Winestate Magazine March April 2014

MARCH/APRIL 2014 WINESTATE VOL 37 ISSUE 2 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE BAROSSA ITALIAN & SPANISH CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA ROSÉ CHARDONNAY MARLBOROUGH (NZ) 255 TASTEDPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 TALTARNI'S FUTURE ON THE RISE March/April 2014 Vol 37 Issue 2 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 plus Rosé • Chardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • New Releases





SEE YOU IN A record-breaking number of peopleFEBRUARY visited this year’s Cellar Door Wine2015 Festival! Thank you to our sponsors,ADELAIDE exhibitors and visitors in contributingCONVENTION to the great success of the event.CENTRE For information on how you can exhibit at the 2015 Festival, contact [email protected]



absolutelyirresistible...with meatHandcrafted in Central Otago,New Zealand – DrumsaraPinot Noir is so suited to meatit’s unfair to keep them apart.The luminous product of a warm, dry hinterlandautumn, Drumsara Pinot Noir holds notes ofwild cherry, plum and blueberry tantalisinglypunctuated by hints of spice, thyme, vanilla,liquorice strawberry and chocolate. Sealedwith a screwcap to ensure optimum quality.Drumsara Pinot Noir - a wine so suited to redmeat, you have to believe nature had it planned.Now available in New Zealand, Australia,Singapore and China.Ph +64 27 224 7447 Fax +64 3 441 [email protected] www.drumsara.com*NO ANIMALS WERE HARMED IN THE DRINKING OF THIS WINE.

NO.261 MARCH/APRIL 2014 THE WOLF BLASS FOUNDATIONEditor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Established 1994NZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael Bates Proudly SupportingAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] •Australian Wine Education,Graphic Designer Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] •Viticultural, OenologicalMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Research & Development,Tasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] DAI Rubicon •Wine & Health,Winestate Web Site E-mail: [email protected] •Global Wine Industry ProfileCONTRIBUTORSNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley phone +61 8 8232 5322South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins [email protected] Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] South WalesAngelica Naranjo - Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2013 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsMARCH/APRIL 2014FEATURES 36 A NEW BEGINNING After a major shake-up of the30 MARLBOROUGH IS ON 32 Taltarni brains trust, there’s THE MOVE a growing optimism that the Its sauvignon blanc might be NZ’s 36 winemaker is on the verge of a new main mover on the international era, writes Jeni Port. With Robert wine circuit but the region’s big Heywood now in the lead role, the shaker last year was an earthquake, Pyrenees-based producer is eyeing writes Michael Cooper. Despite the the competition, with Heywood damage the 6.6 quake inflicted, declaring he wants Taltarni to be Marlborough’s economy increased the best sparking wine house in at a markedly faster rate than the Australia within three years. national average, reflecting the importance of the resurgent wine 40 NEW BEGINNINGS FOR industry to the local economy. OLD STARS Recent arrivals on Australian wine32 FRESH FRONTIERS AS INDIA lists are quickly making a name for themselves, writes Andrew CorriganEMBRACES THE WINE CULTURE MW. Mainly from Spain and Italy, the newcomers are changing theIndia, once a driving force in way we enjoy wines as Australians continue to embrace the growinggrowing the world’s consumption casual wine bar culture. The sidewalk sippers generally deliverof wine, has shrugged off a mid- less fruity aromas and dry, yet interesting taste texture, and also go2000s slump, says Denis Gastin. great with a range of food flavours.A slow starter in embracing wine,India’s consumption was growingat an annual rate of 25 per centin the early 2000s, with a seriouswine culture taking shape amonginternationally-oriented, highincome consumers and younger W I N E TAST I N G S R E G U L A R Swomen. Specialist outlets, winebars and wine appreciation 84 Rosé 12 Briefssocieties are multiplying as India 21 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooperinternationalises and incomes grow. 90 Central & Western Victoria 22 European Report with Sally Easton 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley 94 Italian & Spanish 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 28 Wine History with Valmai Hankel 104 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley 44 Grapevine 50 Wine Words 108 Chardonnay & Blends 61 Subscription Form 76 Wine Investment & Collecting 118 Marlborough, NZ 82 What’s it Worth? 139 Aftertaste 128 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases 51 New Releases and Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 261 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au March/April 2014. Cover photograph Paul Grecaud.

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editorialA SWING OF THE PENDULUM. One of the interesting thingsabout this issue is that we have judged the wines that have beenrecommended prior to last Christmas, so they will have had ample timeto settle down, particularly the many new release wines that are launchedin September each year. One of these tastings was the big chardonnay tasting, the “GreatWhite Hope” of the Australian wine industry somewhat decimated anddisillusioned by the dominance of Kiwi sauvignon blanc in the country.Our role is not to take sides as we receive support from both countriesand also judge wines from both, allowing the results to fall where theymay. However, it is fair to say that Australian chardonnay has enjoyed asmall revolution in that the big blowsy alcoholic wines of the past havebeen overtaken by leaner cool climate and earlier picked warm climatefruit. Add to this a greater attention to detail from the winemakers andwe have a wine worth talking about. Here we talk about appropriate oakmanagement, some barrel fermentation and lees stirring at the priceyend and well maintained fresh fruit with balanced acid at the value end. However, one of the dangers that we are noticing is where the pendulum has swung too far and winemakersare picking the fruit a touch too green, resulting in thin featureless wines, or wines that are simply too green andtart. Then to build flavour some are pressing the fruit too hard, thereby creating a hard bitter finish on some of thewines and a loss of freshness. Ah, the joys of winemaking! This year we found that wines in the $30 – $50 chardonnay categories struggled as winemakers were aiming tomake the ultimate chardonnay and sometimes overworking the wine or not getting the balance of oak, acid andfruit right. Strangely, last year it was the middle priced $20 – $30 categories that struggled, whilst this year thatprice range performed well. Fortunately across the board we were mightily impressed with the top wines acrossall price categories. We also had some excellent wines to recommend in this issue from our annual regional tastings; Central & WesternVictoria, which covers the central band of that state, Barossa Valley from South Australia and Michael Cooper’s paneljudging of the Marlborough wines of New Zealand. We love doing these tastings as we involve local winemakerswho are often tougher on their own wines than outsiders and enjoy doing a peer evaluation of their neighbours. For our style tasting this time we focused on the Mediterranean varietals of Italy and Spain with a very goodrepresentation of wines from the “Old Countries” to compare with locally produced versions of those varieties. Itmakes for very interesting reading as the results differed from one varietal to another and one style to another. I trust that you will find some enjoyable wines to try in this wide arrange of choices, with some becoming yournew favourites. In the meantime I am putting together my winery invitations for the upcoming Winestate tour ofFrance in September. I hope that I can share this experience with some of you and share a glass or three. Somuch wine, so little time!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher

briefsSCHMIDT SIGNS ON TAKE YOUR PICKWINEMAKER and Nobel Prize-winning astronomer, Professor WHEN Howard Anderson left Griffith high school in 1964Brian Schmidt has joined the board of the Australian Wine he was offered three jobs: one with the CSIRO, one with theResearch Institute (AWRI) as a special qualifications director. Water Commission or one as a trainee winemaker at the localBoard chair Peter Dawson said: “The AWRI is delighted to winery, Rossetto’s.welcome such a high-calibre scientist as a new board member. He chose the latter. He said it sounded interesting. Fifty yearsProfessor Schmidt brings to the AWRI Board a unique combination later, the winemaker now with his own winery, Anderson Wineryof scientific excellence, wine industry knowledge and relevant in Rutherglen, still finds the wine life pretty attractive. What’s keptboard experience.” Schmidt is a distinguished professor at the it interesting?Australian National University Research School of Astronomy A winemaking stint at Seppelt in Great Western in 1971 startedand Astrophysics. He shared the 2011 Nobel Prize for Physics him down the track of sparkling wine production and in particular,with Saul Perlmutter and Adam G. Riess for the discovery of the sparkling shiraz. Today he makes a number of sparklings, fromaccelerating expansion of the universe. He is also the owner- shiraz to chenin blanc to muscat and even durif.operator of Maipenrai Vineyard and Winery in the Canberra In 2006, his daughter Christobelle joined him in the winery as co-District - a small producer of high-quality pinot noir. winemaker turning out traditional Rutherglen reds, the odd fortified as well as those under-rated Rutherglen sparklings. To celebrate 50 years, the Andersons plan some celebratory dinners in Rutherglen and capital cities. REDUCTING FOOTPRINTS CARBON footprinting remains a hot topic for Australian wineries, with two leading makers working hard to reduce theirs. Sirromet Wines has newly installed a 200-kilowatt solar power system that it hopes will reduce its annual carbon footprint by more than 400 tonnes. Two of the winery’s biggest buildings at its Mount Cotton winery outside Brisbane now have 800 photovoltaic solar panels attached to their roofs. The panels are expected to save the producer around $50,000 a year. Meanwhile, Tahbilk in Central Victoria has recorded a zero net balance of its carbon emissions for 2012. The company achieved the result through onsite reductions, sequestering 31 per cent of its carbon footprint through re-vegetation while the rest was offset through buying carbon credits.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32712 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

briefsDOMAINE EXPANSION UP IN THE CLOUDSDOMAINE Chandon has expanded its MINISTRY of Clouds is the name of a new range of wines developedpremium vineyard holdings outside the by two of the wine industry’s bright young talents, Julian Forwood,Yarra Valley with the acquisition of Whitlands previously with Wirra Wirra, and Bernice Ong, ex Woodstock. “Aftervineyard in the King Valley from Brown a shared 25 years in the wine industry, Ministry of Clouds marksBrothers. Sitting at an elevation of 800- the relinquishing of our past security and structure for the beguiling850m, the vineyard was established in 1981 freedom, independence and adventure inherent in this, our ownand is one of the highest and coolest in voice,” the Adelaide-based duo says. They have released five winesVictoria. It has a strong history of producing - an outstanding Tasmanian chardonnay that reflects their shared loveexceptional sparkling and table grapes. of chablis, a riesling from the Clare Valley and wines using tempranillo,Located 55km south of Milawa, the vineyard grenache and shiraz from McLaren Vale. The 2012 Ministry of Cloudshas 58ha of established vines with potential Chardonnay is a blend of fruit from Panorama in the Huon Valleyfor expansion. “We’re delighted to be taking and Marion’s Vineyard in the Tamar. Whole-bunch pressed andon this vineyard,” says Domaine Chandon wild fermented (in conjunction with Pete Dredge at Bay of Fires), itestate director Susan Caudry. “We’ve been looking for a premier cool- has already attracted rave reviews. The range also includes a 2013climate, high-altitude vineyard and this Whitlands vineyard delivers on riesling from the Clare Valley (made at Crabtree, with help from Kerrithe diversity and quality required for Chandon’s wines.” The purchase Thompson), tempranillo, grenache and shiraz from McLaren Vale,of the Whitlands vineyard expands Domaine Chandon’s vineyard where winemaker Tim Geddes offers guidance and winemakingownership to three premium Victorian vineyards. Domaine Chandon’s facilities. For details see www.ministryofclouds.com.au.Green Point Vineyard in Yarra Valley was established in 1986, followedby a Strathbogie Ranges vineyard in 1994. The first grapes under thenew ownership will be harvested for the 2014 vintage.MUMM AND DADD HAVE WORDSA LIGHT-HEARTED dig at the French has backfired for McLaren Valewine producer, d’Arenberg. The company’s release of a sparklingwine labelled, Dadd, has brought the ire of giant French winemakerPernod Ricard, producer of the prestigious Champagne label,Mumm. Pernod Ricard failed to see the Aussie humour and hasasked d’Arenberg to withdraw the name from sale. “I don’t thinkanyone could get their Mum confused with their Dad,” quippedd’Arenberg’s Chester Osborn. However, with the threat of legal actionhe has decided to withdraw the wine label over the next 15 months. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsCELEBRATING ST HUGO EUROPEAN INSPIRATIONTHE St Hugo label has enjoyed something of a schizophrenic history CLARE Valley producer Kirrihill Wines looked to Europe for thesince being launched 30 years ago. Originally St Hugo was a stand- inspiration behind its latest release wines - a vermentino, fiano,alone label for the Orlando company, consisting of just one wine - a montelpulciano, nebbiolo, sangiovese and a grenache/sangiovese/top-notch Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon that has enjoyed a huge tempranillo blend. Sourced from both Adelaide Hills and Clare Valleyreputation. The label changed to Jacobs Creek St Hugo and recently fruit, the wines in the new alternative range also feature labels showingto simply St Hugo, with a small credit to original company founders architectural style images of the Kirrihill winery. The new range was theG. Gramp and Sons. There are now four wines in the range rather brainchild of now departed winemaker Donna Stephens and has beenthan one – but the winemaking is in the hands of a direct descendant completed by new senior winemaker Hamish Seabrook, who workedof the Gramp family, the sixth generation to be involved, Sam Kurtz. closely with local growers. “We’re trying to bend things,” SeabrookHugo Gramp, after whom the St Hugo wines are named, became says. “We’re not being conventional, and we don’t want to be likemanaging director of the family business G. Gramp and Sons in everyone else. We want to do things differently. To come up with the1920 when he was 25, and his visionary leadership saw the business style we did, we looked at alternative varietals and began to pick apartprogress to become a pillar of the Australian wine industry. He was what the Italians were doing. It’s all about texture.” Seabrook says thatalso responsible for the establishment of the main winery and cellar the Clare Valley was an ideal spot to grow fruit for the range, and thatbuildings that stand today. Kurtz, who has been making St Hugo the region has the potential to establish itself as a leader in Australiawines for over 15 years, says he is inspired by history when he when it comes to Italian styles of wine. “Alternative grape varietalsmakes the wines. “When crafting each St Hugo wine, I am always work really well in the Clare Valley climate,” he says. “It’s somethingmindful to uphold the impeccable quality that Hugo Gramp would a lot of Clare growers are getting into and the more I speak to them,have expected,” he says. The 30-year milestone for St Hugo was the more they come to us and ask what to plant. We tend to suggestmarked during the Savour event in Adelaide, with the release of the tempranillo, sangiovese, vermentino and fiano. The more people2010 vintage of St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon, which Kurtz says has start playing around with them, the more diverse the Clare Valley willall the classic hallmarks of the label. become and we’ll see more interest generated in the region.”The full St Hugo range now comprises St Hugo CoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon 2010, St Hugo Barossa Shiraz 2010, St Hugo RECOGNISING THE BESTBarossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2010 and St Hugo Shiraz Cabernet2009. All retail for between $45-50. MEMBERS of the Barossa community have launched a new scheme for recognising the achievements of best-practice regional food,AN ERA ENDS wine and tourism experiences - the Barossa Trust Mark. Using the tagline “Barossa Trust Mark - Our Promise Kept”, the mark is a logoONE of Australia’s great wine men, Dr Bryan Coombe, died in Adelaide granted under licence to companies, products and experiences thatin January. He was aged 86. demonstrate exemplary achievement and distinction across five areasDr Coombe was an educator and scientist who started his career in of value creation in the food, wine and tourism sectors – origin, quality,the 1950s as the viticultural officer with the South Australia Department integrity, environment and community. The licences are granted onof Horticulture. In 1956 he worked as research assistant in the a 12-month cycle and require annual renewal, ensuring that only theDepartment of Enology at the University of California before returning most up-to-date and achievement-oriented businesses are recognisedto a position with the University of Adelaide, lecturing in horticulture. as being at the region’s vanguard for food, wine and tourism. LindaDr Coombe was the author of 152 research papers as well as the Bowes, Barossa Trust Mark Incorporation chair says: “The possibilityco-editor of two volumes on viticulture. He was also the Australian of marketing wine, food and tourism together has been apparent forwine industry’s first recipient of a Fullbright Scholarship. many years, but this is the first time the representative bodies of these sectors have come together to establish and promote one common aspirational mark for all consumers to recognise.” The official launch took place at John and Jan Angas’ Hutton Vale property.14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

