Winestate Magazine March April 2015

MARCH/APRIL 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 2 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE barossa Italian & spanish central & western victoria ROSÉ chardonnay MARLBOROUGH (NZ) 176 ITALIAN Cocktail Credentials AND SPANISH PROSECCO’S SPARKLING FUTURE Marlborough’s high profile winesprint post approved 100003663 March/April 2015 Australia’s iconic wine estate Vol 38 Issue 2 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) ON WITH THE NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 SHOW EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Rosé • Chardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • New Releases





Dell’uva Wines is the pure expression of the fruit on the vine. Hence our name, which means ‘of the grape’. Dell’uva is the pursuit of the very best vineyard practices, with the very bestclones, and the very best rootstocks. It is a story of travelling the world tounderstand the wines from the ground up, and to bring this back to the Barossa. Dell’uva is rewriting the rules. www.delluvawines.com.au CONTACT: [email protected]

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SOUTH AUSTRALIA THE WINE STATEOPEN THE DOOR TOPREMIUM WINE

No.268 MARCH/APRIL 2015Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] Australia’sNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley first organicSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin certifierWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel Proud sponsor of theNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MW Australian OrganicNational Travel Winsor DobbinEurope André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW Wine of the YearASIA Denis Gastin www.nasaa.com.auADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2013 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes noresponsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsMARCH/APRIL 2015 r eg u la r s features 12 Briefs 30 30 SOUTHERN STARS 20 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper Marlborough’s reputation as 22 European Report with Sally Easton one of the world’s premier wine 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley regions continues to grow, in 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King part because of its two main 27 Wine History with Valmai Hankel attractions - sauvignon blanc and 37 Grapevine pinot noir. Michael Cooper reports 42 Wine Words in his regional profile that during 49 Subscription Form 2014 more than 1 billion glasses 44 Wine Investment & Collecting of sauvignon blanc were poured 50 What’s it Worth? around the world and the area’s 138 Aftertaste rising star - pinot noir - has settledwine tastings 34 into second spot on the region’s most popular planting guide. 54 Rosé 60 Central & Western Victoria 32 COCKTAIL CREDENTIALS 64 Italian & Spanish The Italian fizz super-star prosecco 76 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley is carving an envious reputation 80 Chardonnay & Blends as the world’s latest trendy drink, 90 Marlborough, NZ writes Winsor Dobbin. From Venice, 102 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases New York, London and Australia, prosecco is the ‘hottest’ wine style 32 going. It is such a star that it’s home region in Italy’s north-east is enjoying a surge in wine tourism, with up to five million travellers flocking to the area every year. 34 ON WITH THE SHOW No one can accuse Warren Randall of being timid. While others might be tempted to batten down the hatches in troubling times, the Australian wine industry mover and shaker has his foot flat to the floor in optimistic expansionist mode, driven by a real sense of the opportunity awaiting the brave and the bold, writes Nigel Hopkins. 111 New Releases, Whiskies of the World and Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 268 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au March/April 2015. Cover photograph Natalia Van Doninck.

COOL CLIMATE AUSTRALIAN WINE | THE GALLERY RESTAURANT DESIGN COLLECTION | CONCERTS | BESPOKE EVENTS BIRDINHAND.COM.AU

A Worldwide Passion IBITIONEXH COM 2015 V I N I TA LY. V I N ITA LY 49th EDITIO N V ERO N A M A RC H 22-2 5organized by together with VERONA, MARCH 21 2015 Premier Event at Vinitaly operawine.itFOLLOW ON V I N I TA LY. C O M FOR INFORMATION [email protected]

editorialONE OF THE GREAT SAYINGS and, perhaps the ultimate curse,is “may you live in interesting times”. We have seen this recently with the takeover of Peter Lehmann winesby Casella, makers of Yellowtail, and shortly after Grant Burge wines byAccolade, makers of Hardy’s, Houghton, Leasingham, Banrock Stationand many others. The biggest play was for Treasury Wine Estates, makersof the iconic Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Wynns and Lindemans brands amongothers. Although $3.4 billion was on the table the company declined. Thecommon theme involved in all these takeovers and offers is that they allhave substantial holdings in the Barossa. It seems that first and foremostBarossa has the reputation and caché that appeals to Asian buyers andall these companies want a stake in the region for the future. Indeed, justlike in Bordeaux, where it is estimated that over 100 wineries are nowowned by Chinese connections, many wineries or vineyards in Australiahave changed hands to Asian buyers such as Chateau Yaldara 1847 fromMcGuigan Wines Australian Vintage wine company. In these difficult times for the wine industry it is another moving of thedeck chairs and some will succeed while others will not be so lucky. It was always thus, as those of us old enoughto remember can hark back to “the good old days” of the PLO (Penfolds, Lindemans and Orlando) before they,too, were taken over, changing the wine landscape. You may also remember some other names like Kaiser Stuhl,Southcorp, Constellation Brands (Australia), Adelaide Steamship and many others. Orlando has morphed intoJacob’s Creek and recently acknowledged their true owners as Pernod Ricard Winemakers. In New ZealandMontana became Brancott Estate. We are going through a period of renewal and my only hope is that we don’t“throw out the baby with the bathwater”. The hard fought quality of wines produced in both Australia and NewZealand are of world standard quality and above all we must keep that quality level. In the meantime we continue to taste and judge a multitude of wines, and in this issue we are pleased to bringyou a roundup of tastings. For the “style” judgings we have the Italian and Spanish beauties, both from the OldCountry and our own New World, plus a very interesting line-up of rosés, perfect for a warm climate lunch, alongwith our “new age” chardonnays which are fresher and more structured than in the past. For our regional tastingswe have the fabulous regions of Barossa, Marlborough (New Zealand) and the great expanse of Central & WesternVictoria. And to finish we have the smorgasbord of the latest new releases from both Australia and New Zealand.Lots to like and lots to enjoy!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher

briefsTRACING THE TASMANIAN CHALLENGE DEMANDING TIMESWINE writer and wine IT IS a little known fact that a small family-owned vineyard inh i s t o r i a n To n y Wa l k e r the Derwent Valley, just north of Hobart, is the major provider ofrecently published Vintage chardonnay for the iconic Penfolds Yattarna. The Hanigan family, whoTasmania, the Complete have farmed their Mt Nassau property at Granton for five generations,Book of Tasmanian Wine cannot ask that kind of money for their Derwent Estate wines just yet- a comprehensive guide - but they are closing in quickly with the new-release Calcaire 2011to the history of wine in Chardonnay retailing for $65. The unveiling of a new range of “reserve”the state. The book covers wines completes a remarkable two years for Trevor and Pat Haniganthe history of viticulture in and their viticulturist son Andrew. The Hanigans have been workingthe state and a review of the land since 1913; farming sheep and cattle, growing vegetables,the industry today, with seed crops, poppies and quarrying for lime. They only planted grapescontributions from leading figures including James Halliday, in 1993 and found the limestone-based alluvial soils and riverbankAndrew Pirie and Fred Peacock. Walker tells the story of Tasmanian micro-climate proved ideal for producing top quality fruit. Plantedwine from the first plantings in 1823 to the state’s emergence as with pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc,one of the world’s most promising cool-climate regions. The book their vineyards are treated with minimal intervention; insecticidesalso provides a comprehensive review of the Tasmanian industry and invasive pesticides are avoided whenever possible. Much oftoday, including a guide to the state’s wine routes. the fruit from their vines was initially sold to mainland companies but they are now keeping more grapes for their own label as they The 280-page illustrated history is the result of a two-year Masters struggle to meet demand. The Hanigans recently held an open daydegree study by the author and is based on more than 50 interviews to mark the official opening of their new straw-bale winery and barrelwith industry pioneers. Although viticulture was revived in Tasmania room which was first used for the 2014 vintage after experiencedby Frenchman Jean Miguet and Claudio Alcorso in the 1950s, the winemaker John Schuts joined the team as a business partner. Thefirst commercial size vineyards were not planted until 1974. wines were initially made at Winemaking Tasmania by Schuts, but now everything is done in-house, and Derwent Estate has national In just 40 years, the fledgling industry has become, in the words distribution. A cellar door tasting facility and a possible conferenceof James Halliday’s introduction “the most vibrant in Australia, with venue are next in the pipeline - and will offer superb views over thevirtually unlimited potential”. Derwent Valley. The new “reserve” Calcaire range, named after the vineyard’s calcareous soil, comprises a pinot noir, chardonnay and Walker has a long association with the Tasmanian industry, from riesling from the stellar 2011 vintage.operating the crusher at the first Pipers Brook vintage, to morethan a decade writing about Tasmanian wine for the Launceston With just 10 ha of vines, Derwent Estate is in the fortunate position ofExaminer. “It has been an extraordinary story,” he said. “Tasmania demand outstripping supply. And a cider range, known as Ebenezer,was unknown territory for viticulture and all the Australian expertise has been added to the range of drinks on offer.and research was based on warmer climates.” Vintage Tasmaniacan be ordered from www.providoretasmania.com.au.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32712 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

briefsSPIRIT WORLD CHANGE OF PACEYOU might call it a gin and whiskey led recovery, Australian-made MARGARET River’s founding wine estate, Vasse Felix, hasdistilled spirits have never looked in better shape. The rise and rise introduced an exciting new fit-out to its cellar door and restaurant,of the spirit is confirmed with this year’s inaugural Australian Distilled featuring a range of locally and internationally-sourced furnishingsSpirits Awards. and joinery. The winery has transformed its cellar door experienceThe Awards are under the auspices of The Royal Agricultural beyond the traditional tasting bar to include wine by the glassSociety of Victoria and are designed to offer benchmarking and and bottle options, as well as a DIY-style wine tasting that allowsfeedback to the new generation of distillers. Classes will be judged guests to trial three wines (with optional matching canapés) in ain gin, whiskey, vodka, brandy, rum, liqueurs and alternative spirits. contemporary new wine lounge space.Eight trophies, including Australian Distiller of the Year will be Think combinations like 2013 Filius Chardonnay and house-madeawarded and winners announced during the Melbourne Food and duck ham cured with orange peel or 2013 Chardonnay and ShropshireWine Festival in March. blue cheese and 2013 Heytesbury Chardonnay and Iberico ham. The“We invite distilleries of all sizes, from boutique and artisan producers estate's restaurant - GT 100 - headed by the WA Good Food Guide'sdistilling small batches through to established, large volume spirits 2015 Chef of the Year Aaron Carr has also been fitted with a new layout,brands to enter their products” said Mark O’Sullivan, CEO of The making it “the ideal space for a relaxed, stylish dining experience”.Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria. TAKING IT TO THE NEXT LEVELA REAL PEARLER WHEN it comes to winery tourism, one progressive force inIT’S back! Pity so few wine drinkers today will register the significance Australian wine believes we can do better. A lot better. Theof the return to production of one of the all-time great Australian Crittenden family on the Mornington Peninsula has thrown out thewines, Barossa Pearl. They will be too young. To the Baby Boomer rulebook, if there ever was such a thing, and has reinvented thegeneration, however, it will smell - and taste - of history. The lightly cellar door with a stand-alone area devoted to one-on-one personalsprizty, white bubbly was created by Orlando in time for the 1956 service. It calls the space, the Crittenden Wine Centre.Melbourne Olympics and its success was immediate. Made in the Visitors, who can book on line, will be escorted to tables andimage of Germany’s “perlweins”, the original was sweet and grapey. hosted by an experienced wine professional through a tasting ofBarossa Pearl circa 2015, made by Jacob’s Creek (a brand operating Crittenden Estate wines.under Orlando Wines), retains a lot of the original’s features, including A selection of eight wine flights is available, each flightthe distinctive green label and skittle-shaped bottle. A cork now made up of five wines of 20ml pours, served in Austrianreplaces the old plastic cap. Jacob’s Creek chief winemaker Bernard crystal wine glasses. Tasting notes come via iPads (which can alsoHickin has employed three grapes to replicate the style, including be sent to your email address). “We want to make the customertwo high in floral intensity - riesling, semillon and muscat - and kept the hero,” says family patriarch, Garry Crittenden.the sugar count equally elevated. Apparently, it is a wine for today The service does come at a cost, around $10 per person,as well as yesterday. refundable upon purchase. 38 38 is the number of days this wine spends on its skins in fermentation. Most wines are just 8 or less. The extra 30 days of very slow fermentation increases the extraction and integration of skin tannins giving a greater depth of structure and lifting the savoury characteristics. IMPORTANT The practicalities and costs of this process dictated that only two tonnes of grapes be DAYS fermented, and that means just 1536 bottles. 38 DAYS 2012 vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. It will cellar very well but if you are looking at a slow cooked leg of hogget perhaps you shouldn’t wait. Send us an email and we will let you know where you can buy 38 DAYS. [email protected] March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsLONGVIEW LUXURY PARTY TIMETHERE is great new vineyard accommodation at Longview, outside THERE is still time to book - just - for North-East Victoria’sMacclesfield in the Adelaide Hills. Set on gently (and some not so ultimate gourmet party: Tastes of Rutherglen, which will begently) undulating slopes, Longview has established itself as one held on the weekend of March 7-8. Festival-goers can enjoythe most-awarded vineyards in the region since its first vintage matched food and wine combinations as each winery offers ain 2001. The range runs from the value-for-money Red Bucket signature dish by a regional chef, matched to the best wineswines to reserve shiraz wines with striking graffiti-style labels that of the region.are called The Piece. Longview, originally planted by the late TwoDogs lemonade pioneer Duncan MacGillivray, is owned and run by Visitors are invited to meet the winemakers and get behindbrothers Peter and Mark Saturno, members of an Adelaide family the scenes at some of Australia’s most famous family-ownedwith long-time hospitality industry roots. The brothers were keen for wineries as the festival includes information, music, food, winea change from their big city lifestyles in New York City and moved and fun. Tastes packs for wine drinkers are $50 and include anback to South Australia to take on the challenge of producing the official Tastes of Rutherglen wine glass plus two tickets (eachstyle of premium, cool-climate wines they love to drink. Aiming to redeemable for an entree and matched wine or an “activity” andbe the best in the region, they employed Yalumba wine guru Brian wine at the winery of choice), a bottle of water and souvenir carryWalsh as a consultant and talented Ben Glaetzer as their consultant bag. Each of the three shuttle routes are grouped by locationwinemaker. Lazy Longview Sundays attract sell-out crowds to sample with Route A comprising Chambers Rosewood, Pfeiffer Wines,the wares of chefs Stephanie Heaven and Louise Naughton, whose Cofield Wines, Valhalla Wines, All Saints Estate and St Leonards;Mediterranean-style platters can be enjoyed al fresco on the lawns, Route B featuring John Gehrig Wines, Morris Wines, Scionon the verandas, or inside in front of open fires. The platters change Vineyard, Jones Winery and Anderson and Route C Rutherglenseasonally and feature local produce when possible. The older- Estates, Stanton & Killeen, Campbells, Buller, Lake Moodemerestyle homestead, for use as one large residence or two separate and Warrabilla. Over both days a range of events will take placeapartments, has long been a popular spot for wine lovers to kick back at wineries, including wine dinners, master classes, dinnersfor a day or two and the recently opened Longview Vineyard Suites under the stars and live bands. For more information phonecomprise 12 king rooms that offer relaxed and stylish accommodation 1800 622 871 or visit www.winemakers.com.au.overlooking pinot noir vines. The suites all have private balconies -while a larger spa suite comes complete with a jacuzzi bath tub fortwo looking out at the vines through floor-to-ceiling windows. Eachsuite has a king bed, flat-screen TV, a self-contained kitchenette,en-suite bathroom, reverse cycle air-conditioning, free wi-fi andthe latest appliances. Gourmet breakfast provisions and wines areprovided to each guest and the cellar door and function centre arejust a short away, while the Three Brothers Arms and MacclesfieldHotel are just down the driveway. With other star local cellar doorslike Shaw+Smith, Nepenthe, Ashton Hills, K1 by Geoff Hardy, Pikeand Joyce, The Lane, Hahndorf Hill, Deviation Road and Chain ofPonds are all within a short drive, this is a perfect base for a weekendof vinous indulgence. Longview Vineyard, Pound Rd, Macclesfield,Adelaide Hills; phone (08) 8388 9694. The cellar door is open everyday 11am-5pm. www.longviewvineyard.com.au.14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

