reputation as one of the region’s finest. seamless palate. The fortified wines are regarded as some of Australia’s TROPHY, 4 GOLD MEDALS, best, with the NV Artizan Rare Muscat, winning the 3rd in the World’s Greatest Fortified Trophy in this year’s prestigious Six Nations Wine Shiraz Challenge. Challenge. 40 YEARS ON Merilyn and Graham continue to run cattle on their property, enjoying the balance between viticulture and farming. Never in their ‘wildest dreams’ in 1975, did they envisage where their path would lead. There are many reasons to celebrate Gralyn’s 40th Anniversary. www.gralyn.com.au - Join our ‘obligation free’ Loyalty Club Cellar Door 4145 Caves Road Willyabrup | [email protected] | +61 8 9755 6245

We South Australians sure know how to make wine ... Winestate Wine of the Year 2014 Mollydooker Carnival of Love McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 Winestate Australian Winemaker of the Year 2014 Kym Milne, Bird in Hand Winestate Australian Wine Company of the Year 2014 Wines by Geoff Hardy WinestateMag-110615.indd 1 17/06/2015 10:59 am

We South Australians sure know how to make wine ... editorial THIS IS OUR WINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS issue where the Kiwis dominate with the cream rises to the top and we re-judge our best sauvignon blanc wines, wines from those rated four-and-a-half stars and five as again happened this stars throughout the year. These could come from a year; likewise fortified diverse range of tastings; from New Releases, Regional wines excel from the Tastings and what we call Style Tastings (generally varietal warmer climate Aussie categories, but also style in the case of sweet whites and regions. New Zealand Winestate Wine of the Year 2014 fortifieds). In this issue we bring you our amazing Top Five excelled with pinot gris/ Mollydooker Carnival of Love category winners across 14 different classes. Then from grigio and sweet white wines, while Australia this selection our trophy panel selects the Wine of the Year McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 and Runner Up Wine of the Year. dominated with semillon, Congratulations to the Bird in Hand winery for achieving cabernet and shiraz our first ever “Triple Crown” in our Wine of the Year Awards wines. For the other issue 2015. This is an astonishing achievement given that categories nominations they not only gained the Australian Wine Company of the were equally shared (see Year Award, Australian Winemaker of the Year Award for the results section for all Kym Milne (second year in a row) and to cap it off the the winners). overall Winestate Wine of the Year 2015 for the Bird in Our sincere congratulations to all those who made it into the Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2012. This tops final five in each category and of course the winners, but bear off an enormous year for the company in our eyes following in mind that there were many very worthy wines that we judged success with their 2010 MAC Adelaide Hills prestige shiraz throughout the year that also achieved high recommendations. winning this year’s Winestate World’s Greatest Shiraz & We are indeed very lucky to have two countries that produce Syrah Challenge. All these results involved different wine the quality that we enjoy. judging panels. Is there no end to the wealth of wine talent Finally our grateful thanks to all our sponsors who support our Winestate Australian that this company produces? (In case you wanted to ask category winners and the many expert judges throughout the neither Winestate nor any staff member has any shares year who sort out the wheat from the chaff in our blind tastings Winemaker of the Year 2014 in Bird in Hand). from the 11,000 or so wines that we evaluate. And thanks to Kym Milne, Bird in Hand For our New Zealand associates, led by New Zealand you, our ultimate judges. I hope that you find some wines that Editor Michael Cooper, we were pleased to see Villa Maria are equal to your favourites and some that will become your back on top, winning the New Zealand Wine Company of new favourites. Best wishes for 2016 and may your best wine the Year and also New Zealand Winemaker of the Year with be the one you are drinking now. Nick Picone. Sir George Fistonich accepted the company award at the Winestate awards ceremony in Auckland. Cheers! Interestingly for the first 10 years of this award it was Market your wines to the world! impossible to prise the award away from Villa Maria and their exceptional chief winemaker of the time. His name ... Kym Milne. Join the Australian Wine Industry Export and Buyers mission to Verona in 2015 Because Winestate is proudly the Australian and New Vinitaly 2015 – Verona, Italy, 22-25 March 2015 Zealand Wine Buying Guide, the wines that qualify for this The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready “grand final” taste-off are focused on the best from these companies and for buyers sourcing international wines. two countries. There is friendly rivalry across all styles, with Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyers each country having advantages with some varietals and Peter Simic sourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western and not so much with others. Generally we would expect to see Your wine, Eastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America. Editor/Publisher The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne is the Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance to our ports. Winestate Australian Wine Australian wine industry professionals attending the show: - Space and stand bookings at preferential rates Australia Company of the Year 2014 - Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona Export Customer Service - Logistics 1300 134 096 Wines by Geoff Hardy - Visitor registration Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 ICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for Major Sponsors and Supporters Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 For more information contact: Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Inbound - 0508 333 666 Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] No matter what. www.italcham.com.au www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 13 WinestateMag-110615.indd 1 17/06/2015 10:59 am

briefs PAROCHIAL PROMOTION DON’T OVERLOOK LANGHORNE CREEK HENRY’S Restaurant at the Henry Jones Art Hotel and the Ball & WINE lovers heading to South Australia would probably opt to first Chain Grill at Salamanca, both in Hobart, were announced as the visit the Barossa and McLaren Vale, then perhaps the Adelaide recipients of the 2015 Tasmanian Wine List of the Year Awards. In Hills, Clare Valley or Coonawarra. One wine region that is often 2014, Wine Tasmania and the Tasmanian Hospitality Association unfairly overlooked is Langhorne Creek, which is less than an hour (THA) partnered on a new award to recognise licensed Tasmanian from Adelaide, with a lovely country ambiance. The tiny hamlet of businesses supporting and promoting the local wine sector as Langhorne Creek, population 668 at the last census, is where Wolf part of the Tasmanian Hotel Association’s annual Awards for Blass sourced the fruit for some of his early trophy winners and the Excellence. The Tasmanian Wine List of the Year Award aims to region still produces grapes for leading labels, including Jacob’s encourage licensed premises to feature the island’s outstanding Creek, George Wyndham, Rosemount Estate and Wolf Blass. Over wines as part of their overall offering and recognises those 85 per cent of the fruit grown in over 6000ha of vines is sold. “The businesses providing significant support to local wine producers. problem we have in gaining recognition is that so much of the fruit “The response to this initiative has been very positive and it’s produced here is used by the big companies, or in blends that often great to see so many businesses recognising the outstanding don’t even mention Langhorne Creek on the label,” said Greg Follett wines produced in Tasmania, and promoting them as part of their from Lake Breeze, one of the outstanding local producers. “When business offering,” said Wine Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies. people visit us they learn about our region, characters and places, “The awards consider not just the number of Tasmanian wines and that’s why we are putting lots of energy into increasing the on a wine list, but also the depth and diversity of the wine range, awareness of Langhorne Creek and its consistently great wines.” the structure, accuracy and professionalism of the wine list, as Langhorne Creek has a wine history dating back to 1850. It is best well as staff training and wine knowledge. “Tasmanian wines are known for cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, which account for 70 per increasingly being recognised around the world for their quality, cent of production, but over recent years experimentation has led and more people are choosing to visit Tasmania specifically for our to a range of grape varieties being grown, including malbec. “We wine and food. Having a wide range of Tasmanian wines available fill the gap in the market place between cool-climate wines and at restaurants, cafes, wine bars, clubs and hotels is an important full-on warmer regions,” says Follett, alluding to the cooling lake part of the overall tourism experience.” The other finalists were and ocean breezes that characterise the district. The town is on Black Cow Bistro, Drunken Admiral, Grape Bar, Mures Upper the banks of the Bremer River, which flows into Lake Alexandrina. Deck, Stillwater, The Source, The Terrace, The Ugly Duck Out In winter, the river frequently floods across the vineyards, providing and Twelve Stones. natural irrigation to the rich, deep soils. Among the labels to look 14 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

briefs THE BEST OF TASMANIA LOVERS of wine, cider, beer or spirits visiting Tasmania might want to make a note of Bespoke Tasmania. Kim Dudson is the owner and operator of Bespoke Tasmania, which conducts tailor-made tours for small groups prepared to pay for exclusivity and access to attractions that are off the regular tourist track. The charming and knowledgeable Dudson knows Tasmania well and can introduce visitors to leading fine food producers, artisan brewers, distillers and vignerons, artists, owners of heritage properties and more. Bespoke Tasmania is the official tour provider for guests at MONA Pavilions and the Henry Jones Art Hotel, two of Tasmania’s most prestigious addresses, and Dudson is keen to curate tours that centre on special interest, particularly destinations not usually open to the general public. Among the experiences on offer is a four-hour Bespoke Gin Workshop at William McHenry & Sons Distillery, Port Arthur. for are historic family-owned Bleasdale, Bremerton, Lake Breeze, But Dudson also puts together premium small-scale tours to Brothers in Arms (where the metala vines are some of the oldest destinations including Hobart and surrounds, the Derwent Valley in the country) and Temple Bruer, one of the country’s leading and the Tasman Peninsula, as well as other tours based on organic producers. At Cleggett you can try the unusual mutant individual interests. white cabernet known as shalistan. You won’t find many places to “Basically, whatever people want to do I can put it together for stay in Langhorne Creek other than a couple of vineyard cottages, them,” Dudson says. “They can just sit back and enjoy themselves but the hamlet is just 10 minutes from Strathalbyn and a short drive while I take care of everything.” Phone 0429 636 348 or visit www. from Mount Barker in the Adelaide Hills. The Bridge Hotel serves bespoketasmania.com. fine pub grub (beware, the portions are enormous) and you can also get a fine meal at The Winehouse (the attractive shared cellar door of Heartland Wines, Gipsie Jack, Kimbolton, Johns’s Blend by John Glaetzer and Ben Potts. It is also home to the Meechi micro brewery) and at rustic Angas Plains Winery. ROWE STEPS UP FOR A GREAT CAUSE VASTLY experienced Neville Rowe THE wine industry is fiercely competitive, but also one in which is the new chief winemaker at everyone rallies around for a good cause. When Archie, the Chateau Tanunda in the Barossa five-year-old son of popular McLaren Vale winemaker Michael Valley. He succeeds Stuart Bourne. Fragos (Chapel Hill) and his wife Marianne, was diagnosed with Rowe has had 20-years in the wine a rare and very aggressive cancer, the local wine community industry, with spells at some of responded, crafting a wine to raise funds for Archie’s treatment. Australia’s top wine companies, Fellow Chapel Hill winemaker Bryn Richards made phone calls to including Domaine Chandon, seven local winemakers. Result: seven barrels of the best of their Hardy’s Tintara, Mitchelton and 2014 vintage were promised to help create a fund-raising blend. Sevenhill Cellars. “Neville’s wealth The Archibald was beginning to take shape. The 2014 Archibald and breadth of luxury brand experience is exactly what we have is a blend of grenache, shiraz, mourvedre and tempranillo put been looking for to take us even further up the winemaking ladder together with assistance from Hardys Tintara, d’Arenberg, Wirra in Australia and overseas,” says Chateau Tanunda proprietor John Wirra Wines, Samuel’s Gorge, Vinrock, SC Pannell, Hickinbotham Geber. “Neville has made some of the best ultra-premium wines in Vineyards, Torresan Estate and Serafino Wines, among others. the country, including Eileen Hardy, Chateau Reynella and Tintara. Local artists, label designers and printers also chipped in, and This talent is vital as we pursue our vision of becoming ‘Australia’s Archie and his siblings sat down at the dinner table to work on First Growth’. With 125 years of winemaking history, many legends their own masterpieces. These art works have been converted have honed their craft here and I am sure he will more than live up into contemporary and stylish label sets. Numerous individuals to his predecessors’ achievements. His international experience in have contributed their time and talents to help Archie’s fight and Burgundy, Champagne, Argentina and California gives a valuable all proceeds are dedicated to aiding him and his family. For more extra dimension to Chateau Tanunda, which does 70 per cent of information or to buy the wine ($25 a bottle with a minimum buy of its business overseas.” six if it has not sold out) visit www.thearchibald.com.au. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 15

