Winestate Magazine March April 2012

MARCH/APRIL 2012 WINESTATE VOL 35 ISSUE 2 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE BAROSSA ITALIAN & SPANISH CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA CHARDONNAY MARLBOROUGH (NZ) DC E wL LeAlleRrs THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO STARTING A CELLAR GAME DECISIONS Spanish passions of football and winePRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Conquest Chardonnay Complete 309 tasted CHARDONNAY’S AUSTRALIAN New Release DOMINATION 287tasted March/April 2012 Vol 35 Issue 2 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 UKP/EUR 7.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 plusChardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • Italian & Spanish • Marlborough (NZ)





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NO.247 MARCH/APRIL 2012Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] ‘DIZZY 201’Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] WINES ofNZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael Bates DISTINCTIONAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] CELEBRATINGArt Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] a CRICKETINGMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Stephen Dean E-mail: [email protected] LEGENDPrinting DAI Rubicon with THOMASWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] HARDY’SCONTRIBUTORS FINE TRADITIONNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins [email protected] Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Ph +61 411 191 043Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Reid, Sponsorship Consultant - [email protected], South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2012 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsMARCH/APRIL 2012FEATURES 40 French affair to remember Winestate’s fourth wine tour of France26 Better times ahead late last year was memorable – for A long-term strategy has been put the tastings and the friendships made in place to ensure New Zealand’s and rekindled. Editor and Publisher Marlborough region continues to Peter Simic wraps up his latest produce quality wines. French grand tour.28 Conquest complete 34 46 Game decisions It has taken just 30 years for Spanish wine lovers are just as vocal chardonnay to become the dominate about their red wines as they are white in Australia, writes Phil about their football teams, writes Reedman, and he predicts an even Andre Pretorius. They’re either Rioja or brighter and more exciting next Ribera del Duero drinkers and support decade for the world’s best known Barcelona or Real Madrid on the pitch. white grape variety.32 Mark makes his Marq R E G U L A R S Leading WA winemaker Mark Warren believes Australian winemakers have 10 Briefs focused on quality at the expense of 17 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper interest, so he has launched his own 18 European Report with Sally Easton range of alternative styles under the 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Marq label. 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel34 Cellar dwellers 40 TAST I N G S 50 Grapevine Follow the rules and wines can be 56 Wine Words stored with certainty, writes Joy WINE 58 Bookworms Walterfang. In the first of a three-part 59 How We Judge series, she examines the art of cellaring 60 Wine Investment & Collecting wines to achieve optimum results. 66 What’s it Worth? 141 Subscription Form 70 Central & Western Victoria 146 Aftertaste 74 Italian & Spanish 82 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley 90 Chardonnay & Blends 104 Marlborough, NZ 114 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases 119 New Releases and Top 40 Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 247 March/April 2012 Cover photograph © Paul Grecaud.

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46 th edition NEW DATES SUNDAY 25 WEDNESDAY 28 MARCH 2012 VERONANew date. Same passion. vinitaly.com Organized byTogether with

editorialA U T U M N I N A U S T R A L I A is usually the best time ofthe year as the leaves change colour and the smell of vintage isin the air. This year there is a sense of deja vu as at the time ofwriting this (in mid-summer) I see weather reports of more floodsin Queensland and northern New South Wales, and hot, dryconditions again in Western Australia, joined this year by SouthAustralia which, fortunately, may avoid the powdery mildewdisasters of last year. Strange how just a short time ago we were bemoaning thepreceding 10 years of drought. It does bring out the DorotheaMcKellar poem from My Country in 1908 where she describedAustralia as a land of “droughts and flooding rains”. Who saidAustralia doesn’t have vintage variation because we can alwaysget our grapes to ripen? In this issue we have an outstanding chardonnay tastingwith over 300 wines evaluated under stringent blind tastingconditions. This year we lashed out and included over a dozenof the finest premier and grand cru samples from France thatwe could source, some beautiful and others not so. Master of Wine, Phil Reedman, was on the panel andin an introductory article he dissects the tasting, comparing the Australian and New Zealand samplesagainst the French. It is pleasing to see some great changes being made and no doubt chardonnay willjump to the fore again soon! At its finest, it is too good a quality product not to do so. Italian and Spanish varietals seem to be making an impact beyond just the wine industry taking an interestin what their fellow winemakers and importers are producing. The cafe set seem to be embracing thesefood-friendly varietals, particularly sangiovese and tempranillo in the reds and arneis and albarino in thewhites. Macabeo and mencia may have a way to go yet! But in the interests of being at the forefont of allthings vinous we are delighted to present to you a tasting of 200 wines of Mediterranean origin, either asimports or locally grown products of old country origin. For our regional round-up, this time we delved into the wilds of central and western Victoria and the highsof South Australia’s Eden Valley and flats of the Barossa. Across the ‘Ditch’ our New Zealand Editor, MichaelCooper, explored the great wines of Marlborough with his panel. But there’s more. If that’s not enough our intrepid New Releases panel evaluated another 288 wines foryour pleasure. Overall lots to taste and lots to like!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher

briefsFARE TO REMEMBER D’ARENBERG SET TO CELEBRATEMELBOURNE’S Food and Wine Festival - March 2-21 - turns THIS year McLaren Vale’s20 this year. The landmark celebration sees a strong local and d’Arenberg turns 100. Theimported wine line-up headed by the Acqua Panna Global Wine Osborn family were wineExperience on March 10 and 11 with big names holding sessions, growers selling wine to theincluding Spanish maker Telmo Rodriguez, The Burghound Allen Emu Wine Company forMeadows, Burgundian maker Virginie Taupenot-Daniel and export to the UK before youngChampagne Jacquesson’s Jean-Herve Chiquet among others. d’Arenberg Osborn - d’ArryThe Perfect Match program teams chefs, winemakers, sommeliers succeeded his father Francisand writers to present their thoughts on food and wine matching. in the 1950s and went intoStand-out events are “Our Love of Veneto”, with Marilisa Allegrini wine production under theof Valpolicella and Melbourne’s Guy Grossi, and “Game Set and d’Arenberg name. Then, asMatch”, with pinotphile William Downie and Jerome Hoban of now, the d’Arenberg style was focused on McLaren Vale reds:Gamekeepers in Geelong. More details are available from the shiraz and cabernet sauvignon in particular. To celebrate theirMFWF website www.melbournefoodandwine.com. major milestone third and fourth generation winemakers d’Arry and son Chester will hold wine dinners in capital cities throughout theBACK TO THE year. A book The Story Behind The Stripe - a 100 Year History ofBEGINNING d’Arenberg will be launched and an interactive Facebook page is also planned. Titled 100 Years, 1000 stories, d’Arenberg fans willIT’S A MAJOR change be asked to share their favourite stories and experiences.of scenery for Victorianwinemaker Dan Buckle with his ON TENTERHOOKSmove from Mount Langi Ghiran,in the Grampians, to Domaine WINEMAKER Gilles Lapalus at Sutton Grange in Central VictoriaChandon, in the Yarra Valley. has been on tenterhooks for months following the decision lateBuckle took up the position of last year to put the Sutton Grange horse stud and winery up forsenior winemaker at Chandon sale. “The stud was and is for sale,” said Gilles “but the winery wasin February. advertised as well for the potential buyer of the whole property. No offer came up by the end date of the tender, so the winery is While acknowledged as a maker of excellent cool climate shiraz, few continuing, business as usual.”would realise that Buckle’s early career centred on the Yarra Valley As of late January, Gilles said the Sutton Grange vineyard waswith Coldstream Hills and sparkling producer Yarrabank at Yering looking good following a mostly mild summer and he was expectingStation. “It’s exciting to be returning to the Yarra Valley,” Buckle said a “great” upcoming 2012 vintage.“which is such a progressive and dynamic winemaking community.”10 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

briefsON THE ROAD AGAIN OLD BECOMES NEWSIX Hunter Valley winemakers - New Generation Hunter Valley - ANGOVE Family Winemakers,are hitting the road again in their “Caravan of Courage” touring a 125-year-old wine companythe length of Australia’s east coast with tastings and pop-up based in Renmark in thewine dinners during April and May. The “Caravan” (actually it’s Riverland, has opened aa bus) starts in Melbourne on April 20 and finishes in Noosa multi-million dollar cellar doorin time for the Noosa International Food and Wine Festival on in McLaren Vale.May 18-20. The six New Generation Hunter Valley winemakersare Rhys Eather (Meera Park), David Hook (David Hook Wine), The move follows theMike De Iuliis (De Iuliis Wines), Andrew Margan (Margan company’s purchase in 2008Wines), Nick Paterson (Mistletoe Wines) and Andrew Thomas of an historic vineyard in the(Thomas Wines). Tickets and information on the pop-up dinners Vale renamed The Medhyk(announced one week before the due date) are available on Vineyard, a name that referswww.newgenerationhuntervalley.com.au. to the Angove family’s Cornish roots. Medhyk is doctor in Cornish. The cellar door and function facility on Chalk Hill Rd makes great useREWARDING YOUNG TALENT of old, re-cycled winery materials. “The bench tops, tables and wood work in the new cellar door,” said fifth-generation winemaker RichardA FRESH, young group of Australian wine industry professionals Angove “have been crafted from stunning recycled jarrah from thehas been inducted into the 2012 Future Leaders Program.The family winery’s 100-year-old storage vats, that are no longer suitableprogram aims at developing and training a new generation of for premium wine production. It is great to re-use this amazing timberwine men and women to succeed and take the industry into the which has lasted the test of time and has so much historical significancefuture. This year’s intake includes two of the best known wine to us as Australian winemakers.” The new Angove McLaren Vale cellarnames in the country with Katherine Brown, of Brown Brothers, door opens daily and provides tastings as well as light meals.and Chris Tyrrell, of Tyrrell’s Vineyards, enrolled for the seriesof programs to be delivered starting in Canberra in May. “These PLUNKETT ON THE MOVE(future leaders) are young or mid-career leaders who we arehoping will get involved with important issues for the sector WELL known Strathbogie Ranges winemaker Sam Plunkett hasat a national, state and regional level,” explained Stephen left Plunkett Fowles following the purchase of the Plunkett familyStrachan, chief executive of the Winemakers’ Federation of equity in the company by its partner, the Fowles family. Plunkett,Australia, a sponsor of the Future Leaders program. “We long-time champion of the Strathbogies, said he wants to pursuewant them not just to learn, but also to engage, contribute other challenges, including studies for his Master of Wine. He sitsand debate, and to develop the range of skills that underpin his exams in June.strong leadership.” Plunkett Fowles chief executive Matt Fowles said winemaker Victor Nash will now lead the company’s winemaking team.THERE IS NO BETTER COST EFFECTIVE WINEPLATFORM IN BEIJING AND THE NORTHERNPART OF CHINA THAN TOPWINE CHINA!For further information and 4 - 6 JUNE, 2012space bookings, please contact: BeijingPeter JacksonWinestate PublishingTel.: +61 (08) 8357 9277Fax: +61 (08) 8357 9212Mob.: +61 (0457) 834 880E-mail: [email protected] March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsAGE NO BARRIER Isobel’s father, Derek, said he had taught Isobel that alcohol should be enjoyed but not drunk to excess. The young tour guide saysAt just nine, Isobel Pearse she plans to continue leading tours until one day she can followcan claim to be one of the in the footsteps of her parents and take over.world’s youngest vineyardand winery tour guides, if not Upper Reach, established 15 years ago, is one of the Swanthe youngest. It was a task Valley’s newest labels. Yet, in its short history, it has made athe grade four primary school significant contribution to the historic area winning numerousstudent enthusiastically awards, including most successful exhibitor at the 2010 Swanembraced last October at her Valley Wine Show.parent’s Swan Valley UpperReach winery. She was inspired by young Aboriginal guides met The label comes from the vineyard location - on the fertile soils ofon a Northern Territory family camping holiday. Her efforts have led Swan River’s upper reaches, opposite where Captain James Stirlingone visitor to say it topped previous experiences in winegrowing camped on his exploration journey of 1827 seeking a suitable site forcountries elsewhere. One recorded it the best tour they had ever a colony. He recorded in his diary: “On a high bank we pitched ourhad. Though far too young for legal drinking, once a fortnight on tent; the richness of the soil, the shrubs, the majesty of the surroundinga Sunday and watched closely by mother, Laura, Isobel shows trees, the abrupt banks of the river...the view of the blue mountains,visitors around, confident she knows more about vines and wine from which we were not far distant, made the scenery around this spotthan most adults. as beautiful as anything of this kind I had ever witnessed.” “We explain how we make wine and show them things we use to The origins of Upper Reach go back to a London book storedo it,” she said. Isobel takes groups of 10-15 on 30 minute tours, where Derek – from a WA wheat growing family at Wubin, 275kmexplaining as well, vineyard seasonal changes. “It’s nice - the north of Perth - met Laura, convincing her that wine was the waydifferent perspective a child’s fresh eyes give,” Laura Pearse said. to go after his experiences working in UK liquor stores. “Tasting showed that Australia was the place to be, for the wines consistently stood out in comparisons with those from elsewhere,” he told her. 5 STAR WINERY (JAMES HALLIDAY RATING 2011)Www.SHAWVINEYARDS.COM.AU CANBERRA WINE REGION, AUSTRALIA12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