briefsCHANGING HANDS CELEBRATING A FAMILY AFFAIRTIMES are tough in the Australian wine industry. Look no further WHEN John Francis Brown founded the Brown Brothers winethan two of the country’s most high profile winemakers - Grant business, planting 4ha of grapes at Milawa in north-eastBurge Wines and Peter Lehmann Wines - that have now changed Victoria in 1885, he could never have imagined how it wouldhands. Both companies have their base in the Barossa Valley. be flourishing 125 years after the first bottles were released.Peter Lehmann Wines was sold by Hess Family Wine Estates, Today Brown Brothers has vineyards across Victoria, includinga company once considered its lifesaver, for $57 million. The the King Valley, Riverland and Heathcote, and owns the Tamarnew owner is Casella Family Brands, the Riverina-based maker Ridge, Pirie and Devil’s Corner labels in Tasmania. It producesbehind the mega successful yellowtail wines. The match has been well over a million cases of wine each year and exports aroundviewed as a perfect fit by some wine industry pundits and follows the world. Brown Brothers also believes it has more differentthe death of founder, Peter Lehmann, in 2013. The marriage of grape varieties - around 40 - in its many ranges than anyGrant Burge Wines with Accolade Wines is generally viewed a other wine producer in the world. It was making wines fromlittle differently. Grant Burge, a fifth-generation Barossa maker, the so-called “alternative variety” graciano half a century agoentered the wine industry as a daring young maker with partner and also features varieties, including sagrantino, tarrango,Ian Wilson in the late 1970s under the Krondorf label and endured montepulciano and nero d’avola, and is Australia’s largestdifficult times after being taken over by Mildara Blass in 1986. producer of prosecco. Brown Brothers recently celebrated its 125th birthday and the party also marked the opening Burge fought hard to become an independent winemaker again of the newly restored Milawa Barn, where the first winesunder Grant Burge Wines, calling his own shots. He and Accolade were made all those years ago and which is now a grandWines came to an agreement after a lengthy courting. functions venue. Today the Brown Brothers wines range from the reserve Patricia wines, named for the family matriarch, toCROSER BACK IN CONTROL popular styles like moscato and zibbibo. Work continues in the “kindergarten winery” on new styles and varieties. AlongNOTED Australian winemaker Brian Croser has bought back the with T’Gallant, Brown Brothers were the first producers infarm, well, the winery. In the 1980s, Petaluma in the Adelaide Australia to plant pinot gris/grigio and have been long-termHills was one of Australia’s great boutique producers, but a champions of unusual varieties, including mondeuse and2001 takeover by Lion Nathan led Croser, Petaluma’s founding crouchen. A 1974 graciano from a dusty old bottle lookedwinemaker and shareholder, to move to greener pastures and the absolutely superb. Today, the fourth generation of Browns,creation of the Tapanappa wine label. Katherine and Caroline Brown, are taking key roles in the company and organised the celebrations. Their father, Ross Privately, he fumed at losing Petaluma. Last year, upon learning Brown, spoke of how the company has always sought to bethat Lion Nathan was going to build a new Petaluma winery, he at the forefront of innovation and experimentation while at theput in a bid to secure the old one. It worked. Now, renamed same time continuing to be a real family business. “We areTapanappa, we can only presume he won’t let it fall from his - or constantly looking for what might be the next big thing, buthis family’s - grasp again. He has also persuaded early Petaluma you have to be careful - it can be hard to market varieties likewinemaker, the talented Con Moshos, to return to the fold. The say assyrtiko and mavrodaphne if there is not a story behindimpetus for the buy-back reportedly came late in 2014 when them,” said CEO Roland Wahlquist.Croser bought out his long-time French partners, Bollinger andthe Cazes family of Chateau Lynch-Bages. It is believed that hisFrench partners saw the wisdom in Tapanappa being guidedinto the future by one family, not three. And Croser has indeedstrong family backing from his wife, Ann, to his daughter Lucyand son-in-law Xavier Bizot (joint managers) and a second son-in-law, Sam Barlow (Tapanappa cellar door and IT). March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsWEATHER WOESHUNTER Valley winemakers are looking to a reduced 2015 cropfollowing the dumping of 34mm of rain and hail in mid-December.Northern parts of the Valley around Broke and Fordwich appearto have suffered the worst. Some producers reported losing their entire crop, while otherslike Andrew Margan at Margan Family Wines reported initial lossesof between five and 20 per cent. “The damaged fruit tends to justshrivel up and falls off,” he told ABC News back in December.“You’re left with a little bit less fruit, but that fruit can be even betterquality; it ripens a lot quicker because there’s less fruit to ripen.”DREAM DEBUT SWEET ‘HOME’ ALABAMAMICHAEL Hill-Smith and Martin Shaw of Shaw+Smith fame ANYONE visiting Tasmania who would rather spend their money(they launched the first quality mass market sauvignon blanc in on wine and food rather than a hotel room should check outAustralia and still make one of the benchmarks) enjoyed a dream Hobart’s Alabama Hotel, which has rapidly become a favouritedebut when they launched their first wines from the Tolpuddle with visiting winemakers on a budget. Rooms here start from $80vineyard last year. The 2012 Tolpuddle chardonnay and pinot noir a night and larger, more comfortable rooms cost $100. That’s aboth received rave reviews from influential media in Australia and flat rate, so it pays to book early before the Alabama gets bookedthe UK – and the wines sold out despite fairly hefty price tags. out, as it often does. In Liverpool Street, in the city centre, the“We could not have hoped for a better global reaction,” said Shaw Alabama reopened late in 2013 after being closed for a decade.at the launch of the second vintages. “The response has been The building was erected in the late 1830s but didn’t open as aphenomenal, but we are aware there is still a lot of progress to be hotel until 1867, while the art deco facade was probably addedmade. The vineyard is a special place that is rapidly becoming a in the 1930s. It describes itself as a “boutique budget hotel” fillingvery special place. We are working hard to improve the quality of the gap in the accommodation market between a backpackerthe fruit and that only means that the wines get better and better hostel and a chain hotel. There are 17 rooms, each different, styledover time. For us it is a parcel of land that has some remarkable with original artworks, vintage touches and very comfortablesimilarities to some of the great vineyards of Burgundy. We have beds. The retro-chic rooms are clean, comfortable and secure,no doubt that in time this Coal Valley vineyard will become one but don’t expect flat-screen TVs, iPod docks and fluffy robes. “Byof the great single vineyard estates in Australia.” keeping the layout as it is, we can keep our rates lower for guests and maintain our ‘boutique budget’ descriptor,” the owners say. Planted in 1988, the 20-ha Tolpuddle vineyard was purchased There is, however, fast and free wi-fi, a very comfortable loungeby Adelaide Hills-based Shaw+Smith three years ago and has and bar area, and helpful staff. The lounge bar, with a lovelylong been a source of Tasmanian fruit for some of the mainland’s balcony, serves quality beers, wines and spirits. It’s a great spothigh-profile labels. The 2013 wines display greater depth than for a pre-dinner drink. The setback is that there are no en-suitethe initial releases from 2012, a much cooler vintage, giving bathrooms. Alabama Hotel, Level 1, 72 Liverpool St, Hobart;them what Shaw believes will be added complexity, structure phone 0499 987 698 or www.alabamahobart.com.au.and ageing potential. I’ve reviewed the chardonnay but the ’13pinot noir ($75) is equally impressive with fragrance, structure,softness, sweetness, spice and perfect balance.16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

briefsNEW DRIVING FORCE TASTE OF THE YARRAHUNTER Valley icon Brokenwood Wines has a new senior MAC FORBES, one of the Yarra Valley’s most innovativewinemaker at the helm, with Stuart Hordern taking over following winemakers, has opened a new tasting facility in the heart ofSimon Steele’s decision to return to Victoria. Steele joined Healesville. “Given we don’t have a cellar door at the winery weBrokenwood towards the end of 2011 but returned to Victoria decided to open Graceburn to be able to share this personalto take up the role of winemaker at Medhurst Wines in the Yarra experience with those who enjoy our wines,” Forbes said.Valley after incumbent Matt Steel departed for California. Hordern “Graceburn is the Mac Forbes tasting room but hopefully offers ais a Hunter Valley local who cut his teeth at his family vineyard. lot more than a standard cellar door. We are very excited to offerHe joined Brokenwood in 2009 as assistant winemaker from a range of back vintage wines, an amazing selection of specialityTyrrell’s. Chief winemaker Iain Riggs said: “The future quality of teas (with many parallels to our own wines) and a small list ofBrokenwood wine is in good hands with Stuart. He’s affable yet ‘friends’ wines that come from persons that have been connectedconscientious about every aspect of quality wine from grape with our journey to date.growing through to bottling. We welcome his appointment.” Open Sunday-Wednesday from 11am-7pm and Thursday- Saturday 11am-9pm, the Graceburn tasting room is at 11a Green St, Healesville.ONE TO REMEMBERAIRPORT hotels are, by their very definition, expensive - andwine lovers and winemakers tend to spend a lot of time in themen-route to other regions or conferences. That’s what makesthe unprepossessing Ibis Budget Melbourne Airport a propertyworth having in your little black book. It is within the airportprecinct, unlike many impostors that can be several kilometresaway and end up costing hefty taxi fees to get there and back,but comes without a big price tag. Just a short stroll alongwell-marked pathways from both the Melbourne domestic andinternational terminals, rooms start from around $120 a night.For that you get a very good double bed (and sometimes anadditional bunk bed), a spacious air-conditioned room witha decent shower, wash basin and toilet, desk, a TV, alarmclock and even a window that opens to let in air. The showerand toilet are compact but perfectly adequate for one or twonights. There are vending machines should you be hungry orthirsty, a cafe that serves breakfast, and helpful desk staff. Wi-fi,unfortunately, incurs a charge. There are internet facilities in thelobby and an on-site laundry. Ibis Budget Melbourne Airport,12 Caldwell Drive, Melbourne Airport; phone (03) 8336 1811or www.ibisbudget.com. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefs HOMEWARD BOUND ONE of Australia’s more idiosyncratic - certainly charismatic - winemakers has left these shores for New Zealand. Michael Glover, long-time winemaker at Bannockburn Vineyards, is going home. “It has been a wonderful experience working at Bannockburn and a great privilege to have been allowed to take fruit from some of Australia’s best vineyards in directions that have been creative and thought-provoking,” said Glover on his departure. “The decision to leave has been a terribly hard one to make but if I don’t do it now, I may never get back home, and it is something I have always had a desire to do.” Glover makes his way to Woollaston Estate in Nelson on the South Island. No Bannockburn replacement has been named.HOMEY TOUCH PINOT POWERTHE CRITTENDEN family, among the pioneering winemakers on IT FELL to a tiny Tasmanian wine producer many people will notthe Mornington Peninsula, have turned their former home at the have heard of to host an intriguing tasting of pinot noir datingCrittenden Estate vineyard into a tasting and wine appreciation back 20 years. As the wine industry is a relatively new one - andvenue. Visitors are offered seating and asked which varieties many of the Tasmanian vineyards are still young - there havethey would like to try before being guided through their choices been precious few opportunities for vertical tastings such aseither with written notes or electronic tablets. Winemaker the one Milford Vineyard in the Coal River Valley conductedRollo Crittenden says the aim is to give guests the chance to recently. Milford comprises 1.2ha, but when it was planted 30try something new and to learn about different varieties. The years ago it was the third-largest vineyard in the region. TheCrittendens make more than two-dozen wines, including pinot vines, all pinot noir, are on a 150-ha grazing property that hasnoir and chardonnay, as well as Italian and Spanish varieties been in the family of part owner Charlie Lewis since 1830.under the Pinocchio and Los Hermanos labels. There is also a Lewis and his wife Robyn, who also run the www.visitvineyards.new on-site winery ready for the 2015 vintage. Crittenden Wine com website, operate the vineyard in partnership with severalCentre is at Crittenden Estate, 25 Harrisons Rd, Dromana; phone passionate friends. Since the first vintage in 1992 (it took(03) 5981 8322. www.crittendenwines.com.au. the partners eight years to get up and running), the wines have always been made at what is now Frogmore Creek, first by Andrew Hood and then by Alain Rousseau and, briefly, Nick Glaetzer. Lewis and his partners, fans of aged wines, have always believed that Tasmanian pinots age better than those from other regions, so this tasting was both a 30th birthday celebration and an exercise in self-belief. Ironically there was a lot of debate before the vineyard was planted as to whether pinot noir or cabernet sauvignon would do best. “Fortunately, we chose the right one,” Lewis said. The wines were tasted from youngest to oldest and included the 1996 that won gold at the Royal Hobart Wine Show. No pinot noir was made in 2012, when the fruit was used for a sparkling wine, or in 2002 and 2003 when the bird netting failed. “It is our belief that while Tasmanian pinot noir is delicious while young, much of it is drunk far too early,” said Lewis. “Many pinots from New Zealand, Oregon and even Victoria can fall apart after a few years, so we are pleased with the longevity of our wines.” There were several standouts in the tasting, but also a remarkable degree of consistency given the Tasmanian climate. The wines were generally medium-bodied with two to three year-old oak playing a supporting role and never intruding. Some had slight hints of mint and on the whole were slicker welterweight than mainland light heavyweight. Among the older wines, the 2007, 2005, 1998 and 1992 shone brightest.18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

briefsNEW VISION FOR ‘HOLY LAND’MIKE ZEKULICHTHE history of one of Western Australia’s most unusual wine the importance of wine in Biblical history, grapevines wereprojects has taken a new turn - from a founding group of obviously going to be a part of any agricultural venture.Americans searching the world for a place to base theirreligious order, to ownership by a member of one of the state’s Despite their lack of knowledge they planted five varieties -best-known pioneering families. riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz - over 9ha and achieved their first vintage in 1998. But it proved Called Zarephath and established in the remote bush 50km a difficult start, with kangaroos using the vineyard like a freeway.north east of Albany and 40km east of Mt Barker in the eastPorongurup, it became home to a small group of charismatic Recognition of the quality of the fruit and wine came early inAmericans belonging to a religious order called The Christ the property’s history. For example, certificates of merit andCircle from the Roman Catholic Benedictine community. It has gold and silver medals were won at the French Expositionnow been purchased by Ian Barrett- Lennard, whose family Universelle in 1900, the Glasgow International Exhibition inwas among the first settlers to the Swan River colony, and his 1901, the Franco-British Exhibition in 1908, and the Malaypartner Rosie Singer. Borneo Exhibition in 1922. Under bizarre and difficult circumstances, the Americans, For the new owners, entry into the wine industry is a first, butfrom California and who had pooled their resources, initially Barrett-Lennard’s family has had vast Swan Valley interests inresettled in Austria because they believed the political climate wine and fresh table grapes, and still does today although inmight be more conducive to their aims. But it did not work out a more modest way.and after two years they bought a boat and sailed to Israel.Though in the Holy Land, it was again not what they wanted and Barrett-Lennard, a mechanical engineer, is a sixth-generationonce more they turned to the open seas, sailing for the Pacific. descendant. On the way, after a four-month journey, they stopped at Albany He plans to expand Zarephath employing other agriculturaland ran straight into trouble. Their 30m boat was seized in a expertise developed by the family elsewhere in the state,complicated legal wrangle with an Israeli over the vessel’s particularly in stock production to use up spare land.ownership. Resolution took four years, with criminal chargesbeing dropped but the group was unable to take civil action in As well, some of the property buildings will be refurbishedIsrael because they could not get a visa to enter the country. to include a cafe to attract visitors. In April 1994 they purchased their 40ha WA property “We are off the beaten track so we have to turn the placewhere at last the wanderers could work the land and, given into a feature destination to make it worthwhile for people to visit,” he said. “We are excited about the challenges ahead. Our long term plan is for my winemaker son Andrew to take over.” March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 19

