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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 2 Craft Research Document 2023
Credits for completing this documentation go to the entire team. Through this documentation, we take this opportunity to express our sincere grat- itude and thankfulness to the almighty and each and every one who helped us in making one experience in Kullu Shawl successful. First of all, we would like to thank the academic system of our college. National Institute of Fashion Technology for incorporating such a study in our curriculum that helps the student to know about the craft in various regions and understand it. We would also like to show our gratitude to the authorities of Kullu Clusters- Mr Dot Ram ( Head Weaving Master of Apple village ), They helped us to know more about their society and the weavers, The current Rate, Demand, Schemes, and laws available to the weavers. We are also thankful to our course coordinator and subject mentor Mr Aman Kumar for their continuous and deliberate discussion on how to understand the craft better and compile a sensible document on the same. Special thanks and gratitude to the workers we met during the entire journey interviewed and through whom we got to know all the existing details About the weaving of the Kulluvi shawl, which made the document compilation successful. Department of Fashion Technology 3
PREFACE 4 Craft Research Document 2023
This documentation is about the diagnostic study of the craft of seobagh of kullu dist. Which is located in Himachal Pradesh on the banks of the beas river .Making Kullu shawls includes a journey starting from collecting raw wool from remote places of specific goats, sheep and yak. Keeping it as natural as possible, they make most of the shawls in natural wool colours. Amidst all the fancy products, these products are warm like a mother’s love in winter. Kulluvi shawls are woven by tapestry technique of weaving. A typical Kulluvi shawl has geometrical designs on both ends. They source these bright yarns from other vendors. The motifs on the shawl have bright colours. It emphasizes the shawl and makes it more appealing. Design inspiration is always taken from Hindu temples, Buddhist monasteries and mythology. Despite the ever increasing market of machine-made shawls, shawls made on the handloom with all the efforts of weavers will always be considered as an heritage art of India. Department of Fashion Technology 5
SPECIAL THANKS In the completion of the Kullu cluster study, we want to take a moment to express our deepest gratitude to our mentor Mr Aman Nagpal for the incredible mentorship you have provided. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for always being available and willingly sharing knowledge. Your guidance has made a lasting impression on us, and we are truly fortunate to have you as our mentor. 6 Craft Research Document 2023
DECLARATION This to verify that the following students of Bachelor of Fashion Technology of sem 5 of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra have successfully completed one week of craft documentation and study of particular craft in Kullu as a part of course curriculum. We certify that: • The work in the project is original, was completed by us, and was supervised by our mentor. • The details provided here are true andhave been reserved with NIFT Kangra in any format. Additionally, all outside suplied data, images, and text have theri credit given and are refrenced in refrences. GROUP MEMBERS: Amrit Gangaur Nikita Shreya Twinkle Department of Fashion Technology 7
TEAM Amrit Gangaur Nikita Shreya Twinkle 8 Craft Research Document 2023
ACKNOWLEDGMENT CONTENTS PREFACE SPECIAL THANKS INFRASTRUCTURE THE TEAM • Floor plan ABOUT KULLU ABOUT ARTISANS • Kullu population and literacy rate • Artisans database • Geography and climate GOVERNMENT SCHEMES METHODOLOGY • How to reach OBJECTIVE AND INSIGHTS SWOT ANALYSIS • Tourism BIBILIOGRAPHY • Culture and festivals, people • Language, costume, folk dance, religion ABOUT KULLU CRAFTS KULLU TEXTILE • Raw material • Tools • Motifs • Process • Product • Costing • Market Department of Fashion Technology 9
