Winestate Magazine Annual 2012

ANNUAL 2012 WINESTATE VOL 35 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2011 IN REVIEW 175HOUGHTON’S ANNUAL th Edition 2012 ANNIVERSARY FINDING THE SILVER LINING Aiming at a Double Century 2011 IN REVIEWPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Annual 2012 Special Feature VOL 35 Issue 1 WINE OF THE YEAR $11.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $12.00 SGD $16.00 WRAP-UP US $11.00 UKP/EUR 9.00 China RMB120 HKD $150 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2011





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NO.246 ANNUAL 2012Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Stephen Dean E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Reid, Sponsorship Consultant - [email protected], South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2012 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contents ANNUAL 2012 FEATURES R E G U L A R S THE YEAR IN THE REAR-VIEW MIRROR 24 Houghton aiming at a double century 12 Briefs From its early days in the wild West, iconic 16 European Report with Sally Easton 2011 was full of drama in the Australian and New wine maker Houghton has matured into 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Zealand wine industries and our writers look back one of Western Australia’s most celebrated 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King at how the industry coped. wineries. After marking 175 years of 22 Wine History with Valmai Hankel producing fine wines earlier in 2011, the 36 Winewords 113 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: organisation has its gaze firmly set on 35 Bookworms Wet dampens expectations reaching its 200th anniversary. 40 Grapevine After a series of drought and heat-affected 45 Wine Investment & Collecting vintages, 2011 roared in with unseasonal rains 28 2011 VINTAGE REPORT 50 What’s it Worth? inundating the viticultural regions. Karyn Foster Otherwise known as 54 How We Judge says that while some of the reds suffered from - It never rains but it pours 71 Subscription Form the extreme wet and cool weather, some high Mother Nature had most of the wine growing 178 Aftertaste quality wines are emerging. regions in a cool, damp grip during the 2011 growing season and as a consequence PLUS-THE BEST 129 VICTORIA: most regions had to deal with dramatic OF THE BEST Finding the silver lining challenges. But Karyn Foster says the sun Despite a serious drenching in January which shone on Western Australia and its growers left many vineyards, including Seppelt’s enjoyed a dry, hot summer and almost 148-year-old St Peter’s, under water, Jeni Port perfect season. says some cool climate producers searching for a point of difference in the market found We revisit the most outstanding wines - rated an opening with niche wines. WINE OF THE YEAR32 four stars and above - that we tasted in 2011. 135 NEW SOUTH WALES: Hunter makes most of unseasonal weather Awards 2011 55 Best of Styles Wet and cool weather was the continuing SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE feature for wine makers, although Winsor 89 Best of New Releases Dobbin says the Hunter stood out with a We have raised a glass to honour the “cracker vintage”. Weather conditions there meant fruit was picked later, delivering Australian and New Zealand wines, wine 106 The 2011 Best of Top 40 Best Buys higher acids and lower baumes. He says the whites fared better than the reds. makers and wine companies in Winestate’s 112 Best of South Australia Wine of the Year awards. Now we bring 128 Best of Victoria 141 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: you a four-page pictorial special on the Investment pays off While Wine Press Club president Bill presentation event. 134 Best of New South Wales Crappsley believes 2011 will prove to be a fantastic year across the board, Mike 140 Best of Western Australia Zekulich says Mandoon’s Allan Erceg is wearing a broader grin than most after his 146 Best of Queensland multi-million dollar investment began paying off with trophies for his signature shiraz. 146 Best of Tasmania 149 NEW ZEALAND: 148 Best of New Zealand New optimism despite troubling times There’s a growing confidence amongANNUAL 2012 WINESTATE VOL 34 ISSUE 1 160 Michael Cooper’s Best of 2011 Releases winemakers after several years of over supply and the global financial crisis, says Michael AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Cooper. Growers are optimistic after a record harvest and growing interest from China.Winestate’s Best Wines oF 2011 in revieW AnnuAl Edition 2012print post approved pp565001/00129 Winestate Magazine Issue Number 246 Annual 2012 Cover photograph © Winestate compilation of images. includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2011

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editorialTHIS HAS BEEN AN INCREDIBLY INTERESTING YEAR FOR WINE,both in Australia and New Zealand. Wine discounting continues at a rapid pace with the bigsupermarket chains vying for the cheapest award, which may appeal to some consumers inthe short term, but does little for the sustainablity of the industry as a whole. We now have noname brands judged by no-name panels from stores that sell the products they recommend.We have Winestate recommended wines (from independent wine tastings) having neck tagsremoved from bottles in stores because we are not part of their paid for entourage. We have wine writers who consult for wineries, then give those wineries 96 points in their“evaluations,” which are not tasted blind. It appears that 94 is the new 90 and there is greatpressure on writers to recommend just about anything. Some wine shows are awarding trophiesto simple fruit driven wines rather than favouring more complex alternatives. One major wineshow bragged that none of its judges were over 35, which seems an odd criterion for choosingthe best judges. Surely it should be about wine knowledge regardless of age? Winestate New Zealand Editor, Michael Cooper, reports that some wine writers now get paidfor “commissioned” wine reviews that they sell to wineries, and then get invited to judge at wineshows. Jane Skilton MW adds that whilst there are great sommeliers in top restaurants, whoare good at their craft, we are now also seeing some young sommeliers who after a weekend“masterclass” have become instant experts. This rankles the Masters of Wine fraternity whohave spent years achieving their well-earned status as true wine experts. Whilst there are some sensational, usually high priced, imported wines, it is also true that most at the commercial end are not up to thestandard of ‘common garden’ Australasian varietals. Often the reason no-one has ever heard of the latest new entry imported varietalsis because they aren’t very good! We lately have the rise of young anti -snobs who almost by definition are the new snobs; they knowand you don’t, and they are more interested in showing what they have found rather than working out what you like. However, havingsaid all that it is great to see the rise of small left-field wine bars that offer diversity and discussion to an impressionable wine market. Here at Winestate we may be criticised for being conservative, in that we have stuck with the star rating system, which rates wines inbands, rather than the points system that assumes an accuracy that simply does not exist. We use peer industry panels of expert judges;usually winemakers and Masters of Wine, who have seen a wine fault or two in their lives and who judge wines blind. But to prove a pointabout the 100 point system, on any given day to get all three panellists in a tasting to have the exact same score on an individual winewould occur only once or twice in a hundred wines. It also means that we recommend less than 50% of all wines judged, with most awarded at the highly acceptable three star (recommended)level. In France a one star Michelin restaurant is highly regarded and I would prefer to try to emulate that credibility. Frankly I wouldprefer that we are known as tough judges rather than easy beats, although it does occasionally create problems with wineries who feelhard done by with our panels’ judgements. I should also point out that we make no differentiation between commercial wines, unusualvarieties, iconic wines, imports, exotics and anything else you can think of. We taste these all blind together under varietal or pricecategories, depending on the tasting involved. It keeps life interesting and sorts out the performers from the pretenders! (And you mayhave noticed that we are now including the world’s most expensive wines as yardsticks, and taste them blind without fear or favour). Effectively Winestate is a series of mini-wine shows in a magazine, that over a twelve month period judges more than the Sydney,Melbourne and Adelaide wine shows combined. In this Annual issue we move up the rung a touch, celebrating all those wines that achieved a highly desirable four stars or more in oneof our many tastings. This could have been through our New Release tastings, Style (varietals) tasting or Regional tastings. This resultwas awarded over the past twelve months and with the moving target that is wine, some wines may have improved in the bottle whilstsome may have faded a little. Our only comment is that these wines are worth hunting down in the first instance. By reading the winereviews you can narrow down the choices to choose wines that might appeal to your personal palate preferences. Thanks for your continued interest in the magazine this year and I wish you a wonderful personal vintage in 2012. For the wine industrywho continue to put their wines into our tastings, often without their preferred results, our thanks for their integrity and persistence. And toour expert peer industry winemaker judges and Masters of Wine who contribute their valuable time to judge (in Australia & New Zealand)on behalf of Michael Cooper and myself an extremely big thank you.Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsRECLAIMING TOP SPOT MAKING HER MARK“I HAVE always questioned how “I CAME from the school of hard knocks in Margaret River until the day I wasAustralia would reinvent itself,” adopted by Vasse Felix. It was the greatest day of my life.” Vasse Felix chiefsays Yarra Valley winemaker Mac winemaker Virginia Willcock clearly loves her job. She has also in five shortForbes. The young wine man saw vintages made her mark on the wines introducing a cleaner, more refinedthe “collapse” of Brand Australia first flavour profile to flagships chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.hand while working in Europe, andwith the start of his own eponymous “We push boundaries,” she says. Inspiration for her “full-on” style of winemakinglabel in 2005 worried about how this came from the Cloudy Bay winery in New Zealand where she worked with Jamescountry would reclaim its position in Healy (now with Dog Point Vineyard) and which included an introduction to wildoverseas markets. Now he believes it yeasts. From 2007 the role of natural ferments and a high level of solids increasedhas found it. “What has emerged out significantly in Willcock’s chardonnay. The result today is a standard chardonnayof the dust in the last few years is the beginning of what I believe to be the most that highlights texture and bright fruits while structural integrity and delicacy are thedynamic chapter to date in Australian wine,” he writes in his October newsletter. hallmarks of the Heytesbury chardonnay. With cabernet sauvignon, she introduced small one tonne open fermenters and brought in basket presses. From 2007, she “This chapter will be built on the increasing number of growers and smaller made the decision to discontinue the practice of adding tannin to her best wines.producers going solo.” Forbes, who concentrates on making a range of wines From 2011 she has gone “cold turkey” with no added tannins across the board.from vineyards across the Yarra Valley and Strathbogie Ranges, believes people Merlot has slowly left the cabernet blends but malbec and petit verdot remain.are “deserting” the big brands in favour of smaller growers. “It is these smaller “We struggle with merlot in Margaret River from vintage to vintage,” she says.growers and producers who are emerging as the new face of Australian wine.” “We have pulled 4ha out in the last two years.” The standard cabernet is gaining depth of fruit flavour while the Heytesbury is possibly extending its aging potential.FRENCH OUR GREATEST CHALLENGE Is a 100 per cent cabernet sauvignon on the cards in the future? “In my puristTHE BIGGEST challenge to the future of Australian wine sales in China view, yeah, that would be wonderful.”remains the French. “At the top end and lower end, French wines are all atgood prices,” says Summer Yan, the former Wine Australia and Austraderepresentative based in China. “Inland in China people only know of French wine.” Summer, who recentlytook up the position of brand manager for Torres China, says the French arespending impressively large amounts of money promoting their wines and arefocussing hard on influencing Chinese sommeliers. For the first seven months of 2011, France’s percentage share of the Chineseimported wine market rose by 3.1 per cent to 5.5 million cases. It now enjoysa dominant position in the Chinese imported wine market with a 48.1 per centshare. Australia’s market share for the same period fell 4.1 per cent to 1.5 millioncases. It now has just 13.1 per cent share of the increasingly lucrative market. Fourth generation, Barossa Valley born, wine maker Simon Hackett established his winery on a fertile hill overlooking McLaren Vale over 20 years ago. Simon Hackett produces a stunning range of wines including the very popular limited release Anthony’s Reserve Shiraz and Foggo Road Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Drop into the cellar door for a tasting and take in the stunning panoramic views. Budgens Rd, McLaren Vale ~ 08 8323 7712 [email protected] W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

briefsTHE BEST OF KICKING MARKETING GOALSHEATHCOTE ONE OF the most isolated wine regions in Australia, the Great Southern,A NEW book on the people and the is kicking marketing goals in international markets with its own virtualwines of the Heathcote wine region wine tasting DVD.started as a series of wine storiespublished in the small local Heathcote And the cost? A mere $500. Elizabeth Reed, a former winemaker nownewspaper, The McIvor Times. turned marketer and export advisor to the Great Southern wine producers, put together the professional DVD on a shoestring budget. “As the number of stories grew, sodid the idea of updating them and She undertook a short-term graphic design course at a local TAFE toturning them into a book,” notes author prepare the DVD jacket and while there teamed up with a group of youngKate Hicks in her book People Behind filmmakers who filmed wine tastings, featuring James Kellie (HarewoodThe Wines of Heathcote. Hicks is Estate), Rob Diletti (Castle Rock), Rob Wignall (Wignalls), Clemenceclear on what the book isn’t. It isn’t Haselgrove (Forest Hill) and Hunter Smith (Frankland Estate). Chineseabout scores and wine reviews. It is sub-titles were included as the winemakers talked their way through theabout the people who make up the tasting of some of their new release wines.region. “You’ll find nurses, dentists,food technologists, pharmacists, teachers,” she writes, “fencing contractors, Now Elizabeth goes to trade fairs throughout Asia and hands out copies ofengineers, entrepreneurs, financial advisors, professional fund raisers, the DVDs introducing Great Southern wines and the makers of to a far broaderIT professionals, builders, bank managers and community workers among them,” audience than ever before. “When you are limited in resources it’s amazing what you can do,” she says. Some of the established names of the region such as Jasper Hill, Wild DuckCreek, Osicka and Eppalock Ridge are featured alongside rising stars such as CHARTERIS ON THE MOVESanguine Estate, Whistling Eagle, Shelmerdine and Heathcote Estate. Someoutside makers who source Heathcote fruit like John Ellis at Hanging Rock PJ Charteris, who spent 12 years at leading Hunter Valley wineryare also included. People Behind The Wines of Heathcote, published by CM Brokenwood, has announced his departure to concentrate on personalHicks and Associates, $29.95. Contact [email protected]. projects, including his own Charteris label in Central Otago, New Zealand, where he is producing pinot noir. New Zealand-born Charteris joinedSMART ACHIEVEMENT Brokenwood in 1999 after several years with Southcorp. He built a reputation as a white wine specialist, enjoying particular success with chardonnay,THE INAUGURAL $10,000 Don Martin Sustainable Viticulture Award has been but general manager Geoff Krieger said: “The full range of Brokenwood’swon by Paul Smart of the up and coming Tasmanian winery, Pressing Matters. wines benefited from PJ’s touch, including, most importantly, GraveyardPaul is off to France for workshops in Champagne and internships with wine Shiraz – now rated exceptional in Langton’s Classification of Australianproducers in Burgundy and Alsace. “This fellowship provides a unique opportunity Wine - and particularly the 2005 ILR Semillon, which won the Regionalfor a wine sector professional to undertake world class research and contribute White Wine Trophy at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards in London.”to the state’s viticultural knowledge and practices,” said Wine Tasmania CEO,Sheralee Davies, of the award that is open exclusively to Tasmanian viticulturists. Krieger said Charteris’s “humour and casual demeanour concealed a sharp, analytical palate and serious approach to wine quality.”Charteris was named Winemaker of the Year at the Hunter Legends & Wine Industry Awards in 2010. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 13