briefs FIRST RELEASE BACK TO THE BOXES TOLPUDDLE Vineyard in WHAT’S old is new again in the Tasmania’s Coal River Valley world of wine, with casks set to enjoy was the brainchild of oenologist new-found popularity if the Hill-Smith Tony Jordan, winemaker Garry family gets it right with a relaunch of Crittenden and the Casimaty the former favourite. The Winesmiths, family, who planted it 25 years based in the Barossa Valley, recently ago to provide sparkling wine released four new varietals in the grapes for Domaine Chandon. 2-litre box, a retro classic that is billed Over the years, the 20ha of as being both convenient and eco- chardonnay and pinot noir vines friendly, and perfect for weekend have provided fruit for some of outings. The Winesmiths’ casks offer the top labels in the country, easy storage and lack of waste along ranging from Eileen Hardy with a quality that many previous Chardonnay to Heemskerk casks lacked - wine of similar or better sparkling wine. The first quality to that found in cheaper bottles. The stars of the range are wines under the new vineyard a 2012 chardonnay and 2012 tempranillo, along with a pinot grigio ownership of Michael Hill-Smith and shiraz. All retail for $18.99, meaning each glass costs less thanand Martin Shaw, from Adelaide Hills winery Shaw+Smith, were a dollar. Each of the casks is made from 100% South Australian fruitrecently unveiled at a series of lunches across the country. Shaw and is vegan and vegetarian-friendly. Nick Waterman from distributorsand Hill-Smith said at the Hobart launch that they envision the Samuel Smith and Son says initial reaction to the new casks has beenTolpuddle Vineyard label eventually becoming an Australian single- extremely positive.vineyard icon alongside famous names like Henschke Hill of Graceand Brokenwood Graveyard. The debut Tolpuddle Vineyard wines CHATTO TAKES CHARGEis a 2012 chardonnay and a 2012 pinot noir. Hill-Smith and Shawpurchased the vineyard, which is planted 50-50 with chardonnay JIM Chatto, the new chief winemaker at McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant,and pinot noir in July 2011 and have viticulturist Ray Guerin and had to cut short a break in Tasmania to return for the start of whatvineyard manager Carlos Souris continually working on improving was a very early vintage in the Hunter Valley. Chatto, only the fourththe quality of fruit. The first Tolpuddle Vineyard wines come from a winemaker at the Hunter Valley icon since 1921, has a country retreat,highly acclaimed vintage, one of the state’s finest of recent years and his own small vineyard, in the Huon Valley south of Hobart, whereand the two wines reflect that. “Our aim is to take Tasmanian single- he grows tiny quantities of pinot noir for his own Chatto label. Thevineyard wines to the world, and we are certainly very happy with 2012 sold out within a few weeks and orders are being taken onlinethe way we have started,” says Shaw. The Tolpuddle Vineyard for the 2013. Chatto, who took over at Mount Pleasant in mid-2013takes its name from the Tolpuddle martyrs, who were transported succeeds recently retired Phil Ryan. The revered and celebratedas convicts to Tasmania from England in the 1830s for forming Mount Pleasant founder Maurice O’Shea held the role between 1921an agricultural union and their leader George Loveless lived and and 1956, followed by his successor Brian Walsh, who oversaw theworked on the property. winemaking until 1978. Chatto, previously chief winemaker at Pepper Tree, acknowledges the huge debt owed to Ryan by Mount Pleasant.WORLD FIRST “Phil Ryan has been a great champion of our region, an enormously accomplished winemaker and mentor to many. I am deeply honouredTHE University of Adelaide has created the world’s first database of to be Phil’s successor and be part of the incredible wine story thatwinegrapes and regions. is Mount Pleasant.”Some of the database findings confirm what winemakers havesuspected, that white winegrapes may have dominated the wine worldin the 1990s but since the Noughties red winegrapes have becamemore prominent. Similarly, the rustic all-rounder airen, a Spanish whitewinegrape once ruled but today it is the classic Bordeaux red grapevariety, cabernet sauvignon, that is the most widely planted grapein the world. Researchers believe this may be in keeping with thegrowth of plantings and exports of cabernet sauvignon to China, thefastest growing wine market in the world with a strong taste for redwine, notably cabernet.The University of Adelaide research was funded by the Grape andWine Research and Development Corporation (GWRDC), and is saidto represent 99 per cent of global wine production. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsCELEBRATING 30 YEARS about making wines that are true to your site. I’m not going to go out and make something freaky; it is just about tuning andMARC and Eva Besen fell in love with the wines of Burgundy tweaking and if you get good fruit you don’t need to tinker toowhen they honeymooned in France in 1950. Then, in 1983, much in the winery.”after years of success in the fashion business, they plantedchardonnay and pinot noir vines in one of the most beautiful BRANCHING OUTparts of the Yarra Valley. And in 1988 they released the first winesfrom what they named TarraWarra Estate. The Besens recently AFTER 17 years as viticulturist and more recently as generalmarked the 30th birthday of the planting of the first vines on what manager at Mitchelton Wines, John Beresford has moved on.is regarded as one of the Yarra’s best vineyards. TarraWarra However, he hasn’t gone very far.Estate is now home to a hi-tech winery, one of the best cellar He now takes on the new role of general manager of the Nagambiedoor restaurants in the country and the spectacular TarraWarra Development Company formed by the Ryan family, ownersMuseum of Modern Art (the Besens are among the country’s most of the Mitchelton winery, to oversee the development of theirgenerous arts benefactors). At the time the vines were planted, commercial properties in and around the Nagambie township.chardonnay was a relative newcomer and pinot noir grown by In his place, chief winemaker Travis Clydesdale steps up atonly a handful of adventurous Yarra Valley vignerons- Mount Mary, Mitchelton to become general manager as well as overseeingYeringberg and St Huberts among them. “So many people at that all winemaking and viticultural operations. His first job mighttime didn’t even know what pinot noir was,” Besen recalled. “It’s well be to resurrect one of Mitchelton’s signature features, twoalways been a great challenge for us but we set out to achieve rows of old lemon trees that once lined the long driveway intothe absolute best, aiming for quality right from the start.” Under the winery, but which were removed last year. Unbeknownst toClare Halloran, winemaker since 1997, all of TarraWarra’s wines Clydesdale the decision was taken to pull them out and replaceare grown, hand-picked, vinified and aged on the estate, which them with eucalyptus trees. Eucalyptus trees are known tohas 3km of Yarra Valley river frontage. “Basically, our thrust is influence the taste of wine, lending a distinctive minty character.all about getting it right in the vineyard,” says Halloran. “It’s all Some wine judges consider it close to a fault. Will they stay or go? ALDILiquor aldiliquor.com.au Over 200 wine, beer and spirits are available at your fingertips from our every day range and exciting special buys. Order now on your smartphone, tablet or desktop for quality liquor delivered straight to your door. free metro delivery when you spend over $300† Delivery charges are on a per case basis. (†Excludes Beer and RTD’s. This offer is valid for selected Eastern Seaboard Delivery locations only.) ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18. On-line sales made pursuant to the Authority of packaged liquor licence no: LIQP77001027816 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

briefsFRENCH CONNECTION been amazing,” reports Jacob Stein. “And the venue is still gaining momentum.” The eatery is open for breakfast at weekends fromFORMER Mitchelton winemaker, Ben Haines, has been kept 8.30am, for lunch Thursday-Sunday from noon and for dinnerbusy since departing the Central Victorian winery a few Thursday-Saturday from 6pm. Pipeclay Pumphouse, Robert Steinyears ago. He has been investing his time in concentrating Vineyard & Winery, Pipeclay Lane, Mudgee; phone (02) 6373 3998.on marsanne (looks like he caught the marsanne bug while www.pipeclaypumphouse.com.au.at Mitchelton) and syrah (shiraz), and travelling to Europe forsome winemaking inspiration. His latest wine, a 2012 Flute SOLAR FUTURED’Armour rose from the La Verriere vineyard in Ventoux in thesouth of France is a blend of grenache and syrah (shiraz), d’ARENBERG has launched its new solar photovoltaic (PV)and is released under his Ben Haines label. Le Verriere is fast generator - the largest installed in a South Australian winery.becoming a special place for Haines. He’s been making wine The solar system will generate around 20-30 per cent of thethere since 2010. electricity use of d’Arenberg’s manufacturing process and will reduce greenhouse gas emissions at the site. d’Arry Osborn,NEW STYLE third-generation owner, can still recall the day when electricity was connected at d’Arenberg in 1951. “When I first started working wePIPECLAY Pumphouse, operated by winemaker Jacob Stein’s had Clydesdale horses to plough the vineyards,” he said. “We didn’tsister Lara and her chef husband Andy Crestani, is part of the even have a tractor, and we used generators run by kerosene. IRobert Stein cellar door complex and an exciting addition to the never thought that one day we would produce our own electricity,”culinary landscape in Mudgee. Opened in October 2013, the new he says. The Osborn family has owned and operated the d’Arenbergeatery is a new style of restaurant for Mudgee, where the majority property at McLaren Vale for over 100 years, and the goal of theof produce is home grown or locally sourced and served in a current custodians is to pass on a sustainable business to the nextrelaxed atmosphere. The menu changes from season to season generation. d'Arenberg has already invested in a number of projectsdepending on what is available locally. “The early feedback has with environmental benefits. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsCELEBRATING FAMILY HERITAGE STORAGE SOLUTIONSTHE new year was a time of change at what was previously INNOVATIVE wine storage and tasting lounge Artisan Wineknown as Westend Estate, producers of some of Australia’s Storage has launched in Sydney. Dedicated to the properbest value wines under labels including Three Bridges, care and management of wine, the $2million facility offers aRichland and Calabria Private Bin. Bill Calabria, the teetotal fully integrated, third party logistics service from warehousinghead of the family-owned business, announced that Westend to full supply chain management. Artisan Wine Storage hasEstate would now be known as Calabria Family Wines. Founded also established a network of vertical sales channel partnersin 1945 by Italian migrants Francesco and Elisabetta Calabria, which provides trade clients the ability to sell wine online.the Riverina winery is going back to its roots with the name Artisan Wine Storage built a climate-controlled warehousechange, which is a major undertaking for a producer that that offers a constant12C (the only such facility in the southernmakes more than 300,000 cases of wine a year. From humble hemisphere). The wine tasting lounge is designed to be abeginnings in Griffith, 68 years on the Calabria family - twice perfect wine-centric facility for trade customers to showcasenamed Family Business of the Year - has 12 different brands, wines to their clients and ArtisanWine Storage’s client base.60 employees and exports to 25 different countries. Third- Located 15 minutes from Sydney’s CBD in Lane Cove,generation family member Andrew Calabria, the sales and Artisan Wine Storage’s integrated solutions are available tomarketing manager, says: “My family and I have made wine Australian and overseas wineries, wholesalers, retailers,all our lives. We embody family heritage and passion, and the auction houses, or liquidators, as well as private collectors.name change to Calabria Family Wines will represent the next Artisan Wine Storage corporate members are also able tostep in our journey. We have a strong business and believe we enjoy Methuselah’s Cellar. This space displays museum winesneed to differentiate ourselves from today’s corporate world of from many renowned wineries, including the only public, dualwinemaking by highlighting we are the family behind the wines. vertical display of Penfolds Grange bottles (1951-2008) andThe change in name also honours the extraordinary efforts of magnums (1979-2008).our father, Bill Calabria, who has been an inspiration to each Artisan Wine Storage, Unit 2, 7-9 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West.and every member of the family. We see the Calabria name on www.artisanwinestorage.com.au.every bottle being a flag-bearer for our personal involvement.”Former boxer Bill Calabria is probably Australia’s only teetotal A LONG LEGACYwinemaker. He suffers from alcohol intolerance but is onceagain heading the winemaking team following the recent LONGVIEW Vineyard founder and creator of Two Dogs alcoholicdeparture of Bryan Currie to McWilliam’s Hanwood. lemonade, Duncan MacGillivray, died while on holiday with his family in Bali in January. He was 66. The cause of death is believed to have been a heart attack. The South Australian businessman was a highly energised and dynamic entrepreneur with broad business interests covering everything from hotels, beef and grain, to wine and of course, the alcoholic lemonade, Two Dogs, whose creation made him a millionaire. The idea came to him when he was running an Adelaide hotel in 1993 when he tried brewing up a load of excess lemons. The product became a best-selling phenomenon and eventually attracted suitors. MacGillivray sold Two Dogs to Pernod Ricard and with the funds set up Longview Vineyard in the Adelaide Hills.18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

