Pauza Magazine

PauzaThe Peace Corps Macedonia Magazine Summer 2014YMLP Model UN National Spelling BeeThe Accidental Hiking the Globetrotter Frog PondInternational Lunch

Happenings July August SeptemberJuly 1 - Aug 1 1Stip Cultural Labor Day Summer July 1 - Aug 24 2 US Holiday Bit Fest Ilinden Uprising 8 Bitola 4 Day Independence Day Macedonian Indpendence Day 2-9 American Camp GLOW 14 MAK 19’s Arrive 1-6Blues and Soul Festival 15 Skopje 11-13 13 - 15 PST Orientation Galicnik Wedding COS Conference Week 19 July 12 - Aug 20 MAK 17’sOhrid Summer Festival PST Begins 17 - 20 Planning an event? 23 Pivo Fest Tell Pauza at: Autumnal Equinox Prilep [email protected] Fall Begins 28-30 24 - 26Ramazan Bajram Rosh Hashana Jewish Holiday

Pauza Life and Times in Peace Corps Macedoniapauza staff editorial committeeNick Motwani, managing editor Goce Spasov, PC Safety & SecurityKelly Friedman, copy editor Kathleen Corey, PC Country DirectorLakesh Abreu, copy editor Janeen Dorsch, Program & Training OfficerNancy Glines, layout & design

contents 06 Message from the Editor 07 Pauza Open Call!!!cultural experiences08 Intercultural Lunch in Prilep Zack Levin-Epstein10 A Hike with Stojan, Or Everything is Tea and I’m a Woman Ariane Williams12 Hiking Frog Pond Alex Dunn14 Showing Family Around Macedonia Scott Johnson16 The Accidental Globetrotter or How I Circled the Globe Without Meaning To!18 Nancy Glines 13 miles at a time Nick Motwaniarts & entertainment20 From the Brain of Emily Nagle Emily Naglepcv projects22 Macedonian Model United Nations Laura Barbe23 National Spelling Bee Ariane Williams24 YMLP Summer Camp Scott Johnsonfun and games26 Worth 1,000 words



Message from the Editor...The summer is finally here, butwith it brings the countdown tothe MAK17’s final five monthshere in Macedonia. It’s hard tobelieve that we came 22 monthsago and in a few short weeks wewill have our COS conference.But that is what makes this lastsummer even more special. Wewill have the chance to explorethis awesome country. We willaccept any invitation to visit ourfellow volunteers and we will notlet any festival pass us up. Thisis the time to bond with our fellowMK16s, MK17s and MK18s evenmore than before and I hope youwill make the most of it.Pozdrav,Nick Motwani, Managing EditorMake these summer months the mostmemorable of your Peace Corps service! editorial policy This publication, which bears the name of Peace Corps Macedonia and the Peace Corps logo, must adhere to certain editorial guidelines. These guidelines require that all content in this magazine be in good taste, politically neutral and culturally sensitive. Content should not include profanity, advocate a specific reli- gious belief, be insulting or slanderous, compromise the safety and security of any Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV), nor give the impression that the author is writing on behalf of Peace Corps or the United States government. To ensure that these guidelines are met, a committee made up of PCVs, Peace Corps Staff and Host Country Nationals (HCNs) will review articles for content. submissions All PCVs and Peace Corps staff are welcome to submit articles to be published in Pauza. If you are inter- ested in writing an article, please contact a member of the editorial staff. Submission deadlines will be announced. All submissions may be sent to [email protected]. Articles may be edited for length and content. cover photo: “Arrows to Anywhere” Prilep, MK By Nick Motwani

Open Call for PauzaAre you a MAK 18 and interested in journalism?? Are you creativeand enjoy experimenting with publishing software?? Do you enjoyreading fun stories from your fellow volunteers?? Then Pauza is right for you!We are looking for the next Pauza team to take over Peace CorpsMacedonia’s finest publication. There are four positions available:one managing editor, two copy editors and one layout editor. The managaing editor oversees the whole process, distributes ar- ticles to the copy editors, reviews the final draft before being pub- lished and handles all communication. The copy editors read and edit all the articles for length, content and errors. They also provide feedback on articles and topics.The layout editor adds the articles into the publication software and formats the publication. Bring your creativity hats!! If you are interested, send an email [email protected] with the position you are interested in and why by Friday August 1st.

