NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 WINESTATE VOL 37 ISSUE 6 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Champagne & Sparkling 196 TASTEDChampagne & SPARKLING Pinot Noir HAWKES BAY, NZ NORTH EAST VICTORIA LIMESTONE COAST hunter New Releases 188 TASTED what's on your christmas Wish list? BACK-TO-BACK SEASONAL SUCCESS DRIVES GROWING November/December 2014 OPTIMISM Vol 37 Issue 6 PinotPassionateprint post approved 100003663 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 about US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 ZAR 150 plus Pinot Noir Champagne & Sparkling Best Wine Buys Under $20 North East Victoria Hunter Valley Limestone Coast Hawkes Bay (NZ)
SOUTH AUSTRALIA THE WINE STATEOPEN THE DOOR TOPREMIUM WINE
No.265 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 THE WOLF BLASS FOUNDATIONEditor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Established 1994Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Proudly SupportingNZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] •Australian Wine Education, •Viticultural, OenologicalSub-editor Michael Bates Research & Development,Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] •Wine & Health, •Global WineGraphic Designer Jasmine Holmes E-mail: [email protected] Industry ProfileMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] phone +61 8 8232 5322 [email protected] Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E-mail: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site Justin Martin WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEurope André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESInternational and AustraliaPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2014 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au
contentsNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014feat u r es r eg u la r s26 Back-to-back seasonal success 32 10 Briefs drives growing optimism 19 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper There’s been a significant mood 20 European Report with Sally Easton swing in New Zealand’s Hawke’s 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Bay wine region, writes Michael 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Cooper in his regional profile. After 25 Wine History with Valmai Hankel a run of poor growing seasons 42 Grapevine and negative returns, confidence 46 Wine Words and profitability returned in 2013, 50 What’s it Worth? fuelling a surge in land values and 52 Wine Investment & Collecting speeding up the construction of 83 Subscription form new wineries. 146 Aftertaste28 ‘Lottery’ pay-off for Padthaway 28 wine tastings While the corporate giants have been recognised for opening up the 58 Pinot Noir Padathway wine region 50 years 62 Champagne & Sparkling ago, it is the smaller growers who 78 Limestone Coast are now playing the lead role in 88 Hunter Valley shaping the district’s future, writes 96 North East Victoria Gretel Sneath. The big players began leaving the region in the 1990s, allowing locals to take back control of the region and focus on producing their unique styles.32 In a league of their own 36 Passionate about pinot 102 Hawkes Bay, NZ Boasting one of the nation’s most Despite its late start in Australia 108 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases and New Zealand, pinot is quickly diverse wine regions, North Eastern gaining a loyal following for its cool- climate qualities. Jeni Port reports Victoria has built an enviable that the “sensitive” grape is an intriguing shape shifter, morphing to reputation for producing fine wines, match its growing regions and the people who craft it into wine. writes Michael Hince. From fortifieds and big reds to more refined, cool- climate sparklers, the region has an unmatched palette of climatic conditions and wine styles. 40 A quiet achiever makes his mark 26 Colin Gramp comfortably shoulders the mantle of a wine industry 119 New Releases and superstar, reports Dan Traucki. Best Buys under $20. At 92, Gramp’s contribution to shaping the Barossa Valley has been enormous. Following in his family’s giant footsteps across the valley floor, Gramp set about re-energising the industry after World War II, counting among his successes the introduction of controlled pressure fermentation. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 265 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2014 Cover photograph Mehmet Hilmi Barcin
editorialBY THE TIME YOU READ THIS I WILL HAVE RAILEDagainst the institution of penalty rates that have been a noose around theneck of hospitality businesses, and for that matter many other businesses.As a guest speaker at the October 2014 Winemaker’s Federation OutlookConference I considered what the industry could do to help itself inthe future. Given the fact that the horse has bolted with the duopoly ofsupermarkets now in control of over 70 per cent of sales in Australia, plusbuying in imports that offer high margins and growing their in-house labels,there is little control that small wineries can exercise on the local market.This change has occurred without much of a fight from the industry; infact it contributed to this situation when back in 2005 the then namedFosters group took over the then named Southcorp group thereby havingan amazing portfolio, including the biggest beer brands plus Penfolds,Wynns, Lindemans, Wolf Blass, Rosemount and other smaller brands.Rather than keeping up the margins for itself (and the industry as a whole),it went after market share and discounted its labels. Of course companieslike Hardy’s (at the time) and (then) Orlando Wyndham were not going tojust roll over and let it do that, so a price war resulted. The chains rubbedtheir hands with glee and it has been near impossible to get profit margins back into the black since. You may havenoticed recently all the consolidations, name changes, buyouts, closures, etc since. While consumers revelled inthe discounts, these have come at a big price. Small wineries have been left with mainly cellar door and mail orderoperations, and if they work at it, export sales (particularly to the Asian market). While wet tax has been “doubledipped” by some companies, for the small producers it is their saviour. It has been estimated that a third or moresmall wineries would close their doors if the WET tax was taken away from them.For export I cringe every time we are involved in a Winestate road show helping a group of boutique wineriesselling their wares and seeing the support that the French wine industry gives its supporters while the Australianindustry gives so little. Of course this comes back to government funding; Ubi - France is the French promotionalbody that subsidises around 40 wineries at wine exhibitions around the world, while Wine Australia has to resort toa user pays scheme. Again, where are the big voices demanding attention for our fabulous products (also appliesto our Kiwi cousins)? In their day Len Evans, Murray Tyrrell and Peter Lehmann at his peak would not have stoodfor it. Wolf Blass is arguably the only one left who is maintaining the rage. The French wine industry has beenknown to clog the freeways with truckloads of rotting grapes to get its way. I am not suggesting we do this, butyou get the idea. Has no one told the national tourism bodies that every bottle of wine leaving our shores is sellingBrand Australia (and for the Kiwis, Brand New Zealand). And indeed every state’s wines are selling tourism fromthat state or region. There needs to be more teamwork between the parties involved.But I digress. Back to penalty rates. The reason they are called penalty rates is because they are a penalty onbusiness. In this “Asian Century” we can no longer afford to pay higher rates for weekends or holidays! We areseeing manufacturing closing down week after week, particularly for those companies which have seven-day-a-operations burdened by the penalty wage structure. In this field we include restaurants, cellar door facilitiesand tourism operations. I know of a country bakery which is going to close on weekends and holidays. We havetourists coming into town to closed shops and restaurants. It doesn’t make sense!It is well known that the wine industry basically subsidises most restaurants where mark-ups are 200 - 300 percent and food is usually charged at cost. Some restaurants can afford to stay open on weekends at night wherethe wine subsides the penalty rates, but rarely will they open for breakfast or lunch where they are losing money.The argument during “the good old days” was that penalty rates should be given for workers who had worked a38-hour week and were forced to work weekends or holidays. We now have a completely different scenario wherein South Australia unemployment is over 7 per cent and businesses are closing. It is clear that we have to take ourheads out of the sand and realise that penalty rates are no longer sustainable in this economic climate.To our readers I apologise for being so political, but suggest that the outcome of eliminating penalty rates wouldgreatly affect you also. Apart from keeping some businesses afloat longer, it might encourage a few more hospitalityoutlets to open during weekends and holiday periods, helping wineries to make a profit, and (but don’t hold yourbreath) maybe see some restaurants drop their wine prices.Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherNovember/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 9
briefsTANK TREATMENT MANN ON A MISSIONWHEN Frenchman Jacques Lurton could not source concrete EXPERIENCED Australian winemaker, Rob Mann, has beentanks locally to make wine in at his Kangaroo Island winery he lured away from his job as chief winemaker at Cape Mentelleturned to France - and a tomb maker. It seems concrete wine in Margaret River to work in California. The move is a big pattanks, a feature of winemaking during the ’60s but less so today, on the back to Mann who has been headhunted to improvealso double nicely as family tombs, something a Burgundy- quality at the Newton Vineyard in the Napa Valley. Both Capebased concreter was doing good business in. Mentelle and Newton are part of the French-based luxury goods“You could buy them for two, four or six bodies,” explains Lurton empire, LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy). Mann workedwith an attack of the giggles. And so he ordered a tank with a vintage at Newton in 2007 and is said to be keen to introducesmall door and a lid and voila, he was in business. Today, he environmental sustainability to the Napa vineyard. Mann’s placehas six 8000-litre (eight body) tanks and eight 4000-litre (four at Cape Mentelle will be taken by two members of the LVMHbody) tanks. team - Cameron Murphy (estate director) and Frederique Perrin“I love concrete tanks,” says the winemaker who has been (winemaking and production manager).making wine under The Islander Estate Vineyards label onKangaroo Island since 2003. UPPING THE ANTEHis flagship wine, The Investigator cabernet franc ($75), getsthe full treatment in concrete followed by maturation in a 600 ALREADY a leader in the production of Australian cabernetlitre demi-muid oak vat, producing a most charmingly fragrant, sauvignon, Wynns Coonawarra Estate is upping the ante withsavoury red. a vigorous replanting program and what it calls widespread “renovation” of its vineyards. Since 2001, 25 per cent of its vineyards have been replanted. New clones imported from France as well as Wynn’s own “heritage” material have been used. “Over the last 15 years, the best vines have been isolated in the heritage Wynns vineyards to select high quality propagation material,” says Ben Harris, company viticulturist. Increasingly, Wynns winemakers are looking to fruit that is picked early with optimal flavour and importantly, they say, lower alcohols. Winemaker Sarah Pidgeon says she picks grapes earlier for “brightness and freshness,” and often moves through the vineyards twice to harvest fruit. “The first pick brings vibrancy and lightness,” she says. “The second pick is about flavour and weight.”wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32710 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
briefsIMPRESSIVE PLANS CHANGING OF THE GUARDTHE HICKINBOTHAM Clarendon Vineyard in McLaren Vale is oneof the most beautiful in the country with its spectacular contours and THERE is a change of the guardit has also provided fruit for icon wines such as Penfolds Grange, happening at Peter LehmannEileen Hardy and Clarendon Hills. Established by Alan Hickinbotham Wines, with chief winemakerin 1971 when he planted dry-grown cabernet sauvignon and shiraz Andrew Wigan to retire at the endon the sloping site, the vineyard was sold in late 2011 to US-based of 2014 and senior winemaker IanJackson Family Wines, which has vineyard holdings in the US, Hongell named as his successor.Chile, France and Italy, as well as owning the highly-regarded Lehmann CEO Jeff Bond says theYangarra Vineyard 4km down the road, which produces outstanding appointment is a natural evolutionbiodynamic wines. in the winemaking team, buildingJackson Family Wines is a global powerhouse and has some on Wigan’s achievements at theimpressive plans for the site, including a conversion to biodynamic winery over the past 35 years.farming down the track. It paid a reported $10 million for the estate, “Andrew and Ian have worked together for 16 years and takenwhich includes 83ha of vines and two historical homes on a total winemaking to new levels,” Bond says. “This followed theof 180ha. formidable working partnership of Andrew and Peter LehmannVines have been planted in the region since 1858 and Clarendon is which began years before our winery was established in 1979.at a higher altitude and is much cooler than most of McLaren Vale. “Ian is a talented and innovative winemaker, and staunch defenderJackson Family Wines has launched its inaugural wines - four of the values Peter Lehmann Wines was founded on. He is lookingdifferent 2012 premium reds under the Hickinbotham Clarendon forward to pursuing the continued development into vineyards andlabel - from the site to instant acclaim. They are the Revivalist Merlot, greater diversification of varieties in recent years.”Brooks Road Shiraz, The Peake Cabernet Shiraz and the outstanding Bond praised Wigan’s career as “a significant chapter in the storyTrueman Cabernet Sauvignon. of Australian wine”. “His winemaking skills turned a strugglingThe wines, more elegant and nuanced than many McLaren Vale reds, start-off winery, founded during a dark time in the industry, intoare made by a team comprising local Charlie Seppelt, a member one of the most respected brands in the country.”of one of Australia’s most famous vigneron families and American Wigan’s achievements include winning the Jimmy Watson TrophyChris Carpenter, who is responsible for high-end Californian labels for the 1989 Stonewell Shiraz, and being named Internationallike Lokoya, La Jota and Cardinale, and says he aims to craft Wine and Spirit Competition’s International Winemaker of the Year“world-class wines that represent this great vineyard and speak in 2003 and 2006.of its unique site”. Seppelt says: “We’re both thrilled with the 2012 Wigan will continue to consult to Hongell’s team on fruit intake,wines and what the future holds for us and this vineyard’s legacy. planning and classification tastings, and will also continueIt’s a remarkable site and an overwhelming opportunity to work with to fly the flag for Peter Lehmann and Australian wine as athe quality fruit it produces.” travelling ambassador. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 11
