INTERNSHIP DOCUMENT Project Mentor COMPANY TOHL Project Designer : PREETHI KOSANAM Mr.Thomas Samuel , CHENNAI, TAMIL NADU Roll No.BD/18/3393, Associate Professor. DEPARTMENT OF LEATHER DESIGN Batch (2018- 22) Semester VII, (FOOTWEAR & PRODUCTS) B.Des. (Leather Design) NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY NIFT CAMPUS, TARAMANI, CHENNAI- 600113
Tohl COMPLETION CERTIFICATE
Tohl Preface As part of the NIFT curriculum, students are obliged to complete an industrial internship training to gain experience and a better understanding of the manufacturing of leather products, which will aid us in our future design careers. I interned at Tohl, a company that specializes in the production of leather goods and products. The document covers every area of leather goods manufacturing and provides an overview of the brand Tohl. The report also includes a complete analysis of the brand, product development, and skilled work force. The document also showcases the project which enabled me to do client interpretation and design men's wallet..
Tohl Acknowledgement I would like to express my heartfelt gratitude to our Director, Prof. Dr. Anitha Manohar, of the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Chennai, for providing me with the opportunity to learn more about the industry and gain firsthand experience by working with a reputable organisation. I would like to thank my Faculty mentor, Mr. Thomas Samuel, Assistant Professor, Department of Leather Design, and our Centre co-ordinator, Mr. T.R Shankaranarayanan, Associate Professor, Department of Leather Design, for their constant support and valuable guidance throughout the internship training period. I would also want to thank Mr.Manish Kawrla (Managing Director) and Ms. Shashi Kumari (Head Designer) for selecting me as an intern at Tohl and for guiding me through the completion of my internship assignment. I'd also want to express my gratitude to everyone who works for the firm for their continuous support.
Tohl Objectives Company, Market & Client profiles, Organizational structure, Categories / Types of products/services of design studio/fashion boutique, studio/boutique formats, layout & Infrastructure, Departments and various operations, Inputs for various products/projects/services of design studio / products of fashion boutiques, product manufacture, Swatch collection Costing, Pricing & reflections of learning Plan and execute any freelance or classroom project related to Design, Product Development, Merchandising Process, Productivity, Quality Control Systems, Marketing & Branding, etc., or – any unit specific projects that the industry proposes as per the brief given by the clients/ industries/institute mentors. Project brief as given by the mentors/clients Project Objectives, Scope, Implementation Methodology & Process details, achievement of project deliverables as expected/specified by the client.
Tohl Index PART - A PART - B 1. Introduction 14 1.Project-1 ( zero (Tohl) 49 2. Project-2(Shoeline) 61 2.About the founder 15 3.Project-3( Photography & 74 3.Brand Profile 16 Videography) 4.Types of products 21 5.Company Layout 22 6.Organisational Structurre 23 7. Operations & Various Department 25 8.Machine used in Manufacturing of leather goods 28 9.Production Process 30 10. Costing 35 11. Swatches 37
Tohl Introduction The industrial training program of eight weeks duration was undertaken in Tohl utilizing the best of resource provided by them to come up with a zero waste men's wallet using scrap leather was a good learning and informative experience. Throughout the internship, I had the opportunity to understand, assimilate, and, most importantly, apply all of the knowledge I had gained during my years at the institute. After 6 weeks of instruction, I felt I had a good understanding of the leather products sector. The internship program allowed me to fully utilise my creative abilities and design understanding, which will aid me in my future design profession. 14
Tohl ABOUT THE FOUNDER FLeather had been a part of Manish Kawlra's life for the past 25 years at Gaitonde Group. He believed there was enough market space to develop and expand a well-designed, high-quality line of leather accessories that could be sold at reasonable costs. This resulted in the birth of the brand -Tohl. tThe Sac and Satchel Company, which sells leather bags and accessories to Europe, manufactures töhl's products. It is a sister concern of Shoeline, a firm that has been engaged in the manufacture and export of leather footwear to top European brands for the last fifteen years and has a manufacturing plant in Chennai, India. The team brings to töhl a great eye for detail and a depth of expertise gleaned from years of worldwide experience in leather production, producing a collection of traditional leather accessories for you. With töhl, you can witness the union of luxury and leather craftsmanship. SHOE LINE Shoeline first appeared in 2002. Since then, the company has developed rapidly, adding customers to its portfolio as it expanded. Shoeline now manufactures shoe uppers for a number of high-end brands in the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Austria, and Italy. The firm's Promoter & Sole Proprietor has over 25 years of expertise in the leather industry. Shoeline is a Govt. of India certified Export House and was recently awarded first place for Excellent Export Performance in a specific turnover category by the Govt. of India. THE SAC & SATCHEL The Sac & Satchel Company was founded in 2015 with the goal of producing and exporting high-quality leather bags and accessories. Recognizing a retail market gap. 15
Tohl Tohl Brand Profile