briefsSECOND CELLAR DOOR CELLAR DOOR OPENSHUNTER winery Scarborough now has a second cellar door inthe Hunter Valley with Scarborough on Hermitage having joined MORNINGTON Peninsulathe original Gillards Rd tasting facility. “The new location means has a new cellar door atwe have the ability to offer a totally new tasting experience,” says Yabby Lake Vineyard. TheSally Scarborough. Scarborough on Hermitage is a bright and relaxed tasting facility andcontemporary space that incorporates great views, winery tours cafe is located in the northernand the chance to order a hamper, a bottle of wine or to simply part of the peninsula onwind down. The soon-to-open second floor will be exclusively for Tuerong Rd, Tuerong. Withloyalty card and wine club members. Scarborough on Hermitage is a focus on single vineyardat 972 Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin, and is open 10am-5pm Thursday wines, single estate espresso by Market Lane Coffee and ato Monday; phone (02) 4998 6538. www.scarboroughwine.com.au. relaxed lunch menu, the cellar door is open seven days a week. The menu focuses on simple, seasonal fare such as house- made game terrine, pies, tarts and local cheeses. An outdoor deck takes in views of the vineyard and beyond, while inside, the wine and food experience is complemented by a collection of artworks. Yabby Lake Vineyard was established by the Kirby family in 1998, and more than a decade later, the opening of a cellar door onsite is the realisation of the family’s long-held vision. The new facility is at 86-112 Tuerong Rd, Tuerong and is open seven days a week from 10am-5pm; phone (03) 5974 3729 or email [email protected] FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsSTAY NEAR FRESH TASTETHE ACTION TASTING Australia, held every two years in Adelaide and billed asTHERE will probably never be Australia’s “premier food and wine event”, has been scheduled fora better time for Australians to April 26-May 3. The largest food and wine festival in the Asia-Pacificvisit Europe – the dollar makes region, it showcases the best in food, wine, beer, the culinary arts,it as affordable as it has ever hospitality, travel and lifestyle in Adelaide and throughout Southbeen. And if you are staying in Australia. Among the culinary luminaries to attend are chefs MartinLondon, location is all important Bosley, Matt Moran, George Calombaris, Guy Grossi, Pete Evans,– no one wants to waste their Stephanie Alexander, Justin North and Miguel Maestre, as well astime commuting from distant locals Maggie Beer, Andre Ursini, Simon Bryant and Poh Ling Yeow.suburbs or spending a fortune There are over 60 events on the calendar, including the BankSA Feaston taxis. The Sofitel St James for the Senses in Elder Park on April 28-29, which offers a chance toHotel, part of a heritage-listed taste some of South Australia’s best wines and local produce alongformer bank building in the chic with celebrity lunches and dinners. For more information, programSt James quarter, has been details and ticket sales visit www.tasting-australia.com.au.beautifully refurbished and boasts its own spa. It is right in the centreof the action on Pall Mall – just a short walk from Trafalgar Square, LUXURY LAUNCHBuckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus and other London highlights.The hotel is also home to one of the hottest places to eat, the new CRAIGIE Knowe, one ofThe Balcon restaurant, a luxury brasserie at which chef Vincent Tasmania’s most historicMenager combines British and French traditions to superb effect vineyard properties, haswith dishes like shepherd’s pie with foie gras (which is gloriously been relaunched as a luxuryrich). The Balcon comprises several distinct areas, including the boutique lodge. Craigiebrasserie, the St James Bar, a custom-made charcuterie bar offering Knowe Vineyard and LuxuryBritish and French meats, a Champagne Balcony and tasting table Accommodation surroundsand private dining room seating 14. The eatery, which also boasts picturesque vines atan excellent wine list, is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Cranbrook on the East Coastwww.sofitelstjames.com. www.thebalconlondon.com. and is the latest addition to the Van Diemen Hotel Group boutique hotel collection that also TRESCOWTHICK includes Islington in Hobart and The Priory Country Lodge at IN COMMAND Bothwell. Craigie Knowe is being promoted as offering a Tasmanian country escape reminiscent of Provence or Tuscany and is a two- NEW Nepenthe winemaker Alex hour drive from Launceston. Built in 1842 and recently extensively Trescowthick has winemaking renovated, the luxurious homestead has three bedrooms to in his blood, having grown up accommodate a maximum of six guests, with the main bedroom in the Strathbogie Ranges, and living area, kitchen and dining areas downstairs and two Victoria, where his family has a additional bedrooms upstairs with en suite bathrooms. Highlights small vineyard and sells fruit to of the property include custom-made king-size Islington Angel Mitchelton. He’s something of a beds, fabrics designed by Jim Thompson, antique furnishings, free wunkerkind, having made wine broadband internet access, LCD flat-screen TVs and individuallyaround the globe despite being just 27. With a winemaking degree controlled heating in each bedroom. Gourmet food baskets arefrom Charles Sturt University, he made wines in Margaret River, the available on request and guests have the option of having their ownStrathbogie Ranges, Barossa Valley and Hunter Valley prior to joining host, chef and winemaker to cook, educate and entertain – or canAdelaide Hills-based Nepenthe as assistant to Andre Bondar in 2008. opt to be totally self sufficient. Craigie Knowe vineyard is known forTrescowthick has since worked vintages at Beaulieu Vineyards in the producing outstanding cabernet sauvignon (it’s one of the warmestNapa Valley, California, and with Stephane Tissot, in Arbois, in the spots in the state) as well as riesling and pinot noir, and is just aJura, France, and was appointed as winemaker in June following short drive from Swansea, the Freycinet Peninsula and the beachesBondar’s departure for Mitolo. With Nepenthe sourcing fruit from of the East Coast. Rates until March 31, 2012, are $350 plus GST110ha, it is one of the more challenging roles in the Adelaide Hills, but per night for two persons from Sunday to Thursday inclusive, andhe welcomes the opportunity. “I love a challenge,” he says. “Walking $450 plus GST per night for two persons on Friday and Saturday.in cold would have been intimidating but I’ve spent a lot of time in this A two-night minimum stay applies and there is a charge of $150winery and I know the fruit that I am working with.” Trescowthick also plus GST per night for each additional bedroom. Breakfast itemshas group winemaker Neil McGuigan, recently named international and basic provisions are included in the rate. For bookings phonewinemaker of the year in London, to use as a sounding post. (03) 6220 2123 or visit www.craigieknowe.com.au.14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

briefsOLIVERS MARK A REAL SPARKLER170 YEARS THE face of Australian sparkling wineIT WAS a true 170th birthday changed forever when Moet & Chandoncelebration at venerable decided to invest in Australia and launchedMcLaren Vale producer Olivers Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley someTaranga, which marked the 25 years ago. While Tasmanian wineries,occasion by inviting 170 people including Jansz, Clover Hill, House ofto enjoy 170 bottles of wine Arras, Freycinet and Stefan Lubiana all nowafter a 170-day countdown. produce classic traditional method sparklingThe Oliver family has spent 170 wines that in many cases challenge Franceuninterrupted years of family both in terms of quality and price, it wasgrape growing and winemaking, Domaine Chandon that led the way usingand three generations of cool-climate fruit. Just how far ahead of theirthe family, including current time Domaine Chandon were was underlinedwinemaker Corrina Wright when the winery launched its Chandon 1996(pictured left) and cellar door manager Brioni Oliver (pictured right) Prestige Cuvee – a sparkling wine with 15were on hand for a 14-dish feast prepared by Andre Ursini of Andre’s years of age that still has plenty of youthCucina and Polenta Bar in Adelaide. Guests, including leading wine and vitality. The new wine, which retails forwriters, were entertained with music by local folk duo The Yearlings and around $90, will be the oldest current releasespeeches from Corrina Wright, Don and Brioni Oliver, with a toast to the Australian sparkling wine when it reaches thefamily’s former generations. The event capped off a successful 2011 market this month – and it will be extremelyfor Olivers Taranga, which released their first McLaren Vale vermentino limited as only 200 cases were made.and are in the process of making their vineyards organically certified. A combination of 58 per cent chardonnay and 42 per cent pinotWinemaker Corrina Wright said the event was about celebrating the past noir, it is a wine of great complexity after being aged for 15 yearsand the pioneers but also about making a toast to the future. “We’re so on lees. It is very toasty, very powerful and extremely drinkablelucky to have held on to our patch of McLaren Vale for 170 years – and thanks to some clean, tingly fresh acid. “It was always known thatthankful that the first generation, William and Elizabeth Oliver chose this the wine had the intensity of flavour to age for a very long time,”very special part of South Australian winemaking territory,” she said. said chief winemaker Glenn Thompson at the official launch. “We think the end result has aroma, flavour, texture, character and aHARDY TAKES beautiful backbone. Our history of releasing late disgorged winesCHARGE dates back to 1988 and from 1995 the winemaking team has been blending a wine each year with the specific plan of ageing thatADELAIDE Hills winemaker wine for seven years or more on its yeast.”Geoff Hardy recentlycompleted the acquisition STEP OUT ONof the remaining 50 per cent CIDER TRAILshare of the McLaren Valewine brand, Pertaringa, from THE Yarra Valley has launchedthe Leask family. Pertaringa a new Cider and Ale Trailhas been owned and following the emergence ofoperated since 1980 by Geoff several micro-breweries andHardy and fellow viticulturist Ian Leask. “Over the last 30 years the cider distilleries in the region.Leask and Hardy families have developed a strong McLaren Vale Once visitors have had theirbrand in Pertaringa through a sustainable approach to viticulture fill of the many fine cellarand, in more recent times, through the adoption of bio-dynamic doors, they can now take infarming techniques, in turn, producing fine examples of McLaren an eco-friendly brewery, wineries producing ciders and an entireVale wines,” says Hardy. “It’s now time to start a new chapter in the brewery that was shipped in from New Zealand. “The emergencehistory of Pertaringa. The family and I are really excited by this new of breweries and distilleries has proved a different experienceopportunity.” Pertaringa will continue to operate from its current for tourists,” says Mark Challis, CEO of Yarra Ranges Regionalcellar door in McLaren Vale while Shane Harris, who also works Marketing. Producers involved in the production of the Cider andwith Hardy to produce the outstanding K1 and Hand Crafted by Ale Trail brochure include Coldstream Brewery, Buckley’s Brewery,Geoff Hardy wines, will continue as winemaker. Hardy’s daughter Hargreaves Hill Brewing, White Rabbit Brewery, Giverny Estate,Bec, currently sales and marketing manager at K1, will assume Napoleone and Co Cider and Kelly Brothers Cider. For more detailssales and marketing responsibilities for all three brands. see www.experienceyarravalley.com.au. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 15