briefsBUDGET BEATERS BAROSSA BARONSWINE drinkers on a tight budget should keep an eye out for the new- THE BAROSSA wine fraternity has named Reid Bosward, Anitalook range of Long Row wines from Angoves, which has enjoyed a Bowen, Joanne Irvine, Kym Teusner and James Wark as thehuge surge in popularity since being relaunched. newest Barons of Barossa. Stephen Henschke, the fraternity’s Grand Master said: “The Barossa wine fraternity has always With an RRP of $10, the wines are widely regarded as a benchmark recognised those who have made significant contributionsfor single varietal, great quality affordable wines, says chief throughout their lives. It also aims to reward the currentwinemaker Tony Ingle. “Sourced predominately from the family’s generation of winemakers who are the forerunners of the newsignificant vineyards in the Riverland region, blended with parcels world of wine, those who will lead us into the future.”from McLaren Vale, Barossa and Coonawarra, Long Row wines areall about giving our customers a glass of wine that is true to variety Bosward, winemaker and general manager at Kaeslerwithout breaking their budget,” says Ingle. New releases in the range Vineyards, said: “The Barossa wine fraternity is working toinclude a 2014 moscato, 2014 pinot grigio, 2014 sauvignon blanc, safeguard this region’s culture and heritage, and I’m really2014 riesling, 2013 merlot and 2013 shiraz. proud to be part of the preservation of place. When I began in this industry, I looked up to people like Bob McLean and Colin‘CHILLY’ WARMS TO RETIREMENT Glaetzer. Now to be standing alongside them is an honour.”AFTER more than 40 years in the Bowen, who makes wines under the Balthazar of the Barossawine industry and 20 years with label, said: “This is more than people just dressing up inTreasury Wine Estates, sparkling traditional gowns and holding events, it is really a way to reflectwinemaking icon Charles “Chilly” the Barossa’s traditional community values. It reminds us ofHargrave has retired. During where the Barossa comes from and its place in the future.”his long career in the industry,Hargrave spent time working HILLS HOTSPOTwith some of Australia’s leadingbrands and has been a mentor THE ADELAIDE Hills has a new wine hotspot - the Sam Scottto many of the industry’s talented Wines cellar door in Hahndorf, which the winemaker describesyounger winemakers. Treasury as a “wine lounge”. Open every Saturday and Sunday betweenWine Estate chief winemaker Mark 11am-5pm, it offers guests the choice to sit down to a structuredRobertson said: “With decades wine flight ($5) or a charcuterie plate for two ($15) with theof experience in sparkling availability of Scott and La Prova wines by the glass.winemaking, Chilly has becomean authority on the category and has been a wonderful asset The wine flights comprise a selection of five wines, a pieceto our team. The contribution he has made is great and he will of Udder Delights Chevre and some savoury biscuits, and thebe missed; we would like to thank Chilly for his commitment flights change from time to time to keep up with the seasons.and dedication and wish him all the best in his retirement.” The wine flight is the equivalent measure of one standardHargrave’s passion for making wine began in 1973 when he restaurant glass, split across the five wines, and equates tostarted working in a vineyard in Eden Valley. He then worked approximately 1.6 standard drinks, so guests know exactly whatin wineries in Barossa, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley before they are consuming.commencing at Roseworthy in 1976. After a varied career,he began with Treasury Wine Estates (Mildara Blass) in 1994 Other wineries without cellar doors also sometimes host tastingsbased in McLaren Vale and was appointed group sparkling at the new facility, including Adam and Brooke Lampit fromwinemaker in 1999. In 2013 he also took on responsibility Lambrook Wines, Hylton McLean and Jane Bromley of Honeyfor Treasury Wine Estate’s Tasmanian wines, Heemskerk and Moon Vineyard and David LeMire and Peter Leske from La Linea.Abel’s Tempest, working with winemaker Peter Munro and Full details of what is happening can be found at www.scottwines.viticulturist Jamie Hewet. com.au/whats-on/ and the cellar door is at 102 Main St, Hahndorf; (behind the Rockbare cellar door); phone (08) 8388 7330.12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
briefsPIONEER PASSES PREMIUM PAIRMARIA CASELLA, family JACOB’S CREEK has unveiled a pair of new premium red winesmatriarch and co-founder of that have been first matured in oak and then finished off inCasella Family Brands and whisk(e)y barrels.its flagship brand Yellow Tail, The new Double Barrel range comprises a Barossa 2012died in Brisbane in August, Shiraz finished in 20-year-old Scottish whisky barrels and aaged 87. 2012 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon finished in similarlyBorn Maria Patane, she aged Irish whiskey barrels. Chief winemaker Bernard Hickinmarried her childhood says the new wines, which retail for around $25 a bottle, havesweetheart, Filippo Casella, in exceeded expectations when it comes to quality - but only after1947 and in 1957 joined him in some experimentation in the winery. “Our winemakers quicklyAustralia, where he had been learnt that the double barrel finishing process gave additionalworking. Son, John Casella, softness, complexity and flavour to the wines, but it took twosaid his mother was “a highly years of trials to get the process right,” Hickin said. “Eachrespected woman who worked barrel performs differently so it took us some time to come uphard to provide for her family”. with the perfect balance.”“My mother was integral to The Jacob’s Creek team discovered that bigger red wine styles,the creation of Casella Family like shiraz, reacted best with Scottish whiskey barrels andBrands and the birth of the Yellow Tail brand,” he said. “From the cabernet sauvignon worked better with the less intense, smoother,early days spent travelling from the Riverina region to far North Irish whiskey barrels.Queensland selling their locally produced wine, to the incredible The wines are made in the normal way with 18 months in French12.5 million cases we now produce every year, our family business and American oak barrels before spending up to six weeks in theis a heroic tale of success that is testament to my parents and whisk(e)y barrels, which are made in a different way to traditionaltheir determination, and hard work from the beginning.” wine barrels, being scorched at a greater heat, releasing naturalMaria Casella is survived by daughter Rosa and sons Joe, John wood sugars, and having narrow staves, which allows for moreand Marcello, all of whom work for the family business. oxygen exchange. Many of the finest wines from Bordeaux are given similar micro- oxygenation to soften them, and make them more approachable “We hope the style of these wines will appeal both to wine drinkers and to whisk(e)y lovers,” Hickin says. “There has been no attempt to give the wines a spirity flavour, but we think the whisk(e)y barrels do give a softening element and add interest on the palate. We are fortunate that the initial releases are from the excellent 2012 vintage so we can come out with all guns blazing - and we have chosen fruit from two of the best red wine regions in the country.” Hickin describes the shiraz as a “blokey” wine designed unashamedly to appeal to male consumers.DUCK IN STANDING BY CHARDONNAYTHERE is a new attraction at the St Hallett cellar door in the AT A TIME when many wine companies are looking to theBarossa Valley - already one of the most popular tasting next new white wine grape variety, Vasse Felix is standing byfacilities in the region. chardonnay. The Margaret River producer has introduced a third chardonnay St Hallett has started selling duck platters on Friday, Saturday to its stable, creating three separate quality and price points.and Sunday - and they have proven a runaway success. Theplatters consist of duck bresaola, duck paté made using St The Vasse Felix chardonnay of old now takes the name “Filius”Hallett fortified, and duck terrine, and are served with house- ($27) allowing room for the introduction of a new chardonnaymade fruit bread. All ingredients are made on-site at St Hallett ($37) positioned under the Heytesbury chardonnay flagshipby Stuart Oldfield and the platters cost $35 each. ($65). “We call it our Premier chardonnay,” says Vasse Felix chief winemaker Virginia Willcock “but in years to come I’m sure the word premier will not be necessary. It’s the chardonnay that I thought was missing (from the Vasse Felix portfolio) for years.” The Premier chardonnay makes use of new vineyards purchased since 2006 and the introduction of new clones. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 13
briefsTERRE TRIUMPH 2012 Pinot Noir. The list sways from small Mornington producers like Garagiste andTERRE, the new restaurant attached to the Dromana Estate cellar door,is creating a lot of excitement on the Mornington Peninsula with its casual Cappi Estate through eclectic choices from interesting regions ofbut innovative food and relaxed vibe. But Terre’s popularity comes France and Italy; a comfortable journey through both the New Worldas no surprise as the team behind the restaurant, at the old Tuerong and Old World.homestead overlooking the Dromana Estate vines, has plenty ofexperience in top-end restaurants with front-of-house manager Clinton Terre, 555 Old Moorooduc Rd, Tuerong; phone (03) 5974 3155. www.Trevisi and kitchen couple Rowan and Janine Harrald all having enjoyed terre.com.au. Lunch: Wednesday-Sunday. Dinner: Friday-Saturday.long stints at the legendary and much-awarded Royal Mail in Dunkeld. FALLING OUT OVER FUNDS The dining room here is light and airy, and casually dressed staff aremature and professional but never stuffy. The menu changes constantly, A SQUABBLE over money with the Australian Bureau of Statisticsreflecting what is available locally and seasonally, but do check out (ABS) has left the Australian wine industry without access to keythe house-cured meats, including a Wagyu bresaola. The charcuterie statistics and information. Traditionally, the industry has paid theplates here, including duck salami, are justifiably in demand. There is ABS to collect and access data, but no more since the governmentan on-site kitchen garden providing vegetables and herbs, and produce department put its fees up. Accordingly, 2010-12 figures are nowis sourced, occasionally foraged, from across both the peninsula and the most up-to-date for winemakers to work on. “It (the ABS) saidGippsland. All pastries and desserts are also made in-house. we had to pay twice as much to get half as much information,” says Lawrie Stanford, executive director of Wine Grape Growers Australia. The food here is described as “high-end bistro”. “We are not trying to “It was unaffordable.”replicate the Royal Mail in any way,” Trevisi says. “It’s about strippingback the formal dining experience and offering high quality service Industry bodies have agreed to look into a feasibility study of theand interesting food with a relaxed atmosphere.” industry collecting its own data. Meanwhile, with no access to up to date information on grape varieties planted and national and state The wine list is small, certainly in comparison to that of the Royal production figures, etc, Australia’s $3.4 billion wine industry will find itMail, but is well composed with a selection of 10 wines by the glass, difficult to make supply and demand projections going into the future.including the Eldridge Estate 2013 Fume Blanc and a Dromana Estate ALDILiquor aldiliquor.com.au Australia’s Best Value LIquor retAILer* Over 200 wine, beer and spirits are available at your fingertips from our every day range and exciting special buys. Order now on your smartphone, tablet or desktop for quality liquor delivered straight to your door. free delivery when you spend over $300† Delivery charges are on a per case basis. (†Excludes Beer and RTD’s. This offer is valid for selected Eastern Seaboard Delivery locations only.) ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18. On-line sales made pursuant to the Authority of packaged liquor licence no: LIQP770010278. *Roy Morgan Single Source (Australia), January 2013- December 2013. n=8,460. Base: Australians 18+ who specified the store they usually purchase alcohol.14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
briefsFOCUS ON SLOVENIA RAISE A GLASS FOR KIDS IN NEEDWINES from Slovenia are enjoying immense popularity in ONE OF Australia’s more unique charity events - the sixth annualLondon and the Slovene capital, Ljubljana, is becoming a Variety Vintage Luncheon - will be held in Adelaide in November. Thegourmet hot spot with its many cafes, restaurants and wine bars. luncheon has the support of many of the nation’s well-known wineriesOne of the funkiest bases from which to explore Ljubljana is and funds generated support Variety Club SA. This year’s supportingthe Vander Urbani Resort, a Design Hotel with ultra-cool rooms wineries - Tim Adams, Charles Melton, Henschke, Elderton, Barossaand public areas in the heart of the old town, where many of the Valley Estate, Brothers in Arms, Kaesler, Majella, Penny’s Hill, Peterbuildings date back several centuries. The Vander Urbani, part Lehmann, St Hallett and Wick’s Estate - have each donated a barrelAustralian owned, comprises just 16 rooms in four renovated of their best 2013 vintage wine, bottled and labelled, to be auctionedold houses just under Castle Hill on the banks of the River along with private cellar collection pieces during the luncheon. TicketsLjubljanica, in a pedestrian-only district dotted with cafes and cost $140 per person or $1400 for a table of 10 and include a three-eateries. The hotel entrance is tucked away down a quiet lane. course meal. Since the luncheon’s inception in 2007, initiated by ClareThere’s a roof-top terrace with a tiny pool, a yoga studio and a Valley winemaker and Variety Vintage chairman Tim Adams, more35-seater bar/restaurant serving breakfast, set lunches and a than $650,000 has been raised for sick, disadvantaged and specialla carte dinners, featuring traditional Slovenian specialities like needs children. “It is great to see so many respected wineries comeslovenski struklji, dumplings with asparagus, cottage cheese, on board to help empower children in need,” Adams said. “There ischives and wild garlic. nothing better than a fantastic food and wine event, and to know that you are helping kids at the same time adds extra enjoyment to the The lower level wine cellar (guests are welcome to walk in day.” Master of ceremonies, wine writer Jeremy Oliver, will be joinedand make their selection) features some intriguing wines from by guest speaker Dr Fiona Woods at the top table and guests will beSlovenia (more than 170 labels) and bottles from France, Italy, able to sample an extensive range of wines, including Tim Adams TheNew Zealand and the US. Aberfeldy, Charles Melton Crown Village Shiraz and Kaesler Bogan Shiraz. Variety Vintage Luncheon, Nov 14, National Wine Centre; Vander Urbani Resort, Krojaska ulica 6, 1000 Ljubljana; phone phone (08) 8293 8744 for ticket sales or visit www.variety.org.au/sa.+386 1 200 9000. www.vanderhotel.com. Bookings throughwww.designhotels.com. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 15
briefsFIZZY FESTIVAL SETTING A NEW COURSEJOSEF CHROMY will be the venue for the first Effervescence EXPERIENCED winemaker Sam Connew has started her ownTasmania sparkling weekend on the weekend of October 31 consultancy firm: Compass Wine Consulting as well as continuingand November 1. The new festival is designed as “a celebration to work on her embryonic Stargazer Tasmanian label. Until recentlyof the world class sparkling wines” from Tasmania shown engaged by the Australian Wine Research Institute as manageralongside artisan gourmet products. The event will include of the Hunter Valley Node, working on a range of regional applieda grand dinner, public tastings and master classes, with research, development and extension projects, she is now advisingspeakers including Andrew Pirie (Apogee), Ed Carr (House Of several small producers. Prior to this she was the winemaker/Arras), Natalie Fryar (Jansz) and Loic Le Calvez (Clover Hill). manager of boutique Hunter Valley winery, Tower Estate, after workingDineen describes it as: “One of the most exciting wine events in McLaren Vale for 10 years as senior winemaker at Wirra Wirra.to take place in Tasmania and an unparalleled opportunity to Connew has been named International Red Winemaker of the Yeartaste some of the world’s greatest sparkling wines.” For details at the International Wine Challenge in London, and in 2008 she wassee www.effervescencetasmania.com. a South Australian finalist in the Telstra Business Women’s Awards. A wine show judge and panel chair, and senior judge at many regionalPREMUM RED and capital city wine shows, she has completed both the Advanced Wine Assessment Course and the Len Evans Tutorial. She is currentlyCALIFORNIAN-BASED Jackson Family Wines has unveiled chairman of judges at the Royal Sydney Wine Show. In late 2013 sheits latest Australian investment two years after buying the launched her first solo project, Stargazer, with pinot noir, riesling andrenowned Hickinbotham vineyard in McLaren Vale. A series chardonnay sourced from premium Tasmanian vineyards.of premium red wines priced from $75 to $150 carry theHickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard name, maintaining a NAPA BOUNDreference to the work carried out by the vineyard’s founder,the late Alan Hickinbotham and his son, David. Winemaking CAPE MENTELLE chief winemaker Rob Mann has become wineduties are carried out by American winemaker, Chris Carpenter, director at Newton Vineyard in the Napa Valley as owner LVMH seeksand Australian-based maker, Charlie Seppelt. Carpenter is a to lift quality at the Californian estate. The move comes only a fewBordeaux specialist with a love of cabernet sauvignon. “There months after Cape Mentelle angered some Margaret River producers,is some really old, old vine cabernet here, 80 years old, that most notably Flametree, by threatening legal action over the usagewe just don’t get to see in the Napa,” he says of the Clarendon of the Wallcliffe name on their labels. Mann told local media thatvineyard fruit. Seppelt, whose great, great grandfather founded the time he spent at Newton in 2007 as senior winemaker helpedSeppeltsfield, is the Rhone Valley grape varieties specialist. him back his decision to switch continents. “My role is to elevate“It’s so bloody exciting and invigorating to deal with such Newton to the top handful of Napa producers and be recognisedfruit,” he says. internationally for the quality of its cabernet and chardonnay,” he said.The wine the two collaborate the most on is the $150 flagship Mann joined Cape Mentelle in 2005 and his previous role has beenred, a typically Australian cabernet shiraz. “In the US we don’t split with LVMH promoting Cameron Murphy to estate director andthink of blending these two varieties,” explains Carpenter. “The Frederique Perrin, most recently oenology and production managercreative leeway you have in your industry is more than us. I’m at Champagne Krug, named as