briefsNEW HANGOUT to do. Fancy doing some early morning yoga, clay sculpting, or consulting a naturopath? Maybe a session with a personalSOUTHERN Tasmania has a new wine hangout, with Amy trainer? Fine. Prefer an afternoon snooze on a hammock orRussell and Wine Tasmania head honcho Sheralee Davies day bed. That’s OK, too. The 10ha property offers a busyhaving taken over the lease for what is now known as The day spa centre with 13 treatment rooms, a heated salt waterCoterie at Coal Valley Vineyard. The Coterie has a “short swimming pool, tennis court, hot-tub spa, sauna, steam room,but tasty” menu and will be open 10am-5pm Mondays and walking tracks and its own organic garden that provides manyTuesdays, and until 9pm Thursday-Sunday. There will be an of the herbs and vegetables for the restaurant. The food isexpanded list of wines after 5pm, making it an ideal spot to stop organic and almost entirely locally produced. Breakfast (withoff for anyone heading to or from Hobart Airport. Gill Christian the exception of smoked salmon) and lunch are exclusivelyfrom CVV says: “As well as being able to taste and buy our vegetarian but evening meals may contain fish or poultry. And,wonderful wines, you can also indulge in some delectable whisper it softly, there is actually a wine list featuring organicplatters, coffee and cake as you soak up the spectacular and biodynamic wines available to accompany dinner. Gaiaviews. Functions and groups are welcome, from a hosted Retreat and Spa, 933 Fernleigh Rd, Brooklet; phone (02)wine tasting through to a wedding or other celebration.” The 66871216. www.gaiaretreat.com.au.evening sessions will feature a wide range of Tasmanian winesby the glass, local cider and beer, and accompanying lightmenu options. Always on the menu are cheese, antipastoor ploughman’s platters. The Coterie, 257 Richmond Rd,Cambridge; phone (03) 6248 5367. www.thecoterie.com.au.PERFECT ANTIDOTEWE’VE all felt at some time orother that city life is gettingon top of us; that we’ve beeneating or drinking a little toomuch; that our minds arecluttered, our bodies bloated.Gaia Retreat and Spa, part-owned by Olivia Newton-John, is the perfect antidote.Set in the hills above ByronBay and Bangalow in northernNew South Wales, Gaia is abeautiful, slow-paced ruralhealth resort that is the brainchild of Newton-John and herlong-term friend and business partner Gregg Cave. Guests areoffered individually tailored programs, flexible dates (check-in for a couple of days midweek, or for a long weekend) andcomplete freedom of choice as to which activities they want March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 19

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneLIGHTER ON THE LIPS AND THE HIPS CLAYVIN VINEYARD LEASED BY GIESENWHEN Pernod Ricard NZ launched “naturally lighter alcohol” wines CLAYVIN Vineyard, the source of some of Marlborough’s mostunder the Brancott Estate Flight brand in 2012, it promised: “Wine prestigious chardonnays and pinot noirs under the Fromm brand,lovers can now enjoy the original Marlborough sauvignon blanc has been leased by Giesen Wine Estate for 10 years. When it waswith the same taste and full flavour complexity they would expect”. originally planted in 1991, Clayvin, in the upper Brancott Valley - on theNew Zealand’s largest producer, Constellation NZ, also last year south side of the Wairau Valley - was Marlborough’s first commerciallaunched a trio of Little Harvest wines, “lighter on the lips and the hillside vineyard. Planted principally in pinot noir, with smaller amountships”, to supplement its existing “light” range, Kim Crawford First of chardonnay, syrah and sauvignon blanc, the clay-based vineyard isPick. Low alcohol (typically 9 per cent by volume), reduced calorie, owned by Georg Fromm (who no longer has a stake in Fromm Winery)“lifestyle” wines are now the focus of a $NZ17 million research and Johnny Wheeler (co-owner of The Wine Company, in Colchester,project, to be funded by the industry and the government. “It will England, and formerly managing director of Lay & Wheeler). Muchbe a major boost to the collective brand of New Zealand wine,” of the crop from the 14ha site has previously been sold to other wineenthused Nathan Guy, Primary Industries Minister. The goal is to producers, including Giesen, Pegasus Bay (for its Main Divide label)produce lower alcohol wines by perfecting “natural” production and Huia. Fromm should still be able to draw its customary amount oftechniques - such as reducing the grapes’ exposure to sunlight and fruit (producing about 700 cases) from the site, raising the prospectearlier harvesting - rather than using existing processing methods of Clayvin Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs under two brands,such as reverse osmosis. When UK-based Beveragedaily.com Giesen and Fromm.queried “whether the drive on lower calorie, lower alcohol wineswas making people in the industry nervous, given fears about less THE WINE LOBBYdesirable products that could give the industry a bad name, andraise the suggestion that New Zealand was pushing glorified grape NICOLA Crennan has been appointed to the new post of Externaljuice”, the ministry replied that “lifestyle wines provide a significant Relations Manager for NZ Winegrowers. Based in Wellington,opportunity for market growth”. Surveys report burgeoning Crennan is the industry body’s first fulltime lobbyist. Since the 1950sinternational interest in “healthy” alcoholic drinks. Sales of low such leaders as George Mazuran (president of the Viticulturalalcohol wines in the UK soared by an attention-grabbing 30 per Association), Terry Dunleavy (executive officer of the Wine Institutecent in 2011 and a further 11 per cent in 2012. Many consumers in the 1970s and 1980s) and Philip Gregan (currently CEO of NZbuy lower alcohol wines for particular occasions, when there is a Winegrowers) have all been heavily engaged in pressure groupstrong desire to “stay in control”. politics. Crennan’s past roles include Private Secretary for Tourism and Deputy Director, International Services, Department of Labour.NEW ZEALAND’S FIRST FIANO Her new job reflects the powerful impact of legislation on many aspects of the wine industry, from resource management to tariffs.FIANO was unheard of in New Zealand - until recently. Grown inthe Bridge Pa Triangle, Bushhawk Vineyard Bella’s Block Hawke’s MUD HOUSE SELLSBay Fiano 2013 ($NZ25) is the country’s first bottling of the variety,which is well known and highly regarded in the south of Italy, MUD House, one of the largest South Island wine producers - withespecially Campania and Sicily. Aromatic, citrusy, full-bodied 200ha of vineyards in Waipara, 100ha in Marlborough, 100ha inand crisp, with strong personality, it’s a top debut. Central Otago and wineries in Marlborough and Waipara - has been sold. Formed by a series of mergers and acquisitions in 2005 and 2006, Mud House Wine Group was owned by NZ Vineyard Estates, whose directors included architect Neil Charles-Jones and property developer Ron Stewart. The vineyards have been sold to Hong Kong-based CK Life Sciences, which has leased them to Accolade Wines, whose key Australian brands include Hardys, Banrock Station and Leasingham. Accolade purchased the Mud House brands, including Mud House, Waipara Hills, Hay Maker and Dusky Sound. Accolade’s GM for Australia and New Zealand, Michael East, stated the company was strong in the sub-$15 segment and wanted to expand its presence in the $15-$50 market. “New Zealand is at the premium end. The brands are well known enough but afford us an opportunity. We can expose them fairly quickly to a lot more markets,” he said.20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERMAINTAINING THE MOTIVATIONWE hear a great deal about the link between out. One of my recent Twitter discussions, What have been the key changes in Centralvine age and wine quality but much less about a decanter, led directly to us making a Otago pinot noir since you arrived?about the importance of winegrower age. shipment to the UK.An unstoppable marketer and a notably Since the mid-late 1990s, there’s been aexperienced winemaker share their thoughts Is New Zealand wine marketed well big jump in the number of professionalon their favourite wine region - Central Otago internationally? viticulturists and winemakers, so major- and what keeps them so highly motivated. improvements in site selection, crop levels, When New Zealand approaches markets clonal selection and canopy management.THE MEANING OF LIFE like Beijing and Shanghai, all the wineries We are making better structured wines, are lined up along tables while South getting away from overtly fruity reds toSince the first vintage in 2008 - even before American wineries are doing a similar thing savoury, silky pinot noirs with layers of flavour.the wines hit the shelves - Misha’s Vineyard - only better. We lack innovation.has stood out as one of New Zealand’s mostrelentlessly promoted brands. From 26ha of We are making better structured wines, getting awayvines at Bendigo, north of Cromwell, eachyear Misha Wilkinson and her husband, Andy, from overtly fruity reds to savoury, silky pinot noirsproduce about 10,000 cases of wine, sold in with layers of flavour.20 countries, with a focus on Asia. What is your most satisfying achievement? Central Otago has 5 per cent of theWhy did you plunge into the wine industry? country’s vineyard area but 18 per cent of I stand at the top of our steepest block, its wine producers. Are there too manyTo get meaning out of life. In the corporate overlooking Lake Dunstan. The view is people making too many labels?world, it’s just a cheque - there’s no legacy. By spectacular. And I think: “this was a rock-creating a vineyard, making a wine, building strewn, rabbit-infested bit of Bendigo that Around the world, pinot noir is typically madea brand, you feel you’ve done something with sheep couldn’t survive on. And now…” at small domaines. If you go to Burgundy,your life. they’ll have just one or two barrels of their A PRINCE OF PINOT NOIR grand cru. And lots of people like to live inWhat was your earlier career? Central Otago - it attracts lifestylers who Born in Salzburg, Rudi Bauer worked in want to make their own wine.I’m a failed ballerina - a bit too tall. After Austrian and German wineries beforedancing professionally and then taking a he arrived at the Mission, in Hawke’s Rather than emulating the rich, slightlydegree in music, I worked in a marketing Bay, in 1985. Appointed winemaker at sweet style of Alsace, your pinot gris isrole at the Royal Opera House in London. Rippon Vineyard, Wanaka, in 1989, Bauer crisp and dry. Why is that?Then I got into technology marketing in the has since exerted a behind-the-scenesAsia/Pacific region and spent 17 years in influence on countless Central Otago We’ve always made it to be consumedSingapore, where I met Andy. wines, and today fashions acclaimed pinot in restaurants, where a dry style is more noirs, pinot gris and sparklings under his versatile with food. They drink well at three toWhy did you plant your vineyard in own label, Quartz Reef. five years old; our 2005 is still in great shape.Central Otago? What is it about pinot noir that Your sparkling wines are consistentlyI’m an Aussie but Andy has lots of family intrigues you? impressive, so why does Central Otagoin “Central” and - unlike Marlborough - we produce only a trickle of fizz?thought we could still buy some of the best It’s a variety that gets people thinking,vineyard land there. with flavours and aromas that have been Bubbly production needs a long-term likened to a French railway station. Pinot outlook, because the returns are fasterYou love twitter. Why is it so important? noir always triggers a conversation. It’s a for pinot noir. And it takes ages to get fragile variety, but it’s comfortable with that, recognition for a sparkling wine of superiorI have 7500 followers, which among New and it speaks so much of the land where quality - many consumers just drinkZealand’s winemakers is second only to Sam it is grown. the label.Neill, who I taught how to tweet. Twitter is likebeing at a trade show… I’ve got my shingle March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 21

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWSPAIN’S GAIN LEADS THE WAYFOR the 2013 vintage (undertaken in that of global production data, but the from 2013. The vintage is the third one inthe latter part of the year in the northern OIV wasn’t forecasting an increase in a row that has been tricky for Bordeaux.hemisphere), Europe has not fared too consumption that exceeded the increasebadly, volume-wise. The International in global production. Fruit quality parameters are very differentOrganisation of Wine and Vine (OIV), in Champagne, with high acidity positivelywhich, among other things, collates data Quantity is one thing but quality is sought along with an early, delicateon this subject, said production across quite often something else entirely. ripening. There is excitement about boththe European Union (pretty much covers Focusing on the 2013 vintage in France, the 2012 and 2013 potentially being usedall wine-producing Europe) reached 164 it produced about the same amount of for vintage designation Champagnes. Themillion hectolitres. This is up more than wine as it did in 2012, about 42mhl. But vast majority of Champagne production10 per cent on the exceptionally low this is not saying so much - 2012 was the is non-vintage. It is only in certain years2012 vintage. smallest in around 40 years, having been that vintage bubbles are made. In terms affected by almost every permutation of volume, Champagne’s harvest was up Spain did its bit for Europe, increasing of inclement weather: drought, hail, considerably on 2012, but that was largelythe national crop by some 7.5mhl. Such frost, dampness and the disease that because the region had such a smallan increase represents more than half follows it, kicked off at the beginning harvest in 2012. Flowering was late, asthe total production of Australia. And of the season by destructive cold, wet elsewhere, and so was harvesting.Quantity is one thing but quality is quite often something else entirely.it accounted for a third of the entire flowering conditions across much of the Which is a picture also reflected inincrease in global output. The rest country. No bushfires, I guess. the Loire valley. Late budbreak andmainly coming from France, Romania, flowering was followed at the end ofplus, outside of Europe, Argentina and Bordeaux has not had a great time. A the growing season by rot-inducingthe US. Australia’s contribution to the cold spring compromised flowering, then humidity. Subsequent hailstorms wereincrease in global production was a late summer hailstorms on the right bank pretty selective, targeting Vouvray, wherelittle under 4 per cent of the total, which affected swathes of St Emilion, Pomerol the crop is reported as being down byis pretty much in line with the 5 per and Entre-Deux-Mers, the latter region 40 per cent. Acidity is typically high incent of total global production that the being the engine-room for Bordeaux 2013, and alcohol typically low. A littlecountry typically contributes. Other key volumes. Some 15,000ha were damaged. chaptalisation to boost the alcohol willEuropean countries such as Italy and (That equates to about 10 per cent of alter the balance a little, but one of theFrance produced about the same or the Aussie vineyard area). Production consumption trends in the UK at least ismarginally more than in 2012. was down by about 20 per cent, which for fresh, refreshing, light white wines, and for a big region such as Bordeaux, is the UK is the biggest export destination for There were some rumours circulated significant. Ballpark 1mhl, or some 11 Loire wines, so all is not lost.towards the end of 2013 about million 12-packs. It hasn’t been sincean impending global wine shortage, the devastating frosts of 1991 that so It’s a similar story in Burgundy. Irregularbut a little perspective has shown dramatically affected the merlot crop, flowering, localised hailstorms, this timethese to fall under a possible data especially on the right bank again, that in the north of the Cote de Beaune, latemisinterpretation description. Indeed, Bordeaux has had such a small crop. Not harvest, lots of work and attention to detailworld production in 2013 reached helped by a rainy harvest that year, either. needed in the vineyard all year. Fresh and281mhl its biggest amount in the previous One commentator has even suggested aromatic seems to be the report.seven years. The correlating of global that Bordeaux properties think aboutconsumption data lags a little behind whether they release a “grand vin” at all With regard to the vintage volumes, it may still be too early to say whether22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