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ABOUT THE VALLEY Kullu, often known as the \"Valley of Gods,\" is a collection of stunning val- leys in the Himachal Pradesh region. Located at a height of 1230 metres, The majestic Himalayas and the Beas River are located on either side of Kullu. Rivers, apple orchards, towering Deodar jungles, and picturesque views of the mountains covered in snow have all drawn various feature film producers. The beautiful valley is also mentioned in epics like Ramayana, Mahabhara- ta and Vishnu Purana. It serves as a gateway to the scenic Kullu Valley, which extends northward to Rohtang Pass. Rivers, apple orchards, tow- ering Deodar jungles, and picturesique views of the mountains covered in snow have all drawn various feature film producers. Kullu is an agricultural trade center with a focus on hand-loom weaving, producing Kullu caps, shawls, handkerchiefs, and scarves. The surrounding area is forested and has a rich history, including medieval Rajput Rajas rule. Kullu is known for its Dussehra celebrations, where the epic Ramayana story is reenacted. 12 Craft Research Document 2023
Kullu Population and Literacy Rates: According to the 2011 census, Kullu district, which comprises Kullu town and the surrounding territories, has a population of about 437,474. It's important to note that the population could have grown since then. 437,474 80.14% Total Population Literacy Rate The literacy rate in the Kullu district of Himachal Pradesh, India, was rel- atively high when compared to the country as a whole as of my knowl- edge cutoff in September 2021. The percentage of people who can read and write clearly and fluently at the age of 7 is known as the literacy rate. The Kullu district had an 80.14% literacy rate as per the 2011 census. This indicates that the majority of people in Kullu are literate and can write. The literacy rate may have altered since then, though, as access to education tends to lead to an improvement in literacy rates over time. Department of Fashion Technology 13
SUBDIVISION LANDSCAPE Tehsil- 2 Valleys and Mountains Blocks- 1 Lush Greenery Towns- 2 Rivers and Waterfalls Total Villages- 64 AREA REGION CLIMATE Total 20,792 Hectares Summer - Around 20 to 30 degrees RIVERS Winter - Around 5 to 15 degrees Beas River 14 Craft Research Document 2023
GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE The Kullu district, on the west side of the beautiful Himalayas, is stretched along the banks of the River Beas and is situat- ed at an average elevation of 1,362 metres (4,469 feet). The main river stream Sarwari-Khud, which gets its name from \"Shiv-Baar- di,\" leads to the stunning Lug-Valley, which is next to Kullu Valley and is steeper and less travelled than Kullu Valley itself. Previ- ously, Shimla residents could travel to Kullu via the Siraj valley or the passes on the west that led to Jogindernagar and then Kangra. From the north and east, the Kullu district is bordered by the Lahaul and Spiti Valley; from the south, Shimla; from the west and south, the Mandi district; from the south-east, the Kinnaur district; and from the north-west, the Kangra district. The area covered by the Kullu District is roughly 5503 square kilometres. The Kullu Valley has three distinct yet endearing seasons each year: the summer, which lasts from March to June; the monsoon, or rainy season, which lasts from July to September; and the winter, which lasts from November to February. The summers are really nice and pleasurable, and the winters are extremely frigid with a lot of snowfall. It is a popular tourist destination for visitors from around the nation in the summer because the temperature rises to a maximum of 20 degrees Celsius and stays at a minimum of 18 degrees Celsius. Kullu experiences chilly, dry winters with minimum temperatures of 5 degrees Celsius and maximum temperatures of only 16 degrees Celsius. Since there is a lot of severe frost during this time, the months of December through February are exceedingly cold. Typically, snowfall happens in December and January. The lush, emerald-green foliage in the region is a result of the semi-tropical monsoon, which arrives in the valley in the month of July. 80 cm of rain falls on average. Department of Fashion Technology 15
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HOW TO GET THERE: By Road: Kullu is easily accessible by bus, vehicle, or taxi thanks to its good road con- nectivity. Here are a few typical routes You may travel to Kullu via bus from Delhi. Depending on the amount of traffic and the type of bus being used, the trip lasts 12 to 14 hours. As an alternative, you can drive the about 500-ki- lometer (mile) route from Delhi to Kullu, which takes about 10-12 hours. By Train: Joginder Nagar Railway Station, which has excellent connections to places like Delhi and Pathankot, is the closest significant railway station to Kullu. However, it is a 3-hour trip from Joginder Nagar, where the railway station is located, to Kullu. To get there, you would need to use a cab or bus. By Air: Bhuntar Airport, located around 10 kilometres from Kullu, is the closest air- port. From important Indian cities like Delhi or Mumbai, you may fly direct- ly to Bhuntar Airport. You may take a bus or a taxi from the airport to Kullu, which is about a 30-minute drive away. Department of Fashion Technology 17