Tohl ABOUT At töhl, we bring together the best of contemporary styling and technology along with the legacy of time to make excellent leather accessories. Hand made leather smithing techniques. 'töhl' is a brand that stands for luxury and artisanal art, which means skin in Tamil. We produce our own leathers and make them the world's greatest source for beautifully polished and durable items. With an effortless sophistication and a wide range of specialist treatments, töhls classic pieces play with colours and texture with the addition of current palettes. Each product in our product range has a sense of antique charm blended with the understated modern elegance of its surface adornment with a minimalist style that stems from a hard-working method. We deal with a wide range of hand-picked leathers, handcrafted with respect through techniques which conform to international standards. The catalogue of töhl offers multiple goods with a worldwide aesthetic, from the exquisite textures of silky suedes to brilliant metallic finishes and leathers with exotic designs and colours. 17
Tohl Design Philosophy Tohl's sense of design is characterised by clean, minimalist and modern aesthetics. The sophistication of our products is seen in the style of our collections of seasons. The phrase \"Feel Tohl,\" our motto is inspired by our sensory products. Our key aspects in every design is it's functionality with a dash of style. Craftmenship Our products are made by hand, using ancient traditions passed on by generations of craftsmen. Every product is handcrafted carefully by our artisans whom we choose after careful deliberation. Brand Image Premium Sophisticated Minimalistic Designs 18
Tohl Market Segment Competitive Brands Geographics India Country Demographic TOHL Age 25-45 yrs Real leather Gender Male & Female produced in- Income 5 lakh rs and above Occupation Fresh graduates,working youth and career minded. house Psychographic Middle and upper class Rs.1,000-12,000 Travels frequently Social Class 5 lakh rs and above Students & Lifestyle Professional Personality Simple, Elegance, Behavior semi-formal look Occassion Upper and middle class Benifit towards product Enthusiastic 19
Tohl OUR SPECIALISATION Tohl is known for producing fine grain buff calf, cow calf, and cow upper leathers in grains, suedes, and nubucks. The leather used is mainly made from the skins of fallen animals, or animals that died naturally. The company's capacity to procure the best raw materials accessible in the country is a significant strength. The company's capacity to manufacture international level leathers has been aided by its location in southern India, which is a source of buff calf and cow-calf skins. This capacity is bolstered further by the fact that all raw material purchases are overseen personally by one of the company's directors. Heavier trimmings are sourced from China. The products categories manufactured at TOHL are products for Men Women 1.Laptop Bag 1. Handbags 2.Valise & Satchles 2.Women Shoulder Bags 3.crossbody & messenger bag 3.Sing & Crossbody Bag 4. Backpack 4.Totes & Bucket Bag 5.Duffle bag 5. Backpack 6.Waist Pouch 6.Waist Pouch 7.Travel Essential 7. Clutch 8. Wallets 8. Wallets 9.Bi-Fold wallets 9. valise 10.Tri-Fold wallets 11.Passport wallet 12.Money Clipper 13.Card Holder 21
Tohl COMPANY LAYOUT 22
Tohl ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE Managing Director : MANISH KARWLRA Merchandiser : Mrs. Sneha Reddy Designer : Ms. Shashi kumari Graphic Designer : Ms. Maryann vincent Content : Ms. Jasmin E-Commerce : Mrs. ABHINAYA Warehouse : SATYA 23
Tohl Managing Director Mr. Manish Kawrla General Manager Accounts Manager Human Resource & Merchandising Department Design & Sampling Store Cutting & Preparation Management Department Department Section Closing & Bottom Section Finishing Section Final Section & Bag Section Packaging Section 24
Tohl Operations & Various Departments
Tohl Human Resource Department The human resources department is in responsible of recruiting, selecting, training, and developing employees at all levels of the company. The human resources department ensures that the right individual is hired for the right position. They must be rewarded fairly. As a result, the HR department supervises and plans all retail staff actions. The performance of a retail business, on the other hand, is controlled by the retailer's compensation, salary, and incentive programmes. Unless a merchant offers a competitive salary plan, HR teams will be unable to recruit top-tier personnel. Operations The Operations Department is in charge of handling retailing and logistics, as well as identifying cost-cutting opportunities in order to convey things from manufacturers to customers. Design The design department can be considered as the research and development department of a clothing factoryit might be regarded the research and development department of a clothing factory. In most factories, the product development process is divided into seven stages: Forecasting, Collection Planning, Design, Technology , Pattern Creation, Sampling and Grading Patterns 26
Tohl Marketing The marketing department is responsible for promoting items to customers. You can provide a high-quality product at a reasonable price, but it is the marketing department's responsibility to keep customers aware. The marketing department informs, attracts, and lures customers to the retail store. To put it another way, the marketing department drives customers to the merchants. When a customer enters a store, it is up to the floor staff/customer service department to evaluate how well the consumer is treated. IT DEPARTMENT Many businesses, from financial institutions to retail shops, are benefiting from technological advancements. Technology is altering the way many organisations operate for the good of the firm and its consumers. It is important for businesses to stay up with the quick changes and advancements brought about by technology in their sector. LEGAL This department ensures all the legalities involved in retailng and buying. 27