technical director.really excited by this wine.” VISIONARY APPROACH NICOLAS FEUILLATTE, founder of the number one selling champagne brand in France, has died aged 88. In 1971, he and his brother bought 12ha on Champagne’s Montagne de Reims and developed a vineyard. Described as “daring and visionary in his approach” with “boundless energy and a profoundly independent spirit”, Feuillatte initially produced champagne to sell to his celebrity friends in the US, but last year the company exported 10.4 million bottles of champagne, making it the third-best-selling champagne brand in the world behind Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. Nicolas Feuillatte produces a broad range of champagnes from an entry-level collection to a Grand Cru range designed to be enjoyed with food. Its prestige cuvee, Palmes d’Or, is a vintage pinot noir and chardonnay blend from top sites such as Le Mesnil, Chouilly and Ambonnay, aged for a minimum of nine years and sold in a dimpled black bottle. It also produces Palmes d’Or Rosé. Sold in 76 countries, Nicolas Feuillatte is imported into Australia by Angove Family Winemakers.16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneWINE WINERIES FOR SALEPERSONALITIESHONOURED Like to buy a NZ winery? There are currently lots for sale. Fierce, intensifying competition in the domestic market between theTwo prominent wine country’s 700-odd producers is an obvious cause. Winery owners,industry figures were often in their 60s, who postponed their move during the globalrecognised in the 2014 recession, which coincided with an oversupply of NZ wine, haveQueens Birthday Honours also calculated that now is potentially a more lucrative time to bowList. Known for his out of the industry.dynamic managementand entrepreneurial Highfield Estate, on an elevated site with spectacular views on thesuccess in the medical south side of the Wairau Valley, in Marlborough, is on the marketpublishing and athletics following the sudden death in 2012 of co-owner Tom Tenuwera.worlds, Sir Graeme Highfield’s 82ha of vineyards and popular, Tuscan-inspired wineryAvery is the driving force and restaurant, have been valued at over $NZ4.5 million.behind one of the mostarchitecturally striking Isabel Estate, also based in the Wairau Valley, is open to offerswineries in Hawke’s Bay, - investors can either buy a share in the company, enabling it toSileni Estates. Founded expand production beyond the current 45,000 cases, or purchasein 1997, Sileni now has an it outright. Owned by Mike and Robyn Tiller, Isabel released its firstannual output of 750,000 vintage in 1994. The brand, well known in the UK, probably peakedcases - including a large volume of Marlborough sauvignon in terms of prestige more than a decade ago.blanc - and exports to 76 countries. Avery’s appointment as aKnight Companion of the New Zealand Order of Merit was for On Waiheke Island, three highly respected wineries are for sale -“services to business and sport”. Obsidian Vineyard, Te Whau Vineyard and Kennedy Point Vineyard. Melba Brajkovich, matriarch of the Kumeu River winery in HEAVY HARVESTAuckland, was made a Member of the New Zealand Order ofMerit for “services to the wine industry and the community”. It was huge. New Zealand’s 2014 crop of 445,000 tonnes exceededAfter the death of her husband, Mate, in 1992, Melba the previous record, set a year ago, by 29 per cent. Hard on theassumed the position of managing director. Renowned for heels of the bumper 2013 vintage, 2014 produced an even heavierher hospitality, she has entertained a host of personalities crop, equivalent to an extra seven million cases (or 84 millionat the Kumeu River table, including Peter Ustinov, Jacques bottles) of NZ wine to sell.Rogge and Thor Heyerdahl. The Marlborough region dominated production, with 77 per centPASSING THE BUCK of the harvest, far ahead of Hawke’s Bay (10 per cent) and Gisborne (4 per cent). Sauvignon blanc accounted for most of the varietalForty years after John Buck and Michael Morris purchased the crush (72 per cent), trailed distantly by pinot noir (9 per cent),Te Mata vineyard and winery in Hawke’s Bay - established in chardonnay (7 per cent) and pinot gris (6 per cent). The quality1892 but then in a run-down condition - a generational change of the wines will be a mixed bag. After a warm growing season,has taken place. Nicholas Buck, John and Wendy’s son, has many producers, especially in the North Island, processed an earlybeen appointed as chief executive, and his older brother, harvest, but in April, notably high rainfall disrupted the vintage inJonathan, and Michael’s son, Alistair, have been appointed as Marlborough, Nelson and Canterbury. In Marlborough, “those whodirectors. “We are enormously proud of being a New Zealand got their fruit in before the skies opened are rubbing their handsfamily business,” says Nicholas. “Totally focused on Hawke’s with glee”, reported New Zealand Winegrower. “The others areBay, we own our vineyards, and undertake all the winemaking ruing heavy, slow-ripening crops and uncharacteristic weather.”and marketing processes ourselves.” Another “young Buck”,Toby, is Te Mata Estate’s new sales and marketing executive. Mahi Wines says the 2014 harvest was one that “tested aAfter a decade in book publishing and retailing in New Zealand number of vineyards that were still out late in the vintage and oneand the UK, Toby is adamant that he has “come some way in that rewarded lower crops and favourable sites, as they will havelife. From growing up in the Coleraine house to now working at ripened earlier”.the winery, that would be about 500m.” “Sauvignon blanc is probably not as punchy as 2013,” says Cloudy Bay, “but there is going to be a wider array of aromas and flavours in the wine”. Nautilus reported that “chardonnay and pinot noir look exceptional, and pinot gris and sauvignon blanc are very strong”.18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS michael cooper EVERY SECOND COUNTS“CONSUMERS know they can now get a Estate; and Crazy by Nature, from The at under $NZ15, scooped the trophiesbloody good bottle in the $NZ15 to $NZ20 Millton Vineyard. for Champion Sauvignon Blanc andrange,” says one of New Zealand’s most Open White. Lindauer Rosé, often onexperienced wine marketers. “So it’s I’ve often organised group tastings which “special” around the country for $NZ9.99,understandable that many think: ‘Why feature, for instance, three chardonnays was awarded the trophy for Championshould I pay $NZ40?’.” (priced at $NZ15, $NZ30 and $NZ45), and Sparkling Wine. three pinot noirs (priced at $NZ20, $NZ35 The middle-sized winery he runs once and $NZ50). Tasted “blind”, the most During the global economic recession,sold two-thirds of its output under its popular wines are frequently the cheapest. consumers who previously bought high-top, relatively high-priced brand and priced wines often looked around forthe rest under a cheaper, second label. Expensive labels, made for cellaring, cheaper labels, exerting a downwardNow it’s the reverse (and the company in their youth can be challenging, rather pressure on wine prices in general. Toalso recently released an even cheaper than delicious. Lower-priced wines are retain their customers, many wineriesbrand, designed specifically for sale in not necessarily expected to mature well, searched for cheaper ways to make theirsupermarkets. but should offer easy, enjoyable drinking wines. For instance, one of New Zealand’s from the start. most acclaimed wineries slashed its But what exactly is a second label? purchase of new oak barrels by about 50The idea originated long ago in France A major trend in recent years in New per cent. Its top reds are still matured inas a way for producers of red Bordeaux Zealand wine competitions and magazine French oak barriques, but typically 25 per tastings has been for modestly priced, “fruit- cent, rather than 50 per cent new, and its middle-tier reds, previously fully barrel-During the global economic recession, consumers aged, are now matured in a mix of tankswho previously bought high-priced wines often and barrels.looked around for cheaper labels, exerting adownward pressure on wine prices in general. The result is a new wave of fresh, buoyantly fruity reds that many wine loversprofitably to market wines made from driven” styles to be rated higher and higher enjoy just as much, if not more. That’sgrapes from relatively young, immature - often ahead of more youthful, complex a win-win situation, for producers andvines. These were also often given less and expensive bottlings. One high profile consumers.expensive oak handling (in other words, example is Pencarrow Martinborough Pinotmatured in older, rather than new casks). Noir 2010 ($29), which was awarded the So next time you dine at the White House,Approachable, young and about half the trophies for Champion Pinot Noir and Open don’t expect to be served a super-chargedprice of the grand cru, these second-label Red at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards Napa Valley “cult” cabernet, made in tinywines must, by law, be grown in the same 2011. Pencarrow is the second label of volumes, awarded 100 points by winevineyard as the top label. Palliser Estate. critics and selling for about $US1000. Daniel Shanks, the sommelier since the Elsewhere, there are no such controls At the same show, Dashwood Clintons were in residence, believes “highover use of the term “second label”. The Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011, one prices do not guarantee high enjoyment.good news is that producers in New of the lowest-priced wines in the Foley For that reason, some ‘trophy’ wines mayZealand that excel with their top brands Family Wines portfolio, often found on never appear on the President’s table”.also often strive to offer great value with “special” at under $NZ10, was awardedtheir second labels. One of the most the trophies for Champion Sauvignon Oz Clarke, the prominent UK wine critic,striking examples is the high quality, yet Blanc and Open White. agrees with Shanks. “Often nowadays,sharply priced, Main Divide selection, from you’ll find a wine labeled ‘tradition’ orPegasus Bay. Others that consistently Celebrating highly affordable wines was ‘classic’... the winery’s cheapest offering.offer superb value include Pencarrow, also a theme of the Air New Zealand Wine Buy it. This is the wine that hasn’t beenfrom Palliser Estate; Momo, from Seresin Awards 2012. Wither Hills Marlborough mucked about with - over-ripened, over- Sauvignon Blanc 2012, often on “special” oaked, over-extracted - to try to please a few globetrotting critics. This is the one the owner and the winemaker will drink.” November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 19
europeanreport WORDS sally easton MWNew player in the game of bubbliesFRANCE has a new cremant appellation. spent time maturing on yeast lees (autolytic also use other regional grape varieties,The alpine region of Savoie (Savoy) east of character) in the self-same bottle from including aligote, pinot blanc and gamay.Lyon, has been given permission to make which you are pouring.traditional method sparkling wines under For the record, Alsace is allowed to usethe Cremant de Savoie moniker. Fruit from It typically takes some time for these auxerrois, chardonnay, pinot blanc, pinotthe 2014 harvest (September/October in autolytic flavours to begin to emerge which gris, pinot noir and riesling. Bordeauxthe northern hemisphere) can be used, is why traditional method sparkling wines uses all the grape varieties from theand the bubblies marketed from December in the EU have minimum stipulated time on region with which we’re familiar, so yes,2015, after the wines have spent at least lees. Non-vintage Champagne must have potentially sparkling wine from cabernet12 months maturing on their lees in bottle. at least 12 months’ maturation on lees (36 sauvignon, cabernet franc et al. Die uses months for vintage). As another aside, this local clairette and muscat a petits grains Cremant is a special category of sparkler. is below the 18 months level suggested by (the same as brown muscat in Australia);It is a precisely (legally) defined umbrella research before these flavour characters Jura uses pinot gris, pinot noir, poulsard,term used to describe any traditional really start to come out in an expressive chardonnay and savagnin; Limoux usesmethod sparkling wine made in France, manner. For cremants, time on lees is chardonnay, chenin blanc, mauzac andbut outside the region of Champagne. stipulated as at least nine months (the same pinot noir; and Loire uses, among others,Champagne can only (legally) be used to for Cava, as it happens). chardonnay, chenin, cabernet franc,describe the sparkling wines made in the cabernet sauvignon, grolleau and pinot The new Cremant de Savoie is actually noir. So while certain uniform production rules exist, different growing climates andTo make it more complicated, or perhaps more varietal composition make the cremantregionally representative, permitted grape varieties are category a broad one.often stipulated in specified proportions. To make it more complicated, or perhapsChampagne region of France. It is a heavily France’s eighth cremant appellation to more regionally representative, permitted(legally) protected term. No other bubblies be created. Several prominent, and less grape varieties are often stipulated inare allowed to be called Champagne (apart prominent, French regions have their specified proportions. Thus the newfrom one or two producers in the US who own sparkling wine appellation - Alsace, cremant appellation Savoie stipulates awere granted “grandfather rights” in an Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die (in the Rhone minimum of 40 per cent of the blend mustEU-US trade agreement). In Spain, the valley), Jura, Limoux and Loire. use jacquere, and at least 60 per cent of theterm “Cava” is used to describe traditional blend must use jacquere and altesse. Themethod bubblies, Method Cap Classique It’s not just the length of maturation time balancing 40 per cent can include aligotein South Africa, and in France outside the on lees that is legislated in the European (also found in Burgundy), chasselas andChampagne region - cremant. Union. As well as maximum yield, planting chardonnay. Phew! density, hand harvesting, among other As an aside, sekt is a term you may things, the grape varieties allowed to be Such complicated compositionalsee on sparklers made in Germany, but used are also controlled. Conveniently, for stipulations can be seen in another newthis just means sparkling. It could have the bubblies, the permitted grape varieties French appellation, that of Terrasses dubeen made sparkling by any method, are invariably the ones that the region uses Larzac, in the Languedoc. This is a newincluding carbonation. Similarly spumante for its still wines (which are also controlled). appellation just for still red wine. Get youron Italian sparklers just means sparkling. It Thus Cremant de Bourgogne is typically head round this one: five red grape varietiesoffers no insight as to the possible flavour regarded as a “Champagne look-alike” are permitted in the new appellation -experience you may have - the aromatically because it uses its region’s still wine staples grenache, mourvedre (mataro), carignan,spicy, yeasty, creamy, doughy, bready, chardonnay and pinot noir, which are also syrah and cinsault. All good varieties. Allpastry, toasty, nutty notes of bubbly having the mainstay grapes of Champagne. It can typical of the Languedoc region in the Mediterranean south of France. Right, any wine must be made from at least three of these grape varieties. The vineyards from20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
which the fruit come must be planted in Yorke Peninsula’scertain slightly flexible proportions. The award winningfirst four grape varieties must comprise at vineyardleast 75 per cent, which means cinsaultcannot be more than 25 per cent. And,no one of the first four grape varieties canbe more than 75 per cent. So you couldn’thave a vineyard that comprised 80 per centgrenache, 10 per cent mourvedre, 10 percent syrah. Clear? The significance of the appellationis that the appellation is new. The 60producers and five co-operatives in thenewly delimited 2000ha have their ownappellation; they’re no longer making wineunder a broader, more general appellation.It’s like a promotion or elevation in hierarchy,and it’s something the producers haveworked many years to achieve. It’s not newthat they’ve only just started making wine.And having your own appellation sets theproducers apart, as making somethingdistinct and separate from their neighbours,ideally with a unique identity. PreviouslyTerrasses du Larzac was labelled asan adjunct to a much bigger regionalappellation: thus a wine would have beenlabelled Languedoc: Terrasses du Larzac. It’s a pretty diverse region, nearMontpellier, with the garrigue typical of theLanguedoc. Vineyards range from 80mto 400m above sea level, so the highervineyards benefit from some altitudinalcooling to keep freshness and acidity inthe fruit, with a summer diurnal temperaturerange up to 20C. As with the new Cremant appellation inSavoie, it is hoped that wines from the 2014vintage will qualify for the new appellationname. At the time of writing it had beenapproved by INAO, the body that regulatesthe appellation system in France. The finalmissing link for Terrasses du Larzac wasthe signature of the relevant French ministryon the decree.