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneBRITS LAP UP KIWI WINE CHANGES AT PERNOD RICARD NZNEW Zealand has emerged recently as the second biggestsupplier to the UK of wines in the over £7 ($A13.6) per bottle FABIAN Partigliani, an Australiancategory. In this premium price segment, New Zealand has who was appointed managingovertaken Australia and now sits directly behind France. New director of Pernod Ricard NZ inZealand produces only 1 per cent of the world’s wine, but now 2007, resigned recently for “purelysells nearly one in five bottles in the UK over-£7 market. The personal reasons”. Partigliani sayscountry’s wine exports currently stand at $NZ1.33 billion, up he and his wife have been living and$NZ1 billion in the past decade. working away from home for over 20 years in the UK, Spain, Argentina,FROM THE BAROSSA TO AUCKLAND Italy and New Zealand, and “our wish now is to stop travelling and give ourSAM Glaetzer, a scion of the famous Barossa Valley winemaking children stability”.family, is the new managing director of Constellation Brands NZ, Pernod Ricard’s operations in NZbased in Auckland. Constellation’s NZ brands include Nobilo, have been split into two businessesSelaks, Kim Crawford and Monkey Bay. Glaetzer rose through that were previously managed as one under Partigliani. Winethe ranks at Treasury Wine Estates, most recently overseeing production and exports are the responsibility of production directorits New Zealand production and brands, including Matua. Now, Jo-Anna Partridge and chief winemaker Patrick Materman, andfollowing the retirement of Constellation’s previous NZ head, Joe general manager Craig Langley now oversees domestic sales andStanton, Glaetzer is embarking on “a comprehensive growth marketing. During his seven-year spell in New Zealand, Partiglianistrategy for vineyards and winery expansion”, while also driving steered the sale of company-owned vineyards and wineries inthe company’s sales and marketing across New Zealand and Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay, the sale of such brands as CorbansAustralia. Glaetzer is a great fan of pinot noir. Why? “Because it and Lindauer, and the replacement globally of the long-establishedis challenging from vineyard to winery, yet capable of expressing Montana brand by Brancott Estate.its origins so beautifully.”THE INNOVATOR WOOLWORTHS BUYS MARLBOROUGH WINERYONE of the key pioneers of the modern NZ wine industry, AlexCorban was production manager at the country’s then largest A DECADE ago, Isabel Estate was riding high after scoopingwinery, Corbans, from 1952 to 1976. New Zealand’s first a series of major accolades in the UK for its sauvignon blanc.winemaker to adopt such technical wizardry as stainless steel However, the quality of the wine declined and last July this long-tanks and refrigeration, he was also the first chairman of the Wine established producer slid into receivership. In November it wasInstitute from 1975 to 1979. Corban - a grandson of the winery’s snapped up by Woolworths.founder, “A.A” (Assid Abraham) Corban - died towards the end Michael and Robyn Tiller planted their first vines at Renwick inof last year, aged 89. The first Kiwi to gain a Diploma in Oenology 1982 and won a gold medal for their first 1994 vintage pinot noir.from Roseworthy College, South Australia, he started work at In mid-2014, the Tillers invited investors to purchase shares to helpthe family winery in 1949. There soon followed an impressive expand the business. However, the receiver’s report, released inseries of winemaking “firsts” from Corbans’ cellars at Henderson, September, revealed Isabel Estate had accumulated debts of overin west Auckland. At the first Easter Show Wine Competition in $NZ12.4 million ($A11.7 million). The key assets sold included the1953, the trophy for champion wine was awarded to Corbans winery and cellar door, a 36ha estate vineyard in the heart of theSauternes. Stainless steel tanks made their NZ wine industry Wairau Valley and the Isabel Estate brand. This is the first timedebut in 1958 at Corbans. Then the company’s Dry White 1962 a supermarket chain has invested in the NZ wine industry. Thewas pressure-fermented at cool temperatures - another first. acquisition by Woolworths, via its subsidiary Pinnacle Drinks, wasCorbans Riverlea Riesling 1965, according to Alex Corban, designed to expand Pinnacle’s opportunities in the Australian winewas the country’s first white wine of that era made entirely from market, and Woolworths also owns the Countdown, SuperValueclassic European varieties, rather than wholly or partly from and Fresh Choice grocery chains in NZ.hybrids. Two years earlier, Corbans Palomino Flor Sherry was The Isabel Estate operation will be overseen by Corey Ryan, ofserved to Queen Elizabeth II. In retirement, Alex Corban lived in Dorrien Estate Winery (in South Australia’s Barossa Valley), alsoHawke’s Bay, where his son, Alwyn, co-founded the Ngatarawa owned by Woolworths. Ryan was previously senior winemaker atwinery in 1981. Villa Maria, based in Auckland, for seven years.20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS michael cooperBUYING INTO OWNERSHIP ISSUESHOW IMPORTANT is the owner in terms of the size of their shareholdings. arrival in NZ and his much later entry intounderstanding a winery? The answer may The issue of winery ownership can commercial winemaking.seem blindingly obvious, but frequentlyit’s the winemaker or marketing staff who become even more sensitive when Chinese investors have lately investedare in the public arena, fronting tastings it involves overseas investors, often heavily in NZ’s vineyard land. Lion NZ, aand telling brand stories, while the owner emotively dubbed ‘foreign’ investors. At subsidiary of Japanese brewing giant Kirinis nowhere to be seen. Winemakers come a retailer function I attended recently, a last year purchased Morton Estate. Trinityand go, and if they have a big scrap with consumer enthused about a wine being Hill, in Hawke’s Bay, and Martinboroughthe owner, we all know what happens next... tasted on the grounds that “it’s a good, Vineyard, in the Wairarapa, have been affordable New Zealand red, rather than snapped up by wealthy Americans. Many owners simply don’t want the something imported”. When I pointed outlimelight. They are obviously the most “Is there a place for the small producerimportant person in any winery becauseif someone doesn’t put their money on The counter-argument is that overseas investmentthe line, nothing happens. The owner of a has played a pivotal role in expanding the NZwell-known NZ winery told me that he went wine industry.hunting shortly before a famous Englishwine writer was scheduled to visit, leaving that although the wine was made in NZ, any more?” pondered Simon Clark, ofhis marketing manager to play host. the wine company was based in Europe Clark Estate in the Awatere Valley, after which is where the profits would flow, the the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival. These thoughts were triggered recently retailer whispered: “That will probably kill “People coming to the festival expect to bewhen I asked a small but acclaimed NZ the sales”. able to find the brands they know and love.producer for details about its majority owner But so often it is the smaller companiesso I could bring him to life for readers of a The counter-argument is that overseas that make the whole experience one towinery profile. He is a Kiwi, lives overseas investment has played a pivotal role in remember because the punters comeand is keen to maintain a strong relationship expanding the NZ wine industry, creating away having ‘found’ something special.with the region of his birth. But he is also “a thousands of jobs. Several of the country’s Would the magic still be there if theseprivate person”, so the winery would offer largest wine companies - Constellation NZ boutique brands didn’t exist?”no further information. (Kim Crawford, Nobilo, Selaks) and Pernod Ricard NZ (Brancott Estate, Stoneleigh, Small wineries - together with boutique I once asked Hugh Johnson, the world’s Church Road) - are overseas owned. NZ’s brands created by big companies - addbiggest-selling wine author, how he came most famous wine producer, Cloudy Bay, colour and depth to the NZ wine scene.to be such a great wine writer. “Always tell is part of the LVMH luxury goods empire. According to New Zealand Winegrowers,a story,” he replied. Johnson is no fan of just 35 per cent of the country’s grapethose who pen long lists of tasting notes It can be easy to criticise the contribution harvest in 2013 (slightly more in 2014) was- especially those who use the 100-point of overseas owners. Some seem to have processed by overseas-controlled wineries.scale which he abhors - without trying to only a superficial knowledge of their NZplace the wines within their geographical holdings. One recently released a new And in numerical terms, the industry isand cultural contexts. range of wines, claiming on the back still dominated by local interests. Several labels that the Croatian founder sold of the largest wine companies - Delegat’s/ A quick Google search eventually gave his first wines nearly 30 years earlier Oyster Bay, Villa Maria, Giesen, Yealands,me the background information I wanted than history has recorded. How did that Sileni, Saint Clair - are still wholly orabout the ‘mystery’ winery owner. And happen? The winery, for several decades mostly in NZ hands, along with manyanyone keen to know exactly who owns family-run, is now part of an international middle-sized wineries (Babich, Missionwhat in the wine industry only needs to go to wine conglomerate and the marketing and Seifried) and the vast majority of thethe website of the New Zealand Companies staff mixed up the dates of the founder’s 600-plus small producers.Office, search the register of companies,and use the options menu to discover theidentity of each winery’s shareholders and March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 21

europeanreport WORDS sally easton MW SHIFTING FORTUNESEUROPE’S position as the world’s leading Scandinavian countries. showing a consistent shift in the balance ofheartland of wine production is slowly and Meanwhile the new world countries of production, although Russia has declared itssteadily being eroded as new world and other intention to increase vineyards by 60,000ha incountries continue their long term embrace of Argentina, Australia, Chile, South Africa the next decade, in part to offset the country’swine culture. Data from the latest reports from and the US increased their vineyard area reliance on imported wines. Nonetheless, asthe OIV, an intergovernmental organisation by 98,000ha, or 9 per cent. The order of Europe’s vineyard retrenchment takes hold,which reaches international agreements magnitude is clearly a bit different, but from current patterns suggest it won’t be too manyand regulation on scientific and technical a small base new world countries have years before its share of global productionaspects of grape growing and winemaking, been making steady inroads into the world falls below 50 per cent.give a snapshot of the state of the world’s wine map.viticultural industry. Such retrenchment in the largely mature Evidently, whatever happens in the European markets of Europe to reduce overall That picture is one of Europe’s declining wine industry still has global implications. But overproduction does not mean the regionproduction and largely declining consumption even more than that, whatever happens in lacks innovation, although sometimeswhile that of the new world and, notably the top three global producing countries innovation seems to move slowly, somewhatChina, is on the increase. of France, Italy and Spain, is important. akin to a new film or television star “bursting Together, these three countries typically onto the scene” after years, if not decades of hard, relatively unnoticed, graft. The LoireSuch retrenchment in the largely mature markets of valley in France is one such region that hasEurope to reduce overall overproduction does not mean recently been breaking out of its historicalthe region lacks innovation. state, in a small, but important, way. Just in the 14 short years, in viticultural terms, account for more than 70 per cent of Europe’s In France a region’s appellation systemsince the turn of the millennium, Europe’s total production and around half of all global often includes a quality hierarchy such asshare of world wine production has fallen production. And together, compared to that exemplified in Burgundy. Here the qualityfrom nearly 70 per cent to about 55 per cent. 2000, these countries made 25mhl less of pyramid goes from regional appellationsIn that time the total size of global production wine in 2013. That’s a decline of more than (Bourgogne rouge and blanc), to communal,has been at about the same level, so this is a 15 per cent, and 25mhl is twice the annual or village, appellations (Macon, Chablis,significant shift. production of Australia. By contrast the new Beaune, Gevrey-Chambertin), to premier world countries made 15mhl more in 2013 cru appellations (Gevrey-Chambertin Les Declining production is reflected in a smaller compared to 2000. That’s an increase of more Cazetiers, Chablis Fourchaume) and finallyshare of the world’s vineyards. In 2000, there than 25 per cent. to grand cru appellations (Chablis Les Clos,were 7.885 million hectares (mha) worldwide. Charmes-Chambertin).In 2013, there are 7.519mha under vine, When China is included in new worldwhich is a modest 5 per cent drop in the countries, that country has its own order of Until recently, Loire valley appellations,global vineyard. But European vineyards magnitude. In 2000, China had 300,000ha all 70-odd of them, represented a single-have dropped by 13 per cent, or a sizeable of vineyards. The figure now stands at layered, egalitarian system of appellations,651,000ha. Part of this drop in vineyard has 560,000ha. In that period China doubled i.e. no quality hierarchy. This is somewhatbeen because of European Union subsidies its production from 6 to 12mhl. It is now the understandable at first glance: differentto uproot vineyards as part of a concerted seventh largest producing country in the grape varieties are grown in different partsplan to bring overproduction back into line world, snapping at the heels of Australia, in of the Loire, so a distinction is identifiable onwith consumption. Consumption has also sixth spot. With China included, new world that basis. Similarly a distinction has alwaysbeen declining in traditional parts of Europe, share has increased from 17 per cent to 23 been made because some appellationsadded to which the pattern of consumption per cent. These key changes have meant that make only dry wines, others only sweethas been changing as more new world wine is Europe’s share of the global vineyard fell from wines, others nearly only red wines.consumed, especially in non-wine-producing 62 per cent in 2000 to 56 per cent in 2013.European countries such as the UK and But in 2011, Muscadet introduced the These are the main places of change, region’s first communal appellations, all coming from within the Muscadet de Sevre et Maine appellation. Each of the three so far regulated originate on specific terroir,22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

as befits the model of French appellations. VISIT US.Clisson is on granite. Gorges is on gabbro EXPERIENCE THEand quartz. Le Pallet is on gneiss and gabbro.The wines couldn’t be any more different from WHOLE RANGE.Muscadet if they tried. They are made forageing; indeed the rules specify minimum www.gartelmann.com.auageing on lees, around 24 months, before 701 Lovedale Road, Lovedalethey qualify for their cru appellation. They Hunter Valley, NSW 2320, Australiaare typically rich and concentrated, arguablyerring to a white Burgundian style. A little further along the Loire valley, in Anjou,lays the quintessential sweet wine appellationof Coteaux du Layon. Here a premier cruappellation - Coteaux du Layon Premier CruChaume - and a grand cru appellation -Quartsde Chaume - have been crafted from patchesof ground which have long produced winesunofficially regarded as having the potentialto make superior sweet wines, usually frombotrytis infected chenin blanc bunches.Indeed, Quarts de Chaume was already itsown appellation back in 1954. Now, it is agrand cru appellation. As one would expect,increasingly tight production regulations areimposed as one goes up the hierarchy. At the far eastern end of the Loire valley,in Sancerre territory, a qualitative hierarchycontinues to be resisted. Such a thing hasbeen discussed by producers over thedecades and so far no agreement has beenreached. Instead an evolving picture of “lieuxdits”, or named vineyards, is increasinglyappearing on labels in conjunction with theSancerre appellation name. Again, these arevineyard parcels which are known to producewines of particular quality and style. Famousnames here include: Chene Marchand in thevillage of Bue, and le Cul de Beaujeu and laCote des Monts Damnes, both in Chavignol.So the label shows appellation Sancerre plusvineyard name. Such specificity, based on something asunique as the ground in which the grapes aregrown - single vineyard sites - is nothing newin France but it has also become somethingAustralian producers are increasinglyfocusing on as a point of differentiation. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetutor WORDS clive hartley JURASSIC GEMS IN SOME ways Jura is a lot like many of our misreported and misunderstood - I hope I’ve Savagnin has been DNA tested andsmaller Australian wine regions. Tiny in size got it right! Vin jaune has special dispensation identified as the grape traminer, which is theand accounting for a mere 0.2 per cent of from the EU to be bottled in a special 620ml non-aromatic grape akin to gewurztraminer.French production, it grows a wide range of Clavelin bottle, romantically, they say, that this According to Lorch, records show that itwine styles - uncommon for a French wine is the amount of wine that remains from a litre has been grown in the Jura since the 13thregion and more akin to Australia. At a recent after the angels get their share. A remarkable or maybe 14th centuries and may haveSydney tasting, hosted by visiting Jura expert wine when you remember we are talking about come originally from Spain, as the regionWink Lorch, I tasted an assortment of wines a table white wine and not a fortified wine. of Franche-Comte (the department whereand while five grape varieties dominate Jura is located) was ruled by the King ofJura plantings (savagnin and chardonnay During its long years in old oak barrels the Spain. The grapes are thick skinned and lateare the whites, and poulsard, pinot noir and wine is not topped up and the yeast veil comes ripening. Savagnin, you will remember, wastrousseau are the reds) it was the divergence and goes with the seasons. Winemakers can mistakenly sold by the CSIRO to growers inof styles that was most remarkable. Ranging inoculate or seed the barrels, or let nature Australia as the Spanish grape albarino. Thisfrom a crisp Cremant through to Burgundian- take its course. Cellar conditions vary, with was unearthed by the French ampelographerinfluenced chardonnay, as well as purposely- some producers storing them underground Jean-Michel Boursiquot when he was visitingoxidative whites and wines matured partially and others in their lofts. An agreed key Australia. Since the shock announcement inor fully under yeast flor. Rosé, a light pinot factor is to keep the wine well ventilated. 2009 growers have got use to selling savagninnoir as well as a tannic red was also served, Throughout this time the local authorities test or have grafted over their vines and one ornot to mention a ‘sticky’, or to give it its proper the wine, monitoring the levels of acetic acid two producers have played at making a vinname a vin de paille. Throw in the fact that and acetaldehyde. The similarities to flor/fino jaune style. sherry abound and similar yeast strains areIn 2012 Christies in Geneva auctioned off a 1774 bottle that had been kept by thesame family for eight generations.the Jura has a good spattering of ‘natural’, found in a barrel of vin jaune. However, there Although classified as a white wine, vinorganic and biodynamic producers then it are some key differences. Fino is a blend of jaune should be served close to roomdoes remind you of the diversity you see in a different years and a product of the Solera temperature, that’s a French room not annew world wine region. system. Vin jaune is not blended but the Australian summer room temperature. The product of one year, it is also not fortified and wine should be decanted and opened The Jura region is located east of Burgundy generally sits between 13 and 15 per cent well in advance. It is often described as aheading towards the border with Switzerland. alcohol. I’m certain that the savagnin grape gastronomic wine, one that needs food toAlong with neighbouring Savoie, it could be possesses more character than the Spanish be appreciated. One classic match is withregarded as one of the least internationally palomino grape as the raw material. Finally, the the yellow-skinned Bresse chicken whichrecognised wine regions in France, but perhaps climate is vastly different; Jura is considerably is cooked with vin jaune and fresh morels.Corsica might get the guernsey for that. Jura cooler than Andalucia. Drinking it with Comte cheese is also ais where we get the name ‘Jurassic’ and is a traditional pairing.hint to the age of the mountains in the region. Acetaldehyde or ethanal, as it is sometimes called, forms when ethanol reacts with Vin jaune has incredible longevity. In The most distinctive wine from Jura is vin oxygen. It can also be created by the flor itself. 2012 Christies in Geneva auctioned offjaune, translated it means “yellow wine”, and The flor feeds off the sugar initially and when a 1774 bottle that had been kept by thenot surprising for France it is strictly controlled that is exhausted it moves on to the alcohol. same family for eight generations in theirby law. According to Lorch’s excellent book This gives the wine a nutty, saline flavour. cellar in Arbois, and a similar one had beenJura Wine, crowd funded and published by When it is bottled a compound called sotolon tasted a mere 10 years earlier and wasWine Travel Media in 2014, it must be made increases which produces a spice aroma in said to be of excellent quality. There is onefrom 100 per cent savagnin grapes and be the aged wine. The smell of fenugreek is often Jura producer that will label and sell aaged for at least five years under a layer of related to sotolon. On the palate vin jaune is bottle from your birth year dating backyeast. It cannot be bottled until December of dry but richer and more powerful than any fino to 1898, which only Japanese residentthe following year and not sold before January sherry. They display herbal, mineral and nutty Ms Misawo Okawa could request - as the1, which is now the 7th year after the harvest. flavours depending on the age. world’s oldest person.Lorch explained that these rules are widely24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