A NEW WAY TO EXPERIENCE WINEWine tourism in recent times has become much more than the standard wine tasting tour or cellar door visit. Now more than everthere are more ways to experience Australia’s finest blends in unique and intimate settings. Activities and things to do websiteGoDo.com.au talks of trends in wine tourism and shares a handful of new ways to experience wine.\"CULINARY TOURISM is something we do \"The make-your-own-blend experience is all the barrels make and how to taste wines properly. about trying to get people to look at the individual They have always paid particular attention to hiringwell in Australia,\" says Leah Sourris, marketing components of wine and how they interact when people from the wine industry as guides, which ismanager for activities website GoDo.com.au. they're put together,\" says Amanda. \"People are a big point of difference. “It’s a lot easier to teach\"Revenue from food and wine related activities often surprised at how altering the blend by even someone how to drive a bus than it is to teach themlast year increased by 56% on the previous year, 1% can change the overall product.\" years of wine knowledge!” says Matthew.the highest growth across any GoDo category inFY2011. It shows us that Australians are actively The experience includes a bottle of the hand-made For a wine tasting experience in the heart ofseeking out food and wine experiences in their blend to take home. Penfolds have also partnered Sydney, Janet Lomax of Secrets of Sydney Walkingleisure time or when they travel.\" with luxury Barossa accommodation The Louise to Tours hosts a number of casual pre-dinner tours in offer “The Most Brilliant Blend” where their chef will and around the Rocks. Of the 2000 activities and things to do across create a meal around the wine that the person hasAustralia and New Zealand that are listed on GoDo. made (and throw in another bottle of the wine to “The majority of my customers are Sydneysiderscom.au, 300 of those are food and wine related. enjoy later). Penfolds also offers this experience to looking to learn a little more about their own town,”Delve deeper into the products listed on the site, corporate groups of up to 150 people. says Janet. Her Wine, Beer & Food Tasting Tourand you'll see there's anything on offer from the showcases the wares of a number of classictraditional wine tour through iconic Australian When the Australian Wine Tour Company first Sydney establishments. Janet takes you to Hartsvineyards to wine-themed walking tours located came on the scene in 1998, proprietor Matthew Pub, a true “gastro pub” which serves Australia'sright in the heart of CBDs. \"Those who are in the Noble's aim was to create a wine tour that turned a best hand-crafted beer (no commercial labels orwine tourism business these days are all about niche industry into a product accessible to all, both spirits allowed), Wine Odyssey, home to Australia’smaking it accessible to people,\" says Leah. with regard to price point and content. His Daily only aroma room and largest Australian wine list Yarra Valley Wine Tour is particularly competitively in the country, and Kables Restaurant at the Four “We’ve certainly found that interstate tourism is priced ($110 gets you a tour of four wineries and Seasons for a gourmet tasting plate. You chooseon the rise,” says Amanda Scheiner, cellar door a la carte lunch at Rocheford Wines). \"When we between David Blackmore’s 9-plus marble scoremanager of Penfolds in the Barossa Valley. This started out, there was only two tour companies Wagyu bresaola with rosemary & truffle dressing, orwinery is one of many throughout Australia who offering trips to the Yarra, but they were priced way kingfish sashimi rolls served with a raw soy dressing,have chosen to actively participate in tourism. And out of the normal reach of most,\" says Matthew. chilli paste, coriander and sesame seeds. Thisit makes sense – a cellar door experience gives \"We wanted to set the benchmark for a new kind gastronomic adventure is dispersed with stories ofcustomers a unique way to understand a wine's of Yarra Valley wine tour. For us, it's all about the convicts and early settlers, original pub cultureterroir. This has become increasingly important providing exceptional value at the price point, and and the ghosts that now lurk in Sydney’s famousin recent years as Australians have developed a it's working well for us.” haunts. Again, sensationally accessible – just akeener interest in the winemaking process. hop, step and a jump from the city’s busiest office The educational, entertaining and social tours blocks. “The beauty of my tours is that you can pop Amanda and her team at Penfolds recognised this have no more than 20 participants at any one time down after work for a mid-week night out. Peopleand have pioneered a truly hands-on interactive and offer a comprehensive look at winemaking are often surprised as to how much they don’t knowwine blending experience. Participants are given the from grape to glass, looking at how the grapes are about the very town they live in.”opportunity to pay homage to the winemakers' craft grown, the vinification process, the contributionin the very same lab that the iconic Grange is made. GoDo was established in 2005 as the world’s first real-time booking activities platform. Today GoDo provides over 2000 experiences from more than 900 suppliers across Australia and New Zealand. GoDo’s offering covers a range of activity types including extreme, food & wine, family, outdoor, creative, flying, pamper, getaway, driving and water experiences. To win one of the experiences listed above please see www.godo.com.au/go/winestate-competition.14 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012



europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWBORDEAUX TARGETS volume and value in 2009, is now number seven Both pinot blanc and pinot gris have becomeCHINA GROWTH in volume and number one in value, showing the trendy variety to be drinking, in oaked and that much of the expensive Bordeaux is going unoaked styles. Eric Manz, of Weingut ManzIT’S NOT just Australia that’s hoping and into duty-free Hong Kong, before being onward in Rheinhessen, said: “pinots (blanc and gris)planning China will solve over production issues. shipped to other Asian markets. fit well with food, so we’ve seen an increaseA fundamental shift in exports of Bordeaux has in production”. And of the change in stylesmaterialised over the past very few years as The European Union, whose supremacy until he added: “I used to make my top qualitymarkets re-orientate themselves to the Orient. recently seemed assured, now accounts for less weisserburgunder without oak until two yearsRecent figures show that China has become the than half of all Bordeaux exports by volume. ago. Then the gastronomy sector asked for (anbiggest export market by volume for Bordeaux, Bordeaux had already exported more value to Asia oaky style), and now I’m convinced this is theimporting some 314,000hl. than the EU by the end of 2010. This is a paradigm right way to do it”. shift for Bordeaux. It was only in 2009 that China, excluding Hong Joachim Heger, owner of Weingut Heger,Kong, became the biggest non-European Union FRENCH ALL THE RAGE IN GERMANY deep in Baden, whole-heartedly agreed, saying:export market for Bordeaux wines by volume. “pinots do very well with food. Pinot gris is veryChina had doubled its volume of wine imports A SHIFT of a different sort is happening popular in northern Germany, while in southernthat year to 137,000hl. Huge growth continued across the border in Germany, where varieties Germany people like pinot blanc at least asthrough 2010, and by the end of 2010, China originating in Burgundy are seeing something much as pinot gris”. He explained that thebecame the second biggest export market by of a rise to fashion. Grauburgunder (pinot gris/ grapes ripen sweetly in southern Germany, andvolume, inside or outside Europe, overtaking grigio) and weissburgunder (pinot blanc), he makes his wines dry, which is why they areboth the UK and Belgium. And the Bordeaux between them have not quite 10 per cent of so food-friendly. More than half his productionWine Council’s (CIVB) 12-month data to the Germany’s vineyard area. Plantings of both is of these two grape varieties.end of June, 2011, showed that China has have grown more than 50 per cent over the firstbecome the biggest export market by volume decade of the new millennium as appreciation As in Austria, pinot blanc does very wellfor Bordeaux, importing greater than 15 per cent for the quality achievable grows. on loess and limestone soils, and this helpsmore than now-number two market, Germany. explain why most pinot gris and blanc is grown They now rank, respectively, as the sixth and in the sunnier regions of Baden, Pfalz and The value figures are equally as remarkable. seventh most planted varieties in Germany. Rhinehessen, which regions run in the north-The UK, which has held biggest export market Combined with spätburgunder /pinot noir (see the south direction along either side of the Rhineby value for some years, succumbed to second previous issue of Winestate), these three varieties river south of Mainz. Herr Manz said: “loess,place in 2010, as the value of Hong Kong exports cover almost the same amount of vineyard as which covers most of the Rheinhessen region, isgrew by 130 per cent to €251m, and the UK’s Germany’s tour de force, riesling, around 20,000ha. a good soil for pinot blanc. And below the loessshrank 3 per cent to €227. By the 12 months to is limestone, which is an ideal soil for the pinotsthe end of June, 2011, the value of Hong Kong The consistent German nomenclature of these because the vines have to send roots deep,imports of Bordeaux wine had increased to three varieties is no coincidence, as all hail which is better to get minerality” in the wines.€326m, while the UK did not recover sufficiently originally from Burgundy. Pinot blanc was firstto maintain its historic position. documented in the 19th century as a white While neither grape is hugely aromatic, pinot mutation of pinot gris. And pinot gris had already blanc tends to be a bit more full bodied than pinot This leading position is an inevitable result of mutated from pinot noir. Almost as evidence for gris. Pinot blanc may be a little more reticent onHong Kong abolishing excise duties on wine in this the variety has a shiny, muddy-mauve colour, the nose, with delicate fresh, white nut notes amidFebruary, 2008, from what had been a 40 per which explains why it’s possible to get a faint white fruits such as apple and pear and white-cent tax, as a result of which the region has shot pink hue to the white wine made from pinot gris. fleshed nectarines, and sometimes a white pepperto prominence as the world’s leading hub of fine spice. Pinot gris tends to be more appley, lemonywine trading. The modern French location of both pinot and pearish with a moderate acidity. blanc and pinot gris now is Alsace rather than It was as recently as 2007 that China scraped Burgundy, but it is in Germany that both varieties When barrels are added into the fermentationits way into the top 10 export destinations, at have found a new home. As with spätburgunder and/or maturation mix, pinot gris takes onnumber 10. In three-and-half-years China has (after France and the US), Germany’s plantings an aromatic nutmeg and perfume spice.surged from number 10 volume and value to of pinot gris are also the third largest in the Pinot blanc can err towards a Burgundian stylenumber one in volume and number three in world, this time after Italy and the USA. of wine, with spice, fatness, texture and nuttyvalue. And Hong Kong, number 10 importer by notes to the wine.16 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

Distinctive, elegant, regional Shiraz. Icon Trophy - Class 33 2010 McLaren Vale Wine Show Gold Medal - Class 18 2009 McLaren Vale Wine Show Gold Medal - Class 18a 2008 NZ International Wine Show James Halliday - 90 points w w w. s e r a f i n o w i n e s . c o m . a u Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale South Australia T 08 8323 0157 | E [email protected] Enjoy Wine ResponsiblySER11275TC

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY ART AND SCIENCE OF SPARKLING WINEIN PATRICK Forbes wonderful 1967 book on varieties. The must, both red and white, is then vintage is 2001. So why do it? Claudio explains:champagne, he makes the point that champagne separately fermented as a normal white wine “The benefit is in the smooth, creamy textureis an art not a science. He pays due testament with the usual array of winemaking techniques, and complexity it brings to the wine. It alsoto the artistic skills of the winemaker. Yet, he such as malolactic fermentation (MLF) and barrel creates a persistence in the aftertaste that staysgoes on to say that the most remarkable thing fermentation being employed. there for a very long time.”about the Methode Champenoise process, isthe “exceptional extent to which it enables man Ed Carr, group sparkling winemaker for Accolade Remuage machine (Gyropalette) shakes andto manipulate grape-juice”. It has literally taken wines uses both MLF and barrel. “We ferment our gradually inverts the bottle to get the deadmany centuries of trial and error to perfect the juice on light solids and use 100 per cent MLF, yeast cells down to the neck of the bottle.process. Time and motion studies must have with our Arras label having a small proportion of Patrick Forbes comments on the days that thisbeen all the rage in 1967, as Forbes notes it new oak.” Ed says. process was done by hand: “A professionalwas estimated that a bottle of champagne was remueur can rotate up to 100,000 bottles in aattended by nearly 300 pairs of hands before it The art of making the base wine is as rigorous single working day”. The modern process usedwas ready to drink. as any other dry wine. But when a sparkling by Accolade Wines takes only three days, but winemaker tastes and compiles their final blend smaller produces like Freycinet still uses an old Such was the time honoured method of making or cuvee it is only half the story and they are not Spanish hand operated wheel system that takesquality sparkling wine, and, one reason why tasting the final product. a slower 25 days.it still costs a princely sum. There are fourmethods of making a wine sparkling; The term The first step in making a sparkling wine is The process of disgorgement removes theMethode Champenoise is reserved for the to add a mixture of sugar (between 19 and lees from the neck of the bottle. Only the neckproduce made in the Champagne region of 26g/litre) and yeast, known as Tirage Liqueur is plunged into a glycol- brine solution, whichFrance and is outlawed in the EU since 1994. to the cuvee. The bottles are topped with a freezes the yeast plug. Traditionally salt brineIn Australia we use the term traditional method crown seal, like the one used on a beer bottle. was used and Radenti still uses one, however,or Methode Traditionnelle or “fermented in the This stimulates a secondary fermentation it has lost favour due to problems with possible which takes four to six weeks. The alcohol corrosion. The bottle is then opened and the content is increased by between 1.3 and 1.5 pressure of the carbon dioxide expels the icy plug. A little wine is lost in disgorgement andPremium grapes that display natural high acidity are chosen a dosage (expedition liqueur or liqueuring),from cool climate regions such as Tasmania and Tumbarumba. consisting of wine and sugar is added, which determines the final level of sweetness. Radenti,bottle” to explain the process. Then there is the per cent and carbon dioxide is trapped in the for instance, receives a dosage of between 8 andtransfer method, charmat or tank method and bottle. The pressure is between six and seven 9g/litre. The wine is finally corked and a wire cagefinally the good old simple impregnation method atmospheres. Once fermentation is over the or muselet is tightened around the neck to holdthat produces a carbonated product, as distinct bottle is stored horizontally in contact with the the cork in place.from a sparkling wine. dead yeast cells. Eventually the yeast cells break down and their flavour is imparted to the The transfer method is exactly the same with In Australia sparkling wines are produced from wine, a process known as yeast autolysis. This the exception that the wine is removed from thea number of grape varieties. Chardonnay, pinot maturation on lees, which varies in duration bottle after maturation on lees and then filterednoir, and pinot meunier are the most commonly from nine months to several years, is essential and topped up, before being pumped into aused. Other grapes that are used to produce in determining the style of wine. Arras Brut Elite, fresh bottle. ”The process is all carried outsparkling wine include: semillon, chenin blanc their non-vintage style, spends an average of under inert gas and chilled so there is very littleand sauvignon blanc. Red grapes, such as six years on lees, while the Grand Vintage is compromise in quality” comments Ed Carr. Itshiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, are left for between seven and eight years and is an economical method for larger blends thatused to make full-bodied sparkling red wines. their special late disgorged spends a massive eliminates the costly practice of remuage and 10 years on lees before disgorgement. Claudio disgorgement. This method is extremely popular Premium grapes that display natural high Radenti’s sparkling wine from Freycinet has nine in Australia and brands such as the Bay of Firesacidity are chosen from cool climate regions years on lees, however, this sort of practice uses this process.such as Tasmania and Tumbarumba. The grapes by a small producer requires deep pocketsgenerally have a low sugar level of around 9-10 and a sympathetic accountant as this is a 10 Sparkling wines allow art and science todegrees baume. Whole bunches of grapes are year investment without a return. Their current gracefully merge and the only differencepressed very gently so as not to extract any between producers is, as Claudio Radenti putscolour or undesirable phenolics from the red it: “some larger company winemakers get to play with bigger toys.”18 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING PARTY TIME IN ITALYTHERE can’t be a foodie alive who hasn’t heard president of the Jeune Restaurateurs d’Europe, yet ravishing town, only 75km north of Milan, wasof the S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants created a Venetian menu that was as matchless as northern Italy’s most glamorous spa destination.List. Yet the mineral water brand that is a default the cloudless summer sky overhead. Like Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic, Sanchoice for most Australians when they book a table Pellegrino Terme once attracted the Who’s Whoat an Italian restaurant also sponsors the annual S. The next stop was Tuscany and, better yet, we of European royalty and the rich and famous ofPellegrino Cooking Cup. An event that may not have followed an itinerary that could be replicated by the early 20th century, who came here to gamblemuch resonance with regular folk but ranks as a most travellers if you don’t include such lavish away fortunes in addition to improving their health.sort of global MasterChef cook-off for young chefs. flourishes as a “chic-nic” at S. Pellegrino’s Medici- era Aqua Panna estate and a dinner cooked Nearly one billion of the famous green bottles Held in Venice every June, 2011 marked the 11th by Michelin-starred chefs in the medieval town bearing the red star are exported from Santime some of the world’s top young chefs (the age of Scarperia, complete with costumed dancers Pellegrino Terme every year to over 120 countries,limit is 30) held on to the contents of their stomachs waving Palio-style flags. We stayed at the Villa and there are big plans afoot to turn the town intoand their utensils to rustle up their signature dishes in La Maschere, about 29km from Florence and, one of Europe’s glitziest beauty and health centrestiny galleys aboard a small flotilla of yachts. A tough frankly, gorgeous is the only description for in time for the Milan Expo in 2015.enough task if boats are stationary. But a daunting this 16th century palazzo surrounded by anchallenge when you’re juggling pots and pans as the 18ha park reaching down to the shores of Lake Over the next three years, the Percassi Group,kitchen lists from side to side during an 18km race Bilancino. Breakfast on the terrace is the ultimate a global leader in spruiking prestige fashion andthat traces the coastline of Venice’s famous lagoon. Tuscan dream vision of straight-as-a-dye poplars, luxury brands such as Benetton, Ferrari and Calvin vineyards and air hazy with the smell of herbs. Klein, will invest between 130 - 140 million euros to The budget for this glamorous international affair create “the most beautiful hot springs in the world”.is $1 million or thereabouts. Australia, the eighthlargest market in the world for S. Pellegrino, is Breakfast on the terrace is the ultimate Tuscan dreamalways a fierce competitor and Adelaide chef, vision of straight-as-a-dye poplars, vineyards and air hazyMelanie Gowers, took out top honours in 2008. with the smell of herbs.Our man at the helm for 2011 was Soren Lascelles,from Assiette restaurant in Sydney, who lists Liam I’ve already decided that in my next life I am French star architect, Dominique Perrault, whoTomlin (formerly of Banc and now based in Cape coming back as a member of the Frescobaldi designed the much acclaimed French NationalTown) and ex-pat culinary stars such as David family. For 30 generations this Florentine clan Library, won an international competition to designThompson, of Nahm, and Brett Graham, of The has presided over the largest wine holding in the new spa complex. Located on the site of theLedbury in London, as his mentors. It showed, Tuscany. Over 5000ha of vines covering five old San Pellegrino bottling plant, Perrault’s soaring,too, in the succulence of his roast lamb glazed estates, including the idyllic vision that is Castello almost cubist structure will contrast starkly withwith black sugar and served with garlic, spiced di Nipozzano. A defensive fortress built in the the gentler, more curvaceous architecture of theeggplant and spinach puree, which clinched the year 1000, the surrounding 626ha spread lies neighbouring Grand Hotel, which Percassi says willAqua Panna People’s Choice Award and earned in the heart of the Chianti Rufina region and its boast a seven-star rating, grand apartment complexLascelles a third-place ranking overall. wine cellar and convention rooms are popular for and upmarket fashion mall when it re-opens. corporate showing-off events. As we sipped on To be frank, the 150 guest, three-day shindig was glasses of Montesodi Riserva, produced only from Every corner you turn reminds you of San Pellegrinoone of the best events I have ever attended, beginning Sangiovese grapes grown in the Montesodi vineyard Terme’s past and it’s a very illustrious one. The town’swith a stay at the Hilton Molino Stucky. A restored in exceptional years, the sight of the exquisite buffet spring was famous in the 13th century, attracting19th century flour mill on Giudecca Island, the hotel’s table groaning with Tuscan specialities such as pilgrims and the poorly from all over Italy. Leonardowonderful rooftop pool and bar offers panoramic views ribollita and bistecca alla fiorentina completed a da Vinci visited the area in 1509 to study the geologyof Venice and the best bellinis in the city. The gala fantasy that no one wanted to end. that produced the waters he labelled “miraculous”.dinner to announce the winners of the gruelling sailing/ Close your eyes and you can easily imagine the highcooking contest was held on the island of San Giorgio It was time to head north to sample more water society days when guests as disparate as GabrieleMaggiore. A fitting end to a lengthy day that started than wine. I don’t know why but I imagined the town d’Annunzio, poet, journalist and all-round wild boy,with the 11 international contenders staging a dawn of San Pellegrino Terme to be little more than a and Queen Margherita, the first Queen of a unitedraid on the renowned Rialto fresh produce market and grease-spot on the highway sort of place, notable Italy, came here to eat and drink in the fashionableended with a leap from their own yacht on to the judges only for being the location of the S.Pellegrino cafes and restaurants and to “pass the waters”. Andboat, the Timotei, with their finished dishes in hand. A bottling factory. But back in the day this fade, it’s still a very smart thing to do.greasy burger would have tasted sublime in the 16thcentury cloisters of the magnificent Renaissancechurch designed by Palladio. But Emanuele Scarello,20 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