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneNEIL McCALLUM RETIRES RUGBY FANS BUY BRANCOTT“SETTING and culture are an PERNOD RICARD NZ’s exclusive wineintegral part of our perception sponsorship of the Rugby World Cup, stagedand enjoyment”, believes in NZ late last year, proved the country’s cultureNeil McCallum. “Wine (and no longer hinges on rugby, racing and beer. “Iffood) must be seen as but you visited stadia around the country, you sawa part of how we live and if real diversity in the crowds,” says managingwe think that, say, buying a director Fabian Partigliani. “A lot of familiesbottle of wine rated 98/100 attended the games. Rugby appeals to a broadis sufficient for providing a public, not just traditional beer drinkers, andquality experience, the real wine is part of the mainstream culture.” Pernodpoint has been missed.” Ricard’s involvement was just part of its planMcCallum (in his late 60s) recently announced his retirement from to accelerate the growth of its wine exports.the wine industry and the tiny, high-flying Martinborough winery, “The first step was the brand change fromDry River. An Oxford PhD who (with his wife, Dawn) planted Montana to Brancott Estate, giving us a singletheir first vines in 1979, McCallum sold the business in 2003, but brand to take to the world,” says Partigliani.stayed on in a supervisory role. Dry River’s vineyards and winery The next step for the new brand is buildingare now owned by American magnate, Julian Robertson, who awareness. That rugby is well known in majoralso owns Te Awa winery in Hawke’s Bay. The first to produce overseas markets for NZ wine, such as the UKan outstanding pinot gris in NZ, McCallum also fashioned classy and Australia, attracted Pernod Ricard NZ. Which wine stylesrieslings, gewürztraminers, chardonnays, dessert wines and pinot benefited from the exposure? “Marlborough sauvignon blancnoirs under the Dry River label. was the star of the show,” says Partigliani. Around the world, Brancott Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was the key focusPIONEER CENTRAL OTAGO WINERY of tastings and in-store displays, backed up by the company’sIN NEW HANDS pinot noirs and pinot gris. A third step in the sales and awareness- building plan for Brancott Estate was the opening late last year of Brancott Estate Heritage Centre, on an elevated site on the south side of the Wairau Valley. The visitor centre offers wine tastings and sales, a 40-seat restaurant – and sweeping views of the company’s sauvignon blanc plantings in Marlborough. The fourth step in the master plan, for this year, involves a redesign of the Brancott Estate labels.MARK WELDON, a former Olympic swimmer, resigned recently as YEALANDS ON THE RISEhead of the New Zealand Stock Exchange (NZX). Now he’s a highprofile newcomer to the wine scene in Central Otago as co-owner YEALANDS ESTATE, one of NZ’s 10 largest producers, recently(with his wife, marketing consultant Sarah Eliott) of the winery absorbed medium-sized Ager Sectus to form the country’s sixth-formerly known as Olssens. John Olssen and his wife, Heather largest wine company, called Yealands Wine Group. YealandsMcPherson, planted their first vines in Felton Road in 1991 - the first now ranks as NZ’s second-largest privately-owned producer,of the hundreds which followed, at Bannockburn and throughout behind Villa Maria. The deal gave Ager Sectus (controlled bythe Cromwell Basin. Their first commercial wines flowed in 1997. Peter Cutfield, a former merchant banker), 25 per cent of YealandsThe Olssens’ top pinots – Slapjack Creek and Jackson Barry – rank Wine Group. Ager Sectus owned 360ha of vineyards in Hawke’samong the region’s finest. Weldon sees their quality as “... world Bay and Marlborough, and wineries in both regions. “We believeclass and the winemaker (American Jen Parr) is world class, too. that consolidation is the way of the future,” says Peter Yealands,What Sarah and I will be able to add is our business skills”. One founder of Yealands Estate. The combined company owns overof their first moves was to change the name of the winery from 1500ha of vineyards and a host of brands, including YealandsOlssens to Terra Sancta. Estate, Peter Yealands, Yealands Way, Full Circle, Baby Doll, Pete’s Shed, Violet, Crossroads, The Crossings, 3 Stones and Southbank Estate. Yealands’ recently appointed board will be chaired by Bryan Mogridge, formerly head of Corbans and Montana, and a past chairman of the Wine Institute.16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERREPUTATION INTACT DESPITE THE CRISISGOOD NEWS - New Zealand’s reputation billion. However, “there has been a sharp and exclusive brands, but the globalas a source of fine quality wines, worthy fall in financial returns since 2008, and economic crisis did not reduce demand:of high prices, has survived its recent the returns for wineries and growers are “The core issue was oversupply of, notoversupply crisis. That’s according to now often too low to retain capital or under demand for, NZ sauvignon blanca recently released Strategic Review, attract new funds”. at premium prices.”.conducted for NZ Winegrowers byconsulting firm Price Waterhouse Coopers. In 2010, 82 per cent of winemakers The outlook for NZ wine is positive, sayFollowing the bumper 2008 harvest voted to continue the wine levy (2.5c/ the consultants. Over the past 10 years,- nearly 40 per cent bigger than the litre of sales) that each year raises demand has grown at an average annualprevious record - a new trade emerged over $NZ5 million to fund the Wine rate of 15 per cent. A decade from now,in bulk wine, reducing the average export Institute and NZ Winegrowers. But not “sales could reach 320 million litres (upprice of New Zealand wine. However, all members are happy. The board of from 221 million litres in 2011), basedshipments of bottled wine have held their the Wine Institute has seven directors. on an expansion of existing vineyardprices while surging in volume. Wineries in the small and medium-sized areas by 10,000ha (currently 33,600 categories have two representatives ha) planted between 2013 and 2017, Take Australia. Since 2008, New each, while the large wineries have three split equally between Marlborough andZealand’s share of the $10-$15 price representatives. According to a group other areas.”segment in the off-trade has soared from of small winemakers (including several7.6 per cent to 15.1 per cent. In the over- on Waiheke Island), “there is no doubt NZ Winegrowers is a “very effective”$15 category, New Zealand’s share has that the policy directions taken by the lobby which also offers many servicesclimbed from 23.6 per cent to 28.4 per valued by its members, but “there iscent. The UK is a similar success story.NZ Winegrowers was formed in 2002 The consultants have given NZ’s winemakers,when the national body of winemakers, already renowned for “exceptional” wines, a newthe Wine Institute, joined forces with theNZ Grape Growers Council. However, the goal: “to build the finest wine industry in the world”.Wine Institute - itself established in 1975- still exists, “to ensure that the interest of board reflect the interests of the dominant room for improvement”. The consultantswinemakers are properly represented”. voting group. Is over-supply and rash recommend 10 new or extended activities, discounting a problem brought on by including a more “front foot” approach on Nearing the end of its first decade, Category One [small] members? No”. the issue of social responsibility, such aslast year NZ Winegrowers decided giving winemakers “practical tools to guideto “gauge where the sector is at now So what does the Strategic Review have consumers to moderation in drinking”.and where things are heading”. It to say? NZ Winegrowers has stressed thatsurveyed its members to see how they “this is not a review that is going to sit on NZ Winegrowers’ board structure ofviewed their national body (getting the shelf. The board has already moved to 12 directors and eight alternates is“a wide range of opinions from those implement the recommendations”. “cumbersome, slows decision makingwho were strongly supportive to those and dilutes leadership in a fast-changingwho were somewhat less so”), and First, due to its small scale and high cost world”. The consultants have urgedcommissioned an independent strategic of grape production, the NZ wine industry complete amalgamation of the Winereview of NZ wine. Since 2002, the has to command good prices. Its few Institute and Grape Growers Councilreview notes, the industry has changed large producers can operate with lower into NZ Winegrowers, and reducing“dramatically”. The country’s vineyard retail prices (such as $9 in Australia) but the size of the board to eight directors,area has expanded by 144 per cent; the vast majority cannot. In 2008, when possibly including independent directors.Marlborough now accounts for 75 per sauvignon blanc output leapt by 65 per The consultants have also given NZ’scent of production (up from 47 per cent a cent over 2007, NZ “swamped” its key winemakers, already renowned fordecade ago); exports have skyrocketed markets. A quick shift into bulk wine “exceptional” wines, a new goal: “to buildby 344 per cent and now exceed $NZ1 enabled producers to satisfy the demand the finest wine industry in the world”. from giant retailers for private labels March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWMAKING SENSE OF HISTORIC CONFUSIONFRENCH semantics are to the fore as we climat as “land with precisely defined – named parcels in these appellations aredelve into the fog-bound world of attempting limits, benefiting from specific geological “not officially written in the INAO documents,to differentiate between Burgundian “clos”, and climatic conditions” … so delimited but recognised according to custom and“climat”, “lieu-dit”, “cru” and “appellation”. geographical areas. A lieu-dit is defined tasting”, said Mathiaud. On the surface thisSome are easier; others require increasing as “a geographical place with boundaries” leaves those other 600 climats, not mademagnitudes of microscopy, combined, … so also a delimited geographic area. into premier and grand cru, subject to aperhaps, with a small gallic shrug for the Mmm. It appears that over time, climat name change to lieux-dits. Perhaps thereinevitable French paradoxes. and lieu-dit have been used pretty much is still some disentangling still to be done. interchangeably, which means an amount Appellations are relatively easy, being of confusion is being created as the Let’s stick with a Burgundian theme, butdelimited geographical areas codified region now attempts to extricate one from slip a little further south into Beaujolaisfrom the 1930s. These are our basic units the other. This is proving rather tricky, where the region has had its third in aof measurement for Burgundy, and rank especially as one climat can contain trio of super vintages, which look set tofrom basic Burgundy, up through village several lieux-dits, for example within the place the region back on the world stageBurgundy, then premier cru then grand cru. grand cru Clos de Vougeot. Equally, of desirable wine styles. Beaujolais is a“Cru” is given a rough translation of “growth”, and paradoxically, we are told, a climat distinct region of the broader Burgundy,as there is no direct equivalent. “Clos” is also may cover just part of one lieu-dit. Not all not only because of its more southerlyeasy, being a delimited geographical area climats are classed as premier cru. Climats (fractionally warmer) position, but alsobounded by physical walls. generally were better parcels, so these are because the red variety here is gamay the premier cru and grand cru appellations. rather than pinot noir, so it is difficult to It is “climat” and “lieu-dit” that are More than 600 climats were made into draw parallels with vintage conditionschallenging even to the Burgundians, premiers and grands crus. But there are further north. Supreme ripeness arrived inespecially as they progress their UNESCO 2009, giving wines that were immediatelyapplication for world heritage site status. attractive, a big concentration and tannic structure that was even somewhat atypicalPerhaps there is still some disentangling still to be done. for the region. The vintage has been said to be the greatest in the region for 50 years orThese terms have evolved since the more than 1200 climats in Burgundy, so more. Big colour, bright fruit, silky tanninsMiddle Ages, as monks recognised one many are named plots in some village, or and lively freshness to the wines broughtnamed vineyard parcel or plot or field as even regional, appellations. Champ de Beaujolais back with a bang. This wasproducing different tasting wine (from the Perdrix, for example, is the name of the followed by a more classic interpretationsame grape) from a neighbouring parcel. climat, (or lieu-dit?), of Domaine Jean- in 2010, reverting to greater elegance,In the Burgundian context, climat was Pierre Charton’s Bourgogne Pinot Noir. pure-fruit friendliness and acidity, still withbeing used to describe such parcels, so it a concentration to turn heads back.is not derived from climate, or weather (as Given that appellations, specificallya French dictionary will suggest). premier crus, can extend over a couple Then the spring of 2011 was one of the of hundred of metres of altitude, with sunniest and driest on record. Despite July Cecile Mathiaud, spokesperson at the fractionally differing aspects, gradient being wet, the crucial month of AugustBurgundy Wine Board explained “there and exposures, it is reasonable to deduce was dry, with occasional reviving rainis no official definition for a climat. They that different bits of an appellation perform showers, resulting in well-coloured, smallcome from history and from the evolution differently, and may therefore have grapes of good concentration, arriving atof vineyard parcels. The work of the monks parcellated names. So one appellation may wines somewhere between the freshnessmeant that parcels were divided between have several climats (or lieux-dits?) within it. of 2010 and the powerful ripeness ofdifferent qualities”. In more recent history, 2009. Julien Sunier, who makes smallthe field name of each lieu-dit has been The Burgundy Wine Board is moving to amounts of Fleurie, Regnie and Morgon,documented since the creation of the land suggest that the climat be used for premier was so impressed with 2011 that whereregistry by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1807, so and grand crus. These are the names found he had been “declassifying some Regniethese parcels have been legally recognised in the appellation declaration, certified by to (make) Beaujolais Villages to keep theplots of land for a couple of hundred years. INAO (the government body that controls best grapes for the cru, for 2011, I didn’t appellations). And the term lieux-dits be make any Villages.” The Burgundy Wine Board define a used for regional and village appellations18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYBREAKING NEW GROUND WITH OLD VARIETIESAFTER existing in obscurity for thousands varieties. The King Valley producers have The little known Sagrantino is a high qualityof years, many of the indigenous varieties promoted many of them, including the Italian red grape similar to Sangiovese.found in countries such as Spain and Italy white grape, Arneis. It is a white grape The small, thick skinned berries produce ahave not survived the hectic pace of the variety grown in Piemonte around Roero. full bodied red with strong colour, blackberrylast millennium. Phylloxera, oversupply, The loose bunch, thick skinned grapes, aromas and powerful tannins. Most of theabandonment of rural life, and the relentless produce wines with low acidity with typical plantings in Italy are from Montefalco inprogression of urbanisation, or simply Italian almond aromas. Umbria. Our Queensland Granite Belt ismarket pressures to plant foreign grape home to a good example made by Prestonvarieties over indigenous ones, are some Turning to red wines, Barbera is Italy’s Peak and shows great potential in Australia.of the causes. second most planted black grape variety, found principally around the towns of Asti We don’t have a wealth of Spanish migrants Fortuitously, some regions were slow and Alba in Piemonte. It is a versatile grape that have influenced our wine styles as muchto change from traditional viticulture and variety that can get the five-star treatment as the Italians have, however there is aboth countries have finally recognised the with new oak and low yields, or can be rise in interest in Spanish grape varieties.rich diversity of wines that these grapes made into a simple plum fruit-driven wine Tempranillo has grown in stature to thecan produce; given modern, sensitive, with characteristically higher than normal extent that we now have the “TempraNeo”winemaking techniques. Australia’s inherent acidity. In Australia, the old Montrose Estate group of producers promoting this centralsense of adventure has explored these (now part of Robert Oatley Vineyards) in and northern Spanish grape. It’s a versatilevarieties and brought the best of them Mudgee can claim the oldest plantings variety that can suit both cool and warmerback home. Take Coriole’s Mark Lloyd, for of Barbera, probably smuggled into the sites in Australia.example, with Fiano. Fiano is an ancientwhite grape mentioned in the writings of Australia’s inherent sense of adventure has explored thesePliny, and is found in Campania in southernItaly. The name may have derived from varieties and brought the best of them back home.Appiano, a type of apple, relating to theapple character the wine can display. country by legendary Italian winemaker Finally, Albariño has a short, stormyInitially it was cultivated entirely in Irpinia in Carlo Corino in his suitcase in the 1970s; history in Australia with the 2009 discoverythe Apennine Mountains by the dominant however Dromana Estate and Brown that the variety has been mixed up withlocal producer Mastroberardino, who claims Brothers were more successful pioneers Savagnin Blanc and a number of vineyardsto have saved the variety from extinction and produced a range of wines based on were mistakenly planted with this lessin 1945. Fiano produces apple, pear and Italian varieties such as Barbera, selecting desirable vine. Albariño is Spain’s toppineapple flavours with a certain creamy grapes from the King Valley in north-east quality dry white originating from the damptexture, think pinot gris but with more Victoria. Angullong (Orange) and Margan Rias Baixas region in north western Spain. Itaromatics. In Campania, the most important (Broke Fordwich) are two more recently survives the wet climate by being grown onwine region for Fiano is Avellino. Mark tasted good examples. well-ventilated, overhead pergola trellisingLloyd spotted Fiano’s potential at Vinitaly and having thicker skins that resist fungalin 2000. When he came back to Australia Dolcetto, a fruit driven, drink-early style of disease, which would make it eminentlyhe was amazed to find out that the local red wine, originating again from Piemonte, suitable for some of our steamier regionsvine improvement society had vine material has a great heritage story in Australia. Best’s such as the Hunter Valley.which had originally been imported into Nursery Block vineyard in Great Western,Australia in the 1970s. From these cuttings Victoria, is planted with 140-year-old vines Brand loyalty is a common theme acrosshe produced his first wine in 2005. Lloyd that were initially recorded as Malbeck (sic) all consumer purchases. We could saycomments on its production: “Fiano is low but subsequently identified as Dolcetto. that the wine sector has “varietal loyalty”yielding with small berries so we pick by The vineyard still produces a wine from when it comes to purchasing wine, we tendhand and whole bunch press to control the the original 1860s vines, supplemented by to stick to the same one or two grapes.phenolic content in the wine. It gives the other grapes planted a mere 40 years ago in But with approximately 137 differentwine a rich texture that doesn’t require oak”. 1971. Could the Nursery Block be the oldest grape varieties available in Australia, Dolcetto vines in the world? Some Australian and education at our finger tips, there is Our rich Italian migrant heritage has also styles have been made slightly ‘”frizzante” no excuse to try something different andprovided the impetus to explore obscure and are best served chilled. break new ground.20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGSTEPPING OUT IN A REVIVED TORONTOCELEBRITIES looking for a cheap laugh or trademark blue titanium and houses no slouch when it comes to being a styleaiming for a permanent spot in quotation the world’s largest collection of Henry magnet, either. Opened just under twobooks should be banned from making Moore sculptures. One hundred and years ago, the hotel is slap in the middlecomments about countries or cities. It ten new galleries were added to the of Toronto’s late-night action corridortook decades for Melbourne to live down first art gallery Gehry ever visited (his between King St West, Queen St WestAva Gardner’s flippant comment during grandmother lived across the road). The and Chinatown. Many people stay herethe filming of On The Beach that it was most impressive being the 200m-long just for the views of downtown Toronto,a great place to make a movie about the Galleria Italia which snakes around the the CN Tower and Lake Ontario from theend of the world. Toronto, too, suffered front of the building and almost “forces” huge roof-top terrace, anchored by afrom an out-of-date image for years after light into the building. Torontonians like heated infinity pool. The 24-hour diner-Peter Ustinov dubbed the city - New York to quip that the AOG is Gehry’s only style restaurant attracts party typesrun by the Swiss - even though it has long work in Canada if you don’t count the before and after a big night out - with andbeen one of the most dynamic places in sandcastles he made as a child. without champagne or a glass of locally-North America. grown wine from the Niagara Peninsula, Within a few minutes walk you’ll find Canada’s largest wine-growing region. Toronto’s chrome and glass skyline the most famous of Toronto’s majorhas sprouted a new crop of skyscrapers museums. Daniel Libeskind, another Celebs like Lady Gaga and Andreover the past few years. Yet the dominant stalwart of architectural tourism, designed Agassi prefer the more discreet charmbuilding remains the CN Tower, which the somewhat controversial addition to of the Soho Metropolitan, known as theheld the title of world’s tallest building the ROM, the Royal Ontario Museum, the Soho Met. Shoe-horned into a smartfor 34 years until it was surpassed by the largest museum in Canada. Completed apartment block close to the CN Tower,Burj Khalifa in Dubai. To compensate for in 2007, the crystal-like design looks as you won’t have to venture far afield forthe loss, the 116-storey tower opened the if a giant prism of glass has been welded smart bars, cafes and restaurants. TheThrill-seekers can stroll around the top of the building’s pod with no guard-railand just a 1.5m-wide transparent ledge under their feet.EdgeWalk last August. Billed as the first on to the side of the old museum, which rooms are decked out in warm beigeattraction of its kind in North America, walks an eccentric but highly successful and chocolate, and the bathrooms getthrill-seekers - and I don’t use that term path of combining natural history with the the thumbs-up from those who think thatlightly - can stroll around the top of the decorative arts. You can see the dinosaur a long soak is a necessary componentbuilding’s pod with no guard-rail and just skeletons from the outside, but you’ll have of a relaxing holiday. But if top-qualitya 1.5m-wide transparent ledge under to venture inside to eyeball an eclectic sushi or Canadian whiskies (sampletheir feet. There are safety harnesses collection that ranges from Chinese Alberta Springs for a real treat) and liveattached to an overhead rail, of course, imperial robes through arts and textiles jazz in a glam setting are more yourbut the 30 minute shuffle could feel from Africa, the Asia-Pacific and Europe, style, The Drake - quirky yet supremelymore like an eternity for anyone hit by a and a stuffed moose. stylish with only 19 rooms - is the placesudden attack of vertigo. And it wouldn’t to be seen. The hotel’s Corner Cafe is abe smart to have a shot of Canadian Club There’s nothing like an elderflower and haven of invert snobbery where many ofReserve whisky beforehand to steady Campari cocktail or a Moosehead lager Toronto’s models come to chow downyour nerves, either. after wearing out the shoe leather. And on that homeliest of treats - home-made the barman at the Toronto Thompson scones. Many of them can also be found Personally, I prefer staying closer to hotel is an absolute master when it on King St West, which resembles athe ground at the Art Gallery of Ontario. comes to mixing and pouring drinks. fashion catwalk on most weekends.Redesigned and extended in 2008 by Part of the Thompson boutique hotel line- A fitting development for a former garmentlocal boy-made-good, Frank Gehry, the up with outposts in New York, LA and district that experienced a long overdueexterior is clad in the star architect’s Chicago, the first “foreign” Thompson is22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