the effects of the EU wine sector reform Yorke Peninsula’s- which saw large areas of vineyard award winninguprooted in an effort to bring supply vineyardbetter into line with demand - haveindeed stabilised production at ongoinglower levels. One other strand of the EU-widereform has only recently been finalised.The ability to plant vines in the EU isstrictly controlled. It has been plannedto abolish all controls on planting, whichwould have enabled vines to be plantedanywhere, if someone thought they couldmake a viable business proposition. Andindeed the planting rights system willfinish at the end of 2015. But it won’tjust end, something new is coming into replace it. What was finally agreed atthe end of last year, was a new system ofplanting authorisation. Member countriesare allowed to plant the equivalent of 1per cent of their national vineyard areaeach year, from 2016. This agreement has taken a whileto reach because of the fears thatabolishing planting rights might leadto lots of new plantings which wouldre-install the situation of regular andlarge overproduction that the winesector reform has been working torebalance, quite ferociously, since thebeginning of its implementation in 2008.Additionally fears that new vineyardswould be planted on high-yielding,easy to farm, land, leading to an erosionof quality, making it more difficult fortraditional regions (appellations) tocompete etc. A key strand of strategyto rebalance overproduction was athree-year program of subsidies given togrowers who uprooted their vines. The1 per cent agreement seems to havecalmed nerves. Sounds small. But 1 percent of, for example, France’s 760,000hais still 7600ha. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY HEAD IN THE PINKAGE, lifestyles, gender and image can all play Act Two and you will see what I mean. Its red grapes and then fermenting them withouta part in deciding what to drink. Youngsters French art deco label wouldn’t look out of the skins. It allows the remaining red wine tomight drink moscato; oldies like durif, while place on the table in the Moulin Rouge. have a higher juice-to-skin ratio and thereforedrinking pinot noir may be regarded as a produce a more concentrated red wine thansign of an educated palate; or a fat wallet. In In Australia we don’t have a clear region that it would have originally achieved. BasicallyAustralia, “blokes” drink full-bodied shiraz, specialises in rosé, you find them at all points the winemaker makes two different winesthe bigger the better; while “girls” prefer on the compass. Often a hot climatic region out of the one batch of grapes. The roséwell-chilled Marlborough sauvignon blanc. can make as delicious a one as a cool climate juice is fermented, like a white wine, and itWhen it comes to rosé wines, well they are and it is more a fact of whether the winemaker might be cut short to retain some sweetnesspink and we all know pink is for girls, don’t has invested the time, energy and resources producing an off-dry style. More commonlywe? I’m having a joke here or is there some to make a serious wine. But internationally, it is fermented out to dryness.truth in it? I must confess to knowing some rosé has a number of spiritual homes. Inwell-educated gents that wouldn’t be seen France you find them in Anjou in the Loire With Castagna’s Allegro Rosé, Castagnadead drinking a rosé. It makes you wonder if Valley as well as Tavel in the Southern Rhone uses shiraz grapes from the same vineyardthis is one reason why rosé is not given more Valley. Tavel is nearly unique being a rosé- from which he make his top Genesis wine.prominence both by producers and drinkers. only French appellation. Located a few miles “It is a mixture of juice that is saigneed fromYou don’t often find a winery boasting their from Chateauneuf du Pape it shares some of Genesis fruit and from some rows that aremost prestigious wine is a rosé. the same soils and grape varieties, nine in placed in a tank and foot trodden, with fact: grenache, syrah, cinsault, mourvedre, the juice sucked up as it is released. After But thankfully the tide is turning somewhat. clairette, bourboulenc, carignan, picpoul that we treat it as if we were making whiteThere is now a stream of rosé wines thatdemonstrate a serious side to this style. None The wines should retain their acidity and be gently aromatic,more so than Castagna, located in prettyBeechworth, Victoria. Julian Castagna at and can reflect their varietal origins.this small, but important biodynamic winery,admits that his rosé wine is close to his heart and calitor. Tavel is regarded as the beefiest wine, fermented all in old French barrelsand happily thinks the Australian pink scene expression of rosé and can tip the scales at of course. It spends about a year in barrelhas brightened with more producers paying 13 or 14 per cent alcohol. They obtain their and then about six months in bottle beforerespectful homage to the wine. colour by undergoing a prefermentation release… when market pressures allow,” maceration for one to three days before he adds. While we still see rosé wines produced as pressing and then fermenting as a whitean after-thought, and yet another addition to wine. Cotes de Provence is another south Fermenting in barrel is often a clear sign ofthe cellar door range, they provide a bridge eastern France region that specialises in a serious rosé, as well as a premium price.for drinkers between white and red wine, rosé. Cinsault and grenache are again used, Barrels add more mouth feel and complexity,and can have characteristics of both types. sometimes with the addition of tibouren an and a touch of wood tannins. Colours shouldAttractive red fruit aromas, some snappy old traditional red with an earthy scent. Loire be on the pale side rather than too dark aacidity, a whiff of oak, a slight fleshy, phenolic Valley uses completely different grapes: red. As well as syrah and grenache, youmouthfeel or a dash of sweetness can all be cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, gamay can find cabernet sauvignon, sangiovesefound in good glass. They are often food and grolleau. Entering the Iberian Peninsula, and pinot noir being used in Australia. Thefriendly and can match an array of dishes, the Spanish region of Navarra is famous for wines should retain their acidity and be gentlyincluding tuna, salmon, risotto, paella or rosé and uses predominately the garnacha aromatic, and can reflect their varietal origins.spicier Asian cuisine. (grenache) to make light, refreshing rosados So pinot noir-based rosé should have cherry (rosé wine). Portugal has its infamous Mateus or strawberry aromas, cabernet sauvignon Rosé drinkers drink the colour first. It’s pretty brand, a rosé made famous after WWII. -blackcurrant, sangiovese - black cherryto look at and it seduces you. Gazing into a etc. Floral or spicy aromas come from moreglass opens up a whole new vocabulary of Producers can either make a wine from serious wines.descriptors. Pink, blush, rose petal, orange, grapes that have been reserved especiallysalmon, or onion skin have been used to to make a rosé or choose the Saignee Choose a hot summer’s day and serve itdescribe the colour, always presented in a method. This is the process of bleeding a nicely chilled to discover these delightfulclear bottle. Even the label can be ornate, small amount of free-run juice from a tank of wines which deserve to escape fromsimply grab a bottle of De Bortoli La Boheme being stereotyped.24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

ITALIAN FOODCONCEPT is acompany specificallydedicated to creatingor renovating foodconcepts, franchisingstrategies andspecialty food shops.We develop your ideas and offer:→ Interior design solutions→ Brand consultation→ Image coordination→ Product development March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 25

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING GROWING THE GLORY DAYS IT’S hardly credible today that anyone that rich Asian wine collectors drank biodynamic French wines. But for thecould have envisaged that Hong Kong’s Petrus and Coca-Cola. A growing ultimate French treat, Monsieur Chatteglory days would become a faded number of Hong Kong wine shops have has two shops in Sheung Wan and Tsimmemory following the former British also morphed into leading educational Sha Tsui which offer French goodiesterritory’s handover to China in the late centres where tourists can also pop in for such as foie gras and galette des Roi,1990s. The influx of mainland Chinese a tasting such as The Flying Winemaker and a truly smashing wine collectionto Hong Kong over the past decade and Amo Eno, the only Hong Kong wine from Louis Roederer Cristal vintageshas changed the face of Asia’s top bar fitted with LCD tables which offers to Laurent Miquel Viognier Verite fromshopping destination and it’s now even up to 70 tasting wines. Languedoc.more exciting and throbbing with activitythan ever before. Last year, 35 million The Nose Wine School in Central is The only major tourist activity whichtourists flowed over the border to spend operated by Stefano Yim and operates rivals shopping in Hong Kong is eating.$24.5 billion in the Special Administrative as a wine bar when classes end. Over 40 restaurants boast MichelinRegion’s (SAR) mega-malls, bars, hotels Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux stars and one recipient is Tim Ho Wanand restaurants. remain hot favourites in Hong Kong (timhowan.com) with four locations and the etc wine shops cater to all across town. No reservations and it’s In few other areas has their impact three “addictions”. Bordeaux etc is in eyeball-to-eyeball with your fellow dinersbeen more noticeable than in Hong Causeway Bay and stocks over 1200 but you won’t munch into better dim sumHong Kong has become a petri dish for wine retail and it’s not unusual these days tosee wine bars and shops touting bottlings from Crimea and Wales.Kong’s thirst for wine. Henry Tang, the vintages, while Champagne etc and from lor mei gai (rice dumplings) to siuformer Chief Secretary for Administration Burgundy etc are in Central. mai (pork and prawn dumplings) andof Hong Kong and one of the world’s char siu bao (barbequed pork buns).greatest wine collectors, removed As the South China Morning Postthe taxes on imported wines in 2008. pointed out recently, Hong Kong has Paco Roncero is the protege of FerranWithin a few years, the SAR became the become a petri dish for wine retail and Adria, legendary chef at El Bulli inworld’s number one auction market for it’s not unusual these days to see wine Barcelona which won the best restaurantfine wines, with sales passing $US229 bars and shops touting bottlings from in the world title five times. He now runsmillion in 2011. Over the past two years, Crimea and Wales. My druthers nearly the kitchen at View 62 (view62.com) inthe number of wine store chains in Hong always involve a tight circle of some Wan Chai’s Hopewell Center, a revolvingKong has doubled and Watson’s is the of Hong’s best specialist wine shops restaurant that takes 110 minutes to scanclear market leader. such as Bacchus & Century in Lan the Hong Kong skyline. The menu veers Kwai Fong for those with very expensive from Chinese-inspired to Spanish, with For the wine tourist, Honkers has tastes. For the best Californian boutique key dishes such as Hong Kong octopusbecome one of the greatest tasting wines, head to the CV Wine Bar in Wan salad and caldo di cocido, a twist on thedestinations. The great names of British Chai, where you can sample reasonably famous Spanish beef stew.wine retailing - Berry Bros & Rudd and priced wines from the bar’s EnomaticCorney & Barrow - are very much in dispensers. For true Chinese fusion, “demon chef”evidence, as are a standing army of Alvin Cheung has the style nailed at Bointernational wine consultants. The La Cabane a Vin is a recreation of Innovation (boinnovation.com). Sportingdays are long gone when people joked an authentic wine bistro in Hollywood spiky hair and tatts, Leung is treated like Road and specialises in organic and a rock god for his signature dan dan26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

noodles and Chinese take on foie gras. If hot bar addresses have becomeneed-to-know travel info in every city,magnify the trend 10-fold in Hong Kong.Quinar y (quinar y.hk) is the currentfront-runner in the must-go stakes. Bartender Antonio Lai claims the bar is thefirst micro-distillery in Hong Kong andit shows in trademark “food-science”drinks such as bloody mary with wasabi-infused vodka and Earl Grey caviarmartini. South America is having a momenton the Hong Kong bar scene withrecent openings such as Havana Bar(havanabar.com.hk), with the largestselection of rums in town, and TheRoger Room - as in jolly as you’re goingto be after a couple of Peruvian ciscos.Molecular cocktails are the rage at RulaBula (rulabula.com.hk), run by IrishmanCathal Kiely. Open until very late it’s theplace to be for the top DJs and plentyof dance room. The Hong Kong outposts of the leadingmultinational hotel chains are legendeven among their sister properties, but Iam a big fan of HK’s boutique properties.If you don’t want to pay $$$$$ prices,The Fleming (thefleming.com) in WanChai is on-the-money for business tripswith a leisure add-on. With only 66rooms, this is as stylish as it gets withoutpaying big bucks. The Hullett House Hotel (hulletthouse.com) centres on the redevelopmentof the former Marine Police HQ. Thestucco 19th century facade also housesboutiques and restaurants, in addition tothe hotel’s 10 themed suites from EnglishRegency to up-market Chinese. Part ofthe Leading Hotels of the World Group,so luxury is a given. Have a pint in theMariner’s Rest, a pub housed in theformer holding cells.