briefs together with Haigh’s and Coopers to celebrate the Haigh family’s centenary is a pleasure knowing that our families have been friends for many generations. We are proud of all that we have achieved in our 166 years of family winemaking and we continue to look at new ways to collaborate with those around us. Combined, there is more than 400 years of history, hard work and success at Yalumba, Haigh’s and Coopers - something of which we should all be extremely proud.” The Collaboration can be purchased at Haigh’s Chocolates stores in Adelaide, Sydney and Melbourne and online at www.haighschocolates.com. (RRP $39.75) NORTON DOES IT AGAIN NEW Zealand’s wine brand Invivo Wine has partnered with talk show personality Graham WINNING COLLABORATION Norton to create the second Graham Norton Sauvignon Blanc, which is available in TAKE Haigh’s Chocolates (Australia’s oldest family-owned chocolate maker), add Yalumba (Australia’s oldest family-owned Australia for the first time. In 2014, Norton winery) and Coopers (Australia’s oldest family-owned brewery) rolled his trouser legs up and personally and you have a very indulgent box of chocolates. The three multi- stomped a barrel of New Zealand grapes on generational, family-owned businesses have unveiled a unique set his popular TV show to help create his own of chocolates to be known as The Collaboration, a special hand- limited edition sauvignon blanc. The sell-out made box containing several of each of three special chocolates. success led to another wine in 2015. “Graham The distinctive box features a large ornate “C” that incorporates is a huge Invivo fan and our dealings with cocoa pods, grape vines and hops, an illustrative representation him have shown us he really knows wine. So of the three businesses. “We thought it was fitting to launch this this year we thought we would put him in the special project during our centenary year - a milestone we now driver’s seat,” says Invivo winemaker Rob share with both companies and the new truffle is in fact also our Cameron. The entire Invivo wine blending set- centenary chocolate, and this is its first release,” said Haigh’s up was flown from Marlborough to London so Chocolates CEO Alister Haigh. “The three chocolates were Norton could blend his own wine from scratch, developed over a 12-month period, with our product development with expert guidance by Cameron. The 2015 team working in close collaboration with key people from Coopers Graham Norton’s Own Sauvignon Blanc is and Yalumba.” Yalumba proprietor Robert Hill Smith said: “To join available in Australia now. wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 16 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

briefs FAKING IT WRITTEN by wine writer Katherine Cole, How to Fake Your Way Through a Wine List is an image-led guide to the world’s 75 most prominent wine regions and styles. Packed with mnemonic devices and colourful photos that help retain information, the book is designed to ease the embarrassment of those who know very little about wine. Chapters include: Learn The Lingo, with wine appreciation terms and Embrace the Unknown, which takes readers “to meet the unsung regions and unknown grape varieties that will be tomorrow’s A LIFETIME OF CHANGE superstars.” How to Fake Your Way through a Wine List is available from www.exislepublishing.com.au, and wherever good books are WHEN Andrew and Jane Mitchell started making wine in the Clare sold. RRP $19.99 Valley 40 years ago there were only a handful of vignerons in the region. Now they look back on just how much has changed over NEW DOOR OPENS four decades in the business. The Mitchells have four vineyards ranging in altitude from 300-450m above sea level and are a real PASSING Clouds vineyard in the Macedon Ranges welcomes family business, with all three of their now adult children having a new addition - a cellar door kitchen. “We hope to be serving returned home from various adventures to join the family business. simple, delicious, seasonal and regional food,” says winemaker Their vines range from five to 55 years of age with a focus on Cameron Leith, son of founder Graeme Leith. The Leiths moved riesling, semillon, shiraz, grenache and cabernet sauvignon. All to Musk, a high altitude vineyard at Musk, near Daylesford, after the Mitchell wines are “dry-grown, hand-picked, hand-made and years of vineyard decline due to climate change at their Bendigo estate-bottled”. The estate range is complemented by the McNicol property. Leith planted chardonnay and pinot noir in 1998 and range of wines that are released as mature bottles, but will improve following the death of his Passing Clouds co-owner, Sue McKinnon with further cellaring. And while they do not advertise it, or seek in 2010, he and Cameron finally made the break and moved to accreditation, the Mitchells follow organic principles in both their the Macedon Ranges. vineyards and winery. “Basically we are farming the way my father The new cellar door kitchen overlooks a tranquil dam with views used to farm, long before anyone made a fuss about organics,” across to the dramatically rising Fools On The Hill vineyard. Andrew Mitchell said. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 17

briefs GROWING FEAR OVER EL NINO BUREAU of Meteorology predictions that the developing El Nino weather system off Australia’s east coast could be the most “significant ever,” are worrying Australian winegrowers in the lead up to the 2016 vintage. Lower rainfall is expected in the eastern states in the crucial period leading up to budburst, with South Australia’s BOM acting regional director John Nairn suggesting the new weather pattern is going to challenge the 1997 El Nino, which was “the largest we have ever seen”. An exceptionally dry spring can bring severe frosts at the most important time for the development of new shoots, reducing potential crop or destroying emerging buds. The 1997 El Nino contributed to a long-running drought, which brought with it frosts, empty dams and at the height of harvest in summer, blistering heat and potential bushfires with the accompanying risk of smoke taint. Australian winegrowers will be on high alert over the coming months but, ultimately, their fate rests with El Nino. PUSH FOR EQUALITY THE ongoing quest for marriage equality has led Heartland Wines’ Nick Keukenmeester to release a special wine celebrating the story of two alternative grape varieties “married” in Australia. “Marriage equality is an issue of great importance to the Heartland team, not just from a personal perspective but because it is so obviously unfair and so very easy to resolve,” says MD Keukenmeester. Together with winemaker Ben Glaetzer, he has produced a blended wine of Italian grapes dolcetto from the Piemonte and Alto Adige’s lagrein. “Under Italian DOC rules it is not possible to marry grapes from different regions,” Keukenmeester says. “Ben thought differently and could see that these two grapes completed one another and that this union should be acknowledged.” Heartland will donate $1 to Australian Marriage Equality from the sale of every NOT ONE OF THE GREATS bottle of Heartland dolcetto and lagrein. Money raised will go to LONG-TIME Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago admits that the group’s campaign urging a national vote on marriage equality. the newly released 2011 Grange ($785) is not one of the greats. “Not trying too hard to be something it isn’t,” is how the winemaker FEELING THE PAIN sums up a wine that, while lacking its usual concentrated intensity, has a certain charm and is surprisingly approachable. The 2011 THE recent Winemakers’ Federation of Australia 2015 Vintage vintage in South Australia was generally cool and wet, bringing Report has confirmed what many already know painfully well, with it the pressure of disease and forcing Gago to look to warmer that 85 per cent of the Australian 2015 wine grape harvest was regions and sites for sourcing grapes. He opted for three regions, produced at a loss. far less than usual: Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and the home The bad news continues with 92 per cent of wine production in the vineyard at Magill Estate. The reliable warmth has helped produce warmer inland regions of the Riverland and Sunraysia considered a satisfying, generous wine. “That’s winemaking, it ebbs and flows, unprofitable. good and bad vintages,” Gago says. “For us, pretty much, we “The experiences of warm inland regions continues to be very can’t complain. We had a lot of rain before my time in ’69, more challenging, and we must never forget that behind each of these rain I think than what we got in 2011.” Contrary to some reports, statistics lies a small business and a family,” says WFA chief Gago stresses that Grange is not being exported in huge numbers executive Paul Evans. The 2015 wine grape harvest weighed in at to China to feed a hungry wine market. “We don’t sell that much 1.67 million tonnes, just below the eight-year average of 1.7 million Grange in China, that (the suggestion) is a bit overcooked,” he tonnes. Evans has warned the industry that it needs to address says. And anyway, the Chinese prefer cabernet sauvignon wines. failing international wine sales and urgently. “Let’s not sugar coat “Australia still gets more than its share,” he adds. it, the world has fallen out of favour with Australian wine,” he says. 18 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

briefs A RIVAL FOR SHIRAZ CHESTER Osborn at d’Arenberg Wines is predicting a big Australian future for the Italian red grape, sagrantino. “Sagrantino will one day rival shiraz for best variety in McLaren Vale,” he says flatly. The hardy, tannic red grape hails from Umbria in central Italy but is now grown in McLaren Vale and reveling in the region’s Mediterranean climate. Osborn has 1.2ha in the ground and sources another 2.4ha from growers. Oliver’s Taranga and Coriole also have sagrantino planted. D’Arenberg blends sagrantino with cinsault under The Cenosilicaphobic Cat label, but Osborn would eventually like to keep it as a separate, stand alone wine. As for the grape’s gripping tannin, he says: “I have never been shy of tannin.” The flamboyant winemaker was talking at the Melbourne tasting of just a few of his company’s 67 wine labels, bringing with him, as always, a big black bag of props representing the different wines, from the Olive Farm (a tin of olives) to The Feral Fox (a stuffed toy) to The Lucky Lizard (a plastic lizard). “Some of these have been on a thousand air flights with me,” he says. “People always say they love the humour. They want to be entertained but I think they probably think I’m a bit weird.” Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 19