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winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKEL PART SIX: AN APPETITE FOR WRITING BOOKSANDRÉ L Simon’s output as a writer was back to his Surrey cottage and edit, check and items which did not fit into the encyclopaedia’sprodigious. To supplement his modest income put together what he had collected. It was work categories. Simon was furious with what to usfrom the quarterly, Wine and Food, Simon kept which Simon loved. Each section was published may seem some minor production errors in thebusy writing books, as well as contributing separately by the Wine and Food Society, and book (such as pate instead of pâté), which wasregularly to the magazine and occasionally to sold well, a total of an unprecedented 100,000 published in 1949, and most copies were pulped.other publications. From 1933, when he founded, copies in five years. All but Cheese were reprintedwith AJA Symons, the Wine and Food Society, at least once. Simon was able to publish at least A best seller published around this time wasand began publishing its magazine, Simon wrote one title a year, more regularly than he had A wine primer, a text book for beginners onover 70 books. anticipated, because World War II curtailed Wine how to buy, keep and serve wine. Making its and Food Society functions, and gave him more appearance in 1946, it was twice reprinted, with The last in his lifetime was In the twilight, time for research and writing. Importantly, friends sales at the time of the second reprint in 1956published in 1969, a revised version of his first were able to find paper for him. being a very respectable 25,000 copies. Theautobiography, By request, which appeared little book is in four sections – Aperitif wines, orin 1957. Some of these books were minor and The nine sections were eventually combined wines served before meals, Beverage wines, orare mostly forgotten today. But in the 1930s, into one volume in the best-selling A Concise wines served during meals, Fortified wines, andwhile he was working briefly as a consultant for encyclopaedia of gastronomy, first published in wines for special occasions. Australia gets aan advertising agency, he began to plan what 1952 and itself reprinted. Its 827 pages make brief mention in the Beverage wines section, withis often regarded as his most important work, often gripping reading today. In the Meat section, a few words on the Hunter, the Great Westernwhich was eventually published as A concise for instance, there are entries for elephant, and Lilydale districts, which Simon considered toencyclopaedia of gastronomy. Simon originally hippo, dugong, squirrel, dog and bat, usually “produce the better and lighter types of beverageintended to write a dictionary of gastronomy, with recipes, and often with historical quotes. wines, most of them being sold for consumptionbut soon realised that there “was no sense in Kangaroo tail soup, made exactly the same in Australia”. The irrigation areas come in forKangaroo tail soup, made exactly the same way as ox-tail soup, gets a mention, as does theexperience of one contributor, who “has eaten a number of kangaroos from the London Zoo,where casualties were occasionally the result of free fights among the inmates”.starting with the letter A when it appeared quite way as ox-tail soup, gets a mention, as does criticism, producing the greatest quantities ofpossible, not to say likely, that it must be many the experience of one contributor, who “has wine, which is “lacking in charm and appeal asyears before I reached the letter Z”. eaten a number of kangaroos from the London wine”. Rutherglen and Corowa make the best Zoo, where casualties were occasionally the dessert wines, while the “Watervale (Springvale) So he decided instead to write a book on each of result of free fights among the inmates”. He and other districts of South Australia producethe chief types of food. These books, or sections, considered the flesh to be “very much like that the largest quantities of red wines suitable forwere published between 1939, beginning with of the hare, both before and after cooking”. The export”. Even Perth and Queensland vineyardsSauces, and ending, in 1946, with Cheese Wine section has a brief entry for Australia and, get a mention, producing a “limited quantity ofand Wine. In 1939 he had finished the second strangely, a separate entry for Yalumba, but no beverage red wines of moderate quality”.section, Fish, but because of the outbreak of war other Australian winery or region. It includespublication had to be postponed: paper was hard beer, cider, spirits and other beverages, with While Simon was busy working on his books heto get, and Fish wasn’t out until the following year. definitions and recipes. There is nothing on did not stop tasting wine. Although he was a cigarBut the delay did not stop Simon from working on New Zealand wine, but several entries for New smoker he had an enviable palate and palatethe other sections. He spent hours each week at Zealand birds in the section, Birds and their memory. On one occasion a group of Englishthe British Museum (Natural History) in London, eggs. As well as being fascinating to browse wine merchants decided to put them to the test.“looking through a very large number of books through, many of the recipes are just as useful Simon was blindfolded, and given glasses offor reliable and entertaining data about all the today as when the sections were first published. different wines to identify. He correctly namededible birds, beasts, fruits or plants which were each wine and its vintage. To end, his hosts offeredto be found in different parts of the world, and With the encyclopaedia out of the way, Simon him a glass of plain water. Simon swirled thefor trustworthy records of when and how and by returned to his idea of publishing a dictionary liquid, sniffed and tasted it, before pronouncing:whom they had been eaten”, as he wrote in his of gastronomy. It would have very brief entries, “I don’t know what it is. I doubt if I ever tasted itfirst autobiography, By request. He would then go and would include sugar, tea, coffee and other before. But I can tell you one thing. It won’t sell”.22 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012



Aiming at a Double CenturyThree families have dominated the rich and colourful history of WA iconic Houghton winery which has just celebrated its 175th anniversary. Mike Zekulich reports.SHOTS RANG OUT IN THE CLEAR, - but he never set foot on the prime Swan Valley there was nothing small about his great passion site. The first family ownership of Houghton came and vigour for he quickly set about clearingcrisp Fremantle air. Local merchant George French in 1859 when Colonial Surgeon Dr John Ferguson and developing the property with enthusiasmJohnson slumped to the ground, dead - victim paid 350 pounds for the property and put his son and dedication. But like all winemakers in theof the Swan River Colony’s first and only duel. Charles William in charge of what was mainly a big struggling colony, a shortage of consumersJohnson’s second Thomas Yule along with his bush block with only a few vines. The first vintage made life difficult even though winemakingopponent solicitor William Nairne Clark and his realised but 25 gallons and the cask involved was techniques improved dramatically. In 1890-91second were all arrested and charged with murder. not full. So Dr John washed some pebbles and for example, Charles won a certificate of meritFortunately for them they were acquitted for at that put them into the container. It was his son’s job at the Melbourne World Expo for a dry verdelho.time, just three years after the arrival in 1829 of for many days thereafter to drop in more pebbles,the first hopeful settlers to the new outpost, prison to make good the loss from evaporation, and to The award was well timed for shortly after thewould have been a most primitive existence. test the progress of the fermentation. This was discovery of gold led to the population quadrupling managed by holding a lighted match at the bung and at last, something of a decent domestic market. So what has this got to do with Houghton? Well hole. Initially the escaping fumes extinguishedYule, a retired British army officer was part of the the flame but when half a dozen matches in In 1910, the Fergusons recruited Chateausyndicate of three which owned Houghton when succession burned to the fingers, fermentation Tanunda brandy maker George Mann to take overit became a legal entity on November 1, 1836. was deemed to have ceased. and he quickly set about making his mark withHis partners were serving British army officers improved wine quality. But it was his son Jack, laterin India, Lieutenant Ninian Lowis and Lieutenant Charles was diminutive in stature - tipping the apprenticed to his father, who was to become theColonel Richmond Houghton after whom the scales at only about eight stone, or 50kg - but doyen of WA winemakers over 51 vintages (1922-property was named as he held the senior rank 1972) - and a great industry ambassador.Left: Dr John Ferguson. Centre: Houghton in the 1920s. Right: Charles William Ferguson.24 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

INITIALLY THE ESCAPINGFUMES EXTINGUISHEDTHE FLAME BUT WHENHALF A DOZEN MATCHESIN SUCCESSION BURNEDTO THE FINGERS,FERMENTATION WASDEEMED TO HAVE CEASED.Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 25

In 1937, Jack sought to produce something felt the equipment provided for stable bottling. goal was by making wines with such flavour andnew in the Houghton range in what was a huge “It gave my father the opportunity to make a white character that they would be able to take an equalgamble at the time - the first of the acclaimed white burgundy style confident that the wine would not amount of water, so satisfying the discerning buffburgundy table wines when nearly all the wine spoil”, he said. Explaining his technique, Jack and “reducing the hazards of modern travel byconsumed in Australia at that time was fortified. said: “I decided to leave the skins in contact with cutting the alcohol intake”. Many an important visitor the pick of the free-run juice for 24 hours before - famous musicians, High Court judges, politicians But the risk proved to be well taken and the wine fermentation. I wanted to extract flavour without and academics - were introduced to Houghtonsoon showed its class, winning first prize at the loss of refinement. I was agreeably surprised, and wines under the estate’s big pine trees with a bottleMelbourne Wine Show in its maiden year, and so were a lot of people around Australia. They had of chablis poured over a jug of iceblocks.again in 1938. Leading judge W.W. Senior made not thought that a warm area like the Swan Valleyspecial mention of the wine, likening it to the great could produce such a wine.” Indeed, many were Jack Mann was also noted for his range ofwhite burgundies of France - hence the idea for astonished by Jack Mann’s early success leading famous fortifieds and his dry reds such as the 1971the labelling. Among its famous devotees were to constant visits to Houghton over the years by cabernet sauvignon, which in 1974, was judged inlong-serving Prime Minister Sir Robert Menzies and prominent eastern states producers, not to mention the top 11 wines at the London International Wineinternational entertainer Rolf Harris, who was born those from overseas. (The white burgundy is still Show. At the time in Perth it was selling for lessand raised at Bassendean just a few kilometres produced, but today is marketed as white classic.) than $2 a bottle.from where the white burgundy was made. It reallycame about when Jack persuaded the Ferguson A staunch opponent of the nation’s brewers, Jack Next came the Hardy family, who in 1976, wonfamily to buy a Seitz sterilising filter from Germany, sought to have wine replace beer as the national a bidding battle with WA businessman Robertone of the first brought to Australia. Son Dorham drink of Australia. He saw the way to achieve the Holmes à Court for Houghton and its associated Valencia Wines.26 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

Above & opposite: Houghton museum. It resulted in Hardys being pushed to pay $4.25 was seen. However, after a poor start when Currently, he is responsible for the wines of fivemillion, $30,000 more than the maximum target sandblasting and grasshoppers destroyed brands in the WA portfolio -Amberley, Goundrey,the company had set. However, many in the WA most of the first vines planted in 1969, the Brookland Valley, Moondah Brook and Houghton,wine industry were elated at the outcome, for the vineyard become an important Houghton asset whose flagship reds include the Jack MannHardy family had a long and respected history while later, Moondah was used as a generic cabernet (mainly from Frankland River) and thein the business. It was dedicated to building marketing label. Gladstones cabernet from Margaret River.on Houghton’s strong foundations with a heavyinvestment program for the latest equipment and A major $13 million winery established in the While the Wisdom chardonnay from Pembertonfacilities to modernise the winery, which under South West at Nannup allows Houghton to focus is the pick of the whites for the buffs, the Whiteits guidance and based on some of the best on the region and the Great Southern, especially Classic which makes up 30 per cent of production,winemakers in the country, saw Houghton become Frankland, for its top drops. In recent years, is still a great favourite. Despite subtle changesa glowing jewel in the new owner’s crown. ownership switched to Constellation Australia to the blend, including the introduction of some and then to private equity group Champ 111 chardonnay, it is still based on the unfashionableMODERN TIMES Funds through its fledgling Accolade Wines, chenin blanc (50-60 per cent) but continues to leading to speculation of a name change surprise with its quality and long ageing ability.A PIONEERING move to Gingin north of Perth to because of the difficulty of pronouncing Since its inception in 1994 the Jack Mann hasestablish the Moondah Brook vineyard came at Houghton in some markets. Senior winemaker, won 33 trophies around Australia while the Classica time when industry attention was being firmly Ross Pamment, scoffed at the suggestion. since 1980 when for many years it was marketedfixed on the new cooler areas in the south of the Remarkably, he is only the 13th in Houghton’s as White Burgundy, has won 31. Its success hasstate where the real future for premium wines history to hold the senior role. put it among Australia’s top 10 white wines. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 27