162 Hamilton Road [email protected] www.mahurangiriver.co.nz p: +64 9 425 0306 5 Stars, March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 25

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING PACIFIC PARADISEYOU won’t see the remnants of prehistoric No more than 400 visitors are allowed on seafood linguine. Shead is a wine buff so thespecies such as iguanas or the world’s only Lord Howe at any one time and the lack wine list is as top quality as the food. Maketropical penguin. Yet it’s not too much of a of crowds makes it easy to adapt to the sure that you book for dinner even if you stay atstretch to describe Lord Howe Island as an island’s glacial pace of life. Accommodation Arajilla. There’s only one cafe “in town” (a smallAustralian Galapagos. Sir David Attenborough is varied and ranges from basic holiday settlement on a side road that also included acertainly thinks so and visited the World apartment rentals through family-friendly general store, post office and community hall).Heritage-listed island in the late ’90s to film resorts such as the fabled Pinetrees Lodge, There’s no pub, either, so visitors often eat outthe quirky behaviour of the island’s providence which has been welcoming guests since the at a different lodge or resort every night.petrel colony. “Over 90 per cent of our visitors 1900s, and retreat-style boutique propertiesare environmentally-minded,” revealed with beauty and wellness treatments. I Chef Dennis Tierney is a sushi expert andthe skipper of our glass-bottomed boat as stayed at Arajilla Retreat, which was packed you can even bring back your catch of the daywe peered at the spangled emperors and with couples of all ages, as much for its for him to prepare for dinner. Fancy a gourmetdouble-header wrasse circling the coral reef proximity to Old Settlement Beach as for its picnic on a secluded beach? No problem,at Erscott’s Hole. ‘secret garden’ setting under a rainforest either. All of the retreat’s bread is made on the canopy of banyan trees and kentia palms. premises and goes very well with the locally- Named the most beautiful island in the grown veggies and pasture fed meats.Pacific by National Geographic magazine, Owned by Bill Shead, a former SydneyWorld Heritage-listed Lord Howe lies about lawyer and sailor who visited Lord Howe for When you are not in the mood to finish off a700km north-east of Sydney. There’s a over 20 years before deciding the island’s bottle, Pinetrees has a “cork it” policy, where unfinished bottles are returned to the bar andLord Howe’s hiking trails, coastline and mountains offer delivered back to your table for the next meal.great walks for all ages and fitness levels. The Pinetrees restaurant is one of the oldestpalpable Jurassic Park, lost world air as the laidback lifestyle suited him, the atmosphere in Australia and the current chef is Alasdairplane touches down and not only because of is whisper-quiet except at 6.30am when Nicolson, ex- Sydney’s Grand National. Asthe sheer cliffs and mist-shrouded plateaus. A the pied currawongs crank up their daily at Arajilla, breakfast is the whole nine yards,rocky outcrop measuring only 11km by 2.8km, dawn chorus. Shead was waiting for me at gourmet picnic baskets are a major treatthe island was created by a huge volcanic the airport and managed to pack in a lot of and you can bring freshly-caught fish backeruption over seven million years ago. There’s information in the short drive to the retreat. for the kitchen brigade to dish up for dinner.a practical reason for knowing this fact, too. “You won’t run out of things to do,” he The kingfish is the highlight of the dailyYour mobile won’t work. warned, “but you can take it easy if you menus, served as sashimi or in expertly want to.” I opted for a bit of both, anchored prepared mains like olive-crusted kingfish More than 60 per cent of Lord Howe is by Ayurvedic massages and yoga sessions with soft polenta or herb-marinated withcovered by kentia palm forest, an endemic conducted in the very chic spa housed in an lemon preserve pilaf.species once known as the world’s most environmentally-built yurt.popular indoor plant. A single road links one The view from the dining room at Capellaend of Lord Howe to the other and the few Greeting fellow guests became the Lodge, Lord Howe’s ritziest bolthole, shouldcars you pass stick to the 25km/h speed rule as everyone succumbed to holiday have a separate World Heritage listing.limit. Discovered in 1788 by the crew of HMS mode - and never stopped eating. The The wine list is the most extensive of allSupply, en-route from Botany Bay to Norfolk conservatory-style lounge and restaurant the island’s resorts and listings range fromIsland with a cargo of convicts, Lord Howe features Buddhist statues and a riot of Henschke Sauvignon Blanc Semillon towas uninhabited and remained so until 1833 decorator colours. A relaxed backdrop to Chain of Ponds Shiraz The Ledge withwhen it was settled by a trio of sailors from the buffet breakfasts of fresh fruit, pastries several available by the glass.New Zealand and their Polynesian wives. and fully-cooked extravaganzas for anyoneMore settlers arrived to lead a hard-scrabble who wants to “set themselves up for the day”. Capella Lodge is part of the Baillie Lodgeslife selling provisions to passing whaling collection which also includes Southern Oceanvessels, mainly American adventurers and Lunches and dinners offer more than enough Lodge on Kangaroo Island and Longitude 131sailors jumping ship. “to keep you going”, too, from succulent at Uluru. Chef Peter Smit has worked at other vegetarian risottos to duck breast curries and iconic lodges such as Wharekauhau Country Estate in New Zealand and El Questro in the Kimberley and works wonders with the fresh regional produce in dishes from duck confit,26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

DWPAR14437truffled pommes puree and broad beans www.parous.com.auto island bass grouper, chickpea pottageand shaved prosciutto. Just the thing after asession at the Capella Spa or any other activityfor that matter. Fortunately, it’s easy to work off the excesscalories. Lord Howe’s hiking trails, coastlineand mountains offer great walks for all agesand fitness levels, culminating in the eight-hourtrek to the 875m-high summit of Mount Gower.Be warned, though, the climb is not for thefaint-hearted and National Park rules mandateescorted trips only. Twitchers, or birders as the Americans morekindly call them, are much in evidence on LordHowe. As Sir David discovered, the islandis a bird watcher’s heaven. More than 180species have been sighted, including one ofthe world’s rarest avians - the Lord Howe WoodHen. With over 500,000 birds nesting on LordHowe from masked boobies through muttonbirds and fat-footed shearwaters, locals rightlyboast that they live in one of the world’s greatsea bird habitats. Ocean currents well up from a depth of3000m to meet a land shelf about 8km off theisland. The result? Lord Howe is also a world-famous game fishing area for marlin, yellowfintuna, wahoo and kingfish. To be honest, I could get seasick in apuddle, so contented myself with twovoyages in the lagoon in glass-bottomboats and visiting Ned’s Beach, where giantkingfish lurk in the shallow waters to be hand-fed by tourists. Other visitors played a roundon the island’s only nine-hole golf course,headed for one of the many snorkellingand scuba-diving hot spots or went surfingat Blinky’s Beach. Yet the glass-bottomedboat trip out to Comet’s Hole wasn’t withoutdrama when a brief, violent squall blew up.It departed as quickly as it came to returnthe view to postcard perfection. “Peoplesay that Lord Howe is the last real paradiseon earth,” said one of the crew members.“I dunno. But it’s certainly got to be in therunning.” It most certainly is.

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON IN THE BAROSSA VALLEYOCTOGENARIAN French oenophile board’s president, Ian Seppelt, was in pleased, that there was only one wineAndre Simon spent about a week of his the chair, supported by most of the VIPs served with each course. Unfortunately,visit to Australia in South Australia at of the various organisations connected we don’t know what Simon thought ofthe end of January 1964, in typical SA with the Australian wine industry. (The the wines.summer heat. On January 28, after a Highway Inn still exists, but its currentquiet morning in an apparently unplanned all-day menu looks far inferior to the On the next morning, January 29, Sidvisit to the public library and then the dinner menu I remember from the 1950s Gramp, with Simon and Gibson, set outAustralian Wine Research Institute, Simon and ’60s, when it was one of the places for the Barossa. They headed for Orlando,and his host, Victor Gibson, attended a you would visit for the big night out.) the Gramp headquarters at Rowlandlunch at the South Australian Hotel. This The account of this meal, preserved in Flat, taking one-and-a-quarter hours towas arranged by the Bacchus Club, the Wine and Food Society records held cover the 60km (38 miles). After visitingSouth Australia’s substitute for a branch in the State Library of South Australia, the winery the two men met severalof the Wine and Food Society of Australia. tells us only of the wine, not the food. members of the Gramp family, including(The club had been established in 1939, The first wine served was 1955 Seppelt Gramp’s father, Fred, the Orlando bossonly three years after Australia’s first Wine Great Western Imperial Reserve (Brut) at the time. (Earlier, in Melbourne at aand Food Society branch was set up, in Pinot Blanc, regarded at the time as banquet arranged at the Southern CrossVictoria in 1936. SA took until 1974 to form one of Australia’s best sparkling wines Hotel by the Wine and Food Society of Victoria, Sid’s brother Keith todayThe Frenchman must have found conditions in remembers sitting next to Simon. He alsothe Barossa Valley most trying, as the temperature remembers hearing Simon tapping awayreached 42.7C. on his typewriter at 2am, writing up his notes of the day’s happenings.) Beforea branch. The Wine and Food Society which, not surprisingly, Simon tasted lunch at Orlando Simon appreciated aof Australia began in 1969, with Victor on many occasions. This was followed “refreshing glass of ice-cold OrlandoGibson as president.) by H Buring & Sobels Granfiesta Sherry Champagne”: the Frenchman must have (Special Bin), then 1962 Edwards and found conditions in the Barossa Valley At the Bacchus Club luncheon president Chaffey Seaview Rhine Riesling. Next most trying, as the temperature reachedSid Gramp, in the chair, and 130 members came 1955 Penfolds Grange Hermitage 42.7C (109F). He would also havelistened attentively to Simon as he (“matured in small wood for one year prior appreciated the cold lunch of Barossaspoke of the founding of the Wine and to bottling”), followed by 1946 McWilliams Valley rock melon, “a number of unusualFood Society in London. The Advertiser Mount Pleasant Sauternes (riesling and and very good salads of herring andreported that the society was founded white hermitage from Mount Pleasant and potatoes, yabees’ (sic) (ecrevisses) tailsin the 1930s when hardly anyone could the Hunter Valley, aged in 1000-gallon and lettuce, and so on”. Victor Gibsonafford to go out and eat. Its motto was oak casts until bottled in 1946). Then observed that “the guest was delighted“Not too much, but enough and the best”. came 1945 HM Martin & Sons Stonyfell at the service of Australian foods with aI don’t know what Simon and the members VP (shiraz two-thirds and cabernet German twist”. All the wines were fromate and drank, but it was almost certainly sauvignon one-third) from Langhorne Orlando - a 1961 Auslese Riesling wasa meal of at least three courses with wines Creek and finally Angove’s St Agnes followed by a Barossa Trebbiano, andto show off South Australia’s best. Liqueur Brandy (white hermitage) from the cheese was served with a 1959 and Renmark. Compared with the number of a 1957 cabernet. To finish were a 1945 That evening, the Australian Wine Board wines usually placed in front of him Simon Orlando Vintage Tawny (sic) Port and angave a dinner in honour of Simon at the must have been surprised, and perhaps Orlando Vintage Brandy. Let us hope thatHighway Inn Hotel, on Anzac Highway the wines and spirits were not served atin the Adelaide suburb of Plympton. The room temperature. In the unlikely event that Simon was offered Orlando’s best- selling wine of the time, Barossa Pearl, he did not mention it.28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

Taste the Wine Drink the Region Farnese Wines has established itself as a leading winery of Southern Italy by rediscovering the native vines of the region and successfully fusing past traditions with modern winemaking techniques. Festival City Foods & Liquor is now proud to offer these unique and intriguing wine varietals to Australia. … look out for the range at leading Adelaide restaurants and discover the distinctive flavours of the Abruzzo terroir.Proudly distributed by Festival City Food & Liquor T +618 8349 1200 www.festivalcitywines.com.au

SSOTUATHRERSNMICHAEL COOPER grown from four participating wineries - winemaker for Montana/Brancott Estate). Montana, Cellier Le Brun, Hunters and “One of the things we need to understandOVER a billion glasses of Marlborough Te Whare Ra - to more than 60, attracting about sauvignon blanc is that most of oursauvignon blanc were poured last year, 8000 wine enthusiasts to Pernod Ricard wines are made from vines planted lessmostly in New Zealand, Australia, the UK NZ’s sweeping Brancott Vineyard, where than 20 years ago,” he says, pointing outand the fastest-growing market - the US. In the festival has been held every summer that many early plantings were disease-a poll of their favourite wine regions in the since 1987. prone and on poor sites. Mature vinesworld to visit, the readers of USA Today, the will bring new dimensions to the region’smost widely circulated print newspaper in Montana established the first vines in classic sauvignon blanc style, he believes.America, recently voted Marlborough into the modern era of Marlborough winefourth place. in 1973, but sauvignon blanc was not Ara is a huge vineyard on a raised river planted until 1975, followed by the variety’s terrace in the lower Waihopai Valley, Wine tourism is booming in Marlborough, first commercial bottling in 1979. Today, with a 90m decline from its south towhich boasts 65 per cent of NZ’s total sauvignon blanc accounts for 77 per cent north boundaries. In a bid to learn morevineyard area. The region has about 40 of the region’s plantings, far ahead of pinot about the impact of the estate’s deep,cellar doors, almost all in the lovely Wairau noir (11 per cent), chardonnay (4.5 per weathered, clay and gravel soils, whichValley, within an easy drive of the small city cent), pinot gris (4.4 per cent) and riesling are much older than the alluvial soils on theof Blenheim (population 31,000). Most of (1.3 per cent). The only other varieties in surrounding plains, Clarke is producingthe 43,000 overseas wine tourists who pour Marlborough with more than 50ha recorded not only single vineyard wines, but also ain each year are from Australia, the US, the are sauvignon gris and gewurztraminer. selection of single block sauvignon blancsUK, Japan and the fastest-growing country and pinot noirs.of origin - Germany. Despite the runaway success of sauvignon blanc for whites and the rising status of the Marlborough’s high profile for sauvignon Many of the visitors flock each February region’s pinot noir-based reds, there is blanc is also helpful when it comesto the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival, much to be learned about Marlborough’s to spreading the word about its otherthe largest and longest established in the potential, says Jeff Clarke, chief winemaker wines, reports Clive Weston, managingcountry. Over 30 years the festival has at Ara (who for many years was chief director of Negociants NZ, which owns30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

Marlborough’s high profile for cheap wine from fruit damaged by rain atsauvignon blanc is also helpful the end of the 2014 season will competewhen it comes to spreading the word directly against the region’s quality wines.about its other wines. But after the glut-induced stagnation ofNautilus Estate. “Marlborough has become Valley now has nearly 30 per cent of 2008-2011, Marlborough’s vineyard areacredible because of sauvignon and then Marlborough’s total vineyard area. is expanding again. The Valmorbida family,there is a trickle-down effect on the other owner of Mitchelton from 1980 to 1994,varieties that go to market with the word Simon Clark, of Clark Estate, in the recently purchased a 45ha vineyard in the‘Marlborough’ on the label, be it pinot gris, Awatere Valley, worries that Marlborough is Waihopai Valley. Delegat’s, owner of Oysterpinot noir or chardonnay.” being taken over by large, overseas-based Bay, has started a winery expansion that will wine companies. “Is there a place for the eventually double its production capacity Weston also reports growing interest in small producer anymore? Would the magic to 40,000 tonnes (3 million cases).Marlborough’s sub-regions. “Over time still be there if these boutique brands didn’tthe trade, the media and the discerning exist?” But Stuart Smith, the region’s new Babich, approaching its 100thwine consumer all want to drill down to MP, who has in-depth personal experience anniversary in 2016, recently opened itsthe next level. When people get to know of the wine industry, says apart from much- first custom-built winery near Blenheim.Marlborough, they want to know about the needed capital, foreign investment brings In the words of Clive Jones, chairman ofsub-regions - they want to know about the something even more important - a route Wine Marlborough, the promotional body:Southern Valleys, they want to know about to international markets. “Marlborough isn’t the biggest region inthe Awatere, they want to know about the New Zealand by accident - it’s the bestWairau.” First planted in 1986 - 13 years Some argue that Marlborough’s sauvignon place in the country to grow grapes.”after the Wairau Valley - the Awatere blanc ascendancy will be eroded by South Africa or the Loire Valley. Others worry that Above: Stoneleigh Vineyards’ sites, on the north side of the Wairau Valley, are especially acclaimed for weighty, ripe, tropical fruit-flavoured sauvignon blancs. Marlborough tasting starts page 90. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 31