cultural experiences Intercultural Lunch in Prilep Zack Levin-Epstein - MAK 17Quesadillas, sushi, and Thai food – these are foods we usually only dream about here as PCVs in Macedonia – and not ones we actually consume here. So when I read about the chance to participate in the intercultural lunch in Prilep and make a unique dish from my heritage, I signed up as fast as I could. Coming from a Jewish family, potato latkes are a staple during Hanukkah and it was a no-brainer that I would prepare them for the Macedonians attending the event. However, Mak 18 Kelly Rappe posted on Facebook be- fore I had the chance that she would be pre- paring the latkes. Luckily, she allowed me to make them with her. So, with food on my mind (and hopefully soon enough in my stomach), I hopped on a bus and took my first trip to Prilep. I had read about the hiking trails in Prilep, so when I got there I went out to experience them for the first time with Mak 18 Emily Nagle before we would be cooking the latkes. Naturally, I got myself stuck on some huge rock on a trail. While being stuck, I began thinking about that James Franco movie where he has to cut off some part of his body (I never actually saw it) and began scaring myself over what in reality was about a 5 foot drop. My fear was in vain though, be- cause Emily came to my rescue after a short while so we could go back down the trail. After we got back from the run, I checked my phone to see that my co-chef Kelly had called a bunch of times and had already peeled and shredded the potatoes, which meant she was ready to fry them. I called a taxi, and had her wait for me so I could at least take some part in the cooking of our specialty. For any of those who have dared to make latkes, they know that keeping the latkes together is the most troublesome part. The mixture has to be just right, not with too much egg (moisture), but not without any at all. Right off the bat, I messed up the first latke -- it didn’t stay together (not enough moisture). Kelly took over and started making perfect latkes, and completed the frying like a true bube (Yiddish for grandma). Instead, I got stuck frying bacon (see: anti-kosher) for the BLT’s being prepared by Mak 18 Jake next to the frying potato latkes. The hosts in Prilep (Nick, Nick, and Chris) did an amazing job organizing everything, ensuring a non- stop line at our buffet of cross-cultural foods. Count- less times, I have observed Macedonians unwilling to try new types of foods, however this was not one of them. They were like hawks waiting for differ- ent foods to be unveiled. They tried everything they could get their hands on from French crepes to Nick’s sushi. At the end, only scraps were left – a testament to the amazing cooks we have here in Peace Corps Macedonia... and to their hungry stomachs during the event.8 – Pauza Magazine

cultural experiences Summer 2014 – 9

cultural experiencesA Hike with Stojan, Or Everything is Tea and I’m a WomanLast spring, I missed the van home from one of my schools. When I arrived, sweaty and sunburnt, I explained to my host parents that I’d had to walk.  “What?” said Stojan, startled out of his customary reserve. “You walked from Rakitetz in an hour?”I confirmed that I had.“But that’s over seven kilometers.”I allowed that it might be.“But you’re a woman.”I acknowledged that this was the case.“I don’t believe it.”I assured him that not only had I walked from Rakitetz, I was also most definitely a woman.Ever since, he nursed a fascination with my extraordinary powers of ambulation, and a desire to see them in ac-tion. One of the mountains overlooking our village is topped with a group of radio and weather towers (“bandieri”in Macedonian. Since they weren’t visible the first time I heard about them, I spent about a month thinking that themountains were frequented by bandits).Stojan often picked herbs that grew lower on the mountain. He proposed that we hike to the top.“We’ll see,” he said. “It’s a tough hike. We’ll see if you can do it. As a woman.”We didn’t get around to our hike for more than a year. Stojan started to imply that this was by design. I protestedthat it just never seemed like the right time.“We’ll see,” he muttered darkly.Finally, two weeks ago, I set my alarm for 9:30 am(on a Saturday--BLASPHEMY), packed a water bottle and sun-screen, and presented myself for hiking.“It’s two hours to the top, but we’ll go as far as you can,” Stojan said. I resolved to make it to the top or die.We set out from the village. Stojan proved to be a very restful hiking companion. All he identified were the varioustypes of tea.“That’s tea,” he said, pointing to small white flowers. “What kind?” I asked.“Chamomile.” Their lovely scent surrounded us. I yawned.Later in the foothills, tiny purple flowers: “That’s tea.” “What kind?” “Мајчина душица [thyme].”“Hey, doesn’t that mean ‘mother’s soul’? Why is that?”“How should I know?” Later: “That’s tea.” “What kind?”“I don’t know. It doesn’t have a name. Tea.”10 – Pauza Magazine

cultural experiences Ariane Williams MAK17At the edge of the woods, we navigated chest-high patch of greenery. Although I was wearing long pants, I felt asharp sting on my calf. Then another and another.“Something is hurting me,” I said.“Nettles,” said Stojan, and forged ahead to beat them aside with his umbrella.“They stung me through my pants,” I said, aggrieved.  “They’re good for the blood,” said Stojan. “As tea.”Massive, magnificent trees with smooth pale bark grew low on themountainside. I marveled.“Бука,” said Stojan. Beech, I found out later. “With them, peoplemake—“ “Tea?” “Furniture.”Further up we found other types of trees, most of which I could notidentify by name if my life depended on it, except perhaps if they weresawn up and made into floors. There was one, though, that I knew.“Даб,” said Stojan.“I know that one!” I exclaimed. “<Oak>! I know that from beer!”Stojan gave me an old-fashioned look.“You know, Golden Oak?” I persisted.“It’s very good,” said Stojan severely, “for tea.”By the time we made it to the top, Stojan had pointed out mushrooms,sorrel, wild garlic, and of course many, many kinds of tea, as well as aplant called “lepenka” that twined around the ankles of his wool pantsand stuck there. I made a game of trying to step on the ends.The radio towers were clustered in a clearing at the top, incongruouslypark like after the dense forest. The caretaker (one of three, who droveup the other side of the mountain to trade off every five days) came outto greet us.“Hello!” he said. “I’m Stojan.” The Stojans already knew each other. I gave my name, but Stojan 1 jumped in withthe necessary explanation.“She’s the American. She’s staying with us. And she walked all the way up here. She even did better than me!“she’s a woman!”And,” he added with the air of one imparting remarkable intelligence, Summer 2014 – 11