winetutor WORDS clive hartleyProsecco popularity bubbling awayINTERNATIONALLY and in Australia only been protected in Europe since region for prosecco production. Sothe sale of sparkling wine is rocketing. 2009. Wines were mentioned in Pliny’s much so that six producers got togetherThis year in the UK, for instance, sales encyclopedia Historia Naturalis (AD and launched the “Prosecco Road” tohave risen by 20 per cent and this 77-79) and the first sparkling wines promote their wines. The promotion isdramatic growth has been led by Italian date from the late nineteenth century. led by Dal Zotto Wines, which producesprosecco with customers choosing Prosecco DOC lies between Veneto three different styles. All three are madeit over other sparkling wines such as and Friuli Venezia Giulia and includes from prosecco grapes - a non-vintage,Spanish cava. In the DOC of prosecco nine provinces. Two sub regions in the a vintage (both called Pucino) and itsalone a staggering 241 million bottles province of Treviso are recognised as ‘L’Immigrante’ a traditional methodwere produced in 2013. the heart of production and classified sparkling wine. Winemaker Michael Dal as separate DOCG’s - Conegliano Zotto takes up the story: “The vines were Prosecco in Europe refers to a Valdobbiadene and Asolo. first planted in 1999 by my father Otto.protected region of production in Italyand not a grape variety. Given our Traditional prosecco has to taste dry, with floral,lengthy trade negotiations with the EU apple, pear and citrus fruit aromas.you would expect this law to be appliedto Australia as well, but it doesn’t. When In April 2011 an Italian Ministerial We sourced them in 1997 from the Delcinwe use the term in Australia it describes Decree no longer identified prosecco as family and my understanding is that wea grape variety. If you hit the textbooks a grape and the national register of vine had the first commercial plantings ofsuch as Jancis Robinson et al seminary varieties replaced prosecco with glera, prosecco. In 2004 we released our firstbook Wine Grapes (Harper/Collins 2012) which they claim is the old and rightful prosecco which was the first released bythe entry for the grape prosecco starts name of the grape. Prosecco in Italy can an Australian winery.”by stating “the dominant, rather neutral be made from another eight varieties,grape for prosecco sparkling wine, including bianchetta, perera, verdiso, Production of prosecco is normally byprobably Istrian. Misleadingly renamed glera lunga and these international the charmat or tank method. The Italiansglera for commercially protective varieties - chardonnay, pinot bianco, call it the Martinotti Method (possiblyreasons”. So how have we ended up pinot grigio, and pinot nero (noir) with another contentious issue). Namedwith this confusion? up to a maximum of 15 per cent in the in honour of Federico Martinotti who, blend. Traditional prosecco has to taste in 1895, invented a steel pressurised Steve Guy, general manager for dry, with floral, apple, pear and citrus and refrigerated vessel known asregulatory advice at the Australian fruit aromas. the “autoclave”. Frenchman EugeneGrape and Wine Authority (AGWA), has Charmat adapted and commercialisedno doubt about what it is. “Prosecco is There are three types of prosecco - the design around 12 years later, whichactually a grape variety, in fact there still, semi sparkling and sparkling. The is why we use the name charmat. “At Dalis more than one variant. Even the latter being 60 per cent of production. Zotto we make a base wine and then doEuropeans recognise it as a grape While all styles of dry, there are three the secondary ferment in a pressurisedvariety. The OIV (the recognised versions, Brut is 0-12 g/l, Extra Dry 12-17 tank, and by using the charmat methodInternational Organisation of Vine g/l and Dry is 17-35 g/l of residual sugar. we are able to preserve the primary fruitand Wine) lists it as a synonym for The last would taste reasonably off-dry characters and delicate floral aromas.glera. When we signed the bi-lateral to an Australian palate. When doing the secondary ferment weagreement with the EU, prosecco wasn’t try and aim to get to the level of residualincluded, as it was and still remains in King Valley in Victoria is our specialistAustralian eyes a grape variety.” The Italians would prefer us not to usethe name. The Prosecco region has along wine growing tradition, but has22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
sugar we want in the finished wine. Sofor the NV we aim for around 14-16g/l making it in the extra dry style andthe vintage is around 8-12 g/l makingit brut,” comments Michael. The 2013vintage Pucino does taste dryer anddisplays lovely fresh citrus, pear andapple. The palate is zesty, lively andrefreshing. Last year the EU tried to play a gameof catch-up and lodged an amendmentto protect prosecco as a GI. The ItalianConsorzio Di Tutela Della DenominazioneDi Origine Controllata Prosecco claimAustralian producers were using theterm prosecco in a misleading way andboasting about its Italian origin. TheWinemakers Federation Australia lodgedan objection and this was upheld throughIP (Intellectual Property) Australia. TheEU initially appealed the results but laterwithdrew its appeal. According to theConsorzio, round table discussions arestill ongoing. While prosecco remainsa problem, it is not the only varietalanomaly with Montepulciano anotherconfusing term being included inregional names as well as a grapevariety. So, in short, prosecco, whilerecognised and protected in Europe, isnot a protected term on the Australiandomestic market. The last word on the subject mightbe left to Michael Dal Zotto. “In 2008I was in Valdobbiadene working withthe experimental Institute of Viticultureas part of a fellowship building myknowledge of prosecco and thatwas the first time I was made awareof the move towards calling proseccoglera. Even while I was there, whenasking producers and vignerons whatthey made prosecco from they wouldreply … prosecco.”
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGGAME ON - BRAZIL BECKONS I FIRST visited Brazil, a country that makes as baianas de acaraje and the signature dish a $2 chopp (beer) in the web of bars nearup half of South America, on a crackpot is moqueca - a spicy seafood stew. the main uni or head for an upscale dinnerweek-long itinerary that included daily flights in the Asa Sul district.ranging from three to five hours. Brazil’s Like Sydney, Recife is an ocean-lovinggeography isn’t an opt-out choice. Twelve city of four million and the 9km long Boa Most tourists come to Curitiba, the “Greenof its major cities were showcased during Viagem beach is the longest urban seafront Capital of Brazil”, to board the Serra Verdethe FIFA World Cup and getting around the in Brazil. It’s best to dive into the upmarket Express train through the Atlantic rainforest.sprawling nation - 825,000 square kilometres bars lining the crowded strip because Polish, Italian and Japanese immigrantslarger than Australia - is easier and more shark attacks are frequent - more than came here to avoid the heat and humidity ofseductive than ever. If you are sorry you double the global average. Recife Antigo the coast. Several open-air markets filled withmissed the final match at Rio’s Maracana (old town) is a safer bet, too, with all-hours food stalls reflect the city’s mixed Europeanstadium, you still have two years up your bars and restaurants tucked into Dutch heritage and serve as feeding stations for thesleeve to explore Brazil’s amazing diversity, and Portuguese colonial buildings. The city’s army of joggers.food and wine scene before the crowds chef’s name to note is Rivandro Franca ofdescend again for the 2016 Olympics. Cozinhando Escondidinho, who specialises With its large German-speaking community, in modern updates of the local cuisine based the state of Rio Grande do Sul has a rich, Beaches, Carnaval, cariocas and samba on yucca, goat and sun-dried meat. upholstered feel. It’s the spiritual home ofgive Rio one of the most fantasy-soaked Brazil’s gauchos - so steak is mandatory. Sobrand images in the world. Even though Hemmed in by three of Brazil’s greatest is the beer, naturally, and the local Corujamany of the hillside favelas have been natural wonders - the Pantanal wetlands, brews are rated among Brazil’s finest amber“pacified”, it’s a smart strategy to stay drops. A few hours from Porto Alegro is thein the posh Zona Sul district, including Industrial strength Vale dos Vinhedos, the most prestigiousworld-famous Copacabana and Ipanema wine-growing region in the country, and thebeaches. Packed with bars and restaurants, mozzie repellent is a Aparados da Serra national park, bisectednotably in Lapa, Rio is also a magnet for by the spectacular Itaimbezhino Canyon.extreme sport enthusiasts. Most tourists non-negotiable for a triptake the cable car to the peaks of Sugarloaf Industrial strength mozzie repellent is aMountain and Corcovado, topped by the to Manaus. non-negotiable for a trip to Manaus. Onceiconic statue of Christ the Redeemer, but nicknamed the gaudiest city in the worldhundreds of rock climbers prefer to get to the Amazon rainforest and the Cerrado for the mad spending sprees of its 19ththe summits the hard way. savannah - Cuiaba is known as the Southern century rubber barons, the no-expense- gate to the Amazon. Its relative isolation spared Teatro Amazonas opera house is a Sao Paolo is the biggest city in South has preserved its Amerindian heritage, in lasting legacy of the days when horses wereAmerica and boasts a similar population to spite of a booming economy which has “watered” with champagne. Located at theAustralia - 22 million. The economic capital studded the cityscape with shopping malls meeting point of two major tributaries of theof Brazil, Sao Paolo is packed with cool bars and office buildings. The local bars all claim Amazon River - the Rio Negro and Solimoesand is the centre of New Brazilian cuisine. they make the best caipirinhas in the country - Manaus is the jump-off spot for eco-toursWealth also buys culture (art exhibitions, but Chopao is the place for Rodizio de up the largest blackwater river in the worldtheatres and concerts) and open space Escaldado - a chicken and egg soup famed by canoe or expensive clipper boat.(dozens of parks). for its ability to soak up alcohol. Book-ended by beaches, including the Brazil’s first capital city, Salvador, is as Like any planned city, Brasilia has attracted picture postcard Ponta Negra and Genibapu,famous for its surrounding bay - Todos os a lot of snide criticism. But, as locals Natal is a reef diver’s paradise. The closestSantos - as Rio. The capital of the state of constantly remind you, Brazil’s capital is the landfall to Europe, the capital of Rio GrandeBahia, the city’s World Heritage-listed old only city built in the 20th century with a World do Norte is enjoying a major tourist boom andtown pulls in the crowds. But South and North Heritage listing. It’s not a knee-jerk defence; is currently building the largest internationalAmericans also flock here to enjoy the longest much of the soaring architecture of the major airport in South America. Officially ranked asstretch of coastline in Brazil, punctuated government buildings is the work of Brazil’s the safest city in Brazil, American tourists areby the Costa do Sauipe, one of the most legendary star architect, Oscar Niemeyer, also much in evidence. Ponta Negra is oneluxurious coastal resorts on the continent. The and resembles the set of a sci-fi movie. Grab long bar and restaurant crawl for people ofvibrant African-influenced cuisine is known all ages to enjoy live music performances from samba to forro.24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA (part one)FRENCH WINE and food writer Andre Adelaide. Like the rest of his Australian and his wife. As one might expect, heL Simon’s visit to Australia took much visit his stay in Adelaide was meticulously was mightily impressed with the cottage’splanning. Victor Gibson, head of the planned well in advance. Gibson, the history, and described appreciatively whatWine and Food Society of Victoria and main organiser, was kept busy trying to he saw, such as old four-poster beds withSimon’s major host, made the point that, meet the requests of winemakers and their accompanying mosquito nets, andas Adelaide was easily the largest wine others in the industry while at the same the “dark and draughty larder” where foodproducing area in Australia “you would time ensuring that the octogenarian had was kept in the days before refrigeration.need to allow considerable time here”. At sufficient rest. Winemakers, of course, He also visited the modern Penfold’sthis time (1963-64) there was no Wine and were anxious to hear Simon’s opinion of winery, and exclaimed at the size of aFood Society in South Australia but, as their product. Gibson wrote begging letters vat holding 10,774 gallons (about 49,000Gibson wrote in a letter to Simon, “there seeking assistance “in the selection of litres), named after the blind Americanare many good friends there”. And although writer, Helen Keller. (Keller had visitedSA had only one Society member, he was a You need not have a great the winery in 1948 and apparently, havingmost influential one – Lloyd Dumas, head of been told the vat’s height, felt her waythe morning daily, The Advertiser. deal, but a glass of wine around its “vast girth” and estimated its volume amazingly accurately.) The best Simon, with Gibson and his wife, Madge, will make you feel better, naming rights which Penfold Hyland couldarrived in Adelaide on January 24,1964. offer to Simon was a neighbouring vat ofNext morning’s Advertiser published an sleep better and wake up 10,300 gallons (about 47,000 litres). Thearticle, prominently positioned on page Keller vat may be seen today at Penfold’sthree, and provocatively titled Licensing better than if you had filled Magill Estate, but I have so far been unableLaws In SA ‘Ridiculous’. The unnamed to discover the fate of Simon’s.reporter pointed out that Simon had written your stomach with beer,50 books and pamphlets on food and wine, The party then traveled to the nearbyimplying that he should know what he’s water or tea. winery of Stonyfell. It had been brought totalking about. As Simon sipped a glass of Simon’s attention that only a few years agosherry in his room at the South Australian some outstanding Australian wines” for the road to Stonyfell ran through vineyards,Hotel, his reaction to hearing that hotels in the various functions to which Simon was but now the vines were being replacedSA closed at 6pm was to look incredulous invited. For instance, back in November by houses. Henry Martin was the host.and exclaim “surely not”. He believed that Gibson wrote to Yalumba, Stonyfell, “The weather was warm and the meal wasthere should be no time limit on the serving Penfold’s and Thomas Hardy and Sons cold”, observed a grateful Simon, as heof wine with food. “You can’t expect to eat seeking sherries, dry whites, dry reds and tucked into “melon, langouste, cheese,without something wet to help it along. Food dessert wines for two functions. He was fruit”, washed down with two 1962 Rhineis never so easily and well digested as with also anxious to know what awards the wines rieslings, one Penfold’s and the otherwine”. He continued: “You need not have had received. Stonyfell; a 1962 Penfold Minchinburya great deal, but a glass of wine will make Traminer (“a much more fruity wine”), thenyou feel better, sleep better and wake up Simon’s visit to SA concentrated on an unidentified red from Coonawarra,better than if you had filled your stomach the Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and followed by the indulgently-named Stonyfellwith beer, water or tea. (SA finally abolished the Barossa. On January 25, his first ‘Montagne de Pierre’ champagne. Simonthe “six o’clock swill” in September 1967, full day in the state, he visited Magill somehow managed to endure the weatherand was the last Australian state to do so. and the 120-years-old Penfold’s Grange – it was well over the century (38C) for mostOne wonders whether Simon’s strongly- Cottage, where he was welcomed by of his time in SA. On being served, cold, aexpressed opinions a few years earlier Jeffrey Penfold Hyland, great grandson of tawny port-style wine (Stonyfell Old Lodge)helped to hasten the abolition.) Penfold’s founder, Dr Christopher Penfold, made from grenache, he remarked with some surprise: “I quite liked it”. Simon spent more than a week in
BACK-TO-BACK MICHAEL COOPERSEASONAL NEW WINERIES are under construction,SUCCESSDRIVES land values and vineyard profits are up,GROWING and Mother Nature has delivered two kindOPTIMISM vintages in a row. No wonder winegrowers in Hawke’s Bay, the country’s second-In the region’s most ambitious largest wine region - which promotes itselfmarketing program yet, 17 Hawke’s as “New Zealand’s leading producer of redBay winegrowers have joined forces wines” - are in an upbeat mood.to promote their wines in China. As you’d expect of a long-established26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014 wine region with roots in the nineteenth century, over the past decade the Hawke’s Bay industry has grown gradually, rather than at the frantic pace seen further south. Since 2004, the region’s total area of bearing vineyards has expanded from 3873ha to 4816ha - a steady, 25 per cent increase during a period when the national vineyard almost doubled. The region is the home of 77 wine producers and many wineries headquartered in Auckland or the South Island also feature a Hawke’s Bay merlot, syrah or chardonnay in their range. After three years of negative returns - reflecting the international recession, a temporary oversupply of NZ wine and unusually wet growing seasons in 2011 and 2012 - profitability in the vineyards was restored in 2013. A notably warm, dry summer and settled autumn gave well- ripened, richly flavoured grapes; yields climbed by 20 per cent over the previous
year; and growing export demand drove Wine Company, based in the former Ricard NZ grow pinot gris for its Churchprices higher for all varieties, especially Corbans winery at Pandora, in Napier. At Road brand on river terraces 300m abovechardonnay, now coming back into vogue. the leased winery, capable of handling sea level, where the low night temperatures 10,000 tonnes of grapes, McDonald plans “help delay ripening and allow us to Land prices are rising, too, as the to produce both large volume and small achieve a level of aromatics in pinot grisavailability of blocks ideal for quality red- batch wines. that we do not see from lower altitudewine production declines. After dropping vineyards closer to the coast”.to $NZ150,000 per hectare a few years Sauvignon blanc dominates NZ’sago, the value of highly sought-after, ultra output - but not Hawke’s Bay’s. Merlot China beckons. In the region’s mostfree-draining land in the Gimblett Gravels and chardonnay together account for ambitious marketing program yet, 17has bounced back to its former peak of well over 40 per cent of the plantings, Hawke’s Bay winegrowers have joined$NZ200,000 per hectare. followed by sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, forces to promote their wines in China, syrah, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon backed by $NZ500,000 from the Agricultural Confidence is also reflected in the decision and malbec. There are also significant and Marketing Research and Developmentby Delegat’s/Oyster Bay to build a new plantings of cabernet franc, viognier Trust. Fongyee Walker, a wine consultantwinery on the edge of Hastings, capable and gewurztraminer. based in China, has been hired to hostof crushing 10,000 tonnes of grapes educational events, tastings and social(equivalent to 700,000 cases of wine). Villa Fiano is the latest arrival. Bushhawk media campaigns.Maria, which in 2012 purchased Te Awa, in Vineyard Bella’s Block Hawke’s Bay Fianothe Gimblett Gravels, from American multi- 2013 is the country’s first bottling of a However, in an unexpected setback formillionaire Julian Robertson, also recently variety grown traditionally in the Campania Hawke’s Bay’s red wine producers, eagerannounced plans to construct a new winery region of southern Italy. Aromatic and full- to ride on the coat tails of Bordeaux, Newalongside the existing building at Te Awa, bodied, with a strong surge of refreshingly Zealand’s wine exports to China slippedwhere the first vintage flowed in 1994. crisp, vigorous, citrusy flavours and a long from $NZ31 million to $NZ22 million in finish, it’s full of personality and potential. the year to February 2014. One likely Villa Maria, which also owns two other cause is the austerity drive by PresidentHawke’s Bay wineries, Vidal and Esk Valley, “Aromatic” white wines are more often Xi Jinping, who has set out to slashhas 400ha of vineyards within 10km of the associated with cooler, southern regions spending by government officials onsite of the new winery. “It makes sense, but recent, rapid vineyard expansion in entertaining and gifts.from a quality and environmental point of the inland, upland district known both asview, to process here, rather than truck the Crownthorpe (a local hamlet) and Matapiro Above: Mission, established by Marist missionariesgrapes up to Auckland,” says owner Sir (a sheep station), has added an important in 1851, produced its first commercial wines in theGeorge Fistonich. new string to Hawke’s Bay’s bow. 1890s and today ranks among the largest wineries in Hawke’s Bay. Rod McDonald, formerly winemaker at Delegat’s/Oyster Bay says its chardonnayVidal, recently founded a new contract is “more aromatic, fresher and crisper” HAWKES BAY tasting STARTS PAGE 102.winemaking business, The Hawke’s Bay there than down on the plains. Pernod November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 27
‘Lottery’ Pay-Off forPadthaway It’s been 50 years since the first vines were planted in Padthaway on the South Australian Limestone Coast.