\"Dev bhoomi himachal pradesh\" The mesmerizing tourist attraction of Kullu, often known as the \"Valley of Gods,\" is located in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. Kullu is well known for its stunning landscapes, clean rivers, and religious significance and draws tourists from all over the world. This essay explores the distinc- tive features of Kullu tourism, covering its pure environment, cultural his- tory, adventurous activities, and responsible tourism practices. Kullu is endowed with breathtaking natural beauty that mesmerises tourists. The gorgeous valley is surrounded by the towering Himalayan mountains and covered in apple orchards, dense deodar woods, and lush green meadows. With its crystal-clear waters, the Beas River, which flows through the valley, adds to its allure. The beauty of the landscape makes the area the perfect setting for rest, renewal, and discovery. Kullu's cultural legacy is just as appealing as its natural surroundings. Visitors may enjoy the colourful culture through numerous festivals, fairs, and rituals since the local residents actively uphold their rich traditions. 18 Craft Research Document 2023
The Kullu Dussehra celebration, which is celebrated with majesty and zeal, is the most well-known occasion. Beautifully decorated de- ities from nearby villages are transported to Kullu during this week- long festival in vibrant processions, providing tourists with a stun- ning sight. These holy sites exhibit outstanding architectural styles in addition to providing a look into the residents' spiritual practises. Kullu's delectable cuisine combines traditional Himachali fare with con- temporary elements. These holy sites exhibit outstanding architectural styles in ad- dition to providing a look into the residents' spiritual practises. Kullu's delectable cuisine combines traditional Himachali fare with con- temporary elements. Visitors can savour the regional cuisine in roadside dhabas or treat themselves to excellent meals in hotels and resorts. Ancient temples, each steeped in mythology and spirituality, are scat- tered across Kullu. One of the most important religious sites in the area is the temple to Lord Rama known as Raghunath. Bijli Mahadev, Hidimba Devi, and Jagannathi Devi Temples are a few other noteworthy temples. Department of Fashion Technology 19
CULTURE Culture is an ongoing process that develops over time. The location of the region, together with its history, mythology, and religion, all have an impact on it. Both the historical record and the various leg- endary stories that have long been present in this region have had an impact on Kullu. Furthermore, in the years after independence, the region got its first motorable road. The people's extended isolation from the outside world has aided in the development of their unique culture. As a result, we discover that Kullu's culture is distinctive in a variety of ways. The culture of the Kullu region is a lively tapestry woven with en- during traditions and a wealth of folklore, contributing significantly to the region's identity. The festivals, rituals, and way of life of the inhabitants exhibit their deep delight in maintaining their cultural heritage. 20 Craft Research Document 2023
The Kullu Dussehra festival, which is observed with much fanfare and spectacle, exemplifies the coexistence of modern traditions and legend. The colourful Himachali caps and beautifully patterned shawls that make up Kullu's traditional clothing add to the area's unique culture. The mesmerising rhythms and traditional folk per- formances that reverberate through the valley during festivals and festive occasions are an integral part of Kullu's culture. The experience of immersing oneself in the culture is further en- hanced by the friendliness and kindness of the inhabitants. The cul- ture of the Kullu region is a lively tapestry woven with enduring traditions and a wealth of folklore, contributing significantly to the region's identity. The festivals, rituals, and way of life of the inhabitants exhibit their deep delight in maintaining their cultural heritage. The Kullu Dussehra festival, which is observed with much fanfare and spec- tacle, exemplifies the coexistence of modern traditions and legend. Department of Fashion Technology 21
ckadk eqYd fgekpy!! 22 Craft Research Document 2023