Hikingcultural experiences Frog Pond Alex Dunn - MAK 17This little tale begins on a Thursday evening. Sam Cicero and I found our way to the assembly point for the Kumanovo Hiking Club and caught a bus to the small town of Zhabljak, a part of Durmi- tor National Park in Montenegro. Along the way we took a glorious morning pauza while passingthrough the Tara River Gorge -- the deepest river canyon in Europe. The sun was cresting the easternwall of the gorge while the morning birds sang and danced in the light breeze. It was a brilliant welcometo a beautiful country after a long and stuffy overnight bus ride.Nary an hour later, we pulled into the car-camp where we would be staying for the weekend. The ownergreeted us with normal, yet always refreshing Balkan hospitality. With rakija in our bellies, and little else todo for the day (we arrived a day prior to the departure of the hike), we set up our tent and went for a walkin the woods. Among the many treasures we found there were some old abandoned cabins presumablyrented out to tourists in years past, and more recently used as the setting for every horror movie you’veever seen. We also tramped around a marshy frog pond, found a pizza restaurant (in town), and visitedthe astoundingly beautiful Crno Jezero -- a place worthy of your google search any day.As we began to make the climb back to our camp, which lay over a forested ridge to the south of the lake,things began to look a little less familiar than one would hope. Somewhere we had taken a wrong turnand found ourselves far from anywhere. A series of bad decisions later, we finally made a good decisionthat brought us back onto the return path. We arrived back at camp just in time to catch the setting of thesun, before turning in for the night.The next day began with an early start, as seemingly all good days do. We were on the bus at six and, af-ter a short delay, took our twenty-minute ride to the trailhead and got started. Our group was about thirty,with people of all ages and hiking abilities. The trail itself was fairly easy at some points, while at othersbecame quite demanding. Though fortunately there were never any points where any kind of technicalmountain climbing skills became necessary.We hiked westward along a ridge north of the black lake towards a handful of intimidating, still-snowy peaks. The initial climb was steep, though covered by the shade of the forest. The morning sun had not yet warmed the air and a cool breeze kept us refreshed. We reached the tree line after only forty-five minutes, where we took our first break. After that we continued westward and upward, over rocks and dirt, through the first narrow valley between peaks and into a broader, greener valley populated by a pair of lonely farm- ers, a couple dozen sheep, and four horses. Here we took another break, then continued in a north-westerly direction after stopping at the only mountain lake we would find to refill water supplies. Two steep ascents later we got our first glimpses of the surrounding coun-tryside, having cleared the confines of the lower valleys. Near the base of the peak that was our ultimategoal, we came across a deep, broad cave. The bottom of the cave was covered with half-melted, dirtysnow and ice. As we took a break for lunch, some of the more intrepid among us took hold of a length of12 – Pauza Magazine

rope and descended down, over the snow, into the cultural experiencesdepths of the cave. At the bottom were a number ofbeautiful, cloudy-white stalagmites and stalactites, consist primarily of the twin thoughts of “everythinggrown from the moisture of the cave. Looking back hurts” and “almost there”. Once we reached thetowards the entrance there was only a wall of snow bottom we collected as a group and waited for theand ice, a rope, and the brightness of the daylight bus. Shortly after eight in the evening we returnedstreaming in through a small opening fifty meters to camp.above. The day had been long and the hiking had beenAfter lunch we began trekking southward across hard, but the atmosphere was celebratory. Thata landscape that was now mostly snow and rock. evening we sat down to a well-deserved meal ofWe were varyingly hot or cold, as the sun, which lamb, potatoes, and bread. The wine and rakijahad arrived at the center of the sky, was concealed began to flow, but these Americans had done theirand revealed again and again by the intermittent day’s work. We said our goodbyes and returned tocloud cover. We came at last to the entrance of our tent. Defeated in body yet sound in spirit, wea valley flanked by mountain peaks on all sides settled into our sleeping bags and slept the sleepcovered in slippery, wet snow. Here, a little tired of kings. The next morning the sun shown clearand a lot cold, we found that there was no longer through the eastern sky yet again while a mistinessa path for us to take. We could have stumbled andcrawled on hands and knees up the snowy moun- hung over the surrounding country-tainsides, but that would only have delayed the side. We packed our tent and collect-inevitability of our return. The summit was too far ed our things and stepped sleepilyand the snow was too deep. We snapped our group onto the bus to return to Kumanovo.photo and turned back toward the east.The return journey was much the same, exceptthe snow cover nearer to the top gave us an un-expected choice. Rather than returning along theroundabout way we had come, the snow present-ed a direct and unobstructed, if challengingly steeproute. The dexterous and agile of the group foundsliding down the mountainside more fun, easier onthe body, and ultimately faster. The rest of us foundfalling down the mountainside less fun and bruise-ier on the body, but will concede that it was faster.We reached the sheep farm in the center of thebroad valley as the sun was beginning to descendbehind the western peaks. Our group had sepa-rated some over the rough and varying terrain, sowe stopped here to regroup briefly and prepareourselves for the last push down the mountain. Mymemories of the last hour and a half of the hike Summer 2014 – 13