GRETEL SNEATH water”) and it’s not surprising that the vines,” he said. “Chardonnay had taken big wine corporates caught wind of the the country by storm at this stage andA RANGE of factors can lead to the area’s potential, planting the first grapes we saw in Lindemans Padthaway theestablishment of a wine region, and in the district in 1964. “It was serious opportunity to develop large areas ofscientific evidence often produces investment; lots of research, equipment, chardonnay in those early years. It wasgreater odds in the viticulture lottery. innovation and knowledge was invested already the largest single vineyard inWhile Padthaway farmers had known it in Padthaway,” Bell says. Australia and we believe the southernfor generations, it was the CSIRO that hemisphere, and many trophies camefirst officially documented the potential Seppelt was the first to arrive, planting out of the early 1980s for Lindemansof the district - a report produced in the classic varieties shiraz, cabernet Padthaway Chardonnay. It also went in as1944 described the landscape about sauvignon and Rhine riesling at 20ha blending material for bulk wines; Bin 6550km north-west of Naracoorte as a per year on its 180ha property. The first was comprised partly of Padthaway fruit“first class” site for garden soils. The shiraz was picked in 1968, and vineyard and partly of Riverland fruit, and was theocean may be an hour’s drive away, but director Karl Seppelt declared: “This biggest selling white wine in the world.”the unique terroir of brown sandy loam is some of the best we’ve made…theover red-brown clay over limestone can climate is warmer than Coonawarra and The growing conditions of manybe traced back millions of years to when the style of wine is softer. I’ll be very Padthaway vineyards were maximisedthe Naracoorte Range was an ancient surprised if this is not a major wine area with a unique T-Trellis that splits thecoastal dune. in a few years”. canopy crossways, using a wire on either side of the post. The system enables “It’s the highest point between here and In 1968, Thomas Hardy became the good airflow through the canopy andAntarctica, and some days when you district’s second major player and that allows sunshine to penetrate a more evenstand there in a breeze during winter, it same year Lindemans planted the first fruit zone without over-exposure, leadingfeels like it,” says winemaker Sue Bell, vineyards north of the Keppoch Hall. to greater quality and consistency. Thewho spent nine years at Padthaway Max Arney, who was the Lindemans switch to machine pruning led to anwinery Stonehaven. “And I think the fact Padthaway vineyard manager from 1981- increase in vine height, while changes inthat it’s so flat between here and the coast 84, says the site was chosen for its red watering methods from flood irrigation tomeans that we still get coastal fogs here, brown Terra Rossa soil over limestone. traveling and later drip irrigators furtherso it’s actually still a maritime climate.” boosted fruit quality, with water usage “Some of the soils were pretty shallow dropping from around 5-6 megalitres per Combine these factors with a and the ripping didn’t always get through hectare to 1-2ML/ha.sustainable water source (Padthaway is that calcrete layer of limestone, so wethe Potawurutj Aboriginal word for “good actually ended up v-furrowing the rows While Padthaway chardonnay is still to put most of the topsoil under the
Visitors praise the quality and value ofwidely considered the flagship due to vigneron whose family settled in the the wines, butits strong varietal definition, the ’90s Padthaway district in 1938. The Wardspassion for shiraz and cabernet saw began converting paddocks to vineyards the growersgrafting became a large focus. That in 1997 and now sell seven differentsame decade, there were also significant varieties under contract. “It was an believe thatchanges in ownership, with the larger opportunistic time in the 1990s whencompanies stepping aside to make way a lot of others were getting into the the region’sfor local farmers. vineyard business, and the friendly nature of the Padthaway community has biggest “From a corporates perspective, you meant that there have been some reallycan understand the reason why they strong support networks,” he says. strength ismoved on; there were some very largecorporate holdings in Padthaway, and Former Padthaway Estate winemaker, consistency.they needed to spread that risk across Pam Dunsford, reflects on the changingAustralia, which presented some great of the guard: “The corporates do bring of the wines, but the growers believeopportunities for local people,” says a strength of technical knowledge and a that the region’s biggest strength isTreasury Wine Estates manager David strength in marketing, and just a higher consistency. “It’s year in year out,Edwards. Padthaway grapes that were level of business guidance that helps producing really good quality fruit - youonce used to bolster wine definition small areas - there’s no doubt about that - don’t get a huge amount of vintagewithout recognition are now being but the individuals can show the courage variation, so as a wine producer it makesrewarded with their own label, and that they may not be able to show if they it a whole lot easier,” says Longbottom.Padthaway Grape Growers Association were working for a corporate,” she says.president Andrew Bryson is among And although it’s already been 50those leading the charge. “We’re fifth- Padthaway Estate is the home of the years, everyone agrees that it’s just thegeneration farmers and have about famed Eliza Sparkling range crafted beginning in terms of potential.200ha of vineyards, and while we sell with a classic French Champagne Coqa little bit off to the corporates, the press, and one of only two cellar doors Left: Padthaway Homestead in Autumn.majority of the grapes go into our own in the district. Henry’s Drive Vignerons Opposite page:labels Morambro Creek, Jip Jip Rocks, also welcomes visitors, and is proud of Padthaway HomesteadMount Monster and the limited release its “hidden gem” status.shiraz cabernet blend The Bryson,” heexplains. “Probably about 50 per cent “For us it was all about the commitmentof our wine is exported and in the last to the region; our wine is made off-sitefew years we’ve been concentrating so I guess we needed a home for ourdomestically on the east coast of wine brand and somewhere that weAustralia and over in WA.” could entertain our guests whether they be Australian or international,” says Sam Ward is another farmer turned proprietor Kim Longbottom. Visitors praise the quality and value
REGIONALSNAPSHOTThe Padthaway wine region wasgazetted for GIC status on September29, 1999. It is 62km long and 8kmwide, with the Riddoch Highwayrunning through the middle. Morethan 4000ha is planted, and shirazand cabernet account for half of that.Chardonnay is another dominantvariety, with smaller successfulplantings of riesling, merlot,sauvignon blanc, traminer, pinot noir,viognier, pinot gris and sangiovese.
32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
IN A LEAGUEOF THEIROWN THE NORTH EAST’S RANGE OF WINE STYLES AND CLIMATIC CONDITIONS ARE UNMATCHED IN AUSTRALIA.MICHAEL HINCE ALPINE VALLEYS Like its near neighbour the King Valley, the Alpine Valleys region is tobacco-growingDOING justice to North East Victoria in Marsh typifies the growing breed of country, home to post WWII entrepreneurialthese few words is like trying to pass a talented, innovative winemakers who are Italian settlers who subsequently createdcamel through the eye of a needle. Each helping put the as yet largely undiscovered an eclectic Mediterranean-influenced wineof its five GIs - Rutherglen, Glenrowan, Alpine Valleys on the map. The Alpine and food culture.Beechworth, King Valley and the Alpine Valleys GI, some of whose vineyardsValleys - warrants a separate article, let date back to the mid-19th century, covers Unlike the bustling, effusive Kingalone many of the standout wineries in about 500ha and incorporates the Ovens, Valley (of La dolce vita and Proseccosuch an alluringly attractive, diverse and Kiewa, Buckland and Happy Valleys. Road fame) it’s not as yet a recognisedcompelling region. Of its 17 wineries, 12 have cellar doors wine destination in that it lacks a critical and over 30 grape varieties are grown in mass of cellar doors and highly visible For every producer I mention there are diverse micro-climates. As is the case in brands. But, therein lies its attraction - itat least three or four that deserve equal the North East generally, shiraz excels, awaits and rewards discovery. Its cellarbilling; likewise their wines, so to those and its pinot noir and chardonnay fruit is doors are home to some exceptionalwhose names are omitted, I apologise. renowned for top quality sparkling wines. cool-climate wines, while its hospitality There’s some merlot grown at higher is on a par with that of the King Valley “Nowhere else in Australia could you altitudes and plantings of Italian varietals and North East Victoria generally. Ithave so many different climates and such as sangiovese, barbera, marzemino, was about the time when the popularstyles of wines made within a one-hour nebbiolo and teroldego are on the rise. Wynns Oven Valley Burgundy reigneddrive of each other, everything from Emerging varietals, well suited to the supreme in the mid to late 1980s thatfortifieds and big reds to refined, cool- region’s cool nights, include prosecco, the enterprising Kel Boynton establishedclimate sparkling and everything in friulano and tempranillo.between,” says the talented Jo Marsh of Opposite: LHS Warren Proft (Chrismont Winemaker) RHSthe budding Billy Button Wines. Arnie Pizzini (Chrismont Director). November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 33
GET ON YOUR BIKE PRONTO AND DISCOVER AND IMMERSEYOURSELF IN THE NORTH EAST’S MYRIAD OF CELLAR-DOOR-ONLY WINES AND MATCH THEM WITH THE LOCAL GAME,PRODUCE, FRUIT AND CHEESES.Boynton’s Feathertop at Porepunkah, KING VALLEY BEECHWORTHand in so doing pioneered the viticulturaland vinicultural benchmarks for the Very much a destination GI, the King People don’t throng to Beechworthregion. He also mentored many a Valley - populated by a host of wineries en-masse as they do to the King Valley.fledging winemaker. What David Morris and cellar doors bookended by Brown In theatrical terms it’s much more dressis to Rutherglen, Ross Brown is to Milawa Brothers, Wood Park and Sam Miranda in circle and its wines, as exemplified byand Fred Pizzini is to the King Valley, and around Milawa at one end, and by Dal Giaconda’s Chardonnay, are perceivedBoynton is to The Alpine Valleys. Why Zotto, Pizzini and Chrismont at Whitfield to be at the premium end of the market.Porepunkah? Because, says Boynton at the other - is the North East’s Little Italy.“it has the closest fit climatically On the opposite hill abutting Giacondato Bordeaux/Burgundy, Rioja, Tuscany Chrismont and its owners, Arnie and Jo nestles Marc Scalzo’s tiny Piano Piano.and Piedmonte”. Pizzini, typify the King Valley. Its Sophie’s Block Chardonnay and Oliver’s Blend Merlot Cabernet stand out. With 20 varieties planted, Boynton Riesling and its La Zona label barbera,has multiple house-wines, aside from both released in 1996, were its two I think tempranillo and nebbiolothe stalwarts of shiraz and riesling - foundation varietals and its riesling, La have a future in Beechworth generally,“sangiovese, tempranillo, savagnin, Zona Prosecco and La Zona Pinot Grigio especially the former, if Mark Walpolevermentino and friulano are very popular”. are its best sellers. Chrismont’s Arnaldo at Fighting Gully Road has anything Sangiovese Cabernet is “a great example to do with it. Then there’s Sorenburg, A decade later Gapstead - the first winery of a modern King Valley style based on distinguished by its intriguing and under-in Australia to commercially produce the the traditional Super Tuscan blend of rated 2013 gamay.beguiling saperavi and petit manseng sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon”.- set up shop. Chief winemaker Shayne In 2015 Chrismont’s Cheshunt vineyard Also on the rise is Adrian Rodda,Cunningham makes excellent wines at estate is set to build an emblematic, state- his 2012 Smiths Vineyard Beechworthaffordable prices at what he describes as of-the-art wine, food and events complex. Chardonnay is making waves and younga “big-little winery, with the attributes of a winemakers such as Daniel Balzer andboutique winery but a capacity to producequality from a diverse varietal range”. Then there’s Eleana Anderson ofMayford Wines at Porepunkah, whose“micro-vinification” has produced winnerslike her outstanding 2010 tempranillo.Her 2006 tempranillo won Best Wine inShow at the 2008 Australian AlternativeVarieties Wine Show. She intends makinga Bordeaux blend in the future. Other off the beaten track gems includeFrank and Tiziana Ivone’s EaglerangeEstate at Ovens in the Happy Valley,Ringer Reef at Porepunkah and Ceccantiin the Kiewa Valley.34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
Peter Graham are making Beechworth including its magnificent muscats. 2013 Reserve Shiraz is a good exampletheir home. Finally, Paul Dahlenburg’s (of Aside from the Rutherglen perennials - “it’s modern, clean, vibrant andBaileys fame) Eldorado Road at Eldorado punchy”. Says Sutherland-Smith:makes a very North East Victorian style like All Saints, RL Buller & Sons, “Warrabilla has the best style definitionred blend called Quasimodo Shiraz Durif Campbells, Chambers Rosewood, of any red wine in Australia”. If the 2013Nero d’Avola in addition to a ripper 2010 Lake Moodemere, the Jones Winery, Reserve Shiraz is anything to go by, whoOld Vine Shiraz called Perse’v’erance. Morris, Mt Prior, Pfeiffer Wines and am I to argue with him? Rutherglen Estates, this trio fires myRUTHERGLEN & vinous imagination - the adventurous, There’s more to Damien Cofield atGLENROWAN ebullient Andrew Sutherland-Smith’s Cofields than sparkling shiraz, his 2012 Warrabilla; the energetic, entrepreneurial Minimal Footprint Malbec reeks of quality It’s manifestly unfair, for want of space, sparkling red specialist Damien Cofield as does his intense, velvety 2012 Durif.to have to bracket these historic and at Cofields and the creative Rowlybeguiling GIs that are home to some top Milhinch at Scion. At Scion, Milhinch’s forte is his attractivequality wines. 2012 Rose Muscat - and his 2012 After Warrabilla makes rich, balanced, Dark semi-sweet, lightly fortified durif is Both remain undiscovered by the deeply flavoured, definitive reds with equally as appealing as a dessert wineyounger generations, especially freshness and structure that result in with a difference.Rutherglen’s iconic liqueur fortifieds, a satisfying mouth-feel. Sutherland- Smith’s textural 16-plus per cent alc/vol Finally comes Glenrowan, noted for the inherent fruit sweetness in many of its reds. Its stars include the canny, indefatigable Paul Dahlenburg at the now fully certified organic Baileys. Also Tim and Lisbeth Long’s Silent Range Estate has crafted some consistently fine merlot, shiraz and sparkling shiraz of late. If all this isn’t enough, then get on your bike pronto and discover and immerse yourself in the North East’s myriad of cellar-door-only wines and match them with the local game, produce, fruit and cheeses while you unwind in a beautiful pristine environment. Enough said. Top: Bonyton Feathertop Vineyards. Left: Chrismont Pinot Gris 2012. Right: Chrismont Riesling 2012. Opposite page: Shayne Cunningham & Michael Cope-Willams of Gapstead Wines. North east victoria tasting STARTS PAGE 104.