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON BACK IN SYDNEY, AND LYDIA CRAWFORD’S OFFERWHILE Andre Simon wined and dined privilege of tasting these wines myself”. connected with the wine scene aroundhis way around New South Wales, But unfortunately Simon’s program was the world. She was an amazing womanarrangements were still being made full and the invitation had to be declined. with an incredible presence. Lydia wasfor the rest of his visit to Australia and Gibson’s letter to Mrs Crawford was a still shareholder (much depleted) inNew Zealand. Matters did not always model of polite regret: “On behalf of Reynella until the takeover by Rothmans.run smoothly, and occasionally, on Monsieur Simon I wish to thank you for And she still sent down a case ofreading the Wine and Food Society’s such a charming invitation…The wines Bordeaux etc for the winemakers everycorrespondence and other items about you mentioned would certainly have year. Highly opinionated but dashingthe visit, you can sense some of the been a treat”. in a womanly way and with the mosttension. Everyone wanted to meet the crystalline and fearsome defiant eyes,great man. People were offended if they Gibson apparently did not realise that she was an amazing woman with anwere excluded from functions. Many of Lydia Crawford was a member of the incredible presence”.the wine and food societies in Australia famous South Australian winegrowingwere for men only, and most if not all of the family, the Reynells. She was born Lydia Just a few weeks later, when he wasleading industry figures were men. Simon Reynell, the great-grand-daughter of in Adelaide, Simon met Ian Thomas,said on several occasions that he did not John Reynell, founder of Reynella; grand- who was chairman of Reynella andapprove of all-male dinners. daughter of Walter Reynell, winemaker; grandson of Walter Reynell’s sister. If and daughter of Carew Reynell, who Lydia Crawford’s name came into the conversation it is not recorded.Full house! Full marks! exclaimed the grateful Simon. Simon’s first meal in 1964 was not One offer which could not be was also a winemaker and who died at surprisingly at the Belvedere Hotel inaccommodated came from a woman with Gallipoli. Lydia Crawford, who grew up at Kings Cross, his home away from home.an interesting story to tell. In December Reynella, has another claim to fame - she He was the guest for lunch of the1963, Mrs Lydia Crawford wrote to is the grandmother of Andrew Caillard MW. proprietor, George Naher, and Paulineher friend Johnnie Walker of Rhine Naher. It was “a simple, intimate, andCastle Wines in Sydney, hoping that Andrew has provided some details of truly enjoyable meal,” recalled Simon,Simon would be able to visit her “for this remarkable woman: “She was very but he doesn’t tell us what it was. Thata night or two if possible and we can involved with the Confrerie des Chevaliers evening, January 1, 1964, he and hissample some wines worthy of such an du Tastevin and was a Commandeur. friend Rudy Komon were the guestsoccasion”. Among the wines were a She used to host special dinners and of the management of the Chevron1907 Reynella, a 1933-bottled Caldwell of course they (she and her husband Hotel. It was quite a different affair,of Hunter origin, a Maurice O’Shea 1940 Kenneth Crawford) were friends of Sir with the meal being “very good but notred named what appears to be Belvale, Robert Menzies and many Canberra sensational” - Coquilles St Jacques andand a 1945 Lindemans Bin 40/80 Hunter identities of the time. They also supported Boeuf Bourguignon. On the other hand,River Burgundy which had won first Len Evans and participated in that the wines, noted Simon, were sensationalprize at both the Melbourne and Sydney fledgling scene, including friendships - a magnum of Lanson Carte Noirewine shows. The list of wines survives with Max Lake, Maurice O'Shea etc. They followed by a magnum of Heidsieck Dryin a scribbled and somewhat illegible both famously wore for dinner every night Monopole 1952 to begin, then with thenote. Walker contacted Victor Gibson, an evening dress and dinner suit. Before beef, three 1953 Bordeaux First Growths:organiser of most of Simon’s itinerary. she died she inaugurated the Walter, Lafite, Latour, and Margaux. “Full house!Gibson replied that the list of wines “had Carew and Richard Reynell Scholarship Full marks!” exclaimed the gratefulan extremely potent appeal and I certainly at Roseworthy Agricultural College Simon. This was the dinner when Lenwould have liked to be able to accept on - it is now administered by Adelaide Evans, the Chevron’s wine waiter,behalf of Andre even if it was only for the University and funds visiting winemakers disgraced himself by not checking the and research. Lydia was extremely well wines’ condition - the Mouton was corked, and therefore not mentioned in Simon’s account of the occasion.28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

Classic Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon From the rich terra rossa soils of the original 1974 planting by Sydney Hamilton at Leconfield 94 points James Halliday Wine Companionfacebook.com/leconfieldwines [email protected] www.leconfieldwines.com

In another sign of confidence in Marlborough’s future, the wineries’ production facilities are expanding.

MICHAEL COOPER are headquartered elsewhere. “In wine, for viticulture because landowners are not Marlborough is actually the boss”- but keen to sell,” he said. He reports mountingMARLBOROUGH sauvignon blanc is New many of the highly paid jobs it creates are interest in growing sauvignon blanc inZealand’s key “mover and shaker” on the in Auckland. Hawke’s Bay.international wine scene, but last Julythings got a bit out of hand. An earthquake Marlborough’s winegrowers recently But in another sign of confidencecentred near Seddon, in the Awatere embarked on another, less frantic in Marlborough’s future, the wineries’Valley, measuring 6.6 on the Richter scale, expansion. Dominic Pecchenino, until production facilities are expanding.damaged wineries - tanks were ruptured recently chair of Wine Marlborough, says Treasury Wine Estates recently boostedand leaked, metal walkways buckled - and the new vineyards and wineries reflect the processing capacity of its Matuathe entire region shifted 5cm to the east. “the potential shortage of Marlborough Marlborough winery from 15,000 to 25,000 sauvignon blanc in the near future. Who tonnes. Babich has constructed a new, Marlborough’s economy is certainly would have thought that would be the case 6000-tonnes winery in time for the 2014moving in the right direction. During 2013, four years ago?”. vintage. VinLink Marlborough, a contractspending in Marlborough increased at winemaking facility, opened in 2013, hasa markedly faster rate than the national Between 2008 and 2011, the region’s the capacity to process 20,000 tonnesaverage, reflecting the importance of winegrowers grappled with a glut - caused of grapes, making it “the biggest start-upthe resurgent wine industry to the local by bumper harvests in 2008, 2009 and 2011 winery in New Zealand,” according toeconomy. Exports of Marlborough - which coincided with the global economic general manager Dave Pearce (formerlysauvignon blanc have more than doubled recession. The turning point came in 2012, winemaker at Grove Mill).since 2008, from 66.8 million litres to 144.5 when numerous vineyards, struggling to findmillion litres in 2013. buyers, were suddenly snapped up. Think Marlborough, think sauvignon blanc - but the region has produced There were no commercial vineyards The current price for an established good bubbly since the mid 1980s. Inin Marlborough until 40 years ago. By vineyard - up to $NZ170,000 per ha - is well September, nine wineries launchedthe early 1990s, the region had a third under the peak of $NZ250,000 in 2007, but Methode Marlborough, to promote “theof NZ’s vine plantings and now boasts nurseries can’t meet the demand for plants. quality and heritage of Marlborough’stwo-thirds of the total vineyard area. Dr Marcus Wickham, of Ormond Nurseries, traditional method sparkling wines.”Richard Smart, an Australian who worked reports that “demand is generally fromin NZ as a viticulture scientist during the established growers and wineries who have Allan Scott, Cloudy Bay, Hunter’s,1980s, recently noted the runaway growth a long-term plan for their business, by either Johanneshof, Lion (owner of Daniel Leof plantings in Marlborough between expanding existing blocks or acquiring Brun), Nautilus, No 1 Family Estate, Spy1998 and 2008. “During that decade, neighbouring land. Very few phone calls Valley and Tohu are the group’s members.Marlborough was being planted out at a are from speculative growers.” To qualify, their wines must be 100 per centrate of 900ha per annum. I know of no grown and made in Marlborough; made byother region in the world that has grown Marlborough’s flat land is almost entirely the traditional method; based entirely onas fast as Marlborough has over the last planted and the water from its acquifers chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunierdecade,” he said. allocated. Winemaker Jeff Clarke, of Ara, (individually or blended); and lees-aged for believes future plantings in the region will at least 18 months. However, Amanda Lynn, an economic mostly be confined to hill sites, whereanthropologist working with the Marlborough overhead frost protection and dams Marlborough was once tipped to emergeDistrict Council to shape its economic for water storage will be needed - costs, as the Champagne of the southerndevelopment policy, sounds a note of he says, that can only be met by the hemisphere. That hasn’t happened, butwarning, observing that although the largest producers. Methode Marlborough is a positive step.region produces up to 80 per cent ofNew Zealand’s wine grapes, the big Geoff Thorpe, of Riversun Nurseries, Left Above: Marlborough Grapes.wine companies and the industry agrees that Marlborough will not see Left Below: Marlborough vineyards.organisation, New Zealand Winegrowers, another dramatic surge of vine planting. “There’s probably only 5000ha left… and MARLBOROUGH TASTING STARTS PAGE 118. a reasonable chunk of that is not available March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 31

INDIAFRESH FRONTIERS ASEMBRACES THEWINE CULTURE

AFTER A GLOBAL FINANCIAL CRISIS-INSPIRED SLOW DOWN,THE INDIAN WINE INDUSTRY IS BACK IN GROWTH MODE.DENIS GASTIN market. Wine, though, has been a much per cent of total sales of imported wine. later starter. The biggest moves less than 70,000WINE CONSUMPTION in India is cases per year and the next three just a India’s first contemporary winery, bit beyond 30,000 cases each per year.on the way up again following a severe Chateau Indage, was established only A plummeting Indian Rupee has made itsetback arising from the GFC and the in 1982 and, by 2000, there were still even more difficult for importers and theyterrorist bombings in Mumbai. After just six domestic wine producers. are trimming their portfolios.average annual growth of around 25 per However the momentum picked upcent in wine consumption up until the quickly through the decade with a So it is in the domestic industrycrisis years, the volume of sales slumped serious wine culture taking shape among where the action is happening and twosharply in 2009 and continued at low internationally-oriented, high income states, Maharashtra (capital Mumbai)levels until a recovery began to emerge consumers and, particularly, younger and Karnataka (capital Bangalore),in late 2012. women. Specialist wine retail outlets, wine seeing the potential for a robust new bars, wine appreciation societies and rural industry, moved to exempt local The combined pressures impacted wine education programs are multiplying, grape processors from hefty stateparticularly savagely on India’s pioneer as India internationalises and incomes alcohol taxes to encourage local winewinery, Indage Vintners, which had set grow. This is mostly confined to the cities production. After early successes, theythe industry standards for three decades of Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore and Goa (in have added other incentives. Relaxingwith its Chateau Indage label, accounting that order) but a growing number of online onerous retail sale restrictions for localfor almost 40 per cent of national wine retailers providing direct access to wine wine was an important step. Maharashtrasales at its peak. It had to fight a drawn and conducting active sales promotion State has added more momentum byout battle to avoid liquidation as sales fell and online wine education programs creating concessionally-zoned wineand inventory levels rose, and its market is helping to progressively extend the industry parks to attract wine-relatedshare slumped dramatically. market beyond these major cities. businesses and institutions. It is also promoting domestic wine tourism, But now the clouds are lifting. The punitive tariff on imported wine which is now growing rapidly. LocalEstablished local producers that picked (150 per cent) and an onerous regulatory wine producers are adding to theup the market share lost by Indage regime have ensured that it is domestic attractions with wine festivals and wineryare expanding again and there are producers that are the beneficiaries of the events, plus welcoming cellar doornew arrivals on the scene pushing the trend. Of total sales of wine, estimated experiences, winery dining options andregional, varietal and wine style frontiers. to have been above 1.8 million (9 litre) resort accommodation. cases in 2013, imported wines accounted India is technically a “dry” country for less than 350,000 cases. There are It is in these two states that India’sand some states are still sticking by more than 100 registered importers, but wine industry is almost entirely locatedthe alcohol prohibition enshrined in the only half of them are now active and, and, not surprisingly therefore, whereNational Constitution. But there are lots according to the Indian Wine Academy,of ways around this and whisky, rum the top 10 importers account for about 70 Left: View from York Winery cellar door.and beer are major industries: Indiais actually the world’s largest whisky March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 33

wine consumption is concentrated. Sula is primarily focused on the domestic has become one of its signature wines,Maharashtra is home to 70 of India’s 92 market. But it has also put considerable used in a refreshing rosé as well as drywineries, including a couple with strong effort into developing export markets reds. Shiraz is now its main variety, withinternational connections, in two clearly and has now sold wine in a total of 21 200ha, but it has also progressivelydefined wine regions. The largest region, countries, with Japan, Singapore and the added cabernet sauvignon, merlot,by a long way, is around the city of Nashik, UK its biggest export markets. The total malbec and most recently, tempranillo.now with 40 wineries; the other is around volume of exports, however, represents For its white and sparkling wines it beganthe city of Pune. Nashik is a four-hour only 7 per cent of Sula’s total production with chenin blanc, the industry favourite,drive north-east from Mumbai and Pune at this stage. and sauvignon blanc was added quickly,a three-hour drive south-east. Karnataka, with impressive results. Its most recentits southern neighbour, has 13 wineries, It is sourcing its fruit from almost 700ha additions are riesling, the first winerynorth-east and due east of Bangalore of vines in the Nashik region, of which to do so, and viognier. The riesling has(India’s third largest city). almost 80 per cent is managed by contract been a big winner in the market and the suppliers with substantial technical input volume produced has quadrupled in just Sula Vineyard, headquartered at Nashik, and oversight from Sula’s very professional two years.is now the backbone of the industry. It has viticultural team. The sub-region of Dindori,taken over the lion’s share of the market which it pioneered and now sees as A more recent varietal pioneering frontierforfeited by Indage and now claims a the prime source for its premium wines, is with Italian varieties. The first Indianmarket share of more than 60 per cent with represents 20 per cent of its vineyard winery to produce Italian style wines wasits locally produced and imported wines area. More recently, it has established a Vintage Wines, of Nashik. Its Revielo labelrange. Founder, Rajeev Samant, told me 40ha vineyard in Karnataka, principally to was launched using mainstream Frenchrecently that his winery’s total production service its market in that state. varieties but, in 2010, the winery launchedin 2013 totalled 600,000 cases and he a white wine from the Sicilian variety grillosays it is heading towards a total of 1 Sula has also been a varietal pioneer. It and a red from Sicily’s Nero D’Avola. Inmillion cases. kicked off in the late-1990s with zinfandel, 2010 it launched a sangiovese. the first to plant this variety in India. It

ANOTHER INTERESTING DIMENSION OFTHE INDIAN WINE SCENE IS THE INCREASINGINVOLVEMENT OF FOREIGN WINE PRODUCERS IN THE DOMESTIC INDUSTRY. Another very recent pioneer on the varietal winemaker, Michel Rolland, and underlined quality local wines it can sell at less thanfront is Fratelli Wines. It is an Indo-Italian this in January with the launch of a new half the price of even its lower-pricedventure involving the brothers of three premium wine, Chene Grand Reserve, a imported labels. It is has been crushingfamilies (hence the name Fratelli, meaning blend of Nashik estate-grown tempranillo its grapes at Nashik-based York Winery in“brothers” in Italian) that launched in 2006 and shiraz. It exports almost 20 per cent of the last three vintages while setting up itsin Pune. Not surprisingly, sangiovese is a its production, with markets in 10 countries. own winery at Dindori.component in the blend for their premiumwine, called SETTE, and it is also produced Yet another interesting dimension of Moet released its first Indian wines underas a straight varietal. the Indian wine scene is the increasing its Chandon label in October 2013. The brut involvement of foreign wine producers in the is an assemblage of chenin blanc, pinot noir The first major consolidation step in the domestic industry. Pernod-Ricard’s Nine Hills and chardonnay. The Rosé is shiraz-based,Indian wine industry happened in 2012 winery in Nashik (formerly Seagram’s India) with some pinot noir. The president of Moetwhen Karnataka’s pioneer winery, Grover was the first substantial commitment to local Hennessy Wines, Jean-Guillaume Prats,Vineyards, merged with Nashik winery Vallee production by a multi-national beverage has said that the local Chandon wines “willde Vin, the producer of Zampa wines. A company. Diageo will have a major stake if its be targeted at 25-to-35-year-old urban menprime motivation was to enlarge the portfolio moves to acquire a large slice of local liquor and women who are interested in embracingwith wines from both states to strengthen giant, UB Group, and its Four Seasons winery an international lifestyle while taking pride inthe marketing and distribution network, and in the Pune region survive the regulatory all that’s Indian”.to better manage the hefty inter-state tax challenges it has recently encountered.liabilities. It is now India’s second largest Opposite Page,winery, following its relaunch as Grover And the world’s biggest champagne Top Left: Overlooking the vines in front of Sula winery.Zampa Wines, and its production has house, Moet-Hennessy, previously a stake Top Right: Sula Tasting Room.reached around 200,000 cases. It is focused holder in Vallee de Vin, is working on a Bottom Left: Sanket Gawant (also pictured middle right),on mid-level and premium wines, drawing on major project of its own in Nashik. Moet winemaker at Vallone and his assistant, Ashwini.the long-term inputs from renowned French sees its new venture as a way to develop Bottom Right: Bottles from York Winery. a better footprint in the market by offering Current Page Above Top: Grover Zampa Winery. Above Bottom: Vineyards at Sula Winery. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 35