revival in the 1980s and ‘90s. It comes as Wine of the Yeara surprise to many visitors, but Canadahas pursued an even more expansive top 5 oUt ofmulti-cultural immigration policy than 1000Australia. Toronto’s web of minorityneighbourhoods feature cheek-by-jowl sparkling CategorY 2011restaurant enclaves from Little Italythrough Little India, Gay Village and not “Nice champagneone but three Chinatowns. The constant yeast characters on thethat binds them together is the uniformly toasty nose, some toastyhigh quality of the food. complexity on a palate with excellent structure St Lawrence Market started life 200 and good depth ofyears ago when Toronto was still little yeasty flavours withmore than a fur-trading town and it’s balanced acidity”still a major force in the city’s life withover 120 vendors and stalls. A grazer’s Winestate magazineheaven, it was voted one of the 25 bestmarkets in the world by Food & Wine Patrick of Coonawarramagazine. There might be little left of Riddoch Highway,Toronto’s historic core, but the man to Coonawarra SA 5263help you get the most out of strolling past Tel: (+61) 08 8737 3687Old City Hall and the colonial churches Fax: (+61) 08 8737 3689whose iron grip on the city’s lifestyle lead [email protected] the label “Toronto the Good”, is Bruce www.patrickofcoonawarra.comBell. One of the most entertaining tourguides I have encountered anywhere,I highly recommend making a booking(www.brucebelltours.ca). A bar crawl is a must, too. There’s plentyof British-style pubs from the Black BullTavern, which boasts the largest outdoorpatio in the city, to the Bow and Arrowwhere you’ll find 27 micro-ales. Forty brewsare on tap at C’est What, including thebar’s own hemp ale. At the other end of thespending scale is the Canoe Restaurant& Bar. Located on the 54th floor of the TDBank Tower, it’s not only one of the bestrestaurants in Canada, the brilliant viewsare as breathtaking as the food. But whatever you’re looking for - fromstudent watering holes like Squirly’sthrough “date” bars (try Sutra), funkydives (head to Sweaty Betty’s) and vodkabars that wouldn’t be out of place in StPetersburg (go to Pravda Vodka Bar) -Toronto delivers in spades. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 23

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON AND HIS AUSTRALIAN CONNECTION. PART ONEON DECEMBER 10, 1963, the liner “the world’s greatest expert” on wine, were what they were today”. SimonCanberra berthed in Fremantle with was invited to sample and comment on observed that “there were wine growerspassengers from England and others the wines. A report in the Sydney Morning both in Australia and Africa who madereturning home from a visit to Europe. Herald headed “Bulk shipment urged” good hand-made wines with intelligentIt was in the leisurely days when overseas told the story. Australia was producing care from suitable grapes, but there weretravel could easily be taken by sea as well “nice light red and white wines, but the other Empire wines which were machine-as by air, and giant liners plied the oceans. fact that these were shipped bottled made made from every kind of grape. They wereAmong Canberra’s passengers was an their cost double those of France, Spain neither better nor worse than similar wines86-year-old man, making his first visit to and Italy”. This, of course, meant that made elsewhere”.Australia and New Zealand. His wife of 63 they were not a commercial proposition.years had died a few months earlier. That “People would not pay a high price for In December, 1933, Simon accepted anman was writer, wine expert, gastronome bottled Australian wine, even if European invitation to Australia House in London, toand bon viveur, Andre L Simon. wines were taxed out of existence,” Simon sample Australian wines with wine trade argued. “As a beverage, wine was not representatives. For the delectation of the The main reason for his visit was to to be sipped in thimblefuls, but taken in guests, a “full range of Australian wines,gather information for a book but he tumblerfuls so the price must be low,” he from sweet ports to sparkling hocks, wasalso wanted to meet as many members sagely continued. “The only possibility of available”. It was hoped that the timing ofas possible of the Wine and Food the tasting, which was described as “the first of its kind”, would have a beneficialAustralia’s brightest chance was in sweet wines, effect on the Australian wine trade, beingof high alcoholic strength, for which there was a close to the Christmas season. Again,growing demand among people who would not pay Simon’s assessment of the wines washigh prices for spirits. apparently not recorded.Society, of which he was the founder commercial success was bulk shipment. It’s revealing to look at Simon’s books,and president back in London. Australia’s brightest chance was in especially those published before 1950, sweet wines, of high alcoholic strength, to see what, if anything, he had to say While Simon had made many visits for which there was a growing demand about Australian and New Zealandoverseas, especially to the US, among people who would not pay high wines. One of his highly-praised early prices for spirits.” Unfortunately, the “nice books was Vintagewise, first published South America and Africa, he had never light wines” he tasted are not identified. in 1945 and devoted mainly to the winesbeen to Australia or New Zealand. Why of Europe. There was only a page anddid he take so long to come here? An Six years later, in October 1932, the half a on “Some other wines”. AustraliaAustralian newspaper had announced Canberra Times, referring to him as “Sir” did not rate a mention, but was brieflyin August, 1953, that Simon “intended Andre Simon, reported on a lecture he noted, bracketed with South Africa, in thevisiting Australia for the wine harvest next gave on Empire wines at the Wine Trade chapter on sherry, with the Empire sherriesMarch”, but that trip did not eventuate. Club in London. By now Simon was being regarded as “new and dangerousHe had, of course, drunk many Australian predicting “a steady demand for Empire competition” to the real thing. In thewines and had been writing about them wines”, which had “unquestionably come following year Simon published A winefor some years. His early judgements to stay”. But, he claimed, consumption primer: a text-book for beginners, which, inwere not favourable. was not likely “to extend beyond a large less than a page, summarised Australia’s number of uneducated wine drinkers” who major winegrowing regions – the Hunter One such example was of a dinner of would value the wine for its low price and River district, Great Western and Lilydale,the Australian Press Association, held in high alcoholic strength, “so long as the the irrigation areas, Rutherglen andLondon in November,1926, and hosted bulk of Empire wines sold in this country Watervale, among them. Neither bookby Leo Buring, then governing director touches on New Zealand. This dismissalof Lindeman’s. Simon, recognised as of Australian and New Zealand wines was common until the late 1950s.24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Champion Pinot Noir of the year awarded to Lowburn Ferry Coming from one of the smallest but brightest stars in the Central Otago wine region, Lowburn Ferry Home Block Pinot Noir 2010 was the top wine from more than 1500 New Zealand & Australian Pinot Noirs tasted and judged by Winestate in 2011. CENTRAL OTAGOTaste at Vinitaly March 25-28, 2012 - Winestate Display, Pavilion 11, stand D3Distributed in Australia by:Young & Rashleigh (NSW) www.youngandrashleigh.com,Smashing Bottles (QLD) www.smashingbottles.com.au,Empire Liquor (SA) www.empireliquor.com.auUK: Black Dog Wine Agency blackdogwineagency.co.ukHong Kong/China: Definitive Trading NZ [email protected] other enquiries: [email protected]