PassionatePinotabout Pinot is a relative late comer to Australian and New Zealand vineyards, but it is taking giant steps to catch up to the more established grapes.36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
JENI PORT Thin-skinned, pinot naturally produces unlike Burgundy, sun is not a problem. less colour and fewer tannins in such Nor is colour in the finished wines“PINOT NOIR is more like a motion a cold, wet climate, which is where due to all that sun and accompanyingpicture than a work of art.” winemaking becomes so important. ripeness. However, high heat can result Balancing fruit and acidity (and in high alcohol levels touching 14.5 per I wish I could say that such an sometimes fermenting on skins for extra cent. Is that too high? Yes, if it leads toevocative account of the restless, colour and tannin) is the key. an unbalanced wine.peripatetic nature of the pinot grape wasall my own work, but alas, no. Tasting descriptors? In cool years - What can be a real problem is summer by far, the most common - look for red bushfires and smoke taint. Sadly, there’s It comes from Australian Master of fruits: cherries, strawberries, plums, little to stop Australian bushfires.Wine, Toni Patterson, and it deserves to raspberries and redcurrant. In warmerbe committed to memory by every lover years and sites, black fruits edge in. Tasting descriptors? In cool years,of the grape. Pinot noir does not stand Look, too, to a savoury component that expect red berries, fresh herbs, rhubarb,still. It moves, adapts and intrigues. can often delight. pepper and dusty beetroot overtones; inIt’s the shape shifter of the wine world; warmer years black fruits and aniseed.morphing to match the area where it is Tradition does stand for something ingrown and the person who crafts it into Burgundy but don’t over-estimate its role. There is no strong pinot noir traditionwine. And sensitive grape that it is, it “When I arrived in 1982, I simply did what here so styles can tend from the full-always tells a story. my father did and it actually wasn’t so bodied to the more medium-bodied and bad,” said Etienne Grivot of Domaine Jean finer in structure. Oak handling can be In Burgundy, its home, pinot tells a Grivot at last year’s Mornington Peninsula obvious sometimes, but it’s getting better.most particular story. International Pinot Noir Celebration. “But it’s good to try things when you are young After a hearty discussion on clones, It starts in the Jurassic era, 137 to and possessed.” Aussie winemakers are now obsessing195 million years ago when the area in over doing more in the vineyard andeastern France was covered by sea, In Australia, quality pinot noir only less in the winery. “Winemaking wasthen dried out leaving layers of limestone became a reality with the development with no additions except SO2,” declared300m high that decomposed into clay of cool-climate viticulture in the 1980s. Bannockburn Vineyards winemakersoils. The Cote d’Or escarpment, home Southern Victorian wine regions and Glover about his 2011 Serre pinot noir.to the most prized vineyards, is made Tasmania are now considered among “So, no acid added, no enzymes and noup of those soils. the most suited to the grape. yeast.” Expect more of the same from Australian winemakers. Rain? The Cote d’Or is generally cool and Note the role of a strong maritimevery wet, but remember in recent times influence there. Water moderates land Like Australia, New Zealand is a late2002, 2003 and 2005 were exceptionally temperatures and that’s a good thing on starter with pinot noir. There has beendry. Hail? It’s always on the cards. In 2013 a warm continent. plenty of trial and error. Plenty of newhailstorms wiped out as much as 60 per areas to search out. Focus has settledcent of the crop. This year, they returned Like the Burgundians, many producers on four regions in particular: Wairarapadevastating vineyards in the south. have looked to limestone soils. But on the North Island and Marlborough, November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 37
Aussie winemakers are now Canterbury and Central Otago on theobsessing over doing more in the South Island.vineyard and less in the winery Each region provides enough contrast in style to make pinot noir one of the country’s most exciting grape varieties. All boast cool growing conditions and three have the influence of the sea directing the winds and weather. Central Otago is the exception. It has an inland or “continental” climate and is the most southerly wine region in the world. It’s also one of the driest wine regions in the country and despite its alpine mountains and ridges, the hottest in summer. When ripening grapes can be a problem, New Zealand makers are allowed to chaptalise or add sugar during winemaking to raise alcohol levels. Tasting descriptors? Expect red and, occasionally, black fruits to the fore in many Kiwi pinots along with florals, herbs and spices. “Racy” and “sleek” often feature in tasting notes. Wild thyme planted by gold miners throughout Central Otago during its halcyon gold days is believed to give a distinct herbal influence to the grape. In the Wairarapa around Martinborough pinot is often at its richest and most dense and full bodied. Black Doris plum is another distinctly Kiwi pinot descriptor. New Zealand can and does walk a fine line between viticulture and climate. “The 2010 vintage was the second coolest summer on record for us, with intense disease pressure,” said American, Marquis Sauvage, owner of Burn Cottage in Central Otago. “We ended up with a more classic feel, quite restrained. But 2011 was our most challenging. We simply ran out of season.” As I said, pinot lends itself to a story wherever it is planted.38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
A QUIET ACHIEVERMAKES HIS MARKAT 92 YEARS OF AGE, COLIN GRAMP DAN TRAUCKICAN LOOK BACK ON A LIFETIME OFMAJOR CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE OVER the last century the Australian wineAUSTRALIAN WINE INDUSTRY. industry has had a handful of superstars who have achieved amazing things in40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014 their time. These individuals fall into two categories - those who did so with a great degree of flair and showmanship such as Wolf Blass, Murray Tyrell, Len Evans et al, and those quiet achievers who achieved amazing things by just getting on with the job modestly. Men like Max Schubert, Maurice O’Shea, Peter Lehmann, Jim Irvine and Colin Gramp. Gramp was born into one of the most respected families in the Australian wine industry. His great grandfather, Johann, migrated to South Australia in 1837 and settled in the Barossa Valley. The vineyard he planted was the starting point for G Gramp & Sons-Orlando Wines. Despite
having been weaned on wine by his wine shows, while also persuading Not only wasfather, Hugo, Gramp’s real interest in many others to follow Gramps’ lead. It Gramp a great winewine took hold at the end of his stint as revolutionised the white wine industry industry innovator,an RAAF Coastal Command tail gunner in and it is as a direct result of this that we he is also one ofSunderland flying boats during World War enjoy crisp, vibrant, young white wines the Barons of theII. Gramp and two friends came home via in Australia today. Over time the use of Barossa, as wella three-month sojourn in California’s Napa temperature control pioneered by Gramp as being a veryValley. There, thanks to prohibition (1920- made its way into red wine making as generous man.1933), he saw a reborn wine industry with well, so that today almost all wine is madeall new equipment and modern methods. in a temperature controlled environment. black tie dinner was held to raise funds forReturning home he realised that the the Barossa Rotary Club. The attendeesAustralian wine industry, which at the time I tasted the 1953 Orlando Barossa were a “Who’s Who” of the Barossa,was devoted to making fortified wines, had Riesling in 1997 at a Riesling Masterclass including John Vickery, Bob McLean,a lot of catching up to do. In 1947 26-year- conducted by John Vickery at the Richmond Peter Lehmann and Stephen Henschke.old Gramp produced his first dry red table Grove winery and it was still very much alive All of the wines, other than the welcomingwine - Orlando Special Reserve Claret - a and vibrant at 44 years old. I would venture glass of champagne, were donated byshiraz cabernet blend. to suggest that it would still have been alive Gramp. The youngest of these wines was and kicking today at 61. a 1970 Orlando Crouchen Muscadelle & Gramp was technical director of G Semillon, all the reds bar one were fromGramp & Sons from 1947 to 1970 (when In 1954 Colin went to Germany to study the 1950s, including a Bordeaux and athe company was sold to Reckitt and fermentation techniques and realised that Burgundy, and the night finished with twoColman) and was widely regarded as the tanks he had fitted at Orlando could 1945 Vintage ports. Both the Orlando 1959one of the pioneers of the contemporary also be used to make sparkling wine. The Barossa Rhine Riesling (at 36 years old)Australian wine scene by introducing result of this trip was Barossa Pearl, which and the Orlando 1954 Barossa Cabernetsuch innovations as controlled pressure was due to be launched for the Melbourne (at 41 years old) were sensational. It wasfermentation. One aspect of winemaking Olympics in 1956. Unfortunately, it was an extraordinary night thanks to Gramp’swhich particularly interested Gramp was delayed due to cork problems and generosity.refrigeration and controlled fermentation instead was launched on Guy Fawkestechnology. In 1952 Orlando became Day of that year. Within a short space of In his time Gramp was a pioneer withthe first winery in Australia to install time of its launch, Barossa Pearl became great vision who made a very significantcontrolled fermentation compressors to “the people’s wine” and introduced many contribution to the Australian wine industryhandle the cooling and refrigeration of newcomers to wine drinking. Another and today, aged 92, he is an astute andwine. Then Orlando installed more tanks innovation that he introduced in 1962 was charming gentleman with a great sensewhich used pressure and cold in the that he organised for some of Orlando’s of humour.fermentation process. The fermentation wines to be shipped to the UK in 44 gallonof riesling in a closed tank retained a stainless steel drums and be bottled over Opposite: Colin Gramp.lot of the flavours that were lost during there. The drums came back to Australiathe open fermentation process and the full of McKinleys Scotch, which Orlandomaturation of the wine in oak barrels. bottled here.The result was the 1953 Orlando BarossaRiesling which turned white wine making Not only was Gramp a great wine industryon its head. Straight away, this fresh, innovator, he is also one of the Barons of thecrisp, aromatic wine won Best Wine Barossa, as well as being a very generousat both the Sydney and Melbourne man. A great example of his generosity occurred in June 1995 when at Gramps House, Rowland Flat, a lavish six-course
adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINS Every so often an ethnic restaurant that award-winning Parwana restaurant, an pine mushrooms, wild snow peas and radishhas hit pay dirt out in the distant suburbs unassuming family-run place that became so flowers to local venison, native bush foodssets out to bring its winning formula to the popular for its authentic regional Kabul-style and locally made cheeses.centre of the city, often driven by a second cooking that it had to expand recently, rathergeneration who want to add a new twist to like its customers’ waistlines. The wine list stretches well beyondwhat their parents have achieved. South Australia and there’s the adjacent Now three daughters of the family have Sidewood cellar door and bar for further Two notable examples recently in Adelaide taken the winning formula, tweaked it exploration Open lunch and dinnerhave stemmed from the Nghi Ngan Quan considerably, and opened what has Thursday-Sunday. 15 Onkaparinga ValleyVietnamese restaurant in the northern suburb become a highly popular lunchtime Rd, Verdun; phone (08) 8388 7777.of Ferryden Park and Parwana Afghan destination in Adelaide’s now thrivingrestaurant in the inner western suburbs. East End. It’s little more than a colourfully Fortunately, some favourite places in decorated hole in the wall, with some inside Adelaide never change apart from upgrading The reputation of NNQ, even though it seating and more outside. The menu has their menus regularly, and one of those is theis a barn of a place with big TV screens been honed down to just a few lunchtime Lion Hotel restaurant, which remains in theand functional furniture, was such that it favourites such as the steamed mantu meticulous charge of owners Tim Gregg andattracted a clientele from across Adelaide, dumplings topped with lamb mince, and Andrew Svencis.from winemakers and lawyers to Vietnamese various kebabs, curries and bolani - flatfamily groups. For many, it provided the best bread with fillings such as leek and feta. This was one of the first suburban hotels inVietnamese food in the city. Adelaide to take its restaurant upmarket and Like the mother restaurant, PKD isn’t it has set a high standard that’s won it many The secret lay in owner-chef Huong Ngo’s licensed, but the new East End Cellars and awards. Well insulated from the pub hubbub,cooking and now her daughter Jennifer Mothervine across the lane are excellent what once seemed a quite radical designLuong has taken mum’s cooking into wine bars only metres away that can has mellowed as it’s gained the patina of athe heart of Adelaide’s most competitive provide a glass of wine before or after. well-used restaurant.restaurant strip, Gouger St, in what once Lunch daily. 7 Ebenezer Place, Adelaide;was the French restaurant La Guillotine - now phone (08) 7225 8586. The large open kitchen produces arenamed Little NNQ. smallish menu that changes regularly, with More change, this time out of town at the the most recent menu offering dishes such Not surprisingly the place is now packed Adelaide Hills village of Verdun where the as pig jowl with morcilla, pear and fennel once-renowned Maximilian’s restaurant has (anyone who thinks pinot noir goes bestand no one seems to care that, apart from a been given a new lease on life. It’s a tricky with duck should try it against this dish),few decorative touches, nothing much has business taking on a decades-old restaurant baby octopus with Jerusalem artichokeschanged from the now rather dated look of that once thrived then grew tired and failed, and squid consomme, or a milk-fed lambthe previous restaurants that have occupied so great credit goes to Maximillian’s new pot-au-feu in a dark sherry broth.this space. It’s not really so “little” either, with owners for their complete transformation ofa total seating of over 100 on two levels. this 1850s farmhouse and everything it offers. Steaks are particularly well treated here, with Friday lunch specials including offerings Top dishes include the duck and banana Just about all that remains of old are the such as a chargrilled 450g Coorong Angusblossom salad, slow-cooked beef stew sweeping views over the lake and vineyard, rib eye and special reds by the glass. Lunchand sticky rice with sausage and pork which anyone would want to keep. The Sunday-Friday; dinner Monday-Saturday.floss, while at lunchtime there’s a traditional 70s-style garlic bread, snails bourguignon Corner Melbourne and Jerningham streets,pho soup and a terrific range of vermicelli and chicken livers Diane that once graced North Adelaide; phone (08) 8367 0222.salads. Unusually for this style of restaurant these tables have given way to local tommythe wine list is particularly good. Lunch and ruffs with celeriac remoulade, slow braised Left: Little NNQ wine selection. Right: Lion Hotel interior.dinner Wednesday-Monday. 125 Gouger St, lamb shoulder with parsnip and preservedAdelaide; phone (08) 8211 8558. lemon, and confit duck with baby beets. A Coorong Angas chateaubriand for two, On the other side of the CBD, Parwana served with cavolo nero and kipfler potatoes,Kutchi Deli is an inner-city offshoot of the is a sentimental nod to the past. Head chef Jamie Laing is setting out to add substantially to the Adelaide Hills reputation as a food destination, saying it’s a personal passion of his and a philosophy of Maximilian’s to embrace the region. He says it’s a pleasure having a kitchen set among one of the richest food bowls in Australia where he can source produce as diverse as
melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN It seems restaurants are opening all the Larger dishes, designed to share may when you’re next in Melbourne. 61 Flinderstime in Melbourne. There are whispers of include steamed whole flounder with Lane, Melbourne; phone (03) 8663 0500.a saturated market but even experienced young ginger and black beans and theswitched-on operators are investing lots of stunning masterstock free range chicken If you haven’t heard the name Ryanmoney in fancy fit outs and comprehensive with bamboo salad and nam prik. The Flaherty, chances are you could soon.menus, which keeps affirming that we’re a Korean-style crispy pork hock with apple Flaherty is a Melbourne chef who is ahungry and curious lot here down south. kim chi and pancakes offers a robust familiar name around the city, but with balance of sweetness and heat, and the the opening of his first solo venture, Mr Lucy Liu’s opened in July in the space high energy continues with young, happy Jennings in Richmond, he’s gettingpreviously occupied by Philippe Mouchel’s service and mood that makes it a place more than just the foodies of town talking.PM24 on Russell St. Taken on by chef that we can happily envisage being here in Flaherty has gone against-trend here.Michael Lambie and his business partners years to come. 23 Oliver Lane, Melbourne; When so many restaurants are owned byGeorge Sykiotis and Scott Borg, the trio phone (03) 9639 5777. groups - think Neil Perry of Rockpool andalso co-own the restaurant and bar The Chris Lucas and his stable of Chin Chin,Smith in the south-east suburb of Prahran. It was 2006 that Italian restaurant Cecconi’s Kong and Baby - the young chef hasThe space has been given a complete moved from the Crown Complex to the more opened a small dining room that’s just hisrefurbishment, including a new entrance on urban, stylish surrounds of Flinders Lane in and his self-awareness is impressive.a different street. Forget the former foyer on the city. Move forward eight years and theRussell St, Lucy Liu’s entrance is now from restaurant has maintained its reputation as a The restaurant is named after Flaherty’sthe laneway behind the building on Oliver strong and consistent Italian dining room and favourite childhood author, Paul Jennings.Lane - it’s a sneaky and desirable entree bar that appeals to a corporate and familial The room is sparse in terms of decor butto what is a high energy, enjoyable room audience. The cellar bar accommodates is dressed with intentional statementsand experience. flexible meals, snacks and a glass or two from - contemporary artwork, quirky artefacts - the intelligent wine list. You may find arancini, such a pliable canvas allows the food and On entering, the buzz of the smart room San Daniele proscuitto with grissini and an service to standout.hits you quickly, with its moody reds and express lunch menu for the city workers thatlots of pale woods in a large space that’s have them in and out and fed well on a time Already considered a signature dish, thebeen made cosy by clever partitioning and limit. The dining room while plush, dark and kangaroo carpaccio is a must-try. Servedbooth seating. The menu at Lucy Liu’s is textured is, in equal parts, comfortable and partially frozen, it literally melts in your mouth,broadly Asian. Choosing not to focus on one warm. This feeling is augmented by very it’s heightened by a wasabi avocado creamparticular country, the team has plucked friendly, knowledgeable staff who can read and meaty wine jelly. It’s a fusion of texturesdishes that express the diversity of cuisines a table in a flash - some customers wantacross the large continent. Tempura soft a chat, others are in a business meeting and temperatures that wakes up the palate.shell crabs, Thai fish cakes and Korean - all the while the staff accommodate just Other dishes also include bug meat withfried chicken ribs punctuate the small bites the right requirements and mood for eachsection of the menu. Move through to the table’s experience. In some circles this fermented cabbage and caraway or aDumplings and Buns and you’ll find Peking could be considered old-school waiting but quirky and intelligent combination of kale,duck-filled pillows with a punchy hoi sin professionalism never gets tired. And the nettle, pork cheek and lime pickle. Flahertysauce or barbecue lap chuong “hot dog” menu is rich with seasonal dishes, warm veal is being brave going out on his own, but is- the porky Chinese sausage in a toasted carpaccio with celeriac remoulade or roasted also being clever about it and sticking to hismilk bun with wombok coleslaw. quail with quince paste, pate and toasted guns. Call ahead to book, it’s only 35 seats brioche sees classic technique utilised in and fills quickly. 142 Bridge Rd, Richmond; solid, contemporary flavours. Pastas cover phone (03) 9078 0113. the gamut of big flavours - pappardelle with pork and beef ragu, to fresh seafood in a Left: Cecconi interior. just-tossed linguini with garlic and chilli or Right: Lucy Liu interior. a risotto dotted with meaty prawns finished with preserved lemon. Cecconi’s also has a strong belief in sustainability, recycling waste and creating compost that is being used in community gardens and in their own kitchen garden. The Bortolotto family has fed Melbourne for many years and Cecconi’s is still an interesting and vibrant dining room to visit November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 43
sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING When a restaurant is full on a windswept of crumbed potato chips was a welcome main reasons Nomad Cellar Door officiallywinter’s night, you know it’s got a lot going for and delicious departure from breadcrumbs. launched online in October, so patrons andit. Casa Ristorante Italiano may be located My fellow diner chose the crisp pork belly everyone else can order wine for homein the prime tourist territory of King Street as a main and didn’t need breakfast the delivery. I have visited Nomad three timesWharf but there’s not too much passing next morning. There was enough meat and witnessed its transition from the “latest”traffic to cover for a lack of bookings when to feed two, sitting atop truffle mash and to a well-loved restaurant fulfilling its missionweather conditions are foul rather than drizzled with an apple mousse and cider of offering the best of local produce. Whatfair. The waterfront location was previously reduction. All of the pasta is house-made hasn’t changed is the fact that it’s packedfilled by Casa di Nico, which attracted very and the restaurant’s website makes much for lunch and dinner. Executive chef Nathanmixed reviews. But earlier this year the of the aragosta and aranchio ravioli - four Sasi has worked at Heston Blumenthal’sPlatinum Restaurant Group (The Blackbird very large pasta pillows filled with lobster Dinner restaurant in London, and Sydney’sCafe, Whitewater Grill etc) blew away the and crab, and glistening with a shellfish est and Sean’s Panaroma in Sydney, andnegative sniping with a smart re-fit, courtesy butter sauce. This is no primi piatti, where the menu is riddled with share dishes thatof DS17, the interior designers responsible you are expected to follow with a second combine Mediterranean fusion flavours withfor such major prestige Sydney eateries as course of ocean trout fillet or tenderloin pickled, cured and smoked meats madeAlpha and China Republic. Many people medallion - a big slab of prime beef slow- to rigorously traditional standards. Oncehead to Casa Ristorante solely for the roasted at a temperature of 65C. The dessert a month Nomad also hosts winemakerpizzas, theatrically whipped up by Sicilian list is tempting and full of standout options, dinners. I prefer working my way throughdough maestro Salvador D’Avola. Hot including warm chocolate tart with salted the menu on each visit but have been drawnfavourites include the Romagnola - pear, caramel and tiramisu with chocolate “soil”. back to clear favourites each time. It’s thatprosciutto, semi-dried tomato, rocket and We only had room for a shared serving of hard to go past the goat’s cheese churros,gorgonzola, and Maialina - 18-month- pannacotta with berries. The wine list offers homemade Nomad charcuterie, king prawnscured prosciutto, vine-ripened tomato, solid and quality choices from Serralunga with pine nuts, butter and parmesan, Nomadmascarpone and mozzarella. Considering d’Alba Barolo to Henschke’s Peggy’s Hill jersey milk haloumi with BBQ zucchini andthe size of the venue, service is swift and Riesling, Vasse Felix Chardonnay and the Wagyu skirt steak with gentleman’sfriendly. The cheerful waitstaff hail mainly Mr Rigg’s The Gaffer Shiraz. When you relish. Nomad, 16 Foster St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9280 3395.from Russia, the UK, Italy and Germany, are looking for a water view, a bustlingwith a sprinkling of Aussies adding a atmosphere and large servings of quality Chippendale, by the three major educationallocal touch. Be warned. Casa Ristorante food, Casa Ristorante delivers a culinary centres of Sydney University, UTS and Notrespecialises in upmarket menu listings but home run. Casa Ristorante Italiano, Building Dame, has flourished as a gallery and diningdoesn’t stint on portion-size. I ordered the 42-48, The Promenade, King Street Wharf; destination over the past few years. I oftenstuffed zucchini flowers and received four phone (02) 9279 4115. stop by Brickfields for some of the best breadlightly battered flower heads stuffed with in the city and it’s a short walk to Zigi’s Artfeta cheese and black olives. Not the two I Nomad has been raking in rave reviews Wine Cheese Bar. Chef Zigi Ozeri presideswas expecting for the price of $16.90. The since it opened just over a year ago. The over an “Ausraeli” menu which fuses modernother most-ordered entrees were: Arancini early 20th century warehouse conversion, all Australian, Israeli and Mediterranean cooking- fried risotto balls with chilli mayonaise concrete and steel, also provides a cellar door styles. For many patrons, though, the vastand Capesante Scottate - seared scallops close to the CBD, which showcases a stellar selection of cheeses from house-made toon a bed of garlic-flavoured puree. The selection of boutique wines. The emphasis artisan cheeses from France, Italy, Spain,seafood was lightly juicy and the topping is on Orange, Mudgee and Canberra the UK and more are lure enough. All the bottlings as a point-of-difference. One of the boutique wines on offer are served by the glass. If there’s none open, the staff will create a “wine of the moment” by opening something to tempt you - regardless of price. Housed in a multi-storey terrace, Zigi’s also doubles as a cultural and learning centre, offering art exhibits, cooking classes and a deli. Better yet, the kitchen stays open to midnight. Zigi’s Art Wine Cheese Bar, 85 Abercrombie St, Chippendale; phone (02) 9699 4222. Left: Arancini - fried risotto balls with chilli mayonaise from Casa Ristorante.44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL Madame Wu opened quietly in the CBD all over the globe. Upper Plaza Level, syrup. 1A, 20 Lambert Rd, Indooroopilly;recently on the former site of Siana, a Riparian Plaza 71, Eagle St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3157 2698.large modern Asian venue that saw its Phone (07) 3229 5070.Fortitude Valley second venue also close Another newbie that deserves ain 2013. They’ve gutted the place and Much more humble, but still in the spotlight, not for the Asian flavoursadded lots of wood, an indoor/outdoor Asian realm is Sendok Garpu, a tiny but for approachable bistro food thatentry that bridges the main two dining Indonesian ‘warung’ or pop up that draws inspiration from all over Europespaces with the expansive terrace that operated in an industrial estate in - French terrines, slow roasted goat,overlooks the Story Bridge and a wide Cooper’s Plains in Brisbane’s south. Scandinavian-style smoked fish andbend of the river that extends down to People came from far and wide to the trend-du-jour, pickled everythingthe famous Kangaroo Point Cliffs that are sample owner Alicia Martino’s authentic is the Catbird Seat Bistro. On busybeautifully lit at night. versions of Javanese, Balinese and Stanley St in East Brisbane, it’s a jewel other-Asian cuisine. The child of a of a place, composed interior with cute There is no Madame Wu, she is an Chinese mother and father from the Aceh seating in the old shop front windows.inspirational character who perhaps Province of Indonesia, Alicia was raised Bentwood chairs, wall shelving stackedgave rise to the menu that links Eastern in Jakarta and takes inspiration from with cookbooks and pickled vegetables,flavours and ingredients with Western her grandmother, who ran a ‘warung’ in and an open kitchen elevated abovetechniques. East-West fusion is nothing Indonesia when she was a child. the dining room all add to the warmthnew and it can really backfire but it of the place.doesn’t here at all. In fact scallop Now she has crossed the City anddumplings, served crisp and doused opened a second location, this one in At a time where restaurant precincts,in deliciously velvety verjus butter and a leafy courtyard reminiscent of indoor- boasting several large dining roomstopped with black tobiko pop in the outdoor style of many Balinese venues, in expensive areas, are constantlymouth. There’s a whole section devoted more substantial than the pop-up. Begin emerging, this cosy little spot is a veryto dumplings - Moreton Bay bugs served with delicious, pillowy vegetable fritters welcome addition to the neighbourhood.with XO sauce and lime, steamed duck served with a punchy peanut sauce then There’s a clever little wine list thatbuns and the moreish-sounding wagyu sip on a soto ayam, shredded chicken marries well with dishes like Cloudydumplings with Jerusalem artichoke with glass noodles and a clear broth and Bay clams with orecchiette and tomatopuree and chives. follow that with something from the grill. in a shellfish broth and juniper-smoked Half chicken is done Javanese style, mackerel and fennel escabeche with The rest of the menu is divided by the marinated before being grilled over radishes and rye. It’s a first venue forvarious proteins - seafood, poultry, beef coals and served with a sambal terasi, chef/owner James Guldberg who hasand pork then moves into rice, noodles, a shrimp paste and chilli-based sambal. headed up the kitchens of Sardine Tin,vegetables and salad. There’s plenty of The Survey Co and Aquitaine Brasserie,choice, but if that is overwhelming there From the wok station comes the and his clean, eclectic blend of classicare a couple of banquet menus that classics nasi goreng and mie goreng, bistro with Scandinavian accents, givescombine starters with slow braises like rice and noodle dishes, staples in the place its edge. Being in a “catbirdbeef cheeks in rock sugar, raw yellow Indonesia that are offered with your seat” apparently means being in afin and kim chi salad and stir-fried crab. choice of seafood, chicken, salted fish prime spot and, while you can’t swing or vegetarian. You also have the choice a very big cat in this petit restaurant, The main feature of the dining room is of mild or spicy, but be warned, the you certainly are sitting pretty. 2/888a vast cement tree enclosed in floor-to- spicy is right up there with bushfires Stanley St, East Brisbane; phone (07)ceiling glass with bar-style seating lining and furnaces. Fresh coconut water has 3392 2645.the cube. There’s plenty of fire and action large slices of fresh coconut meat in it,in the open kitchen and the bar features there are mung bean jelly drinks and Left: The cosy interior of The Catbird Seat Bistro,a well-stocked wine room filled with the strange-looking, sweet tasting basil Chef/owner James Guldberg at work in the openfamiliar and not-so familiar labels from seed, longan, coconut cubes in pandan kitchen, the fish of the day (snapper). November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 45