HISTORY Kullu is known as the “Kulant Peeth” means last inhabitable land. Kullu was also known as the “Land of Gandharva”. The old name of Kullu was “Kullut” and it was from the time of The Ramayana and The Mahabharata. Barahmir discusses the Kalut tribe in Barihat Sahinta, who lived in the Beas valley. Parvateshwar, the chief, engaged in battle with Arjuna and Kishem Dhurti died in the Mahabharata War. The name \"Kullu\" was created by eliminating the letter \"T\" and adding \"L\" to the word \"Kalut.\" Kullu's history may be traced back to 2000 years. It is believed that the word \"kullu\" came from the word \"kuluta,\" which was discovered writ- ten on a coin from the first century AD. The name \"Virayasa,\" which appears on the coin as \"Virayasa, the king of Kuluta,\" is the first ruler to be mentioned in historical records. The current kullu, which is located 117 miles to the northeast of Jalandhar, is thought to have been referred to as Kiu-lu by the Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang. The tract has also been referred to as \"the end of the habitable world\" or \"the territory that marks the end of Kula,\" which is the socio-religious system of the mainland. Kullu and Lahaul Spiti were divided in 1960 because Lahaul Spiti was considered to be a separate district. Kullu did not become a district until 1963, and it was only in 1966 that it joined Himachal Pradesh. The kullu valley is mentioned in a number of legendary texts, including the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, and others, which supports the idea that the region is very old. Te Valley is regarded as the birthplace of all humans in Hindu mythology. The progenitor of humanity, Manu, is claimed to have built his ark on a hillside and settled there after the great flood. Mana- li is now known as \"Manu-Alaya,\" which refers to Manu's house. As one of Vishnu's reincarnations, Parshuram is thought to have lived in the valley, and the Parshuram Temple in Nirmand is thought to be a living testament to this legendary connection. Department of Fashion Technology 23
The Kullu kingdom, founded by Behangamani Pal in the first century A.D., overthrew the Thakurs and established the first ruling dynasty. The Pal kings ruled until A.D. 1450, with Raja Kelas Pal as the last ruler. A 50-year break may have allowed Thakurs and Ranas to capture power. Sidh Singh, the first Singh king, became the Raja of Kullu in A.D. 1500. The royal family respects Hidimba as their grandmother and patron-de- ity. Raja Jagat Singh incorporated Lag into the kingdom, and the original capital was Jagatsukh. The capital was later transferred to Nagar and Sultanpur by Raja Visudh Pal. Around 1800, the Mughal empire's authority declined, leading to Kullu paying tribute to the Gorkhas and Sansar Chand. In 1839, the Sikhs captured Kullu state, ceding it to the British in 1846. Kullu became part of Kangra district, under an Assistant Commissioner. Thakar Singh was granted sovereign powers, and Gyan Singh was given the title of Rai in 1852. Lahaul and Spiti region was part of Kullu tehsil until 1960, then kullu became district of Himachal Pradesh on November 1, 1966. Kullu's climate, sheltered by the Himalayas, led to the development of handloom weaving in the region. Originally from Kinnaur, it evolved to Kullu, where residents perfect their skills to maintain ancestors' traditions. The region's harsh winters necessitate wool weaving due to its favorable climate for raising sheep and goats. Most homes have pit looms, and locals weave for personal consumption and sale. Handloom weaving is the main economy in Himachal Pradesh, with around 20,000 weavers in Kullu district operating independently and selling their goods to cooperative groups. 24 Craft Research Document 2023
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PEOPLE The inhabitants of Kullu have always been simple, devout, and deeply rooted in their customary values. They are renowned for being trust- worthy and welcoming. However, they are a lively group. They do, in fact, make light of life in their daily activities as well as at feasts and festivals.The people of Kullu, Himachal Pradesh, love flowers a lot. They also adore wearing bright clothes. Women adore wearing ostenta- tious and vibrant jewellery. They excel in singing and dancing as well. Before, their only sources of income were agriculture and horticul- ture. However, there has been a significant change in that as a result of the development of education and increasing contact with the out- side world. 26 Craft Research Document 2023