BTAIHEMTETAESEDRThe major playersin New Zealand’sMarlborough wineregion are investing ina long-term strategy.MICHAEL COOPERPRIME MINISTER John Key last Many Marlborough growers enjoyed an increased income in 2011 due to the bumper size of the crop andyear opened Brancott Estate Heritage the opportunity to supply the bulk wine market.Centre on an elevated site with strikingviews over Brancott Vineyard’s historic 194,639 tonnes, set in 2008. More than 90 as $NZ100,000/ha. A 30ha vineyard in thesauvignon blanc plantings. The per cent of the country’s sauvignon blanc Awatere Valley was sold late last year forMarlborough region attracts 1.5 million and over half of its pinot noir flowed from just over $NZ2 million. Three years earlier itvisitors annually. The impressive new the region. But with Marlborough sauvignon had a rateable value of $NZ5 million.building – which houses wine-tasting blanc commonly discounted to $NZ6.99,facilities, a cellar door and restaurant several grape-growing businesses For many growers, salvation has come from– will be a major drawcard for tourists. collapsing and some long-established a relatively new direction – the industry’s leap wine producers struggling to survive, times into bulk wine production. About 30 per cent In another sign of confidence in are tough. John Hoare, viticulture specialist of all New Zealand wine is now exportedMarlborough’s long-term wine future, for the Marlborough branch of real estate in bulk containers, rather than bottles. BulkTreasury Wine Estates - Foster’s wine agent Bayleys, has reported that prices sales have played a big role since 2008arm – boosted its stake in one of the for established vineyards have plummeted in draining excess stocks of Marlboroughregion’s largest contract wineries, Rapaura since 2007 from $NZ250,000/ha to as low sauvignon blanc. And they are here to stay,Vintners, from one-third to 50 per cent. It according to Fabian Partigliani, managingnow shares ownership with Babich Winesof a facility with a fermentation and storagecapacity of 11 million litres, and the abilityto process 13,500 tonnes of grapes a yearand package over 500,000 cases of wine.Marlborough bestrides the New Zealandwine industry, with close to 20,000ha ofbearing vines in 2012 – 60 per cent of thenational total. Over 75 per cent of the vinesare sauvignon blanc, followed by pinot noir(10 per cent), chardonnay (5 per cent), pinotgris (4 per cent) and riesling (2 per cent). In 2011, Marlborough produced 75per cent of the national harvest, with anavalanche of 244,893 tonnes of grapes -exceeding by far the previous record of26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

director of Pernod Ricard NZ, who notes Having carved out a worldwide reputation the basis that the different sub-regionsthat the UK supermarket giant, Tesco’s, sells for sauvignon blanc, many of Marlborough’s have different stories to tell, and thus aover half its wine under its own brands. With wine producers are now keen to achieve better chance of getting more than onemany wine consumers around the world the same for pinot noir. The region’s Marlborough sauvignon blanc on a wine list.taking steps down the price ladder, bulk stream of low-priced pinot noir holds back The counter argument is that if Marlboroughwine exports, according to NZ Winegrowers, recognition of the outstanding quality of emphasises its sub-regions, it could divert“are now a widely adopted response by New its top reds – but such labels as Dog Point resources and recognition away from theZealand producers to changes in the global Vineyard, Fromm Clayvin Vineyard, TerraVin key brand – Marlborough. Through it all,marketplace”. Many Marlborough growers and Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough rank the key players are still making money,enjoyed an increased income in 2011 due among the country’s greatest. With pinot according to last year’s Rich List in Nationalto the bumper size of the crop and the gris, some winemakers worry about the lack Business Review. The list suggested thatopportunity to supply the bulk wine market. of a regional style, which may be creating Jim and Rosemari Delegat (of Delegat’sA survey of 18 vineyards found that growers confusion among consumers. High profile and Oyster Bay), the Fistonich family (of Villasupplying the bulk market earned just as much winemaker Matt Thomson would like to see Maria) and the Giesen family, are all worthlast year as those who were paid more for the wines made in “a drier style, not bone over $NZ100 million.quality grapes, but had their yields capped. dry. It’s not medium, it’s not sweet and it’s not oaky, and it’s not more than 14 per Above: The designers of the Brancott Estate Heritage Now is the time to consolidate, says Stuart cent alcohol”. Centre set out to ‘frame the vista, restore the naturalSmith, co-owner of the Fairhall Downs line of the ridge and create a spectacular vantagewinery and chair of NZ Winegrowers. “We Another hot topic is whether Marlborough point over the Brancott Vineyard.’have enough production. What we need is should define sub-regional boundaries.to grow value, not volume.” Some wine marketers argue in favour, on MARLBOROUGH TASTING STARTS PAGE 104. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 27

Conquest Complete IT TOOK JUST 30 YEARS FOR CHARDONNAY TO BECOME THE DOMINATE WHITE IN AUSTRALIA PHIL REEDMAN MWI T ’ S A R G U A B L E T H A T until the Cañocazo, Chenin Blanc and Crouchen. and others were cork tainted. Chablis Chardonnay was gathering steam and producers, most notably Laroche, switchedlate 1960s when Robert Mondavi and a within 10 years it was widely planted in all much of their production to screw capfew fellow Californian winemakers began states and helping to drive the fledgling almost a decade ago but the generallyto label their wines by their varietal names export boom. Today there are around smaller scale producers of the Cote d’Orthat few people outside of Burgundy had 28,000ha of chardonnay planted across have been slower to move away from cork.heard the word chardonnay. Australia, making it by a factor of four the largest white variety and the second most So what is the state of chardonnay play in Today it is perhaps the best known planted variety behind shiraz. the here and now? Australian winemakers,white grape variety in the world and one it has to be acknowledged, have madeof the most widely planted. Wine drinkers New Zealand’s history with chardonnay is huge advances in chardonnay style andfrom the most casual to the most intense similar to Australia’s with the world’s finest quality in recent years, particularly at therecognise, respect and in some cases white variety languishing in obscurity for top end of the price ladder. Can, I wonder,revere this word. Not without its detractors 60 years before John Hancock, then at this trend be followed back to the earlythough, chardonnay has been the butt Delegats, made a barrel fermented wine 2000s and the Penfolds Reserve Bin Aof the “ABC” (anything but chardonnay) in 1982. Chardonnay is now widely grown Chardonnays? Wines with more spine andreflex, its very popularity bringing it scorn. throughout New Zealand, though a distant minerality than was common at the time,Perhaps it would have been better if second place among white varieties to wines with far more subtle and integratedBridget Jones and our own Cath and sauvignon blanc and third overall behind oak and the finer style of malolacticKym had been riesling drinkers. None pinot noir. Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay, characters that were more common inthe less, winemakers persist in planting Martinborough and Kumeu put stakes in New Zealand’s finest chardonnays of thechardonnay, be it in Chile, Argentina, the ground early on for their chardonnays, era. Or were New Zealand winemakersSouth Africa and even in England to feed while latecomer Central Otago is making the inspiration and motivation with theirthe burgeoning sparkling wine business. up for lost time. chardonnays cheekily winning trophiesWhere wine is made, almost invariably, the for a variety other than sauvignon blanc?white Burgundian has invaded and settled. Burgundy, home of the great, the goodBut has in conquered? and the benchmark retains its cache, This tasting revealed that Australia’s although that reputation is dented among chardonnay producers across a large A brief history of chardonnay as a many of its more serious amateurs. number of regions are making reallymainstream variety in Australia, and brief it Premature oxidation is a hot topic among exciting wines; seamless wines, winesreally is, takes us back to the early 1980s, a the cognoscenti and journalists, so much so with harmoniously integrated oak,mere 30-odd years. Yes, chardonnay was that at last, after several years of consumer freshness, minerality and finesse. Margaretidentified in Mudgee in the 1960s and in and trade recognised problems, a group River is clearly making a strong bid tothe early 1970s. Tyrrell’s produced what of producers has finally acknowledged the claim the flag as Australia’s premieris generally considered to be Australia’s issue and is beginning to deal with it both chardonnay region but the Adelaide Hillsfirst commercial chardonnay. But Antcliff’s at a production level and a closure level. and Tasmania both made impressiveMajor Wine Grape Varieties of Australia Several of the burgundies tasted showed showings with a number of superb winesfrom 1979 doesn’t mention chardonnay, distinct signs of premature oxidation and some outstanding value for money.the white varieties listed under “C” are:28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

CHARDONNAYSTYLES HAVECOME SUCHA LONG WAYIN THE LASTDECADETHAT THERESHOULD BE NOSHORTAGE OFEXCITEMENT INTHE NEXT.



The Yarra, poorly represented in the tasting, producers including The Millton Vineyard which burgundy built its reputation andis in my recent experience making some (not in this tasting) and Villa Maria showing which are widely considered the sine quacutting-edge wine, including a personal the region’s potential. non, what of them? There were stunningfavourite, Salo. While Western Australia’s wines, but far too many disasters also; corkPemberton and Tumbarumba in the New And what of burgundy; the benchmark, taint and premature oxidation writing-offSouth Wales high country are well known the star followed by those who aspire to wines which should still be in their infancy:sources of great chardonnay, the surprise produce great chardonnay? It is fair to it simply isn’t good enough. The taxing 2008package for me was the Granite Belt conclude that at entry level, which let’s vintage threw in some wonderful surpriseswhich is evidently capable of producing face it means approximately $30 a bottle, with the mealy, mouthfilling and tightlychardonnay of significant quality. burgundy is not good value. Petit chablis, structured Chassagne-Montrachet from if ever there was an example of legitimised Domaine Ramonet being both a standout Madeleine Stenwreth MW, this year’s “passing-off” surely this is it, is ludicrously and, at the risk of sounding absurd, aInternational Judge at the Adelaide Wine poor value when for the same or less one bargain at $115 a bottle. Stock up on this,Show offered some revealing comments can buy genuinely exciting, characterful, its acidity and structure will ensure it ageson Australian chardonnay in her address dare I even say it “terroir wines” from any well for another decade.at the Wine Press Club luncheon recently. of the regions mentioned above. Mid-rangeShe was particularly impressed by “some of burgundies, the appellations outside of On this showing chardonnay will keep usthe cool climate chardonnays of restrained, the Cote d’Or such as Macon offer much in its thrall for years to come. While no oneflinty, mineral tightness with an excellent better value than the entry level wines. outside of Burgundy has eclipsed the starfruit core, structure and a balanced You are likely to find consistency, regional that we are all chasing, such is the passion‘wild funkiness’ which creates a hugely character and screw caps here if not the of the winemakers that styles and qualityinteresting personality in the glass”. ultimate glory of the top wines from the Cote will continue to move forward. ChardonnayStenwreth did counsel that “tropical d’Or itself. That said, you’re paying only a styles have come such a long way in the lastfruit character can also be beautiful in quarter of the price. decade that there should be no shortage ofchardonnay” and that producers should excitement in the next as our vines maturebe wary of forcing warm climate fruit into a The 2009 vintage in the Cote d’Or, that and we learn more about our vineyards andcool climate mould. The pendulum of wine 50km-long limestone hillside immediately how to work with the fruit. As consumers westyles does tend to swing from one extreme to the south of Dijon, looks to be a vintage can take delight in the fact that so many ofto the other, potentially confusing wine of real class, one to buy and drink over the top-rated wines can be bought for lessdrinkers, so while it is encouraging to have the next half a dozen years. The best than $50 a bottle, many for a great dealStenwreth’s endorsement, her cautions wines, including the Olivier Leflaive Puligny less; there is real value to be had in theshould also be heeded. Montrachet and the same producer’s chardonnay aisle. As producers, though, Meursault, encapsulate all that I look for we should be wondering how on earth we New Zealand’s usual suspects of Hawke’s in fine burgundy: minerality, layers of can persuade consumers to pay the realBay and Marlborough are living up to their flavour, deftly handled oak and a vibrant price for wines which are unquestionablyreputations as top producing areas, though acid structure. The excellent quality of among the best that Australia and Newit is good to see that Gisborne Chardonnay, these village wines bodes well for the 2009 Zealand produce.when handled with respect and a focus on premier and grand cru wines which willquality, is also capable of making thrilling surely be worth waiting for. CHARDONNAY TASTING STARTS PAGE 90.wine. For too long regarded as a poorcousin, Gisborne is surely one to watch with Of the top end of burgundy; the Premier and Grand Crus, the wines, in truth, on March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 31

MARK MAKES HIS MARQWA WINEMAKER MARK WARREN IS DEVELOPING ALTERNATIVE STYLES MIKE ZEKULICHI THINK, POUND MANY WINEMAKERS enter the The first in the series was the 2009 malbecFOR POUND, and the others followed. Warren, who hasGAMAY IS MUCH industry from unusual sources. WA’s a double major in bio chemistry and microMORE RELIABLE Mark Warren, now a winemaking leader, biology from the University of WA and has aTHAN PINOT. came from a shoe shop in Midland at Charles Sturt University qualification in wine the head of the Swan Valley in Perth’s science, also lectures in wine science and outskirts, that no longer exists. From this sensory evaluation at the Margaret River unlikely location, the student worker was Campus of Curtin University. As well, he to come into contact with the Lamont has judged at numerous shows. family – high-profile Swan winemakers – leading to a career of more than 20 He says an addition this year (2012) will be years so far, the last 10 at Margaret River a cane cut Amarone shiraz. This follows the producer Happs. success of exciting trials that have resulted in a wine of concentrated flavours, colour and Now the enterprising Warren, 43, who tannins – a “big, black awesome alcoholic believes Australian winemakers have wine”. With the cane cut technique, the fruit focused on quality at the expense of hangs until the green leaves dry off. Then it interest, has launched his own inaugural is harvested and immediately processed. wine range to show all and sundry what he means. Labelled Marq as a twist on In this way, Warren says, there is a lot more his own name, like his alternative wine skin to liquid, while the seeds inside the berries styles to those of the main stream, the change greatly going incredibly brown and initial six include three whites – 2011 fiano, woody. It results in a large amount of textural 2011 vermentino and 2011 wild yeast mouth-coating tannins rather than drying or chardonnay – and three reds, 2010 gamay, sandpaper. “We work it pretty hard,” he says, 2010 tempranillo and 2009 malbec. “leaving it on skins as long as possible before pressing. The alcohol level is high, 15.5 to Warren says the inspiration came from the 16 per cent, but it does not generate alcohol number of small bars popping up around hotness on the palate. I think it is going to be Perth selling a lot of varied overseas wines. the beginning of a cult product.” “So I thought there has to be opportunities here for an Australian version of some of Another wine on his drawing board is a these more unusual varietal styles,” he blend of Portuguese varieties. But if one said. “That is how we started.” He argues style doesn’t work, Warren will just move on there are enough people making sem sav to something else that will get him excited. blancs and cab merlots, and he makes a lot himself under contract. Fruit for the series is purchased from Happs and small plantings in the district “But while I enjoy drinking such wines, I with Warren prepared to pay top dollar to wanted to do something different,” he says. growers as encouragement.32 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Gamay, tempranillo and shiraz are boughtfrom his principal Erl Happ, who hasencouraged him to strike out, to lookbeyond the winemaking square – a verydifferent approach to principals who believetheir winemakers having their own winerepresents a conflict of interests. Warrenbelieves that while pinot noir is extremelyquestionable at Margaret River, why not lookat Burgundy’s other prominent red variety,gamay. “I think, pound for pound, gamay ismuch more reliable than pinot and that ourregion can match the very good BeaujolaisVillages. Consumers don’t always want todrink a massive red,” he says. Initially, when a friend asked him to makean Amarone style from cabernet, Warrenrated it a “stupid idea”. “A couple of yearslater, I told him to forget about making anormal cabernet – we would focus on theAmarone style because I liked it so much,”he says. Warren’s wife Danielle, a qualifiedchef, has designed the labels and is incharge of marketing. “This is a projectbased on excitement and if one does notwork, we will move on to another,” he says.“We are lucky that Erl has a lot of industryvision, prepared to try different varieties indifferent areas to see how they would go.What makes the wines really special is thatmost people do not have a comparisonbenchmark so they have to decide whetherthey like the wine or not as it is. They haveto ask themselves –is it a good one? Butthen they have to admit they don’t knowwhat a good one tastes like.”March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 33