Cocktail CredentialsItaly’s latest ‘headline’ wine has a sparkling futureWINSOR DOBBIN an immense rise in popularity as an aperitif. of Italian wines. And prosecco is at the This evening I am enjoying a Bellini in the bar forefront. Last year it out-sold champagneTHE beautiful wine region of Prosecco is globally and the whole region has a gourmetright on the doorstep of one of the world’s of the ultra-chic M Gallery Hotel Papadopoli, focus, producing an array of table winesmost romantic cities - Venice. a boutique establishment at the intersection (unlike Champagne) and cheeses, including of the Grand Canal, the ‘main road’ in Venice, Asiago and Grana Padano and various And while Venice is a destination of and the smaller Tolentini canal. I’m taking a salumi and prosciutto.timeless appeal, wine styles don’t get any short break exploring the marvels of the cityhotter right now than prosecco. In Venice, after a trip to what has become one of Italy’s The surge in international demand hasthe cool crowd sip on Bellini cocktails made hottest vineyard destinations centered on meant plantings are increasing rapidlyfrom prosecco and peach juice. In New York the nearby towns of Treviso, Conegliano and throughout the region – as are tourist numbers.and London, spritzes are all the rage, with Valdobbiadene, where grape growing datesprosecco mixed with Aperol or Campari. back to Roman times. The appeal of prosecco is easy toCombined with vodka and lemon sorbet, understand; whether made fully sparklingprosecco is also an ingredient of the cocktail Wine tourism is all the rage here, and (spumante) or lightly sparkling (frizzante),sgroppino, while in Australia it has enjoyed across Italy, with over five million travellers it is refreshing, low in alcohol and relatively each year motivated solely by their love affordable. It is all about freshness and

immediate drinkability. It has been promoted Prosecco is produced in the Veneto Prosecco shouldas “nice, at less than half the price”. and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions, largely be enjoyed around the towns of Conegliano and from a white Wine producers here run the gamut from Valdobbiadene. wine glasssmall farmhouse makers with just a few rather thanrows of grapes on steep slopes to those Unlike champagne and premium a champagnewith historic mansions like Villa Sandi, Australian sparkling wines, prosecco flute, as thiswhich dates back to 1622 and is one of the is largely produced using the charmat accentuates bothgrandest wine estates you’ll find anywhere. method, in which secondary fermentation the aromas andThe region is alive with cantinas offering takes place in stainless steel tanks. This flavours.tastings and upmarket hotels and eateries makes the wine cheaper to produce, andcatering for the influx of tourists, including has resulted in a global explosion of interest THE FACTSVilla Sandi’s boutique Locanda Sandi. over the past five years with 65 per cent ofTake detours off the main roads here to production exported. M Gallery Papadopoli Hotel Veneziahillside villages where the odd wild boar is set in an 18th-century mansionstill roams. The entire appellation is dotted The wines range from sweet to dry, but with 97 rooms and suites, some withwith medieval walled towns and cities, all are best consumed when the wine is as magnificent views. The hotel is just aand beautiful old churches. The rugged young as possible, and certainly within a short walk from the bus station andcountryside is full of abbeys, churches and couple of years of production. Some experts one stop, or an easy walk across thecastles with a mountainous backdrop. say prosecco should be enjoyed from a Constitution Bridge to the Piazzale white wine glass rather than a champagne Roma water bus stop and the main The delightful city of Treviso, known as flute, as this accentuates both the aromas railway station; phone +39 041 710 400.Little Venice because of its rivers, canals and flavours. www.hotel-papadopoli-venice.com.and many churches, barely rates a mention Emirates flies from Australia toin many guide books, but it is a charming In 2009, the Prosecco di Conegliano- Dubai 84 times per week, with dailybase from which to explore for those who do Valdobbiadene DOC appellation from the onward connections to 35 Europeannot wish to commute the 40 or so kilometres hilly areas of the region was lifted to the destinations, including Venice. Emiratesfrom Venice. Some of the old water mills that loftier DOCG recognition, and there is also provides 30kg of checked luggage perdotted the city have been converted into now an Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG passenger in economy class and 40kgtrendy homes, but the city retains much of its to the southwest. The DOCG consorzio has in business class; phone 1300 303 777ancient charm. It’s a prosperous place where even applied for UNESCO World Heritage or www.emirates.com/au.locals and tourists alike stroll the ancient Site status.streets and piazzas, and walk the river banks Opposite Page: Prosecco Vineyards.and canals in the midst of leafy gardens. The other regions have since 2009 been recognised as DOC and that includes the Italian & Spanish tasting starts page 64. The region is best explored by taking the majority of the prosecco exported to Australia.La Strada di Prosecco (Prosecco Road),a driving route that passes many of the Either way, it is no surprise that Italianfinest wine estates, vineyards, osterias producers hail prosecco as “the successand enoteccas. story of the 21st century”. It’s the instant success story that has taken hundreds It is interesting that while prosecco is of years.known and loved as a style, many drinkersknow nothing of its back story. Prosecco That said; the news is not all good. The wetis usually made from the indigenous 2014 vintage has been described as “theglera grape (itself sometimes known as most difficult in 50 years”, with both quantityprosecco), although other varieties are and quality down considerably. Some of theallowed and while the name prosecco leading producers have said they will notderived from a village near Trieste, DOC make flagship wines. But still the planting continues and exports continue to grow. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 33

ON WITHTHESHOWDRIVEN BY A LIFE-LONG AMBITIONTO SUCCEED, WARREN R ANDALL HASUNVEILED HIS SHOW STOPPER.

NIGEL HOPKINS and it’s full, with 960 tonnes of Barossa champagne maker with Lindemans and in A-grade shiraz,” he says. “For a winemaker 1982, at the age of 26, champagne makerWITH all the publicity and fireworks there’s no better feeling. It’s now the with Seppelts Great Western in Victoria.surrounding the opening of Seppeltsfield’s largest A-grade winery in Australia.”new cellar door, with the associated Fino He would stay there for the next eightrestaurant and stunning new courtyard It was the first major move for Randall years. “This was where I really set mysurroundings, it would be easy to think that after his full buy-out of Seppeltsfield, career up,” Randall says. In that periodowner Warren Randall had become some completed in 2009, and it took its first fruit he won 28 of a possible 32 trophies forsort of wine industry showman. in 2010, operating in conjunction with a his sparkling wines such as Salinger more modern winery built by previous and Fleur de Lys, including two “grand In a way he has because with wineries owners Fosters in the 1980s. slams” in 1985 and 1987 when he wonamalgamating or up for sale in what is every possible trophy in Australia. It wasclearly a difficult time for the industry, The path from cellar hand at Wynn’s a feat achieved only once before, by PhilipRandall has his foot flat to the floor in Glenloth winery at Reynella in 1977, Shaw with his Rosemount chardonnay inoptimistic expansionist mode, driven by working under winemaker Pam Dunsford, the early ’80s.a real sense of the opportunity awaiting to owner at Seppeltsfield had taken himthe brave and the bold. 32 years. He began with no family history “We were just unbeatable,” he says, and or connection with the wine industry. His then he got the call from Andrew Garrett to Perhaps most tellingly, it is not the opening father, a returned World War II soldier, ran take over as chief winemaker at a salaryof the $3 million cellar door development a theatre catering business. The young double the $90,000 or so he was on atthat has given him most pride, it is the Randall would loiter in the aisles with his Seppelt. He would stay with Garrett forfull restoration of Seppeltsfield’s famed tray of Jaffas and Fruchocs: “My father the next five years but the trouble was thatgravity winery, built in 1888 and a museum taught me how to sell - don’t hold back, Andrew Garrett Wines had run into majorsince 1984. Behind the businessman and he’d say.” His mother, who ran a garden financial difficulties.entrepreneur, joint owner of Tinlins Wines, shop, taught him how to buy: “She had thedirector and proprietor of Fleurieu Vintners best stock in town”. “Until then I had no idea of the cost ofand Boar’s Rock, proprietor of Bridgewater making wine,” Randall says. “I just hadMill and proprietor and managing director He studied agricultural science at the brief to make the best sparkling wineof Seppeltsfield Wines, is basically a Adelaide University - “it had the lowest in Australia. I never learnt so much as I didwinemaker. TER requirement” and it wasn’t until his in that first year with Garrett.” third year, by then studying at the Waite All of this has made him, at the age of Institute, that he finally started to get his His job at Garrett had him closely59, the largest private owner of premium act together. “That was when Professor involved in all winemaking activities acrossshiraz vineyards in the Barossa - not to Don Nicholas, who was Dean of the faculty, a wide portfolio, as well as sparkling wine.overlook, in addition, a huge volume of old decided to mentor me, made me lift my Then in 1993, by which time the companyvine grenache, the owner of the highest game and push myself harder. I ended up was now effectively being run by Japaneseproportion of A-grade shiraz vineyards in with all top credits. investors Suntory, he was offered a chanceAustralia and the largest private owner of to buy the four vineyards totalling just overvineyards at McLaren Vale, with around “That proved to me there was something 100ha owned by Tinlins Wines. “I didn’t20 per cent of the region’s total vineyards. there. My father had pushed my work even know it was there,” Randall says, ethic, telling me you’re not as good as “but we didn’t own enough of our own The McLaren Vale vineyards alone, you think you are, and my mother had told vineyards and I thought Andrew Garrettunder the Tinlins Wines banner that he me there was only ever going to be one should have them”.and partners Andrew Fletcher and Warren person stopping me from being whateverWard had purchased in 1993 after their I wanted to be, and that was me.” These But it was a vain hope. By then, Randalljoint exit from Andrew Garrett Wines, would turn out to be the basics that would says, Garrett was going under, crippled byhas become the largest supplier of high- drive the future Randall through his career. bank debt and production director Warrenend bulk wine in Australia. Randall says Ward was rudely rebuffed by Suntory,Seppeltsfield has now tripled that figure, Despite this he failed in his first which had no intention of sinking morebut in all this story of entrepreneurial two attempts to become an assistant money into the company. Armed with twosuccess it is that gravity winery to which winemaker, but the cellar hand role six-packs of Cooper’s Ale, Randall methis heart returns. quickly led to greater things. Within two with Ward and eventually persuaded him years he was winemaker at the Seaview “It makes my heart sing when I walk in champagne cellars in Adelaide, then Opposite Page: Cellars at Seppeltsfield. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 35

SEPPELTSFIELD IS NOW BACK TO WHERE SHEBELONGS AS AUSTR ALI A’S ICONIC W INE ESTATEthey should buy the vineyards, which they a tsunami of oversupply of C-grade wine He negotiated to regain access to thedid with Fletcher as the third partner. that was spilling over and flooding the 100ha of original Seppeltsfield vineyards D-grade sector and below. that had been leased to former owner What Randall lacked in cash he made up Fosters, he restored the gravity-feedfor in ambition. “I wanted to be a millionaire He drew an analogy with rising winery, hired Paul Georgiardis as grapeby the time I was 40,” he says. He was floodwaters creeping up a totem pole. supply manager and ex-Constellationthen 37. Suntory had taken a dim view of “I honestly thought McLaren Vale was winemaker Fiona Donald as chiefthis venture by three of their key people top of the totem pole,” he says, “but now winemaker. Another 100ha or so of Edenbut consented - provided they didn’t start my feet were getting wet and I couldn’t Valley vineyards were bought, and thena brand or compete in the purchase of sell McLaren Vale shiraz. I decided that more than 1000ha of the defunct BarossaMcLaren Vale grapes. Fair enough, said the top of the totem pole in Australia was Vines vineyards. In a separate move heRandall, and the Tinlins bulk wine model the Barossa Valley, and I wanted to be at also took on ownership of the formerwas under way. The business prospered the top”. Petaluma property Bridgewater Mill.so well, Randall adds, that three timesover the next 10 years it borrowed money Randall couldn’t persuade his partners “Seppeltsfield is now back to whereto expand, and each time managed to to join him in a new Barossa venture, so he she belongs as Australia’s iconic wineretire that debt. decided to go it alone. “That has been our estate,” he says. “Now I have more debt only ever difference of opinion,” he says. than I’ve ever had in my life but with that Fast forward to December 2008 when “I didn’t want to risk losing all that we’d debt comes self-belief. I’ve never been aRandall received a call asking if he’d built up over 16 years but for me it was an follower. If that means I’m a leader, so bebe interested in buying the 50 per cent unbelievable twist of fate that I should be it. I don’t know any other way.of Seppeltsfield, owned jointly by Janet back at Seppeltsfield in 2009.”Holmes a Court and then Mirvac Group “I also believe in the Australian wineCEO Greg Paramor. By now Randall’s view He bought that initial half share of the believer. I am a believer,” he adds forof the wine industry was changing. His Seppeltsfield Estate Trust, with co-owners emphasis. “And I never give up. I’m atheory was that Australia had developed Kilikanoon still holding the other half, with really bad loser.”a two-speed wine economy in which there “hay from the shed” (no debt). But that waswas almost unlimited demand for icon, A just the start. Randall has since embarked Above: The gravity-fed winery at Seppeltsfield.and probably B-grade wine, but there was on what he describes as a “series of bolt- ons” to make Seppeltsfield what it is today. Barossa tasting starts page 76.36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINWE ARE embracing extremes in 30 years. Jones has modeled acclaimed chef Jacques and three ofMelbourne as late 2014 and early his South Yarra den on the his four children, Nathalie, Edouard and2015 saw one new venue open serving Paris restaurant L’Entrecote, Antoine. The family, which also owns andlegumes, ancient grains and vegetable serving a set menu of sirloin operates Bistro Gitan in South Yarra hasjuice, and then two others take on the steak (the entrecote) with fries taken over the pub that was previouslyFrench bistro in all its ‘steak frites’ glory, and a simple green salad for called Hotel Max.and another take Moroccan street food lunch and dinner. He hasto the streets of Fitzroy. made a smart move by joining After a complete overhaul, the Art forces with Adam North, Deco hotel reopened in November with The team which founded Dead Man beef producer from Hopkins a French-influenced dining room, barEspresso, a cool coffee joint in South River Beef near Dunkeld, and private dining room for up to 12Melbourne, opened its newest project, an western Victoria. Steaks and downstairs and a private event spaceall-day eatery and bar called Sun Moth an endless supply of fries upstairs. The venue was pegged to openCanteen and Bar just before Christmas. (just ask) are available from in late September but the ReymondsLuke Mutton and Kylie Mackinlay - noon to midnight daily, priced encountered unexpected obstaclesfounders and former owners of Dead Man at $39.90 per person and renovating the building that was built inEspresso followed by Common Galaxia in there are two appetisers to 1854. The ground floor revolves aroundthe inner-west suburb of Seddon - have choose from, opening with a central kitchen open on all sides. Barjoined forces with Jackson Duxbury oysters shucked to order seats along the front allow customers toand Tod La Mar, and have pared back or a French onion gougere, watch the kitchen in action and interactjust about everything in the small dining a savoury cheesy puff of with staff. The showpiece cherry redroom, including the decor (blonde wood baked choux pastry with soft rotisserie cooks a “rotisserie of the day”and striking modernist lighting) and caramelised onion. The wine and a crepe station turns out savourymenu selection where things are kept list is built around the red meat buckwheat crepes. The well-structuredvery simple. The open kitchen is run by extravaganza but there is lots wine list has a broad choice of Australianchef Sebastien Nicholas who makes just of champagne and some interesting, locally and European drops. 32 Commercial Rd,seven breakfast dishes, eight lunches made boutique white wines. 133 Domain Prahran; phone (03) 9999 0990.and a handful of sweet pastries. There Rd, South Yarra; phone (03) 9804 5468.are other small dishes to share later Above: The Nelson Interior.in the evening, including cheese and Jason Jones, who got us all queuing atcharcuterie, but daytime seems to be the Mamasita in the city and then at B’Stilla incore of the operation. The menu has grain South Yarra, has opened B’Stilla Cantinadishes that include risottos and quinoa in Fitzroy. The new venue is eat-in orsalad, and breakfasts don’t forget classics takeaway as there’s just 24 seats insidelike porridge and granola. In the bar, La and 24 outside (they don’t take bookings).Mar has designed a sassy little cocktail The room is bright with Northern African-list using many locally produced spirits, inspired tiles on the walls and retro-wallincluding the Hellyer’s Road whiskey and hangings - there’s a picture of Elvis in aWest Winds gin, and the six beer taps keffiyeh - and colourful crockery that holdspour brews from Australia and across the dishes from the short, sharp menu of hotTasman focusing on small independent sandwiches and other dishes such ascraft brewers. Shop 3, 377 Lonsdale St, lamb ribs with date, lime and red dukkah,Melbourne; phone (03) 9602 4554. and barbecued octopus with tahini and kohlrabi remoulade. Entrecote, the new South Yarra steakhousefrom Jason M. Jones, opened in early Jones’s drinks list is also to the point,January. The restaurateur owns Melbourne serving alcoholic and non-alcoholiccafes - Friends of Mine in Richmond, South slushies as well as a wine list with “oneYarra’s The Stables of Como, CBD dining white, one rosé, one sparkling and one redroom Prix Fixe with chef Philippa Sibley and a couple of tinnies”. B’Stilla Cantina,and Moor Please in Hepburn Springs with which is where San Churros used to sit,chef Joseph Aboud. Entrecote is at 133 is open daily from noon Wednesdays toDomain Rd in the site that has had some Mondays. 277B Brunswick St, Fitzroy;unsteady recent years as Davis Yu’s, The phone (03) 9417 285.Millswyn and Louie, and previous to thatwas the iconic Lynch’s restaurant for some L’Hotel Gitan in Prahran is the latest business from the Reymond family -