FESTIVALS The numerous feasts and festivals held throughout the year in Kullu are a vivid reflection of how vibrant the town is. The most significant of them all is Dussehra, which commemorates good triumphing over evil. The Pipal Jatra, or Spring Festival, comes in at number two. Other than these two, the Kullu Valley is home to numerous oth- er festivals that are equally well-attended. Shamshi Virshu, one of them, is observed in the village of Khokan on April 13th, the first day of Baisakh. It ushers in the New Year while containing a hint of spirituality. The Goddess is removed from the temple prior to the start of the devotion. Department of Fashion Technology 27
\" vkS th egkjkt!! \" LANGUAGE 28 Craft Research Document 2023 Despite Hindi being Kullu's official language, the majority of the population speaks Kulvi, also known as Kullu. This language is a variation of people in the lower Himalayas who speak a dialect of Western Pahari. Due to frequent contact with Punjabi speakers, Kullu Pahari has its own unique characteristics and is influenced by Punjabi. \" D;k yfxjk cank! \" COSTUME Because Kullu has a cold climatic condition, warm clothing is a part of every- day attire for the people of this region. Traditionally men in Kullu wear paja- ma and kurta. They also use a distinctive headgear, popularly known as Kullu cap. Women also use a headdress known as Dhatu and Thilu. Shawls known as patto are also another integral part of their dress.
RELIGION Most Kullu residents are Hindus. However, they have also been successful in making their distinction here. They worship diverse tribal Gods and Goddess- es in addition to pan-Indian deities and ancient sages. This fact is indicated by the Hadimba/Hiramba Temple in the Valley. \" t; nsok!! \" DANCE Folk dancing is a fundamental aspect of Kullu society. These dances portray not just the inhabitants' rich cultural past but also their dynamic way of life and their battle to survive in difficult circumstances. Without them, no fair or celebration is judged complete. Some of these dances, nevertheless, are only for females. A few of these dances are Charasay-Tarasay (also known as Bir- shu-Nirshu), Lalharhi, and Kahika. On the other hand, there are dances that are only for men, like Bandhu, Horn Dance, Deo Khel, and Hulki Dance. Only the Natti dances demand that both genders take part. \" vkS lktuk] dqYyw vkyh 'kky yk;hns \" Department of Fashion Technology 29
CRAFTS OF KULLU 30 Craft Research Document 2023
Crafts of Kullu&Manali showcase the talented artists and inventive creativity of the area's original population. The stunning works of craft are recognized on a global scale for upholding the traditional ancestral and cultural history of the highland region of Kullu and Manali. The handloom and handicraft sectors of the Kullu region's economy are its foundation. The native craftsmen of Kullu, endowed with enormous ability, learned the trade of weaving unique handloom and handicraft goods from their ancestors. The talented weavers in the area are proficient at producing vibrant and eye-catching traditional clothing such as long overcoats, shawls, mufflers, woolen caps, and pattu The handloom products made in the Kullu region have an appealing appearance thanks to the lovely combination of vivid colors and exquisite weaving pattern. The artisans of Kullu Valley preserve the rich heritage of handlooms and handicrafts. There is a vast variety of beautiful hand- looms and handicraft products in district Kullu. Department of Fashion Technology 31
METAL CRAFT Metalwork in Kullu includes creating decorative and utilitarian items from brass, copper, and silver.A vast variety of goods, including tableware, jew- ellery, and religious artefacts, are expertly created by local The talented craftspeople of Kullu have perfected their technique over many generations, producing a wide variety of metal goods that capture the region's creative del- icacy and traditional sensitivities.One of the most notable features of Kullu's metalwork is the creation of magnificent cookware and utensils from brass and copper. WODDEN WORK Another well-known art in the area is wood carving. Various wood- en products, such as decorative goods, furniture, and household items, are decorated with exquisite designs by skilled artists. Local deities, mythi- cal beings, and sceneries from nature are frequently portrayed in the carv- ings.In the scenic Kullu Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India, the wood- en crafts of Kullu are a tribute to the area's rich creative history and expert craftsmanship. The woodworkers of Kullu have mastered the tech- nique, producing a broad variety of beautiful and useful wooden crafts. 32 Craft Research Document 2023