DC EwLeLllAerRsTHE RULES OF CELLARING CAN BE COMPLEX, BUT IN THIS FIRST OFA THREE-PART SERIES JOY WALTERFANG BEGINS TO UNRAVEL THE INTRICACIES OF SUCCESSFULLY STORING AND AGEING WINES.IT’S A DIFFERENT WORLD of a wine as it evolves from a callow youth But things change and with the increasing into something velvety and glorious. Maybe use of screw cap closures over cork, somein the dark, dank and secret nether world there’s still time left to change; probably not. traditional “set-in-stone” rules for cellaringof the wine cellar. But there is something have been rewritten. Temperature is theI need to confess from the outset. I am a A wine ages because of the chemical number one priority for good cellaring.sinner. Yes - of the seven deadly sins of reactions that happen between its tannins, Even more important than the actualcellaring I have committed the first - not sugars, acids and alcohol. The correct temperature, is its uniformity; the smaller thehaving one; that’s the unhappy truth. cellaring of wine allows this process to temperature variation the better for wines happen slowly and gently, resulting in wines with cork stoppers. Constant temperature I love aged wines and will happily drag with wonderful balance and complexity that changes cause expansion and contractionout the platinum for a gorgeous old Hunter give you goose bumps when you drink of the liquid, this puts pressure on thesemillon or a Clare riesling honeyed with them. A wine cellar can be anything from a cork causing it to lose elasticity; a bit likeyears and ditto for any crusty, chocolaty, state-of-the-art, hi-tech, climate controlled pulling the cork out and putting it back inleathery red; I just can’t do the time myself. budget breaker to a styrene foam fruit box again - every day. Loss of flexibility in theMy wines are treated much like my dark tucked in the back of a linen cupboard, and cork allows small amounts of wine out andchocolate and Arnott’s Shortbread Creams everything in between. Wherever you have unwanted air in. Once air gets into wine the- if they are in the house they must be decided to lay-down your wines there are irreversible process of oxidation begins;consumed. Sadly, because of this affliction, certain rules that need to be adhered to for you could end up with an expensiveI am missing out on what is probably one of the experience to be a good one and not collection of vinegars.the most pleasurable experiences in a wine an expensive flop that reduces you to tears.lover’s life - the enjoyment of sharing the life34 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012



EVEN THE NORMALVIBRATIONS OF EVERYDAY LIFE LIKE HEAVYTRAFFIC ON BUSYROADS, BEING CLOSETO A RAILWAY LINE,RATTLING OLD AIRCONDITIONERS ANDFRIDGES CAN HAVEA NEGATIVE EFFECTON YOUR WINE’SDEVELOPMENT.

According to Tyson Stelzer, who has on the wine label. If your cellar contains turned regularly are champagnes, duringwritten much about cellaring of wines, ideal wines with cork stoppers, aim for a relative their bottle fermentation - not your reds.conditions are where the daily temperature humidity between 50-80 per cent; 70 Many red wines and vintage ports throw avariation is no more than half a degree being ideal. If you only have a screw cap crust that should not be disturbed duringcentigrade, with a weekly variation of less collection - don’t worry about it. ageing. Handle cellared wines as little asthan one degree and an annual difference possible. Once you have laid a wine downof no more than five degrees. Sounds, to If you are cellaring wines as an that’s where it should stay until you areme, like a perfect place to live! There is a investment, wine labels need to be in ready to drink it, or sell it.confusing number of temperature ranges as pristine condition as possible toquoted for ideal cellaring conditions achieve the best return for your outlay. Your cellar should be odour free; keepranging from 10C up to 18C, but there And, besides, you want to know what smelly things away from your bottles ofdoes seem to be a general consensus for you’re drinking. Go for dry. A good tip for Grange! The cellar may seem a greatthe number 15 being the one to aim for. increasing the humidity in a small area is place to store your stinky cheese but to place a bucket of water in there. As the those pungent odours could find their way Different wines may be served at different water evaporates the humidity increases. through the cork with pretty unpleasanttemperatures, but generally all wines are results. If you have only screw cappedcellared at the same mercury level. Having Definitely no windows or skylights in your wines in your cellar put your Stilton backsaid that, there are those who subscribe to cellar. Light, particularly the ultraviolet kind, in; their seals are impervious to smells.the philosophy whites, champagnes and is deadly to wine. UV causes degradation And, finally, good ventilation keeps awaysparklings age better at the lower end of of the organic compounds, especially the any musty mouldy characters that mightthe mercury scale. They certainly do in tannins, prematurely ageing the wine and be great for the ambiance of the cellarthe Champagne district. I once visited causing it to become thin and flat. Even but do nothing for the wines if they getthe ancient Roman subterranean caverns dark coloured glass can be penetrated through the cork.of the house of Pommery in Reims, where by UV light. Take extra care with yourtheir liquid “gold” is stored, and someone white wines and sparklings as they are In the period BSCC (before screw caphad to give me their jacket because I particularly sensitive to light. You will need closures) bottles had to be stored on theirhad turned purple with frost bite. While some sort of light to find your way around sides to keep the cork in contact with theon the subject of champagnes and other your bottles, candles might be romantic wine. A wet cork stays swollen in the neck ofsparklings, did you know you shouldn’t but not practical - stick to incandescent the bottle, maintaining a good seal from air.leave a bottle of it in the fridge for more lighting. Fluorescent globes give off When a cork dries out it cracks and shrinks,than a couple of days? If you’re not going significant amounts of UV. allows oxygen in and spoils the wine. Now,to drink it straightaway, put it back in your with the largest proportion of wines sealedcellar or it could spoil - heaven forbid! Peace and quiet is another consideration under screw cap you can happily stack them for optimal wine maturation. Vibration upright. However, although I haven’t done Next consideration for your chosen cellar should be kept to a minimum, preferably the sums, bottles on their side are probablyarea is the humidity. Again this is really only none at all because it interrupts the a better utilisation of space. There is anotherpertinent to the bottles in your collection ageing process that’s quietly going on in good reason for maintaining the horizontalwith cork closures. Too dry an atmosphere the slumbering bottles. Even the normal attitude for your screw capped wines. If aand corks will dry out and shrink allowing vibrations of every day life like heavy screw cap has received a sharp knock atthat deadly air in. Conversely air that’s traffic on busy roads, being close to a some stage during its journey to your cellartoo damp causes moulds to grow on cork railway line, rattling old air conditioners it can damage the seal. A bottle lying on itswith the distinct possibility of the fungus and fridges can have a negative effect on side will soon reveal if it has sprung a leak.tainting the contents. Over a period of time your wine’s development if they are close If wine is quietly seeping out of a bottle mya humid atmosphere will also take its toll enough. No zumbaring in the cellar! And, advice is to drink it immediately! by the way, the only cellared wines that get March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 37



Now to stock your cellar - where to begin? longer period of time than those that have In the second article onWe are so lucky here in Australia with our been produced in warm regions. Each cellaring we look at the lessabundance of well-made young wines vintage is different - cooler vintages that expensive storage optionsavailable at very good prices and with the allow the fruit to retain its acidity usually available from the DIYpotential to evolve handsomely if left alone produce wines that will last longer than versions to the numerous off-in cool, dark places quietly contemplating scorching hot ones that hype up sugars the-shelf options. Until thentheir future. and leave acidity lagging way behind. avoid committing the third The grape variety and the winemaking deadly sin - failing to derive A few things to consider; not all wines process itself will also decide the future of a pleasure from your wine.will age well. You can spoil a good wine wine. Even the size of the bottle can make aby not cellaring it properly but no amount difference - the larger the bottle the slower,of cellaring will improve a mediocre and therefore better, the ageing process.wine - it will simply end up being a mucholder mediocre wine. And some wines When famous stockbroker Rene Rivkinare deliberately made for drinking young, decided to downsize and sell the contentsfalling over within a couple of years. of his wine cellar, among the inventory was a 1975 methuselah (equivalent to If your cellar is small don’t waste space eight - 750ml bottles) of Veuve Clicquot,storing your fortified wine such as sherry, a salmanazar (that’s 12 bottles) oftawny port, tokay or muscat in there. They NV Veuve Clicquot and, wait for it, ahave already been aged to perfection and jeroboam (four bottles) of 1926 Chateauprobably won’t gain a thing from being Petrus and a double magnum of the 1980cellared further; permission to open, drink vintage. Now that’s a cellar!and enjoy on the day you buy it! Keep track of your wines by recording What wines will cellar well and how when and where you bought them, howlong do you keep them there? My best much you paid and tasting notes of theadvice? Read Winestate’s tasting reviews! bottles you have tried. To keep a properWherever possible, the professional panel vigil on how your wines are ageing, openof judges who do our wine reviews also a bottle on a regular basis. Make suregive suggested cellaring times. Those who you buy enough of a wine so you don’tmake the wine will know its potential - go run out just as it has reached perfection.visit wineries, talk to the people running the Deadly cellaring sin number six - owningcellar door or get friendly with your local an over-aged wine or opening one that’swine merchant. Check out the regular wine too young. Be paranoid about where yourcolumns in newspapers. Taste the wine! wine comes from and how it is shipped toIf it has intense, well-balanced flavours you. Is the store where you buy your wineand high natural acidity there’s a pretty climate controlled 24/7, both in the displaygood chance it will taste even better after and storage areas? If you buy your wineit’s been in your cellar for a couple of through a winery or from internet sitesyears. If a red is to go the distance the ask how it’s transported, you don’t wantcolour will be deep and concentrated it sitting on the back of a truck for hourswith a mouth-puckering hit of tannin and in the blazing sun. And don’t leave youracid. An austere, minerally riesling, oaky, newly purchased wine sitting in the carpeach-like chardonnay or a crisp semillon while you pop into the supermarket. On athat tastes of green apples and lemons all 30C day, the temperature inside a lockedprobably have a good chance of being car, sitting in the sun, can get as high asaround for a few years. 70C within half an hour. Wine is a delicate thing - treat it well. There are wines that keep getting betteryear after year, but most wines don’t have Now I am very worried about those fewto be aged for decades, just two to three wines I have sitting in my wine rack in myyears doing time in a cellar can bring about bright, sunny, dining room. I’m heading offsome remarkable changes. As a very rough to the greengrocer to get a styrene foamgauge, with loads of exceptions, wines broccoli box - it’s the least I can do.from cooler wine regions will mature over a March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 39

2011winestate wine tour offranrcoe u– tnhedup!PETER SIMICWINESTATE MAGAZINE’S Next morning we departed for Bordeaux. south facing vineyard. Following the tour Due to an unfortunate flight delay and staff we were offered a tasting of the 2007,fourth wine tour of France (and 14th “not challenged by service,” as one of made predominantly from merlot from aoverall) kicked off in Paris. After an our group put it, we missed the planned warmer year for the region with a higheroptional guided tour of the city, the group light lunch in the delightful “right bank” percentage of cabernet (38 per cent) thancame together for a Winestate “welcoming town of St Emilion and headed straight for normal. On this side of the Dordogne riverdrinks” at our hotel, the impressive old our first winery visit at Chateau Angelus. the “clarets” are predominantly merlot andVictorian Hotel La Concorde, where a This is a premium “first growth” classified cabernet franc, with smaller percentagesselection of eight quality regional wines winery and the largest vineyard holder in of cabernet sauvignon.were presented. It was a good opportunity the region. Here we were met by Laurentfor the group to be introduced to each Benoit who gave us a very informative tour To compensate for our missed Stother; both the “newbies” and what I call through the expansive, tightly spaced, Emilion town visit I organised a surpriseour “repeat offenders”. visit to the Bar au Vin in the centre of40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Chateau Cos de Estournel and barrel room.the city of Bordeaux, selecting eight known sub-regions of Margaux, Pauillac, derelict vineyards dating back to the 16threds and whites to peruse. This is a well St Estephe and Saint Julien lie, and century. Representing the new generation,organised tasting venue owned by the cabernet sauvignon is king. First stop grandson, Basile Tesseron, described theConseil Interprofessionnel du vin de was in St Estephe at the exotic Eastern extensive viticultural organic practicesBordeaux (the official promotional wine architecturally themed winery of 2nd Growth of the estate, including rows being co-body of Bordeaux), which runs regular Cos de Estournel, where its founder, Louis planted with grass and minimal spraytastings and masterclasses of the many Gaspard d’Estournel, had a predilection for treatments, along with maximum caresmaller wines from the region. (It became Eastern/Indian delights. With its elephant for hand-picked grapes. After a vineyarda regular haunt for tour members!) motifs and spacious entrance hall it could tour we enjoyed the tasting of the two easily pass for a luxury hotel rather than wines the chateau makes, the grand vin Next morning, bright eyed and bushy a winery. Incongruously, while we waited Chateau Lafon-Rochet and the secondtailed, we headed north to the famous below we saw men on the mezzanine wine (from younger grapes), formerly“left bank” of Bordeaux where the well bridge above pushing stainless steel known as Numero 2 de Lafon-Rochet, but carts of grapes that had been transferred now known as Pelerins de Lafon-Rochet, from small picking bins. The winery has a nice comparison between the more a philosophy of complete gravity fed approachable younger wine and the firmer operations; no pipes and no hoses. Later classic wine. a special hosted tasting of the house 2007 claret was in order. After a light lunch in Pauillac we moved on to our next winery 5th Growth Chateau A quick trip down the road saw us at Pontet Canet, a close neighbour to the the 4th Growth Chateau Lafon-Rochet exalted Chateaux of Lafite and Mouton. where the brightly coloured, daffodil This is another winery with the Guy yellow, 18th century chateau was built Tesseron connection, albeit where son by Guy Tesseron after purchasing the Alfred took over management from 1990. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 41