eur opean report WORDS SALLY EASTON MW ALTERNATIVES’ QUEUING FOR THEIR TIME IN THE SUN WHEN the top five most planted grape A cursory glance at the top five list ability to produce dense, rich, full-bodied, varieties in Australia (shiraz, cabernet highlights the origin for all of them is that age-worthy reds with elevated levels of sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, sauvignon most historically famous of all wine growing natural acidity, has already encouraged blanc) account for nearly 75 per cent of the countries, France (cabernet sauvignon, one or two Australian producers to plant it. country’s total vineyard area, it’s no wonder merlot, sauvignon blanc – Bordeaux; White variety fiano is also already finding there’s a growing interest in alternative chardonnay – Burgundy; shiraz/syrah – favour in Australia, with plantings not far varieties. Rhone). Even pinot noir claims Burgundy behind those in the variety’s homeland Apart from Aussie home-grown cultivars as its home. of Campania. Again, heat resistance is such as tarrango, cienna and taminga, the It’s typically outside of France that the combined with the ability to produce floral vast majority of these so-called alternatives biggest opportunity to discover “new” and peachily-aromatic wines with body (as well as the top five) have their home in grape varieties exists. Italy has long been and freshness. Europe. No surprise there, really. known to grow several hundred different North-west Spain is the current hot-spot for The Australian Alternative Varieties (re) discovery of alternative varieties. Right Wine Show has a pretty broad church to North-west Spain is the on the Atlantic coast is the home of albarino describe what qualifies as “alternative” in (Rias Baixas appellation). Just across the Australia - “the opposite of mainstream and current hot-spot for (re) border in Portugal it is known as alvarinho. extensively planted”, but that’s as good a This variety has gained popularity because place as any to start. discovery of alternative it also combines freshness and vivacity Under those rules, Europeans would with complex floral and fruity flavours. not consider at all alternative some of the varieties. When aged on lees for some years, it varieties “allowed”. The likes of sangiovese can add richly sweet-pastry notes to the (the most planted grape variety in Italy, with grape varieties and Spain, more recently, flavour spectrum and additional depth and breadth to the structure. Albarino has the equivalent of about half the total Aussie is becoming a fount of rediscovered been mainstream in Europe for a number vineyard area, and the mainstay of all the indigenous cultivars. Portugal, too, has of years, which may partially explain its key Tuscany appellations - Chianti, Chianti a wealth of absolutely un-famous grape growing diaspora, including to Australia Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, among varieties, despite it being the 11th largest where the mislabelling of imported cuttings others); tempranillo (the most planted red wine producing country in the world, in the 2000s meant the variety actually variety in Spain, with more hectares than making about half as much as Australia imported was savagnin. the entire Aussie vineyard area and the (in sixth position globally). These rather A little further inland from Rias Baixas, at mainstay of many Spanish appellations, mainstream countries are becoming a the southernmost end of the Cantabrian including Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, deep vein of varieties newly tried on the mountains, are the appellations of Bierzo, Navarra etc), cabernet franc (the “third” international stage. And given that parts of Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras. All three variety in Bordeaux), gamay (Beaujolais), all three countries delimit the warm, western have white godello and black mencia as even things like gewurztraminer (Alsace), Mediterranean, their climate adaptations their mainstays. and gruner veltliner (Austria) are probably are probably something useful for Australia. A revitalisation of this area was mainstream in Europe - if niche. “New,” to a 21st century foraging undoubtedly helped by renowned Palacios Nonetheless, there is a similar trend in consumer they may be, but all these family from Rioja (Bodegas Palacios European markets for more niche, esoteric, “alternative” varieties form the bedrock Remondo). Alvaro had been among the unusual, less obvious wines. However we of traditional appellations. In the hills group of original kickstarters of Priorat, in want to phrase it. Something different. behind Naples, Italy has some high north-eastern Spain, in the early 1990s, Something other than wines from the big, quality alternatives in aglianico (Aglianico with L’Ermita. Younger brother Raphael is famous, (now) international cultivars. Some del Vulture/Taurasi), and fiano (Fiano di making top quality godello from his property consumers are looking for different flavour Avellino). Aglianico was first recorded in Valdeorras (Raphael Palacios), a place and style experiences, they may be bored in 1520, fiano even earlier in 1240, so he’s been for more than 10 years. It has with the main grapes and are willing to take neither are actually new kids on the block. already been likened to white burgundy. a risk and dig a little deeper. Aglianico’s love of a warm climate and Godello is another high acid grape variety, 20 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

this time not especially aromatic, but with an affinity to oak. This is not the only Palacios connection to the region. Alvaro and his nephew Ricardo established a business in the nearby appellation of Bierzo (Descendientes de J. Palacios). This one focusing on black grape variety mencia, especially making wines from old vines settled into the schist soils of the appellation. These make concentrated wines, still aromatic, and this time, ripeness tends to be a careful juggling act with acidity, which can drop off quickly. These grape varieties are also well known domestically in Portugal. Albarinho is alvarinho. Mencia is known as both jaen and loureiro tinto, and it is mostly found in Dao. Godello is known as gouveio in the Douro. But Portugal has its “own” exciting “discoveries”, too. Touriga nacional is an important variety in port production and has increasingly been used to make high quality table wine. In this hot climate touriga nacional is both able to ripen its plentiful tannins, keep a floral component to its fruit composition and retain acidity. Incidentally, touriga nacional is one of the parents of Aussie-bred tarrango (the other being the more modest sultana). Trincadeira is another black grape that works well in dry, warm climates, not least because it’s prone to dampness-induced diseases. It’s more supple of tannin than touriga nacional and is also full bodied, with rich, berry fruits and well-retained acidity. Yorke Peninsula’s It also is a small component in the port vineyards of the Douro (as tinta amarela), award winning but it’s more widely planted in the dry south vineyard of Portugal. It’s not unknown in Australia. Europe has a not-quite-endless supply of grape varieties other than the famous five. That Australia catches all these under the moniker “alternative varieties” must be taking off – it has its own entry in the new edition of the Oxford Companion to Wine. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 21

wine t utor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY RICH REWARDS ALONG PATHS LESS TRAVELLED INCREASINGLY I’m looking for wines and owner of Born and Raised Wines, goes The lovely perfumed, smoky, savoury Burg that swim against the tide. Something further than most by fermenting the wine 2010 from a lieu dit close to the village of that isn’t mainstream, but without sailing in contact with its skins (like a red wine) Bergheim has 13 grapes in it. He pursues into unchartered waters of neglectful and then leaving it on skins for 72 days. vineyard terroir and is outspoken about it. winemaking or deliberate oxidation. A wine “I saw how good the variety can be when “If you don’t understand terroir then just that is still well made, but above all delivers not pushed into the now considered normal drink Coca Cola,” I was told on my last visit. on texture, flavour and intensity, especially commercial style,” comments Messum. Field blends are not common in Australia on the palate. A unique wine crafted without “The skin contact adds a new level of but the concept is being pursued by the the use of lashings of alcohol and new oak. texture and aroma to the wines; it’s an likes of Conor van der Reest at Moorilla You might think sauvignon blanc wouldn’t amber wine without the oxidisation and this Estate in Tasmania. His Cloth Label White, feature in an article about left-field highlights the Sunbury region’s relatively for example, sees a blend of five whites and wines. Led by New Zealand’s mammoth cool climate, pristine fruit well.” He is even a red grape in the same blend. Whites are Marlborough region they are the epitome playing with longer skins contact; the 2014 again fermented on skins. of technically sound, clean, cool-fermented Experimentation is all the craze at the wines produced by university-educated moment and doing something different winemakers. But I’m not excited by this. It’s on the cusp of with riesling is popular. That can range What I’m looking for, instead, is a wine with from leaving a slug of residual sugar in a hint of that distinctive methoxy pyrazine becoming more than a it or putting the wine into oak. The 2014 nose, to tell me I’m drinking a sauvignon Jamsheed Harem Series Le Blanc Plonk, blanc, but also complexity, weight and novelty or sommelier for example, is a barrel fermented riesling texture on the palate, which is definitely favourite. from Victoria that spends eight to 10 months not the norm. Often these wines have been on lees. It’s exotic and textured, and stands barrel fermented and matured in oak, and up to Asian cuisine well. could be a blend of sauvignon blanc and wine has seen 104 days. But he says it is Turning to red wines there is nebbiolo. semillon. Basically a classy white bordeaux still “clean, fresh with balanced acidity to They seem to be popping up everywhere blend notably in the Pessac-Leognan style. the phenolic texture. Those that say ‘I hate and although they can be high in alcohol In Australia and leading by a country mile sav blanc’ normally love this wine”. and tannic as hell, it has not stopped a is a wine from Domaine A. Owner and Multi varietal blends are another avenue growing band of producers in bringing winemaker Peter Althaus started making his to explore. But I’m suspicious when labels them to market. I consider them left field Lady A sauvignon blanc way back in 1991. say it’s a blend of chardonnay, semillon, because I’m not convinced they have been It’s 100 per cent barrel fermented in new riesling and viognier, and until convinced I embraced by the public, but Messum is a French barriques and left on fine lees for a surmise it to be a tank “leftover” wine. I want fan. “It’s misunderstood and that’s perhaps year. The lees note comes through so much to encourage blends only when “the whole a reason I wanted to try and make a more than the oak, which I think is the key. is greater than the sum of its parts”. I’m varietally correct Australian version. I love On the palate it is powerful and racy with intrigued when I see the words “field blend” the aroma, palate profile and unashamedly all natural acidity and extremely textured. It on the label. These are wines that have unique hallmarks of firm fine tannin and long is one of the few sauvignon blancs that you come from a vineyard with mixed plantings. acidity,” he said. “In the last year alone we can safely cellar for 10 years and beyond. A classic example can be found in Alsace, are seeing a swell of interest in Australian Skin contact is another trick to add texture with the wines of Marcel Deiss. You simply nebbiolo, although the general public still to the palate. David Messum, winemaker don’t ask him what grapes go into his wines. looks for examples that are bigger, rounder 22 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

and closer to shiraz. However there is a raft of producers making better, lighter styles. It’s on the cusp of becoming more than a novelty or sommelier favourite.” Nebbiolo is grown around the country, with some hot spots like the Adelaide Hills. Messum sources his fruit from Heathcote and some people would say it is too hot for the variety. He thinks otherwise. “Other than a few 40˚c days that is not entirely true. New vineyard management such as moving the fruiting wires to gain more shade helps the variety in its long, slow ripening and Heathcote has some older vine material on original rootstock.” Staying on an Italian theme there is Dr Brian Freeman’s outstanding and well-established wine Secco, a blend of rondinella and corvina grapes. It’s Australia’s only plantings so that is rare in itself, but then a proportion of the grapes are given the Australian version of Amarone treatment and are placed in a neighbour’s prune dehydrator to concentrate flavour and change the structure of the tannins in the seeds. The result is delicious. You don’t have to be on the edge of winemaking or growing obscure (for VISIT US. Australia) varieties to be left field. I’ve EXPERIENCE THE enjoyed mainstream wine styles in WHOLE RANGE. unexpected places. I most recently recall, dare I say, enjoying a pinot noir from the Hunter Valley and loving Tasmanian shiraz. The latter I suspect is going to be one of Australia’s stars of the future and another story. www.gartelmann.com.au 701 Lovedale Road, Lovedale Hunter Valley, NSW 2320, Australia Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 23