KILTA OF KULLU This unique piece of handicraft is created from bamboo cane. 'Nargal', an indigenous variety of bamboo found in Kullu, makes up the major- ity of this. It is a unique kind of basket that may be utilised in a number of ways. Initially, nargal is divided into strips and then woven together. Typically, this basket comes in a wide range of sizes and styles. As was already said, this is a multipurpose basket that may be used to carry a va- riety of objects, including food, fuel, and animal waste. This basket has a rope attached to it, and the rope is used to carry the basket on the back. PULLAN OF KULLU This particular style of footwear is manufactured from fibres that come from a bush in the kullu district. Goat hair is used for the show's front sec- tion. This area of the shoe is exquisitely embellished with vibrant threads. The fibre that can be found in the wild is used to make the soles of the shoes. In the Kullu region's Banjar Valley, pullans are typically produced. This type of footwear is offered in a variety of sizes, and the locals regard this footwear as a cosy winter shoe. Department of Fashion Technology 33
HANDLOO \"WEA 34 Craft Research Document 2023
OM CRAFT VING\" Department of Fashion Technology 35
The beautiful valley of Kullu, which is located in the Himachal Pradesh state of India, is well known for its thriving culture and extensive histo- ry. Kullu handcraft weaving is one of the most exquisite and valued kinds of art to be found here. This traditional craft, which has been handed down through the years, displays the knowledge and originality of the regional artisans. The weavers expertly craft magnificent works of art, such as shawls, stoles, and carpets, that are not only visually alluring but also capture the soul of the valley's natural beauty. They do this by combin- ing age-old traditions with contemporary inventions. Kullu weaving is an intricate skill that calls for a lot of effort and close attention to detail. In Kullu, weaving has traditionally been done on handlooms. High-quality natural fibres like sheep wool and angora wool are used to precisely create these items by skilled artisans, many of whom come from families with a long history of weaving. Because the wool was obtained locally, the craft is environmentally friendly and sustainable. The distinctive patterns and themes of Kullu weaving, which are meant to represent the natural beauty of the valley, are among its distinguishing features. These patterns frequently take their cues from the local flora and wildlife, which transforms each design into a work of art that narrates the history of the area. 36 Craft Research Document 2023
The weaving process takes a long time and requires a great deal of expertise and patience. The craftsmen put forth a lot of effort manually preparing the loom, choosing the colors, and weaving the threads together. To guarantee that the finished product lives up to the high standards of excellence for which Kullu weaving is renowned, they devote meticulous attention to every little detail. The popularity of Kullu weaving extends far beyond the local communities. Tourists and art enthusiasts from around the world are captivated by the beauty and craftsmanship of these textiles. Owning a Kullu shawl or stole has become a symbol of pride and a cherished souvenir for visitors to the valley. Kullu weaving not only sustains the local economy but also serves as a means of preserving the cultural identity and heritage of the region. It rep- resents the passion, creativity, and dedication of the weavers, who continue to keep this remarkable craft alive for generations to come. Department of Fashion Technology 37
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Kullu textiles are known for their rich colors, distinctive designs, and skilled weaving tech- niques. The artisans of Kullu employ traditional handloom methods passed down through generations, using locally sourced materials such as sheep and yak wool. The textiles showcase a harmonious blend of geometric patterns, intricate motifs, and bold color combinations, reflecting the cultural heritage and natural beauty of the region. Kullu textiles not only serve as functional garments but also as exquisite pieces of art that symbolize the artistic prowess and cultural identity of the weaving community. Whether it's the famous Kullu shawls, stoles, or jackets, each textile crafted in Kullu carries the essence of the region's rich heritage and continues to captivate people with its beauty and craftsmanship. Department of Fashion Technology 39