cultural experiences ShowSincgoFttaJmoihlynsAornou- nMdAMKa1ce7doniaThey were grateful for the cool weather and the possibility of vegetables on a menu. I was grateful to have visitors. My Aunt Keiko and Uncle Mel had just arrived in Macedonia at the end of May after spending the past four weeks exploring Central Asia (think the ’stan countries of the former SovietUnion: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan).“It was very hot,” my uncle succinctly summed up their experience the past month. “The food was prettymuch all the same from country to country. Lots of grilled meats. Mutton. Not a lot of vegetables.” Theyhad flown in from Istanbul. I did my best to give them a crash course in Macedonian culture and history aswe left the airport headed toward Skopje in a taxi.“We’ve seen so many mosques and monasteries these past few weeks. I think I’m museumed out,” myuncle added.As excited as I was to have visitors for the first time since being sworn in as a Peace Corps volunteerin Macedonia nearly a year and a half ago, I was, admittedly, unsure of what to show them during theirseven-day stay in the country.My aunt and uncle, who call Ellensburg, Wash. home, are not unaccustomed to traveling. They are moreoften than not trekking around the globe from one exotic adventure to the next. My uncle, the self de-scribed black sheep of the family on my mother’s side, is a retired U.S. Foreign Service officer as well asa returned Peace Corps volunteer (he was a business development volunteer in Crimea region of Ukrainein the early 2000s). He met his wife while at his post in Tokyo in the early 90s. She worked for the embas-sy, and says she probably traveled more than he did before they married.Name a region, continent or country, and probably they’ve spent some time there, including the Balkans.They had visited my cousin in, interestingly enough, Montana, Bulgaria, in the late 90s during her two-year stint in the Peace Corps. My uncle had visited the northern parts of Yugoslavia in the 1960s, andthey had both beento Slovenia in recentyears, but this wastheir first experiencein Macedonia. SkopjeAfter checking intotheir hotel room at Ho-tel Anja in the old citymall with a view of theVadar River, I steeredmy guests to Old CityHouse Restaurant,a slightly hidden, butbeautiful restaurantspecializing in Mace-donian cuisine notfar from the FreedomBridge and acrossfrom the old nationalballet and opera build-ing.I continued cultural14 – Pauza Magazine