wine tra v el WORDS ELISABETH KING CALIFORNIA CALLING CALIFORNIA is a major magnet for Aussie disappointed not to see a red diamond Urban America seems light years away as travellers and wine tourists. Over 500,000 rattlesnake (or maybe not) or a roadrunner you drive through the park, momentarily of us cross the Pacific each year, but it’s on a recent visit but there were plenty of taking your eyes off the road to gaze up at time to ditch the false impression that golden eagles, iguanas and mule deer. the world’s tallest trees. You can’t miss an California is all about Hollywood, theme The California Gold Rush kicked off elk sighting because it’s usually preceded parks, the Napa and Sonoma valleys and at Sutter’s Mill on the American River in by a whistling bugle cry that can be heard big business. There’s more than 400,000 1848. Most people come here for a rush for kilometres. Originally built for sawmill square kilometres of the Golden State to of another kind these days - adrenalin - workers, the renovated Elk Meadow Cabins explore and plenty more wine regions to to book a rafting trip on the South Fork are close to Lady Bird Johnson Grove, a learn about. American, the most popular stretch of bucket list-worthy stand of redwoods. A Anza Borrego Desert State Park, a whitewater in California. short drive away in the town of Klamath 200,000ha sprawl of sand, rock and where the listings at Pey-Mey Express cactus tailor-made for die-hard road trip Sacramento, the state Chester’s Chicken are finger-lickin’ good. enthusiasts is only a two-hour drive from Make a detour to Eureka, the westernmost San Diego. Made up of 800km of dirt roads, capital, is the best place city in the US, where the ornate Victoria a web of hiking trails and 12 wilderness mansions tell the story of the town’s 19th areas, the park is named after Spanish to bed down and dine, century dependence on “King Timber”. explorer Juan Bautista de Anza and the Drop by for a beer at The Lost Coast Spanish word “borrego” for the bighorn and there are over Brewery & Bar and an exceptional meal at sheep that call this spectacular wedge of the Brick & Fire Bistro. California desert home. 200 wineries within a I discovered Shasta Lake a couple of There’s no question of roughing it, though. The desert begins just west of the resort one-hour drive. years ago when I was writing a story town of Borrego Springs with its groomed about the celebrations planned to mark golf courses and plush hotels such as La the centenary of Woody Guthrie’s birth. Sacramento, the state capital, is the best Casa del Zorro and the revamped Palm place to bed down and dine, and there The fabled singer-songwriter spent much Canyon Hotel and RV Resort. Like Palm are over 200 wineries within a one-hour of the 1930s in California and wrote This Springs, the town was once a bolthole drive. For the best of “New American” Land Is Your Land, the unofficial American for Hollywood stars and many of them menus, book a table at Mulvaney’s B&L, anthem, while working on the construction ate at The Coyote Steakhouse. Mexican The Firehouse Restaurant and Grange of Shasta Dam. The resulting lake is the food is the major drawcard at Pablito’s of Restaurant & Bar, serving paddock-to-plate largest reservoir in California and calls itself the Desert, Jilberto’s Taco Shop and the and seasonal craft cocktails. A Sinatra the “houseboating capital of the world”. boisterous Carmelita’s Mexican Grill. soundtrack, 1950’s decor, martinis and It’s no idle boast. You can hire a houseboat Anza Borrego’s wildflower season is Scotch-on-the-rocks keep the crowds from one of 10 marinas around the lake’s Southern California’s version of Groundhog coming at The Back Door Lounge bar. 587km shoreline from plush yachts with Day. From March, great swathes of brittle Just shy of the Oregon stateline is Prairie staterooms and jacuzzis to tarp-covered bush, popcorn flowers, desert lilies and Creek Redwoods State Park - one of the fishermen’s motorboats. Fishing is big sunflowers erupt around each dusty last strongholds of the Roosevelt Elk, the business with a small army of male-only bend. There’s plenty of wildlife, too. I was largest elk species in North America. groups casting their lines for bass, sturgeon 24 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

and catfish. If time is limited, head for the Shasta Wine Village to taste a wide variety of regional bottlings. The Old Thyme B&B in Redding features beautifully restored Victorian cottages and continues the retro-hip trend with superbly prepared homemade biscuits and authentic sausage gravy at the Old Mill Eatery. There’s never a dull moment at Lake Tahoe - summer or winter. The 116km drive around the lake’s rim is touted as the most beautiful drive in America and on any day the sun shines off the crystal-clear waters it’s impossible to disagree. Skiers converge on the area in winter and the tech and private equity booms have prompted a glut of lush lakefront mansions that have turned Lake Tahoe into the California equivalent of The Hamptons in summer. There are luxury hotels to match, including the Ritz-Carlton, The Cedar House Sport Hotel and The Landing Resort & Spa. There are also hundreds of restaurants, ranging from pizza bars that make their own micro- brews to fine dining meccas such as Trokay and Stella, the waterfront Lone Eagle Grille and Bar and Christy Hill. The Eldorado wine region just west of South Lake Tahoe has more than 40 wineries. Don’t miss Wofford Acres where the tasting room sports spectacular views of the American River Canyon. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 25

wine histor y WORDS VALMAI HANKEL ANDRE SIMON VISITS NEW ZEALAND (PART TWO) OCTOGENARIAN French gastronome society members - Irene and Joe Wilson. The next day’s meals were a little less Andre Simon visited New Zealand in Simon waxed lyrical about the grounds spectacular. Simon and his NZ guide and February 1964 after a hectic seven- and home, which were set high on a cliff friend Frank Thorpy returned to Henderson weeks tour of Australia where he was overlooking the entrance to Auckland to visit Dudley Russell’s Western Vineyard. gathering information for a book on Harbour, complete with a Japanese garden Again, Simon was carried away by the Australia’s vineyards and winemakers. and rare trees. “It had been transformed scenery, describing the vineyard as “by He may have intended to write a book into fairyland by electric bulbs for the no means the largest but certainly the most on New Zealand wines but did not – we’ll evening,” he noted approvingly. He was beautiful and picturesque that I have seen look at the reasons later. impressed that the meal, which had in New Zealand and Australia”. Russell His two-weeks tour of NZ was just been described as a buffet dinner, was had established his vineyard in 1932 and as hectic as his time in Australia, with “remarkable for its variety and originality”. later planted an award-winning Japanese engagements for both lunch and dinner, The evening began with Moet & Chandon garden. and occasionally breakfast, on most days. 1955, served outdoors. The dishes were Simon and Thorpy were back in Auckland On February 7, Simon’s third day in NZ, in time for lunch at home. The simple meal he returned to Henderson, at that time the Simon waxed lyrical about of raw fish in lemon juice followed by ripe country’s most important vine growing and peaches must have been a relief to Simon. winemaking district, to visit the area’s oldest the grounds and home, But they had to open a bottle of 1952 Moet winery, Mount Lebanon. He was proudly to celebrate the news from London that the shown around by members of the Corban which were set high on Queen had appointed Simon an honorary family. The district’s first vines were planted Commander of the British Empire. That and Mount Lebanon built in 1902 by the a cliff overlooking the evening they went to Le Gourmet, the family patriarch Assid Corban. His sons and restaurant which had earlier provided the grandsons had considerably increased the entrance to Auckland lunch at Mount Lebanon. “The fare was size of both the vineyards and the cellar, of the simplest,” recorded Simon. They and had also installed the latest and best Harbour, complete with could have had a banquet but instead winemaking equipment. Over lunch in the chose avocado pear, whitebait washed winery, provided by a leading Auckland a Japanese garden and down with Pradel Blanc de Blancs, then restaurant Le Gourmet, Simon tasted rare trees. cheese soufflé with a bottle of 1953 Cos several NZ wines. All were from Mount d’Estournel, followed by fruit, with 1955 Lebanon Vineyards – “Palomino Flor Sherry Ayala. Simon, as so often, drank French and Palomino Flor Fino Sherry, Pinot 1961, “smoked snapper roe on toast, scallops in wines instead of the local product, perhaps Riesling 1963, Claret 1960, Cabernet 1961, the shell turned in butter, whitebait fritters, making a silent protest about the latter’s Premiere Cuvee Sparkling Dry. Medium mussels cocktail, smoked eel poached in quality. and Rouge”. He was circumspect in his local white wine, venison casseroled in On February 9 Simon enjoyed a “first- comments: “I found the Riesling 1963 local red wine, crumbed lamb cutlets, cold class breakfast” at the Sacre Coeur and the Cabernet 1961 better than any of roast wild pork with apple sauce, beetroot Convent. For lunch at home, Thorpy the other wines”. The meal consisted of marinated in lemon juice and honey, roast introduced him to what was considered a Toheroa chowder; Nelson scallops tartare, kumara (a Maori name for sweet potato) Maori delicacy - the mutton bird. Simon was fillets of flounders Coromandel, steamed wrapped in bacon, tomatoes stuffed with appalled, describing it as “a briny horror parsley potatoes, green asparagus, NZ mushroom, fresh corn on the cob, green which I was glad to meet for the first and cheeses and coffee. The chef was Le asparagus and mayonnaise, NZ cheese last time; the Maoris catch fledglings of sea Gourmet’s Michael Marcinkowski. board and fresh fruit”. As he said: “A birds in the nest, all bones and fat, steep As if that were not enough for one day, that memorable meal, indeed”. In fact it was them and preserve them in brine”. He had evening Simon attended “a very special apparently so memorable that the starter a suggestion for their use: “It is the sort of meeting” of the Auckland Wine and Food wine is the only wine he mentioned in his fare brewers might recommend should the Society. It was held at the home of two account of the occasion. demand for beer decline”. 26 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015



MASTER OF HIS CRAFT After more than six decades of championing the production of gold-medal-winning Australian riesling, John Vickery is ready to start a new chapter in his life. NIGEL HOPKINS HE might have won more than 50 trophies and some 400 gold medals, mostly for the riesling that he’s made over the past 60 years, but if there’s one thing John Vickery is not, he’s no wine snob. When he comes in for lunch with his wife Mary, in the comfortable timber-lined kitchen of their home near Marananga in the Barossa Valley, it’s always over a glass of riesling – and right now his vin du jour, or house wine, is the 2015 Jacob’s Creek Riesling. At less than $9 a bottle it’s a far cry, in price anyway, from the top rieslings, many of which have been inspired by Vickery over his long career, but he points out that this is part of the magic of riesling - it doesn’t always have to be expensive to be good. The 2015 Jacobs Creek Riesling happened to take out the Top Gold at this year’s Royal Adelaide Wine Show with 18.8 points, out-pointing many more prestigious labels, including Vickery’s own latest venture, the low volume Vickery Eden Valley Riesling, that came in half a dozen places behind. For Vickery, who has just turned 83, this wine and the larger volume Vickery Watervale Riesling mark a second coming for a winemaker who’s been both the philosophical and practical driving force behind some of the greatest rieslings ever made in Australia. Just over a decade ago a panel of 50 of Australia’s leading wine experts proclaimed Vickery to be the greatest living Australian winemaker. 28 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015