OTHERWISE KNOWN AS- it never rains but it pours.28 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

Vintagreepo2 r0t1 1A S F O R A N Y Y E A R , offerings were made regions were, in the main, down in their share of crush. Chardonnay and cabernet sauvignonto the weather gods, prayers were whispered in emerged as heroes across the country.church and fingers were crossed. And as usual,it was to no avail. Vintage 2011 delivered some Problems caused by rain and then disease sorelyvery stern challenges, and they came through an tested the resolution of vignerons in dealing withunexpected agency – vignerons were faced not the difficult task at hand. While growers who tookwith the drought conditions of 2007, or pockets early action to thin canopies and bunches andof fire, brimstone and smoke taint, but with rain, imposed an early spraying regime often staved offand in most districts around the country, a lot of it. the worst, not all were able to follow recommended practices. Some growers found their vineyards Western Australia was spared the agony, but too waterlogged to use their tractors and thereelsewhere, almost across the board, extended were widespread shortfalls in the availability ofand unseasonal rain caused varying degrees chemicals for spraying.of difficulty. It was cool too; in many placesgrapes struggled to ripen, with the season Starting at the top, Queensland was the worstrunning late from the outset and harvest not rain-affected state of all, with some areas enduringcompleted until three to four weeks later than falls of between 600 and 700mm. Yields were downnormal. Heavy rain ushered in the first waves of by around 70 per cent in some regions.mildew in December, and for most vignerons theensuing months brought little relief as botrytis The Granite Belt saw late season varietiesand other bunch rots compounded the distress struggling to reach desired sugar levels, althoughof the vines. Parts of Victoria had record summer some micro regions yielded fruit of exceptionalrainfall and flooding, and there was persistent quality with a number of white varieties, includingrain at well above average levels in numerous verdelho, exhibiting magnificent flavour. In Southother areas. Burnett several vineyards saw entire crops lost. Some regions lost almost entire crops through In New South Wales, rain proved more thanthe rejection of damaged fruit, while other crops just a dampener. Higher than average rainfallwere not harvested at all. On the positive side, combined with below average temperature duringsome exceptional results were reported in pockets the ripening season to see fruit picked later withfrom most regions. In general, white varieties fared lowers baumes and higher acids. As a result,better in the meagre ripening conditions. most regions saw production levels drop. Cowra, Orange and the Southern Highlands all felt the The Winemakers’ Federation estimated a same pinch of marginal ripening conditions andharvest of 1.62 million tones, a small increase also suffered downpours of rain well into autumn,on 2010, yet still far more than the industry with the inevitable consequences in terms ofdemands for the current market. That aside, the mildew and mould.Riverland and Riverina were up and the cooler Left: Barossa vineyard with stormy sunset sky. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 29

2 011 The Hunter proved to be an exception, with the In Victoria, as in much of New South Wales, valley enjoying near classic conditions (the usual the cool season saw the crops picked as much VIRNETPAOGRET combination of fierce heat and humidity), producing as three weeks later than normal, leading to the both whites and reds of good quality – chardonnay, development of ripe fruit flavours at lower sugar “VIGNERONS WERE semillon and shiraz all prospered – at full alcohol levels and higher natural acidity. The results were FACED NOT WITH THE levels. While tonnages in the Riverina were the low alcohol, elegant wines from most regions – DROUGHT CONDITIONS second highest on record, there was also a heavy including riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris and OF 2007, OR POCKETS OF disease presence, and quality fluctuated wildly. pinot noir. The quasi-Burgundian enclaves of Yarra FIRE, BRIMSTONE AND Valley and Mornington Peninsula fared reasonably SMOKE TAINT, BUT WITH In the Canberra region, vineyards enjoyed the relief well, and their pinots look promising if a little pallid. RAIN, AND IN MOST to drought bought by an entire annual rainfall during Many other reds, notably shiraz, struggled to ripen DISTRICTS AROUND THE spring 2010, but not the downy and powdery mildew at all in low temperatures prevalent across Victoria, COUNTRY, A LOT OF IT.” that ensued through the growing season. Many Bendigo and Heathcote included. vineyards were later affected by botrytis infections Above: View of a vineyard, Margaret River. in autumn. Handpicking around disease-affected The fortified grape crop around Rutherglen Opposite: Yarra Valley vines. areas meant that much of the wine that did result was suffered very heavy losses, while the wet and30 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 excellent. The outcome was lower alcohol wines at cool conditions were at their most extreme in the full-flavour ripeness; higher acidity and a pristine taste. vineyards of the high country, proving devastating for the Macedon Ranges, Upper Goulburn and the The wet extended and intensified into Victoria with King and Alpine valleys. strong winter and then spring rains. Again, what initially seemed a welcome answer to previous Still more rain came with a cool and thus drought conditions ushered in downy mildew and slow start to the season in Tasmania. Growers bunch rot for many growers. Effective disease were tested with disease pressure, but active management strategies were put in place in many measures and hand-picking meant a harvest of areas, but there were numerous other cases where delicate and concentrated fruit of superior quality the toll was high, with some vineyards failing entirely. with lower baume and good acidity. The pinot noir was rated highly, and fetched high prices from sparkling wine makers. South Australia did not escape the high rainfall curse. Rejection and down-grading of fruit saw a reduction in tonnage in the state. Disease risk was prevalent, although conditions did vary from region to region and by variety. Thanks in large part to doses of disease, the Barossa, Clare and the Coonawarra all reported significant reductions to their crop volumes. Chardonnay and riesling proved to be standouts (just try the new releases for confirmation), along with some parcels of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. It still remains to be seen whether there will be a 2011 release of several of South Australia’s best-known super-premium shiraz wines. In the West, half a continent away, it was an entirely different scenario. The summer was both

warm and dry – March broke heat records in theMargaret River – and in many places led to one ofthe earliest ends to vintage seen by winemakers.Chardonnay, semillon and cabernet sauvignonwere the varieties where the best performancewas noted. Margaret River reported increased yields fromharvested fruit, with whites exhibiting lowerbaumes and higher natural acidity. Both whitesand reds, especially the hallmark cabernet,performed strongly. Major falls of rain in theGreat Southern during January gave the State itsonly taste of the battle with mildew and botrytisexperienced in the rest of the country, but therain was short-lived. Apart from run-ins withflocks of hungry silver-eyes, Western Australianwinemakers had much to smile about. With the national shiraz crop down by 20 percent and savage losses in the cooler regions, itwas perhaps natural that suspicions should bevoiced that the overall increase in crop levelswas made up from grapes with yields swollenby the late rain. Even with reports of tension overrejection of grapes and numerous unfulfilledcontracts, there remain suggestions that anotherseveral thousand tonnes of fruit should not havebeen picked, let alone crushed. Such concernsare unlikely to fade until the nagging problem ofoversupply is resolved. The 2011 vintage, which proved both exhaustingand dispiriting for many vignerons, will leavean overall legacy of lighter bodied and loweralcohol wines. But while their flavours may justlybe considered uncharacteristic, wines fromvineyards that skirted disease and which wereable to take advantage of the prolonged ripeningshould prove very rewarding. For south eastern Australia, 2011 signalled aresounding return to form by Jupiter Pluvius, asthe Romans dubbed the god of rain. As the 2012growing season begins, there is a fervent hopethat this year he will show a little more moderation.Fingers crossed.Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 31

Awards 2011WINE OF THE YEAR 1 2 34 1. Rod Easthope, Craggy Range Wines with the Wine of the Year trophy. 2. David Morris, Morris Wines with both the Australia Winemaker of the Year and Australia Wine Company of the Year awards. 3. Dominic Maxwell, Greystone Wines with the New Zealand Winemaker of the Year award. 4. Peter Simic presenting the New Zealand Wine Company of the Year award to Matt Thomson, Saint Clair Family Estate.

WINE OF THE YEAR - Craggy Range Le Sol Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2009RUNNER-UP WINE OF THE YEAR - Coolangatta EstateEstate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2006AUSTRALIAN WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - David Morris, Morris WinesAUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Morris WinesNEW ZEALAND WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Dominic Maxwell, Greystone WinesNEW ZEALAND WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Saint Clair Family Estate 123 4 56 1. Michael Cooper presenting the Sauvignon Blanc of the Year award to Andrew Blake, Giesen. 2. Peter Simic presenting the Sparkling of the Year award to Clive Jones, Twin Islands. 3. Peter Simic and Gloria Poupard-Walbridge, Cotter House, presenting the Alternative White of the Year award to David Evans-Gande, Passage Rock. 4. Richard Friend, Pokolbin Estate with the Riesling of the Year award with sponsor Mark Trumble, Photography Room and Judy and Glen Kelly, Art Wine with the Pinot Gris/Grigio of the Year award. 5. Joanne Irvine, Judy Kelly, Art Wine, sponsor Patrick McBride, Bartercard and Glen Kelly with the Pinot Gris/Grigio of the Year award. 6. Sponsor George Willcox, Pellenc, Greg Bishop, Coolangatta with the Semillon of the Year award and finalists, Richard Friend, Pokolbin Estate and Duane Roy, Glandore Estate. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 33

Semillon - PELLENC TROPHY 1st Coolangatta Estate Estate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2006 Pokolbin Estate Hunter Valley Semillon 2007 Pokolbin Phil Swannel Hunter Valley Semillon 2006 Glandore Estate Elliott Hunter Valley Semillon 2006 Gartelmann Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2003 Chardonnay - WINE SHIELD TROPHY 1st Mistletoe Reserve Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2009 Bay Of Fires Tasmania Chardonnay 2009 Wolf Blass White Label Aged Release Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2007 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Keltern Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2010 Robert Oatley Craigmoor AC1 Mudgee Chardonnay 2009 Alternative Red - LIQUID ASSET TROPHY 1 Villa Maria Reserve Hawkes Bay Malbec 2009 Reillys Leasingham Tempranillo 2010 Morris Rutherglen Durif 2008 Gapsted Wines Alpine Valleys King Valley Saperavi 2006 Claymore Wines You’ll Never Walk Alone Clare Valley Grenache Mataro Shiraz 2009 1 2011THE AWARDS 2Sparkling - WELLCOM TROPHY1st Twin Islands Marlborough Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV Patrick of Coonawarra Mother of Pearl Sparkling Coonawarra Chardonnay Pinot NV Brown Brothers Milawa Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV Yellowglen Vintage Perle Victoria Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2006 Seppelt Original Great Western Sparkling Shiraz 2006Alternative White - COTTER HOUSE TROPHY 3 41 Passage Rock Waiheke Island Viognier 2010 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Arneis 2010 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 12 Lone Gum Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2010 Johanneshof Cellars Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2010 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawkes Bay Viognier 2010Pinot Gris/Grigio - BARTERCARD TROPHY1st Artwine Clare Valley Pinot Grigio 2011 Burnt Spur Martinborough Pinot Gris 2010 Prophet’s Rock Central Otago Pinot Gris 2010 Greystone Sand Dollar Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2010 Greystone Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2010Riesling - PHOTOGRAPHY ROOM TROPHY1st Pokolbin Estate Hunter Valley Riesling 2011 Patrick of Coonawarra Estate Wrattonbully Riesling 2010 Penna Lane Skilly Clare Valley Riesling 2010 Patrick of Coonawarra Aged Wrattonbully Riesling 2006 Peter Lehmann Wigan Eden Valley Riesling 2005Sauvignon Blanc - TUCKER CREATIVE TROPHY1st Giesen The Brothers Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Yealands Way Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Kim Crawford Regional Reserves Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Sacred Hill Halo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 201034 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

5 1. Rilka Warbanoff, Wine Shield presenting the Chardonnay of the 9 7 6 Year award to Ken Sloan, Mistletoe Winery. 2. Adrian Emeny and Carlos Escobar, National Wine Centre. 3. Michael Cooper presenting the Merlot & Blends of the Year award to Miles Dinneen, Crossroads Winery. 4. Peter Dunlop, Classic Oak presenting the Pinot Noir of the Year award to Jean Gibson, Lowburn Ferry Wines. 5. Adrian Emeny, National Wine Centre presenting the Sweet White of the Year to Robert Black, Bunnamagoo Estate. 6. Alastair Donaldson. Donaldson Walsh Lawyers presenting the Fortified of the Year to David Morris, Morris Wines. 7. Peter Simic and Michael Cooper presenting the Alternative Red of the Year award to Nick Picone, Villa Maria. 8. Ian Henderson (right) presenting the Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year to Dennis Parker & Maree Saraceni, Saracen Estates. 9. Michael Cooper presenting the Shiraz/Syrah of the Year award to Rod Easthope, Craggy Range Wines. 10. Patrick McBride, Bartercard and John Avenell. 8Pinot Noir - CLASSIC OAK TROPHY 101st Lowburn Ferry Home Block Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 Saint Clair Family Estate Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 Clifford Bay Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 Mondillo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 Pencarrow Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009Merlot - VINTEC TROPHY1st Crossroads Winery Vineyard Selection Kereru Road Merlot Cabernet 2009 Sacred Hill Halo Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2009 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels The Gimblet Hawkes Bay Merlot Blend 2009 Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Merlot 2009 Villa Maria Reserve Hawkes Bay Merlot 2009Cabernet Sauvignon - HAMBURG SÜD TROPHY1st Saracen Estates Reserve Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Quilty Running Stitch Mudgee Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Lake Breeze Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Lake Breeze Bullant Langhorne Creek Cabernet Merlot 2009 Yalumba The Signature Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2006Shiraz/Syrah - AMCOR TROPHY1st Craggy Range Le Sol Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2009 Krondorf Symmetry Barossa Shiraz 2008 Bilancia La Collina Hawkes Bay Shiraz 2008 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Barossa Shiraz 2010 Fox Creek Short Row McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009Sweet Whites - NATIONAL WINE CENTRE TROPHY1st Bunnamagoo Estate Kids Earth Fund Autumn Mudgee Semillon 2010 McWilliams Morning Light Riverina Botrytis Semillon 2008 Saddler’s Creek Botrytis Supreme Hunter Valley Semillon 2008 Riverby Estate Marlborough Noble Riesling 2009 Johanneshof Cellars Noble Late Harvest Marlborough Riesling 2008Fortifieds - DONALDSON WALSH LAWYERS TROPHY1st Morris Rare Old Premium Rutherglen Rare Tawny NV Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Series Glenrowan Classic Topaque NV Morris Rare Old Premium Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat NV Morris Cellar Reserve Rutherglen Grand Liqueur Muscat NV Morris Cellar Reserve Rutherglen Grand Liqueur Tokay NV Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 35