hong konggrapevineivy ngTHE retro-British gastropub housed inside a restaurant and took up residence in its current pudding or baked Alaska! There’s a well-four-level former pawnshop in Wanchai, aptly four-storey premises in Wanchai in 1989. The appointed wine list with classic offeringsnamed “The Pawn”, with views of HK’s iconic focus is commitment to the finest ingredients and thoughtful selections, including a choicetramline, has had a makeover. The colonial and meticulous attention to customer service. of 15 wines, sparkling, red and white, bylook has made way for lighter and greener Sharing a selection of dim sums (around the glass or carafe (250ml or 500ml). Somedecor, with potted plants, botanical-themed A$8-$9, $HK50-60 per dish) is the best way well-aged wines include a 2000 Cantenac-lampshades and a modern eclectic collection to enjoy lunch here. I highly recommend Brown. Corkage is A$50 ($HK250) per bottle;of artworks and furniture. This marriage the steamed prawn dumplings (“har gau”), phone +852 2526 5293.of hearty and refined cuisine is echoed steamed minced pork dumplings (“siu mai”)in the creations by culinary director Tom topped with crab roe and deep-fried flaky Mott 32 embodies new HK and honoursAikens. Seeking more thought-provoking yam pastries with minced chicken filling. the age-old Chinese culture of farm-to-table,starters than the good old charcuterie board The barbecued pork pastries are moreish, delivering modern renditions of traditional(A$46, $HK295); I recommend the juniper- juicy pork inside crumbly sweet shortcrust home-cooked dishes using the freshestmarinated venison, beetroot snow, smoked pastry. Other signatures: crispy barbecued ingredients. Nestled inside the former vault ofbeetroot, offering depth of flavours and suckling pork crackling (A$35, $HK220) and the Standard Chartered Bank in Central, thetexture, resembling an impressionism-inspired honey-roasted fresh eel (A$61, $HK390). The decor combines the exotic and the glamorous,artwork (A$36, $HK230). The humble ricotta steamed duck egg yolk custard bun oozes with Chinese influence. Signature dim sumshas been transformed into a showstopper decadence… the salty sweetness and creamy include Wagyu beef puff, Kurobuta pork,starter, with olive oil, aged balsamic, herbs, texture of the melting custard, all soaked up crab and caviar Shanghainese dumplingsand sourdough bread (A$15, $HK95). For with the fluffy bun! For dinner, if neither your and Kurobuta pork, black truffle and quail-main course, the casserole of braised short rib budget nor palate stretches to the famous egg steamed dumplings. To impress youron the bone, with miso, marmite and melting braised abalone (priced according to size), try guests, order the deluxe barbecued primemarrow is perfect to be shared. Look no the frog’s legs with garlic and chilli, pan-fried Iberico pork, apple wood-roasted Pekingfurther for the best burger in town: beef burger lotus root cakes and sauteed beef with garlic. duck (served three ways: skin only, meat“extraordinaire” (A$28, $HK180) - a succulent By the glass selection includes Margaret River only, skin and meat, with wafer-thin wrapsrib-eye patty, with melted smoked cheddar, and Marlborough options. The red-dominated and condiments (48-hour advanced bookingonion (fried and braised) and plum jam with wine list includes some extravagant choices required), 12-hour slow-cooked pork belly,onion rings; yes please (A$5, $HK35)! The such as 12 vintages of Screaming Eagle aged black vinegar sweet and sour pork andbrined pork belly, botanical glaze, fermented (1993 - 2009), 1978 Hermitage La Chapelle stir-fried prawns, pumpkin and salted duckgrain and miso (A$40, $HK250), with crispy- (A$4000, $HK25,000) and 1978 Henry Jayer egg. To finish, green tea chocolate mousse orskinned succulent pork belly and miso- Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees (A$10,000, oolong tea ice cream? A great spot for Asian-flavoured jus, is an outstanding combination $HK60,000). Corkage is $48, $HK300 a bottle; inspired cocktails! There are prices to match,of sweet and savoury, even better with the phone +852 2866 0663. with such top ingredients and thoughtfulmarmite salt and sour onion side dish (A$10, executions; phone +852 2885 8688.$HK65). Dressed-up comfort food appears Another piece of old HK which has stoodas macaroni cheese (A$20, $HK130) with the test of time for over 80 years is Jimmy’s And so the new and traditional continue tochoices of garnish from braised beef (A$11, Kitchen, an institution of British and European thrive in HK!$HK70) to lobster (A$19, $HK120) and truffle classics. Velour-upholstered seats, dimmed(A$30, $HK185), and a range of pies! Leave lighting and trellised wood partitions are Above: Mott 32 Interior.room for the signature pud of spiced creme reminders of a bygone era. Old photos bearbrulee, palm sugar spiced shortbread (A$9, record to when Aaron Landau, inspired by$HK60) or the lime leaf and basil panna Jimmy James’ success in serving food tocotta, macerated strawberry and black olive satisfy the cravings of Shanghai-stationed US(A$12, $HK80). A respectable wine list even servicemen, started the HK version in 1928, afeatures an English pinot noir paying homage year after their meeting. Service at the Centralto Britishness! Corkage is A$48 ($HK300) a location is friendly and attentive. The classicsbottle. There is a private room that sits 12 to include chicken a la king, beef Wellington,22; phone +852 2866 3444. steak Diane, Jimmy’s beef stroganoff (made to a recipe from their Shanghai days) and Across the road from The Pawn is a piece of Jimmy’s bangers and mash (served sinceold HK - Fook Lam Moon (literally translated 1928 with green peas and onion gravy)! Foras “Fortune arriving at your doorstep”), an an original creation, try the prawn madrasinstitution of traditional Cantonese cuisine. (dry version), with the curry sauce bakedSet up as a catering service for prominent dry to an intensively flavoured spicy crumblefamilies in the 1940s, it later morphed into a (A$32, $HK206). Finish with steamed ginger38 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSONE of the most anticipated restaurant One of the more attractive of Adelaide’s younger clientele. He’s been the driving forceopenings in South Australia in the past year new breed of bar/restaurants is Mothervine, behind Singapore House (Asian), British Indiahas been that of Fino at Seppeltsfield in the located in what was previously the home of (Indian), Ruby Red Flamingo (Italian), MesaBarossa Valley, part of a massive $3 million East End Cellars, which has now moved Lunga (Spanish), Lucky Lupitas (Mexican)restoration program by Seppeltsfield owner across the road to become the Tasting Room. among others, with interests in food chainsWarren Randall. The redesign by architect Fasta Pasta (Italian) and Kwik Stix (Asian).Max Pritchard has created a total of three EEC owner Michael Andrewartha hasdining areas, the original 1850s bottling hall teamed with partners Amalfi restaurateur All of them are highly theatrical and visuallythat includes the cellar door facilities, a semi- Frank Hannon-Tan and David Lemire entertaining, which is part of the fun, andsubterranean dining area housed within the MW from Shaw & Smith to create a highly at Cliché Ventura’s visual theatrics have1868 bluestone wine fermentation tanks and sophisticated wine bar, which even offers combined restaurant and bar with a galleryan al fresco area overlooking a huge terraced a Steve Pannell red and white wine on tap, (the Winkler Gallery, curated by Waltercourtyard and fountain. There were many and a great wine list with 20 or more specials Venturawitz) of bold, oversized images bydedicated customers of the original Fino offered by the taste or glass. The menu is 24 local artists that, in his words, “exploreat Willunga, 50km south of Adelaide, who small but goes beyond the usual snacky the French narrative and Gallic peculiarities”.wondered how owners Sharon Romeo and stuff, with large plates such as braised lamb The same goes for the food, little of whichchef David Swain could possibly manage, and root vegetable pie, or a beef, saffron and would be found on the menu of a traditionalat the same time, a sibling restaurant 80km date tagine, all prepared offsite by chef Ali restaurant in Paris but is French-styled andnorth of the city and continue to provide Seedsman, with just a presentation kitchen given a post-modern twist by Suandokmaithe exceptional regionally-focused food for on site, a formula that keeps quality high and and his team. Dishes such as crepes filledwhich they’d made their reputation. Swain’s consistent. The name, interestingly, comes with lobster and prawn, Nu’s mussels - theanswer was to appoint another great regional from a clone of pinot noir, the MV6, or Mother classic dish with white wine, garlic andchef Ben Sommariva (ex Pennys Hill) to Vine Six, which was part of the collection parsley, “cheeky beef” - slow braised beeftake the helm at Fino Willunga, and move of grape vine cuttings brought to Australia cheek with burnt onion aioli and crisp kaleexperienced Fino sous chef Sam Smith to by James Busby in 1832. Lunch Thursday- and Bardot’s rack -lamb rack with a herb crusthead chef at Seppeltsfield, with both Swain Saturday, dinner Tuesday-Saturday, 26-33 work very well. Prices are good, service is fastand Romeo in effect helicoptering between Vardon Ave, Adelaide; phone (08) 8227 2273. and friendly, and if you get past a cocktailthe two. Swain is a chef who pioneered called Frog in Your Throat, the wine list isn’tan almost obsessive focus on finding the Another opening has seen acclaimed bad either. For Nu’s many fans, the possiblybest regional produce, with an open back Thai chef Nu Suandokmai take a culinary better news is that by mid-year he expectsdoor kitchen that welcomed local goodies, detour with the curiously named Cliché, a to be running an off-Gouger Street Thai streetwhile Romeo mastered the art of a small rather tongue-in-cheek take on French food food diner and bar, where he will go back towine list that sought out the best and most by Adelaide’s most successful restaurateur the culinary roots that made his reputation,interesting local wines, while providing Walter Ventura who has taken the former no doubt with Ventura providing yet anotherchallenges with imports from around the and rather undistinguished French restaurant highly enticing environment. Dinner Tuesday-world. Fino has won many awards on both d’Artagnan and given it a very sparkly lift. Saturday, 26 O’Connell St, North Adelaide;fronts. Fino Seppeltsfield now joins two other Ventura knows how to create restaurants with phone (08) 8267 4083.acclaimed local restaurants, Appellation and instant appeal, that are lots of fun and whereHentley Farm, in providing a showcase for the cooking is good enough and cleverly Left: FINO at Seppeltsfield.Barossa produce such as Hutton Vale lamb priced to make it affordable and attractive to a(try the pasty with silverbeet and KangarooIsland sheep’s milk yoghurt) or Savannahchicken (with charred spring onion, wakameand sesame), Don’s carrots, zucchini,preserved lemon and sorrel mayonnaise,or bacon broth with sherry-braised localwild rabbit. Wines, not surprisingly, includethe full Seppeltsfield range of house wines,exclusive to the restaurant and cellardoor, and of course the famed fortifieds,plus a typically eclectic list of Australianwines. Lunch daily, dinner Friday-Saturday,730 Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield; phone(08) 8568 6200. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 39

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGIT’S hard to avoid the obvious. Trying to lisp he was hung, drawn and quartered. On a My favourite? The steamed asparagus withthe Bogart line from Casablanca – “Of all the warm Sydney night, far from such historical mahogany-coloured brown butter. There’sgin joints in all the towns in all the world …” horrors, we enjoyed snapper/scallop with plenty to interest the up-market drinker from- as you walk into The Powder Keg. But the Savoy cabbage, heirloom carrots and brown made-to-order cocktails, European ciders,whip-smart decor - Edison light bulbs, funky butter and smoked and roasted half chicken sherry and ACME beer, express from theblues soundtrack and Milan Furniture Fair- with lentils, artichokes and mint. Served at US, as they say on cable TV. ACME, 60,style chairs - instantly semaphore that this the table by one of the chefs who prides Bayswater Rd, Rushcutter’s Bay; phone (02)slice of Kings Cross hip isn’t your average gin himself on foraging for wild herbs and leaves 8068 0932.parlour. Opened in late November by drinks near the city’s northern beaches, a coupleguru Grant Collins, managing director of Bar at the next table popped in to simply enjoy Neil Perry and fast food rarely occur in theSolutions, the award-winning international bar a wine flight from the multinational wine list. same sentence. But Australia’s most well-consultancy, the food is as much of a focus A smartly edited line-up that ranges from known chef opened the Burger Project inas the top-billing cocktails. The dedicated Australia through Italy, France, South Africa, late October, the first of what he hopes willbar up the back boasts an impressive 95 New Zealand and Brazil. I chose a Gregoris become a national chain. Located in Worldgins from around the world. And that’s just Pinot Grigio from the Veneto which teamed Square in the centre of the CBD, the 100 coverthe tip of the iceberg. Or should that be the perfectly with the fish and chicken. Desserts space offers gourmet burgers for a fraction ofhand-chipped block ice. The restaurant’s are kept to a minimum. Only three, including the price charged at Perry’s Rockpool Bar &name alludes to the infamous Guy Fawkes the colourfully named Negroni Ice Cream Grill venues in Sydney, Melbourne and Perthplot in the early 17th century when a group Soldiers and TPK Chocolate Jaffa. We went - all under $10. Before opening, Perry andof renegade Catholics plotted to blow up the for the cheese board to help soak up three his kitchen brigade worked on developingHouse of Lords in London. Betrayed by an cocktails downed as we reviewed the menu. a streamlined menu of beef and chickeninformer, the hapless Fawkes was arrested Another international mix from Switzerland burgers, and triple-cooked fries. There’s alsositting on a powder keg. If your idea of a to the UK that confirmed The Powder Keg’s ice creams, thickshakes and sodas to add angin cocktail consists of gin, tonic, ice and fetish for detail. The European, Australian upscale American diner feel, even though thea slice of lemon, you’re in for a treat. The and South American staff at The Powder Keg Burger Project is next door to Din Tai Fung,signature drink is the Gunpowder Plot - gin couldn’t have been nicer; naturally cheery the busy-as dumpling house. The dynamicinfused with gunpowder tea, Fernet Branca, and very expert at their job; they make a duo to go for is the custom-made Rockpoolgunpowder syrup, dandelion and burdoch visit even more memorable. The beer list New World Pilsener from Victoria and thebitters served in a smoky bell jar. The Nettle is also worth serious study. To borrow a Classic- like all the beef versions; groundGimlet - nettle-infused gin with house-made line from McDonalds – “I’m Lovin’ It”. in-house from 36-month-old grass-fedlime cordial, lemon and nettle sorbet is The Powder Keg, 7, Kellett St, Potts Point; chuck and brisket. There are also plenty ofanother masterful mix worthy of a Bond girl. phone (02) 8354 0980. takers for the Magic Mushroom burger withPlans are afoot for a gin cocktail school and grilled confit mushroom, the Chilli CheeseTwisted High Teas - miniature edible classic Still in the vicinity of Kings Cross, you’ll and Spicy Chicken. If you can, save roomcocktails in place of petit fours and cucumber find ACME at the so-called dead end of for the made-on-the-premises ice creams.sandwiches. The menu listings at The Powder Bayswater Rd. The name is an acronym of The Burger Project, Level 1, World Square,Keg are no less impressive. Chefs Roy Ner the names of the owners - Andy Emerson, 644 George St; burgerproject.com.(ex Aria) and Elijah Holland (ex Aria and Cam Fairbairn, Mitch Orr (ex Sepia andJonah’s) offer a studied menu from snacks Buzo) and Ed Loveday. There’s a choice Above: Cocktails at The Powder Keg.through small and large share plates, and of dining spaces on two levels, including adesserts with a modern English thread. sandstone cellar with a bar island for thoseOur first course comprised duck schnitzel waiting for tables, which does double dutylollipops with pickled kohlrabi and tarragon for events and private parties. There’s amayo, oysters with a gin and tonic sorbet and definite Italian - if not classic - overlay withquail Scotch eggs with smoked potatoes, a moreish line-up of pastas, thanks to Orr’spancetta and shimiji mushrooms. Textures mentor Italian uber-chef, Massimo Mattura.and tastes popped in my mouth but were But there’s also clear Eurasian overtonesperfectly balanced. The larger plates veer in offerings such as elbow macaroni withfrom fish and chips with mushy peas, smoked braised pig’s head, linguine with confit blackroe and school prawns to TPK wheeled garlic and burnt chilli, and loose lasagne withCumberland sausage with crushed kipflers Japanese mushrooms and sheep’s curd. Theand smoked creme fraiche. Re-tweaked baloney sandwich, showcasing Bolognatwists on old English fare that Guy Fawkes sausage with white potato bread andwouldn’t have had the stomach for before lukewarm mortadella has become a major reason many regulars make repeat visits.40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELDURING the latter part of 2014 spice levels than the crispy whole fish, this one doused like gan mian hot dry noodles, which has arose across the state. Longtime Thai in the in a salted yellow curry. Fillets have been fragrant, spicy oil under the noodles and isheart of Chinatown opened after a much- carved from the fish and are presented topped with crispy chicken wings. Pork andanticipated wait. Situated down a lane at alongside, spiced and fried to perfection, prawn wontons are bathed in ominouslythe top of the Chinatown Mall in Fortitude making it really easy to eat. There’s still red chilli oil and they’re soft and moreish.Valley, a golden Tuk Tuk heralds the entry plenty to eat on the frame, although muchto the brick-lined, L-shaped dining room. of the flesh almost melts into the smooth Pushing against the stereotypical curry sauce. The food is spot on and so is Westernised Chinese restaurant model Buttoned leather banquette seating lines the ambience - think very moody lighting, that exists in just about every suburb in theone wall and there are huge wooden tables vine-draped candelabras and small, country where terrible, sometimes pictorialin the centre of the room for communal exotic details like elaborately embellished wine lists are the norm, Votan has brokenseating or big crowds. The kitchen overlooks metal water glasses, twinkling votives and the mould by offering a short blackboardall this, as does the bar where trays of gorgeous glassware and flatware. 610 Ann list of non-bottleshop wines from smallerexotic, tropical cocktails are whizzing their St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3160 3123. vineyards, specifically from Australia.way to tables of revellers. The moodily lit They’re chosen to enhance the spicinessspace may make it challenging to read At the other end of the spectrum in of the food and they do that in spades. 2/36the menu but there are an abundance terms of fit out is Happy Boy, a modern Mein St, Spring Hill; phone 0413 246 890.of enthusiastic staffers who will take you minimalist hybrid Chinese situated on thethrough the multitude of choices. former site of Brisbane’s most enduring There’s some spiciness going on at South Japanese Restaurant, Little Tokyo. For Bank as well, albeit redolent of a very Not to be missed is the Bangkok taco, a decades local legend Mrs O’Brien, a different region. Che Asada is a spacious,crunchy little cracker folded around a spicy Japanese native, ran the brick-fronted open-air venue, which specialises in theprawn lab, and they are delicious, as is soft tatami room and tepanyaki bar that was famous barbecues of Argentina. The menushell crab bao - a soft bun hiding crisp fried easily the most popular Japanese eatery is vast and begins with classic cheesecrab and an apple slaw. Fine and delicate in town. After her retirement part of the bread then moves into shared startersegg nets filled with pork and barbequed building was repurposed and is now like ceviche of local white fish, pulledcuttlefish are drizzled with red nahm jim, shared creative and professional space, beef cheek empanadas and charcuteria -and banana flower salad is tossed with a but the back area, once a loading dock, Argentinian-style cured meats served withsweet-sour coconut dressing topped with is now home to Happy Boy. The space is house pickles. The menu is divided intogrilled organic chicken. It’s all colourful, about as simply furnished as it gets - a several sections but the main event is thefragrant and delicious, and none more so long bar runs down one wall and the other asado, which includes carved Cape Grim wall has a wooden banquette with scatter flank steak, grilled chorizo and morcilla, cushions at irregular intervals. Larger huge hunks of char-grilled pork belly, a tables and a polished wood communal dressed green salad, hand-cut fries and table take up the rest of the space, with a a large bowl of house made chimichurri. little lounge area tucked into one corner. Fried cauliflower, crisp florets sitting over Jordan Votan was inspired to create the a paprika aioli and sprinkled with almonds space and employ Hong Kong-born chef and pepitas, can be either a share dish Ken Lau by his travels across China. or a side, so can crispy brussels sprouts Lau cooks spice-laden dishes from all with smoked pork belly and hazelnuts, across the continent showcasing the and charcoal baby fennel with white vast differences that exist across China. anchovies and garlic. A little bit like a And there’s plenty of spice in the small classic Aussie barbecue, the menu is menu (smaller at lunch time), which is designed to suit larger groups with varying designed to share. Classics like Hainan tastes - there’s a section of brochetas from chicken rice and whole crispy snapper in the parrilla grill that feature tiger prawns, ginger and shallots sits beside regional octopus and chorizo, pickled veal tongue delicacies like dry fried green beans with and crisp morcilla. Beef is a specialty, pork, salt and pepper quail eggs and slow as you’d expect, and there are grass-fed braised fish-fragrant eggplant, which is cuts from Tasmania and grain-fed from absolutely delicious. Queensland as well as short ribs, all of which also come with green salad and Slices of white fish are “drowned” in an chimichurri. Shop 15, Little Stanley St, uber spicy Sichuan chilli broth, Xingiang South Bank; phone (07) 3846 5555. lamb is sliced wafer thin then stir fried in cumin, there are layered noodle dishes Left: Pork and Corn dishes from Che Asada. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 41