JENI PORT the one in charge. Alex Van Driel was for sparkling wines under its Clover Hill also promoted, taking over as viticulturist label. Grapes are sourced from PipersVITICULTURIST Chris Smith was the first following Smith’s departure concentrating Brook in the north and Coal Valley in theto leave Taltarni. on Taltarni’s Lebrina and Tea Tree vineyards south, with another 15ha of grapes slated in Tasmania. for planting in the next few years. He retired after 25 years of service.Then Taltarni table wine specialist Loic le Maybe in years to come the exodus will Like Arras, Heywood is looking for anyCalvez and group sparkling winemaker be seen as a turning point for the Pyrenees- winemaking advantage he can obtain, inKarina Dambergs left winemaking for other based producer. Who knows? particular leaving wines longer on leespursuits. To lose one winemaker within 18 before disgorgement, aiding complexity.months will hurt a little but to lose three? Heywood certainly isn’t shy about hisWell, that must hurt a lot. winemaking ambitions and how he sees Heywood has also persuaded le Calvez to the future of the company. He also lives up come back to the Taltarni fold, supervising “We all had to take on a huge load but to his nickname, Roo, which isn’t a play on all winemaking in Tassie and looking afteras far as the winemaking philosophy goes kangaroo but rather rooster, a moniker he’s the sparklings. In a reversal of roles, it isit really didn’t change. The quality has had since childhood. Apparently he wasn’t le Calvez who now answers to Heywood.remained the same which is really great,” short on confidence.says Robert “Roo” Heywood, who rose And there are new projects in the wind.from assistant winemaker to take on the job “I want Taltarni to be the best sparkling One is a blanc de noir. Expect to see theof operations and winemaking manager. wine house in Australia in the next three first release within four or five years. The years,” he says. “We want to be up there other is a sparkling red and that’s downright He’d been with the company since with Arras (owned by Accolade Wines).” exciting news for fans of the style which2009, so while the pay grade jumped, Like Arras, Taltarni sources chardonnay, has been in the dumps in recent yearslittle else changed except now he was pinot noir and pinot meunier from Tasmania with probably more producers exiting March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 37

I WANT TALTARNI Vindependent is the word the Goelets Heywood is expecting more heat and use to describe the many wine operations an early vintage. And along with the rest TO BE THE under their umbrella, from Clos du Val of Victorian winemakers he’s also expecting in California to deAlto Amo in Rioja, crop losses due to the scorching summerBest Sparkling Domaine de Nizas in the Languedoc and temperatures. “I reckon there’ll be a 20 Wine House Kato in Marlborough. per cent loss across the state,” he says. IN AUSTRALIA IN The company sees itself as proudly His previous experience working in the defiant of passing trends and influences. Barossa Valley, he says, has prepared him THE NEXT for the hot, dry conditions. Well, almost. The decision to release a THREE YEARS. 100 per cent mourvedre and 100 per cent “They (Barossa winemakers) talked about petit verdot this year shows a willingness how important it was to have good soilthe market than entering. The sparkling to explore grape varieties that are suited moisture in the vineyard prior to the heatis a blend of shiraz (85 per cent) and to a changing, warmer environment. wave so the vine could pull it out when itmourvedre (15 per cent) and was originally Climate change may not be a “passing needed it. There is no point if it’s not downintended as a trial for cellar club members trend” but it is definitely an “influence” around the root zone. We are well prepared.but somehow a London wine buyer saw that can’t be ignored. The boys are working split shifts in thethe wine and started ordering. It’s going vineyard for irrigation, giving every blockmainstream in the next 12 months. Heywood is looking to also plant maybe three hours during the day.” a little grenache and pinot blanc in the Taltarni turns 45 this year and isn’t it reassuring future. “There are a lot of varieties and So, with a reduced crop maybe thereto see a producer approaching middle age with we’re going to do a bit of trialing. Taltarni will be some concentrated reds comingsuch a lively spring still in its step? is focusing on what can make it better,” through in 2014? he says. Owned by the American Goelet family, “I don’t mind a bit of concentrationTaltarni remains a law unto itself, thus Water, he stresses isn’t an issue. Taltarni but we’re looking at a low crop thisthe freedom to play with sparkling shiraz is blessed with a number of large dams. year anyway. It’s looking good for us.”blends or go deep into unraveling the However, heat is another matter. January Fingers crossed.mysteries of a good blanc de noir. saw a run of 40-plus C days and at least one fire which started after a lightening Previous page: Taltarni Vineyard. strike on the outskirts of Moonambel Above Left: Taltarni Sign. just down the road from Taltarni. It came Above: Kangaroo in the vineyards at Taltarni.. to within 20 0m of Taltarni’s nearest neighbor, Dalwhinnie. CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA TASTING STARTS PAGE 9038 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

Our new Business Class is our most versatile yet, with window seats thatoffer you privacy with a view. You’ll find extra space for work, entertainmentand relaxation, and larger-than-ever, fully flat beds for a restful sleep. Andthere’s always someone nearby to anticipate your needs.The new Business Class. cathaypacific.com/newbusinessclassOur new Business Class is being progressively introduced on our Boeing 777-300ER and Airbus A330-300 aircraft. Aircraft deployment varies and availabilityis subject to operational requirements.

Old Stars40 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

THE SPANISH AND ANDREW CORRIGAN MW say “ciao” instead of “seeya”! There is aITALIAN VARIETIES great selection of Italian wines availableTEND TO BE MORE THE RANGE of wine available in Australia in Australia and our winemakers have not is increasingly wonderful as “new” varieties, been slow to see the attractions of Italian DIFFICULT AND mainly from Italy and Spain, are becoming grape varieties. The less fruity aroma and FUSSY IN TERMS established with excellent examples dry, yet interesting taste texture, offers OF RIPENING IN available. The strong Aussie dollar has something very sippable and also great also allowed many new imports from these with a range of food tastes. Lower priced THE VINEYARD countries and we are spoiled for choice. chardonnays can be too alcoholic andCOMPARED TO THE The new varieties may be new in Australia uninteresting; savvy blanc is ubiquitousFRENCH VARIETIES. but they are “old” varieties in their European not to mention its raspy sour acidity often country of origin and part of the story is the disguised with a little sweetness, and explanation for them arriving only recently. people like a change; riesling still struggles Read on! a bit especially with female consumers. The exotic names and labels of the new Not so long ago Australian wine was varieties are well regarded especially absolutely dominated by the so-called where the Italians and Spanish have “French varieties” - sauvignon blanc, striking label designs. riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and maybe merlot. The establishment of the French and not Riesling should probably be known as a Italian and Spanish varieties in Australia is German variety but that discussion is for part of our history. The First Fleet brought another time. When semillon is added vine cuttings that were obtained from to this list, the group is known as “The the last port of call- the Cape of Good Magnificent Seven”, allowing merlot to Hope. However none survived. Then John be counted in with cabernet sauvignon Macarthur planted vines at Camden Park, because it, too, originates with cabernet west of Sydney, and again few survived. in the French region Bordeaux. The The notable pioneer was James Busby “new” varieties in Australia are a diverse who brought a collection of cuttings to bunch but they generally do not offer the the Hunter Valley in 1831. Many vines same high level as the French varieties of survived and those that did underpinned ripeness, alcohol, forward varietal flavour the Australian wine industry for many years and palate richness. The new varieties tend to come. By the 1890s the vine attacking to be more subtle and lighter bodied, often insect phylloxera had decimated much with savoury acid if a white, and tannin of Europe’s vineyards and even though dryness if a red. This general taste is not a there may have been interest in importing bad thing as Australians move to enjoying more varieties into Australia, the threat of wine as a lighter, refreshing drink and in this pest prevented it. Federation of the small, casual wine bars. Australian states in 1900 was followed by a national approach to quarantine and Do you notice that food with a bistro, the protection of Australian agriculture. casual, Italian style is very popular? We sit on sidewalks and sip coffee. Some Opposite: Italia cork and corkscrew. Australians with no Italian background March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 41

NEW VARIETIES IN AUSTRALIA FROM ITALY AND SPAINVARIETY TRADITIONAL REGION STYLE OF WINE REGIONS IN AUSTRALIA ITALIAN WHITESARNEIS Piemonte, cool region. Fresh, light dry, with aroma of Adelaide Hills, southern WA,NE almonds, peaches, herbs. Vic, Mornington Pen, Riverland.CORTESE North-west Italy, most famous region is Steely, stony, medium body. Adelaide Hills, inland Vic. Gavi, cool region.FIANO Southern Italy, warm climate. Nuts, herbs, smoky, spicy. Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Inland SA.PINOT GRIGIO (same North-east Italy; cool, soft climate. Fresh white, dried apple and pear, Widespread. grape variety as moderate/high alcohol. french pinot gris)VERMENTINO Southern Italy, Sardinia; stays fresh in Light citrus aroma, medium body Widespread, inland Vic, Inland warm climate. but fresh tasting. SA, Granite Belt. SPANISH WHITESALBARINO Rais Baixas, Galicia, north-west Spain, Lightly citrus, orange aromatic, Widespread but confused cold humid climate; light bodied, fresh; makes low because what was thought Alvarinho in Portugal, cold climate. alcohol fresh white in Portugal to be albarino was actually and called Vinho Verde. savignin, a variety from Jura, France.VERDEJO Rueda, north-central Spain. Arid inland Fresh passionfruit aroma, dry, can Rare but confused with hot and cold climate. be fuller bodied. verdelho which is different and mainstream in Australia. ITALIAN REDSDOLCETTO North-west Italy, Piedmont, cold climate. Dark colour, relatively low acid, Limestone Coast, McLaren medium bodied; almond cherry Vale, Langhorne Creek, in-land aroma. Vic.NERO D’AVOLA Sicily; overall warm but high altitude Rich, red/black cherry aroma and McLaren Vale, Riverland, in- results in cold nights. firm tannin, medium/lighter bodied land Vic, Granite Belt. but firm tasting.MONTEPULCIANO Central-east Italy; moderate warm Juicy red, spicy plummy, firm Inland Vic, Adelaide Hills, Mediterranean climate. tannin. Riverland, Clare.SANGIOVESE Chianti, Tuscany, central Italy; cool, Medium bodied, savoury black Widespread, in-land Vic, cool misty climate. cherry character, tannic. parts of SA.BARBERA North-west Italy, Piedmont; Light/medium red; savoury cherry Inland Vic, Langhorne Creek. cold climate. flavour, not unlike pinot noir.NEBBIOLO North-west Italy, Piedmont; most Big tannin, tar and roses, Becoming wide-spread, famous from Barolo, Barbaresco; licorice and plum; surprising Adelaide Hills, WA, inland Vic. cold climate. lighter colour.PRIMITIVO Puglia, the “heel” of Italy; also known as Full bodied, deep colour, high Margaret River, Adelaide zinfandel and widespread in California; alcohol, citrus and dark red fruit Hills. Widespread but small warm climate. aromas. quantities. Puglia, warm climate. “Black and bitter” is a translation of Barossa, inland Vic. the name - deep colour, mediumNEGROAMARO bodied, quite tannic.AGLIANICO Originally a Greek variety, from central Full bodied, with high acid and firm McLaren Vale. Italy around Campania - moderate tannin and ages well. warm Mediterranean climate.LAGREIN Trentino - Alto Adige, South Tyrol, north- Vibrant red colour, bitter cherry Langhorne Creek, inland Vic. east Italy, cold climate. flavour, high acid, high tannin. SPANISH REDSTEMPRANILLO Widespread in Spain but best known Red and dark cherry and a little Canberra, McLaren Vale, from central northern regions Rioja and earthy, medium bodied, firm Adelaide Hills, Granite Belt, Ribera del Duero. Arid inland hot and tannin. Heathcote, Western Australia. cold climate. MONASTREL, Widely grown in Spain. Earthy, ripe, jammy plum, licorice, Widely grown, especially in SA.(Mourvedre in France; soft and full bodied. Mataro in Australia)42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