winewords C A R O L I N E D U N NSKYE MURTAGHIn her downtime you might find Adelaide-based Leaving university, you were the most sought- Are there any similarities between tea-blendingCaroline Dunn dabbling in her “other” creative after graduate in some time - what lured you to and winemaking?passion of tea-blending, but it’s as a winemaker with Wolf Blass? I do blend teas to come up with creative new teaWolf Blass for which she has earned her reputation Wolf Blass held a certain fascination for me, which experiences - just for fun, for my own use. It’s veryas one of the shining lights on the Australian wine at the time not too many people really understood. similar to winemaking, finding a harmony of flavoursscene. After an initial foray into the hospitality industry The brand was going through a few challenges and and balance on the palate.on Australia's east coast, Caroline undertook a was seen to be a bit tired and old-fashioned. But theBachelor of Science (Oenology) degree at the company was driven to re-invigorate it, so the timing Do you have a soft spot for any one particularUniversity of Adelaide. Her potential for future was perfect for me. I saw that as a great personal wine variety?success in the winemaking field became apparent challenge and sought out Wolf Blass as a place I If I had to choose one, I guess I would have to sayquite early on. On her way to graduation, Caroline really wanted to work. Fortunately, chief winemaker shiraz. While I love drinking riesling, semillon andcollected every major academic prize up for grabs Chris Hatcher recognised my passion and took me on. pinot noir - I love making shiraz. It’s the variety Iand finished at the top of the class. She joined the feel I have the most natural affinity for, both in theWolf Blass team as a red winemaker in 1997 - and What makes the winemaking team at Wolf Blass vineyard and in the winery. It’s a very intuitive feelit's been her professional home ever since. Over the today work so well? - an understanding of what each parcel of fruit canlast 14 years she has contributed to and managed We all share a passion and dedication for the offer and what’s required to let it express itself.the production of numerous award-winning wines brand - and none more so than Chris Hatcher whounder the company’s globally recognised brand. A leads the team. We’re all committed to making the What’s the best bottle of wine you’velist of Top 5 career highlights would have to include best possible wine at all price points, with each ever consumed?working with John Glaetzer during the 1998 vintage. of us playing our own role while at the same time Back in my early days with Brokenwood, all theTogether they made the 1998 Wolf Blass Black Label being part of an integrated team. We’re all a bunch vintage workers would bunk in together andwhich went on to collect a record-breaking fourth of perfectionists but we come together in a great share some unforgettable dinners and equallyJimmy Watson Trophy, securing Caroline the honour synergistic relationship. Of course, there’s also a unforgettable wines. Most were thanks to theof becoming the first female name to be etched on to bit of healthy competition between us which just generosity of Iain Riggs who loved to share hisAustralian winemaking’s most coveted award. Many helps to strengthen the team and bring us all closer. wines and knowledge with winemakers-in-training.further accolades have followed but for Caroline, her One of the most memorable was during an optionsgreatest achievement will always be creating wines Do you collect wine personally? game in which we were asked if we thought thewhich people simply love to drink. I take more enjoyment in sourcing wines for wine was pre or post-Second World War. We all particular occasions. It’s great fun to search wine thought the wine was younger but it turned out toHow did you come to pursue a career in the stores, auctions and online for the perfect wine to be an 1865 Madeira - so fresh and vibrant, andwine industry - was it fluke or fate? suit the occasion and I get very excited when I find full of life. A stunning wine and an experience IProbably a bit of both - it certainly wasn’t planned. true treasures. I think in some ways this broadens will never forget.I’d been working at The Bather’s Pavilion restaurant my wine outlook a little more than just grabbingin Sydney and it was time for a change. I wanted to something from the cellar. Although I may have What’s on the horizon for Caroline Dunn in 2012?work with wine but I really didn’t know how or what a certain wine style in mind, I am never quite 2011 was a very challenging vintage for theI was going to do. I was invited up to Brokenwood sure what I will end up with and often discover Australian wine industry but I feel in my gut thatin the Hunter Valley to experience vintage for a something I may not have expected. 2012 will turn that around and be a defining vintage.few days. Five days became six weeks and I was It just has a good ring to it. I hope I’m right.hooked. I loved getting my hands (and the rest of Who’s the one person in the winemaking world,me) dirty, getting stuck into crushing grapes and past or present, you’d like to share a glass ofemptying red fermenters. From then on, I knew wine with?winemaking was my destiny. Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin - although I don’t doubt she would have a veryDid your time in hospitality help you intimidating demeanour. She was only 27 years oldas a winemaker? when her husband died in the early 19th centuryThe hours I worked certainly prepared me for and she took over the reins of what has becomeworking vintage. Working in a restaurant is like one of Champagne’s greatest houses, Veuveworking vintage all year round. But really, I suppose Clicquot - a tough gig during the Napoleonic era.it gave me a great understanding of how wine is Her innovation and dedication to quality played aappreciated at the receiving end. It’s very different large role in making Champagne what it is today.to know and understand wine from a winemaker’s She believed there was only one quality - the best.perspective, than it is to know and understand What would we drink? Champagne of course!wine from a restaurant perspective - how wineswork with food, and in particular creating a wine list Asian food is one of your passions – what wouldwhich complements the style of food a restaurant be your ideal “wok & wine” match?specialises in. It’s another factor which comes into Crispy skinned, slow roasted Chinese five-spiceplay when making winemaking decisions. pork belly - with a great pinot noir.36 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

REPORT 2011WINESTATE SHOWCASES GREAT AUSTRALIANWINE REGIONS AND THEIR ICONIC WINESAT VINITALY 2011AFTER LAST YEAR'S successful Peter Jackson conducted a detailed presentation THE WINES PRESENTED BY of each wine as wines were presented one by WINESTATE WERE:Mediterranean tasting of Italian, Spanish and one. Several questions were taken about eachPortuguese wines, Winestate was invited to Vinitaly wine - mainly concerning use of oak, packaging, · Rosenvale Shiraz 2008 (Barossa)2011 – the world’s largest wine show – to present a food matching and regionality. All the wines wererange of wines to the media, public and wine trade. well received, with comments from “very good” · Fox Creek Sparkling Shiraz NVWinestate’s marketing and promotions manager, through to “outstanding” and “world class”. (McLaren Vale)Peter Jackson, assembled a line-up of 12 boutiqueAustralian wineries, the theme being “Great The wines were again compared in discussion · Koonara Cabernet Sauvignon 2008Australian Wine Regions and their Iconic wines\". against the best French, Spanish, Italian and (Coonawarra) South American imports - and won every timeThere is a perception that this wine exhibition, the due to flavour, approachability and price, even · Poacher’s Ridge Riesling 2008world’s biggest - with 150,000 registered visitors with the high dollar/euro exchange rate. Only a (Great Southern WA)paying 20 Euros each, 12 major display halls, plus few guests raised the issue of the relatively highexternal displays, and over 4000 exhibitors - is just alcohol content of the Australian wines (14.5 per · Preston Peak Shiraz 2008for Italian wines, but this is not correct because cent average) compared with the Italian wines, (Granite Belt QLD)many countries exhibited their wines to a vast at 12-13 per cent average. This was quicklyaudience of prospective buyers. It seems that the dismissed as all present agreed the wines were · III Associates Squid Ink Shiraz 2008London Wine Trade Fair is still the main venue for perfectly balanced regardless of alcohol levels (McLaren Vale)Australian wine promotions in Europe but it is clear – in fact the guests did not know the level untilthe Vinitaly Exhibition offers far more promotional they saw the labels! · God’s Hill Shiraz 2006 (Barossa)opportunities, particularly for those producing orpassionate about Mediterranean varieties, and The overall feedback was extremely positive, with · Simon Hackett Shiraz 2004those who wish to target the emerging Asian guests commenting on the distinct styles apparent (McLaren Vale)market (in particular the Chinese market). in the wines from each Australian region. There was extensive discussion on climate, irrigation, · Rowley Estate Shiraz 2002The Australian tasting was again well run by the benefits of screw cap vs cork and retail and (Central Victoria)Vinitaly staff and professional sommeliers from restaurant selling prices. It was also noted by thethe Associazione Italiana Sommeliers. Vinitaly guests and Vinitaly participants that there was only · Mt Eyre Semillon 2010 (Hunter Valley)also supplied Italian-speaking staff to assist with one Australian exhibitor – Winestate!translation during the presentation. · Pokolbin Estate Semillon 2006 All attendees were provided with brochures as (Hunter Valley)The event and the wines from Australia were well as all contact details of the suppliers.extensively promoted by Winestate as well as by · Sandhurst Ridge Sauvignon BlancVinitaly in Italian print and television in the lead- Overall it was a highly successful promotion 2009 (Central Victoria)up to Vinitaly and during the event. It was also and Winestate was proud to represent Australiafeatured in the Vinitaly online promotions, as well on a world stage. We thank the Australian · Aramis Shiraz 2008 (McLaren Vale)as the hard copy catalogue distributed to tens of wineries which participated in Vinitaly and alsothousands of media and professional visitors. the Italian Chamber of Commerce, Melbourne · Bethany Wines Cabernet Merlot 2007 (in particular Luca and Milva) who made our (Barossa)The Australian wines were served over two hours participation possible. The first-class effortsin a very comfortable tasting hall, with each bottle of the staff from the Associazione Italiana · Wise Wines Lot 80 Cabernet Sauvignonhaving been checked for quality. The wines were Sommeliers was also appreciated. 2009 (Margaret River)served in full-sized Riedel glasses with white linentablecloths for each table. Winestate will again be representing Australia at Vinitaly 2012. Dates are from 25-28 March 2012.Peter Jackson hosted the event, with background www.vinitaly.cominformation supplied by the wineries involved,and an Australian regional overview prepared byWinestate Publisher, Peter Simic. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 37

bookwormsKATE NASHWINE, TERROIR EASY EVENTS AND PARTIES LYNDEY AND BLAIR’S DVDAND CLIMATE CHANGE TASTE OF GREECE (Cost-effective and professional tipsBy John Gladstones for throwing a great party) By Lyndey Milan and son BlairPublished by Wakefield Press RRP $59.95 By Michael Sfera Published by Rockpool Publishing RRP $19.95 Published by Naked Flame ProductionsMainstream opinions on man-made climate changeare challenged skilfully and persuasively in the Long after the party’s over, author Michael RRP $29.95latest work from Dr John Gladstones, OAM. Backed Sfera aims to have guests still talking about itby prodigious research, the agricultural scientist for all the right reasons and organisers relaxed This seven-part series offers viewers a unique takeconcludes that the effects of climate change have been and basking in the glory of achieving a well-run on Greece as it follows food, wine and lifestyledramatically overestimated and predicts future global event. The author, who runs his own event and personality Lyndey Milan and her actor/voice-overclimate changes due to human activities will be much hospitality business, says the key to a successful son Blair on their road trip through the Peloponnese.less than feared, and largely benign for viticulture. event lies in its planning. Encouraging readers The entertaining, easy-to-watch travelogue, which to think more like an event manager, he gives an recently screened on SBS, takes viewers on a Dr Gladstones is well known in the industry, having insight into how venue operators think, how to get cultural journey through Greece, viewing the countrywritten the seminal Viticulture and Environment in the best prices for drinks and other insider tips. through the eyes of an Australian foodie mother1992, and in 1965 identifying Western Australia’s educating her 29-year-old son along the way.Margaret River region as promising for high-quality With more than 16 year’ experience, Sfera’s bookwine production. The area has since gone on to fulfil addresses the questions for which party throwers Her attempts to enlighten her son also educatehis prediction, its wines now renowned around the seek answers such as: How many glasses do I viewers as they travel, tasting regional food andworld. Wine, Terroir and Climate Change resulted need? What should I do if it rains? How can I reduce wine with the odd cultural diversion. The pairingfrom Dr Gladstones’ resolve to explore further costs? What can I do in advance? The author also works well with Blair and Lyndey offering differingthe topics of terroir and climate change and their freely shares his advice on how best to prevent experiences: for example, Blair clambers aroundinterrelations. It attempts to define “terroir” in the tricky situations such as a chair collapsing, a sound the Acropolis while Lyndey visits the museum, Blairlight of modern science, emphasising its importance system malfunction, a drunken fight breaking out takes us on a bungy jump down the 70m Corinthianfor long-term viticultural and winemaking success. or even an air-conditioner failing. Canal while Lyndey introduces us to Greek friendsWritten during his tenure as an Honorary Research who offer viewers an insight into local life.Fellow at the University of WA, Dr Gladstones says he Sfera has crammed the book with party themes,took a deep study of the basic scientific evidence and decor, invitation, music/entertainment and drink Presented in an entertaining, interesting way,found much that was questionable in the argument suggestions. The book’s final chapter has a it is easy to get swept along in the culture andfor global warming by man-made greenhouse gases. beverage planning guide, including the number excitement of new places and the experiences of glasses needed, cocktail recipes, themed- they offer. Food adventures (visiting a patisserie Wine, Terroir and Climate Change has been food recipes, and a food and wine matching specialising in Greek yoghurt in Athens, cookingwelcomed by those keen to counter climate guide. A budget planner is an appendix, along fish on the beach at Vivari, visiting bee hives athysteria. Meticulously researched, the book also with an easy events checklist and a creating your Kythira and enjoying chocolate-covered figs ofdraws on the insights of 19th-century French own themes/ideas template. Kalamata) are scattered through the pair’s visitauthors for guidance on selecting the best sites and as they enjoy the country’s rich scenery, lifestyle,most suitable grape varieties in wine production. Available in all good bookstores and online at history and culture. Screening over 175 minutes www.rockpoolpublishing.com.au. the series pays tribute to Blair, who died of acute myeloid leukemia in April 2011.Stop Press - Wine, Terroir and Climate Change Winestate has two copies of East Events and Winestate has two signed copies of of Lyndeyhas been inducted into the Gourmand Hall of Parties to giveaway. and Blair’s Taste of Greece to giveaway.Fame 2011. It is the FIRST Australian wine bookto be bestowed with this honour. See www.winestate.com.au for details. See www.winestate.com.au for details.38 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

3517 Caves Road, Wilyabrup SARACEN [email protected] M WA RINGSABReESTt RRIeVDE R (08) 9755 6099 IN AuStRAlIA Saracen Estates is located in the picturesque wine producing region of Margaret River within Australia’s South West corner. The vineyard and cellar door are located in the beautiful rolling hills of the famed sub region of the Wilyabrup Valley. Here we utilise the ideal climate and soil provided by nature together with the best in modern technology and age old traditions, to enable winemaker Bob Cartwright to craft wines of the highest quality. Saracen Estates is one of the top producers in the Margaret River wine region and we have received many awards and accolades in our relatively short history. Winestate Wine of the Year Australia & NZ 2011, is Saracen Estates 2008 Reserve Cabernet winning “Best Cabernet Sauvignon” over 11,000 wines and 2000 Cabernet’s! Saracen Estates were proud to be one of the 7 Australian trophy winners and the only winner from Western Australia. The Saracen Estates 2009 Reserve Shiraz, 2008 Cabernet and 2009 Shiraz also made it into the top 5% nominated for Wine of the Year!www.saracenestates.com.au