cultural experienceslessons as they took in the traditional looking, but stylish décor of one of Skopje’s oldest restaurants. Weshared a plate of cheeses, cucumbers, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and hard boiled eggs. My aunt en-joyed a sampling of ajvar and pastrmajla, as well as her first foray into Macedonian wines (Tikves’ Alexan-deria claimed the top spot by the trip’s end). I introduced my uncle to Skopsko, the country’s most well-known beer, while we ate various grilled meat dishes.With our bellies full, we walked through the old bazaar district of Skopje, weaving through the narrowstreets, old buildings and past the lively vendors selling anything and everything.“I really like this coffee culture,” Keiko said as we passed by numerous outdoor-seating areas for cafes. Iquickly remarked how ingrained the coffee drinking lifestyle is a part of life in Macedonia.I did my best to explain Macedonia’s ethnic diversity and politics. I talked about how most of Skopje wasdestroyed by earthquake over 51 years ago as my aunt and uncle bought postcards and magnets.After visiting a few antique shops, we stopped in one of the older mosques not far from the fortress. Myaunt and uncle had visited numerous mosques the past few weeks and noted any differences betweenthe ones they saw in Central Asia and ones from the Ottoman Empire.We made our way back to the city center, crossing the Old Stone Bridge. Like Turkmenistan, Skopje hadsimilar “vanity projects” my uncle remarked, as I tried to explain the abundance of statues and garishlydecorated buildings along the Vadar River.Down SouthThe next day we traveled south by bus for three hours to my site in the southeastern part of the country,Bogdanci. Depending on your perspective, it’s the smallest city or the biggest village in Macedonia with apopulation of about 6,000.With less than ideal sleeping options in my apartment, I checked my guests into the local hotel. Therewas no TV, but they were fine with that. We enjoyed a great lunch outdoors on a patio at a restaurant inBogdanci with more traditional dishes and a large Shopska salad. My aunt and uncle were thrilled withthe slight breeze and overcast skies. I, on the other hand, yearned for more sun.Saturday night I took my guests to party at my friend’s house. Although the party was in honor of his son’sgraduation, it was primarily only adults at the party. The guest of honor left early to hang with his friends.About 12 of us sat at two large tables with several plates of salads, large trays of meats, vegetables andcheeses, snacks and deserts, as well as just about everything in bottle to drink. I did my best to translate,but fortunately a few people at the table could speak English. Plates of food and glasses were constantlybeing filled as cigarette smoke, laughter and old Balkan songs filled the air. They both tried Mastika andRakija. I think my uncle liked the traditional Macedonian drinks more than my aunt did, but she didn’t hate it.Eventually my relatives were dancing along with my local friends. After three and half hours of partying,the foreigners called it a night at around 12:30. My aunt and uncle had a lot of fun, and I was pleased theygot to experience a true slice of Macedonian culture and hospitality. Sunday morning is the outdoor mar-ket day in Bogdanci. I mistakenly thought my aunt and uncle might sleep in a bit after a night of partying. Ieventually met up with them not far from apartment amidst the bustling of people grocery shopping. Theyhad purchased some strawberries grown in a nearby village and told me how they had a terrible breakfastof cold chicken soup at a local restaurant. I felt bad for not being there to help them, but I can only imag-ine how awkward it might’ve been for them to try to get a breakfast in a town that doesn’t have a lot ofEnglish speakers and in country that has a different expectation for breakfast. We laughed later when myuncle pointed out the place where they got the bad chicken soup was my favorite drinking establishment.Later we took a bus to Dojran, a nearby tourist spot on a popular lake. We had another great meal of tra-ditional dishes and walked around the lake close the Greek border.Monday morning I took my aunt and uncle to the high school where I help teach English. I introducedthem to a few colleagues. I think I mistakenly said warrior or soldier when I was trying to say aunt a fewtimes. We walked around the school while a few students were taking tests. Lake Ohrid Summer 2014 – 15

cultural experiences The Accidental Globetrotter orIt’s not hard to travel north and south in Macedo-nia from Bogdanci, but it can be complicated when How I Circled the Globeyou’re trying to get anywhere in the Eastern or Without Meaning To!Western part of the country. After seven hours oftraveling by bus, we arrived in Macedonia’s most Nancy Glines - MAK 17beautiful and most popular destination: Ohrid. This adventure began in the middle of oneBlessed with great scenic views of Lake Ohrid cold dark night in late January when I suf-and well preserved history, the medium sized city fered the most horrendous gall bladder at-is thriving with tourists. We saw groups of Chi- tack ever. Offering up my suffering for “thenese, Dutch, and Germans as well a smattering remorse of my sins”, I prayed it would be over soonof Americans. We stayed at an apartment for two – either I would recover or die. There didn’t seem tonights on the hill in the old part of town. After en- be a lot of other options.joying a great meal nearby, my guests and I wereimpressed with the charming old European feel Since I had made a lot of plans for my last year ofof town. The two days were spent touring the well service (and none of them included any more gallpreserved fortress at the top of the hill overlook- bladder attacks), I made arrangements with Medicaling the lake, as well as several monasteries that to have it checked out. When I had the sonogram,date back multiple centuries. My aunt bought pearl the doctor found that I had a very large gall stoneearrings from one of the many shops dedicated to and recommended it be removed. Since at the timeselling them. We also took short trip to Struga and I was asymptomatic, Dr. Mimi said that Washingtonexplored the lake. had to approve the procedure. Imagine my surprise when at the end of March Dr. Mimi called to tell meWe returned to Skopje via Kichevo, Gostivar and that DC had approved it and I could either go homeTetovo. My aunt noted how green the countryside to Oregon or fly to Bangkok to have it done. Thewas in comparison with Central Asia. “Everything hassle of going to Oregon, trying to get into see allis so brown there,” she said. “It’s pretty here with the doctors I needed to and have the procedurelots of trees.” seemed overwhelming, so I opted to go to Bang- kok. What the heck – I’d lived a good deal of my life Next adventure in Oregon and had never been to Bangkok!Back in the capital city, we said our goodbyes andI thanked them for coming to Macedonia. Theywere headed to Georgia and Armenia for the nextthree weeks. I headed to Bogdanci with less thansix months remaining before I complete my adven-ture.16 – Pauza Magazine