It was only in the 1990s that it was possible people will ask the obvious question of why French varieties. The presence of naturallyto import new vines. Hence until this recent it took so long to arrive. high levels of acid and tannin mean thattime when new vines arrived, the Australian well-balanced ripening is crucial, especiallyindustry developed off the pioneering vines In the late 1800s, winemakers and when varietal fruit flavours are more subtle.established by Busby. Literature and brokers from Bordeaux, the classic red Hence the location of the vineyard and itsreferences to Busby’s vines refer to the region in France that is home to cabernet climate is very important - more so than theFrench varieties. I suspect that he may have sauvignon and merlot, travelled extensively French varieties. A great wine from Frenchplanted Spanish varieties because he had to Rioja to buy wine to fill the void caused varieties needs a well-located vineyard buttoured through Spain. However the vines by the outbreak of the vine eating pest it is possible to make a reasonable wine indid not survive in the Hunter Valley climate. phylloxera north of the Pyrenees. The a lesser location. However a lesser location Rioja producers were influenced by the for Spanish and Italian varieties will see Comparisons of wine in inland Australia Bordeaux buyers into making wine with firm long-term problems. The tale of nebbioloand Spain are expected. Both are large, oak flavours and the Bordeaux winemakers in Australia has seen it planted in manyarid countries with diverse climates tending gave assistance, applying their skill with locations where it has been removed sometowards warm, although with high altitude French oak to the cheaper American oak years later after expense and heartbreak.regions that offer cold nights and a in use in Rioja. The story is well known Nebbiolo can produce a light, fruity cropbig range of temperature. Spain’s most that in 1950 Max Schubert, of Penfolds, when the vines are young but in years soonfamous premium wine is the red from Rioja undertook a study tour of Europe where after the vines grow foliage and won’t ripen(pronounced “ree-okka”) where tempranillo, he developed the idea for a high quality grapes! Through Australian wine historyoften blended with garnacha (known as Australian red that was made by extensive there have been many examples of growersgrenache in Australia) is traditionally aged maturation in oak barrels. He wanted to who have admired a particular wine andfor some years in American oak barrels. utilise cabernet sauvignon and follow the proceeded to plant the relevant variety.The use of American oak (as distinct from Bordeaux procedure, but there was not However they have not considered theFrench oak) is common in Australia and enough cabernet and he amended his location and climate, and often got it wrong.there are parallels drawn between the plans and used the plentiful shiraz. His trip A careful assessment of the climate and soilreds of the two countries. Tempranillo to Rioja suggested that he should make type of the European origin is vital whenhas the cherry aroma of pinot noir but the a marriage of shiraz and American oak. deciding to plant the variety in Australia.dryness and tannin of low-yield merlot. It Schubert’s wine became Penfolds Grangecombines elegant softness with earthy dry and, as they say, the rest is history. Above: Two glasses of red wine and bottle on a table.flavours and is a great accompaniment toMediterranean food and barbecues. It is The Spanish and Italian varieties tend ITALIAN & SPANISH TASTINGbecoming a good variety in Australia and to be more difficult and fussy in terms of STARTS PAGE 94 ripening in the vineyard compared to the March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 43

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINAt the end of 2013, Masterchef judge, chef followed later in the year by another Smith St, Collingwood. A few months afterand restaurateur George Calombaris opening in Williamstown. 72 Flinders St, opening, the owners of Saint Crispin,opened a very smart restaurant and what he Melbourne; phone (03) 9677 9677. chefs Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac,refers to as a “passion project”. His flagship have opened a new bar upstairs from therestaurant known as The Press Club was Owners and operators of the Prince Wine busy restaurant to hold diners waiting forlocated in a large room on the corner of Store in South Melbourne, Philip Rich, a table and also serve as a stand-aloneRussell and Flinders streets in Melbourne’s Alex Wilcox and Michael McNamara, bar. Called Thomas Olive, it is namedCBD. It closed and became Gazi, a casual have opened a wine bar next to the popular after the first tenant in the shop on Smithsouvlaki restaurant in May 2013. bottle shop called Belotta. The boys St in the late 1800s who worked as a have surrounded themselves with sound, cobbler. The room is tiny with a handful Calombaris still wanted to cook the savvy consulants in restaurateur Gerard of barstools and four tables and chairscreative, left-of-centre dishes he initially Diffey from Gerald’s Bar in Carlton and around which to sit. The room is moody,became known for before television raised Brooks in the CBD advising on the space dark and classic, with chesterfields,his profile, and he was in the fortunate and logistics, and chef Brigitte Hafner large windows and broody lighting, andposition to refurbish the small cafe around from Gertrude Street Enoteca in Fitzroy there’s a private dining room next door.the corner on Flinders that was known as consulting on the menu. Expect charcuterie, A savvy cocktail list and smart wineLittle Press and turn it into a new version a crustacean bar and simple dishes based selection with a strong French influenceof The Press Club. With just 34 seats, on quality ingredients executed with a solid has been created by manager JamesThe Press Club is a beautiful fluid room grounding in technique. A simple minute Tait. It supports the business downstairsdesigned in sand, beige, soft browns of steak, a plate of just-shucked oysters and while certainly creating an identity of itstextured wood and soft leather. There is a smart, delicately handled cheese plate own. You’ll find dishes from the menuonly booth seating and lots of striking are on the menu in the small dining room, downstairs, the crunch of Snap, Cracklegold, a nod to Calombaris’s native Greece. while the wine-at-hand is clearly a feast. and Pop - fried, seasoned pork fat - orThe restaurant is open Monday to Friday Choose from a wine list built on the team’s the salty punch of eel croquettes may beonly, for lunch and dinner and bookings experience or for a few extra dollars, have a the perfect accompaniment with a Lilletare essential. There is a set menu but wander through the shelves of bottles next or a Martini. Walk through Saint Crispina choice in terms of how many courses door and take it to the table to enjoy a bottle and then take the long thin staircase, it’syou have: lunch is either two courses for in Belotta. 181 Bank St, South Melbourne; worth a look. 300 Smith St, Collingwood;$50, three courses for $70 or six courses phone (03) 9078 8381. phone (03) 9419 2202.$120; dinner is a choice of five courses for$145 and eight courses for $190. It’s not We reported a few months ago about Above: Old world feel at Thomas Olive.inexpensive but also reasonably priced Saint Crispin, the newest restaurant toconsidering the work that goes into each join the now well-established foodiedish. Next door to The Press Club is Press strip of cafes, delis and restaurants onClub Projects, a kitchen laboratory whereCalombaris and his team, lead by headchef Luke Croston can test dishes beforethey hit the menu. The public can bookseats at the lab counter - there’s seatingfor up to eight people - and enjoy somehits ... And some of the misses that won’tmake it to the restaurant. Calombaris is adirector of the Made Establishment Group,which owns The Press Club, Gazi, HellenicRepublic in Brunswick and Jimmy Grant’sin Collingwood. So successful is HellenicRepublic that the group has closed anotherbusiness it had, St Katherine’s in Kew,and turned it into Hellenic Republic Kew,complete with slow-cooked lamb, haloumiwith peppered figs and lots of taramaand bread for dipping. The Jimmy Grant’sphenomenon, with it’s easy, affordablesalads and souvlakis, will keep growingwith plans for another outpost in Ormond44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014



perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNApart from the dizzy heights of the cost of time I was there. Limited street-ticket parking booze, and there’s no sign of flowingdining in WA and some ordinary service, exists but you’d be better off taking a cab or robes. It’s a new restaurant in North Perththere are a few other restaurant grizzles I using public transport mid-week. If you are in an area that is developing into a veryhave. Music played in some places is too a visitor to Perth, forget the hotel breakfast smart “eat here” precinct. The food at Chilliloud, so much so, it can be difficult to have or lunch buffet, rock up to the Tuck Shop. Orange has an Asian twist to an Australiana conversation with a dining companion. You’ll love it. 178 Newcastle St, Perth; phone base, but don’t expect cheap nosh. You’llRestaurant music is for customers, not staff. (08) 9227 1659. see entrees of seared rare beef tenderloinThe provenance of seafood on menus is with tatsoi (an Asian green), chilli orangeoften overlooked, whereas it is mandatory to It’s no secret that Subiaco has bombed. and black bean dressing ($17) as well asdisplay it in retail seafood outlets in WA. Would This inner-western suburb of Perth was soft shell crab tempura served with wasabiyou order a prawn risotto if you knew the only recently the hub of dining, fashion, mayo ($16). Seared local scallop with five-prawns were cage-farmed in Asia? Popular markets, vibrancy and the good life in spice crispy duck and grilled eggplant ($38)contemporary large deep bowls that offer general. A combination of greedy landlords and red curry with local king prawn (a tickno resting place for cutlery are anathema on and rocketing rents, a local authoritythe dining table. Invariably the knife and fork here for prawn identification) with bamboo,lose balance and slide down the steep sides without foresight, the development of eggplant, red pepper and steamed riceto a messy end. These bowls are attractive business (which has departed en masse) ($33) are popular mains. Sides are anbut are ridiculously impractical and are best in lieu of housing (which spends money extra. The desserts include a couple ofconsigned to the nearest Greek restaurant locally), restricted parking and over- dinky-di Oz favourites: meringue and freshwhich would have a better use for them. zealous parking inspectors have taken fruits, vanilla ice cream and lemon curd their toll. The Subiaco Hotel was once the and also an oozy chocolate lava cake with The Tuck Shop is a small cafe/delicatessen leading hotel in Perth for food, beer, wine macadamia ice cream and raspberry coulis,in a rejuvenated area close to the CBD and and good times. It has been quiet lately both at $16. It is quality tucker here and it’sopens for breakfast and lunch, a brunch but the owners, the Monaghan family, are served with some panache. The restaurantvenue if you like, and is smokin’ six days fighting back. A major multi-million internal is licensed, booking is recommendeda week, 7 to 4. There is always a queue makeover of the landmark hotel is under and parking should not pose a problem.of hunger out front but it thins reasonably way and will be completed soon. This may Open for dinner only. 21 Angove St, Northquickly as patrons take their place to enjoy be the catalyst for a Subi revival. There are Perth (next to the Rosemount Hotel);arguably the best breakfast in town or a many who hope so. phone (08) 9228 3814.ripper lunch. I would probably avoid a piefor breakfast but there are many who cannot The name conjures up images of a Thai Above: Subiaco Hotel.resist the house-made pies (chicken white Hare Krishna restaurant, yet Chilli Orangewine and leek, beef and stilton, and others) is far from that - it serves both meat andat $12.50 and hop in for their fill early inthe day. There are others who salivateover grilled black pudding on toastedsourdough with tomato, parsley ricotta andpoached egg ($18.50), a great breakfastwhich I ravished. The more conservativecustomers scoff baked beans with smokedham hock, a poached egg and parmesantoast ($18.50) and for the sweet tooth thereare mixed berry pancakes with maple syrupand vanilla marscapone ($16.50). You getthe drift; the food is interesting, comesin generous serves and is aestheticallypleasing. Freshly-squeezed juices andcoffee are the go; quality tea and iced tea(seasonal) are also available. The downsideis that the place is compact, it seats about45 and standing around waiting for a tableis sometimes necessary, especially on theweekend and at popular times during theworking week. BYO is allowed, but I didn’tsee any alcohol consumed at 10am, the46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSWith a spate of new bars and restaurants native ingredients, Zonfrillo, who moved restored buildings and fashionable newopening in Adelaide this summer, the on last year from his previous position as bars, has enabled the ever popular Rigoni’sstandout newcomer has to be owner-chef executive chef at Magill Estate, has elevated to spread its white-clad tables and bentwoodJock Zonfrillo’s extraordinary 25-seat them to another level in a manner that will chairs on to the pavement in true Italian style.restaurant Orana, with its streetfront cafe-bar win national attention. Orana lunch Friday,sibling Street-ADL in the location previously dinner Tuesday - Saturday (degustation And true to its Italian roots is still has theoccupied by the landmark Universal Wine bar. menu only); Street-ADL (no bookings) freshest, crispest calamari, a fine array of lunch and dinner daily, 285 Rundle St, antipasti, and hearty traditional dishes such They’re the culmination of a decade’s worth Adelaide; phone (08) 8232 3444. as pot-roasted Barossa chicken breastof research by Scottish born Zonfrillo, who with soft polenta and pickled red cabbageimmigrated to Australia in 2000, took to it as Anyone who thought the Daniel O’Connell or freshly-made gnocchi with pork belly,if he’d discovered his spiritual home, and set was just another Irish pub would have been mushrooms and spinach.about discovering the real taste of Australia. right until it became Adelaide’s front-runner in the nose-to-tail stakes. Most regulars will head straight to the Outside of the kitchen, Zonfrillo has become specials board for dishes such as beefinstrumental in successfully reintroducing the The lofty restaurant extension at the rear has fillet with a salad of potatoes, sopressa andLonghorn breed of cattle back to Australia a comfortably dated feel to it, but the cooking caramelised onion - and try to leave room forafter many years of unsuccessful proliferation. is up-to-the-minute fashionable which is not the chef’s signature tiramisu. Breakfast, lunchHe dives for scallops off Kangaroo Island surprising given its familial relationship with and dinner Monday – Friday. 27 Leigh St,for his restaurants, he explores regional its sister restaurant, the much acclaimed Adelaide; phone (08) 8231 5160.Australian produce, foraging primarily in the Hentley Farm in the Barossa.Adelaide Hills but also throughout Australia Meanwhile, the city’s small bar sceneand, above all, he has connected with the This is definitely pub food, minus the continues to boom due to revised licensingancient culture of Australia’s Aborigines. frills, but all the essentials are there. Pig regulations, with more than 30 recently- trotters are braised, shredded and served opened venues either now open or under For diners at Orana that has led to two on grilled sourdough with a fried egg and way - with even a Serbian tapas bar Kaffanatasting menus that include dishes such as crisp, dehydrated pig crackling; beef shin now approved for Peel St and The EditorKangaroo Island scallops with salty iceplant, is again shredded, compressed into a rich Wine & Dessert Bar now open on nearbyor losenges of smoked Waygu intercostal gelatinous slab and served with steamed Waymouth St.topped by bitter grass mousse. Coorong spring vegetables, while something calledmulloway is paired with native cherries and “Dead Romance” is a chopped ox heart and And lovers of Nonya cooking can hardly waitsea parsley, while kangaroo backstrap is oyster tartare with cornichons. for legendary Darwin restaurateur Jimmy Shupaired with mountain pepper and sow thistle, to open his fourth Hanuman restaurant (aftermarron with aniseed myrtle. For those who don’t fancy either nose or Darwin, Cairns and Alice Springs) in Adelaide tail, there are less adventurous alternatives. at the Chifley Hotel on South Tce. The At the more casual Street-ADL, the wall- Lunch and dinner daily. 165 Tynte St, opening is due very early in 2014 and alongmounted, neon lit menu offers more native North Adelaide; phone (08) 8267 4032. with Nonya dishes such as wild barramundiflavours and ingredients, with Kangaroo in coconut and fresh curry leaves, or satayIsland marron barbecued with Australian While the city’s Leigh St/Peel St precinct has chicken with lemongrass, cracked cuminmountain pepper and pork ribs slow cooked been the focus for a rash of new bars and and coriander seed, there will be a rangethen fried with quandong and bush tomato, restaurants, one can’t overlook some of the of Indian and Thai dishes. 226 South Tce,and riberry cocktails. longtime stayers such as Rigoni’s Bistro, Adelaide; phone (08) 223 4355. now heading into its 35th year. While a lot of early groundwork was doneby chefs such as Andrew Fielke in using The conversion of Leigh St to a traffic-free al fresco dining precinct, with beautifully Left: Street-ADL cafe/bar. Above: Orana dining. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 47