Tohl Machinery used in manufacturing of Leather Goods
Tohl PLANNING FOR LEATHER PRODUCT INDUSTRY Leather, lining, and reinforcement are purchased from the material and leather stores, and then in the cutting area, materials are cut using dies with the assistance of machinery such as clicking machines, sewing machines, and so forth. Leather is divided and skived (one of the sides or all sides of the components) according to whether it is to be folded or sewn. Depending on the function, several machines are used for stitching. Machines are serviced on a regular basis. On the machined itself, safety precautions and instructions are also written. The following are the machines that are being used: 29
Tohl Production Process 30
Tohl PLANNING FOR LEATHER PRODUCT INDUSTRY The Leather Product Industry plan is based on the sequence of operations and the human resources involved. The human resource is based on the work done in a month with 8 hours shift per day having Sunday as a week off. So, there will be 25 working days with a daily target production of 30 bags per day. FIXED CAPITAL The Area for the plant will be in the state of Tamil Nadu , in an industrial area named Ekkaduthangal, which is surrounded by Jafferkhanpet, Guindy and Ramapuram. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT This department includes the process from Market research to design process and then finalising the design and its pattern. After the pattern a sample is made and graded. 31
Tohl PANEL CHECKING CUTTING DEPARTMENT The panels of the bags are checked in terms of the pattern. This department is responsible for taking care of the raw material handling in terms of its colour and grain and then marking the pattern in a right way by having and then cutting the pattern over the hide. They make sure to have minimum wastage. ASSEMBLING AND STITCHING DEPARTMENT In this department the function of fusing, lining cutting and attachment , assembling the panels and then stitching, buttoning (magnetic button) and thread cutting. The computerised machine will stitch base panels and then the stitching of lining with buttons and pockets will be done manually. 32
Tohl FINISHING This is the last process where the finishing of the product is made sure of by ironing it. The logo is embossed and tag is attached. TRIMMING TAGGING THE BAGS This step includes cutting of extra leather after the stitching and removing all extras After all the processes every bag is attached with a tag specifying its wash care and other details. in the bag. 33
Tohl INSPECTION DEPARTMENT DISPATCHING In this department there inspection done on all the bags made. Which would include the The packed cartons are loaded onto trucks and then dispatched from the checking of buttons, stitches, embossed logo and any manufacturing defect in the plant. pieces by making sure of the AQL limit. PACKAGING Here all the bags are packed and cartons for dispatching are done. 37
Tohl Costing Sheet 35
Tohl Swatches
Tohl Brief : Swatch Development : In this project, the students will be exposed to various leather techniques, develop concepts where the brand is focused on. The students will be given a task to study quilting and riveting, for which the swatches will be developed offline. DELIVERABLES: • By the end of the program, we expect the students to come up with: • The swatches that are made needs to be production friendly • Designs need to be simple yet unique As per the student’s presentation, the design and correction will be considered.
Tohl Concept - 1
NOITARIPSNI nordehartet 46
Tohl Inspiration 64 tetrahedron The 64 point Star Tetrahedron holds the geometry of the vacuum of all matter. The 64 point tetrahedron is made up by joining eight star tetrahedrons at a central point. The shape contains within it the cube, the octahedron, the star tetrahedron and the cubeoctahedron. The systems theorist Buckminster Fuller devised it to be an accurate way to conceptualize space. He called this form the Isotropic Vector Matrix. Isotropic meaning the same in all directions. The 64 Tetrahedron Grid is made up of 64 tetrahedra. The outer surface is composed of 144 triangles. The surface of the 64 Tetrahedron Grid contains a total of 25.920° degrees, the same amount of years in the Precession of the Equinoxes. The cube can be divided into only five tetrahedra if we triangulate it a different way, by cutting off every other vertex. The tetrahedron in the middle is regular. Material Used Category Stitching thread - 40 ticket ( green,white,yellow & red. Bucket bag Foam - 3mm Eva sheet - 1.5 mm Fabric Fusing Leather used - Soft milled spice red,Montana Leather green, Nappa Leather yellow, Silky nappa pearl,silky napa champange. 40
Tohl Swatch - 2 Swatch - 3 Swatch - 1 (freestyle) 41
Tohl Swatch - 5 Swatch - 4 42
Tohl Concept - 2
Tohl Inspiration Rjasthani Mirror work Mirror work can be traced back to 13th century Persia, and made its way to India during the Mughal era. ... Mirrors in traditional Balochi mirror work are cut to represent shapes such as flower petals and leaves. Since then, handcraft was patronised by the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Haryana. Materials used Rivet - Circle dom - 3mm,6mm,12mm Eyelet - 6 mm Leather used - Soft nappa vintage Tan, Soft nappa Burgundy , Soft vitello nude, Soft milled spice red, Dream velour herbst. Category of Products Straps of bags 44
NOITARIPSNI krow rorrim inahtsajaR
Tohl Swatch - 2 Swatch - 1 46
Tohl Swatch - 4 Swatch - 5 Swatch - 3 47
Tohl Projects Undertaken
Tohl PROJECT - 1
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