RAW MATERIAL The Himalayan region's pure sheep wool is one of the main raw materials used by Kullu weavers. This wool is highly valued for its warmth, softness, and toughness, making it the perfect material for designing warm, comfortable fabrics that can resist the area's chilly temperature. Shearing is often done in the summer to provide the weaving workshops with a new supply of raw wool. In addition to sheep wool, Kullu weavers also incorporate other natural fibers, such as Angora and Pashmina, to add a touch of luxury and finesse to their cre- ations. These fibers are known for their exceptional softness and lightweight feel, making them perfect for producing elegant shawls that are cherished by both locals and tourists alike 40 Craft Research Document 2023
Additionally, the artists frequently obtain their colors from plants, miner- als, and vegetables, which improves the fabrics' traditional appeal. These eco-friendly dyes not only produce a stunning array of colors but also reflect the weavers' commitment to preserving their environment and heritage. In recent years, Kullu weavers have embraced a modern twist on their tra- ditional craft by incorporating artificial wool as a raw material in their cre- ations. While natural wool remains an integral part of their heritage, arti- ficial wool, also known as synthetic or acrylic yarn, has found its place in the weavers' workshops, offering new opportunities and design possibilities. Department of Fashion Technology 41
Artificial wool, often derived from petrochemicals, is prized for its versa- tility and affordability. It comes in a wide range of vibrant colors, allowing the weavers to experiment and create bold, eye-catching patterns that appeal to contemporary tastes. Moreover, artificial wool offers excellent durability, making it a suitable choice for producing long-lasting textiles that can with- stand everyday use and retain their shape over time. Additionally, the use of artificial wool allows the weavers to cater to a broader audience, as it offers a cost-effective alternative to natural fibers like Pashmina and Angora. This accessibility has expanded the market for Kullu textiles, enabling them to reach customers beyond the region's borders and further promoting the age- old craft. Together with their artistic talent, Kullu weavers' dedication to using high-quality, environmentally sensitive raw materials produces textiles that are not only beautiful to look at but also accurately reflect the region's rich cultural legacy. Their masterpieces are still recognised as classic examples of art and serve as a monument to the everlasting technique of weaving. 42 Craft Research Document 2023
TOOLS Department of Fashion Technology 43
SPINNING OF YARN 1. Hand carders: Hand-carders are a couple of wooden paddles with wire faces. The wire teeth are either coarse or fine. The coarse teeth are for carding different varieties of coarse wools. The fine teeth are for checking cotton and gentler strands like angora. 2. Spindle: The spindle is known as Takli. Takli spinning is also known as drop spindle spinning. It is the traditional method of hand spin- ning. It involves twirling the spindle with the help of hands and letting it create twists freely. It is a straight spike-like tool. It helps spin the fibre from raw wool. It makes fibres to align the individual fibres easier to spin. It is made of wood. 3. Koru: Koru is a bowl-shaped tool, made of wood. It provides weight and momentum to Takli to spin better and faster during the spin- ning of the yarn. 4. Distaff: A distaff is a tool used in hand spinning to hold unspun fibres during spinning. It is a vertical rod or staff that holds the fibre supply. The spinner pulls fibres from the distaff while spinning with the spindle. The spinner uses the distaff to keep the unspun fibres in order and easily accessible while spinning. 5.Charkha: Charkha is also known as the spinning wheel. It is used for spinning thread from fibers which work by rotating a spinning wheel by hand. It consists of a small, horizontal wheel mounted on an axle and a small flyer (a rotating part that twists the fi- bers into yarn). The charkha is capable of producing fine yarn suitable for weaving, knitting, or other textile applications. The modern adaption of traditional charkha is power charkha which is powered by a small electric motor to increase its speed it. 44 Craft Research Document 2023