Here we saw the first bio-dynamic vineyardin Bordeaux. While early experiments of“green harvesting” (dropping fruit) andleaf plucking has been discontinued andsulphur addition at ferment has beenmaintained, other bio-dynamic principlesare continuing, including an interestingmove to using horses again in the vineyardrather than tractors, to reduce compaction.An eye-opening row of egg-like cementcontainers, reminiscent of the movieCocoon, continues the innovation thatthis winery is known for. The grand vin ischateau Pontet-Canet and the second Les Above: Chateau Lafon-Rochet. Opposite: Chateau Angelus.I COULD WAX LYRICAL ABOUT THE ART, On to the commercial wine region ofTHE BUILDINGS AND THE GROUNDS, BUT Languedoc, the engine room of French wineTHE PERSONAL TOUCH ALWAYS WINS. and by far its biggest producer, where vin ordinaire is the goal, from a warmer and drierHauts de Pontet-Canet. We were invited Michelin restaurant Le Chapon Fin where, climate region. Recently, however, someto taste both wines and noted the dense, in conjunction with the sommelier, I chose very good boutique producers have arisen.black fruit and depth of tannins involved. a range of expensive Bordeaux wines to Our first visit took us to Mattes-Sabran, with match the delicious food. a winery house that can only be described Next morning we headed south of as having “elegant decadence”. It is theBordeaux to Graves, where historically the Leaving Bordeaux the tour ventured south country retreat of Parisian Jean-Luc Brouillatcabernet grape ripens earlier, resulting in east to the luxuriant food and spirit region of who has engaged his passion of makingfuller, softer reds than those from the north. Armagnac, less known than its much larger wine across various varietals. The wineryOur plan was to have a full morning at grand brother, Cognac, but more personable, itself is rustic and reminiscent of an oldcru Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte, before with small boutique producers. One such ’50s Australian winery. We were generouslyour first Winestate Celebration dinner that producer is the Delord Family, with English offered eight wines of a very good standardnight. It proved a wise move, with owner Armagnac director, Amanda Garnham, and and great value, which should be everyone’sMadame Florence Cathiard hosting us Delord distiller, Jerome Delord, hosting us “house wine”.for a comprehensive tasting of their wines for a superb masterclass of the region, withafter our obligatory winery tour. A superb Armagnacs from eight regional producers. Next stop was the fascinating Chateaulady, she charmed our group with her These are grape brandies produced L’Hospitalet, which has set itself up as theexperiences and knowledge, and although from distilling the neutral white varieties hospitality centre of the region, with a verythe tasting was a blur, I remember that the ugni blanc, folle blanche, baco and professional community of artisan shops,2007 grand vin red was the highlight of colombard. This was followed by lunch at cellar door, hotel and restaurant. After aBordeaux for that difficult vintage. I could the rollicking Caprices d’Antan restaurant lively tasting we were invited to climb upwax lyrical about the art, the buildings in the town of Lannepax, the only restaurant the hill to view the surrounding countrysideand the grounds, but the personal touch in the village and a truly magical, rural and this was followed by a well-earned lunchalways wins. That night our satisfied group French dining experience with the locals. hosted at their restaurant. Saturday morningfrocked up and headed off to the one-star We felt very special! saw us arrive at the Mas de Daumas Gassac winery where eccentric founder, 87-year-old Aime Guibert, and sons Samuel and Roman, have created blends that can only be described as “challenging”, with viognier, chardonnay, petit manseng and chenin blanc in the white and cabernet franc, merlot, malbec, syrah, petit verdot, tannat, and carmenere in the red. No one can say, though, that they don’t have flavour!42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Their aim is to take the image of Languedoc that export around the world. Next came though from wonderfully hospitable hosts.to another level with different flavours and the Gonnet family-owned Chateau Font de Next morning, with great anticipation, wesome surprises, and they have succeeded. Michelle where we had a great time withVery nice cabernet, indeed. An hour later we fellow Aussie, Commercial Manager Kelly headed north to Cornas to visit Chateauarrived in Avignon to hang up our spurs at Gonnet. She married into the family through Auguste Clape, the equal winner ofthe 16th century, four-star hotel Cloitre Saint winemaker Guillaume. Accordingly, we Winestate magazine’s 2010 World’sLouis, a marvelous old seminary that has received wonderful hospitality with a Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge, knockingbeen remodeled and updated. With a free tasting of a full range of their wines, off all the great names like Grange, Guigal,day to see how the Popes lived and street including the 2009, 2005, 2001, 1998 and Chapoutier et al. The aim was to present themarkets to visit, our group assembled that 1995 accompanied by delicious regional winner’s certificate personally (and to tasteevening for another Winestate Celebration cheeses. The wines showed the classic some of their beautiful wines). This winerydinner at the Michelin-starred La Mirande flavours of Chateau Neuf du Pape with is not open to the public and a shed doorrestaurant where fine wines were matched grenache and syrah predominant, but also on the main road outside of town openedto an impressive menu. mourvedre, cinsaut, and up to 13 in the mix, to reveal a cellar door stepped back in if required. A short hop away, we visited time, including an underground cellar with An early morning start signaled a big day Chateau Vieux Telegraphe, perhaps the more mould than space (a true garagistewith three winery visits organised. First stop most famous winery name in the region. winery). However, across the road wewas at Gabriel Meffre in Gigondas, a very Here we had the historical Chateau Neuf visited another warehouse where the large,successful corporate identity with a big du Pape winery and we were delighted square, cement fermenting tanks showedrange to appeal to all-comers. These were to taste the 1995 and three different 1999 where the action was. It was an interestingvalue wines, surprisingly bottled under Gigondas wines. We were offered more, comparison of open rustic oxidative handlingscrew cap, an emerging trend not often but sadly the day was moving on and we fermentation versus the pristine, non-seen in France. We had the opportunity to had to get back to town. A great experience intrusive, methods of Bordeaux, each sotaste six whites and seven reds from wines different yet each producing wines of quality. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 43

Left: Amazing leadlight panel at Bar au Vin, Bordeaux. Centre: A line up of Armagnacs. Right: Chateau Pontet-Canet. Below: Our private tasting at Chateau Pontet-Canet.We were delighted to meet family members Loiseau des Vignes (part of the Hotel Le picking and vineyard management forPierre and Olivier who hosted us through Cep and the Luxury Hotels Group). the premier classification might explaina vertical tasting of their amazing, old, this discrepancy.rich and sumptuous syrah wines. We had Next day we had a special walkingallowed a lot of time for this experience tour arranged by Australian expatriate, That afternoon our group split intoand we were not disappointed. Well worth Damien Wilson, Wine Director and two, half visiting the Domaine Lucie etchasing up this brand! Associate Professor from the Burgundy Auguste Lignier and half to Domaine des School of Business. We started in Beaumont Cellars, both in Morey-Saint Onwards to Beaune and to the Hotel La Volnay, south of Beaune, to taste a Denis. I had excellent reports from the firstPoste. After another hearty breakfast we village and premier cru wine from a small group hosted by owner Kellen Lignier, anembarked on a walking tour to Maison winery with a masterclass from a fellow American single mother who continuedChanson Pere et Fils, (part of the Burgundy School associate. Here we on the winery after her husband, Romain,Bollinger group), a winery that impressed also observed the terroir of south facing passed away. The winery continueson a previous tour. Due to timing with the slopes of medium height commanding a on the tradition of natural fermentationmiddle of vintage we couldn’t go down the more valuable standing than the flats or and minimal handling to produce highlyspiral staircase into the cellar/operations the top of the hill. Back on the bus we textured premier and grand crus. Our grouparea, but our host Jean-Luc Cortier headed a short distance north of Beaune reported a wonderful tasting with Kellencompensated by giving us an amazing to Aloxe-Corton where another vineyard leading them all in a sing-along of Frenchmasterclass of great premier and grand walk showed a village designated patch songs at the end! The second group movedcru red and white burgundies. His Gallic of pinot noir and a premier cru patch on to Domaine Beaumont where we weresense of humour coincided well with the with only a dirt road separating them, hosted by Thierry Beaumont and taken intodry wit from some of our tour members. but having the same soil and slight the cellar to explore a range of premierThat evening we all joined again for medium height slope. While terroir cru and grand cru Burgundies. We wereanother fabulous Winestate Celebration was mentioned, interestingly, the more delighted to taste wines from Morey Saint-dinner, this time at the Michelin-starred stringent appellation conditions of Denis, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin. On the way back to Beaune we had organised a visit to Domaine Louis Bouillot in Nuits St George, a sparkling wine producer of Cremant de Bourgogne. They produce popular style, refreshing sparklings from a non-champagne region, which is interesting in itself. What blew us away, however, was their L’Imaginarium experience the best wine museum and wine “sound and light show” I have seen anywhere in the world. OK, it’s Disney meets wine history, but it is informative, innovative and spectacular.44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Above: Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte. Left: Champagne Deutz. Travelling north, but still in Bourgogne, the us around and invite us to taste the wines. of underground tunnels and the sheernext day saw us in Chablis, the famous dry Their approachable champagne shows a organisation that has taken champagnewhite wine sub-region of Burgundy. Here we nice, soft, generosity of flavour that appeals to the world. Of course we had to taste,have wines that are generally more fresh, to a world-wide market. They specialise and our tour host introduced us to ourminerally and zesty (often unoaked, but not in producing BIG bottles of champagne, sommelier for the day who took us into thealways) and less textured than the southern including jeroboams (3 litres), methuselas garden to taste some of their 2002 product.regions of Meursault, and Puligny and (6 litres), and balthazars (12 litres) that can A nice end to the day.Chassagne Montrachet. One of the leading be sent anywhere in the world.houses of the region is Domaine William On Sunday, our final day in Champagne,Fevre, a grand cru winery and part of the On arrival in Reims I had organised a we had a leisurely program with only ourHenriot Champagne Group. This was our visit and lunch at the suberb House of last Winestate Celebration lunch as thesecond visit to this winery and it was great Champagne Deutz (part of the Louis feature with lots of time to relax (and packto again taste the fine premier and grand Roederer group) hosted by PR Director Mr for the trip home). We chose well withcrus that they produce. En-route to our last Lallier-Deutz. After a lovely stroll through two-star Michelin restaurant Auberge dustop in the city of Reims, in the heart of the the Deutz gardens, winery, cellars and Grand Serf proving to be the highlight ofChampagne region, we visited Maison cave we sojourned to the breathtaking our restaurant experiences with outstandingChampagne Drappier, one of the first Chateau (formerly Mr William Deutz’s food quality and genuine service. Initiallywineries you can visit coming from Beaune. private Mansion House) for a tasting we had some reservations about a menuHere we were treated to a tour of the followed by lunch in the President’s that, apart from one red, had champagnesimpressive ancient cellars going back to the private dining room. A truly amazing with every course. But with some judicious12th century. Founded by Cistercian monk, experience! After lunch we boarded the bargaining we traded their first courseSaint Bernard, the company is now in the bus for the obligatory trip to the fountain of aperitif champagne with the Deutz non-hands of the Drappier family and we were all things champagne, Moet & Chandon. vintage that they had kindly provided. Thenpleased to have the urbane Samuel show Here, even for those who have been here we swapped their red with a very special before, it is amazing to see the kilometres magnum of 1961 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte that had been provided earlier by Madame Florence Cathiard, from her own personal cellar – an amazing act of generosity greatly appreciated by us all. This was a wonderful end to an absorbing tour and my thanks go out to all our hosts throughout the tour; seeing some old friends and making some new ones. And, of course, our own tour group, who although coming from different backgrounds, ages and experiences, all seem to gel well together with the most important factors proving to be wine and food in delightful company. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 45

GAME DECISIONS Spanish wine lovers are as notoriously vocal in support of their favourite reds as they are of their football teams, writes Andre Pretorius. 46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