winewords L U K E T O C A C I UP A T R I C K O F C OO N A W A RR A - W I N E M A K E RSKYE MURTAGH OUR CHILDHOOD surroundings can at Patrick of Coonawarra in 2009 and best. But, at the same time, still playingoften play a part in shaping our lifelong since taking over the reins, has secured around with small batches, styles andpursuits and that’s certainly been the case several trophies and remains committed cellar-door-only wines.for Luke Tocaciu. The eldest son of the to producing hand-crafted, premiumlate Patrick Tocaciu, himself a celebrated wines from the family’s estate owned and What do you think is the biggestSouth Australian winemaker, Luke grew managed vineyards. challenge facing winemakers today?up with the vineyards of the BarossaValley and Coonawarra on his doorstep. What’s the best piece of winemaking I think motivation and enthusiasm is aToday he’s at the helm of a winery his advice you’ve ever received? huge challenge today. With words likefather founded a decade ago. Patrick glut, downturn, duopoly, oversupply,Tocaciu worked as chief winemaker The best advice I had was from my discount etc getting thrown around infor several major labels through the Father. He taught me to always trust your almost every news story or industry1980s and ’90s - securing international taste and instincts rather than what the article, it is hard to stay committed to theaccolades for Tollana, Penfolds, Hollick lab numbers tell you. Winemaking is an industry and focused on producing theWines, Heathfield Ridge and DiGiorgio art first and science second. best possible wines.Family Wines. Having established hisown family vineyards at Coonawarra In your view, who sits at the top of the Tell us about Patrick of Coonawarra’sand Wrattonbully, Luke’s father realised mountain in the winemaking world? cider line.a personal goal in 2004 - creating hisown wine label and officially opening the I would have to say Sue Hodder at I established Applelation Cider nearlyPatrick of Coonawarra cellar door. While Wynns and Andrew Wigan at Peter two years ago out of a passion forPatrick passed away last year, his legacy Lehmann. Both are close family friends producing quality, crisp and clean cider.lives on under the direction of Luke - who that I have known my whole life and I have What started out as a hobby for my own,has inherited his father’s passion and watched them achieve great things for the and friends, consumption lead to a full-aptitude for the craft. With a degree in Australian wine industry. scale production. I took my winemakingOenology from the University of Adelaide knowledge and adapted it to cider, in ain hand, Luke completed vintages in the How are you making your own mark on similar way that I make riesling aimingClare and Barossa Valleys - as well as the Patrick of Coonawarra brand? for a pure expression of fruit. Balancethe Coonawarra and later the Sonoma is the most important factor, the crispValley in the US. Luke joined his father I am continuing the family tradition and flavour of an apple is captured and now running the business and making all perfectly balanced with the sweetness. It the wine. I am trying to consolidate our is packaged in a 375mL sparkling bottle range and stay focused on what we do46 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
and with the name, Applelation, it is a it is as important. I find price point andgood fit with the wine industry. variety are their key influences.What are your thoughts on wineries What’s been your most rewardingdiversifying into production beyond professional success to date?wine? Last year I won a trophy for our 2012 Diversification can have huge risks and riesling at the Boutique Wine Awards. Thisalso huge rewards for any business, and was the first vintage that I was in chargewineries are no exception. There are some of Patrick of Coonawarra’s wines and thegreat examples of success stories within last major award that my Dad saw me winthe industry, but also plenty of failures. It before he passed away.is a key element for a sustainable future,but only if you do it for the right reasons. How have your personal wine tastes changed over the years?From a consumer perspective, how doyou think Australia’s wine culture has My tastes haven’t really changed overchanged over the last 20 years? the years. I have developed a passion for riesling from working with my Dad, but They have a huge amount of choice in cabernet sauvignon is - and always haswhat, where and how to purchase their been - my favourite. It is mainly becausewine these days. Consumers are more in of its complexity and varietal and regionaltouch with what they like and know how to expression, but also the fact I live andget it and how much they need to spend. breathe Coonawarra.I think it is a great time to be a consumer,quality at all price points is exceptional What new developments are on theand you can get it delivered to your door cards for Patrick of Coonawarra in thewithout leaving the house. New Year?Christmas is coming up - what wines I have a few small batch wines in thewill make it to the Tocaciu table on the works that I am excited about. I have justbig day? released a Fume Blanc and have another Mt Gambier Pinot coming out soon. Christmas is a great chance for us toopen a few special bottles. This year, as Name the most memorable bottle ofa tribute to my Dad, there is sure to be wine you’ve ever consumed.a few older wines that he made in hisearly days. Maybe a Tollana Riesling or It was a 1963 Mildara Peppermint PattyHollick Coonawarra Cabernet. I’m sure Coonawarra Cabernet at a masterclassthere will be some sparkling red and a as part of the Coonawarra Cabernetfew Applelation Ciders consumed, too. Celebrations weekend. One of the classic cult wines that stood up to its reputation.If you could get any single wine When you’re not in the vineyard, wheredelivered to your Christmas stocking, are you most likely to be found?what would it be? In a VW Kombi on the way to the beach A bottle of Dom Perignon. I’m getting to go fishing or surfing, or in my shedmarried in January and I need to stock fixing my Kombis.up on expensive champagne for thewedding. How would you describe your personal collection and what’s the top drop in it?How influential do you feel “regionality”has become in the purchase process My collection is predominantly cabernetof today’s average wine consumer? and about 90 per cent of that Coonawarra cabernet. Top drop value wise would To some, I think it is very important. have to be a 1983 Grange Magnum thatPeople are more aware of where their food I “found” in my Dad’s old cellar. Top dropcomes from and wine is no exception. To personally, our first release of 1998 ‘Homethe average wine consumer, I don’t think Block’ Cabernet. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 47 BRA034_POC_AgedRiesling2010_WineState_59x270_Ad_8F/A0.1in/1d4d 21:06 PM
Premier International The HKTDC Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair is a premier event that provides an unrivalled opportunity to source products and keep up to date on the latest market developments. The fair leverages on Hong Kong’s reputation as a cosmopolitan and its position as a commercial and cultural hub for Asia. Hong Kong enjoys the key connections with mainland China in particular, have been well exploited by Hong Kong’s wine trading industry. The 2014 show features over 1,000 exhibitors covering all aspects of the drinks business; it is not just limited to Old World producers and New World wineries but also a huge array of spirits from different regions. This year, we welcome Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Water Economy, the Republic of Macedonia and Australia In Vines Association Inc.to participate for the first time and enhance the diversity of the fair. The Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair, is hugely popular with wine and spirits buyers from around the world, as demonstrated by last year’s attendance figures: 20,000 trade visitors came through the doors over the three-day event, while over 23,000 members of the public flocked to the show in just one day on the open day.Whisky Wonders Wine Industry Conference Master Classes One of the major highlights of the 2014 show is the dedicated exhibition zone and Wine Tastings bar area for whisky. Visitors have another opportunity to connect with exhibitors carrying whisky products which will be staged near the Whisky Bar area in Hall 3 Concourse. The sophisticated setting of the Whisky Bar provides an appropriate arena for tasting and learning more about whisky in particular enhancing visitors’ knowledge and experience of the so-called “water of life”. The Tasting and Education sessions, held at the Bar area during the fair, are designed to appeal to all visitors, be they whisky neophytes or aficionados. Whisky producers will be on site to introduce their products, provide advice on appreciation and offer tastings. As well as the regular booths, visitors have another opportunity to connect with exhibitors carrying whisky and other spirits products in the inviting, open setting of the Whisky and Spirits Zone, staged adjacent to the Whisky Bar area at the main buyers’ pathway in Hall 3 Concourse.Stay Ahead of the Marketwith Wine Education EventsThe show offers an unparalleled opportunity to keep up with the latest developments in theindustry. Events and activities include the Wine Industry Conference, master classes, winetastings, and cocktail demonstrations at Ice Bar, seminars and buyers forums. A particularhighlight is the series of fine wine tasting sessions, supported by HSBC Business Banking.Seminars Fine Wine Tasting Sessions Cocktail demonstrations at Ice Bar
Wine Trading PlatformNew this year are two notable events.The Asia-Oceania Sommelier Baron’sTable is a forum that focuses on thedevelopment of young sommeliers inAsia, while the “Management Power-up Workshop for F&B Operators- How to Well-utilise Sommeliers/Wine Steward Position?” discusseshow to maximize the effectiveness incommunication between the operatorsand sommeliers/ wine stewards.Building Networks HKTDC Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits FairThe wine and spirits industry is byits very nature a sociable sector, 6-8 November 2014 (Thu-Sat)and personal connections are vitalto success. The fair enables buyers Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centreto make business contacts with more 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kongindustry peers and overseas media (Harbour Road Entrance)through networking receptions and Hotline : +852 1830 668happy hours. Website : www.hktdc.com/ex/hkwinefair/04 Fair Opening Hours 7-8 November (Thu-Fri) Buyer forums 10:30am–7:30pm Open to Trade only1Interactive Market 10:30am–6pm 9 November (Sat)Information Open to Trade & Public1&2It is vital to understand the demands 1. Trade only. Visitors under 18 will not be admitted. (Free Admission)of markets – and what better way No liquor for person under the age of 18. Immediate consumption of liquor purchasedto achieve this than by interacting at the exhibition venue is NOT allowed.directly with end-consumers at thefair’s public day, staged on the last day 2. Open to public by ticket admission. Visitors under 18 will not be admitted.of the show. It provides the chance toengage face-to-face with wine lovers For trade visitors, you can reserve your FREE admissionand gauge their reaction to new badge through one of the following channels:products and to find out opinions on Smartphone Info Site - download HKTDC Mobile apps orvarious styles of wines and spirits in Mobile Info Site - hktdc.com/wap/wine/T118different markets, especially thosein Asia.
W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN CLARENDON HILLS 1999 $70 2001 $80 1957 $12,000 2009 $200 WINES 2002 $80 2010 $280 Astralis Shiraz 2000 $65 2003 $80 1958 $4,100 2004 $90 1994 $200 2001 $65 2005 $75 1959 $2,000 Bin 60A 1995 $200 2002 $85 2006 $70 1960 $1,500 1996 $250 2003 $65 2007 $85 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 BASS PHILLIP 1997 $200 2004 $75 Hill of Grace 2008 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $550 Premium Pinot Noir 1998 $260 1980 $280 2009 $75 1999 $260 1981 $220 2010 $70 1990 $75 2000 $270 2005 $65 1982 $250 1963 $1,200 2006 $400 1991 $90 2001 $290 2006 $70 1983 $220 1964 $1,200 1992 $95 2002 $300 2007 $65 1984 $220 1965 $600 1993 $80 2003 $200 1985 $280 1994 $110 2004 $350 1986 $330 1995 $80 2005 $230 2008 $55 1987 $250 1966 $1,000 1996 $110 2006 $250 2009 $70 1988 $330 1967 $600 1997 $140 2007 Not Released 1989 $280 1968 $600 1998 $140 2008 Not Released GIACONDA 1990 $460 1969 $560 Stonewell Shiraz 1999 $120 2009 Not Released 1991 $400 1990 $90 2000 $120 2010 $200 Chardonnay 1992 $350 1970 $400 1991 $70 2001 $160 2011 Not Released 1990 $110 1993 $300 1971 $720 2002 $145 2012 $210 1991 $60 1994 $360 1972 $400 1992 $60 2003 $110 1995 $320 1993 $65 2004 $140 1992 $85 1996 $480 Moss Wood 1973 $450 1994 $55 2005 $80 CLONAKILLA 1997 $300 Cab Sauv 2007 $130 Shiraz Viognier 1993 $90 1998 $420 1990 $130 1974 $480 1995 $55 2008 $85 1990 $65 1994 $100 1999 $380 1975 $460 2009 $85 1993 $65 1995 $85 2001 $380 1991 $150 1976 $850 1996 $70 2010 $90 1994 $85 2002 $420 1997 $55 2011 $100 1995 $65 1996 $140 2004 $380 1992 $120 1977 $450 1998 $85 2005 $390 1993 $100 1997 $95 2006 $180 1978 $380 1998 $110 2007 Not Released 1994 $100 1979 $400 1999 $75 2008 $540 2000 $70 1999 $120 1995 $130 1980 $380 2001 $65 Armagh Shiraz 1996 $120 2000 $110 1990 $200 1997 $100 1981 $400 2002 $70 2001 $110 1991 $120 1982 $380 2002 $160 1992 $140 1998 $130 1983 $480 2003 $55 1993 $110 2004 $85 2004 $190 1994 $130 1999 $130 1984 $350 2005 $60 1995 $130 2000 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2005 $120 1996 $190 2001 $130 1985 $380 2006 $60 1997 $130 2006 $110 1997 $140 1986 $520Block 5 Pinot Noir 1998 $150 2007 $120 1998 $250 2002 $120 1987 $350 2007 $55 1999 $180 2008 $601997 $80 1999 $55 2008 $130 2000 $120 2003 $90 1988 $380 1998 $95 2001 $140 2000 $90 2009 Not Released 2002 $200 2004 $100 1989 $3601999 Not Released 2001 $130 2004 $160 2005 $1002000 $150 2010 $130 2005 $120 2006 $70 1990 $540 2002 $130 2011 $130 2006 $160 1991 $4602001 $120 2007 $952002 $110 2003 $100 2012 $130 2008 $160 2007 $95 1992 $380 2003 $85 2004 $120 Chardonnay 2008 $90 1993 $380 Art Series 2009 $852004 $110 2005 $110 2010 $80 1994 $380 Basket Press 2006 $120 1990 $60 1995 $3702005 $140 1991 $60 Shiraz 2007 $190 1992 $70 2011 $90 1996 $500 1990 $1502006 $100 1993 $652007 $120 2008 $90 1994 $85 1997 $380 1991 $1402008 $120 2009 $95 1995 $100 1998 $5802009 $90 2010 $90 1996 $65 Mount Mary 1999 $400 1992 $952010 $95 2011 $75 Meshach 1997 $90 1993 $110 2011 $85 2012 $70 1998 $70 Quintet 2000 $420 1994 $95 1990 $100 1999 $75 1990 $150 1991 $85 2000 $75 2001 $380 1992 $80 1991 $120 2002 $450 1995 $100 1996 $180 2012 $95 1993 $70 1992 $110 2003 $420 1997 $90 1993 $95 1994 $90 2004 $460 1995 $70 1994 $110 1998 $190BROKENWOOD 1996 $90 2005 $430 1999 $110 1997 Not Released 1995 $100 2006 $520Graveyard Shiraz 1998 $110 1996 $120 2000 $90 1999 $90 2007 $420 2001 $951990 $90 2000 $70 1997 $120 2008 $620 1991 $110 2001 $110 2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 2002 $95 1998 $160 2003 $1001992 Not Released 2003 $60 1999 $1301993 $80 1999 $95 2004 $70 2004 $110 2000 $65 2005 $65 2000 $1201994 $80 2006 $65 2001 $110 2005 $110 2001 $110 2007 Not Released 2006 $1101995 $85 2002 $90 2008 $85 2002 $130 Greenock Creek1996 $95 2003 $90 2003 $110 2007 $85 Roennfeldt Rd1997 $85 2004 $110 Shiraz 2004 $140 Bin 707 2008 $85 1990 $250 1998 $140 2005 $85 2005 $120 1991 $250 2009 $85 1992 $210 1999 $90 2006 $70 2006 $120 1993 $220 2010 $100 1994 $220 2000 $140 2007 $100 2007 $90 1995 Not Released THREE RIVERS/2001 $85 1996 $230 2008 $95 2008 $95 1997 $190 Chris Ringland 1998 $2602002 $75 2009 $95 2009 Not Released 1999 $200 Wines Shiraz2003 $80 2000 Not Released2004 $85 2010 $100 2010 $85 2001 $210 1990 $520 2011 $120 2002 $220 2011 $75 2003 Not Released2005 $85 2004 $200 1991 $690 1995 $280 2005 $230 1992 $6002006 $110 ELDERTON 1996 $260 2006 $220 1993 $7002007 $90 Command Shiraz 1997 $160 2007 $200 2008 Not Released 1990 $90 1998 $350 2008 $210 1994 $6502009 $85 1999 $200 1995 $450 2000 $220 1991 Not Released 2001 $250 Bin 95 Grange 1996 $830 1992 $100 2002 $320 1951 $46,000 1993 $65 2003 $210 1952 $17,000 1997 Not Released 2004 $210 1953 $14,000 1998 $850 1994 $85 2005 $230 1954 $11,000 1999 $600 2006 $260 1955 $4,000 1995 $75 1956 $14,000 2000 $450 1996 $95 1997 $70 2001 $800 2002 $800 1998 $95 2003 $500 50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014
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