It is amazing the attention we gave and the results we accomplished with such basic equipment. Vickery won the first gold medals for his riesling at the 1963 Adelaide Wine Show, the start of many more to come. “When I look back,” Vickery says, “it is amazing the attention we gave and the results we accomplished with such basic equipment.” It is less well known that Vickery, while working for Lindemans at Coonawarra in 1981, also won Australia’s greatest accolade for a red wine, the Jimmy Watson Trophy, for his 1980 St George Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. “Lindemans used to move people around,” Vickery says, which was why he found himself in Coonawarra. Many young winemakers, having won a Jimmy Watson, might well have envisaged a successful career making red wine, but Lindemans had other ideas and the following year “Vickery has shaped and defined the growers and Buring’s own 28ha vineyards moved Vickery back to the Barossa as best Australian riesling, inspired young at Tanunda and 32ha at the Florita vineyard manager/winemaker for Leo Buring and winemakers and set the most exacting at Watervale. Chateau Leonay. standards,” according to The Age Despite the relatively primitive winemaking “It was a very bad time in the industry, newspaper, which conducted the poll. equipment available, with no temperature both for growers and winery staff, with “Vickery’s obsessiveness is part of his control, and phenolic and oxidised wines, lots of retrenchments,” Vickery says. He greatness, his renowned attention to the Vickery helped make a success of one of remained there until 1991, when it was smallest detail an important reason behind Buring’s most popular wines, Rinegolde, a closed down following Penfolds acquisition his success as a winemaker, especially moselle-style of wine made from the typical of Lindemans. Vickery took a retirement with riesling, a wine that lives or dies on white grape varieties of the day such as package that he didn’t particularly want, its fruit quality and careful handling. He is pedro, tokay, madiera and trebbiano. and worked as a consultant to Southcorp. Australia’s greatest riesling master.” It was here that he became aware of The wine industry wheel continued to turn Little wonder, then, that wine writer James advances being made in white winemaking and in 1993 the Chateau Leonay winery - Halliday once observed that if Vickery technology by pioneers such as Orlando’s but not the brand - was bought by Orlando had made his mark with shiraz rather than Colin Gramp. In 1962 the winery was Wyndham and renamed Richmond Grove, riesling, he would surely have basked in the bought by Lindemans, which invested using a Hunter Valley brand name they’d same glory as Max Schubert, the creator of heavily in modern winemaking equipment acquired, which lacked a winery. Vickery Penfolds Grange. and provided Vickery with the tools he was invited to return to the winery he knew After graduating from Roseworthy College needed to produce great riesling - air bag so well and to develop Richmond Grove as in 1955, Vickery joined Chateau Leonay in presses and refrigeration, coupled with a premium brand. Tanunda, owned by Sydney wine merchant the liberal use of ascorbic acid and inert As production increased, the main white Leo Buring. At that time the winery crushed gas blanketing to reduce oxidisation and winemaking operation was moved to around 1000 tonnes from both private improve retention of fruit flavour. Orlando’s Rowland Flat winery, but for a 30 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

The wine John is drinking is the 1998 Richmond Grove Riesling, which pioneered the second and successful move to use screw cap closures – he described it as having “honeyed, lemon butter characters, with intense flavour and the green/gold tinges that are the mark of a riesling that’s aged gracefully”. time Vickery kept on making riesling at acknowledge his debt to Vickery, believing vineyard and home, and have begun their Richmond Grove and, more importantly, he him to have had a “huge impact” on his move to a new home at Port Willunga. regained access to the wonderful fruit from winemaking. They’ll exit the Barossa next May and the Florita vineyard at Watervale, which had Vickery officially retired from Richmond that will be the end of one of the most been sold to Jim Barry Wines years before, Grove in 2009 at the age of 76. He’d remarkable eras in Australian winemaking. but whose fruit was now being bought by planted 4ha, mostly with shiraz, around his “He’ll miss it, but we have to realise the Orlando. heritage-listed house and looked forward time has come,” Mary says. That operation also moved to Rowland to a more leisurely life with Mary as grape With so many awards and accolades Flat after the 1998 vintage, which was the growers. The Hesketh family had other behind him, what new challenges yet year that Orlando reintroduced screw cap ideas. remain for Vickery? closures for its riesling, the first Australian This is the same family who’d once helped “Well, we’ve built a big shed with a winery to do so after the earlier attempt to out one of Vickery’s great mates, Peter temperature controlled cellar at Port introduce the closures in the late 1970s Lehmann, in that legendary story when Willunga,” he says. “The challenge now is had fizzled. Lehmann was told by investor owners to drink it all.” Now called Australia’s “father of riesling” Dalgetty to cut its Saltram winery’s growers who brought great rieslings to a new loose. Lehmann told Dalgetty to jump generation of drinkers, Vickery modestly and started Masterson Wines, which later puts it down to circumstance, and being became Peter Lehmann Wines. Honoured with the Wolf Blass in the right place at the right time. When the Hesketh-owned WD Winery, Award in 2007. In recognition of his unique contribution and setting the “We developed a very thorough system all which already had recruited Lehmann’s benchmark for development and aimed at preserving flavour,” he says. “We son Phil as chief winemaker, approached quality standards of winemaking in learned how to bottle our riesling with much Vickery about launching a brand under the riesling variety. less free sulphur than the normal industry his own name, with the opportunity to The Wolf Blass Foundation Trustees standard, resulting in much softer wines.” mentor Phil and pass on his extraordinary and the Canberra International The Clare Valley’s Jeffrey Grossett, now knowledge. It was an offer John Vickery Riesling Challenge, under the regarded as one of Australia’s finest riesling could scarcely refuse. Chairperson Ken Helm AM, have winemakers, once worked with Vickery Now there’s another move under way. fully endorsed his contribution. as a junior winemaker and is the first to John and Mary have sold their Marananga Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 31

MEET & TASTE DISCOVER 26-28 FEB S O U T H AU S T R AL I A’S B ES T I N T H E H E A R T O F T H E CI T Y ADEL AIDE CONVENTION CENTRE CELL ARDOORFESTIVAL.COM 18O Producers 3 Days 1 Roof tickets available online 32 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

Special Awards Feature 2015 Featuring the winners and placegetters for each varietal category from over 11,000 tasted throughout the year. Plus profiles of the Australian and New Zealand winemaker and wine company of the year.

THE JUDGING BEST OF THE BEST ANOTHER YEAR, another 11,000 wines Thirteen categories were judged this JUDGES judged. year, one less than last year, as we This year we judged wines from virtually decided to put the merlot wines into every region of Australia, and with the “Other Reds” category due to Michael Cooper’s panels, also in all previous results. This year we also New Zealand regions. A mighty task that presented the special Best Value Trophy involved a lot of work but work that we for highest quality wine at the lowest greatly enjoy. price, sponsored by Aldi. In what are regarded as difficult times We have no hesitation in recommending for wine producers, all around the these winning wines to you as worthy globe, no less in Australia and New world-class wines. We congratulate the Zealand, it seems astonishing that there place getters and winners, and thank is still so much wine around. However, all those who entered their wines in this even though Winestate is more useful “grand final” taste-off, along with our Phil Lehmann to producers in promoting their wines treasured category sponsors. And, of during the tough times, our role is not course, our thanks go out to the many to recommend every wine, but to judge expert judges who were involved in the the wines fairly under blind conditions, many tastings that were held around to deliver the best of the best to a most Australia and New Zealand during the discerning audience. year. We do this in this issue where wines that have been awarded four-and-a- Cheers and five-star ratings are returned for a “grand final” taste off by a panel of senior judges. The reason that the former wines Phil Reedman MW are included is that over the period of 12 months some wines improve and Peter Simic others fade. Wine judging is an art, Editor/Publisher not a science. Tasting results do vary according to context so we want to make Winestate Magazine would like to take this sure that all bases are covered and that opportunity to thank our major sponsors for no contender is overlooked. their ongoing support. This year we were pleased to have on board regular chairman, Stephen • Adelaide Convention Centre John, Pernod Ricard Technical Director, • DW Fox Tucker Bernard Hicken, regular panellist, • Hamburg Süd Bernard Hickin • Transtherm winemaker, Phil Lehmann and Master of Wine Phil Reedman. • Pulpit Cellars • APT As always the wines were judged blind • Italian Chamber of Commerce in their various category classes. The (Melbourne) judge’s task was to select their top five • Get Wines Direct wines in each category, and then to • Bang Packaging select a winner in each category. This • Brand South Australia was no mean feat as the quality level • Trenton / Luigi Bormioli across the board was superb and often • Aldi Stores it came down to individual preferences • Cotter House Stephen John for the champion wine in each group. • Orora Glass 34 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

CHAIRMAN’S THE CLASSES COMMENTS IN BRIEF SPARKLING CHARDONNAY An excellent diverse group of styles. A great class! One of the best The top wine being very complex line ups we have seen. Texture, with freshness and firmness, whilst elegance, complexity with astute the runner up was an elegant Blanc use of fine oak a feature. The de Blanc. The quality of the top end cooler areas are really showing Australian sparkling wines is quite the way. Top 3 wines unanimous astounding. by the judges. SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT NOIR Again we see the strength of This class always arouses great New Zealand with this varietal. A debate with the judges. Diversity compelling line up of great definition of winemaking techniques and and balance. growing districts being the key factors. Cool area fruit is PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO paramount with this varietal. A difficult varietal to achieve Texture, elegance and freshness distinctive style definition, however a feature of the top wines. regional influence appears to be minimal. Top 5 wines from 4 diverse SHIRAZ regions, displaying good fruit The two classic shiraz regions character, elegance and balanced of McLaren Vale and Barossa sweetness. again dominated the class. The 2013 vintage appears to be OTHER DRY WHITES surpassing the great 2012 vintage A very interesting class to judge. depth of bright fruit with generous Top wines very exciting being well structured palates enhanced with handled and displaying definitive balanced oak presence. varietal characters. Top wine – Schönburger, was a unanimous OTHER DRY REDS winner, outstanding! Top wine was a unanimous winner, being a classic Aussie shiraz RIESLING cabernet blend; the outstanding Two equal winners, one being a 2013 vintage wines dominated pristine current release and the the class. Varietal style definition other a complex bottle aged release of utmost importance in this class. – both outstanding in their own rights. Purity of fruit, freshness, CABERNET SAUVIGNON elegance and balance is essential. A very strong class of classic varietal wines. A diversity of SEMILLON styles. Top wines from several Again we see the strength of the diverse growing regions, showing Hunter with this wonderful varietal. excellent intensity and structure. Again 2009 leads the way, a great vintage. A pleasure to judge. Stephen John *All technical details for the Wine of the Year Special Feature are supplied directly from each winery. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 35

Best Never has one winery walked away with the Bunch trifecta of wine of the year, OF THE Australian winemaker of the year and best Australian wine company, until now. 36 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