cultural experiencesThe arrangements were made and I left Skopje on had seemed in a pretty stable condition, so I wasMarch 28 with assurances that if everything went in a state of shock when told, especially since Iwell I would be back in Veles within 2 weeks. I was had talked to her on the phone not more than 12met at the Bangkok airport by a fellow who was hours before she passed. We’d had a delightfulholding up a sign with my name on it. Never having conversation filled with laughter.had that experience I decided it was another itemto check off my bucket list. The next couple of days With a heavy heart I took off from Bangkok forwere filled with me being poked and prodded by home (Eugene, OR) by way of Tokyo and Santhe very efficient staff of a very large hospital and Francisco. It was kind of eerie flying into the fu-having every test imaginable. On the afternoon of ture. I left Bangkok at 7am on a Thursday andmy surgery the PC advocate asked if I’d be okay landed in Eugene at 2:30 pm that same Thurs-with going into the operation without her as she day, but had spent more than 20 hours gettinghad a number of other patients to take care of. there. I spent the next two weeks with family andHaving my “big girl pants” on I told her “sure! No friends saying goodbye to my mother. I alwaysproblem.” knew my mom was a very special woman, but I was amazed at the amount of people who cameWell, as the afternoon wore on, I started thinking up to me and my siblings at the service and toldabout being in a very large hospital in a very large stories of how she had impacted their lives by acity with absolutely no friends or family to hold my word here or there or just by the example of thehand and began toget nervous. By the way she lived her life.time they wheeled me The Archbishop of thedown the hall to the Diocese sent a letteroperating room I re- praising her and herally knew the meaning efforts for the churchof the phrase “there and for her commu-are no atheists in fox- nity. He listed a num-holes” and I began ber of things she haddredging up all the done that none ofprayers I had ham- the family was reallymered into me as a aware of. That’s howchild and searching she worked – alwaysmy memory for names quietly and withoutof saints who might in- drawing a lot of atten-tercede for me. The tion.anesthetist came inand told me he was in- I had been moaningjecting me with some- about the fact that Ithing that would burn couldn’t find any ba-for a bit and the next con, hamburgers orthing I knew some- steaks since I hadone was waking me been in Macedonia,up to take my vitals. so my son took it uponIt was all over! I had himself to see thatsurvived! Within 12 hours I was up and walking those two weeks werearound and bemoaning the fact that the food they also spent enjoying my favorite food and drink. Iserved in the hospital was possibly the worst I had had my favorite hamburger, microbrews and ateever tasted. my weight in bacon! I also had steak, BBQ ribs, some really good wine and more Microbrews. AtThey released me the next day with instructions to the end of the two weeks I boarded my flight –not lift anything heavy and stay away from carbon- lighter in spirit but probably pounds heavier inated drinks for a while. So within the next week body weight – to return to Macedonia. I flew fromI was able to take a couple of excursions to see Eugene to Portland to Amsterdam to Istanbul andsome temples, the Royal Palace and the huge then to Skopje! I landed in Skopje on April 27thoutdoor market they have every weekend. And the exactly a month after I left having completely cir-food! Oh my…..Thai food like I’ve never tasted, su- cled the globe and marking one more thing offshi, Korean, Chinese and some of the best Mexi- my “bucket list”.can food since leaving the States!I was due to see the doctor for my final check upwhen word came that my mother had passed. Shewas 92 years old and had some health issues but Summer 2014 – 17

cultural experiences13 miles at a time Nick Motwani - MAK 17Ihad never run a half marathon, and running one never crossed my mind before coming to the Peace Corps. It seemed like a lot of work for a medal that hundreds of other people were getting. In 2013, peo- ple started to talk about the annual Wizzair Skopje Marathon and I was encouraged to participate bymy fellow volunteers. I was lazy to start training and I ended up signing up for the 5K. I completed the runwithout a problem, however once I crossed the finish line, I felt like I could run more. I immediately regrettednot attempting the half marathon and set a personal goal to complete the half marathon in 2014.The plan was to start training early in the year for the marathon which was scheduled for early May. ButI made excuse after excuse, the weather was too bad or the local track was too crowded or I didn’t wantto violate my personal no running on Thursday policy. I just kept putting it off until I realized I was about 6weeks away from running and I was still a couch potato. I got up, put on my running shoes, headed acrossthe street and did a few laps around the track.I kept up the same regimen every day, a quick run beforework and a long run during the weekends. I started to ex-periment with those green things vendors were selling atthe pazar called vegetables. I drank less alcohol (even af-ter telling myself rakija would help) and more water. Themore I ran the better I felt, however I could not get to thefull 13 miles during my training. I tried running in the even-ing when it was cooler, I tried filling my iPod with awesomerunning music, I tried attaching a bag of Cheetos on a stickto my forehead, but nothing worked. My legs would be ach-ing after hitting 9 miles and I couldn’t complete the full run.I came to realize that the first time I would be able to com-plete a half marathon would be at the half marathon.May 11th finally came and it was a beautiful day. The sunwas out and downtown Skopje was crowded! The PCVsmet at the Macedonian Gate, took some pre-run picturesand made our way to the start line. Now came one of themost important decisions: what would I listen to while do-ing the run? My options were upbeat running songs with in-tense bass that I could pace with, or doing a playlist of myfavorite music including Oasis, Queen and more, or justlistening to some podcasts and enjoying the political satireof Bill Maher and Jon Stewart. After thinking about it for awhile I finally decided to run my first half marathon to theaudiobook of George W. Bush’s memoirs, Decision Points.The volunteers who ran the half marathon started in a bit of a cluster, but eventually spread out over time and distance. I was really excited to run the half marathon so I could see new parts of Skopje. The route took us through the center, along the park and zoo, a left past the Skopje City Mall and Peace Corps office and to- wards Gorche Petrov park and backtrack towards the center, past Hotel Porta (where we have our conferences) and towards the new Capital Mall. So basically I was seeing the parts of Skopje I have been seeing over the past 20 months, just out of breath and in pain. After a grueling, exhausting, painful two and a half hours of listening to George W. Bush, I finally made the finish line with the cheers of my fellow volunteers. It wasn’t the time I wanted but the fact that I finished was re- warding enough. And now I am one of those cool kids who has a medal and a bib from a race. Reflecting back on the preparations for the run and the run itself I can definitely say that I’d run another one. I don’t know when and I don’t know where, but I know I’ll have to listen to something completely different... maybe Hillary Clinton’s new book!18 – Pauza Magazine