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINS Adelaide has never had any shortage of good, Beijing by the owners, becomes more obvious in pan-roasted and finished in the oven, served with inexpensive Chinese restaurants, especially in the main menu where traditional northern Chinese watercress sauce and spiced beetroot gel, with a its Gouger Street-Chinatown precinct around the dishes are presented in a most contemporary and sprinkling of spiced beetroot powder. It sounds Central Market. Chinese fine dining, however, has immaculate way. When customers discover dishes fussy but it is perfectly balanced both in flavour been much harder to find and for years dominated such as the combination steamed and crispy port and appearance. Mcnamara was previously at the by Roz Chow’s House of Chow. Now there are two dumplings in a spicy broth, the shredded spicy super-luxury Longitude 131 at Ayers Rock, so he more high flying contenders, each with impressive beef with five spices and Sichuan pepper, or the knows how to pamper his customers, while new pedigrees behind them. The most recent to open, oven baked beef rib with Sichuan pepper and sommelier Alessandro Ragazzo, most recently in October, is From Orient with 200 seats on two star anise sauce word is rapidly going to get out at Auge restaurant in Adelaide, was previously at levels in what until recently was Fontana di Trevi, that the cooking here is exceptional. And if they the Hotel Cavalieri Hilton in Rome and brings a a popular Italian restaurant for more than 20 years. keep going to the traditional menu and try the huge depth of knowledge of the European wines Its owner, Peng Li, controls a restaurant group Shui Zhu – sliced fish soaked in chilli and green on a very extensive list. A new a la carte menu in China that owns 10 restaurants in Beijing and peppercorn sauce, and a famous dish in China, adds to what was previously an all degustation Shanghai, and this is his first venture in Australia they will be ecstatic. Just as unusual is the wine menu. The bargain choice is on Tuesday night which he’s undertaken with his wife, Jenny Lu. list. It is well informed, comprehensive and has when both degustation menus ($95 five courses, around 180 labels. 127 Pirie St, Adelaide. Lunch $139 eight courses – allow three hours) come with It’s impressive on several counts, decorated in a and dinner Monday-Saturday; phone (08) 8232 complimentary wine flights. 142 Tynte St, North restrained style that, on the ground floor at least, 4020; www.fromorient.com.au. Adelaide. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday; phone (08) feels more like a traditional Beijing tea house than a 8267 4636; www.themanserestaurant.com.au. glamorous restaurant. There are stylistic flourishes Citi Zen was always one of Adelaide’s best such as floor to ceiling birdcage lights and an Chinese restaurants, famed for its yum cha and Not far away, also in North Adelaide, former ornate antique bench table at the entrance, with Peking roast duck, but owner Sherman Hu found ultra-casual cafe The Store has re-emerged more antique furniture and decorative pots and it was too small for the larger functions he was as a slightly upmarket bistro, with lots of booth jars inside. Peng Li is also a fine photographer being asked to cater for. When the Brecknock seating indoors and outdoor veranda tables. and his work is displayed around the restaurant. Hotel across the road became available it was out French chef Fabien Streit focused on simple Slate grey walls, dark ceilings, bare wooden floors with the Irish and in with a lavish refurbishment but high quality bistro dishes such as duck leg and black, high-backed leather chairs add to the that has created the largest and most luxurious confit with braised puy lentils, radicchio salad, cool style, and although overall lighting is kept low, Chinese restaurant in the city. There are two or barramundi with saffron rouille, duck fat each table is well lit from low-hanging shades. With large main rooms, one more family friendly, the potatoes and green beans. Owner James Hillier 48 seats downstairs and 150 upstairs, including other aimed more at business types, and several also owns two fruit and veg shops, so we can three private sections, From Orient can handle small, very private dining rooms for more discrete expect a menu that puts vegetables front and big occasions as well as small, and its quiet, calm dining. There are lavish touches such as the centre. The Store also takes its wine offering very demeanour makes it ideal for the business lunch spectacular orange saucer light arrangement in seriously with sommelier Kennedy Simpson, trade it hopes to attract. the main room, a wall of six fresh fish tanks (for previously of East End Cellars, bringing not only eating) and another under floor fish tank (not a wealth of wine knowledge but a background That will be helped by the special lunch menu for eating). The downstairs wine tasting room as both a winemaker at Mountadam Winery and that offers, for example, home-made tofu spring doubles as a cellar for a limited stock of museum as a chef. 157 Melbourne St, North Adelaide. roll with pork dumplings as an entree, a choice of wines. The menu features an enormous listing Breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days; phone four main courses (such as salt and pepper lamb of Cantonese style dishes, with banquet menus (08) 8361 6999; www.thestore.com.au. brisket with sliced cabbage) with rice, followed by ranging from $40 to $95 per head encouraged dessert and coffee for a bargain $22. However the for larger groups. However, head chef Wing Left: City Zen interior. Right: The Store bistro interior. serious intent and style of the chef, brought from Ho Au’s considerable skills shine brightest in the “authentic” section which showcases fine40 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 dishes such as lobster with ginger and shallot, salt and pepper lobster, whole deboned crispy skin chicken or cubed Waygu beef with Perigord truffle. 401 King William St, Adelaide. Lunch and dinner seven days; phone (08) 8212 8383; www. citizenrestaurant.com.au. Major changes also at The Manse, the grand Victorian mansion that has been a steadfast home of fine dining over many years, where a new guard is now in place led by head chef Blair Williams and manager Gerrard Mcnamara. Williams was sous chef under former head chef Lachlan Colwill and he continues the fresh, contemporary style that characterises the menu, with exciting dishes such as Berkshire pork cheek braised in milk,

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNIt’s difficult to clear my mind of any preconceptions from the main dining room and gold/ochre carpets should be a success, although it may take a fewof Nobu restaurant as I head there for lunch, and deep bronze-coloured tiles gracing the floor. more months for the kitchen to gel and excel. It’ssome weeks after the internationally-famous chain The highlight is a striking light fitting made up of not doing that at present. Open for lunch Tuesdayopened at the Burswood Entertainment Complex hundreds of small glass bowls that radiate a pink to Sunday and dinner daily; phone (08) 9362 7551.in Perth. There has been so much written and glow just as, I’m sure, salmon roe does as it isread about Nobu world-wide - the standardised being freshly harvested. There is the mandatory After a long afternoon of tasting wines for a liquorPeruvian-influenced Japanese food, the celebrity large sushi bar area which isn’t operating the retail chain, I’m not in the mood for cooking aowners, the swish decor and the ridiculously day I’m here and small tables, individual chairs home meal, so we wander down to the local Fiveexpensive prices, that I’m finding it difficult to justify and banquette seating on the main floor. It’s all bar in Mount Lawley for a snack and a necessarya visit. Perhaps I should be lunching at a place spacious, very comfortable and I must say, totally cleansing beer. This new bar is now one of manywhere the owners are working 15 hours a day to impressive. Now to the food. in the area, it’s large, although relaxed with anscrape out a living with no capital behind them eclectic range of sofas, both modern and oldand little prospect of publicity, but then as Nobu A Bento Box ($45) isn’t a bad choice in the style and lots of poufs and small movable tablesPerth is the 24th of its type in the world, there must middle of the day as there’s a mix of light tastes that can be pulled up to suit. The polishedbe some magic formula that engenders success. and textures, it’s a lunch box with a difference. concrete floor is broken up by a few rugs andI endeavour to find it. You’ll find small recesses within the box containing walls display a range of black and white prints. a sashimi (salmon) salad - a little underwhelming, There is a mix of people here from Y Gen to baby The Burswood Complex is going through an chef’s choice sushi - pleasant but not quivering boomers enjoying the casual food and a fewextensive makeover when I arrive, but it’s past fresh, sauteed vegetables and rice in a spicy garlic drinks. Share plates are the go and we tuck in tothe Nobu receptionist and a comprehensive bar sauce - lively and good, tempura with sauce - spicy house-marinated octopus with rosemary, tomato,and lounge area and into the restaurant proper. but gluggy, the internationally celebrated black spring onion and capsicum ($16) and some whiteI had imagined shades of aqua or variations cod miso - delightfully sweet sticky and earthy, Italian anchovies, tomato, capers and olive oilof blues and greens, as Nobu is renowned for and a separate bowl of miso soup – simple and and accompanying slices of warm ciabatta toastits seafood, but there’s none of that. There is a refreshing. It’s a worthy introduction to the cuisine, ($15.50). Both dishes have a salty sea-going edgenautical theme, but it’s more Japanese water but could do with refining. Next, a couple of dishes and hit the spot. We follow with an open roast porkgarden, with bamboo-textured and coloured wall containing two pieces each of tempura scallop and sandwich with green cabbage slaw, apple andcoverings with dark metallic fish and slate-coloured cinnamon jam ($15) and New York style Reuben“reef” superimposed, vertical “rocky formations” prawn, which are delicate and crunchy but way sandwich with pastrami, sauerkraut, cheese andtransforming existing pillars, partitions of black- overpriced at $10 each or $5 per very small piece dressing on German rye and a side of dill picklestylised water grass separating teppanyaki areas of seafood. Then pork belly ($27) arrives in four tiny ($15.50). It’s a delight to see sandwiches on cubes sitting in a sticky caramel miso and adorned contemporary menus and these two are packed with some micro coriander and ginger salsa. The with flavour and good value. dish appears to have come from the chiller, it has impressive sweet piggy flavours but the miso A Five shortcoming is the wine list, which is sauce is set hard and glued to the plate, the meat adventurous, but a little on the pricey side for the is fatty and soft and misses the mark as it doesn’t type of bar it is. There is little below $40 a bottle have the crisp crackling that pork belly lovers or $9 a glass and the place cries out for a house covet. Desserts are not considered. The service is wine. Quality bulk wines are plentiful at silly prices acceptable and the drinks’ list sits predictably at just now and the savings can be passed on to the pointy end of pricing. Nobu Perth, a 120 seater, patrons. There are many who enjoy drinking white and red wine without the provenance and without the price, and this is where house wines come into their own. Five bar, notwithstanding, is a cool and funky acquisition to Mount Lawley. 560 Beaufort St. There are no bookings, walk-in only. Long-serving and fellow WineState contributor Mike Zekulich has been named the 2011 Icon of the Swan Valley by the Swan Valley and Regional Winemakers Association. His nomination received a unanimous vote of support. The award recognises Mike’s “more than 40 years of reporting” on the wines and winemakers of the region. He follows his father, Joe, who was a 2010 inductee. The only other father and son team to have been inducted was Jack and Dorham Mann. Mike’s award was presented at the 2011 Swan Valley Wine Show dinner, attended by 125 industry people. Above: Nobu restaurant interior. 41 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING Sydney has developed a “complex” mentality over the as Manfredi's signature dish - gnocchi gnudi If you are a regular at Glebe Point Diner you'll past few years as far as fine dining is concerned. The (spinach and ricotta gnocchi with burnt butter and recognise several of the same dishes you've come Ivy debuted first and in the first six months of 2011 parmesan) - are back for an encore. Other hard- to love at the Neutral Bay eatery and plenty of new Westfield CBD and the Opera House forecourt added to-ignore pasta dishes are agnolotti verdi (pasta ones, too. There's been a bit of a trend in several of two more restaurant “clusters” to the city's upscale filled with wild greens such as nettles and borage) Sydney’s upper crust cafes and restaurants of using dining scene. The latest mixed-use behemoth to and pappardelle con ragu di capretto e pecorino cheaper cuts of steak. The flatiron steak (a.k.a oyster open was The Star, the $860 million revamp of the (pappardelle with kid goat ragu, chilli and pecorino. blade) tenderised to a fork tender consistency and former Star City Casino, in mid-September. Twenty served with hand-cut chips and garlicky silverbeet new restaurants and bars opened their doors and Whole fish cooked on Balla's wood-fired grill are a here shows what a welcome shift it is. My dining one of the most eagerly anticipated of the bunch default choice for seafood lovers and Manfredi uses companion also spoke very highly of the fried was Balla, Stefano Manfredi's very plush take on a some of Sydney's finest providores to supply him with Spencer Gulf squid with aioli. Love the privacy, too, classic Osteria Milanese. the choicest cuts of meat from Florentine-cut T-bone provided by the wooden booths that keep other to the most tender duck breasts and lamb shoulder. diners from peering at you and eavesdropping on The venture marked the long-awaited return of one of Even during a heatwave, one of the best ways to your conversation. Neutral Bay Bar & Dining, 132 Sydney's and Australia's most acclaimed chefs to the begin a meal at Balla is with a traditional Ribollita, Military Rd, Neutral Bay; phone (02) 9953 5853. centre of the city. Manfredi still runs his regional jewel twice-cooked bread and vegetable soup.The wine list is exclusively Italian in concept, featuring imports from The decor of Concrete Blonde is as attention- of a restaurant, Manfredi at Bells, on the Central Coast, some of Italy's major wine regions, including Sicily for grabbing as its name. An open rotisserie anchors but at Balla he has embarked on “a true adventure of those who like a bit of suplhur in their vino. Balla's wine- the kitchen and the rest of the space semaphores Italian food, wine and design”. What more can I say but by-the-glass offerings come courtesy of the bank of casual sophistication from the polished mahogany - mission accomplished - with the help of head chef, 16 Enomatic argon pourers to enhance the enjoyment floor to the (what else?) concrete columns and dark Gabriele Taddeucci. Named after Giacomo Balla, the of such expensive bottlings as Barolo, Brunello di brown tables. The fiery torch outside the main door futurist poet and painter, the 160 seater restaurant Montalcino and Amarone. The wine list is presented makes the restaurant a cinch to find in crowded gleams with the studio-blown glass lights of Dante by iPad and divided into varietals for easy navigation, Bayswater Rd and Patrick Dang's food is also Marioni and Brian Hirst's hand-blown wine decanters so that a quick study of lesser-known wines is also guaranteed to light up your life. A veteran of Spargo's, continue the sparkling theme. Luigi Rosselli Architects a legacy of lunch or dinner at this stunning new in Melbourne, and Singapore's T8 restaurant, Dang's and Frost Design have created the sort of light-filled addition to the Sydney food scene. Balla, The Star, menu travels the world, too. Starters include French/ fantasy space that reveals that the employees of both 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont; phone (02) 9777 9000. Asian blends such as pressed duck terrine teamed companies are regular visitors to the Milan Furniture with persimmon, Chinese master stock and sesame Fair. The former Star City was notorious for “having its Orto Trading Co may have an Italian start to its name dressing. Mains follow the same multicultural route back to the harbour”, but the spectacular renovation but that's where the connection ends. Linguists will with standout offerings such as Clarence River jumbo has re-oriented the building to face the water and Balla already know that orto means “vegetable garden” in prawns with lemongrass marinade and Ranger offers spectacular harbour views. Italian, but the veggies served at this hugely popular Valley 7+ wagyu beef - hangar steak partnered Surry Hills bistro are cooked in a variety of international with aztec spices, papaya mojo and oxtail tamale. Manfredi claims that the inspiration for his new ways. The atmosphere is relaxed with square pieces Anyone after a major stomach filler should pony menu comes from the sort of food north Italian of brown paper covering the Nordic-style wooden up the $68 for 450g of grain-fed dry aged angus grandmothers were once famous for. Well, if his tables. Wood is also the material of choice for the rib-eye on the bone, grilled with sea salt and served nonna really did cook like this then she was a tragic serving platters. The servings are very generous for with cafe de paris butter, portobello mushrooms and loss to international gastronomy. The antipasti such a trendy place. Scotch egg with home-made spinach. Concrete Blonde, Shop 2, 33 Bayswater Rd, lineup would be a standout in Italy from the cecina pork sausage, pear and picalilli is a popular starter Potts Point; phone (02) 9380 8307. al forno (chickpea and pecorino pancake) to the and you don't have to possess a drop of Scottish blood crostini di funghi e lardo (ciabatta with mushrooms to go for the quail Maryland stuffed with haggis and Above: Stefano Manfredi’s Balla restaurant in The Star complex and cured pork). Traditional pasta dishes such served with parsnip puree. Mains tend to be just as and its antipasti dishes. hearty - spatchcock cooked in a salt crust or smoked42 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 kingfish Wellington with nettle and wild rice. Or, if you are dining with another meat-lover, the mains for two such as whole glazed duck with radicchio and hazelnuts are more than enough for three. Orto Trading Co, 38 Waterloo St, Surry Hills; phone 0431 212 453. Glebe Point Diner is one of my favourite restaurants for an early dinner, located as it is half way between my house and the office of one of my best friends. Chef Alex Kearns lures diners from the Inner West and Eastern suburbs for his deceptively simple, yet masterfully cooked, food. And now the north shore has its own outpost with the Kearns’ touch - Neutral Bay Bar & Dining. Unlike the original, though, a separate bar with its own seating and a cocktail menu are part of the mix north of the bridge.