AUSTRALIAN winemaker and wine company of the year JOY WALTERFANG THIS is a classic case of deja vu. Once trophies - but to make the very best wine Bird in Hand certainly has had a good run again we are writing about that little winery they possibly can; inevitably the trophies over the last few years with some terrific in the Adelaide Hills - that gold encrusted must follow. vintages - apart from 2011. There were no giant slayer - Bird in Hand. Why? Because According to Nugent, “Kym Milne is Nest Eggs, their premium range of wines, they’ve really done it this time. Not only the genius behind our wines”. And the made from that vintage. “If we don’t think have they taken out Winestate’s Wine of awards certainly did start flooding in after the quality is there we don’t bottle it, it is the Year for 2015 with their 2012 Nest he joined Bird in Hand. But according to that simple, although it is a hard decision Egg Chardonnay, their Chief Winemaker, Milne it’s, “Andrew’s absolute obsession to make financially,” Nugent said. Kym Milne is back-to-back winner of the with quality”, that is the key. What they do One thing you can safely bet on Nugent Australian Winemaker of the Year award both agree on is that they not only have a will never rest on his laurels content he and Bird in Hand has been named the very good friendship but also a fantastic has done the best he can. “With refined Best Australian Wine Company for 2015; working rapport. vineyard selection, new parcels of fruit it’s the trifecta of all trifectas and the first The first Bird in Hand wines were released and increased blending options there is time anyone has nailed all three awards in 2001 - all 600 cases of them. This year, plenty of room to continue improving and in one go. “An absolutely extraordinary 2015, the company produced 100,000 growing,” he said. achievement,” said Winestate Editor and cases and even though the winery now has Nugent is a qualified viticulturist and Publisher, Peter Simic. the capacity to produce at least 50 per cent winemaker, but before he graduated from Unfortunately we couldn’t get a response more than that, Nugent points out, “We are Roseworthy he had seriously considered from Bird in Hand’s Executive Director not volume driven, our core value is quality. social work as a career. That desire to help Andrew Nugent or Milne about how they We will never stop striving for excellence, others has manifested itself in the form of felt achieving this triple triumph because but of course volume is important for any the Bird in Hand Foundation which helps at the time of interviewing them they had business to remain viable”. the young, the underprivileged or those absolutely no idea they had. My brief was “keep schtum”. They would find out when the awards were presented, Logie style, in mid November. Naturally the pair were curious as to why Winestate wanted to talk to them again, when they had only just featured in our September/October issue with their ultra-prestige M.A.C. 2010 Shiraz winning Winestate’s World’s Greatest Shiraz and Syrah Challenge and their Bird in Hand Estate 2013 Shiraz the runner up. They cleaned up the iconic Aussie shiraz wines and trounced the French. A relatively small family winery, Bird in Hand has only been making wine for about 15 years, and yet, since 2006 they have collected 126 gold medals and trophies - nationally and internationally - for their wines, not including these last three awards from Winestate and no doubt they will have added a few others before this issue hits the streets. But is it that surprising? After all this is Bird in Hand’s mission in life - not to win Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 37

If we don’t think the quality is there we don’t and will eventually need more fruit, we trial a new vineyard or two each year and if they bottle it, it is that simple. are really good and suit what we are trying to achieve we bring them into the mix. “We are also very particular about the oak we use, it must be the very best available and we select our coopers very carefully. We crush all the fruit here at the winery to maintain control of the quality and keep the result from each vineyard separate. We also who just need that little extra helping hand. second person in Australia to become a ferment them separately and age them in Launched two years ago, the Foundation Master of Wine behind Michael Hill Smith. barrels separately. is really important to Nugent. “Contributing You will never hear this modest maker of “It is mainly Andrew and I who decide to the community is part of Bird in Hand’s wine singing his own praises. “Every body on wine styles, but planning the actual DNA,” he said. “We have always been makes wine out of grapes, every body winemaking is between our full-time active sponsors in local sport clubs and, uses barrels, every body ferments it, the winemaker Dylan Lee and me. Dylan wherever possible, employ the disabled. differences are subtle, it is all about the way has a winemaking degree from Western Being blessed with such outstanding staff you approach the whole package,” he said. Australia and, for experience, has done I am now able to spend a lot more of my “And unless you are a tiny operation it is several vintages overseas. His first vintage time focusing on the Foundation”. never one person responsible for the wine, at Bird in Hand was as a cellar hand but “Promoting South Australian culture it is a group of people. I have worked very we soon saw his potential and became our around the world is also important to us,” hard at winemaking over the years and assistant winemaker for the next four years. he continued. And nowadays you can find seen a lot of the wine world along the way.” Twelve months ago he moved into the role a little bit of South Australia and Bird in There was a time during his 10-year stint of winemaker.” Hand magic in the northeastern provinces as a consultant in Europe when Milne was So let’s take a look at this 2012 Nest Egg of China. overseeing the production of two million Chardonnay that this crack winemaking The company’s Chinese distributor has cases of wine around the world. team has produced. In its short life it has built four replicas of the winery’s cellar “I am really the consultant winemaker already been awarded three trophies and door to reproduce the feel and essence here at Bird in Hand, although they call four gold medals and is now Winestate’s of what Bird in Hand has created. “We are me their Chief Winemaker,” he said. “ I like Wine of the Year for 2015. delighted with the result,” Nugent said. consultancy because I like variety; I am not The fruit for this wine came from two When Milne joined Bird in Hand in 2003, good in a role where I am doing the same vineyards at Woodside and Balhannah, he had accumulated 23 years experience thing all the time over and over.” located in the more central, cooler part of making wine in Australia, New Zealand, As a consultant winemaker Milne doesn’t the Hills. The grapes were hand picked Europe, South America and South Africa, get down and dirty quite like he used to. early in the morning and not crushed, but and bore the letters MW (Master of Wine) “My role is more setting the styles we will be whole bunch pressed straight into new, one after his name. making, tasting the wines, sorting out any and two-year-old French oak barriques. Master of Wine is not something to be problems, mentoring our winemakers and They were then allowed to ferment on wild sneezed at. In 2015 there were only 340 of taking responsibility for the end product,” yeasts until dry, no cultured yeasts were them spread across 24 countries around he said. added. The barrels were stirred twice per the world and just 23 in Australia. “We want our wines to be the best week and allowed to go through malolactic This award was originally devised to example of place so we put a lot of time fermentation for 10 months. All batches improve the knowledge of people in the and energy into getting the very best fruit were kept separate until it was time to blend British wine and spirit trade, with the first we can. Good fruit is the most fundamental them and create that winning combination. examinations held in London in 1953; 21 thing in winemaking”. About 15 per cent “The Adelaide Hills Wine region can sat for them but only six passed, which of the fruit that goes into Bird in Hand is grow many varieties to elite levels, by just goes to show the rigorous demands grown in their own vineyards. In the long Australian standards, but it is our opinion required to achieve the qualification. term they may look at planting more, but as that chardonnay and shiraz are the two The Master of Wine degree wasn’t open Milne said: “We are very satisfied with the varieties from this region that can compete to winemakers and wine journalists until vineyards we have at the moment. We have at the pinnacle of world winemaking,” said 1984 and then from 1992 the course and a core of vineyards from where we always Nugent. examinations were also being held in contract our fruit, we never change that, it The fashion and trends of wine are Australasia and North America, the year ensures we have consistency. However, constantly changing and there has been Milne sat for his MW. He was only the because we have been growing steadily a definite revival of interest in chardonnay. 38 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

Australian Winemaker of the Year - FINALISTS - Shane Harris - Wines by Geoff Hardy Chris Hatcher - Wolf Blass Shavaughn Wells – Saltram “No doubt it is because of a more restrained bean shoots in a laboratory, which wasn’t Jason Brown – Moppity use of oak, but also clonal selection has what he wanted to do,” explained Milne. been critical in producing more subtle fruit “He took a gap year and worked a vintage expression,” said Nugent. The arrival in here, liked it and changed his degree over Australian the mid ’90s of the Bernard chardonnay to oenology.” Much like his father did some Winery of the Year clones from Dijon in France has made an 36 years before! - FINALISTS - enormous contribution to producing elite After leaving school in Bordertown, South Australian chardonnays. Australia, Milne enrolled in a science So will there be a chardonnay joining degree then took a gap year, did one or Bird in Hand’s extremely rare Tribute Series two jobs working in a winery up in the currently consisting of the M.A.C. Shiraz, Riverland then went travelling Australia the Marie Elizabeth Cabernet and the on his motorbike. When he came back Lalla Victoria Sparkling? “If we continue he changed his degree over to oenology, to improve as we have been doing I don’t worked at Berri Estates, the biggest winery think it will be long before we see a Tribute in the country at the time, during his Series Chardonnay,” confirmed Nugent. holidays and stayed with them for three And what does the future hold for the years after he had finished his degree. Australian Winemaker of the Year? “I hope What do they say about falling apples and to keep on making wine for quite a while trees? yet,” said Milne. “I am enjoying what I am As mentioned earlier, Bird in Hand’s Nest doing at the moment, although sometimes Egg series of wines are only created in I think I have too much on my plate and outstanding vintages and so far it looks like cut things back, but I am a sucker for new 2015 could be one of them. “Although it’s projects!” early days yet,” said Milne. “The wines are If Milne should ever decide to step back still in barrels until next year”. But we could from winemaking there could be another be looking forward to another Nest Egg or Milne ready to take up the baton. Sam, the two. Judges, start polishing your medals! eldest of the Milne’s three sons, is currently doing a winemaking degree. “He started doing evolutionary biology but got halfway Previous Pages: Chief Winemaker Kym Milne MW and The Bird in Hand Winemaking Team - Andrew Nugent, through and decided he was probably Dylan Lee, Peter Ruchs & Kym Milne going to spend the rest of his life counting Above: Bird in Hand display in China. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 39

This page: John Casella.