Vega Sicilia winery. “ I T ’ S L I K E F O O T B A L L , ” explains ELEGANCE AND my friend Manuel over lunch in Madrid. FINESSE, NOT POWER, “You support either Barcelona or Real Madrid – and whichever it is, it is an article I WAS COMING TO of faith. The same goes for wine: you are either a Rioja drinker or you swear LEARN, ARE THE by Ribera del Duero. I drink Ribera and support Real!”. HALLMARKS OF Usually when there is talk of “two Spains”, RIBERA DEL DUERO’S it refers to politics and the painful memories of the civil war. But I am being initiated into a FINEST REDS. much more benign Spanish duality: between the wines, mostly red, of Rioja in the Basque of the Duero. It is a family affair in the finest country, and those of the valley of the Duero Spanish tradition: the husband rules in near the former royal capital of Valladolid. the kitchen, emerging occasionally with I was immersed in Rioja – quite literally – a stooped shoulders to pat a regular on the few years ago when I joined the forces doing shoulder, while his short, portly wife bustle battle in the annual Batalla del Vino on a front of house. Manuel had recommended hillside near the town of Haro in the heart of the winery of Pago de Carraovejas as his the Rioja region. Away from the frivolity of favourite Ribera discovery of the moment hundreds of Spaniards drenching each other and my eyes light up when I discover their in red wine, I tasted some wonderful wines wine on the wine list. But Manuel cannot at Marqués de Riscal and Sierra Cantabria. have been alone in his appreciation of this wine: it is sold out. There were wines on This time I am on my way to the Ribera del the list, the names of which I recognised: Duero and perhaps its most illustrious winery, some venerable vintages of Vega Sicilia's Vega Sicilia. The day after lunch with Manuel, famed Unico, and wines from Ribera's most I head northwest from Madrid, into the broken expensive boutique winery, Dominio de geography of the Sierra de Guadarrama Pingus. As so often, if I recognised the name, range. It is a beautiful spring day and the my wallet would not wear it: even though peaks of the Sierra are glistening with the last those bottles of Unico were remarkably of the winter’s snows. Ascending through the keenly priced for such a revered wine, a Sierra, I reach the high plain of Castile, a fertile few hundred euros for a bottle at lunch for expanse of farmland dotted with featureless one was probably excessive. “Do you sell towns, remote farmsteads and the ruins of a lot of these wines?” I inquired from my the mediaeval castles that gave the ancient personable host. “Not as much as before,” kingdom of Castile its name. Some way north she replied and added that it is now usually of Segovia the plain descends to the broad foreign visitors who drink them here. She river valley of the Duero. As it meanders to recommended I try the Bodegas Dehesa de the west, this river – Iberia's second largest – los Canonigos 2004 with my lechazo, a veal- will pass through Portugal, acquire the name like local delicacy of chops from unweaned Douro and become synonymous with port lambs less than 35 days old, grilled in a wine before emptying itself into the Atlantic traditional hornos de lena oven. It was a food at the port capital of Oporto. But here, in its and wine match made in culinary heaven: Spanish upper reaches, it feeds the vines of the elegance, the finesse of the wine was the Ribera del Duero. perfect foil for the delicacy and marrow-like tenderness of the small lamb chops. I follow the N-122 road east along the valley floor towards an horizon crowned by the imposing battlements of one of those castles of the Reconquista from the Moors. In the shadow of the fortress, on a bend in the river, I find the town of Penafiel in time for a late Sunday lunch. The Molinos le Palacios restaurant is in a converted mill on the stream of the Duranto, a small tributary March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 47

Elegance and finesse, not power, I wascoming to learn, are the hallmarks of Riberadel Duero’s finest reds. When tasting VegaSicilia's wines with Yolanda Perez thefollowing day, she remarked that they don'tlike showing Unico in wine competitions,as the finesse of their flagship tends to beovershadowed by more powerful wines andit rarely comes into its own. I had met Perezat the Alion winery near Penafiel. Alion,together with Pintia, a winery acquiredby Vega Sicilia in 2001 in the Toro regiondownstream along the Duero to the west,complete Vega Sicilia's trio of wineries fromthis region. In 1993 the group also acquiredOremus, one of the great names of theHungarian region of Tokaji. And, despitethat vinous duality to which Manuel hadalerted me, in 2013 Vega Sicilia hopes torelease the first Rioja from a joint venturewith the Rothschilds. Perez showed me around Alion's newfacilities, explaining how the three estatesseek to express their different terroirs,micro-climates and grape varieties withsubtle differences in their winemakingtechniques. At Alion there is 60ha oftempranillo, the same grape that providesthe mainstay at Vega Sicilia and also thesame grape used further north in Rioja,although in Ribera tempranilllo is calledTinto Ffno. At Pintia, the grapes areexclusively tinto di toro, a regional variationof tempranillo. The new wineries built at Alion and Pintiawere built to exactly the same plans, butthey produce quite different wines. Alionexemplifies the finesse of Ribera; thedifferent grape variety and hotter climatein Toro gives Pintia a greater rusticity,more naked power. The process ofrenewal has now also reached the VegaSicilia estate itself. Perez explained thatthe name of the estate is shrouded inmystery: “vega” is an old Spanish wordfor the fertile river plain and “Sicilia”may be consistent with references to aRight: Vega Sicilia vineyards.48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

monastery devoted to St Cecilia that may emptied and refilled every five months, Alion’s wine from the same vintagehave existed in these parts. In 1848, the of then being blended and transferred into revealed an altogether different characterMarques de Valbuena sold the estate to large wooden vats for another two-three – what one might call the essence of Riberaa Basque landowner Eloy Lecanda. His years before being bottled and spending del Duero. This wine was no older than theson, Toribio, had a passion for wine and another four years in bottle before being Pintia but it was already approachable,introduced French vines on an estate released around a decade after the harvest. displaying the elegance and finesse ofdevoted to agriculture and cattle farming. This painstaking and time-consuming its region. Floral notes on the nose andHis passion was not matched by talent process delivers one of the world's great ripe red berries on the palate culminatedand the wines were unremarkable, but wines and in those years when it does not in a lovely long finish. The hot vintage ofafter his death the estate was sold to – like 1992, 1993, 1997 and 2001 – Unico 2006 produced in Vega Sicilia's Valbuenathe Herrero family, who hired Domingo does not see the light of day. But even in a wine of great ripeness and complexity.Garramiola, a winemaker versed in the the years when Unico does attain its own The blend of 90 per cent tempranillo andways of Bordeaux; in 1915 the estate’s standards of greatness, Vega Sicilia goes on 10 per cent merlot and malbec was stillflagship wines, Unico and Valbuena, were to do something that seems, at first blush, to young but already offered a smooth andborn. There followed a series of changes be bizarre to the point of sacrilege: it blends velvety drink of beautifully integratedin ownership until 1982, when the Alvarez a small proportion of its production of Unico fruit and wood. And then it was time forfamily acquired it. The ownership of from two or three vintages into a non-vintage the main event: Perez had not yet tastedAlvarez heralded the age of greatness wine. The result – Reserva Especial – is the the 2002 Unico herself and was quitefor Vega Sicilia. Of the estate’s 900ha, most sought-after of the estate’s wines, its excited to do so. This great wine was morearound 250ha are under vine, consisting allure enhanced by the small production of austere, its rim beginning to turn to garnet,of 80-85 per cent tempranillo and 10 per no more than 15,000 bottles. its nose offering hints of leather andcent cabernet sauvignon, with malbec cigars. Unico is a blend of between 80-and merlot making up the balance. The It is understandable, then, that Perez 90 per cent tempranillo, rounded off withestate has 19 different soil types abutting does not pour me this wine when we sit cabernet sauvignon. There was structurethe Duero to the south, resulting in 57 down to taste the jewels of Duero: every to it and complexity. It evolved in the glass,discrete plots. The renewal of the facilities bottle of Reserva Especial is spoken revealing liquorice tones. This seemed ahas sought to extend that structure into for many times over and as export philosopher’s wine, a meditative wine tothe winery itself. Perez showed off the manager she has her hands full beating keep you busy for hours. I thought I couldrecently completed vinification room with off requests for increased allocations. see why Perez was reluctant to subject itits 57 different fermentation vats – 19 in Instead, we start with the Mandolas 2007 to the ignominy of the competition hall.wood, designed for the vinification of from Oremus, a dry white wine from the But if it were a philosopher's wine, it wasUnico, and 38 in stainless steel for the furmint grape. It is a wine full of minerals also a footballer’s wine: as she was drivingestate’s wine, Valbuena. The state-of-the- and acidity which develops notes of burnt up from Madrid, Perez told me she hadart facility – all steel, glass and clinical honey in the glass, perhaps revealing its heard on the radio that Real Madrid’s starwhite – was used to vinify half of Vega true calling as a cornerstone of the great footballer Ronaldo had celebrated someSicilia’s 2010 vintage, but from the 2011 dessert wines of Tokaji. triumph or other with his girlfriend in theharvest it will be fully operational. most expensive hotel suite in Madrid. The purple rim of the Pintia 2007 And with a bottle of Unico over dinner. Perez outlined the winemaking that goes served notice that this was far too earlyinto producing this famed wine: of grapes to be trying to savour it but there was Which brings me right back to thehand-picked and manually selected before no disguising the pedigree of this wine football analogy with which Manuel hadbeing cooled from 30C to 3C and de- of 100 per cent Tinta di Toro. The hotter started me off the previous day. Am Istemmed, of being pressed by gravity and climate in Toro means Pintia usually a Ribera man, or do my loyalties lie inpumped over on average eight times a day, harvests a fortnight before Alion and Rioja? Unlike in football, the answer mayof being transferred into new barrels – 60 Vega Sicilia, and the thicker skins of be different over time. But for today I amper cent French oak, 40 per cent American the local variety of tempranillo, together a devotee of these apogees of elegance– for malolactic fermentation, of remaining in with 12 months in all new French and on the banks of the Duero.those barrels for 30-36 months in the case of American oak, makes for a full-bodied,Unico (18 months for Valbuena) and being tannic, powerful wine full of violets, dark ITALIAN & SPANISH TASTING STARTS PAGE 74. chocolate and coffee flavours. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 49

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINMelbourne’s inner-city is buzzing with new its history. Corner of Albert St & 382 Sydneyopenings and the end of 2011 held nothing Rd, Brunswick; Phone (03) 8354 6600.back in the inner-north and the CBD.Brunswick, in Melbourne’s inner-north, saw After the success of their Fitzroy tapasa welcome addition in Albert St Food & restaurant, Anada, which opened in 2008,Wine that opened in November. Owned and husband-and-wife team Jesse and Vanessaoperated by hospitality veterans, sommelier Gerner opened The Aylesbury on LonsdaleStuart Brookshaw and his wife, restaurant St, in the city, where the pizzeria Barbargallomanager, Ruth Giffney, the pair employed previously sat. An ambitious project, Thethe extensive talents of chef Philippa Sibley Aylesbury, is a restaurant downstairs andto man the stoves and create the menu for five floors up is a roof-top bar that’s easy tothe restaurant and the food store. Sibley escape to and let the city pass by below.is well-known as part-owner and dessert Jesse’s menu has kept the Spanish influencechef behind the much lauded Est Est Est in flavours seen at Anada but not nearly asin the late 1990s with former husband intensely, focusing more simply on product;chef, Donovan Cooke. The pair went on small dishes may include zucchini flowersto open Luxe and Ondine with Sibley also filled with goat’s cheese or succulentlyhighlighting her desserts skills at restaurants roasted local pig off-cuts with apple, whilelike St Kilda’s Circa and The Prince after share plates are built around a whole fish,she split from Cooke. At Albert St, Sibley is perhaps crumbed flounder, dry-aged beef or dry-aged hogget (a pig between onegoing savoury and sweet, incorporating all and two years old). There’s a very nurturing Renee McConnell have created a home forher cooking skills in a generous menu built culture being established at The Aylesbury, their passion for all things Argentinean in thisaround local, Victorian produce. Seasonal most of the vegetables on the menu are smart, moody dining room. Hardwood doorspizzas such as ‘The Tomato Party’ fed the grown in the Gerner’s garden in inner- from Buenos Aires welcome customers assummer crowds, topped with pesto, heirloom Melbourne and they also keep a beehive does the enormous parrilla - a custom-madetomatoes and trecce cheese, and ‘From the on the roof of their garage at home and use grill made in Argentina for San Telmo - asGrill’ may include fresh sardines on grilled the honey on the menu. It couldn’t get much soon as you walk in. There’s lots of wood,bread with capers or a scotch fillet with a more local with the food, while the wine list a carpeted dining room and the menu isfiesty horseradish remoulade. Brookshaw’s is a neat juxtaposition of smart wines from meaty, as it should be. Chef Michael Patrick,experience with wine shines on the list with Australia, New Zealand and Europe. Drops who cooked at Ladro and North Fitzroy’sa savvy selection from Australia and abroad, from Vouvray and Santorini lay alongside SuperMaxi, has created a menu authentic inby-the-glass, by the carafe (500ml/1 litre) and others from Victoria’s King Valley and its execution while utilitising great Victorianof course, by the bottle. The food store sells NZ’s Kumeu. 103 Lonsdale St, Melbourne; produce. Sharing is encouraged and dishesup to 40 items made by Sibley, including Phone (03) 9077 0451. that support this may include Empanadarelishes, chutneys and terrines and all local filled with either beef and currants, or cheeseproduce is used where possible. This is Melbourne’s love of all things South and cauliflower, a Plato di Picada - a platea smart set-up - the room is designed by American continues to explode with the of jamon, bresaola, chorizo and pickledarchitect Fiona Drago - and highlights the opening of San Telmo in late 2011. Four green tomatoes - and the grill is a feast ofchanging face of Brunswick while respecting owners, brothers Michael and Dave Parker beef cuts. Short ribs, flank or hanger steak along with husband-and-wife Jason and are highlights as well as an eight-hour, slow- cooked whole animal (available after 6pm) and a 1kg rib steak (very ideal for sharing). The wine list is completely Argentinean, don’t be put off by this, the staff know their stuff and can guide you through what you know and like to finding something that’s similar in style. It’s an exciting time for this cuisine in Melbourne and will be great to watch how places like San Telmo evolve.14 Meyers Pl, Melbourne; Phone (03) 9650 5525. Above: Albert St interior & their tomato party pizza. © Carla Gottgens.50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012