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELBrisbane began the year under water with many the menu and North coast local and ex-Sunshine is a clever blend of Australian and European labelsvenues in and around the city inundated and coast restaurateur Tony Kelly is at the helm in the with a serious focus on Queensland wines and aincapacitated for months. But true to form and in kitchen, backed up by chef Adam Smith, whose strong by-the-glass selection. Shop 4, Sidon St,true Queensland style, most have bounced back resume includes recent stints at Urbane and The South Bank; phone (07) 3844 8838.bigger and brighter than ever. And what’s really Euro. Kelly’s Wine Bar venue, also waterfront,amazing is that the city’s latest precinct is right on was a popular haunt for local wine lovers. Sidon St, Another second venue, due to open aroundthe culprit itself – at South Bank, right on the river’s South Bank; phone: (07) 3013 0333. Christmas is Popolo, a Tuscan trattoria style and aedge overlooking the CBD and a precinct hard hit sister venue for Andrew Bataro of Libertine at Theby the January floods. These are not insignificant The revitalisation of the South Bank precinct has Barracks in Petrie Terrace. Thin crust pizza andvenues but second and third ventures for many been the talk of the town for much of 2011 with a house-made pasta will anchor the dining choices,operators proving that a desire to create fantastic slew of new venues; some second ventures for while more exotic game meats and seafood will featurewaterfront dining experiences outweighs the fear established operators and others first time affairs. as mains. Sidon St, South Bank; phone (not available).of another natural disaster. The jewel of South All have fantastic views and easy proximity to aBank is the Melbourne institution that enjoys a grassy verge that leads down to the water and a If oysters are your thing then head to The Cove,tranquil waterfront location at St Kilda, attracting secluded feel even though you are in the heart of next to The Jetty, where 15 – 20 different varieties area loyal following of locals and tourists who Brisbane. The Jetty, Jason Coat’s third venture and offered everyday. Roughly half are served chilledreturn faithfully to the two- level venue. And now sister to the Bulimba duo of the same name and his with cucumber and Pimm’s gel, wasabi leaf andThe Stokehouse has a second home in an equally first venture, Liquorish, opened in late November. pickled ginger emulsion, and the signature ‘bubbles’spectacular setting overlooking a wide breach of Liquorish sits along the busy strip of Oxford St and version Moet & Chandon gel, San Pellegrinothe Brisbane River. The Southbank Parklands The Jetty mark one holds a prime riverfront location emulsion and king salmon pearls. Champagne is alocation is also two levels – upstairs boasts a more at the end of the strip. The menu offers informal natural fit here and there’s also plenty of Marque’sformal, modern Australian menu and the bar and dining with approachable choices and simple but on offer – perfect for a summer’s afternoon by thegrill downstairs offers pizza, char-grilled meats delicious combinations. It lists Euro style bistro water. Sidon St, South Bank; phone (07) 3844 3993.and poultry and a wide range of share plates. Both dishes like herb crumbed schnitzel with capreselevels take full advantage of the view, by day the salad, grilled black angus skirt with anchovy butter Further up into the precinct closer to the Littleup close water action and a twinkling backdrop and pommes frites and baby beet salad with orange, Stanley St action is Siam Southbank, Thai-bornof lights from the CBD. cress and goat’s curd but it’s the foray into Asia that chef Timmy Kemp’s latest venture, located on the pop. Spice rubbed spatchcock in coconut curry and tranquil site of her eponymous previous restaurant. Designed by award-winning architects pickled cucumber is already a favourite as are the Overlooking a palm-fringed lawn, the menuArkhefield, the design is bold and sculpted into its ocean trout fish cakes and the prawn skewers with showcases authentic and very aromatic Thai foodlocale with progressive cantilevered roofs and the mango salad and ginger- lime dressing. albeit with modern presentation. Lunchtime specials include spice-rated curries, stir fry, rice and noodleopen-air, relaxed style of the great Queenslander. The food is light and bright but the cocktails are dishes as well as ‘Thai pies - massaman, yellow, redPrincipal Andrew Gutteridge describes the slamming with about 25 different drinks on offer. and green curries of beef and chicken encased inview as “postcard Brisbane”. Upstairs the menu Gerald and Boonie are the dynamic duo mixing up pastry and served with a salad. The main menufeatures local ingredients like Noosa red tomatoes a storm with the likes of the Semi royal, a blend of offers more variety and utilises all the powerful andin a pressed terrine with goat’s cheese sorbet and vodka and pear liqueur and the Bebbo, a Tanqueray fragrant ingredients associated with this cuisine –white anchovies, Mooloolaba spanner crab tossed gin-based number with lemon and orange juice kaffir lime leaves, Thai basil, tamarind, lemongrassthrough squid ink linguine with chilli and garlic. and Manuka honey. The wine and spirit list, put and galangal – but the difference here is the masteryPart of the Van Haandel Group, Melbourne-based together by Coat’s and general manager, chef and of chef Kemp – her deft touch to combine, extractchef Anthony Musarra will have style input on restaurateur, Paul McGivern (ex-Rapide and Manx) and layer flavours is second to none. 4B/15 Tribune St, South Bank; Phone (07) 3846 0322. Above: The Stokehouse exterior and bar. 43 Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVIN This year has seen many front-of-house managers lentil and pumpkin salad, a substantially sized potato on Faraday St, next door to the Carlton Wine Room. and chefs play the restaurant shuffle, opening, galette sliced like a cake or lamb and eggplant Baker D Chirico opened early October and is a closing and expanding their businesses and some balls with feta. They happily do outside catering bakery, pure and simple, with no cafe, no sandwiches changes and openings have been more interesting and the takeaway shop has wall-fridges filled with and no coffee machine. Chirico has that set-up at than others either due to the experience behind them casseroles, lasagnes, soups, stocks and dips and his other shop in St Kilda, but this is what could be or simply because they’ve opened in the right place at shelves groaning with chutneys and jams, biscuits termed an “old-school” bakery which is exactly what the right time. Inspired by a want to enhance his local and crackers, although don’t leave without trying a Chirico intended. He has had the former video shop community and work closer to his home and family, cake, the towering lemon meringue cupcake defies designed to resemble a bread basket with thin panels Alastair Dobbs - most recently general manager refusal. The set up at Sissi & Co is its great appeal of wood curving smoothly around the room, over the at Enoteca on Richmond’s Church St - opened Os and in a time when many people are watching their ceiling and forming shelves to hold the breads and Kitchen & Wine Bar, in Hampton, in mid-September. pennies, the quality of Sissi & Co allows a great pastries behind the large counter. The shop is what Designed by ACRD, the room is soft, elegant and dining experience without breaking the bank. 1290- he originally intended for St Kilda but the financial fitting of the area which was the goal of Dobbs and 1292 Malvern Rd, Malvern; phone (03) 9822 8268. necessary to create a cafe there was too great. his wife Marie who did want to follow a familiar trend around the city of polished concrete floors and a An institution in Melbourne’s CBD dining scene, Now, with a little more breathing space in his Il Solito Posto, has spread its wings to open a new wine business, the talented baker can give a much minimal fit out, but wanted to focus more on the bar in Carlton. With the unmistakably straightforward deserved focus to his skill with sourdough bread upmarket area of Brighton and create a space that name, The Carlton Wine Room, the new restaurant but there will be many of the sweets and pastries he suited the clientele. Os is a flexible lunch and dinner sits on the corner of Drummond and Faraday streets, has become just as well-known for, particularly his venue where you can indulge in a three-course meal, near Brunetti (www.broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/ nougat, biscuits and strawberry tarts. 178 Faraday St, or pop in for a plate of charcuterie and glass of wine. food-and-drink/directory/restaurant/doc) and has Carlton; phone (03) 9534 3777. It’s adaptable and that’s how the couple planned lifted the bar for quality dining even further in an it, being governed by their community and buying area that, for a long time, has been synonymous with Above: Sissi & Co deli section and cafe. all their fresh produce for the kitchen from local cliched, sub-standard Italian restaurants. Co-owner suppliers. Chef Rachel Ginty, who was sous chef at Jay Bessell, had been coveting the building for Cicciolina before becoming proprietor of St Kilda and four years before snapping up the space and has Windsor Delis, is behind the small but comprehensive joined forces with long-time friends and colleagues menu, which may include a salad of duck prosciutto, Michael Tenace and Connie Capello. All three work pecorino and mint; agnolotti of chicken & mushroom together at (www.broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/ with lentils and spinach or pork belly on cauliflower food-and-drink/directory/restaurant/il-solito-posto) puree with Waldorf salad and apple jus. 531 Hampton Il Solito Posto – Bessell as general manager, Tenace St, Hampton; phone (03) 9533 1922 . the owner and Capello in admin and accounts – and this opportunity seemed too good to pass on. Sissi & Co. is a great balance of cafe and caterer What’s been created is a very smart room on the that’s opened way down Malvern Rd, Malvern. ground level and the building is gradually going A smart cafe that’s pretty as a picture in its fit out, to open up over the three levels but for now the it serves as a home-away-from-home or a second cellar downstairs is a private dining room for up kitchen for locals and those who work in the area, to 12 people, with a handmade Tuscan rosewood nourishing them with good meals, beautiful cakes dining table as its centrepiece. Street level sees and good coffee in the large room that’s dressed mostly bar-height seating, a chef’s table and a in whites and cool timbers. The huge glass cabinet menu that includes share plates of food (that are houses most of the daily lunch menu, a mildly spiced everywhere now in Melbourne) but a refreshing approach to it by doing single serves of dishes44 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 or serves that are appropriate for sharing. This way you can try a lot of different tastes with a selection of single serves. The kitchen is headed by Matthew Silovic (who was most recently sous chef at Verge) and the food is being termed “contemporary European”, with a highly-technical approach. Hi-tech often refers to the machinery in the kitchen – a Pacojet, sous vide methods of cookery – which, when used correctly means interesting textures and combinations on the plate. Carlton are relishing the increase in smart businesses in the area and more of it we say. 172–174 Faraday St, Carlton; phone (03) 9347 2626. Staying in Carlton, it just keeps getting better with the opening of baker Daniel Chirico’s new shop

wine investment & collectingAruecptioonrts the RRP. Limited stocks of select Bordeaux also AUCTION DATES garnered strong support with 2005 Chateau deCRACKA WINES Lagarde Grand Millesime the star, partly due to a LANGTON’S WINE(DECEMBER 2011 REPORT) high rating from Huon Hooke. AUCTIONS & EXCHANGEAs the weather warmed up, so too did the action at Weekly Wine AuctionsCrackawines.com.au - with record sales in leading While the share of premium wines has certainly (held on Wednesdays)up to the end of the year. With a product range of grown in this channel, the vast majority of wines Sydney: January 11 - 18wines selling from $5 to $40 per bottle through the listed on Cracka Wine Auctions have sold around Melbourne: January 18 - 25auctions, it is clear that buyers continue to show $10 per bottle, with the RRP generally considerably Sydney: January 25 - February 1significant interest in purchasing both premium and higher. In recent months, for example, large volumes Melbourne: February 1 - 8entry-level wines from the Cracka sales. The best of wine from Fonty’s Pool, including Limited Release Sydney: February 8 - 15growth for Cracka in the warmer months was at the Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Lucia Blanc de Blancs have Melbourne: February 15 - 22premium end of its offerings, with wines such as all sold at $10.95, with RRP between $25 and $30. Sydney: February 22 - 29magnums of Wise Wine Margaret River Cabernet Melbourne: February 29 - March 7Sauvignon and the 2006 Blue Pyrenees Reserve Red wines, particularly shiraz, have continuedShiraz always attracting strong bidding. their strong form. This has included the likes of Stock entry cut-off is 10 days prior 2008 Swings & Roundabouts Shiraz, the last In the lead up to Christmas there was considerable stocks of the St Hallett Classic Shiraz, 2008 Final STERLING WINEinterest in a number of prestige products. Champagne Cut Montage Shiraz and the mouth-filling 2009 AUCTIONS & EXCHANGEsales were very strong with major house brands like Toro Loco Barossa Valley Shiraz. The real mover January 27 - February 8Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial and Veuve Clicquot though during the final months of the year was (consignment deadline: January 23)Yellow Label Non-Vintage attracting plenty of attention, a range of sauvignon blancs from Australia and March 2 - 14 (consignment deadline:with an average price close to $50. Penfolds Grange, New Zealand. The 2011 Margaret River Seaside, February 27)the staple of Australian wine auctions, also continued 2011 Marlborough Honeymoon Bay and theto trade well with a range of vintages going under the newly-released 2011 Fush n Chups Marlborough ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONShammer and sharp bidders managing to score some Sauvignon Blanc, all sold in large volumes, Monthly live online auctions - visitreal bargains with strong vintages selling under $350. spurred on by the warmer weather and Australia’s www.oddbins.com.au for dates continuing love affair with this variety. The superb 2004 Yalumba D Black Sparkling GRAYSONLINECabernet Shiraz has been another star of the pre- 2012 promises to be a strong year at Crackawines. Daily wine auctions (featuring a rangeChristmas season, regularly trading at prices below com.au with ever-increasing interest in online of red and white wines and regional$20 despite its recommended retail price (RRP) of retailing combined with further consolidation of and country-specific sales)$40. Another new addition to the Cracka offering, the wine market likely to see a greater number ofPeccavi wines from Margaret River performed consumers drawn to independent online offerings. CRACKA WINESvery well with keen bidders paying close to half From a vendor perspective, the company expects Live wine auctions every day at 1pm growth in the number of wineries and distributors on weekdays and 8pm on weekends looking to sell significant volumes of wines through Cracka Wine Auctions to continue, with pressure LIQUID ASSET FINE WINE in the local and export markets for premium wine AUCTIONS a significant driver. Furthermore, that push towards Fortnightly online auctions - from an increasingly large range of premium wines in Thursday 8pm toTuesday 8pm. unreserved auctions is sure to build buyer activity Register for notifications at www. and interest in the range across the board. liquidasset.co.nz/register Cracka Wines conduct live wine auctions every (All dates subject to change, day at 1pm on weekdays and 8pm on weekends. without notice) For more information, visit www.crackawines.com. au or email [email protected]. All quoted prices are per bottle with no buyer’s premium applicable. STERLING WINE AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (2011 REVIEW REPORT) The wine auction scene made an important transition in 2011. Gone are the fun old days of specialist auction houses run by charming, chatting auctioneers addressing live audiences and knocking down lots to the highest bidder. While live auctions do have a place, in 2012 the wine auction business is all e-marketing - with the quaint practices of the past not even memories for many of the younger clients. Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 45