cultural experiences“I’ve never been harassed as many timesby so many different cultures whiletraining for a race, but darned if Ididn’t cross the finish line anyway.“Emily Nagle MAK 18 So hot. So thirsty. Yay! So tired. Ice cream! Kelly Friedman MAK 17“Another half marathon down, bring on Istanbul in November!” Kevin Work MAK17 “It was wonderful experience, I loved it.Support of others PeaceCorps volunteers made it even greater experience. I would do it again.”Vatche Isanians MAK18 Summer 2014 – 19

arts & entertainment From the brain of...Pussies willow in the wind so frillyflowers pedal up hills willy nillyNettles nestle daffo-dilliesStep into the middle, interminglesharpen your fiddle with a twiddle of the diddletrumpet crumpetscrash cadaverous cymbalswatch them twirl and wigglefroth, flit, and gigglethey’ll be-bop without youBOON, play your metal

arts & entertainmentEmily Nagle... MAK18 Kako Ce Vika... збор. Word. What is that word that defines the alluringly absurd used to deter, no differ from what they called a blur of reality. секој ден She rises and sings to ROO Ka KOOK KA ROO! (some days the only one who listens) dancing, neh! Rollicking, on each piqued torrent of [ms]fortune. Prone to public displays of creation she stirs up trouble without inciting violence sweeping though a room with gravitational defiance solar flair of colors no false gods or even science dully donned doesn’t match her insides. She’s a goddess, a walking coincidence

pcv projectsMacedonian Model UnitLaeudra BNaarbte i- oMAnKs17The Macedonia Model United Nations 2014 Leaders. The Team Leaders were very creative conference was held in Kavadarci on June and came up with a multi-tier terrorist plot, and the 7th. We had a rocky planning process, but Security Council’s job was to debate on how to ap-a couple weeks before the conference we had proach and solve the issue.successful conference simulations where thestudents practiced how the conference would go Overall, we had a great conference. The delegatesand they did a fantastic job, which gave us hope! were excited and ready to debate! It was reallyOn the day of the conference, together with our impressive to see how students take these unfamil-delegates, chairpersons and Secretary General, iar issues, research them, and then debate usingwe opened the event at the House of Culture, and a perspective that is most likely different than theirthen we moved to the primary school where the own, all in their second or third language.actual conference took place.We had 14 teams made up of approximately 140students from all around Macedonia represent-ing countries such as Syria, South Africa, Brazil,Bulgaria, South Korea, and many others. Eachstudent represented one of the 7 committees wehad, including the Industrial Development Orga-nization, World Health Organization, and Environ-mental Program. We had a wide range of issuesthis year ranging from Combating Illicit Trade inSmall Arms and Light Weapons, to The Right toAdequate Housing and Protection from ForcibleEvictions, to Increasing Corporate Social Respon-sibility in Developing Countries and Economies inTransition.One new addition this year was that the SecurityCouncil was given a“surprise issue”created byour Secretariat, which was comprised of the Team22 – Pauza Magazine