winewords D U A N E C O A T E SC OAT E S W I N E S - W I N E M A K E RSKYE MURTAGHA NEW cellar door will soon find its way on his dissertation for admittance to the improved and tweaked to get a betteronto the maps guiding wine lovers on Institute of Masters of Wine (the tasting result”. I’d like to think this is a twotheir treks through the Adelaide Hills and and theory exams are already finished), way exchange of ideas, and that NewMcLaren Vale. Coates Wines will open a you’re likely to find Duane cranking up World winemakers have also providedtasting facility in the second half of 2015 his stereo, spending time behind the influence in the European cellars theyat its boutique small batch winery in the wheel of an Alfa Romeo or eyeing off a have worked in.glorious Kuitpo region. Perched on a bullseye at the archery range.hillside overlooking the neighbouring How have your winemaking techniquesvineyards from which winemaker Duane When did your interest in wine start evolved?Coates sources the bulk of his fruit - to get serious?Coates Wines produces exceptional Each year a winemaker has to react toartisan-crafted wines, true to region and My work as a transport company yard the individual challenges of vintage andvariety. After his formal wine training at hand in my early 20’s was a formative time. vineyard, there is an ongoing thoughtthe University of Adelaide (Master of The job involved loading Australian wine process of how to get the best resultsOenology), Duane headed overseas to into shipping containers and unloading possible. I’m always trying to do less as awork vintages in Europe. Experiences cases of Rhone, Champagne, Bordeaux winemaker and let the vineyards expresswith the likes of Domaine Francois Villard and Burgundy. Over the next few years the themselves using traditional winemakingin the Rhone Valley were the inspiration desire to taste and learn developed, and a techniques.behind establishing his own label in copy of Hugh Johnson’s ‘The World Atlas2003. If he’s not in the winery or working of Wine’ sealed my fate from interested How challenging is the process of consumer into tragic wine geek. The sourcing grapes for your own wine move to winemaking was sparked by Max production? Harrison, an archery friend and long-time Hardy’s employee. He gently seeded the Coates has just finished its thirteenth idea that my science training (Bachelor of vintage, but we are hardly a well-known Science) and love of wine would make a brand with the wine buying public, or good combination. even within the wine industry. Taking on a new vineyard involves a leap of faith Tell us about one of your most on the part of the winemaker and grape memorable experiences working with grower until trust is established. The wine? regions I work within have an abundance of good to excellent grape growers and Vintage 2003 working as nightshift unfortunately there’s more supply than winemaker at Taylor’s in the Duoro demand in Australia at present. That said; Valley. David Guimaraens, Group Chief the very best growers are in demand as Winemaker, arrived at the winery around they spend time in their vineyards, have 3am after being up for countless hours pride in their work and can be relied upon on his rounds of the Quintas - tasting to produce excellent fruit. and talking to the winemaking staff. The enthusiastic comment he made at You moved your winery operation to this time - that vintage was so exciting Kuitpo last year - what prompted that? and only happens once a year put into context the level of passion and The winery is now located where we dedication required to be a great source our chardonnay, semillon, winemaker. sauvignon blanc, syrah and pinot noir. Kuitpo is less than 15 minutes What have been the biggest impacts from the main street of McLaren Vale, on your winemaking method? but its climate is very distinct. The cool days and evenings at Kuitpo suit Time spent in someone else’s cellars is the style Coates is striving for, and always a good learning experience, and provide moderating conditions in the my own winemaking style has picked up winery during vintage - which helps a great deal of influence by working in with fermentation heat load and a cool the Rhone Valley, Duoro and Burgundy. cellar for barrel maturation. Kuitpo is Firsthand experience of techniques and a very pretty spot, close to Adelaide styles lets you say “I like A, B and C of and relatively undiscovered. Geoff the process, but I think D and E can be Hardy is next door at K1 with a wonderful42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

cellar door and great wines. Withthe launch of our own tasting facility- hopefully around July - local andinterstate visitors will have anotherreason to discover the region.What have been some of the challengessetting up the cellar door?Committing to a decision, planning,regulatory approval and building all taketime and there are frustrating periodswhen progress seems to slow to a crawl.Plus we have to work to a tight budget.How important is it for a wine brand explored Hunter Valley and Margaret newly opened bottle of wine and ascendto offer consumers a cellar door River, Great Southern and the cooler the pine tree with a great view over theexperience? climate regions of Australia. The MW surrounding suburbs. So our first telling exams are very much a global sweep, so Burgundy experience was drinking 1988Between the marketing juggernauts of tasting and enjoying the classic regions Meo-Camuzet Bourgogne straight fromthe Australian big wine companies and of Europe, along with the US, South the bottle perched precariously high in athe coveted cool boutique brands sit America and Chile became important pine tree late on a cool summer evening.probably around 2500 wine brands trying too. Now I think I’m a pinot noir enthusiastto make ends meet. Coates Wines are in for red and have gone full circle back If you could fire up the stereo andthat competitive middle ground. Making to chardonnay for white. The allure of indulge in a glass or two right now,the connection with an involved wine pinot and chardonnay is they’re both what would be playing and beingconsumer for the first time, or showing varieties that are very easy to get wrong poured?an existing customer new releases at in the winery and vineyard, and can becellar door are important in sharing pedestrian. But the truly exceptional Feeling like something funky and slinkythe who, what, where, how and why of bottles keep you coming back, in so a Rhone blend from the source suchyour wine brand. There is a plethora of psychology jargon I think it’s called an as Gigondas or Chataeuneuf-du-Papegood domestic and imported wine in intermittent schedule of reinforcement. would hit the spot, or a local contenderAustralia, cellar door is an invaluable like Ruggabellus or Yangarra. Theway of showing your own wines in the Where’s the most unusual place turntable might get hit up with The Killsbest possible environment. you’ve consumed wine? or Mogwai, and possibly head to Wilco or Dylan as the mood relaxes. Food,Who in the wine industry have you Eccentric architect Nicholas Burns used wine and music are great sensorymet over the years that has inspired to live in St Peters, Adelaide, with a delights; there are probably moreyou the most? huge pine tree in his back yard. Every glorious combinations than stars in the once and a while Nicholas would grab a universe.Wow, too many people. Roger Harbordwas a winemaking mentor in my earlyyears, very easy-going and impartedlots of knowledge and valued the opinionof those he worked with. The Mastersof Wine programme gave access toboth the MW’s of the world, and a greatmany talented program participants.Gavin Lennard, now Fine Wine Directorat Langtons, was a great help in givingme confidence in the Coates label andmy winemaking direction.How have your own wine tasteschanged over the years?Like many others I started on biggerMcLaren Vale and Barossa reds, March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 43