wine investment & collecting “Delivery systems may change but the basics deliver real experience or total convenience.” Basket Press, this is the business model to follow.always strip down to the same nuts and bolts,” The Sterling auction experience of 2011 The quality gets better each year and the focus issays Sterling’s Lynton Barber. “While ‘fulfillment always on quality.”speed’ and tasty blogosphere morsels can’t be reinforced some well worn truisms and threwignored - product, price and place will always be up some rough diamonds which will likely be the As for trends to watch in 2012, Barber’s tip is tothe critical foundations.” glittering jewels of 2012. look for mid to high-end imports. The segmentation of the e-wine world is pretty well “Australia is no longer the fashionable exporter “Quality French, Italian and world wines are washingcomplete and the “auction” concept is continually of bulk wine to the wine world,” says Barber. up on our ‘fatal shores’ in volumes never imagined,”being blurred and sidelined. Massive wine dumping “France, Italy, Spain, Chile, South Africa and China says Barber. “The GFC and the rampant $A ismachines thrive on moving huge quantities of surplus are way ahead on the entry level market. The shifting the cream which never made it Down Under(often below-average quality) wine into the home of resource boom-driven $A is the last nail for that before - with champagne, barolo and châteauneufthe budget shopper. Nothing much has changed. coffin. Australia is still producing some of the best lovers among the biggest winners. In terms of ‘price premium wines in the world and our bright spots are watch’, in my opinion, Australian premium semillons Budget shoppers once went to the high street very bright. Luminaries like Giaconda’s Kinsbrunner and rieslings are undervalued and on the verge of andiscount liquor store for their BBQ and every night or Jeff and Amy Burch of Howards Park Marchand international awakening. Don’t be surprised to see thedinner wines. Now the convenience of online & Burch - are taking on the world with peerless top Hunter semillons and Clare/Eden rieslings pushoperation has taken a big bite from all retail activity. quality and originality. Diversified ‘family factory’ up in price and become harder to find.”Wine is no exception. Price and convenience are wine producers like Tyrrells, Brown Brothers andnot the beginning and the end. The role of the virtual de Bortoli are wowing us with the supreme quality Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange conductshop will remain a secondary stream with the main premium wines paid and underwritten by the low monthly online sales. For more information,channel streaming real wine to real people. budget tanker wines flowing from the same cellars. visit www.sterlingwine.com.au. While there is a place for viognier and nebbiolo - “The acquisitive collector and quality driven cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot, chardonnay, GRAYSONLINEwine experience are part of a world that relies on semillon, riesling and sauvignon blanc remain the (2011 OVERVIEW)aspiration, research and sharing,” says Barber. ‘might and smarts’ behind Australian wine.” The past 12 months for GraysOnline have been“Brand value combined with product over delivery, positive with some solid private cellars appearingare the pillars which push every luxury consumable Looking back on 2011, Barber sites Sterling’s at auction. Customers are realising the value ofinto the clouds. High school economics taught Wine of the Year as Penfolds Bin 707 - once their stock and looking to liquidise their assetsthe value of perfect knowledge - how the supply/ again.“Crazy demand and ever higher prices have and choosing Grays as the avenue to move theirdemand price dynamics depends on the consumer pushed Bin 707 into the limelight at the expense collections of wine.knowing two things: what’s the best product and of Penfolds Grange and other icons,” says Barber.how to find the best price. The internet has come “As for the ‘People’s Choice’ - the producer which Penfolds and d’Arenberg were the main playersclose to delivering perfect knowledge but it can’t can do no wrong is Rockford. So much more than in the aged wine category, with customers picking up some great bottles more than 15 years old. The Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!46 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... What we do Best! It’s

wine investment & collecting1995 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, a 2000 Shoppers were also reaching for ports and spirit, Petrus, $1151 for a 2005 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild,d`Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz and a ‘98 Wolf Blass with the well-aged Seppelts Para Liqueur Port from $1025 for an ’82 Chateau Haut-Brion, $979 for aBlack Label Cabernet Sauvignon were good buying 1930 to 1947 proving the most popular. Some 2006 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and $751 for a ’93for customers to drink straight away. unusual spirits did not go unnoticed either with an Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin. 1888-1998 Bundaberg Centenary - Vat 100 Rum Fortunately the market showed signs of recovery Buyers purchased some good quality reds for and a Rémy Martin Louis XIII Grand Champagne for the next Sydney auction closing on October 12.under $50, too. The 1995 Hardys Thomas Hardy Cognac achieving the highest prices. This sale comprised a very high percentage of freshCabernet Sauvignon, a 2004 Kilikanoon Oracle listings and included a couple of large importantShiraz and a 1999 Orlando St Hugo Cabernet For more information, visit www.graysonline.com. cellars. Participation was above average and theSauvignon all attracted strong interest around the All prices listed include buyer’s premium. number of successful bidders grew by 11 per cent.$50 mark, while the 1997 Tatachilla Foundation Price highlights included $69 for a ’98 Penfolds BinShiraz was a great buy at $36. LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS 407 Cabernet Sauvignon, $186 for a ’91 Rockford (OCTOBER 2011 MARKET REVIEW) Basket Press Shiraz, $143 for a 2009 Wendouree Australia’s love affair with French wine continued October was an unusual month for the market, Shiraz, $151 for a magnum of ’98 Yalumba Theas customers were offered a wide range, including a starting slow and finishing bullish. Langton’s first Signature Cabernet Shiraz and $402 for a 1961good amount of champagne. Healthy clearance rates auction for October closed on the 5th and opened Chateau La Tour De Mons, cru bourgeois superior.were recorded on Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, the month on a weak note. Supply was low and Supply for the next Melbourne auction (closingDom Pérignon Brut and Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut being hampered by an uncertain and nervous October 19) improved again with a couple of smallNV - although ‘96 Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs market, mirroring the lack of confidence in the but high quality collections. Demand and prices forChampagne was the stand-out buy. Full cases of Baron financial markets. As is often the case in difficult this sale were above recent averages producing aPhillippe de Rothschild Bordeaux, Merlot and Cabernet times, vendor expectations were above the market very pleasing overall result. Langton’s experiencedSauvignon all went well above expectations as well. resulting in poor clearance rates. very high interest in a whole range of product in this Along with the overall sale result, prices achieved auction, a good sign for the immediate future. The Investment wines remain strong with a good across the board were disappointing. This was partly signs are increasingly pointing towards a reasonablysupply of the premium Penfolds Grange still being due to the very poor clearance of Penfolds Grange. lively market if the offering is right. Some remarkabletraded as vendors emptied their cellars. The 1984 Grange is the single most important product for the highlights included $5751 for an ’82 Chateau LafiteHenschke Hill of Grace Shiraz attracted strong secondary market and this was the worst sales result (previous high $4026), $4888 for a 2005 Chateauinterest and achieved an amazing result at $466. in living memory. Majority participation was at the Petrus, $1088 for the ’82 Chateau Margaux, $743 lower end of expectation. On a positive note, the for a ’76 Penfolds Grange and $640 for a ’63 Mildara Magnums continue to have strong appeal with following results were good to outstanding; $1818 Peppermint Patty Cabernet. As always, the marketall stock achieving better than expected prices. A for an 1878 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port, $1352 for a will respond to the quality of the offering.magnum of 1998 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz achieved 2005 Chateau Latour, $1335 for the 2007 Chateau$283, while the 1997 Rockford Basket Press Shirazrecorded a great price of $359. One customer happilypaid over $300 for a 1998 Yarra Yering Dry Red. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] Annual 2012 W I N E S TAT E 47

wine investment & collectingThe last Sydney auction for October delivered a Overall, the Oddbins Good Grange Index remained Other highlights included good clearances of Degreat result with a 26 per cent lift on the calendar steady at 130pts as buyers bidding on the key Bortoli Noble One from 2002 and strong interestyear sale value average. More than half this Grange vintages remained well within the published in Grosset Rieslings, across the board. Buyers alsosale consisted of new listings, including a great price guides. A word of caution to sellers though, showed some confidence in 1998 WendoureeBordeaux cellar. Towards the end of October, from Oddbins’ auctioneer and valuer Graham blends and shiraz and, curiously, a lot of interestLangton’s started to see a lift in large collections Wright. “Buyers have gone a little quiet on poorly was shown in a big offering of Mildara Coonawarracoming through, perhaps a sign of the market presented Grange,” says Wright. “In fact, this can Cabernet from 1973. Charles Melton Nine Popes,needing cash in hand. Average sale value per bottle apply to many of the premium wines on offer and Penfolds Bin 489, 407 and 707 also cleared well.was 23 per cent above average. sadly, to most of the budget wines presented at Vintage Australian fortifieds, especially from HardysOverall October ended strongly setting a positive auction over the last few months.” and Chateau Reynella cleared well, but importedtone for the final quarter of 2011. In terms of the Top 10 Hammer Prices at the offerings were a little quiet at this auction, withFor top 20 prices for each Langtons auction visit: September sale - it was all about Penfolds Grange, the possible exception of the sale of a rarelywww.langtons.com.au/Magazine/TopResults.aspx headed by that most impressive of all Bin 95s, the seen jeroboam of 1985 Louis Roederer CristalAll prices above are per bottle, include buyer’s 1971 - which fetched $653. This was followed by Champagne Brut (in original timber case) for apremium and are in $AUS. a bottle of ’61 Penfolds Bin 95 (VVHS, cellar faded hammer price of $1251. This was the Top Hammer and scuffed label, weeping cork) which achieved Price paid for an imported wine at this sale - withODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS $551 and a bottle of ’71 Bin 95 (VHS, very minor two very special Bordeaux First Growths rounding(SEPTEMBER 2011 PREMIUM AUCTION REPORT) cellar stained label) which fetched $540. out the Top 3: a bottle of 1966 Chateau Margaux atAfter all the buying pressure on Bin 707 over the September’s auction also highlighted the divide $639 and a bottle of 1924 Chateau Latour at $621.last six to 12 months, Australian buyers returned between the premium and budget sections in As mentioned earlier, Oddbins’ co-offering ofto their long-term auction favourite at Oddbins the market, as sales in the top Australian wines budget priced wines (<$20 price guides) alsoSeptember Premium online sale – with Penfolds remained buoyant while the budget end appeared remained slow in September, but this section isGrange clearances skyrocketing. to slow down a notch. expected to see improvement with the onset ofThe large offering of Grange lots from the 1990s and Shiraz still appears to be the dominant variety warmer weather around the country.2000s all cleared above expectation at this auction. bidders are searching for, with very good clearances Heading the Budget Auction’s Top 10 List ofBoth original timber case six packs and individual for 1998 Coriole Lloyd, Fox Creek Reserve from Hammer Prices was some classic Australianbottles caught the attention of buyers and a now rarely the mid ’90s, Greenock Creek Seven Acre, 1997 fortifieds in the form of a couple of Lindemansseen, good condition 1971 vintage offering fetched Hardys Eileen Hardy, Penfolds Bins 128 and 28 and Reserve Tawny Ports ($25 each), a 1972 Stonyfella very admirable $653. While pricing for Grange Magill Estate. Seppelts St Peter’s Shiraz from 1998 Metala Langhorne Creek Vintage Port ($23) and aremained within the published guides, what has been also sold well. Pleasingly, buyers also returned to 1977 McWilliams Centenary Vintage Port ($22) -noticeable over the last few Oddbins’ sales is the Rockford Basket Press at Oddbins’ September sale, followed by an Adelaide Hill’s sparkler, a 2010 Birdsteady rise in hammer prices paid for the ’98 vintage, especially from the ’90s as well as the late 2000s in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir at $21.which is now approaching parity with the famed 1990. along with Wynns Michael from the ’90s. For further information, visit www.oddbins.com.au.Liquid Asset 208 x 91.pdf 1 19/11/11 12:53 PM48 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012

A wine store where youdecide the discount!Daily auctions, falling prices, buyingwine has never been so much fun!

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 1995 $70 1994 $100 2003 $200  1997 $150 1994 $100  1955 $3200  WINES 1996 $95 1995 $85 2004 $280 1998 $220 1995 $120  1956 $13000  1997 $75 1996 $130 2005 $250 1999 $130 1996 $120  1957 $11000 1998 $110 1997 $90 2000 $120 1997 $100 1958 $4800 1999 $90 1998 $125 2001 $140 1998 $150  1959 $2000 BASS PHILLIP 2000 $95 Cabernet Merlot 1999 $110 Hill of Grace 2002 $200  1999 $140  1960 $1400Premium Pinot Noir 2001 $80 1990 $95 2000 $110 1980 $250 2004 $145 2000 $120 1961 $1600  2002 $75 1991 $100 2001 $110  1981 $230 2005 $120 2001 $120 1962 $1600  1990 $80 2003 $80 1992 $80 2002 $140 1982 $220  2006 $140 2002 $90 1963 $1200  1991 $100 2004 $80 1993 $85 2004 $190 1983 $220  2007 $95 2003 $95 1964 $1000 1992 $120 2005 $85 1994 $90 2005 $120  1984 $210 2004 $90 1965 $500 1993 $100 2006 $100 1995 $95 2006 $120 1985 $250 2005 $90 1966 $600 1994 $120 2007 $90 1996 $100 2007 Not Released 1986 $340 2006 $65 1967 $700 1995 $95 1997 $90 2008 $140  1987 $210 2007 $75 1968 $550 1996 $115 1998 $95 1988 $310 2008 $85 1969 $5501997 $180 1999 $95 Meshach 1989 $240 1970 $4001998 $110 CLARENDON HILLS 2000 $85 1990 $110 1990 $460 MOUNT MARY 1971 $750 1999 $140 Astralis Shiraz 2001 $80 1991 $85 1991 $400 Quintet 1972 $400  1994 $230 2002 Not Released 1992 $80 1992 $350 1973 $400 2000 $110 2003 $75 1993 $75 1993 $300 Chardonnay 1990 $250 1974 $4002001 $180  1995 $200  2004 $70 1994 $90 1994 $340 Art Series 1991 $120 1975 $4002002 $145 1996 $300 1995 $85 1995 $340 1992 $110 1976 $600 1997 $250 ELDERTON 1996 $100 1996 $460  1990 $60 1993 $130 1977 $4002003 $110 Command Shiraz 1997 Not Released 1997 $320 1991 $60  1994 $120 1978 $4002004 $110  1998 $320 1990 $120 1998 $130 1998 $480  1992 $75 1995 $100 1979 $3802005 $80 1999 $260 1991 Not Released 1999 $85 1999 $380 1993 $65 1996 $160 1980 $3602007 $120  2000 $270 1992 $100  2000 $70 2001 $360 1994 $85 1997 $110 1981 $3902008 $80  2001 $290 1993 $65 2001 $110 2002 $440 1995 $100  1998 $160  1982 $370 2002 $330 1994 $95 2002 $95 2004 $380  1996 $65 1999 $120 1983 $4102009 $140 2003 $210 1995 $75 2003 $65 2005 $350 1997 $75  2000 $120  1984 $360 1996 $95 2004 $75 2006 $330 1998 $70 2001 $110  1985 $400 BINDI 2004 $350 1997 $80 2005 $70 1999 $75  2002 $130 1986 $550Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $300 1998 $90 GREENOCK CREEK 2000 $75 2003 $110  1987 $3501997 $80 2006 $250  1999 $60 2001 $80  2004 $110  1988 $3501998 $95 2000 $65  Roennfeldt Rd 2002 $75  2005 $110  1989 $3601999 Not Released 2001 $65  Shiraz 2003 $90  2006 $110  1990 $5802000 $150 CLONAKILLA 2002 $90 2004 $100 2007 $75 1991 $4802001 $120 Shiraz Viognier 2003 $70 1995 $370 2005 $75 2008 $95 1992 $3602002 $110 1990 $65 2004 $70  1996 $300 2006 $70 1993 $3502003 $85 1993 $65 2005 $65 1997 $190 Armagh Shiraz 2007 $85  1994 $380 2004 $140 1994 $85 2006 $65  1998 $350 1990 $220 1995 $3602005 $120 1995 $65 1999 $180 1991 $180 MOSS WOOD 1996 $5002006 $110 1996 $100 2000 $220 1992 $120 Cab Sauv 1997 $360 2007 $110 1997 $130 GIACONDA 2001 $240 1993 $110 1998 $5802008 $110 1998 $150 Chardonnay 2002 $320  1994 $130 1990 $130 1999 $4002009 $90 1999 $55 1990 $110  1995 $130 1991 $160 2000 $420 2000 $90 1991 $65  1996 $160 1992 $120 2001 $370 2001 $130 1992 $85 1993 $100 2002 $130  1993 $90BROKENWOOD 2003 $110 Bin 95 GrangeGraveyard Shiraz 2004 $120 1951 $450001990 $90 2005 $120 1952 $170001991 $100 1953 $14000  2006 $100 1954 $100001992 Not Released 2007 $1501993 $75 2008 $90 1994 $80 2009 $100 World’s best wine prices Do you want the real wine price story? FREE Auction Catalogues Do you want to check trends? and FREE Bidder Registration. Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange has the Phone Lynton for a chat world’s best Wine Auction sale price database. on 08 9388 9955 or 0418 949 837, Every bottle sold over the past ten years, or log on perfectly searchable and cross referenced. www.sterlingwine.com.auAnd it’s Free! Just go to the Web site. Sterling Wine Auctions, specialists since 1992, offering full Live Online E-trading to STERLING clients all over the world and Old Fashioned personal service. Wine Auctions & Exchange50 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2012