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGI’d head for A Tavola’s latest venture at bouillabaisse, was doing a brisk trade - thick in the way of desserts but over-contrivedBondi Beach solely for the wines. All Italian, with prawns, mussels and fish chunks. The sweets are certainly not missed. The wineof course, from pricey Barolos to well-priced squid ink tagliolini was a winner and so was list is serviceably good, as it should be, andSicilian and Veneto drops. Others converge the whole baked fish of the day. there’s plenty of takers for the jugs of sangriaon this packed-to-the-gunwales eatery for the and gin cocktails made with Hendricks,electric atmosphere that lights up the street The dessert list is tightly edited and A Tanqueray and Bombay Sapphire. Northlevel entry point to La Boheme, the swanky Tavola's famous cremino al cioccolata - a Bondi Fish, 120 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi;commercial and residential development that layered coupe of meringue, chocolate, phone (02) 9130 2155.fills the former site of that decades-long Bondi hazelnut and salted caramel ice cream - hasicon - the Hakoah Club. found many new fans across town. We went Papi Chulo is the 11th restaurant in the for the torta di arancia - a sponge soaked in Merivale group and the first north of the Many other stalwarts have made the an orange-flavoured syrup - that wasn’t as harbour. Restaurateur Justin Hemmes isshift from A Tavola’s Darlinghurst ancestor rich. But there’s another reason why sweets now in his 40s and the name of the restaurantrestaurant, including maitre d’ Ennio di don’t take up too much of the kitchen team’s is a Spanish term for silver fox male who hasMarco, the home-made pasta drying in front time. Gelato Messina, renowned as one of still retained his cool. the finest gelati makers in Sydney, is only aof the open kitchen and a copycat version of couple of doors down and the queues are Located on the site of the former Manlythe marble table that gives the restaurant its long and semi-permanent. Phoenix Chinese restaurant, Papi Chulo alsoname. The menu is strikingly similar in parts, has something special its stablemates lacktoo, from the antipasti plate to the pappardelle Although early reviews attracted foodies - a magnificent ocean view. Just as Hongcon ragu di manzo (pasta with wagyu beef from all over town, A Tavola’s long-term Kong is in the grip of south-of-the-bordercooked in red wine) - rightly thought of as \"A strategy is to become a much-frequented fever, the trend is also becoming entrenchedTavola’s signature dish\". s hotspot for locals. On the night we in Sydney. The restaurant’s open kitchen dropped by the plan was working well. houses a wood-fired barbeque and two If you don’t manage to snag a place at A Tavola, Shop 2, 75-79 Hall St, Bondi; commercial grade smokers. And the men inthe central table - no matter. The occasional phone (02) 9130 1246. charge of the “smokehouse and grill diningtables on the street, overlooking the open- destination”, as Hemmes describes Papiair walkway or against the intimacy of the Still in Bondi but within diving distance of the Chulo, are Patrick Friesen (ex-Mrs Gs) andback wall are also evocative of a slice of ocean, Matt Moran’s new outpost occupies Christopher Hogarth (ex -El Loco).transported Italy. Most of the waitstaff are the space once filled by North Bondi Italian.Italian so after a couple of Soaves from the Moran and his business partner Peter Antique Argentinian shutters, bare brickVeneto, it’s easy to forget you are only a Sullivan have perfected the simply good walls and glazed tiles add a Havanathree-minute stroll from Bondi Beach. Until style of cooking at Chiswick in Woollahra and touch to the 220-seat dining area. Theyou check out the seafood specials. have adopted a similar laidback approach listings veer all over the Americas from with the move to the seaside. Forget the grain-fed beef burgers, smoked pork ribs, Chef Luke Randall (who has worked with lamb from Matt’s dad’s farm that streams out empanadas filled with greens, ceviches andJamie Oliver) and his brigade has injected of the kitchen at Chiswick, seafood occupies big bowl salads. Top tip: book for sundownersome choice seafood dishes into the centre stage at North Bondi Fish and it’s as cocktails. Papi Chulo, 22 Manly Wharf,changing blackboard listings. I enjoyed an fresh as the decor. Manly; phone (02) 9240 3000.entree of polenta with sweet-fleshed spannercrab. The brodo di pesce, an Italian take on The beach-house look is more in keeping Left and Above: Just a small selection of the delicious with the location than its predecessor - food menu A Tavola boasts. and design-wise. North Bondi Italian was indicative of its heyday - a strong black and red interior, pastas and meats. North Bondi Fish sports communal benches, beachy seaside pastel walls, wicker chairs and naif-style seafood murals. A central casting background for the star of the menu - beer-battered flathead and chips. Originally intended as a summer pop-up, North Bondi Fish quickly morphed into a permanent fixture. Many of the dishes have mass appeal - from the fried calamari rings to the tuna nicoise salad. The magnet for all eyes is the charcoal grill and it’s in constant use churning out grilled whole fish of the day. There’s not much48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELCyclones come and go from our coastline and Locale popped up at the National Park end hinterland picnics to beachside barbequesso do restaurants, especially in the growing of Hastings St in October last year. Operators to eight-course degustation dinners, cookingcoastal hamlet of Noosa, where several new Rio and Amanda Capurso (ex-Lindoni’s) demonstrations, restaurant critic cook-offvenues are making headlines. are offering up a modern take on the Italian competitions and gala cocktail parties. classics in the moodily lit dining space. This year the festival will host some of Wood Fire Grill opened next door to Ricky’s Australia and the world’s best chefs,early last year and hasn’t skipped a beat. A There’s a lovely little line up of apertivo’s including Franck-Elie Laloum (Shanghai),wall of stacked wood frames the open kitchen to have with Pacific oysters topped with Alvin Leung (Hong Kong), Bruno Loubetwhere a brigade of immaculately clad chefs prosecco sorbet and aperol jelly, and a (London), Neil Perry AM (Sydney), Julientackles the meaty menu. It’s a lovely room with generous selection of salumi. Veal sits simply Royer (Singapore), David Thompsona contemporary, almost Nordic aesthetic, but in lemon butter with sage and gnocchi, (Bangkok) as well as Shane Delia, Guythe menu gives a solid little nod to Southern porchetta is slow roasted with butternut puree Grossi, Peter Kuruvita, Andrew McConnell,Americana-style food that’s currently trending and milk-fed shoulder of lamb is braised for Brent Savage, Ryan Squires and manyall over the state. Bucket of chicken with 12 hours and comes with a fava bean puree others under Montgomery’s direction.gravy and slaw is one such example and and mint gremolata. 62 Hastings St, Noosa;BBQ Bourbon chicken wings and sides like phone (07) 5447 5111. More than 80 of Australia’s besticeberg lettuce with ranch dressing and winemakers and wine authorities will“poutine” shoestring fries with cheese ’n’ At the other end and on the former site of Ma come together for a series of truly world-gravy, but there’s also some serious steaks Mensa is Miss Moneypenny’s, a bar created class wine celebrations and masterclassesto choose from, all of which come with sides by mixologist Ben Walsh. He is a co-owner of hosted by Aaron Brasher, Peter Forrestal,of potato gratin, bearnaise, chimmichurri and the popular Goldfish Bar and Restaurant in Ken Gargett, Tony Harper, Tony Love,steak sauce as well as a range of house made the Hunter Valley and previous co-creator of Bernadette O’Shea, Peter Scudamore-mustards. Noosa Wharf, 2 Quamby Place, Goldfish Bar in King’s Cross. 6 Hastings St Smith MW and Tyson Steltzer.Noosa Heads; phone (07) 5447 2455. Noosa; phone (07) 5474 9999. Minister for Tourism, Major Events, Small Peter Kuravita came to town for one of the Berardo’s is one of Queensland’s most Business and the Commonwealth Gamesannual Noosa Food and Wine Festivals respected restaurants and recently had a Jann Stuckey said the 2014 event boastsand liked the place. So much so that he has charge of guard in the kitchen. When chef a spectacular program set to entice morecollaborated with the Sheraton Noosa turning Tim Montgomery headed up Bacchus in visitors to the region. “The Noosa InternationalCato’s, a semi-circular two-level bar into the Newcastle it ranked 43rd in the Gourmet Food and Wine Festival continues to serveNoosa Beach House, a modern Australian Traveller Hot 100 Restaurants and clocked up a superb culinary and entertainmentrestaurant with a fresh, plantation style decor up plenty of chefs hats. experience, attracting thousands of visitorsand menu of seafood-rich dishes perfect for to the Sunshine Coast each year,” sheholiday dining. In the crustacean section you’ll He decided to head north and make Noosa said. “Supporting major events such as thisfind crabs, lobsters and Moreton Bay bugs home, heading up the team at Berardo’s and through Tourism and Events Queenslandoffered three ways - simple salt and pepper, introducing his new menu at the end of 2013 is part of the Queensland Government’ssteamed with ginger and shallots or flash fried that has locals and the dedicated clientele of commitment to doubling overnight annualwith black pepper and curry leaves. frequent southern visitors swooning. visitor expenditure from $15 billion to $30 billion by 2020.” Upper level, Ocean Breeze Resort, His signature Sri Lankan snapper curry Yellow fin tuna arrives with saffron yolk and Hastings St, Noosa; Phone: (07) 5447 5666.served with basmati rice and condiments is piquillo de pardon peppers from nearby Noosafoodandwine.com.au.a must-try but plenty is also said of the pan Maleny, Warrigal greens, black garlic andseared local reef fish doused in a delicious miso and marrow butter accompanies the Above: The Noosa International Food and Wine Festival.crab vinaigrette with roasted cauliflower. Cape Grim sirloin and Noosa spanner crabs Left: The kitchen at Wood Fire Grill.Sheraton Noosa, Hastings St Noosa; phone come with a classic celeriac remoulade with(07) 5449 4888. Maroochydore swordfish and radishes. The food is elegant and refined, and Berardo’s is a special experience from the warm greeting to the tome of a wine list and the romantic, white-on-white room. Montgomery has also taken on the daunting role of executive chef for the four-day Noosa International Food and Wine Festival, from May 15 to May 18. Attracting around 30,000 to a myriad of events hosted over four days, Montgomery’s role is to liaise literally 100s of chefs (and their ego’s) from all over the globe, coordinating their menus, produce and staff for every event from March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 49

winewords A M B A S S A D O R ZAZOSKYE MURTAGH Although you have only been posted to Australia for a short while, have you enjoyed Australian wines since your posting? Sure! I always like having a glass of wine during my meals! I’ve been most impressed by the shiraz and a white chardonnay from Barossa Valley. If our readers visit the wine regions of Italy what would you say they must see and try? I’ll be partial, of course! I suggest visiting Piemonte, Tuscany and Veneto.A LIFE dedicated to diplomatic service What is your earliest \"wine experience\"? What would be the most memorable bottledoesn’t always go hand-in-hand with You should know that luckily I was born of wine you have consumed?travel and the chance to experience in a very renowned Italian region for I’m not that sure, since I’ve tasted so manymultiple cultures, but for Pier Francesco wines, Campania. More specifically, I wonderful wines in my life. I’ve a really goodZazo - fortunately, this has been the case. grew up in the province of the Aglianico souvenir in a bottle of Brunello di MontalcinoZazo’s illustrious career, now spanning and Falanghina, two kinds of wine with a from the Banfi wine cellar, located in Tuscany:close to 30 years, has rewarded him lovely taste. Either can be enjoyed with its intensity and smell was unique!with the opportunity to live and work in both meat and fish.an incredibly diverse range of cities - Has your time in the diplomatic servicethrough postings with the Embassy of How would you say your travels, both influenced your wine tastes?Italy at its headquarters in Seoul (Second diplomatic and private, have affected Of course, since one of the most typicalSecretary Commercial), Stockholm your taste for wines? moments of our job is networking with(First Secretary Commercial), Kiev During my life I’ve travelled a lot in several other people and colleagues during(Counsellor) and Moscow (Commercial countries around the world and the more cocktail or receptions. I’m not able toCounsellor). In October 2013 he was I’ve tasted a wine, the more I’ve started count how many functions I’ve attendedappointed to his most prestigious posting to pay greater attention to its smell, its during my career, it is sure by contrastto date - Ambassador of Italy to Australia. colour and its composition. At the moment that I’ve never tried the same kindBased in Canberra, Ambassador Zazo I cannot consider myself a sommelier of of wine. I’ve been of course influencedoversees bilateral relations between course, but in any case I find in each wine in relation to some flavours, mostlyItaly and Australia - as well as between a secret art and a mix of positive feelings. the prosecco.Italy and six Pacific island states underits jurisdiction (Fiji, Micronesia, Nauru, What would you say to our readers What do you think our readers couldPapua New Guinea, Solomon Islands about the wines from Italy - and how learn from visiting Italy and its wineand Vanuatu). Born in Benevento in do they compare to those in Australia? regions?Italy’s Campania region, Ambassador Italy is undoubtedly a country of wonderful I invite your readers to visit Italy asZazo obtained a degree in Political wines. In our vision, wine is part of our soon as possible, since wine representsScience from Rome’s Luiss University culture and has been for several centuries. one of the utmost goods exported frombefore joining the National Diplomatic When you drink a glass of barolo, chianti Italy, the first wine exporter of the world.Service and attending the Diplomatic or pinot, you are tasting a product coming Only in 2013, 5 billion Euros of wineInstitute of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs from a very safe and generous land like were exported from Italy, 17 million to- also in Rome. Here he shares some the Italian vineyards. The Australian wines Australia. Also, you can have a largeof his personal views about wine and a are from safe lands alike, even though range of regions to visit, from Sicily andfew local insights for those planning a the flavours are different, due to diverse Puglia to Tuscany, Piemonte and Friuli,trip to Italy. climate conditions. from Campania and Abruzzo to Marche and Veneto. The Italian tradition of wine is one of the most important around the world. Moreover, the trip to the vineyards is generally linked to fabulous landscapes and wonderful colours: go to Italy and drink our wine!50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014