WEAVING 1. Looms: 45 Handlooms are the primary tools used for weaving in Kullu. Traditional Kullu shawls, stoles, and other textiles are woven into these looms. The weavers sit at the loom and work the threads to create the fabric. These are some basic parts of handlooms. 2. Shuttles: Shuttles are used to pass the weft threads through the warp threads during the weaving process. They hold the weft yarn and help the weaver to interlace it with the warp yarn. 3. Bobbins: Bobbins are small spools on which weft threads are wound and inserted into the shuttle for ease of weaving. 4. Comb Or Reed Or Beater: The comb or reed is used to space the warp threads evenly and compactly, ensuring that the weave is tight and uniform. 5. Heddles: Heddles are small wire or metal loops through which the warp threads pass. They are attached to shafts or frames and help create the shed (an opening) through which the shuttle passes during weaving. 6. Treadles: Treadles are foot-operated pedals that control the raising and lowering of the shafts or frames. They help create the shed through which the shuttle passes. 7. Shafts or Frames: Shafts or frames hold a group of heddles. They are raised or lowered by pressing the corresponding treadles, creating differ- ent shed patterns for weaving intricate designs. Department of Fashion Technology
FINISHING 1. Scissors: Scissors are used to cut the extra fibres to make the fabric look neat and clean during finishing. 2. Sewing Thread Clipper: A sewing thread clipper, also known as thread snips or thread cutters, is a small, handheld tool used by sewers and crafters to quickly and neatly cut threads while working on sewing projects. 46 Craft Research Document 2023
MOTIFS & COLOR STORY : • Kulli shawls have descended from kinnauri shawls their motifs and colors also find inspiration from kinnauri shawls. Pashmina wool, angora wool and today these pure varieties are being intermixed and mixed with syn- thetic fibers as well • The field of the shawl was and is woven in 2/2 twill weave and the designs and motifs are woven with coloured acrylic yarn in tapestry technique or extra weft technique. • The kulluvi motifs derive inspiration from their surroundings- the flora and fauna, Motifs were named according to their shapes. Available in a variety of magnificent colors, these shawls seem to compete with nature in their ability to draw attention. • The base colours of these shawls are the natural wool shades of beige, brown, white, cream & grey, while commercial colors like maroon and black have immense popularity among their patrons. • Coming to patterns, these shawls are defined by their geometric styles on borders, in eye-catching colours, while some common motifs include the swastika, trishul, cross (chatham or chasam) and Akhrot, Kanghu etc. • With the advent of commercialization, many shawls are being woven with a combination of Kullu and Kinnauri motifs. • The weavers and master weavers who design the shawls take inspiration from the traditional shawls and bring newness to them. Department of Fashion Technology 47
` PRODUCTS 1. Kullu Shawls: Kullu shawls feature geometric patterns, but after bhushe- hari artisans from Rampur moved, woven floral patterns be- gan appearing. These patterns can cover the entire surface or borders, using traditional vivid colors like red, yellow, magen- ta pink, and green. However, due to rising consumer demand, these vibrant colors are being replaced by pastel counterparts. 2. Loi: It is a light woollen shawl made for men, and it is often sim- ple or has a thin border at the ends. Locals refer to loi as chaddar since it is typically larger than a typical Kullu shawl. 3. Kullu Caps The Kullu topi, a customary hat in the Kullvi region, is a cru- cial component of the Kullvi man's costume. It features a flat top and spherical shape, with a colorful border on the front and a back made of local woollen yarn and occasionally cot- ton or other light materials. The cap is woven separately on tiny looms, adding to the unique and colorful Kullu man's costume. 48 Craft Research Document 2023
4. Pattoo: Kullu district women wear traditional attire with pattoos, draped like sarees, fastened with boomani silver brooch- es. The tattoo is fastened around the waist using gach- chi belt-style fabric. This traditional attire uses local wool and is created and purchased by the local population. 5. Thobi: An item of flooring that is made from goat hair. It is weaved in two halves of equal width, which are afterwards stitched togeth- er in the middle. Despite having a rough feel, it is warm. Thobi typically comes in plain or in black and grey checks or bands. 6. Gudma: A delicate but substantial blanket known as gudma is woven specifically in the Kullu valley. Long fibre Byang wool is used to make it. The same size as Numdhas, Gudmas are woven from natural wool colours and completed with crimson or black ac- cents. Department of Fashion Technology 49
PROCESS 50 Craft Research Document 2023
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