push PREMIUM PAYS OFF He may have started at the bulk end of the market, but John Casella is now firmly entrenched at the top end. NIGEL HOPKINS WHEN your company is selling more than Casella says his philosophy is to make 12 million cases of wine across the world, the best possible wine with the resources why on earth would you bother about available to him. That started after his adding a couple of thousand cases or so of father, Filippo Casella, moved the family something super special to the mix? from Sicily to Australia in 1957 and created Well, according to the managing director Casella Family Brands in 1969. Casella of Riverina region Casella Family Brands, grew up at the winery in Yenda, where he John Casella, it’s really all about showing learned many skills from his father. Wine that you can. was part of the family culture and from a “It’s not a financial thing,” he says of his young age he demonstrated a passion and two super-premium Casella 1919 wines, a talent for winemaking, eventually getting cabernet sauvignon from Wrattonbully and a degree in oenology from Charles Sturt a Barossa Valley shiraz, both of which have University in nearby Wagga Wagga. been swathed in medals since the launch He went on to manage Riverina Estate of the 2006 vintage. “It’s more a matter of winery, which over 12 years he grew from showing what we’re capable of. a 4000-tonne crush to 25,000, and in 1994 “It’s also a natural progression in rounding he joined the family business where, in the business out. At one end you have the 2001, he created [yellow tail] expecting it bulk end, and at the other, the premium would sell 25,000 cases in its first year. In end. There’s nothing to say you can’t do fact sales rocketed to 230,000 cases and both really well.” became recognised as the most successful Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 41

launch of a wine brand in Australia’s history. but a $100 bottle of a wine bearing his I have always had More than a billion bottles of Yellow Tail family name might be more appropriate. It was destined to become more than that, have now been sold. While all this was happening Casella was even though the initial bottling was barely an interest in the nurturing another ambition, kick started by over 1100 cases of the 2006 cabernet winning the 2004 Jimmy Watson, which sauvignon and less than 350 cases of the cooler regions of cemented his vision to produce premium shiraz. Like the current 2008 vintage, each wine - beginning with the purchase of wine is given five years bottle age before South Australia exceptional parcels of fruit for the inaugural release. 2006 range of Casella 1919 wines. The purchase of Peter Lehmann Wines and the enormous “The year 1919 bears great significance for $57 million in November last year for my family, marking the year that the was a further signal that Casella’s focus potential to produce home of Casella Family Brands, Farm 1471, is turning towards premium wines, but was created and the year my grandfathers, Casella emphasises that there’s no attempt fantastic wines from Giuseppe Casella and Giovanni Patane, to create a “trickle up” effect on the core returned from the Great War to teach their Yellow Tail brand. these regions. children the art of winemaking,” Casella “You can’t take a $10 brand and build it says. up to a $50 product,” he says. “This is not “Almost 100 years later I am delighted about taking Yellow Tail upmarket. to honour my family heritage by making “What we have is a team of very these exceptional wines, paying testament experienced, very capable winemakers, to regional expression, handcrafted a really extensive grower base and we’ve winemaking and the history of my developed a good understanding of the forefathers.” regions from which we draw our fruit. This As a winemaker whose wine has won gives us a great capacity to develop these more than 1000 medals, Casella initially wine styles and regions, and the flexibility wanted to create a wine that he could that comes with being able to choose from credibly give as a gift. Perhaps he thought many wine parcels, that gives us a big a simple bottle of Yellow Tail selling for less advantage over smaller producers. than $10 might not carry sufficient respect, “I’ve always had an interest in the

cooler regions of South Australia and the Nor does he plan, for the moment, to enormous potential to produce fantastic expand the Casella 1919 range: “I want to wines from these regions. With Casella limit it to what I believe is exceptional,” he 1919 we wanted to do as well if not better says. “Possibly a great pinot noir one day; than the best wines coming from these chardonnay? I’ve thought about it, but I’m regions.” not sure I’m comfortable with that yet. Throwing small-batch winemaking “This is not really a financial move. In into the huge volumes produced by the fact it’s of no consequence financially. company could be tricky, but Casella And although it gives our winemakers says winemaking could take place either great satisfaction to make such wines, it’s at Lehmanns in the Barossa “which is really all about building an image for the better equipped for it” or at the Yenda Casella brand. headquarters, where a “very small” bottling “What you need to remember is that line is being installed. Yellow Tail was created with a specific Of the moment Casella seems pretty strategy and consumer in mind. Our much content to consolidate his present entry into premium wines has the same position. He has no great plans to expand consideration behind it and the same Peter Lehmann Wines: “It’s more a matter winemaking philosophy - to make the very of continuing and slightly expanding, but best possible wine with the resources also achieving higher price points. It’s not available.” so much about selling more but moving some of the wines on to where they deserve Right top: Casella closed barrels. to be. There’s a lot of work to be done here.” Right bottom: Casella founders house. Below: Casella Wines road sign. Further acquisitions are also off the list, for the moment: “We’re always open to extending a bit,” he says, “but there’s nothing specific at this stage. It would have to be something that didn’t compete with what we have - but we’re always open to look at things.”

NEW ZEALAND winemaker and wine company of the year DOUBLING UP MICHAEL COOPER VILLA MARIA is New Zealand’s largest, full-time basis, but daughter Karen, who consistently successful winner of wine fully family-owned wine company, so it’s is married to Milan Brajkovich, of Kumeu show awards for close on a decade.” no surprise that it’s fiercely competitive. For River, chairs the board of directors. Last The new Chief Winemaker of the Villa longer than anyone can recall, Villa Maria December, Sir George appointed Richard Maria Group – and winner of the Winestate has promoted itself as “New Zealand’s most Thomas as his first chief operating officer. trophy for New Zealand Winemaker of the awarded winery”, and the claim stands He is responsible for sales and marketing, Year - is 35 year-old Nick Picone. After 18 up to scrutiny. No other producer scoops winery and bottling operations, restaurants, years with the company, Picone will oversee Winestate’s NZ Wine Company of the Year cellar doors and events. all of the group’s winemaking, including and NZ Winemaker of the Year awards with “I’m definitely not a wine connoisseur; its Villa Maria, Vidal, Esk Valley, Te Awa, the frequency - almost predictability - of more a wine consumer,” says Thomas, who Thornbury, Left Field, Riverstone and Wise Villa Maria. has a BA in philosophy and an international Owl brands. Villa Maria founder Sir George Fistonich background in marketing and advertising. Sir George views Picone as “extremely is an ardent supporter of the wine-show “Ultimately, the key to success is to help talented”, possessing “an exceptional circuit, on the basis that it encourages the people inside the company maximise palate”. Raised in Hawke’s Bay, he is excellence and helps producers to achieve the great existing value in the brands, the son of Vince Picone, of Vince’s World recognition at home and abroad. “Wine products, teams we already have, whilst of Wine, a vineyard-touring business. is something that you just have to keep driving growth in key markets globally.” A graduate of the Eastern Institute of fine-tuning,” he says. “If you don’t do any Shortly after his appointment, Thomas Technology, as a Bachelor of Wine Science, good, you’ve got to try harder. If the All selected a global head of marketing, Scott Picone worked as a youngster at the Esk Blacks don’t win at rugby, they go and do Fairbairn, formerly head of marketing at Valley winery, owned by Villa Maria in 1997, more practice.” Pernod Ricard NZ. moved to Marlborough in 2002 as assistant Those who have worked for Sir George Another high-level change at Villa Maria winemaker for Villa Maria and in 2008 shifted – about half the winemaking community has been the departure of Alistair Maling, north to the company’s headquarters as – at a senior level tend to view him as a GM Winemaking and Viticulture since 2011, senior Auckland winemaker. visionary. “To work for George, you had who left to join American-owned Foley Picone and his family are now back living to have a good sense of humour and a Family Wines, which has major investments in Hawke’s Bay while he commutes on strong back,” recalls Ross Spence, who in Marlborough and Martinborough. When a weekly basis to Auckland. Picone has subsequently co-founded Matua Valley in he was appointed Group Winemaker in worked vintages in California and Barolo, 1974. “He is very good at keeping his finger 2002, Maling, a Master of Wine, replaced and has also won a string of “Young on everything. He’s a great strategist and Michelle Richardson, whose predecessors Winemaker of the Year” and “Winemaker of he uses that to carry his company forward. had included Grant Edmonds in the 1990s, the Year” awards, now including Winestate’s His head is a can of worms. I tell you, they Kym Milne in the mid-late 1980s, Harry New Zealand Winemaker of the Year. never stop moving.” Wright and Mark Polglase in the early A regular panellist for Winestate, Picone Sir George agrees that he likes being 1980s, and many years further back – Ross describes his role as “essentially co- involved in most aspects of the company. Spence. ordinating the winemaking over the whole “Some GMs are accountancy-orientated; Sir George himself was voted Winemaker group – working closely alongside the I’m not,” he says. “I find people much of the Year at the Liquorland Royal Easter winemakers in terms of styles and qualities”. more fascinating. I love the element of Wine Show in 1993, leading Michael Brett Sir George sees him as “without doubt one psychology in business; it surfaces in to write in the Sunday Star: “Fistonich of New Zealand’s shining stars”. marketing, negotiating and motivating. has not made wine since the 1960s and Starting at Esk Valley, “scrubbing the I’d be bored as a small-scale winemaker. cynics would probably say that Villa Maria’s tanks and cleaning the floors”, Picone was There’s much more scope for what interests success began once he stopped making entranced by the “mystique and magic” me in a big company.” the wine. Rather, the award honours a man involved in the production of a great wine. Now in his mid 70s, Sir George has no – a survivor, a juggler, an innovator – who Today, he looks to the immediate future with children involved in the company on a has been the catalyst for the country’s most confidence. “It’s a very optimistic time for 44 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

New Zealand Winemaker of the Year - FINALISTS - the whole industry because we have had were introduced 10 years earlier, with a plan several great vintages,” he says. to convert an 80ha vineyard in Hawke’s Bay. Villa Maria recently celebrated the 10th “We thought it would be easy, but it anniversary of the opening of its classy, wasn’t,” admits Fabian Yukich, Villa Maria’s contemporary complex in Mangere, south executive director. “Going organic on such Auckland. Headquartered for decades only a large scale back then was quite unusual. a few kilometres away in a very utilitarian, The weeds and pests won – and we lost.” Hamish Clark - Saint Clair pseudo-Spanish winery, in 2005 Villa Maria The venture was scaled back to a more opened a beautiful, $NZ30 million winery manageable 27ha, allowing the discovery and estate vineyard in a shallow, wind- of best-practice techniques, followed by protected volcanic cone, near Auckland Bio-Gro certification of the block in 2007. International Airport. Today, at Villa Maria’s vineyards and The winery, which does all the bottling wineries around the country, worm farms for the company’s wineries further south, are fed with scraps from the restaurant Tamra Kelly-Washington - Yealands including Esk Valley and Vidal, is flanked kitchens, staff lunchrooms and organic Family Estates by 20ha of gewurztraminer, chardonnay, wastes, creating nutrient-rich material pinot noir (for sparkling) and verdelho for fertilising the vineyards. Wildflowers vines, and hosts many business functions planted between the rows attract beneficial and concerts. Villa Maria Estate is currently insects, which ward off pests that would attracting over 90,000 visitors a year. otherwise need to be sprayed with synthetic Further south, in Hawke’s Bay, Villa Maria pesticides. When there are no grapes Paul Bourgeois - Spy Valley ranks as the largest landholder in the for snaffling, flocks of sheep graze the prestigious Gimblett Gravels winegrowing vineyards, providing natural fertiliser while district. Since acquiring the Te Awa helping with leaf plucking. vineyard and winery in 2012, the company Thinking along sustainability lines has has drawn up plans for a $NZ30 million also influenced the architecture and vineyard/winery development, designed equipping of Villa Maria’s wineries. For especially to cater for the fast-growing instance, heat recovery systems take waste Chris Scott - Church Road international demand for Gimblett Gravels heat from the refrigeration plant and store reds. A central goal has been to minimise it for use in the winemaking process (such transport, allowing the grapes to be as warming grape juice prior to and during New Zealand crushed and fermented in a winery next to fermentation). A “night air cooling” system Winery of the Year the vineyards. imports cold night air into the warehouses, - FINALISTS - Left Field, a brand inherited through the where the stored wine acts as a giant “chilly acquisition of Te Awa, has been boosted pack” to maintain optimum temperatures, recently by the launch of a quirkily labelled even during summer’s heat. Natural light is range grown in Hawke’s Bay and other used to provide daytime illumination. regions around the country. The distinctive The sales team has also been included labels, intricately designed from etchings in the drive to reduce Villa Maria’s carbon by Kiwi designer Aaron Pollock, portray footprint. Since 2007, the sales team fleet inventions, events and creatures. has been progressively changing to low- Left Field wines are aimed at consumers emission hybrid vehicles. “who enjoy wine but are not pretentious,” In a huge boost to the company this year, reports Thomas. “I don’t want to dumb it Air New Zealand switched to a single wine down, that’s not what we are about. We supplier for its economy and premium are just trying to reach a different type of economy classes - those selected by most person. Look what cider has done – it’s of its customers. Villa Maria - which also found a different way to talk to audiences.” owns the Esk Valley, Vidal, Thornbury and At grassroots level, Villa Maria views Te Awa brands - is also the sole supplier its path to the future as a “sustainability of wine to the airline’s Koru lounges. Sir journey”. “As a family company,” says Sir George told the Marlborough Express that George, “the desire to leave something for Villa Maria was selected “on the basis of the next generation is an ever-present and ability to supply and service international overriding business objective.” and domestic flights. It was also about Villa Maria’s first organically certified wine quality.” was a Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Merlot Opposite page: Auckland winery & winemaker from the 2009 vintage. Organic principles Nick Picone. Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 45