wine investment & collectingAuction Dates Aruecptioonrts hysteria that arose from demand for 2009 and 2010 Bordeaux and Burgundy.LANGTON’S WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS Overall demand for fine wine world-wideAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (FIRST QUARTER INTERIM MARKET has evened out, with North America andWeekly Fine Wine Auctions closing REPORT, by ANDREA PRITZKER) Latin America playing a stronger role overevery Tuesday at 7pm. the past year.March 3 It’s been a strong start to 2015 forMarch 10 Langton’s with an unprecedented 13 An increased interest in BurgundyMarch 17 auctions taking place in January alone amongst collectors world-wide has seenMarch 24 and another 20 or so in the pipeline for Burgundy overtake Bordeaux in terms ofMarch 31 the remainder of the quarter. This exciting overall market share at auction. AlthoughApril 7 expansion of our auction program is a this is not yet the case in Australia (likelyApril 14 direct result of a welcome uplift in stock owing to the smaller volume of BurgundyApril 21 flows over the past year. The increased present in the Australian secondaryApril 28 frequency and diversity of auctions held market) strong demand for the wines over the past twelve months generated of Domaine-de-la Romanee Conti inVisit www.langtons.com.au for solid fine wine auction sales growth in particular are leading an upswing indetails about special themed auctions 2014, a trend that looks set to continue hammer prices for fine Burgundy.opening on Thursday and Fridays in in 2015.March and April. Imported wine highlights from the first Looking at global trends, the world-wide quarter of 2015 include a bottle of 2002STERLING WINE AUCTIONS fine wine auction market experienced a Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (DRC) LeAuctions run every two weeks, 4.5 per cent rise in revenue in 2014 Montrachet attaining $4608 and a bottleback-to-back, finishing on Wednesday growing to $357 million USD primarily of 2005 DRC La Tache achieving $4823.evening. underpinned by the strong sales Other top domains also performed well, performance of US auction houses. evidenced by a bottle of 2002 DomaineODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Whilst fine wine auction sales in Hong Armand-Rousseau Chambertin sellingFebruary 24 (closing January 30) Kong declined in 2014, owing in part for $1268.March 24 (closing February 27) to austerity measures in mainlandApril 28 (closing March 3) China, this can be viewed as a healthy Demand for Bordeaux, particularly blue correction; following the speculative chip right bank producers continues toGRAYSONLINE strengthen, demonstrated by impressiveDaily wine auctions, starting from $9 sales results early in the first quarter.per case, with a 30 day money back Highlights include a bottle of 2003guarantee. Chateau Ausone attaining $2097 and aFine wine auctions end Monday- bottle of 1990 Chateau Petrus achievingTuesday-Thursday each week. $5818. Sales of Chateau d’Yquem werePort and spirit auctions end on also buoyant evidenced by a bottle of theWednesdays. 1989 vintage selling for $2572.Monthly Single Malt Sales Sales of blue chip Australian wine alsoCRACKA WINES got off to a strong start. Top vintagesLive wine auctions every day at 8pm. of Penfolds Grange continue to show incremental increases indicated by(All dates are subject to change, bottles of the 2008 vintage achievingwithout notice) $699. Top Classified producer Wendouree also continues to draw strong interest from collectors with a six bottle lot of top vintage 2012 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec selling for $769. Of particular note was an incredibly rare set of Jimmy Watson Trophy Winners dating from 1961-2008 that sold for $11,650 - a great result for a precious collection of Australian vinous history. Alongside the offerings for top-end collectors, bargain hunters were also well-rewarded early in the first quarter with several themed sales including a sensational unreserved auction and 5 per cent buyer’s premium sale both driving44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGASPLAINS ANGOVE ANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELDARTWINE ASCELLA PURE ASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIEBALLAST STONE BANROCK STATION BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHEBATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIA BELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORDBERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUE PYRENEES BLUE TONGUEBOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHING SPACEBRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWNBROTHERS BROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIAAUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAH BRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPEMENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPEL VALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATECASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDS CHALICE BRIDGE CHALKHILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDON HILLSCLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARACOOKS LOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILLD’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTO DALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIISDEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENT DESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIRDEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE A DOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINESTATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAE EDWARDSELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEKFABER VINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROPFIVE GEESE FLAMETREE FLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOURSISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASER GALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLINGCUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREE GEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFFWEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDON GLENGUIN ESTATEGOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKED HAPPSSearchAND THREE HILLS HARDYS HAREWOOD ESTATE HARVEY RIVER BRIDGE ESTATE HEARTLANDHEATHCOTE ESTATE HEATHCOTE WINERY HEGGIES HENKELL HENLEY HILL HENRY’S DRIVEHENSCHKE HESKETH HEWITSON HIGHER PLANE HILL SMITH HITHER & YON HOLM OAKHOUGHTON HOUSE OF ARRAS HOWLING WOLVES HUGH HAMILTON HUGO INGOLDBY IRON POTBAY IRVINE J & J VINEYARDS JACK RUSSELL JAMES ESTATE JANSZ JASPER HILL JIM BARRY JOHNDUVAL JONES ROAD JOSEF CHROMY JUNIPER ESTATE KAESLER KAKABA KANGARILLA ROADAUSTRALIA’SKARRIBINDI KATNOOK KELLERMEISTER KILIKANOON KILLARA ESTATE KILLERBY KINGSTONESTATE KINLOCH KNAPPSTEIN KNEE DEEP KOONOWLA KOOYONG KREGLINGER KURTZ FAMILYLA LINEA LA PLEIADE LA VIE LACACHE LAKE BREEZE LAKE HOUSE LAMBLOCH LANGMEIL LARKHILL LARRY CHERUBINO LAST HORIZON LEASINGHAM LECONFIELD LEEUWIN LENGS & COOTERLEO BURING LERIDA ESTATE LIGHT’S VIEW LINDEMANS LOGAN LONELY VINEYARD LONGVIEWLOOSE LEAF MANDALAY ROAD MARCHAND & BURCH MARGAN MASSENA MASSONI MATISONLARGESTMAXIMUS MAXWELL MCWILLIAM’S MEEREA PARK MERUM ESTATE MESH MIHI CREEK MILESFROM NOWHERE MITCHELL MITCHELTON MITOLO MOJO MOLLYDOOKER MONTROSE MOONBARKESTATE MOONDAH BROOK MOOTHI ESTATE MOPPITY MORGAN PENDARI MOSS WOOD MOTORHEADMOUNT CAMEL RIDGE MOUNT HORROCKS MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN MOUNT PLEASANT MOUNTADAMMR MICK MT BUFF MUNARI NASHWAUK NIGHT HARVEST NINTH ISLAND NORFOLK RISE NUGANWINE SITE!O’LEARY WALKER OAKOVER OAKRIDGE OATLEY OCEAN EIGHT OCEAN GROVE ODDFELLOWSOLIVER’S TARANGA OMNI OXFORD LANDING PADTHAWAY ESTATE PANORAMA PARADIGM HILLPARINGA ESTATE PARKER COONAWARRA PARRI ESTATE PARTISAN PAUL CONTI PAXTON PEELESTATE PENFOLDS PENLEY PENNA LANE PENNY’S HILL PEPPER TREE PEPPERJACK PETALUMAPETER LEHMANN PEWSEY VALE PHILIP SHAW PICARDY PICARUS PIERRO PIG IN THE HOUSE PIKE& JOYCE PIKES PIMPERNEL PIPERS BROOK PIRIE PIRRAMIMMA PIZZINI PLANTAGENET PORTPHILLIP ESTATE PRANCING HORSE PREVELI PRIMO PRINTHIE PROTERO PROVENANCE PUNTROAD PUPPETEER PURE CLARE PURE VISION PURPLE HANDS PYRENEES RIDGE QUARISA QUATTROMANO RADFORD RALPH FOWLER RAVEN PARK RAVENSWORTH RED HILL ESTATE REDBANKREDGATE RESCHKE RINGBOLT RIPOSTE RISE VINEYARDS RIVERPINES ROCHFORD ROCKBAREROLF BINDER RUMBALL RYMILL SALINGER SALITAGE SALOMON SALTRAM SANDALFORD SCHILDESTATE SCHUBERT ESTATE SCHWARZ WINE CO SCORPO SEABROOK SEE SAW SEPPELT SETANTASEVENHILL SEVILLE ESTATE SHAW & SMITH SHEER DROP SHELMERDINE SHOWBLOCK SINGLESTEP SISTER’S RUN SIX FOOT SIX SKILLOGALEE SMITH & HOOPER SONS OF EDEN SOUL GROWERSSPRING VALE SQUITCHY LANE ST HALLETT ST HUBERTS ST JOHNS ROAD STANTON & KILLEENSTAR LANE STEELS GATE STEFANO LUBIANA STELLA BELLA STEP X STEP STICKS STOCKMANSRIDGE STONEFISH STONEY STONIER STRINGY BRAE OF SEVENHILL SUNNYCLIFF SUTTON GRANGESWINGS & ROUNDABOUTS T’GALLANT TAHBILK TALTARNI TAMAR RIDGE TAMBURLAINE TAR &ROSES TARRAWARRA TATACHILLA TAYLORS TEMPLE BRUER TERRA FELIX TERRAMORE TERRE ATERRE TEUSNER THE BLACK CHOOK THE HEDONIST THE LANE VINEYARD THE LITTLE WINE CO.THE OLD FAITHFUL THOMAS THOMPSON ESTATE THORN-CLARKE TILBROOK ESTATE TIM ADAMSTIM GRAMP TIM SMITH TIN SHED TORBRECK TOWER ESTATE TRUST TSCHARKE TULLOCH TURKEYFLAT TURNERS CROSSING TWO EIGHTS TWO HANDS TWO ITALIAN BOYS TYRRELL’S UMAMUVASSE FELIX VINACEOUS WATER WHEEL WATERSHED WESTERN RANGE WHINSTONE WILD OATSWILLOW CREEK WILLUNGA 100 WINDOWRIE WINE & TRUFFLE CO. 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wine investment & collectingfrenzied bidding on a diverse array of wines. At the first December sale though, Henschke, Mount Edelstone and Hill of As the year begins, there is a palpable buyers basically went hard on good value Grace from the 1990s and 2000s. Top reds and bought up heavily on a number bids overall in early December included asense of momentum pervading the of classic Australian premium table magnum of 1994 Grange at $710, a bottlesecondary fine wine market in Australia. wines. Better than expected clearances of 1983 Chateau d’Yquem at $250 andWith an incredibly diverse range of can be reported for Charles Melton a bottle of 1964 Tolleys Pedare Selectedfine and rare wines available and more Nine Popes, Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz, Vintage Shiraz (VHS, cellar damagedopportunities than ever before in which 2004 Dalwhinnie Cabernet and Glaetzer capsule) which went 104 per cent aboveto buy, there has never been a better Godolphin, 2001 Groom Shiraz, 2007 and the top end of the guide.time to buy or sell fine wine at Langton’s ’09 Mollydooker Velvet Glove, 1998 andauctions. 1999 Primo Estate Moda Amarone and Looking at the Top Ten Lists from the Wendouree shiraz and cabernets from a early December sale and all ten wines Visit www.langtons.com.au for full variety of vintages. in the Top 10 Hammer Prices, Australiandetails of upcoming events and special Wine list came from splendid vintages -themed auctions. From the premium end of the catalogue, with a magnum of 1994 Penfolds Bin 95 large offerings of 1998 Grant Burge Grange Shiraz (cellar scuffed and torn *All sales figures are inclusive of 16.5% Meshach, 2001 and ’10 Greenock Creek back label) in its original timber case inbuyer’s premium. Seven Acre, Langmeil The Freedom, the top spot at $710. A 1971 Penfolds Mount Mary Quintet from the 1990s, Bin 95 Grange Shiraz - Red Wine ClinicODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Rockford Basket Press from 2001 1994 (minor cellar scuffed label) came in(DECEMBER 2014 PREMIUM AUCTION through 2004 and Torbreck RunRig from second at $680, followed closely at $649REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHT) 1999 through 2010 - also cleared by a bottle of 2002 Chris Ringland Dry exceedingly well. Special mention should Grown Barossa Ranges Barossa Valley Oddbins’ early December sale, our be made of the excellent clearances Shiraz, also in its original timber case.largest in the second half of 2014, was of a large offering of two old stagers:very successful with strong hammer Lindemans Trio of Pyrus, St George and Take the ‘Big Two’ out of the equationprices and well above average clearances. Limestone Ridge from 1980 to 1984, and and large formats headed the Top 10For the first time ever, a late December a rarely seen 1985 Orlando Show Special Non-Penfold/Henschke Hammer Pricessale was also held with a truly stunning St Hugo. table. Leading the list was a magnumresult achieved off the back of an of 1998 Rockford Basket Press Barossaextraordinary bidding war for a possible With the Big Two, buyers keenly bid Valley Shiraz in its original timber caseexample of the first release of the on Penfolds Bins 28, 389 and 707 along which achieved $285, with a signed (byfamed 1963 Penfolds Bin 128. The final with Grange, Magill Estate and RWT Wolf Blass) double magnum of 1998 Wolfhammer price was an incredible $556, Shiraz. For Henschke, good clearances Blass Black Label Red Blend - JWT (levelwhich was 456 per cent above the top were recorded for Abbotts Prayer, Cyril into neck, cracked waxed capsule, cellarend of the guide! Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What

wine investment & collectingnicked label, capsule, weeping cork) in Performers, Per Cent Above Top End For more information visit www.second place at $224. Three Torbreck’s of Guides list was headed by that oddbins.com.au (all prices quoted aremade the cut with a 2010 RunRig Barossa extraordinar y result for the Tolleys exclusive of Buyer’s Premium).Valley Shiraz Viognier achieving $170 Pedare Shiraz. I was equally surprised byand bottles of the 1999 and 2007 both results for the 2010 Marchand & Burch GRAYSONLINEfetching $160. Also in the Top 10 was a Porongurup Chardonnay (cellar scuffed (JANUARY 2015 REPORT, by GREG2009 Mollydooker Velvet Glove McLaren labels, screw cap) which went 37.5 per FITZSIMMONS)Vale Shiraz (US Export label) in a velvet cent above the price guides and twogift bag, which achieved $160. bottles of 2004 Lake Breeze Langhorne Over the last few months of 2014 Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (screw cap) graysonline more than lived up to its A look at the Top 10 Hammer Prices, which went 36.7 per cent over. reputation for creating real excitement inImported Wines list and its evident that, the wine auction category. With a hugeeven in poor condition, the most famous For the first time in 2014, imported pool of diverse vendors, the end of thesweet wine of Bordeaux still attracts our buyers finally broke out of the top end year held considerable promise - howeverbuyer’s attention with a bottle of 1983 of the guides with the most action the addition of a selection of qualityChateau d’Yquem 1er Cru Superieur around the half bottle of 1985 Chateau offerings, from the extremely rare mixedSauternes (VVHS, minor cellar stained d’Yquem 1er Cru Superieur Sauternes case of 1982 Bordeaux through to a hostlabel, weeping cork) fetching $250. The (VVHS) which went 8 per cent above the of iconic Australian wines and ports,rest of the table comprised a delicious guides. With the fortifieds and spirits, more than sealed the deal. graysonlinemix of pinot noirs and a very unusual buyers stayed within the guides with the sold record volumes over the ChristmasSpanish table wine in a green bottle - a exception of a bottle of 1979 All Saints period yet, despite this increase in1948 Caves Alianca Colheita Vino Tinto Gold Medal Rutherglen Vintage Tokay volume, prices held firm largely due to(HS, minor cellar nicked label, still red in (minor cellar scuffed label) which went its considerable customer data base andcolour) which achieved $133. 22 per cent above the top end of the the high number of unique visitors the guides and a bottle of 1965 Rhinecastle graysonline fine wine site attracts. With fortifieds and spirits, the big Old Dolcetto (cellar stained label, badlydollars were spent on festive offerings. cracked wax capsule) which went 17.1 December saw the largest fine wineA bottle of Remy Martin Special Fine per cent above. sale graysonline has ever completed.Champagne Cognac XO fetched $130, as All up over 350 unique lots were posteddid a one litre boxed bottle of Glenlivet With the New Year we sadly report the online, with national press coverageHighland 18 yo Single Malt Whisky. retirement of Peter Crinnion from the and widespread advertising resultingClassic Australian fortifieds from Seppelt Oddbins’ warehouse. A very popular in a huge influx of new customers. Thewere also well represented. and hardworking employee, Peter will sale was led by the aforementioned be sorely missed by both our customers exceptional mixed case of 1982 Bordeaux In terms of how far buyers were and staff.prepared to bid, the Top 10 Australian March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 47

wine investment & collectingand included Latour, Petrus, Mouton, limited number on the secondary market of spirits being snapped up, including theLafite, Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc and a and demand is very strong. The 1998 world’s best whisky, Tasmania’s Sullivansfew super seconds. Bidding was fierce and 1996 both sold for over $300. It is Cove Rare Small Batch which sold foron this particular lot. Its value rose quickly interesting to note that over the past 18 $704, a bottle of Rémy Martin Louis XIIIand sharply and then stalled until the last months, the price of Bin 707 has climbed Grand Champagne Cognac going out atmoments of the sale when it achieved a an average of almost 20 per cent for the $1634 and Bundaberg Rum Pure Goldrecord price for a single dozen bottles. sought after vintages. So now is the at $1024.All in all the vendor was very happy with time to move on these if you have anythe result. Other notable wines were stashed away. Even Bin 389 is steadily Sales volume will continue to increasestraight cases of 1998 Chateau Angelus, pulling over the $100 mark for great as 2015 gathers pace via the new 241998 Chateau Pavie and 1998 Château vintages including 1996, ’98, ’94 and ’90. hour sale and the Tuesday feature sale,Lynch-Bages - all achieving better than In this sale a three pack of the 1998 sold which promises that a winning bid onanticipated results. Other Bordeaux’s at $339. There were many other iconic Tuesday night will see the wine sittingincluded 2008 Chateau Lafite Rothschild wines snapped up at attractive prices on your table for Friday dinner. Thiswhich went for $1059 and 2008 Chateau by appreciative buyers, such as Mount guarantee (east coast metro) is backed byMargaux for $614. Great burgundies Mary, Glaetzer, Henschke, Yalumba and the graysonline practice of immediatelysuch as 2004 Domaine de la Romanee- Grant Burge. despatching all wines after the close ofConti Richebourg Grand Cru and 2005 every sale.Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Customers are always after value winessold for $1209 and $1360 respectively. for around $50-$60 with enough age for Whether it’s ultra-premium aged wines,While over $50,000 of French wine immediate drinking - the sort of wines undiscovered quaffers or the brands youwas sold it was soundly outdone by the that prove a perfect accompaniment to a know and love - for great prices followedAustralian offerings which clocked up special dinner. With a cursory search there by fast and efficient service delivery, itover $100,000. are always several of these good drinking doesn’t get better than graysonline. wines to be had like 2006 Elderton Within the Australian sale Penfolds Command Shiraz, 2008 Wolf Blass Black For more information visit www.dominated volume and value - proving Label Cabernet Shiraz, 2006 Giaconda graysonline.com (prices listed don’tdemand for this iconic Australian label Warner Vineyard Shiraz, 2006 Rusden include buyers’ premium).remains robust. Several straight Grange Black Guts Shiraz and 2004 Henschkesix packs sold, the 2010 and the 2008 Lenswood Giles Pinot Noir - to name but CRACKA WINESeach achieving over $650. Pristine a few. They’re mostly sold by the six pack, (DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015bottles of the 1971 and 1976 vintages which represents great value. REPORT, by ANDREW GRAHAM)sold for over $1000. Bin 707 continuesto attain great prices as there is a very The remainder of the month saw After another hectic festive season, Christmas looming and a wide selection it’s quite a pleasure to debrief at this time of year. Without a doubt it wasWINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUEMOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARDFOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORESQuality wines at wholesale prices with all auctionssbtaacrktingugafrraonmtejeusatn$d9sppeeredcyasdee.liWveitrhy,aw3h0adt’asynmototnoeylove about wine at GraysOnline?Vcuissittowmwewrs.garraeygsoivninligneu.scofimve and find out why our stars!48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

sparkling wine that animated sales take out a subscription and save! Australiaover the Christmas period, and not just 7 issues (1yr) $A69 (includes $6.27 GST)champagne. Indeed prosecco performedstronger than ever before, even in the 14 issues (2yrs) $A128 (includes $11.64 GST)more premium end of the spectrum(and with plenty of Aussie prosecco in Price include GST, postage and handling.the mix too). new Zealand While bubbles continue to forge Price includes Airmail.onwards and upwards, it seems that Please mark  one option:sauvignon blanc’s popularity might havepeaked, with even the most favoured 7 issues (1 year) $A79brands experiencing softer demand over 14 issues (2 years) $A150the festive period. By contrast, premiumchardonnay continues to impress, with Asia, pacificwines $15 and upwards enjoying serious Price includes Airmail. Please mark :sales growth. 7 issues (1 year) $A120 We must speculate about whetherPenfolds’ ‘dual release year’ strategy Elsewherewas a hit, as sales were definitely softer Price includes Airmail. Please mark :than expected for all of the new releasewines, save for RWT which was the 7 issues (1 year) $A130surprise mover. Even the new Grange,which had every critic in a lather, seemed Home WineMasternot to have stirred up the expected Price includes Airmail. Please mark :demand. Time will tell whether this is atemporary situation. Complete Software Programme V11 $A89 Upgrade to V11 $A34.95 For something less temporary we’re Subscription Update* (1 year) V10 $A29seeing a continued acknowledgement Subscription Update* (2 years) V10 $A49of the joy of Mediterranean varieties *Requires software programme.in Australia. Vermentino and Fiano arefinally starting to kick some sales goals, Mr / Mrs / Missthough off a very low base. Beginning ofthe alternate white wine boom? Address In more exciting news, we officially Suburblaunched the Cracka deals app just beforeChristmas, with the app offering a ‘sneak State Country )peak’ at upcoming Cracka deals plus app- Post Code Phone (only specials and loads more. Availablenow in the Apple store. E-mail Cracka Wines conduct live unreserved Your subscription will start from the next issue.wine auctions every day with more I enclose my cheque for $than 4,000 wines currently available forauction or to buy now. payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: For more information, visit Mastercard Visawww.crackawines.com.au or [email protected] (all quoted Name on card:prices are per bottle with no buyerspremium applicable). Signature Expires / Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 Gift SubScription Recipient’s Name Address Suburb State Country ) Post Code Phone ( Please send a gift card to Me Recipient Also fill in your details in the section above. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 49

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 Moss Wood 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press1997 $80 2005 $651998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 Mount Mary 1990 $1502001 $120 Greenock Creek 1991 $1402002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $952003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $1502004 $110 Shiraz2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110 2006 $100 1995 $2802007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95 2008 $120 1997 $1602009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100 2010 $95 1999 $200 2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180 2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250 1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220 1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/1993 $80 1997 $1901994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $2001995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210 1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $6001998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $7001999 $90 2007 $200 2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200 2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,0002002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,0002003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $8502004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,0002005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $4502006 $110 1959 $2,0002007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,6002008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200 2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80 CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $7050 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015