pcv projects AriNanatnieonWalillSiapmelslin- gMBAeKe 17Spelling Bee: the phrase is instantly evocative. Polysyllabic words! Tense pauses! Grim judges! Excited children! Or more accurately terrified children, but that’s OK, because spelling bees are like roller coast- ers, and terror is part of the fun. You never know if you’re going to soar to new heights, or careen scream-ing off the track and perish in a fiery—never mind. Spelling bees are not like roller coasters.National Spelling Bee (NSB) Macedonia sawits fourth year this spring, and it was not atall like a malfunctioning roller coaster. It wasmore like a successful and well-run nationalevent involving hundreds of kids, teachersand volunteers from all over Macedonia.It started with Local Qualifying Bees inMarch. Teachers and volunteers organizedand advertised for NSB, practiced withstudents, and held over a hundred qualifyingbees. Four thousand students participated,from 5-8th grade and I-IV year of high school.That’s 2/1000s of the entire populationof Macedonia. The only thing 2/1000s ofAmericans can agree to do is watch Gameof Thrones. You rock, Macedonia.Then, on to Regionals! This was the first year NSB included regional competitions, and it went remarkably well,with hardly any casualties. (I stubbed my toe.) Eight cities hosted Regional Bees, with the help of local schoolsand American Corners. Over 1000 students participated. Regional Spelling Bees required the students andteachers to practice for weeks and spend a Saturday traveling and competing, but once again they rose to thechallenge.The National Spelling Bee on May 17th saw 320 of the best spellers in Macedonia gather in Skopje. They hadmemorized hundreds of English words that many native speakers couldn’t spell without a couple of tries. (“Mis-chievous.” “Pneumonia.” “Susceptible.” It’s even more impressive when you consider that in Macedonian, spell-ing a word just means saying it slowly.) Competition was fierce—the 8th grade went through their own word listand the high school words before succumbing to the Secret Word List, compiled by some of the most deviousminds in Peace Corps Macedonia to stymie even the most able speller. Finally, two students from each grade were awarded with certificates and medals in a ceremony with Director Corey and Ambassador Wohlers (we later decided to honor the third-place spellers as well). National Spelling Bee Macedonia is proud to have worked with such amaz- ing students, dedicated teachers, and all-around-wonderful volunteers, some of who stepped up to run Regional Bees without even being part of the committee (lookin’ at you, Casey and Jamie). Thank you for making this event so very unlike a crashing roller coaster Summer 2014 – 23

pcv projectsYMLP CampScott Johnson MAK 17If smiles, laughter and lasting memories were used to measure success, this year’s Young Men’s Lead- ership Project summer camp would easily be off the charts.Forty -four campers and 8 junior counselors attended the outdoor-based, inter-ethnic English leadershipcamp June 18-24 in Krushevo’s Shula Mina children’s resort, just up the road from the Tose Proeski Mu-seum. Roughly 24 Peace Corps volunteers worked with YMCA Bitola, the partner organization for YMLP,as well as citizens of Macedonia to help organize this year’s YMLP camp..The campers, who will all be in high school in September, attended classes built around the themes ofLeadership, Democracy, Civic Responsibility and Personal Development. These four main core classeswere facilitated and developed in partnerships between Peace Corps volunteers and citizens of Macedo-nia. Classes and workshops were also developed around art, athletics, teamwork, communication, sexeducation, project design, first-aid, and co-existing with the natural environment.YMLP organizers managed to problem solve two significant logistical challenges before camp-identifying a suitable replacement site within less than 10 days be- fore camp and unseasonal rainy days. With no electric- ity available at the original site in Tajmiste, where the YMLP camp was held the previous two years, organ- izers were pressed to figure out a location for sleeping accommodations both in- side and outside of cabins, and locate flat open spaces for tents, sports, and trails for rough camping. Rain compli- cated matters leading up to the start of camp and the first few days of camp, but the staff and campers weathered the conditions. Campers were divided by re- gions amongst eight teams on the first day. The teams worked to create uniquechants and flags, which represented their team’s unity. One counselor was assigned to each team. Forthe first time ever, the camp featured a former camper leading a team as a counselor, as well as two ‘staffin training’ members. YMLP organizers hope to increase the number of former campers working as staffmembers which will increase sustainability of the camp.The next four days were filled with engaging classes in the morning and afternoon. Campers were signedup for evening electives ranging from baseball, creative writing, kickball, and Korean. Campers also expe-rienced sleeping in tents, cooking a meal over a fire and preparing S’mores. The United States Ambas-sador to Macedonia, Paul Wohlers, visited the camp on the second day, coming away impressed with thestimulating ideas and activities for the campers and future leaders of Macedonia.24 – Pauza Magazine

pcv projectsYMLP HaikusJake PurpleThat man is awesome Justin Bieber sucksA man of great proportion We don’t like his bad singingWe love Jake a lot That’s why we hate himZach YellowZach the blue bad boyis the best counselor here Justin Bieber sucksand he looks like bear his songs are really awfulDave I think he should die.Short and silent GreenWe are on rough camp to-night, Justin is the namehope he can cook He is considered a chick(love ya Dave) But I like him, yea.Brian BlackCool joking man Justin Bieber singsfights good for the team Baby Baby Baby, ohBrian the dude We’re not fond of him.Chris RedShort and slim he is He sings like babyLeadership he does show us Teenage girls are crazy yeahGood at it he is He’s CanadianTed OrangeTed is a great guyHis hat is very catchy, A singer hatedNever takes it off Justin Bieber is his nameShea Girls greatly rate himAmazing accent WhiteMet him on a sunny dayAll-time memory Justin has nice voice he is the best in pop songs but he still sucks ass Blue Oh my baby yeah My hair is so awesome bro I got arrested Summer 2014 – 25

worth 1,000 words