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015 UNFORGETTABLE Feast your senses on a Wine Ambassador Series River Cruise Europe Wine Ambassador Cruises DEPARTURES Join APT and enjoy a truly unforgettable five-star journey. Unpack only once and relax as APT’s 16 DAY CHARMS OF 8 DAY RHÔNE TREASURES all-inclusive river cruises take you through Europe’s SOUTHERN FRANCE Lyon to Arles. most stunning scenery in style. Arles to Lyon. Departs 24 June 2016 Departs 29 July & 7 Oct 2016 From $9,895* pp, twin share From $5,395* pp, twin share In 2016 APT is partnering with expert vintners from across Australia to deliver complementary Wine 9 DAY DOURO DELIGHTS 15 DAY MAGNIFICENT EUROPE Masterclass experiences on selected cruise departures. Madrid to Porto. Amsterdam to Budapest. ^ Hand-picked Wine Ambassadors will travel exclusively Departs 4 July 2016 Departs 16 July & 18 Nov 2016 on cruises in Central Europe, France and Portugal. From $5,645* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share These hosts will oversee tastings of wonderful wine 8 DAY GRAND BORDEAUX 15 DAY RHINE, RHÔNE & MOSELLE including specially selected wines from their own range, Bordeaux return. Arles to Amsterdam. lead excursions to wineries and vineyards, and explain Departs 8 July 2016 Departs 5 August 2016 the nuances of traditional wine-making methods and From $5,195* pp, twin share From $10,595* pp, twin share European wine heritage and traditions. 8 DAY ROMANTIC SEINE 15 DAY RHINE & MOSELLE BOOK NOW FOR EARLYBIRD SUPERDEALS Paris return. Amsterdam to Basel. INCLUDING FLY FREE* Departs 22 July 2016 Departs 30 September 2016 From $4,695* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share Visit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Prices are correct as at 9 October 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. All offers are available until 31 October 2015 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings only. Prices based on EUFCR16W: 24 June 2016 (Cat. E), EUPDCR09W: 4 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUBC08W: 8 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUSC08W: 22 July 2016 (Cat. E) , EURCR15W: 5 August 2016 (Cat. E), EUDC15W: 30 September 2016, EUPC08W: 7 October 2016 (Cat. E) and EUMC15W: 18 November 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. All offers are available and are subject to availability, until sold out. Prices are inclusive of $200 or $400 Early Payment Discount, where applicable. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: $400 pp offer is applicable to tours 15 days or longer. $200 pp offer is applicable to tours between 8–14 days. 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp must be paid by 31 August 2015. Full payment due 10 months prior to tour departure. NO EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: A 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp is due by 31 October 2015. Final payment due 100 days prior to departure. Tour operates Budapest to Amsterdam. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT3268 ^

BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST TOUR OPERATOR BEST RIVER CRUISE SPARKLING of the year DOMESTIC INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR 2015 2015 2015 UNFORGETTABLE WINNER THE APT TROPHY Gallagher Blanc De Blanc Canberra District Chardonnay 2009 WINEMAKER: Greg Gallagher COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale lemon straw in appearance with fine and persistent bead of bubble. ‘Bread dough’ with honeydew and melon aromas on the nose, with a clean and long palate with good fruit sweetness and balance. The wine is fruit driven with a pleasant yeast development and richness. Full, soft and delicate in a great example of the style. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Serve with seafood, fruits and most white meat dishes. VITICULTURE: Estate grown fruit. Well drained soils, with a northerly exposure on a sloping block. (Essential in a cool climate with frost risk.) Supplementary drip irrigation for vine maintenance without pushing yields. 2009 yield of 3.3 tonnes per hectare. Harvested 28 Feb 2009. Feast your senses on a VINIFICATION & MATURATION: Wine Ambassador Series River Cruise Whole bunch pressed from estate grown fruit. Cold settled before ferment. Left on lees, with frequent lees stirring for 5 months before Tirage bottling. Left to mature on lees for 5 years before disgorging. Europe Wine Ambassador Cruises DEPARTURES Disgorged with minimal dosage liquor, sealed with Join APT and enjoy a truly unforgettable five-star Zork closures for better maintenance of pressure and journey. Unpack only once and relax as APT’s 16 DAY CHARMS OF 8 DAY RHÔNE TREASURES avoiding possible cork taint. all-inclusive river cruises take you through Europe’s SOUTHERN FRANCE Lyon to Arles. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: most stunning scenery in style. Arles to Lyon. Departs 24 June 2016 Departs 29 July & 7 Oct 2016 From $9,895* pp, twin share From $5,395* pp, twin share Phone: +61 2 6227 0555 In 2016 APT is partnering with expert vintners from Email: [email protected] across Australia to deliver complementary Wine 9 DAY DOURO DELIGHTS 15 DAY MAGNIFICENT EUROPE Masterclass experiences on selected cruise departures. Madrid to Porto. Amsterdam to Budapest. Web: www.gallagherwines.com.au ^ Hand-picked Wine Ambassadors will travel exclusively Departs 4 July 2016 Departs 16 July & 18 Nov 2016 on cruises in Central Europe, France and Portugal. From $5,645* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share These hosts will oversee tastings of wonderful wine 8 DAY GRAND BORDEAUX 15 DAY RHINE, RHÔNE & MOSELLE including specially selected wines from their own range, Bordeaux return. Arles to Amsterdam. lead excursions to wineries and vineyards, and explain Departs 8 July 2016 Departs 5 August 2016 the nuances of traditional wine-making methods and From $5,195* pp, twin share From $10,595* pp, twin share European wine heritage and traditions. LUIGI BORMIOLI GLASS 8 DAY ROMANTIC SEINE 15 DAY RHINE & MOSELLE Supremo Sparkling 240ml BOOK NOW FOR EARLYBIRD SUPERDEALS Paris return. Amsterdam to Basel. INCLUDING FLY FREE* Departs 22 July 2016 Departs 30 September 2016 From $4,695* pp, twin share From $8,095* pp, twin share Visit aptouring.com.au/WineSeries or call 1300 216 380 or see your local travel agent *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) AUD twin share. Prices are correct as at 9 October 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. All offers are available until 31 October 2015 unless sold out prior, valid for new bookings only. Prices based on EUFCR16W: 24 June 2016 (Cat. E), EUPDCR09W: 4 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUBC08W: 8 July 2016 (Cat. E), EUSC08W: 22 July 2016 (Cat. E) , EURCR15W: 5 August 2016 (Cat. E), EUDC15W: 30 September 2016, EUPC08W: 7 October 2016 (Cat. E) and EUMC15W: 18 November 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. All offers are available and are subject to availability, until sold out. Prices are inclusive of $200 or $400 Early Payment Discount, where applicable. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: $400 pp offer is applicable to tours 15 days or longer. $200 pp offer is applicable to tours between 8–14 days. 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within 7 days of the booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp must be paid by 31 August 2015. Full payment due 10 months prior to tour departure. NO EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: A 1st non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp is due by 31 October 2015. Final payment due 100 days prior to departure. Tour operates Budapest to Amsterdam. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT3268 ^

YEAR AWARDS TS THE S WINE OF I L WINESTATE - A I N F AURUM METHODE AKARUA METHODE TRADITIONELLE VINTAGE TRADITIONELLE VINTAGE BRUT CENTRAL OTAGO BLANC DE BANNOCKBURN CENTRAL BLANCS 2008 OTAGO 2010 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Lucie Lawrence Andrew Keenleyside COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Scent of white flowers and aromas of Pale Straw Colour. Aromas of red dried fruit and brioche. Intensity and fruit, toasty, nutty and yeasty. Red fruit power with complexity from extended character dominates (54% Pinot). Full lees contact. Mouth filling and driven by of character, complexity with roundness a precise acidity. and finesse. Creamy texture and a long CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: crisp finish. Phone: +64 3 445 3620 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Email: [email protected] Phone: +64 3 445 0897 Web: www.aurumwines.com Email: [email protected] Web: www.akarua.com 48 WINES TATE Special Edition 2015

BLUE PYRENEES METHODE VERDUN PARK WINES AMELIA TRADITIONELLE BRUT ADELAIDE HILLS SPARKLING NV ROSÉ PINOT NOIR 2008 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Michael Sykes Andrew Koerner COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: NV ‘Amelia’ Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut Pale pink with a fine consistent bead. Red has a fine bead and yeasty characters on apple and cherry confection character the nose followed with fine citrus acidity with complex bakery aromas. Classic and crisp green apple on the palate, sparkling pinot noir red apple fruit complimented with a long clean finish. flavours with toffee apple and patisserie Our sparkling has been named ‘Amelia’ complexity. The fine acid backbone and in honour of Sandy’s late mother, Amelia soft pillowy bubbles are a highlight as is Thomas. the considerable length. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +61 8 8388 7357 Phone: +61 3 5465 1111 E: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.verdunparkwines.com.au Web: www.bluepyrenees.com.au 49 Special Edition 2015 WINES TATE 49

GRANGUSTO Developed to assist venues with their portion control, these all-purpose glasses assist to reduce the alcohol odours within the wine, allowing the pleasant characteristics of the wines aromas to rise to the opening. The aeration of the wine is properly balanced due to the triangular shape of the contact surface. Each glass features 3 discrete pour-lines allowing for the correct measure to the pour.